Indian Designer -Ritu Kumar
Presented By:Reema N.
Indian Designer: Ritu Kumar
“The pride of India” Ritu Kumar is a person who needs no introduction infact her work speaks out for themselves. A little little girl from Amritsar who dreamed to be successful completed her basic academy in Amritsar, Amritsar, as well as studied various things from various parts of her motherland. With the ability of minute observation, managed to gain interest in various artistics forms of India.
Ritu began with hand block printers and two tables in a small village near Calcutta, and in the last 28 years, Ritu’s Ritu’s team of dedicated workers have progressed to produce some of the country’s country’s most exquisite garments and accessories in cotton, silk and leather. These ranges embrace both traditional textile crafts and the lineage of Indian design. Over the centuries, traditional skills that had been lost have been revitalized and this has enabled the craftsmen to continue working in their own environment. Ritu has pioneered the term ‘fashion’ ‘ fashion’ in the Indian context, and more importantly, has demonstrated that hand made products can be as profitable and even more glamorous than those made by machine.
Ritu Kumar’s forte is traditional Indian clothes,that draw heavily on the textile and embroidery heritage of India and remains re mains classics of their kind. But she evolved another style for European buyer. buyer. Her Indo-West fusion wear has all the trappings of block prints, embroidery and craft inputs on a western style. Ritu has been designing the wardrobes comprising swim-wear, evening wear, traditional Indian wear, casual wear, wear, formal evening gowns; of the winning three Miss India’ I ndia’s, s, for their participation in the International beauty pageants (Miss Universe, Miss World World & Miss Asia pacific respectively).
At least six of these, to mention a few; Manpreet Brar, Ruchi Malhotra, Rani Jeyraj and recently Lara Dutta, have won the award for the Most Outstanding Evening Gown in International pageants.
Ritu has opened many outlets all over India. I ndia. Style icons as late Princess Diana have patronized her outfits. Ritu Kumar also launched her book ‘ Costumes and Textiles of Royal India’ I ndia’ which which is published by Christie’s, London.
Personal Data: Born in Amritsar, November 11, 1944 Citizenship: INDIAN Married, Two children.
Education: Post Graduate Diploma in Museology, 1967, Ashutosh Ashutosh Museum, Calcutta
Associate in Arts, 1966, Briarcliff College, Westchester County, NY, USA Bachelor of Education. 1965, Lady Irwin College, New Delhi Bachelor of Science in Home Economics, 1964, Lady Irwin College, New Delhi Intermediate in Science, 1960, Government College, Amritsar Matriculation, 1958, Sacred Heart Convent, Amritsar
Professional Experience: Designer of Textiles and Garments
R & D in Design: Leather ready-mades and accessories using traditional techniques – The collection “Karabagh” launched in 1994. Development of handloom weaving to suit ready to wear needs, in Maheshwar, Maheshwar, Andhra Pradesh, Orissa and Tamil Nadu. Revival of tie/dye in selected areas in Gujarat. Revival and change of end use of vegetable printing/painting printing/painting and dyeing techniques in Andhra Pradesh. Revival and change in end use of the printing techniques of Tanjore. Research into traditional design motifs to translate them from f rom traditional uses to leather and textiles. Development of a specialized printing unit at Balabhgarh employing modern techniques of screen-printing. Continuing work on established lines, producing two collections a year for national retail outlets in: Traditional Traditional Zardozi
Kashida Handblock prints Ethnic embroideries by machine and hand Kantha
Associations Membership of Governing / Executive bodies : All India Handloom Board at the Ministry of Textiles. Delhi Crafts Council, Delhi Chapter Divyachhaya “Save a Child” Trust, Calcutta / Delhi Board of Governors : National Institute of Fashion Technology.
Boutique 1966 Ritu’s Ritu’s first Boutique opened in Delhi at D3 Defence Colony Link Road, New Delhi. This was the first ever boutique in Delhi
Collections “I believe in going deep into the roots of every design to find out its relevance in in the present present context. I also try and visualize visualize whether a woman would look elegant in my designs. It’s a lot of hard work. But then this is a
very competitive field and unless you put in that extra effort you will tag far Kum ar First City, Aug-99 Aug- 99 behind.” — Ritu Kumar
Zardozi
Threads of metal Crafting their way through the lineage of skilled fingers Zardosi at one time encrusting the garments of royal patrons; patrons; degraded by commercial commercial exploitation, resurrected in all its tensile glory for weddings festivals and ceremonies. ceremonies. The fusion of a Mughal Mughal craft with the the Indian, a celebration of the secular mind. . In the small village of Ranihati, a cluster of thatched huts under giant palms a few miles outside Kolkata, Ritu Kumar began research and work on reviving the forgotten art of Zardozi. With innovations innovations in use of material and the technique of Zardozi itself she was able to attain applicability much wider than its traditional use in court and bridal costumes. costu mes.
