-
_:_-
-
-
- --- -.:::---= -~- - -
--
__:: _!!__=_ -
-
«
----
-
XA-ZF REPAIR MANUAL
XA/ ZF SERIES. WORKSHOP MANUAL FORD MOTOR COMPANY OF AUSTRALIA LIMITED Registered Office: CAMPBELLFIELO, VICTORIA Incorporated in Victoria
Copyright -
Ford Motor Company of Australia Limited
Reproduction In whole or In part prohibited without written approval Registered In Australia for transmission by post as a book
Printed by The Dominion Press-Hedges & Bell , Maryborough, Vic.
·~
FOREWORD This manual provides Nlformation for the proper servicing of the Ford Falcon-Fairlane. The descriptions and specifications con-
.
tained in this manual were in effect at the time the manual was approved for printing.
The Ford Motor Company of Australia
Limited reserves the right to discontinue models at any time or change specifications or design, without notice and without incurring obligation.
FORD MOTOR COMPANY OF AUSTRALIA LIMITED (INCORPORATED IN VICTORIAI
MILIOUINI, VICTOIIA
FALCON FAIRLANE w~:~~~~P ·· oROUP 1 PAGE PART 1·1- · Vehicle Identification XA/ZF Series
1-2
PART 1·2-
1-4
Accessories
PART 1-1
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION FORD FALCON -
FAIRLANE
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION (XA MODELS) (ZF MODELS)
~PREFIX BODY
SER. NO.
SIDO NO.
MOPEL
I II II II TRANS. RR.AX. FT.AX. PAINT 01 II II . II II ENGINE
BRK. BSTR.,
s. v.o.r
II G. V~.W~.,;:===::;-,-:-L:-BS:-.____.
TRIM
I
I I
I 1......_ ......
f:ORDf
·D
SEA Tl NG CAP
WAS. MANUFACTURED BY FORD MOTOR COMPANY OF AUSTRALIA LTD. TO COMPLY WITH AUSTRALIAN DESIGN RULES NOS.
I 4, SA, 7, 20
THIS PLATE IS AFFIXED WITH THE APPROVAL OF THE AUSTRALIAN MOTOR VEHICLE CERTIFICATION BOARD
Q
QLocation: Left hand Upper Firewall Panel. Engine
Interpretation:
Code
Engine Displacement
Prefix: Manufacturers use only.
E
200 CID Low Octane
Serial No.: Manufacturers use only.
G
200 CID
J
250 CID Low Octane 250 CID IV
Product Line
L y
302 CID 2V (Disc Brakes Mandatory)
Digit 3
Model Year
K
351 CID 2V (Disc Brakes Mandatory)
Digit 4
Body Style
T
351 CID 4V (Disc Brakes Mandatory)
Digit 5
Series
M
250 CID 2V (Disc Brakes Mandatory)
Sido No.: Dealer Order No. Model: Digits 1 & 2
1-3
PART 1-1-VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION
TRANSMISSION
TRIM
•.
Code
Type
J
3 Speed Column Shift 199333 Series
N
3 Speed Column Shift 199332& 199331 Series (All Synchro) 4 Speed Floor Shift Manual RUG AF & RUG BF
Colour
Code A
Blue
B
Black
G
Green
p
Parchment
R
Red
s
Saddle
Y.
Burgundy
u
Dark Grey**
PAINT
w
White
One letter indicates single tone. Two letters .indicate tu-tone, the first signifying the upper colour, and the second, the lower colour.
**Available on Fleet Orders Only.
L R
3 Speed Cruisomatic Column Shift
B
T. Bar Cruisomatic
.
Code A B
c D
z
G M I N R
u y
3 4 7 8 J
Colour Medium Yellow Onyx Black Beige Yellow Wild Violet (Met) Turquoise Blue Jewel Green (Met) Burgundy Copper (Met) Ultra White Lime Green (Met) Bright Red Dark Green (Met) Dark Brown (Met) Dark Blue (Met) Bright Lime Green (Met)
.
.•:
PART 1-2
ACCESSORIES
The following items are Ford Motor Company approved accessories for the XA Falcon and ZF Fairlane range of vehicles. These accessories are available through all authorised Ford dealers. Item
Part No.
Insect Screen - XA -ZF Sun Visor - Exterior - Steel - Primed -Mesh - Black Vinyl - Beige Vinyl Kit ~ Sun Visor Attaching Hardware Venetian Shades-Sedan-White -Sedan-Black Rear Quarter Window-Wagon Weather Shields-Tinted-R.H. (Vented door)
-Clear-R.H.
,
-Tinted-L.H. '' -Tinted-R.H. (Ventless door) -Clear-R.H. " -Tinted-L.H. " Kit - Windscreen Protector
XA 18690A ZF 18690 A XA 18236 A XA 18236 B XA 18236 C XA 18236 D XA 18235 A XA 18246A XA 18246 B XA 18247 A XA 18492 A XA 18492 B XA 18493 A XA XA XA XA
Item BODYSIDE PROTECTION MOULDING Kit - Bodyside Mouldings - XA Sed. -ZF -XA Ute/Van - XAWag. Childs Safety Harness Totguard - Child Safety Seat
Part No.
XA XA XA XA
19600A 19000B 196000 19600 E
XW 5861204A XW5861205A
18492 C 18492 D 18493 B 19000A
RADIOS and ANTENNAS Radio Kit - Deluxe Push Button (Less Aerial) XA 18805 A Radio Kit - Delu..x.e Manual (Less Aerial) XA 18805 B XA 18805 C Radio Kit- "Super Fringe" Deluxe - Push Button (Less Aerial) ZA 18805 D Radio Kit- "Super Fringe" Deluxe - Manual (Less Aerial) Radio/Stereo -Basic Unit (Less Aerial) XA 19A035 A - Components Kit XA 18875 AS (Less Aerial) XW 18813 B Radio Aerial - Motorized XW 18813C - Lockdown -Normal XW 18813A XR 18813.A -Rear Deck Radio Extension Speaker XA 18875 A XW 18A805A Kit - Radio Earthing - V/8 Only XA 18813AA Radio Aerial-Base Gasket Kit-Falcon
FLOOR MATS Rubber - Black (High Pile) - Blue - Red - Grey - Sandy Brown Rubber - Black Deluxe -Blue -Red - Grey - Sandy Brown
R6 R6 . R6 R6 R6 R6 R6 R6 R6 R6
- 11 -12 - 13 - 151 -1 52 - 155A - 155B -155C -155D -1 55E
1-5
PART 1-2- ACCESSORIES Item TOW-BARS- Less Goose Neck Sedan XA ZF Station Wagon Utility and Van Goose Neck - Highlift Sedan Station Wagon ZF Goose Neck Painted Sedan XA 19B011 A XA 19B011 B Station Wagon Utility and Van XA 19B011 C ZF ZF 19B001 A Kit - Rear Spring Helper
Part No. XA 19A009 A ZF 19A009A XA 19A009B XA 19A009C XA 19B012A XA 19B012 B ZF 19B012A Chromed XA 19C011 A XA 19C011 B XA 19C011 C ZA 19C011 B XW5A589A
Vehicle Trailer Electrical Installation Kit XT 14A461 B Vehicle Trailer Electrical Connection Socket Assembly XR 14B461 A Vehicle Trailer Electrical Connection Plug XR 14C461 A XR 13350A Flasher Unit - 3 lamp MIRRORS Door Mounted- L.H. Caravan Mirror - Telescopic Towing- Western Type Prismatic Day/Night Mirror Vanity Mirror and Tissue Dispenser Vanity Mirror- Glove Box Mounted
XA.l8402A XR18402B XW 18402 E CH 18402A R6-131 XW 17A679A
LIGHTS Kit. - Head Lamp - Quartz Halogen Kit - Head Lamp (Sev. Type)
XA 18207 A HP 18207 A
- Quartz Halogen - Hi Performance Headlamp Guards - Hinged, Chromed PETROL CAP Chromed Locking- G.T. Locking- Except G.T.
