How-To-Make-A-Tesla-Turbine-Greenest-Turbine.pdf

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How To Make A Tesla Turbine (Greenest Turbine) by CrazyMachinist94 on March 2, 2009

Table of Contents

How To Make A Tesla Turbine (Greenest Turbine) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

Intro: How To Make A Tesla Turbine (Greenest Turbine) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2

Step 1: Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3

Step 2: Make the Shank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

Step 3: Retaining Ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

Step 4: Drill holes in Hard Drive Platters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

Step 5: Drill holes in plexi-glass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

Step 6: Cut pipe and Drill air inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

Step 7: 7: Put Bearings Bearings Onto Shank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Step 8: Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Step 9: Taking it Further . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Step 10: Copper Air Input Instead of Plastic Tubing Tubing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-A-Tesla-Turbine-Greenest-Turbine/

Intro: How To Make A Tesla Turbine (Greenest Turbine)

If you like this instructable please vote for it in t he Epilog Challenge coming up. I have spent alot of time and effort trying to make this easy to understand and easy for anyone out there to do. I hope you enjoy and please rate and vote. This Instructable will show you how to construct a turbine from reused parts and a couple of new materials. This turbine can achieve speeds of up to and possibly accede 15,000-20,000 running speed rpm's and top rpm's reaching around 30,000 to 35,000. This project can be run on about 40 psi but I have run mine on up to 100 psi and it will really started to scream (I would not sugest running it with that much pressure for more than a few seconds, I was just testing it to see what it could do, it was very dangerous and it could have or was close to flying apart). But to make this project even greener you could run it on steam. Or put it downstream and direct water flow to it and run it just as a hydroelectric plant, this turbine is very strong and versitile. Also please rate this instructable. The reason for making this instructable is because I have been scanning the internet and to make one of these and the outcome of it will either not look very nice or they are very hard to find mater ials to make them or the materials are too expensive and usually the directions are very complicated and leave parts out. If any of you feel that I have left any parts out please leave a comment and I will try to put them into my instructable and if you have any trouble with any of this please make me aware of it and I will help you out.***PLEASE READ THROUGH THE ENTIRE INSTRUCTABLE BEFORE STARTING YOUR BUILD. Also something that I would love to see done is to have someone build a boiler, this turbine and a small r /c vehicle that could be powered by this. You could even put a generator on the turbine to power the electronic parts of the car. Although you would need to gear it down a bit so it has more torque and less rpm's but if anyone does this or has seen it done please l et me know so I can see i t. I am not liable for your versions of this and for t his failing horribly and hurting someone so please do not run this on any more than about 70 psi and don't run it too long with that much pressure it wi ll spin at around 15,000 rpm's at about 40 psi which should be good enough unless you are showing it off to friends or family, then crank it up but don't blow it up. ***Update, After seeing what this project could do I am now deciding what kind of motor to put onto this to actually power something and I am working on a copper exhaust system that will come together like the headers of a car to direct the exhaust flow upwards instead of str aight out. I will be putting on how to build and attach these things within the next two to three weeks. I will post sometime soon.


