CONTENTS
M e e t M e at h e a d !
� T H E S C I E N C E O F H E A T MYTH: Plan on a 5°F to 10°F carryover. MYTH: Plan
“The Alton Brown of barbecue.”
� S M O K E
— JOE MIZRAHI, SMOKIN’ JOE’S, NYC
MYTH: Creosote should be avoided. MYTH: Creosote
“Impish irreverence, along with a kettle of assertions about the ‘thermodynamics’ of outdoor grilling, have made Goldwyn a sort of cross between Guy Fieri and Bill Nye the Science Guy.”
MYTH: A smoke ring is caused by smoke. MYTH: A MYTH: It is important to match the wood to the MYTH: It meat. MYTH: Soak wood chips and chunks for the most MYTH: Soak smoke.
— BLOOMBERG.COM
� T H E S C I E N C E O F F L A V O R
“[This] book will add a decidedly modernist sensibility to this primitive cooking form, as it brings the exacting science behind molecular gastronomy and applies it to barbecue.”
MYTH: Let meat come to room temperature before MYTH: Let grilling. MYTH: Searing meat seals in the juices. MYTH: Searing
— JIM SHAHIN, WASHING WASHINGTON TON POST
MYTH: Meat needs to rest after cooking. MYTH: Meat
“Meathead is the best writer covering this part of the culinary world. We’re really lucky to have him in our community because he has become a soothsayer. If there’s a BBQ Mt. Rushmore, his face ought to be on it. To have such muscular prose is better than we deserve.”
MYTH: Marinades penetrate deep into meat and MYTH: Marinades make it more tender. MYTH: The fat cap will melt and make the meat MYTH: The juicier. MYTH: Pink pork can cause trichinosis. MYTH: Pink MYTH: Cook chicken until the juices run clear. MYTH: Cook
— JOHN MARKUS, PRODUCER, BBQ PITMASTERS
MYTH: Grill marks are a sign of a great steak. MYTH: Grill MYTH: Flip meat on the grill as little as possible. MYTH: Flip
“[Meathead] looks for real answers to serious questions. People will argue that barbecue cooking is a magical process. He’s brought science to it.”
� HARDWARE MYTH: There is no difference between the flavor of MYTH: There food cooked over charcoal and gas.
— BARRY SORKIN, CHEF-OWNER OF SMOQUE BBQ
MYTH: Poking holes in your meat with a MYTH: Poking thermometer will make your meat dry.
MYTH
GRILL MARKS ARE A SIGN OF A GREAT STEAK.
WHEN TO COOK LOW AND SLOW
ads show beautiful steaks and burgers with
T
crosshatched grill marks. Cooking magazines and
slow is essenial or ough cus like bee briske,
books explain how to get the marks. But do we
pork shoulder, and ribs. These cus are oo ough o ea medium-rare (130°F o 135°F), he opi-
BUSTED! All the grocery, restaurant, and grill
really need them?
emperaure should be. Cooking low and
mum emperaure or mos oher cus o bee
Look at the three rib eye steaks. The grill marks
and pork. They also have los o ough connecive issue. Bu i hey are cooked o a mind-bog-
on rib eye #1 prompt a Pavlovian response and make you salivate. But rib eye #2 will taste a lot better. The grill marks on rib eye #1 are merely
he hicker he ood, he lower he cooking
1
MYTH: You can tell doneness by cutting into the MYTH: You meat to check its color. MYTH: The best tinder is dried leaves or MYTH: The newspaper. MYTH: Lump MYTH: Lump charcoal burns hotter than briquets. MYTH: Lump charcoal has more flavor than MYTH: Lump briquets. MYTH: The higher the BTU rating, the hotter the MYTH: The grill.
� S A F E T Y � RECIPES Brines Dry Brines Rubs and blends of herbs and spices Pork Beef Lamb Ground meats: Burgers, hot dogs, and sausages Chicken and turkey Duck and goose Fish Clams, oysters, and mussels Lobster, shrimp, and crab Pizza and breads Potatoes Beans Slaws, vegetables, salads, and sides Desserts INDEX
SURFACE TO CENTER TEMPERATURE DIFFERENCE IN 3-POUND PORK LOIN ROAST ) 195
F ( e r u t 175 a r e p 155 m e T e c 135 a f r u S
Cooking Temperature 225F 325F
145
115
w o l e B 95 m m 2 75
50
70
90
110
130
150
Center Temperature (F)
gling 203°F or so, magic happens: Fas mel
superficial branding, unlike the deep, rich sear
and he ough connecive issue sofens up like
that delivers maximal taste and texture in rib
Marshall Dillon in Miss Kity’s arms. Anoher benefi o cooking low and slow is ha i gives
zone” off o he side, where warm air circulaes
eye #2. When it comes to meats and many other foods, the goal is a golden brown to dark brown
sal ime o migrae owards he cener, which
you can sabilize he indirec zone a 225°F o
color on as much surface as possible. That’s
seasons he mea hroughou.
