A Complete Step-By-Step Guide on How To Build A Bob Beck Blood Electrifier and Magnetic Pulser Welcom Wel come to my step-bystep-by-ste step guide on how to to create your own Bob Bob Beck Bl Blood Electrif Electrifiier and Mag Magneti tic c Pulse Pul ser. L et ets s get get started started. We'll be focusing on how to properly build the Bob Beck Blood Electrifier initially as in terms of components and steps it is is a littl ttle e more invol involved ved than than the Magneti etic c Pulse Pul ser which which requi require re les less components and is fairly simple to create. Firstly, we'll go over the components that go into building the Bob beck Blood Electrifier, where to find them and their general purpose for clarification on their function.
The Bob Beck Blood Electrifier Components As menti tioned oned beforehand I'l I'lll go over the parts, their catalog numbers and the websi bsites tes they correspond correspond to:
Component Com Amo Am ount Needed 9v battery 3 9v battery leads 3 L M358 Chip 2 100k Li L inear 1 Potentiometer 0.1uf capacitor 1 22uf 100v capacitor 1 820 resistor* 4 100k resistor* 2 150k resistor* 1 2.4meg resistor* 1 3.5mm audio jack 1 SPDT mini switch 1 9.1v zener diode 4 Mini Red L ED 1 Solderless 1 Breadboard Ju J umper Wir Wire es fo forr 1 Breadboard^ ABS Project Box 1 5" x 2.5" x 1.75" 3.5mmel electrodes ectrodes 1 (can (c an besel selff made)
Catalo Cat log g No. Website CAT#HD-9V allelectronics.com CA T#BST-3 allelectronics.com CAT#L M358 allelectronics.com CA T#NL P-100K allelectronics.com
Total Pr Tot Priice 3 @ $2.55 4 @ $1.00 2 @ $.80 2 @ $1.00
CAT#RM-104 CAT#NC-22 CAT#291-820 CAT AT# #291-100K CAT#291-150K CA T#291-2.4M CAT#MJ W-21 CAT#MTS-5 CAT AT# #1N4739 CAT#ML ED-1 CA T#PB-400
allelectronics.com allelectronics.com allelectronics.com allelectronics.com allelectronics.com allelectronics.com allelectronics.com allelectronics.com allelectronics.com allelectronics.com allelectronics.com
10 @ $.70 1 @ $.85 10 @ $.50 10 @ $.50 10 @ $.50 10 @ $.50 3 @ $1.00 1 @ $1.00 4 @ $1.00 10 @ $1.00 1 @ $4.00
CAT#J W-140
allelectronics.com
1 @ $6.25
CAT#MB-033
allelectronics.com
1 @ $3.15
Wire.3.5
lhasaoms.com
1 @ $3.75
* all resistors are 1/4 watts rating ^jumper wires are necessary to complete thebreadboard style we will be focusing on creating So these are the components for your basic setup for a Bob Beck Blood Electrifier utilizing the ease of use of a breadboard, just log onto the corresponding websites, which is www.allelectronics.com for the most part and just plug in the catalog numbers for each component. In regards to the 3.5mm TENS electrodes from thewww.lhasaoms.com website, I would recommend purchasing themas using alligator clips from a headphone wire is not so secure and also the surfacearea of the 'make-shift probes gets wider than the recommended maximumof 1/8" width that theTENS electrodes surpass for optimum efficiency while in use, in any case, I will later describe the steps to create makeshift electrodes initially if you'd like. On a side note: Thesetools are not absolutely necessary but a recommended: •
Multimeter (volt measurement to assure proper function) CAT#DVM-810
found at allelectronics.com for $7.25 A small bit drill or tool that can be used to createsmall holes in the ABS project box for your switch, light and jack.
•
•
Crazy glue to keep your audio jack and if desired LED in placein the ABS project box. •
A pair of scissors/wire stripper and a needle noseplier to twist wire.
Ok, so we've finally got the basics together, find aclear workspace to lay out thecomponents, no need to remove them from their packages until you need to as it can get confusing if you begin to do things in an unorganized fashion, simply take what you need from thepackets when needed, it's easier for clean up anyway.
