Project Plans

Table of Contents

10

5 Adirondack Chair

Adirondack Footstool

20 Arbor

Corn Hole

90 MORE PLANS AT www.yellawood.co m

Bird Feeder

72

65

Daytripper Daytrip per Table

58

25 Big Green Egg Table Table

Cocktail Table

15 Adirondack Table

84 Daytripper Chair

96 Dog House

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104 Double Adirondack Chair

©Great Southern Wood Preserving, Inc.

2

Table of Contents

126

117

Dream Dog House

Double Rocker

179 Garden Bench

193

186 Hose Holder

Hummingbird Feeder

199 Multi-Purpose Stand

157 Freestanding Hammock

211

205 rB Bo ox ter Plan te

Picnic Table

o o o

o o

o

o o

o o

o o

o o

o o

o

o

o o o

o o

o o

o

o o

o

o o o

216 Play Set

MORE PLANS AT www.yellawood.co m

262 Potting Bench


269 Raised Veggie Bed


3

273 Sandbox

279 Window Box

285 Fastener & Hardware Information

286 Important Information

*All photos by Eliza Stoll MORE PLANS AT www.yellawood.co m



4

Adirondack Chair

There are many variations of the classic adirondack adirondack chair. This particular version features straightforward construction and common materials. This chair makes for a satisfying project that can be built and finished in one weekend. And when properly finished, it will provide years of comfortable seating.

BUILD TIME Cutting parts: 1 – 2 hours Assembly: 1 – 2 hours Finishing: 2 hours Total: 4 – 6 hours




5

Adirondack Chair

TOOLS

A

Miter saw (or hand or circular saw) Table saw Jig saw (or hand or circular saw) Drill/driver 18 " drill bit Clamps Damp rag to wipe up excess glue

X2

B X2 C X6

SUPPLIES (4) 1 x 4 x 8' (2) 1 x 8 x 8' (1) 2 x 4 x 10' 1 ¼" deck screws 2" deck screws 3" deck screws Waterproof wood glue

D X1 E X2

CUT LIST A B C D E F G H I J K

(2) (2) (6) (1) (2) (2) (2) (2) (2) (1) (2)

F ¾ x 7 ¼ x 36" 1 ½ x 3 ½ x 21 ½" ¾ x 3 x 23" ¾ x 6 x 36" ¾ x 3 x 34" ¾ x 3 x 32" ¾ x 3 x 17" 1 ½ x 3 ½ x 21" ¾ x 7 ¼ x 30" 1 ½ x 3 ½ x 26" ¾ x 2 x 5"

X2

G X2

H X2 I

J

K X2


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6

Adirondack Chair F E

D

I G

J

I B

A H

C

B

K A

2” H 5”

Braces

Arm detail

1 1/2”

2 1/2”

1 1/2” 4” 3”

(H)

(J)

I

45

0

(K)

1 1/2” 19” 15” (Save this cutout to make piece K)

A

90

8”


(B)

(B)

3”

Back leg detail



7

Adirondack Chair

BUILDING STEPS 01 Cut the back legs (A) to length and lay out and cut the angles according to the detail drawing. Use a jig saw or circular saw and guide to make smooth, straight cuts. Note which cutout pieces you will be saving to make braces later on. Lay out where seat stretchers (B) will be attached according to detail drawing. Drill pilot holes.

02 Cut seat stretchers (B) to length and attach to back legs according to layout marks with 2" screws.

03 Cut arms (I) to length and mark where back support (J), front legs (H) and braces (K) will be attached according to detail drawing. Drill 8 " pilot holes.

04 Clamp back support (J) in place and attach with 2" deck screws. Trim two of the cutout pieces from back legs to make braces (K) according to detail drawing, and attach them and front legs (H) to the underside of the arms where noted with 3" deck screws.

05 Measure up from the bottom of both front legs and mark 16". Clamp back leg/stretcher assembly to the front leg arm assembly, keeping the top of the back legs at the 16" mark and the front edge of the back legs flush with the front edge of the front legs. Attach with 2" deck screws.




8

Adirondack Chair

BUILDING STEPS 06 Cut all other pieces to lengths according to cut list. Lay out your back slats (D, E, & F) with the best sides facing down and ¼" spacers between each slat. Use a straightedge along the bottoms to help with alignment. Drill pilot holes in back stretchers (G) and attach to the back of the slats. Attach bottom edge of the bottom stretcher 4" up from bottom of slats, and the second stretcher 16" up from that.

07 Set back slat assembly into place, with the bottom stretcher (G) resting on the back seat stretcher (B). With 2" screws attach through the slats (D, E, & F) into the seat stretcher (B) and back support (J).

08 Drill pilot holes in seat slats (C) and lay them out on the seat with ¼" spacers between each slat. Remove one arm assembly for drill clearance and drill pilot holes into the back legs through your slat pilot holes, then attach with 2" screws. Reattach arm assembly and repeat for other side.

09 Break all edges and sand all surfaces smooth before applying waterproof finish according to manufacturer instructions.




9


Another piece of our Adirondack furniture suite is this stylish and easy to build footstool. With angles and lines that mimic the other two pieces, and a gentle angle on which to rest your feet, you can relax in comfort and satisfaction after building these pieces. With the same simple joinery techniques, coated screws and waterproof glue, this piece will also last for years of enjoyment.

BUILD TIME Cutting parts: 1 – 2 hours Assembly: 1 hour Finishing: 2 hours Total: 4 – 5 hours




10


A

TOOLS Miter saw Table saw Drill/driver Jig saw 1 8 " drill bit Damp rag to wipe up excess glue

X2

B

SUPPLIES X2 (1) 1 x 5 x 8' (1) 1 x 4 x 8' 1 ¼" deck screws 2" deck screws Waterproof wood glue

C X2

CUT LIST A B C D E

(2) (2) (2) (2) (7)

¾ x 3 ½ x 15" ¾ x 4 ½ x 10" ¾ x 2 x 15" ¾ x 3 x 14" ¾ x 2 x 16 ½"

D X2

E X7




11


1/4” Space between slat E

E

Leg detail

B

E

E

11 /2" 1

E

12"

D

2 /2" 1

22 1/2° bevels

(A)

B

Rail detail 45 B

o

D 1 o

22 /2

12 /4" 1

A C C Feet Detail A

45° A 22½°

1½"

3"




12


BUILDING STEPS 01 Cut all pieces to length and rip all slats to width according to dimensions on cut list. Layout the feet profiles (A) according to illustration detail. You can cut the 45° angles on your miter saw using the 1 ½" mark as the beginning point for your cut. Lay out the 22 ½° angles using a speed square and cut those with a jig saw.

02 Square a line 2 ½" up from the bottom of both legs (B). Mark the center point of the bottom edge of the legs and another down the back face of the feet. Line up the 2 ½" line flush and square with the top edge of the feet and lined up with the center points. Attach with glue and 1 ¼" screws.

03 Attach stretchers (C) to the edges of the legs with glue and 1 ¼" screws. Keep the bottom edges flush.

04 When both stretchers are attached to one side, attach the other foot/leg assembly in the same manner.

05 Mark the center points along the top edges of the legs and rails (D), line up those marks and attach the rails to the legs keeping top edges flush.




13


BUILDING STEPS 06 Set your table saw fence to a width of 1 ½" and tilt the blade to 22 ½°. Take four slats and one by one place the bottom face against the table and rip one edge. This will leave you with a face that is still 2" wide to match the other slats, but the bottoms will follow the angles of the rails.

07 Attach beveled slats to both ends of the footstool with glue and 2" screws, keeping the unbeveled edge even with the end points of the rails. Be sure to drill through your slat pilot holes and into the rail edge to prevent splitting.

08 Lay out the rest of your slats, mating the beveled slat edges with each other and filling the middle with unbeveled slats. Put ¼" spacers between each slat. Attach with glue and 2" screws.

09 Sand all edges and surfaces smooth (the beveled edges of the two end slats will have to be sanded down to “level out” with the faces of their mating slats). Apply waterproofing finish according to manufacturer instructions.




14

Adirondack Table

This simple little table is easy and fun to build. With butt joints and waterproof glue, you’ll spend very little time building this project compared with how long you’ll be able to enjoy it. The end pieces mimic the seat back profile of the Adirondack chair featured in another plan in this book. And when combined with the Adirondack footstool also in this book, you’ll have a complete Adirondack furniture suite. Your only problem may be how many of them you’ll have to build to keep your family and friends as comfortable as you will be.

BUILD TIME Cutting parts: 1 – 2 hours Assembly: 2 hours Finishing: 2 hours Total: 5 – 6 hours




15

Adirondack Table

A

TOOLS Miter saw Table saw Drill/driver ¼" drill bit Damp rag to wipe up excess glue

X4 B X2

SUPPLIES C

(1) 1 x 8 x 8' (1) 1 x 6 x 8' (1) 1 x 4 x 8' 1 ¼" deck screws Waterproof wood glue

X2

D

CUT LIST A B C D E F G H

(4) (2) (2) (1) (4) (2) (4) (4)

¾ x 5 ½ x 17" ¾ x 2 ½ x 19 ¾" ¾ x 2 ½ x 21" ¾ x 6 x 24" ¾ x 3 x 24" ¾ x 6 x 7" ¾ x 3 x 5 ½" ¾ x 3 x 4"

X1

E X4

F

X2

G X4

H X4




16

Adirondack Table Leg detail 1 ½" Cut here to make a pair of legs from one 1 x 6; repeat for a set of four legs

E E D E

A

E H G A

C

A

B

G H

F

H 1 ½"

C B

G

4”

A

F G

A H

¼" 3"

3"

6"

3"

3"

H

G

F

G

H

45°

4" 5 ½" 7"

End pieces detail 3"




17

Adirondack Table

BUILDING STEPS 01 Cut two pieces of 1 x 6 to 17" and measure and mark to cut a pair of legs (A) from each piece, ending up with four legs total (see detail drawing for measurements).

02 Cut the end (B) and side (C) rails to the dimensions on the cut list.

03 Attach the legs (A) to the side rails (C) with 1 ¼" deck screws, keeping the top and outside edges flush.

04 Attach end rails (B) to leg/rail assembly with 1 ¼" screws, again keeping tops and outside edges flush.

05 Cut the tabletop pieces (D and E) to dimensions on the cut list. They should measure 1 ½" longer than the length from one end rail to the other (leaving ¾" overhang on both ends to meet flush with end pieces). Lay them out on your table top with ¼" spacers between each slat.




18

Adirondack Table

BUILDING STEPS 06 Use a scrap piece to make sure your overhang is exactly ¾" on both ends, drill pilot holes in the top slats and attach to the end rails with glue and screws.

07 Cut the end pieces (F, G and H) according to dimensions on the cut list. Refer to illustration for layout of 45° cuts. Place them on the end rails, lining them up with the top slats and keeping the tops tight underneath the slats. Attach with glue and screws.

08 Wipe away all excess glue and drips, sand everything smooth and apply waterproofing finish.

TIP: Always drill ¼" pilot holes before driving any screws to avoid splitting the material.




19

Arbor

Perfect for framing a garden path or creating an outdoor entryway to your front walk, arbors are not only classic and elegant, but also simple and fun to build. This arbor features a lattice design perfect for climbing flowers. However, you can create your own to either close it in more for added privacy or open it up for a lighter feel. This structure is pretty heavy and cumbersome to move around, so enlist a helper to aid you in moving it around as you build it and especially as you install it.

BUILD TIME Cutting parts: 2 – 3 hours Assembly: 2 hours Finishing: 2 – 4 hours Total: 6 – 9 hours *Note: Drill pilot holes for all screws.




20

Arbor

TOOLS

A

Miter saw or circular saw Table saw Drill/driver 3 8 " drill bit at least 5" long 1 ¼" forstner or spade bit 8 " drill bit Square Socket wrench Chisel Damp rag to wipe up excess glue

X4

B X4

C

SUPPLIES

X4

(4) 4 x 4 x 10' (4) 2 x 4 x 8' (14) 2 x 2 x 42" deck balusters with bevels cut at both ends (3) 1 x 6 x 8' 3" deck screws 2" deck screws 1 ¼" deck screws (4) 3 8 " x 4 ½" galvanized bolts, flat washers and nuts Waterproof wood glue

D

X 14

E

X 10

CUT LIST F A B C D E F G H

(4) (4) (4) (14) (10) (4) (22) (12)

3 ½ x 3 ½ x 96" 1 ½ x 3 ½ x 96" 3 ½ x 3 ½ x 24" 1 ½ x 1 ½ x 42" ¾ x 1 x 31" ¾ x 1 x 69" ¾ x 1 x 15 ½" ¾ x 1 x 12"

G

H


X4

X 22

X 12



21

Arbor Exploded view

D

B

End slats 9¾" from the end of B C B

C

H A

A

1 3 8"

A Post detail

E

G

A

F

A

Brace detail

96"

1 3 8"

93" 45° 3"

C side view

3"

24"

C

end view

45° MORE PLANS AT www.yellawood.co m



22

Arbor

BUILDING STEPS 01 Cut your posts (A) to 8' and then mark 3" down from the top end and cut a tenon 1 3 8 " deep on either side. To do this, set your saw’s depth to 1 8 " and make several passes in your layout marks, then clean out the waste and flatten the surfaces with a sharp chisel. Cut your braces (C) from the waste ends of your 10' posts, using the same principles to cut a tenon on one end of each brace (see illustration detail).

02 Cut your 2 x 4 top rails (B) to exactly 96" long and clamp them together in pairs, with the best sides (faces) facing outward. Mark a 60° angle on each, then find where that angle intersects the midpoint (1 ¾") of the 2 x 4 and use that as a center point to drill a 1 ¼" diameter hole. Use your miter saw or circular saw to then cut the angle.

03 Rip 1" wide pieces from your 1 x 6 and then cut them to length for lattice pieces (E, F, G, and H), cutting a 45° angle on both ends.

04 Lay the posts (A) on a flat surface with their ends flush and measure 18" up from the bottom and then make a mark every 3" until you reach 15" from the bottom of your tenon cut. Square the marks across all four posts, making sure you are marking the outside end faces of each post.

05 Group your lattice pieces together (group E, F, G, H), keeping ends flush and mark them in the following manner: 12" in from both ends on the outside face of part E; every 3" along the inside face of part F; 3" in from one end on the outside face of part G; and 3" in from both ends on part H. Mark a square line across all pieces of each group according to those marks.




23

Arbor

BUILDING STEPS 06 Attach the lattice pieces to the outside faces of each pair of posts, starting with E first, then F and then filling in with G and H. You will not be using every layout mark on these pieces (meaning that you will have some visible marks once you’ve attached all lattice pieces). Use the illustration detail as a guide. Use 2" screws when attaching lattice pieces to your posts (A), and use 1 ¼" screws when attaching lattice pieces to each other.

07 With each lattice/post assembly on edge on a pair of sawhorses, sandwich the top rails (B) on each tenon, keeping the outside face of each post 19" in from the long point of the top rail. Drill a 3 8 " pilot hole through the rails and post tenons and insert your carriage bolts from the outside and secure the washer and nut from the inside.

08 With the assembly laying flat, attach the braces (C) at each corner, making sure the top and bottom angles meet flat against the posts and top rails. Drive 3" deck screws through each brace and into the post, as well as one 3" screw from the front and back of the rails and into the brace tenon.

09 Attach the top slats to the rails, starting 9 ¾" in from each end and keeping 6" spacing between slats. Carefully drill pilot holes and attach with 3" screws. You may need to tack some temporary bracing around the bottom of the posts to keep everything square during this step.

10 Break all edges with sandpaper and smooth any rough spots. Apply a waterproofing finish of your choice according to manufacturer specifications. This arbor can be installed simply by placing the bottoms of the posts on four flat stones or pavers (leveled with each other), or more permanently by setting them in concrete —research various methods and choose the one that fits your situation.




24

Big Green Egg Table PROJECT PLAN

Create a modern, clean and strong home for your grilling champion. This custom table is designed to accommodate a medium-sized Big Green Egg,® to highlight your grilling work-horse and give you extra space for cooking at ease. It features a shallow, built-in shelf to store grilling utensils, plates and other periphery. The legs are thin planks laid up to maximize their strength while remaining sleek.

Next, you will lay out surface planks and cut out the circle to fit the Big Green Egg ®. After some light finishing, you’ll be ready to grill in style all summer long. Make sure to take proper safety precautions, including always wearing gloves, goggles and a dust mask when you’re cutting or sanding.

BUILD TIME

9

HRS

DIFFICULTY

Note: Big Green Egg® is a registered trademark of Big Green Egg, Inc.

You’ll start with the construction of the frame, then move on to assembling the shelf and brace supports.

COST

$ $ $ $ $ BuildYella.com




25

Big Green Egg Table WHAT YOU’LL NEED

CUTLIST

/ 4 x6x16'

5

L

L

O

O

O

O

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

Q

Q

M

M

M

K

N

G

(5)

Part (L) *ripped to 3 3 / 4 "

H

H

2x4x6'

(1)

1x4x12'

(2)

F F A

A

A

A

A

A

A

A

F F

D

J

D

C

C

C

E

C

B



E

B

1x4x12' (1) *ripped to 1 1 / 2"

J

E

E

1x4x10'

I

1x4x6' (1) *ripped to 1 1 / 2"


(1)

26

Big Green Egg Table WHAT YOU’LL NEED

SUPPLIES

TOOLS

WOOD STOCK 5x

5 / 4 x6x16'

1x

2x4x6'

3x 1x 1x

1x4x12' 1x4x10' 1x4x6'

Note: For this project we chose to use YellaWood SuperSelect® brand KDAT products for a clear appearance. To learn more about this product, visit yellawood.com/superselect

Miter saw (or hand or circular saw)

Table saw

Drill/driver

Nail gun

Miter square

Jigsaw

Clamps

Wood glue

18 / " Countersink drill bit

HARDWARE 1 LB BOX 1 1 / 4" Star-drive flat-head decking screws 2" Star-drive flat-head decking screws

~ 30 EACH 18-gauge 1 1 / 2" nails 18-gauge 1" nails

OTHER 1x 10x 1x

Metal tie plate (16-gauge 3 x 7") #8 1 1 / 4" Wafer wood screws (for tie Plate) 15 x 15" Concrete paver for Big Green Egg® (or 2x 7 1 / 2" x 15 1 / 2") Measuring tape

BUILD TIME CUTTING

2 HRS

ASSEMBLY

+

6 HRS


FINISHING

+

1

TOTAL

=

HRS


9 HRS


27

Big Green Egg Table RENDERS




28

Big Green Egg Table DIMENSIONS & DIAGRAMS

Notes: All measurements ar e approximate. Cut stock in the correct sequence of steps because many dimensions are directly measured and will vary based on actual stock and construction. Board dimensions can vary, so be sure to measure your stock.

TOP

FRONT

LEFT SIDE

~32"

~55"


~27 ½"



29

Big Green Egg Table OVERVIEW OF STEPS

1: LEFT & RIGHT LEG STRUCTURES

4: SHELF

2: LEG SUPPORTS

5: LOWER PLANKS

3: BRACE SUPPORTS

6: UPPER PLANKS

FINAL STEPS: FINISHING & INSTALLING BIG GREEN EGG




30


STEP 1: LEFT & RIGHT LEG STRUCTURES

CUTLIST

1x4 STOCK

32" 3 ½"

A

(4x)

21 ¾" (4x)

B

1 ½"

Cuts: For each step, you can pre-cross-cut all of the pieces listed in the Cutlist for each section.

LEFT & RIGHT LEG STRUCTURE




31


ASSEMBLY VIEW LEFT & RIGHT LEG STRUCTURES

LEFT

2"

2" 7

7

/ 8"

B

/ 8"

B

1 1 / 8"

"

3 4 /

A

A

A

A

14 1 / 8"

14 1 / 8" B

B

*Note: Use a miter square and make precise marks on (A) to ensure subsequent steps align.

LEFT

FRONT

RIGHT

After you have the corner points, draw a rectangle with an “X” in the middle so that you have an intersection location for the countersink + screw.

BACK

RIGHT B

"

3 8 /

B

3

/ 8" 7 8 /

7 8 /

"

" 3 4 /

"

1 1 / 2"

A

A

A

A

14 1 / 8" B

LEFT

14 1 / 8" B

FRONT

RIGHT

BACK





32

Big Green Egg Table BUILDING

STEP 1: LEFT & RIGHT LEG STRUCTURES A: Left Leg Assembly

A1

A3

A2

Cross-cut four 1x4s to a length of 32". These will create parts (A). Then, crosscut two 1x4s to a length of 21 ¾" for parts (B).

A4

Take the two (B)s and rip them to a width of 1 ¼". You will be able to create t wo 1 ¼" wide pieces from a s ingle 1x4. This will create four part (B)s.

A5

1 8" from the top and 2" Make a mark 14 / from the right edge. This is where the top right corner of another part (B) will be positioned. Draw a rectangle here as well.

A7

A6

Flip (A) over and inscribe the same 2 rectangles on the opposite side in a mirrored fashion. Having these marks on the other side of the board will indicate where to pin and screw (B) to (A).

A8

Glue edge of (B) and pin in place using a nail gun and two 18-gauge nails.

To mark on part (A) where to attach part 7 (B), measure / 8" from the top and 2" from the right edge. This is where the top right corner of part (B) will be placed. Use the corner marks to draw a rectangle.

Place a piece of 5 / 4 board on your work surface to support part (B), and prop (A) vertically. Use clamps to secure (A) to the top of the scrap piece and to the table.

A9

Next, drill a pilot hole in the center of the rectangle you drew. Use one 2" screw each to secure the two part (B)s to part (A).

Repeat the rectangle guides on the other part (A). Note: the dimensions are the same, just mirrored from left to right.

Tip: Need help, or have questions about how to cut these parts? Watch the video! LEFT & RIGHT LEG STRUCTURE




33


STEP 1: LEFT & RIGHT LEG STRUCTURES A: Left Leg Assembly

A10

A11

Glue, pin with nail gun, drill a pilot hole, and secure (B) with one 2" screw in the center of the rectangle.

Flip assembly over to allow the other (A) to be propped vertically. Attach the 2 (B) parts to this leg in the same way they were attached to first (A). This completes the Left Leg Assembly.





34


STEP 1: LEFT & RIGHT LEG STRUCTURES B: Right Leg Assembly

B1

B2

Mark on a fresh part (A) where to attach the other pieces using the Dimensions 7 and Diagrams information (Page 32). / 8" 3 from the top and / 8" from the left edge will be where the top left corner of part (B) will be placed.

Make a mark 14 1 / 8" from the top and 2" from the left edge. This is where the top left corner of another part (B) will be positioned.

B3

B4

B5

Once you have mirrored the 2 rectangles so they are on both sides of (A), transfer these to another (A) so you have eight total rectangle guides for placing and attaching (B).

