Makeup Tips Handbook

Handbook

Copyright © University of Makeup

Handbook

Makeup Tips Handbook

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Handbook

Legal Notice The author and publisher of this ebook and the accompanying materials have used their best efforts in preparing it. The author and publisher make no representation or warranties with respect to the accuracy, applicability, fitness, or completeness of the contents of this ebook. The information contained in this ebook is strictly for educational purposes. Therefore, if you wish to apply ideas contained in this ebook, you are taking full responsibility for your actions. The author and publisher disclaim any warranties (express or implied), merchantability, or fitness for any particular purpose. The author and publisher shall in no event be held liable to any party for any direct, indirect, punitive, special, incidental or other consequential damages arising directly or indirectly from any use of this material, which is provided “as is”, and without warranties. As always, the advice of a competent legal, tax, accounting or other professional should be sought. The author and publisher do not warrant the performance, effectiveness or applicability of any sites listed or linked to in this ebook. All links are for information purposes only and are not warranted for content, accuracy or any other implied or explicit purpose. The copyright of this ebook is the property of UniversityofMakeup.com. It may not be published on any media such as websites, books or magazines without the written permission from University of Makeup.


Handbook

Index Index.................................................................................................................................................................4 1. Basic Skincare You Should Know...............................................................................................................5 2. Overview of Makeup and Tools a Makeup Artist Need...............................................................................6 3. How to Remove Your Makeup...................................................................................................................10 4. Makeup Brushes That You Need................................................................................................................11 5. How to Sanitize Your Makeup Brushes.....................................................................................................13 6. How to Shape Your Eyebrows...................................................................................................................15 7. How to Tint Your Eyebrows and Eyelashes...............................................................................................16 8. How to Choose the Correct Foundation Color...........................................................................................18 9. How to Apply Foundation..........................................................................................................................20 10. How to Apply Cover Stick / Concealer....................................................................................................22 11. How to Apply Loose Powder...................................................................................................................23 12. How to Fill In Your Eyebrows.................................................................................................................24 13. How to Apply Eye Shadow......................................................................................................................25 14. How to Apply Mascara.............................................................................................................................27 15. How to Apply Blush.................................................................................................................................28 16. How to Apply Lip Liner, Lipstick and Lip Gloss....................................................................................29 17. How to Apply Lipstick to Stay on Longer...............................................................................................30 18. How to Correct Makeup Mistakes...........................................................................................................31 19. How to Apply Day Makeup.....................................................................................................................32 20. How to Go From Day to Evening Makeup..............................................................................................34 21. How to Apply False Eyelashes.................................................................................................................35 22. How to do Perfect Smokey Eyes..............................................................................................................37 23. How to do the Perfect Pin-Up Look.........................................................................................................39 24. Your 5 Minute Makeup Look...................................................................................................................40 25. Eye Makeup Tips When Wearing Glasses...............................................................................................42 26. Bridal Makeup Look: Young and Beautiful Bride...................................................................................45 27. Bridal Makeup Look: Elegant Bride........................................................................................................45 28. Bridal Makeup Look: Shiny, Happy Bride..............................................................................................46 29. Bridal Makeup Look: Soft, Mysterious Bride..........................................................................................46 30. Bridal Makeup Look: Beautiful Asian Bride...........................................................................................47 31. Bridal Makeup Look: Modern Bride........................................................................................................47 32. Bridal Makeup Look: Romantic Bride.....................................................................................................48 33. Celebrity Makeup Look: Eva Longoria...................................................................................................48 34. Celebrity Makeup Look: Penelope Cruz..................................................................................................49 35. Celebrity Makeup Look: Rihanna............................................................................................................49 36. Celebrity Makeup Look: Angelina Jolie..................................................................................................50 37. Celebrity Makeup Look: Gwen Stefani...................................................................................................50 38. Celebrity Makeup Look: Jessica Alba......................................................................................................51 39. Celebrity Makeup Look: Sandra Bullock................................................................................................52 40. Photo Shoot Makeup Look: Sexy Crimson..............................................................................................52 41. Corrective Makeup on Different Face Shapes.........................................................................................53 42. Corrective Makeup on Different Nose Shapes.........................................................................................56 43. Corrective Makeup on Different Jaw Lines.............................................................................................57 44. Corrective Makeup on Different Cheekbones..........................................................................................58 45. Corrective Makeup on Different Lip Shapes...........................................................................................59 47. Corrective Makeup on Different Forehead Shapes..................................................................................60 48. How to Give a Makeup Lesson................................................................................................................61 Join One of Our Premium Makeup Courses:.................................................................................................62


Handbook

1. Basic Skincare You Should Know

Basic skincare day routine: 1. Cleanse (morning and evening) 2. Toner 3. Moisturizer 4. Sun protection (prevents any pigmentation from forming). Weekly routine: 1. Exfoliate (once or twice per week). This ensures that all the dead skin cells are removed from the surface of your skin and it also improves your skin circulation. 2. Mask (once or twice per week, depending on your skin type and the type of mask.) Preparing your face for make-up: 1. Wash face with a cleanser depending on your skin type. 2. Tone 3. Put on some eye cream 4. Day moisturizer 5. Make sure your client is comfortable. 6. Put a headband and “bib” on your client so that no make-up spills on her. Watch the Video Tutorial


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2. Overview of Makeup and Tools a Makeup Artist Need

1. Natural sea sponge •

This is difficult to get hold of, comes directly out of the sea.