325°F wih he lid down. A 225°F, you can roas low and slow wih indirec convecion hea,
We ook wo pork loin roass abou our
the most flavorful part because a dark color
around he ood. Experimen wih your grill so
means that hundreds of tasty compounds have
inches wide and hree inches all and roased
perec or urning ough cus like briske ino
been created through the Maillard reaction and
one a 325°F and he oher a 225°F. By he ime
ender, juicy mea. This emperaure also allows
caramelization.
he cener o he mea hi he desired emperaure o 145°F, he ouer layer o he one cooked
you o slowly and genly raise he inerior emperaure o hick seaks and roass, mainaining
face fully browned. The diamond shapes between
a he higher emperaure was a parched 170°F,
heir moisure.
the grill marks remain well-done. And if you’re
while he one cooked a he lower emperaure was a sill-mois 160°F.
But rib eye #1 has only about a third of the sur-
not careful, grill marking can scar your meat with black stripes of chalky carbon that taste like burnt toast and might contain hazardous cancer-causing chemicals as shown in rib eye #3.
2
Some foods, however, do call for grill marks. On skinny foods like shrimp, chops, skirt steaks, asparagus, and bell peppers, grill marking quickly browns the exterior without overcooking the inte-
wihou ood. Cold weaher, rain, and wind can
This mehod cooks ood wih warm convecion
significanly impac he emperaure inside your
air insead o direcly over radian hea. To do i properly, you need o maser he single mos
cooker. Bu once you nail hese wo arge emperaures, you’ll be able o cook all ypes o ood
imporan echnique or he backyard cook: he
in your grill in any weaher.
A quick summary: You need a ho radian “direc zone” where you can pu ood direcly 3
THE SCIENCE OF HEAT
HOW TO COOK LOW AND SLOW
wo-zone seup (see page 000).
rior. But watch that they don’t burn.
4
A 325°F, you can quickly crisp chicken and urkey skins. Pracice hiting hese marks in your cooker in differen weaher condiions
above he hea and a warm convecion “indirec
THE SCIENCE OF HEAT
5
MYTH
GRILL MARKS ARE A SIGN OF A GREAT STEAK.
WHEN TO COOK LOW AND SLOW
ads show beautiful steaks and burgers with
T
crosshatched grill marks. Cooking magazines and
slow is essenial or ough cus like bee briske,
books explain how to get the marks. But do we
pork shoulder, and ribs. These cus are oo ough o ea medium-rare (130°F o 135°F), he opi-
BUSTED! All the grocery, restaurant, and grill
really need them?
he hicker he ood, he lower he cooking emperaure should be. Cooking low and
mum emperaure or mos oher cus o bee
Look at the three rib eye steaks. The grill marks
and pork. They also have los o ough connecive issue. Bu i hey are cooked o a mind-bog-
on rib eye #1 prompt a Pavlovian response and make you salivate. But rib eye #2 will taste a lot 1
better. The grill marks on rib eye #1 are merely
SURFACE TO CENTER TEMPERATURE DIFFERENCE IN 3-POUND PORK LOIN ROAST ) 195 F ( e r u t 175 a r e p 155 m e T
Cooking Temperature 225F 325F
145
e c 135 a f r u S 115 w o l e B 95 m m 2 75
50
70
90
110
130
150
Center Temperature (F)
gling 203°F or so, magic happens: Fas mel
superficial branding, unlike the deep, rich sear
and he ough connecive issue sofens up like
that delivers maximal taste and texture in rib
Marshall Dillon in Miss Kity’s arms. Anoher benefi o cooking low and slow is ha i gives
zone” off o he side, where warm air circulaes
eye #2. When it comes to meats and many other foods, the goal is a golden brown to dark brown
sal ime o migrae owards he cener, which
you can sabilize he indirec zone a 225°F o
color on as much surface as possible. That’s
seasons he mea hroughou.
325°F wih he lid down. A 225°F, you can roas low and slow wih indirec convecion hea,
We ook wo pork loin roass abou our
the most flavorful part because a dark color
around he ood. Experimen wih your grill so
means that hundreds of tasty compounds have
inches wide and hree inches all and roased
perec or urning ough cus like briske ino
been created through the Maillard reaction and
one a 325°F and he oher a 225°F. By he ime
ender, juicy mea. This emperaure also allows
caramelization.
he cener o he mea hi he desired emperaure o 145°F, he ouer layer o he one cooked
you o slowly and genly raise he inerior emperaure o hick seaks and roass, mainaining
face fully browned. The diamond shapes between
a he higher emperaure was a parched 170°F,
heir moisure.
the grill marks remain well-done. And if you’re
while he one cooked a he lower emperaure was a sill-mois 160°F.
But rib eye #1 has only about a third of the sur-
not careful, grill marking can scar your meat with black stripes of chalky carbon that taste like burnt toast and might contain hazardous cancer-causing chemicals as shown in rib eye #3.
