Department of Science and Technology
PHILIPPINE TEXTILE RESEARCH INSTITUTE
Natural Dyeing of Indigenous Fibers Abaca (Musa Textiles )
MANDATE ●
●
●
Conduct applied research and development for the textile industry sector; Undertake the transfer of completed researches to end-users or via linkage units of other government agencies; Undertake technical services and provide training programs.
TRAINING ACTIVITIES
1 s t
P – aS r c t o u r i n g / B l e a c h i n g
2 n d
–P S a yr tn t h e t i c
3 r d
P– Na r a t t u r a l D
D
y e i n g
y e i n g
HOW TO DO SCOURING/BLEACHING
1. W e f i ig b h e r s 2 . C o m f p o tu r h t vee o l u o m fw e a ut e s r i l n i q g u r ao 1 :5 0 3 . C o m a p n u w d t e ic g h h e m n i ec ea : dl s e d H S S D
tr ( i Lo R
)
y d r p o eg r e o n 5x %0i d - 9 e g , / L o d s i ui l mi c - 2 a g t / e L o ad sa- 2 h g / L e t e - 0r . 5g g e / nL t
4 . B o t hi l ce o m p v uo t l eu o dm wf ea t 5 . A d ds o d a a s h s , o d i us mi l i f i b e r / m. a t e r i a l 6 . A d t hd f e i b e a r n s h d y d r po ge re b o .i l s 7 . B o f oi l 3 r 0- 4 5m i n .u t e s 8 . D r a w i n a ,as nh p d r e p n a e r ue t r
e r c a d t e t, e
r ga en n d t
o n w x ih d t e eh nse o
a . l i z a
t i o
l u
n
t i o
NEUTRALIZATION
1
.M e a ts h u se r a e m a me o o u f w n a t ut e s r i l n i q g u r a t ( i Lo R1 : 5 ) , 0 1 : 2 0o 1r : 3 . 0
2
. A d 2 dm l g/ L l a ca i c a e la t ci cai d n m d ti hx o r o t h ea nd s d c o u r e d / m b l ae t a. e c r hi a e l d
3
.S
o f a o k2 r 0m
4
.D
r at h i nse o
i n
ua rt eo so t em m
p
l u wt i o a nas ,nh d d r t y h me
e. r a a
t .e
o u
t u r i a
r g
r e l
h
Sample Calculation for (Scouring/Bleaching) W e i g h t o f m L i q u o r r a t i o V
o
l u
m
e
o
f
a t e r i= a 5l ( L R )= 1 w
t e
r= = =
y d
r o
g= e 9 n g p / eL ri t o e x r i xd = 90 0 g r a m s
a = s 2h g r a m s / L i t e = 2 0 0 g r a m s m = 2 s i gl i cr a a m t e s / L i t e
e
i g
h
t
o
f
h
W
e
i g
h
t
o
f
s o
d
a
W
e
i g
h
t
o
f
s o
d
i u
V
e o
i g l u
h - it o o n f i nc m
e
o
f
o a
m
a
W
W
k i l o g r a m s : 2 0 - (k l i tl oe gr s r a
n c e
= =
w t o f m a t e r i a l s 5 k g x 2 0 L / k g 1 0 0 l i t e r s
2 0 0 0 . 5
g
g
r a m r a m
= 5 0 g r a m t i c = a 2 c mi d l / L x =
s )
2 0 0
m
l
e1
0
x
0
L
i t
r
x
1
0
r
x
1
0
s
s / L
it e
r
x
s
1
0
0
l i t e
r s
FLOW PROCESS S o d i u m S i l A s h , - i oN n o i cn D I n d i g e n o u s A m P
W
a
t e
r
L
R
1
i c a t e , S e t e r g e F i b e r s t b o i -l 4 f 5o i n , H y d e r o x i d e
: 5
o n
d
a
3
0
t
r
r o g e n , 5 0 %
R
0
i n
s e
3
NEUTRALIZATION 2 m / LL b l e a
g
l a
c h
c i a l a c e t i c e d f i b e r s
a
c i d
R 2
0
m
i n
a
t
r o
o
m
t e
m
p
e
r a
i n s e t u r e
,
Purpose of Dyeing
•
T o
i m
•
T o
e
•
T o
i n
•
T o
c
•
T o s u r v i in v t he eg r o g l o mb a a l .r k e t
p n
o
a
r t
a
a
n
c e
t h
e
a
c r e
a
s e
t h
e
v a
l u
e
o
r
i t h
t h
e
g
r o
w
h
p
e
u
t t r a
p
w
c t i v e
w c i on mg
e
p
h
u
s t h
e e
o t i c
ei n t t i ht i eo
n
c i
What is Dyeing?
-
D
y e i i s nt h g pe r o
c o e if ms s p
a c r ot i lno o ngt r h f e i b
e.
r s
S c o u r e d / B I n d i g e n o u s
D
y e i n ( g w b i tl hu e )
d
y
e
D y e d F i b e r s
How to do Basic Dyeing?
