Guidelines Industrial Engineering
KSA-Technopak
Guidelines Industrial Engineering
KSA-Technopak
TABLE OF CONTENTS Page No 1. Industrial Engineering Scope & Significance
4
2. Scope of Apparel Engineering
5
3. The Benefits of Engineering
7
4. Applications Application s of Industrial Engineering
8
4.1. Merchandising 4.2. Production Planning 4.3. Production 4.4. Maintenance 4.5. Quality 4.6. Human Resource 4.7. Production Follow Up 5. Concept of Product Engineering
15
6. Method Study
16
6.1. The Method Study ‘7 Step’ Procedure 6.2. The Principles of Motion Economy 6.2.1. The Principles of Motion Economy as related to workplace 6.2.2. The Principles of Motion Economy as related to design of tools & equipments 6.3. Methods Engineering 6.3.1. Tools for methods engineering 6.3.2. Specific Sewing Room Methods Approaches 6.4. Checklist for Improving Garment Operations 6.4.1. Layout & Relation to other operations 6.4.2. Handling of Garments & Parts 6.4.3. Machines, Equipments etc. 6.4.4. Sewing Operation 6.4.5. General 6.5. Good Sewing methods Checklist – Description of Motion 6.6. Engineering Methods Improvement 6.6.1. Big Methods
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6.6.2. Little Methods 6.6.3. Benefits of methods Improvement 7. Time & Motion Analysis
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7.1. Technopak Time Study Procedure 7.2. Elements & Break points 7.3. Notes on Time Study 7.4. Rating 8. Performance Development
41
8.1. Capacity Study 8.1.1. What is Capacity Study 8.1.2. How to make a Capacity Study Study 8.2. Follow-Up 8.2.1. Bundle by bundle follow-up 8.2.2. Other forms of follow-up 8.2.3. Uses of Operator Follow-Up
Annexure Annexure Annexure 1:- Time Study Study Sheet Sheet
47
Annexure Annexure 2:- Bundle Bundle by bundle bundle follow up sheet Annexure Annexure 3:- Bundle Bundle Diagnosis Diagnosis Sheet Annexure Annexure 4:- Filled format of Operation Operation Bulletin Bulletin Annexure Annexure 5:- Filled format of methods methods description description Annexure Annexure 6:- Capacity Capacity Study Sheet
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1. INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING – DEFINITION & SIGNIFICANCE The truth is that engineers and engineering mean many things to many people. In our discussion on engineering, we want to talk about the branch of engineering known as Industrial Engineering and, more specifically, Industrial Engineering as it relates to the apparel industry. Before we do this, however, let's see if we can define some basic terms and concepts that will make our discussion more meaningful. Engineering is difficult to boil down into a simple definition, but for our purpose here let's use the following: Engineering - a science by which the properties of matter and the sources of energy in nature are made useful to man. Now let's go one step farther and define Industrial Engineering. Let's define Industrial Engineering this way: Industrial Engineering: Engineering : the engineering approach applied to all factors, including the human factor, involved in the production and distribution of products and services. Now that we have arrived at a definition of Industrial Engineering, let's talk about what things are done by an Industrial Engineer. Let's refer to these as the scope of this job.
1. Study, measure, and improve the way individuals perform their jobs. 2. Design and install a better system of coordinating the jobs assigned to individuals into a group effort. 3. Specify, predict, and evaluate results obtained. From this we can, perhaps, oversimplify things for the purpose of understanding Now let's go one step farther and define Industrial Engineering. Everybody will agree that a simple definition of Industrial Engineering is: - A logical way to find out: out:
The best way to do something
The time required to do it
The way to measure results
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2. THE SCOPE OF APPAREL ENGINEERING The two steps of finding the best way to do a job and then timing to find out how long it takes, are referred to as Motion Study and Time Study. Engineers are taught to do the Motion Study first, as any time study data on incorrect motions is not of much value. Some uses of Apparel Engineering are: 1.
Quotas and piece rates
2.
Costing: By knowing how long it takes to perform a job, the total time and cost for manufacturing a product can be determined. Determine sales price.
3.
Manpower Planning: By knowing how many units one person can produce it can be determined how many people are needed to produce a given volume.
4.
Machine Requirements: The number of machines required can be determined by knowing the output from one machine.
5.
Production Planning: Time study enables us to measure the capacity of a plant to produce. Decision as to how much volume to load into a plant can be made.
These are only a few of the common uses of Motion and Time Study. As we can now see, the information obtained is useful far beyond just setting quotas and piece rates. As we have already mentioned, Motion and Time Study is the most common function associated with an apparel engineer. But what are some of his other duties? Let's list some of the other things we might find an apparel engineer doing: 1.
Plant Layout The location of machines and equipment to provide the best work flow.
2.
Production Flow System Determine the best way to move work from job to job (individual pieces, tied bundles, on trucks, etc.)
3.
Machines and Attachments What machines are the best for a given job? What attachments simplify the job?
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4.
Pay Systems Deciding the best way to pay people for their work effort. (Straight time, piecework, split incentive, group incentive, straight time bonus, etc.)
5.
Operator Performance Responsibility for operators achieving expected performance levels.
6.
Operator Training Responsibility for program of training new employees.
7.
Production Control System Design system of measuring and controlling production flow through plant.
8.
Cutting Room Engineering jobs in cutting room for incentive plan. Also might include program to increase material utilisation.
9.
Quality Control Design program to measure and control quality of workmanship in plant.
10.
Distribution Engineer warehouse and shipping facilities.
11.
Payroll System Design payroll procedure to handle pay system and generate necessary cost reports.
12.
Others Plant safety, maintenance, supplies.
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3. THE BENEFITS OF ENGINEERING 1. Work Simplification One of the main benefits of almost any engineering effort is that it makes work simpler to perform. This holds true for operators, supervisors, and top management. When an engineer analyses any area of work, he does so with the thought in mind. Do not be misled about into thinking, however, that work simplification means people always will be doing less work. They may, in fact, do more work but within the same amount of time as before. Because work has been simplified, people's ability to produce is increased. 2. Increased Productivity The ability to produce more within the same amount of time is a company's insurance for survival. This ability means that the company can now accept more work. It means that costs can be lowered by avoiding overtime. It means that fixed costs can be spread out over more units of production. It means that profits Improve. 3. Increased Profits When a company's profits increase, everyone involved is in a better position. Owners and stockholders prosper. Management and supervision are rewarded for their performance. Money is available to do more for the operators. A company is able to expand which creates more Jobs. 4. Increased Earnings Most engineering projects not only increase company profits, but also result in higher earnings for employees. Most companies are willing, and in fact eager, to share with its employees the financial gains that are available through engineering.
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4. APPLICATIONS OF INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING The roles and responsibilities of the industrial engineering department are not just limited to timing operators and making operation bulletins as it is only a part of the job. The I.E function can contribute significantly to improvement in working and productivity of almost all the departments of apparel manufacturing. Let us discuss few of the activities of various sections of apparel manufacturing which can be associated with industrial engineering: 4.1 Merchandising In merchandising section the Industrial engineer can work closely in following: a) Product Analysis•
Determine the optimum method of construction to achieve required finished product efficiently.
•
Establish the operation sequence (Operation bulletin).
•
Specify the equipment type and work aids to be used
Operation Bulletin is an important tool used for product analysis. Operation bulletin is a documented form of sequence of operations in a product. It contains all the information about the machine required and the total no. of operations, total no. of operator required. Operation bulletin contains the standard times for each operation. Operation
bulletin
also contains some other parameters as follows:
Output (pieces per day)
Target efficiency
Minutes per day
Total standard time
Total no of work places
In simple way we can say that operation bulletin is a record of •
Equipment type
•
Machine attachments
•
Workplace engineering aids
•
Standard time for each operation
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It can be extended to include •
Hourly/ period targets for each operation
•
Manpower Requirements
•
Equipment Requirements
It should cover all operations that can be directly related to single unit of a product e.g. •
Spread and cut
•
Sew including manual operations
•
Finish and pack
The operation bulletin is a fundamental planning tool used for many functions such as •
Capacity planning
•
Methods engineering
•
Line planning
•
Performance measurement
•
Manpower planning
•
Investment appraisal
•
Incentive payment
•
Factory loading
The operation Bulletin should be developed at the earlier stage of product development. b) Costing•
The first stage is to calculate the SMV of the garment
•
To calculate the production cost for that particular garment by multiplying the total SMV of the garment with the average cost incurred by the factory to produce one SMV.