2
Some foods, however, do call for grill marks. On skinny foods like shrimp, chops, skirt steaks, asparagus, and bell peppers, grill marking quickly browns the exterior without overcooking the inte-
HOW TO COOK LOW AND SLOW
wihou ood. Cold weaher, rain, and wind can
This mehod cooks ood wih warm convecion
significanly impac he emperaure inside your
air insead o direcly over radian hea. To do i properly, you need o maser he single mos
cooker. Bu once you nail hese wo arge emperaures, you’ll be able o cook all ypes o ood
imporan echnique or he backyard cook: he
in your grill in any weaher.
wo-zone seup (see page 000).
rior. But watch that they don’t burn.
A quick summary: You need a ho radian “direc zone” where you can pu ood direcly 3
4
A 325°F, you can quickly crisp chicken and urkey skins. Pracice hiting hese marks in your cooker in differen weaher condiions
above he hea and a warm convecion “indirec
THE SCIENCE OF HEAT
THE SMOKE RING
THE SCIENCE OF HEAT
5
1. Sar wih cold mea. Smoke is atraced o
cold mea.
S
moked meas, like ribs and he briske
2. Use a cooker ha does no have srong air
shown here, ofen have a pink layer called he smoke ring direcly below he surace, nes-
currens, which migh parch he mea’s surace.
led under he crus. The smoke ring is mosly
mois surace on he mea. A waer pan helps.
caused by niric oxide and/or carbon monoxide rom combusion locking in he mea’s na-
You can also add waer by lighly sprizing he
ural pink color. Smoke rings have long been emblems o grea barbecue. Alas, every year
juice or vinegar vinegar is also popular. popular. The The waer is sicky and grabs ono nirogen oxides and flavor
housands o resauran cusomers send back
molecules.
his mea, hinking i is undercooked. I is no. No mater wha ype o cooker you use, here
4. Keeping a charcoal or wood fire at a steady, low
3. Creae high humidiy in he cooker o keep a
mea wih a spray botle. Sprizing wih apple
are our secres o a grea smoke ring, all relaed
emperaure o abou 225°F minimizes drying on
o moisure:
he surace and produces he bes-asing mea.
REVERSE SEAR TO THE RESCUE
I
roas slowly wih smoky convecion air. Roas i gradually, flipping i once or wice, unil he inerior emperaure is 10°F o 15°F below your
lo o recipes have you brown mea in a pan
arge emperaure. For his, you absoluely posi-
beore finishing in he oven or in a po. Two
ively need a good insan-read digial hermom-
seps. Two emperaures. Sear over high hea,
eer like he Thermapen. When your chicken
finish a low hea. Bu when you sar wih high
his 150°F, ake i off he hea and pu i on a plae or a momen. You are done working on
o overcooked mea a he edge. I you reverse he order and sar he ood a a lower emperaure, you warm up he mea unil
he inerior. Now go o work on he exerior. Take he lid off, and crank up up he hea on he oher side as ho as you can ge i. Pa one side dry wih a paper owel so when
i is close o uniorm doneness on he inside. Then you can hi i wih high hea a he end
you pu i on he grill i doesn’ cool he surace and
and ge boh he inerior and exerior more prop-
on he ho side and leave he lid off. You wan all he hea ocused on one surace near he coals or
erly cooked. Tha’s reverse sear, and i is he bes approach or many oods. Maser i. Sar by seting up your grill or wo-zone cooking. Try o ge he indirec zone as close o 225°F as you can wih he lid on. Pu he mea
SMOKE
flames, and hen close he lid so he mea will
you have experience cooking, you know a
hea, you load up he exerior wih energy, and by he ime you are done, you have a hick band
6
on he indirec side, oss a litle hardwood on he
seam he mea. Then pu he mea dry side down
flames so he moisure seams off and he crus urns deep and dark bourbon brown. You wan o ake i jus shy o burn because a ha edge, dazzling hings happen.
THE SCIENCE OF FLAVOR
7
THE SMOKE RING
1. Sar wih cold mea. Smoke is atraced o
cold mea.
S
moked meas, like ribs and he briske
2. Use a cooker ha does no have srong air
shown here, ofen have a pink layer called he smoke ring direcly below he surace, nes-
currens, which migh parch he mea’s surace.
led under he crus. The smoke ring is mosly
mois surace on he mea. A waer pan helps.
caused by niric oxide and/or carbon monoxide rom combusion locking in he mea’s na-
You can also add waer by lighly sprizing he
ural pink color. Smoke rings have long been emblems o grea barbecue. Alas, every year
juice or vinegar vinegar is also popular. popular. The The waer is sicky and grabs ono nirogen oxides and flavor
housands o resauran cusomers send back
molecules.
his mea, hinking i is undercooked. I is no. No mater wha ype o cooker you use, here
4. Keeping a charcoal or wood fire at a steady, low
3. Creae high humidiy in he cooker o keep a
mea wih a spray botle. Sprizing wih apple
are our secres o a grea smoke ring, all relaed
emperaure o abou 225°F minimizes drying on
o moisure:
he surace and produces he bes-asing mea.