The Bob Beck Blood Electrifier Schematic and its Steps to Construction Below is the schematic we will be using to build the Bob beck Blood Electrifier, at this point if you haven't already, I would recommend printing out the schematic and the steps outlined below it, to do so, simply select print but instead of selecting 'All' for the print range, select thebubble left of 'Pages' and type into the value windows from 3 to ....... I've modified the schematic below for ease of recognition of each of the linked ground terminals and linked positive terminals, meaning they all go to thesame place. As well as the positive (+) and negative (-) battery poles of the 9v battery. As a final suggestion, wearing latex gloves makes it a little easier to grip things, but they be more useful during the construction of theMagnetic Pulser which I will outline further below.
Step 1. Getting to Know Your Breadboard So you've got the components ready, you've printed your schematic and now your just about ready to get started, if you already know how a breadboard function you can of course skip to the next step, but here is a quick description of how it works and why it's so useful. A Solder-less Breadboard
Above is an image of a basic breadboard, identical to the one you would have if you ordered it from allelectronics. In any case, the (+) line brings connection to the entire vertical line adjacent to thered line, the (-) line brings connection to the entire vertical line adjacent to the blue line. Simple enough. As for thecolumns labeled 'a' through 'i', each row on either side of the 'gutter' (the division line in the center between columns e and f) are connected. To simplify, row 30 columns 'a' - 'e' are connected to each other, and row 30 columns 'f'-'i' are also connected to each other but because they are on either side of the divider, they do NOT share a connection (unless you make them).
Step 2. Setting Up Your Breadboard for Action If you have the jumper wires your life will be much easier from this point onward. Take two jumper wires of equal length that will reach over the breadboard and link the two (+) positive and (-) negative columns on either side of the bread board to each other, this way you will be able to utilize positive and ground without having to extend wires to oneside when needed for your components.
Step 3. Place Your Chips Take the two LM358 Chips, but before placing them take note of the little mark on the surface of it. The pin to the left of the mark always denotes pin 1, you then number downwards and around back up to pin 8. It looks something like this.
The schematic calls for two LM358 Chips, we will take both of the chips and place them directly above the 'gutter' (center divider) so that the pins are socketed into the holes directly on either side of the gutter. For technical reasons we will place the top chip facing upward (mark) and thesecond chip below it will be facing the opposite direction (downward facing mark) as illustrated.
Step 4. Place Your First Two Resistors If you would look to the far left of the schematic you will see it calls for two 100k Ohm resistors between the positive terminal and the negative terminal, go ahead and pick up two of them clip thewires to a nominal length (not too short) and place themas depicted, the direction of placement is irrelevant for these resistors that we will be working with, just try to keep it consistent. Note: If you see colorful lines they are just representing different jumper wires that have nothing to do with the other wires, some wires will start overlapping so pay attention to their placement, also they may not correspond to the proper sizes that you will have to find in the jumper wire kit.
z Step 5. Complete Your Connections If you look to the schematic you will see that there are threeconnections to what you just created coming from in between the two 100k resistors just placed. One goes to theLM358 Chip at Pin 3, theother goes to Pin 5 of the second LM358 Chip, and finally the last goes to a 150k Ohmresistor, the order is important. Placeyour components as shown, the first wire from the farthest left resistor goes up to the 150k resistor, the second to the 5th pin of the lower (second) chip and thethird to the 3rd pin of the upper (first) chip.
Step 6. Take the Capacitor to Ground
Just to the left on the schematic of the upper (first) LM358 chip you will see a connection splitting, one way goes to a 0.1 uf capacitor then to ground, it'll look like this. Go ahead and place them in.
Step 7. The 2.4 Meg Ohm Resistor and Concurrent Splits Thereafter The second arm of the split from Pin 2 of the first LM358 chip goes to a 2.4 Meg Ohm resistor goes out to Pin 6 of the second (lower) LM358 Chip, then to Pin 1 of the first (upper) Chip and then to the other side of the 150k ohmresistor you have already placed in. Here's the result.
Step 8. Finish off the Connections of the First Chip Now is time to finish off the connections from the first chip, meaning, connecting Pin 4 to ground(negative terminals) and Pin 8 to the positive terminal.
Step 9. Pin 7 of the Second Chip - Diodes to Capacitor If you look to the bottomcenter of the schematic you will see that Pin 7 of the second chip goes off to the four 9.1v Zener Diodes and also splits beforehand to the 100k potentiometer, I'll illustratethe diode to capacitor setup first.
