murphybed-dn1117

Plans

N O W ®

www.plansnow.com

SPACE-SAVING

MURPHY BED

A

Murphy bed can transform a home office into a guest bedroom at a moment's mome nt's notice. notice. Wh What at mak makes es thi thiss quick conversion possible is a specialized hardware kit (manufactured by Create-A-Bed) that pulls the bed up into a cabinet.

From Workbench All rights reserved

Magazine

Even with the specialized specialized hardware, hardware, building a Murphy Murph y bed is, admitt admittedly edly,, no small underundertaking. But the woodwo woodworking rking techniques involved inv olved are fairly straightforward, straightforward, and our construction tips take “Murphy’ “Murphy’ss Law” out of this Murphy bed project.

page 1 of 17

©2005 August Home Publishing One copy for personal use. Other copies prohibited.

Construction Details Overall Dimensions: 577 / 8" W x 78 5 / 8" D x 843 / 8" H (Open) 577 / 8" W x15 7 / 8" D x 843 / 8" H (Closed)

Cabinet mounts to wall and houses bed frame in the closed position

Pivot Plates allow the bed frame to fold up into the cabinet

Stop keeps bottom of bed frame flush with front of cabinet

Hydraulic Piston makes it easy for one person to open and close the bed

Support Panels create a flat, even platform for the mattress

Spring Mechanism engages and disengages latch that locks bed in cabinet Bed Frame holds mattress and presents a decorative facade when bed is folded up into cabinet

Spring-Loaded Spring-Loade d Latch secures the bed frame inside the cabinet

Nylon Strap Handle releases latch and provides a comfortable grip when pulling bed down

Leg pivots down to support the bed when in use

HOW IT WORKS

Cabinet Side

Male Pivot Plate

Bed Frame From Workbench All rights reserved

Piston

Lower Ball Stud Plate

The key to this Murphy bed’s operation is the specialized hardware. Keep in mind that the details of this design are specific to the Create-A-Bed hardware kit we purchased from Rockler (vertical installation for a full-sized mattress). The main hardware pieces in the kit are the pivot plates, pistons, and ball stud plates (see Illustration).

There are two pairs of pivot plates in the Murphy bed kit.

Each pair includes a male and female pivot plate. These connect the bed frame to the cabinet and allow the bed to fold up and down. Two hydraulic pistons help control the descent of the bed and also aid in lifting the bed back into the storage cabinet. Each of the pistons snaps onto two ball stud plates, which are installed on the cabinet side and the bed frame.

Female Pivot Plate

Magazine

page 2 of 17


build the basic

BED FRAME Pipe Coupler Face Panels (edge-joined with splines)

Use couplers to extend your pipe clamps when edge-gluing the face panel. An over-andunder arrangement of clamps prevents bowing. {

The first step to building this Murphy bed is to make a frame to hold a full-sized mattress. mattress. It consists of a large inner inner frame, a two-piece plywood plyw ood face panel, panel, and four bed bed rails (Bed Frame Assembly, Assembly, below) below).. The Build the Inner Inner Frame Frame — — The inner frame is composed of five Lshaped struts held in place by two frame sides (Bed Frame Detail). Detail) . Constructio Const ruction n is simple.Fir simple.First, st, cut ten strut pieces (A) to size and glue them into their L-shaped configurations. Then cut the frame sides (B) to size and screw them to the struts.

Add the Face Face Panel Panel — — With With the inner frame complete,you complete, you can focus on the plywood face panel.This is the bottom of the bed frame, which means it’s the “show” “show”face face of the bed when folded up in the cabinet. The face panel is wider than a sheet of plywood, plywood, so it’s it’s made by edge-gluing two panels (C).T (C).To o align these panels during glue-up glue-up,, I used 1 a /4" hardboard spline that fits into a slot in the inner edge of each piece (Spline Detail). Detail). A handheld handheld router router 1 and a /4" slot-cutting bit make quick work of cutting this slot.