REVERSE SEAR TO THE RESCUE
I
flames, and hen close he lid so he mea will roas slowly wih smoky convecion air. Roas
you have experience cooking, you know a
i gradually, flipping i once or wice, unil he inerior emperaure is 10°F o 15°F below your
lo o recipes have you brown mea in a pan
arge emperaure. For his, you absoluely posi-
beore finishing in he oven or in a po. Two
ively need a good insan-read digial hermom-
seps. Two emperaures. Sear over high hea,
eer like he Thermapen. When your chicken
finish a low hea. Bu when you sar wih high
his 150°F, ake i off he hea and pu i on a plae or a momen. You are done working on
hea, you load up he exerior wih energy, and by he ime you are done, you have a hick band o overcooked mea a he edge. I you reverse he order and sar he ood a a lower emperaure, you warm up he mea unil
he inerior. Now go o work on he exerior. Take he lid off, and crank up up he hea on he oher side as ho as you can ge i. Pa one side dry wih a paper owel so when
i is close o uniorm doneness on he inside. Then you can hi i wih high hea a he end
you pu i on he grill i doesn’ cool he surace and
and ge boh he inerior and exerior more prop-
on he ho side and leave he lid off. You wan all he hea ocused on one surace near he coals or
erly cooked. Tha’s reverse sear, and i is he bes approach or many oods. Maser i.
seam he mea. Then pu he mea dry side down
flames so he moisure seams off and he crus
cooking. Try o ge he indirec zone as close o
urns deep and dark bourbon brown. You wan o ake i jus shy o burn because a ha edge,
225°F as you can wih he lid on. Pu he mea
dazzling hings happen.
Sar by seting up your grill or wo-zone
6
on he indirec side, oss a litle hardwood on he
SMOKE
THE SCIENCE OF FLAVOR
7
minute or two to make sure it is not burning. When
SIMON & GARFUNKEL
the white meat is 160°F and the dark meat 170°F to
RUB MAKES: About
175°F, you’re ready for your luau. �⁄� cup, enough for about 8 large whole
chickens TAKES:
10 minutes
HAWAIIAN HULI�HULI
1 tablespoon dried parsley
TERIYAKI SAUCE AND
2 tablespoons dried sage
MARINADE
1 tablespoon dried crushed rosemary
MEATHEAD’S MEMPHIS DUST
1 tablespoon dried thyme
I
1 tablespoon dried oregano 1 tablespoon dried basil 1 tablespoon dried crushed bay leaf
A
lhough i is ormulaed or pork, I’ve used his recipe wih success in sausage blends,
was such a hi ha, by he ime he died, i had
1 tablespoon ground black pepper
become a signaure dish beloved hroughou
1 tablespoon sugar
Hawaii. Morgado’s recipe is a secre, and every vendor on he islands has his or her own varia-
on smoked salmon, on celery suffed wih cream cheese, on he rim o Bloody Marys, and even on popcorn. I is designed o flavor, color, and orm he proper crus when cooked a low emperaures. Don’ skip he sugar, which is impor-
Measure everything and dump it into a blender. Put turn it off, and run it again. Continue pulsing about
1. Make the sauce.
until you have a coarse powder. Dump the whole
2. Pour it in a large bowl, or better still, into a large
thing in a jar and label it. It will keep for 6 months.
zipper bag. Add the chicken. Marinate, refrigerated, for at least 3 and up to 24 hours. The Huli-Huli sauce
use abou one ablespoon per side o a slab o S. Louis-cu ribs, and a bi less or baby backs. TAKES: 15 minutes
¾ cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
TERIYAKI CHICKEN
½ cup paprika ¼ cup garlic powder
ular on he mainland. Le’s change ha!
2 tablespoons ground black pepper 2 tablespoons ground ginger 2 tablespoons onion powder 2 teaspoons ground rosemary Mix all the ingredients together. Store the extra in a zipper bag or a glass jar with a tight lid.
8
HAWAIIAN HULI�HULI
A
¾ cup granulated white sugar
RUBS AND BLENDS
ion on he heme. Use his whenever a recipe
the lid on and blend on medium for a few seconds,
an or ormaion o he flavorul bark. I ypically
MAKES: About 3 cups
n 1955 Ernes Morgado cooked up a big bach o chicken or a group o armers. I
s popular as his is in Hawaii, i is surprising ha he dish hasn’ become more pop-
MAKES: 1 whole chicken, enough for 2 to 4 people TAKES: Making the marinade takes about 30 minutes; marinating takes 3 to 24 hours; cooking takes about 30 minutes
1 cup Huli-Huli Sauce (recipe follows) 1 (2-pound) chicken, cut into parts
calls or eriyaki sauce. MAKES: About 3 cups, enough for 2 whole chickens, cut into quarters TAKES: 30 minutes
contains a lot of soy sauce, which is salty. So some
1 cup pineapple juice
of it will penetrate, like a brine. It also makes a nice
1 cup low-sodium chicken broth or water
glaze when basted on during cooking.