4.2 Production Planning Production planning is an essential prerequisite to production control. It involves management decisions on the resources that the firm will require for its manufacturing operations and selection of these resources to produce the desired goods at the appropriate time and at the least cost. Production planning is defined as, “the technique of foreseeing or picturing ahead, every step in along series of separate operations, each step to be taken in the right place, of
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the right degree and at the right time, and each operation to be done at maximum efficiency.” Production planning provide a line for effective, balanced flow of product, incorporating line and individual (operation) productivity standards. The end product of production planning efforts is the formulation of production plans. The plans are formulated in light of specified future period. The plans are to be implemented in the light of the estimated cost and agreed policies •
Plant capacity can be calculated by I.E dept so that planning can book order as per the available capacity.
•
I.E can assist in better planning by helping in better style allocation to different units or lines.
•
I.E can formulate an efficiency/performance build-up for a particular style based upon the work content or past performance. This can inform the planning dept that a particular line will take how many days to produce a specific quantity of a style. This will help the planning dept to plan the availability of resources and material in advance.
4.3 Production
Industrial engineering is a key part of a production process. One of the basic functions of engineering is to get facts. These facts may be in form of a time study, the engineer has made or cost report the engineer has designed. So we can say that the basic need for engineering is the need for management information. Work-in-Progress (WIP) control-
WIP is made up of all garments and their parts that are not completely finished. For example a bundle of shirts that has everything attached but has no bottom hem. There are two cost areas that can be reduced if WIP is controlled: •
Investment in inventory- Inventory is money invested in raw materials. When we don’t move the goods through the plant quickly we are affecting cash flow directly.
•
Ability to reduce the production cycle- By having low inventory between operations, garments usually have less waiting time and go through the production cycle in less time. Large inventory levels between operations keeps goods waiting longer to be processed. This increases the overall throughput time.
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Low throughput time permits better co-ordination between sales and production. It also permits a quicker turnaround on which improves cash flow. Low cycle times give manufacturers the ability to handle multiple styles. Buyers are looking for manufacturers that can meet production schedules, that can handle multiple styles, and since they want to invest as little as possible in inventory, manufacturers that can handle low inventories. Only factories that work with low WIP will be able to sell their services. Managing WIP:
i)
Production planning- This requires planning from marketing and sales to determine what will sell and what needs to be produced and when. This provides the basis to determine how many operators and machines will be needed. I.E can calculate the required resources to any style and block the capacity for this style at a specific efficiency build up.
ii)
Trims control- Trims are buttons, zippers, labels, thread, elastics, and so on. A cut should enter the production line only when someone has verified that all the trims needed are available. An updated inventory of trims should be kept. A missing label could halt a 12,000 unit cut. Holding the 12,000 units in inventory is not acceptable and could lead to other problems.
iii)
Production Build-up- Careful consideration should be given to loading the production lines. If you feed into the line more product that can be processed you will overload the line with work that will just sit stagnant. I.E can provide figures in terms of production to be expected from any line which can help in feeding control and thus managing the WIP.
iv)
Balancing- Even if you load the line based on its capacity, you might find the inventory accumulating due to an unbalanced production. Absenteeism and turnover can greatly affect the line’s balance. A change in style and irregular feeding are two other factors that can put a line off-balance. To keep a line balanced you need information on the inventory levels.
While allocating
operator to the operation, the skill requirement for that operation should be kept in mind. To help regain balance in an unbalanced situation industrial engineer can use Utility operators, operator transfers and overtime as the last option. v)
Cut Flow Control- In order to keep control over WIP and to keep the cycle times low you need to have cuts go as close as FIFO as possible. For this reason strict control must be placed on the tracking of cuts as they flow through the production floor.
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The industrial engineering is very useful in:
a. Standardisation- You can appreciate the need for standard convocations in managing your department. Think of confusion that would result if each operator on a job performed his or her work differently from anyone else. Suppose quality specifications changed every day so that what passed yesterday rejected today. Effective supervision is impossible without standardisation of methods, equipment; and conditions. Engineering helps to standardise. b. Production Scheduling- In order to run your department efficiently, you need a firm schedule of production. Suppose there was no way of knowing how more work your section could handle. Do you think that there would be much of that someone could guess exactly right as to how much work to load in? Of course not! In order to schedule work accurately, someone needs to know how long it takes to go through each operation. Engineering data helps to make this decision. c. Fair Payment of Employees- In order to pay employees fairly, we need to know the value of the work they produce, Since part of engineering function is to measure work. d. Prevention of Chaos- Any attempt to run a department without standardised conditions, without a production schedule, and without fair payment to the employees is doomed to chaos and failure.
So main production functions of engineering are: a) Develop detailed production methods, from detailed manual moments to major decisions on technology. b) Documents all the methods using manuals, computer based system as appropriate. c) Justify all changes based on analyses of the work content in the operation, taking account of skill requirements d) Define the appropriate WIP level and develop WIP measuring and control techniques.
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4.4 Maintenance Proper maintenance leads to better capacity utilisation of same asset, avoiding thus the investment in addition facilities. So far industries have a tendency to neglect maintenance function, thinking it be a not so important job, however necessary. It has been taken just for granted. Plant maintenance is important and inevitable service function of an efficient production system. It helps in maintaining and increasing the operational efficiency of plant facilities and thus contributes of the revenue by reducing the operating cost and increasing the quality of quality of the production 4.5 Quality Quality is an asset, which may be offered to the potential customer of a product. There are two aspects of quality, which contribute to the ultimate quality of the product. Quality of design is the first aspect, which depends on the type of materials used, specs specified by the buyer, method of production, knowledge of the design and skill level of the person. The degree to which this quality is achieved in production that is the quality of conformance is the second aspect. Industrial Engineering can help converting quality specifications into technical parameters to ensure that quality requirements are met with during the manufacturing process. I.E helps in selecting the equipments and method of the job so as the final product conforms to the specifications.
4.6 Human Resource a. Manpower Planning- I.E can calculate the manpower required to perform a specific job at a certain performance level. Once the work content of any job is analyzed by I.E dept, the next step is to find out the resources required to complete that job. This principle can be applied successfully especially on the production floor where work content of each job is measured using time study techniques. The manpower can also be calculated as per the capacity of the plant using standard ratios like Man to Machine ratio. The number of people for a factory having x number of machines can be fixed through this ratio (South Asia standard is 1.8 : 1). b. Skill Matrix- Skill matrix refers to the database of available worker skill in the factory. The workers’ skill is analyzed on different jobs and based upon his/her performance on a particular job a grade is given. This grade defines the level of performance that operator can achieve on that specific job.
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This matrix is used in 2 ways: •
While allocating workers to a job as per the skill requirement of that job.
•
To analyse the skill availability and distribution through out the factory. This can be compared with the skill requirement for a particular time period and shortage/excess skill availability to achieve at the training requirement. This shortfall in availability of any skill can be overcome by conducting a specific training program or through recruitment also.
•
Skill matrix helps in allocating right person for the right job which helps in achieving desired performance level.
c. Performance Measurement- For measuring the performance of any individual first step is to define the targets and second step is to develop performance measuring tools. An industrial engineer can help in setting up of measurable goals and targets, which could be time standards for an operator and key performance indicators for middle & senior management. Next step is to set up systems and define a methodology to capture the performance on regular basis and analyse the results. d. Training- Industrial engineering should be responsible of working on a scientific recruitment methodology for workers so as to check the basic skills are already present in the selected personnel. The training methodology for these trainees should target towards efficient and rapid learning with proper control tools in place. This training could be as per the results of the skill matrix to train people on skills which are not available at present but are required on regular basis or in near future.
