Edward Marlo’s
RIFFLE SHUFFLE FINALE
Volume Three – Riffle Shuffle Mastery
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© 1967 by Edward Edwa rd Marlo – First Edition (limited) © 2008 by Jon Racherbaumer
The E-BOOK was written, edited, and laid out in the United States of America for a select cabal of serious students and practitioners of o f magic. Once this media is selectively disseminated, its knowledge and substance is immediately democratized and this largesse, which some may call “intellectual property,” p roperty,” is then share-ware— memes to be individually protected and prudently passed on to those who will treat it with the same trust and regard motivating its provider. provid er.
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© 1967 by Edward Edwa rd Marlo – First Edition (limited) © 2008 by Jon Racherbaumer
The E-BOOK was written, edited, and laid out in the United States of America for a select cabal of serious students and practitioners of o f magic. Once this media is selectively disseminated, its knowledge and substance is immediately democratized and this largesse, which some may call “intellectual property,” p roperty,” is then share-ware— memes to be individually protected and prudently passed on to those who will treat it with the same trust and regard motivating its provider. provid er.
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FOREWORD
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will not lead the reader here with a lot of verbiage. Suffice it to say s ay that this Riffle Shuffle Shuffle Finale is just that – the third and final volume in the series, and is made available only to those who have the original preceding volumes - namely the “Riffle Shuffle Systems” and the” Patented False Shuffle.” While there are three sections to this volume, if the student absorbs only Section One, he will be amply rewarded with a system s ystem of Culling and Cull Stocking that he will find not only easy to do but easy to remember as to procedures, and he will find himself eventually using no other. An item titled “The Vanishing Aces” actually has little place in this treatise, outside of the recovery of the Aces; however, as reference has been made to this item, it is included for completeness. Other so called unrelated items were, of course, included to complete the clarity of related subjects in which they are referred to as being of essential use. Ever since De Land introduced the Edge Readers to magic, there have always been attempts at duplicating the system with other packs. The one described in Section Two will be found quite efficient and easy to prepare. For the demonstration of Riffle Shuffle Control over any card in the deck, it is difficult to top. As for the effects, it is hoped that the reader can find use for the majority of them, although anyone of them handled properly will get a good reception from your viewers. All that remains is to wish you, dear reader, the best of success with your” Riffle Shuffle Finale” copy of which this is #__________of a limited edition. Cardially yours,
Edward Marlo
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EFFECTS
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In describing the various effects, it will be assumed that the student is thoroughly familiar with the technical terminology as applied to Riffle Shuffles. While this will cut down the descriptive text, actually the brevity will at least give for a clear cut procedure unbroken by interspersed technical descriptions. In the event one cannot recall the technical handling of any maneuver there remains only to “look it up” in the previous Riffle Shuffle Shuffle volumes as maybe referred to in the effect described. While this may be disconcerting, it will give the mind a chance to reactivate itself and you will surely benefit from the exercise. Those effects already detailed in Sections One and Two naturally will not be repeated here unless the method differs sufficiently to warrant such description.
DARING TRIUMPH Effect: The familiar one of the cards being shuffled face up into face-down cards after which they right themselves; however, the appearance of this method to the audience is quite impressive be they laymen or magicians. The major factor is the ribbon-spreading of the deck to actually show that the cards have been mixed face up and face f ace down. The handling is such that you may be accused of using a Stripper Pack. First have a card selected and control it to the top. Once it is on top, indulge in a few Riffle Shuffles that will seemingly lose the top card yet bring it back to the top. A suggestion is to use the 1st Method in “Shuffle and Cut Discoveries” - 3rd Section of The Patented False Shuffle . With the selection still on top, the right hand cuts off the top half of the pack. The left hand now takes this packet, with left thumb under the packet and fingers on top, to turn it face up. Right hand grasps the edges of the packet p acket and places it face up, and jogged to the left for a third of its length, onto the face-down portion. Right hand now turns over the whole deck, which automatically brings a face-up section jogged to the right. Both hands now separate the sections so that face-up f ace-up cards go to the right and face -own cards are on the left. You are about to shuffle the cards. The above step, besides adding to the deception of a top stock or card 5
control, is covered by the patter line, “I'll will cut the cards and place some face up. As you can see, some cards are face up and some are face down.”
At the completion of this sentence you are ready to start the riffle shuffle. Riffle Shuffle the face-up portion into the face-down half, letting the top card of the face-down half fall last or on top. This is the selected card. You now apparently push the two portions into each other and square up. Actually you execute the mechanics of the Fake Push-thru-Shuffle as described on page 65 to 68 of Riffle Shuffle Systems up to that point where the cards are again in a Strip Out condition; however, the selection has been transferred over and onto the face-up cards. With the cards in a Strip-Out condition, the right hand grasps the sides of the deck, moves it slightly forward, and then your right fingers lightly ribbon spread the cards downwards towards you. The spread is only about ten to twelve inches long. The left thumb is now placed on the end of spread nearest you. The right fingers go under the top end of the spread. The right hand alone now moves to gather or close up the spread. This will result with the both hands over the deck again. At this point repeat the actions of the “Fake Push Thru.” The first action results in re-angling the cards of both face-up and face-down cards. The second action results in a Strip-Out condition of the face-down cards jogged to the left and face-up cards jogged to the right— plus the top face-down card (selection), which was originally transferred from the top of left section. At this point, execute the “Strip-Out with Double Cut,” but maintain a left thumb break between the halves after the Double Cut. 1 At this stage you have selection on top face down, covering a face-up portion of cards, and you are holding a break with your left thumb between the face-up and face-down sections.
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See Riffle Shuffle Systems , pages 22-23 for "Strip-Out with Double Cut.”
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With right hand undercut the face-down section, at the break, to the right and turn this portion face up. All these cards of course are now face up except the face-down card now on this portion. This time shuffle the cards fairly into each other, letting the face-down card to again fall last or on top. Square up and give the deck a cut leaving deck face up. Ribbon spread the cards as you say, “…and now all the cards are one way.” At this point note the single reversed card and appear surprised as you remark, “Oh, I missed one!” Ask for selection to be named. Turn the face-down card face up to disclose it as you conclude with, “That's the one I missed.” You could use the four Aces to do the above effect. If so, the lines can be changed to: “Oh, I missed a few cards. That's all right because the cards I missed are the Aces!” Quickly turn each face-down card face up. Comments: While any other type of Strip-Out technique can be used to get into the Strip-Out condition, I find the Fake Push-thru-Technique the best; however, you may find otherwise. At any rate, there should be little hesitation as you ribbon spread the pack to show the face-up/face-down mixture. It should be just long enough for spectators to realize the situation, but not long enough for the astute observer to discern the jogged condition of the pack. Then it is immediately gathered and the pack apparently resquared, actually re-angled and set-up for a strip-out, and then cut and split for another shuffle.
Some may try leaving the pack in an angled condition and make the ribbon spread. however, this odd condition is much more quickly spotted than the straight Strip-Out situation. On those rare occasions when you may end up with say about three or four extra cards still face down in what would normally be an all face-up deck except for the selection. Here is how you can manage to wriggle out.
SHUFFLING OUT
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When you have arrived at the point when all the cards are actually being shuffled in face up, except for the top face-down card on the right section, you can of course spot any misses as these will show up face down in the face-up deck. Therefore, when you have squared up the deck after the above shuffle, you know there are some extra face-down cards that have to be taken care of. You do this with additional shuffles as follows: Assume that you have four extra cards the wrong way in the face-up deck— not counting the face-down selection on top. All you do is riffle to one of the face-down cards with your left and right thumbs. When you reach a face-down card, undercut with your right hand to the right so this card becomes top card of the right-hand portion. Riffle Shuffle so that this card falls on top or onto the selection. You then have two face-down cards on top. Repeat the locating of another “wrong way” card, only this time retain this “wrong way” card on the bottom of the left section so that when your right hand undercuts this time you will have face-up card showing on the right. Let the bottom “wrong way” card riffle off first and then shuffle normally, letting the face-up section apparently be riffled into the supposed f ace-down cards. You now have one wrong way card on the bottom and one on top. Continue in the above manner, but alternating to bring a “wrong way” card to top and then the next “wrong way” card to bottom, as well as using any cuts needed to compensate for conditions where a “wrong way” card may be too near the top or bottom. If the shuffles have been correctly done, you will end up with some “wrong way” cards on top over the selection and some on the bottom. In this example, you will have two “wrong way” cards on top and two on the bottom. The next step is to get all four “wrong way” cards to the bottom. Simplest procedure is to obtain a break with left thumb on the two top cards. With right hand undercut half the cards to the top, but holding the break with left thumb. With right hand undercut, those cards below the break to the right as 8
in splitting for another shuffle. At this stage the selection, face down, is on top of right-hand section. The four “wrong way” cards are on bottom of left-hand portion. All you need to do is release the bottom four cards first and then immediately go into the Tabled Reverse, using any type of technique you prefer as long as the four “wrong way” cards become righted with rest of deck. From here the conclusion is obvious. An easy alternative for the above is to merely pull out the top and bottom cards and then turn them face up and apparently insert them face up into the face-down cards. Repeat with the next two and all of the cards will be one way. If you like, you can first turn the pack so that a face-up card shows. Pull out top and bottom cards, which will be face up. Turn them face down and reinsert then into apparently the face-up cards. Turn deck over again. This time a face-down card shows. Again, pull out the top and bottom cards, which will be face down. Turn them face up and reinsert them apparently into the face-down cards. From here conclude as before. The patter lines” for the above actions are simply along the lines of stating that “some cards are face down among face-up cards and some cards are face up among face-down cards.” This line especially applies to where you first turn the deck over and apparently face up. While I'm hoping that you never have to resort to “Shuffling Out,” the idea has other possibilities for application.
UNFARO MATCH Effect: You match a single, freely chosen, face-down card with another single card. Both turn out to be of the same value and color. This uses Edge Readers for the most convincing procedure. Begin by having spectator thoroughly shuffle the cards. After the shuffle, have spectator cut the pack and complete the cut.