�⁄� cup soy sauce
3. Set up the grill for two-zone cooking and preheat
�⁄� cup ketchup or red barbecue sauce
it so the indirect side is about 325°F. Pour the mari-
�⁄� cup rice wine vinegar
nade into a saucepan and bring to a boil to pasteur-
�⁄� cup packed dark brown sugar
ize it so it can be used for basting. Keep cooking until
4 tablespoons peeled grated fresh ginger
it reduces by about a quarter.
2 tablespoons Worcester Worcestershire shire sauce
4. Roast the chicken with the lid down on the indirect
side of the grill. Turn it frequently so the sugar in the sauce doesn’t blacken. After turning, paint the upper surface with a layer of the sauce.
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil 2 teaspoons sriracha sauce 4 medium garlic cloves, pressed or finely minced
5. As the chicken approaches 150°F, stop basting.
Mix all the ingredient ingredients s together in a saucepan and
Discard the sauce. Move the meat over the direct
simmer gently for about 10 minutes. You can refriger-
heat, skin side down to crisp the skin. Flip it every
ate it for months.
CHICKEN AND TURKEY
9
minute or two to make sure it is not burning. When
SIMON & GARFUNKEL
the white meat is 160°F and the dark meat 170°F to
RUB MAKES: About
175°F, you’re ready for your luau. �⁄� cup, enough for about 8 large whole
chickens TAKES:
10 minutes
HAWAIIAN HULI�HULI
1 tablespoon dried parsley
TERIYAKI SAUCE AND
2 tablespoons dried sage
MARINADE
1 tablespoon dried crushed rosemary
MEATHEAD’S MEMPHIS DUST
1 tablespoon dried thyme
I
1 tablespoon dried oregano 1 tablespoon dried basil 1 tablespoon dried crushed bay leaf
A
was such a hi ha, by he ime he died, i had
lhough i is ormulaed or pork, I’ve used
1 tablespoon ground black pepper
become a signaure dish beloved hroughou
his recipe wih success in sausage blends,
1 tablespoon sugar
Hawaii. Morgado’s recipe is a secre, and every vendor on he islands has his or her own varia-
on smoked salmon, on celery suffed wih cream cheese, on he rim o Bloody Marys, and even on popcorn. I is designed o flavor, color, and orm he proper crus when cooked a low emperaures. Don’ skip he sugar, which is impor-
Measure everything and dump it into a blender. Put
TAKES: 15 minutes
¾ cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
1. Make the sauce.
until you have a coarse powder. Dump the whole
2. Pour it in a large bowl, or better still, into a large
thing in a jar and label it. It will keep for 6 months.
zipper bag. Add the chicken. Marinate, refrigerated, for at least 3 and up to 24 hours. The Huli-Huli sauce
HAWAIIAN HULI�HULI TERIYAKI CHICKEN
½ cup paprika
A
¼ cup garlic powder
ular on he mainland. Le’s change ha!
2 tablespoons ground black pepper
MAKES: 1 whole chicken, enough for 2 to 4 people
¾ cup granulated white sugar
2 tablespoons ground ginger 2 tablespoons onion powder 2 teaspoons ground rosemary Mix all the ingredients together. Store the extra in a zipper bag or a glass jar with a tight lid.
calls or eriyaki sauce.
turn it off, and run it again. Continue pulsing about
use abou one ablespoon per side o a slab o S. Louis-cu ribs, and a bi less or baby backs. MAKES: About 3 cups
ion on he heme. Use his whenever a recipe
the lid on and blend on medium for a few seconds,
an or ormaion o he flavorul bark. I ypically
8
n 1955 Ernes Morgado cooked up a big bach o chicken or a group o armers. I
s popular as his is in Hawaii, i is surprising ha he dish hasn’ become more pop-
TAKES: Making the marinade takes about 30 minutes; marinating takes 3 to 24 hours; cooking takes about 30 minutes
1 cup Huli-Huli Sauce (recipe follows) 1 (2-pound) chicken, cut into parts
MAKES: About 3 cups, enough for 2 whole chickens, cut into quarters TAKES: 30 minutes
contains a lot of soy sauce, which is salty. So some
1 cup pineapple juice
of it will penetrate, like a brine. It also makes a nice
1 cup low-sodium chicken broth or water
glaze when basted on during cooking.
