ESSENTIAL J
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Reference Guide
ESSENTIAL
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Reference Guide
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The Gemological Institute of America Carlsbad, California 92008 ©2000 The Gemological Institute of America All rights reserved: Protected under the Berne Convention. Printed in the United States.
Table of Contents Introduction
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Setting Styles
2
Rings
4
Ring Findings
12
Earrings
14
Earring Findings
18
Chains
20
Necklaces and Pendants
26
Bracelets
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Necklace, Chain, and Bracelet Findings
36
Brooches
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Brooch Findings
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Cufflinks
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Cufflink Findings
45
Birthstones
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Anniversary Gift List
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Index
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INTRODUCTION Jewelry is our most intimate adornment. It is also one of our most complex—the sheer scope and variety of jewelry types and styles present a challenge to any sales associate, seasoned or novice. And yet, the challenge of selling all kinds of jewelry with confidence can be a welcome one, especially with the Essential Jewelry Reference Guide at your side. One of the most powerful ways to learn about the various styles of jewelry is by looking at them. The Essential Jewelry Reference Guide enables you to do this. It places a representative selection of the popular and traditional jewelry styles in your hands. From cuff bracelets to cufflinks, from omega necklaces to omega-back earrings, most of the jewelry you are likely to sell is here, beautifully photographed and concisely labeled. But the Essential Jewelry Reference Guide offers much more than a closer look at the spectacular array of jewelry available today. This valuable guide links word and image in an easy-to-understand format. Take advantage of the terminology you find within the pages of this vibrant compendium. Industry terms like “kidney wire,” “figaro,” or “bypass ring” are part of the language of jewelry. Your new vocabulary will allow you to serve customers with ease, accuracy, and professional flair. In addition, the Essential Jewelry Reference Guide is organized with the student’s convenience in mind. Jewelry items are grouped by categories (rings, bracelets, and so on). Whether you need specific information for a sale, or just want to browse, the guide is designed to help you expand your expertise quickly and easily. As a helpful plus, the Essential Jewelry Reference Guide includes two customer gift-giving lists—one for birthdays, one for anniversaries—that you’ll refer to often. “A Jewelry Gallery” in your Jewelry Essentials course provides a tantalizing discussion of today’s popular jewelry. The Essential Jewelry Reference Guide expands on that knowledge by taking you on a visual tour of these jewelry styles. Enjoy your journey. ©2000 by GIA. All rights reserved.
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ine jewelry settings cradle precious cargo. From traditional to innovative, their variety is as endless as human creativity itself. And without a beautiful setting to define it, the most stunning of gems remains unfulfilled. Tiny diamonds shimmering like newfallen snow. A ruby ribbon of seamless crimson. These are only two of the wondrous images jewelry settings conjure.
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setting styles
Prong Channel
Pavé
Invisible
Tension
Illusion
Flush
Bezel
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ther than our facial expressions, our hands are our most eloquent attribute. No wonder rings are the most popular jewelry type. We choose a ring not only to adorn our finger, but also to make a statement, a promise, an invitation. Shakespeare’s King Richard III spoke ardently and well when he said, “Look, how my ring encompasseth thy finger, Even so thy breast encloseth my poor heart; Wear both of them, for both of them are thine.” Whether rings conveyed the imprint of a royal seal or sealed a promise of marriage, they hold a place of honor in jewelry history. In modern times, they are equally meaningful. Explore their many messages.
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rings Diamond Solitaire
Diamond Engagement
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Diamond Wedding Sets
Anniversary Bands Diamond bar set
Diamond eternity
Sapphire and diamond
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Wedding Bands
Dome Diamond two-tone Flat
Diamond two-tone combination finish
Two-tone Dome millgrain
Invisible-set diamond
Engraved two-tone
Fashion Bypass
Waterfall
Two-tone freeform Freeform
Cluster
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Stackable
Tri-color Rolling
Teenage (Promise)
Men’s
Diamond
Diamond coin
Signet
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Black onyx and diamond
Black onyx and diamond nugget
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Designer
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Colored Gem and Diamond
Semi-Mounts
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Guard
Wraps
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ring findings Adjustable Shanks
Finger-fit shanks
MAB Superfit®
Heads
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Four-prong round high pinch
Six-prong round low pinch peg
Six-prong round tulip
Four-prong round low base
Six-prong round low base
Six-prong open back buttercup
Six-prong marquise head with point prongs
Six-prong marquise head with V end prongs
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Shanks
Cathedral
Flat
Half round pinch
Half round
Illusion, Cluster, and Trim Illusion setting
Seven-stone top
Eight-stone peg setting
Stone top for man’s ring
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omeo described his Juliet as a rich jewel that graced “the cheek of night” like an earring sweeping the cheek of a darkskinned beauty. Whether they dangle dramatically against the face or nestle demurely at the earlobe, earrings provide bright counterpoint to the changing melody of an expressive countenance. One of the most ancient of jewels, earrings have metamorphosed repeatedly over the centuries in response to fashion and fancy.