4.7 Production Follow up "Follow up" means that someone "checks and Stays with" something until the desired results have been achieved. Many worthwhile plans and projects have failed because someone did not follow up. So for the purposes of this training, follow up means to stay on top of something until the desired results are achieved." Uses of operator follow up: There are a number of uses for operator follow up: a. Improve Performance (Motivate) In many cases, operators are not producing as much as they can. They have no particular problems, but are just not giving it the effort to be a 100 percent operator. Follow up in this case is a matter of motivation. The person doing the follow up should
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not only show the operator that she can do well, but should also make her want to continue to do well. Most people who are capable will perform well under follow up. And once they have performed well for several days or a week (or maybe more) they get used to this type of performance (and earnings) and then tend to stay there. b. Prove Job Quotas Perhaps the most common use of follow up (at least by engineers) is to prove a new quota. In other words, the quota will be proved if the operator performs well when compared to the new quota. Very often operators have a psychological resistance to change. It is essential to get the operators to overcome this psychological barrier, and that can be done through follow up and showing the operators that changes can be made satisfactorily. c. Spot Troubles Occasionally, there seems to be no logical explanation as to why an operator is not performing. Follow up in this case can uncover problems that need to be solved such as machine delay, work flow, small bundles, too much personal time, etc.
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5. CONCEPT OF PRODUCT ENGINEERING LAB The product engineering lab is the heart of all research and development works in
the apparel manufacturing. The product engineering lab caters to all departments with special emphasis on production department to provide low cost measures to improve the overall working or to provide solution to any problem in specific. The role of the production engineering lab is as follows: 1. To study all forthcoming styles and analyse the sequence of operation suggested by industrial engineer to check for any improvement in the equipments, process flow, sequence of operations, folders & attachments, work aids for achieving better productivity & quality with low cost of production. 2. To coordinate with engineers working on floor to discuss the problems faced during production and deviation in the suggested and actual results and to provide timely solutions for these problems. 3. To work on continuous improvement program for developing new methods, folders/attachments, work aids. 4. To get involved in the product during the sampling stage itself to suggest better manufacturing techniques and to anticipate the potential troubles that could come during production. Product engineering lab should suggest a solution for these troubles as in some case approval from merchandiser or buyer is required to change the construction and seam/stitch types. 5. To work closely with product development cell on converting the designing attributes into engineering attributes 6. Product engineering lab should also suggest solution to quality issues. 7. The lab should keep a track of latest machineries and advancement in the field of apparel manufacturing and suggest new machines and production techniques for efficient production 8. The industrial engineer in the Product Engineering lab should be able to allocate the requirements on resources and also advise the production planning on the possible targets which can be achieved – taking into account the past performance on previous styles.
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6. METHOD STUDY Industrial Engineering, which is often substituted by the term Work Study has 2 fundamental parts
Work Study
First
Then
Method Study
Work Measurement
Simplify the task (or eliminate it) ‘Engineer the operation’ Reduce the inherent work content taking account of the skill required to perform the task set
Measure the work content in the task How long should it take a trained and motivated ‘standard’ operator to perform the task
Productivity Gain
In this course we will cover Method Study first and then Work measurement - The ‘how to’ and then the ‘How long’
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6.1 The Method Study ‘7 step’ procedure 1
The work to be studied Select
2
Objectives Define
3
Relevant information and data Record
4
Relevant information and data Examine
5
The improved method Develop
6
The improved method Install
7
The improved method Maintain
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6.2 The Principles of Motion Economy The effectiveness of a motion pattern is determined by The Principles of Motion Economy The most important of these are:
Use of the Human Body The Workplace Design of Tools and Equipment
Finally, remember the big picture. All methods improvements have a cost, but some cost far more than others Think of methods improvements as
Big Methods
Or
Little methods
It’s free!!!!!
The highest productivity is achieved when we:
• • • • • • •
Reduce the Number of motions Reduce the distances moved Reduce precision Reduce eye-shifts Simplify grasps Toss dispose rather than place dispose Make the best use of both hands
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• •
Encourage rhythm Promote natural posture and movement
6.2.1 Principles of motion economy as related to the workplace 1. There should be a definite and fixed place for all tools and materials. 2. Tools, materials and controls should be located close in and directly in front of the operator. Boxes for parts as in the elastic and tabs example, label holders on the machine head and turning attachments between machine head and the operator on the edge of the table are examples. Tables to the left of the needle are often best cut away to allow trucks to be moved as near as possible to the needle. 3. Gravity feed bins and containers should be used to deliver material close to the point of use. 4. "Drop deliveries" should be used wherever possible; example: a. Gravity feed bins for pieces such as hooks and eyes, zipper slides, buttons, etc. 5. Materials and tools should be located to permit the best sequence of motions, for example: a.
Right angled layout of tandem presses with disposal rail between them and pick-up opposite the disposal with room for operator to turn and move in a straight line between the two.
6. Provision should be made for adequate conditions for seeing. Good illumination is the first requirement for satisfactory visual perception. This is a specialist subject on its own but good fluorescent general lighting and needle lights are commonly accepted practice in sewing rooms. 7. The height of the workplace and the chair should be arranged so that alternate sitting and standing at work is easily possible. This is not generally possible on sewing operations but inspection tables and other manual operations can be set at the correct height (1" to 3" below elbow for alternate sitting and standing). 8. A chair of the type and height to permit good posture should be provided for every operator; example: a. All seats should be adjustable to suit different heights.
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6.2.2 Principles of motion economy as related to the design of tools and equipment 1. The hands should be relieved of all work that can be done more advantageously by a jig, a fixture, or a foot operated device; example: a. b. c. d.
Foot pedal operated clamps on stackers Foot operated controls on a needle positioner. Knee operated needle positioner. Foot pedal operated pocket turning attachment which pushes a blade into the comer of the pocket.
2. Two or more tools should be combined wherever possible; example: a.
Attachments already mentioned which perform two operations at once.
3. Tools and materials should be pre-positioned whenever possible; example: a.
Suspension of hand iron over buck.
4. Where each finger performs some specific movement, such as in typewriting, the load should be distributed in accordance with the capacities of the fingers; example: a.
The forefinger is the strongest and finger controls such as steam controls on irons and solenoid actuators are best positioned so that they are in fact operated by the forefinger.
5.
Handles such as used on cranks and large screwdrivers should be designed to permit as much of the surface of the hand to come into contact with the handle as possible. This principle is of minor importance in sewing room work.
6.
Levers, crossbars and hand wheels should be located in such a position that the operator can manipulate them with the least change in body position and with the greatest mechanical advantage. Ibis principle applies particularly to the design of machines and one can think of many controls which do not obey this rule, such as reverse levers. Incidentally, there are now available foot and elbow operated reverse levers which show that the principle is in fact being applied as machine design improves.
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Fundamental questions about sewing operation 1. Is this operation necessary ? 2. Should this operation or portions of the operation be combined with another operation? 3. Is the operation performed in the correct sequence? 4. What sewing machine attachments or work-aids are needed? 5. Will the operation yield satisfactory levels of quality? 6. What type of training curve will the job yield? 7. What material usage factors are affected by the job? 8. What principles related to the usage of the human body should be taken into account? 9. What considerations on space and indirect labour requirement (helper) apply?
6.3 Methods Engineering This topic involves methods engineering at the individual workplace. It is important to note that methods engineering is greatly influenced by the basic sewing room design. The use of a transporter for example can sometimes limit workplace refinement. For this reason, it is necessary to plan methods and sewing room design simultaneously so that the correct trade-offs between effective individual operation methods and the realities of the business objectives are chosen. Machinery selection must, of course, be related to methods engineering. Also, methods standardisation is an absolute requirement for accurate work measurement which will be discussed in the next section. For purposes of this discussion we shall assume the sewing room design is correct and that we have selected the best machine for each individual operation in the sewing room. Before considering specific methods for a job, a series of fundamental questions should be asked about the operation. Once these fundamental questions have been resolved, detailed methods engineering can begin. In this regard, there are several basic industrial engineering tools which are often helpful. 6.3.1 Tools for Methods Engineering a.