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It is non – absorbent and it’s used to apply foundation.

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Wash with cold water only.

2. Latex sponge •

This sponge is used to blend already applied foundation.

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It is made of absorbent material.

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Wash with Soap and water, dry in sun.

3. Powder puff •

It is round with the sides stitched and has a band so that your little finger fit around it.

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This is used to apply loose powder onto your face.

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Wash with Soap and water, dry in sun.

4. Tweezers •

Used to shape eyebrows.

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Sterilize with surgical alcohol.

5. Eyebrow curler Copyright © University of Makeup

Handbook

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Always curl your eyelashes BEFORE you apply mascara, otherwise you will break your eyelashes.

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Sterilize with surgical alcohol.

6. Foundation brush •

This brush is used to apply foundation.

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Most foundation brushes that you find are flat and the hair has a round shaped edge.

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Other foundation brushes like the ones from MAC are bigger and fuller with a flat edge.

7. Powder brush •

Biggest brush in your kit and all the hair is the same length.

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This is only used to remove excess powder after you have applied it with your powder puff.

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Wash with shampoo and conditioner.

8. Blusher brush •

This is a smaller version of the powder brush.

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Used to blend already applied blush.

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9. Contour brush •

This is used to apply blush and it fits underneath your cheekbones.

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The hair of this brush graduates from short to long.

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10. Eye shadow blending brush •

It looks like a small broom and all the hair are the same length.

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Used only to blend the eye shadow and not for applying it.

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11. Eye shadow applicator brush •

Smaller version of the contour brush.

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It is shaped in a rounded form and fits perfectly in the fold of the eye..

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All eye shadow colours can be applied with this brush.

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12. Highlighting brush •

Bigger version of the eye shadow applicator brush.

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It has a rounded shape and is used to apply only highlighter.

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13. Eyeliner brush •

Very small version of the contour brush.

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Used to fill in eyebrows and apply eyeliner.

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14. Lipstick brush •

All the hair is the same length.

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Applying lipstick and lip gloss.

15. Tissues •

Used to correct small mistakes, remove excess lipstick from your lips and to clean brushes in – between clients.

16. Sharpener •

It is good to have one with 2 different size holes.

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Sharpening of all pencils.

17. Cotton buds •

Used to correct any harsh or skew lines and for applying powder underneath eyes.

18. Spatula •

This is used for shaping your eyebrows and to remove products from their containers.

19. Glass •

Holds all your brushes neatly together.


Handbook

20. Headband •

Keeps your client’s hair out of her face.

21.” Bib” •

Ensures that no make-up spills on your client’s clothes.

22. Hand mirror •

So that the client can see what you do. Watch the Video Tutorial


Handbook

3. How to Remove Your Makeup

Steps in Brief: 1. Pour some eye make-up remover onto two cotton wool pads. 2. Hold these pads in your hands, folding each hand’s ring- and middle finger over the cotton wool. 3. Start at your eyebrows and work in three strokes downwards towards your eyelashes. Place the cotton wool on the outside corner of your eyes and move gradually to the inside corner of your eye. Moving in an S- shape, go over your eyelid to the outside corner of your eyebrows and then again to the inside corner of your eyebrow. 4. Take a cotton bud and lightly dip it into some eye make-up remover. Gently rub/ roll it over your eyelashes in downwards movements. Also take the cotton bud and clean underneath your eyelashes. Watch the Video Tutorial


Handbook

4. Makeup Brushes That You Need

Overview of Makeup Brushes That You Need: Foundation brush •

This brush is used to apply foundation.

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Most foundation brushes that you find are flat and the hair has a round shaped edge.

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Other foundation brushes like the ones from MAC are bigger and fuller with a flat edge.

Powder brush •

Biggest brush in your kit and all the hair is the same length.

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This is only used to remove excess powder after you have applied it with your powder puff.

Blusher brush •

This is a smaller version of the powder brush.

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Used to blend already applied blush.

Contour brush •

This is used to apply blush and it fits underneath your cheekbones.

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The hair of this brush graduates from short to long.

Eye shadow blending brush Copyright © University of Makeup

Handbook

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It looks like a small broom and all the hair are the same length.

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Used only to blend the eye shadow and not for applying it.

Eye shadow applicator brush •

Smaller version of the contour brush.

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It is shaped in a rounded form and fits perfectly in the fold of the eye..

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All eye shadow colours can be applied with this brush.

Highlighting brush •

Bigger version of the eye shadow applicator brush.

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It has a rounded shape and is used to apply only highlighter.

Eyeliner brush •

Very small version of the contour brush.

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Used to fill in eyebrows and apply eyeliner.

Lipstick brush •

All the hair is the same length.

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Applying lipstick and lip gloss. Watch the Video Tutorial


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5. How to Sanitize Your Makeup Brushes

Brief Overview: •

Natural sea sponge: Wash with cold water only.

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Latex sponge: Wash with soap and water, dry in sun.

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Powder puff: Wash with soap and water, dry in sun.

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Tweezers: Sterilize with surgical alcohol.

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Eyebrow curler: Sterilize with surgical alcohol.

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Powder brush: Clean with MAC brush cleanser. Pour some of the cleanser onto a cotton wool and wipe it all over your brushes. Leave to dry naturally.

