Isuzu Disel Engine Manual

Overhaul Manual

di 2.2 and se 2.2 TK 8009-3-OM (Rev. 3, 05/01)

Copyright © 2000 Thermo King Corp., Minneapolis, MN, U.S.A. Printed in U.S.A.

This manual is published for informational purposes only and the information so provided p rovided should not be considered as all-inclusive or covering all contingencies. If further information is required, Thermo King Corporation should be consulted. Sale of product shown in this manual is subject to Thermo King’s terms and conditions including, but not limited limi ted to, the Thermo King Limited Express E xpress Warranty. Warranty. Such terms and conditions are available upon request. Thermo King’s warranty will not apply to any equipment which has been “so repaired or altered outside the manufacturer’s plants as, in the manufacturer’s judgment, to effect its stability.” No warranties, express or implied, including warranties of fitness for a particular purpose or merchantabil- ity, or warranties arising from course of dealing o r usage of trade, are made regarding the information, rec- ommendations, and descriptions contained herein. Manufacturer is not responsible and will not be held liable in contract or in tort (including negligence) for any special, indirect or consequential damages, including injury or damage caused to vehicles, contents or persons, by reason of the installation of any Thermo King product or its mechanical failure.

APA06

Thermo King di 2.2 Diesel Engine This manual covers the overhaul, repair and maintenance

All Thermo King 2.2 diesel engines are four cylinder, four

procedures for Thermo King di and se 2.2 diesel engines.

stroke, water cooled engines that use a direct injection fuel

Design changes and improvements have been made to the di

system.

and se 2.2 engines over the years in a continuing effort by

The engines are configured so that all maintenance can be

Thermo King to provide the latest in diesel engine technol-

performed from one side of the eng ine.

ogy. Before beginning any service to your engine, please review the engine chart on page 108 to determine determine which version di or se 2.2 engine you have. Doing so will help assist the mechanic with determining special service procedures and interchangeability of components between the various engines. Although the di 2.2 and se 2.2 engines are different versions of the same engine, the following components are not interchangeable: Injection pump, gear case cover, gear case backing plate, oil base, transfer pump, flywheel housing,

This heavy duty engine is designed with five main bearings on the crankshaft. Its rugged construction, when combined with a routine preventive maintenance program, will provide many hours of satisfactory service. Eventually, even the best designed engines require an overhaul. This manual provides the proper procedures to restore the engine to a rebuilt condition. A properly rebuilt engine will provide thousands of further hours of satisfactory service.

intake and exhaust manifolds, oil filter and housing, crank-

The specifications section lists the sizes and tolerances

case breather, water pump, thermostat housing and timing

used in the original assembly of the engine. All tables for

gears.

oversize and wear limits for particular components are

Refer to the Parts Interchange Section located in the rear of the manual.

found in the sections dealing with these specific components.

Thermo King se 2.2 Diesel Engine

Table of Contents

di 2.2 & se 2.2 Diesel Engine Specifications. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 Torque Values for di 2.2 & se 2.2 Engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Engine Disassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Inspection and Reconditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Cylinder Block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Crankshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 Crankshaft Wear Ring (radial seal only) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Timing Gears . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Transfer Pump Cam Repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 Camshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Cylinder Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Valve Guides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Cylinder Head Valve Depth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Valves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Valve Spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Rocker Arm Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Push Rods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 Lifters. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Pistons. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Wrist Pins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 Connecting Rods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Oil Filter Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Oil Pumps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Water Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Engine Breathing System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Engine Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 Assembly Precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 Cam Bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 Crankshaft Clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Camshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Rear Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49 Rear Crankshaft Seals and Seal Plates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Front Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 Idler Gear Support. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Flywheel Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Pistons and Rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Connecting Rods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Oil Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 Cylinder Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Valve Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58 Oil Filter Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59 Bellhousing / Oil Pan Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 Manifolds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62 Injection Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63 Injection Nozzles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63

Table of Contents—continued

Lubrication System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Fuel System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Bleeding the Fuel System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Hand Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Injection Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Injection Nozzles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Transfer Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Transfer Pump Testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Installation and Timing of Injection Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Electrical . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Gear Reduction Starter (Hitachi) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Starter Disassembly and Overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Glow Plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Run In Procedure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Engine Run In . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Bleeding Air from the Coolant System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Dynamometer Run In Procedure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Valve Clearance Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Testing Engine Compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 Parts Interchange. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 se 2.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Injection Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Gear Mounting Flange Identification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Oil Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Transfer Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Flywheel Housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 Oil Filter and Oil Filter Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 Crankcase Breather . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Thermostat Housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Water Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Intake and Exhaust Manifolds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107

di 2.2 & se 2.2 Diesel Engine Specifications

The following specifications are given for a standard engine. Except where noted, the specifications for both engines are the same. For oversize tables or allowable wear limits, refer to the appropriate section in the text.

General Type Four Stroke, Four Cycle, Water Cooled Number of Cylinders 4 Cylinder Arrangement In-line Vertical, Number 1 at pulley end Bore 3.465 in. (88 mm nominal) Stroke 3.622 in. (92 mm nominal) Displacement 136.6 cu in. (2238.5 cm3) Horsepower 34.8 @ 2200 rpm Fuel Injection Timing Refer to engine chart on page 108 0.02 in. (0.5 mm) @ 14 BTDC (timed on No. 1 cylinder) 0.02 in. (0.5 mm) @ 6 BTDC (timed on No. 1 cylinder) to determine correct timing. Valve lash: Intake (cold) 0.016 in. (0.40 mm) Exhaust (cold) 0.016 in. (0.40 mm) Firing order 1-3-4-2 Compression ratio 20:1 Compression pressure More than 427 psi (2942 kPa) @ 250 rpm High speed (transport units)* 2200 rpm (Varies with unit. Check specific unit manual) Low speed (transport units)* 1300 to 1350 rpm (Varies with unit. Check specific unit manual) Oil pressure (hot) More than 43 psi (294 kPa) @ 1400 rpm More than 64 psi (441 kPa) @ 2200 rpm Nozzle injection pressure 2633 to 2704 psi (18142 to 18632 kPa) Oil base capacity 16 qts (15.2 liters) Engine serial number Stamped on cylinder block just above oil filter Engine rotation Clockwise (viewed from pulley end) Valve Spring and Guide Valve Spring: Free Length Inclination Set length Tension at set length Valve Guide Inside Diameter: Intake Exhaust Valve Stem Outside Diameter: Intake Exhaust

1.81 in. (46 mm) 0.118 in. (3.0 mm) 1.52 in. (38.6 mm) 43.4 lb (19.7 kg) 0.3150 to 0.3156 in. (8.001 to 8.017 mm) 0.3150 to 0.3156 in. (8.001 to 8.017 mm) 0.3128 to 0.3141 in. (7.946 to 7.978 mm) 0.3119 to 0.3131 in. (7.921 to 7.953 mm)

* Consult the applicable service manual for correct speed settings.

1

di 2.2 & se 2.2 Diesel Engine Specifications (Rev. 05/01)

Valve Spring and Guide (continued) Valve Stem Clearance: Intake 0.0015 to 0.0028 in. (0.039 to 0.071 mm) Exhaust 0.0025 to 0.0034 in. (0.064 to 0.086 mm) Valve Guide set depth (from valve spring seat): Intake 0.475 in. (12.07 mm) Exhaust 0.475 in. (12.07 mm) Valve Depth Intake 0.011 negative to 0.007 in. positive (0.275 to 0.175 mm) Exhaust 0.011 negative to 0.007 in. positive (0.275 to 0.175 mm) Valve Seat angle 45 degrees Valve Face angle 45 degrees Valve Seat contact width: Intake 0.054 to 0.069 in. (1.38 to 1.76 mm) Exhaust 0.048 to 0.063 in. (1.22 to 1.60 mm) Valve margin 0.051 in. (1.3 mm) Valve Train Lifter diameter Lifter clearance to block Push rod length Rocker arm bore Rocker arm shaft diameter Rocker arm to shaft clearance Camshaft Lobe height: Intake Exhaust Cam lift: Intake Exhaust Cam bearing bore Journal diameters Clearance to bearing End play (set by thrust plate) Piston, Piston Rings Piston, type: Diameter Grade A

0.5108 in. (12.97 mm) 0.0004 to 0.0016 in. (0.01 to 0.4 mm) 8.150 in. (207 mm) 0.7484 to 0.7500 in. (19.01 to 19.05 mm) 0.7476 to 0.7480 in. (18.99 to 19.00 mm) 0.0004 to 0.0024 in. (0.01 to 0.06 mm)

1.5913 in. (40.42 mm) 1.5984 in. (40.60 mm) 0.245 in. (6.22 mm) 0.252 in. (6.40 mm) 1.9682 to 1.9710 in.(49.99 to 50.06 mm) 1.9670 to 1.9675 in. (49.96 to 49.97 mm) 0.0010 to 0.0034 in. (0.025 to 0.085 mm) 0.002 to 0.004 in. (0.05 to 0.11 mm)

Cam ground-full float pin 3.4633 to 3.4640 in. (87.967 to 87.986 mm)

2


Piston, Piston Rings (continued) Grade B 3.4637 to 3.4644 in. (87.977 to 87.996 mm) Grade C 3.4641 to 3.4648 in. (87.987 to 88.006 mm) Grade D 3.4644 to 3.4652 in. (87.997 to 88.016 mm) Clearance to cylinder wall 0.0020 to 0.0025 in. (0.051 to 0.064 mm) Wrist pin bore 1.2206 to 1.2209 in. (31.002 to 31.010 mm) Projection above block 0.022 to 0.040 in. (0.572 to 1.018 mm) Piston rings Ring to groove clearance (top side): No. 1 compression 0.0017 to 0.0037 in. (0.043 to 0.094 mm) No. 2 compression 0.0017 to 0.0037 in. (0.043 to 0.094 mm) No. 3 compression 0.0017 to 0.0037 in. (0.043 to 0.094 mm) No. 4 oil control 0.0019 to 0.0037 in. (0.048 to 0.094 mm) Ring end gap: No.1 0.004 to 0.014 in. (0.10 to 0.35 mm) No. 2 0.008 to 0.014 in. (0.20 to 0.35 mm) No. 3 0.006 to 0.012 in. (0.15 to 0.30 mm) No. 4 0.004 to 0.014 in. (0.10 to 0.35 mm) Piston Wrist Pin: Length 2.795 in. (71 mm) Outside diameter 1.2205 in. (31 mm) Inside diameter 0.709 in. (18 mm) Clearance to rod bushing 0.0004 to 0.0008 in. (0.01 to 0.02 mm) Connecting Rods Large-end bore 2.205 in. (56 mm) Allowable twist per 4 in. (100 mm) Less than 0.002 in. (0.05 mm) Allowable parallelism per 4 in.(100mm)Less than 0.002 in. (0.05 mm) Side clearance to journal 0.007 to 0.011 in. (0.175 to 0.290 mm) Width 1.30 in. (33 mm) Crankshaft Main bearing I.D. Main bearing journal diameter Main bearing clearance Rod bearing I.D. Rod bearing journal diameter Rod bearing clearance Rear seal surface diameter Crankshaft end play

2.3608 in. to 2.3622 (59.96 to 60.00 mm) 2.3589 to 2.3595 in. (59.917 to 59.932 mm) 0.0013 to 0.0033 in. (0.035 to 0.083 mm) 2.0859 to 2.0849 (52.98 to 52.96 mm) 2.0832 to 2.0838 in. (52.915 to 52.930 mm) 0.0011 to 0.0027 in. (0.029 to 0.069 mm) 3.937 in. (100 mm) 0.002 to 0.008 in. (0.05 to 0.20 mm)

3


Cylinder Block Main bearing bore Lifter bore Cylinder wall finish

2.5197 in. (64 mm) 0.5110 to 0.5125 in. (12.98 to 13.018 mm) 16 micro-inch

Timing Gears (varies with engine model) Gear width: Crank gear 1.024 in. (26 mm) Idler gear, camshaft 1.535 in. (39 mm) Idler gear, injection pump 0.669 in. (17 mm) Injection pump gear 0.669 in. (17 mm) Camshaft gear 1.024 in. (26 mm) Idler gear, crankshaft: Bushing inside diameter 1.7717 to 1.7728 in. (45.000 to 45.030 mm) Support diameter 1.7695 to 1.7707 in. (44.945 to 44.975 mm) Bushing to support clearance 0.0010 to 0.0033 in. (0.025 to 0.085 mm) Timing gear backlash: Crank gear to camshaft idler gear 0.0023 to 0.0035 in. (0.058 to 0.090 mm) Camshaft idler gear to injection 0.0004 to 0.0075 in. (0.010 to 0.189 mm) pump idler gear Injection pump idler gear to 0.0012 to 0.0041 in. (0.030 to 0.105 mm) injection pump gear Camshaft idler gear to camshaft 0.0024 to 0.0035 in. (0.061 to 0.089 mm) gear Cylinder Head Height Valve seat material Valve seat insert bore (intake) Valve seat insert bore (exhaust) Valve seat outside diameter: Intake Exhaust Bore for valve guides Valve guide O.D. Lubrication System Oil pump Type Delivery volume Relief Valve set at Oil filter bypass valve set at

3.62 in. (92 mm) Martensitic heat resisting steel 1.5748 to 1.5760 in. (40 to 40.03 mm) 1.3386 to 1.3398 in. (34 to 34.03 mm) 1.5791 to 1.5799 in. (40.11 to 40.13 mm) 1.3429 to 1.3437 in. (34.11 to 34.13 mm) 0.5512 to 0.5520 in. (14.000 to 14.021 mm) 0.5522 to 0.5528 in. (14.026 to 14.040 mm)

Gear pump 4.15 gal/min. (15.7 liters) @ 1,000 pump rpm 40 to 65 psi (275 to 448 kPa) 11 to 17 psi (78 to 118 kPa)

4


Gear to body clearance Gear to cover clearance Oil type Oil change interval Oil filter full flow: Large capacity Standard capacity Dual element Fuel System Nozzle type Injection Pressure Tightening torque Injection lines, O.D. Injection lines, I.D. Injection timed at: First Generation engines Second Generation engines Third Generation engines Transfer pump lobe lift Injection pump rotation

0.0020 to 0.0032 in (0.050 to 0.082 mm) 0.0020 to 0.0045 in. (0.050 to 0.114 mm) CD or CG-4 grade 20, 30, 40, 50, 20W or 10W30 Consult applicable service manual for oil change interval Thermo King P/N 11-9100 Thermo King P/N 11-9099 Thermo King P/N 11-7382

NP-DLLA154P 2633 to 2704 psi (18142 to 18632 kPa) 27.5 ft-lb (37 N.m) 0.236 in. (6 mm) 0.055 in. (1.4 mm) 14 BTDC 0.020 in. (0.5 mm) 14 BTDC 0.020 in. (0.5 mm) 6 BTDC 0.020 in. (0.5 mm) 0.197 in. (5.0 mm) Counterclockwise (viewed from gear end)

Electrical System Glow plug type Sheathed Thread size 12 mm x 1.25 mm Rated voltage 11 volts Rated current 7.1 amperes Resistance 1.55 ohms Starter motor (Hitachi): Voltage 12 V dc Rotation (viewed from pinion end) Clockwise Clutch Over-running clutch Method of engagement Magnetically-engaged sliding pinion Pull-in current of solenoid 57 amps Hold-in current of solenoid 20 amps Brush tension 716 oz (3.2 kg) No Load: Voltage 11 volts Current Less than 140 amperes RPM More than 3,900 rpm Loaded:

5


Voltage Current Torque Horsepower RPM Locked rotor

8.76 volts 300 amperes More than 6.1 ft-lb (8.3 N.m) 1.8 hp (1.3 kw) 1500 rpm 3V at less than 880 amps with more than 18.8 ft-lb (25.5 N.m) of torque

6

Torque Values for di 2.2 & se 2.2 Engines

Torque Part No.

Dia. mm (in.)

Pitch mm (tpi)

Length mm (in.)

N.m

ft-lbs.

Bellhousing Reamer Bolt

55-5463

10

1.25

70

41

30

Bellhousing to Block Mtg Bolt

55-5476

10

1.25

55

41

30


55-5478

8

1.25

55

19

14


55-5477

10

1.25

135

41

30

Bellhousing to Oil Pan Mtg Bolt

55-5429

12

1.75

40

76

56

Camshaft Gear Mtg

55-3454

12

1.5

47

110

74

Camshaft Idler Gear Hollow Bolt

55-5499

8

1.25

23

19

14

Camshaft Idler Gear Mtg Bolt

55-5559

8

1.25

70

19

14

8

1.25

20

19

14

Camshaft Rear Bearing Cover Bolt Camshaft Thrust Plate Mtg Bolt

55-2443

8

1.25

16

19

14

Connecting Rod Bolt

55-2435

11

1.25

56

84

62

Crankcase Breather Assy Bolt

55-5467

10

1.25

25

41

30


55-5513

10

1.25

30

41

30


55-5512

10

1.25

28

41

30

Crankcase Breather Assy Nut

55-5468

8

1.25

19

14

Crankcase Breather Assy Stud

55-5466

8

1.25

28

19

14

Crankcase Bolt (front)

55-5490

16

1.5

40

218

161

Cylinder Head Mtg Bolt

55-5451

11

1.5

122

85

63

Exhaust Manifold Flange Mtg Bolt

55-0139

(5/16)

(18)

(1.00)

19

14

Exhaust Manifold Mtg Bolt

55-5507

8

1.25

30

19

14

Exhaust Manifold Mtg Studs

55-5454

8

1.25

40

19

14

Exhaust Manifold Mtg Studs

55-5454

8

1.25

60

19

14

Flywheel Housing Reamer Nut

55-5465

10

1.25

41

30

Flywheel Rear Plate to Block Bolt

555464

10

1.25

40

41

30

Flywheel Rear Plate to Block Bolt

55-5465

8

1.25

35

19

14

Flywheel Mtg Bolt

55-4513

14

1.5

35

117

86

Front Plate Mtg Bolt

55-5456

8

1.25

20

19

14

Fuel Leak Off Line

55-2467

8

1.25

18

15

11

Glow Plug (base thread)

44-6601

12

1.25

22

16

Injection line

11-589

12

1.5

30

22

Injection Nozzle Retaining Nut

55-2430

10

1.25

37

27

Injection Nozzle Retaining Stud

55-5452

10

1.25

75

37

27

Injection Pump Bleeder Screw

55-2024

6

1.0

10

5

4

Injection Pump Fuel Feed Hollow Screw

55-2034

14

1.5

29

28

21

7

Torque Values for di 2.2 & se 2.2 Engines (Rev. 05/01)

Torque Part No.

Dia. mm (in.)

Pitch mm (tpi)

Length mm (in.)

N.m

ft-lbs.