Step 1: Parts Here is a picture of all of the parts and tools needed for the construction of your turbine. 10 hard drives, which if you go t o your local high school they will willingly give you however many hard drives that you want just be polite and let them know what you are doing with them (you only need nine but just in case you mess up). You will then need two pieces of 1/4 inch plexi-glass that are 7x7 inches. Then about a 2.2 " piece of 4 inch diameter schedule 40 pvc pipe and if you want you may be able t o find clear pipe for a better look. An exacto-knife or sharp knife. Safety glasses. A small bench-top lathe or mini-lat he. Then eight bolts that are 31/2 inches long and anywhere from 1/4 to 3/4(which is unnecessary but if that is what you have go ahead) inches in diameter. Then you will need 8 bolts and 16 washers to go along with them. Also, you will need some tubing; I am using 3/8 inch id 3/4 inch od plastic tubing. Then you should have two bearing and part of you project will be based on these so I chose two 1/4 inch id bearings with 5/8 inch od. These are Fafnir S1KDD7 bearings. You will then need some precision measuring equipment such as a micrometer and a good ruler. And on your lathe you should have a tailstock with a dead center or live center. And a 6-7 inch piece of 1-1/2 inch diameter Aluminum. The only parts out of the hard drive that you will be using are the platters and the spacer rings so save them and you can throw the rest out or save the very strong magnets in them for another project. I forgot to mention you do not need to have the same size bearings as I do just whatever you have lying around. But I have found that the smaller they are the higher speeds they can handle and if I were you I would not go under a 1/4 inch inner diameter. You should also have a set of drills and a drill. Just to be clear here is a list of materials. See pictures if you have trouble understanding what anything is. Materials -10 hard drives (local high school [tech department]) -8 bolts (I will be using 5/16) (hardware store or look around your house for some laying around) -8 nuts (I will be using 5/16) (hardware store or look around your house) -16 washers with a 5/16 hole in them (hardware store or look ar ound your house) -Some 4" pvc pipe (The finish length will have to be 2.2") (hardware store or ask a local plumber ,it is a small amount so they may give it to you for free just remember to be polite) -2 pieces of plexi-glass that are 7x7" ( hardware store) -1 pieces of 1-1/2" diameter aluminum 6-7" long (probably will have to order off the internet like I did) -2 ball bearing I am using some with an inner diameter of 1/4" and outer diameter of 5/8" (hardware store, you do not have to use the exact ones I am) -About a foot of plastic tubing (hardware store) -JB Weld (hard ware store but you can use almost any strong glue you have around such as super glue) -Silicon sealant (automotive store, ex. Advance Auto Parts or maybe Lowes or a hardware store will have it) if you don't know what this is there is a picture of it in here Tools -Exacto-knife (almost any store) -Safety glasses (almost any store) -Some kind of lathe (I am using a South Bend) with a tailstock and dead center or live center (if you do not have a lathe try to get a machine shop to do it for you but you will have to pay them depending on the owner anywhere from $10 to $60 where I work you might get it done for $20) -A micrometer and precision ruler (order off the internet buy a good brand don't cheap out so it will last a while if you do not have one but if you are giving it to a machine shop to do don't worry about these) -A set of drills (hardware store) -A drill press or mi lling machine would be nice but a hand dr ill will be fine (you probably know someone that has one that would let you use it if you do not have one) Extras -Krylon spray paint (hardware store) -Lock nuts instead of regular nuts listed above in the materials section (hardware store)




Step 2: Make the Shank This part will be very easy f or anyone with some machining experience, for instance I am 15 and just purchased a South Bend benchtop lathe and t his entire project was done with this. I will put some machinist drawings in to make this part of the project much easier. This took me about 7 hours on the lathe to make so make sure you have some time. This is where you wit h be using the 1-1/2 inch aluminum. You should put this piece into your lathe in between the chuck and the tailstock. Just follow the drawings for this step. Also the two ends of this shank will be fit into the bearings so machine them to the inner diameter of your bearing not mine, unless they are the same size, in that case make it like mine. Please click on the Machinist Layout file to get the dimensions of this part. Also if you have any trouble understanding these dimensions please contact me and I will tr y to help you out. Note that this picture is not drawn to scale.

File Downloads

Machinist Layout.doc (31 KB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Machinist Layout.doc']

Machinist Layout for Word 97-2003.doc (32 KB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Machinist Layout for Word 97-2003.doc']

Machinist Layout For PDF.pdf ((792x612) 109 KB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Machinist Layout For PDF.pdf']


Step 3: Retaining Ring This ring will be the exact same size as the larger portion of the shank. All this will do is ensure that all of the hard drive platters and rings will stay onto the shank. I will once again put a machinist's diagram into the pictures to make it easier to understand. In this piece you will also have to drill and tap a hole for an 8-32 set screw. This will make sure that the r ing does not come off. Again if you have any problems understanding the image please contact me. This picture is also not drawn to scale.