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Blusher brush: Clean with MAC brush cleanser. Pour some of the cleanser onto a cotton wool and wipe it all over your brushes. Leave to dry naturally.

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Contour brush: Clean with MAC brush cleanser. Pour some of the cleanser onto a cotton wool and wipe it all over your brushes. Leave to dry naturally.

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Eye shadow blending brush: Clean with MAC brush cleanser. Pour some of the cleanser onto a cotton wool and wipe it all over your brushes. Leave to dry naturally.

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Eye shadow applicator brush: Clean with MAC brush cleanser. Pour some of the cleanser onto a cotton wool and wipe it all over your brushes. Leave to dry naturally.


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Highlighting brush: Clean with MAC brush cleanser. Pour some of the cleanser onto a cotton wool and wipe it all over your brushes. Leave to dry naturally.

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Eyeliner brush: Clean with MAC brush cleanser. Pour some of the cleanser onto a cotton wool and wipe it all over your brushes. Leave to dry naturally

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Lipstick brush: Clean with MAC brush cleanser. Pour some of the cleanser onto a cotton wool and wipe it all over your brushes. Leave to dry naturally

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Tissues: Used to correct small mistakes, remove excess lipstick from your lips and to clean brushes in – between clients. Watch the Video Tutorial


Handbook

6. How to Shape Your Eyebrows

What you need: 1. Tweezers 2. Tissues 3. Cotton wool 4. Eyebrow brush 5. 1 spatula 6. Lamp Procedure for perfect eyebrow shaping: 1. Always sterilize your tweezers beforehand. 2. Sterilize the area that needs to be shaped with hibitane. 3. Place one tissue on top of your client’s head. 4. Gently “pull” the area that needs to be shaped. This ensures support. 5. Cool down the area by wiping it with hibitane. How to do correct eyebrow shaping to compliment your eyes: 1. Basic line – this area can be identified by placing your spatula on the outside corner of your nose and the inside corner of your eye. Any hair that grows in-between that line must be removed. 2. Lengthening line- Place your spatula on the outside corner of your nose, taking it all the way to the outside corner of your eye / eyebrow. This is where the lengthening line must stop. 3. The point where your brow arches- Let your client open her eyes and look in front of her, then place the spatula on the outside of her iris. This is where the brow must arch. Watch the Video Tutorial Copyright © University of Makeup

Handbook

7. How to Tint Your Eyebrows and Eyelashes

Things you need for tinting: 1. 1 small scissor 2. 1 small container for mixing of tint 3. 1 small brush for applying of tint 4. Cotton buds 5. Cotton – wet and dry. 6. Reflectocil tint – brown, black and blue – black 7. Volume 10 peroxide 8. Vaseline 9. Eye drops Contra – indications: •

Any previous history of skin allergies.

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Puffy eyes, eyes that are red, eye infections.

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Remove contact lenses

Procedure for eyebrow and eyelash tinting: 1. Make sure that all eye make-up is removed. Copyright © University of Makeup

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2. Take some rounded cotton and cut it in half. Take one half and cut out a rounded shape onto it. These cotton shapes will go underneath your eyelashes. 3. The cotton wool must be thin enough and must be the length of your eye shape. 4. Take a cotton bud and apply Vaseline all around your eyebrows. Make sure that no Vaseline touches your eyebrows. Also apply some Vaseline onto your eyelid and underneath your eyes. 5. Choose the correct colour tint according to your client’s needs and mix it with 2 -3 drops of peroxide. Make sure that the paste is even and not clumpy. 6. Apply some tint onto the bottom eyelashes while her eyes are open; then apply it onto the top eyelashes while your client’s eyes are closed. 7. Make sure that the eyelashes are covered all the way to their roots. To remove excess tint from your eyes or eyelids, you can just take a cotton bud and lightly wipe it off. 8. Leave on for 10 – 20 minutes. 9. While your client is relaxing, wipe out the tint from your glass bowl. Brush your client’s eyebrows with an eyebrow brush in the opposite direction that it is growing. Mix the correct colour for your client’s eyebrows, with 2- 3 drops of peroxide. 10. Apply it against the hair growth and make sure that all the hair is covered. Comb it then neatly. 11. Leave for 5 minutes. 12. Remove the tint with damp cotton wool in an upwards movement. Make sure you remove all the excess Vaseline as well. 13. Remove the damp cotton wool underneath your eyes. Take more damp cotton wool and remove any excess tint from your eyelashes. Just to ensure that all tint is removed, take some damp cotton buds and gently roll it over the client’s eyelashes. 14. Throw in some eye drops if the client’s eyes are burning. Watch the Video Tutorial


Handbook

8. How to Choose the Correct Foundation Color

Brief Explanation: Take 3 colors that you think will suit you and apply it onto your cheekbone, all underneath each other. The one that disappears on your skin is the correct color. Foundation texture can be categorized into the following: 1. Dry skin •

Moisturizing foundation.

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It is liquid foundation and contains extra moisturizers.

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It is very thin and it looks like no foundation has been applied.

2. Combination skin •

Moisturizing foundation/oil–free. You can choose what you or your client prefers.

3. Oily skin •

Matte, oil–free foundation.

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Still a liquid but the texture is thicker that moisturizing foundation.

4. Sensitive skin •

Foundation with no perfume in it.