Apply glue to edges of (B), and attach one at a time to the edges of (A) in the manner previously described (pin with 2 nails, drill pilot hole, and attach with one screw).

It may be easier to place the assembly on the floor to insert the top (B).

Note: Refer to the Dimensions and Diagrams information (Page 32) to ensure correct placement of the rectangle guides on (A).

B6

You now have both left and right leg assemblies.





35


STEP 2: LEG SUPPORTS

CUTLIST 1x4 STOCK

32" 3 ½"

A

(4x)

16 3 / 8" (4x)

3 ½"

C

52 ½" (4x)

1 ½"

D *Ripped to 1 ½"

11 ¾" 3 ½"

E

(4x)

⅞"

(4x)

F

3 ½"

LEG SUPPORTS




36


ASSEMBLY VIEW LEG SUPPORTS

A

LEFT

F D

E

D

C

FRONT

D

A

A

D

LEG SUPPORTS




37


STEP 2: LEG SUPPORTS A: Front and Rear Leg Assemblies

A1

A2

For the front and back leg pieces, you’ll make four more part (A)s. Cross-cut 1x4s to 32" in length.

A4

A3

3 8". Cross-cut four 1x4s to a length of 16 / This will create part (C). For (D)s, crosscut two 1x4s to a length of 52 ½", and rip them to 1 ½" for four total boards.

A5

To dry-fit all pieces, place part (A) flat on a work surface. Lay part (C) on top of part (A), keeping the bottom edges flush.

A7

3 4" to Cross-cut a 1x4 to a length of 11 / create part (E). You’ll need four of these. Then cross-cut a 1x4 to a length of 7 / 8" to create part (F). You’ll need four of these.

A6

Next, lay part (D) on top of part (A), followed by part (E), another part (D), and part (F) at the top. Before fastening (C), ensure it is flush with (A). If not, adjust (C) so it fits.

Use wood glue and 1" nails in a nail gun to pin in place, beginning with part (F). Glue and nails are enough to fasten this section.

A8

Repeat steps A4 - A6 for the other leg assembly.

This completes the Front and Rear Leg Assemblies.

LEG SUPPORTS




38


STEP 2: LEG SUPPORTS B: Combine the Leg Components

B1

B2

B3

Take the front leg components and lay them flat on the work surface. Make sure part (A) is facing down. Take the Left Leg Assembly and place it on top of the Front Leg Assembly.

Apply glue to the assemblies, pin in place with the nail gun using 1 ½" nails, then drill pilot holes and attach with 2" screws.

Repeat this process on the right side using the Right Leg Assembly.

B4

Next, flip the assembly and do the same steps on the other side and place it on top of the other leg assembly.

LEG SUPPORTS




39


STEP 3: BRACE SUPPORTS

CUTLIST

2x4 STOCK 49 ½"

(1x)

3 ½"

G

7 9 / 8"

(2x)

3 ½"

H

1x4 STOCK 23 ¼" 1 ½"

(1x)

*Ripped to 1 ½"

12"

(2x)

1 ½"

J

15"

*Ripped to 1 ½"

45˚

45˚

BRACE SUPPORTS




40


ASSEMBLY VIEW BRACE SUPPORTS TOP

H

J

G I J

H

J

H

BOTTOM

G I J

H

BRACE SUPPORTS




41


STEP 3: BRACE SUPPORTS A: Lower Bracing

A1

A2

Flip assembly 90° and place it on a level surface.

A4

A3

Cross-cut a 2x4 to a length of 49 ½". This will create part (G). Cross-cut two 2x4s to 7 a length of 9 / 8" to create 2 part (H)s.

A5

Now, center parts (H) to bisect (G) as shown.

Use 1x4 stock to cut part (I) and 2 (J)s. (J) s edges are mitered at 45°.

A6

Use a metal plate tie to connect the three pieces. Place it so most of the holes fall on solid wood and not at joints. Use #8 1 ¼" screws to secure plate to wood.

A7

A8

Attach (G) edges with two 2 ½" screws.

After (G) is secure, attach (H) s. This completes the Lower Bracing.

Take the cross piece assembly and align it on the table frame so it is flush with (D). Use a clamp to hold the (H) edges in place.

BRACE SUPPORTS




42


STEP 3: BRACE SUPPORTS B: Upper Bracing

B1

B2

B3

Cross-cut a piece of 1x4 to a length of 23 ¼", and rip it to a width of 1 ½" to create part (I).

On the upper part (D) that is on the back side, make a mark 23 1 / 8" from the left edge. This is where the left edge of part (I) will be positioned.

Glue the edges, pin with 1" nails, drill a pilot hole, and attach part (I) to part (D) with one 2" screw. Repeat on the other side of the assembly.

B4

B5

Position part (J) in the corner between parts (D) and (B). Apply glue, pin with 1" nails, drill a pilot hole, and secure with a 1 ¼" screw at each intersection.

Repeat with the other part (J).

BRACE SUPPORTS




43


STEP 4: SHELF

CUTLIST 54 / x6 STOCK

23 ¼"

(1x)

21 ¾" 5 ¼"

K

(1x)

5 ¼"

N

25 ½"

(2x)

L 2-3/4"

3 ¾"

*Ripped to 3 ¾"

3/4"

25 ½"

(3x)

M

5 ¼"

1x4 STOCK 12"

(2x)

1 ½"

J

15" 45˚

45˚

SHELF




44


ASSEMBLY VIEW SHELF

TOP

K L J

N

M

M

M

J

L

FRONT

J

N

K

M

SHELF




45


STEP 4: SHELF A: Attach to Structure

A1

A2

Cross-cut a 5 / 4 x6 to a length of 23 ¼" to make part (K). Then cross-cut two 5 / 4 x6 boards to a length of 25 ½", and rip them to a width of 3 ¾" for two part (L)s.

A4

A3

Make two more (J)s that are 15" long and mitered at 45˚.

A5

Cut three 5 / 4 x6s to a length of 25 ½" - this will create parts (M). Cut a 5 / 4 x6 to a length of 21 ¾" to make part (N).

A7

Flip the shelf assembly and wipe any excess glue from the inside of the shelf. Then slide it up into place in the leg assembly. The top edges should be flush with the top edges of parts (B) and (I).

Make a notch in one corner of each that is 2 ¾" by ¾". This will create two part (L)s.

A6

Create the shelf assembly on its own, built upside down. Stand parts (K) and (N) on edge and place them about 23 ¾" apart, and dry-fit parts (L) and (M) on top. The two parts (L) should be at the edges.

Glue, nail in place, drill pilot holes, and attach with 1 ½" screws.

A8

A9

Drill pilot holes and attach with 1 ¼" screws.

Position part (J) in the corner between parts (D) and (K). Drill pilot holes and attach using 1 ¼" screws. Repeat with the other part (J).

SHELF




46


STEP 5: LOWER PLANKS

CUTLIST / 4x6

5

STOCK

26 ¼" 3"

(2x)

5 ¼"

O 2 ¼"

22 ¾"

3 ½"

26 ¼" 5 ¼"

(7x)

P

26 ¼" 1 ¾" (1x)

5 ¼"

Q

21 ¾"

3 ½"

2 ¼"

SHELF




47


ASSEMBLY VIEW LOWER PLANKS

TOP

O P

P

P

P

P

P

P

P

Q

P

P O

FRONT

O

P

Q

LOWER PLANKS




48


STEP 5: LOWER PLANKS A: Left & Right Half

A1

A2

5 4x6 to a length of 26 ¼" to Cross-cut a / create part (P). You’ll need seven of these in total.

A4

A3

5 4x6s to To make part (O), cross-cut four / a length of 26 ¼". Using a jigsaw, make a notch in one corner of each board that is 3 ½" by 2 ¼".

A5

We’ll start with the back left corner of the lower decking. Place part (O) on top of the bracing. The notch should fit around the leg assembly. Dry-fit all planks before attaching.

5 4x6s to a length of Finally, cross-cut two / 26 ¼". Make notches in two corners that are 2 ¼" by 3 ½". This will create part (Q).

A6

Pin in place, beginning at corners, with 1 ¼" nails to prevent shifting. Nailing is sufficient for this shelf, but if you desire, you can pre-drill and screw in 2" hardware as well.

For the right half, start at the right edge of the table with part (Q). Either nail or drill pilot holes and secure with 1 ¼" screws into the bracing. This completes the Lower Planks.

LOWER PLANKS




49


STEP 6: UPPER PLANKS

CUTLIST / 4 x6

5

STOCK

26 ¼" 3"

(2x)

5 ¼"

O 2 ¼"

22 ¾"

3 ½"

26 ¼" (7x)

5 ¼"

P

26 ¼" 1 ¾" (1x)

5 ¼"

Q

21 ¾"

3 ½"

2 ¼"

UPPER PLANKS




50


ASSEMBLY VIEW UPPER PLANKS

TOP

O O

O P

Q Q

P P

P

P P

P

P P P

P

P P

P P

P

P P

O

O O

Q

FRONT

Q

P

P

P

P

O

UPPER PLANKS




51


ASSEMBLY VIEW UPPER PLANKS

TOP

DIAMETER 18"

Note: This is the diameter specified by Big Green Egg for the 15"-wide Medium-sized Egg.

UPPER PLANKS




52


STEP 6: UPPER PLANKS A: Left & Right Half

A1

A2

Cross-cut parts (O), (P), and (Q), for a total of 10 parts.

A3

Starting with the left edge, place part (Q) and four (P)s on the top of the bracing. Dry-fit all planks before attaching.

Use a nail every few inches to pin down the planks, beginning with the corners (Q) and (P). Mark where screws will go, and drill pilot holes before securing planks to the bracing using 1 ¼" screws.

UPPER PLANKS




53


STEP 6: UPPER PLANKS B: Grill Cutout

B1

B2

B3

The final step is to cut out a circle in the upper decking. Make a mark 13 ¾" from 1 the left edge and 13 / 8" from the back edge. This will be the center of your circle.

Use a compass* to draw the 18" diameter circle.

With a jigsaw, cut out the circle.

*Making a compass: Take a thin piece of scrap wood that’s at least 10" long, and make 2 holes whose center points are 9" apart. Put a screw in one hole and place at the center mark. Put a pencil in the other hole, and, using the screw as a pinpoint, pivot the radius arm to form a circle.

UPPER PLANKS




54


OPTIONAL: FINISHING

YellaWood® brand products provide the best available pressure treated lumber protection against rot, fungal decay and termites. Sanding edges is recommended to reduce snags and splintering. At a minimum, we recommend annual application of a water repellent. You can also paint or stain it if you prefer.

A1

Ease any sharp edges with a medium grit sanding block. Apply preferred finish to the wood.




55


INSTALLING BIG GREEN EGG

A1

A2

First, place the concrete paver on the lower decking under the circle you cut out.

With the help of a friend or two, lift the Big Green Egg® over the cutout and carefully lower onto the paver.

CONGRATULATIONS. ENJOY YOUR BEAUTIFUL NEW GRILLING STATION!




56

Big Green Egg Table GALLERY




57

Bird Feeder

This bird feeder should attract many different birds to your yard. With a platform for those birds that like to move around on a flat surface while they pick at feed as well as a dowel for those who prefer a more natural “perch,” this project will please both people and fowl for years. The roof is removable for easy filling and the subbase, with screen and drainage holes, will keep the seed from soaking up moisture, which will keep your backyard friends happier and healthier.

BUILD TIME Cutting parts: 2 hours Assembly: 1 hour Finishing: 2 hours Total: 5 hours *Note: Drill

1

8

" pilot holes for all screws.




58

Bird Feeder

A

TOOLS Miter saw Table saw Drill/driver 1 8 " drill bit 5 16 " drill bit ½" drill bit Brad nailer Utility knife Square Metal cutting snips Staple gun Clamps Damp rag to wipe up excess glue

X1 B

X2

C X1 D

SUPPLIES

X1

(2) 1 x 8 x 8' (2) 1/8" x 5 ½" x 13 ½" acrylic sheets ¼" by 13" dowel 5" x 10" metal screen Waterproof wood glue ¾" galvanized brads 1 ¼" galvanized brads 3 " galvanized staples 8 1 ¼" deck screws

E X1 F X2 G X2

CUT LIST H A B C D E F G H I J K L

(1) (2) (1) (1) (1) (2) (2) (2) (1) (1) (2) (1)

¾ x 7 ¼ x 9" ¾ x 1 x 17 ¾" ¾ x 3 ½ x 11" ¾ x 9 x 11" ¾ x 1 ½ x 11" ¾ x 5 ½ x 10" ¾ x 4 x 8" ¾ x 7 ¼ x 16 ½" ¾ x ¾ x 13" ¾ x 5 x 8" ¾ x ¾ x 5" ¼ x 12 ½"

X2 I

J X1 K

L MORE PLANS AT www.yellawood.co m

X1


X2

X1 ©Great Southern Wood Preserving, Inc.

59

Bird Feeder

H

H

I

Acrylic sheets

G

L

B E C F

B

Screen

A K

J




60

Bird Feeder

Finished view

Roof detail

1 7 / 4"

45

o

4"

H G

8" Hopper end detail 3 2 / 4"

1 /2

" 45

F

8"

" wide grooves 1/ 4 " deep

3/ 16

2"


o

1 /4 " 3



61

Bird Feeder

BUILDING STEPS 01 Cut pieces A through E to the dimensions noted on the cut list. To make part D, you will have to cut 2 pieces of 1 x 8 at 11 ½" long and edge glue and clamp them together. Once the glue has set, trim to size on your table saw.

02 Mark two lines on the base (A) at 2 ¾" and 4 ¾" along the narrow edge and square them down along the length. Drill a series of ten ½" diameter holes along each line, spaced about 1" in from the ends and 1" apart (no need to be exact as long as they are all drilled on your two square lines).

03 Cut a piece of metal screen to 5" x 10" and place it over the holes you drilled in the base (A). Attach it with 3 8 " galvanized staples.

04 With bottom (D) face down on your assembly table, measure 4" in from the long point of the beveled edge and square a line. Place the edge of the base (A) on that line, keeping ends flush with (D), and attach with glue and screws. Repeat the process with bottom (C), measuring 1 ½" from the beveled edge and placing the other end of (A) on that line.

05 Place bottom (E) between (D) and (C), keeping ends flush and an approximate ¾" gap between all beveled edges. Make sure the gaps line up with the drainage holes in base (A). Tack (E) to (A) with 1 ¼" brads from the top side, then flip over and drive screws from underneath (no glue on this step).




62

Bird Feeder

BUILDING STEPS 06 Tack ends (B) in place with glue and 1 ¼" brads along the edges of your base/bottom assembly, keeping ends flush with part (D) and extending 2 ¾" beyond part (C). Carefully drill pilot holes and drive screws to permanently attach.

07 Cut remaining pieces, noting bevel and angle details on hopper ends (F) and roof components (G, H). To cut the grooves in hopper ends (F), set your table saw blade height at ¼" and set the fence at ½". Run all 4 grooves on both hopper ends, then bump the fence very slightly to about 9 16 " and run them again, resulting in grooves about 3 16 " wide. Line up center of hopper ends (F) with the peak of bottom (E) on both sides, keeping bottom edge of hopper (F) flush with bottom edge of ends (B). Attach with glue and screws.

08 Attach cross piece (I) between the peaks of hopper ends (F), with glue and 1 ¼" brads, keeping edges flush.

09 Cut acrylic sheets to size. If you can’t have them cut to size, cut them yourself by running a sharp utility knife along a straightedge several times (10 or more) and snapping them along that line. For smaller cutoffs or to clean up a cut edge, you may need to break off pieces with a pair of pliers. Insert into grooves in hopper ends (F).

10 Attach roof tops (H) to roof ends (G) with glue and screws.




63

Bird Feeder

11 Drill two 5 16 " holes in end pieces (B), centered along the width and 1 ¼" in from the end overhanging part (C). Put a small bit of glue in both holes, insert dowel and attach with ¾" brads.

12 Attach spacers (K) to mounting base (J) with glue and 1¼" brads. If you will be attaching this to a wooden post, screw the mounting base to the post first, then attach mounting base to the underside of base (A), with 2" screws, making sure that the spacers do not block drainage holes. Another method is to attach mounting base to bottom of base (A), then attach a pipe flange to the underside of the mounting base and screw the flange onto the top of a threaded pipe driven into the ground. Either way, your feeder is ready to sand, finish, fill and enjoy!




64

Cocktail Table

This handy little cocktail table features simple joinery that yields a classic appearance with no visible fasteners. Easy to build, you could make several of these in one weekend for a complete set to complement your outdoor seating. You can also easily adjust the dimensions and fashion a coffee table or even a picnic table, resulting in an entire suite of outdoor tables. The pocket-hole screws are simple to use and when combined with waterproof exterior glue, result in a very strong joint that you can’t see unless you’re looking from underneath. The tabletop slats are spaced ¼" apart from each other for drainage, and you can dress up this design by routing chamfers or roundovers on some or all of the slats.

BUILD TIME Cutting parts: Assembly: Finishing: Total:

1 – 2 hours 1 hour 1 hour 3 – 4 hours




65

Cocktail Table

A

TOOLS Table saw Miter saw (or circular or hand saw) Pocket hole jig and corresponding drill bits Drill/driver 24" bar clamps Hammer Damp rag to wipe up excess glue

X5

B X 2

SUPPLIES C

(1) 1 x 8 x 8' (1) 2 x 4 x 4' (4) Exterior-grade 1 ½" L brackets and screws Exterior-grade pan head screws (suitable for pocket-hole joinery) (4) Nylon glides Waterproof wood glue

X2

D X4

CUT LIST A B C D E

(5) (2) (2) (4) (4)

¾ x 2 x 11 ½" ¾ x 3 ¼ x 18" ¾ x 3 ¼ x 11 ½" 1 ½ x 1 ½ x 17 ¼" ¾ x 2 x 13 ¼"


E


X4


66

Cocktail Table EXPLODED VIEW

¼" spacing between slats

B

C B

A

A

A

A

A

C

E

E

1 ½" L brackets

E E D

D

D D

nylon glides




67

Cocktail Cockt ail Tabl able e

BUILDING STEPS 01 From your 1 x 8 stock, stock, rip both a 2" wide and a 3 ¼" wide piece to cut slats and apron pieces (A, B, C and E). After you have cut slats B and C, you can rip the remaining piece of 3 ¼" stock to finish cutting the 2" wide pieces.

02 Rip the 2 x 4 stock stock in half and cut cut the legs (D) according to dimensions.

03 Gather all the slats slats and apron pieces pieces together and choose the best-looking sides that will be exposed, then lightly mark the back sides with an “X “X..”

04 Drill pocket holes in both ends of the back sides of all the middle slats (A), long end slats (B) and aprons (E).

05 Rip several ¼" spacers from scrap material.




68


BUILDING STEPS 06 Lay out the middle middle slats (A) and short short end slats slats (C) face down (pocket holes facing up) on your assembly table with ¼" spacer blocks blocks between them.

07 Apply glue to both end edges of all middle slats, as well as both end edges of short end slats. Position long end slats in place (see diagram).

08 Clamp the assembly together, making sure all edges and faces are flush. flush. Allow to dry. dry.

09 Drive pan head screws into all pocket holes, making sure edges “suck in” tight and remain flush. Drive screws carefully so as not to go completely through your pocket holes. Remove clamps when all screws are driven.

10 Glue and screw apron pieces (E) to the legs (D), keeping top edge of aprons flush with top ends of legs. You can keep the aprons flush with the inside or outside face of the legs if you wish, but in this example, we used ¼" spacers to set them back from the inside face.




69


BUILDING STEPS 11 Place table top assembly assembly face down down and center center leg/apron assembly upside down on the bottom of the table top, leaving a 7 8 " overhang from table edges to outside faces of legs on all four sides.

12 Mark locations locat ions for “L” bracket placement pl acement and a nd drill 1 8 " pilot holes ¼" deep in the corresponding corresponding holes. Drive screws, making sure the leg/apron assembly draws in tight and remains centered.

13 Mark center location on the bottoms of all four legs and drill a 1 16 " pilot hole about ¼" deep. Hammer in nylon glides, which will prevent the legs from wicking up moisture from the ground or deck.

14 Break all edges with sandpaper or rout a roundover around the table top. Finish with a waterproofing finish according to manufacturer directions.




70


STEPS TO POCKET HOLE JOINERY pocket hole hole joinery 01 The essentials of a basic pocket set (from upper left to lower right): the jig for drilling at a predetermined angle, special drill bit with collar stop that leaves a hole with a flat bottom, hex key for collar stop adjustment, square-drive drill bit (most pocket hole screws take this type of bit), and pan-head pocket hole screws. Note the sharp points and aggressive threads of the screws, as well as the flat bottom of the t he screw head. This is what allows the screws to self-tap and seat perfectly flat against the flat-bottomed drill hole, making for a very tight, strong joint.

02 Insert the drill bit until the collar stop rests on top and make sure the tip does not come in contact with the bottom of the jig (leave about 1 8 "+). You may also mount the jig to your workspace, but this is optional.

03 Center the stock to be drilled, making sure the bottom of your work piece is resting squarely and securely on the bottom of the jig. Also make sure you will be drilling into the back of your stock – not the face, or side with the best appearance. Clamp the piece into the jig and carefully drill down through the guide holes, withdrawing the bit after drilling part-way to clear out debris.

04 Clamp the stock in place to its mating piece (spreading glue on the surfaces if desired), making sure to keep the edges and faces flush where needed. Gently drive screws through the drilled holes, stopping when the joint is drawn tight. Driving the screws too aggressively increases the chances of driving them right through the bottom of the drilled hole.

05 Unclamp the piece and you have a very secure joint with fasteners fasteners that are invisible invisible from the face.




71

Corn Hole PROJECT PLAN

Build a regulation size cornhole set and start perfectin perfecting g your game. game. The simp simple le const construct ruction ion of thi this s outdo outdoor or activity makes it an ideal weekend or even after-work project.

Once the frame is construct constructed, ed, angled supports are installed to create the lift needed.

All dimen dimension sions s are are specced specced to the American Americ an Cornho Cornhole le Organi Organizati zation on’s ’s (AC (ACO) O) regulations.

From there, a plywood board is installed, with its signature circle cutout, and everything is sanded and protected. Then it’s just a matter of time and getting a few throw bags before an ofcial game can ensue.

The set feat features ures hand handle le cut cut-out -outs s so so you you can easily carry both boards to wherever wherever you choose to play. Using just a few YellaWood ® boards and some plywood, the game takes shape in a few steps.