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Immediately spot the edge mark of the top card. The Aces-Deuces-Threes and even Fours can easily be visually spotted as well as the Kings-QueensJacks and even Tens; however, values between Four and Ten could be a problem. Assuming the top card is of such a value as to give you difficulty this is easily overcome by grasping the sides of the deck and at same time moving in the thumb until it comes at the line that is directly below the top edgemark of the top card. Only after you have placed your thumb as just described do you have the spectator remove the top card to be placed aside face down. Naturally your thumb can now break to one of the edge-marked cards in that particular line. Assuming you have thus located the card it will of course be of a duplicate value to the original top card and now off to one side face down. Shuffle the located card to the top. Now that you have a duplicate value on top of deck you can use its edge mark to easily locate the other two values and shuffle these to the top. To get an identical duplicate in color and value to the spectator's card, you ascertain which of the top three cards are only of a single color. In other words, if the top three cards consist of two black cards and one red card then obviously the one red card is the one previously selected. The desired card may be on top. Therefore, all you do is simply take it off and place it alongside the tabled card. Then eventually show the match. In the event that the desired card is either second or third from top, then perform another shuffle with a Block Transfer. This will easily get it to top as well as keep the other two in position on top. As apparently only two cards are involved in the matching effect, you can take advantage of the other two. For example, you could casually stack these two cards for every fifth hand while you tell spectator to turn over the two tabled cards. Having shown the match, place these two cards on top of deck. You can now state that you will stack these two cards in one shuffle as you only need to stack a pair because the other two are already stacked. This 10
should be very easy, using any of the suggested methods in the previous two volumes or even the so called “Pseudo Stacking” approach as detailed in this volume. Deal out five hands and let it be seen that you have the original pair. State that this may not be enough. Deal another round and say, “Three of a kind has a better chance.”
After a pause deal out a fourth round but on the fifth card casually perform a Double Lift to show an X card. Act surprised. Then turn it down, rub it against the other three cards, and turn it face up to show that it is the fourth card as you add, “ It's a good thing I know a little magic.” The next effect is practically handled in the same way as “Unfaro Match” as far as the selection of the card and getting its subsequent duplicates; however, the climax is much stronger.
QUADRUPLE MATCH Effect: A selected and apparently unknown card is matched by three others of the same value. The spectator shuffles and cuts the cards. You spot the top card's edge mark and handle this as already explained in “Unfaro Match.” With the top selected card placed aside, go into some additional shuffles to obtain the other three cards of the same value to the top as already explained in the “Unfaro Match” effect. Deal off the top three cards face down in a row just below the selected card. Have spectator turn his selection face up. Turn your three cards face up to show the matches. Again, you can take advantage of these four cards by apparently losing them into the deck, but actually keeping them under control to be used in another effect or another demonstration. For example, you could shuffle one card onto the four— just place it on top. Then, spotting this new top card's edge mark, quickly locate the three mates. You now have two sets of four on top.
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Perform a Block Transfer of the four top cards so that one set of four will be on the left the other set of four on the right. In another shuffle, alternate these two sets of cards so that the 2nd-4th-6th and 8th cards are of the higher value and would fall to you if the game was a two-handed poker deal. If you wish, you could stack the two sets for five hands by merely interlacing during the Riffle Shuffles three cards onto each of the two cards already set. This would result in the 4th hand being the “sucker hand” and your hand, the 5 th, would be the winner. If you have made a thorough study of the Patented False Shuffle manuscript, you will realize that the so called Sucker hand can be placed into any of the four preceding hands other than the fourth. As stated the effects can stand on their own, but it may come in handy to at least realize that the cards in question can be used further.
VANISHING ACES (1950) Effect: The four Aces disappear one at a time and then are rediscovered one at a time. Remove the four Aces and openly place them face up in a row on the table. After spectators have noted them turn them face down. Onto the Aces apparently deal three cards but actually four, as three are placed onto each Ace. While any method can be used, the one here is done by holding deck in a left-hand dealing position. Your left thumb pushes off one card, which is taken into right hand in a dealing position. On the next or second card, your left thumb pushes over two cards as one, which are taken by right hand onto the card already there. On the count of “three,” only one card is taken into right hand onto those already in the hand. These four cards, apparently only three, are placed face down on top of an Ace. While the above handling is the more natural and casual, there isn't any
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reason why you couldn't get set with two cards and take these two as one on the first count. Then, while placing these cards onto an Ace, the left hand can get set again with two cards for the next count. Regardless of which method you adopt, four cards eventually go on top of each Ace as apparently three. Pick up an Ace packet. Show the Ace at the face of the packet. Place it face down into left hand. The next count is used to again show three cards, but more importantly to retain the illusion of the Ace remaining at the face of the packet. Holding the packet in left-hand dealing position, your left thumb pushes over top card. This card is taken with your right hand by the lower right corner. The right thumb is on top and the right 1st and 2nd fingers are on the bottom of this corner. The second card is pushed over and taken under the card in right hand, but in a fanned condition. On the third card, the left thumb does not push over a card. Instead these cards (3) are held perfectly square in readiness for the Marlo Bottom Deal Count variation: The right hand, with its two cards slightly fanned, comes over to the cards in left hand. ( Photo ) At this stage, the left fingers also slightly buckle the bottom card, the Ace. The right first and second fingers contact this card and hold it against the other two cards at the inner right corner as your left hand moves forward and away with two cards as one, apparently the bottom Ace. ( Photo ) Return the supposed single Ace from left hand under the three fanned cards in your right hand. Square up the packet. The Ace is now in position to be vanished by use of the Marlo Two Card Throw as follows: The left hand has the packet face down in dealing position. Your left thumb pushes over the top card and rests its right edge against table top, which shows one card already flipped face up and a second card about to be flipped over face up. (Photo ) With two cards flipped face up, the left hand is about to flip over the third card. At this stage, the left fingers buckle the bottom card slightly. 13
Immediately the left third fingertip presses in against the two cards above the buckled card. The left third fingertip presses in firmly enough to slightly crimp these two cards lengthwise. The left thumb now also moves to the left side of the cards. The position of the thumb, as well as the buckle, and left third fingertip control is seen in Photo . The left hand now turns over and sort of dumps off the two cards as one onto the other face-up cards. Remember: the left thumb, being out of the way, the third finger helps in sort of dropping the two cards face up onto the other cards. It pushes against edge of the two cards. The left hand immediately turns palm up with only the one card face down in the hand. This is now an X card, assumed to be the Ace. Without hesitation, shift the card to the fingertips. Close your left hand and perform a Thru-the-Fist move where the card is pushed, still face down, thru the left fist with your left thumb. (Photo ) Take the emerging card from left fist with your right hand. Turn it face up to show that the Ace is gone. Use this card to scoop up the other face-up cards. (Photo ) Place all these cards face down onto the deck. Pick up the second Ace packet and repeat all those actions used for Vanishing the Ace as already explained. Repeat with the third and fourth Ace packets. All of the packets have been returned to top or deck. At this stage, one Ace is fourth from top of deck and the other three Aces are five cards apart or there are four cards between each Ace. This is so providing you remembered to scoop up each packet with a card in hand when replacing each packet to top of deck. Give deck a couple of False Shuffles to keep order of Aces. Now turn over the top three cards to show no Ace on top. Return the three cards to top of deck. Show no Ace on bottom of the deck. Here perform a three-card block transfer shuffle to lose the top three cards as 14
you do a Strip-Out Cut, to carry off the excess three cards. The Ace is now on top to be turned face up and tossed to the table. To clarify this step, you first undercut half the deck to the right. In a Riffle Shuffle, let the top three cards of the left-hand portion fall last or on top. Now as you telescope the cards into each other, set-up for a Strip-Out with a Block Transfer of the three cards from left portion onto the right-hand section. As you do the strip-out cut with your right hand, carrying these cards to the bottom of the left-hand portion, the three cards that were over the first Ace will be removed and end up in center of deck. You are now set to turn over the first Ace. Naturally the Strip-Out Shuffle, being a False Shuffle, has retained the other three Aces in their original positions. Repeat the Block Transfer with Strip-Out Shuffle, this time losing four cards to bring an Ace to top; however, between each shuffle show top and bottom cards or the deck to prove no Aces are there. Continue the process until all four Aces have been disclosed. While the “Vanishing Aces” effect has used the Strip-out Shuffle with Block Transfer, you can substitute any of the other types such as the Patented False Shuffle, Zarrow Shuffle, Simplex Strip-Out and by applying the Block Transfer to the one you choose.