XR 13005 A
XA 9030 A XA 9030 C XA 9030 B
Item
Part No.
WHEEL DISCS and COVERS Deluxe- Except wj- Radial Ply Tyres XW 18303A XW 18303B w/- Radial Ply Tyres Full Wheel Cover - XA ARD2DA 1130BA Full Wheel Cover - ZF ARD20A 1130AA Lock - Remote Control Deck Release -XA -ZF Foot Tyre Pump BUMPER GUARD KIT Front - XA - Sed. & Wagon Rear - XA - Sed. Only Rear - ZF - Sed. Only FENDER ORNAMENT KIT BONNET ORNAMENT KIT MUD FLAP KIT - Front - Rear DOOR EDGE GUARD KIT - Front & Rear - Front Only ROCKER PANEL MOULDING KIT - XA ROCKER PANEL& WHEEL ARCH. Moulding Kit
.
ELECTRIC CLOCK CIGAR LIGHTER KIT Kit - Highnote Hom Kit - Electronic Car Alarm liTTER BIN KIT ROOF RACK -Except Station Wagon -Station Wagon LUGGAGE RACK- Chromed SKI RACK DUST REFLECTOR KIT -Station Wagon ROPE RAIL KIT LICENCE PLATE FRAMES BATTERY CABLE lJOOSTER KIT -Medium Duty -Heavy Duty STEERING WHEEL - RALLY Kit - Hood Lock Pin Kit - Front Spoiler Kit - Rear Spoiler Kit - Sports Road Wheel , Kit - Security Lock Nut (Sports Road Wheel)
XA 5443200A ZF 5443200 A N 17052 A XA 18412 A XA 18412 B ZF 18412 A XA 16Al64A XA 16607 A XA 16268 A XA 16360A XA 5420910 B XA 5420910 A XA 18243 A XA 18243 B XA 15000A XA 15A044A XA 13801 C XY 19005 A XW 19D504A XR 18320A XR 18320B XW 18320C EH 18320 A XA 19008 A XA 19010 A R6-135 R6-146 R6-147 XA 3600KT XA 16700KT XA 17A779KT R6-68A XY 1007KT XY 1A012KT
.
.~
.
REFERENCE TO SERVICE INFORMATION AND NOTES Date
Letter No.
Page
Brief Detail
.
:
FALCON FAIRLANE w~:~~~~P
GROUP 2
PAGE
PART
2-1
General Broke Service
PART
2-2 . Brake System
2-9
PART
2-3
2-25
Specifications
2-2
GROUP 2~BRAKES
2-2
PART
2-1
GENERAL BRAKE SERVICE
~
1 Diagnoiis and Testing .. .... ·•···~ ...... ...... ..... , ...... Preliminaey Tests ... ... .. .... ...... ... ... .. .. .. ...... ...... Road Test ...... ...... ... ... ...... .. .... .... .. .. .. .. .. .... ...... 2 Common Adjustments and Repairs ...... ...... ...... Parking Brake Linkage Adjustment Hydraulic System Bleeding ...... ...... ...... ... ...
II
.... 2-2 2-2 2-3 2-3 2- 3 2-3
Secdoll ... 3. Cleaning and Inspection .. .... ... ... .. .. ,. ~..... 2-4 Disc Brake Trouble Symptoms and Po11ible 2-6 Causes .............................................. .. Drum Brake Trouble Symptoms and Possible 2-7 Causes ............................................... ..
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
PRELIMINARY TESTS FLUID LEVEL Always check the fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoirs before performing the test procedures. If necessary, top up the master cylinder reservoirs to the level indicated on the side of the reservoir, using only the specified brake fluid, Motorcraft Brake Fluid.
AUTOMATIC ADJUSTERS Push the brake pedal down as far as it will go while the car is standing. If the car is equipped with power brakes, the engine should be running while making this test. If the brake pedal travels more than half-way between the released position and the floor, check the automatic adjusters for being inoperative. To check adjuster operation, make several sharp reverse stops (equivalent to 50 pounds pedal pressure) with a forward stop before each. Move the vehicle forward for a distance of approximately ten feet; then reverse for ten feet, apply the brakes sharply and hold the brake pedal down until the vehicle is completely stopped. This will actuate the brake self-adjusters. If these stops do not bring the brake pedal travel within specification, make several additional forward and reverse stops as outlined above. If the second series of stops do not bring the brake pedal travel within specifications, remove the brake drums and check the brake adjusters to make sure $ey are functioning. Check the brake linings for wear or damage. R,epair or replace all worn or damaged parts and nonfunctioning adjusters. Adjust the brake lining outside diameter to the
approximate inside diameter of the brake drum. If all the brake adjusters, brake drums and linings are functional and the brake travel is not within specifications, check the pedal linkage for missing or worn bushings, or loose attachments. Bleed the brakes.
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM If the car is equipped with power brakes, shut off the engine and ex- · haust all vacuum from the booster system before performing this tesL Depress the brake pedal and hold it in the applied position. If the pedal gradually falls away under this pressure, the hydraulic system is leaking. Check all tubing, hoses, and connections for leaks. If the brake pedal movement feels spongy, bleed the hydraulic system to remove air from the lines and cylinder. See Hydraulic System Bleeding, Page 2-3. Also, check for leaks or insufficient fluid.
- POWER BRAKE FUNCTIONAL TEST With the transmission in neutral, stop the engine and apply the parking brake. Depress the service brake pedal several times to exhaust all vacuum in the system. Then, depress the pedal and hold it in the applied position. Start the engine. If the vacuum system is operating the pedal will tend to fall away under foot pressure and less pressure will be required to hold the pedal in the applied position. If no action is felt, the vacuum booster system is not functioning. Refer to Table .1, Page 2-6. For booster removal and installation procedures refer to Page 2-20.
For cleaning and inspection refer - to Page _2-4.