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earrings Hoop
Hinged
Non-pierced
Slide
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Cultured Mabé Pearl
Button
Gem-set Post Gem-set Omega Back with Post
Electroform
Diamond Stud
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Designer Drop Gem-set Kidney Wire
Gem-set Hoop and Hinged
Ball and Half-ball Gem-set Lever Back
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earring findings Jackets
Diamond Solitaire Post Mountings
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Posts
“La Pousette” Posts and Clutches
Lever Back
Kidney Wire
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Shepherd’s Hook
Screw Backs
Clutches
Butterfly Clutch
Omega Backs
Eternity Wire
Gem-set Post Mountings
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leaming intertwined links speaking of power and bounty, precious metal chains are timeless in appeal. Thousands of years ago, artisans hand-wrought them of twisted loops of wire. Today, complex software drives machines to knit fantastically intricate chain patterns never before achieved. Kissing a wrist or resting against a breastbone, jewelry chains are always a luxury.
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chains
Omega 21
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Cable wire (top two), round omega (bottom)
Flat gooseneck (top), half-round gooseneck (bottom two)
Byzantine
Twisted serpentine
Serpentine
Beveled herringbone
Herringbone
Double curb
Oval curb
Curb
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Parallel curb
Hollow mariner
Mariner
Singapore
Figaro
Flat figaro
Bowtie figaro
Diamond-cut figaro
Ball
Rope
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Triple rope
French rope
Twisted rope
Cobra
Boston link
Bismarck
Open cable
Double cable
Drawn flat cable
Elongated cable
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Heart
Track
Wheat
C-chain
Snake
Stocking mesh
Fancy double link (top three), lace (bottom two)
Rolo (top), belcher (middle four), “U” (bottom)
Side-by-side
Mirror
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rom the sweet wink of a little girl's locket to the bold spark of a fabulous diamond necklace, jewelry that encircles the throat works instant magic. Necklaces come in myriad forms and styles, and pendants of endless variety often add spice to their charm. In recent years, pearl strands and diamond solitaire pendants have won a place close to the hearts of jewelry lovers. But bright metal collars, sultry “Y” necklaces, and many other looks continue to appeal, now and into the future. Whatever style you choose to wear, necklaces invite others to step closer to your magic spell.
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necklaces and pendants Gem-set
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Cultured Pearl Strand
“Y”
Diamond Solitaire
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Station
Stampato Link
Free-form Slide Diamond Heart
Locket
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Torsade
Collar
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Designer
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orn close to the pulse, bracelets are an intimate pleasure. Primitive artisans fashioned them in the forms of snakes and ram’s heads. Modern bracelet styles can be similarly bold, or as subtle as a whisper. Chain bracelets echo the pattern of their sister neck chains. Cuff bracelets of twisted metal make high-fashion statements. Meanwhile, the diamond tennis bracelet is a coveted classic that spans the generations. And bangles—plain or gem-studded, single or stacked—are simply elegant. The choices are as rich as the world of jewelry itself.
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bracelets Cuff
Diamond Link
Tennis
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Hinged Bangle
I.D.
Medical I.D.
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Gem-set Link
Designer
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necklace, chain, and bracelet findings Pendant Mountings
Four-prong basket solitaire
Cluster
Bezel-set slide
Safety Chains
Jump Rings
Bails
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End Caps
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Clasps
Lobster claw
Spring rings with terminals
Screw barrel
Easy hook
Box
Barrel
Foldover
Single-strand fish hook
Toggle
Multi-strand box
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hat better way to express yourself than to wear a jewel on your lapel or shoulder that says it all without words. Brooches can be simple platinum circles, abstract scribbles of silver, creatures of ruby and emerald, or dainty 14K gold bows. There's doubtless a brooch for anything you want to be, say, or do. Whimsical or dramatic, designer or mainstream, pins and brooches are always in style.
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brooches Electroform
Animal Motif
Circle
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Designer
Floral
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Bar
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brooch findings Pin-backs and Pin-back Components
Tie-tack Safety Clutches
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he cuff link is an ingenious device with more than a mere utilitarian purpose. Today’s cuff links express a mood, a passion, or a sense of tradition. In basic black onyx or set with diamonds and pearls, cuff links let you wear your heart on your French-cuffed sleeve. Show the world what you’re made of and collect cuff links for work, play, and pleasure.