THE NAMED FOUR Effect: The operator shuffles and cuts deck to locate any four of a kind requested. 1. This uses the Edge Readers and is a very fast and efficient way of apparently shuffling and cutting to any four of a kind called for. 2. Assume that the four Sevens are called for. Begin by using the Blocking Off idea to get the first Seven spot. Use the method explained in Section One for Culling to The Top. 3. Once you have the first called for value on top this card's edge mark is used to get to the next card of the same value and it is also shuffled to the top. (See Second Section - The Marlo Edge Reader for details of using
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top cards edge mark to aid in locating succeeding cards of the same value). 4. With two cards~ of the same value, on top do any type of False Cut to retain the top cards after which flip over one of the cards. Apparently you have cut to the first called for value. 5. You still have one card on top and this cards edge mark is now used to locate and bring to the top the next card in the shuffle. Once more you have two cards of same value, on top. 6. Repeat the False Cut and as an example suppose you begin by undercutting, with right hand, half the deck and bring it on top but jogged to the right as in Fig. 1. 7. Immediately right fingers strip out the bottom half of the upper jogged portion. This action is seen in the Fig. 2. 8. The action started in Fig. 2, continues by right hand placing the cut out section on top and in line with the bottom halt as in Fig. 3. 9. In the Fig. 3 you will note a space created on the left end of deck due to the cutting sequence. The left thumb now presses in on this space in order to maintain a break as right hand cuts out the jogged portion of cards, as in Fig. 4, to place it on top. 10. When the cutting action has been completed, from Fig. 4 the left thumb will be holding a break between two halves as in Fig. 5. 11. At this stage the right and left fingers square tip the ends of the deck as follows: The right and left thumbs bevel the deck forward to cut down on the break line that may perhaps be visible from the front side. At the same time the right 2nd finger and right thumb converge at the inner right corner as this end of the deck is apparently squared. The right 1st finger of course rides on top of deck and along the right end during this squaring of the end action. Immediately after the squaring action the right hand undercuts to the break and places these cards to the top. The desired cards are back on top. 12. With the cards back on top again turn up only one of them. The card still remaining on top is now used to locate the next wanted card as already explained. Once more, with both cards on top, do a False Cut of any 16
type or the suggested sequence Steps 6 to 11 inclusive Figs 1 to 5. Remember there is no hesitation in the Double Cut sequence Figs. 1 to 5; however, there is a slight hesitation; almost automatic due to the square-up action of the ends of deck; just before the final cut which is played up as the cut that locates the desired card or cards. 13. Once more turn over only one of the cards. Thus you now have three of the desired cards on the table. For the final card you should try to disclose it in as different a manner as possible. The following method by Carmen D'Amico, will fill the bill. 14. First get the top card to the bottom in either a Riffle Shuffle or cut. Cut the top half to the right. The selection, or desired card in this case, is on bottom of the left portion. 15. Begin by riffling oft about eight cards or more from bottom of right hand section. Next left thumb releases the desired card. Follow by right thumb releasing another eight cards or so then go into a regular riffle shuffle for the remainder of cards. These actions are all made quickly as possible with as little hesitation as can be managed. The result of the above shuffle is shown in the Fig. 6 where the desired card is between two blocks of cards. 16. Telescope the cards into each other for only about a third of. Their length. Now left fingers and thumb hold only those cards above the single card. Right fingers firmly grasp all of its cards. This will result in the single card being more or less pinched by the right hand section. 17. Right hand now moves forward as it strips out all its cards plus the Single card between two blocks of cards single desired which remains projecting 18. Right hand flips over its complete packet to reveal the projecting card as the final desired card. While the effect of culling any called for cards can be done with the regular pack one will find that using the Edge Reader for this will result in a more convincing performance rather than just a demonstration.
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If you do use the regular deck then I suggest that in culling the final card you cull it to the bottom. This way this card will be all set for the final disclosure as per Figs. 6 and 7.
TRIUMPH-TRIUMPH-TRIUMPH-TRIUMPH Effect - Several face up and face down packets are shuffled into each other and these in turn are shuffled and cut. On assembling the pack four Aces which are face other and these in turn are 'shuffled and cutlets all cards are found one way except for the up and widely distributed throughout the deck.
1. You can make this an outstanding effect if you let the spectator first thoroughly shuffle the cards. On getting it back you can use a Cull “To The Top” to first locate the four Aces to top. If this is too much then get the four Aces to top using perhaps any type of Spread Cull as you apparently show the cards well mixed, 2. With the four Aces secretly on top do any type of Riffle Shuffle that will Block Transfer two of the Aces. Do a Double Cut with the Strip Out to get you into a situation where you have two Aces on top and two Aces below a break at the center of deck as shown in Fig. 1. A Zarrow Shuffle, with a two card Transfer makes this situation practically automatic. The Patented False Shuffle, with a two card Transfer, plus a single cut will give you the same results. The Double Cut is suggested for added deception. 3. Cut off half of packet A, the cards above the break, and move these cards face down in front of yourself, to your left. Cut off remainder of packet A, up to the break, and turn them face up and alongside the face down packet. Undercut half of the packet B, with right hand, and turn them face up, to your right, alongside the remainder of packet B held by left hand. The situation, after the above cutting actions, is as seen in Fig. 2. 4. Riffle Shuffle the packets B-B into each other doing a Zarrow Shuffle letting the two Aces remain on top. Repeat this with packets A-A letting two Aces again remain on top. Result is now two halves that are set-up for the Marlo Triumph where you shuffle the face down cards into the face down cards and the face up cards into the face up cards, being sure that all four Aces fall last or on top. After this shuffle all four Aces are on top half of deck face up under the Aces and remaining half of cards are face down.
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5. Cut where the packets meet back to back and turn the bottom portion face up. Here of course you just riffle shuffle keeping Aces on top. Square up. 6. With right hand undercut a small packet” about a dozen cards” and do any type of Strip-Out Shuffle with a one card Transfer. Thus you will have a face down Ace on top of a small packet of face up cards. When you strip-Out this packet to the table, give it a cut but leave the packet end jogged. . 7. Repeat the above Step 6 with three remaining Aces. This will leave you with four packets which have been cut but remain end-jogged as shown in Fig. 3. 8. The apparent face up face down condition of the cards is thus emphasized by the situation as in Fig. 3. Leaving each packet end jogged gather the packs one onto the other thus assembling the deck. 9. Push all cards flush thus squaring the pack. Turn the deck over to ribbon spread the cards face down. All cards will be face down except the four Aces which will be face up and quite evenly distributed through out the pack.
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TECHNIQUES
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MARLO FLEXIBLE CULL AND STOCK The following methods of culling and stocking, via the Riffle Shuffle, are based on the principle of the Center Stack Shuffle as in The Patented False Shuffle. It is one of the most flexible of all methods, the least confusing, simple in procedure and practically insures culling any desired cards, such as four Aces, during the shuffles. Once the procedure is grasped, you will find it to be basically simple and never forgotten. TO THE TOP
Let us assume you wish to cull four of a kind, such as the four Aces, to the top of the deck.
1 With right hand undercut about 15 to 20 cards from bottom of deck, to the right. As you riffle shuffle, using either the open or closed shuffle method, look for an Ace in the left hand portion. When you glimpse the Ace it is important that it is retained. At this stage the situation may be as in Photo 1 with an Ace held back at face of left portion and perhaps a few cards still retained on right hand portion. At this stage, release all the cards, from right-hand portion. Then release all of the cards from left-hand portion. (Photo 2) 21
There is a block of cards just under the Ace, marking it off. This blocking off can be done only on a single card.
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3 Telescope the halves into each other and set-up as for a Strip Out by angling the cards. (Photo 3) Press down onto the inner left (projecting) corner of the angled cards with your left thumb. Then square the deck to obtain a left-thumb break just below the marked-off Ace. (Photo 4) 22
At this point you go through a Basic Procedure, which consists in right hand undercutting a portion of cards from bottom to top so that only about 15 to 20 cards remain below the break. This Basic Procedure will always ensure a major portion of the cards being above the break. This is important to the success of the cull. 8. The situation is still more or less as in the Fig. 4 with the Ace above the break. You now must release this Ace so it becomes the top card of the lower portion. Further on will be given some techniques for this release but for the present use any method. 9. Undercut with right hand, the cards below the break to the right. The Fig. 5 now shows the Ace on top of the right hand section. Note that this is always the smaller portion. 10. Once more start the Riffle Shuffle and stop when you once more glimpse an Ace. The situation is now as in Fig. 6 or actually similar to Fig. 1 . 11. Release all the cards from right hand section then onto this release all the cards from left hand section. The situation is now as in Fig. 7 or similar to Fig. 2. 12. Telescope the ha1ves into each other setting up as for a Strip Out as already shown in the Fig. 3. Obtain a break, with left thumb, as in Fig. 4 as you square up. 13. At this stage you have one Ace below the break and one Ace above the break. Go through the Basic Procedure of undercutting some cards from bottom to top leaving about 15 to 20 cards below the break. 14. Next release the Ace, above the break, so it joins the Ace below the break and split for another riffle shuffle. Situation is now as in Fig. 5 except there are now two Aces on top of right hand portion. 15. By now you should be getting the idea of the simple procedure which in principle consists in loading a glimpsed Ace onto the top of the other Aces then setting up for a Strip Out and obtaining the break. Next the “Basic Procedure” of undercutting followed by the release of the next Ace onto those already under control. 23
16. The whole process consists in simply repeating the same basic actions for each Ace. Even if one of the glimpsed Aces should be only a few cards from the top the “Basic Procedure” will take care of that at all times and you will be able to get into the situation as in Fig. 7 except of course you will have three Aces on top of right hand section. 17. After you have say two or three Aces under control, all you must be careful of 1s not to let the right hand portion of cards become less than what you are controlling. In this case not less than 3 cards or the three Aces you are controlling while trying to locate the 4th Ace. 18. To cull the 4th Ace merely repeat all the actions as depicted by the Figs. 1 to 5 inclusive. Release the last Ace then merely undercut to the break and shuffle so that all four Aces fall last or on top. Your cull to the top is complete.