At this point you have great deal of the schematic complete, we will now temporarily focus on the adjustments you need to do in regards to the ABS project box that we'll be putting this whole setup into, this'll make it easier to make your connections further down the line to the proper components without having to take it apart again and re-adjust the length of the jumper wires to reach them.
Y ou'll have to make four holes in the ABS project box, as mentioned before you can use a small bit drill (no larger in diameter than 1/4") or sometype of hand tool to get thesame result. The four holes will correspond to the 100k potentiometer, the 3.5mm jack (crazy glue recommended for the jack where you'll be plugging in the 3.5mm electrodes, be careful not to get any glue inside the hole of thejack), themini toggle switch, and finally our lovely red LED (light) (crazy glue also useful). Note: When creating theholes through the plastic be sure to not overdo it and make it to big, you may have to check each whole with its corresponding pieceto make sure its a snug fit through it. Also, try to keep the holes at onegeneral end of the box, as depicted below, it'll make it easier to complete connections from thebreadboard once it's in the box.
So from here on out the following steps are involved with theabove components being in place in the ABS project box.
Step 10. The 100k Potentiometer and 820 Ohm Resistor Next we will construct the split from Pin 7 of the second (lower) chip to the 100k linear pot. if you notice the 100k potentiometer has three contacts, we will only be using two of themthe middle contact and the contact on the right of it (with the pot facing up of course). One jumper should belong enough to reach from Pin 7 of the lower chip to the middle contact of the potentiometer, then a second
jumper must be long enough to get back onto the breadboard from the potentiometer to meet with a 820 Ohm resistor and then it will hook up off the board onto oneof the terminals of the 3.5mm audio jack that you should have installed beforehand, but we'll get to the jack connections later when everything is ready to go that way. Note: for the contacts to the potentiometer, switch and 3.5mm audio jacks, you will need to twist the ends of the wires around securely with a needle nose plier or something capable of getting thesame effect.
(In theabove image the 100k potentiometer is shown on the breadboard itself for simplicity, in actuality it should be already firmly placed into thetop-side of your ABS project box!)
Step 11. Including the LED (Not Critical) This step can be bypassed if you choose not to include a LED but I always find it nice to have one. It's a fairly simple process, just align (3) 820 Ohm resistors before theLED before hitting ground, the longer wire coming out of the LED is the (+) side and the shorter is the (-) side, the arrangement is critical here.
Step 12. Setting Up the Battery Array Bring out the three 9 volt batteries and three9 volt battery leads (snap-on wires). Snap each lead pair onto a battery. With your wire stripper, or a good knife, strip off a little bit more plastic from the wire coating and then link each battery to each other in series with your needle nose plier by tightly twisting each end to the other, if you have a soldering iron, it could behandy now you can also usesome electric tapeto help hold it together if necessary. (ground)------(-) 9v (+) to (-) 9v (+) to (-) 9v (+)------(+27volts) After arranging the batteries, you will need to attach the positive (+27 volt) end to one of the terminals at the end of the mini-toggle switch that should bein place on the ABS project box. Once you've completed that, take a new jumper wire and make sure it's long enough to extend from the middle terminal on the mini-toggle switch to the breadboard and attach it to the switches middle terminal. Leave the other end meant for the breadboard hanging for now.
Step 13. Making the Final Attachments to the 3.5mm Audio Jack. Before you go ahead and connect to the 3.5mmjack let's take aquick look at the terminals and their correspondence to our schematic. If you haven't noticed already there are three terminals reaching out of the jack, here's what you need to know. .
The final necessary attachments from the breadboard to the audio jack are: Bring a new jumper wire in from the 'open' end of the first 820 Ohmresistor that you placed along with the 100k potentiometer to terminal 3 of the 3.5mmaudio jack. Bring a new jumper wire from the right side of the sole 150k resistor placed just above thefirst (upper)
chip and hook it up to terminal 1 of the 3.5mm audio jack. Then finally, bring a third jumper wire from the end of the 22uf capacitor to the final available terminal on the audio jack, terminal 2. Congratulations, your setup is now complete!