Spline Detail

Bed Frame Detail

BED FRAME ASSEMBLY ASSEMBL Y

Slot Detail

!/4" slot, !/2" deep

!/2"

a

!/4" !/4" !/4"

Slot in face panel C

Sand Sa nd a !/4" roundover on edge


Magazine

Spline (!/4" har hardb dboa oard rd x !%/16" x 75")

page 3 of 17

C


Before gluing up the face panel, there’s one last detail to attend to. That’s cutting a small slot in each panel for a nylon strap, which is part of the latch release mechanism (Slot Detail).. I used a plunge router Detail) router with an edge guide, and then routed routed the slots with a 3/8" spiral bit. bit. Then I sanded the edges of the slots to keep the strap from fraying (Detail a). a). Now you’re ready to glue the panels together — provided you have enough enoug h long clamps. clamps. If not, you can can “stretch” “stretc h” you yourr clamps by using the tip shown on page 3. Once you’ve you’ve rounded rou nded up the clamps, clamps, brush glue into the groov grooves, es, insert the spline,and clamp the face panel together. Attach Face Panel to Frame — When the glue glue dries, it’ it’ss time to attach the face panel to the inner frame.To frame.T o do that, set the face panel on a flat surface with its “show”side “show”side down.Then attach the frame with glue and screws (Bed Frame Detail). Detail). Make the the Bed Frame Frame Rails — The next step is to surround the inner frame and face panel with four bed rails made from 3/4"-thick maple. Start by cutting the head rail

(D), foo foott rail (E), (E), and side side rails (F) That done,follow done, follow the step-by-step step-by-step to size. installation process detailed in the Add Latch Shims — If — If you look Illustration below to mount the hardat the Side Rail Illustration below, ware ware.. Note that you’ll need to drill a you’ll see that there’s there’s a wood shim hole to accept the female pivot plate. (G) attached to the outer face of Also, it’ it’ss important to install the ball each side rail.This shim ensures the stud plate so the stud is 5/16" above the proper spacing between the bed top of the rail (Ball Stud Detail).Later, Detail).Later, frame and the wall wall cabinet, which this will allow clearance for the piston is required for the latch to operate. to snap onto the stud.I made a spacer The latch shim is a thin strip of to ensure proper clearance. hardwood that tapers toward one All Attach the Bed Bed Rails Rails — — All end. Drill a hole hole in the shim shim to that’s needed to complete the bed accept the latch.Then sand the taper frame is to attach the rails.The side using a belt/disk sander.The shim is rails go on first. Align these rails so simply glued to to the side rail. rail. Once they’re flush with the inner frame the glue dries, take the side rail to the on the ends. Then drive screws drill press and extend the hole in through the inner frame and into the shim through the rail. the side rails. Now attach the head At this point, you’ you’re re ready to start and foot rails to the side rails using mounting the hardware that makes woodscr woodscrews ews and finish washers. this Murphy bed operate. operate. In particular, After completing the assembly, you’ll be mounting a female pivot there’ there’ss one final detail deta il to take care of. plate and a lower ball stud plate to You You need to extend the latch hole each side rail. One thing to be aware aware that you drilled in the shim and side of here is that the side rails are mirror rail through the inner frame (Latch images of each other. So you’ll want want Hole Detail ).An ).An easy ea sy way to do that that to label the inside and outside faces of is use the existing hole as a guide. guide. Just each rail to make sure the hardware chuck a Forstner bit in a portable gets mounted on the correct side. drill and drill the hole.

SIDE SI DE RA RAIL IL

Latch Hole Detail

Ball Stud Detail Lower Ball Stud Plate

Stud

%/16"

LATCH SHIM

Spacer


Magazine

page 4 of 17


add a decorative face &

FLIP-DOWN LEG

a

Leg Assembly

Bed Frame (bed folded up)

A leg assembly pivots down from the frame to support the bed during use. {

Upper Stile Detail

1&/8"

Face Panel

N

Leg (#/4" x 7#/4" x 51")

Wood Wood Plug

E

O

Pivot Rail (#/4" x 2!/4" x 51!/2")

!/4"

Steel Pin, 3" long

!/4" hole

!/4"

M

Bed Frame

Upper Stile (#/4" x 2!/4" x 45&/ 16")

M

Face Frame Detail

L

Ledge (#/4" x 1!/2" x 56")

M

Face Panel

!/4"

L J

Build the Lower Lower Face Frame Frame — The lower face frame is sized to overhang the bed frame by 1/4" on each side (Face Frame Detail).With Detail).With that in mind, start by cutting the top and bottom rails (H, I) and side stiles (J) of the face frame. Then drill pocket holes in the rails and assemble the frame (Pocket Screw Detail). Detail). Now cut the field stiles (K) to fit between the rails and attach with pocket screws. The final piece of the lower face frame is a hardwood hardwood ledge (L). Simply cut this ledge to size and then glue and clamp it to the top rail. Now you’re you’re ready to attach attac h the face frame.To frame.T o do this, glue and clamp it in place, taking care to maintain that overoverhang I mentioned earlier.