File Downloads

Machinist Layout 2.doc (29 KB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Machinist Layout 2.doc']

Machinist Layout 2 for Word 97-2003.doc (29 KB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Machinist Layout 2 for Word 97-2003.doc']

Machinist Layout 2 For PDF.pdf ((612x792) 105 KB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Machinist Layout 2 For PDF.pdf']

Step 4: Drill holes in Hard Drive Platters The drilling of these holes should be fairly easy, all you will need for this is a drill press, but a milling machine would make it easier. I just used a drill press. You will need to drill eight holes 25 mm from the center of the hard drive disk. These holes will be spaced 45 degrees apart. You can easily plot this out on a piece of graph paper with a protractor before you drill it to ensure it i s correct spacing and everything. And it is ok if the holes are not at the exact space on every disk because they are not on mine and it works just fine; just make sure they are no more that .030" difference. When drilling t hese holes remember to use a sheet metal drill unless you figure out a way to keep them all together while drilling, because it will warp your hard drives. Also you may want to look at the hard drive layout file for some help on what to do to lay it out. You will need to make eight of these. Ohya and use a 3/8" drill bit for this. Also do not use the diagram that I made because the holes on that are too far off the make this project be same, it WILL be off-balanced if you were to use that it is just an example to help you.

File Downloads

Hard Drive Layout.doc (29 KB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Hard Drive Layout.doc']

Hard Drive Layout For Word 97-2003.doc (29 KB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Hard Drive Layout For Word 97-2003.doc']

Hard Drive Layout For PDF.pdf ((612x792) 108 KB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Hard Drive Layout For PDF.pdf']


Step 5: Drill holes in plexi-glass This step will be based on the bolts that you used and the bearings that you used but it will consist of an eight hole pattern with the holes spaced 45 degrees apart just like the hard drives. Then you will drill a hole in the center of the sheet of 7x7" plexi-glass, I drilled a 5/8 inch hole because of my bearings and then you can just drill an appropriate sized hole for your bearings. In only one of the pieces of plexi-glass you wil l need to drill a few holes around the center hole for exhaust ports. The larger the hole the larger the high rpm's horsepower and the smaller the holes the more low rpm torque. I drilled four 3/8 inch hole around the center, 25 mm out from the center, so you could use the same pattern you did for your hard drive disks just skip every other hole. And four 3/8" hole is about right in the middle of the two rpm ratios. Also, use a 3/8 inch bit for the eight hole for the bolts to go through if you are using 5/16 bolts like me. These holes are 2.5" from the outside of the 5/8 inch hole you drilled in the center or if you did not drill a 5/8 inch hole they are 2.8125" from the center. This is another eight hole pattern l ike for the disks so like I said before space them 45 degrees apart.


Step 6: Cut pipe and Drill air inlet Cut your pvc pipe to 2.2" and then drill a hole the size of your tubing into the middle of your pvc pipe and offset it a little bit so it is at an angle so that when the air enters it, it immediately starts spinning inward. Once this pipe is cut to make sure the whole end surface is even, take it on the lathe and face it off until smooth, then take some 600 grit sandpaper and smooth the ends so no air can escape when the plexi-glass is put onto the ends. If you want to skip the sanding then just put some silicon or mopar sealer around the ends to keep the air from seeping out. On my project I did not do this, I just sanded it because in my opinion it gives it a better appearance. This step is pretty self explanatory.


Step 7: Put Bearings Onto Shank When putting the bearings onto the shank just make sure to put some jb weld or some super glue on the inside of the bearing so it will not move once assembled, just put the glue on during the assembly process so everything lines up correctly. Remember that it will be spinning at around 15,000 rpm so if it would slip or run out of the bearing it would be very bad. These do not need to be put at any set position but when you do this make sure that they are not ri ght up against the larger parts of the shank, I designed this so the bearings can have a little bit of r oom so do a dry assembly first to make sure everything fits then glue everything. And make sure that the bearings line up with the plexi-glass sheets you want them about centered in the plexi-glass, not too far in or too far out.