The Final Touch-Ups If you haven't had to do so already, carefully placethe breadboard within theABS project box, the box should be turned upside down and thebread board should be facing up in that regard. Take your battery array and attach the only remaining negative lead into a convenient hole in one of the (-) negative terminals on either side of the bread board, finally, take the wire coming from the center of thetoggle switch that you attached a few steps ago and place it into a hole of the positive terminal. At this point you should see the LED go on if you decided to includeit, if it doesn't make sure it switches on when you move theswitch to the on position. If you decided to skip over the LED move on to thenext statement. Take your electrodes and plug them into the 3.5mm jack, if you didn't order the already made ones, you can easily create on by taking anominal length headphonewire, clip theheadphones off (of course if you must you can go out and buy an audio wire from an electronics store and use that). Use your wire stripper and get rid of the coating over the three wires inside of thecable. Y ou will see one red, one white, and then an uncoated silver wire. Strip thered and white, join the silver and white together, keep the red alone, grab two alligator clips (electronics store or from allelectronics.com) and simple attach the wires to the clips, you may need to secure the connections to alligator clips with tape or by other means. When you get that done, simply plug it into the jack. Now take your multimeter, (if you managed to acquire one, which is really handy to find out if your work was successful) and set it onto the200v dial mark. Turn your 100k potentiometer entirely to one direction, take theprobes of the multimeter, and touch one to each electrode coming out of the box. Turn your box on, you should get a voltagereading between the two electrodes, find out which setting of the potentiometer dial is the lowest and highest, you can go ahead and mark each extreme for your purpose of strength adjustment when needed. Note: Make surethat the wires going and coming from the LED, Switch, Battery Array and Potentiometer have enough slack to not become pulled off when carrying around your Electrifier in case of sudden movements or drops. Once you have everything in your box you can take some tape and secure the battery array that should now be on top of the breadboard to the 'roof' and walls of the project box. Go ahead and put the lid on it, screw it closed (or tapeit for easier access to change the batteries in the future). That's it!
The Bob Beck Magnetic Pulser Components We'll go about in a similar fashion as the above instructions, first we will list the components, where you can get them, etc., then we will move onto the schematic and steps. This project deemed to be a hectic one as the pieces are all over the place, I did my best to keep it as simple as possible, but unfortunately the parts are not entirely electronic components as you will see. If you manage to find them in a more successful way personally it could beeasier. But once you've got them, you've got the hardest part over with. Component Amount Needed 120v Lighted 1 Switch 10A Momentary 1 Pushbutton Switch Rectifier Diode 2 1N5402 80UF 2 150V Capacitor 110v Power Cord 1
Catalog No. CAT#LRS-133
Website Total Price allelectronics.com 1 @ $1.00
CAT#PB-147
allelectronics.com
1 @ $3.35
CAT#1N5402
allelectronics.com
3 @ $.70
75-TVA1418
mouser.com
2 @ $6.44
CAT#LCAC-60
allelectronics.com
1 @ $3.50
Light Bulb Socket with cables Small 60 Watt Light Bulb 2. 5mH Magnetic Coil Photoflash Capacitors 18 Gauge HookUp Wire Perforated Board (one side must be longer than 5") Winged Twisting Wire Connectors ABS Project Box 7" x 5" x 3"
2 2 1 5 1
Item #: 34550
lowes.com or local hardware store N/A ebay.com or local hardware store Sidewinder 2.5mH madisound.com 16AWG Fuji Disposable ebay.com or Cameras amazon.com CAT#18BK-100 allelectronics.com
2 @ $4.20 2 @ ~$4.00 1 @ $14.30 5 @ ~15.00 1 @ $9.95
1
276-1394
radioshack. com or store
1 @ $3.49
Many
CAT#0200
Varies
1
270-1807
allelectronics.com or hardware store radioshack. com or store
1 @ $5.99
In addition to theabove parts, electric tape& a soldering iron will be necessary, if you don't have one already the #for a cheap but good one on allelectronics.com is CAT#IR-30 for $4.50. You may also appreciate the useof a compass and/or a 1/2" diameter washer for testing purposes when you are done. Finally since we will be working with ahigh voltage and photoflash capacitors, I highly recommend the use of rubber or latex gloves during this entire project, and if you happen to make afew too many holes definitely change them for new ones, safety first!
The Bob Beck Magnetic Pulser Schematic and its Steps to Construction Below is the schematic to theBob Beck Magnetic Pulser, printing is recommended, bring your parts out and lay themout on a clear work area and get ready to create your pulser.