Injection Pump Idler Gear Mtg Bolt

55-5491

12

1.25

67

103

76

Injection Pump Mtg Bolt, brkt to brkt

55-5521

8

1.25

19

14

Injection Pump Mtg Bolt, brkt to block

55-5523

8

1.25

19

14

Intake Manifold Mtg Bolt

55-5506

8

1.25

25

19

14

Intake Manifold Mtg Studs

55-5453

8

1.25

32

19

14

Intake Manifold Nut

55-5468

8

1.25

1 in.

22

16

Main Bearing Bolt

55-2411

12

1.5

97

170

125

Oil Fill Tube Mtg Bolt

55-3531

6

1.0

11

8

Oil Filter Assy Mtg Bolt

55-5417

10

1.25

80

41

30

Oil Filter Assy Mtg Bolt

55-5498

10

1.25

45

41

30

Oil Pan Mtg Bolt

55-5485

8

1.25

25

19

14

Oil Pan Mtg Bolt

55-5486

8

1.25

40

19

14

Oil Pipe Clip Bolt

55-2462

8

1.25

12

19

14

Oil Pump Mtg Bolt

55-5488

8

1.25

30

19

14

Rocker Arm Baffle Access Panel Screw

55-5457

4

.7

10

2

1.5

Rocker Arm Cover Cap Nut (special)

55-5458

8

1.25

12

9

Rocker Arm Cover Mtg Bolt

55-5495

10

1.25

65

54

40

Starter Bolt

55-5515

12

1.25

65

61

45

Starter Bolt Nut

55-5516

12

1.25

61

45

Thermostat Adapter Mtg Bolt

55-5455

8

1.25

18

19

14

Timing Gear Cover Mtg Bolt

55-5473

8

1.25

60

19

14


55-5471

8

1.25

45

19

14


55-5470

8

1.25

30

19

14


55-5472

8

1.25

75

19

14

Timing Gear Cover Mtg Stud

55-5453

8

1.25

40

19

14

Transfer Pump Mtg Bolt

6

1.0

18

8

6

Transfer Pump Mtg Bolt Nut

6

1.0

8

6

19

14

19

14

Water Pump Mtg Bolt

55-5470

8

1.25

Water Pump Mtg Nut

55-5468

8

1.25

8

30

Engine Disassembly

NOTE: Before disassembling the engine, drain the engine oil and coolant, disconnect the battery cables, and remove the engine from the unit. 1.

Remove the starter.

2.

Remove the fuel injection nozzle-to-pump return lines.

3.

Remove the fuel injection lines. Cover all injection

2

1

lines and fuel lines with plastic covers or tape. The smallest amount of dirt can damage the fuel system. 4.

Remove the intake manifold assembly, but leave the mounting studs in.

5.

Remove the glow plug bus bar.

6.

Remove the glow plugs using a deep well socket.

7.

Remove the exhaust manifold (and the exhaust restric-

1. Retainer

tion on early engines that are so equipped). 8.

Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield.

9.

Remove the crankcase breather assembly

2.

Special Tool

Removing Injection Nozzles NOTE: The retainer cannot be removed without also removing the nozzle. If the nozzle is stuck in the cylinder

10. Remove the fuel injection nozzle return lines (short

head and does not come out, continued prying could

lengths of black hose).

damage the threads. If the nozzle is stuck, make a special

11. Remove the injection nozzles. Remove the retainer nut

tool from an old injection line box nut. Use the special

and special washer. Then using a pry bar, carefully pry

tool to remove the nozzle.

up on the retainer. The nozzle and the retainer should

1

come out together. Follow the instructions in the note below for handling the copper sealing washer.

2

NOTE: Unlike the C201 nozzles, the di and se 2.2 noz zles have only one sealing washer. It is a heavy, thick, tapered copper washer (tapered side down). Replace

3

the washer each time the nozzle is removed. If the copper washer does not come off easily, slowly warm it to ease removal.

4

1. Brazed Stop Nut 3. Straightened Injection Line 2. Sliding Weight

4. Box Nut

Special Tool for Stuck Nozzles

9

Engine Disassembly (Rev. 5/01)

12. Remove the rocker arm cover by removing the three cap nuts. Inspect the rubber washers under the cap nuts

1

and replace if necessary during assembly. 13. Remove the rocker arm support mounting bolts by alternately turning each bolt one turn at a time. This evenly releases the valve spring pressure on the rocker arm assembly. Remove the rocker arm assembly. 14. Remove the push rods. Keep them in order if they are to be reused. 15. Remove the hose between the thermostat housing and the water pump. Remove the thermostat housing. Remove the water pump.

1. Reinstall 3 Bolts

16. Remove the oil filter assembly.

Checking Timing Gear Lash

17. Remove the fuel transfer pump.

22. Remove the timing gear cover bolts from the injection

18. Remove the front crankshaft bolt. A breaker bar may be

pump. If necessary, remove the two block-to-bracket

needed.

bolts on the lower injection pump mounting bracket.

19. Remove the crankshaft pulley boss. The boss is a slip

Not all engines are equipped with the lower bracket.

fit, but it may require the use of a puller.

Remove the injection pump.

20. Remove the timing gear cover.

23. Remove the transfer pump cam oil feed line.

21. Place three of the timing gear cover bolts in the injec-

24. Remove the injection pump idler gear.

tion pump and tighten. Check the timing gear lash at

25. Remove the camshaft idler gear.

this point. If the lash is within specifications, there is a good possibility that the gears are reusable. If the lash

26. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in the sequence shown.

is excessive, replace the gears.

This requires removing all injection nozzles. Remove the cylinder head bolts and remove the cylinder head. Pry slots are provided in case the head should stick. NOTE: Do not set the head face down with the glow plugs installed or the glow plug tips will be damaged.

10


NOTE: Refer to engine chart on page 108 to deter-

9

1

17

10

2

16

8

mine which oil pan you have. Late style engines are manufactured with a two piece oil pan which should

15

NOT be disassembled. The separate halves CAN NOT

7

3

BE SPLIT while on the engine. DO NOT DISAS-

18

11

14

SEMBLE the oil pan - only remove as one assembly.

6 4

If the pan should accidentally be disassembled, coat

12

13

5

the sealing surfaces with silicone sealer and torque the socket head screws (8 mm or 10 mm) as shown.

Cylinder Head Bolt Removal 27. Remove the bell housing. 28. Carefully mark the flywheel so it can be reinstalled in its original position and remove the flywheel. 29. Remove the rear plate. Note that two oil pan bolts beneath the plate must be removed to free the plate. NOTE: The oil pan has small slots on the mounting face to assist in removal.

10 mm Mounting Bolts 36.0 ft-lbs. (6.9 N•m)

8 mm Mounting Bolts 24.5 ft-lbs.(4.9 N•m)

Two Piece Oil Pan 32. Remove the oil pump and the oil supply pipe. 33. Remove the connecting rod bearing caps. Remove the pistons and connecting rods up through the top of the cylinder bore after removing the ring ridge, if necessary. Mark each piston with its cylinder number. 34. Arrange the connecting rods, bearings caps and pistons in order if they are to be reused. The connecting rods and caps are numbered 1, 2, 3 and 4 by the manufacturer. Marking is not normally needed. 35. Alternately loosen the main bearing cap bolts and remove the bolts and caps. The main bearing caps are

APA122

factory marked so they need not be marked.

Rear Plate Removal

30. Remove the front plate. 31. Make sure that all oil is drained from the oil pan.

11


NOTE: The cast-in arrows on the main bearings caps

38. Remove the cam bearings.

point to the rear of the engine (flywheel end). The

NOTE: Cam bearings can be damaged by the solvents

main bearing caps are also numbered, with No. 1

used to clean the block. New cam bearings should always

being the rear (flywheel end) main cap.

be installed when an engine is overhauled. The cam bear-

4

ings supplied by Service Parts are semi-finished and will need to be line bored by a machine shop. Always check the bearings against the cam shaft before installing. 39. With a valve lapping tool, remove the lifters after removing the camshaft. NOTE: Remove the rear camshaft bearing cover before cleaning the engine block with solvents. The

1

3

2

1. Front

3. Rear Flywheel End

2. Middle

4. Embossed “C”

cap is aluminum and may be damaged by certain cleaners.

Main Bearing Position

2

36. Remove the crankshaft. Note the orientation of the thrust bearings for proper installation of the bearings during assembly. Remove the thrust bearings and the upper main bearing inserts. 37. Remove the bolts from the camshaft thrust plate and remove the camshaft.

1 1. Lifter

2.

Valve Lapping Tool

Lifter Removal

1 1.

Thrust Plate Bolts

Camshaft Thrust Plate Bolts

12

Inspection and Reconditioning

NOTE: Refer to the Specifications Chapter for specific

Cylinder Block

dimensions that are not given in this chapter.

1.

Inspect the cylinder block for cracks, damage, and distortion. Using a straight edge and a feeler gauge, check

This chapter covers the cleaning, inspection, overhaul, and

the block-to-head mating surface. If there is more than

assembly of individual engine components. The next sec-

0.003 in (0.07 mm) distortion, resurface the block. Do

tion of this manual describes the assembly of the engine.

not remove more than 0.010 in. (0.25 mm) from the

After disassembling the engine, check the components and

block surface.

discard unusable parts such as gaskets, O-rings, burned valves, and broken rings. Check the items that may need machine shop work first so this work can be completed by the time the rest of the engine is ready to assemble.

1.

Head Mating Surface

4.

Main Bearing Bore

2.

Cylinder Bore

5.

Cam Bearing Bore

3.

Pan Mating Surface

6.

Lifter Bore

Block Measurements

13

Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)

2.

Check the cylinder bores for taper, out-of-round, pocketing or any other problems that would indicate the need to bore the block. The bores should be no more than 0.002 in. (0.05 mm) out-of-round, or have more than 0.003 in. (0.07 mm) taper. If the bores are in good condition, deglaze the cylinders with a glaze breaker.

Cylinder Bore Deglazing 3.

Piston Size Identification

If boring is required, determine the proper oversize pis-

NOTE: Measure the piston 2.75 in. (70 mm) from the

ton. Pistons are available in 0.010, 0.020, 0.030 and

top at the right angle to the wrist pin.

0.040 in. (0.25, 0.50, 0.75 and 1.00 mm) oversizes. Measure each of the four pistons. Bore and hone the

The letter will be A, B, C or D. All engine manufactur-

cylinder to obtain 0.0020 to 0.0025in. (0.051 to 0.064

ers have a tolerance range for their pistons and a mark-

mm) piston- to-wall clearance. The use of a taper gauge

ing system to determine where the piston is located in

will help maintain a straight bore.

the tolerance range. The engine bore sizes are also graded, and when the engine is originally assembled,

NOTE: Pistons will vary in diameter. Each piston

the larger pistons are put into the larger bores. The tol-

must be measured and the cylinder bored accordingly.

erance range is small, usually measured in ten thou-

All di and se 2.2 pistons have a letter stamped in the top

sandths of an inch, but a quality manufacturer will go

of the piston between the valve relief areas.

through this extra work to ensure the best possible fit between piston and bore.

14


In di and se 2.2 engines, A pistons are the smallest, and

der bore. Check the top and bottom of the cylinder bore

D pistons are the largest; however, only two grades of

to be sure that there is no taper.

Service Part replacement pistons are offered; A and C. Because of this small variance in piston diameters and the close piston to wall clearances in this engine, it is vitally important to measure each piston and bore and hone accordingly. A and C pistons use the same part number and are treated as the same part. Note the letter on top of the piston (see page 14) and measure the piston to make sure of the size. If the pistons are reused, make sure they are placed in the same cylinders they were removed from. If a D pis-

Piston Fit Measurement

ton was placed in an A size bore, it would be too tight. If an A piston was placed in a D size bore, it would be 5.

too loose.

After the block is deglazed or bored, remove the water distributor tube from the block. The tube should be

Nominal Piston Sizes (standard bore)

checked or replaced during a major overhaul.

Grade A

3.4633 to 3.4640 in. (87.967 to 87.986 mm)

To remove the tube, locate the core plug at the back of

Grade C

3.4641 to 3.4648 in. (87.987 to 88.006 mm)

the block. Pry out the plug. This exposes the water tube

Piston Wear Limit

0. 002 in. (0.05 mm)

anchor pin. Drive this pin forward out of the block.

Finished Bore Size = Piston diameter + piston to cylinder wall clearance. Finish hone the cylinders to a 16 micro-inch finish. 4.

Obtain long 0.001 in. (0.025 mm) and 0.0015 in. (0.0375 mm) feeler gauges. Lay a feeler gauge against the piston vertically at a position 90 degrees from the wrist pin holes. This is the widest part of the piston. Now carefully try to install the piston along with the feeler gauge into the proper cylinder bore. The piston and proper size feeler gauge should require 1 to 3 lb. (0.45 to 1.3 kg) of force to be moved while in the cylin-

Removal of Water Tube

15


6.

Measure the camshaft bearings in the block. The stan-

9.

Check or replace all core plugs.

dard dimension is 1.9682 to 1.9710 in. (49.99 to 50.06 mm). If the bearings have more than 0.004 in. (0.10 mm) wear, nicked or damaged surfaces, or if the block is to be boiled out, remove the bearings and all core plugs. 7.

Install the main bearing caps in their proper positions. Torque the bearing caps to 125 ft-lb (170 Nm) Check the main bearing saddle alignment and main bearing bore for out of round. NOTE: The cast-in arrows on the main bearings caps point to the rear of the engine (flywheel end). The main bearing caps are also numbered, with No. 1 being the rear (flywheel end) bearing .

1 Checking Main Bearing Saddle Alignment

3

4 1. Embossed “C”

2 3. Middle

2. Rear Flywheel End 4. Front Main Bearing Position If the main bearing bores are more than 0.001 in. (0.0254 mm) out-of-round, the block must be align

Main Bearing Bore

bored. To check saddle alignment, use a straight edge and a 0.0015 in. (0.0381 mm) feeler gauge. Lay the straight edge in the bores. The feeler strip should drag under the straight edge at each main bore. 8.

Measure the lifter bores in the block. The bores should be 0.5110 to 0.5125 in. (12.981 to 13.018 mm). Very little, if any, wear is associated with these bores. Clean up small scratches or nicks with a brake cylinder hone.

16


Crankshaft

Outside Diameter of Finished Main Journals

1.

Journal Undersize in Millimeters*

Check the cranks crankshaft haft journals, journals, crank pins and oil seal surface for evidence of wear, damage or clogging of oil ports.

2.

Measure Measure the the crank crankshaf shaftt main main journ journals. als. The stand standard ard dimension is 2.3589 to 2.3595 in. (59.917 to 59.932

•

Taper aper gre great ater er than than 0.0 0.001 01 in. in. (0. (0.02 0254 54 mm) mm)

•

Wear ear grea greate terr tha than n 0.00 0.001 1 in. in. (0.0 (0.025 254 4 mm) mm)

0.75 mm mm

59.167-59.182 2.3294-2.3300

1.0 mm

58.917-58.932 2.3196-2.3202

metric undersizes of 0.25, 0.50, 0.75 and 1.0 millimeters.

journal shows any of the following following conditions: OutOut-of of-r -rou ound nd mor moree than than 0.0 0.001 01 in in (0.02 (0.0254 54 mm) mm)

Diameter in Inches

*NOTE: Service Parts main bearings are furnished in

mm). The crankshaft must be ground undersize if the

•

Diameter in Millimeters

The conversion from millimeters is not exact (1 mm = 0.03937007 in.). Therefore, the “inch” column of under sizes loses approximately 0.0102 in. per undersize rather than exactly 0.010 in. per undersize. 0.25 mm undersize is roughly equivalent to 0.010 in. undersize, 0.50 mm to

Consult the grind chart for main journals shown below.

0.020 in. undersize, 0.75 mm to 0.030 in. undersize, and 1.00 mm to 0.040 in. undersize. The most accurate method of determining the correct correct journal undersize diameter diameter is to assemble and torque a main bearing cap on the block with the proper undersize bearing in the block. Measure the bearing inside diameter. diameter. Subtracting the clearance desired from that figure results in the correct journal undersize diameter. diameter. 3.

Measure Measure the rod journals. journals. The standard standard dimension dimension is 2.0832-2.0838 in. (52.915-52.930 mm). The crank pins must be ground undersize if the rod journal shows any of the following conditions:

AGA40

Measuring Crankshaft Main Journals

•

OutOut-of of-r -rou ound nd mor moree than than 0.0 0.001 01 in in (0.02 (0.0254 54 mm) mm)

•

Taper aper gre great ater er tha than n 0.00 0.001 1 in. in. (0.02 (0.0254 54 mm) mm)

•

Wear ear gre great ater er tha than n 0.00 0.001 1 in. in. (0.0 (0.025 254 4 mm) mm)

Consult the grind chart for rod journals shown below.

Outside Diameter of Finished Rod Journals

Outside Diameter of Finished Main Journals Journal Undersize in Millimeters*


Journal Undersize in Millimeters**

Diameter in Inches

Standard

59.917-59.932 2.3589-2.3595

0.25 mm mm

59.667-59.682 2.3491-2.3497

0.50 mm mm

59.417-59.432 2.3392-2.3398

17


Diameter in Inches

Standard

52.915-52.930 2.0832-2.0838

0.25 mm mm

52.665-52.680 2.0734-2.0740

0.50 mm mm

52.415-52.430 2.0636-2.0642

0.75 mm mm

52.165-52.180 2.0537-2.0543

1.0 mm

51.915-51.930 2.0439-2.0445


**NOTE: Service Parts rod bearings are furnished in met ric undersizes of 0.25, 0.50, 0.75 and 1.0 millimeters. The

1

conversion from millimeters is not exact (1 mm = 0.03937007 in.). Therefore, the “inch” column of under sizes loses approximately 0.0102 in. per undersize rather

2

than exactly 0.010 in. per undersize. 0.25 mm undersize is roughly equivalent to 0.010 in. undersize, 0.50 mm to 0.020 in. undersize, 0.75 mm to 0.030 in. undersize, and

1. Solid Solid Desig Design n (used (used w with ith flat flat styl style e gear gear cover cover))

1.00 mm to 0.040 in. undersize. The m ost accurate method assemble and torque a rod and cap with the proper under-

2. Rubber Rubber Damp Damper er Design Design (used (used with with domed domed style style gear cover)

size bearing in the rod. Measure the bearing bearing inside diame-

Pulley Boss Types

of determining the correct correct journal undersize diameter diameter is to

ter. ter. Subtracting the clearance desired from that figure results in the correct correct journal undersize diameter. diameter.

2

1 4.

Place the crank crankshaf shaftt in the the engine engine block, block, resting resting on the old front and rear main upper inserts. This will allow the shaft to be rotated. Using a dial indicator on the middle main journal, rotate the crankshaft one full turn and note the largest reading. The crankshaft deflection equals 50% of the largest indicator reading. Crankshaft deflection should be more than 0.0015 in. (0.0381 mm).

3 1.