5. Problem skin •

Medicinal foundation, prescribed by a dermatologist.


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Foundation can further be categorized into the type of coverage that you need: 1. Almost none to medium coverage – Moisturizing foundation. (Water –in – oil basis) •

Only creates the base for other products that are going to be used.

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If you can’t find the correct color, then colors can be mixed.

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Your natural skin color still shows; ideal for people that prefer a thin foundation.

2a. Medium coverage – Oil-free foundation. (Oil–in–water basis) •

Most common foundation and is readily available in the most colors.

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Ideal for everyday wear and for persons that still wants to look natural.

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Skin shows a bit through this foundation.

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Can be mixed to get the correct color.

2b. Medium coverage - Powder foundation •

Also called a 2-in-1 foundation.

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It is liquid foundation mixed with powder.

3. Full coverage – Cream foundation •

It is very thick and covers your whole face but it still looks natural.

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Used for theatre make-up, older woman, people with a problem skin.

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Can not be mixed together to get the correct color. Watch the Video Tutorial


Handbook

9. How to Apply Foundation

Steps in brief: 1. Spoon out some foundation onto your spatula and apply onto your hand. 2.

Take a latex sponge or foundation brush and gently apply the correct color foundation onto your / your client’s skin, starting on your / her forehead, nose, cheeks, and chin and blending outwards.

3. Take your foundation sponge and blend the foundation in downwards stroking movements. Make sure that no make-up is visible and all is blended in well. 4. Apply green cover stick before your foundation if you have any pimples or red areas. 5. Take a brush and apply some cover stick onto your eyelids, around your nose and onto your mouth. This creates a base for your make-up and ensures that it stays on longer. 6. Dab your powder puff into some loose translucent powder and lightly press the powder all over your face, making sure that the powder is visible. 7. Then take your powder brush and remove all excess powder from your face. Your skin will have a somewhat satin appearance / look. Benefits of loose translucent powder: •

Loose powder creates a more natural look.

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It sets the basis of your make-up – foundation, cover stick.


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It creates a more matte appearance.

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It blots any oiliness. Watch the Video Tutorial


Handbook

10. How to Apply Cover Stick / Concealer

The importance of cover stick: •

It ensures that your eye shadow stays on longer and looks fresh the whole day.

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It enlightens your eyelid and covers any marks, etc.

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The ideal cover stick must be creamy and it must not stretch your skin when you apply it

Brief Description: •

Analyze the skin and see if there are any pimples, blemishes or spots that needs to be covered.

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Any red areas such as pimples or red veins must be covered with green cover stick BEFORE the foundation.

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Purple cover stick is used to eliminate any yellow areas on your skin, such as pigmentation marks.

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Orange cover stick is used to eliminate any blue areas on your skin, such as dark circles or marks underneath your eyes. Watch the Video Tutorial


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11. How to Apply Loose Powder

Steps in brief: 1. Dab your powder puff into some loose translucent powder and lightly press the powder all over your face, making sure that the powder is visible. 2. Then take your powder brush and remove all excess powder from your face. Your skin will have a somewhat satin appearance / look. Benefits of loose translucent powder: •

Loose powder creates a more natural look.

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It sets the basis of your make-up – foundation, cover stick.

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It creates a more matte appearance.

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It blots any oiliness. Watch the Video Tutorial


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12. How to Fill In Your Eyebrows

Steps in brief: 1. Take your eyebrow brush and brush your eyebrows in an upwards direction. 2. Then take the brush and “drag” down any hair that may be out of their place. 3. Take your eyeliner applicator brush and dab it into a natural eye shadow color that is the same as your hair color. 4. Remove any excess by rubbing the brush onto your hand. 5. Take the brush and gently rub the color all over your eyebrow, ensuring that you fill in the whole eyebrow. 6. For colored skins where there are no visible eyebrows, an eyeliner pencil must be used. Make sure that the pencil you’re using is of high quality. After you have created an eyebrow line, fill it in with an eye shadow color just to round it off. Watch the Video Tutorial


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13. How to Apply Eye Shadow

Types of Eye Shadows: •

Compact - most common.

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Loose, powder eye shadow

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Cream eye shadow

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Stick eye shadow

Categorized into 3 groups: •

Highlighters - cream, white, beige colors (very light and neutral)

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Medium colors - like blue, green, brown, grey, pink, etc.

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Eyeliner colors – black, dark brown, grey.

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Matte colors – creates a good illusion.

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Glitter/shiny colors - let the illusion disappear.

Application in brief: 1. Look at your client’s eye shape so that you know how to correctly apply the eye shadow. 2. Take your highlighting brush and apply any of the above mentioned highlighting colors onto your eyelid and also just underneath your eyebrow. 3. Then you take your eye shadow applicator brush and apply any of the above mentioned medium colors in the fold of your eye. Copyright © University of Makeup

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4. Then you can take your eyeliner brush to apply any of the above mentioned eyeliner colors onto your eye. You can also take an eyeliner pencil, whichever one you decide to use. Watch the Video Tutorial


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14. How to Apply Mascara

There are 4 types of mascara on the market: 1. Waterproof mascara that has to be removed with eye make-up remover. 2.

Translucent mascara has no color at all and is used to highlight already thick lashes. This mascara can also be used when you do make-up for men.