MINOR PROBLEMS 1. In trying to glimpse an Ace, especially in the case of the 4th Ace, you may riffle off all but the 3 Aces in right hand section but will have some cards left over in left hand portion. In this case the left 3ection only is riffled off by left thumb in the chance that you may still get that 4th Ace. When it is glimpsed you merely drop the 3 Aces from right hand portion under the glimpsed Ace thus resulting in the desired situation. 2. You may go through the above “1” situation but not get that Ace. In this case merely finish by letting the Aces, you do have under control, fall on top and square up fairly. This time you cut off, from top of deck, to the right thus getting you back into the required situation. Make this top cut a small portion thus giving you more of a percentage of getting the Ace in the larger half. At any rate you will eventually get all four Aces or any other four of a kind that someone may call for. THE RELEASE
The releasing of an Ace from the upper section onto the lower section should be done as quickly as possible and the acquirement of a technique you are sure will release only one card, as needed, is an important factor. Here are
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several techniques which one can try and choose that which he feels is best for him. FIRST RELEASE 1. This consists in immediately doing the release, with right thumb, just after the “Basic Procedure” or undercut with right hand. 2. Undercut the portion of cards to top and as right hand is on right end of deck the right thumb quickly releases the Ace onto lower section. Just as quickly right hand grasps the cards, below the break, to split deck for another shuffle. SECOND RELEASE
1. In this the right thumb releases the Ace immediately after squaring up and obtaining the break. In other words, it is released before the “Basic Procedure” or undercut. THIRD RELEASE
1. Here the left thumb releases the Ace 8S right hand splits for another shuffle. 2. Briefly the “Basic Procedure” of undercutting is made. Now as right hand starts to remove those cards below the break, the left thumb quickly releases the Ace from upper section onto the lower section. FOURTH RELEASE
1. Here the left hand raises its portion while ball of right thumb sort of hooks or pulls down the Ace. The action is seen in the Fig. 8. 2. First the “Basic Procedure” of undercutting is made immediately followed by the action seen in Fig. 8. 3. As the cards are split for the shuffle, the right thumb holds onto the Ace and carries it off to the right with rest of the packet. The above four releases will be found to fill the need; however, it is still up to the individual as to which will be his choice. 25
TO THE BOTTOM
Here the Flexible Cull is used to cull the desired cards to the bottom of the deck. Because the “release” will not be needed, one will find this even smoother in action than the Cull to the Top. 1. Begin by undercutting with right hand about 15 to 20 cards in readiness for the riffle shuffle. 2. Riffle shuffle at same time holding back, in left hand portion, the Ace when you glimpse it. The situation at this point is similar to that seen in Fig. I of the “Cull to Top”. 3. Release all the remaining cards from right hand section followed by releasing all the cards from left hand portion. The Fig. 2 is a similar situation. 4. Telescope the halves into each other and set-up for a Strip Out as per Fig. 3. 5. Pull down at point X, of Fig. 3, with left thumb and obtain your break below the Ace. The Fig. 4 shows the situation. 6. Here the “Basic Procedure” consists in removing a “center section” of cards from below the break as seen in Fig. 9 below. 7. Naturally the “Center Section” is placed to top of deck and the original break, below the Ace, i8 still held. Immediately undercut, the cards below the break, to the right. This results in Fig. 10 with a smaller packet on the right - a larger packet on the left with an Ace on bottom of this portion. 8. As you start the riffle shuffle this time release the Ace first so it will remain on bottom. Continue the shuffle as you once more glimpse an Ace. 9. At this stage you will again have a situation similar to Fig. 1 except one Ace will already be on bottom of deck and you are about to block off the 2nd Ace. 10. Continue the action as already depicted by Fig. 2, 3 and 4. You 26
now have an Ace at bottom and one at above the break as in Fig. 11. 11. Here the Basic Procedure of cutting out the “Center Section” is made, as in the Fig. 9, which will still leave an Ace at bottom and one above the break. 12. Next undercut, w1th right hand those cards below the break in readiness for the riffle shuttle, at this stage you have an Ace on the bottom of each section. The “Rule” is to always release the one Ace from the left-hand portion first and then follow with a few cards from the right-hand portion. This will ensure no loss of Aces, especially when you arrive at a situation where you will have two or three Aces on the bottom of the right-hand portion. 13. At any rate, two Aces will now be at bottom as you continue to glimpse and block oft the 3rd Ace. Again a similar situation 1s arrived at as depicted by the Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4 but with two Aces on the bottom of deck and a 3rd Ace above the break. 14. Once more do the “Center Cut” as in Fig. 9 - then split deck, undercutting portion below break to the right, in readiness for a riffle shuffle. Here you will have two Aces on the bottom of right hand portion and one Ace on bottom of left hand portion. 15. From here one must realize that it 1s merely repeating the same actions as before to get the 4th Ace or any more additional cards. Once the process is understood, it is easily remembered and not confusing. 16. A point as regards “Basic Procedure” - This of course can in many instances be omitted especially it the operator feels he has enough cards to work with. Yet it is always there to be use whenever there aren't enough cards for a fairly good split of the deck. To get things set properly in your mind, remember that the “Basic Procedure” for culling to the top is undercutting while the “Basic Procedure” for culling to the bottom is “Center Cutting”. While the culls have been using the Aces as example, of course any four of a kind can be thus culled. Matter of fact, a whole sequence of cards, Ace to Ten, can be thus culled. This is a very simple process as regards Culling the cards. Care must be taken on controlling the cards already cul1ed, 27
especially as the culled cards increase in number. This “Sequence Cull” can be started culling from the Ace on up to Ten, or the Ten down to the Ace. You will be surprised how easy it really is to first cull one Ace - then one Deuce - one Trey and so on until the whole sequence is culled to either top or bottom in order from Ace to Ten or from Ten to Ace. Of course using the Edge Readers makes this much easier, and more convincing, however, it is good to know you can duplicate this with any deck.
THE FULL HOUSE CULL While a full house consists of five desired cards, it is even faster and surer than culling any four of a kind. The reason is that in culling four of a kind you are looking for a specific four cards. In the Full House Cull you have a choice of eight cards but you need only five of them. The process is as follows: FULL HOUSE TO TOP
1. In a fair riffle shuffle glimpse the top two cards. Assume they are a Four and a Jack. 2. With right hand out off the top 15 to 20 cards. Riffle Shuffle and look for either a Four or a Jack. 3. When it is glimpsed block it oft in the manner already prescribed. From here it is simply the “Cull to the Top” actions until you have your Full House which could come out Fours over Jacks or Jacks over Fours. You may even get four Jacks or four Fours. In this case take advantage of this. FULL HOUSE TO BOTTOM
1. In a fair shuffle glimpse the bottom two cards. Assume they are a Five and Nine. 2. With right hand undercut bottom 15 to 20 cards to the right. Riffle Shuft1e, releasing the Five and Nine first, as you look for either a Five or Nine.
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3. When the desired card 1s glimpsed Block it off as already described and then continue with those actions required for the “Cull to Bottom.” Here again the combination of cards will be either Fives over Nines or Nines over Fives or four of either kind, depending on the breaks you get. At times when using the Cull to Top you may wish to Transfer these to the bottom in another riffle shuffle. For this refer to The Patented False Shuffle under “Transfers.” Pages 48 to 52 cover both the transfer of top cards to bottom as well as bottom cards to top. BREAKS 1. Just a word on taking advantage of Breaks especially when you do not have to Cull any specific cards. As you riffle shuffle you may be able to spot a pair together. In this case you quickly block them off and Cull these to either top or bottom as you go into another shuffle to now get the 3rd and 4th to match your first pair. 2. Even if the pair is separated by one card take advantage of this for the Full House Cull. For example, you glimpse a Four-Deuce-Four. Cull these to either top or bottom and now look for either a Four or Deuce. The first break will speed up the Cull as you will realize on working with these Culls. BY PASS PICK-UP AND RE-SHUFFLE 1. At times you will have glimpsed a desired card but before you can stop it has riffled off your left thumb. In this case a simple solution consists in merely dipping the left hand down slightly so that left thumb can “Pick up” a batch and thus “Re-Riffle”. This time you will stop at the card because you sense its position ahead of time. 2. On many occasions only the one desired card may fall off left thumb. In this case the left thumb merely dips down to. “Pick up” only one care which is immediately Blocked Off by releasing all the cards from right hand in preparation for the eventual Cull to either Top or Bottom. While the description and illustrations for the Cull have shown several cards used in “Blocking” off a desired card, in practice you will find that you can use only one card to Block off. This holds especially for the first and second cards you are trying to locate. Because of the Strip-Out condition, as per 29
Fig. 3 you can readily see that one card will just as effectively serve the purpose of marking off the card to be Culled. If you have a thorough understanding of both the Top and Bottom Culls you will have little trouble in doing the following “Cull and Stack” which is very efficient and most practical for the Culling and Staking of Three of a Kind. CULL AND STACK 1. So you can understand the underlying action of the Cull and Stack, which in principle is like the Center Stack in “The Patented False Shuffle”, begin by cutting the deck into two equal packets. 2. Riffle Shuffle in the normal manner and stop, the left-hand action: when you glimpse a desired card. Assume you have an Ace. The situation when the shuffle 1n both halves is stopped is as in Fig. 12, or at least resembles Fig. 12. 3. You are holding an Ace, at Face of the held portion, on the left and an indeterminate number of cards on the right. Let's assume you wish to stack the Ace to the 5th position from the top. 4. With right thumb quickly release all but four cards. The Fig. 13 shows the new situation. 5. Next release only the Ace from under the left thumb. Follow by letting the four cards, from right thumb, to fall onto the Ace. Conclude by releasing all the remaining cards from left thumb. 6. If step 5 above has been performed correctly you have an arrangement similar to the Fig. 14. 7. Telescope the cards into each other setting up as for a Strip-Out as in the Fig. 3. In squaring up you of course get a break, above the angled cards, with the left thumb. Now you have the condition show in Fig. 15. with the Ace in 5th position below the break. 8. Cut the top portion of cards above the break to the right. Thus, the packet on the left will have an Ace 5th from the top.
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9. You are now in position to Cull and Stack the next or and Ace. Proceed as before again looking for an Ace 1n the left hand portion. When you find it hold it back but release all cards except four from right thumb. Situation is similar to Fig. 16 where you' will note that the 1st stacked Ace will remain on top. 10. Left thumb releases only the Ace and right thumb releases its four cards so they fall onto this 2nd Ace. Telescope the cards into each other and set-up as for a Strip-Out (See Fig. 3). Eventually get your break, with left thumb, as you square up the pack. The results are pictured in Fig. 17. 11. With right hand cut top portion, above the break, to the right. The condition at this stage is 1st Ace 5th from top in right hand portion and 2nd Ace 5th from top in left hand section. 12. During this next shuffle you do not try to hold back say 5 cards. All you do is riffle shuffle and stop when you arrive at the 2nd Ace in the left hand section. In other words you make use of it as a key card and thus you know that this batch has to consist of the correct amount of 5 cards. Naturally you have a situation as in the Fig. 18 where you will note that you have purposely held back more than five cards in right hand portion. 13. With the cards as in Fig. 18 all you do is release all the cards from under the right thumb followed by letting the cards from left thumb fall on top of deck. You now have two Aces stacked at every 5th card from the top. 14. You will note that the above shuffle, to get the two stacked Aces at top portion deck is always a fair shuffle with no attempt to locate a 3rd Ace at this time. The object of this shuffle is merely to get the two culled and stacked Aces together at top portion of deck. 15. This time undercut a small portion 01' cards to the right. This small portion will naturally leave a greater amount of cards in left section thus giving you a better chance for the 3rd Ace. 16. Riffle Shuffle as you look for the 3rd Ace. Also be sure that the right hand portion is released a little slower. At any rate it is important that you retain four cards with right thumb even if left thumb alone has to continue riffling the cards in the left section.