TRIM & LEG ASSEMBLY

Upper Stile #/4"

As I mentioned,the mentioned, the face panel of the bed frame is the “sho “show” w” side of this Murphy bed. So to make make it as attractive as possible, possible, I applied decorativ decorativee trim pieces to the the face panel. One of these these trim pieces is also functional. functional. It’ It’ss part of a leg assembly that sits si ts flat on top of the bed frame when it’ it’ss folded up, up, then swings down for support when you pull the bed out of the cabinet (see Photo left). left). The trim pieces, inclu including ding the the leg assembly,, are all made from assembly from 3/4"-thick hardwood. They’ They’re re attached in three phases.First, a lower lower face frame is applied as a single unit (T (Trim rim & Leg Assembl Assembly). y). Then two upper stiles are added on. Finally,, the pivoting leg assembly is conFinally nected to the stiles.

H

Face Panel

Top Rail (#/4" x 2!/4" x 51!/2")

H

Lower Face Frame

Pocket Screw Detail Face Frame Top Rail H

J

Stile


K

Field Stile

1!/4" Pocket Screw

Magazine

J

Side Stile (#/4" x 2!/4" x 31!/ 16")

15#/16"

I

Bottom Rail (#/4" x 3!/2" x 51!/2")

K

Field Stile (#/4" x 2" x 25%/ 16")

page 5 of 17


The Upper Stiles — The — The upper stiles (M) are next,and these pieces are about as simple as they get,except get, except for one small detail.When the bed is complete,the complete, the support leg will pivot on steel pins that connect the leg assembly ass embly to the upper stiles.You’ll install those pins later, later, but you you need to make accommodations for them now. To do that, you’ll need to drill a 1/ " hole through each stile for the 4 pin (Upper Stile Detail). Detail). Carefully lay out the location of each hole and drill it at the drill press. With that done, glue and clamp the stiles to the face panel. Pay attenattention to a couple things things here. here. First, make sure that both stiles overhang the same amount ( 1/4") as the lower l ower face frame.Then measure between the stiles at the top and bottom to be sure they’re parallel. Support Leg — Despite — Despite its “pivotal” rol rolee in supporting supporting the bed, the leg assembly is still a simple build. It’ It’ss comprised of two pieces:the leg itself and a pivot rail (Support Leg L eg Assembly) Assembly).. Start by cutting the leg (N) to size.Then lay out and cut the curved “lift” with a jig saw. saw. The next step is to cut the pivot rail (O) to size. Note that it’s it’s 1/2" longer than the leg, which creates creates a 1/ " overhang on each side (Pivot Rail 4 Detail).This Detail) .This provides clearance to keep the leg from rubbing against the stiles. For a similar reason, reason, you’ll need to rout a bullnose profile on one Detail). edge of the pivot rail (Bullnose Detail). This profile allows the leg assembly to pivot freely without binding against the bed frame. After shaping the edge of the pivott rail on the router table,simply pivo glue and clamp it to the leg. Attach the the Support Support Leg — — In In order to mount the support leg assembly using the pivot pins mentioned earlier, you’ll have to drill holes in the pivot rail that align with those in the upper stiles. To do this accurately, position the leg assembly between the stiles and temporarily clamp it to the bed frame in the closed position.Then, position.Then,using using the holes in the stiles as a guide, drill the holes in the pivot rail (Fi (Figg. 1) 1).. No Now w tap tap From Workbench All rights reserved

Magazine

SUPPOR SUPP ORTT LE LEG G ASSEMBLY ASSEMBL Y

Foot Rail

!/2" Rare-Earth

Magnet 1!/8"

Cup Upper Stile

Pivot Rail

%/8" counterbore, !/4" deep

R=1!/2"

Leg

Strike-Plate (Washer)

%/8" counterbore, !/16" deep

!/4" hole

4!/2"

1!/2"

NOTE: Drill counterbore in foot rail first, then use a dowel center to locate matching counterbore on leg

Pivot Rail Detail

Bullnose Detail #/8" Fence Roundover Bit

Pivot Rail Leg

Pivot Rail

!/4"

the pins through the stiles and into (Figg. 2) 2).. Once that’ the pivot rail (Fi that’ss done, glue in wood wood plugs to conceal the holes. Add a Magne Magnetic tic Catch — — T To keep the support leg from swinging out unexpectedly when lowering the bed, I added a magnetic catch. catch. It’ It’ss comprised of a rare-earth cup magnet and a strike plate (washer). These parts fit into shallow pockets that are formed by drilling counterbores in the foot rail and leg (Support Leg Assembly) Assembly).. An easy way to align the counterbores is to use a dowel center. This is a metal pin that you insert into a dowel dowel hole. It has a sharp spur which is used to locate the exact center in a mating piece. To use the dowel center on the bed, drill a counterbore counterbore in the foot rail. Then insert the dowel dowel center and close the leg against the foot rail to mark the location of the strike plate. Now drill the counterbore counterbore in the leg and install the catch. page 6 of 17