3. Lash-building mascara already has lash thickener in it. 4. With block-type mascara, you must add water to create the perfect texture. Steps in brief: 1. Apply lash thickener before your mascara. This lash thickener has a white silicone texture and will become translucent after about 5 minutes. 2.

Choose mascara that will complement the make-up that you have used on yourself / your client. Brown or black mascara is the most common colors.

3. When applying mascara on your client, let her close her eyes and then take her eyelid in a “grip”. Apply the mascara in zigzag movements. 4. One coat is perfectly fine, but you can apply two coats. 5. Take your eyebrow brush and comb gently through your / your client’s eyelashes, making sure that you separate each eyelash from the other. 6. For smudged mascara take a wet cotton bud and gently wipe it over the areas that need correction. Watch the Video Tutorial Copyright © University of Makeup

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15. How to Apply Blush

There are 2 types of blush: 1. Compact blush 2. Cream blush Benefits of using blush: 1. It gives your skin a natural glow. 2. It gives shape to your face and accentuates your cheekbones. Application in brief: 1.

Take your contour brush and dab it into a suitable blush color.

2. Make sure that you accentuate the cheekbones by looking at your/the client’s face shape. 3. Then take your blusher brush and blend the already applied blush. Watch the Video Tutorial


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16. How to Apply Lip Liner, Lipstick and Lip Gloss

Steps in brief: 1. Make sure that your lip liner pencil is soft and not too sharp. 2. Have a look whether you or your client have full or thin lips. 3. For thin lips – Draw the lip line just outside your or your client’s natural lip line. Choose a natural light or shiny lipstick to fill in your lips. This will create the illusion that you have bigger lips. 4.

For fuller lips – Draw the lip line just inside your or your client’s natural lip line. Use darker colors such as plum, red, etc. This color will make your lips look smaller.

5. Use your lipstick brush and dab it into your lip gloss pot. Watch the Video Tutorial


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17. How to Apply Lipstick to Stay on Longer

Steps in brief: 1. Firstly start of by applying foundation, a bit of cover stick and lots of powder onto your lips. This will set the base for your make-up. 2.

Take a lip liner pencil, similar to the lipstick color that you are going to use and apply it either just inside your natural lip line if you have full lips, or just on the outside of your natural lip line for smaller lips.

3.

Take your lipstick color and apply it with your lipstick brush.

4. Apply some powder over this. 5. Repeat steps 2 and 3. Watch the Video Tutorial


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18. How to Correct Makeup Mistakes

Useful items to have: 1. Tissues 2. Cotton buds 3. Latex sponge Brief description: •

Tone down dark make-up by softly wiping over these areas with a latex sponge.

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This technique can also be used for blush that is too dark.

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Take a cotton bud, dip it into make-up remover and lightly wipe it over any uneven lines such as eyeliner or lip liner. This can also be used to blend in lip liner pencil for a softer look.

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Take a tissue and blot it on your lips to remove any excess lipstick. Watch the Video Tutorial


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19. How to Apply Day Makeup

Steps in brief: 1. Test the foundation on your cheekbones to know if you are using the correct color. 2. Use your foundation brush to apply the foundation. This will ensure that no streaks are visible on your face. Don’t apply a pink or yellow toned foundation to give color to the skin, the foundation is only the basis to any make-up. 3. Use cover stick that is 1-2 shades lighter than your skin. This can be applied over the whole eyelid and also on blemishes and acne scars. Green cover stick can be used to cover any red areas on the skin. Just make sure that you blend the cover stick well. 4. Loose transparent powder is the best to use. Avoid any powder that has a glow, because this will create a wet look. Concentrate especially on the eyelids and the lips. The main purpose of the powder is to ensure that the eye shadow and lipstick stays on for longer. 5. Take an eyebrow / eye liner pencil and dip it into some brown or black eye shadow and fill in your eyebrows. Then you will take your highlighting brush and dip it into beige, gold or white eye shadow color and apply this color all over your eyelid. Then you will take your eye shadow applicator brush and dip it into the required eye shadow color that you want to apply. This color you will apply in the fold of your eye, making sure that you follow the natural shape of your eye. 6. Then you can apply eye liner on top of your eyelashes in a very soft line and blend it in very well just to soften it up. You can use a brown or black eye liner or otherwise you can use any other color that will compliment the eye shadow color that you have on. Copyright © University of Makeup

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7. Apply 1 or 2 coats of mascara onto your eyelashes in zigzag movements. This zigzag movement will ensure that your eyelashes are separated from each other and it will also make your eyelashes appear longer. 8. Then you can apply blush- one with a glow or either one that has a matte finished look. The blush must be applied softly to the cheeks or just underneath your cheekbones and it must be blended in well, otherwise it will look harsh and unnatural. A creamy blush has the tendency to smudge and it can also create a wet look. 9. Line your lips with a soft and natural lip liner pencil and blend this lip liner in by using a cotton bud and moving it softly over that line. Then you will take your lipstick brush and fill in your lips with a soft peachy or pinkish color. Finish the look off by applying lip gloss to your lips. Watch the Video Tutorial


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20. How to Go From Day to Evening Makeup

Steps in brief: 1. Look at you or your client’s eye shape so that you know how to apply the eye shadow correctly. 2.

Take your highlighting brush and apply any of the above mentioned highlighting colors onto your eyelid and also just underneath your eyebrow.

3.