In 1985, after years of research, innovation and creation, Ritu Kumar launched her Zardozi collection in New Delhi. This was the first ever display of Zardozi in a contemporary era. A modest beginning but with tremendous hard work, soon resulted in a broad understanding and revived patronage of this craft. To To her credit, Zardozi is now an extensively used and widely appreciated technique around the country.
1988: Kashida Using needle and thread to decorate textiles is an ancient craft. In India embroidery patterns have evolved in different regions of the country—the geometric phulkari’s phulkari’s of the Punjab, mirror works motifs of the Kutch, Kashmir’s stylized plant and floral motifs, tone on tone Chikan of Lucknow, Lucknow, and the Kanthas of Bengal form part of the vast repertoire of India’s India’s embroidery traditions. Block printing is another highly developed tradition of ornamenting textiles. Blocks are small surfaces surf aces of wood carved in reverse. These are dipped into dyes and the design is transferred on to cloth. Ritu Kumar developed ‘Kashida’ as the art of colored thread embroidery on hand block printed fabric. The Collection was first displayed in 1988 and has since been used significantly in RITU’s garments sold at her retail outlets around India.
1994: Karabagh On the southwestern shores of India, stretching from f rom Macchalipatnam to Negapatnam lies the Cholamandal Coast. The prints of these region are synonymous with an exuberant design vocabulary of stylized flowers, leaves, birds, trees, vines developed in hinterland villages over hundreds of years. Far to the north, hidden in the mountains and valleys of Kashmir,
another distinct design directory evolved, around myriad permutations on the Ambi, or what became known as the paisley to the rest of the world. Villages in the desert reaches of Rajasthan and dusty plains of Gujarat gave us the Buti in its many ma ny forms while the Farukhabad School, from the Indian heartland, produced in its ateliers, a completely different vocabulary with its vibrant use of the square space and evolved spring-like textured jalis with vibrant surface distribution which were popular later as the “Cheent” or chinz prints of India. With With the Karabagh Collection, Ritu Kumar pays tribute to the eternal vines of the Cholamandal coast and the paisley or Ambi, popularized in the painted and printed tradition of Kalamkari, which is the starting point of this collection. The experiment transcends tradition in its attempt to combine techniques and materials accessible to the designer. Thus leather coats, bags and accessories are embossed, printed or painted, embroidered in harmony with the basic ethos of the Cholamandal design range, enhancing and adding an element of embellishment hitherto unexplored. The soft furnishing include spreads, hangings and cushions printed, embroidered and quilted on the finest Murshidabad silk, perhaps for the first time, transforming the feel of the unending vines of Cholamandal and bringing in a fresh energy to the eternal paisley, paisley, which is synonymous with the Indian identity of design.
1996: Sangmarmar Launched at the end of March – just as spring turned to summer, the Sangmarmar Collection is based on the pristine white of the immortal Taj Taj Mahal and designed with motifs that echo the carvings and inlay work. Mostly comprising outfits in soft white tery-rubia, with ‘tone-on-tone’ ‘ tone-on-tone’ white embroidery or delicate pastel contrasts, the ‘Sangmarmar ’ collection collection
epitomizes the purity of marble. Cool and comfortable, comf ortable, the designs offer scoop necklines, short sleeves and criss-cross backs – young and yet with a touch of nostalgia.
1998: Dhoop Chhaon Hues of damask rose, flowering hibiscus, flame of the forest and the deep golden yellow of the marigold are splashed in all their richness in floral prints on salwar kameez ensembles.
1998: Gulmohar As summer sets in, the romantic flame of the forest trees, are vibrant with their red, hot colored flowers, exuberant and wild under the hot April sun. The surrounding trees of the Jacaranda are like an artist’s brush strokes of mauve and purple which along with the brilliant yellows of the Amaltash flowering trees produce a kaleidoscope which vies with the glare of the hot mid day sun. Ritu Kumar’s Gulmohar collection reflects this joyous mood in its play of vibrant prints on cool chiffons. Flowy and feminine, seductive and warm in its textures, colors and prints. The colors are tropical and hot and liven up summer evenings
1999: Bridal Ritu Kumar rejects the long-held premise that the Indian bride has primarily to be dressed in shades of red. For her Bridal ‘99 collection she selected mehendi green, saffron, khaki, turquoise and even off-white colors. Delicate
Zardozi and Aari work embellish the ensembles and the off white fabrics are interwoven with pure gold thread.