Process Charting
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For methods analysis, charting techniques are available. Multiple activity charts (Gang Process) are used where a crew of operators work on the same operation or assembly line. Man-machine charts are used to analyse the operator’s activity in relation to the machine. Micro-motion studies and charting on a Micro-Motion Study Simo Chart is another approach. For the typical sewing operation, the use of a simple left hand right hand chart describing the motions of each hand and the time value is often adequate. In short, it is usually helpful to make a detailed examination of the existing motion path utilised and process charting forces one to do this.
b.
Principles of Motion Economy
Once we have formally analysed the basic motions involved, it is possible to apply the laws of Motion Economy. These rules have been researched extensively by Professor Ralph M. Barnes of the University of California. Since approximately 80% of typical operation time in sewing involves handling to and from the machine, it is critical that the basic motions used are sound. An application of principles 1 and 3 would be the pick up of a pocket and facing one with each hand simultaneously. c.
General Classification of Hand Motions
One important principle of motion economy relates to the classification of hand motions. These are categorised as follows: (1) (2) (3) (4) (5)
Finger motions. Motions involving fingers and wrist. Motions involving fingers, wrist and forearm. Motions involving fingers, wrist, forearm and upper arm. Motions involving fingers, wrist, forearm, upper arm and shoulder.
The law states the lowest classification is usually preferred since it requires the least amount of time and effort, and produces less fatigue. An example of the use of this principle involves picking up of a front from overhead shelf. This effectively reduces motion class to (3) versus class (5). d.
Precision
Another technique is to reduce precision in the required finger motions by use of such devices as edge guides and label dispensers as well as sewing tolerances of the stitch line.
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e.
Kinesthetic Sense
A final fundamental technique involves Kinesthetic Sense. it is generally true that a person can reach to a location on his body much more effectively than to some inanimate object away from his body. An example is touching the end of your nose versus the tip of your tie. Because of this, it is often helpful to position garment parts in the operators lap for pick-up or dispose. Another example would be a shoulder pick-up.
6.3.2 Specific Sewing Room Methods Approaches Having discussed the general industrial engineering methods tools relevant to sewing room methods analysis, we would now like to discuss some specific considerations for the apparel workplace. a.
Table Cut-off or Extension
This can be to the side near or front of machine. The reason is to get the work closer to the needle and reduce the class of motion required. An example would be a clamp truck brought right up to needle where the left end of table has been cut off flush with the end of machine bed. b.
Raising of Machine
On some jobs raising the table level is effective. This permits maximum use of a waterfall dispose. It also permits the operator to work from mobile devices such as a clamp truck or rolling racks. An example would be final ticket tacking to tail of coat hanging on rolling rack and after final press. c.
Special Work Aids
These are work aids which are not available from an equipment supplier such as a specially designed ticket holder. In many cases they will reduce the precision required in the finger motion. d.
Chutes and Mobile Carts
Bundle handling and clip and stack elements can often be eliminated by leaving work in a sewn chain between operations in a chute or mobile cart. Fly serging (in trousers) might be an example. e.
Special Pick-up Shelves
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A simple overhead shelf or box for pick-up can often permit simultaneous pick-ups & reduce the required class of motion. Eg, fronts & backs on a shoulder join operation. f.
Table Cut-Out
Sometimes a hole can be cut in the table top so that work can be slid into a sunken box for disposal. An example would be closing front pockets on pants. g.
Close Location of Parts to Needle
While this is obvious, it is often overlooked. h.
Disposal Configuration
This should be traced from operation to operation to insure that an advantage can be gained by disposing in a particular configuration for the next operation. i.
Pick Up and Position Without Re-grasp
Many operators will unconsciously re-grasp the material rather than move straight to the needle. This can add significantly to the time required. j. Folding or Matching of Parts En Route to Machine Again, an obvious but often overlooked technique. k.
Simultaneous Motions
This can often reduce and dispose elements by up to 50%. l.
Threads Broken During sewing or Other Element
Where precision is not required during the sewing element, it is often possible to snap thread and dispose to rear while sewing. m.
Use of Foot or Knee Operated Devices
An example is a foot activated scissors knife to cut binding tape on dress bottoms. n. Clamping Work for Waterfall Dispose The dispose element can sometimes be eliminated by this technique.
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This is not a complete list of possible sewing methods improvements; however, it does demonstrate application of most of the basic IE principles. You will note that some of these are basic and subtle. We often distinguish between "big methods" and "little methods." Cutting off a table top and clamping the work is a big method improvement obvious to all. Eliminating unnecessary re-grasping en route to the needle is a little method. Many manufacturers underestimate the tremendous gains to be made by emphasising sound "little methods." In our experience these often contribute substantially to operator effectiveness.
Summary The preceding comments have shown that there are fundamental industrial engineering principles which when translated into specific apparel methods techniques reduce cycle requirements and operator fatigue. Many companies spend a lot of time looking for machines which will reduce cost in the sewing room. This is proper; however, there is often an even greater potential to be gained from common sense methods improvements. Of course, this means getting out on the floor and working with and training sewing machine operators and too often this is avoided. There is nothing more impressive than to walk through a sewing room where operators are employing good fundamental methods. It usually means that the company has a proper sense of priority on how their direct labour RUPEES are being spent.
6.4 Checklist for Improving Garment Operations 7.4.1 Layout and Relation to Other Operations (1)
Would it simplify work if this operation were performed sooner or later relative to others?
(2)
Is this operation best located relative to preceding and succeeding operations?
(3)
Is this operation absolutely necessary (consider design changes that might eliminate it)?
(4)
Would it be less work if this job were combined with others? Or subdivided itself
(5)
Are parts, tools, and equipment located near as possible to where needed?
(6)
Are garment parts and bundle best side up, also best side toward operator?
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(7)
Are parts conveniently held?
(8)
Did previous operator dispose best for this operation?
(9)
Is place for disposal convenient and bench, horse, rod, or truck as advisable and located where best suited for purpose?
(10)
Could workplace be made more convenient by cutting off side or rear of table or widening it? Would more table in front of machine assist (often true on long runs)?
(11)
Would elevating machine or tilting it assist (especially on disposal)?
6.4.2 Handling of Garment and Parts (1)
Are parts picked up ready for use without change of grasp?
(2)
Are all possible folding and positioning done as work is moved to location?
(3)
Are both hands used at all times when possible?
(4)
Does one hand dispose as other gets next garment?
(5)
Is jerk of garment for disposal used to break threads at same time?
(6)
Could small items be hopper-fed or in containers where slid off projecting lip (as buttons)?
(7)
Could pick-up be assisted by rubber fingertip, suction devices, etc.?
(8)
Would chutes between operators assist (line style) or is bundle handling preferable?
(9)
Are special bundle ties worthwhile? Can bundles be started out and passed along without tying?
(10) Is most economical bundle size used?
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6.4.3 Machines, Equipment, Etc. (1)
Would needle feed, regular feed, or walking foot machine be better?
(2)
Would chain stitch or lockstitch machine be better?
(3)
Would flatbed, off-arm, up-arm, post machine, tacker, button or buttonhole (possibly used as tacker) serger or combination seamer and serger make any part of job easier?
(4)
Would different feeds, feet, or other parts assist?
(5)
Would automatic thread cutter as one sews off material assist? Or cutter on rear of foot? Or ring cutter on operator's finger?
(6)
Would folder of different type or capacity assist?
(7)
Would guides or stops or marks on machine or table assist in locating or indicating distances to sew?
(8)
Would punch marks or notches in work help?
(9)
Are parts cut to fit so as to make sewing easy as possible?
(10)
Would having parts with edges creased on a folding machine pay? Edges hemmed before sewing on?