1

Leg

2

NOTE: Tap pin into place, then glue in wood plug

Pivot Rail Foot Rail

!/4" x 3" pin,

(cut from !/4" steel rod)

Plug Upper Stile


build an open wall cabinet TO HOUSE THE BED The bed frame is housed in a large wall-mounted cabinet that’s open in front and back (Cabinet Construction). Construction). What’s unusual about this cabinet is it has to be assembled around around the the bed frame.That’s because of how the pivot plates in the Murphy bed hardware kit fit together.So, together. So,while while you can make the cabinet parts par ts in your shop, you’ll yo u’ll actually actually assemble assemble them in the room as you install the bed. Start with the Sides — The first step is to cut the sides (P) to size from 3/4" plywood.Then glue long strips of 3/4"-thick hardwood edging (Q) to the front edge of each side to cover cov er the exposed ex posed plywood.

Now it’s time to mount the rest of the bed hardware.This includes the male pivot plates,the plates, the upper ball stud plates,and a pair of stops (Side Detail). Detail). You’ll Y ou’ll need to drill three three holes in the inside face of each side to accept this hardware.Here hardware.Here again, the cabinet sides are mirror mir ror images of each other. So be sure to label the inside and outside faces to avoid getting them mixed up.Then drill the holes and mount the hardware as shown. Build a Headboard — The next step is to add the headboard (R). Like the sides,it’ sides, it’ss a 3/4" plywood panel with hardwood edging (S) on the top and bottom.This time, how however ever,,

I used 1/4"-thick strips so the long, horizontal joint lines between the edging and the headboard would practically disappear. The headboard will be attached to the sides of the cabinets with pocket screws (Headboard Detail, page 8).. To simplify assembly later on, 8) drill pocket holes for the screws now. Topping It Off — — Building Building the top of the cabinet is next. next. It consists 3 of a /4" plywood top panel with 3/ "-thick hardwood end cleats (U) 4 and rails (V).Note (V). Note that the end cleats are narrower narrower than the rails. Start by gluing the end cleats to the top of the plywood top panel, flush with the front and back edges. Then glue on the rails so they’re flush with the tops of the cleats. Bottom Trim Board — The — The

CABINET CONSTRUCTION

Side Detail V

#8 x 1!/4" Fh Woo Woods dscr crew ew

Front/Back Rail (#/4" x 2#/4" x 56#/8")

U

End Cleat (#/4" x 1!/2" x14#/8")

Bed Stop

T

Top Panel (#/4" ply. x 14#/8" x 56#/8")

P

Side

Q

Side Edging (#/4" x #/4" x 84#/8")

P

Headboard (#/4" ply. x 15!/2" x 56#/8")

30° bevel 4"

W S

Bottom Trim Board (#/4" x 4" x 56#/8")

Male Pivot Plate

NOTE: Rip 30° bevel along top edge (see Bevel Detail)

5"

%/8" hole, !/2" deep

10#/4"

Machine Screw

#10 x #/4" Fh Woodscrew Wood screw

Upper Ball Stud Plate

7!/4"

Stop

Headboard Edging (!/4" x #/4" x 56#/8")

Side (#/4" ply. x 15!/8" x 84#/8")

Bevel Detail

#8 x %/8" Panhead Screw

!/4" x %/8"

R

S

%/16" hole, !/2" deep

Upper Ball Stud Plate

Male Pivot Plate 5!/2"

!/4" x %/8"

!/4" T-Nut

Machine Screw

!/4" T-Nut

33#/16"

#12 x #/4" Fh Woodscrew Wood screw

%/8" hole, !/2" deep

13#/16"

Bottom Trim Board

#/4"


Magazine

page 7 of 17


final piece of the cabinet is a bottom Then I painted the upper part of the trim board (W) made from 3/4"-thick panel to match the walls. hardwood.Notice the bevel on the top Preparing for Installation — Once Once inside edge of this piece (Bevel Detail, the finish is dry dr y, you can move move the bed page 7) 7).. It creates clearance for the bed pieces into the room. room. An extra set of frame to swing in and out. Rip this hands will be useful for much of the bevel on the table saw. saw. Then once installation process, so round round up up a again, drill pocket holes that that will be helper helper,, too too.. Position the bed frame with used to secure the trim board to the the face panel down and the head rail cabinet. facing the wall. Prop the frame off the Apply Appl y the Finis Finish h — — Before Before floor with boards to keep it from teemoving the bed from the shop to the tering on the ledge of the face frame room where it’s going to be installed, (Cabinet Assembly). Assembly). you’ll want want to apply the the finish. Assemble the Cabinet — Now — Now Just a note about the finish. Since you’re you’re ready to assemble assemble the Murphy the face panel of this bed is so large, bed.The cabinet sides mount to the you may want to use the finis finish h to bed frame first.To first.To accomplish this, fit “break” it up a bit.To bit.To help disguise the rod in the pivot plate on each side the bed, I used the clear finish finish on into the pivot plate in the bed frame the lower lower part of the panel, the face (Side Mount Detail).Then Detail) .Then snap the Eframe, and the upper trim boards. boards. clip included in the kit over the rod