Dial In Indicator

Measuring Crankshaft Deflection 5.

1.

Seal Surface

2.

Cran Crank kshaft aft Timi iming Gear Gear

3.

Pulley Boss

Checking Gear Wear, Seal Surface and Pulley Boss

Inspect Inspect the pulley pulley front front seal seal surface surface for excess excessive ive wear wear..

6.

Worn or damaged pulley bosses must be replaced as no

Removing Removing the crankshaft crankshaft timing timing gear gear requires requires the use of a standard gear puller. When replacing the gear and

repair sleeve is available. The pulley boss is hand fit

the pulley boss, use silicone sealant on the crankshaft

and can be removed by tapping with a soft hammer. hammer.

before installing the gear and pulley boss. The sealant

NOTE: Two types of pulley bosses were used and they

prevents oil leakage.

ARE NOT interchangeable. When replacing the pul7.

ley boss be sure it is the same style as the original. See

Check Check the the rear rear cranks crankshaf haftt wear ring ring surf surface ace for for a

the following picture to determine which pulley boss

groove left by the lip seal. See following section for

you have.

replacement.

18


the rear. Make sure that the ring is square with the axis

.

of the crankshaft.

1

NOTE: The wear ring is un i-directional. Before driving it onto the crankshaft, ensure that the wear ring is properly positioned. positioned. 6.

Using Using tool tool No. No. 204-592 204-592 and and a hammer hammer,, drive drive the ring ring 0.31 in. (8 mm) onto the crankshaft.

1

1.

Wear Ring

Checking Rear Seal Surface 8.

The cranks crankshaft haft journals journals on these these engines engines are are surfa surfaced ced hardened with a nitriding process. If the journal diameter is worn 0.002 in. (0.05 mm) or more it will need to be reground undersize or replaced.

2

Crankshaft Wear Ring (radial seal only) 3 Removal and replacement To provide a better oil seal, the rear of the crankshaft has a chromium-plated chromium-plated wear ring. 1.

Hold the cranks crankshaft haft firmly firmly.. Place Place a chisel chisel on the O.D. O.D. shaft. Tap the chisel to expand the ring. NOTE: Use only taps. A heavy blow will break the ring and the chisel will mar the crankshaft crankshaft surface. Pull Pull the the wear wear ring ring to the rear rear to remo remove ve it. it.

3.

Clean all dirt, dirt, grease grease and and oil oil from from the the cranksh crankshaft aft ring ring area.

4.

Heat the replac replacement ement wear ring in boiling boiling water or in an oven at approximately 200 F (93.0 C).

5.

0.31 ± 0.02 in. (8 ± 0.5 mm)

2.

Cha Ch amfe mfered I.D.

3. Beve Bevele led d O.D. O.D.

Driving Wear Ring onto Crankshaft

surface of the wear ring facing the center of the crank-

2.

1.

Coat the inside inside surface surface of of the the wear wear ring ring with with a thin thin coating of Loctite or silicone sealant. Position the ring on the crankshaft with the beveled O.D. surface toward

19


Timing Gears

the gear and bushing. The bushing is not sold sepa-

Three different types of timing gears were used:

rately.

• First Design Coarse Mesh - through S/N #219283

4.

Check the injection pump idler gear bearings for noise or roughness and inspect the transfer pump cam lobe

• Second Design Hardened Coarse Mesh - beginning

for wear.

with S/N #219284 • Third Design Hardened Fine Mesh - beginning with

5.

S/N #221207

To remove the injection pump idler gear bearings, remove the front and back snap rings.

NOTE: The gears ARE NOT interchangeable and must be replaced as a set.

6.

Tap out the spindle with a soft mallet.

7.

Using a suitable tool, press out the bearings applying pressure to the outer race only.

1

8.

2

3

To remove the transfer pump cam lobe, support it as shown. Press the lobe off.

4 Removing Transfer Pump Cam 1.

Injection Pump Idler

3. Camshaft

2.

Camshaft Idler

4. Crankshaft

9.

approximately 200 F (93.0 C), and drop the lobe on the

Timing Gears 1.

gear. There is no particular orientation of the lobe.

To remove the timing gear from the camshaft, remove

10. Install the new bearings back in the gear making sure to

the center bolt and tap the gear off with a soft-faced

press on the outer race only. Install snap rings and spin-

hammer. Remove the crankshaft timing gear (if it has

dle.

not already been removed) with a standard puller. 2.

Examine the timing gears for chipped or worn teeth. During engine assembly, the timing gears will be checked for gear lash, so only a visual check is necessary now.

3.

Heat the new cam lobe in boiling water or an oven to

Measure the inside diameter of the camshaft idler gear bushing. The standard dimension is 1.7717 to 1.7728 in. (45.000 to 450.030 mm). If the bushing is badly scored or worn more that 0.003 in. (0.072 mm), replace

20


Transfer Pump Cam Repair

weld spatter. Use a wire feed welder or TIG welder to provide a clean spatter free weld. Allow the weld to cool at

The transfer pump is driven by a cam that is mounted on the B idler timing gear. This cam can come off the gear or can

room temperature. Do not immerse the gear to cool it.

be loose on the gear.

Welding done as described will not harm the gear in any way or effect the gear backlash. Reassemble the engine.

The engine will not necessarily stop running if the cam is loose or fallen off because the injection pump has an internal pump of it’s own that is used to operate the timing piston in the injection pump. That pump is capable of pulling fuel from the fuel tank, especially if the unit is mounted lower than normal, or the fuel tank level is high. The internal pump may be able to keep the unit running, but not able to provide enough fuel for restart, or in some cases it will allow restarts, but the engine has difficulty coming up to speed. Typical symptoms are; •

The engine will crank but will not start.

•

The engines runs, but is hard starting and difficult to get up to speed.

•

The engine was running, but won’t restart after being shut off.

•

The transfer pump is not pumping fuel or pumping fuel at a low rate.

•

Welding the Pump Cam to the Idler Gear

Any problem that appears to be fuel delivery problem.

Inspection and Repair Remove the transfer pump and look at the cam. If it is in position on the B idler gear use a sharp tool such as a probe to push on the cam to make sure it doesn’t move. If it moves on the idler gear, or is dropped off the gear, it must be repaired. Remove the front timing cover and remove the B idler gear. Mark the B idler gear to the inspection pump gear and to the A idler gear in case the valve springs or injection pump springs try to rotate the pump or camshaft. Weld the pump cam to the gear using three 0.50 inch beads spaced evenly around the cam. (See the following illustration.) Use tape on the cam surface and gear teeth to prevent

21


Camshaft 1.

4.

dimension is 1.9670 to 1.9675 in. (49.96 to 49.97 mm).

Check the cam shaft journals, lobes and oil pump drive

Replace the camshaft if the journals are worn more than

for wear or damage. 2.

Measure the camshaft journal diameters. The standard

0.002 in. (0.05 mm).

Measure the camshaft lobe height. The standard dimension is 1.5913 in. (40.42 mm) for intake and 1.5984 in. (40.60 mm) for exhaust. More that 0.005 in. (0.127 mm) wear indicates the camshaft should be replaced. Check the lobe faces for damage. Clean up slight imperfections with an oil stone

AGA53

Measuring Camshaft Journal Diameters

5.

Inspect the oil passageways and the oil bleed hole for obstructions.

1 AGA54

Camshaft Lobe and Gear Inspection 3.

Measure camshaft deflection with a dial indicator and a set of “V” blocks. Rotate the camshaft one full turn and note the largest reading. The camshaft deflection is 50% of this reading. Replace the camshaft if the deflection is greater than 0.003 in. (0.7 mm) deflection.

1.

Oil Bleed Hole

Rear Journal and Oil Passageway Inspection

AGA55

Measuring Camshaft Deflection

22


Cylinder Head

If the engine has acquired many hours of running time, it is a good idea to replace the guides because they are

The cylinder head for the engine is a direct injection head,

usually worn after such a period. Because the valve seat

therefore it does not have prechambers, hot plugs, heat

grinding procedure is piloted off of the guides, a new

dams, etc., making it easier to service.

straight guide will ensure an accurate valve seat.

Disassembly 1.

Remove the bus bar and glow plugs if they have not been removed already. Do not set the head face down with the glow plugs installed or the glow plug tips will be damaged.

2.

Use a valve spring compressor to remove the valves from the head.

3.

Remove the steel spring seats and retain for assembly. Boil the head out if possible.

Cleaning Valve Guides 2.

To remove the guides, use tool No. 204-355 to drive the guides out toward the lower face of the cylinder head.

1

Removing Spring Seat Washer

Valve Guides 1.

Use a valve guide carbon beater to remove carbon from the guides. Measure the inside diameter of the guides using a small hole gauge or graduated set of tapered

1. Tool No. 204-355

pilots. The standard dimension is 0.3150-0.3156 in.

Removing and Installing Valve Guides

(8.000-8.017 mm). If guides show more than 0.003 in. (0.07 mm) wear, replace the guides.

23


Cylinder Head Valve Depth 1

2

The depth at which the valves rest in the head (valve depth) is a critical dimension for most diesel engines. If the valves are set too deep as a result of valve grinding, the combustion chamber volume enlarges and the compression ratio drops. This results in hard starting. Therefore, it is very important to check valve depth before any valve or seat grinding is attempted. If this dimension is already at the limit, the valve seat inserts or valves, or possible both, may have to be replaced. 1.

To check the valve seat depth, install the valves in their respective seats and check the depth.

2.

1. 0.475 in. (12.07 mm) Intake

in. (0.175 mm) positive. Valves should not be more that

2. 0.475 in. (12.07 mm) Exhaust

0.022 in. (0.57 mm) negative for both intake and exhaust. Grind the valves at a 45° angle and check the

Valve Guide Set Depth 3.

Normal depth is 0.011 in. (0.275 mm) negative to 0.007

depth again to determine if the depth is still within tol-

Install the new valve guides using the appropriate tool.

erance.

Using a depth micrometer or caliper, set the guides to 0.475 in. (12.07 mm) as shown. 4.

After installation, the guides may need reaming with a 0.3155 in. (8.013 mm) hand reamer. Ream both the exhaust and intake guides.

AGA62

Checking Valve Depth If the seat width exceeds 0.070 in. (1.75 mm) for intake and 0.63 in. (1.60 mm) for exhaust, 30 degree and 60 degree stones may be used to narrow and raise or lower the seat.

Reaming Intake and Exhaust Guides

24


30°

1.

45° 60°

0.050- 0.070 in. (1.22-1.75 mm) Valve Seat Angle

APA124

Using Valve Seat Grinding Equipment

Grinding 1.

If the valve depth does not exceed the specified limit, grind the seats to a 45 degree angle. A hard stone will be required. Since the valve guide bore is 0.315 in. (8.001 mm) standard, regular valve seat grinding equipment can be used. N o metric pilots are required. As the seat is ground, periodically check the seating of

APA125

the valve with Prussian Blue or a similar dye to ensure

Installing Grinding Pilot

that the seat is contacting as close to the middle of the valve face as possible.

3.

4.

If the limit still has not been exceeded, grind the seats

2.

After all the valve seats have been ground, the valves

as well.

may be lapped. Put a small amount of a medium grit

Measure the depth once again. If it is now beyond the

compound on each valve face. Using a valve lapping

specified limit, the seat or valve, or possibly both, will

toll, briefly spin the valve against the seat. Then lift the

have to be replaced.

valve and rotate it about a quarter of a turn. Drop the valve back into the seat and continue lapping. Repeat this procedure until the compound is used up. Remove all traces of lapping compound.

25


Replacement

Valves

1.

1.

2.

Use a commercial-type valve seat replacement tool to

Inspect and measure the valve stems. Standard diameter

remove the seat from the head. If such a tool is not

is 0.3128-0.3141 in. (7.946-7.978 mm) for intake and

available, use a welding torch and heat the valve insert

0.3119-0.3131 in. (7.921-7.953 mm) for exhaust.

red hot (1330 to 1400 F [721 to 760 C]) at two spots

Replace if worn more than 0.002 in. (0.05 mm). Maxi-

directly opposite each other. Allow the insert 3-5 min-

mum clearance between valve and guide should not

utes to cool and contract.

exceed 0.008 in. (0.20 mm) for exhaust and 0.006 in.

Now pry the insert out with a screwdriver or a small pry

(0.15 mm) for intake.

bar. Clean out any carbon or foreign material that may

2.

Regrind the valve face to a 45 degree angle.

3.

Check for bent valves while they are in the grinding

be in the insert bore. 3.

Check the outside diameter of a new valve seat insert

machine.

and the inside diameter of the valve seat bore. The 4.

insert should be 0.003-0.005 in. (0.76-0.127 mm) larger

Check the valve margin. If there is less than 0.040 in.

than the bore to ensure a good interference fit. Chill the

(1.0 mm) margin left, replace the valves. Standard mar-

insert and install it with a seat installing tool. Assuming

gin is 0.051 in. (1.3 mm).

the valve guides have been reconditioned or replaced, the new valve seats may now be ground to 45 degrees.

AGA64

1. 0.051 in. (1.3 mm) Valve Margin

Valve Spring 1.

Check that the spring free length is 1.81-1.75 in. (4644.5 mm) and the inclination is no more that .118 in. (3.0 mm).

2.

Using a spring compressor, check that at the set length, 1.52 in. (38.6 mm), the pressure is 43.4-36.8 lb. (19.716.7 kg).

APA126

Removing and Installing Valve Seat

26


Cylinder Head Reassembly After all cylinder head components have been reconditioned, ground or replaced, the head is ready for assembly. NOTE: There are two types of valve seals supplied by Service Parts; Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) seals, which are included in the gasket set

3

and Thermo King replacement seals which are sold individually in packages of 8. Normally, both seals do the same job, although some engines utilizing used AGA71

1.

Inclination

2.

Free Length

3.

valves that continue to exhibit excessive oil consump tion after an overhaul, may benefit by changing the

Square

seals from one type to the other.

Measuring Valve Spring Free Length and Inclination

1 1.

2 OEM Seal

2.

Thermo King Seal

Valve Seal Types 1.

Place the valves in the guides, and install the valve stem seals, being careful that the teflon insert does not get scratched or pulled from its rubber carrier. Use the installation tool (if supplied with the seals) for ease of installation. Later seal sets may not include this tool.

APA127

Testing Valve Spring Tension

Typical Valve Stem Seal Installation

27


2.

3.

Before placing the springs in position, make sure that

Rocker Arm Assembly

the steel spring seats are in place to ensure that the steel

1.

To disassemble the rocker arm assembly, remove the

spring does not wear the cast iron head.

clips at both ends of the shaft. Then remove the springs,

Install the valves, springs, and retainers.

rocker arms and supports. Arrange the rocker arms in the sequence of disassembly to ensure correct assembly.

APA128

1

3

2 Installing Spring Seat Washer

4.

4

1. Clip

3. Spring

2. Rocker Arms

4. Support

Rocker Arm Assembly

After the valves are installed, place the head on its side and fill up the exhaust ports with diesel fuel. Check

2.

Measure the rocker arm shaft deflection with a dial

around the exhaust valves for leaking fuel. Only a small

indicator and a set of “V” blocks. Rotate the rocker arm

seepage should be visible. Repeat this step for the

shaft one full turn and note the largest reading. The

intake valves. If the leakage seems excessive, the leak-

rocker arm shaft deflection is 50% of this reading.

ing valve will have to be removed and lapped again.

Replace the rocker arm shaft if the deflection is greater than 0.005 in. (0.127 mm).

APA129

Check Rocker Arm Shaft Deflection 3.

Testing Sealing Ability of Valves

Measure the outside dimension of the rocker arm shaft. The standard dimension is 0.7476-0.7480 in. (18.9919.00 mm). Replace the shaft if it is worn more than 0.005 in. (0.127 mm).

28


4.

Measure the inside diameter of the rocker arm bush-

Measure the outside diameter of the lifter with a microme-

ings. The standard dimension is 0.7484-0.7500 in.

ter. Standard diameter is 0.5108 in. (12.97 mm) wear.

(19.01-19.05 mm). If there is more than 0.005 in.

Replace the lifter if there is more than 0.002 in. (0.05 mm)

(0.127 mm) wear, replace the rocker arms. Do not reuse

wear.

any rocker arm/shaft combinations that exceed a combined clearance of more than 0.005 in. (0.127 mm) or high oil consumption may result due to excess oil throw

Pistons

off into the valve seals or crankcase breather areas.

1.

Remove and discard the old piston rings.

2.

Heat the piston in hot water, 120-140 F (49-60 C), and then push out the piston wrist pin. NOTE: When working with a piston and rod assem bly, do not clamp it in a steel jaw vise. Use a soft jaw vise, or use soft covers over the steel jaws. Clamping the rod in a steel vise will put small nicks in the rod.

1

These nicks become stress raisers that can cause pre mature rod failure.

1.

3.

Hardened Steel Face

6.

Contact Face Wear 5.

6.

If the pistons are to be reused, perform steps 4 through

4.

All di and se 2.2 engines have a letter stamped on the

Check wear on the rocker arm contact face. Recondi-

top of the piston between the valve relief areas. (See

tion or replace as necessary.

Inspection and Reconditioning the Cylinder Block). This letter indicates the size of the piston within the

Assemble the rocker arm shaft, supports, rocker arms,

manufacturing to tolerance range- A being the smallest,

springs and other hardware. Be sure to loosen all the

and D the largest. The tolerance range is 3.4633 to

valve lash adjusting screws.

3.4652 in. (87.967 to 88.016 mm). Each letter is

NOTE: Tightening down the rocker arm shaft with

approximately 0.0004 in. (0.01 mm) larger than the pre-

the valve lash adjustments in the original position

vious one.

may bend the push rods.

Measure the piston diameter. The measurement should be taken about 2.75 in. (70 mm) from the t op of the pis-

Push Rods

ton and at a right angle to the piston pin. The pistons

Check the push rods for bending and wear at the ends. Replace the rods if these conditions appear.

Lifters Check the face of the lifters for wear or damage. Replace the lifter if these conditions appear.

29


should not be reused if they are worn more than .002 in. (0.05 mm).

1 2 3 4

AGA45

Measuring the Piston 5.

Clean the ring grooves with a ring groove cleaner, being careful not to scrape any metal from the piston. If

Piston Ring Set

it is not possible to obtain a ring groove cleaner, a used ring can be broken and sharpened to do the job.

AGA46

Cleaning Ring Grooves 6.

Checking Ring Groove Clearance

Using a new set of piston rings, check the ring-togroove clearance (see Specifications) by inserting a

Wrist Pins

feeler gauge along with the ring and roll it all the way

The wrist pin and bushing carries a great deal of load in a

around the piston ring groove. Excessive side clearance

small area, so the wrist pin fit is very critical. A qualified

requires piston replacement. Do not install the rings

machine shop should do the pin fitting when the engine is

yet, the end gap must be checked first.

overhauled.

30


1.

