Leather Clamshell Gauntlets plans

Leather Clamshell Gauntlets

LEATHER CLAMSHELL GAUNTLETS Sir al Hadad al Hadi

Tools and Materials One large sheet of poster board Approximately five square feet of 15 oz. leather Approximately one square foot of 5 oz. leather Closed cell foam: 1/2 x 1 x 8 inches Carpet or utility knife and fresh blades Edge beveler Hole punch Rivets: two packs of 100 each Rivet setting tools

1: Determine the proper pattern size To determine the correct size of the pattern to fit your hand, you will need to grasp a sword hilt (or something of approximately the same size). Lay the 1/2 inch thick foam over your knuckles so that both ends of the foam strip touch the sword hilt. You will probably need to shorten the length of the foam so that it still lays close to your hand. Remove the foam, lay it flat and measure the length. This length will be called the measurement bar. Now you can have the pattern enlarged until the measurement bar on the pattern is the same length as that of the foam. (Many copy shops have machines which make variable enlargements. Here is a formula for determining at what percentage to enlarge the pattern in this article: measurement bar of own hand /measurement bar of pattern = % to enlarge pattern. For example, 7 inches / 2 inches = 3 .5, or 350%.) You do not have to follow steps 2, 3, and 4. However, leather is usually fairly expensive, and I would rather make a mistake with inexpensive poster board than with expensive leather.

2: Make the poster board pattern Take your enlarged paper pattern, cut it out, and then trace it onto the poster board. You will only need to trace the pieces marked for 15 oz. leather at this time. Note that the pattern is for one hand only; you will need to turn over all the pieces and trace them out again for the other hand. Twoply poster board works well for this because the front and back are different colors, but you may want to write "left" and "right" on the appropriate pattern pieces (I, K, L, see figure 4). Cut out the poster board pieces, and lay them in the order of the original pattern layout.

3: Fit the pattern The next step is taping the poster board gauntlet together. I usually use duct tape (the stuff of magic) for this job because of its adhesiveness and flexibility. As you fit the pieces together, try them on your hand. Make sure there are no unwanted gaps, that the pieces go past your fingertips, and that your thumb is covered. Mark or make note where

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the pattern needs to be adjusted.

4: Adjust the pattern Now disassemble the pattern. You may have more success cutting the tape rather than trying to peel it off the poster board. Make the adjustments you feel are necessary and reassemble the pattern, checking the fit. If t has the proper coverage and is comfortable, go to the next step. If not, then readjust the pattern until it fits the way it should. If you are not sure about coverage regulations and how a gauntlet should fit, then check with your local knight-marshal. He (or she) will know the rules and may have some suggestions for you.

5: Lay out the pattern on the leather The reason for this step is to make sure that you get the most from your leather. By laying out the pattern pieces all at once you can ensure the least amount of waste possible. Remember that there are left and right hand pieces while laying them out; it makes a difference on a few of the pieces, like the thumbs and the plate that will cover the back of your hands. Once you have all the pieces laid out, trace the patterns onto the leather with a #2 pencil. It will leave a light, indented line that you should be able to follow when you cut out the pieces.

6: Cut out the leather and bevel the edges To cut out your leather, I recommend that you use a utility knife with replaceable blades, and see that the blades are fresh: a sharp blade is easier to control than a dull blade. Do not get in a hurry when you are using the knife, because if you slip you could cut yourself, ruin a pattern piece, or damage the leather. Go slowly until you become accustomed to the knife; let it do the cutting. If it is not cutting properly, it may have a dull blade; take the time to replace it and resume cutting. Once all the pieces have been cut out you may bevel the edges. Edge beveling can be skipped if you don't have the tools; however, beveling the edges will give the finished piece a more professional appearance.