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This primary rule holds true in every case where the portion of cards in right hand section are about to be depleted yet you have not come to an Ace or desired card. Observing the above rule enables you to continue looking for a desired card while at same time retaining the required number of cards with the right thumb. The pri1mary rule is applicable at any point of the Cull and Stack especially when the right hand section is smaller than the left port1on. 17. You are now ready to Cull and Stack the 3rd Ace. As you riffle shuffle observe the primary rule above. This will result in you having glimpsed the 3rd Ace in left hand portion and ho1d1ng back four cards, with right thumb, in the right hand section. You will also note that in no way have you interfered with the cards already stacked as shown in Fig. 19. 18. With left thumb release only the Ace followed by releasing the 4 cards, from right thumb, to fall onto the 3rd Ace. Telescope the cards into each other and set-up for a Strip-Out as in Fig. 3. In squaring up obtain a break above the angled cards, with left thumb. The Fig. 20 shows the situation. 19. With right hand cut off the top portion of cards, up to the break to the right. At this stage you have two stacked Aces in the right hand section and one Ace 3tacked in left hand packet. . 20. This time, as you riffle shuffle you must again use the Key Ace System to glimpse the Ace on the left in order to hold back the required total of cards. Also hold back more than ten cards in right hand section in order not to riffle in or lose those Aces already stacked. 21. Right thumb of course lets its larger block of cards fall under those five cards held back by left thumb. Thus the final shuffle is also fair and gets all 3 Aces at every 5th card from the top. Your Cull and Stack is complete. 22. At times the procedure used in Step 21 above may not be conducive to the situation. In this case only be sure that the 3rd Ace stock goes to the top. Now go into a Strip-Out Cut to get the Stacked Cards to the top. The simplest process is to merely use the Zarrow Shuffle under cover of the 5 cards which of course were held back to fall on top.
OVERCOMING PROBLEMS
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The following are suggestions for overcoming minor problems that may arise during the Culling and Stacking of each succeeding card. While Aces are continually used as example cards of course any cards can be Culled and Stacked. . THE FIRST CARD (OR ACE) 1. You have Cull Stacked the 1st Ace and are holding the break after squaring up. You find you have only a very few cards at bottom thus making the next shuffle awkward if not impossible. The remedy is merely to cut the bottom portion, below the break, to the top. Thus your 1st Ace is stacked on top of deck. 2. You can now undercut to the left for the next shuttle making sure you undercut about 15 to 20 cards. 3. You are again in position of having obtained your break above the stacked Ace; however, you find you have only a few cards above the break. The remedy is to merely Double Cut the small top portion to the bottom. You are once more in position for the undercut of a small packet, to the right, for your next shuffle. THE SECOND CARD (OR ACE) 1. You have Blocked Off your 2nd Ace but find that this time the cards above the break are only a few. The following out is made to more or less equalize the packets as you split for the next shuttle. 2. The small packet, above the break is turned over, to the right, about a quarter at an inch or more. The right fingers and thumb now grasp a portion at the bottom cards and also move it to the right and in line with top packet, as seen in Fig. 21. 3. Split the packet taking the Jogged portions to the right. You are now in position for the fair shuffle where you get both sets to the top. 4. You have Blocked Off your second set but find that this time you have only a few cards below the break. The solution is to first under cut the small portion, below the break, to the top in a Jogged condition as in Fig. 22.
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5. With right thumb and fingers pull out a portion of the bottom cards which will result in a situation similar to Fig. 23. 6. Split the pack again carrying the Jogged portions to the right. You are once more in position for the fair shuffle to get the two sets to top.
THE THIRD CARD (OR ACE) 1. You have Blocked off your 3rd set and find that you have only a few cards near bottom above the break. start by undercutting, with right hand, the small portion to top but in a Jogged condition to the left as in Fig. 24. 2. With left fingers and thumb hold a portion of the bottom cards as right hand moves out the center section as in Fig. 25. The top Jogged portion will almost automatical1y move in line with this bottom portion as seen in Fig. 25. 3. Split deck for a shuffle as you go into the proper procedure for getting the 3 sets to the top. 4. This time you just may end up with a break below a few top cards the extreme case being just under the two sets. The solution is exactly the same as that shown in Fig. 21 where the few top cards and bottom cards are first jogged to the right. From here you split the deck for the final shuffle to get all 3 sets to the top. . As you become familiar with the Cull stock you will find many occasions where the situation remains ideal so that you merely have to split at the break for the next shuffle. At any rate you should be thoroughly familiar with the remedies as described. While the Cull Stack was described for only a 5 hand game, it is possible to Cull Stock to any number of hands. As an example of the required process, a description of a Cull Stock for say 9 hands will be given. Its mechanics of course can be applied to those stacks involving any number from 7 to 10 hands. The 6 hands is of course simply a matter of holding back 5 cards that are loaded onto an Ace and as 5 cards can easily be sight counted this is no problem; however, sight counting six or more cards could 34
be a problem for some. THE LARGE STACK As stated above, this will deal with a 9 card “Cull Stack”. Aces will be example. 1. Cut off a small portion, from top of deck, to the right. Start the usual riffle shuffle being sure that you end up with four cards being held by right thumb and the glimpsed Ace held back by left thumb. Release the Ace followed by the four cards falling onto this Ace. 2. Set-up the pack as for a Strip-Out as per Fig. 3. Obtain the break above the 1st set Ace which at this point is 5th card below the break. 3. Undercut, with right hand, to the break. Thus you have the packet, with Ace 5th from the top, on the right. This time just do another riffle shuffle adding four more cards from the left hand portion onto the cards in right hand section. Thus the 1st Ace is now 9th from the top. 4. At this point stress must be laid on a “strict rule” which is - “If a desired card, in this case an Ace, is among the Extra cards to be added (to complete the large stack) then do not let them fall on top but instead lose them into the deck”. Now split for another shuffle and this time the chances are that the cards to be added will not contain a desired card. Thus you can add the cards to top thus bringing the card into required position. 5. Step 4 above may mean additional shuffles; however, it does increase your chances for eventually culling at least 3 desired cards into the required positions. 6. With the 1st Ace at 9th from top undercut, with right hand, a small portion to the right. Once more proceed in the way explained being sure you do not have to shuffle into the set already on top of deck. 7. Assuming you have successfully Blocked off a 2nd Ace at 5th position below the break, this time the right hand cuts the top portion, above the break, to the right. At this stage you will have 1st Ace, stacked 9th from top, in right hand portion and 2nd Ace at 5th from top in left hand section.
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8. In a regular shuffle let the five cards from left portion fall onto those in right hand section. At same time be sure you do not shuffle in any cards among the top 9 cards of right hand portion. 9. This time you take off the top half of deck to the right as you go into the riffle shuffle to add 4 more cards onto the 2nd Ace which is on1y 5th from top at present. This shuffle should be a Block Transfer of 4 cards so as not to disturb the two Aces in right hand section which are at 5th and 14 th positions. Any False Shuffle with Block Transfer can be used the Zarrow Shuffle being the simplest procedure as the cards are merely unweaved and made to ride under the top 4 cards held back in left hand section. (See “Patented False Shuffle” for technique of Zarrow Shuffle.) 10. In the above actions you just may again spot a desired card among the cards to be added, in the above the last four cards. In this case complete your False Shuffle but do not make a Block Transfer. Instead after say the Zarrow Shuffle you get the cards into the situation shown in the Fig. 25 where the small card packet is separated by the larger block under it. 11. All you have, to do is cut the center jogged section to top and square up. Now cut off the top portion of cards but cut below where the original top 4 cards, of Fig. 26; may be. Thus the next 4 cards will not have desired card and the stacking of the 2nd Ace is completed as you go into another Zarrow Shuffle. 12. The above step 11 will apply also when about to stack the 3 rd Ace. The Culling of this 3rd Ace is identical to that of the 2 nd Ace except during the actual glimpsing process you must not riffle any further than the top 18 cards where two Aces are already set. Start with the undercut of a small' portion to the right. Now go through Steps 6 - 9 inclusive bearing in mind you already have two Aces stacked and these must be kept under control, as stated, during the Block off of the 3rd Ace. Once the 3rd Ace is blocked off the rest of the actions are identical as for the case of two Aces Steps 7 to 9 inclusive. When adding 4 cards onto the 3rd Ace the “Strict Rule” need not apply unless you wish to perhaps try for four Aces which can be done but which is not recommended. A DOUBLE ENDED RELEASE 36
The Double Ended Release may find favor with some card shufflers and a brief description of its underlying purpose will be given. It can be applied advantageously at times even while doing the Cull and Stack, previously explained. 1. Assuming you have split the pack for the shuffle go into your process of looking for a desired card in left-hand section and left thumb holding it while right thumb has released all cards but four. 2. Follow closely - Release the Ace plus two additional cards. Now let the four cards from right thumb fall onto those cards just released from left thumb. Left thumb now releases its remaining cards. 3. Telescope the halves into each other setting up as for a Strip Out as in Fig. 3. Obtain your break. This now results in the 1st Ace being at 7th position in the cards below the break. 4. As you can see you are still using the basic mechanics of the original Cull and Stack except the Double Ended Release enables you to stack for a larger number of hands with ease. 5. The Double Ended Release can also come in handy when you may end up with less than the required four cards to be held back by right thumb for a 5 handed cull and stack. Suppose you end up inadvertently with just two cards held back by right thumb. With the Double Ended Release all you do is compensate by releasing, from under left thumb, the Ace plus two more cards. When the eventual Blocking off and break is made the Ace will be in the required position. 6. During the Double Ended Release you may include another Ace and this would lessen your success for the Cull and Stack of 3 Aces. Here is how to handle the situation to your advantage. 7. Assume you are stacking for a one handed game. You have 4 cards held back by right thumb. Left thumb has to release 3 cards including the Ace. You release the Ace but as you release the 2nd card you find that the 3rd card is another Ace. Do not release this Ace but remember that when you release the 4 cards from under right thumb you will be one card short of the 37
“
required seven. 8. At any rate set-up for the Strip-out condition and get your break (See Figs. 3 and 4) The situation now is as in Fig. 27 with 1st Ace 6th card from top in the cards below the break and a 2nd Ace above the break. 9. Next release the 2nd Ace, which is above the break, so it becomes top card of the cards below the break. Undercut bottom portion of cards, those below the break, to the right in readiness for shuffle. 10. At this time you have 1st Ace in 6th position from top in right section (or 7th if you count the top Ace) and 2nd Ace on top. In the next shuffles you merely get both cards so they are in proper position for seven hands. 11. The best procedure is to hold back 4 cards” in the left section and only the top Ace in right section. (Of course you have also taken precautions not to mix any cards into those already stacked, unless you intend using a False Shuffle such as a Strip-Out with a Block Transfer or the Zarrow). Release one card from left thumb so it goes under the top Ace thus making the 1st Ace now in 7th position. The remaining 3 cards are let fall onto the top Ace making this 2 nd Ace 4th from top. Another shuffle is now made to get three additional cards over the 2nd Ace thus making it the 7th card from top. The two Aces are now every 7th card from top. From here the third Ace should present no problem.