Connecting Rods

If the block requires boring and new pistons are used, replace the wrist pins. Because of the very close toler-

Beginning with engine serial no. 936751, new connecting

ances of the wrist pin, piston bore and rod bushing bore

rods P/N 11-6873 are used. The new rod is heavier than the

0.0004-0.0008 in. (0.01-0.02 mm) measuring wear

old one and has knurled bolts. Because of the difference in

becomes very difficult using standard micrometers and

weight the two types cannot be mixed. Both are available

small hole or telescopic gauges.

from Service Parts, old style P/N 11-5824 and new style P/N 11-6873. Reconditioning a connecting rod requires varied and expensive equipment. If this equipment is not available, most machine shops are able to recondition the rods to “likenew” specifications. To recondition the rods yourself, use the following procedure: 1.

The connecting rods should, if possible, be glass bead cleaned, which stress relieves them.

2.

The connecting rod and cap should be assembled and torqued without the bearing. Measure the big end bore.

AGA47

If it is more than 0.001 in. (0.0254 mm) out-of-round, it

Wrist Pin Measurement

should be reconditioned. 2.

If precision gauging equipment is not available, the wrist pin to bushing fit can be checked by oiling the wrist pin and inserting it in the bore. It should be snug and require at lease a hand-push fit.

AGA48

Connecting Rod Bore Measurement 3.

Checking Wrist Pin-to Bushing Clearance

Use a rod alignment fixture to check for connecting rod twist or parallelism. The standard value for rod twist is

31


0.002 in (0.05 mm) per 4 in. (100 mm). The service

Manifold

limit is 0.008 in. (0.20 mm) per 4 in. (100 mm).

1.

Check the manifold for cracks, damage or carbon build up.

The standard value for rod parallelism is 0.002 in. (0.05 2.

mm) per 4 in. (100 mm). The service limit is 0.006 in.

Check for distortion using a straight edge and feeler

(0.15 mm) per 4 in. (100 mm). If the rod is twisted or

gauge. Resurface or replace the manifold if the distor-

bent beyond the service limit, the rod will have to be

tion is greater than 0.006 in. (0.15 mm). Earlier engines

straightened or replaced.

have an exhaust restrictor to control oil migration. Clean and check this if the engine is so equipped.

1

3

2 1

1.

Per 4.00 in. (100 mm)

2.

Parallelism no more than 0.006 in. (0.15 mm)

3.

Twist no more than 0.008 in. (0.20 mm)

Checking Manifold Distortion

Measuring Connecting Rod Twist and Parallelism 4.

Oil Filter Assembly

Press out the piston wrist pin bushing using a suitable

Two different oil filter assemblies are used on these engines;

tool. Reinstall the new bushing, and if a bushing

Full Flow and Dual 1500. The di 2.2 normally uses a full

expanding tool is available, expand the bushing in the

flow oil filter assembly and the se 2.2 normally uses a dual

bore. Ream or hone the new bushing to the finished-

1500 oil filter assembly. Either assembly will fit on either

size. Each bushing should be fitted to its own individ-

engine, but the dual 1500 element filter will not fit on the

ual wrist pin with precision gauging equipment.

full flow filter base and the full flow filter will not fit on the dual element filter base. The oil filter assembly incorporates an oil pressure relief valve to maintain the engine oil pressure at 40 to 65 psi (275 to 448 kPa) and a bypass valve to protect the engine from oil starvation if the filter becomes plugged with accumulated sludge.

APA130

Removing Wrist Pin Bushing

32


2

3 4 1 5

3

1.

Dirty Oil From Pump

3.

Clean Filtered Oil to Engine

2.

Filter Bypass Valve

4.

Pressure Regulator Full Flow Filter System

33

5.

Oil Returned to Sump through Pressure Regulator


2

3 4 1 5

6

7

3

8

1. Dirty Oil From Pump

5. Excessive Oil Bleed Port on Pressure Regulator

2. Filter Bypass Valve

6. Clean Oil from Bypass Filter Returned to Sump

3. Clean Oil from Full Flow Filter to Engine

7. Fine Micron Bypass Filter

4. Pressure Regulator

8. Coarse Micron Full Flow Filter Dual Flow 1500 Filter System

34


Reconditioning the Assembly 1.

Remove and discard the old filter.

2.

Remove the bypass and relief valves and oil pressure safety switch.

3.

Thoroughly clean all parts and examine them for cracks and other damage.

4.

The relief valve cannot be disassembled. The valve must be replaced if oil pressure is low because of excessive oil being bypassed. It is interchangeable with the C201 oil relief valve.

5.

Replace the O-ring seals on the bypass and relief valves before assembling.

35


Oil Pumps Different types of oil pumps were used in these engines. The most noticeable difference in the oil pumps is the strainer size. The small strainer oil pump has a strainer that is much smaller and has seven 0.28 in. (7 mm) holes instead of a screen. There are some other minor differences but all are inspected in the same way.

1

1

2 2

3 3

4 4 1. Knock Pin Type Pinion

3.

Gear Support Point

1. Shrinkage Fit Pinion

3.

2. Single Supported Driven Gear

4.

Large Strainer

2. Double Supported Driven Gear

4. Small Strainer

Gear Supporting Points

Large Strainer Oil Pump

Small Strainer Oil Pump

(interchangeable with small strainer pump)

(no longer available as a service replacement part)

36


Oil Pump Inspection 1.

3

Remove the strainer by unbending the tabs. Only four tabs are used on the original assembly. Use the four

2

unused tabs when reassembling. If all eight tabs have been removed, replace the oil pump.

1 11

2.

Remove the oil pump cover bolts and the cover.

3.

Remove the idler gear.

4.

The driven gear, its shaft and pinion gear are not normally removed because the driven gear is pressed on the shaft and the pinion gear is pinned to the shaft.

4 5.

5

Visually inspect the gears and pump body for scratches and other damage.

6 7

6.

Place the idler gear in the pump body.

7.

Check for excessive clearance between the body cover surface and gears with a straight edge and feeler gauge-

8 10

0.002 to 0.0045 in. (0.050 to 0.114 mm) is the standard dimension.

9

1. Oil Pump Assembly

7.

Cover

2. Pin-pinion gear

8.

Bolt-cover

3. Gear-pinion gear

9.

Screen

4. Gear-idler

10. Pipe-oil pump

5. Gear-driven

11.

Bolt-mtg. oil pump

6. Cover-oil pump body

Oil Pump Body Cover Gear Clearance

Oil Pump Assembly (exploded view) NOTE: Oil pump rebuild kits are not available. Only items #1, #2, #3, #10 and #11 are available as replacement service parts.

37


Gear to Oil Pump Body Wall Clearance

8.

Check for excessive clearance between the gear tips and pump body inner wall with a feeler gauge-0.002 to 0.0031 in. (0.050 to 0.082 mm) is the standard dimension.

9.

If any of these measurements exceed the recommended tolerances by more than 0.002 in. (0.05 mm), replace the oil pump assembly.

Water Pump Although a number of different water pumps were used on di 2.2 and se 2.2 engines over the years, a replacement water pump is available through Service Parts which fits all engines. A new water pump is P/N 11-8478, a remanufactured water pump is P/N 811-8478. NOTE: Water pump rebuild kits are not available. A worn or damaged water pump must be replaced.

38


Engine Breathing System

PCV Valve Cover Breathers

There are four types of breather systems used on the di 2.2

Both of the positive and negative PCV valve systems vent

and se 2.2 engines.

crankcase gases only to the intake and do not draw any fresh

1.

2.

Chimney breather can with negative crankcase pres-

air into the crankcase, which is called a closed crankcase

sure.

system.

Side breather can with negative crankcase pressure (beginning with S/N 102568).

3.

PCV valve on valve cover with positive crankcase pressure (beginning with S/N 221207).

4.

PCV valve on valve cover with negative crankcase pressure (beginning with S/N E10889).

The breather should be disassembled and cleaned on a regular basis.

Chimney and Side Can Breathers The chimney and side breather can use an opening in the block that draws fresh air into the crankcase. Engines with worn rings will force crankcase gases or oil out of the

PCV Type Engine Breather

breathers.

2 1

1. Chimney Breather Can 2. Side Breather Can Can Type Engine Breathers

39


Closed Crankcase with PCV Valve

Closed Positive PCV System

An improved closed PCV system was incorporated on Sec-

The following schematic illustrates the closed Positive

ond Generation se 2.2 engines (beginning with serial No.

Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) operation.

221207) and on all Third Generation se 2.2 engines. The

In the unrestricted position, gas flow exits the crankcase via

system utilizes a spring and diaphragm, located in the valve

the push rod passages and past the orifice and diaphragm. In

cover, to maintain a constant flow of crankcase gas regard-

the past, as air cleaner restriction increased, vacuum and

less of the intake manifold pressure. This results in a system

flow would increase in the crossover line lowering the

with a constantly regulated crankcase pressure even in the

crankcase pressure. To prevent this, the PCV diaphragm

presence of ring wear or a restricted air cleaner.

expands into the passageway, restricting the flow to maintain a constant, slightly positive crankcase pressure. CAUTION: To prevent injury always check engine oil level with the engine shut off. The positive PCV system will cause oil to be thrown out of the dipstick tube if the dipstick is removed while the engine is running.

1

7

7

2

1

2

6

6

5 4

3

Unrestricted Position

7

1

2

6

5 4

3

5

Partially Restricted Position

4

Fully Restricted

1.

PCV Valve

5.

Baffle Plate

2.

Spring

6.

To Crossover Tube

3.

Valve Cover

7.

Diaphragm (on bottom of spring)

4. Push Rod Passages Closed Positive PCV System

40

3


Closed Negative PCV System

The negative pressure system functions similar to the posi-

The following schematic illustrates the closed negative

tive PCV system but maintains a negative crankcase pres-

crankcase ventilation (PCV) operation.

sure.

1

2

3

6 5 4 Unrestricted Position

Partially Restricted

Fully Restricted Position

1. PCV Valve

5.

Baffle Plate

2. Diaphragm (on top of spring)

6.

To Crossover Tube

3. Valve Cover

7.

Spring

4. Push Rod Passages Closed Negative PCV System

41


Checking Crankcase Pressure 1.

Breather System

An adapter to check crankcase pressure can be made

Typical Crankcase Pressures*

from a C201 dipstick (11-2893) and a fitting (55-2857). 2.

Chimney Breather Can -3 in. to -8 in. water column

Remove the dipstick from the cap and drill a 11/32 in. (8.7 mm) hole in the cap. Tap the hole with an 1/8 in.

Side Breather Can

-3 in. to -8 in. water column

Closed Positive PCV

-1.5 in. to +3.5 in. water column

Closed Negative PCV

-2.5 in. to -7.5 in. water column

NPT tap and install the fitting. 3.

This adapter will provide a convenient hook-up for the Magnehelic gauge to monitor crankcase pressure.

4.

To use the adapter, remove the oil dipstick and replace it with the adapter. Connect the low pressure side of the

*measured with a new air filter installed.

gauge to the adapter and observe the readings on high

Typical Crankcase Pressures

and low speed.

If your readings are significantly more positive than those

3

shown, you may have excess blowby past the rings. A com-

2

1

pression check should be performed to confirm this. To convert a positive pressure PCV system to a negative pressure system install Service Parts Kit P/N 10-340. The following items can effect your crankcase pressure readings.

1. Fitting 3. Discard Dipstick

Crankcase Pressure Effect

Typical Cause

Vacuum Gauge Adapter

Increase

Piston Rings Stuck or Worn

Decrease

Air Cleaner Dirty or Plugged

Increase

Breather Hose Plugged with Dirt or Ice

Decrease

PCV Diaphragm Torn

2. Fill Cap

2 1

Increase

PCV Diaphragm Frozen to Seat in Valve Troubleshooting Chart

1.

Adapter

2.

Magnehelic Gauge 10 in. (254 mm) Mearsuring Engine Pressures

42


Crossover Hose Alignment

PCV Breather Vent

During a routine service, check the orientation of the cross-

The PCV valve that regulates the crankcase pressure can

over hose from the air intake adapter to the valve cover. It is

develop excessive pressure in the engine crankcase if the

important to avoid kinks and bends in the hose to prevent

atmospheric vent in the cover of the valve is plugged.

icing during cold weather operation.

NOTE: If your engine has a crankcase pressure signifi cantly over 3 inches (7.6 mm) WC positive, or has blown out its oil level switch, check this vent for blockage.

1

2

3 1.

Valve Cover

3.

Air Intake Manifold

2. Crossover Hose Correct Crossover Hose Alignment

1

1.

PCV Breather Vent

1 1 1.

Vent Hole

Restricted Crossover Hose

Incorrect Crossover Hose Alignment

43


BLANK PAGE

44

Engine Assembly

Assembly Precautions

Cam Bearings

NOTE: Refer to the Specifications chapter for specifica-

NOTE: Cam bearings can be damaged by the solvents

tions not given in this chapter.

used to clean the block. New cam bearings should always be installed when an engine is overhauled. The cam bear-

After the components of the engine have been disassem-

ings supplied by Service Parts are semi-finished and will

bled, repaired, reconditioned, or replaced, the engine can be

need to be line bored by a machine shop. Always check the

assembled. It is very important to keep the engine as clean

bearings against the cam shaft before installing.

as possible while it is being assembled, because dirt is one of the major factors that contributes to the failure of rebuilt

1.

engines. To avoid problems, take these precautions: 1.

Make sure each bearing is installed in the proper position. Oil hole alignment is acceptable if the hole in the

Do not assemble the engine in an area where any type

bearing has at least 50% of its area open to the hole in

of grinding is done. 2.

Keep your workbench, tools, and hands clean.

3.

Keep sub-assemblies covered until they are needed.

4.

If the engine must be left, even for a short period of

Install the cam bearing using a cam bearing driver.

the block. The bearings may be installed at room temperature or they can be chilled to make installation easier.

time, cover the engine until you return. 5.

Make sure to follow the sequence of assembly exactly. If certain parts are not installed in the correct order, the engine may require some disassembly to install these parts properly.

6.

Check all the assembly tolerances such as bearing clearance, end play, and gear lash carefully. Neglecting

1

these tolerances can cause serious reliability problems in a rebuilt engine. NOTE: Cam bearings supplied by Service Parts are

1. Cam Bearing Driver

semi-finished. If cam bearings are replaced, the bear-

Cam Bearing Installation

ings will need to be line bored. If there is any ques tions concerning type of bearing, check the bearings

NOTE: The C201 cam bearing driver will not work on

against the camshaft before installing.

this engine. The cam bearings are larger. A new driver and pilot can easily be machined to fit the C201 tool.

45

Engine Assembly (Rev. 5/01)

2

1

4

3 1.

Flywheel end

3.

Notch toward rear

2.

Arrows point toward Flywheel end

4.

Water Pump end

1

1. Valve Lifter Valve Lifter Installation

Cam Bearing Location 4. 2.

Install or check all oil galley plugs and the rear cam-

The front and middle cam bearings are the same. The

shaft bearing cover. Silicone sealant must be applied to

rear cam bearing is wider and has a notch on one side.

the mating surfaces of the camshaft bearing cover to

The front and middle bearings each have two holes

prevent oil seepage.

(only one is used). The hole centered in the middle of the bearing with a groove machined on one side is the

Crankshaft Clearance

hole that is lined up with t he hole in the block. The off-

1.

set hole is not used. Both holes in the rear bearing are

Place the new upper main bearing inserts in the block. Check that all oil holes are aligned.

utilized. One hole allows oil into the bearing, and a

NOTE: All upper main bearings must have oil holes.

machined groove in the bearing routes oil to the second

The lower inserts do not have oil holes.

hole. This hole feeds the rocker arm assembly. The notch in the bearing faces the rear (flywheel end) of the engine. NOTE: The arrows on all three cam bearings point to the rear of the engine. 3.

Coat the lifter barrels and faces with engine assembly compound or engine oil and install the lifters. NOTE: This MUST BE DONE before the camshaft is installed.

Main Bearing Positions

46


2.

Carefully place the crankshaft in the block.

3.

Install the half-circle thrust bearings in the block on

NOTE: The cast-in-arrows on the main bearing caps point to the rear of the engine (flywheel end). The main bearing caps are also numbered, with No.1

both sides of the middle main bearing.

being the rear (flywheel end).

1

1

4

1. Groove

2

1. Embossed “C”

3. Middle

2. Rear (flywheel end)

4. Front

Main Bearing Cap positions

Thrust Bearing Installation 4.

3

Place a piece of Plastigauge on each main journal.

5.

Place the lower main bearing inserts in the main bear-

Remove the main caps and check that the main bearing clearance is 0.0013 to 0.0033 in. (0.030 to 0.083 mm).

ing caps. Install and torque the main bearing caps to

6.

123 ft lb (167 N.m) in increments of 30 ft lb (41 N.m)

Using a dial indicator or feeler gauge, check the crankshaft end play. Standard is 0.002 to 0.008 in. (0.05 to 0.20 mm) with a wear limit of 0.012 in. (0.30 mm). If the clearance is excessive (usually from grinding the journal undersize) shims must be cut from shim stock to bring the end play within specifications. It is rare that there is not enough end play. Check for a warped thrust bearing. If the end play is still insufficient, lap the thrust bearings.

AGA35

Checking with Plastigauge

47


Camshaft Lubricate the camshaft lobes, journals and bearings with engine assembly compound, or engine oil, and install the camshaft. Install the camshaft thrust plate, torque the bolts to 14 ft-lb (19 N•m) and install the camshaft gear. Torque the camshaft gear mounting bolt to 74 ft-lb (110 N•m). Use a dial indicator to check camshaft end play. If it exceeds the service limit of .008 in. (0.20 mm), replace the camshaft gear or camshaft thrust plate. NOTE: The gear mounting bolt may be easier to torque after the camshaft idler is installed. It allows the camshaft to be locked up by blocking the crankshaft.

End Play Measurement 7.

Coat the main bearing inserts and crankshaft journals with engine assembly compound or engine oil. Place a very light coating of silicone sealant on the sealing surface of the front main cap and under the main cap bolt heads. Install all main caps and torque to 125 ft-lb (170 N•m) in increments of 30 ft-lb (41 N•m). NOTE: Front main cap must be lined up flush with front of block or oil will leak because the front plate is distorted.

1

1.

Checking Camshaft End Play

Silicone Sealant

Applying Sealant to Main Bearing Caps

48


Rear Plate

1.

The rear plate is positioned on the rear of the block by a pin

Apply a thin coating of silicone sealant to the shaded areas as shown.

and the special alignment bolt. The alignment of the plate is critical for two reasons, centering the rear seal on the crankshaft and the alignment of the cylinder block and rear plate at the oil pan sealing surface.

1 1

1.

Apply Silicone Sealant

Rear Plate Sealant Areas 2.

Install the plate and torque 8 mm bolts to 14 ft-lb. (19 N•m) and the 10 mm bolts to 30 ft-lb. (41 N•m).