(11)
Can operator run several machines of this or other type together?
(12)
Would compressed air operation (as on presses), hydraulic or solenoid operated controls assist?
(13) Is equipment in good operating condition? (14) Is machine speed best possible? (15) Is best number of stitches used? (16) Is height of table, chairs, benches, treadle, and knee-lift correct?
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6.4.4 Sewing Operation (1)
Does operator do all possible folding, thread breaks, picking up next pieces, etc., as sewing?
(2)
Has operator started sewing at best point for ease, fewest thread breaks, most accurate placement, etc.?
(3)
Can operator eliminate any thread breaks, as turning over parts and sewing other side without breaking thread?
(4)
Can operator check other work while sewing?
(5)
Are foot controls used when possible to free hands?
(6)
Should operator run all pieces to bind and then cut apart?
(7)
Can several stitching be run and cut together?
(8)
Could cutting or thread breaks be eliminated or better be done by later operators ?
(9)
Are best types of needles and thread used? Ready-wound bobbins pay?
6.4.5 General (1) Would rest pauses be helpful? (2) Are lighting, heating, and ventilation okay? (3) Are operators trained to work smoothly, avoiding nervous, fidgety motions? (4)
Can part of inspection be done during other operations? Should amount be reduced or increased? Should part be done in process or all at completion? Would percentage check be sufficient?
(5)
Are delays avoided by good supervision of work flow?
(6)
Are sufficient spare machines available?
(7)
Are sufficient utility operators available to compensate for normal absenteeism?
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(8)
Are changes of garment types kept to a minimum (consistent with sales necessities)?
(9)
Is training program adequate to see that improved methods are put into practice and kept there?
(10)
Are incentives adequate and covering all possible operators?
(11)
Would music during work reduce fatigue or boredom?
(12)
Would a stationary or movable clamp reduce bundle or garment handling time?
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6.5 Good sewing methods checklist - description of motion Was Each Item Checked Before Study Yes No I GET (A) Does disposal of previous operation leave parts in best position for get. (B) Locate parts as close to needle as possible. (C) Easiest grasp of parts from an original bundle. 1. Pinch 2. Peel 3. Rub (D) Get part without looking (E) Grasp with hold that will serve for prepare for needle or load folder. (F) Get parts during sewing period. II PREPARE FOR NEEDLE OR INSERT IN FOLDER (A) Assemble parts or fold directly in front of needle. (Not re-position). (B) Insert part in folder with a single push III. SEW (A) Retain original alignment of parts while sewing. (B) Resume sewing after start without pause (Full Speed) (C) Quick turns while sewing. (D) Continuous and full speed sewing (E) Turn needle up using power pedal. (F) Push finished part ahead while sewing IV. DISPOSE (A) Dispose by throwing (B) Dispose without looking (C) Can auto cutter and stacker be used V. (A) (B) (C) (D)
MOTIONS (Use simplest motion classification where possible) Finger only Finger and wrist only Finger, wrist, and lower arm only Finger, wrist, lower arm, and shoulder.
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(E) Body – Finger, wrist, lower arm, shoulder and body only. (F) Are the Laws of Motion and their corollaries being enforced.
6.6 Engineering Methods Improvement There are two separate areas of sewing methods that can be considered in any program of methods improvement for lack of better terms they are called big methods and little methods. Big Methods are the machines, attachments, work aids, table alterations, etc. that can improve an operation. This type of methods improvement is normally associated with the engineering function. Little Methods are the ways the operator handles work, the way she controls the machine while sewing, the way she disposes, etc. This is everyone's responsibility and especially the supervisor's responsibility. Both big methods and little methods are important. In some cases new machinery can double the previous output of units, but on the other hand, the operator's handling and positioning of work is gauged to represent about 80 percent of most sewing operations. So what are called little methods are actually a kg part of the job cycle. In summary, both methods are important and both must be constantly attended to In order to insure maximum productivity from each job.
6.6.1 BIG METHODS A great amount of detail is not necessary here, but it will be beneficial to mention some of the trends in sewing equipment and methods. 1. Automatic Machines Buttonholers Buttonsewers Pocket Setters (Shirts) Contour Seamers Profile Stitching (Cuffs, Collars) Automatic Hemming Label Sewers These machines require less skilled operators as the machines do the most difficult part
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and the person becomes a machine loader. 2. Loading Devices On some sewing operations it is now possible to use devices that can pick up a single ply of material from a stack and load in into a machine (such as a label sewer). These are mostly applicable on operations using virgin bundles (fresh from cutting). 3. Stacking Devices There are many types of automatic stackers now in use (both commercial and shop made) that can clear sewn work from the machine and stack neatly for the next operation. 4. Faster Machines Machines that run efficiently at much greater speeds than before. 5. Folders Folders that remove the need for the operator to manually fold. These can be hinged to swing in and out when needed. 6. Thread Cutters Chain cutters, undertrimmers, choppers, vacuum cutters, etc. 7. Work Aids Bins and chutes that carry work away from machine, shelves and trays for positioning of work. 8. Needle Positioners Eliminate need to operate hand wheel. Can stop up or down. 9. Construction changes in Garment Eliminate operations, simplify operations, etc. 10. Combine separate operations into one Reduce extra handling and bundle time
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examples: Set and close collars on shirts, tack on and tack down loops on pants. These are all examples of Big Methods improvements and will normally result in quota changes on the Jobs affected.
6.6.2 LITTLE METHODS Little methods can be defined as the things the operator does after the big method has been established. This means the way she handles her work (the pick up, positioning, repositioning while sewing, and disposal) and the way she controls her machine while sewing (the speed she uses, the number of stops, etc.). Little methods can be broken down into several areas: 1. The Basics
Correct table height Correct chair height Operator's posture at machine Both feet on treadle 2. The Principles of Motion Economy There are a series of formal principles relating to the most economical ways to perform various motions of the human body. Here is a condensed version that is applicable to sewing jobs:
Motions should be simultaneous Motions should be symmetrical Motions should be natural Motions should be rhythmical Motions should be habitual
3. Specifics of Sewing Jobs Some of the more common things to specifically look for in sewing operations and operators are: Things to Change
Operator idle during machine time on automatic sewing operation Operator unconsciously pit pats garment when disposing Operator unconsciously inspects each garment after sewing
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Operator stops while sewing more than absolutely essential Operator rides knee lift pedal Operator picks up, disposes, and picks up again Operator regrasps or shifts from hand to hand Operator straightens out material that won't be sewn
Things to Encourage
Operator locates parts as close as possible to needle Operator folds anything that needs folding while moving to machine Operator uses simultaneous motions These little methods may not affect the job quotas but they are the type of things that can make or break an operator in trying to reach quota.
6.6.3 BENEFITS OF METHODS IMPROVEMENT There are some very tangible benefits to be realised from methods improvements: Both big and little
Piece rate Savings - Big Methods Operator Earnings - Little Methods Production Increases - Big and Little Methods Reduce Operator Fatigue - Big and Little Methods
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7. TIME AND MOTION ANALYSIS
7.1 Technopak Time Study Procedure Outline Steps
Observe job and analyse to determine the elements define the ‘breakpoints’ record the elements Rate each element to compare with the accepted Standard try to rate every cycle Use the stopwatch to time each element select the elements to enable you to do this This gives the ‘Raw element time’ Average the selected element times This gives the ‘Average element time’ Multiply the average element time by the rating This gives the ‘Basic time’ for the element Add the basic times for all of the elements Make sure the frequencies of the different elements are accounted for In particular ‘bundle handling’ will apply once per bundle This gives the ‘Basic time’ for the operation Add allowances Personal and Fatigue and Machine delay This gives the ‘Standard time’ for the operation
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7.2 Elements & break points
Definition: Elements are the small components into which an operation is divided for time study purposes. They are selected for convenience of observation, measurement and analysis.
•
A break point marks the end of one element and the beginning of the next.
•
The total of all the elements in an operation represents the operation cycle. The cycle time is the time from one point on one garment to the same point on the next garment.