Step 8: Assembly First put one of the hard drive disks that you have not drilled onto the shank. Then layer them with a spacer from the hard drive and then put a disk with t he holes drilled in it, spacer, disk, spacer, disk and so one until you end up with just a spacer on the end(After you do a dry assembly then put a f ew drops of superglue between each disk and spacer so they will not spin on the shank, that is not what we want them to do. After you do this put the retaining ring on and tighten up the set screw. Once this is done you can put the rest of it together. The last picture in this setting is the assembled shank and disks sorry I do not have a better picture. After this is done then t ake the piece of plexi-glass without the exhaust ports in it and put the eight bolts into the hole you drilled previously. Then flip this piece over so the bolt heads are on the bench or table you are using. Then lay the pvc pipe onto the piece of plexi-glass with the assembly of the shank and disks (look at the extras section first). Then you should take the ot her piece of plexi-glass (the one with the exhaust ports) and slide it onto the eight bolts that should be standing strait up now. After that take the last eight washers and slip them onto the bolts. Then put the eight nuts onto the bolts. The project should now be coming together. Then once you tighten up the nuts (remember to put the bearings exactly where you want them and then center your pvc pipe around the disks before tightening the nuts) then put your piece of tubing into the previously drilled hole and put a plentiful amount of silicon sealer all around the tube and the hole so no air will leak out from t his area. Then put the appropriate air fitting that you have on the other end of your tube and you are ready to run it after the glue dries of course. On to taking it further.





Step 9: Taking it Further Now what you may want to do and you may have noticed in the previous steps that throughout the instructable my pvc pipe transitioned from plain white to blue. If you plan on painting your project do this before assembly. I used Krylon because it is i n my opinion the best spray paint out there and it will bond t o anything. Another thing to help your project stay together but is not necessary is to use lock nuts instead of regular nuts. I did switch over and use these aft er I thought about it for a while and I believe it will help to keep your project together longer. Also one thing that I did not do and I am now wishing I did is polish the ends of my plexi-glass. This is something that I do not know how to do but I imagine that you should be able to easily find it somewhere on the internet. Something else you may consider is making a steam boiler. This is something that I know how to do but it will take another instructable so if I get enough responses for me to make this I will so if you would li ke to see one on Instructables please let me know. You may also want to make a Tesla pump which is just about the exact same thing as this except the water or fluid will enter f rom the exhaust ports and will exit from where we are putting the air inlet which is where the plastic tube is. Once again I am sorry but I do not know how to make one of these but If you do let me know of the site and I will post a link on how to do this, same for polishing the ends of the plexi-glass. And your turbine could power t his too. These are just add-ons so do not feel that you have to do these things to make your turbine run because I have only painted mine and made a boiler for it which make this project very green. Speaking of that you could also add on a small D.C. generator of some sort and light some L.E.D.'s with it and having your project run something else always makes it look better, please if any of you make one of these send me a picture and I will dedicate a section to all of you that make one. ***Note: you may want to make a ball valve system so you can quickly shut it off if something were to go wrong and it makes it nice to be able to control the speed if you want to I have a picture of this if you want to see mine.


Step 10: Copper Air Input Instead of Plastic Tubing To make your finished turbine look better with a copper air input instead of a plastic tubing one you will need the following materials. Materials -9" of 1/2" copper pipe -Pipe cutter -45 degree copper coupling -90 degree copper coupling -Air fitting -Coupling with threads to fit your air fitting -Torch -Solder -Soldering paste -Mothers mag and aluminum polish and a rag if you want to polish your cooper -Teflon tape -Silicon -1/2" fasteners for copper pipe Ok to start we will have to cut our old tubing about 2 inches out. And since that tubing fits perfectly into the 1/2" copper pipe will just slide it right over the tube that is already there so we do not have to drill out our pvc and t ake the whole turbine apart. Now cut your copper pipe into the following lengths: 5", 3", and 1/2". At t his point in time put some teflon tape around your air fitting and thread i t into the copper coupling with the threads. Now take the 5" copper pipe you previously cut and put some soldering paste onto it and slip it into the other end of the coupling with the air fitting in. Now fire up the torch and solder these two pieces together. Take the 3" piece of copper pipe and solder t he 45 degree coupling onto it. On the other end of the 45 degree coupling solder the piece of copper pipe that is 1/2" long (this is for the plastic tubing to fit into; it will not be a snug fit into just the coupling so we have to do this unless you want to waste a large amount of glue sealing the two together). Then on the other end of that same pipe solder the 90 degree coupling on. Now take the 5" copper pipe with t he air fitting on i t and solder that to t he 90 degree coupling that is already attached onto the other pipe. The copper pieces are now all together. (***Skip this step if you do not want to polish your copper pipe) With all of the pieces of copper together take some mothers polish (if you want to) and polish the copper (I prefer a shiny finish because it will draw more people into looking at what you have really done). Now slide your tubing into the copper pipe and re-silicon anything if it breaks loose and also put a little bit of silicon inside the copper pipe in the 45 degree angle piece so