to secure the connection. Next, attac attach h the top by by driving screws through the end cleats into the sides (T (Top op Mount Detail) Detail).Then .Then mount the headboard between the sides with pocket screws (Headboard Detail). Detail). Finally Finally,, clamp the bottom trim board in place (beveled (bev eled edge facing in), and attach it with pocket screws.

Snap an E-clip over the pivot rod to connect the sides of the cabinet to the bed frame. {

CABINET CABI NET ASSE ASSEMBL MBLY Y

Side Mount Detail

D

Male Pivot Female Plate Pivot Plate

Side

Side E

Assembled Bed Frame Frame (face panel down)

E-Clip Pivot Rod NOTE: Snap E-Clip onto pivot rod to fasten sides to bed frame

FIRST: Fit pivot plates together as side goes on and secure with E-clip Elevate bed frame with long boards (Side Mount Detail)

Top Mount Detail

Headboard

#8 x 1!/4" Fh Fh Woo Woodsc dscrew rew

THIRD: Attach headboard with pocket screws (Headboard Detail)

End Cleat

Top Rail Top Panel

Side

Headboard Detail 1!/4" Pock Pocket et Scr Screw ew Headboard

Assembled Top

16"

Side Side

SECOND: Screw

top to cabinet (Top Mount Detail)

Side 1!/4" Pock Pocket et Sc Scre rew w


Magazine

page 8 of 17

FOURTH: Secure bottom trim board with pocket screws


installing the bed &

#10 x 2!/2" Fh Woodscrew Wood screw Wall Stud

FINAL DETAILS

Top T

Drywall Back Rail

Wall Stud Drywall

Wall Stud

Cabinet

R

#10 x 2!/2 " Fh Woodscrew Headboard NOTE: Remove baseboard or notch cabinet to fit Cabinet Side Baseboard

Latch Release Handle X

Cord & Cable Tie

Mattress Support Panels Latch (!/4" ply ply. x 27" 27" x 75" 75")) Shim

Latch

FINAL ASSEMBLY ASSEMBL Y

INSTALLA INST ALLATION TION TIP > The pistons that control the descent of the bed mount on the ball stud plates on the bed frame and cabinet sides. To attach the piston, remove the bed stops and tilt the bed frame into the cabinet (left).


Magazine

With the cabinet assembled around the frame, we come to the final installation installation of the Murphy bed. For this, you’ll need to get your helper to assist ass ist in i n raising rais ing the assembly to an upright position a couple feet away from the wall the bed will occupy occupy.. Install the Pistons Pistons — — The The first step is to install the hydraulic pistons that help control the bed’s descent.The ends of these pistons are designed to snap onto the ball studs on the bed frame and cabinet sides. Now you might expect to have to compress the pistons (or pull them apart) to get them them to fit. But as easy as that sounds, you absolutely absolutely will not be able to do that manually. manually. So instead, you’ll have have to manipulate the bed to fit the pistons, instead of the other way around. around. To do that, temporari temporarily ly remove remove the bed stops you installed installed earlier.This lets you you tilt the bed frame into the cabinet so the ball studs are the right disBed Frame Mattress tance apart.About three Strap inches of inward tilt is all it takes (see Installation Tip,, below left). Tip left). Now,, stand behind Now the cabin cabinet, et, orient each piston with the indicated end up, up, and snap the ends ends into place over the ball studs. Mount the Bed on the Wall — — That That pretty much completes the bed. bed . Now you’re you’re ready to mount it to the wall.To wall.To get it to sit flat against the wall, you’ll need to either remove the baseboard or scribe the cabinet to fit around it (Baseboard Detail). Detail). Once that’s that’s done, set the bed against the wall and check it for plumb.When it’s plumb,dr ive screws through the back rail in the top of the cabinet and into wall studs (Mounting Detail).Then Detail).Then lower the bed frame and drive screws through the headboard and into the studs (Headboard Detail). Detail). By locating the screws near the bottom bottom of the headboard, they won’t won’t be visible when the bed is folded down. Installing the Latches — The — The final step in making this bed functional is installing the spring-loaded latches that come with the kit and a shop-made release handle. Installing the latches is easy. easy. Just push each one into the hole in the shim on the side of the bed (Latch Detail). Detail). The latches should sit flush with the face of the shim. Now,, you’ll need to make the handle that’s Now that’s used to release the latches and pull down the bed (Latch Release Handle Assembly). Assembly). It starts with a nylon strap that threads threads through the the slots in the face panel. Each end of this strap is epoxied between two washers.When the epoxy has set up, drill a hole through the nylon strap in the center of