Rear Crankshaft Seals and Seal Plates Two types of rear crankshaft seals and seal plates were used

1.

on di 2.2 and se 2.2 engines; Radial Crankshaft Seals and

Must be flush with cylinder block

Axial Crankshaft Seals.

Rear Plate Position Rear Plate Installation If the rear crankshaft seal is not centered on the crankshaft, oil leaks and premature seal failure will result.

1

The plate must be flush with the rear of the block or oil leaks will occur because of oil pan misalignment. Installing the original plate on the cylinder block should not cause problems, however using a new plate or a plate from another engine could result in misalignment because of the

2

pin position. If a new plate is used, carefully check for plate misalign-

1. Radial Crankshaft Seal 2. Axial Crankshaft Seal

ment. If it is flush with the block all the way across the rear,

Seal Identification

it indicates the seal will also be centered correctly.

49


Radial Rear Crankshaft Seal All di 2.2 and se 2.2 engines produced prior to serial #198650 had radial rear crankshaft seals (P/N 33-2208) with matching seal plates (P/N 11-5792). Use ONLY Radial crankshaft seals and matching seal plates on these engines.

Removal and Installation 1.

Remove the old radial rear crankshaft seal and wear ring (see “Crankshaft Wear Ring (radial seal only)” on page 19 for wear ring removal details).

2.

Install the radial rear crankshaft seal after coating the outside diameter with silicone sealant. Drive the seal to

1

the bottom of the bore in the plate, using tool 204-592.

3

2 1.

Larger Diameter Opening

2.

Smaller Diameter Opening

3.

Depth of Large Diameter Opening Rear Seal Identification

NOTE: The rear seal plate is identified by the size of the smaller diameter hole as shown in the table below.

Installing Radial Rear Crankshaft Seal Axial Rear Crankshaft Seals All se 2.2 engines after serial #198650 use a new axial rear crankshaft seal (P/N 33-2634). This change also includes the use of a new rear seal plate (P/N 11-8857). The replacement seal is packaged as an assembly. Use ONLY Axial rear crankshaft seals and matching seal plates on these engines. NOTE: The new seal may only be used with the new seal plate. Do not separate the metal ring and rubber seal assembly or the rubber lip will be damaged. Use the following information to identify seal plates.

50

New Style Seal Plate P/N 11-8857

Old Style Seal Plate P/N 11-5792

#1 Larger Diameter

Approximately 4.645 in. (117.9 mm)


#2 Smaller Diameter



#3 Depth of Larger Diameter




NOTE: In extreme emergencies the old seal can be

1.

installed in a new seal plate. A wear ring (11-5833) must

Remove the two hex head screws and the removable half of the seal puller from the seal removal tool.

be installed on the crankshaft before installing the seal. Take extreme care to insure that the seal is installed no more than 0.040 in. (1.016 mm) below the outside surface of the seal plate. When a new style seal plate is used as a replacement for an

1

old style plate, the wear ring should be removed from the crankshaft and a new style axial seal installed. When

2

removing the wear ring, use great care to prevent damage to

3

the crankshaft.

5 4

NOTE: Any scratches, nicks or damaged areas of the crankshaft must be cleaned up or the new metal ring may not seal to the shaft.

1. Tool Fits Behind Lip on Metal Seal Ring

4. Stationary Half

Axial Seal Removal

2. Removable Half

5. Seal in Place

The seal removal tool (204-848) is designed to remove the

3. Removal Bolt

axial rear seals. If the seal has been previously replaced

Axial Seal Removal Tool

using Loc-Tite or a similar sealant on the metal ring the pos2.

sibility exists that the removal tool will straighten the lip on

Press the stationary half of the seal puller past and behind the outer lip of the metal ring of the seal.

the metal ring instead of removing the seal assembly. If this occurs the rubber portion of the seal may be removed by

3.

While holding the stationary side of the tool engaged

prying it out. The metal ring can then be removed by care-

on the lip, press the removable half of the tool in and

fully cutting it with a chisel.

behind the lip on the other side of the seal.

NOTE: Any scratches, nicks or damaged areas of the

4.

Reinstall the hex head screws that secure the removable

crankshaft must be cleaned up or the new metal ring may

half of the seal puller. At this point the removable half

not seal to the shaft.

will not be flat against the top of the tool, but will be close enough to get the cap screws started. 5.

Carefully tighten the screws while holding the tool behind the lip. As the screws are tightened the tool will pull together and firmly grip the lip.

6.

With the tool firmly locked behind the lip, tighten the removal bolt. The entire seal assembly will be drawn out.

51


Axial Seal Installation The seal installation tool (204-847) is designed to install the axial rear crankshaft seal at the correct depth and to insure the correct preload between the rubber lip and the metal ring.

4 NOTE: Do not attempt to install this seal without using

3

the installation tool. Driving the seal in by hand will crush

2

the rubber lip into the metal ring and cause the seal to burn up when the engine is run.

1

If necessary, the inside diameter of the metal ring can be lightly coated with Loc-Tite 620 or silicone gasket sealer.

5

The original seal ring was installed without sealant, but the use of sealant offers some insurance against leaks if the crankshaft has some surface damage. However, sealant will make future removal of the ring more difficult. If necessary, a light coating of silicone sealant may also be applied to the

1. Installation Bolt

4. Mandrel

outside diameter of the seal.

2. Cup

5. Check Cutout to be Sure the Mandrel Contacts the Cup

1.

Remove any imperfections from the surface of the crankshaft that contacts the metal ring of the seal. Check your work by placing the installation tool cup

3. Seal

over the end of the crankshaft to check fit. The cup

Axial Seal Installation Tool

must fit smoothly over the crankshaft or it will bind 3.

when installing the seal. 2.

Place the seal over the installation tool mandrel with the metal face of the seal toward the engine.

Attach the installation tool mandrel to the crankshaft

4.

using two flywheel bolts. The cup stops must be facing

Place the tool cup over the mandrel as shown. This allows you to see when the cup has completely bot-

away from the crankshaft as shown.

tomed on the mandrel.

NOTE: There are three different types of flywheel

5.

bolts. If the bolt with an integral washer is used, part

Carefully tighten the installation tool bolt. This pulls the cup over the mandrel and presses the seal into

of the washer must be ground away so it does not

place. When the bolt stops turning check the cutouts on

extend past the mandrel. The other two bolt styles may

the cup to be sure it is completely bottomed on the

interfere if a point of the hex is facing directly out.

mandrel. The seal is now installed to the proper depth.

Grind down the points as required. 6.

Remove the installation tool. NOTE: If there are any imperfections on the crank shaft the cup may jam and be difficult to remove. Tap ping alternately on each side will assist in removing a jammed cup. This problem can be eliminated by testing the fit of the cup on the crankshaft before installing the seal.

52


Front Plate

2.

Place the camshaft idler gear on the camshaft idler gear support. Make sure the X on the tooth of the camshaft

Using a new gasket, install the front plate. Make sure the

idler gear is indexed between the two X’s on the teeth

two hallow dowels are installed to position the plate.

of the crankshaft timing gear, and the Y on the tooth of

NOTE: The front main cap must be positioned flush with

the camshaft idler gear is indexed between the two Y’s

the front surface of the block or the front plate and timing

on the teeth of the camshaft timing gear.

cover will be warped.

3.

Install the injection pump idler gear, make sure the Z on the tooth of the camshaft idler gear is indexed between the two Z’s on the teeth of the injection pump idler gear, torque the retaining bolt to 76 ft-lb (103 N•m). Install the camshaft idler gear retaining cap and the transfer pump cam oil fed line. The oil feed line should point toward the transfer pump cam. Torque the bolts to14 ft-lb (19 N•m).

1

1 1. Alignment Dowels Position of Alignment Dowels

Idler Gear Support 1.

Install the camshaft idler gear support with the oil feed hole pointing upwards towards the head surface.

Pump Cam Oil Feed Line

1

1. Hole Facing Toward Head Surface Installing Camshaft Idler Gear Support

53


Z’s

X’s

Y’s

Timing Gear Marks

54


Flywheel Installation Install the flywheel. The flywheel on this engine does not

1

have a pin to correctly orient the flywheel timing marks to the crankshaft. A few early engines do not have an arrow stamped on the flywheel indicating “up” to assist in correct installation. Use the following procedures for engines without arrows. NOTE: The following sequence of flywheel/bellhousing installation steps must be followed on early engines to ensure correct positioning of the flywheel timing marks to the crankshaft. The flywheel can be installed in the wrong position and if not corrected will make it impossible to time the fuel injection pump. 1.

Rotate the crankshaft to bring No.1 crank pin to top dead center.

2.

3.

Install the flywheel on the crankshaft and secure it with one bolt. The bolt needs only to be finger tight.

1.

Temporarily install the bellhousing and secure it with

Note: 6-pin flywheel shown, 8-pin also used

one or two bolts. 4.

Flywheel Positioning

Remove the bolt from the flywheel and carefully rotate

Flywheel Interchangeability

the flywheel until the TC mark on the flywheel lines up

There are four possible combinations of 8-pin and 6-pin fly-

with the pointer on the bellhousing. Do not allow the

wheels with both small and large crankshaft compressors.

crankshaft to rotate. 5.

Indicates Up

Units with small crankshaft compressors and 6-pin fly-

Install the locking ring and torque the eight flywheel

wheels are interchangeable with 8-pin flywheels provided

bolts to 86 ft-lb (117 N•m) in the sequence shown.

you have the correct 8-pin clutch or 8-pin coupling.

NOTE: Later production engines have an arrow stamped

Units with large crankshaft compressors and 8-pin fly-

on the flywheel indicating “up”. Simply rotate the No. 1

wheels are interchangeable with 6-pin flywheels provided

crank pin to top dead center and install the flywheel with

you have the correct 6-pin clutch or 6-pin coupling.

the arrow pointing up.

NOTE: See TK-50254 for complete information regarding interchageability of components and Service Part numbers.

55


Pistons and Rings

NOTE: When the engines are initially assembled at

1.

Check the piston ring end gaps. The end gaps may

the factory the numbers on the rods and caps gener-

exceed the upper limit by 10% (see table). If the end

ally face away from the crankshaft. The rods could be

gaps are out of this range, however, make sure the pis-

installed either way but is a good practice to note the

tons and rings are the same size and that the cylinder

orientation during disassembly and assemble them the

bores are the correct size for the pistons and rings. If

same way.

everything is correct but the end gaps are too small, carefully file the ring ends to obtain the correct end

3.

Place the piston rings on the pistons in the proper order. All four rings are marked with a T. The T faces up.

gaps.

•

No. 1 is a chrome barrel faced ring. It should never be expanded over 1 in. (24.4 mm).

•

No. 2 is a plain compression ring.

•

No. 3 is a grooved combination scrapercompression ring.

•

No. 4 is an oil control ring with expander.

1 2 3 4 Checking Piston Ring End Gap

Ring

Gap (Inches

Gap (mm)

1st

0.004 to 0.014

(0.10 to 0.35)

2nd

0.008 to 0.014

(0.20 to 0.35)

3rd

0.006 to 0.012

(0.15 to 0.30)

Oil

0.004 to 0.014

(0.10 to 0.35)

Piston Ring Location 4.

each other or with the wrist pin. Coat the cylinder bore,

Piston Ring End Gap Table 2.

Make sure that there are no ring end gaps aligned with pistons and rings with engine oil. Using a ring com-

Heat the pistons in hot water 120 to 140 F (49 to 60 C). Coat the wrist pin and rod bushing with engine assembly compound or engine oil. The triangular marks on the tops of the pistons should point to the front of the engine and the numbers of the rods and rod caps should face away from the crankshaft, install the circlips.

56

pressor, install the piston assemblies with the marks pointing forward.


.

Checking Rod Side Clearance Installing Pistons

Connecting Rods 1.

Oil Pump Install the oil pump. Torque the mounting bolts to 14 ft-lb (19 N•m). Install the oil supply pipe.

Place the rod bearing inserts in the rods and rod caps. Place a piece of Plastigauge on each rod journal, install

NOTE: Do not install the oil pan yet. The engine should

the rods and caps and torque to 62 ft-lb (84 N•m). in

be pressure tested first.

increments of 20 ft-lb (27 N•m). The numbers on the rods and caps should face away from the crankshaft. Remove the rod caps and check that the rod bearing clearance is 0.0011 to 0.0027 in. (0.029 to 0.069 mm). Coat the rod bearing inserts and rod journals with engine assembly compound or engine oil, install the rods and caps and torque to 20 ft-lb (27 N•m). 2.

Using a feeler gauge, check the rod side clearance. If the clearance is less than .007-.011 in. (0.175-0.290 mm), the rod can be removed and its side faces lapped on a lapping board.

Oil Pump Installation

Cylinder Head 1.

Install the cylinder head gasket (TOP mark up) and the cylinder head. If the head alignment dowels have been removed for block boring, make sure the open cut faces the camshaft when installing the dowels.

57


2.

NOTE: Proper torquing sequence of the head bolts is

STEP #3: Starting again with head bolt #1, repeat the

very critical. A three step angular torquing procedure

same procedure outlined in STEP #2, turning each head

outlined below must be used.

bolt

75° or from the 12 o’clock position to the 2

o’clock position. The head bolts are now properly tightened. 12 16

5

4

Install the push rods. If the push rods are being reused, 1

8

13

9

17

replace them in the same order that they were removed. Install the rocker arm assembly. Make sure the valve adjusting screws have been loosened and backed out.

15

2

7 11

3

10 6

18

Tighten the rocker arm support mounting bolts by alternately turning each bolt one turn at a time. This evenly

14

applies the valve spring pressure to the rocker arm assembly. Torque the mounting bolts to 40 ft-lb (54 N•m) in 20 ft-lb (27 N•m) increments.

Headbolt Tightening Sequence

NOTE: Do not use an air wrench to install the rocker

STEP #1: Starting approximately in the center of the head, install head bolt #1 and torque it to 40 ft-lb. (54 N•m). Working your way outward in a angular pattern as shown, install head bolt #2, then #3, etc. torquing each bolt to 40 ft-lb. (54 N•m).

arm support bolts. The tilting of the rocker arm assembly combined with the speed of the air wrench will gall the bolts in the aluminum rocker arm sup ports.

Valve Adjustment

STEP #2: Starting with head bolt #1, and the torque

Adjust both the intake and exhaust valves to .016 in. (0.40

wrench in the 12 o’clock position, turn the head bolt an

mm). Refer to the valve adjustment procedure in the R un In

additional 75° or until the torque wrench is in the 2

Section.

o’clock position. Repeat this procedure on each head bolt in the same order as shown above.

Adjusting Valves Additional Turning of Head Bolts

58


Oil Filter Assembly

NOTE: Although a C201 engine is shown, a di and se

1.

2.2 test is similar.

Install the oil filter assembly. Torque to 30 ft-lb (41 N•m). Install a fresh filter.

2.

Pressure check the engine. Pressurizing the engine will show any problem areas in the oiling system and will prevent a dry start up when the engine is finally test run. Fill the pressure tank with engine oil and attach to fitting that supplies the oil pressure gauge. Check for any other open fittings, such as a feed line for a bypass filter, and cap them off. Pressurize the tank to 60 psi (413 kPa) and open the oil

1

line up to the engine. The tank will fill the oil filter first and then pressurize the entire oil system of the engine. Check each individual rod and main bearing for oil leakage. Each bearing should drip at a fairly good rate. There should be no large streams of oil from the bearings or any other part

2

of the engine. Any excessive leakage indicates a problem, such as a wrong bearing, cracked or porous block casting, loose or missing galley plugs.

1. Oil Feed Line

The transfer pump cam oil feed line should be dripping

2.

Pressure Tank

Pressure Checking Engine

oil if the camshaft idler gear support has been installed correctly.

3.

Rotate No.1 cylinder to 28° BTDC to line up the cam-

Install the rocker arm cover using a new O-ring gasket. Torque the cap nuts to 9 ft-lb (12 N•m).

shaft feed hole with the supply port. Oil should appear

4.

at the rocker arms.

Press the front crankshaft seal into the timing gear cover after coating the outside edge of the seal with sil-

After the engine oil system has been pressured checked,

icone sealant.

the assembly can be completed.

5.

Using a new O-ring and square seal rings, install the timing gear cover.

59


NOTE: The transfer pump SHOULD NOT be

.

installed on the timing gear cover when installing the cover.

1

1

1.

2 Dowel Pin

2.

Special Alignment Bolt

Bellhousing Dowel Pin and Shoulder Bolt 1. Square Seal Rings

The second area is the junction of the oil pan and bellhousing. If the positioning of the oil pan is not correct, the bell-

Installing Timing Gear Cover

housing will be distorted when the two components are bolted together, causing the bellhousing runout to increase

Bellhousing / Oil Pan Installation The installation of the bellhousing and oil pan are grouped

well above 0.008in. (0.20 mm).

together because there are two critical areas in the installa-

The bellhousing bolts to the back of cylinder block and

tion of these components and the installation of one influ-

projects below the block. The oil pan bolts to the bottom of

ences the installation of the other.

the cylinder block and projects rearward to the bellhousing.

The first area is the concentricity of the bellhousing to the

The bellhousing and oil pan are bolted together at this point.

crankshaft. The bellhousing must be concentric with the crankshaft centerline within .004 in. (0.10 mm), or the compressor will be damaged. The bellhousing is aligned at the factory, and this alignment is maintained by a dowel pin and special shoulder bolt.

1

1. Critical Areas Bellhousing / Oil Pan Interface

60


The oil pan on the C201 engine was located rigidly with pins to the block, and if the base did not contact the bellhousing tightly, spacers would be used to take up the clearance. The di and se 2.2 engine does not use shims. The dowels for the oil pan are a loose fit allowing the pan to be shifted slightly. 1.

Apply silicone sealant around the ends of the rubber gaskets. Insert the tips of the front gasket into the slots provided in the main cap/block junction. The rear gasket does not utilize tips.

2.

1

Coat the gaskets and engine block with a light coat of

1.

silicone sealant as shown.

Silicone Sealant

Apply Silicone Sealant to Shaded Areas NOTE: The amount of sealer used must be very small

3.

or the excess will squeeze into the crankcase. Sealant

Place the oil pan on the cylinder block. Install the bolts and tighten finger tight.

squeezing out on the outside of the engine indicates too much sealant. If sealant appears on the outside of

4.

the engine, it is also squeezing out inside the engine.

Place the bellhousing on the engine block. Install the bolts, including the two bellhousing to oil pan bolts and tighten finger tight.

5.

Using a dial indicator mounted on the flywheel, check the bellhousing runout. The bellhousing must be concentric with the flywheel to within 0.004 in. (0.1 mm). If the runout is excessive, the compressor will be damaged.

Installing Rubber Gaskets

Checking Runout of Bellhousing with Dial Indicator

61


6.