•
Operation are divided into elements for the following reasons: 1. It permits comparison of the same piece of work in different cycles of the operation. 2. Operators may work at different speeds at different parts of the work cycle. Division into elements enables these to be graded accordingly. This point is particularly significant where some of the elements are wholly machine controlled, while in others the operator is the controlling factor. 3. Standard elements, occurring on more than one job, can be identified and used to build up a time for another job.
•
Elements should be: 1. Clearly & fully described on the study sheet (except where they are widely recognised). The break point should be defined if there is any risk of doubt. 2. Select break points so that they can be easily recognised – look for distinctive motion and listen for distinctive sounds. 3. Select with a clear distinction between machine & manual work. 4. Not too short to make timing difficult, not too long to permit operator’s rating to vary, and your attention to wander!
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7.3 Notes on time study •
Be cordial and polite, but do not talk unnecessarily to the operator.
•
Do not stand in front of the operator. Stand in a less discomforting position, such as off to the side or in the back.
•
Never sit down during a time study!
•
Always calculate the time study results immediately after the date gathering.
•
Controversy over rating arises from a misunderstanding of what is being rated. An operator’s output can vary only if: 1. She varies her pace of work. 2. Varies her method. Method includes the motion pattern, no. of motions and intermotional delays.
•
When studying, the observer notes the speed at which the operator performs, and compares this mentally with the concept of the standard pace at which an operator would work if motivated to apply herself and is free from fatigue (100% operator). The engineer should: 1. Have a mental concept of the 100% operator. 2. Recognise deviation from the 100% pace and be able to put a relative value onto it.
•
Do not confuse smooth, fluid motion with slow motion. Don’t mistake rhythmic intensity for fast productive motion.
•
Machine paced operations or elements should be graded 105% to 115%, depending on the effectiveness of the operator in utilising the machine cycle to do their job properly.
•
Before starting a study the engineer must ensure that he understands the correct motion for the operation, and then checks that the operator is using them. The study should not be taken if the motion pattern is incorrect unless the engineer is prepared to compensate for the incorrect motion in his elemental rating or else assures himself/herself that the discrepancy is insignificant.
•
Have the quality supervisor or in-line sampler check the bundle. This ensures that the time standard is not established on an unsatisfactory quality standard.
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•
Non-representative element times are circled. They may arise because: 1. Inclusion of work not identified by the element (such as changing bobbin) 2. Faulty operation of some sort. 3. Missing an element time.
•
Allowances are added to the 100% time determined by the time study to give a Standard allowed time which will permit the average operator to earn a satisfactory wage, provided there is no abnormal delays and she applies herself to her work.
•
Machine delay includes the following: ° Thread changes ° Bobbin changes (on lockstitch) ° Cleaning & oiling machine ° Thread breaks caused by operator, machine & thread ° Needle breaks ° Minor adjustments or changes in folders and attachments. ° First 15 minutes of machine delay The machine delay factor is applied to the total cycle time. This has the effect of giving a delay allowance on the manipulative elements within a machine cycle such as “pick up garment”. On the average this does not present a problem since the percentage has been developed from actual experience.
•
Personal & fatigue allowance covers: º Break periods º Personal needs such as water, rest rooms etc. º Minor conversations º Factors for loss of pace due to getting tired.
7.4 Rating The concept of ‘Rating’ (known in the US as ‘grading’) is fundamental in time study. The ability to rate effectively distinguishes a qualified time study practitioner from a novice.
‘Rating’ is the process used by the industrial engineer to: Definitions:
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‘The rating’ is the numerical value used to denote the rate of working.
In order to rate there must be a defined level of performance to compare with, an ‘average’ level. Time study professionals apply the concept of a ‘ Standard Operator ’
A ‘Standard Operator ’ is
Definitions:
Fully trained and motivated to perform a defined task (having a defined method) and is, by definition average in terms of his or her work-pace. ‘Standard Performance’ is achieved by a standard operator, as long as working conditions are correct.
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8. PERFORMANCE DEVELOPMENT
First
The Method
Then
Quality
Only then
Timings
In a sewing factory, there is always a need to develop the skills and the stamina of the operators. There is a logical way in which this can be done. We develop skills first and then stamina, but the two cannot be separated. We can consider skill to be sound & correct methods. Once we have the method correct, we can start an effective follow-up. 1. Methods*
2. Capacity Study (or single cycle check)
Review methods used and ensure correct motion pattern is in use.
Is there a difference between potential performance (capacity) and actual performance (achieved).The gap is called is called a Capacity Gap.
What is the reason for the capacity gap? 3. Diagnostic bundle study (or Production Study)
4. Bundle by bundle follow-up (or hourly checks)
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Bundle handling?
•
Machine problems?
•
Cutting quality?
•
Repairs (sewing quality)?
•
Personal time?
•
Others
Is there a stamina problem? Can we develop performance gradually day by day?
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* For information on Performance Improvement through Methods, please refer to the ‘Methods Study’ Chapter
8.1 Capacity Study 8.1.1 What is a Capacity Study? When we make a capacity study on an operator, we are measuring the performance she should attain if she continues to work at the same pace and use the same method as observed during the study. This means that at the end of the study we can say That operator has the capacity to be a 120 percent performer" or whatever performance level the study indicates. What exactly do we mean by capacity? Well, it means the same as capability. It means that the operator is capable of achieving the performance measured by the study. Can any of you think of reasons why it would be valuable to know what performance levels your operators were capable of achieving? Here are some reasons why most supervisors find it useful to know the production capabilities of their operators: 1. Check Quotas It is a fairly common occurrence for an operator to complain to her supervisor. I can't make the quota on this Job. It's too high" When a new quota is set, the supervisor may have a group of operators making this complaint. There is often quite a difference between what an operator says she can do and what she can actually do. This is especially true when new quotas are involved. A capacity check can measure what performance the operator is capable of achieving and this can be compared to the quota to test its fairness The supervisor can then answer the operator's complaint based on facts. Can you see how this would be helpful to a supervisor? 2. Motivate Operators One of the main duties of a supervisor is to motivate her operators to perform at the highest level possible. In many cases, however, operators perform at less than their capabilities simply because they do not realise what their full capabilities are or do not realise what it would mean to them to perform at this level. It is not at all unusual in making capacity studies to discover habitual 90 percent o 95
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percent operators having capacities of 110 percent to 115 percent. Why then are they not performing at this level if they have the capability? The word “Habitual" may be part of the answer. Some operators get into the habit of being 90 percent performers. Once it becomes a habit, the operator tends to think that 90 percent is all she can do. Generally speaking, people will do what they think they can do, but usually what they think they can do is less than what is actually achievable. A good example of this is the “Four minute mile". Until 1954, no human had ever run a mile in less than four minutes. For years people talked about a four minute mile and many tried but failed and it was just about concluded that there was a limit to a human's capacity that prevented him from running that fast. Then in 1954, a medical student in England ran a mile in three minutes and 59 seconds to set a new world's record and become the first man to break the four minute barrier. Several weeks later, an Australian ran a mile in three minutes and 58 seconds. Then a German broke four minutes, and then two Hungarians and finally an American. Once it had been done, four minutes was no longer considered difficult to achieve and today running a mile in four minutes is not considered a great accomplishment. A capacity study is a means of showing an operator that she is capable of more than she realises. It shows her with facts. Many supervisors have found capacity studies useful in motivating their operators to higher performance. 3. Measure Section Production Capability By measuring individual operator capacities, supervisors can determine the overall capacity of their sections. The section is simply the sum of the individuals. This is useful to a supervisor in setting production and performance goals for her section. It can give the supervisor and her operators common goals to work toward These things are going to occur regardless of the operator's ability therefore, they are not considered to be a measure of how she is able to perform her job. When this type delay does occur, it will cause the operator to take longer on that particular cycle than she normally does. In making a capacity study, we would circle such a cycle when it occurs and not use it to calculate our average cycle.