LOCKED BRAKES Should one of the brakes be locked and the car must be moved, open the brake cylinder bleeder screw long enough to let out a few drops of brake fluid. This bleeding opera-
don will release the brakes, but it will not correct the cause or the trouble. BRAKE WARNING LIGHT The three tests listed below are applicable to all models with either drum or disc brakes. 1. Tum the ignition switch to the ON position. If the light on the brake warning lamp illuminates, the condition may be caused by: (a) a defective switch. (b) grounded switch wires. (c) the differential valve switch not having been reset after having been activated. · The differential valve switch is spring loaded. and does not have to be reset, however it must be removed from the .master cylinder to allow the differential valve to centralise. The valve is self-centering only when the switch is removed. When either system is being bled the switch must be removed to prevent damage to the plunger. Except on G.T. vehicles when the valve must be centralised by relieving pressure in the appropriate system after bleeding.
2. Tum the ignition switch to the START position. If the brake warning lamp does not light, check the bulb and wiring for defects and repair or replace as necessary.
PART 2-1-GENERAL BRAKE SERVICE 3. If the brake warning lamp does not light when a pressure differential condition exists in the brake system, -the condition may be caused by: (a) burnt out warning lamp. (b) inoperative warning lamp switch. (c) open circuit in switch to lamp
wiring.
mph to check for the c:xistence of the trouble symptoms listed in Table 1 , Page 2-6 with the exception of those resolved in the preliminary tests and brake chatter. For each of the symptoms encountered, check and eliminate the causes which are also listed in Table 1. To check for brake chatter or surge apply the brakes lightly from approximately 50 mph.
ROAD TEST
The car should be road tested only if the brakes will safely stop the car. Apply the brakes at a speed of 25-30
B
If the preliminary tests show that the booster is inoperative or if a hard pedal condition still exists after eliminating the cause of Hard Pedal
2-3
listed in Table 2, Page 2-7 the trouble may be caused by vacuum leakage. Disconnect the vacuum line at the booster, remove the vacuum manifold and check valve assembly, and look for a sticking or faulty check valve. Check all vacuum connections for leakage or obstruction. Check all hoses for a leaking or collapsed condition. Repair or replace parts as necessary. If the trouble persists, replace the vacuum booster. The booster is not a serviceable item and if found defective must be replaced.
COMMON ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
The brake systems of all car models are designed to permit full stroke of the master cylinder when the brake pedal is fully depressed. No brake pedal clearance adjustment is required or provided for. With the brake master cylinder outlet lineS disconnected and the brake pedal fully depress~ at approximately 50 lbs. force, the brake pedal assembly should not touch the dash panel if the brake system is correctly · installed. PARKING BRAKE LINKAGE ADJUSTMENTALL MODELS
Check the parking brake cables when the brakes are fully reltased. If the cables are loose, adjust them as follows: 1. Fully release the parking brake
handle. 2. Raise the car. 3. Turn the adjustment nut forward against the equalizer until a moderate drag is felt when turning rear wheels. 4. Slacken the adjustment until the rear wheels are just free to rotate. HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING
When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for repair or replacement, air may get into the lines and cause spongy pedal action. Bleed the hydraulic system after it has been properly connected to be sure that all air is expelled from the brake cylindel'$ or disc brake calipers and lines. The hydraulic system can be bled manually or with pressure bleeding equipment. · With disc brakes, more pumping . of the pedal is required and more frequent checking of the master cylinder may be necessary while bleeding.
On all vehicles except the G.T. the warning light switch must be removed from the master cylinder prior to bleeding the system or after brake malfunction; if this is not done the switch may·be damaged. MANUAL BLEEDING
The primary and secondary (front and rear) hY.draulic brake systems are individual -systems and are bled separately. Bleed the longest line first on the individual system being serviced. During the complete bleeding - operation, DO NOT allow the reservoir to run dry. Keep the master cylinder reservoirs filled with Motorcraft brake -fluid. Do not mix low temperature brake fluids with the ~ci fied fluid during the bleeding operations. Never re-use brake fluid which has been drained from the hydraulic system.
1. To bleed the secondary (rear) brake system, position a suitable i in. ring spanner (Fig. 1) on the bleeder fitting on the brake wheel cylinder. Attach a rubber drain tube to the bleeder fitting. The end of the tube should fit snugly around the bleeder fitting. 2. Submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid, and loosen the bleeder fitting approximately ! of a turn. 3. Push the brake pedal down slowly through its full travel. Close the bleeder fitting, then return the pedal to the full release position. Repeat this operation until air bubbles cease to appear at the submerged end of the bleeder tube. 4. When the fluid is completely free of air bubbles, close the bleeder fitting and remove the bleeder tube.
FIG. 1 - Wrench for Bleeding Brake Hydraulic System 5. Repeat this procedure at the brake wheel cylinder on the opposite side. Refill the master cylinder reservoir after each wheel cylinder is bled and install the master cylinder cover and gasket. Be sure the diaphragm type gasket is properly positioned in the master cylinder cover. When the bleeding operation is completed, the fluid level should be filled to within i ln. of the top of the reservoirs. 6. If the primary (front brake) system is to be bled, repeat steps 1-5 at the left front brake caliper or cylinder and ending at the right front brake caliper or cylinder. 7. On disc brake equipped models be sure that the front brake pistons are returned to their normal positions and that the pad and lining assemblies are properly seated by depressing the brake pedal several times until normal pedal travel is established. 8~ Replace the warning light switch. *G.T. only. Centralize the differential valve (Page 2-4). PRESSURE BLEEDING
Bleed the longest lines first. The bleeder tank should contain enough new Brake Fluid to ·complete the bleeding operation. Use Motorcraft Brake Fluid. Do not mix low temperature brake fluid with the specified brake fluid during the bleeding operations. Never
GROUP 2-BRAKES
2-4 re-use brake fluid that has been drained from the hydraulic system. The tank should be charged with approximately 10 to 30 pounds of air pressure. Never exceed 50 pounds pressure. 1. Remove the warning light switch from the master cylinder prior to bleeding the system. If this is not done the switch may be
damaged. 2. Clean all dirt from the master cylinder reservoir cover. 3. Remove the master cylinder reservoir cover and rubber gasket, and fill the master cylinder reservoir with the specified brake fluid. Install the pressure bleeder adapter tool to the master cylinder and attach the bleeder tank hose to the fitting on tHe adaptor. Master cylinder pressure bleeder adaptor tools can be obtained from the various manufacturers of pressure bleeding equipment. Follow the instructions of the manufacturer when installing tlte adaptor. 4. If the rear wheel cylinders, the secondary brake system, are to be bled, position a i inch ring spanner (Fig. 1) on the bleeder fitting on the left rear brake wheel cylinder. Attach a bleeder tube to the bleeder fitting. The end of the tube should fit snugly around the bleeder fitting. 5. Open the valve on the bleeder tank to admit pressurized brake fluid to the master cylinder reservoir. 6. Submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled
EJ
with clean brake fluid, and loosen the bleeder fitting. 7. When air bubbles cease to appear in the fluid at the submerged end of the bleeder tube, close the bleeder fitting and remove the tube. 8. Repeat steps 3 to 7 at the right rear wheel cylinder. 9. If the vehicle is equipped with disc brakes, repeat steps 4 to 7, starting at the left front disc caliper and ending at the right front disc caliper. 10. If the vehicle contains drumtype front brakes and the primary (front) brake system is to be bled, repeat steps 4 to 7 starting at the left front wheel cylinder ending at the right front wheel cylinder. 11. When the bleeding operation is completed, close the bleeder tank valve and remove the tank hose from the adaptor fitting. 12. On disc brake equipped vehicles, be sure that the front brake pistons are returned to their normal positions and that the shoe and lining assemblies are properly seated by depressing the brake pedal several times until normal pedal travel is established. 13. Remove the Pressure Bleeder Adaptor Tool. Fill the master cylinder reservoirs to within i inch of the top. Install the master cylinder cover and gasket. Be sure the diaphragm type gasket is properly positioned in the master cylinder cover. 14. Replace the warning light switch in the tntiter cylinder.