BUILD TIME

4

HRS

DIFFICULTY

COST





72

Corn Hole WHAT YOU’LL NEED

SUPPLIES

TOOLS

WOOD STOCK 4x

2"x4"x8'

1x

4'x8'x½" plywood

(actual: 1 ½" x 3 ½" x 8')

Chop saw (or hand or circular saw)

HARDWARE ½ LB

Table saw

Drill / driver

Jig saw

Clamps

Measuring tape

Compass

Hammer

Square

Sanding block

BOX

2 ½" wood screws APPROX. 20x

1 ½" wood screws 3

4x

8

" Drill bit

4" long x 3 8" carriage bolts* 3 8 " washers 3 " wingnuts 8

*Galvanized hardware is the best option, as it provides an extra dimension of weather-proofing.

BUILD TIME CUTTING

2 HRS

ASSEMBLY

+

1 HRS


FINISHING

+

1

TOTAL

=

HRS


4 HRS


73

Corn Hole WHAT YOU’LL NEED

CUT LIST: DIAGRAMS 2x4x8' STOCK 4 BOARDS

48"

21"

A A

B

B

A A

B

B

3 ½" (actual board width)

DETAIL 1 ¾"

C

A

C

D

C 29˚

A

4" 6"

C 1 ¼" height

C

D

13"

4'x8'x ½" PLYWOOD 1 SHEET

1 ¾"

3

8

"

1 ¾" radius cutout

drill-bit hole

18"

48"

E

24"

12"

E

9"

6" diameter

CUTLIST: TEXT

COUNT

PART

STOCK

4x 4x 4x 1x 2x

A B C D E

2x4 2x4 2x4 2x4 4x8 ply


Note:

DIMENSION

3 ½ x 1 ½ x 48" 3 ½ x 1 ½ x 21" 3 ½ x 1 ½ x 13" 3 ½ x 1 ½ x 18" 24" x 48" x ½"

Because this is a simple piece, there are no direct measurements based on pre-assembled portions. with an angle cut @ 29°


Feel free to cross-cut or rip-cut all of the pieces in the cut list prior to assembly.


74

Corn Hole DIMENSIONS & DIAGRAMS

TOP

Note: Board dimensions can vary, so be sure to measure your stock.

24"

48"

LEFT

48 "

12" 9 ° 1 0

4" 50 ¾"




75

Corn Hole OVERVIEW OF STEPS

SEQUENCE OF BUILD

1: FRAME

2: ANGLED SUPPORTS

3: SUPPORT BRACE

4: BOARD SURFACE

6: FINISHING & ACCESSORIES




76


STEP 1: FRAME

Note: To limit redundancy, the instructions below are for one cornhole board. Repeat each step for the second board in the set.

1

2

3

Cut parts (A) and (B ) to size.

We’ll begin with the handle cutout, found on one side of the board set. First, draw the 4" x 6" outline and ease a curve based on the diagram provided on Page 74.

Then use a jigsaw to cut on this line, creating a handle.

4

5

6

To make the frame, arrange parts (A) and (B) on a flat surface in a rectangle as shown. Keep the edges flush and the angles at 90 degrees (use a square to ensure right angles).

Tip: When arranging the rectangle frames for both sets, put the two (A)s with the handle cutout in a mirroring orientation so that, when fully assembled, the plywood board will be on the inside of the person carrying the set.

Use two 2 ½" wood screws at each corner to attach the boards to each other.

You can also cross-cut all the pieces in the cut list. The following instructions assume that the base-line cuts have been made.

FRAME




77


STEP 2: ANGLED SUPPORTS

7

8

9

At the bottom of par t (C), mark a lin e at a 29˚ angle from one of the corners. You can also use a compound miter saw to dial in to 29˚ if you have one.

Cut along this line with a miter saw or chop saw.

At the top of part (C), mark a po int that is 1 ¾" from the top and 1 ¾" from the edges. This is the center of the circle.

10

11

12

Using a compass, draw a semi-circle with a 1 ¾" radius.

Cut along the circle line with a jigsaw.

Using a 3 8" drill bit, make a hole at the center of the circle you marked.

ANGLED SUPPORTS




78


STEP 2: ANGLED SUPPORTS 13

14

15

On the outside of part (A), mark a point 4" from the left edge and 1 ¾" from the top edge.

Tip: Direct-measure your board stock’s width and use half of this number in place of the 1 ¾" for a more precise mid-point. 1 ¾" is based on a 3 ½"-width 2x4.

Using a 3 8" drill bit, make a hole at this point.

16

17

18

Connect part (C) to part (A ) with a 3 8 " carriage bolt. Use a hammer if needed.

Install the washer and wingnut to secure the angled supports.

Repeat these steps on the other side of the frame to attach the second angled support.

ANGLED SUPPORTS




79


STEP 3: SUPPORT BRACE

19

20

Position part (D) between parts (C ), making sure that it is about an inch off the work surface.

Use two 2 ½" wood screws at each end to attach part (D) to parts (C).

SUPPORT BRACE




80


STEP 4: BOARD SURFACE

21

22

23

On part (E), mark a point that is 12" from the left and right edges and 9" from the top edge.

Using a compass, draw a circle with a 3" radius.

At the center of the circl e, drill a

24

25

26

Insert the jigsaw blade into this hole and proceed to cut out the circle.

Place part (E) on the frame, making sure all the edges are flush.

Attach at the four co rners us ing 1 ½" wood screws. Then use screws at 12-inch intervals along the perimeter of the board.

3

8"

hole.

BOARD SURFACE




81


FINISHING & ACCESSORIES

YellaWood ® brand products provide the best available pressure treated lumber protection against rot, fungal decay and termites. Sanding edges is recommended to reduce snags and splintering. At a minimum, we recommend an annual application of a water repellent. You can also paint or stain it if you prefer.

27

28

29

Ease any sharp edges with a medium-grit sanding block. Apply preferred finish to the wood.

Refer to buildyella.com for creative cornhole finishing ideas to inspire how to paint or decorate the boards.

Add the throw bags of your choice. (You can spray fabrics with Scotchgard™ to add a layer of protection from outdoor elements.)

CONGRATULATIONS! CONGRATULA TIONS! ENJOY YOUR NEW CORNHOLE GAME GAM E SET.





82


GALLERY OF IMAGES




83

Daytripper Chair

This chair is made up of two interlocking pieces that can be taken apart for easy storage or transport. When set up, the chair is sturdy, comfortable, and bears a simple elegance. You can break it down and easily carry it to the beach or a little league game. Or keep a couple on hand in storage for when you need extra outdoor seating.

BUILD TIME Cutting parts: 2 – 3 hours Assembly: 2 hours Finishing: 2 hours Total: 6 – 7 hours




84

Daytripper Chair

A

TOOLS Miter saw or circular saw Table saw Drill/driver 1 8 " drill bit Jig saw Damp rag to wipe up excess glue

X2

B X2

SUPPLIES (2) 2 x 6 x 8' (2) 1 x 6 x 8' 1 8 " x 24" x 48" hardboard for templates 2" deck screws Waterproof wood glue

C X1

CUT LIST A B C D E

(2) (2) (1) (2) (11)

1 ½ x 5 ½ x 36" 1 ½ x 5 x 34" ¾ x 3 ½ x 23" ¾ x 2 ½ x 23" ¾ x 2 x 23"

D X2

E X 11




85

Daytripper Chair Back leg detail 2 ¾"

A 2 ¾"

2 ¾"

5 ½"

18" ½" radius on all

36"

corners

Seat leg detail B 2 ½"

2 ½"

2 ½"

5"

17" 34" C

Exploded view E ½" spaces between all slats E

B

A D

20"

A

D

B

12 ½"

18 ¾"

23"

Top slat detail 23" 9"

9" 1¾"

Two 1" diameter holes joined w/ jig saw




86

Daytripper Chair

BUILDING STEPS 01 Cut your 2 x stock to length for the back legs (A) and seat legs (B), then lay out the curves according to the dimensions on the illustration detail (see special instructions for laying out curves). To round the corners of your legs, lay a 25-cent piece in each corner and trace it to achieve what amounts to a ½" radius. You may find it easier to first lay out the curves on a piece of hardboard and make a pattern. This will ensure consistent pieces and you’ll have the pattern for later use if you decide to build more chairs.

02 Cut the top slat (C), seat supports (D) and slats (E) to dimensions on the cut list. On your top slat (C), mark two points 9" in from each end and centered 1 ¾" from the top and bottom edges, then drill two 1" diameter holes at those points. Connect the outside edges of those two holes with a straightedge and cut those lines with a jig saw to create a hand-grip hole.

03 Begin assembly by attaching the seat supports (D) to the back legs (A) according to the dimensions in the illustration. You may have to use a framing square to make sure the supports are square on the legs.

04 Start attaching slats by beginning with the top slat (C) flush with the top edges of the back legs (A). Use ½" spacers to continue attaching 5 more slats (E). Make sure all slats are evenly spaced and square to the legs.

05 Attach the remaining six slats (E) to the seat legs (B), beginning with the front slat flush to front edges of the legs. Again, use ½" spacers and keep slats square to the legs.




87

Daytripper Chair

BUILDING STEPS 06 Sand all edges and surfaces smooth, apply a waterproofing finish according to manufacturer directions, interlock the two components and relax!

TIP: This is one of those projects that may be more easily sanded and finished without all the pieces connected. If you choose this method, do an initial assembly without glue to make sure all pilot holes and edges line up and appear to your liking. Then disassemble, sand smooth, and reassemble with glue and screws.




88

Daytripper Chair LAYING OUT CURVES 00 When you need to lay out curved lines, there are many different methods you may use. The following technique is one of the easiest and requires only that you know the piece’s final length and width, as well as a piece of hardboard or other pliable material that can easily be pushed or pulled to create a consistent curved line. This illustration uses the curved legs from the daytripper chair as an example, but you can use the concepts for any of the projects featured in this section.

01 After cutting your raw stock to length, measure up from the bottom edge on both ends and mark the width of the piece (2 ¾" in this example). Then, measure down from the top edge along the centerline and mark the same measurement.

02 Drive finish nails into your assembly table at each end at the bottom corners of your stock, place your piece of hardboard against those nails and push up along the centerline until the edge of your hardboard touches your mark at the centerline (you may have to push and bend the nails to make sure your hardboard edge intersects the bottom corners properly). Hold the hardboard steady and lightly trace along the edge to get your curve.

03 Tack two more nails into the assembly table at the 2 ¾" marks along the edge of both ends and place your hardboard against them. Push along the centerline until the edge of the hardboard touches the top edge of the stock and trace that curved line.

04 Your result is two parallel and consistent curves exactly 2 ¾" apart from each other along the entire length of the stock. Make your cut with a jig saw or band saw, leaving the line on your finished piece, and then sand cuts smooth until you just remove the pencil line.




89

Daytripper Table

The perfect complement to the daytripper chair plan, this table folds nearly flat for easy storage or transport.The gentle curves and use of pivot and lock dowels give this project an air of elegant craftsmanship that belies its simplicity in construction. You might want to make templates for the legs and stretchers, because once your friends see this table in action, they’ll want you to build them one — or more!

BUILD TIME Cutting parts: 2 – 3 hours Assembly: 1 – 2 hours Finishing: 2 – 3 hours Total: 5 – 8 hours *Note: Drill pilot holes for all screws




90

Daytripper Table

TOOLS A Miter saw or circular saw Table saw Jig saw Drill/driver Compass Clamps 1 1 16 " and 8 " drill bits 7 8 " spade bit Hammer Nail set Damp rag to wipe up excess glue

X4

B X2

SUPPLIES C

(3) 1 x 6 x 8' ¾" x 72" hardwood dowel ¼" x 12" hardwood dowel 1 ½" deck screws 6d galvanized finish nails Waterproof wood glue

X 11

D

CUT LIST A B C D E F

(4) (2) (11) (1) (2) (2)

¾ x 4 x 25" ¾ x 2 ¾ x 21 ½" ¾ x 1 ¾ x 16 ½" ¾ dia. x 13" ¾ dia. x 14 5 8 " ¼ dia. x 1 ¾"

E

F


X1


X2

X2


91

Daytripper Table

C

¼" space between all slats B E A

B A

D

A

F

A

Stretcher detail

2¼" 1 5 8"

1

B 7 8"

dia.

7 8"

8

"

dia.

1" radius

Leg detail 1

3

16

(center)

"

2 38" 1 3 16" 7

8

A

4"

dia.

1½" radius on all corners




92

Daytripper Table

BUILDING STEPS Cut the legs (A) and stretchers (B) to length according to the cut list. Lay out the curves and mark the center points for all holes to be drilled (see special instructions “How to lay out curves”). For the ½" radius corners on the stretchers (B), simply trace the outline of a 25-cent piece. The radius on the legs (A) must be at least 1" to allow the legs to fold easily into one another. You can use a compass to get the exact measurement you want, or simply trace the bottom of a glue bottle or any other round object that measures more than 2" in diameter. Cut the curves, drill the holes and make the slots in all pieces. You can clamp 2 pieces together and cut them at the same time, or make a hardboard template to keep and use for future projects. Rip your remaining 1 x 6 stock to 1 ¾" wide and cut 11 slats (C) 16 ½" long. Place one slat on top of the stretchers (B) at the end with the slot (not the hole) and attach with glue and screws. Leave ½" overhang on the front edge and 1" on either end. Cut all dowels to length, turn the stretchers/ one slat assembly over and slip one table dowel (E) through the outer legs and stretchers at the end opposite the attached slat. Make sure the dowel ends are flush with the outside face of the stretchers and attach with glue and 6d finish nail (drill a 1 16" pilot hole through the edge of the stretcher and into the dowel, then drive the nail below edge surface of the stretcher with a nail set). Attach remaining slats (C) with glue and screws, making sure the slats are square to the stretchers and the edges line up. Use ¼" spacer blocks to keep gaps consistent.




93

Daytripper Table

BUILDING STEPS 05 Turn the assembly over and attach the inner legs by setting them between the outer legs and sliding the pivot dowel (D) through the center dowel holes in all 4 legs. Attach remaining table dowel (E) by inserting it through the dowel holes in the inner legs. Pin dowel (E) to the inner legs and the pivot dowel (D) to the outer legs with glue and galvanized finish nails.

06 Install lock dowels (F) through the pivot dowel (D). Place a piece of folded paper between the legs on either side to leave enough space for easy movement during opening and closing, then drill ¼" holes through the pivot dowel. Coat the lock dowels with glue, insert them into the ¼" holes and pin them in place with finish nails.

07 Sand all edges and surfaces, and apply a waterproof finish according to manufacturer specifications. Your table is ready to set on your deck or be folded away for transport and easy storage!

TIP: This is one of those projects that may be more easily sanded and finished without all the pieces connected. If you choose this method, do an initial assembly without glue to make sure all pilot holes and edges line up and appear to your liking. Then disassemble, sand smooth, and reassemble with glue and screws.




94

Daytripper Table

Laying Out Curves 00 When you need to lay out curved lines, there are many different methods you may use. The following technique is one of the easiest and requires only that you know the piece’s final length and width, as well as a piece of hardboard or other pliable material that can easily be pushed or pulled to create a consistent curved line. This illustration uses the curved legs from the daytripper chair as an example, but you can use the concepts for any of the 20 projects featured in this section.








95

Doghouse PROJECT PLAN

Build an outdoor shelter for your furry companion. This sturdy house will keep your best

friend warm and dry, and you’ll have fun making it. This design features a

This plan will accommodate dogs up to 60 pounds, but it can easily be modied to t a dog of any size.

removable roof for easier cleaning, and the oor is raised off the ground to keep loyal companions protected from rainy

BUILD TIME

6

HRS

weather.

DIFFICULTY

BuildYella.com




96

Doghouse WHAT YOU’LL NEED

CUT LIST 36"

A - E: Cut from ¾" plywood 36"

A

X2 40"

18"

B

X2 40"

34 ½"

C

X1 48"

27 5 8"

X1

D 48"

27 3 8"

X1

E

F - H: Cut from 1x4 stock

17"

F

1 5 8"

G

1 5 8"

H

1 5 8"

X8

(Note actual thickness = ¾")


29¼"

X4 46½"


X2


97

Doghouse WHAT YOU’LL NEED

CUT LIST

TOOLS Circular saw Table saw

Stapler Hammer

Jigsaw Drill / driver

Utility knife Square

7

Brad nailer Damp rag to wipe up excess glue

/ 64"

countersink drill bit Clamps Straight-edge

A B C D

(2) ¾ x 36 x 36" (exterior plywood) (2) ¾ x 40 x 18" (exterior plywood) (1) ¾ x 40 x 34½" (exterior plywood) (1) ¾ x 48 x 27 5 8 " (exterior plywood)

E F G H

(1) ¾ x 48 x 27 3 8 " (exterior plywood) (8) ¾ x 17 x 15 8 " (4) ¾ x 29¼ x 15 8 " (2) ¾ x 46½ x 15 8 "

SUPPLIES (3) ¾" x 4' x 8' exterior plywood (2) 1 x 4 x 10' 2" deck screws 15# roofing felt One bundle asphalt shingles 38

" galvanized staples

¾" roofing nails 1½" galvanized brads or finish nails Waterproof wood glue A few scrap 2x4s

BUILD TIME CUTTING

2 HRS

ASSEMBLY

+

3 HRS


FINISHING

+

1

TOTAL

=

HRS


6 HRS


98

Doghouse DIMENSIONS & DIAGRAMS

G

H E

D H

G

A B

F

B

F

C

A




99

Doghouse DIMENSIONS & DIAGRAMS

Front layout

A

36"

7"

16" 18"

4 1/4"

14" 36"




100

Doghouse CONSTRUCTION

BUILDING STEPS

01

02

Cross-cut and rip the sides (B), bottom (C), long roof (D) and short roof (E) from exterior plywood to the dimensions on the cut list. Unless you are working with a large support for your table saw, you should make your first cuts from a full sheet of plywood with a circular saw and straight edge as a guide. You can then trim or cut smaller sheets to size on your table saw.

01

To make the front and back pieces (A), star t by cutting two pieces from your plywood measuring 36" square. Clamp the two pieces together, keeping all four edges flush and lay out the roof angle cuts according to the measurements on the illustration detail. Using a straight edge as a guide, make the angled cuts with your circular saw.

03

Attach the sides (B) to the back (A). First, drill countersunk pilot holes through the face of the back piece into the edge of the side pieces. Apply glue to the joint and fasten with 2" deck screws.

04

Lay out the door opening on the front piece (A) according to the measurements on the illustration detail. Drill a pilot hole inside your opening’s marks large enough to insert your jigsaw blade and cut out the opening.

05

Place two scrap 2" x 4" pieces on edge inside the side/back assembly and place the bottom piece (C) on top of them. Drill countersunk pilot holes through the sides and back and into the edge of the bottom piece all the way around, spacing your holes about 6" apart. Remove the bottom piece, apply glue to the three edges with pilot holes, place it back inside the assembly and attach with 2" deck screws.

02

03

04

05




101


BUILDING STEPS

06

Attach the front piece (A) with the same pilot hole, glue and 2" deck screws as described in Step 3.

07

Make the roof by drilling pilot holes through the face of piece (E) and into the edge of the shor ter piece (D) along the 48" long edge. Apply glue to the edge of piece (D) and attach with 2" deck screws. This step is easiest to do with the roof panels standing up on their shorter edge (front or back as opposed to top or bottom) on a flat surface.

08

09

10

06

Cut four 17" sections from your 1x4. Then, rip these in half so you have 8 pieces approximately 1 5 / 8" wide (F). Attach the first trim piece (F) on the side face of the doghouse, keeping the bottom edge flush with the bottom and one edge flush with the front of the doghouse. Next, place another trim piece on the front of the doghouse.

07

To assure a tight fit for the roof trim, start by cutting a 45° angle on one end of a rake (G), hold it in place under the roof edge and mark the other end at the bottom edge of the roof. Cut a parallel 45° at that mark and attach with glue and brads. Repeat this step for the other three roof rake pieces (G). Once they are attached with brads, go back and drill countersink pilot holes through the roof top into the rakes at 6" intervals, then attach with 2" deck screws.

08

For the fascia (H), measure between the rakes or hold a piece of trim and mark it and cut it to length. Once you’ve ensured the fascia fits between the rakes, rip a 45° bevel along one edge to match the bottom edge of the roof. Attach with glue and brads, then countersunk 2" deck screws.

09

10




102


BUILDING STEPS

11

12

Roll roofing felt out over the roof and let it overhang. Attach felt to the roof with staples, then trim it flush with a utility knife. To make a starter strip for your shingles, score a line on the back of a shingle along the top edge of the cellophane/adhesive strip. Bend at the line and break the shingle apar t. Place it on the roof face up with the adhesive along the bottom edge, keeping the shingle edges flush or overhanging the roof edge just a bit. Attach with roofing nails (3 along the top of the star ter strip). Continue along the entire bottom edge of both sides.

11

Apply shingles starting from the bottom, overlapping each course and staggering the shingle slots/seams.

12 13

Finish the peak by applying ridge caps. Take leftover shingles and cut the tab sections off and attach them on the ridge perpendicular to the ridge line. Overlap them so that the tar strip is just covered. The last shingle will have two nail heads visible. You can apply a bead of silicone sealant over them for added water protection.

14

Fill all countersunk screw holes with wood putty, make sure all nail heads are set below the surface, and sand everything smooth. Apply exterior paint and/or finish according to manufacturer recommendations.

13

14




103

Double Adirondack Chair PROJECT PLAN

Build a comfortable and sturdy adirondack chair for two. There are many variations of the classic adirondack chair. This particular version features straightforward construction and common materials. This chair makes for a satisfying project that can be built and finished in one weekend. And when properly finished, it will provide years of comfortable seating.

Note: For this project, it is recommended that you do a dry assembly first to make sure everything fits and lines up. Then disassemble, sand smooth, apply finish and reassemble the chair with glue and appropriate fasteners.

