Prof Sewing Techniques Patterns

1 Chapter 2 Chapter 4 Chapter 6 Chapter 17

To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle

notch

Front Bodice #1 cut 1 fabric on fold cut 2 with facing

1/2” extension

facing

use for: grainline layout cutting fabric pattern markings darts seams collars closures

center front fold

cut 2 interfacing

Front Bodice #2

stitch to matchpoints for dart tuck

to complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle

stitch to matchpoints for dart tucks

front bodice #2

notch

2 To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle Chapter 2 Chapter 4 Chapter 6 Chapter 17

3 To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle Chapter 2 Chapter 4 Chapter 6

Back Bodice #1

center back fold

cut here for center back seam

cut 2 fabric use for: grainline layout cutting fabric pattern markings darts seams collars

4 stitch to matchpoints for dart tuck

front bodice #2

To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle Chapter 2 Chapter 4 notch Chapter 6 Chapter 17

stitch to matchpoints for dart tucks

Back Bodice #2

5 To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle

French Curved Dart front bodice #1 cut 1

center front place on fold

Chapter 4

6 To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle

French Curved Dart

Chapter 4

7 Chapter 4

Fisheye/Contoured Dart fisheye/contoured

c.f. fold

dart cut 1 in fabric

8

Chapter 4

notch

notch

this is not the stitching line – it is a guide to show the difference between the curved stitching and straight dart line

Curved Waist Dart cut 1 in fabric

center front – place on fold

stitching line

9 Chapter 5

facing

cut 1 interfacing

fold line notch

notch

Square/Round Patch Pocket

cut 1

10 Chapter 5

opening welt pocket lining cut 1 here

Square/ Round Patch Pocket Lining cut 1 use for: welt pocket cut 1 in fabric cut 1 lining (as above)

11

Chapter 5

width

cut 2 fabric cut 1 interfacing

Pocket Flap

12

center front

Chapter 5

cut 2

Shorts Front with Angled Side Pocket

13

Chapter 5

Angled Side Pocket Lining cut 2

14 Chapter 5

ent em lac tp cke po

Angled Side Pocket cut 2

cut on fold

cut 1 on fold for gathered seam cut 1 on fold for faced ruffle cut 1 on fold for single ruffle cut 1 on fold for straight narrow rolled hem

Straight Fabric Section

cut 1 fabric here on fold for eased seam

cut here for single ruffle

Chapter 6 Chapter 10 Chapter 15

notch when cut on fold

15

To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle Chapter 6 Chapter 11

matchpoint

princess seam Bodice #1 Princess Seam Front front bodice #1 notched/lapel collar cut 2 fabric

center front

16

to complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle

17 To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle

Chapter 6 Chapter 11

Princess Seam front bodice notched/lapel collar #2

18 To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle Chapter 6 Chapter 11

Princess Seam Side Front Bodice cut 2 fabric

front bod notched/l collar #2

cut 1 fabric

Concave Curve

19 Chapter 6

cut 1 fabric

Convex Curve

20 Chapter 6

21 Chapter 6 Chapter 9 Chapter 12 Chapter 15

matchpoint

Front Skirt use for: v shaped seam waistband waist facing bias waist finish curved a line hem bias false hem

c. f. fold

cut 1 fabric

22

Chapter 6 Chapter 9 Chapter 12

Front Yoke use for: v shape seam waistband waist facing bias waist finish

ma tch

poi

nt

c. f. fold

cut 1 fabric cut 1 interfacing

23

Chapter 6 Chapter 8 Chapter 9 Chapter 12 Chapter 15

mark dart point here

Back Skirt cut 2 fabric use for: seams zippers waistband waist facing bias waist finish curved a-line hem bias false hem

24 Chapter 6

matchpoint

Godet

cut 1

25 Chapter 6

Princess Seam Strapless Front Bodice

c. f. fold

cut 1 fabric cut 2 underlining

notch

26 Chapter 6

cut 2 fabric cut 2 underlining

Princess Seam Strapless Side Front Bodice

box inverted

notch

knife

inverted

knife pleat

notch all pleats (top and bottom) notch

notch

notch

notch

box inverted

knife pleat

Pleats #1 cut 1, use for: inverted box knife

notch

To complete the pattern join pleats #1 to #2 at circle to complete pattern join pleats #1 to #2 at circle