GETTING THE BREAKS If you understand the “Cull Stack” you should be able to take advantage of any so called “Breaks” such as coming across a pair of desired cards. An example will be given again using the Aces for the purpose in a five handed game. 1. Assume you are shuffling to Cull Stock and have the desired card. Ace under left thumb and say 4 cards held back by right thumb. 2. You release the Ace in order that the 4 cards from right thumb can be loaded onto the Ace. As you release the Ace you notice another Ace is right there, the two having been together. You take advantage of it.
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3. In squaring up the pack you of course set-up as for the Strip-Out (Fig. 3) and eventully obtain your break. The 1st Ace is already at 5th below the break and a 2nd Ace above the break. 4. Release the 2nd Ace so it becomes top card of those below the break. Undercut, with right hand, to the right in readiness for the next shuffle which consists of merely adding 4 cards onto the 2nd Ace thus making both Aces in every 5th position. From here the 3 rd Ace is of course Cull Stacked as usual unless of course you get unusually lucky and come across another pair of Aces. In this case handle it exactly as you did the first two always bearing in mind not to upset those cards already stacked. 5. If you do not have to Cull stack any definite cards then you can naturally create your own breaks by actually looking for a pair, any pair that happen to be together. This is especially good when merely trying to cull any four of kind decided apparently by you. 6. The student will realize that in the present Cull and Stack systems the method used is mostly that of “Blocking Under” the desired card or cards; however, the “Blocking Over” the desired cards can be used in combination especially in the Cull of the 1st pair as in this case there isn't any need for the release of cards to the lower section. For full details of “Blocking Over” the desired cards refer to both Riffle Shuffle Systems and The Patented False Shuffle. THE FULL HOUSE CULL STACK It seems like a paradox that Cull Stacking three of a kind is much more practical than four of a kind yet cull stacking a full house, which involves five cards, is even more apt to be successful. On running through the suggested procedure one will quickly realize this and the reason. 1. Assume you wish to stack a Full House for 5 hands. Split the pack for the shuffle. Shuffle and hold back two cards on the left section and tour cards on the right section. 2. Note the two cards on the left. Suppose they are a Six and Jack. Release the Six spot. Onto this release the 4 cards from right thumb. The Jack is let fall on top. You have a Jack on top and a Six spot already in position. In 39
another shuffle add 4 cards onto the Jack. You have the Jack and Six spot in position. Deck is squared up. 3. Undercut a small packet to the right. From here you go into the explained Cull Stock except in this case you have a greater advantage in that you can set either a Six or a Jack. Thus in the next three shuffles you should complete a Full House Stack or perhaps even four of a kind - with breaks.
FINAL SUGGESTIONS While the “Basic Procedure” explained earlier in this section, is an excellent device to use you will find that it will not be necessary each and every time. At times you will have enough cards, above the break, to insure that additional desired cards are in this portion and to which you have not as yet riffled. This means that your succeeding location, of desired cards is much quicker. To test this suggestion place 4 Aces, in separate parts, in the upper portion of deck. Now undercut a small portion to the right. Riffle and Block under the 1st Ace. In squaring up get your break. Release the 1st Ace onto the lower section. Undercut, to the break, to the right. One Ace is on top of right hand section. Once more riffle to Block Under the 2nd Ace. Again get your break in the apparent squaring up. Release 2 nd Ace onto lower portion and undercut to the right. So far you did not have to use the “Basic Procedure”; however, as you Block under the 3rd Ace and square up to get your break, you find you have only a small packet above the break. This time use the “Basic Procedure” of undercutting some cards, from below the break” to the top. At same time keep in mind that the original few cards that were above the break contain an Ace and as you split for the shuffle you know that an Ace is near the bottom of the left hand portion. At this point your procedure is definite because of this knowledge. When you 'Block Under” this 4th Ace you will find that again you can avoid the “Basic Procedure”. Merely split the pack, at the break, and in your final shuffle let all four Aces fall last or on top.
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The student realizes that the above has been an ideal condition and used only to illustrate the theory that whatever cards you have not riffled through could contain another desired card and because of this expectancy your reflexes will react more quickly in Blocking the next desired card. The actual culling of any four of a kind, takes five complete shuffles which includes getting all four to the top in the final shuffle; therefore, if you should experience any difficulty in locating that last card do not overdo the shuffling. When you can't find the 4th card three of them will of course have to go to the top and deck is squared. Cut a small portion off the top this time and try again for the fourth card. If again you do not have luck just end up showing you have culled the three of a kind. Hunting too much for that last card could detract from your previous actions when you culled three cards. A little common sense is all you need to use.
MARLO EDGE READER While the Edge Readers are not exactly a new idea, the following method of applying it to a Bee Back card will be found quite easy. The underlying system gives great flexibility and ease for Culling any desired card or cards. While Edge work can be applied to any type of card, the best results will be obtained with a Blue Back Bee card. The work is put in on the left side of the card onto the blue half diamonds that run along the side. You will find 16 such blue half diamonds. The marks themselves are started from the 2nd blue half diamond at top left corner and run down for the next consecutive 12 blue half diamonds, leaving the last 2 blue half diamonds untouched. Naturally both sides of the card are treated. The following procedure of putting in the work will also result in less chance of a mistake. Only the values, will be used as there is little need to know the suit in this type of work; however, the half blue diamonds at lower end, hear left corner, and upper and right corner can be used to denote suit if so desired. PUTTING IN THE WORK
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1. Requirements are a Blue Back Bee Deck and an emery board that is used for a manicure. This board has a rough and smooth side or called fine and coarse. Use the rough or coarse side. Arrange the deck so that all four of a kind are together. The four Aces should be the top cards and the four kings will be the bottom cards. 2. So you don't spoil the deck use the extra Jokers to get the idea of putting in the mark. Hold the card face down, in left hand, between 1st finger and thumb. At the extreme edge of the card and near the blue half diamond you wish to edge mark. 3. The right hand can hold the emery board at any point; however, the edge of the coarse side is rested against the center of the half blue diamond. Remember, the edge of the coarse side is rested against the center of the blue half diamond. 4. The board itself is held at about a forty-five degree angle. Because the edge of the coarse side is used, the flat of the emery board is also at a fortyfive degree angle. The Fig. 1 shows the position of both hands, card and board as viewed by operator. 5. Hold the board and card firmly. Pressing the board against the card, draw the board sharply downwards for about an inch. This will result in a white mark on the blue half diamond or rather in its center as depicted in Fig. 2 which is a simple clarification. 6. Run your thumb and fingers along the edge of the mark. You will feel a projection on the underside of the face of the card. You want to eliminate this. 7. Rest the card race up on a hard surface. Run the back of your thumb nail across this projection until you no longer feel this burr. If you look at the card you will see that the scratch mark is still on the back of the blue half diamond. The edge of the card is also very slightly indented or marked. 8. If you feel you understand the procedure, you are ready to mark the deck. Pick up the first Ace and mark the blue half diamond that side. Now turn the card around and tatl the card in your hand. 9. Pick up the 2nd Ace and place it under the first Ace which is already 42
marked. Now this procedure is used to insure that the mark will go into the proper place on the next card. This may not mean much at this point; however, as you progress into the higher value cards, you will realize that it makes for faster and surer p1acement of the mark on each succeeding card. ' 10. At any rate, place your thumb and first finger alongside the edge of both cards. Pull the top one back and again check if you are at the correct spot or blue half diamond. The marked card can now be put aside as left thumb and first finger keep the position on the new card. 11. Each time retain the marked card using it as a gauge for the next card. Watch your four of a kind. Each time look at the new card. When the last Ace is marked you use it to gauge off where the Deuce is to be marked. In other words, you merely move over one blue half diamond. Again, at this stage it may mean nothing but when you come to the higher values you will not have to count over to the proper blue half diamond. You merely use each preceding marked card as a gauge for the new card either marking it in the same place if it is of the same value and, one half diamond over if it is of a value one higher. Now you can also see the reason for having the deck in the order suggested - 4 Aces - 4 Deuces, etc. down to the 4 Kings. 12. Having marked the deck you, can now go through the removal of the burr, on the face of the card, by treating each card individually as suggested. Give the deck some good thorough shuffles, interspersed with Faro Shuffles, to mix them. 13. If the pack has been properly treated, you should not be able to discern any marks, if the deck is held squarely, on either side. When you bevel the pack you will see white dots along the left side of the deck, four dots to each blue line down the side of the pack. With the deck still beveled, run your finger and thumb along the sides of deck. The underside of the right s1de of deck should be fairly smooth. If it is rough, then you did not remove the burr off the face of the card properly. 14. Assuming you have correctly put in the work you are now ready for some basic handling of the deck. If anyone should pick up the deck, he will not spot the markings unless he is in the know and looks for it. The dots alongside the pack appear to be as part of the white lines design. At least the white design helps in camouflaging these marks whereas such is not the case for a white border card. 43