BUILD TIME

14 HRS

DIFFICULTY

BuildYella.com




104

Double Adirondack Chair WHAT YOU’LL NEED

CUT LIST

A X 2 B X 2 C X 2 D X 1 E X 1 F X 1 G X 2 H X 2 I X 2 J X 3 K X 2 L X 12 M X 1 N X 2 O

X 10

P X 2 MORE PLANS AT www.yellawood.co m



105

Double Adirondack Chair WHAT YOU’LL NEED

TOOLS Miter saw Table saw Jigsaw Hand saw Drill/driver 1 / 8" drill bit 3 / 8" drill bit

CUT LIST Countersink drill bit Router 1 / 2" Radius roundover router bit Socket set Framing/combination squares Clamps Damp rag to wipe up excess glue

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P

SUPPLIES (4) 2 x 6 x 8' (1) 2 x 4 x 8' (8) 1 x 6 x 8' 2" and 3" deck screws (2) 3 / 8 x 3 ½" galvanized carriage bolts (2) 3 / 8" galvanized flat washers and nuts Waterproof wood glue

(2) (2) (2) (1) (1) (1) (2) (2) (2) (3) (2) (12) (1) (2) (10) (2)

1 ½ x 5 ½ x 31" 1 ½ x 5 ½ x 22 ¾" 1 ½ x 3 ½ x 19 ¾" 1 ½ x 5 ½ x 60" 1 ½ x 5 ½ x 60" 1 ½ x 5 ½ x 67" 1 ½ x 3 ½ x 9 ½" 1 ½ x 2 ¾ x 8" 7 8 x 8" ¾ x 3 / 7 8 x 30" ¾ x 3 / ¾ x 5 ½ x 30" ¾ x 5 ½ x 27" ¾ x 2 ¼ x 60" ¾ x 5 ½ x 24 ½" ¾ x 2 ¼ x 24 ½" ¾ x 2 x 6"

BUILD TIME CUTTING

4 HRS

ASSEMBLY

+

5 HRS


FINISHING

+

3

TOTAL

=

HRS


12 HRS


106

Double Adirondack Chair OVERVIEW OF STEPS

J J J L H G H I

G

I

O N

K

F

P

E

K

O

A C

N B

M

B

P

A D C




107

Double Adirondack Chair DIMENSIONS & DIAGRAMS

Finished View

Armrest detail

2 ¾" radius 5 ½"

K

3" 30"

Splat detail

Tabletop detail

4 5 / 8"

3 7 / 8" Cut along this line

27" L

27"

L

L

L

L

L

L

¼" gaps between

27"

slats

30"

21 5 / 8"

J

J

J

2 1 / 4"

Rear Rear seat sl at detail

Brace detail 2"

2 1 / 4"

2 1 / 4"

P 5 ½"

N

5 ½"

24 ½"



6"

¾"


108


Rear leg detail Straight line between these 2 points Bottom point of front curve

Begin back curve here

17"

5 ¾" ½"

4"

A

5 ½"

1 ¼"

4 3 / 8"

4" 1 ¾"

3 ¾" 31"

Copy top & front profile from rear leg detail

5 ¾"

17" 2 3 / 8"

B 20°

1 ¾"

14" 22¾"

Center support detail




109


Front leg detail

C

3 ½"

19¾"

Front rail detail 30" 3"

5½"

D

60"

Rear cross member detail 30"

E

7 ¾"

2"

5 ½"

22¼" 2 ¼"

60" Repeat measurements on the other side




110


Seat back support detail

F

5 ½" 3 ¼"

3 ¼" 5 ¾"

15 5 / 8" 27½"

20° bevel cuts 67"

Repeat measurements on the other side

Trim after installing armrests

Table upright detail

8" 3 ½"

G

9 ½"

Table brace detail

2 ¾"

H 8"

Table panel detail

7 3 ⁄ 8"

I 8"




111


Front seat slat detail

M

¾"

2 ¼" use a ½" radius roundover router bit to round this edge

Seat slat detail

2 ¼"

O

24½"




112

Double Adirondack Chair CONSTRUCTION

BUILDING STEPS

01 Cut all parts to size, referring to detail illustrations for laying out curved, tapered and otherwise shaped pieces. When cutting rear legs (A) and center supports (B), lay out and cut one rear leg and use that as a pattern to lay out the other rear leg and the seat curve portion of the center support.

01 02 Measure and mark the center points of the front rail (D), rear cross member (E) and seat back support (F) after they have been cut and shaped to size.

03 Attach front rail (D) to rear legs (A), keeping tops and outside edges flush. Attach with 3" screws through the face of the front rail (see photo 01).

02

On a flat and level work surface, attach the front rail/rear leg assembly to the front legs (C). Make sure the bottoms of the rear legs sit flat on the work surface and use a framing square to position the front leg properly, keeping the face of the front rail ¼" back from the front edge of the front legs (C) (see photo 02). Clamp in place and attach with 3" screws through the face of the front leg and into the edge of the front rail (see photo 03). Now pre-drill for 3 the carriage bolts with a / 8" drill bit. Your bolt should pass through front leg (C) and rear leg (A), leaving enough room to accept a washer and bolt on the interior.

03

04–05 Measure 7" on either side of your center marks on the front rail (D) and rear cross member (E). Attach center supports (B) to the front rail with 3" screws, keeping the inner edge of center support on those lines 7" off center (see photo 04). Place rear cross member (E) on top of the rear legs, keeping outside edges flush and lining up the bottom edge of the cross member with the point at which you began the curved line on the back of the rear legs (A) . See detailed illustration and exploded view for proper placement. Attach center supports (B) to the underside of the rear cross member with 3" screws, again keeping the inner edge of the center support on the 7" line on the rear cross member (see photo 05).



04

05


113


BUILDING STEPS

06 Attach armrests (K) to top of front legs (C), using 3" screws. Position armrest to sit 2 ¾" beyond the front edge of front leg (C) and overhang ½" from the inside face of front leg (see photo 06).

07 Cut two temporary braces to 19 ¾" long and set

06

them vertically against rear legs. Position the rear edge of the braces at 24" from the front edge of the front legs (C) (see photo 07). The armrests (K) should rest level on top of the braces. Clamp or temporarily screw braces into place. Make guide marks on seat back support (F) at 3 ¾" in from both ends for armrest alignment. Clamp back support (F) to armrests (K) with your guide marks along the inside edge of the armrests. Attach together with 2" screws from underneath (see photo 08). The seat back support (F) will protrude past the outside edges of the armrest (K). Trim off protruding edges to line up with outside edge of armrests (K) (see photo 09).

07

08 Assemble center table framing (parts G and H) as shown in the exploded view illustration. Make sure it fits between center supports (B) and then remove and attach front slats (I) (see photo 10). Attach front slat (M) to the top of front rail (D), keeping the front edge of the slat even with the front edge of the front legs (C). Position (G/H/I) assembly between center supports (B). Keep the top level with the back support (F) and square with the top of front seat slat (see photo 11). Clamp in place and attach with 3" screws through center supports (B) into assembly uprights (G) (see photo 12).

08

09

09 Mark the center of the center table top slat (J) and line it up with the center of seat back support, keeping back edges flush. The front edge of center table slat (J) should overhang the front of table front slats by 5". Attach two more table top slats (J) with ¼" spacers, keeping back edges flush. The sides of table top slats should overhang the side of center table by about ½".

10




114


BUILDING STEPS

10 After cutting the tapers on splats (L), lay two of them on a flat surface with their square edges (not the tapered ones) together and their bottoms flush. Place two more splats on either side of these with straight edges against tapered edges for a total of six splats. Square a line along the bottom to align with the bottoms of the middle two splats, and then measure and lay out the curved top (see splat detail illustration on page 97). With a jigsaw, cut along bottom square line and curved top cut line. Do this for both sets of back splats. Clamp a scrap piece of lumber under the rear cross member (E) and set the bottom of the splats on that scrap.

11

11 Align the ¼" space between the middle 2 splats with the center of the curved cut of both the rear cross member (E) and seat back support (F), and place ¼" spacers between the other four splats. Attach through the face of the splats and into both the rear cross member and seat back support (one 2" screw per splat into the rear cross member, two 2" screws per splat into the seat back support) (see photo 13). You may now remove temporary vertical bracing.

12

12 Begin placing seat slats (O), starting with one slat

13

tight against the front seat slat (M) and keeping ¼" spacing between the rest of the slats. Place the rear seat slat last, making sure the curve of the rear slat fits the curve of the splats. Attach with 2" screws.

13 Position armrest braces (P) against front legs (C). Drill 1 / 8" pilot holes through (P) into (C) and from the top of armrest (K) into (P). Attach with 2" screws (see photo 14).

14

14 Make sure all pieces line up and are flush, sanding and trimming when necessary. Then disassemble, sand all surfaces smooth, apply waterproofing finish according to manufacturer instructions and reassemble with glue and screws. Now you’re ready to place your piece of fine outdoor furniture and enjoy!

15




115

Double Adirondack Chair GUIDE

LAYING OUT CURVES

A When you need to lay out curved lines, there are many different methods you may use. The following technique is one of the easiest and requires only that you know the piece’s final length and width, as well as a piece of hardboard or other pliable material that can easily be pushed or pulled to create a consistent curved line. This illustration uses the curved legs from the daytripper chair as an example, but you can use the concepts for any of the 20 projects featured in this section.

A

B After cutting your raw stock to length, measure up from the bottom edge on both ends and mark the width of the piece (2¾" in this example). Then, measure down from the top edge along the centerline and mark the same measurement.

BB

C Drive finish nails into your assembly table at each end at the bottom corners of your stock, place your piece of hardboard against those nails and push up along the centerline until the edge of your hardboard touches your mark at the centerline (you may have to push and bend the nails to make sure your hardboard edge intersects the bottom corners properly). Hold the hardboard steady and lightly trace along the edge to get your curve.

CC

D Tack two more nails into the assembly table at the 2¾" marks along the edge of both ends and place your hardboard against them. Push along the centerline until the edge of the hardboard touches the top edge of the stock and trace that curved line.

DD

E

Your result is two parallel and consistent curves exactly 2¾" apart from each other along the entire length of the stock. Make your cut with a jig saw or band saw, leaving the line on your finished piece, and then sand cuts smooth until you just remove the pencil line.

EE




116

Double Rocker

Rock away those lazy summer evenings in this roomy yet cozy rocker built for two. With its easy, graceful curves and comfortable contours, you can sit in comfort while explaining to friends and guests just how you built such a complicated piece of furniture. Just don’t tell them how simple it really was, or they’ll be asking you to build one for them.

BUILD TIME Cutting parts: 3 – 4 hours Assembly: 2 – 3 hours Finishing: 3 – 5 hours Total: 8 – 12 hours




117

Double Rocker

TOOLS

A

*Note: Drill pilot holes for all screws

X9 Miter saw Table saw Jig saw Drill/driver 1 8 " drill bit Countersink drill bill Square Clamps Damp rag to wipe up excess glue

B X1 C X1 D X1

SUPPLIES

E

(3) 1 x 6 x 8' (1) 2 x 4 x 8' (9) 1 x 3 x 10' 1 ¼", 2" and 3" deck screws Waterproof wood glue

X1 F X1 G X 13

CUT LIST A B C D E F G H I J K L M

(9) (1) (1) (1) (1) (1) (13) (2) (1) (2) (4) (2) (2)

H ¾ x 5 x 33" ¾ x 3 ½ x 48" ¾ x 3 ½ x 48" ¾ x 3 ½ x 46 ½" 1 ½ x 3 ½ x 54 ¼" ¾ x 2 5 8 x 48" ¾ x 1 ½ x 49 ½" ¾ x 5 x 34 ½" ¾ x 5 x 18" ¾ x 5 ½ x 19 ¾" ¾ x 5 x 37¼" ¾ x 5 ½ x 30" ¾ x 2 x 6"

X2 I X1 J X2 K X4 L X2 M X2




118

Double Rocker

A A

A

A

D A

L

A

A

A

G

E

M B L C

J G

F I M

K H

K

J

¼" spacing between all slats (G) and slats (A)




119

Double Rocker 5 ½"

2"

M 6"

Brace Detail

J Leg Detail

19 ¾"

Armrest Detail

2 ¾" 2 ¼"

L

2 ¾" radius

2 ¾"

30" Seat supports detail

17 ½"

(A) 90°

20° bevels on slats (G)

4" 3 ½" 2 ½"

(B) 5" H

cut along dotted line for part I

3 ¼"

(F) (C)

32 ¾"

4 ½"

34 ¼" 34 ½" Rocker detail 37 ¼"

2" 5"

2 ¼"

1"

90°

K

1 ¾" 18 5 8 "

cut away from outside rocker for leg (J) MORE PLANS AT www.yellawood.co m

cut away from inside rocker for seat support (H)



120

Double Rocker

BUILDING STEPS 01 Cut all pieces to length and width according to the cut list. When you lay out the rockers (K), be sure to mark the two square lines on either end (one at 2" and one at 1 ¾", see rocker detail illustration) before you cut the curves. These will serve as reference points for placement of legs (J) and seat supports (H).

02 When laying out seat supports, cut two pieces (H) at full size, then cut piece (I) using the dotted lines on seat support detail illustration as a guide. When cutting pieces H, I, J, K, L and M, choose the best sides (faces) of your stock and clamp them together face-to-face or back-toback and gang cut them (2 armrests at once, 2 legs at once, 2 rockers at once (twice), etc.) Note on seat support detail that there are 4 seat slats that have 20° bevels, 2 on one edge and 2 on both edges. Cut those so the face still measures 1 ½".

03 Make a squaring jig on your assembly table to aid you in laying out/attaching splats (A). Clamp two straight objects (boards or four-foot levels) to your table at a perfect right angle and then place your splats face down with ¼" spacers between them, making sure ends are tight to the squaring jig.

04 Measure up 16" from bottom edges and square a line across all 9 splats. Attach support (D) with 1 ¼" screws (two screws in every splat), keeping bottom edge of support on that line.

05 Turn assembly over so faces are up. Attach supports B and C to each other (see illustration) with 2" screws, then place a scrap 1 x 4 under support (D) and place B/C assembly under the bottom end of splats so that the splat edges line up with the bottom of edge (B) all the way across and attach with 2" screws.




121

Double Rocker

BUILDING STEPS 06 When slats are secure, measure up 27" on the outside edge of both end splats and lay out a curve, connecting those two 27" marks with the top of the middle splat at the center point (see “Laying Out Curves” on page 9 for more information.) Cut with a jig saw.

07 Choose your two inside rocker pieces (K) and place your seat support (H) on the back side (not face) of the rockers at your 1 ¾" marks, keeping the bottom edge of H roughly flush with bottom edge of rocker (K). The edges should line up very closely, but don’t be concerned if they are not perfect, you can sand everything smooth later. Trace the edges of seat supports on the rockers and cut with a jig saw.

08 Place legs (J) on the faces of your outside rocker pieces (K), keeping the front edge of the legs (straight edge) square with the 2" line you made earlier on your rockers. Keep the corner of the straight edge of the leg flush with the bottom profile of the rocker (trim excess later) and trace the leg outline on the rocker. Cut away with a jig saw.

09 Assemble rockers (K), seat supports (H) and legs (J) with glue and 1 ¼" screws (see illustration for assistance). Trim the bottom of leg (J) to follow rocker profile. Clamp both rocker/leg/seat support assemblies together so that top edges of rockers, front edges of legs and bottom edges of seat supports (all square edges) all line up with each other. You can now sand the bottom profile of the rocker and the seat contour of seat supports so they match perfectly.

10 Clamp one rocker/seat support/leg assembly to your assembly table, making sure the top of the rocker is level (independent of how level your table is). Attach spreader (F) to both rocker assemblies with 3" screws, keeping bottom edge of (F) flush with bottom edges of (H) and the face of (F) flush with the front edges of (H).




122

Double Rocker

BUILDING STEPS 11 Tack some scrap blocks to the inside of rocker assemblies to assist in placing the splat assembly (see seat support detail illustration for placement). Cut two pieces of wood at 16 ¾" long and tack those to the outside of rocker assemblies as shown. These will aid in placing the armrest/back support assembly.

12 Cut your half-lap joints on support (E) at both ends, making sure there is exactly 48" of full 2 x 4 stock between them, then attach armrests with 1 ¼" screws from underneath (you can trim and sand the ends flush after assembly). Place the armrest/support assembly on top of your legs (J) and temporary braces. Make sure armrests overhang both inside faces of legs equally (about ¾") and there is 18" between back edge of legs and front edge of support (E). Attach armrests to top of legs with 2" screws.

13 Place splat assembly inside armrest/support assembly, resting it on the temporary blocks tacked to the inside of seat supports (H). After making sure everything lines up and is tight, drive 3" screws through the outside face of seat support (H) and into edges of both supports (B) and (C). Then drive 2" screws through the face of splats and into support (E) (two screws per splat).

14 Begin attaching slats (G) with 1 ¼" screws, beginning at the back of the chair by using one slat with one beveled edge and placing it tight to the splats. Work toward the front using ¼" spacers between all slats. Note on seat support detail illustration where the rest of the beveled slats are to be attached.

15 Attach braces (M) to the underside of armrests and outside of legs using 2" screws.




123

Double Rocker

BUILDING STEPS 16 Sand all edges and joints flush, disassemble, sand the rest of the surfaces of all components, apply finish, and then reassemble with glue and screws. Now you’re ready to rock!




124

Double Rocker

00 When you need to lay out curved lines, there are many different methods you may use. The following technique is one of the easiest and requires only that you know the piece’s final length and width, as well as a piece of hardboard or other pliable material that can easily be pushed or pulled to create a consistent curved line. This illustration uses the curved legs from the daytripper chair as an example, but you can use the concepts for any of the 20 projects featured in this section.








125

Dream Dog House PROJECT PLAN

Put together an abode that’s more than a basic shelter for your best bud This sturdy house will keep your best friend warm and dry, and you’ll have fun making it.

This plan will accommodate large dogs and small dogs alike. Its sturdy construction and quality materials will protect for years to come.

The design features a covered porch, overhung gabled main roof, and ve windows to allow for air circulation and provides a view of your furry friend’s whole domain. The raised oor and gabled main roof keeps loyal companions protected from rainy weather.

BUILD TIME

10 HRS

DIFFICULTY

COST





126

Dream Dog House WHAT YOU’LL NEED

CUTLIST (A - M) 65 ¼"

Cut from 4x4 stock

A

45

B

45

45

˚

˚

X 2

38 ½"

45

˚

˚

X 2

40 ½"

Cut from 2x4 stock

C

X 18

46"

D

X4

29"

E

X 4

13 ¾"

F

X 12

43"

G

X2

11"

H

X4

30"

I

X 4

16 ½"

J

X1

6"

K

X2

19 ¼"

L

X 2

21"

M


X1



127


CUTLIST (N - Z) 32"

Cut from 5 / 4x6 stock

N X8

16 ¾"

O X 8 4 ¼"

P X8

32" 5

/ 4x6 stock ripped to 2"

2"

Q

X2

28 ¼"

Cut from 2x4 stock

R

55

˚

X 10

55

˚

20 ¾"

S

X 4

40 ⅛"


55

˚

T

X4

44"

55

˚

U

X4

20"

55

˚

V

X2 22"

45

˚

W X1

45

˚

16 ¾"

X X3 27 ⅞"

55

˚

Y

X2

29 ¾"

45

˚

Z 45

˚



X1


128


CUTLIST (AA - II) 14"

Cut from 1x2 stock

AA

X 18

19 ½"

BB

X2 4"

Cut from 2x4 stock

CC

X4 36 ½"

DD

X 1 28"

Cut from 4x4 stock

EE

1 ½"

X2

24 ½"

38 ½"

Cut from 2x4 stock

FF

74

74

˚

˚

X1 36 ½"

58 ½"

Cut from 1 / 2" plywood

GG

28 ¼"

X 2

38 ½"

HH

21 ¼"

X 1

58 ½"

Cut from 5 / 4x6 stock ripped to 4 1 / 4"


II


4 ¼"


X2

129


SUPPLIES

TOOLS

WOOD STOCK

2X 1X 18X 4X 10X 2X 3X 3X

4x4x12' 4x4x6' 2x4x8' 2x4x10' 5 / 4 x6x8' 5 / 4 x6x10' 1x2x12' 4x8' plywood @ ½"


Table saw

Drill / driver

Hammer

Miter square

Measuring tape

HARDWARE

APPROX. 1 LB BOX

2" deck screws 3" deck screws 6" deck screws NAILS

Roofing nails (~100x) Optional: finishing nails (~30x) Nail gun OTHER

Shingles Roofing felt Metal drip edge

BUILD TIME CUTTING

3 HRS

ASSEMBLY

+

6 HRS


FINISHING

+

1

TOTAL

=

HRS


10 HRS


130

Dream Dog House ASSEMBLED VIEW

Notes:

All measurement s are approximate. Cut stock in the sequence of steps because many dimensions are directly measured and will vary based on actual stock and construction. Board dimensions can vary, so be sure to measure your stock.

TOP

~48"

~75"

FRONT

LEFT

~57"




131

Dream Dog House OVERVIEW OF STEPS

1: PLATFORM

2: WALL FRAMING

3: LEFT AND RIGHT WALL CLADDING

4: ROOF FRAMING

5: REMAINING CLADDING AND WINDOW TRIM



6: ROOFING


132

Dream Dog House DIMENSIONS & DIAGRAMS

STEP 1: PLATFORM

CUTLIST 65 ¼"

Cut from 4x4 stock

A

45

45

˚

˚

X 2

38 ½"

B

45

45

˚

˚

X2

40 ½"

Cut from 2x4 stock

C

X 18


PLATFORM




133


ASSEMBLY VIEW PLATFORM

TOP

BOTTOM

LEFT / RIGHT

FRONT / BACK

PLATFORM




134

Dream Dog House BUILDING

STEP 1: PLATFORM 1

2 TIP: Lay out and attach the first and last board so that they overhang about an inch. Then lay out the remaining middle boards and adjust for even spacing throughout before attaching these.

Arrange par ts (A) and ( B) as shown and fasten together with 6" wood screws.

Lay parts (C) on top of the foundation with about a ¼" gap between each board. The floorboards should overhang the foundation by 1" all the way around. Attach with 3" wood screws.

PLATFORM




135


STEP 2: WALL FRAMING

CUTLIST Cut from 2x4 stock 46"

30"

D

X4

I

X4

29"

16 ½"

E

J

X 4

6"

13 ¾"

K

F

X1

X 12

X 2

19 ¼" 43"

G

L

21"

11"

H

X2

X2

M X4

X1

WALL FRAMING




136


ASSEMBLY VIEW WALL FRAMING

TOP

RIGHT

FRONT

WALL FRAMING




137


ASSEMBLY VIEW BUILD SEQUENCE

A. RIGHT WALL

C. BACK WALL

B. LEFT WALL

D. FRONT WALL

WALL FRAMING




138


STEP 2: WALL FRAMING A. RIGHT WALL TOP

RIGHT

FRONT

3

4

5

Note:

Create a box with two parts each of (D) and (E). Fasten them together with 3" deck screws.

Insert part (G) so that it’s centered between parts (E). Fasten them together with 3" deck screws.

6

7

8

Insert part (F) into the wall assembly. See diagram for spacing.

Create two window boxes with parts (F) and (H). See diagram for spacing. When these are complete, insert them into the wall assembly as shown and attach with 3" deck screws.

Turn completed assembly 90˚ and position it on the floorboards as shown. It should be 1 ¾" from the right edge and ¾" from the back edge of the platform. Attach with 3" deck screws.

This wall assembly will be created flat on the ground, and then it will be lifted into place and attached to the floorboards.

Note : It is not centered within (G). Fasten with 3" deck screws.

WALL FRAMING




139


STEP 2: WALL FRAMING B. LEFT WALL TOP

LEFT

FRONT

9

Repeat Right Wall (all of Step 2A) to make an identical Left Wall.