W
e i g h
f i b e r s / m
a t e r ia l
C o m p u t e v o lu m 1 : 2 0 , 1 : 3 0 o r
e
o f w 1 : 5 0 .
a t e r
C o m
e a s u r e
t h e
p u t e
a n d
m
u s i n g a m
t h
o u n t
R e c i p e : B a s i w i t G la u G la c
c - x d % y e( w h e q u a b s ea rl t ’ s ( S i a l A c – e2
e i g h t l a m o u o d i u - m1 t mi c l /A L c
o f f i b e r / m n t o f 4 0 % 0 S g u / l Lf a t e ) i d
a a
M
e a s u r e
A m
d g d l a c a i ac el at ic c . i Sd o am k a t e i rn t i ah lse o l u t f i oo 1rn 0 i n u t e s
A
d d - dp i r s e s o l v e d
B r i n g
a m
t h e
o u n t
o f
d y e . S
s o lu t i o n
t o
w
a t e r
n e e d e d .
t i r . b o i l.
A d pd r - de i s s o gl v l ae ud b o e r rc ’ os m m s ao . lnMt b o i l ti ne gm p e rf ao 3tr u-0 4 r 5me i n u . t e s
a i n t ha ie n
D
a t e r
N m
r a i n , w
a s h , r i n s e
u n t i l w
i s
o : t T e o h a v a e l e v de yl e io n r gt o a v o ui dn e v d e y n e i n t g a , k o e u t h e a t e i nr e i va el a r d y d i to if do yn eo src h e m i c a l
c le
Sample Calculation for Production (Basic Dyeing) W e i g h t o f m L i q u o r r a t i o V
o
l u
m
e
o
f
a t e r i= a 5l ( L R )= 1 w
a
t e
W
e
i g g h l a t uo bsf ae
rl t ’ s
W
e
i g
h
t
o
f g
l a
W
e
i g
h
t
o
f d
y e
W
e
i g
h
t
o
f 4
0
r= = = = =
k i l o g r a m s : 2 0 ( k i- l io t eg rr )a
m
w t o f m a t e r i a l s 5 k g x 2 0 k g / L 1 0 0 l i t e r s 1 0 g / L it e r x 1 0 0 0 g r a m s
l= a 2 c me t l i /c / L a i ct e i d r x = 2 0 0 m l ( 2 =. 5 2 % . 5 ) % / 1 0 0 x
1
c i a
%
s
= 1 2 5 a = c e1 2t i 5c
g ga
r a m cr a i d m
s s
0 1
5
x
0 0
0
0 0
0
Flow Process for Basic Dyeing G
d
1 W a g l a t o p i n d
0
y e
m
s t u
l a
f f
i n
t e r ( L R 1 : 5 0 ) c i a l a c e t i c a c i d - 5H 4 i g e n o u s f i b e r s
u
b
e
3 -04
r ’ s
5
m
s a
l t
i n
a
t
b
o
i l
R
i n
s e
What is Color matching?
C
o l mo f o r m us s a m pb l o b t a i t nh
r a t c ih s ti nh gse l ha at e d b e y / u s s ye u / s i nt h g et r iden e g s is r he ad
y s t we mh e ry e o i cun a n i ns gm aq l ul a n t o i t f i e s i aa l n ed r r om r e t h i n o d .d e / s
T ov i s u
ac lo i z ls oe h r a hd e ars e r s e o
F r o m
P r im
mc o e lc o o r m
a r y
b
i n t o ac t o i o n n s: si
T C o o l So re s c o n d a
+ r e d
v i o l e t
b l u e
+ r e d
o r a n g e
y e l l o w
+ b l u e N
o
t e
t h
g r e e n
y e l l o w a
t
i n
t h
i s
p
a
r t i c
u
Nl a O r
c S o p l oe rc ic f io c mo P f b e e i r n ac a ce t hn i o t can og s .