7: Punch the holes The holes, as marked on the pattern, should be a good guide for placing them on the leather. Be careful not to punch any holes too close to the edge of the leather. A good rule of thumb is to place the hole at least its own diameter from the edge. If your hole is 1/8 ", then make sure that the edge of the hole is 1/8 " from the edge of the leather. I punch holes between 1/8 " and 1/4 " from all edges. Do not mark and punch the three holes on the back of the hand piece (K) or the three holes at the base of the thumb piece (J); you will be mark these later when the gauntlet is assembled.

8: Dye your pieces If you wish to do any leather tooling to decorate your gauntlets, now is the time, before you dye the individual pieces. As for coloring leather, I recommend using a spirit dye. It will penetrate through minor oils and dirt. Choose the dye color you want. Apply it with a brush or dauber to evenly cover each piece. Allow to dry, then apply a second coat. Allow the second coat to dry and then buff it down with a soft, lint-free cloth.



9: Assembly The first section to assemble is the clamshell that will cover your fingers. Start with the first two pieces (A and B) from the fingertip end of the clamshell. Start riveting the thin leather (piece B) under the thick leather at one end of the line of holes. As you rivet each hole the thick leather will start bending and the thin leather will start folding in half lengthwise. Once all of the holes in the first row are riveted, start attaching the third piece (C). Use the same method as described above; always keep the thin leather under the thick leather. Continue assembling the clamshell until pieces A-G are riveted together. Add the short hinge piece to complete one clamshell, and repeat the preceding steps to assemble your second set of clamshell pieces.

Now assemble the hand and wrist pieces (I and J). This is done by riveting the center hole first, then working toward either side. After the hand is mounted to the wrist, curl the wrist around and overlap the ends. Rivet each pair of the three holes together. The thumb pieces (K and L), are assembled next, in much the same manner as the clamshells. Start riveting the thin leather (piece L) to the underside of the thick leather. Figure 2 indicates the holes in order of assembly.

Mounting the clamshell to the half gauntlet will be fairly simple now that you have assembled the separate sections. Place the hand and wrist assembly over your hand and hold it in place. (If you are planning to have any type of padding in this gauntlet, now is the time to put it there so that your gauntlet will fit securely and not too tight.) Place the clamshell over your fingers and align it over the hand/wrist piece. Mark the three holes in the hinge piece onto the back of the hand piece. Punch the marks and rivet the clamshell in place. Repeat this for the second hand. Mounting the thumbs to the gauntlet is done in the same manner as above. Place the gauntlet on your hand and then fit the thumb in a good alignment for your hand. Mark and punch the holes. Rivet the thumb in place, and repeat the process for the other hand. Placement of the retaining straps is a matter of comfort and choice. I place one strap in each of the following places:



on the thumb, across the palm, and across the fingertips. The straps I use are 1/2 " wide, of 4-6 oz. leather.

10: Finish There are many finishes you can use for your gauntlets, from neatsfoot oil to clear lacquer. As pointed out in step 8, you can tool the leather prior to dyeing it, or dye it to coordinate with the rest of your armor. Whatever final treatment you choose, I recommend that you apply a light coat of clear satin enamel to the outside of the gauntlets and a thin coat of neatsfoot oil compound to the inside areas. This will protect as well as help preserve the leather.

Closing Notes There are many options that can be used with this pattern. One assembly variation that I have seen contains no rivets. All seams were sewn in a double stitch or cross stitch manner, but a running leather stitch could also be used (for a diagram and leather tooling tips, see A 15tb Century Italian Quiver, by Master Johannes, in Seasons, Summer A.S. XXVI). Another version replaces the interconnecting strips of 4-6 oz. leather with formed and shaped steel strips. A third method is to treat the leather gauntlet with wax to harden it. Brushing molten wax on your assembled gauntlet is probably easier and is preferable to boiling the entire piece. Remember, you must take care of any leather armor so that it will last as long as possible. Keep it clean, allow it to dry out (never put it away wet), and keep a little oil on it to preserve it. Resource for Leather and Supplies: The Leather Factory 1301 William Street P.O. Box 2430 Chattanooga, TN 37409




Leather Clamshell Gauntlets plans

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