page 9 of 17


the washers for a machine screw and nut that hold the handle together. together. Then drill a smaller hole to connect the spring that provides tension for the latch system. To complete the handle assembly assembly,, install a machine screw and nut into the center of each pair of washers, and hook the spring into the smaller hole.Then tie the cord from the latch through the end of the spring. Adjust the length of cord so that the spring just starts to pull, and reinforce the the knot with a cable tie. Drill Latch Catches — The — The latches rest in “catches” “catches” in the cabinet sides to provide a secure hold on the bed when it’s folded up.These catches are nothing more than counterbores that are easy to locate accurately by following the sequence shown in Figures 1 through 3, below. Finall Details Fina Details — — Only Only a couple minor details remain. 1 First Fi rst,, cu cutt /4" plywood support panels (X) for the mattress to rest on and set them in the bed frame (Final Assembl Asse mblyy, pag pagee 9) 9). Next, attach the mattress mattress straps straps included in the kit. Take care to position them so they don’t interferee with the latches. interfer latches. Finally Finally,, set the mattress mattress in place.

LATCH RELEASE HANDLE #/16" Rh Machine Screw, !/2" lo long ASSEMBLY ASSEMBL Y

Latch Release Handle (1" Nylon Strap, 10" long)

Strut #/16"

Fender Washer

Face Panel

Cable Tie

!/16" hole, !/16" from edge

#42 Servalite Spring

Cord from latch

Release Handle Detail Dri rillll #/16" ho hole le th thrroug ughh strap for machine screw

Release Handle passes through slot Face Panel

INSTALLING THE LATCH

1

2

SpringLoaded Latch

FIRST:

3

SECOND: Set a

combination square to match center of latch

Mark latch location on front edge of cabinet side

Bed Frame

a

hole, !/2" deep

THIRD

Transfer layout lines to inside face of cabinet side, then locate center of latch

Latch Shim

Cabinet Side

FORTH: Drill &/8"

Cabinet Side (inside face)

MATERIAL MA TERIALSS & HARDW HARDWARE ARE A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O

Par t Bed Frame

Qty

Inner Frame Struts Inner Frame Sides Face Panels Head Rail Foot Rail Side Rails Shims Top Rail Bottom Rail Side Stiles Field Stiles Face Frame Ledge Upper Trim Stiles Leg Pivot Rail

10 2 2 1 1 2 2 1 1 2 3 1 2 1 1

T #/4" #/4" #/4" #/4" #/4" #/4" !/4" #/4" #/4" #/4" #/4" #/4" #/4" #/4" #/4"

W 1!/2" 1!/2" 27" 8%/8" 6%/8" 6%/8" 1!/2" 2!/4" 3!/2" 2!/4" 2" 1!/2" 2!/4" 7#/4" 2!/4"

L 52!/2" 75" 75" 55!/2" 55!/2" 75" 6" 51!/2" 51!/2" 31!/16" 25%/16" 56" 45&/16" 51" 51!/2"

Material Maple Maple Maple Plywood Maple Maple Maple Maple Maple Maple Maple Maple Maple Maple Maple Maple


S T U V W X

Qty Headboard Edging 2 Top Panel 1 End Cleats 2 Front/Back Rails 2 Bottom Trim Boards 1 Mattress Support Panels 2

T !/4" #/4" #/4" #/4" #/4" !/4"

W #/4" 14#/8" 1!/2" 2#/4" 4" 27"

L 56#/8" 56#/8" 14#/8" 56#/8" 56#/8" 75"

Material Maple Maple Plywood Maple Maple Maple Maple Plywood

Murpy Bed Extras Cutting WorkbenchMagazine.com *Item available at 800-279-4441, Diagram www.Rockler.com www.Rockler .com NLINE

Cabinet P Sides Q Side Edging R Headboard

Par t

2 2 1

Magazine

#/4" #/4" #/4"

15!/8" #/4" 15!/2"