Then you take your eye shadow applicator brush and apply any of the above mentioned medium colors in the fold of your eye.

4.

Then you can take your eyeliner brush to apply any of the above mentioned eyeliner colors onto your eye. You can also take an eyeliner pencil, whichever one you decide to use.

What to remember: •

Use a darker eye shadow over your natural eye shadow. Make it darker on the outside corners of your eyes. Smokey eyes always look good!

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Use a darker eyeliner / liquid eyeliner. You can even draw the line thicker in the evening to create a more dramatic effect.

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Blush or highlighter

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Darker lipstick color. If you do not have darker lipstick with you, then you can always use a darker lip pencil, fill in your lip line and take the lip pencil color all over your lips.

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Lip gloss Watch the Video Tutorial


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21. How to Apply False Eyelashes

To make it easy for you, firstly do your eye make-up before applying these eyelashes. What you need: 1. Tweezers 2. False eyelash strips or individual lashes 3. Eyelash glue 4. Cotton buds 5. Scissor Steps in brief when applying eyelash strips: 1. Take your tweezers to remove each eyelash from the holder. 2. Put your eyelash strips over your client’s eyes to see if you need to make any adjustments to it. 3. Use a cotton bud to take out the glue from its holder and then place it neatly onto the eyelash strip. 4. Gently put the eyelash strip onto your / client’s eyes and press it down softly with the back-end of your tweezers. Make sure not to glue your / client’s eyelids together. 5. Let your client open her eyes and then make some corrections to her eyeliner if there is to be done. Copyright © University of Makeup

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6. Take some black mascara and apply one coat over the eyelashes, making sure that you comb your natural eyelashes upwards towards the eyelashes. This just gives it a more natural appearance. Steps in brief when applying individual lashes: 1. Take your tweezers to remove each eyelash from the holder. 2. “Dip” the eyelashes’ end in your eyelash glue and gently push it down against your / client’s eye – beginning on the outside corner and working inwards. 3. Take some black mascara and apply one coat over the eyelashes, making sure that you comb your natural eyelashes upwards towards the eyelashes. This just gives it a more natural appearance. 4. Take your eyebrow comb and divide each hair from another. Voila! Watch the Video Tutorial


Handbook

22. How to do Perfect Smokey Eyes

Steps in brief: 1. Comb your eyebrows and fill it in with an eye shadow color that is the same as your hair color. 2. Take your highlighting brush and use either a white, gold or beige color. Apply this color underneath your eyebrow. 3. Take your eye shadow applicator brush and dip it into grey eye shadow. This you will apply all over your eyelid or just in the fold of your eye. 4. Take a tissue and clean your eye shadow applicator brush. Take the same brush and dip it into black eye shadow. Apply the eye shadow in the fold of your eye but at the outside corner of your eye – making a little V as you go downwards to the outside corner of your eyelid. 5. Take your eye shadow blending brush and blend in the black eye shadow that you applied. 6. Take a black eye liner pencil, making sure that it is not too sharp and draw a line just above your eyelashes. If you do it on yourself, close one of your eyes and look with the other eye in the mirror so that you can see what you are doing. Place your finger at the outside corner of your eye and softly pull your eyelid so that it is easier to apply your eyeliner. Draw the line almost into your eyelash line. Do it on both eyes and then take your eyeliner brush, dip it into black eye shadow and just “smear” the color gently over the eyeliner line. This will soften the look. 7. Take some black mascara and apply one or two coats onto your eyelashes. 8. For a very dramatic look, you might want to put on some individual lashes and finish that off with a touch of mascara. Copyright © University of Makeup

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9. A smoky eye do not always have to be black, you can use various color such as brown, plum, etc. Just make sure that you stay in the same color chart when doing it with another color. Buy eye shadows that come in a trio of the same color. Watch the Video Tutorial


Handbook

23. How to do the Perfect Pin-Up Look

Steps in brief: 1. Prepare your / client’s face by putting on some foundation, cover stick and loose translucent powder. 2. Take black eyeliner pencil or liquid eyeliner and apply it over the top of your eyelid drawing it slightly out at the end of your eye line. 3. Put on some individual eyelashes or eyelash strips and cover it with a coat of black mascara. 4. Apply just a touch of blush or a tan-like color to the apples of your cheeks. 5. Take a bright red lip liner pencil and apply it all over your lip line. Just neaten it with a wet cotton bud if you went over the natural lip line. Lightly cover the inside of your lips with the lip liner pencil. 6. Take your lipstick brush and apply the same reddish color onto your / client’s lips. Watch the Video Tutorial


Handbook

24. Your 5 Minute Makeup Look

What you need: 1. SPF 2. Foundation 3. Eyeliner pencil in black, plum, navy blue, etc. 4. Eye shadow in the same color as the eyeliner pencil. 5. Eyebrow comb 6. Natural lipstick 7. Black mascara Steps in brief: 1. Apply some SPF onto your skin to protect it from any sun damage. 2. Pour a pea – size amount of foundation onto the top of your hand. (Make sure your hands are clean). 3. Take your foundation brush or sponge and apply little amounts of foundation over your forehead, nose, cheeks, and chin and make sure that every area of your face is covered. 4. Take your latex sponge and lightly blend all around your forehead, sides of your face and chine area. 5. Comb your eyebrows. Copyright © University of Makeup

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6. Choose an eyeliner color and apply it over the top of your eyelid and also underneath your eyes. Take your eye shadow applicator brush and lightly apply the same color eye shadow over the eyeliner lines. 7. Take your lipstick and make three dots underneath your cheekbones, in line with each other and stretching from your nose tip to the top of your nose bridge. Take your finger and blend these dots in. 8. Wipe your lipstick with a tissue and apply the same color to your lips. 9. Finish off this look with black mascara. Watch the Video Tutorial


Handbook

25. Eye Makeup Tips When Wearing Glasses

Here are some tips to keep in mind when choosing the correct glasses / spectacles for you: •

The thickness of the lens must be the same as that of the frame.