2000: Prêt to Couture In August 2000, Ritu Kumar first presented her “Prêt to Couture” collection along with a collection of woolens, silk and leather garments. “Prêt to Couture” is a collection of casual and formal wear that is both young and elegant. The inspirations for these garments are basic Indian motifs, prints and embroideries but with the usage of a wide range of western silhouettes mingled with Indian styles. The show first opened at the Lakme India Fashion Week Week in New Delhi and was later shown in Kolkata.
Recently, Recently, it was combined with a collection of ancient costumes from Ritu Kumar ’s archives as well as her latest Bridal Collection and presented at the National Gallery of Modern Art in Mumbai, as “ A Retrospective—Prêt to Couture” Couture”
Reshmi Ghosh Femina Miss India - 2002 At the preliminary rounds of the Miss Earth Contest, Reshmi Ghosh,
Femina Miss India 2002 won a Best National Costume award designed by Ritu Kumar in the event held at Manila
ndia India
has a rich rich repert repertoir oiree of styles styles and techniqu techniques, es, each each with with divers diversee
interest and socially interesting norms. The national costume of any country reflects the classical best of its textile traditions. The national costume for Reshmi is styled from the traditional wedding wear of the royal houses of the Punjab Punjab in norther northern n India. India. It consists consists of a panell panelled ed skirt, skirt, a short short blouse, and two odhinis or viels. One of these is worn over the shoulder and the other one covers the head to give the ensemble a regal look. The first three parts of the ensembles are made of silk, and patterned with a design from the printing school of Farukhabad. A wide border of a stylized “Tree of Life" motif, edges the skirt and the veil. This is the traditional method of detailing royal garments. The pattern moves into a curling vine in the larger areas of the garment. The pattern is coloured in rich red/burgundy and the entire design is picked up with a three dimensional gold embroidery traditionally known in India for centuries-- called Zardozi. The viel which covers the hair is made of sheer net and embellished e mbellished with narrow borders. The ensemble is accessorized with antiqued kundan jewellery, jewellery, bangles and flowers.
“Ritu Kumar is also one of the choosen one to design outfits for the contestant for Miss India Pagent as well as the Miss Universe Miss Asia Pacific participant representing representing India.”
Designed wardrobes for the participants of various pageants, with two new contests-- Miss International and Miss Earth added to the growing list of pageants.
Neha Dhupia - participated in the Miss Universe Contest held in
Puerto Rico on 29th May 2002. World contest held in Shruti Sharma - participated in the Miss World London on the 30 th November 2002. Tina Chatwal - participated in the Miss Asia Pacific contest held in Manila on the 30 th November 2002 and she was the first fir st runner up in the contest. Gauhar Khan - participated in the Miss International contest in Tokyo on the 04 th October 2002. Reshmi Ghosh - participated in the Miss Earth contest in Manila, which was held on the 20th October 2002. She won the Be st national Costume Award Award wearing one of our lehnga choli.
Tree Of Life :
Kalpavrisha or ‘Tree of Life” is a recurrent motif from the earliest records and a metaphor for the mystery of creation. (Was (Was one of her inspiration)
The 'Tree of Life' show is a textile tableau combined with an audio visual that takes it's audience across India’s unique blend of tradition, culture and style. The show has now been running for over 10 years and has traveled all over the world, opening doors of India's rich heritage and tradition and receiving incredible acclaim from the fashion world and media. The show comprises eight sequences, sequences , each a technique of textile craft that Ritu Kumar has been working with over the past 30 years.
Hand Block Printing:
The first imprint of design on cloth… India’s India’s gift to the world The Tree of life carved in handheld blocks, duplicated exuberantly in prolific designs on timeless fabric. Vegetable dyes, mordant dyes, indigo bubbling in vats, painstakingly printed on garments of ageless style for the people of an ancient land.
Hand Block Printing a long forgotten traditional designing was brought back by Ritu Kumar by creating variations with the help of research and experimentations. Mixing block printing with embroidery and many such exclusive creations are a part of her collections.
Awards 1998: 'Lifetime 'Lifeti me Achievement Award' Award' set by National Institute of Fashion
Technology. In recognition to the contribution to the fashion industry, and the encouragement of young talent at NIFT, Ritu was appointed on the Board of Governors of NIFT and was felicitated with the 'Lifetime Achievement Achievement award.