84#/8" Maple Plywood 84#/8" Maple 56#/8" Maple Plywood

page 10 of 17


custom-fit

DISPLAY CASES

T

hese maple display cases are be covered by the bed. a perfect “side project” project” to the The next step is to add two Murphy Murph y bed on page 1. By mounting cleats (D) which are used filling the openings between to attach the cases to the wall.These the bed and the wall, wall, the display cases cleats are installed inside the cabinet create an elegant built-in look. — one below the top top and the other other Sizing the Cases — Actually, belo below w the fixed shelf. Moun Mountt the the cases don’t fill the openings cleats by driving drivi ng screws through the entirely entir ely.. Each case case is 1" narrower narrower than than sides. its opening (see Sizing the Case on To complet completee the case, drill holes page 12) 12).. This will make make it easy to fit for the pins that hold the glass shelves. the case into the opening if the walls Face Frames — — The The next step is aren’t straight straight or plumb.Of plumb.Of course, cour se, this to add two face frames to the front means the case won’t fit tightly of the case. These frames will be against the wall,but wall, but any gaps will get scribed to fit against the wall.That covered by a face frame. means they have to start out a bit Case Construction — After wider than the opening for the case. cas e. 1 establishing establishin g the case width, you can I made mine /4" wider than the get started on the sides (A).These opening, opening,as as shown shown in Sizing the Case . 3 are tall, narro narrow w panels made of /4" To simplify construction, the face plywood. plyw ood. To hold the top, bottom, frames are assembled with pocket and fixed shelf (B), you’l you’lll need to cut screws.The lower frame consists of a rabbet and two dadoes in the sides. two stiles (E), a bottom bottom rail (F), and It’ss best to cut these in an extra-wide a ledge (G).The upper frame has two It’ panel,and panel, and then rip the sides to width stiles (H) and an upper rail (I).Note to ensure proper alignment. that this frame is topped with a fascia f ascia Now it’s just a matter of dry- board (J), which visually extends extends the assembling the case to check the fit. wide band on top of the bed. This is also a good time to cut a 1/4" Before assembling the frames, plywood back (C). Glue and screw screw there’s one last thing to do.That’s to the case case together together,, and rout a bullnose profile on the bottom nail the back in place to edge of the upper rail.This is a purely help square up the case. decorative element that matches the Material Don’t worry about the functional bullnose on the bed’s pivot Maple Plywood exposed screws.They’ll ra rail il,, vi visu sual ally ly tyi tying ng the the tw two

MATERIAL MA TERIALSS & HARDW HARDWARE ARE Part

Qty A Cabinet Sides 2 Shelf elf 3 B Top, Btm., Fixed Sh C Back 1 D Mounting Cleats 2 E Lower Stiles 2 F Bottom Rail 1 G Ledge 1 H Upper Stiles 2 1 I Upper Rail J Fascia Board 1 K Upper Door Rail 1 L Lower Door Rail 1 M Door Stiles 2 N Doorstop 1 O Upper Loose Tenon 2 P Lower Loose Tenon 2


Magazine

T #/4" #/4" !/4" #/4" #/4" #/4" #/4" #/4" #/4" #/4" #/4" #/4" #/4" #/4" #/8" #/8"

W 11!/4" 11!/4" 20!/2" 2" 2!/4" 4" 1!/2" 2!/4" 2&/16" 2#/4" 2!/4" 3&/16" 2" #/4" 1#/8" 2#/8"

L 84#/8" 19!/2" 84#/8" 19" 31!/4" 21!/2" 21!/2" 45%/8" 17" 21!/2" 12&/8" 12&/8" 31!/8" 19" 2" 2"

Maple Plywood Maple Plywood Maple Maple Maple Maple Maple Maple Maple Maple Maple Maple Maple Maple Maple

page 11 of 17


projects together. together. After routing the profile,, screw the frames together. profile together. Another visual link between the display cases and the bed is a “shadow line” between the upper face frame and the fascia board (Upper Frame Detail).. This line imitates Detail) imitates the gap between the top of the bed cabinet and the pivot rail. All that’s that’s needed to form this shadow line is to rout a small rabbet in the top edge of the upper face frame. Once that’s that’s done, attach the fascia board with pocket screws.Then glue and clamp the frames to the case. Build the Door — The — The frame and glass-panel door on each display case matches those on the computer desk and printer stand. It’ It’ss an inset door sized to fit the opening in the lower face frame with a 1/16" gap all around.The door is assembled with mortise and loose tenon joints (Mortise & Tenon Detail). After constructing the door frame, frame, rout a rabbet in the the back to accept the glass panel.Square panel. Square up the corners of the rabbet with a chisel, and install the glass with with silicone adhesive. adhesive. While the silicone dries, attac attach h a doorst doorstop op (N) (N) inside inside the case, underneath the front front edge of the fixed shelf.This piece is simply glued and clamped in place. Scribe Case to Fit — With — With the cases complete, complete, it’ it’ss time to to scribe them to fit against the wall. To do this, place the case against the the wall, check it for plumb, and locate the widest gap between the face frame