�⁄� cup soy sauce
3. Set up the grill for two-zone cooking and preheat
�⁄� cup ketchup or red barbecue sauce
it so the indirect side is about 325°F. Pour the mari-
�⁄� cup rice wine vinegar
nade into a saucepan and bring to a boil to pasteur-
�⁄� cup packed dark brown sugar
ize it so it can be used for basting. Keep cooking until
4 tablespoons peeled grated fresh ginger
it reduces by about a quarter.
2 tablespoons Worcester Worcestershire shire sauce
4. Roast the chicken with the lid down on the indirect
side of the grill. Turn it frequently so the sugar in the sauce doesn’t blacken. After turning, paint the upper
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil 2 teaspoons sriracha sauce 4 medium garlic cloves, pressed or finely minced
surface with a layer of the sauce. 5. As the chicken approaches 150°F, stop basting.
Mix all the ingredient ingredients s together in a saucepan and
Discard the sauce. Move the meat over the direct
simmer gently for about 10 minutes. You can refriger-
heat, skin side down to crisp the skin. Flip it every
ate it for months.
RUBS AND BLENDS
o dunk he celery ino. The boys dipped boh he celery and he saucy wings in he blue cheese dip, and an inernaional rage was born. Nowadayss every Nowaday every bar in Buffalo serves wings, hey are sandard are across he naion, here is a naional chain named Buffalo Wild Wings,
to a crisp. You can cook them if you wish, but I freeze
�⁄� cup Frank’s Original RedHot Sauce
them for use in making soup. Separate the V-shaped piece remaining at the joint between the wingette
THE REST
24 whole chicken wings (about 4 pounds)
and drumette. You will cook both these parts.
Fesival in “The Queen Ciy” over he Labor Day
usually grill them. Set up the grill for two-zo two-zone ne cook-
on he grill, and even smoking hem firs. And Bu mmmmm, asy blasphemy, o paraphrase
oods are ho dogs and hamburgers, bu
Homer Simpson. The problem is geting he skin crispy. So I
Wings, however, were born in he USA, made rom a par o he chicken ha once upon a ime
ried everyhing. I pained hem wih oil. I ook
was used or soup sock. The popular dish was invened in Buffalo, New York, a he now abled
make Peking Duck and dunked hem in boiling waer or a bi, and hen le hem dry in he
Anchor Bar, sill a he original locaion, 1047 Main Sree, alhough ownership has changed.
ridge. I dunked hem in saled boiling waer.
bi hrough ime, bu he new owners and survi-
2 minced or pressed garlic cloves
4. You can start them on a smoker if you wish, but I
ome will say he quinessenial American
The exac origin able has become clouded a
enough that they often fall through the grates or burn
6 celery stalks, cleaned, and cut into 4-inch
here is much less mess. Blasphemy, I know.
hey have heir roos in Europe. Buffalo Chicken
The tips are almost almost all skin, really really thin, and small
8 tablespoons (1 stick) salted butter, melted
Salt and ground black pepper
True Buffalo wings are deep ried, bu I love he flavor and convenience o cooking hem
S
CLASSIC BUFFALO HOT SAUCE
and here is even a huge Naional Buffalo Wing weekend.
BUFFALO WINGS
9
CHICKEN AND TURKEY
a ip rom Chinese resaurans and he way hey
the skin and melt the fat. If you wish, add wood to the 1. Take the cream cheese and the blue cheese out
direct side to create smoke. Use a lot of smoke. Grill
of the fridge and let them come to room temp. Then
with the lid closed in the indirect zone until the skins
smush them together with the spices in a bowl. Mix
are golden. That will probably take 7 to 10 minutes
in the sour cream and half-and-half. Refrigerate.
per side. By then they are pretty close to done.
You Yo u can do this a day ahead. Cut up the celery and refrigerate.
5. Now move them onto the direct heat side of your
grill, high heat, lid open, and stand there, turning
2. You can also make the hot sauce days ahead. Melt
frequently until the skin is dark golden to brown but
the butter in a pan over a low heat and then add the
not burnt, keeping a close eye on the skinnier pieces,
garlic. Let it simmer for about a minute but don’t let
moving them to the indirect zone when they are
the garlic brown. Then add the Frank’s. Let them get
done.
to know each other for at least 3 to 4 minutes. ANATOMY OF A CHICKEN WING
I seamed hem. I sprinkled hem wih baking powder. I poked holes in he skin so hey would
ing with the indirect side at about 325°F to help crisp
sections
Drumette
6. Put the sauce in a big bowl or pot and put it on
the grill and get it warm. Stir or whisk well. Keep warm. When the wings are done you can serve them with the sauce on the side for dipping, or just dump
vors o he memorable nigh ell his ale: Lae
drain beter. I even combined echniques. So I’ve chosen he simples pah: reverse sear.
on a Friday nigh in 1964, Dom Bellissimo, son o owners Frank and Teressa, was working a
I sar he wings on he indirec side o cook he
the celery sticks next to them, and serve with a bowl
mea, add smoke, and finish on he ho side o crisp he skin.