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8.1.2 How to make a Capacity Study? •
The capacity study is a 10-cycle study to estimate an operator’s production ability. If the actual production and capacity are different, then follow up studies should be made.
•
During the capacity study, the operator’s average time per cycle to sew her operation is determined. We then assume the operator works at this pace all day and takes the full amount of lost time (machine delay, personal and fatigue time) provided for in the target. We call the time left, after lost time has been deducted, the available sewing minutes. These are divided by the average time per piece to estimate production.
•
Operators benefit from capacity studies only if you spot wasted motions and make suggestions and corrections. Results of every capacity study should be reviewed with the operator.
Allowances: •
Allowances are added to the 100% time determined by a time study to give a Standard Time which will provide the average operator to earn a satisfactory wage, provided there is no abnormal incidence of delays and she applies herself to her work. These are also used while estimating an operator’s capacity. Three categories are recognised: 1. Machine delay 2. Personal and fatigue 3. Incentive
•
Machine delay Delays due to machine stoppage including thread changes, bobbin changes, cleaning and oiling of machine, first 15 minutes of machine delay, thread breaks, needle breaks, minor adjustments or changes in folders, attachments, minor delays caused by attachment etc. The machine delay factor is applied to the total of cyclic elements when the work is largely machining, although not applied to wholly manipulative work such as clipping or turning parts. This has the effect of giving a delay allowance on the manipulative elements within a machine cycle such as ‘pick up garment’. On the average, this does not present any problem since the percentages have been worked out from experience. However, a job with an unusually high or low percentage of pure work in
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the cycle would merit a discretionary adjustment to the factor, and the engineer is expected to be alert for these. •
Personal and fatigue Some aspects of normal required personal time can be quantified, but fatigue itself cannot be measured. It is also impossible to separate personal and fatigue time because of their inter-relation with one another. This allowance came into being through guesswork and trial based on general use. History and experience have proven these allowances to be reasonably correct for a great many varying situations. Personal and fatigue allowance covers break periods, personal needs such as water, rest rooms, minor conversations etc.
It should be noted that the machine delay factor is applied to 100% time, and the personal and fatigue time (with the incentive factor added) is applied to this to give the SAM.
General comments: 1. Use of your time: • Follow-up is not simple clocking of cycles. This does nobody any good. • Follow-up time is valuable. While timing a 2.0 SM operation use the time between the breakpoints to: Look closely at the method Encourage the operator Time the elements of the job 2. How to get effective studies • Capacity studies record single cycles without Bundle handling Thread breaks Bobbin & colour changes • •
Interruption When you conduct a study on a ‘long’ cycle operation (say more than one basic minute), you can lose a complete cycle, because of one thread break. You can ‘save’ and use much of this time if you have broken the job to suitable elements, then thread breaks would affect only one of the elements. You would still have the remaining cycles which can be used.
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3. Other follow-up tools In any situations requiring follow-up support you will need to identify and choose the best approach. The tools described for follow up (capacity study, diagnostic and follow-up study) are not the only ones you can use. Be creative in your follow-up. E.g., use graphs to plot cycle times and actual performance against target. Record the times for the particular elements of a job – plot them to show improvements; record single cycle one at a time and plot them; use visual aids to the full, and always explain the results to the operator.
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Annexure 1: Time Study Company:
Dept.:
Operation
Op. No.
Study By :
Product
Machine
Operator
Overall Rating
Material
Attachments & fittings
SPI
Sheet _____ Of _____ Date
Cycles Observed
Seam Length
Elements R E A D I N G S
Rea d
Act. Tim e
Rati ng
Rea d
Oc cs. per
Basi c min
G mt
per gmt
Act. Tim e
Rati ng
Rea d
Act. Tim e
Rati ng
Rea d
Act. Tim e
Rati ng
Rea d
Act. Tim e
Rati ng
Rea d
Act. Tim e
Rati ng
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Tot al No. of val ues ove rall rati ng ave rag val ue
Element Nos
Basi c min s per occ.
% MD
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min per gmt
% RA
Calc SM per
% poli cy
Gmt
All ow
Installed SM per gmt
uni t
Times
mi ns
47
Prod.
hrs
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Annexure 2: Bundle by Bumdle Follow Operation:
Operator:
Time
Time used
From
To
a
b
Bundle Pieces for Bundle c=b-a
Trainer: Standard Time
Efficiency
Cum.
for Bundle
Cum.
for Bundle
Cum.
d = c cum.
e
f = e cum.
g=e:c
h=f:d
Date: Lost Times
Per so nal
Ma ch ine
O th er s
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25
Comment:
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Notes
Annexure 3: Bundle Diagnosis
Bundle Diagnosis Sheet Operator :
Date :
Operation :
Time :
Total SAM
BM
Mc. Delay %
Bundle Size
BHT
PF %
BHT
Single Cycle Elements 1
2
3
4
MD 5
PF,Misc
Comments
6
Tgt/pc 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 Average Total Tgt. % Achvd Prepared by: Remarks/Conclusion:
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Annexure 4: Operation Bulletin OPERATION BULLETIN FOR
skirt
Parameters Last revised by:
S.
SS
STYLE#1
skirt
D at e o f l as t re vi si on :
2 0/ 09 /0 6
Minutes per Day
480.00
Total SAMs Est AMs
40.44
Pieces per M/c
12.26
Output (pieces per day)
760.00
Line Eff
71.68%
DL
67.00
Target Operator Efficiency
0.75
Operators - Sewing
62.00
No. of W orkplaces
68.00
Helpers - Sewing
5.00
OPERATION
SAM
NO.
Sew
M/C
ACT.
MACHINE
M/C ATTCH.