and the wall. wall. Cut a scribing block block that’ss at least as thick as this gap,and that’ slide the block along the wall, holding a pencil against it (Scribing Detail).. The Detail) Then n sand, sand, pla plane ne,, or cut cut to to the scribe line. Finally,, set the cases in place, and Finally drive screws through the mounting cleats into the walls.

Upper Frame Detail

Mortise & Tenon Detail

2"

%/16"

1#/8"

O

#/16" rabbet, !/!/44" deep

#/8" x 1#/8"

mortise, 1!/16" deep

#/8" rabbet, #/8" deep

2# K H

#/8" x 2#/8"

M

mortise, 1!/16" deep

2#/8"

G

#/8"

2&/1

roundovers L

P

%/16"

Scribing Detail

Sizing the Case

Walll Wal

J

Display Case Width of Opening

Murphy Bed

Scribe

Scribing Block

Width of Case = Opening Opening minus 1" Width of Face Frames = Opening Opening plus !/4"


Magazine

page 12 of 17


Construction Details Overall Dimension: 201 / 2" W x 11 1 / 4" D x 84 3 / 8" H

B D

Top (#/4" ply. x 11!/4" x 19!/2")

Mounting Cleat (#/4" x 2" x 19")

J

Fascia Board (#/4" x 2#/4" x 21!/2")

#8 x 1!/4" Fh Woodscrew Woodscre w

C

Back (!/4" ply. x 20!/2" x 84#/8")

I

Upper Rail (#/4" x 2&/ 16" x 17")

#/4" rabbet, !/4" deep

A

!/4" holes, !/2" deep

G A

Side (#/4" ply. x 11!/4" x 84#/8")

Glass Shelf (!/4" x 10" x 18&/8")

H

Upper Stile (#/4" x 2!/4" x 45%/8") 2" G

B

Ledge (#/4" x 1!/2" x 21!/2")

Fixed Shelf

10" 1!/2"

K

Upper Door Rail Butt (#/4" x 2!/4" x 12&/8") Hinge

N

D

Doorstop (#/4" x #/4" x 19") O

#/4" dado, !/4" deep

Upper Loose Tenon (#/8" x 1#/8" x 2")

2"

Textured Glass (!/8" x 13!/2" x 26!/8")

B

Bottom M

P

Lower Loose Tenon (#/8" x 2#/8" x 2")

E

Door Stile (#/#/44" x 2" x 31!/8")

4"

Lower Stile (#/4" x 2!/4" x 31!/4") Mortise

M


36"

10"

L

Lower Door Rail (#/4" x 3&/ 16" x 12&/8")

Magazine

NOTE: Left side case shown F NOTE: Width of cabinet may vary. Bottom Rail See Sizing the Case to fit (#/4" x 4" x 21!/2") the case into your opening. page 13 of 17


Plans

Cutiing Diagram - Murphy Bed

N O W ®

www.plansnow.com

A #/4"

x 8 !/4" x 60" Maple

A #/4"

x 8 !/4" x 60" Maple D

#/44" x 9" x 60" Maple #/

E #/44" x 7" x 60" Maple #/ F #/44" x 7" x 84" Maple #/ F #/44" x 7" x 84" Maple #/ B B

H I #/4"

G

G

x 9!/2" x 84" Maple ("G" is !/4" thick) K

J M

L

K

J

K M

#/44" x 9" x 96" Maple #/ From Workbench All rights reserved

Magazine

page 14 of 17


Plans


N O W ®

www.plansnow.com

O N #/44" x 8" x 108" Maple #/ Q

S

U

V #/44" #/

U

x 7" x 96" 96" Ma Mapl plee (" ("S" S" is !/!/44" thi thick ck)) V W

#/4" x 7 !/2"

x 60" Maple

C

P

#/44" x 48" x 96" Maple Plywood #/


Magazine

page 15 of 17


Plans


N O W ®

www.plansnow.com

C

P


T

R



Magazine

page 16 of 17


Plans


N O W ®

www.plansnow.com

X

!/4" x 48" x 96" Maple Plywood

X

!/4" x 48" x 96" Maple Plywood


Magazine

page 17 of 17


murphybed-dn1117

Recommend Documents