WALL FRAMING




140


STEP 2: WALL FRAMING C. BACK WALL TOP

RIGHT

BACK

10

11

To tie the walls together, use three parts (I). Fasten with 3" deck screws.

Create a window box with parts (F) and (J). See diagram for spacing. When this is complete, insert it into the wall assembly as shown and attach with 3" deck screws.

WALL FRAMING




141


STEP 2: WALL FRAMING D. FRONT WALL TOP

RIGHT

12

FRONT

13

Position two parts (K) at the bottom corners of the left and right walls. Attach to the floorboards with 3" deck screws.

14

At the inside of each part (K ), place a part (L) vertically and attach with 3" deck screws.

Place part (M) on top of parts (L) and attach with 3" deck screws.

15

Finally, place part (I) at the top corners of the left and right walls. Fasten with 3" deck screws.

WALL FRAMING




142


STEP 3: LEFT AND RIGHT WALL CLADDING

CUTLIST 32"


N X8

16 ¾"

O X8 4 ¼"

P X8 32"

Q

2"

X2

LEFT AND RIGHT WALL CLADDING




143


ASSEMBLY VIEW LEFT AND RIGHT WALL CLADDING

TOP

INSIDE LEFT

OUTSIDE RIGHT

FRONT





144


STEP 3: LEFT AND RIGHT WALL CLADDING

RIGHT WALL

16

17

Starting at the front edge of the right wall, align part (N) so that it is flush with parts (E). Attach with 2" deck screws. It will be screwed into the wall framing behind.

Use screws at the top, middle, and bottom of each piece. Continue with parts (O) - (Q), making sure there are no gaps between them.

18

LEFT WALL

Repeat Right Wall to make an identical Left Wall.





145


STEP 4: ROOF FRAMING

CUTLIST 28 ¼"

Cut from 2x4 stock

R

55

˚

X 10

55

˚

20 ¾"

S

X4

ROOF FRAMING




146


ASSEMBLY VIEW ROOF FRAMING

TOP

LEFT

FRONT

ROOF FRAMING




147


STEP 4: ROOF FRAMING 19

20

21

Join two parts (R) together as shown using 3" deck screws. Repeat this twice so that you have three assemblies.

To tie these three assemblies together, use parts (S ). Refer to the diagram for exact placement. Fasten together with 2" deck screws. You’ll need to toenail the screws.

When the roof framing assembly is complete, have a friend help you lift it and place it on top of the walls. It should be flush with the front and back walls.

22

Use 3" deck screws to fasten the roof framing assembly to the walls, starting by securing it to parts (R) and then to parts (S) for added stability.

ROOF FRAMING




148


STEP 5: FRONT AND BACK CLADDING AND WINDOW TRIM

CUTLIST

FRONT AND BACK CLADDING


Cut from 5 / 4x6 stock 40 ⅛"

27 ⅞"

55

55

˚

T

˚

Y X 4

X2

29 ¾"

44"

45

˚

55

Z

˚

U

X4

45

˚

X1

20"

WINDOW TRIM

55

˚

V

X2

Cut from 1x2 stock 14"

22"

45

AA

˚

W 45

˚

X1

19 ½"

BB

16 ¾"

X 18

X2

X X3

REMAINING CLADDING AND WINDOW TRIM




149


ASSEMBLY VIEW FRONT AND BACK CLADDING AND WINDOW TRIM FRONT VIEW OF BACK CLADDING

LEFT SIDE WITH WINDOW TRIM

FRONT VIEW OF FRONT CLADDING

FRONT VIEW WITH WINDOW TRIM

TOP VIEW WITH WINDOW TRIM





150


STEP 5: FRONT AND BACK CLADDING AND WINDOW TRIM

BACK WALL

FRONT WALL

WINDOW TRIM

23

24

Starting at the left edge of the back wall, attach part (T) with 2" deck screws. It will be screwed into the wall framing behind. Use screws at the top, middle, and bottom of each piece.

Continue with parts (U ) - (X ), making sure there aren’t any gaps between them.

25

26

Starting at the left edge of the front wall, attach part (T) with 2" deck screws. It will be screwed into the wall framing behind. Use screws at the top, middle, and bottom of each piece.

Continue with parts (U), ( Y), and (Z), making sure there are no gaps between them.

27

28

To frame each window on the side walls, you’ll need four parts (AA). The window on the back wall requires two parts (AA) and two parts (BB).

Place each trim piece so that it is flush with the inside edge of the window cutout and attach. For a clean look, finishing nails are recommended, but 2" screws will work as well.

Tip: Test-fit all pieces prior to attaching so you know the fit. If the last piece extends, measure the overhang and rip to fit.





151


STEP 6: ROOFING

CUTLIST Cut from ½" plywood

Cut from 2x4 stock

58 ½"

4"

GG

CC

X4 36 ½" 28 ¼"

DD

X1

Cut from 4x4 stock X2

28"

EE

1 ½"

X2

24 ½"

5 / 4x6 stock ripped 1 to 4 / 4" 38 ½"

HH Cut from 2x4 stock 38 ½"

FF

74

74

˚

21 ¼"

˚

X 1 36 ½"

X1

58 ½"

II

4 ¼"

X2

ROOFING




152


ASSEMBLY VIEW ROOFING TOP (shown without roofing)

FRONT (shown without roofing)

LEFT (shown without roofing)

ROOFING




153


STEP 6: ROOFING 29

30

ROOF SUPPORTS

Position part (DD) on the front wall. The bottom edge should be 27" from the floorboards, and it should be centered vertically on the wall. Attach with 2" deck screws.

Join two parts (R) together as shown using 3" deck screws.

31

32

33

In the center of each part (R), attach part (CC) with 3" deck screws. Then attach this assembly to the back wall as shown. The top edges of parts (R) should be flush with the other roof framing you’ve already installed.

Repeat the previous two steps for the front wall.

Remove the second-to-last floorboard by unscrewing its fasteners and setting it aside. Attach part (EE) to each end of this floorboard 2" in from the edge with 3" wood screws.

34

35

To tie the parts (EE) together, use part (FF). It should fit into the notches and be attached with 3" deck screws.

Lift this assembly back into place and reattach it with the rest of the floorboards.

ROOFING




154


STEP 6: ROOFING 36

37

ROOF

Place part (GG) onto the roof supports and attach with 2" deck screws.

Place part (II) onto the ends of the roof supports and attach with 2" deck screws.

38

39

Repeat the previous two steps for the other side of the roof.

Place part (HH) on top of parts (DD) and (FF). Butt it up against the front wall, then attach to the supports below using 2" deck screws.

40

SHINGLES Install roofing felt, metal drip edge, and shingles of your choice. Follow manufacturers’ instructions for each component, and use appropriate roofing nails.



ROOFING


155

Freestanding Hammock FINAL STEPS

FINISHING

YellaWood ® brand products provide the best available pressure treated lumber protection against rot, fungal decay and termites. Sanding edges is recommended to reduce snags and splintering. At a minimum, we recommend annual application of a water repellent. You can also paint or stain it if you prefer.

41


CONGRATULATIONS. ENJOY YOUR BEAUTIFUL DREAM DOG HOUSE !

FINISHING




156

Freestanding Hammock PROJECT PLAN

Construct a sleek and sturdy freestanding hammock and start extending outdoor downtime. The simple geometry and clean lines of this project add aesthetic value to any yard. The inset platform floats above the ground and allows the ebb and flow of wind to gently sway its occupants. The hammock features strong joinery utilizing 4x4 wood stock for the wall columns, has braces at the corners for added stability, and takes advantage of rope connections to gracefully suspend the bed platform.

You can customize this piece as little or as much as you’d like – adding a simple pad on the platform makes it ready to enjoy, or you can dress it up with curtain rods and fabric. Add a rug below the platform and pillows for a comfy, home-away-from-home appeal.

BUILD TIME

13 HRS

DIFFICULTY

COST





157

Freestanding Hammock WHAT YOU’LL NEED

CUTLIST

A - C: Cut from 4x4 stock

102"

A

X 22 88"

X2

B 24"

C

45°

45°

X8 72"

D - E: Cut from 2x6 stock

D

X2 60"

E

F: Cut from 2x4 stock

Note: The notches call for a 7 / 8" x 7 / 8" cutout, but measure the thickness of your 5 / 4 stock and adjust the cut so that the board will sit flush.

X2

F

X 2 1 4" 5 /

G: Cut from 2x6 stock

G

1 4" 5 /

1 2" 10 /

X4 70¾"

H: Cut from 5 / 4 x6 stock

H

X 11

I: Rope

I

approx. 40ft




158

Freestanding Hammock WHAT YOU’LL NEED

SUPPLIES

TOOLS

WOOD STOCK 26x 4x4x10' 5x

2x6x8'

1x

2x4x12'*

6x

5 / 4 x6x12'

*OR

2x


Table saw

Drill/driver

Miter square

Measuring tape

2x4x8’

HARDWARE 1 LB BOX 1 / 4" Drill

2" Wood screws (to attach decking planks) 6" Torx-head wood screws (to attach structure)

bit

~ 30 EACH 16-gauge 2" nails

Nail gun

OTHER 1x 4x

3 / 4 " or

1" x 40' rope steel conduit hanger**

Socket or crescent wrench

1 / 2"

Forstner bit

3 / 4 " or 1/ 2 " stainless

** use 3 / 4 " or 1" rope with corresponding conduit hanger to make sure rope fits very tightly within the hanger. Select the rope and hanger whose load rating suits your needs.

BUILD TIME CUTTING

3 HRS

ASSEMBLY

+

8 HRS


FINISHING

+

2

TOTAL

=

HRS


13 HRS


159

Freestanding Hammock ASSEMBLED VIEW




160

Freestanding Hammock DIMENSIONS & DIAGRAMS

TOP

Notes: All measurement s are approximate. Cut stock in the correct sequence of steps because many dimensions are directly measured and will vary based on actual stock and construction. Board dimensions can vary, so be sure to measure your stock.

LEFT

RIGHT

~102"

~102"

~102"

BOTTOM




161

Freestanding Hammock OVERVIEW OF STEPS

1: RIGHT WALL

2: LEFT WALL

3: BRACES

4: PLATFORM

5: ROPE SUSPENSION

6: FINISHING & ACCESSORIES




162


STEP 1: RIGHT WALL

CUTLIST

4x4 STOCK

102"

A

(12x)

31/ 2"

88" (2x)

B

31/ 2"


FIRST WALL




163


ASSEMBLY VIEW RIGHT WALL

TOP

FRONT

RIGHT

FIRST WALL




164

Freestanding Hammock BUILDING

STEP 1: RIGHT WALL 1

2

3

First, cut boards (A) and (B) using a miter saw. To make a part with two clean faces, cut 1" off one end, then measure and cut to 102" at the other end. Lay out two parallel parts (A) on the ground about 102" apart.

At one end of the parallel boards, place part (A) on top of them, keeping the edges flush. This will act as a cross-member. Pre-drill first, then screw into the other (A) boards using 6" screws.

Use a miter square to ensure angles are at 90°. Repeat Step 1, Part 2 at the other end. The four pieces should form a square.

4

5

6

Next, add another part (A) next to the one already on the ground. Use a scrap piece of 4x4 as a spacer. Pre-drill and attach all the parts with screws. Then repeat on the other side.

Add four more parts (A) on top of the assembly. These four parts are positioned directly over the four parts (A) on the ground. Pre-drill and attach all the parts with screws.*

You’ll now attach vertical cross-members. First, take two parts (A) and attach them as shown. Pre-drill and use screws to attach them.

7 *TIP

Alternating screw patter ns is recommended to avoid the intersection of existing screws.

Now, attach two parts (B) at the opposite end. These rest on the cross-members from Step 1, Part 2. You will now have the right wall assembled.

FIRST WALL




165


STEP 2: LEFT WALL

CUTLIST

4x4 STOCK

102" (10x)

A

31/ 2"

SECOND WALL




166


ASSEMBLY VIEW LEFT WALL

TOP

FRONT

RIGHT

SECOND WALL




167


STEP 2: LEFT WALL 8

9

10

AXIS OF ROTATION

To create the left wall, repeat S tep 1, Parts 1-5 (see pg. 122). It will be identical to the right wall, except with no vertical beams.

Now, tip the right wall assembly 90° toward the left wall assembly. Part (B) should be on the ground now.

AXIS OF ROTATION

Tip the left wall assembly 90° toward the right wall assembly. This left wall assembly should line up with the crossmembers. Pre-drill and use 6" screws to attach the left wall assembly to the right wall assembly.

SECOND WALL




168


STEP 3: BRACES

CUTLIST

4x4 STOCK

24" (8x)

45°

C

45°

31/ 2"

BRACES




169


ASSEMBLY VIEW BRACES

TOP

FRONT

RIGHT

BRACES




170


STEP 3: BRACES 11

12

13

Cut parts (C) using a miter saw. At each corner of the structure, there will be two braces (C).

Each brace will join the vertical posts (A) to the horizontal cross-members (A). Attach them using 6" screws into the 4x4 beams at an angle. Use 2 screws at each end, for a total of 4 screws per (C) part.

There are a total of 8 braces to complete the structure.

BRACES




171


STEP 4: PLATFORM

CUTLIST 2x6 STOCK

D

(2x)

51/ 4"

60"

/ " N O T C H 7 / 8" 7 8

E

(2x)

/ 8" N O T C H 7 / 8" 7

72"

51/ 4"

2x4 STOCK

57"

F

(2x)

51/ 4"

2x6 STOCK

(4x)

31/ 2"

51/ 4"

21/ 2" 21/ 2"

G

1" HOLE

5 x6 STOCK 4 /

3 4 " 70 /

(11x)

H

51/ 4" PLATFORM




172


ASSEMBLY VIEW PLATFORM TOP

FRONT

LEFT

BOTTOM

PLATFORM




173


STEP 4: PLATFORM 14

15

16

Cross-cut boards (D), (E) to the proper dimensions, noting their 45º angle on each end. They require a recessed lip along their lengths. Using a table saw, 7 8" x 7/ 8 " notch into the inside edge cut a / along the top.

Use a nail gun and tack parts (D) and (E) together, and then attach with 2" screws.

Then, cut parts (G) and drill a 1" hole in each part. Attach to the bottom of the platform using 2" screws.

17

18

To complete the frame for the platform, evenly space the two parts (F) to the two parts (E) and attach, ensuring the tops of (F) are flush with the bottom of the notch. Pre-drill and use 2" screws to hold them together.

Next, attach the eleven boards (H). They rest in the shelf you made in parts (D) and (E). At both ends of the board, screw into parts (D). Also screw into supports (F).

TOP VIEW

PLATFORM




174


STEP 5: SUSPENSION ROPES

CUTLIST

ROPE (APPROX. 10' PER SECTION)

~ 480"

SUSPENSION ROPES




175


ASSEMBLY VIEW SUSPENSION ROPES TOP

FRONT

LEFT

BOTTOM

SUSPENSION ROPES




176


STEP 5: SUSPENSION ROPES 19

20

At each corner of the platform, mark the 1 2 " x 2 1/ 2 " from the center of a circle at 2 / corner, and drill holes using a 1" Forstner bit. These holes will align with the holes you drilled in parts (G) to accommodate the rope.

21

Take a scrap piece of sandpaper and smooth the edges of all holes to prevent the rope from fraying.

To suspend the platform from the structure, you’ll need a 10' section of rope at each corner. Tie a stopper knot in one end (see diagram), then thread it through the holes in the platform from the bottom. Do this for all corners.

22

23

24

(Close-up of how to tie a stopper knot.)

Take the other end of the rope and wrap it around the horizontal supports (A) three times.

Using your conduit hanger, secure the end of the rope to the horizontal support (A). Attach hanger first with a screw, and then pull rope through. Repeat this step for the other corners.

25

Place a level on the platform and fine-tune level in all directions. Once it is, tighten the nut on the hanger the rest of the way.

SUSPENSION ROPES




177



YellaWood ® brand products provide the best available pressure treated lumber protection against rot, fungal decay and termites. Sanding edges is recommended to reduce snags and splintering. At a minimum, we recommend annual application of a water repellent. You can also paint or stain it if you prefer.

26

27


Place the mattress pad of your choice onto the platform and decorate with pillows, blankets, and even curtains if you wish. (You can spray fabrics with Scotchgard to add a layer of protection from outdoor elements.)

CONGRATULATIONS. CONGRATULA TIONS. ENJOY YOUR BEAUTIFUL NEW FREE STANDING HAMMOCK!





178

Garden Bench

This sturdy garden bench is so simple to build you can have it completed in less than a day – including sanding and finishing. Made entirely from dimensional lumber and with only simple cuts and butt joints, you can build it on Saturday and be enjoying it Sunday morning. The most complicated aspect of this bench is laying out and cutting the arms – and even that is a simple, straightforward task. Here we cut and sanded a round arm profile, but feel free to play with the design and use a couple of 45-degree cuts to “round” the front of the arms… or whatever suits your tastes.

BUILD TIME Cutting parts: 2 hours Assembly: 1 hour Finishing: 2 – 3 hours Total: 5 – 6 hours




179

Garden Bench

A

TOOLS *Note: Drill pilot holes for all screws

X4 Miter saw (or circular or hand saw) Jigsaw Drill/driver 18 " drill bit Clamps (2) Damp rag to wipe up excess glue

(6) 1 x 6 x 8' (5) 2 x 4 x 8' (1) 2 x 6 x 8' 2" deck screws 2 ½" deck screws 3" deck screws Waterproof wood glue

X2 D

X2 E

CUT LIST (4) (2) (2) (2) (4) (3) (3) (3)

X2 C

SUPPLIES

A B C D E F G H

B

1 ½ x 3 ½ x 23 ½" 1 ½ x 3 ½ x 23" ¾ x 5 ½ x 25" 1 ½ x 3 ½ x 54" 1 ½ x 3 ½ x 20" ¾ x 5 ½ x 54" 1 ½ x 5 ½ x 21 ⅜" ¾ x 5 ½ x 51"

X4

F

X3 G

X3 H

X3




180

Garden Bench

G

H

D

C B

H

E

H

F F

A F D

C E

A

Back support detail 1½"

3¼" 90

A

Arm detail ¾"

o

6" bevel cut to match seat back 15"

21 3 8 " 14"

4½"

r= 2¾"

5½"




181

Garden Bench

Front view & dimensions

60 ½" 51"

24¼" 16"

57"




182

Garden Bench

BUILDING STEPS 01 Cut the seat frame components (D and E) according to the dimensions on the cut list.

02 Arrange these pieces on your assembly table, keeping the outside of the frame ends flush with the ends of the front and back frame. Drill pilot holes and attach with 3" deck screws. You may find it helpful to clamp these pieces together as you attach them.

03 Measure and mark the center of the seat frame front and back and place the two middle stretchers so that the mark is centered within a 1 ½" gap between stretchers. This is where the middle back support will be sandwiched, so you may want to place a piece of scrap 2x stock centered on your center mark as you attach the stretchers with 3" deck screws.

04 Cut three seat slats (F) and place them on your seat frame assembly. Place the rear slat first, starting it 7" from the back of the seat frame. Place ¼" spacers between the slats, which should leave the front slat overhanging the front of the seat frame by about 1". Drill pilot holes and attach the slats with glue and 2" screws.

05 Lay out and cut three back supports (G) according to the detail drawing on the illustration. Make your cuts with a jigsaw or circular saw and use a straightedge guide if needed.




183

Garden Bench

BUILDING STEPS 06 Cut the three back slats (H) to length. Place your back supports on their back edges on your assembly table and place one slat so the top edge is flush with the top of the supports. The ends of the slat should be flush with the outside edges of your supports. Measure and mark the center of your slat and center the middle support there, again keeping the top edges flush. Attach with glue and 2" screws. Repeat with the remaining two back slats, keeping ¼" spacing between all slats.

TIP: If you like, rout a 1 8 " or ¼" roundover edge on the front seat slat and the top back slat before proceeding to the next step.

07 Slide the back supports into place inside the seat frame assembly, sandwiching the middle support between the two middle stretchers. Attach with 3" screws through the frame ends and stretchers and into the back supports.

08 Cut the four legs (A) and two arm supports (B) according to the dimensions on the cut list.




184

Garden Bench

BUILDING STEPS 09 Lay an arm support on a pair of legs, keeping the tops and outside edges flush and attach with glue and 2 ½" screws. Repeat for other leg assembly.

10 Clamp the leg assemblies to the seat frame, keeping the arm supports facing inward, outer edges of the legs flush with the front and back of the seat frame, and the top of the seat slats 16" up from the bottom of the legs. Fasten with glue and 2 ½" screws.

11 Cut two arms (C) according to the length on the cut list. Refer to detail drawing to lay out the shape and cut with jigsaw.

12 Place the arms on top of the arm supports, keeping the back of the arms flush with the back edges of the back legs. The notch should fit snugly against the seat back and the front of the arm should overhang the front of the arm support by about ¾". Fasten with glue and 2" screws.

13 Sand all surfaces and break all edges with sandpaper and apply a weatherproof finish.




185

Hose Holder

This sturdy garden hose holder is both functional and flexible. You can stow up to 100 feet of hose on the main body, and extra nozzles, sprinkler heads or other accessories on the two handy shelves. The flexibility comes from the ability to set the post on a metal holder (allowing you to store it inside during winter) or set the post in concrete. You may also forego the post altogether and mount the holder directly to your house, shed or fence — wherever is most handy for you. The plan is easily customizable, as you can play with the design and go for a more rounded appearance, rather than the blend of 45 and 22 ½ degree cuts shown here. You could also drill a hole through the post and feed your hose through that, concealing the connection to your home’s hose bib.

BUILD TIME Cutting parts: 2 hours Assembly: 1 – 2 hours Finishing: 1 hour Total: 5 – 6 hours (depending on glue set-up time)




186

Hose Holder

TOOLS

A X1

Miter saw Table saw Drill/driver Router with ¼" chamfer or roundover bit 24" bar clamps Damp rag to wipe up excess glue

B

TIP: To cut the dadoes, a dado blade setup on your table saw is easiest. If you do not have one, you can set your miter saw blade to a depth of ¾" and make several passes within your layout marks, then clean out the waste with a sharp chisel.

X2 C

X4 D

SUPPLIES (1) 4 x 4 x 4' post* (2) 1 x 6 x 10' Scrap piece of 1 x 8 at least 15" long 1 ¼", 2", and 3" deck screws Post anchor Waterproof glue Cement mix *If setting post into the ground or concrete, cut post to at least 60" to leave at least 48" above ground.