of the dip. People can scoop some blue cheese sauce
he Anchor when some o his buddies showed up wih he munchies. Theresa was shuting down he kichen, so she looked or somehing quick and easy. She had a box o wings o use in making soup, so hinking on her ee, she ossed
MAKES: 4 to 6 appetize r servings TAKES: 2 hours prep and 30 minutes to cook BLUE CHEESE DIP
Tip Wingette
on their plates, and dip in the celery and wings. three distinct pieces of different thickness and skin to meat ratio: (1) The tips, (2) the wingettes or flats in the center, and (3) the drumettes on the end that
3 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
attach to the shoulders. The thickness differences
When hey came ou she sprinkled hem wih ho sauce, some meled margarine, and o make sure he boys had a well-rounded meal, she
3 ounces good-quality blue cheese, crumbled
means they cook at different speeds and finish at
�⁄� cup half-and-half
different times. The best thing to do is separate them
�⁄� cup sour cream
into three parts with kitchen shears, a sturdy knife, or
added a side o celery and blue cheese dressing
�⁄� teaspoon Simon & Garfunkel Rub (page 8)
a Chinese cleaver.
CHICKEN AND TURKEY
coated. Then slide them onto a serving platter. Put
3. So here are the problems with wings. There are
hem ino he deep ryer, which was sill ho.
10
them in with the sauce and toss or stir until they are
CHICKEN AND TURKEY
11
o dunk he celery ino. The boys dipped boh he celery and he saucy wings in he blue cheese dip, and an inernaional rage was born. Nowadayss every Nowaday every bar in Buffalo serves wings, hey are sandard are across he naion, here is a naional chain named Buffalo Wild Wings,
them for use in making soup. Separate the V-shaped piece remaining at the joint between the wingette
THE REST
and drumette. You will cook both these parts.
24 whole chicken wings (about 4 pounds)
4. You can start them on a smoker if you wish, but I
usually grill them. Set up the grill for two-zo two-zone ne cook-
on he grill, and even smoking hem firs. And Bu mmmmm, asy blasphemy, o paraphrase
oods are ho dogs and hamburgers, bu
Homer Simpson. The problem is geting he skin crispy. So I
Wings, however, were born in he USA, made rom a par o he chicken ha once upon a ime
ried everyhing. I pained hem wih oil. I ook
was used or soup sock. The popular dish was invened in Buffalo, New York, a he now abled
make Peking Duck and dunked hem in boiling waer or a bi, and hen le hem dry in he
Anchor Bar, sill a he original locaion, 1047 Main Sree, alhough ownership has changed.
ridge. I dunked hem in saled boiling waer.
bi hrough ime, bu he new owners and survi-
to a crisp. You can cook them if you wish, but I freeze
�⁄� cup Frank’s Original RedHot Sauce
6 celery stalks, cleaned, and cut into 4-inch
ome will say he quinessenial American
The exac origin able has become clouded a
2 minced or pressed garlic cloves
Salt and ground black pepper
here is much less mess. Blasphemy, I know.
hey have heir roos in Europe. Buffalo Chicken
enough that they often fall through the grates or burn
Fesival in “The Queen Ciy” over he Labor Day True Buffalo wings are deep ried, bu I love he flavor and convenience o cooking hem
S
The tips are almost almost all skin, really really thin, and small
8 tablespoons (1 stick) salted butter, melted
and here is even a huge Naional Buffalo Wing weekend.
BUFFALO WINGS
CLASSIC BUFFALO HOT SAUCE
a ip rom Chinese resaurans and he way hey
the skin and melt the fat. If you wish, add wood to the 1. Take the cream cheese and the blue cheese out
direct side to create smoke. Use a lot of smoke. Grill
of the fridge and let them come to room temp. Then
with the lid closed in the indirect zone until the skins
smush them together with the spices in a bowl. Mix
are golden. That will probably take 7 to 10 minutes
in the sour cream and half-and-half. Refrigerate.
per side. By then they are pretty close to done.
You Yo u can do this a day ahead. Cut up the celery and refrigerate.
5. Now move them onto the direct heat side of your
grill, high heat, lid open, and stand there, turning
2. You can also make the hot sauce days ahead. Melt
frequently until the skin is dark golden to brown but
the butter in a pan over a low heat and then add the
not burnt, keeping a close eye on the skinnier pieces,
garlic. Let it simmer for about a minute but don’t let
moving them to the indirect zone when they are
the garlic brown. Then add the Frank’s. Let them get
done.
to know each other for at least 3 to 4 minutes.