Procedures on Color matching
1
. P r e p s a t or esc ok l u t oi o fd n y s e s t t ou b f e fu s s m a t c ( h e i xn a g : m 1 %p sl e t o sc ok l u mt i o e n : a d y e st o tb u ed f fi s s i o n 1 l v 0 em 0 w l a . t e r )
2
. P r e ps ae r v e se ar am l f p o cl r e o s lm o r a t c f hr o i tn mh gme t o b eu s ie n dd y e o i n pr gr o d u. c t i o n
3
. C o m f p o ut r h t eae u x i l i aa nr di de y s e s i t n u a f c f sc o f o r m g ui v l f ea o ne r a c oh lo o tf rh d e e s si r he ad. d e
4
.C
5
.M e a vs ou l r u oe m cf o e m u s i p n i gp e . t t e s
o m
v p o u l ut oe m wf
ea st e i n rl i gq
u r ao
ef o d Cr o l o n1 g s r a o m f a
t e
r
r dt o a
rt ( i Lo R1 : 1 ) 0 . 0
p d u y t e e s df tr u o t f mhf s e t o s c o k l u
t
6 . A d v d o l u o m fm e e a s d u y r e e s da t un s fd fu s b c o m pv ou lt ue o mdwf ea . t e r c t oed ey de p i n r og c. e
t i rt f a r co t tmh
e
7. P
r o
s s
•
A
f td e r r y ic n o g m ,
9
. R e p t r e i aa o lt af s d j u s o t mof n ed e ny et sa tf ut t e hf fro e t h u e n r t s u tc i mh r ee s w u bi l l t l et h s e a mw ie t t hh d e e s si r he a.d d e
1
0F . i n r ea cl mi p ue b s ef ti l l ef o dr r e
r p e a s r wu e l i tst s h w
f e
a. t c
r .e
n
h
c e
s
Sample Calculation for Color matching Example
:
Apple Green
Use
:
Stock solution – 1.0% each dyes Weight of sample – 10 grams Liquor ratio – 1:100
Recipe
:
Astrazon Blue A-BG – 0.10% Astrazon Yellow A-8GL – 0.50% 0 .50%
Computations
:
Blue – 0.10%/100% x wt. Sample x stock solution therefore 0.001 x 10 gms x 100 ml water/1 gm blue dye = 1 ml Yellow – 0.50%/100% x 10 gms x 100 ml water/ 1 gm yellow dye = 5 ml
Total Dyestuffs :
6 ml
Volume
100 ml – 6 ml
:
= 94 ml (actual volume of water)
NATURA NA TURAL L DYEIN YEING G (3 Steps) How to Do the Extraction? 1. Choppe Chopped d or grind grind the the dye dye sour source ce (ex. (ex. Dulaw). Dulaw). 2. Weigh. 3. Comput Compute e and and meas measure ure the vo volume lume of wate waterr using using liquor ratio 1:30. 1. Boi Boill the chopp chopped/ ed/gri grind nd dye dye source source in in the water water.. 2. Filte ilterr and and se sett as aside. ide.
How to Do the Mordanting? 1. Weigh eigh the the mate materi rial als. s. 2. Comput Compute e and and weigh weigh the the mord mordant ant (ex. (ex. Alum, Alum, CuSO CuSO4 & FeSO4 ) to be used. Mordant is 5% on the weight of the materials. 3. Comput Compute e and measu measure re the volu volume me of water water usin using g liquor liquor rati ratio o 1:30. 4. Boi Boill the the water water.. Add Add the the mordan mordant. t. 5. Soak the materia materials ls in the the solution. solution. Boil for for 30 min. Stir Stir.. 6. Drain Drain and and set set asid aside e the mordan mordanted ted mate materia rials. ls.
How to Do Natural Dyeing? 1. Soa Soak k the mordan mordanted ted mate materia riall in the the dye dye extr extrac act. t. 2. Boil the mater material ial in in the dye extract extract for 15 15 minutes minutes or longer longer depending on the dye source. 3. Drai Drain, n, wash wash and and dry dry..
LISTS OF SOME IDENTIFIED DYE SOURCES B
o t a n i c a l N
A
c h
B
u l u
u
D
u
H
a w
I n
h
d
a m
e t e
b
u
l u
a t
i g o
a m
K
a p
L
u
a m
L
u
y
S
i b
u
a c h i l l e
N
B
i x ao r e l l a n
E B
v o d i a l a n c o
b
in
a n D g
i l a w
a o / S
T a l i s a y
a p a n
a m
e
aL .
t o k
m
P
a r t s U
s e e d
o
in i
s
o lo r
it
I m
g r a y ,b r o w n , y e ll o w i s h b r o w
a r k
b r o w
n
l e a v e s
b
l a c k g, r a y
I n d ig o f e r a t i n c t o r i a l
l e a v e s
b
l u
P i t h c e l l o b iu m d u l c e( R o x b )
b
a r k
b r o w
b
a r k
p i n k t o b r o w n
r a
L
.
T e c t o n ag r a n d i sL .
l e a v e s
C L
r h
u r c u i n n.
m
C a s e s a l p s a p p a nL .
p a r t s
l i g h t o r a n g e , y e ll o w o r a n g e
l e a v e s
b
C
s e d
F i c u s s e p t i c a u r m . F . v a r . s e p t i c a
C e i b a p e n t a n d G a e r t n .
o k
k
S c i e n t i f i c
S y z ig i u mc u L . S k e e l s
i l i
K
e
e
n
L i g h t v i o l e t
p
b
i n k
r o
w
i s h
n
,
al o n g g a
in
T e r m i n a l ia c a t a p p aL .
i z o m
i a w
o o
d
l e a v e s
e s
y e l l o w p u r p l e / v i o l e t , m a r o o n , p i n k , p e a c h b
l a c k g, r a y
n
T O A
f f i c eD
h
a n
e :p a r t m
k
e n t o f
Y
o
S c ie n c e
u a n d
P h ilip p in e T e x t ile R e s e a r c h d d :r e s s : G e n S a n t o s A v e . B i c u t a n T e l e f a x8 3: - 17 3 2 5 ; - 18 33 37 8 ; - 18 1 3 5 7 7 U
R
L :
E
m
a :i l
h t t p ://w p t r i@
w
w .p tr i.d o s t. g o v .p d o s t .g o v .p h