X4 E X 23

F

CUT LIST A B C D E F

(1) (2) (4) (4) (23) (2)

3 ½ x 3 ½ x 48" ¾ x 5 ½ x 18" ¾ x 5 ½ x 17" ¾ x 5 ½ x 14" ¾ x 1 ¼ x 9 ½" ¾ x 7 x 7"



X2


187

Hose Holder

EXPLODED VIEW

25˚ chamfers ¼" chamfer around all edges of both (C/B/C) assemblies

F (2) E C Dadoes ¾" wide and deep

B

C D

A D

C

B

C

(1)

(1) F

E Attach slats (E) on bottom of both sides first, then attach top middle, then fill in the rest in sequence with ¼" spacing and 2" screws

Attach (F) on both sides with glue and 2" screws angled through shelf and into post from underneath




188

Hose Holder

ADDITIONAL VIEW Inside support (D) detail 1"

25˚ chamfers

r = 4 1/2" x

x

4"

x

X

X

x

B

6"

D

14"

9½" F X

X x

¼" spacing

x

x

x

9"

between slats

Seam from edge gluing two 1x6 boards, centered in finished piece (D) X= 3" screws for mounting to post

26"

E X=

1¼" screws for mounting to panels (B) & (C)

F

Dadoes- ¾" wide and deep

48"

A Center and side panels detail 22½˚ angles {measured from top of {B}} 45˚angles measured from top of (B), intersecting first angled cut at noted measurement 2¾"

2½"

2½"

¼" spacing

C

B

C

5½"

5½"

18"

45˚ angles measured from bottom of (C)

2¾" 5½" MORE PLANS AT www.yellawood.co m



189

Hose Holder

BUILDING STEPS 01 Cut inner supports (D) according to dimensions on cut list. Edge glue and clamp them in pairs and let the glue set fully.

02 On your miter saw, cut 45° chamfers on the top of your post (A) and cut two ¾" dadoes to a depth of ¾". See illustration for layout.

03 Cut the center (B) and side (C) panels, place them together to simulate two assemblies and lay out the angle cuts according to the illustration. Make the cuts by setting your miter saw to 22 ½° and 45° accordingly. Rout your chamfers or roundovers on all edges, inside and out.

04 Once the glue has set on your inner support assemblies, rip them to 9" wide. Trim an equal amount from both sides, leaving the glue seam in the center of the panels. This will make centering the supports on the center panels and post much easier. Mark the radius according to the dimensions on the illustration, cut and sand smooth.

05 Cut several ¼"-thick spacer blocks from scrap ¾" stock.




190

Hose Holder

BUILDING STEPS 06 Drill pilot holes on inner support assemblies (D), noting locations on illustration. Attach one set of inner support and side panels with ¼" spacing to one center assembly with glue and 1 ¼" screws. Repeat for the other (B/C/D) assembly.

07 Attach one finished (B/C/D) assembly to post with glue and 3" screws, with top of (B) centered 4" from top of post.

08 Cut slats (E) and drill pilot holes 3 8 " in from edge and centered along width.

09 Attach slats to back panel (D). Start with the bottom slats on both sides, then the top slat, and then fill in the rest of the slats with ¼" spacing. Drill pilot holes into edge of (D) to avoid splitting. This will leave an approximate ¼" space at the face of the slats (E) and a narrower space along the backside where they attach to part (D).

10 Using the same techniques and order (two bottom pieces, then top, then the rest), attach the slats to the front (B/C/D) assembly.




191

Hose Holder

BUILDING STEPS 11 Cut the two shelves (F) to size from your scrap 1 x 8.

12 Glue and screw the shelves into their matching dadoes on the post. Drive screws at an angle from underneath the shelves so they are hidden.

13 Apply a waterproof finish and when dry, mount your post into a post holder, concrete or wherever/however you wish to mount it. Also consider purchasing a decorative post cap as an alternative to chamefering the top of the 4x4.




192

Hummingbird Feeder

Attract hummingbirds to your yard and watch them hover in mid-air as they sip from this clever little feeder. Hang it near flowering plants and shrubs and watch them supplement that nectar with the sugary mixture in a feeder you made yourself. Easily made, this feeder features a small plastic bottle feeder and two narrow slots that allow you to see when your mixture has run out or needs to be changed. The enclosed body of the feeder also protects the mixture from the sun’s rays, which experts say will quickly spoil the feeding solution.

BUILD TIME Cutting parts: 1 hour Assembly: 1 – 2 hours (maybe longer, depending on glue set time) Finishing: 1 hour Total: 3 hours

Due to the small nature of these parts, it is highly recommended you DO NOT try to use a circular saw to cut these parts. Use extreme caution when using power tools to fabricate these small pieces.




193

Hummingbird Feeder

TOOLS

A

Table saw Miter saw (or hand saw) Jig saw Brad nailer Drill/Driver 38 " Dia. drill bit at least 3" long Router and ¼" chamfer bit (optional) Damp rag to wipe up excess glue

X4

B X4

C

SUPPLIES One piece of lumber measuring 1 x 6 x 4' ¼" dowel ¾" galvanized brads 1" galvanized brads #10 galvanized or stainless steel ¼" screw eye 8 oz. capacity water bottle (no more than 1 ¾" in diameter and 6 ¼" long – not counting feeding tube) Waterproof glue Fishing line

X1

D

X1

CUT LIST A B C D E F G

(4) (4)

x 2 ½ x 7" ½ x ½ x 5 ½"

(1) (1) (1) (1) (1)

x 3 x 3" ¾ x 5 x 5" ¾ x 3 x 3" ¾ 2 x 2" ¼ x 5"

3 / 8

3 / 8

E

X1 F X1

G



X1


194

Hummingbird Feeder

¼" Screw eye

¼" chamfers

D

F

B

A A

¼"

2" A G

1¼"

1"

A " pilot holes for finishline 1 16

C




195

Hummingbird Feeder

BUILDING STEPS 01 Cut a 15" piece of 1 x 6 and rip it into two pieces 2 ½" wide. Then, set your saw’s fence so that the blade is centered in the thickness of your ¾" stock and resaw those two pieces in half, so you end up with four pieces approximately 3 / 8" thick by 2 ½" wide by 7" long. From those pieces, cut the four walls (A) and the bottom piece (C).

02 Stack two of the wall pieces together and drill two 3 8 " holes, one about ¾" from the bottom and the other about 2" from the top, along the centerline. Draw pencil lines between the outside edges of those two holes on both pieces, and cut that 3 / 8"-wide slot with a jig saw equipped with a thin, fine-toothed blade. These are the slots that allow you to see how much feeding solution is in the bottle.

03 From the remaining stock of your lumber, cut the top (D) and cap (E) to the dimensions on the cut list. Use your router and ¼" chamfer bit to cut a chamfer around the perimeter of both pieces.

04 From the smaller piece of lumber, cut the corners (B). Set your table saw’s blade to 45° and carefully rip four pieces no wider than ½". Crosscut to 5 ½" long.

05 Center and drill a hole at least 1 8 " larger than the cap in the bottom piece (C).




196

Hummingbird Feeder

BUILDING STEPS 06 Glue the corner pieces (B) to the wall sections (A), noting how the wall edges lap in the illustration. Keep the corner pieces flush with the bottom of your wall sections.

07 Once your glue has set, fit the wall sections together and drive ¾" brads through the walls and into the corner pieces. You may want to use masking tape or rubber bands to keep the sections together as you do this.

08 Place the bottom piece (C) on the bottom of the box and attach with glue and ¾" brads, driving the brads into the corner pieces.

09 Center the cap (E) on the top of the roof (D) and attach with glue and 1" brads. Center the lock block (F) on the bottom of this assembly and attach in the same manner.

10 Mark the center point for the ¼" dowel key on the feeder wall as noted on the illustration. Insert the roof assembly and drill a 9 / 32" hole through one wall, the lock block and out through the other wall. Be careful to keep your drill perpendicular so the two holes on the feeder walls line up properly.




197

Hummingbird Feeder

BUILDING STEPS 11 Cut the dowel to proper length and drill a 1 / 16" hole through one end. Attach an approximate 12" length of fishing line to the dowel and the other end to the eye hook. This will keep the dowel key from becoming lost.

12 Drill a 1 8 " hole about ½" deep in the center of your roof cap and screw in the eye hook.

13 Fill your bottle with a feeding mixture, place the feeder over the top and screw the feeding tube in place through the hole in the feeder bottom. Invert, place the roof on top and insert dowel key.

14 Apply a waterproofing finish according to manufacturer recommendations. Hang in place and enjoy your bird watching.

TIP: You can purchase ready-made hummingbird food mixtures or you can make your own by boiling water and adding white sugar in a 4:1 ratio (water to sugar). Add food coloring if you wish to make the mixture more visible through the slots in the feeder walls.




198

Multi-Purpose Stand

This easy-to-build stand can perform many duties around your yard. With a plastic or terra cotta plant saucer placed on top, it can be used as a bird bath or even a Zen sand garden. While tall plants such as ferns or small palm trees would be too top-heavy for this stand, cascading plants such as geraniums, spider plants or certain types of ivies are perfectly suited for it.





199

Multi-Purpose Stand

TOOLS

A

Circular saw or miter saw Jig saw Drill/driver ¼" and 1 8 " drill bits 1 ½" and ¾" forstner or spade bit Socket set Clamps

X3

B

X3

SUPPLIES (2) 2 x 4 x 8' 18 " Hardboard scrap at least 2 ½" wide by 18" long (6) ¼ x 4 ½" galvanized lag bolts and washers 3" deck screws Weatherproof glue Damp rag to wipe up excess glue

C X3 D

CUT LIST A B C D E

(3) (3) (3) (3) (3)

X3 1 ½ x 3 x 11" 1 ½ x 3 x 18" 1 ½ x 1 ½ x 18" 1 ½ x 3 x 10” 1 1 8 x ¾ x 18" ( 8 " hardboard)


E


X3


200

Multi-Purpose Stand

16" dia. flower pot saucer

D

D D C B

C B

C B

A E

A



A


201

Multi-Purpose Stand

Center upright assembly (top view)

Bowl support assembly (top view)

B

D

B E D

B

Cut and sand profile diameter slightly larger than bottom diameter of saucer D

3" 30° Center upright (end view)

B

Bowl support detail 3"

/ 8"

1

½"

¼"

Cut and sand profile to fit saucer bottom profile, diameter and depth 3" D 1½" radius

C

B

Foot detail

2½" 1½" radius A

3"

2¾"


11"



202

Multi-Purpose Stand

BUILDING STEPS 01 Cut all parts to length first, according to dimensions on cut list. Then cut 30° bevels on both sides of one end of each foot (A) and bowl support (D) and bevel-rip each center upright (B) along both sides of one edge. To make these bevel cuts, tilt your table saw’s blade to 30° and position the fence so the bevels meet in the middle of the stock. To make the spline slots in the center uprights (B), flip the uprights so the bevel point is on the table and one face is tight against the fence. Make sure the blade will cut at least ¼" to accommodate the splines (E). Once all bevel cuts are made, rip parts A, B and D to 3" wide and parts C to 1 ½" square.

02 Dry assemble the center uprights (B) and splines (E) to make sure everything fits flush and tight, then disassemble and apply glue to slots. Place one spline in one bevel of each upright, then bring the parts together starting at the bottom and pushing the joint together all the way up. Clamp the assembly together until dry – strap clamps work best for this step, but you can rig standard grip clamps to perform the same function.

03 Use your 1 ½" and ¾" forstner or spade bits to cut the concaves in the feet (A) and bowl supports (D) as shown in detail drawings. Clamp scrap pieces of lumber to the edges of parts where drilling, as the center points of some of these holes fall on the edges of the pieces. For the bottom concave of the feet (A) draw a straight line from the top of the ¾" hole to the beveled edge and cut with a jig saw. For the bowl support (D) profile, measure whatever bowl you choose and match the profile as closely as possible by drilling holes, cutting straight lines and sanding where necessary – using the same principles and steps as above. On the underside of the feet (A), mark 1 ½" back from the bevel point and drill a ¾" countersink about ½" deep, then clamp to center upright assembly and drill a ¼" pilot hole through the center of your countersink and into the center uprights (B). MORE PLANS AT www.yellawood.co m



203

Multi-Purpose Stand

BUILDING STEPS 04 Attach center upright assembly to the feet (A) with glue, lag bolts and washers.

05 Clamp thin uprights (C) in place, with a 2 ½" space between them and the center uprights, and repeat drilling procedure and attach with glue, lag bolts and washers.

06 Clamp bowl supports (D) in place, lining up their bevel points with the bevel points of the center upright assembly. Drill 8 " pilot holes through the top of bowl supports and into the center of thin uprights. Remove clamps, apply glue to the tops of the thin uprights and attach with 3" deck screws.

07 Break all edges and sand all surfaces smooth and apply weatherproofing finish of your choice. Place bowl in supports (you may want to secure it with some dabs of silicone adhesive along bowl supports) and you can now find a myriad of uses for your new stand!




204

Picnic Table

This plan makes a table that features separate benches for unencumbered leg room and ample seating for six to eight adults. The half-lap joints on the legs are easy to create and add a touch of elegance. An easy weekend project, this set will soon become the central gathering point for your backyard. This plan calls for a table six feet wide, but you can play with the dimensions until you come up with the length and depth you want. Keep the leg lengths the same, but be aware that a table much bigger than this may require use of 2 x 6 legs, and longer benches may require more support – perhaps just another set of legs, braces and cleats in the middle.

BUILD TIME Cutting parts: 1 – 2 hours Assembly: 1 – 2 hours Finishing: 3 – 5 hours Total: 5 – 9 hours *Note: Drill pilot holes for all screws.




205

Picnic Table

TABLE A

DIMENSIONS 30" h x 72" l x 34 ¼" w

X6

TOOLS Miter saw or circular saw Drill/driver 3 8 drill bit at least 5" long 1" dia. spade or Forstner bit #8 countersink bit (or size appropriate for the screws you are using) Socket wrench Combination square Wood chisel Damp rag to wipe up excess glue

B X2

C X4

SUPPLIES (3) 2 x 6 x 12' (3) 2 x 4 x 8' (4) ¼" x 3 ½" galvanized carriage bolts (2) ¼" x 4 ½" galvanized carriage bolts (6) ¼" galvanized cut washers and nuts 3" deck screws 4" deck screws Waterproof wood glue

D X2

TABLE CUT LIST Part

Qty.

A Top Slats B Cleats C Legs D Braces

6 2 4 2


Size 2 x 6 x 72" 2 x 4 x 33" 2 x 4 x 36" 2 x 4 x 24"



206

Picnic Table

BENCHES (2) A

DIMENSIONS 18" h x 72" l x 11 ¼" w

X4

TOOLS Miter saw or circular saw Drill/driver 3 8 drill bit at least 5" long 1" dia. spade or Forstner bit #8 countersink bit (or size appropriate for the screws you are using) Socket wrench Combination square Wood chisel Damp rag to wipe up excess glue

B X4

C X8

SUPPLIES (FOR 2 BENCHES) (2) 2 x 6 x 12' (3) 2 x 4 x 8' (8) ¼" x 3 ½" galvanized carriage bolts (4) ¼" x 4 ½" galvanized carriage bolts (12) ¼" galvanized cut washers and nuts 3" deck screws 4" deck screws Waterproof wood glue

D X4

BENCH CUT LIST Part

Qty.

A Top Slats B Cleats C Legs D Braces

4 4 8 4


Size 2 x 6 x 72" 2 x 4 x 11 ½" 2 x 4 x 18 ¼" 2 x 4 x 15 ½"



207

Picnic Table

EXPLODED VIEW

Table exploded view

A

A

A

A

A

A

o

45 cut 1" from outside edge

B 38

" spacing between

1/ 4

o

slats

C D

C

45 o cuts

D

38 o

B

28"

C

C

38 o angle cuts o

38 angle cuts

Benches exploded view

A

A B

o

24

¼ " spacing between

o

24

slats C C D

1 16 /2" o

24 angle cuts




208

Picnic Table

BUILDING STEPS 01 Cut all pieces to dimension according to cut lists. For all top slats (A), simply cut two 6-foot lengths from each 12-foot piece of 2 x 6. You’ll want to square both mill-cut ends by trimming ¼" or less from each end before making your measurements and cutting them in half (you should have enough to end up with two 6-foot lengths). On the cleats (B), trim the bottom outside corners off with a simple 45° cut 1" in from the outside edges. For the legs (C), note that lengths are measured from the long points to the short points of the cuts. For the braces (D), lengths are measured from the long points of the opposite 45° angles. *See illustration for more detail.

*Note: The steps for building the table and benches are exactly the same. The following instructions are for both assemblies, with differences in measurements noted.

02 The following assembly steps are identical for both benches and the table. Place legs (C) on an assembly table with their “feet” braced against a square surface (temporary stop block, for instance) and their centers roughly one on top of the other. Spread the legs until you get a measurement of 16 ½" from the top to bottom for the bench legs (28" for the table) and trace on both legs where they intersect.

03 Set your circular saw or miter saw to a depth of ¾" and make several passes between your tracing of the leg intersection and carefully clean out the waste with a sharp chisel to create the half-lap joints. Dry fit and re-measure to make sure everything fits snugly and the “feet” remain square and the correct distance from the tops.

04 Place your slats (A) face-side down on your assembly table and insert ¼" spacers between them. Make sure the ends are flush and clamp the slats together. Place cleats (B) 8" in from slat ends and mark locations for pilot holes where the screws will catch the meat of your slats. Drill pilot holes and countersinks and connect with glue and 4" deck screws. MORE PLANS AT www.yellawood.co m



209

Picnic Table

BUILDING STEPS 05 Center your dry-fit leg assembly on the cleat and drill 3 8 " pilot holes through both and attach with 3 ½" carriage bolts.

06 Fit the brace (D) between the leg assembly and slat bottoms, making sure the legs remain square to the slats. Toe-screw the brace to the underside of the slats and drill a 3 8 " pilot hole through the brace where the legs intersect, countersinking the pilot hole on the brace to provide a flat surface for the washer and nut of your 4 ½" carriage bolt.

07 Sand all edges and surfaces smooth, finish with a waterproofing finish of your choice, place in your favorite picnic spot in your yard and gather friends and family!




210

Planter Box

This planter box is simple and fun to build. Featuring simple joinery reinforced with waterproof glue, exterior grade screws and galvanized finish nails, this planter can be built in a few hours and will provide years of attractive use. The plan can easily be modified and you can build a bigger box to house several plants or customize it to fit a specific space in which you want to place it. It can be located anywhere on your deck or in your yard, and is the perfect size for growing a single tomato plant or a few small patches of herbs. You can even bring it indoors during colder months and enjoy fresh-grown herbs or vegetables year round. One tip if you do decide to bring it indoors – place it on a plastic tray or boot mat to catch any water that may drip down through the weep holes, which are necessary to drain standing water from any planter. The simplicity of this plan means you can build a set of two, three or more planter boxes in a day or weekend. You can use them as enclosures for potted plants or grow any other type of flower, vegetable, fruit or herb you like. You can have a suite of planters your family will enjoy season after season.

BUILD TIME Cutting parts: Assembly: Total:

1 – 2 hours 1 – 3 hours 2 – 5 hours




211

Planter Box

A

TOOLS Miter saw (or circular saw) Table saw Jig saw (or hand saw) Drill/driver Hammer Nail set

x4 B

SUPPLIES

x4 One Lb. 1 ½" exterior-grade wood screws Waterproof exterior wood glue 1 ½" galvanized finish nails (2) 1 x 4 x 12' (1) 2 x 4 x 8' (to be ripped in half for legs) (3) 1 x 8 x 8'

C x4 D x2 E

CUT LIST A B C D E F G H

(4) (4) (4) (2) (3) (8) (2) (2)

1 x 8 x 18" 1 x 8 x 22 ½" 1 ½ x 1 ½ x 24" 1 x 2 x 18" 1 x 8 x 18" (2 notched, 1 ripped) 1 x 4 x 15 ½" 1 x 4 x 25 ½" 1 x 4 x 19 ½"

x 4 F x3 G x 2

Due to natural variances in lumber dimensions, measure and cut parts (G) and (H) after assembly of the rest of the box. This will ensure a flush fit and neater appearance.


H


x2


212

Planter Box

EXPLODED VIEW H G

H G

F F

F

F

A C C

B

A

B

C

E E

B F

C

D

A

D B

F

F F

A

3 3/8” 8 " dia. drainage holes




213

Planter Box

BUILDING STEPS TIP: Keep a damp rag handy to clean up any glue drips and runs as you work.

01 Cut the sides (A and B), legs (C), cleats (D) and corner trim (F) according to the dimensions on the cut list.

02 Cut 2 x 4 to about 50", rip in half on table saw, then cut to length for legs.

03 Cut the bottom pieces (E) and set aside for more cuts after assembly of the box.

04 Attach the shorter side pieces (A) to the legs with glue and screws, keeping edges flush.

05 Glue and screw cleats (D) to the inside of each side panel, keeping the bottom of the cleat roughly even with the bottom edge of the side panel.

06 Attach longer side pieces (B) to each panel, keeping all ends flush.

TIP: Always drill pilot holes when driving screws to avoid splitting the wood.

TIP: Small gaps (about 3 8 " or less) are acceptable for the bottom assembly, as drainage is required anyway.




214

Planter Box

BUILDING STEPS TIP: It is not necessary to attach the bottom boards to the cleats, but you may do so if you choose.

07 Place 2 of the bottom pieces (E) inside the box on top of the cleats and mark where to notch for the legs. Remove the pieces and cut the notches with a hand saw or jig saw. Put them back in place inside the box.

08 Attach corner trim pieces with glue and finish nails, keeping the tops flush with the box assembly.

09 Measure the distance between the 2 bottom pieces, rip the third piece to that width, and put it in place. Drill ¼” - ½” diameter drainage holes in each board (about 3 per board).

10 Measure from outside corner to outside corner along the top of the box to get your length for top trim pieces (long point to long point of your miter cuts). Attach with glue and finish nails.

11 Break all edges with sandpaper and make sure all nail heads are set.

TIP:

You may want to place a piece of landscape fabric in the bottom of your planter, but it is not necessary.




215

Playset PROJECT PLAN

Build a durable and fun playset for your children’s backyard adventures. This playset calls for a slide and 2 swings and features a sturdy frame, 2 ladders, and a crow’s nest peer-out point with a raised platform. It is an outdoor fixture that will last and have the whole family spending more time outside.

assembling the main skeleton. After that is raised, you will attach floor joists and install decking and outside walls. Make sure to take proper safety precautions including always wearing gloves, goggles and a dust mask when you’re cutting or sanding.