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cufflinks
Onyx
Knot
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Designer
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cufflink findings
Swivel or toggle backs
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Birthstones
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January
Garnet
February
Amethyst
March
Aquamarine, Bloodstone
April
Diamond
May
Emerald
June
Alexandrite, Cultured Pearl, Moonstone
July
Ruby
August
Peridot, Sardonyx
September
Sapphire
October
Opal, Tourmaline
November
Topaz, Citrine
December
Turquoise, Zircon
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Anniversary
Modern Jewelry-Related Gift
Tenth
Diamond jewelry
Eleventh
Fashion jewelry
Twelfth
Pearls
Fourteenth
Gold jewelry
Twentieth
Platinum
Twenty-fifth
Silver
Thirtieth
Diamond
Thirty-fifth
Jade
Fortieth
Ruby
Forty-fifth
Sapphire
Fiftieth
Gold
Fifty-fifth
Emerald
Sixtieth
Diamond
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Index A Adjustable shanks, 12 Animal motif brooch, 39 Anniversary bands, 6 Anniversary gift list, 48 B Bails, 36 Ball chain, 23 Ball earrings, 17 Bar brooch, 40 Barrel clasp, 37 Bar-set band, 6 Belcher chain, 25 Bezel-set slide solitaire, 36 Bezel setting, 3 Birthstone list, 46 Bismark chain, 24 Black onyx and diamond men’s ring, 8 Black onyx and diamond nugget-style men’s ring, 8 Boston-link chain, 24 Box clasps, 37 Bracelet, designer, 35 Bracelet, gem-set link, 35 Bracelet, I.D., 34 Bracelet, medical I.D., 34 Bracelet, tennis, 33 Bracelet findings, 36-37 Bracelets, 32-37 Bracelets, cuff, 33 Bracelets, hinged bangle, 34 Bracelets, diamond link, 33 Brooch, animal motif, 39 Brooch,bar, 40 Brooch, circle, 39 Brooch, designer, 40 Brooch, electroform, 39 Brooch, findings, 41 Brooch, f loral, 40 Brooches, 38-41 Button earrings, 16 Bypass ring, 7 Byzantine chain, 22 C Cable chain, double, 24 Cable chain, drawn-f lat, 24 Cable chain, elongated, 24 Cable chain, open, 24
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Cable wire chains, 22 Cathedral shank, 13 C-chain, 24 Chain findings, 36-37 Chains, 20-25 Chains, safety, 36 Channel setting, 3 Circle brooch, 39 Clasps, 37 Cluster mounting, pendant, 36 Cluster ring, 7 Clutch, butterf ly earring, 19 Clutches, earring, 19 Clutches, tie-tack safety, 41 Cobra chain, 24 Coin men’s ring, 8 Collar necklace, 30 Colored gem and diamond rings, 9 Combination finish two-tone diamond band, 7 Cuff link findings, 45 Cuff links, 42-45 Cuff links, designer, 44 Cuff links, knot, 43 Cuff links, onyx, 43 Cultured mabé pearl earrings, 16 Cultured pearl strand, 28 Curb chain, oval, 22 Curb chain, 22 Curb chain, double, 22 Curb chain, parallel, 23 D Designer bracelets, 35 Designer brooch, 40 Designer cuff links, 44 Designer drop earrings, 17 Designer necklaces, 31 Designer rings, 9 Diamond and colored gem rings, 9 Diamond bands, 6, 7 Diamond engagement rings, 5 Diamond heart pendants, 29 Diamond link bracelet, 33 Diamond men’s rings, 8 Diamond solitaire necklaces, 28 Diamond solitaire pendant, 28 Diamond solitaire post mountings, earrings, 18 Diamond solitaire rings, 5 Diamond stud earrings, 16
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Diamond wedding sets, 6 Dome band, 7 Dome millgrain band, 7 Double-link chain, fancy, 25 Drop earrings, designer, 17
G Gem-set earrings, 16-17 Gem-set necklaces, 27 Gooseneck chains, 22 Guard, 11
E Earring findings, 18-19 Earrings, 14-20 Easy hook clasp, 37 Eight-stone peg setting, 13 Electroform brooch, 39 Electroform earrings, 16 End caps, 36 Engraved two-tone band, 7 Eternity bands, 6 Eternity wire, 19
H Half-ball earrings, 17 Half-round gooseneck chain, 22 Half-round pinch shank, 13 Half-round shank, 13 Heads, 12 Heart chain, 25 Herringbone chain, 22 Herringbone chain, beveled, 22 Hinged bangle bracelets, 34 Hinged earrings, 15, 17 Hinged earrings, gem-set, 17 Hoop earrings, 15, 17 Hoop earrings, gem-set, 17