*CENTRAUZING THE PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL VALVE. G.T. ONLY. After a failure of the primary (front brake) orsecondary(rearbrake) system has been repaired and bled, the dual-brake warning light will usually continue to be illuminated due to the pressure differential valve remaining in the off-center position. To centralize the pressure differential valve and turn off the warning light after a repair operation, a pressure differential or unbalance condition must be created in the opposite brake system from the one that was repaired or bled last. 1. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC or ON position. Loosen the differential valve assembly brake tube nut at the outlet port on the opposite side of the brake system that was wheel balanced, repaired and/or bled last. Depress the brake pedal slowly to build line pressure until the pressure differential valve is moved to a centralized position and the brake warning light goes out; then, immediately tighten the outlet port tube nut. 2. Check the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoirs and flU them to within 1/4 inch of the top with the specified brake fluid, if necessary. 3. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 4. Before driving the vehicle, check the operation of the brakes and be sure that a firm pedal is obtained.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
DISC BRAKES 1. Remove the wheel and tyre and the shoe and lining assemblies as outlined on Page 2-22. 2. On all models make thickness measurements with a micrometer across the thinnest section of the shoe and lining. If the assembly has worn to a thickness of 0.230 inch Girling .190 P.B.R. (shoe and lining together) or 0.030 inch (lining material only) at any one of three measuring locations or if there is more than 0.125 taper from end to end or if lining shows evidence of brake fluid contamination, replace all (4) shoe and lining assemblies on both front wheels. 3. Check the caliper to spindle attaching bolts torque. Torque them to specification, if required. 4. To check rotor runout, first
eliminate the wheel bearing end play by tightening the adjusting nut. After tightening the nut, check to see that the rotor can still be rotated. S. · Clamp a dial indicator to the caliper housing so that the stylus contacts the rotor at a point approximately 1 inch from the outer edge. Rotate the rotor and take an indicator reading. If the reading exceeds 0. 003 inch total lateral runout on the indicator, replace or· resurface the disc brake rotor. The following requirement must be met when resurfacing disc brake rotors. The finished braking surface of the rotor must be flat and parallel within 0. 007 inch; lateral runout must not exceed 0. 003 inch total indicator reading, braking surfaces are to be 80/15 micro inches. On all models the minimum limit-
ing dimension from the inboard bearing cup to the inboard rotor face and the minimum rotor thickness I'ALCCJM.I'AIRLANE --~
.0.6 MAX
FIG. 2 - Disc Brake Rotor Service Limits
PART 2.-1-GENERAL BRAKE SERVICE dimension, must be observed when removing material from the rotor braking surfaces. A disc and gauge bar (R1102-A) is to be used when checking minimum dimensions (Fig. 2). When the periphery of the disc contacts the gauge bar the rotor must be replaced. When the runout check is finished be sure to adjust the bearings as outlined in group 3 in order to prevent bearing failure. 8. Check the rotor for scoring. Minor scores can be removed with a fine emery cloth. If the rotor is ~cessively scored, refinish it as outlined in step 5 or replace the rotor, if required. 7. ViSually check the caliper. If the caliper housing is leaking it should be replaced. If a seal is leaking the caliper must be disassembled and new seals installed. If a piston is seized in the bore a new caliper housing is required. 8. If upon disassembly the caliper is found to be distorted or damaged or if the cylinder bores are scored or excessively worn replace the caliper assembly. Check the brake hoses for signs of cracking, leaks or abrasion. Replace · them if necessary.
front end components, to avoid bending or damaging the rotor splash shield on full right or left wheel turns. 8. Riding of the brake pedal (common on left foot applications) should be avoided during vehicle operations. . 7. The wheel and tyre must be removed separately from the brake rotor, unlike drum brakes where the wheel, tyrc and drum are removed as a unit. 8. On Girling floating caliper type disc brakes whenever the caliper is removed the caliper locating pins and insulators should be replaced. 9. On floating caliper type disc brakes the caliper assembly must be removed from the spindle prior to removal of the shoe and lining assemblies. 10. On floating caliper type disc brakes the calipers must not be interchanged from one side to the other. When the caliper is installed on its proper anchor plate and spindle the bleeder screw will point to the rear of the vehicle (Fig. 3). If a BLEEDER SCREW FACING THIS DIRECTION.
DISC BRAKE SERVICE PRECAUTIONS
1. Grease ·or any other foreign material must be kept off the caliper assembly, surfaces of the rotor and external surfaces of the hub during service operations. Handling of the rotor and caliper assemblies should be done in a way to avoid deformation of the brake rotor and nicking or scratching of brake linings. 2. If a caliper piston is removed for any reason, the piston seal must be replaced. 3. During removal and installation of a wheel assembly, exercise care not to interfere with and damage the caliper splash shield or the bleeder screw fitting. 4. Front wheel bearing end play is critical and must be within specifications. 5. Be sure the vehicle is centred on the hoist before servicing any
H
1~1-A
2-5
DRUM BRAKES
1. Remove the wheel from the drum, and remove the drum as outlined on Page 2-15. Wash all the parts except the brake shoes in a cleaning fluid and dry with compressed air. 2. Brush the dust from the carrier plate and interior of the brake drum. 3. Inspect the brake shoes for excessive lining wear or shoe damage. If the lining is worn to within inch of the rivet heads or shoe for . bonded brakes or if the shoes are damaged, they must be replaced. Replace the lining in axle sets. Prior to replacement of the lining, the drum diameter should be checked to determine if oversize linings must be installed. 4. Check the condition of the brake shoes, retracting springs, and drum for signs of overheating. If the shoes have a slight blue colouring, or if the springs show a change in free length, indicating overheating, replacement of the retracting and hold down springs is necessary. Overheated springs lose their tension and could cause the new lining to wear prematurely if they are not replaced. 5. If the car has 30,000 or more miles of operation on the brake linings or signs of overheating are present when relining brakes, the wheel cylinders should be disassembled and inspected for wear and dirt in the cylinder. The cylinder cups and other parts contained in the overhaul kit should be replaced, thus avoiding future problems. 8. Inspect all other brake parts and replace any that are worn or damaged. 7. Inspect the brake drums and if necessary, refmish. Refer to Page 2·21 for refinishing.
n
FIG. 3- Floating Caliper Installed (Girling) caliper is installed on the wrong side
BRAKE BOOSTER
of the vehicle, it is not possible to bleed the system properly. 11. Do not attempt to clean or restore oil or grease soaked brake linings. When contaminated linings are found, brake linings must be replaced in complete axle sets.