BUILD TIME

18 HRS

DIFFICULTY

You’ll start with the construction of the A-frame supports, then move on to

BuildYella.com




216

Playset WHAT YOU’LL NEED

SUPPLIES A A A A

4x4x10' (8)

A A A A

G

G

G

G

2x4x10' (2)

M

B

B

B

M

B

B

B

H

2x4x8' (1)

H

R

C

2x4x10' (2)

2x4x8' (1)

R

C

5 / 4x6x10' (1)

I

E

P

5 / 4x6x10' (1)

D

5 / 4x6x10' (1)

E

J

F

5 / 4x6x10' (1)

F

5 / 4x6x10' (1)

L

O

C

5 / 4x6x10' (1)

N

D

Q

A-FRAMES

5 / 4x6x10' (1)

K

4x4x10' (1)

T

4x4x10' (1)

S

MAIN BEAMS U

U

4x4x8' (1) 5 / 4x6x10' (1)

V

W

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

2x4x8' (1)

LADDERS

5 / 4x6x10' (6)

X




217


SUPPLIES Y

Y

Y

Y

2x4x8' (2) FLOOR JOISTS

Z

2x4x8' (1)

Z

AA

1x4x8' (1)

AA

CROW'S NEST JOISTS DD

CC

CC

BB

BB

II

EE

EE

II

EE

EE

2x4x10' (1)

5 / 4x6x10' (2)

KK

JJ

KK

JJ

FF LL

LL

GG HH

GG HH

HH

HH

2x4x8' (2)

CROW'S NEST CLADDING

1x4x8' (2)

MM

MM

MM

5 / 4x6x8' (7)

MM

MM

MM

MM

DECKING NN

OO

QQ

OO

5 / 4x6x8' (3)

*cut to 4 ½" width

OO

PP

PP

PP

PP

5 / 4x6x8' (2)

*cut to 4" width

RR

RR

RR

RR

RR

RR

SS

SS

SS

SS

1x4x8' (3) REAR CLADDING

5 / 4x6x8' (3)

SS




218


SUPPLIES

TOOLS

WOOD STOCK TOTAL 6x

1x4x8'

8x 5x

2x4x8' 2x4x10' Miter saw (or hand or circular saw)

Table saw

Handsaw

Drill/driver

1 / 8" Countersink drill bit

½" Forstner bit

Clamps

Carpenter’s square

Mallet

Measuring tape

Circular saw

1x 4x4x8' 10x 4x4x10' 15x 16x

5 / 4x6x8' 5 / 4x6x10'

HARDWARE 1 LB BOX 2 ½" Star-drive decking screws 3 ½" Star-drive decking screws 1 5 / 8" Star-drive decking screws

10x 6" FastenMaster TimberLOK

16x 4" FastenMaster TimberLOK

8x 2x4 joist hangers

BUILD TIME CUTTING

4 HRS

ASSEMBLY

+

12 HRS


FINISHING

+

2

TOTAL

=

HRS


18 HRS


219

Playset DIMENSIONS & DIAGRAMS

Notes: All measurements ar e approximate. Cut stock in the correct sequence of steps because many dimensions are directly measured and will vary based on actual stock and construction. Board dimensions can vary, so be sure to measure your stock.

TOP

~210"

FRONT

RIGHT SIDE

~95"

~94" ~142"




220

Playset OVERVIEW OF STEPS

1: A-FRAME SUPPORTS

6: CROW’S NEST CLADDING

2: MAIN BEAM

7: DECKING

3: LADDERS

8: REAR CLADDING

4: FLOOR JOISTS

9: FINISHING

5: CROW’S NEST JOISTS

10: ACCESSORIES




221

Playset JIGS

CUTLIST & DIAGRAMS FOR JIGS USED

A-FRAME MARKING JIG 3 18 / 8" (scrap 2x4)

14 ¼"

90˚

24.6˚

10 ¾" 15 7 / 8"

A-FRAME TOP BEAM SPACER JIG

12" long (scrap 2x4)

6" tall (scrap 4x4)

A-FRAME SIDE CLADDING SPACER JIG 50" long (scrap

5

/ 4x6

cut down to 3 ¾")

3 ¾"

Note: Why are these jigs necessary? To provide accuracy and consistency between parts and make cutting and assembly easier. Using jigs will result in a playset that is safer, stronger, and better looking. Watch the video to see how to make these jigs.




222


STEP 1: A-FRAMES

CUTLIST FOR A-FRAMES: 102 ¾" 3 ½"

1 ¾"

A 3 99 / 8" 5 4 / 8"

3 10 / 16"

1 46 / 8"

B

H

3 13 / 8"

47 ¾"

17"

49 ½"

36 3 / 8"

C

I

N

52"

33 7 / 8"

1

22 / 8"

5 53 / 8"

25 ¼"

32 1 / 4"

D

J

O

3 30 / 8"

3

29 3 / 4"

56 / 16" 3 57 / 4"

33 ½" E 5 38 / 8"

41 ¾"

28 1 / 8"

K

P

60 3 / 8"

25 9 / 16"

61 7 / 8"

24"

F

L

Q

7 46 / 8"

64 1 / 2"

21 ½"

50"

66"

G

M

53 ¼"

5 67 / 8"

46 ½" 3 ½"

R

3 ½"

3 ½"

½"

½" R (side view)

A-FRAME




223


STEP 1: A-FRAMES

SIDE ASSEMBLY VIEW A-FRAMES

B

B

B

H

C

D

H

N

I

O

J

R

G

A

B

B

C

C

D R

E

P

K

E

F

Q

L

F

G

B

M

A

G

M

G

A

A

A-FRAME




224


1ST SECTION: THE TWO OUTSIDE SUPPORTS

ASSEMBLY VIEW OUTSIDE SUPPORTS Make this assembly twice. Outside supports are identical.

B

B

C

C

D

D

E

E

F

F

G

G

A

A

A

FRONT

A

BACK (2x) A-FRAME




225


2ND SECTION: INSIDE LEFT SUPPORT

ASSEMBLY VIEW INSIDE LEFT SUPPORT

B

H

H

N

N

O

O R

R

P

P

Q

G

Q

M

A

M

A

A

FRONT

A

BACK

(1x) A-FRAME




226


3RD SECTION: INSIDE RIGHT SUPPORT

ASSEMBLY VIEW INSIDE RIGHT SUPPORT

H

H

B

I

I

C

J

J R

R

K

K

L

L

M

M G

A

A

A

FRONT

A

BACK

(1x) A-FRAME




227

Playset BUILDING

STEP 1: A-FRAMES A: Prep: Making Jigs and 4x4 Angle Cuts

A1

A3

A2

We’ll begin by making three jigs. See page 179 for the measurements. The first one you’ll make is a Marking Jig for the tops of the 4x4 beams.

A4

The second jig is the Top Beam Spacer, used to align the top of the 4x4 beams during assembly of the A-frames. See dimensions on page 179 and make accordingly.

A5

For the Marking Jig, take a 4x4 part (A) and measure 102 ¾" on each post. Use the Marking Jig to inscribe the cut lines. Then flip part (A) over and mark the other side too.

The third jig is a Spacer Jig that will be used for spacing the A-Frame side planks and ladder cladding. See dimensions on page 179 and make accordingly.

A6

You’ll need to do this to all 8 posts, marking both sides with cut lines. Next, cut on the inscribed lines using a circular saw to half depth. Flip the wood and cut through the remainder.

If desired, use a belt sander on the cut surfaces to smooth out the faces.

Cuts: For each step, you can pre-cut all of the pieces listed in the Cutlist for each section.

Tip: Need help, or have questions about how to cut these parts? Watch the video!

A-FRAME




228

Playset BUILDING

STEP 1: A-FRAMES B: Assembling A-Frame Supports

B3

B1

B2

All four A-frames share the same basi c structure, so you’ll repeat steps B1 - B6 four times. Use the Top Beam Spacer Jig and lay out two of the 4x4 posts into the A-frame position.

Measure 51 ¼" from the bottom outside corner and mark this on the post. Do this on both posts.

B4

B5

B6

Countersink part (G) with a half-inch Forstner bit.

Make sure the edges of part (G) are flush with the outside of the 4x4 post, and then secure it with 4" TimberLOK screws.

Finally, attach part (B) to the 4x4 posts using 3 ½" screws. Keep the Top Beam Spacer in place. Repeat steps B1 - B6 three more times to make the remaining A-frames.

Align the top of part (G) to the two points you just marked. This will set the angle of the A-frame. Be sure the Top Beam Spacer is still in place.

A-FRAME




229

Playset BUILDING

STEP 1: A-FRAMES C: Cladding the two Outside A-Frames

C1

C2

C3

We’ll focus first on the two outside A-frames. Flip over two of the assembled frames and attach a second part (B) to the tops of them. Keep the Top Beam Spacer jig in place for this.

Flip them again and install cladding planks (C) through (F) onto the 4x4 posts. Place the spacer jig between each plank. Use 2 ½" screws. Begin at part (G) and move up toward part (B).

Use 2 screws at the end of each board. Make sure the angled edges on the cladding are flush with the 4x4 post. The completed A-frames should look like the photo above.

A-FRAME




230

Playset BUILDING

STEP 1: A-FRAMES D: Cladding and Assembling the Inside Left A-Frame

D1

D2

D3

Each of the two inside A-frames are unique. We’ll start by cutting notches into the ends of part (R). These will allow proper positioning of the crow’s nest side walls.

Using a handsaw, cut a ½" deep by 3 ½" wide notch at each end of part (R).

Next, we will create the crow’s nest walls. This assembly is created separately from the A-frame.

D4

D5

D6

Attach parts ( H) and (M) to vertical post (R). They should set into the notches at each end. Attach with 2 ½" screws.

Be sure the angles at each end of parts (H) and (M) match the angle of the A-frame.

Using the spacer jig, lay out the remaining parts (N) through (Q). Align them so that their edges are flush with the edge of part (R), and then attach them with 2 ½" screws.

D7

D8

D9

Flip the assembly and position it on the A-frame. Support the overhan ging edge with blocking during this step.

Align part (M) with par t (G), then attach using 4" TimberLOK hardware. Next, with the Top Beam Spacer in place, attach part (H) using 3 ½" screws.

Attach parts (N) - (Q), starting with (Q). Use the spacer jig for placement. This completes the Inside Left A-frame.

Tip: Need help, or have questions about how to cut these parts? Watch the video!

A-FRAME




231

Playset BUILDING

STEP 1: A-FRAMES E: Cladding and Assembling the Inside Right A-Frame

E1

E2

E3

Attach parts ( H) and (M) to vertical post (R). This is similar to step D4, but reverse the orientation of these parts.

Be sure the angles at each end of parts (H) and (M) match the angle of the A-frame.

Using the spacer jig, lay out the remaining parts (I) through (L). Align them so that their edges are flush with the edge of part (R), and then attach them with 2 ½" screws.

E4

E5

E6

Flip the assembly and position it on the A-frame. Support the overhan ging edge with blocking during this step.

Align part (M) with par t (G), then attach using 4" TimberLOK hardware. Next, with the Top Beam Spacer in place, attach part (H) using 3 ½" screws.

Attach parts (I) - (L), starting with (L). Use the spacer jig for placement. The angled edges of parts (I) - (L) will be flush with the back edge of the A-frame, creating a walled-in piece. This completes the Inside Right A-frame.

CONGRATULATIONS! THE A-FRAMES ARE THE SKELETON OF THE PLAYSET, AND HAVING THEM COMPLETE MAKES THE FOLLOWING STEPS STRAIGHTFORWARD.

A-FRAME




232


STEP 2: MAIN BEAM

CUTLIST

90 ¼" 3 ½"

S

120" 3 ½"

T

10 3 / 8" 3 ½"

U

18 3 / 8"

90 ½" 5 ½"

V

MAIN BEAM




233


ASSEMBLY VIEW MAIN BEAM S

T

U

U

V

FRONT

T

U

S

U

V

BACK MORE PLANS AT www.yellawood.co m

MAIN BEAM



234


ASSEMBLY VIEW MAIN BEAM T

U

V

SIDE

MAIN BEAM




235

Playset BUILDING

STEP 2: MAIN BEAM A: Prep and Mark

A1

Next we’ll need beams (S) and (T), as well as part (V). This piece will help stabilize the structure during assembly.

A4

A2

A3

On the rear posts of the Outside Left A-Frame and the two Inside A-Frames, make a mark at 50 ½" from the bottom edge of the post.

Mark the center of part (V) and the center of the rear post (A) on the Inside Left A-Frame as well. These marks will help position part (V) during assembly.

A5 Note: The center of part (V) should be attached at the center of the rear post of the Inside Left A-Frame. This step is critical for the dimensions of parts throughout the structure assembly. Measure and double check dimensions as needed.

With an assistant or two, lift the Outside Left and Inside Left A-Frames up.

Connect the two frames by installing part (V) using the marks you made to help position the board. Use 3 ½" screws.

MAIN BEAM




236

Playset BUILDING

STEP 2: MAIN BEAM B: Mount Beams

B1

B2

B3

Drop in part (S). Align the end so that it’s flush with the outside edge of part (B) on the Outside Left A-Frame.

In the center of this beam, drill and countersink using a ½" Forstner bit. Then fasten the parts together using 6" TimberLOK screws. Do this on the reverse side of the A-Frame as well.

The center of the Left Inside A-Frame, part (A), should be 46 ¾" from the end of the beam. After confirming this measurement, fasten the pieces together.

B4

B5

B6

Raise the Inside Right A-Frame into position. Attach part ( V) using your reference marks as guides. The outside edge of part (V) should be flush with the outside edge of the A-Frame.

Top Beam (S) should end at the midpoint of the Inside Right A-frame as shown. Countersink and attach using 6" TimberLOK screws.

Next, position part (T) vertically with the Outside Right A-frame on the ground. Insert part (T) into the A-Frame, then countersink and attach using 6" TimberLOK screws.

B7

B8

B9

Tip the assembly into position with the end of part (T ) butting up against part (S). Countersink and attach with 6" TimberLOK screws.

Install the additional part (C) to the outside of the Inside Right A-Frame using 2 ½" screws. The angle brace (U) will butt up against this piece.

Attach part (U) using 3 ½" screws. There are two of these braces you’ll need to install, one on each side of the swings.

MAIN BEAM




237


STEP 3: LADDERS

CUTLIST

40" 3 ½"

W

47"

5 ½"

X

LADDERS




238


ASSEMBLY VIEW LADDERS

X

W

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

FRONT

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

BACK LADDERS




239

Playset BUILDING

STEP 3: LADDERS A: Attach to Structure

A1

A2

Position and install the bottom rung, part (X). Attach using 2 ½" screws at the end of each board.

A3

Using the 3 ¾" spacer jig from before, continue to install parts (X) up the A-frame. The top edge of the top rung should be slightly below the top edge of part (G).

Repeat this process for the ladder at the back of the inside A-frames.

A4

Finally, install part (W) on the front of the crow’s nest using 3 ½" screws.

LADDERS




240


STEP 4: FLOOR JOISTS

CUTLIST

37 ¼" 3 ½"

Y

3 44 / 8"

3 ½"

Z

FLOOR JOISTS




241


ASSEMBLY VIEW FLOOR JOISTS

Y

Y

Z

Z

Y

Y

Y

Y

TOP

Z

Y

Z

Y

BOTTOM MORE PLANS AT www.yellawood.co m

FLOOR JOISTS



242

Playset BUILDING

STEP 4: FLOOR JOISTS A: Attach to Structure

A1

A2

The joist hangers will be mounted to the cross frame supports (G) and (M). On part (G), make a mark 2 ½" in from the edge. This is the center of the joist hanger. Also mark this on part (M).

A3

Install these joist hangers at the first marks using 1 ½" screws. Use a scrap 2x4 block during this step. The top edge of the 2x4 should be flush with the top of parts (G) and (M).

Now mark 45 /7 8 " away from the first set of joist hangers (center to center). Do this for each cross frame support and install the second set of joist hangers on parts (G) and (M).

A4

A5

A6

Attach part (Z) to parts (Y) to create two H shaped assemblies. Part (Z) should be attached to the centers of parts (Y) using 3 ½" screws. Create these assemblies on the ground, separate from the main structure.

Drop one H shaped assembly into the joist hangers and secure the hangers to the joists using 1 /5 8" screws.

Repeat this on the right side, where the crow’s nest will be. Once complete, the supports for the decking are finished.

Tip: Need help with the joist hangers? Watch the video!



FLOOR JOISTS


243


STEP 5: CROW’S NEST JOISTS

CUT LIST

38"

AA

3 ½"

18 7 / 8" 3 ½"

BB

15" 3 ½"

CC

38" 3 ½"

DD

CROW’S NEST JOISTS




244


ASSEMBLY VIEW CROW’S NEST JOISTS

AA

BB DD AA

TOP

DD BB





245


ASSEMBLY VIEW CROW’S NEST JOISTS

BB

CC

CC

AA

AA BB

DD

LEFT SIDE





246

Playset BUILDING

STEP 5: CROW’S NEST JOISTS A: Attach to Structure

A1

A2

We’ll start by adding framing for the crow’s nest. Begin by attaching part (DD) to the back of part (W), creating a double 2x4 beam across the front of the crow’s nest. Use 2 ½" screws.

A4

A3

Now, assemble parts (BB) and (CC) using 3 ½" screws to create a center support structure for the crow’s nest decking. Use two screws at the end of each board to make a square structure.

Attach part (AA) to the center of the center support structure you just made. The bottom edge of part (AA) should be flush with the bottom edge of part (BB). Use 1 5 /8" screws.

A5

Position the center support structure you just made so that it rests on part ( Y) and (DD). It should be centered on these parts. Attach using 3 ½" screws diagonally into parts (Y) and (DD). Also use 1 5 /8" screws at the edge of part (AA).

Finally, position part (AA) so that it is centered on the back of the center support structure. The bottom edge of part (AA) should be flush with the bottom edge of part (BB). Attach using 1 5 /8" screws.





247


STEP 6: CROW’S NEST CLADDING

CUTLIST

38" 5 ½"

II

40" EE

5 ½"

3 ½" 40" 3 ½"

JJ

3 ½"

FF

14 ½" 38" 3 ½"

KK GG

3 ½"

15 ¼" 3 ½"

20 3 / 8"

LL

3 ½"

HH

CROW’S NEST CLADDING




248


ASSEMBLY VIEW CROW’S NEST CLADDING FF

EE

EE

EE HH

GG

HH

EE HH

HH

FRONT

II

KK

KK

LL

LL

JJ

JJ

FF

LEFT SIDE CROW’S NEST CLADDING




249


ASSEMBLY VIEW CROW’S NEST CLADDING FF

EE

EE II

LL

JJ EE

GG

HH

GG EE

II

HH

KK

SIDE





250

Playset BUILDING

STEP 6: CROW’S NEST CLADDING A: Install Blocking Supports

A1

A2

Install parts (LL) along the back of part (P). The top edge of part (LL) should be flush with the top edge of part (P). Attach using 2 ½" screws from the outside.

A3

Repeat on the other side of the crow’s nest, this time making sure the top edge of part (LL) is flush with the top edge of part (K). This will provide support for the decking to come.

Next, install parts (KK) vertically, using part (AA) to help position them. Part (KK) should butt up against part (AA) at the bottom, and butt up against part (LL) at the top. Attach using 1 5 /8" screws from the outside.

A4

Attach parts (JJ) to the inside of parts ( R). The top edge of part (JJ) should be flush with the top edge of part (LL). Attach with 2 ½" screws from the inside.





251

Playset BUILDING

STEP 6: CROW’S NEST CLADDING B: Attach to Structure

B1

B2

B3

Attach the lowermost par t (EE) to the front of the crow’s nest using 2 ½" screws. Align part (EE) with parts (L) and (Q).

Next, attach part (FF) at the top of the crow’s nest using 3 ½" screws. Align part (FF) with parts (H). Then, install the remaining parts (EE) on the front of the crow’s nest, from bottom to top.

The remaining parts (II), (GG), and (HH) should fit into the remaining gaps on the crow’s nest.

B4

B5

For parts (II) and (HH), the screws should be at the ends of the board and go into the blocking part (KK).

Be sure to pre-drill and countersink when screwing this close to the ends of the boards.





252


STEP 7: DECKING

CUTLIST

83 ½" MM

5 ½"

83 ½" NN

4 ½"

40" 4 ½"

OO

40" 4"

PP

35" 4 ½"

QQ

DECKING




253


ASSEMBLY VIEW DECKING

OO

OO

NN

NN

MM

MM

MM

MM

MM

MM

MM

MM

MM

MM

MM

MM

MM

MM

OO

PP PP PP PP QQ

TOP

QQ PP PP PP OO PP MM

MM

MM

MM

MM

MM

MM

MM

MM

MM

MM

MM

MM

MM

NN

NN

OO

OO


DECKING



254

Playset BUILDING

STEP 7: DECKING A: Attach to Joists

A1

A2

Position the first decking board (MM) against the posts of the A-frame at the front of the structure.

A4

A3

Center and attach using 2 ½" screws. Use 2 screws at each floor joist location, for a total of 8 screws per board (MM). Set out the remaining (MM) boards but do not screw them in.

The final board of this decking will be board (NN) which should fit up against the rear posts of the A-frames. Now you can attach all these boards with 2 ½" screws into the joists below.

A5

Install parts (OO) at the three openings of the structures. They should project slightly beyond the A-frames.

Position and install parts (PP) and (QQ) as the decking for the crow’s nest. Part (QQ) will sit between the posts (R). Attach using 2 ½" screws into the blocking you installed below.

DECKING




255


STEP 8: REAR CLADDING

CUTLIST

47" 3 ½"

RR

47" 5 ½"

SS

REAR CLADDING




256


ASSEMBLY VIEW REAR CLADDING

RR

SS SS SS SS SS

TOP RR SS RR SS RR SS RR SS RR SS RR

BACK REAR CLADDING




257

Playset BUILDING

STEP 8: REAR CLADDING A: Attach to Structure

A1

A2

A3

Position part (RR) on the back of the A-frame posts. Making sure the outer edge is flush with the 4x4 posts behind it, attach part (RR) with 2 ½" screws.

Alternate boards (SS) and (RR) up the structure, keeping the outside edges flush with the 4x4 posts behind them.

Attach all of the parts (RR) and (SS) with 2 ½" screws into the 4x4 posts behind them.

REAR CLADDING




258


STEP 9: FINISHING

YellaWood® brand products provide the best available pressure treated lumber protection against rot, fungal decay and termites. Sanding edges is recommended to reduce snags and splintering. At a minimum, we recommend annual application of a water repellent. You can also paint or stain it if you prefer.

A1

Ease any sharp edges with a medium grit sandpaper. Apply a finish to the wood if desired.

FINISHING




259


STEP 10: ACCESSORIES

Choose your own playset accessories based on your needs. One or both of the standard swings shown can be replaced by toddler or glider swings if needed.

A1

A2

Make a mark on beam (T) 26" from the left edge of beam (T). Make a second mark 18" further in. Drill holes at these points to hold your swing hanger bolts. Follow the swing hanger bolt manufacturer’s instructions for this step.

A3

Repeat this step on the right side of beam (T). After installing the swing hanger bolts, follow the swing manufacturer’s instructions for how to attach the swings.

Attach the slide to the decking. Follow the slide manufacturer’s instructions for this step. Use approved hardware to attach the slide and swings.