Step 1. Make Your Holes Y ou will need to make a total of 6 holes of varying size in the project box that you will be building this pulser into. here are what theholes should correspond to. One hole for each light bulb socket (on the top of the box), preferably near each other, but make sure they are spaced far enough so that when you screw in the bulbs they do not touch each other at all. For the two switches, the momentary button should be placed on the top surfaceof the box, and the lighted switch on oneof the sides of thebox, try to leave space in the center of the project box for your perfboard construction that you will be doing. Finally, two more holes on either end of the shorter sides of the box, one for the AC power cord that you will have to secure on both sides of the hole with electric tape well so that it does not slip in or out any further than it has too. Make sure you have enough cable to reach the light sockets and the lighted switch. The second the hole needs to be on the opposite side of where you made the hole for the AC power cord for the coil that you will construct in a few steps. It should look like this.
Step 2. Make Your Initial Connections
If you look to the schematic, we will be starting from the AC power cord and move along step by step towards thecoil. Firstly, be sure that you do not plug in the AC power cord until the very end, also, only plug it in to a protected power outlet with asurgeprotector also known as GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) it'll keep you safe. There are three wires coming out of the AC Adapter, if you got one with an ending you must clip it off before even being able to get it into the box, so do so if you still haven't. One is black (-) negative, white (+) positive and green for ground. If you look at the lighted switch you will see it has three terminals, one of the terminals has a light-bulb symbol on it, you can now securely solder the ground wire from the AC power cord to this terminal, be sure its theone with thelight bulb symbol it is on either side of the middle terminal. Next, take the white cable from the AC power cord, and tie it (end cap tighteners for cables) with both of the white cables of each light bulb socket. Leave theblack cables coming from each socket hanging for now. Next solder the black cable from the AC power cord onto the opposite terminal (opposite of ground) on the lighted switch.
Step 3. Create Your Coil This step is fairly simple, we will create your magnetic coil (the treatment part of this apparatus). Simply take the Sidewinder coil you ordered, you will see two open ended wires. From the hook-up wires you have, clip two separate3' to 4' (your choice how long you'd like it to be) cables. Then take each ending and solder themto the respective endings of the sidewinder coil, after you have done so, wrap the entire cable from the coil to about thelast 6 inches with electric tape, this part needs to be well insulated and secured while it is being used. Y ou can get an idea of how this looks on theillustration above.
Step 4. Coil to Push Button Switch There are two terminals attached to the underside of the push button switch, pull both ends of the coils cable that you just made into the box, but attach only one to the terminal closest to that side, make sure that when you solder it on that you wrap it with electrical tape, the two wires from each terminal cannot touch unless you want themto via thepush button switch.
Step 5. Creating the First Perfboard Setup For this step we will be connecting together on a single perfboard the two 80uf capacitors (not photoflash), and the two diodes (1N5402).
Note: Make sure you cut asize that will fit snugly into the pre-made grooves in thebox so that it will stay in place while in use, if you must you can use tapeor glue when you are completely finished and have a functioning machine. Below is an image representing roughly what the first perfboard should look like, it's connections and where you need to look to hook them up with wire, soldering, and or twist caps further down the line.
Step 6. Creating the Capacitor Array The next perfboard is going to be holding together our array of photoflash capacitors, if you managed to get your hands on the disposable cameras (with gloves) take themapart, remove the AA battery, remove the camera halves from each other, and you will seea black cylindrical component that is bent over,
straighten it out, and use ascrewdriver to each end of it after you clip it to drain it of any remaining power (make sure to clip the minimumoff so you have enough wire to work with when soldering later). Do this 5 times and you will have to line up each negative pole of the capacitors on the perfboard in series, it should look like this.
Step 7. Completing the Setup and Testing After you have successfully made all your connections, make sure that the lighted switch is in the off position. Close your box with the lid and tape it temporarily shut. Connect your AC power cord, with gloves worn, to your GFCI outlet. Turn the switch on and thelights should momentarily turn on then dim off. when you press the momentary push button, do not hold it down for longer than asecond or so, this is meant to be a short duration circuit. Anyhow, you should be able to hold a compass to the coil and when you press the push button it will attract oneside or the other (North or South) of the compass, the side that attracts the 'North Pole' pointer of thecompass is the North Pole of you coil, you may amrk it to make a note of it, as thenorth side is theideal treatment side. Y ou can check what distance themagnetic field reaches out to by pulling the compass farther away and continuing to pulse until it no longer effects the compasses direction, Alternatively you could try using a metal washer (1/2" diameter) to see how far it flies out when pulsed. That's it!