December 1998 : 'Outstanding Women Entrepreneur Award' Award' set by the
PHD-Chamber of Commerce.
15th July 2000: 'Lifetime achievement award' set by Kingfisher Group
The Kingfisher group hosted Fashion Fantasia, a fashion f ashion extravaganza in Bangalore. Awards Awards were given to deserving members of the fashion
fraternity and this is where Ritu Kumar once again won the 'Lifetime achievement award'
Book: In 1999, Ritu Kumar Ku mar released the Costumes and Textiles Textiles of Royal India with launches in London and the four main metros me tros in India. An in-depth account of the royal costumes and textiles of India the book considers all the various stylistic traditions, both religious and regional, arising from within this vast country
The Perfect Wedding:
Wedding Collection (From Ritu’s Table)
I try and reflect the changes that have been brought about in the bridal apparel throughout the century. The latest collection depicts the finest in Indian tradition of embroidery where different kinds of Indian I ndian embroidery techniques have been used. The motifs range from the traditional schools of India's traditional textile centres like Benaras, Kashmir, Andhra Andhra Pradesh, Agra and of course the main schools of Gujarat and Rajasthan. The use of embellishments is traditional and do not depend upon crystals, sequins or any other plastic ornamentation. The traditional metallic effects created with a mixture of dhapka, aari and gota often teaming with both gold and silver is used again to create the fabled Ganga Jamuna effect which has been symbolic of both the aesthetics and culture of the Indian sub continent. There are also traditional wedding lehngas in red, the motifs of Rajasthan
ornamented with gota and zardozi. Other wedding ensembles are in ochre, peach and bandhini silk with the traditional cheron design highlighted with butis or the paisley motifs. The mood varies from a light aari lehngas and three piece ensemble ense mble range to a heavily worked richly covered silk woven lehngas. These are especially noteworthy for their appearance again into the Indian bridal repertoire after an absence of almost a decade or more. In a lighter vein are the gossamer thin net versions of lehnga outfits which portray both a rich glamour and subdued elegance. Also on display is a range of farshis, churidars, salwar kurtas, odhinis and saris in vegetable colour palettes of earthy gheru, saffron, terracotta and burgundy, burgundy, to soft pomegranate, khakis, dusty rose colours, as a mark of departure from the traditional ones like red, magenta or maroon, which have found popularity amongst the younger generation. The colour palette also emphasized Mehndi green, rose pink, lilac, peach, soft greys gold and turquoise.
An Interview – Ritu Kumar
Ritu Kumar (Began the boutique culture in India)
Mentors : Pupul Jayakar, Kamala Devi Chattopadhyay Ambitions in life: To be able to continue the research and revival work that has been started in the craft areas.
Challenges in the fields: To be constantly innovative and understand the needs of a new generation without losing the inherent thread of one's work or one's handwriting.
High point in career: The completion of my book The Costumes and Textiles Textiles of Royal India and the tableau The Tree Of Life, both of which reflected the textile richness of this country.
Advise to aspirants: There are no shortcuts in any profession. If the job is worth doing, it will take a lot of sweat and endeavor. Be prepared to not create genius, and hope something will evolve at the end.
Fashion Forecasting Trends After a year where black reigned supreme and the emphasis was on minimalism, it's time now to add some colour. So look forward to lots of bright colour. So look forward to lots of bright colours this year. year. Besides, there will an emphasis on accessorizing blacks and browns with bright colours. Short kurtas will remain a favourite with the younger lot and the saree will come back in a big way. way. Everybody, Everybody, regardless of age, will like to be in a saree.
Wardrobe essentials for women minimum of two pairs of good sandals is a must for every Sandals: A minimum woman.
Scarves: They will be one of the most important part of any woman's wardrobe this year. Scarves in bright colours will be the rage. Clothes: A nice saree in crepe, cr epe, a well-fitting trouser suit, a linen jacket and a solid salwar kameez in beige or any other colour with nice, bright accessories are a must.
Jewellery: Something that looks like a cross between Indian and European designs. For this, antique silver jewellery is best.
Kajal: A must for every woman to make her eyes look beautiful and expressive.
Wardrobe essential for men A well-stitched well-stitched pair of black trousers, a nice pair of denim jeans, good shoes and a leather jacket are musts for any good looking man.
Ritu Kumar – An Inspiration
Ritu Kumar Kumar is indeed an inspiration to me and many other young aspiring designers. Her research and work motivates me to experiment and explore various traditional art works of my motherland which surely stands apart from the rest. Ritu Kumar is one of the Indian Designer D esigner who represents are country and promotes our rich heritage on an international level.