NO. OF
Y/N
TIME
TYPE / CLASS
FOLDERS/GUIDES
OPER. CALC
30.33
D.L. ALLOC
NO. OF
NOTE
M/Cs
Target piece req./ oper
REQD
PREPARATORY
Bow loop joining
0.25
Y
0.33
1
Bow Loop making
0.13
Y
0.17
1
Bow loop other side stitch
0.13
Y
0.17
Bow making
0.50
N
0.67
Table
Pintuck making
2.50
Y
3.33
Pintuck iron
0.38
N
0.51
pintuck panel marking
0.37
N
pintuck panel cutting
0.70
pintuck panel stay stitch
1 2 1
5
0.53
1.00
1.00
0.27
0.00
0.00
0.27
0.00
0.00
1.06
1.00
0.00
SNLS
5.28
5.00
5.00
Table
0.80
1.00
0.00
0.49
Table
0.78
1.00
0.00
N
0.93
Table
1.48
2.00
0.00
0.40
Y
0.53
SNLS
0.84
1.00
1.00
Ruffle join
0.14
Y
0.19
5-TH O/L
0.30
0.00
0.00
Ruffle baby overlock
1.10
Y
1.47
5-TH O/L
2.32
2.00
2.00
Ruffle gather
0.58
Y
0.77
SNLS
1.23
1.00
1.00
Lining Zipper side Krook cut and turn
0.54
Y
0.72
SNLS
1.14
1.00
1.00
Lining left and right side over lock
0.43
Y
0.57
5-TH O/L
0.91
1.00
1.00
Lining zipper portion serging (over lock)
0.27
Y
0.36
3 T O/lock
0.57
1.00
1.00
Zipper Facing bottom run stitch
0.11
Y
0.15
SNLS
0.23
0.00
0.00
W asit band run stitch
0.24
Y
0.32
SNLS
0.51
1.00
1.00
1st panels (pintuck and back )overlock on right side
0.29
Y
0.39
5-TH O/L
0.61
1.00
1.00
2nd panels right side overlock join (Front and back)
0.29
Y
0.39
5-TH O/L
0.61
1.00
1.00
2nd panel gather
0.42
Y
0.56
SNLS
0.89
1.00
1.00
Pintuck panel and 2 nd panel attaching
0.74
Y
0.99
SNLS
1.56
2.00
2.00
1 st seam overlock
0.15
Y
0.20
3 T O/lock
0.32
0.00
0.00
Shell left side join
0.61
Y
0.81
SNLS
1.29
1.00
1.00
Shell zipper side serging (overlock)
0.61
Y
0.81
3 T O/lock
1.29
1.00
1.00
Ruffle attach on skirt
1.44
Y
1.92
SNLS
3.04
3.00
3.00
Zipper attach on shell (one side)
0.50
Y
0.67
SNLS
1.06
1.00
1.00
Zipper attach (Pointed / placket making) on other side
0.85
Y
1.13
SNLS
1.79
2.00
2.00
Facing attach on Zipper shell assembly
0.47
Y
0.63
SNLS
0.99
1.00
1.00
3rd panel shell right and left side seam join
0.31
Y
0.41
5-TH O/L
0.65
1.00
1.00
3rd panel gather
0.71
Y
0.95
SNLS
1.51
2.00
2.00
3rd gathered panel attach to second panel
0.54
Y
0.72
SNLS
1.14
1.00
1.00
3 rd Gather panel attach to second panels
1.25
Y
1.67
SNLS
2.64
2.00
2.00
2 nd Seam Overlock
0.31
Y
0.42
3TH O/L
0.66
1.00
1.00
Second seam edge stitch
1.09
Y
1.45
SNLS
2.30
2.00
2.00
3rd panel hemming
0.50
Y
0.67
SNLS
1.06
1.00
1.00
Lining - shell Zipper Facing attach (one side)
0.46
Y
0.61
SNLS
0.97
1.00
1.00
Lining - shell Zipper Facing attach (other side)
0.40
Y
0.53
SNLS
0.84
1.00
1.00
Lining opening lock
0.48
Y
0.64
SNLS
1.01
1.00
1.00
Zipper edge stitch
0.39
Y
0.52
SNLS
0.82
1.00
1.00
Lining body ready stitch
0.51
Y
0.68
SNLS
1.08
1.00
1.00
Main and size label attach
0.34
Y
0.45
SNLS
0.72
1.00
1.00
W ash care attach
0.36
Y
0.48
SNLS
0.76
1.00
1.00
Belt attach
0.75
Y
1.00
SNLS
1.58
2.00
2.00
elastic extensoin (pointed) stitch
0.37
Y
0.49
SNLS
0.78
1.00
1.00
Belt Finishing attach
1.10
Y
1.47
SNLS
2.32
2.00
2.00
Belt Kinnari
0.38
Y
0.50
SNLS
0.80
1.00
1.00
W aist band Elastic Kruke
0.64
Y
0.85
SNLS
1.35
2.00
2.00
Elastic attach
0.69
Y
0.92
SNLS
1.46
2.00
2.00
Elastic Pointed stitch
0.37
Y
0.49
SNLS
0.78
1.00
1.00
Y
0.00
SNLS with edge cutter
0.00
0.00
0.00
Scallop width cutting lace join @ left & right side
0.45
Y
0.60
5-TH O/L
0.95
1.00
1.00
Bottom Lace attach
1.10
Y
1.47
SNLS
2.32
2.00
2.00
Bottom Lace seam overlock
0.38
Y
0.50
5-TH O/L
0.80
1.00
1.00
Scallop - Bottom panel edge stitch
0.78
Y
1.04
SNLS
1.65
2.00
2.00
Bow attach
0.53
Y
0.71
SNLS
1.12
1.00
30.33
S.
SNLS
Machine Requirement
M/Cs
1
SNLS w/ UBT
0.00
2
SNLS with edge cutter
0.00
3
DNLS
0.00
4
DNLS w/ split bar
0.00
5
3 T O/lock
2.00
6
5-TH O/L
8.00
7
Collar trim, turn & block
0.00
8
Automatic cuff block m/c
0.00
9
Buttonhole m/c
0.00
10
Button stitching m/c
0.00
11
Snapping m/c--Female
0.00
12
Snapping m/c--male
0.00
13
Bar tack M/C
0.00
14
T able
4.00
15
Iron
0.00
No.
40.44
1.00 67.00
62.00
1 line
Gen-Prom, UNDP
50
KSA-Technopak
Annexure 5: Method Document
METHOD DOCUMENT Style #1
Product : Blouse
Operation
Pocket-
Date
Approved by: SS
Needle
SPI
Bellow strip SAM 0.75
Operation No. : 4
Work Aids : Pocket Holder for pickup /Bellow Strip dispensor/ Left Pocket holder for disposal Previous Operation: Pocket hemming/ pressing of bellow Following Operation:
Machine
stitch (2) DNLS W/
split bar Attachments P727 2 Needle Presser foot with rigid guild
Sequence of Parts Received: Ascending
Send: Ascending Attach bellow pocket to body Bundle Handling before Operation
Hand Used
1.Open the bundle of pocket on front pocket holder
B/H
Operation Method 1. Pull bellow from dispensor and place under the presser foot while folding
BH
2. Pick the Pocket from front pocket holder and place under the presser foot over bellow strip while holding the trimmer in the other hand
BH
3. Tack initailly and then stitch bellow along pocket shape till end 3 bursts and tack in the end and cut the strip
BH
4. Dispose in the left pocket holder with face down so that will keep the order when bundle is inverted
LH
5. Repeat 1,2,3 &4 till all the pieces of one bundle is finished
BH
Bundle Handling after Operation 1.Report the output on the gum sheet
RH
3. Tie and Dispose the bundle
BH
Operation Diagram
Gen-Prom, UNDP
Operation Layout
51
KSA-Technopak
Freq
d e % v f e r i e h P c A
: e t a D
: n o i t c e S / e n i L
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ f o _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ y a D
s k c e h C y t i l a u Q
r e k c e h C
s t i n U
f l e S
e c n a r a e p P p S A
t c e f e D I
e g g a n l m i y a t D S
s t c e f l e a D t o T %
% . f f E
d e t e l p m o C . n i m l a t o T
% . f r e P
: s n i m d t S . f f O
e h s m i n i T i F
t r a t S
3
t e g r a T
2
% y t i c a p a C
1
M A S ) )
: r e n i a r T
: ) s ( : r n o o t i t a r a r e e p p O O
. )
t g o v T A
p a C
a C
n o i t a s r u n D u
) y t i c a p a c n o ( : e m i T k c o l C l a t o T ) s n i m (
R a n i m a t S
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
: e t a D
: n o i t c e S / e n i L
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ f o _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ y a D
s t i n U
s k c e h f l C e S y t i l a u Q t c e f e D I
e c n a r a e p P p S A
e g g a n i m l y a t D S
l a t o T
s t c e f e D %
d e t e l p m o C . n i m l a t o T
% . f r e P
: s n i m d t S . f f O
e h s m i n i i T F
3
t e g r a T
2
% y t i c a p a C
1
M A S . ) ) r n g s h i v M / M A A s c / l c c i s M a p n a B i ( C ( B y % t i y c t i a c p a a t g p o v C a T A C
: r e n i a r T
: ) s ( : r n o o t i t a r a r e e p p O O
n o i t a s r u n D u
R a n i m a t S
. d r P s M A S s t i n U
M A S
) y t i c a p a c n o ( : e m i T k c o l C l a t o T
) )
y s s e l e d l u y c t 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 C y S 1 l C a l y t a i m c r m a o r o p N ( N a l ( C a
1 2 3
% . f f E
t r a t S
y d u t S y t i c a p a C : 6 e r u x e n n A
n o i t a r e p O
y r a m m u S y l i a D
d e % v f e r i e h P c A r e k c e h C
s t i n U
M A S
)
r y s s i n g s h e l e d v M l M A A / u y c / c s t c 0 y c p S 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 C l C i s M l a n y a l a ( B C i t a B ( i m c r m y % t a o r i o y p c N t ( N i a a l ( c p C a a
. d r P s M A S
) s n i m (
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
y r a m m u S y l i a D
n o i t a r e p O
1 2 3
k a p o n h c e T A S K 3 5
P D N U , m o r P n e G