6. Put the sauce in a big bowl or pot and put it on
the grill and get it warm. Stir or whisk well. Keep
ANATOMY OF A CHICKEN WING
I seamed hem. I sprinkled hem wih baking powder. I poked holes in he skin so hey would
ing with the indirect side at about 325°F to help crisp
sections
warm. When the wings are done you can serve them
Drumette
with the sauce on the side for dipping, or just dump
vors o he memorable nigh ell his ale: Lae
drain beter. I even combined echniques. So I’ve chosen he simples pah: reverse sear.
on a Friday nigh in 1964, Dom Bellissimo, son o owners Frank and Teressa, was working a
I sar he wings on he indirec side o cook he
the celery sticks next to them, and serve with a bowl
mea, add smoke, and finish on he ho side o crisp he skin.
of the dip. People can scoop some blue cheese sauce
he Anchor when some o his buddies showed up wih he munchies. Theresa was shuting down he kichen, so she looked or somehing quick and easy. She had a box o wings o use in making soup, so hinking on her ee, she ossed
MAKES: 4 to 6 appetize r servings TAKES: 2 hours prep and 30 minutes to cook BLUE CHEESE DIP
Tip
them in with the sauce and toss or stir until they are
Wingette
coated. Then slide them onto a serving platter. Put
on their plates, and dip in the celery and wings. 3. So here are the problems with wings. There are
three distinct pieces of different thickness and skin to meat ratio: (1) The tips, (2) the wingettes or flats in the center, and (3) the drumettes on the end that
hem ino he deep ryer, which was sill ho.
3 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
attach to the shoulders. The thickness differences
When hey came ou she sprinkled hem wih
3 ounces good-quality blue cheese, crumbled
means they cook at different speeds and finish at
ho sauce, some meled margarine, and o make sure he boys had a well-rounded meal, she
�⁄� cup half-and-half
different times. The best thing to do is separate them
�⁄� cup sour cream
into three parts with kitchen shears, a sturdy knife, or
added a side o celery and blue cheese dressing
�⁄� teaspoon Simon & Garfunkel Rub (page 8)
a Chinese cleaver.
10
CHICKEN AND TURKEY
CHICKEN AND TURKEY
“An amazing compendium of barbecue knowledge.” — AARON FRANKLIN, CHEF, FRANKLIN BARBECUE, AUSTIN
FOR SUCCULENT RESULTS EVERY TIME, nothing is more crucial than under-
PUBLICITY & MARKETING
standing the science behind the interaction of fire and food. In this definitive guide to the concepts, methods, and equipment of barbecuing and grilling, Meathead Goldwyn shatters the myths that stand in the way of perfection. “Busted” “Busted” misconceptions include:
∙ ∙ ∙
National Media Author Tour National Print and Online Advertising
11
“An amazing compendium of barbecue knowledge.” — AARON FRANKLIN, CHEF, FRANKLIN BARBECUE, AUSTIN
FOR SUCCULENT RESULTS EVERY TIME, nothing is more crucial than under-
PUBLICITY & MARKETING
standing the science behind the interaction of fire and food. In this definitive guide to the concepts, methods, and equipment of barbecuing and grilling, Meathead Goldwyn shatters the myths that stand in the way of perfection. “Busted” “Busted” misconceptions include:
∙
MYTH
MEAT SHOULD BE BROUGHT TO ROOM TEMPERATURE BEFORE COOKING.
BUSTED! Cold MYTH
∙
∙
meat attracts smoke better.
HARDWOOD CHARCOAL IS BETTER THAN BRIQUETS.
BUSTED! There’s MYTH
∙
National Media Author Tour National Print and Online Advertising Online Marketing and Social Media Promotion
no difference in flavor, and briquets last longer.
MEAT NEEDS TO REST AFTER GRILLING TO REABSORB ITS JUICES.
∙ ∙ ∙ ∙
ISBN 978-0-544-01846-4 $35.00 8 x 10 512 pages Full-color throughout
BUSTED! Tests show it does not take up juices but can become cold and overcooked.
∙
Meathead reveals everything backyard bac kyard heroes need to know, including how to decide when to use a dry rub or a brine and a detailed roundup of equipment—from grills and grates to the best thermometers. Lavishly illustrated with full-color photos and illustrations, this book contains all the sure-fire recipes for traditional American favorites: Tennessee Hollerin’ Sauce, Last Meal Ribs, Baltimore Pit Beef, Simon and Garfunkel Chicken, Schmancy Smoked Salmon, Roman-Style No-Knead Pizza, and Ultimate Corn on the Cob.
PUBLICATION DA DATE TE
May 24, 2016 PUBLICITY CONTACT
Brittany Edwards
[email protected] (212) 592-1112 A Rux Martin Book
MEATHEAD GOLDWYN is the president and founder
of amazingribs.com, one of the most popular online barbecuing sites. He has written hundreds of articles for the Washington Post , Chicago Tribune, Huffington Post, AOL, Wine Spectator , and may others. He has taught at Cornell University’s Hotel School and Le Cordon Bleu in Chicago. He has judged food and drink from Italy to New York to Kansas City to California. He lives outside Chicago.
www.hmhco.com/cooking
Follow us @HMHCooks Designed by Endpaper Studio Photographs by Meathead Goldwyn Author photo ©John R. Boehm