If the runout figure is slightly above the limit, use a soft hammer to tap the bellhousing into place. Then torque all but the two bellhousing to oil pan bolts. 8 mm 14 ft-lb (19 N•m) 10 mm 30 ft-lb (41 N•m)

7.

Use a feeler gauge to check the contact area between the bellhousing and oil pan for clearance. Lightly tap the oil pan toward the bellhousing with a soft hammer to eliminate any clearance. Torque the two 12 mm bellhousing to oil pan bolts to 56 ft-lb (76 N•m).

8.

Torque the oil pan mounting bolts to 14 ft-lb (19 N•m).

9.

Check the bellhousing runout.

Reaming Bellhousing for Dowel Pin

Occasionally the alteration of the original bellhousing cylinder block rear plate combination, such as the use of a new short block or replacement of the original bellhousing make it difficult to bring the bellhousing into the specified limit. If this occurs, do the following: 1.

Remove the dowel pin and special shoulder bolt.

2.

Install the rear plate if it was removed. Install the flywheel and bellhousing.

3.

Make sure the rear plate is flush with the bottom of the cylinder block. NOTE: Without the dowel pins the rear plate may not

Reaming Bellhousing for Shoulder Bolt

be concentric with the crankshaft, however the rear seal will usually center the plate. A dial indicator may

4.

7.

Adjust the oil pan to eliminate any clearance in the bell-

be used before installing the flywheel to check con-

housing to oil pan contact area. Torque the bellhousing

centricity.

to oil pan bolts and then torque the oil pan bolts.

Use a dial indicator to align the bellhousing to within

Manifolds

0.004 in. (0.10 mm). 5.

Torque all bellhousing bolts.

6.

Ream the dowel pin hole to 7/16 in. and install an over-

Install the intake and exhaust manifolds. Earlier engines have an exhaust restrictor to control oil migration. Reinstall the restrictor if applicable.

size pin, P/N 55-5578. Ream the shoulder bolt hole to 0.498 in. and install an oversize bolt, P/N 55-6379.

62


Injection Pump Install the injection pump (see the Fuel System Section).

Injection Nozzles 1.

2.

Install the water pump.

3.

Install the thermostat housing.

4.

Install the crankshaft pulley boss. Use a light coat of

Install the injection nozzles. Use new O-rings and seal-

silicone sealant on the crankshaft to prevent oil seep-

ing washers. The sealing washers are installed with

age. Torque the bolts to 161 ft-lb (218 N•m).

taper facing down. Torque the nozzle retaining nut to 27 ft-lb (37 N•m).

1

1.

Taper Faces Down

Nozzle Sealing Washer

63

BLANK PAGE

64

Lubrication System

The di and se 2.2 engines have a pressure lubrication sys-

and cylinder walls are lubricated by oil thrown from con-

tem. Oil is circulated by a gear-type oil pump driven off a

necting rod bearings as the crankshaft rotates.

gear on the camshaft. The pump has several times the

From the rear camshaft bearing, oil passes through an oil

capacity required by the engine; excess oil is returned to the

gallery inside the engine to the rocker arm shaft where the

crankcase. The oil pump extends down into the oil pan, but

surplus drains back into the crankcase. Oil at the camshaft

is positioned far enough away from the bottom of the oil

idler gear support lubricates the idler bushing and passes

pan that any residue that settles to the bottom is not picked

through the transfer pump cam oil feed line to lubricate the

up by the screened inlet.

transfer pump cam and the injection pump idler gear.

From the oil pump, the oil passes through the oil supply

Oil pressure is automatically regulated to 40-65 psi (275-

pipe to the oil filter assembly. The oil filter assembly con-

448 kPa) by a spring-loaded relief valve. Oil pressure may

tains the oil pressure relief valve, the bypass valve and oil

exceed this setting when the oil is cold.

filter. The oil is forced through the oil filter into the main oil galley. The main oil galley supplies oil to the main bearings,

Oil pressure is affected by oil temperature, viscosity and

camshaft and camshaft idler gear support.

engine speed. Subnormal oil pressure usually may be traced to lack of oil, faulty relief valve, loose oil connections or

Oil passes from the main bearings, through drilled passages

worn bearings.

in the camshaft, to the connecting rod bearings. The tappets

1

2

3 4 6

5

1.

Rocker Arm Shaft

3.

Crankshaft

5.

Oil Filter

2.

Camshaft

4.

Oil Pump

6.

Low Oil Pressure Switch

Lubrication System

65

Lubrication System (Rev. 5/01)

BLANK PAGE

66

Fuel System

The fuel system used on the Thermo King di and se 2.2 die-

The increased pressure moves a piston which in turn

sel engine is manufactured by Diesel Kiki, Ltd. under

advances the timing of the engine. The banjo fitting also

license from Bosch. It uses a high pressure distributor (VE

acts as a transfer point for overflow fuel coming from the

type) injection pump. Unlike the C201 in-line injection

nozzles and a point to bleed air from the system.

pump, the governor, timing device, fuel supply pump and

Injection pump leakage, injection nozzle overflow and

other components are located within the pump itself.

excess fuel from the fuel filter orifice are then all sent back to the fuel tank in the return line.

Operation

NOTE: Do not switch banjo bolts from one injection pump

Fuel is drawn from the fuel tank by the transfer pump. The

to another. When calibrating an injection pump, use the

transfer pump delivers fuel to the primary filter and then to

banjo bolt that belongs to that pump. Using a different

the secondary filter. The outlet fitting at the secondary filter

banjo bolt after calibration can affect engine timing.

contains an orifice. The orifice controls the pressure in the fuel system be allowing a certain amount of fuel to return to

Maintenance

the tank. Filtered fuel then passes through a line from the

The fuel system is relatively trouble-free, and, if properly

fitting between the secondary filter and the orifice, to the

maintained, will usually not require major service repairs

injection pump. Fuel enters the injection pump and then a

between engine overhauls.

fuel supply pump. Pressure in the injection pump is set by a relief valve located in the output of the fuel supply pump

Contamination is the most common cause of fuel system

and a small drilled orifice in the outlet banjo bolt on the top

problems. Therefore, to ensure best operating results, the

of the pump. Excess fuel is recycled back through the fuel

fuel must be clean and fuel tanks free from contaminants.

supply pump. As engine speed increases so does the internal

Change the fuel filters regularly and clean the fuel strainer

injection pump pressure.

on the inlet side of the transfer pump.

1

3 2

8

4

7

6

5 Supply Fuel Line

Return Fuel Line 1.

Water Separator

4.

Bleed Screw

7.

Injection Pump

2.

Injection Line

5.

Transfer Pump

8.

Fuel Filter

3.

Injection Nozzle

6.

Hand Pump

Box Type Filter Fuel System

67

Fuel System (Rev. 5/01)

2

1 7

3

8

6 5

4

AGA224

1.

Fuel Filter

5.

Inlet Fuel Line

2.

Injection Pump

6.

Priming Pump

3.

Fuel Transfer Pump 7.

Bleed Screw

4.

Prefilter

Return Fuel Line

8.

Late Style Spin-On Filter Fuel System

68


1 2

3 9 10 5 8

4 7 6

1.

Injection Nozzle

6.

Inlet Strainer

2.

Injection Line

7.

Fuel Supply Line

3.

Injection Pump

8.

Fuel Return Line

4.

Hand Pump

9.

Secondary Fuel Filter

5.

Transfer Pump

10.

Primary Fuel Filter

Early Style Spin-On Filter Fuel System

69


Whenever the fuel system is opened, take the following pre-

3.

cautions to prevent dirt from entering the system: 1.

Cap all fuel lines.

2.

Work in a relatively clean are whenever possible.

3.

Complete the work in the shortest possible time.

Tighten the bleed screw and screw the hand pump handle back in.

4.

Start the engine and observe the engine run for a few minutes. If the engine fails to start, or starts but stops in a few minutes, repeat the procedure.

Hand Pump

Any major injection pump or nozzle repairs should be done

The hand pump requires little service and is usually

by a quality diesel injection service speciality shop. The

replaced as an assembly. If the hand pump does not appear

necessary service equipment and facilities are not found in

to be working, check the following items before replacing

most engine rebuild shops because of the large investment

the pump:

required. The following procedures may be done in the field:

1.

Fuel level in the tank.

2.

Possible air leaks in fuel supply line from the tank.

3.

Remove the hand pump and examine the inlet check

1.

Bleed air from the fuel system.

2.

Fuel tank and filter system maintenance.

3.

Hand pump replacement or repair.

4.

Transfer pump replacement or repair.

5.

Injection line replacement.

6.

Pump and governor adjustments.

the inlet hose into the container.

7.

Pump timing.

The hand pump should draw diesel fuel to the transfer

8.

Nozzle spray pattern testing and adjustment.

valve. 4.

check valve. To test a hand pump, install it on the transfer pump if it was removed. Place a container of diesel fuel about 3 ft (1 m) below the hand pump and place

pump in 60 strokes. If the hand pump requires more than 120 strokes, it should be replaced.

Bleeding the Fuel System If the engine runs out of fuel, repairs are made to the fuel system, or air gets into the system for any other reason, the fuel system will have to have the air bled out. Proceed as follows: 1.

Loosen the bleed screw on top of the injection pump about one turn.

2.

Remove the outlet adapter, and examine the outlet

Unscrew the hand pump handle and manually prime the fuel system until air bubbles are no longer visible in the fuel coming out of the bleed screw.

70


Injection Pump 2

Injection Pump Cover O-Ring Replacement 1

The di 2.2 and the se 2.2 injection pump cover O-ring seal can be changed without removing the injection pump from the engine. The proper seal can be purchased from a Zexel (Diesel Kiki) dealer under part number 146600-1000. 1.

Prior to disassembly thoroughly clean the pump with suitable cleaner and blow it dry.

2.

Remove the fuel lines and intake manifold.

3.

Remove the fuel return hose from the pump cover and

4 3

tie it back out of the way. 4.

Remove the fuel inlet hose from the pump and tie it out of the way. If the hose is left connected fuel may continually siphon from the filters into the pump.

5.

1.

Fuel Outlet

3.

Fuel Inlet

2.

Two Piece Lever

4.

8D wire & Diode

Remove the 8D wire and spike diode connector from

Injection Pump

the fuel solenoid terminal. The diode must be removed from the terminal to allow the seal to slipped over the 6.

7.

Note the alignment of the marks on the throttle lever in

pump cover.

relation to the mark on the throttle shaft. They will not

Remove the throttle control rod from the throttle lever.

always be in perfect alignment but will usually be within a few degrees. The throttle shaft must be

NOTE: There are two versions of the throttle lever on di

replaced in the same position when reassembled.

2.2 injection pumps. Early style pumps have a one piece throttle lever. Later pumps have a two piece lever. If you

8.

Use a pliers to unhook the return spring from the throt-

are working on a pump with a one piece lever go directly

tle lever. Again note the position of the spring. It can be

to step #9. If you have a two piece lever you may have to

reassembled at least two different ways. The correct

remove the throttle lever to get access to the inner gear end

way is to have the straight end down on the pump cover

pump cover screw. Use the following steps.

and engaged against the boss on the high speed limiting screw. The hook is then placed in the hole in the middle of the lever. 9.

Remove the throttle lever nut and lock washer and remove the throttle lever and spring. Note that there is a thin steel washer located between the throttle lever and the throttle shaft boss. It usually stays with the lever and falls out later.

71


10. Remove Remove the four pump pump cover retainin retaining g screws. screws. The low

NOTE: Do not remove the spring from the throttle shaft

speed screw may have to be moved to access the inner,

linkage. The O-ring can be easily installed without discon-

distributor end screw.

necting the spring. If for any reason the spring is discon nected, it should be reinstalled with the open end of the loop facing down.

1

2 1

2 1.

Alig lignment ent Dowel

2.

DO NOT remove NOT remove spring Pump Cover

13. Remove Remove the old O-ring O-ring from from the cover by by cutting cutting it or sliding it up around the cover.

1 1.

Hold Ho ld pump pump cove coverr down down

2.

Remo Re mov ve thi this s scr scre ew la last

Pump Cover Retaining Screws NOTE: The pump cover is spring loaded and should be held down firmly until the last screw is removed. The outer, outer, gear end screw should be removed last. 11. Carefully lift lift the injection pump cover until the dowel

1.

pin in the cover is disengaged from the pump body.

Cut old O-ring

O-ring Removal

Slowly let the full load lever push the cover forward until it is no longer spring loaded. 12. Tip the the pump cover cover up on on the edge of of the pump pump body as far as possible.

72


NOTE: If the dowel pin is not resting on the pump b ody it

14. Install Install the new new O-ring by slidin sliding g it down around around the

is still resting on the full load lever. You may have to move

cover and placing it in the slot.

the cover around slightly to index it. Level off the cover and push it down and forward against the spring tension until the dowel drops into it’s bore. Doing it correctly may take a little practice. Push down against the spring pres sure and check to see that the entire pump cover is con tacting the pump body. If not, the the cover is still still not installed correctly. correctly. 18. Install Install the outer, outer, gear end end mounting mounting screw first first to hold the cover in place, then install the three other screws.

O-ring Installation 15. Loosely Loosely place place the cover cover on the pump pump as shown in the the following photograph. The cover should be parallel with the pump body. NOTE: Because the full load screw is resting resting on top of the full load lever, lever, the dowel pin will be slightly above the sur face of the injection pump. 16. Slightly Slightly elevate elevate the front front of the the pump cover cover and then then slide it back until it contacts the fuel solenoid.

Installing Retaining Screws Pump Cover Alignment 19. If you had to remove remove the throttle throttle lever, lever, reinstall reinstall the 17. Just before before the cover cover reaches the the fuel solenoid, solenoid, the full

return spring and lever. Make sure to index the lever

load screw should drop off the full load lever. The

with the shaft using the marks. The low speed stop

dowel pin should now be touching the pump body.

screw may have to be backed all the way out to get clearance for correct alignment

73


.

1

2

4.

Remove Remove the the boot boot from from the the high high speed speed solen solenoid oid..

5.

Pull the plunger plunger out out of of the the solenoi solenoid d enough enough to loosen loosen the jam nut. An allen wrench placed in the hex opening in the face of the plunger will keep the plunger from turning. Turn the plunger eye bolt clockwise to increase the speed and counter clockwise to decrease the speed.

6.

Replace Replace the the control control rod, start the unit and check check the speed. When the speed is correct, tighten the jam nut and replace the solenoid boot. NOTE: If the correct speed cannot be set close enough with half turns of the eye bolt, use the allen

1.

Corr Co rrec ectt Spr Sprin ing gS Sto top p

2.

Inco Incorr rrec ectt Spr Sprin ing g Stop top - DO NOT USE

wrench to turn the plunger in smaller increments.

Low Speed

Spring Stop Position

1.

Loosen Loosen the the jam nut on on the low speed speed adjustment adjustment screw. screw.

20. Reinstall the the fuel inlet inlet line, the outlet line and the throt-

2.

Run the the unit unit with the speed speed solenoi solenoid d de-enger de-engerized. ized.

tle rod on the pump.

Adjust the screw to the speed desired.

21. Readjust Readjust and secure secure the low low speed screw screw..

3.

22. Reinstall Reinstall the the 8D wire and the the spike spike diode on the the fuel

Shut Shut the the unit unit off off and retigh retighten ten jam nut. nut.

Maximum Speed

solenoid.

The maximum speed limit screw is adjusted and sealed at

23. Start Start and run the engine engine and check check for fuel fuel leaks. leaks. Read-

the factory. It should not need adjustment. If it has been

just low speed if necessary. necessary.

tampered with, it should be adjusted to give .020 in. (0.5 mm) clearance to the pump control lever when the unit is in

Injection Pump Speed Adjustment

high speed.

To determine the correct speed settings for a particular Thermo King unit, consult the maintenance manual for that

Full Load Adjusting Screw

model. As a general rule, most transport units run at 13001350 rpm on low speed and 2200 rpm on high speed. Most

The full load screw is reset and sealed at the factory and

generator sets run at 1800 rpm (single speed). There are

should not need adjustment. If the adjustment has been tam-

exceptions to this general rule such as some Super II units,

pered with, the injection pump should be recalibrated by a

so it is important to check the proper maintenance manual if

diesel injection service shop.

there is a question.

In an emergency, a rough setting for the screw is approximately 0.61 in. (1.55 mm) from the tip of the screw to the

High Speed 1.

Start Start the unit unit and chec check k the the high high speed speed rpm. rpm.

2.

Shut Shut the the unit unit off. off.

3.

Remove Remove the control control rod rod from from the high high speed speed solenoid. solenoid.

face of the nut.

74


NOTE: The adjustment of the full load screw can damage the engine and may void the warranty.

1 2

3

1. Maximum Speed Limit (factory set) Nozzle Tester

2. Full Load Adjusting Screw (factory set) 3. Low Speed Adjustment 2.

Adjusting Speeds

Test for buzzing. Close the hand valve and operate the handle several times rapidly with full strokes. If the nozzle is operating properly, there will be a buzz and a

Injection Nozzles

high whistle.

Testing

NOTE: If the pumping speed is increased, the buzzing

1.

Attach the nozzle assembly to the nozzle tester P/N

stops and the oil then leaves the nozzles with a hissing

204-290.

noise.

WARNING: Keep hands away from spraying

3.

Check the spray pattern. Operate the pump at about 1

nozzles. The pressure of the fuel spraying from

stroke per second and observe the spray pattern. There

the nozzle can penetrate into flesh destroying

should be four distinct uniform patterns, one out of

tissues and may cause blood poisoning.

each quadrant of the nozzle.

75


Disassembly and Inspection Correct

1.

Top View

Clamp the nozzle body in a vise with the nozzle nut up. Carefully remove the nozzle nut, nozzle seat and nozzle valve, locating pins and spacer. Keep the nozzle seat and valve together as a set. NOTE: If the nozzle seat turns with the nozzle nut the locating pins may be broken. Soak the nozzle assem bly in a cleaning solution such as carbon cleaner before removing the retaining nut.

2.

Take the nozzle boy out of the vise and remove the push rod, spring and adjusting shim(s).

3.

Clean all the parts in clean filtered fuel using a nozzle cleaning kit P/N 204-283.

Incorrect

NOTE: Do not use any abrasive materials to clean the nozzle seat, nozzle valve, the spacer, or the mating

4.

surfaces of the nozzle body.

Test the opening pressure. Open the hand valve so the gauge will register. Slowly force the handle down and

4.

determine the opening pressure. The nozzle should

essary.

buzz distinctly during spraying. Opening pressure should be 2633 to 2704 psi (18142 to 18632 kPa) and

Assembly and Opening Pressure Adjustment

all the nozzles should be within 70 psi (482 kPa) of

1.

each other. If the opening pressure needs adjustment,

Clamp the nozzle body in a vise with the nozzle nut end up.

the nozzle must be disassembled and the adjusting 2.

shims changed. Refer to the nozzle assembly and open-

Place the adjusting shim(s) in the nozzle body. If the opening pressure of the nozzle needs to be adjusted

ing pressure adjustment section. 5.