•

The glass’s or spectacle’s frame must sit comfortable on your face.

•

The frame must be functional and practical.

•

The glasses must also be attractive and suit your face shape.

Face Shapes Round Face •

If you have a round face, then it is very important that you do not buy a round – shaped frame, because your face will look more round.

•

It is ideal to choose a square shaped frame – this will soften the roundness of your face.

•

If your square shaped frame is multi – colored, then the darker color of the two must be on the outside corners of the frame.

Square Shaped Face •

For a square shaped face, it is important not to buy a square or rounded framethis will make your face look funny.

•

The emphasis must be on your eyebrows, so the ideal shape will be an oval or rectangular frame.


Handbook

Heart Shaped Face •

Any frame can be worn for a heart-shaped face, except a tear dropped one.

Long Face •

If you have a long face, then the emphasis must be on the width of the frame on the side. A big frame can be worn with ease.

Please note that the frame must never be underneath your eyebrows. Hairstyles Feathery Hairstyle •

If you have a feathery hairstyle, then a plain frame will look suitable with that.

Formal Hairstyle •

With a formal hairstyle a striking frame can be worn.

Always remember that your frame’s color must suit the color of your hair. Eye Shapes Wide Apart •

For eyes that are wide apart, wear an oval or rectangular frame.

Close to Each Other •

For eyes that are close to each other, it is important to wear a rounded shape. This will give the impression that the eyes are not so close to each other.

Always ensure that your eyes are right in the middle of each lens. Nose Shapes Long Nose •

If someone has a long nose, then the bridge of the glasses must sit low onto your client’s nose. This will actually divide your nose in half and make it look shorter.

Short Nose •

If your client has a short nose, then the bridge of the glasses must be a bit higher.

Forehead Shapes High Forehead •

For a high forehead, ensure that the frame of the glasses sits just above your eyebrows.


Handbook

Short Forehead •

For a short forehead, the frame of the glasses must sit onto your eyebrows.

How to do makeup for someone that is far-seeing / long – sighted: •

Such a person can see very well on far distances, but not on short distances.

•

The lenses of these glasses are normally very thick and this will make the eyes appear bigger. It is thus very important to apply your make-up very neatly because every fault, etc. will show through your lenses.

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Use light make-up eye shadows, not any shimmering make-up, black eyeliner or black mascara. Keep it subtle by using rather brown mascara and remember to put the eye shadow color in the crease of your eye, following your eye’s shape.

How to apply makeup for someone that is short-sighted / near – sighted: •

Such a person can see very well on short distances, but not so good on far distances.

•

The lenses of the glasses will not be thick at all and this will make the eyes appear smaller.

•

Use stronger colors such as charcoal, dove-blue, plum, etc. and remember that the emphasis must fall on the fold of your eyes and the outer corners of your eyes.

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You can use a shimmering color over your existing eye shadow just to accentuate your eyes.

•

Finish it off by applying black eyeliner and mascara. Watch the Video Tutorial


Handbook

26. Bridal Makeup Look: Young and Beautiful Bride

Watch the Video Tutorial

27. Bridal Makeup Look: Elegant Bride

Watch the Video Tutorial Copyright © University of Makeup

Handbook

28. Bridal Makeup Look: Shiny, Happy Bride


29. Bridal Makeup Look: Soft, Mysterious Bride


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30. Bridal Makeup Look: Beautiful Asian Bride


31. Bridal Makeup Look: Modern Bride


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32. Bridal Makeup Look: Romantic Bride


33. Celebrity Makeup Look: Eva Longoria


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34. Celebrity Makeup Look: Penelope Cruz


35. Celebrity Makeup Look: Rihanna


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36. Celebrity Makeup Look: Angelina Jolie


37. Celebrity Makeup Look: Gwen Stefani Copyright © University of Makeup

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38. Celebrity Makeup Look: Jessica Alba



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39. Celebrity Makeup Look: Sandra Bullock


40. Photo Shoot Makeup Look: Sexy Crimson



Handbook

41. Corrective Makeup on Different Face Shapes

Brief description: •

Always use matte eye shadow when you do corrective make-up.

•

Corrective make-up works on the principle of highlighting and shading.


Handbook

•

Dark colors pushes something back and make it appear smaller where as lighter colors brings out something and make it appear bigger.

Long face Characteristics: •

High forehead

•

High cheekbones

•

Long chin

•

Small face

Corrective Steps: 1. Do shading around your hairline and at your chin. 2. Highlight your cheekbones with a light matte eye shadow and apply blush just underneath your cheeks. 3. A fringe is good to wear with this face shape. Square face Characteristics: •

Wide forehead, cheeks and jaw line.