Check the booster operation as noted on Page 2,2. Power Brake Functional Test. If the brake booster is damaged or defective, replace it with a new booster. The brake booster is serviced only as an assembly.
GROUP 2-BRAKES
2-6 TAILE 1
DISC BRAKE TROUBLE SYMPTOMS AND POSSIBLE CAUSES TROUBLE SYMPTOMS J EXCESSIVE PEDAL TRAVEL
CORRECTION
POSSIBLE CAUSES
Pad knock-back from extremely rough road operation or violent cornering. Incorrectly adjusted rear brakes. Air in system, fluid leak, or low fluid level. Excessive wheel bearing end play. Damaged and leaking caliper piston seal. Incorrectly ground rear brake lining. Brake shoe not to flat surface specification limit.
Check for worn or damaged insulators or damaged stabilizers and replace as necessary. Check automatic adjusters.
Booster linlt not connected to brake pedal. Brake booster not connected to firewall. Detective master cylinder seals.
Bleed system, correct leak and fill hydraulic system. Adjust wheel bearings to specifications. Replace piston seal, fill and bleed hydraulic system. Grind or replace rear brake shoe and lining assemblies. Replace brake shoe and lining assembly. Connect booster link to brake pedal. Secure brake booster to firewall. Overhaul or replace master cylinder.
EXCESSIVE BRAKE PEDAL EFFORT
Brake booster malfunction. Brake booster check valve leaking. Vacuum failure. Brake fluid, oil or grease on brake linings. Stuck or seized pistons in both calipers.
Replace \>rake booster assembly. Replace check valve. Check hose and connections. Replace brake linings. Clean rotor with alcohol. Free up pistons and replace piston seals.
BRAKE ROUGHNESS OR
Brake rotor excessive lateral runout or thickness variation. Rear brake drum ovality excessive.
CHAnER (PULSATING PEDAL)
Replace brake rotor. Refinish or replace rear brake
drum. BRAKES PULL, GRAB, OR UNEVEN BRAKING
BRAKE RAnLE OR CLICK
GRINDING OR GRATING NOISE
Unequal front tyre pressures. Incorrect front end alignment. Brake fluid, oil or grease on brake linings. Caliper not properly aligned on rotor.
Equalize tyre pressures. Align front end and check toe-in. Replace brake linings. Clean rotor with alcohol. Align and tighten anchor plate bolts in correct sequence to specified torque.
Stuck or seized piston one caliper.
Free up or replace piston and piston seal.
Broken or missing shoe hold-down spring or clip.
Replace broken or missing parts.
Worn or cut insulators or broken stabilizers.
Replace broken or damaged parts.
Worn out lining. Damaged insulator or stabilizer. Damaged wheel bearings.
Replace lining. Replace damaged part. Replace with new bearings.
PART 2-1-GENERAL BRAKE SERVICE
2-7
TABLE
1-(Continued) DISC BRAKE TROUBLE SYMPTOMS AND POSSIBLE CAUSES
TROUBLE SYMPTOMS HEAVY BRAKE DRAG
POSSIBLE CAUSES
CORRECTION
Stuck or seized piston. Incomplete brake pedal return. · Improperly. assembled caliper assembly. Brake booster malfunction.
CALIPER BRAKE FLUID LEAK
Loose front brake hose through bolt or copper gasket omitted. Loose bleeder screw. Caliper housing porosity. Cut or rolled piston seal. Foreign substance in caliper piston seal groove. Piston scored or damaged.
Free up or replace piston and piston seal. Binding linkage-free up. Loosen caliper slide pins and re· torque with brake pedal -applied Girling only. Replace booster. Replace missing copper gasket or tighten through bolt to specification. Tighten bleeder screw to specified torque. Replace caliper housing. Replace piston seal. Clean piston seal groove and replace seal. Replace piston and seal.
.
TABLE 2 DRUM BRAKE TROUBLE SYMPTOMS AND POSSIBLE CAUSES TROUBLE SYMPTOMS
POSSIBLE CAUSES
ONE BRAKE DRAGS
Brake line restricted. Faulty retracting spring. Loose carrier plate. Air in hydraulic system. Distorted or improperly adjusted brake shoe.
Drum out of round. Faulty brake cylinder. Dirty brake fluid. Insufficient shoe-to-carrier plate lubrication.
ALL BRAKES. DRAG
.Mechanical resistance at pedal or shoe. Dirty brake fluid. Faulty master cylinder.
Brake line restricted . Distorted or improperly adjusted brake shoe.
HARD PEDAL
Mechanical resistance at pedal or shoes. Lining glazed or worn.
Brake line restricted. Distorted or improperly adjusted brake shoe.
~
SPONGY PEDAL
Leaks or insufficient fluid.
Air in hydraulic system.
CAR PULLS TO ONE SIDE
Brake line restricted. Distorted or improperly adjusted brake shoe. Lining glazed or worn. Faulty brake cylinder.
Improper tyre pressure. Faulty retracting spring. Drum out of round. Oil or grease on lining. Self adjusters not operating.
ONE WHEEL LOCKS
Distorted or improperly adjusted brake shoe. Loose carrier plate. Lining glazed or worn.
Oil or grease on lining. Faulty brake cylinder. Tyre tread worn.
BRAKES CHATTER
Drum out of round. Oil or grease on lining. Poor lining to drum contact. Lining glazed or worn.
Loose carrier plate. Loose lining. Loose front suspension.
GROUP 2-BRAKES
2-8
TABLE 2 -(Continued) DRUM BRAKE TROUBLE SYMPTOMS AND POSSIBLE CAUSES TROUBLE SYMPTOMS EXCESSIVE PEDAL TRAVEL
POSSIBLE CAUSES
Leaks or insufficient fluid. Lining glazed or worn. Air hydraulic system. Cracked drum.
m
PEDAL GRADUALLY GOES
Distorted or improperly adjusted brake shoe. Faulty master cylinder. Self adjusters not operating.
Leaks or insufficient fluid.
Faulty master cylinder.
Improper tyre pressure. Dirty brake fluid.
Oil or grease on lining.
TO FLOOR BRAKES UNEVEN SHOE CLICK AFTER RELEASE
Insufficient shoe-to-carrier plate lubrication.