Inspect all parts for damage or wear and replace as nec-

change the shims(s) accordingly. Add shims, or change

Test for dripping. Open the hand valve and operate the

to a larger shim to increase the pressure. Remove shims

pump slowly to build the pressure up to within 300 psi

or change to a smaller shim to reduce the pressure.

(2067 kPa) of the opening pressure. there should be no 3.

dripping until the pressure is within 300 psi (2067 kPa0

Place the spring, push rod and locating pins in the nozzle body.

of the opening pressure. 4.

NOTE: during the testing procedures, there should be

Place the spacer over the locating pins and check the alignment.

very little if any fuel flowing from the tube. If enough fuel is leaking past the nozzle valve and seat to flow

5.

out of the fuel return tube during testing, the nozzle

Submerge the nozzle valve and nozzle seat separately in clean, filtered diesel fuel. Place the nozzle valve in

should be repaired or replaced.

the nozzle seat while holding the seat. Pull the valve out approximately .25 in. (6 mm).

76


Release the valve, it should slide into the seat by itself. Turn the valve in the seat and repeat several times. If the valve does not consistently slide smoothly into the seat, replace the nozzle valve and seat set. NOTE: When installing a new nozzle valve and seat set, thoroughly clean them in solvent to remove the anti-rust compound and then follow the above proce dures before installing the set. 6.

Carefully place the nozzle valve and seat set on the locating pins and the spacer. Check the alignment. Install the nozzle nut and torque to 29 to 36 ft-lb (39 to 49 N•m)

7.

Attach the nozzle assembly to a nozzle tester and test the opening adjustment, carefully disassembly the nozzle, change the shim(s) as required, and assemble and test the nozzle to obtain the correct opening pressure. NOTE: Adjust opening pressure so that it is 200 psi (1379 kPa) more than what specifications call for 2833 to 2904 psi (19,534 to 20,023 kPa). The injection nozzles push rod, spring and adjusting shim need to “seat” themselves. The “over-adjustment” of opening pressure will compensate for the seating of the push rod, spring and adjustment shim. If further work is needed, send the nozzle to a diesel injection service shop.

77


1

7

2

3 8 4

9

5

6

1. Adjusting Shim

4. Spacer Rod

7. Fuel Return Tube

2. Spring

5. Nozzle Valve and Seat

8. Nozzle Body

3. Push Rod

6. Nozzle Nut

9. Locating Pins

78


Transfer Pump The transfer pump is driven by a cam on the injection pump idler gear and forces fuel through the filter to the injection pump. When the system reaches design fuel pressure, this pressure prevents the spring from returning the piston until some fuel is used. The pressure then drops allowing the spring to return the piston, this maintains a fairly constant system pressure. The transfer pump should maintain 18 to 20 psi (124 to 138 kPa) fuel pressure at the injection pump in a spin-on filter fuel system, and should maintain 7 psi (48 kPa) in the box type filter fuel system.

Transfer Pump Inspection 1.

2.

3.

4.

Remove the transfer pump and depress the tappet with a finger. If tappet cannot be depressed fully, it indicates

1.

Hand Pump Assy. 11.

Plug

that the push rod, tappet or the piston is seized or stick-

2.

O-Ring

12.

Eyebolt

ing.

3.

Spring

13.

Tappet

If the tappet can be depressed fully and the hand pump

4.

Valve

14.

Guide

operates properly, the piston may have excessive clear-

5.

Eyebolt

15.

Pin

ance.

6.

Gasket

16.

Roller

Remove the plug screw.

7.

Adapter

17.

Snap Ring

NOTE: The plug screw is under slight spring pres-

8.

Piston

18.

Washer

sure.

9.

Spring

19.

Plug

Examine the piston for wear. The clearance between the

10.

Gasket

piston and body is 0.001 (0.025 mm). 5.

Exploded View of di 2.2 Transfer Pump

If the clearance is excessive or piston or body is scored, the pump will require replacement.

1

1.

Cam Lobe

Beginning of Fuel Delivery

1

1

1.

Cam Lobe Fuel Intake and Delivery

Transfer Pump Operation

79

1.

Cam Lobe Control of Fuel Delivery


1.

Pump Assy.-hand

7.

Adapter

13.

Tappet

19.

Plug

2.

O-Ring

8.

Gasket

14.

Guide

20.

Piston

3.

Spring

9.

Plug

15.

Pin

21.

Spring

4.

Valve

10.

Not Used

16.

Roller

22.

Gasket

5.

Bolt-eye

11.

Gasket

17.

Ring

23.

Plug

6.

Gasket-eye bolt

12.

Bolt-eye

18.

Washer

Exploded View of se 2.2 Transfer Pump

80


Transfer Pump Testing Assemble the transfer pump and perform the following tests.

1

Air Pressure Test Cap off the outlet, screw in the hand pump handle and tighten. Apply pressure to the inlet at 28 psi (193 kPa) and submerge the transfer pump in clean diesel fuel. A small amount of air, 1.8 cu. in. / min. (30 cc/min), should be leak-

2 10

ing between the push rod and pump body. Any other air

3

leaks should be repaired.

9

Suction Test Installing the transfer pump and disconnect the fuel solenoid. 1.

Connect a fuel hose approximately 6.6 ft (2 m) long to

8

the inlet adapter. Keep the hand pump handle screwed all the way in. 2.

Position a container filled with diesel fuel about 3.3 ft

4

(1 m) below the level of the transfer pump, and place the loose end of the hose into the diesel fuel in the con-

5

tainer. 3.

6

7

Turn the engine over with the starter. The transfer pump should pump fuel out of the outlet within 60 revolutions.

1.

Hand Pump

6.

Fuel Strainer

2.

Small Air Leak Normal

7.

Filter

3.

Outlet

8.

Inlet

4.

Check Valve

9.

Check Valve

5.

Push Rod

10.

Pump Body

If more than 120 revolutions are required to pump fuel through the pump, repair or replace the transfer pump.

Cutaway View of Transfer Pump

81


Installation and Timing of Injection Pump Currently there are three generations of 2.2 engines in service and two different types of injection pumps and timing marks. NOTE: You must verify which type of engine you have before proceeding with the installation on the injection pump. First Generation di 2.2 Engines a.

produced through April 1992

b.

have coarse mesh timing gears

c.

14° Timing Mark

14° Timing Mark First & Second Generation Engines

Second Generation se 2.2 Engines a.

produced April 1992 through December 1998

b.

have coarse mesh and fine mesh timing gears

c.

14° Timing Mark

Third Generation 2.2 EPA / Low Noise Engines

1.

a.

beginning 1998

b.

serial number begins with “E”

c.

have fine mesh timing gears

d.

6° Timing Mark

Remove the rocker arm cover and rotate the engine in the direction of rotation, clockwise from the front, until both push rods on No. 1 cylinder are loose and the

6° Timing Mark

injection timing mark on the flywheel lines up with the

Third Generation Engines

pointer in the bellhousing. NOTE: First and Second Generation engines have

NOTE: The injection timing mark is a line scribed in

14° timing marks, while Third Generation EPA/Low

the flywheel. The 14° mark is approximately 1-3/8 in.

Noise engines have 6° timing marks.

(35 mm) from the TC m ark and the 6° mark is approximately 5/8 in. (1.6 mm) from the TC mark. The injec tion timing mark has no identification markings other than the scribed line.

82


First and Second Generation Engines On First and Second Generation Engines only, an alternative method is to remove both access covers from the timing gear cover and rotate the engine in the direction of rotation until the “O” on the cam g ear lines up with the pointer in the cam gear access hole, and the injection timing mark lines up with the pointer in the bellhousing.

1

The engine now has No. 1 cylinder at the fuel injection mark of its compression stroke. 1.

Before installing the pump, rotate the pump gear until the “O” marked on the gear is approximately in the 10 o’clock position as you face the gear end of the pump.

2.

1. Timing Mark

Install the pump in the engine lining up the “O” with the timing mark cast into the access hole.

3.

Injection Pump Timing Mark

Install and torque the injection pump mounting bolts.

1

3

2

1.

Injection Pump Gear Access Hole 3.

2.

Cam Gear Access Hole

Access Cover

Timing Gear Marks

83


Third Generation EPA/Low Noise Engines

2.

Rotate the engine backwards, counterclockwise from the front to approximately 3.5 in. (89 mm) from the TC

On Third Generation EPA/Low Noise Engines only, the

mark on the flywheel.

“O” on the cam gear and injection pump gear will not line up with the pointer. The “O” on the cam gear will be

3.

Adjust the dial indicator to zero. The pump plunger

approximately 1-1/2 notches from the pointer, and the “O”

should be at the bottom of its stroke. To check this,

on the injection pump gear will also be approximately 1-1/2

rotate the engine back and forth no more than 0.5 in.

notches from the pointer. The “O”s will be positioned as

(13 mm). The dial indicator should stay at zero.

shown.

4.

Rotate the engine forward, clockwise from the front, to the injection timing mark.

5.

The dial indicator should now show the pump plunger is at 0.020 in. (0.5 mm) from the bottom of its stroke and ready to inject fuel.

6.

If the timing position is not correct, loosen the bolts on the front flange of the pump. NOTE: The di 2.2 has two bolts on the front flange. The se 2.2 has three bolts on the front flange.

7.

If the dial indicator shows a figure larger than 0.020 in. (0.5 mm). rotate the top of the pump away from the engine until the dial indicator reads the correct value. A smaller figure requires the pump be turned in towards the engine until the correct value is reached. Tighten the bolts and lock the pump in position.

8.

counterclockwise from the front, beyond the injection

Third Generation Engine Timing Mark

timing mark and then clockwise back to the injection timing mark. The dial indicator should now be at 0.020

Checking the Timing using a Dial Indicator 1.

Perform a final check by turning the engine backwards,

in. (0.5 mm). Slight adjustments may be necessary.

Remove the 8 mm timing bolt located at the back of the

9.

injection pump between the injection lines. Install the special dial indicator, P/N 204-589 in its place. Make sure the adapter bottoms out slightly on the pump housing. Insert the dial indicator into the adaptor until the dial indicator contacts the pump plunger. Preload the dial indicator at least 0.080 in. (21 mm) and lock the dial indicator in place by tightening the locking collar.

84

Remove the dial indicator and replace the timing bolt.

Electrical

Gear Reduction Starter (Hitachi)

Starter Solenoid The starter solenoid actuates the shift lever that forces the

Construction and Operating Principle

pinion assembly to mesh with the ring gear and holds it in

The gear reduction starter consists of a motor that develops

position while cranking. Contacts in the starter solenoid

starting torque, a gear reduction pinion assembly and a

conducts electrical power to the motor. A series winding

starter solenoid. The starter solenoid energizes the motor

actuates the shift lever and closes the contacts. A shunt

and shifts the pinion assembly to mesh with the engine ring

winding holds the switch in that position until the starter

gear. The smaller armature shaft gear meshes with the larger

switch is opened.

gear of the pinion assembly, producing the speed reduction

Pinion Assembly

and torque increase.

The pinion assembly has an over-running clutch that allows

Motor

the pinion shaft to turn freely after the engine ring gear

The motor is a series wound dc motor, meaning the arma-

spins the pinion faster than starter motor speed.

ture and field coil windings are wi red in series.

Troubleshooting To identify faults in the starter system, refer to the troubleshooting flow chart.

1 3

2

7 5 1. Armature

7.

Gear Case

2. Field Coil

8.

Shift Lever

3. Brush

9.

Torsion Spring

4. Rear Cover

10.

Starter Solenoid

5. Pinion Shaft

11.

Armature Shaft Gear

4 6

6. Pinion Clutch

1.

Start/Preheat Switch

5.

Field Coil

2.

Series Coil

6.

Battery

3.

Shunt Coil

7.

Solenoid Contacts

4.

Armature

Reduction Starter Construction

Reduction Starter’s Electrical Circuit

85

Electrical (Rev. 5/01)

NO

Engine does not start.

1

Does starter rotate? NO YES

Does engine tun over with continued cranking?

Is there anything unusual about the meshing of the pinion and ring gear teeth? NO

Check the pinion clutch for damage. Replace if necessary. YES

•

Check pinion motion.

•

Check the shift lever for deformation, the torsion spring for excessive wear and the pinion for free movement.

•

Check the condition of the pinion and the ring gear teeth.

NO (or turns slowly)

Does the flywheel rotate?

YES

•

Check the battery’s charge, the

tery.

battery terminal connections •

and condition. YES

Repair connections and clean corrosion off bat-

NO

Check the consistency of the Check fuel system.

Charge or replace bat-

tery terminals.

YES

oil in the engine. Is it thick? Change engine oil.

NO

Does the engine turn over if

YES

Repair or replace starter.

the starter is replaced? NO

(or rotation is slow)

Inspect the inside of the engine.

Starter does not stop if start

Repair or replace start switch,

CAUTION: If any abnormality

switch is turned off.

starter relay or starter solenoid.

is found, immediately discon nect battery negative terminal.

Troubleshooting Chart

86


1

Check the battery’s charge, the battery

NO

terminal connections and condition.

•

Charge or replace battery.

•

Repair connections and clean corrosion off battery

O.K.

Check and repair wiring and connections NO

Can you hear the starter solenoid operating?

between

starter

solenoid and starter switch. Check and replace if necessary:

YES

Remove starter from engine. Does starter turn under no load conditions

•

Starter switch

•

Starter solenoid

•

Check brushes. If worn, replace.

NO

by connecting battery positive terminal to

•

M terminal of starter and battery negative

If there is no wear on the brush, replace the motor

terminal to the starter case?

(including the field coil and armature).

YES

The starter solenoid contacts are faulty. Replace.

Troubleshooting Chart

87


Starter Disassembly and Overhaul 1.

3.

Lift the brush springs with a brush spring lifter tool so that the negative brush is separated from the surface of

Remove the 8 mm terminal nut from the starter sole-

the commutator. Then remove the brushes connected to

noid, and disconnect the stator lead wire.

the field coil windings. Remove the brush holder assembly. 4.

Remove the armature from the stator.

5.

Remove the stator from the gear case.

1

1.

8 mm Terminal Nut

Removing Terminal Nut 2.

Remove the 4 mm bolts from the rear cover, remove the 5 mm through bolts from the motor, and remove the rear cover.

Removing Brush Holder Assembly

1 2 1.

4 mm Bolts

2.

5 mm Bolts

Removing Rear Cover

Removing Armature and Stator

88


6.

Remove the 6 x 10 mm bolts that mount the starter

8.

Remove the three 4 mm bolts holding the bearing

solenoid. Then remove the starter solenoid from the

retainer to the gear case, and remove the bearing

gear case, and remove the torsion spring .

retainer.

2

1

1 2

3

3 1.

6 x 10 mm Bolts

2.

Starter Solenoid

3.

Torsion Spring

Removing Starter Solenoid 7.

Remove the dust cover and then the shift lever from the

Shift Lever

Bearing Retainer

3.

3.

Gear Case

Remove the pinion assembly from the gear case. Using a slotted screwdriver, remove the pinion stop clip from the pinion while pushing the pinion stop toward the

2

2.

2.

9.

3

Dust Cover

4 mm Bolts

Removing Bearing Retainer and Pinion Assembly

gear case .

1.

1.

1

pinion.

Gear Case

Removing Dust Cover and Shift Lever Removing Pinion Stop Clip 10. Remove the pinion stop and retaining spring from the pinion shaft. Remove the pinion shaft from the clutch assembly.

89


2.

Test for continuity between the “S” and “M” terminals. If there is no continuity, the series coil is open and the

1

2

switch must be replaced.

3

4

1 5 2

1.

Pinion Stop Clip

4.

Pinion Clutch

2.

Pinion Stop

5.

Pinion Shaft

3.

Retaining Spring Disassembling Pinion Assembly

AGA144

1.

Starter Inspection 1.

“S” Terminal

2.

“M” Terminal

Testing Series Coil

The starter solenoid can be tested with an ohmmeter. First, test for continuity between the “S” terminal and

3.

switch body. If there is no continuity, the shunt coil is

Test the continuity of the solenoid contacts, between the “B” and “M” terminals. Press the plunger into the

open and the switch must be replaced.

solenoid to check the continuity. Try this test several times while wiggling the plunger. Roughness or corro-

2

sion may make the continuity of the contacts unreliable; if so, replace the solenoid.

1 1 2

AGA143

1.

Switch Body

AGA145

2. “S” Terminal 1.

Testing Shunt Coil

“B” Terminal

2.

“M” Terminal

Testing Solenoid Contacts

90


Brush Holder Assembly 1.

.

Test the brush holder assembly with an ohmmeter. The positive brush holder should show infinite resistance to the plate and negative brushes should have continuity to the plate.

Test Brush Springs Stator Assembly

AEA370

1.

Inspect the stator and field coils for any damage, loose field cores, or signs of overheated field coils such as discolored or burnt insulation. Field coils that show

Testing Brush Holder Assembly

signs of overheating should be replaced. 2.

Measure the length of the brushes. Replace all the

2.

brushes as a set if any brush is less than 0. 35 in. (9 mm)

Check the field coils for continuity from each brush or brush lead wire to the stator lead wire.

on the short side.

1 AEA371

1. Brush

AEA373

Measure Brush Length 3.

Testing Field Coils

Inspect the brush springs for signs of overheating or other damage. Measure the brush spring tension with a spring scale. The tension should be 5.5 - 7.7 lb (2.5 3.5 kg) at the point of contact with a brush sitting on the commutator. Replace the brush springs if necessary

91


3.

Test the field coil insulation. Place an ohmmeter on Rx1000 and check from the stator lead wire to the stator case. The ohmmeter should show infinite resistance. Any continuity indicates bad insulation. NOTE: If one coil is bad all the coils will show conti nuity. Check the coils individually to isolate the bad one.

Measure Commutator Diameter 3.

Using a dial indicator and a lathe, check the armature core for surface distortion, deflection and out of round. Check the commutator for roughness, corrosion and out of round. The maximum deviation is .004 in. (0.10 mm). It may be possible to turn the armature to meet specifications. Clean the commutator with fine sandpaper (500-600 grit). Turn the commutator in a lathe if needed.

AEA373

Testing Field Coil Insulation 2 1

Armature Assembly 1.

Inspect the armature and commutator for any thrown solder, deformed windings, signs of overheating and shaft or gear damage.

2.

Measure the commutator on the brush path. The standard diameter is 1.44 in. (36.5 mm). Replace the armature if the commutator is less than 1.40 in. (35.5 mm).

AGA141

1.

Commutator

2.

Core

Dial Indicate Armature

92


5.

Test the armature for open or shorted coils using a growler. An ammeter or a test light is used to check the current induced into the armature by the growler. Move the test leads from commutator segment to commutator segment while rotating the armature in the growler. An open or shorted coil will show no or low current and will not light the test light. If a coil is bad, replace the armature.