27

notch all pleats (top and bottom) notch

notch

box inverted

knife pleat

box inverted notch

notch knife pleat

notch

box

pleat

Pleats #2 cut 1, use for: inverted box knife

notch

To complete the pattern patternjoinjoin pleats #1atto #2 at circle to complete pleats #1 to #2 circle

28

29

notch

Chapter 7 Chapter 16

matchpoint

matchpoint

Kick Pleat use for: kickpleat (cut 2 fabric) hem split (cut 2 fabric) vent cut (1 fabric w.s.u)

cut 1 for vent

fold line

cut 2 interfacing for hemsplit

notch

30 Chapter 7

matchpoint

Kick Pleat Underlay

cut 1 fabric

31 Chapter 8

matchpoint

here cut 1 side to

5” zipper length

fly Front front Fly

32 Chapter 8

Fly Front Extension cut 1 fabric

cut 1 interfacing

To complete the pattern, join waistband #1 to #2 at circle

cut 1/2 interfacing

extension

to complete the pattern, join waistband #1 to #2 at circle.

cut 1 fabric

Straight Waistband straight waistband #2 #2

cut in fabric

Straight Waistband straight waistband #1 #1

side seam

Chapter 9

cb

33

cut 1/2 interfacing

Chapter 10 Chapter 15

stitch here for nar ro w

use for: single flounce (cut 1) gathered flounce (cut 2) overlaping flounce (cut 2) mock seam (cut 1) edgestitch (cut 1) circular narrow rolled hem (cut 7)

g s in s ” a eam u allowance for flo llo wan ed ce for gather

4”

1/ 2 1/

cutting line

ro ll e

d

h

em

grainline

Flounce flounce

l n e fl c e ounce

34

35

Chapter 11

c.b. fold

Mandarin Collar

cut 2 cut 1 interfacing

36 Chapter 11

cut 2 cut 1 interfacing

c.b. fold

Shirt Collar

37

c.b. fold

Chapter 11

Notched/Lapel Upper Collar

cut 1 cut 1 interfacing

matchpoint

38

Chapter 11

Notched/Lapel Under Collar cut 2 on bias

matchpoint

39 To complete the pattern join facing #1 to #2 at circle

matchpoint

Notched Lapel Collar Facing #1 cut 2 cut 2 interfacing

1

ed/lapel facing #2

to complete the pattern join facing #1 and #2 at circle

40

cb fold

To complete the pattern join facing #1 to #2 at circle

cut 1

notched/lapel collar facing #2

to complete the p join facing #1 an

cb fold

41

Back Neck Facing cut 1

front cut 1 on fold fabric cut 1 on fold interfacing

Front Neck Facing

42 Chapter 12

c.f. fold

43

Chapter 12

Back Square Neck Facing cut 2 fabric cut 2 interfacing

44 Chapter 12

Back Waist Facing cut 2 fabric cut 2 interfacing

45

Chapter 13

cut 2 fabric

shirt sleeve placket cut this length

notches

notches

Continuous Placket

46

Chapter 13

cut 2 fabric

fold line

Shirt Sleeve Placket

47 Chapter 13

notch

tuck tuck

Tucked Shirt Sleeve cut 2 fabric

notch

cut

cuff length to here continuous placket

cuff length shirt sleeve placket

48 Chapter 13

cut 1/2 interfacing

cut 2

Cuff

49 Chapter 14

Full Size Front Armhole Eased Set-in Sleeve cut 2

50

To complete the pattern join back armhole #1 to #2 at circle Chapter 12 Chapter 14

Full Size Back Armhole #1 Eased Set-in Sleeve cut 2

51 To complete the pattern join back armhole #1 to #2 at circle

cut 2

Full Size Back Armhole #2 Eased Set-in Sleeve

Chapter 12 Chapter 14

52

match notch to shoulder seam

Front Set-in Sleeve cut 2

Chapter 14

53 Chapter 14

Back Set-in Sleeve

cut 2

54 notch

Chapter 15

matchpoint notch

Vent

vent cut 1 fabric w.s.u. foldline

interfacing cut 1

notch

55 notch

Hem Split Lining

hem split lining use for: hem split (cut 2 in lining) vent (cut 1 lining w.s.u.)

matchpoints

notch

Chapter 16

56 notch

Chapter 16

Vent vent Lining lining cut 1 w.s.u.

matchpoint

notch

right front

center front

Button and Buttonhole Placement Worksheet Shirt with Front Band and Mandarin Collar

center front

57

left front

Button and Buttonhole Placement Worksheet Shirt with No Band or Collar

right front

center front

neckline

center front

58

left front