NOISY OR GRABBING BRAKES
Distorted or improperly adjusted brake shoe. Dirt on drum-lining surface. Insufficient shoe-to-carrier plate lubrication.
BRAKES DO NOT APPLY
Leaks or insufficient fluid. Dirty brake fluid. Faulty master cylinder.
BRAKES FOR THE RESPECTIVE SYSTEM DO NOT APPLY
One section dual brake system is inoperative.
WARNING LIGHT STAYS LIT
. One s.ection dual brake system is moperattve. Warning lamp switch is grounded.
PEDAL GRADUALLY MOVES TOWARD FLOOR OR DASH PANEL WARNING LAMP DOES NOT LIGHT
Leaks or insufficient fluid.
Warning lamp is burned out. Wiring to warning lamp has open circuit.
Threads left by drum turiling tool pulls shoe sideways. Lining glazed or worn. Oil or grease on lining. Faulty brake cylinder.
Lining glazed or worn. Oil or grease on lining. · Air in hydraulic system.
Differential pressure valve not centred. Wiring to warning lamp switch is grounded. Faulty master cylinder.
Warning lamp switch has an open circuit.
2·9
PART
BRAKE SYSTEM
2·2 Section Page 1 Description and Operation ...... ...... ...... . .... ...... 2-9 2 In-Car Adjustments and Repairs ...... ....... .. . .... 2-14
a
Section 3 Removal and Installation 4 Major Repair Operations .......... .
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
Disc brakes are available as optional equipment for the front wheels on Falcon models but are standard on Fairmont, Falcon GT, Fairlane 500 Fairlane Custom and all 8 cylinder and 250 2V 6 cylinder vehicles. The dual master cylinder equipped hydraulic brake system employs single anchor, internal expanding and selfadjusting drum brake assemblies on the rear wheels of vehicles with disc brakes, and on the front and rear wheels of all others. A vacuum booster is used with the power disc brake system.
DUAL ·MASTER CYLINDER BRAKE SYSTEM The dual master cylinder brake system has been incorporated in all models to provide incrersed safety. The system consists of a dual master cylinder which incorporates a pressure differential valve assembly and a switch (Fig. 6). The switch on the differential valve activates a dualbrake warning light, located on the instrument panel. On both disc and drum brake systems two front brake tubes are fitted to the two primary brake outlet ports (rear) on the master cylinder. The single tube to the rear brakes is fitted to the secondary outlet port (front). GTONLY. A combination pressure differential valve warning lamp, switch and pressure control valve assembly (proportioning valve) is fitted on the suspension tower immediately below the master cylinder (Fig. 4). The original differential pressure valve, which is integral with the master cylinder is retained to ensure the integrity of the dual system; however, the warning lamp switch is deleted from the master cylinder and a sealing plug fitted in its place. Should the original pressure differential valve be left out of the
NORIII .".L POSITION CENTEREO
FIG. 4 -Pressure Differentiafand Pressure Control Valve and Brake Warning Light Switch - G T Only.
FIG.5
B.A.I.
FIG. 6 Differential Valve P.B.R.- Typical.
Page 2-15 2-21
master cylinder, the dual line &afety feature will be destroyed. as both systems will be pressurised via a common chamber. The pressure control (proportioning) valve (Fig. 4) is locat~d in the rear system only. It provides balanced braking action between the front (disc) and rear {drum) brakes. The proportioning valve reduces pressure at the rear brakes, since equivalent amounts of hydraulic pressure would cause more braking by the self energiSing rear brakes than the non energising front disc brakes.
DISC BRAKE The disc brake .consists of a ventilated rotor and caliper assembly. The caliper used on all models is a single piston floating caliper (Fig. 7), and may be of PBR or Girling design. FLOATING CALIPER GIRLING The caliper assembly is secured to the spindle with two safety wired attaching bolts. The upper attaching bolt is parallel with the centreline of the vehicle, and the lower bolt is transverse to the car centreline. (Fig. 3/8). The upper ends of the flexible steel stabilizer are attached to the caliper housing ears with two caliper locating pins.
2-10
GROUP 2-BRAKES
vertical inner surfaces of these anchor plate ledges. A single hydraulic piston is fitted into a bore in the inner portion of the caliper housing. (Fig. 12). A square section seal is fitted into an annular groove in the caliper bore (refer Figs. 12·13} and a rubber boot is utilized to .... " seal the piston and caliper bore against road splash contamination. A feed port is provided in the caliper housing below the piston. A bleed screw is located in the caliper housing over the piston to bleed air from the hydraulic system. It is not necessary to remove the front wheels to bleed the brakes. The outer brake shoe and lining assembly is longer than the inner FIG. 7- Disc Brake Assemblyassembly, and the shoe and lining Floating Caliper- Girling assemblies are not interchangeable Shown. (Fig. 14}. The lower ends of the stabilizer Two lanced abutments on the are bolted directly to the lower inouter brake shoe fit into the slots on board surface of the anchor plate. the outboard legs of the caliper This permits transverse movement of housing. The outer brake shoe and the caliper assembly (Fig. 8). . lining assembly is also held in a fixed The caliper housing is a single position by brake shoe hold-down piece casting positioned between two pins which extend through the brake ears on the top of the anchor plate. shoe and caliper housing. The pins The inner brake shoe rests on the top are secured.at the outer surface of the of two anchor plate ledges located at caliper housing with two spring clips. each end of the anchor plate. Two spring clips are used to maintain the A splash shield is bolted to the shoe in position. Brake shoe endwise spindle to protect the brake rotor movement is restricted by the ends against road splash contamination. of the brake shoe contacting the
FLOATING CALIPER P.B.R.
The single piston hydraulic disc brake caliper is constructed from a single casting which contains one large piston bore in the inboard section of the casting. (Inboard refers to the side of the casting which is nearest the centreline of the car when the caliper is mounted}. The fluid inlet hole and bleeder valve hole' are machined into the inboard section of the caliper and connect directly to the piston bore. The cylinder contains a piston and seal. The seal has a square section, and is located in a groove which is machined in the cylinder bore. It fits around the outside diameter of the piston to pr_ovide a hydraulic seal between the piston and the cylinder wall. The top of the piston is machined to accept a sealing dust boot. The outside diameter of the boot is pressed into a recess in the top of the cy· Iinder bore. The inside diameter of the boot fits into the groove which is machined in the piston. The piston is steel, precision ground and chrome plated giving it a very hard and dura· ble surface. The use of abrasives or any attempt to re-machine the piston will destroy the plating.
tO
..__ _ I'USH - · TWISn OUTIOAIID lnBPRINCI WITH IIIAICI H0S1
MUST II CLEAR Of ·STHIIING STOP ON -DU AIIM
I VIEW FIG. 8- Caliper Mounting Bolts
A, .
P11Y1NT
2-11
PART 2-2-BRAKE SYSTEM P.B.R. FLOATING HEAD CALIPER -FIG. 9
'---.J/0 (l) I liD
ENSURE THAT SEAL RETAINER IS IN CORRECT POSITION WITH SERRATED SIDE OF RETAINER FITTED INSIDE OF SEAL.