Corrective Steps: 1. Do shading at the sides of your head (temples) and also at the sides your jaw line. 2. Highlight your cheeks. Round face Characteristics: •

Round hairline, jaw line and wide cheeks that cannot be seen.

•

Sometimes a person with this face shape will have a double – chin.

Corrective Steps: 1. Do shading at the sides of your head at the temples and also at the sides of your jaw line. 2. Highlight your cheeks. Oval / diamond shaped face This is the ideal face shape. Copyright © University of Makeup

Handbook

Characteristics: •

Narrow forehead

•

Small jaw line

•

Accentuated cheekbones.

No correction required. Heart- shaped face Characteristics: •

Heart shaped hairline

•

Wide cheeks

•

Small face

•

Sharp chin

Corrective Steps: 1. Do shading in the middle of your hairline and chin. 2. Highlight your cheekbones and the sides of your cheeks. Pear shaped face Characteristics: •

Small forehead

•

Wide cheekbones

•

Strong jaw line

Corrective Steps: 1. Do highlighting at the sides of your forehead. 2. Highlight your cheeks. 3. Do shading around your jaw line.



Handbook

42. Corrective Makeup on Different Nose Shapes

Description in brief: Long Nose:


Handbook

•

Make a long nose appear shorter by doing shading at the tip of the nose and applying highlighter onto the bridge of the nose.

Wide Nose: •

Do shading on the sides of a wide nose and highlight the bridge of the nose.

Hawk Nose: •

If your client has a hawk- nose then you must do shading on the hawk of the nose. Apply highlighter on the bridge of the nose.

Snub Nose: •

For a snub nose (tip- tilted), it is important to do shading on the part where it is tilted.

•

Do highlighting on the upper part of your nose.

Sharp Nose: •

A sharp nose can be corrugated by doing shading on the bridge of the nose and by applying highlighter at the sides of the nose. Watch the Video Tutorial

43. Corrective Makeup on Different Jaw Lines

Description in Brief: Copyright © University of Makeup

Handbook

For a very strong jaw line you must do shading on your jaw line and highlighting underneath. For a weak jaw line that cannot be seen, you must highlight the jaw and do shading underneath. Watch the Video Tutorial

44. Corrective Makeup on Different Cheekbones

Description in Brief: Copyright © University of Makeup

Handbook

•

When your cheekbones are not that visible, always remember to apply blush underneath them and highlighter onto them.

•

If your client has high cheekbones, then the blush must be applied onto the cheekbones with the highlighter just underneath your cheekbones.

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If you want have your face appear narrower then the blush must be applied closer to your nose.

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If you have a small face and wants to make it appear wider, then you must apply the blush a bit further from your nose. Watch the Video Tutorial

45. Corrective Makeup on Different Lip Shapes

Steps in brief: Copyright © University of Makeup

Handbook

Small Lips •

To make small lips appear bigger, apply the lip liner just outside your natural lip line.

•

Use light and glossy lipstick – this will create the illusion that your lips are fuller.

Fuller Lips •

To make fuller lips appear smaller, you must apply the lip liner on the inside of your natural lip line. Use dark and matte lipstick – this will create the illusion that your mouth is smaller. Watch the Video Tutorial

47. Corrective Makeup on Different Forehead Shapes

Steps in brief: Copyright © University of Makeup

Handbook

High Forehead •

If your client has a high forehead then you must do shading all around the hairline.

Small Forehead •

If your client has a small forehead then your must highlight all around her hairline. Watch the Video Tutorial

48. How to Give a Makeup Lesson

Description in brief: Copyright © University of Makeup

Handbook

•

In a make-up lesson you will personally teach your client / clients how to apply make-up for casual occasions, work and special occasions.

•

You will also show your client how to go from day to evening makeup.

•

Ask your client to bring her daily make-up along so that you can give advice on the products that she is using. You will also teach your client what colors to use to accentuate her best assets. Watch the Video Tutorial

Join One of Our Premium Makeup Courses:

My Makeup Course The “My Makeup Course” is an online make up course for women who would like to learn how to apply make up professionally for any occasion. Whether it’s for casual, work, party or any formal event, you will know exactly how to make yourself absolutely beautiful. The My Makeup Course includes beginner make up tutorials such as “How to do Smokey Eyes” to advanced make up videos such as “Celebrity Makeup Look: Penelope Cruz”. You’ll exactly learn how to get the look Copyright © University of Makeup

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you want for your workplace and any other occasion. How to Apply Makeup

Bridal Makeup Course The “Bridal Makeup Course” is an online bridal makeup course for women who is about to get married and would like to learn how to apply their wedding make up perfectly for their wedding day. You will learn how to become your own professional makeup artist. The Bridal Makeup Course includes beginner makeup tutorials such as “How to Apply Eyeliner and Eye Shadow” to advanced videos such as “Bridal Makeup Look: Modern Bride” You’ll exactly learn how to get the look you want for your wedding day. Wedding Makeup

Full Makeup Course The “Full Makeup Course” is an online make up artist course for women and men who would like to become professional makeup artists. This make up artistry course is the ideal alternative to traditional make up schools. It includes beginner make up videos such as “Makeup Brushes That You Need” to advanced videos where you’ll exactly learn how to create stunning celebrity, bridal and photo shoot looks. We even teach you how to give a makeup lesson. Also complete our online examination and receive the University of Makeup Certificate. Makeup Artist Course


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