6.

Test insulation of the armature coils. Using a growler, test for current between the commutator segments, test for current between the commutator segments and the core and shaft. An ammeter should show no current and

AEA375

a test light should not light. Using a ohmmeter on Rx1000, there should be no continuity. If the insulation is bad replace the armature.

Clean Commutator 7. 4.

Check the armature bearings. The bearings should be

After turning the commutator in a lathe, check the

smooth and quiet. Replace the bearings if they are

undercut of the insulating material. If the undercut is

rough, noisy or have excessive free play.

less than 0.008 in. (0.2 mm), file it down to 0.20-0.031 in. (0.5-0.8 mm)

2

1

3

Correct AEA377

Testing Armature Insulation AGA142

Incorrect 1.

Insulator

3. Commutator Segments

2.

Undercut 0.020 - 0.031 (0.5 - 0.8 mm) Insulating Material Undercut

93


Pinion Assembly 1.

Inspect the pinion assembly for signs of wear, damage

4.

or corrosion. 2.

Check the bearing. The bearing should be smooth and quiet. Replace the bearing if the bearing is rough, noisy or has excessive free play.

Check the pinion clutch operation. While holding the clutch gear stationary, rotate the pinion shaft. It should turn smoothly in one direction and the clutch should lock in the other direction.

Bearing Check 5.

Check Pinion Clutch 3.

After completing these checks, lightly grease the pinion shaft and assemble the pinion assembly.

Push on the shift lever end of the pinion shaft and see

Starter Reassembly

that the pinion slides out smoothly. Repair any rough-

The reduction starter can now be assembled. Where lubrica-

ness or stiffness. Excessive grease may make the

tion is required, use light grease. Observe the torque specifi-

motion stiff, so only a light coating of grease should be

cations shown below when tightening bolts.

used.

Bolt

Torque

4 mm Bearing Retainer

15 - 20 in.-lb (1.7 - 2.3 N•m)

4 mm Rear Cover

15 - 20 in.-lb (1.7 - 2.3 N•m)

5 mm through

43 - 55 in.-lb (4.9 - 6.2 N•m)

6 mm Solenoid Mount

51 - 72 in.-lb (5.8 - 8.1 N•m)

8 mm Solenoid Terminal Nut 64 - 85 in.-lb (7.2 - 9.6 N•m)

1.

Place the pinion assembly in the gear case. Install the bearing retainer and bolts.

2.

Check Pinion Clutch

94

Install the shift lever, torsion spring and dust cover.


3.

Place the solenoid in the shift arm and gear case, pry

If the motion is outside this range, the solenoid mount-

the pinion forward to aid assembly, install the solenoid

ing must be adjusted as follows:

mount bolts.

First, remove the 6 mm bolts holding the solenoid to

1

the gear case. Do not disconnect the shift lever.

2

Second, rotate the spacer washers to increase or

3

decrease the spacing. Increasing the spacing will decrease the pinion motion. Finally, replace the solenoid mount bolts and measure the pinion motion. Repeat the spacing adjustment until the measurement falls in the specified range.

1.

Gear Case

2.

Dust Cover

3.

Starter Solenoid

Place the stator on the gear case.

6.

Place the armature in the stator and check that the armature shaft gear meshes with the pinion clutch gear.

Solenoid and Shift Lever Assembly 4.

5.

7.

Install the brush holder assembly. Place the brushes in the brush holder and check that the brushes move

After assembly, connect a 12 Volt battery to the sole-

freely.

noid, positive to the “S” terminal and negative to the the “M” terminal. The pinion snaps out into the

8.

engaged position. Measure the additional distance the

Place the brush springs on the brushes and check that the springs hold the brushes against the commutator.

pinion travels when pulled out to its stop. The additional distance should be 0.012-0.059 in. (0.3-1.5 mm).

Brush Spring Tension 9.

If the brush spring tension have not already been checked, measure the brush spring tension with a

Pinion Motion Check

spring scale. The tension should be 5.5-7.7 lb.(2.5-3.5 kg). Replace the brush springs if necessary. 10. Install the rear cover, rear cover bolts and through bolts.

95


Glow Plugs

No Load Test To check the starter specifications, perform the following

Glow plugs heat the combustion chamber to aid in quick

test. However, do not run the test for more than 30 seconds

starting. They are energized when the preheat switch is

at a time. 1.

pressed and when the starter switch is pressed.

Set the starter securely on a test bench and make the The heating element is encased in the stainless steel sheath

connections.

filled with sintered magnesium oxide powder. One end of the heating wire is connected to the center electrode.

1

The glow plugs are connected in parallel so that if one of them fails, the other plugs will remain operative.

2

To check for defective glow plug, remove the bus bar between the glow plugs. Using an ohmmeter, check each plug individually for continuity, dead shorts to ground and for a resistance of approximately 1.8 ohm. Normally, each plug should draw approximately 7 amps.

3

4

1.

Switch

3.

Battery

2.

Ammeter

4.

Voltmeter

Starter Connections 2.

When the switch is turned on, current flows through the starter in a no-load condition.

3.

The no-load current should be less than 140 amps, the voltage should be 11 volts and the speed 3,900 rpm. NOTE: Do not run the starter with no load for more than 30 seconds or damage to the starter will occur.

96

Run In Procedure

Engine Run In

2.

Slowly add coolant into the system until you see cool-

The run in of a rebuilt engine will often determine the oil

ant at the accumulator hose fitting on the thermostat

consumption, power output, and other variables during the

housing, or at the accumulator hose if the hose was dis-

service life of the engine. It is important to run in a rebuilt

connected from the accumulator, or at the bypass hose

engine properly. How an engine will be run in is determined

fitting.

by the type of equipment and the time that is available.

3.

Connect the accumulator hose to the thermostat hous-

Thermo King recommends an engine be run in on a dyna-

ing or the accumulator, or connect the bypass hose to its

mometer if possible.

fitting.

Pressurize the lubrication system of the engine with an oil pressure tank if the engine has been stored for any length of time. This prevents a dry start.

4.

Add coolant into the system until it appears to be full.

5.

Make sure the amount of coolant that goes back into the system is approximately equal to the amount of coolant

All new or rebuilt engines should be run in low speed for

that came out of the system.

the first 10 minutes when initially started. This ensures that 6.

any air is purged from the cooling system and that oil flow

Start the engine and let it run for 1 minute in LOW SPEED, and then shut it off.

is established to all parts of the lubrication system.

Bleeding Air from the Coolant System Air must be thoroughly bled from the block before the

7.

Check the coolant level and add coolant if necessary.

8.

Repeat steps six and seven until the coolant level stabilizes.

engine is started. NOTE: If the engines runs with air trapped in the block,

Dynamometer Run In Procedure

the engine may be damaged. The high water temperature

1.

Pressurize the lubrication system of the engine with an

switch may not protect an engine that has air trapped in

oil pressure tank if the engine has been stored for any

the block. A high water temperature switch is designed to

length of time. This prevents a dry start.

measure the temperature of engine coolant, it cannot

2.

measure trapped air in the block.

of 2-3 hp.

Normally when the cooling system on a di 2.2 or se 2.2

3.

engine is drained, approximately 8 qt. (7.6 l) of coolant

Run the engine at 1400 rpm for 15 minutes with approximately 5 hp load.

drains out. Often when the system is refilled, it appears that about 4 qt. (3.8 l) of coolant fill the system. This happens

4.

because air is trapped in the engine block. Air can be

Run the engine at 2200 rpm for 30 minutes with a 8-9 hp load.

trapped in the block by coolant that remains above the ther-

5.

mostat after the system is drained.

Run the engine at 1400 rpm for 30 minutes with a 5 hp load.

NOTE: Do not start the engine without bleeding the air

6.

out of the block. 1.

Start the engine and run it at 1400 rpm with a light load

Run the engine at 2200 rpm for 10 minutes with a 1012 hp load.

Disconnect the accumulator hose from the thermostat

If time permits, additional run in time is desirable. Vary the

housing or from the accumulator before adding coolant

speed and load in ranges between 3 to 8 hp and 1400 to

into the cooling system. On units without accumulator

2200 rpm ranges.

hoses, disconnect the bypass hose under the thermostat housing.

97

Run In Procedure (Rev. 5/01)

Run In Procedure Without Dynamometer If a dynamometer is unavailable, use the following procedure: 1.

Run the engine on a test stand with no load for approximately 15 minutes in both low speed (1400 rpm) and high speed (2200 rpm). Check the engine for abnormal noises, coolant, fuel, or oil leaks. NOTE: DO NOT run a newly rebuilt engine without a load for a long period of time. This can cause the engine’s oil consumption to be higher than normal.

2.

Mount the engine in a unit and run the unit on high speed heat for 2 hours. Occasionally return the unit to low speed heat to vary the compression pressures and

Engine Test Stand

engine temperatures. 3.

Mount the unit on a trailer and run the unit in high

Valve Clearance Adjustment

speed heat with trailer doors open for 2 to 10 hours NOTE: Remove the wire from the fuel solenoid to prevent

depending on the time available.

the engine from starting and causing personnel injury. 1.

Remove the rocker arm cover. Torque the cylinder head bolts to 63 ft-lb (85 N•m) before adjusting the valves. The valve clearance should be checked after the first 500 hours of engine operation. It is very important that the valves be adjusted to the correct specifications for satisfactory engine operation. Insufficient valve clearance will result in compression loss and misfiring resulting in burned valves and seats. Excessive valve clearance will result in noisy valve operation and abnormal wear of the valves and rocker arms. The intake and exhaust valves are adjusted with the valves closed.

2.

Go Power Dynamometer

The valves are adjusted to 0.016 in. (0.4 mm). When the right gap is obtained, BE SURE to tighten the lock while holding the adjusting screw in position.

98


Turn the engine using a wrench on the front crankshaft

3.

Turn the crankshaft clockwise from the front, until the TC mark on the flywheel aligns with the pointer om the

bolt.

flywheel housing.

1 2

AGA148

1.

Adjustment Screw 2.

Lock Nut

Valve Clearance

Top Dead Center Marks 4.

Wiggle the push rods on the No. 1 intake and exhaust valves. If both rods are loose enough to turn freely, the No. 1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. This is the first adjusting position. If instead, the No. 1 push rods are tight and the No. 4 are loose, the No. 4 piston is at TDC in the compression stroke. Turn the crankshaft clockwise from the front,

AGA114

until the TC mark on the flywheel is aligned. Now both

Adjusting the Valve Clearance

No. 1 push rods should be loose, and No. 1 piston at TDC of the compression stroke.

99


5.

7. BE SURE to tighten each lock nut while holding the

Adjust both valves on the No. 1 cylinder, the intake valve on the No. 2 cylinder, and the exhaust valve on

adjusting screw in position.

the No. 3 cylinder. 6.

8.

Turn the crankshaft one full turn, clockwise from the

Install the rocker arm cover making sure that the gasket is in position.

front, and align the TC mark. This is TDC of the No. 4 cylinder compression stroke. Adjust the No. 2 exhaust valve, the No. 3 intake valve, and the No. 4 intake and exhaust valves.

Front Cylinder Number

Rear

1

2

Valve Arrangement

E

I

Piston in Number 1 cylinder is at TDC on compression stroke.

O

O

Piston in Number 4 cylinder is at TDC on compression stroke.

E

3 I

E

O

O

O

Valve Adjustments and Cylinder Configurations

100

4 I

E

I

O

O

O


Testing Engine Compression

3.

Remove all the glow plugs.

Compression should be checked while the engine is near

4.

Install a compression tester, P/N 204-439.

5.

Crank the engine with a starter and observe the reading.

operating temperature.

An engine in good condition will register 427 psi (2942

Procedure 1.

2.

kPa) or more at cranking speed (250 rpm) using com-

Run the engine until operating temperature is reaching.

pression tester 204-439. Variations between cylinders

Stop engine.

should not exceed 10% of the compressor pressure (Because compression space is small and gauges vary

Remove the wire from the fuel solenoid and loosen all

in construction, readings will vary). The important fac-

4 fuel lines at the injection nozzles.

tor in determining the engine conditions is the variation

CAUTION: The fuel solenoid must be discon-

of compression pressures and hard starting due to lack

nected to prevent fuel from being injected into

of compression.

cylinder which could result in the engine start-

NOTE: If the engine cannot be run, repeat Steps 2, 3,

ing during testing operations.

4 and 5. Compression readings will be 10% lower

The fuel lines must be loosened at the injection noz-

than those of a warm engine.

zles during the test because temperatures and pres sures developed if the engine should fire would destroy the tester. The tester manufacturer will dis claim responsibility for damage resulting from firing.

101


BLANK PAGE

102

Parts Interchange

se 2.2

Injection Pump

The se 2.2 engine is the same as the di 2.2 engine with the

The se 2.2 injection pump and the di 2.2 injection pump

following exceptions:

cannot be interchanged. The se 2.2 injection pump has a

Injection Pump

three bolt mount. The di 2.2 injection pump has a two bolt

Timing Gear Cover (Gear Case Cover)

mount.

Front Plate (Gear Case Cover Backing Plate)

The flange that mounts the injection pump to timing gear

Oil Base

cover and front plate cannot be exchanged because the bolt

Transfer Pump

pattern is different. The se 2.2 flange has five bolts. The di

Flywheel Housing

2.2 flange has six bolts. The timing gear cover and the front

Oil Filter and Oil Filter Base

plate are not interchangeable because of the different (five

Water Pump

or six bolt) pump mounting flanges.

Thermostat Housing Intake and Exhaust Manifolds

The injection pump gear is interchangeable.

The following information should be used as a guideline for

The flange that mounts the injection pump gear is not inter-

interchanging these parts or the se 2.2 and di 2.2 engines

changeable because the bolt pattern has been shifted six

themselves. Refer to Service Bulletin T & T 096 for more

degrees relative to the keyway (see “Gear Mounting Flange

complete information.

Identification” on page 104).

3 2 2

1

3

1

4

4

1. 2.

di 2.2 Two Bolt Mount

3.

di 2.2 Six Bolt Flange

4.

di 2.2 and se 2.2 Gear

1.

3.

di 2.2 Gear Mounting Flange

se 2.2 Three Bolt Mount

di 2.2 and se 2.2 Gear

2.

se 2.2 Five Bolt Flange

4.

se 2.2 Gear Mounting Flange

di 2.2 Injection Pump

se 2.2 Injection Pump

103

Parts Interchange (Rev. 5/01)

Oil Base

NOTE: Using the wrong gear mounting flange will cause problems because it changes the timing by six degrees. It is

The oil base on the se 2.2 engine is designed to be used with

difficult to see the difference in the gear mounting flanges.

a three point mounting system and cannot be used on an

Use the template to identify a gear mounting flange.

engine that will be installed in a unit that has four point

The injection pump, the pump mounting flange, the timing

mounting system.

gear cover, the front plate, and the gear mounting flange must all be the same type. To switch the injection pump from one type of engine to another would require replacing the entire front of the engine except for the timing gears.

Gear Mounting Flange Identification 1.

Place the gear mounting flange on the template with the black painted side facing down towards t he paper.

2.

Line up the center hole and keyway in the flange with the center hole and keyway drawn on the template.

3.

One of the lines on the template will line up with one of

se 2.2 Oil Base

the bolt holes in the flange. This line indicates the type of engine the flange is built for.

Transfer Pump The hand pump on the transfer pump for the se engine is

1

mounted horizontally to clear the front door on the SMX

2

unit. There is no clearance problems on Sentry, Super II, or SB units. Therefore the di 2.2 transfer pump can be used on the se 2.2 engines in these units. There may be some interference problems with the filter minder if an se 2.2 transfer pump is used on an older Super II or SB unit. The hand pump can be moved to a vertical position on the se 2.2 transfer pump by removing the adapter P/N 11-7413 and mounting the hand pump vertically. Exchanging transfer pumps between se 2.2 and di 2.2 engines may also require exchanging or transferring banjo bolts, plugs, etc.

1. di 2.2

2. se 2.2

Gear Mounting Flange Template

104


Oil Filter and Oil Filter Base The se 2.2 engines uses a two stage oil filter that combines a

1

full flow and a bypass filter. The base and the filter can be switched as an assembly. Either assembly will fit on either engine, but the dual element filter will not fit on the full flow filter base and the full flow filter will not fit on the dual element filter base.

1

1.

Remove to Install Hand Pump Vertically se 2.2 Transfer Pump

Flywheel Housing The se. 2.2 flywheel housing can be used on di 2.2 engines. The di 2.2 flywheel housing can be used on se 2.2 engines

2

with the following exceptions: SMX 50 units, Super II units built after June of 1992, and Sentry II 50 units built after September of 1993.

1.

Oil Filter Base 11-5856

2.

Dual Oil Filter 11-3712

di 2.2 Oil Filter and Oil Filter Base

se 2.2 Flywheel Housing

105


Crankcase Breather The se 2.2 crankcase breather can be used on a di 2.2 engine if it is installed as a complete assembly. Adapter P/N 117389 must be installed and drain back fitting P/N 11-5572

1

must be installed in an available post in the oil base. The di 2.2 crankcase breather can be used on the se 2.2 engine if the drain back port in the oil base is plugged.

1 2

1. Oil Filter Base 11-2689 2

2. Dual Oil Filter 11-3712 se 2.2 Oil Filter and Oil Filter Base

1.

Adapter 11-7389

2.

Drain Back Fitting 11-5572

se 2.2 Crankcase Breather

106


Thermostat Housing

Intake and Exhaust Manifolds

The accumulator water return port has been removed from

The se 2.2 intake and exhaust manifolds have been rede-

from the thermostat housing for the se 2.2 engine. The se

signed to reduce the engine width for the SMX unit.

2.2 thermostat housing can be used on di 2.2 engines if the

The se 2.2 intake manifolds can be used on di 2.2 engines.

accumulator hoses are rerouted. The di 2.2 thermostat hous-

The di 2.2 intake manifolds cannot be used on the se 2.2

ing can be used on se 2.2 engines except in SMX units.

engine because the manifold hots the injection pump. The exhaust manifolds are interchangeable between the two engines but they are not easily interchanged between units designed for the other engine because of the exhaust connections.

1 1

1.

No Ports

se 2.2 Thermostat Housing

Water Pump The outlet on the water pump for the se 2.2 engine has been shortened by an inch and the accumulator water hose port has been removed. Units with se 2.2 engines supply water to the accumulator from a port on the rear of the engine head. The se 2.2 water pump can be used on di 2.2 engines if the accumulator water lines are rearranged to the current configuration. The di 2.2 water pump can be used on se 2.2

2

engines except in SMX units.

1. Intake 2. Exhaust se 2.2 Intake and Exhaust Manifolds

1 1.

No Port

se 2.2 Water Pump

107

Isuzu Disel Engine Manual

Recommend Documents