CONGRATULATIONS ON COMPLETING YOUR VERY OWN OUTDOOR PLAYSET! TIME TO LET YOUR KIDS ENJOY IT. NEVER LET CHILDREN USE THE PLAYSET WITHOUT PROPER SUPERVISION.

ACCESSORIES




260

Playset GALLERY




261

Potting Bench

Gardening work will be more enjoyable and efficient with this rugged and versatile potting bench. With plenty of countertop space, pegboard, shelving, a drawer and large bin sized for bags of potting mix, all your potting and transplanting tools will be easily stored and ready to use. Hook a hose up to the PVC faucet setup and you’re ready to rinse vegetables or give young transplants a cool drink of water. You can let the sink drain into a bucket underneath, or you can hook up a length of hose and direct it away from the bench for a makeshift drain. This project represents a f airly significant investment in time and materials, with a stainless steel bar sink, exterior-grade plywood and plumbing supplies. But it is simpler to build than it may appear, and the result will provide years of gardening enjoyment.


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262

Potting Bench

TOOLS

CUT LIST

Circular saw or miter saw Jig saw Drill/driver 7 64 " drill bit 78 " forstner or spade bit Squares (framing and combination) Hacksaw Hammer and nail set

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z AA

SUPPLIES (2) 2 x 6 x 8' (8) 2 x 4 x 8' (1) 1 x 6 x 4' (1) 1 x 5 x 4' (2) ¾" x 4' x 8' exterior plywood (1) ¼" x 4' x 8' perforated hardboard (pegboard) 1 ¼", 2" and 3" deck screws 1 ¼" galvanized finish nails Stainless steel bar sink ¾" PVC pipe (8') (2) pipe strap clamps (2) 90° PVC elbows PVC stop valve PVC female adapter Hose thread to pipe thread transition fitting PVC primer and cement Teflon tape Weatherproof glue Damp rag to wipe up excess glue

(2) (2) (1) (2) (2) (3) (3) (2) (1) (1) (1) (1) (1) (1) (1) (1) (1) (1) (2) (2) (1) (1) (2) (2) (1) (1) (2)

1 ½ x 5 ½ x 66" 1 ½ x 3 ½ x 45" ¾ x 5 ½ x 45" 1 ½ x 3 ½ x 35 ¼" 1 ½ x 3 ½ x 33 ¼" 1 ½ x 3 ½ x 24 ½" 1 ½ x 3 ½ x 24" 1 ½ x 1 ½ x 27" ¾ x 3 5 x 45" 1 ½ x 1 ½ x 45" 1 ½ x 5 ½ x 45" ¾ x 28 ½ x 49" (exterior plywood) 1 ½ x 3 ½ x6" ¾ x 26 ¾ x 24¼" (exterior plywood) ¾ x 26 ¾ x 20 ¼" (exterior plywood) ¼ x 17 5 8 x 31 ¼" (pegboard) ¼ x 17 x 25" (pegboard) ¼ x 62 x 48" (pegboard) ¾ x 3 ½ x 24" (exterior plywood) ¾ x 3 ½ x 19 ¼" (exterior plywood) ¾ x 20 ¾ x 24" (exterior plywood) ¾ x 5 ¾ x 22 ¼" (exterior plywood) ¾ x 16 ½ x 24" (exterior plywood) ¾ x 16 ½ x 16" (exterior plywood) ¾ x 20 x 24" (exterior plywood) ¾ x 19 ¾ x 22 ¼" (exterior plywood) ¾ x ¾ x 24"

*Note: The plywood components of this plan require a primer coat and quality weatherproof paint for durability. It is recommended you first do a dry assembly with no glue and minimal screws to make sure everything fits together properly. Then disassemble, apply primer, paint and finish of your choice to all components and then reassemble with glue and screws. Remember to drill pilot holes for all screws.




263

Potting Bench

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X1 X2 ©Great Southern Wood Preserving, Inc.

264

Potting Bench R Sink cutout

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Y Bottom bin MORE PLANS AT www.yellawood.co m



265

Potting Bench

BUILDING STEPS 01 Cut parts A through K to size according to the cut list and mark in pencil to keep organized. Begin assembling left side (plumbing side) in the following manner: Install one upper stretcher (G) flush with top of front leg (D) and inset 1 ½" from both the front leg and back leg to allow for the front and back top stretchers (use a scrap block of 2 x 4 and a framing square for proper placement). Install lower stretcher (F) 4" up from bottom of legs and inset 1 ½" from back leg and 1" from front leg. Fasten with glue and 2" screws. Make sure the assembly is square before proceeding to the next step.

02 Build the right side in the same manner, except this side includes a drawer support (H), which is installed 4 ¾" below the bottom edge of upper stretcher (G). Again, make sure everything is square and attach with glue and 2" screws.

03 Connect the two end assemblies by attaching the two back stretchers (B), keeping the tops flush with the tops of their corresponding lower stretchers (F). Use glue and 3" screws.

04 Install top stretcher (C), keeping top of stretcher flush with top of back legs (A). Carefully drill pilot holes and use glue and 3" screws.

05 Install top front stretcher (J) with glue and 3" screws, keeping top flush with top of upper stretchers (G) and face should be flush with front edge of front legs (D).




266

Potting Bench

BUILDING STEPS 06 Mark center of both back stretchers (B) and line up center of one middle leg (E), keeping the top of the leg 1 ½" down from the top edge of the upper back stretcher so that top of upper stretcher (G) will eventually line up flush with top of back stretcher (B). Attach with glue and 2" screws.

07 Install bottom front stretcher (I) to front edge of both lower stretchers (F), keeping tops flush. Use glue and 2" screws.

08 Hold other middle leg (E) even with one of the front legs and mark where front stretcher (I) will fall. Cut a ¾" deep dado for the front stretcher to fit into, mark the center points of both the (I) and (J) and line those up with the center point of front middle leg (E). Attach to bottom front stretcher with 2" screws and glue.

09 The inside edge of the top front stretcher (J) should fall across the center of the top of the front middle leg (E), leaving about ¾" for both the top front stretcher and middle upper stretcher (G) to attach to the leg. Place middle upper stretcher on top of the back and front middle legs (E) and attach with 3" screws. Drive 3" screws through the front of the top front stretcher and into the middle upper stretcher as well.

10 Attach the shelf (K) to the back legs (A), keeping bottom of shelf flush with bottom edge of top stretcher (C). Use a combination square and clamps to help keep the shelf square and level. Use glue and 3" screws through the back legs and into the shelf, and use 2" screws from the back of the top stretcher and into the shelf.




267

Potting Bench

BUILDING STEPS 11 Install remaining lower stretcher (F) to both the middle back and front leg (E) with glue and 3" screws, keeping top flush with back and front stretchers (B and I). Attach bottom shelf cleat (M) flush on the left (plumbing side) of the middle lower stretcher (F) to help support undersink shelf (N). Cut the undersink shelf (N) and bottom (O) to size, notching part (N) to fit around back, front and middle legs. There should be at least a 3 8 " gap between the two bottom pieces to accept middle pegboard panel later on. Attach with glue and 2" screws.

12 Cut bin sliders (AA) and install to bottom (O) with glue and finish nails driven below the top surface of (AA). These sliders make it easier for the heavy bin to slide in and out of its appointed space.

13 Measure and cut the countertop (L) to size. Cut notches to fit around the back legs and keep a ½" to ¾" overhang from the outside edges of both the front and back legs as well as the front edge of the top front stretcher (countertop should be flush with back edge of back stretcher). Lay out the sink cutout where you want it (your sink should come with a template to help you); drill pilot holes inside the layout marks and finish the cut with a jig saw. Install the countertop with glue and 2" screws driven from underneath parts J, G and B (you’ll have to drive screws at an angle in some places, be careful not to drive them through the top of your countertop.

14 Cut all drawer and bin pieces to size. Apply glue to the ends of the end pieces (T and X, respectively) and clamp the side pieces (S and W) in place as shown in detail illustrations. Drill pilot holes and attach with 1 ¼" deck screws. Position bottom pieces (U and Y) in place and use them to help square up end/side assemblies. Attach with glue and 1 ¼" screws.




268

Raised Veggie Bed

This plan is so simple you could build several of various sizes in one day. The simple corner trim detail serves to both cover the end grain of the side pieces as well as reinforce the corners. Landscape fabric stapled to the bottom keeps your potting mix in place while allowing adequate drainage for your plantings. Perfect for a patio or deck — you can tend a little patch of vegetables just outside your door. You can also grow herbs or flowers, or you can place them around your home to use as landscape beds. The concepts and details are the same; the only thing you have to change is the measurements of your side pieces.

BUILD TIME Cutting parts: Less than 1 hour Assembly: Less than 1 hour Finishing: 1 hour Total: 2 – 3 hours




269

Raised Veggie Bed

A

TOOLS Circular saw or miter saw (or even a hand saw) Drill/driver 7 64 " drill bit Hammer Utility knife Brad nailer or hammer and nail set

SUPPLIES

X4

B

(1) 2 x 8 x 8' (1) 1 x 4 x 5' 3" deck screws 1 ½" galvanized brads or finish nails 38 " galvanized staples Landscape fabric (at least 24"x 27")

X8

C

CUT LIST A B C

(4) (8) (1)

1 ½" x 7 ¼" x 24" ¾" x 3 ½" x 7 ¼" trim to fit

X1

*Note: We did not show the use of weatherproof glue in this assembly, as an eventual weathered, curled look with somewhat loose joints is preferred in this case. By all means, however, the use of glue and a quality finish is recommended if that “weathered barn” look is not what you eventually want.




270

Raised Veggie Bed

B

A

B B

A B

A

A

B

B B




271

Raised Veggie Bed

BUILDING STEPS 01 Cut four lengths of 2 x 8 at 24" for the sides (A). You should be able to do this with a single eight-footer, which usually measures at least 96 ½", if not more. Drill pilot holes in both ends of two side pieces where they will connect to the ends of the other two side pieces.

02 Connect the sides with 3" deck screws, keeping the outside faces flush with the ends. It will help to do this on a flat surface to keep the bottom edges flush with each other. Those will then become a nice, level top when you flip the assembly over.

03 Cut eight corner trim pieces (B) from 1 x 4 to a length 7 ½" and place each piece at the corners so they overlap the corner joints of the box assembly (see detail illustration). Attach with 1 ½" galvanized brads or finish nails.

04 Attach a piece of landscape fabric to the top edges (those that will eventually become the bottom) with galvanized staples. Let the fabric sag, as you want to leave room for the fabric to sag and settle with the eventual weight of your planting mix. Trim edges with a utility knife after you’ve driven all your staples flush.

05 Turn over and break all edges/sand all surfaces to eliminate splinters. Apply a weatherproof finish if desired, and place in your new planting spot. Add the potting mix of your choice, plant and tend!




272

Sandbox

This sand box is as rugged and durable as it is simple to build. Notching the 4 x 4 posts for the side pieces and using 2 x 10 stock for corner braces, this box will handle all the rough and tumble play youngsters can dish out. Heavy duty landscape fabric on the bottom allows water to drain out and keeps grass and weeds from creeping in. This particular plan is for a large sand box, and you can adjust the dimensions in any way you like to make it bigger or smaller. Remember to calculate how many yards of sand it will take to fill your box before you build it (inside box width x inside box width x depth of sand). This box ended up requiring about .6 cubic yards of play sand to fill to depth of 6 inches. Careful sanding and rounding over of all sharp corners are especially important for this plan, as you want to eliminate the chance for splinters as much as possible.

BUILD TIME Cutting parts: 1 hour Assembly: 1 hour Finishing: 2 hours Total: 4 hours




273

Sandbox A

TOOLS

X4

Miter saw or circular saw Table saw Drill/driver Staple gun 1/8” drill bit Damp rag to wipe up excess glue

B X4

C

SUPPLIES (1) 4 x 4 x 8’ (4) 2 x 10 x 8’ (4) 1 x 6 x 8’ ½” galvanized staples 3” deck screws Heavy duty landscape fabric Waterproof wood glue Play Sand

X4

D

X4

CUT LIST A B C D

(4) (4) (4) (4)

3 ½ x 3 ½ x 7 3/8” 1 ½ x 9 x 68” 1 ½ x 9¼ x 18” ¾ x 5 ½ x 77”




274

Sandbox

A D

C

B

D B A

C

landscape fabric D D

B B

cut radii on all four top corners after assembly A




275

Sandbox Corner post detail

1"

B

1 5/8" A

1 5/8"

1"

B

Corner brace detail

9" 45°

18"




276

Sandbox

BUILDING STEPS 01 Cut four posts (A) to length according to plan. Then, set your table saw fence to 1" and run the posts through on two sides, reset the fence to 15 8 " and run through again to make two notches to accept the sides (B) (see detail illustration).

02 Cut four sides (B) to length. Check the widths of all four sides to make sure they are the same. If there are some slight differences, rip them on your table saw to one width. In this case, we ripped all the sides to 9". Attach to posts with 3" deck screws and glue.

03 Cut corner braces (C) from leftover pieces of 2 x 10. In this case we cut two 45° angles at 18" apart; you can make them smaller if you wish. Place them tight in each corner and attach with glue and 3" deck screws.

04 Attach landscape fabric to the bottom of the box with ½" galvanized staples. Do not pull the fabric tight so the weight of the sand does not rip it loose when filled.

05 Turn the box over and check for square. Cut the tops (D) by measuring the distance from inside corners of posts, which will be the short points of the 45° miters on the top pieces. Spread glue on the corner posts (A) and top edges of sides (B) and attach with 3" screws on corners and 2" screws into the top edges of the sides.




277

Sandbox

BUILDING STEPS 06 Round over each corner (we simply traced the bottom of our glue bottle to get our curve) and if desired, rout a 1 8 " roundover along all edges. You may forego the routing and simply break the edges with sandpaper if you wish. Sand the rest of the box thoroughly to eliminate the chance of splinters. Apply a waterproofing finish according to manufacturer instructions.

TIP: If your miters do not meet tightly, you can drive screws through the edges of the tops (D) o pull them together.

TIP:

To figure out how much sand it will take to

fill your box, multiply length x width x desired sand depth. In this case we had approximately 70" x 70" x 6", which gave us 29,400 cubic inches. There are 1,728 cubic inches in a cubic foot and 27 cubic feet in a cubic yard, so our dimensions yield 17 cubic feet, or just over .6 cubic yards.




278

Window Box

Add a bit of pizzazz to your home’s exterior and brighten your own view from inside the house with this simple, classic window box design. Built to accommodate most common flower and plant containers, you can build several boxes in one day using this simple design – and dress up as many windows as you wish. Here we use a simple pair of interlocking beveled cleats to attach the box directly to the house. But you can use rugged metal brackets or adjust the plan to accommodate nearly any hanging apparatus you like. You can also play around with the front piece and cut a more decorative profile to suit your home’s architectural theme.

BUILD TIME Cutting parts: 1 hour Assembly: 1 hour Finishing: 1 hour Total: 3 hours or less

TIP:

If using a hammer and finish nails to attach pieces, you will have to drill pilot holes so as not to split the wood. Set all nails below the surface with a nail set. These steps are unnecessary when using a finish nailer.




279

Window Box

A

TOOLS Miter saw or circular saw Table saw Drill/driver Finish nailer or hammer Nail set Damp rag to wipe up excess glue

X1 B

SUPPLIES X1 1 ½" galvanized finish nails 2" finish nails 1 ¼" deck screws Waterproof wood glue (1) 1 x 8 x 10' (1) 1 x 6 x 8'

CUT LIST

C

X2 D X1

A B C D E F G H I&J

(1) (1) (2) (1) (1) (2) (3) (1) (2)

¾ x 7 ¼ x 33" ¾ x 7 ¼ x 31" ¾ x 7 ¼ x 10 ¼" ¾ x 1 ½ x 34" ¾ x 1 ½ x 30 ½" ¾ x 1 ½ x 10" ¾ x 1 ½ x 8 1116 " ¾ x 1 ½ x 31" ¾ x 1 ½ x 31"

E X1 F X2 G X3 H X1 I&J

X2




280

Window Box

EXPLODED VIEW

Cleat detail 3/ " 4

Back of box I

1 1/2 "

F

J

E

House wall

D

0

45

J

F

C

B

G

I

H

G A G C




281

Window Box

BUILDING STEPS 01 Cut all the pieces according to the dimensions on the cut list. For the trim (D,E,F), support pieces (G) and blocking (H), rip two 1 ½" pieces from the 1 x 6 on your table saw.

02 For the cleats (I & J) , which will be used to hang the box on your house, set your table saw’s blade at 45° and rip the remaining 1 x 6 stock down the middle. Reset your saw blade to 90° and rip both pieces to 1 ½" wide.

03 Attach one cleat (I) and blocking (H) to the back panel (B), as shown in the illustration. Use glue and screws.

04 Attach the side panels (C) to the back panel (B) with finish nails and glue, keeping the ends flush with the cleat and blocking.

05 Attach the front panel (A) to the side panels, keeping a ¼" overhang on each side.




282

Window Box

BUILDING STEPS 06 Layout and mark the locations for the bottom supports (G) on the inside bottom of the back and front panels. Center one support and keep the two end pieces 2 – 3" in from the ends. Attach with glue and finish nails.

07 Set the back trim (E) and side trim (F) pieces in place, keeping the back trim and ends of the side trim flush with the back of the hanging cleat, and the side trim overhanging evenly (approx. ½") on both sides. Attach with glue and finish nails.

08 Attach the front trim (D) with glue and nails. You should have an approximate ½" overhang on the front and ½" overhang on either end.

09 Break all edges and touch up rough spots with sandpaper. Make sure all nail heads are set below the wood surface.

10 Apply a waterproofing finish to all exposed surfaces according to manufacturer instructions.




283

Window Box

BUILDING STEPS 11 Attach the second cleat to your home using appropriate anchors/screws for your siding material. Be sure to keep the cleat level and spaced properly below your window trim.

12 Attach the box to your house using the interlocking cleats. If you want to hang it permanently, drive additional screws through the inside of the back panel, the cleats and blocking and into your home’s siding.




284

FASTENER AND HARDWARE INFORMATION SHEET

For interior or exterior applications Use fasteners and hardware that are in compliance with the manufacturer’s recommendations and the building codes for their intended use. As with any good design and construction practices, treated wood should not be used in applications where trapped moisture or water can occur. Where design and/or actual conditions allow for constant, repetitive or long periods of wet conditions, only stainless steel fasteners should be used. For exterior applications The following minimum galvanization levels may be used for connectors, joist hangers, fasteners and other hardware that are placed in direct contact with exterior applications of micronized copper treated wood: • •

We recommend that you contact the aluminum building products manufacturer for recommendations regarding use of its aluminum products in contact with treated wood in ground contact applications or when exposed to salt water, brackish water, or chlorinated water, such as swimming pools or hot tubs. Also check with the aluminum building products manufacturer regarding compatibility with other chemicals and cleaning agents and the use of their aluminum products in commercial, industrial and specialty applications such as boat construction.

Fasteners - nails, screws, etc. ASTM – A 153 (1 oz/ft²) Hardware - connectors, joist hangers, etc. ASTM – A 653 G90 (0.90 oz/ft²)

The effects of other building materials within a given assembly, along with environmental factors, should also be considered when selecting the appropriate hardware and fasteners to use for a given project containing treated wood. Stainless steel fasteners and hardware are required for permanent wood foundations below grade and are recommended for use with treated wood in other severe exterior applications such as swimming pools, salt water exposure, etc. Type 304 and 316 are recommended grades to use. Aluminum building products may be placed in direct contact with YellaWood® brand products used for interior uses and above ground exterior applications such as decks, fencing and landscaping projects. Examples of aluminum products include siding, roofing, gutters, door and window trim, flashing, nails, fasteners and other hardware connectors. However, direct contact of treated products and aluminum building products should be limited to code-compliant construction applications that provide proper water drainage and do not allow the wood to be exposed to standing water or water immersion.


YellaWood® brand pressure treated products are treated with copper and other preservatives (the “Preservatives”) and preservative methods, systems and technologies of unrelated third parties. For details regarding the Preservatives, methods, systems and technologies used by Great Southern Wood Preserving, Incorporated, visit http://www. greatsouthernwood.com/products/yellawood or write us at P.O. Box 610, Abbeville, AL 36310. Ask dealer for warranty details or visit http://www. greatsouthernwood.com/products/warranties. For important handling and other information concerning our products or for a copy of the YellaWood ® brand Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS), please visit us at www.greatsouthernwood.com or write us at P.O. Box 610, Abbeville, AL 36310. YellaWood ® and the yellow tag are federally registered trademarks of Great Southern Wood Preserving, Incorporated. Great Southern Wood Preserving, Incorporated makes no warranties expressed or implied as to the fitness for a particular purpose of this plan.



285

IMPORTANT INFORMATION

•

•

• • • •

• • • •

•

• • •

•

Consult the end tag to determine which preservative or preservative system was used in the treatment of that particular product. YellaWood® brand products may be used in direct contact with aluminum building products when limited to code-compliant construction applications that provide proper water drainage and do not allow the wood to be exposed to standing water or water immersion. Use fasteners and other hardware that are in compliance with building codes for the intended use. Do not burn preserved wood. Wear a dust mask and goggles when cutting or sanding wood. Wear gloves when working with wood. Some preservatives may migrate from the treated wood into soil/water or may dislodge from the treated wood surface upon contact with skin. Wash exposed skin areas thoroughly. All sawdust and construction debris should be cleaned up and disposed of after construction. Wash work clothes separately from other household clothing before reuse. Preserved wood should not be used where it may come into direct or indirect contact with drinking water, except for uses involving incidental contact such as fresh water docks and bridges. Do not use preserved wood under circumstances when the preservative may become a component of food, animal feed or beehives. Do not use preserved wood as mulch. Only preserved wood that is visibly clean and free of surface residue should be used. If the wood is to be used in an interior application and becomes wet during construction, it should be allowed to dry before being covered or enclosed. If you desire to apply a paint, stain, clear water repellent or other finish to your preservative-treated wood, we recommend following the manufacturer’s instructions and label of the finishing product. Before you start, we recommend you apply the finishing product to a small exposed test area before finishing the entire project to ensure it provides the intended result before proceeding.


•

•

Mold growth can and does occur on the surface of many products, including untreated and treated wood, during prolonged surface exposure to excessive moisture conditions. To remove mold from the treated wood surface, wood should be allowed to dry. Typically, mild soap and water can be used to remove remaining surface mold. For more information visit www.epa.gov. Projects should be designed and installed in accordance with federal, state and local building codes and ordinances governing construction in your area, and in accordance with the National Design Specifications (NDS) and the Wood Handbook.


Disposal Recommendations: Preserved wood may be disposed of in landfills or burned in commercial or industrial incinerators or boilers in accordance with federal, state and local regulations.


286

NOTES




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