15. Reading of the cards can be quickly learned. The Ace-Two-Three and even Four can be quickly ascertained from the left end to the right. The King-Queen-Jack and Ten can be spotted from the right end to the left. The 7 is at center but more towards the left. The 8 is at center but more towards the right. The 5-6-8 and 9 are probably the most difficult but these will eventually be easily read merely by its position on the card. Never try to count over to the mark. With practice and usage you will be able to tell the value at a glance. At any rate, you need not even know how to read the cards for some of the effects that will be described. 16. To be able to locate an edge marked cards while the pack is tabled for a shuffle, it is necessary to slightly bevel the pack. The top of the deck moves forward as both hands bevel the deck away from you. This clearly shows the edge marks to operator but nothing is seen from the front. 17. To get a desired edge marked card to the right, thumb actually tries to break the deck at the exact spot; however, if the break is made slightly below the desired edge marked card the right thumb can easily riffle off cards up to the desired card. The white dot will show up clearly as it falls onto lower portion. The Fig. 3 shows the position of the hands and the right thumb doing the locating. Left thumb of course can also be used if so inclined. 18. The pack is split by taking top portion with right hand, to the right, then in a riffle shuffle the desired edge marked card is brought to the top. The previous steps have dealt with the marking and basic handling of the Edge Reader which may appear rather difficult; however, the following four card cull, done in only three shuffles, will quickly show you the simplicity of reading and locating even having to be able to read the pack. FOUR CARD CULL (Edge Readers) 1. First have the spectator thoroughly shuffle the deck. On getting the pack place it in front of you for the shuffle. 2. Look at the top card, of deck, along your edge. You will spot a dot at some place along this edge. Bevel the deck. Now all those dots directly below the top dot are cards of the same value. 44
3. It is a simple matter to break at or riffle to one of these dots and then split deck for a shuffle and getting both cards to the top. 4. Now the two cards on top have dots of course and they in turn are used to direct you, down the blue line of deck to the next desired card which you locate and shuffle to the top. The same process now applies to the 4th or last desired card. You can now, turn over the top four cards to show you have culled four of a kind in just three shuffles. The above four card cull is fine when it is your choice of cards; however, suppose you want to cull four cards that a spectator desires. The best procedure is to use the regular method of culling for the first card. Suppose he calls for Tens. Using the method of the Flexible Cull you would cull the first Ten to the top. Now you have your marked card on top to direct you to the remaining three Tens. If you cut the Blocked off first card to top, then it will be only a total of four shuffles after you locate the next three wanted cards. MINOR PROBLEMS In the Cull, using the Edge Reader, there are only two problems you may encounter. One is the break at a desired card is too near the top. Two - the break at a desired card is too near the bottom. The two remedies are given here. Too Near Top With a located card and the break too near the top you do not have enough cards for a good shuffle. You do not want to lose the card or cards already on top. The solution is to move the top small portion to the right in a jogged position. The right fingers grasp some of the bottom cards and also move these to the right and in line with the top portion. This is seen in Fig. 4. Pull the two jogged sections to the right thus the pack is split for the shuffle and the desired cards easily becoming the top cards.
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Too Near Bottom With the break too near the bottom, the right fingers undercut this small packet to the top but in a jogged condition to the right. The right fingers immediately grasp also some of the bottom cards to move these cards to the right and in line with the situation, is as in Fig. 4. Without hesitation the deck is split for the shuffle during which the desired cards are brought to top of deck. THE ORDER CULL (Edge Readers) While the Order Cull has already been mentioned and detailed in the section dealing with the “Flexible Cull and Stack” the use of the Edge Reader for this is even better and simpler as you will realize. 1. As the Ace is the first mark on the left, you should have no trouble in locating one of them and shuffling it to the top. 2. With an Ace on top you now use its mark to tip off for the Deuce. The Deuce is of course one line over from the Ace so you look in the next blue line to locate and bring to the top, and onto the Ace, the Deuce. 3. With the Deuce on top, you now use its mark to move over into the next blue line which contains the edge marked Treys. Locate and bring this to the top and onto the Deuce - Ace. The 3-4-Ace are now on top. 4. By now you should get the idea. All you use now is the top Three spot to move one line over and locate a Four spot. At any rate, you proceed in this manner, card by card, until you have ten cards, from Ten down to Ace, on top of deck. 5. Say, “I will use the top ten cards,” Here deal off the top ten cards face down onto the table thus reversing their order. Pick-up the packet and deal it face down, in a row, from left to right. 6. Turn over each card, starting with the Ace, face up until all ten have thus been disclosed. Call value of each card as you turn it.
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THE CULL STACK (Edge Reader) This should be no problem to those who have studied the previous systems of “Cull Stack”. In this case with edge readers, the location and stack becomes quite simple. The student is referred to “Riffle Shuffle Systems” page 52, for details of Stacking scratch marked cards and to Patented False Shuffle for the same stacking procedure used with the Strip or Cut cards on page 13 - Step 8 of “I Shuffle”. While on the subject of Stacking, the following Riffle Stacks are those apparently made in one shuffle. The student familiar with the methods and procedures used in the previous two volumes will have little trouble understanding the brief descriptions. As some of the Stacks make use of a sort of Two Card Throw as apparently one card this will be given first…
MARLO’S CARD THROW For the original Two Card Throw, see the Spade book. In the present method it enables one to apparently deal off a single card, really two or three, face down from a face-down deck or face up from a face-up deck. Assume you have the pack face down and wish to apparently deal off the top card, really two, face down onto the table. With left thumb push over two cards very slightly. Press down with left thumb onto these two cards. At same time the left second fingertip presses upwards on the two cards. Now the left thumb moves and pulls back the top card flush with second card. At the same time the left second fingertip presses inwards on these two cards, causing them to go flush with left side of deck. The left second fingertip maintains a firm pressure on right side of cards while the left side of these cards presses up against the base of left thumb. The pack is held in a Mechanics Grip and left second fingertip maintains a break or separation at inner right side of the two cards. The left second finger also presses inwards firmly enough to give the two cards a slight upward crimp along and near right side of the two cards. ( Photo )
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With the cards held as just described, the left thumb is raised slightly and moved over to left side of the deck. The left hand tilts towards the right and then moves backwards towards the left as at same time the two cards are let fall off of the deck so that their right sides hit the table first. ( Photo ) Doing the exacting mechanics is important to make the cards stay in alignment. The crimping action also aids in insuring this alignment. During the deal off, the left fingers must not brush or touch the two cards. That is why it is important for the left hand to move to the left and out of the way as the cards fall to the table. The conclusion of the actions should look like Photo , which shows the relation of the left hand and deck to the tabled card(s). While the action or throw has been broken down into several steps, the whole thing takes only seconds to get ready and deal off. 2 MULTIPLE THROW This simply consists in getting set with two or three breaks for four or six cards or rather two or three pair and later tossing them off as either two three cards but really four or six cards. The Fig. 4 shows two such 'breaks held while Fig. 5 shows three breaks being held. The breaks are maintained mainly by pressure of left second and third fingers against right side of cards while left side of cards are pressed up against base of left thumb or palm. The breaks are only at back end of deck. These cards also are slightly crimped. To get the sets of two or three, first spread the required number of cards. Now in re-squaring, do so with a pair of cards at a time getting the pairs lined up and properly separated then maintaining the breaks with left second and third fingertips. With slight forward and backward action the sets are released 2
See Notes of 1950 for another handling and also effects.
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simultaneously face down onto table. Photo fall.
shows how the three pairs will
By releasing one pair at a time, you can give the impression of dealing three single cards with one hand. Naturally, the deal can also be made by apparently dealing the cards face up one at a time. This has certain advantages such as in “Vanishing Aces.” Having mastered the Multiple Card Throws you are ready for the next item.
PSEUDO ONE-RIFFLE STACKS These are Riffle Stacks apparently made in one Riffle Shuffle. Actually they make use of Partial Stacking, plus the application of such stratagems as the Second Deal, Bottom Deal, Marlo's Two-Card Throw, Dealing Two Cards as One. Refer to Riffle Shuffle Systems or Patented False Shuffle for methods of getting sets of cards ready to be worked into the cards to be stacked. The following methods are for five- handed games. FIRST METHOD: To Fall To Dealer. 4 Aces, one Pseudo Riffle 1. Split deck for Riffle Shuffle with 2 sets of 4 cards on left packet, 4 Aces on top on right packet. 2. Riffle Stack so that order, from top down, is4 X cards, 2 Aces, 4 X cards, 2 Aces. 3. On first round, when you come to 4th player, deal this card to table sort of in front of yourself. Now push this card towards 4th p1ayer. This gives you time to get set with two card break, in readiness for the Marlo Card Throw (M.C.T.) of two cards, face down, as one into 5th or dealer's hand. 4. On 2nd round you will get 3rd Ace but only two cards will show in your hand. Deal card, Ace, lightly onto the tabled card(s). 5. Immediately go into 2nd deal to hold 4th Ace for your hand on the third round. 9. Complete the deal. You will have six cards which show on table as five.