it make a better seal. Now let this dry overnight. Now that you have done this your project will look much better. Also if you see the pictures with the tape on them it is just holing the copper pipe there until I get some fasteners. But if you have already gotten them fasten away.




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Comments 50 comments Add Comment

Zach Tapp2 says:

view all 170 comments

Feb 22, 2011. 5:06 PM REPLY

could i use the same disign with CDs and a 5 in pipe?

kartikiyer247 says:

Jul 28, 2009. 6:41 AM REPLY whats its use for???????pls answer!!!!!i liked t he project and would like to make it!!!but can u tell me where its basically used nd whats its application???

diginess says:

Jan 8, 2011. 9:53 PM REPLY Basically it's used to translate motion of air, water, etc into rotation of the device. It then acts as a flywheel, you could attach an electric motor to it to generate electrical power.

jpa234 says:

Jul 13, 2010. 12:13 AM REPLY

daaaang!0_0 at first i was all like "sounds fun" :3 now im all like 'sounds kompicated' :/ how much did it cost u 2 m8k dis?

kage_no_akiri says:

Dec 6, 2010. 12:41 AM

(removed by author or community request)

Pilgrimm says: Domo Arigato!


Dec 9, 2010. 10:40 PM REPLY

kage_no_akiri says:

Dec 10, 2010. 12:26 AM


jpa234 says:

Dec 13, 2010. 7:27 PM


kage_no_akiri says:

Dec 13, 2010. 8:11 PM


jpa234 says:

Dec 29, 2010. 3:17 PM REPLY I was just having some fun with the spelling is all, anyway don't you t hink this argument is kinda silly. I mean we're arguing about typing skills *_*

kage_no_akiri says:

Dec 29, 2010. 4:23 PM REPLY well sht....yeah i guess your right if you think about it. wow....how petty. im really sorry i started all of this. kenkou chou jumyou kage no mozaiku (good health long life, kage no mozaiku)

kage_no_akiri says:

Dec 29, 2010. 5:05 PM REPLY

i went back and deleted my replies. t hanks for getting me to see how foolish this really was. kenkou chou jumyou kage no mozaiku (good health long life, kage no mozaiku)

jpa234 says:

Jan 3, 2011. 7:04 AM REPLY

thanks im glad you understand and thanks for the apology

amando96 says:

Aug 5, 2010. 7:02 AM REPLY

All I need now is the money for a lathe.

sadben says:

Dec 28, 2010. 9:28 AM REPLY go to a machinist, they will make it for you, but i f u took shop or tech design you can use the shop provided by your school.

bombmaker2 says:

Sep 2, 2010. 3:25 PM REPLY

I hear that.

Bitkid says:

Jul 29, 2010. 7:10 PM REPLY

Why do people make these Really? I'm just wondering what they can be used for since I see Many projects on them.

carpe_noctem says:

Dec 2, 2010. 10:33 AM REPLY I haven't done it but a rain water powered generator sounds doable. You would have to run all the water f rom your gutters to the turbine. There might be problems with the gutter fi lling up and overflowing, though, so some kind of bypass near the top of the gutter would probably be a good idea...I'm thinking something like the buoy valve (or whatever i ts called) inside a toilet would probably work.

toogers says:

Nov 3, 2010. 4:58 PM REPLY

you could make an eco-freindly blender.