F Fashion rings, 7 Figaro chain, 23 Figaro chain, bowtie, 23 Figaro chain, diamond-cut, 23 Figaro chain, f lat, 23 Findings, bracelet, 36-37 Findings, brooch, 41 Findings, chain, 36-37 Findings, cluster, 13 Findings, cuff link, 45 Findings, earring, 18-19 Findings, illusion, 13 Findings, kidney wire, 18 Findings, lever back, 18 Findings, necklace, 36-37 Findings, ring, 12-13 Findings, trim, 13 Finger-fit shanks, 12 Fish hook clasp, single-strand, 37 Flat band, 7 Flat gooseneck chain, 22 Flat shank, 13 Floral brooch, 40 Flush setting, 3 Foldover clasp, 37 Four-prong basket solitaire mounting, pendant, 36 Four-prong round high pinch head, 12 Four-prong round low base head, 12 Freeform ring, 7 Freeform slide pendant, 29 Freeform two-tone ring, 7
I Illusion setting, 3, 13 Invisible setting, 3 Invisible-set diamond band, 7 J Jackets, earring, 18 Jump rings, 36 K Kidney wire earring finding, 18 Kidney wire earrings, gem-set, 17 Knot cuff links, 43 L Lace chain, 25 “La Pousette” earring clutches, 18 “La Pousette” earring posts, 18 Lever back earring findings, 18 Lever back earrings, gem-set, 17 Link necklace stampato, 29 Lobster claw clasp, 37 Lockets, 29 M MAB Superfit® adjustable shank, 12 Mariner chain, 23 Mariner chain, hollow, 23 Men’s rings, 8
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Mirror chain, 25 Mountings, pendant, 36 Multi-strand box clasp, 37 N Necklace findings, 36-37 Necklaces and pendants, 26-31 Necklaces, gem-set, 27 Non-pierced earrings, 19 O Omega back earrings, gem-set, 16 Omega backs, 19 Omega chains, 21, 22 Onyx cuff links, 43 P Pavé setting, 3 Pendant mountings, 36 Pendants, designer, 31 Pin-backs and components, brooch, 41 Post earrings, gem-set, 16 Post-mountings, diamond solitaire, 18 Post mountings, gem-set, 19 Posts, earring, 18 Promise rings, 8 Prong setting, 3 R Ring findings, 12-13 Ring guard, 11 Ring shanks, 12-13 Ring semi-mounts, 10 Ring wraps, 11 Rings, 4-13 Rolling ring, 8 Rolo chain, 25 Rope chain, 23 Rope chain, French, 24 Rope chain, triple, 24 Rope chain, twisted, 25 Round omega chains, 22 S Safety chains, 36 Safety clutches, tie-tack, 41 Screw backs, 19 Screw barrel clasp, 37 Semi-mounts, 10 Serpentine chain, 22 Serpentine chain, twisted, 22 Setting styles, 2-3 Seven-stone top, 13
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Shanks, 12, 13 Shepherd’s hook, 19 Side-by-side chain, 25 Signet men’s ring, 8 Singapore chain, 24 Single-strand fish hook clasp, 37 Six-prong marquise head with point, prongs, 12 Six-prong marquise head with V-end prongs, 12 Six-prong open-back buttercup head , 12 Six-prong round low base head, 12 Six-prong round low pinch peg head, 12 Six-prong round tulip head, 12 Slide bezel-set solitaire, 36 Slide pendant, freeform, 29 Snake chain, 25 Spring ring clasps with terminals, 37 Stackable rings, 8 Stampato link necklace, 29 Station necklace, 29 Stocking mesh chain, 25 Stone top, men’s ring, 13 Straight-line link bracelet, diamond, 33 Swivel back cuff link findings, 45 T Teenage rings, 8 Tennis bracelet, 33 Tension setting, 3 Tie-tack safety clutches, 41 Tin cup necklace, 29 Toggle back cuff link findings, 45 Toggle clasp, 37 Torsade necklace, 30 Track chain, 25 Tri-color rolling ring, 8 Trim finding, 13 Two-tone band, 7 Two-tone diamond band, 7 Two-tone combination finish diamond band, 7 Two-tone engraved band, 7 Two-tone freeform fashion ring, 7 U “U” chain, 25 W Waterfall ring, 7 Wedding bands, 7 Wheat chain, 25 Wraps, 11 Y “Y” necklace, 28
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Acknowledgments The Gemological Institute of America gratefully acknowledges the following people and organizations for their assistance in providing some of the gems, jewelry and photography used in this assignment: Julius Braun, Collection of Buddy Braun, 9 Bulgari, 31 (bottom) Gold Rush, 40 (top right) Nicholas Logsdon, Facets Studio, 31 (top) Platinum Guild International, Brooch by Link Wachler & Sons, 40 (top left) Michael M. Scott, 47
Photo Credits ©© GIA & Tino Hammid/photography, 17
©© Steve Kretchmer, Robert Weldon/photography, 3 © Shane McClure/photography, 40 (top right)
© Robert Weldon/photography, 44 © ©© Harold & Erica Van Pelt/photography, 47
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