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Turn your hand face up. Deal off the four Aces to table. The last two cards, as one, are merely tossed onto deck. No one is interested in this as the 4 Aces give the message. SECOND METHOD: To Fall to Partner. 1. Split deck for shuffle. Two sets of 4 ready on left and 4 Aces on top of right. 2. Riffle Stack so order, from top down, is 2 Aces, 4 X Cards, 1 Ace, 4 X cards. 3. Get set with 2 card break for the M.C.T., with one hand, into 1st hand. From this point you can finish the round with one hand or immediately go into a two handed deal after the initial M.C.T. into 1st hand. 4. The remainder of the deal is made fairly except the partner will have six cards but the lay-out will show only five because of the M.C.T, 5. Gather the partner's hand. Turn cards face up. Deal off the 4 Aces. Hold last two cards as one and dispose of on deck. THIRD METHOD: 4 Aces to Partner or 1st Hand. 1. Split deck for Riffle Shuffle. No sets required. In riffling one set of 4 cards is worked to between the 4 Aces. From top down set up is 2 Aces, 4 X cards, 2 Aces. 2. Do a M.C.T. into 1st hand. On 2nd round, partner gets 3rd Ace but board shows only 2 cards. Immediately go into Second Deal holding 4 th Ace for partner. Finish Deal normally to completion. Partner has six cards. Handle as already outlined. FOURTH METHOD: To Partner. 1. Deck split for Shuffle. Left hand portion has two sets of 4 – 4 Aces on top of right section. Riffle stack so that order, from top down, is Ace, 4 cards, Ace, 4 x cards and 2 Aces. 2. Deal fairly on first two rounds with partner getting 2 Aces. On 3rd round 50
deal two cards as one onto the Partner's cards. Finish the deal normally. Partner's hand has six cards. Handle as already outlined. FIFTH METHOD: To Dealer. 1. Split deck for shuffle with 2 sets of 4 cards on left and 4 Aces on top of right. Riffle Shuffle and set-up, from top down, 4 X cards, 1 Ace, 4 X cards, 3 Aces. 2. Deal 1st round fair getting 1st Ace. On 2nd round take Two as On 2 into your hand (3 Aces now). Immediately go into Second Deal keeping 4th Ace for your hand. . 3. Finish as already outlined and eventually show the 4 Aces as you toss aside the extra (?) card(s) onto deck or discard. SIXTH METHOD: To Dealer. 1. Exactly like 5th Method except the 4th Ace is on bottom of deck. This 4th Ace is taken on 4th round. Do not take any card on 5th round, but immediately turn your hand face up to show 4 Aces. SEVENTH METHOD: For 3 Aces to Dealer. 1. Split deck for shuffle with 2 sets of 4 on left and 3 Aces on right. Riffle stack, from top down, 4 X cards, 1 Ace, 4 X cards, 2 Aces. 2. On 1st round you get 1st Ace. On 2nd round deal two as one into your hand. (3 Aces) 3. Finish deal as outlined in above methods resulting in 6 cards. 4. Discard 3 cards it you have not bettered the 3 Aces and draw 3 cards. Show only 5 of the best cards. EIGHTH METHOD: 3 Aces to Partner 1. Split deck for Shuffle, one set of 4 cards on left. 3 Aces on right. Do riffle setting up, from top down, 2 Aces, 4 X cards, 1 Ace.
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2. Do M.C.T. into partner's hand on 1st round. (He gets 2 Aces here) On 2nd round, fair deal, he gets 3rd Ace. Finish deal and he has six cards. . 3. Partner discards and draws accordingly to better his 3 Aces. NINTH METHOD: 3 Aces to Dealer. 1. Split deck for shuffle. Merely add 4 X cards onto the 3 Aces in the shuffle. 2. On 1st round do M.C.T. into your hand. Immediately go into Second Deal to hold 3rd Ace for your hand. 3. Finish as already outlined in Methods 7 and 8. TENTH METHOD: By using Methods 7 -8 - 9 and placing 4th Ace on bottom. for a bottom deal, you can apparently stack 4 Aces in one shuffle. ELEVENTH METHOD: This is using Method 9 but placing 3rd Ace on bottom. Therefore, you can do the bottom deal at any point of the deal.
BLOCK CONTROL BOTTOM DEAL The use of the Block Control for center dealing has already been pointed out
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in an insert page to “Seconds-Centers-Bottoms” which was distributed with those copies that were ordered directly from the source. Here it is further applied to a Bottom Deal, which will be found quite easy as far as the taking of the bottom card is concerned. Even dry hands will find this method encouraging. It is included here because the “getting into position” is especially good after a Riffle Shuffle and while squaring up the cards in the hands. 1. First, to get the Basic Position, start by taking a block of about a halfdozen cards or more. Place these into the left hand so that the cards lower left corner hits at the point marked X in Fig. I but the left forefinger is curled around the upper end near left corner. In other words the tip of the left forefinger is not on the corner. 2. The Fig. 2 shows the block as it lies in the hand. Note again that left forefinger is curled around upper end thus the actual upper right hand corner is free. 3. Place the remainder of the deck onto the block as shown in Fig. 3. Note that the left forefinger tip will now be in front of the decks upper right corner. The bottom block is of course angled to the right. 4. The right 1st finger now fans over the top end of deck to thus cover the angled block as shown in Fig. 4. 5. The above Figs 1 to 4 describe the Basic Position you get into. Now for the so-called Deal or Take of the cards. 6. The left thumb pushes the top card straight off the deck towards the right. The right thumb now comes over the left thumb to thus form a sort of X as both thumbs are crossed. The right thumb lightly touches left thumb. The right fingers are extended normally and naturally go under the left fingers except for the right 1st finger which remains in view. The position of the hands is seen in the Fig. 5. 7. The right thumb skims over the left thumb, lightly touching it, until 1t arr1ves onto the projecting top cards upper right corner as shown in the Fig. 6. The top card 1s of course dealt off, in the usual way, to any pos1tio~ on the table as right second finger and thumb take the card by its upper right 53
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corner. 8. The same actions are made for each card. When it comes time to deal the bottom card, the identical actions are again made; however, this time the right second finger contacts the bottom card by going in rather deep and between the left 1st and 2nd finger space. As right 2nd finger goes in for the bottom card, the right thumb can bear down a little harder on top of left thumb. This double pressure, top and bottom, plus the fact that the angled blocks upper right corner is not impeded, will result in the bottom card coming out quite easily. The Fig. 1 shows the bottom deal in action. 9. To get into the Basic Position for the deal, the desired cards are in the bottom of the deck. Under-Cut the bottom portion to the right. In the riffle shuffle let the bottom cards, about a half-dozen or more, from right hand section fall first. Riffle in the normal manner letting the cards from left section fall last. The situation is now as in Fig~ 8. 10. Telescope the cards into each other for about two third their length. The elongated pack is now grasped by the sides with the right hand as in Fig. 9. 11. Place the elongated pack into the left hand in such a way that the left 1st finger goes under the projecting end. This will cause the bottom block to swing downwards into the left palm. 12. The right hand comes over the deck to push the ends flush as in the Fig. 10. 13. As right hand pushes deck flush, the left fingers, under cover of. right hand, angle the free bottom block to the right as seen in the Fig. 10, at same time the block is placed into the Basic Position. 14. The right 1st finger immediately spreads or fans over the deck to the right as shown in Fig. 11. 15. The cards will now be as already shown in the Fig. 4. From here the deal is ready to be made. A little practice with the Block Control Bottom Deal and you will find it to 54
be not only easy to take the bottom card, but also very deceptive visually. It is assumed you will remember to pull the top card back as the bottom one is taken. 16. Because of the position of the cards, the left 2nd-3rd and 4th fingers will extend normally as their tips only control the top cards being pushed past them. These left fingers are thus extended far enough as far as the bottom block is concerned; therefore, there will be no perceptible dip to the left fingers as the bottom card is pulled over them. 17. A further disarming feature is added if the deck proper is not perfectly squared leaving the pack in a sort of jagged condition during the actual deal. 18. To get into the Basic Position from a pack that is already in the hands merely use the tip of left 1st finger to pull down the bottom few cards at the upper right corner. Once the tip of left forefinger has engaged these few cards they are angled by extending or stretching the left 1st finger. The right band, which has been above deck, apparently holding it by the ends, fans over the top of deck to cover the angled cards. You are now in the same Basic Position as from the preliminary riffle shuffle.
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AFTERWORD Jon Racherbaumer
P
rior to owning, seeing, and reading Ed Marlo’s Riffle Shuffle Trilogy, seemed a legendary work in my mind—a phantom treatise rather than an actual, widely circulated, easily accessible book. I first heard about the first book when I was 25. This book was also known to be expensive, private and available only from its creator. This last condition gave the book an aura of exclusivity, suggesting that its contents were sanctified by the way it was created through diligent research and hard work. One was told this is why prospective buyers had to prove to the creator that they were seriousminded, willing to invest $125.00 ,and then pledge not to promiscuously divulge its contents. These stipulations, needless to say, intensified one’s curiosity, anticipation, and excitement. My efforts to obtain these three books in 1967 were initially rebuffed. Frances Marshall of Magic Inc. agreed to be a go-between. Nevertheless, Marlo at the time was reluctant to negotiate with anyone he did not know, preferring to check out prospective buyers in person. He wanted to ascertain if they were qualified and, more important, whether or not the buyers would honor the conditions of the contract. He also felt obliged to other buyers who invested in his pricey treatises. Many had already been victimized by pirates who made Xerox copies and tipped material to “chiselers” who ultimately disrespected the material. In short, he did not want to sell his private manuscripts to uncaring cardmen. In my case, after we later corresponded for two years, Marlo finally agreed to sell me the trilogy in 1969.
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After studying the trilogy and working through the material, my feelings were mixed. The books had a “phantom” quality partially stemming from Marlo’s meandering, stream-of-consciousness prose style. Because he did not type, he scribbled thousands of words (over 18, 000) in slightly slanted penmanship on unlined paper.
Sample page of original manuscript
He composed as he went along—focusing on details and procedures rather than carefully writing and re-writing organized, coherent books. This in a way made him a diarist, not an expositor. He may have envisioned systems but the result was not particularly systematic, and he had faith that serious students would somehow eventually assimilate everything and weave things together on their own. As dedicated caretakers, they would systemize everything. 57
Original Copy of Riffle Shuffle Finale (1967)
This being said, Marlo’s techniques, ideas, digressions, afterthoughts, and finesses are materially substantive, but to newcomers his prose seems too technical. The overall look of the original trilogy resembled academic dissertations. The paper used was not glossy or expensive and the typography had a smudgy, mimeographed appearance. At first blush, each
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