Sitnalta says:

Sep 26, 2010. 11:09 AM REPLY

They're just science projects, you can't really use them f or anything. To make a practical Tesla turbine you need very precise clearance between the discs and the outer housing, which is impossible to do at home.

dAkshEN3 says: Its just a very eff icient turbine and interesting to make and see working. Plus everyone loves Tesla.


Sep 16, 2010. 11:18 AM REPLY

chakitodog says:

Oct 26, 2010. 4:42 PM REPLY

What do you use to power t he turbine?

jx53 says:

Sep 20, 2010. 8:04 PM REPLY really nice instructable but I need some more precise information. did the holes on hard disk have to be aligned? what is the space between the hard disk? did you place 9 holed disk and then 1 without hole at the end? please give me more precise info on this to help me build my own tesla turbine. thanks at the advance and sorry for my bad english, i'm french!

tesla coil says:

Jan 20, 2010. 8:40 AM REPLY If you dont manage to locate any hard drive disks could you use CDs I am trying to build one an need some info any help would be appreciated

austinsqu111 says:

Jul 31, 2010. 2:20 PM REPLY yes you can use cds but if u have a rack of cds and u look if you stack one say the non shiny side if u stack the non shiny side on another non shiny side u will notice that there is space in between them and thats what you will have to do i am assuming because i dont know if hard dri ve discs are made any differently and i didnt r ead the instructable but yes u can use r egular cds

kazlak5000 says:

Jun 22, 2010. 8:58 AM REPLY

very good http://science.creaforum.net/forum.htm

mekennedy1313 says:

Jan 21, 2010. 10:21 AM REPLY Why do you wrap the incoming air around the body of the turbine. I would think a straight in air pipe would be simpler and not have additional friction of the bends.

Firestorm_101 says:

Jun 14, 2010. 9:49 AM REPLY Pardon if I sound ignorant, but would be better to have the end of the tubing a conical shape? To i ncrease initial pressure blowing into the turbine?

jeremyfox43921 says:

Apr 2, 2010. 3:01 AM REPLY hello first I want to say nice build :) second I want to ask does this produce thr ust and if so how much? I don't check my mail here often at all so my address is [email protected] if you would be able to reply that would be awesome ty

lenny25 says:

Jul 5, 2009. 7:45 AM REPLY If the turbine was geared up, do you think it might have enough torque to work as a motor for another machine like a lathe or a milling machine?

ElectronicsNub says:

Nov 10, 2009. 10:38 AM REPLY It would be a waste of energy to run the compresser to run the turbine to run the lathe. you would go from electrical energy to kinetic (i think) energy. every time you change forms of energy i t costs you some of that energy.

lenny25 says:

Nov 11, 2009. 12:54 AM REPLY The exercise is not really about saving electricity, it's about exploring new possibilities. If I can successfully run a lathe on a compressor, the next question is, What is the minimum pressure needed to run the lathe? And then I want to ask: Can I find a source of air or steam pressure that equals that, yet is more cost eff ective or energy efficient than electricity. So it may not be a very green venture to begin with, but my goal is innovation and invention, which if successful will result in greener machines for the future.

darkevilapie says:

Mar 5, 2010. 3:02 AM REPLY

what about geisers (steamvulkanos ) in iceland. put one on top of these and it wil be green energy yay ^^


Nov 11, 2009. 2:16 PM REPLY

Ahhhhh........... ok, maybe a steam engine-lathe? =P

lenny25 says: Yeah imagine the cool factor on that! The Steampunk Lathe!


Nov 11, 2009. 11:09 PM REPLY


Nov 13, 2009. 3:53 PM REPLY steam is cool stuff, I'm r eally into steam engines and such right now, it has a ton of torque and there are so many designs for the engines. I'm thinking of a nuclear powered one that puts the excess steam in a condenser and recycles it, AKA UNLIMITED FUEL!!! =P

lenny25 says:

Nov 17, 2009. 12:06 AM REPLY Hmmm, Uranium...maybe a little out of reach for the average DIY backyard engineering enthusiast. :P

masterochicken says:

Nov 24, 2009. 1:38 AM REPLY

I beg your pardon? unitednuclear.com/index.php

cuchulain92 says:

Jul 21, 2010. 1:50 PM REPLY The fact that you're posting publicly proves you haven't the capability to reduce that ore to metal and then enrich the isotope, I'm sorry to say. It takes equipment that's out of the reach of some national economies- and if a private citi zen were so able, they'd remain a private citizen for perhaps a day.

CrazyMachinist94 says:

Jul 12, 2009. 11:24 AM REPLY Yes, but it would have to be geared down not up but that would use a lot of air for a lathe or milling machine but it is possible

lenny25 says:

Jul 15, 2009. 2:35 AM REPLY Maybe a compressor? I want to build a lathe, but struggling to find a motor that has enough torque. So I would keep the turbine the same size, but just increase the air pressure and add a couple of pulleys. Maybe I should try a simpler machine first, like making a safer version of that instructable on the pumkin cutter skill saw.

CrazyMachinist94 says:

Jul 20, 2009. 4:23 PM REPLY it would work but you would just need to gear it down alot.. . also almost any compressor would have to be running constantly to keep the turbine going especially if you increased the air pressure, my compressor will be fine for about 2 minutes and then it wil l kick on and just run constantly until i stop the turbine. But whatever you do let me know and if I can help.

kage_no_akiri says:

Dec 6, 2010. 12:48 AM REPLY hey! run teh tubine off of a methanol powered steam generator! youcn even make methanol with grass clippings cus it ferments! so youd pretty much have an inexhaustible supply of fuel. of course teh problem with tht is how much you could actually power with i t and for how long. especialy looking at how long it t akes grass to grow and how much methanol youd have to produce to hold you over the winter. unless you were able to find another source of fermentables for the still. t his would take lots of research on. kenkou chou jumyou kage no mozaiku (good health long life, kage no mozaiku)

seabee890 says:

Oct 31, 2009. 2:41 PM REPLY I love the entousiasm that you all are showing for doing something a different way. I do the same t hing sometimes, but this is what we in the navy call "nuking it." you would probably get a better return on your energy expenditure (though not as cool sounding) if you design a lathe that is powered by the electric motor on your compressor. they did this in the old days when people coud not afford many mot ors, they would use one motor that had different pullies and ratios to power multiple things. figure out the energy usage of the compressor motor and thn deside what it would do. I think somebody created a way to make bearings out of plywood or wood also if you can't work acrylic.

brokengun says:

Mar 11, 2009. 2:17 PM REPLY If your holes aren't precise, I would worry about it at high RPM. Be careful with that, a shattered hard drive disk would be pretty painful at high speed.

swdepew says:

Oct 31, 2009. 8:37 AM REPLY

What does the precise location of t he holes have to do with RPMs and broken hard drives?

kerrs4 says:

Feb 25, 2010. 12:45 PM REPLY it's more the fact that the holes have to me balanced, so t hat the weight is balanced. If the holes are random, then the disc will be unbalanced and may shatter at high speeds

bodo says:

Dec 26, 2009. 4:12 PM REPLY ok well goood but please how can we calculate rpm and power as wats or hp so we can build biger ones for cars or more i heard t hat a small replication get 300 hp so it is posible to build in in something to get energy or motion how can we calculate I can not fined it in wiki

bambam1 says:

Nov 30, 2009. 7:20 PM REPLY ok, I am in the design face of building one and I see that in one side the disk platters have holes and in the other side they dont...How many disks have the holes? or is the last one in one of the sides that doesnt have any...Very nice setup by the way!!


CrazyMachinist94 says: It is only the last disk that does not have holes in it. The rest of them do.

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Dec 22, 2009. 2:00 PM REPLY

How-To-Make-A-Tesla-Turbine-Greenest-Turbine.pdf

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