Shoe wear is automatically com· pensated for by the sliding caliper feature. The caliper floats through two guide pins located inside the anchor bracket sleeves. Each caliper contains two shoe and pad assemblies. They are constructed of a stamped metal shoe with the lining integrally moulded to the shoe. Shoe and pad _assemblies can be removed and replaced only by removing the caliper assembly from its mounting on the vehicle. The shoes are not interchangeable.
c::AUPER OPERATION When the brake pedal is applied, brake fluid is displaced into the cylinder moving the piston outward. This action forces the inner shoe and iining assembly against the rotor. The resultant reaction forces the caliper housing and outboard shoe and lining assembly inward against the rotor. Braking torque is tran!lferred from the outer brake shoe abutments through the caliper housing into the anchor plate. Braking torque from the inner brake shoe is taken ~y into the anchor plate.· When the brake pedal is released, the seal retracts the piston into the cylinder and the caliper housing slides outward releasing the brake.
ROTOR The cast iron disc is of the ventilated rotor-type incorporating forty fins and is attached to, and rotates with the wheel hub. A splash shield bolted to the spindle is used primarily to prevent road contaminants from contacting the inboard rotor
and lining surfaces. The wheel provides protection for the outboard surface of the rotor.
DRUM BRAKE The drum brake system employs single anchor, internal expanding and self adjusting brake assemblies.
P.B.R. CALIPER ASSEMBLED- FIG. 10.
2-12
GROUP 2-BRAKES
CALIPER A~'Y . . , 28 118 R.H. 28119 L.H. INSULATOR
,~
SEAL
28~29928115 CLIP ~ · 2207 2BI64 -~:~~ BOOT ANCHOR PLATE . • , . 2B293 L.H. ""' 2B292 R.H. .
~.....,-0
_..
3105-R.H. 3106·L.H.
&...._
SHOE 2019
28160
ROTOR SPLASH SHIEL 2Koo.I·R.H. 2K005·L.H. 1202
ROTOR
1102..1....---'
FIG. 11- Disc Brake- Disassembled- Girling illustrated.
FIG. 12- Floating Caliper AssemblySectional View PISTON SEAL DISTORTED
PISTON
PISTON SEAL RELAXED
CALIPER HOUSING BRAKES APPLIED
FIG. 13- Function of Piston Seal
BRAKES RELEASED
The self adjusting brake mechanism consists of a cable, cable guide, adjusting lever, adjusting screw assembly and adjuster spring (Fig. 1S). The cable is hooked over the anchor pin at the top and is connected to the lever at the bottom. The cable is routed along the web of. the secondary brake shoe by means of the cable guide. The adjuster spring is hooked to the primary brake shoe and to the lever. The automatic adjuster operates only when the brakes are applied while the vehicle is moving rearward and only when the secondary shoe is free to move toward the drum beyond a predetermined point. With the car moving rearward ~d the brakes applied, the wrap-around action of i:he shoes following the drum forces the upper end of the primary shoe against the anchor pin. The action of the wheel cylinder moves the upper end of the secondary shoe away from the anchor pin. The movement of the secondary shoe causes the cable to pull the adjusting lever upward and against the end of a tooth on the adjusting screw starwheel. The upward travel of the lever increases as lining wear increases. When the lever can move upward far eno1;gh it passes over the end of the tooth and engages the tooth. When the brakes are released, the adjusting spring pulls the lever downward causing the star-wheel to turn and expand the shoes. The star-wheel is
2-13
PART 2-2-BRAKE SYSTEM turned one tooth at a time as the linings progressively wear.
OUTER SHOE RETAINING CLIPS 2066
INNER BRAKE SHOE ANO LINING ASSEMBLY -2019
OUTER BRAKE SHOE AND LINING ASSEMBLY-2018
With the car moving forward and the brakes applied, the secondary shoe is against the anchor pin and the primary sltoe is moved toward the drum. Therefore, the adjuster does not operate.
•
The rear brake assembly is basi· cally the same as the front brake. The conventional parking brake lever, link and spring are used in the rear brake. \.1
FIG. 14- ShOe and Lining Assemblies- Girling Caliper.
The anchor pin on all brakes are fixed and are non·adjustable.
BRAKE BOOSTER SYSTEM
This dual diaphragm-type brake booster is a self-contained vacuumhydraulic braking unit mounted on the engine . side of the dash panel. The brake booster is of the vacuum suspended type which uti· lizes engine intake manifold vacuum and atmospheric pressure for its power. The booster unit is to be exchanged when it is inspected, checked and found to be defective. OPERATION -
BOOSTER
The Booster Servo Unit is designed to assist the effort applied by the driver's foot on the brake pedal. It
All Models Except Taxi
SECONDARY SHOE
fRONT IRAKE
PARKING BRAKE CABlE AND
REAR IRAKE
BRAKE
YliNOER
Taxi
PRIMA Y BRAKE lEAR IRAIII
FIG. 15- Self Adjusting Brake
-fRONT Of C A l -
fRONT IRAIIE
SHOE AND LINING
GROUP 2-BRAKES
2-14
FIG. 16- Brake Booster.
uses the vacuum created in the engine inlet manifold to boost force applied at the master cylinder push rod in an exact and controlled manner. The assembly is mounted between the brake pedal and the master cylinder, with the push rod from the rear of the unit connected to the brake pedal, and a push rod from the front of the unit abuts the master cylinder piston. The force which assists the pedal
EJ
effort is obtained by admitting atmospheric pressure to one side of both diaphragms which are suspended in a vacuum. The difference in pressure moves the diaphragms and this movement is used in a controlled manner to augment the driver's pedal effort. In the case of a vacuum failure, the valve and rod assembly of the servo and the master cylinder push rod act as a single push rod.·The brakes will, . therefore, work in the conventional
manner, but more effort will be required on the brake pedal. PARKING BRAKE
An independent hand operated parking brake control actuates the rear wheel brake shoes through a cable linkage, the operating cable is routed from the parking brake control assembly to the equalizer. The rear brake cables connect the equalizer assembly to the parking brake lever at each rear secondary shoe.
IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTMENTS - EXCEPT TA:XI
The car should be in a raised position with the wheels off the floor. The hydraulic service brakes are self-adjusting and require a manual adjustment only after the brake shoes have been relined, replaced, or when the length of the adjusting screw has been changed while performing some other service operation. The brake drums should be at normal room temperature when adjusting the brake shoes. If the shoes are adjusted when the drums are hot
and expanded, the shoes may drag when the . drums are cool and contracted. 1. After the shoes have been installed or the adjusting screw has been turned, install the drum. Be sure that all excess grease, oil, and other foreign material are wiped off the backing plate and drum. Before installing the brake drum on the front wheel spindle, wipe the spindle completely free of grease. Install the drum carefully so that the grease seal retainers within the hub will not be damaged. 2. Remove the adjusting hole
cover from the backing plate. Working from the backing plate side, turn the adjusting screw upward to expand the shoes (Fig. 17). Expand the shoes until a drag is felt when the drum is rotated. 3. Remove the drum. Mark thetooth on the star-wheel where the adjusting lever contacts it. While holding the adjusting lever out of engagement with the adjusting screw, back off the adjusting screw i of a turn with the fingers. If finger movement will not tum the screw, free it up; otherwise, the self-adjusting lever will not turn the screw. Lubricate the
PART 2-2-BRAKE SYSTEM BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTMENT -TAXI The brakes should be adjusted . when the drums are at normal room temperature. If the shoes are adjusted when the drums are hot, dragging brakes may result when the drums
cool.
FIG. 17- Expanding
Brake Shoes screw with a thin uniform coating of Moly grease.
Any other adjustment procedure may cause damage to the adjusting screw with consequent self-adjuster problems. 4. Apply a small quantity of hightemperature grease to the points where the shoes contact the backing plate, being careful not to get the lubricant on the linings. Install the drum. On front wheels, install the wheel outer bearing, washer, and adjusting nut, then adjust the wheel bearings as outlined in Group 3. 5. Install the wheel on the drum and tighten the mounting nuts to specification. · 6. Install the adjusting hole cover on the brake backing plate. 7. When adjusting the rear brake shoes, check the parking brake cables for proper adjustment. Make sure that the equalizer lever operates freely. 8. After the brake shoes have been properly adjusted, check the operation of the brakes.
EJ
1. Raise the car until the wheels clear the floor. If the car is on a frame contact hoist, disconnect the parking brake cables to prevent their tightening when the rear axle and springs sag. 2. Remove the adjusting hole cover from the bottom of the brake carrier plate, and turn the adjusting screw ,,..ig. 17} until a' slight drag on the wheel is noted. 3. Back off the adjustment just enough to allow the wheel to rotate freely. If it fails to rotate freely, the wheel and drum should be removed and the dust blown off the brake shoes and carrier plate. Apply a light coating of Lubricant to the brake shoe-to-plate contact points. Install the wheel and drum, and adjust the brake again. Install the adjusting hole cover. 4. Adjust the remaining brakes. 5. If necessary, connect and adjust the parking brake cables (see Page 2-3). 6. When all brake shoes have been adjusted, check the operation of the brakes.
HYDRAULIC LINE REPAIR Steel tubing ' is used throughout the brake system with the exception of the flexible hoses at the front wheels and at the rear axle housing brake tube connection.
Always bleed the applicable primary or secondary brake system after primary or secondary
2-15 brake system hose or line replacement. (See Page 2-3).
BRAKE TUBE REPLACEMENT If a section of the brake tubing becomes damaged, the entire section should be replaced with tubing of the same type, size, shape and length . Copper tubing should not be used in a hydraulic system. When bending brake tubing to fit underbody or rear axle contours, be careful not to kink or crack the tube. All brake tubing should be double flared properly to provide good leakproof connections. Clean the brake tubing by flushing with clean brake fluid before installation . When connecting a tube to a hose, t~be connector, or brake cylinder, t1ghten the tube fitting nut to specified torque with Milbar tool 1112-144 or equivalent.
BRAKE HOSE REPLACEMENT A flexible brake hose should be replaced if it shows signs of softening, cracking, or other damage. When installing a new front brake hose, position the hose to avoid contact with other chassis parts. Place a new copper gasket over the hose fitting and thread the hose" assembly into the front wheel cylinder. Engage the opposite end of the hose to the bracket on the frame . Install the horsesho·e-type retaining clip, and connect the tube to the hose with the tube fitting nut . A rear brake hose should be installed so that it does not touch the muffler outlet pipe or shock absorber. Thread the hose into the rear brake tube connector. Engage the front end of the hose to the bracket on the frame. Install the horseshoe-type retaining clip, and connect the tube to the h9se with the tu~ fitting nut.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
FRONT BRAKE DRUM REMOVAL I. Raise the vehicle until the wheel and tire clear the floor. Remove the wheel cover or hub cap, and remove the wheel and tire frotn the drum. l. Remove the grease cap from the hub. Remove the cotter pin, nut lock, adjusting nut, and flat washer from the spindle. Remove the outer bearing cone and roller assembly. 3. Pull the drum off the wheel spindle.
4. If the drum will not come off, pry the rubber cover from the brake backing plate. Insert a narrow screwdriver through the slot and disengage · the adjusting lever from the adjusting screw. While holding the adjusting lever away from the scrt:w, back off the adjusting screw wj.th the brake adjusting tool (Fig. 18}. Be very careful not to burr, chip, or damage the notches in the adjusting screw; otherwise the self-adjusting mechanism will not function properly.
INSTALLATION I. If the drum is being replaced, remove the protective coating from the new drum with carburetor degreaser. Then, use sandpaper to insure that no residue remains. Wipe the drum with a cloth soaked with denatured alcohol. Install new bearings and grease seal. Pack the wheel bearings, install the inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the inner cup, and install the new grease seal. (see Group 3).
GROUP 2-BRAKES
2-16 2. Adjust the brakes and install the drum
assembly
as
outlined
under
Brake Shoe Adjustments on Page 2-14. 3. Install the outer wheel bearing, washer and adjusting nut. 4. A
3. Remove the shoe hold-down springs, shoes, adjusting screw, pivot nut, socket and automatic adjustment parts. 4. On rear brakes, remove the parking brake link and spring. Disconnect the parking brake. cable from the parking brake lever. 5. After removing the rear brdke secondary shoe, disassemble the park· ing brake lever from the shoe by removing the retaining clip and spring w11sher.
REAR BRAKE DRUM
INSTALLATION
REMOVAL
l. Before installing the rear brake shoes, assemble the parking brake lever to the secondary shoe and secure with the spring washer and retaining clip. l. Apply a light coating of hightemperature grease at the points where the brake shoes contact the backing plate. 3. Position the brake shoes on the backing plate and secure the assembly with the hold down springs. On the rear brake, install the parking brake link and spring, back off the parking
l. Raise the vehicle so that the tire is clear of the floor . l. Remove the hub cap and wheel.
Remove the drum from the axle · flange. If the dtum will not come off, pry the rubber cover from the backing plate. Insert a narrow screwdriver through the hole in the backing plate, and disengage the adjusting lever from the adjusting screw. While holding the adjusting lever away from the adjusting screw, back off the adjusting screw with the brake adjusting tool (Fig. 18). Be very careful not to burr, chip, or damage the notches in the adjusting screw; otherwise, the selfadjusting mechanism will not function properly. 1. Remove the protective coating from a new drum with carburetor degreaser; then sand lightly and wipe with a cloth soaked with denatured alcohol. l. Adjust the brakes as outlined
ADJUSnNG LEVER
FIG. 21- Adjusting Screw and Lever Identification
IS).
under Brake Shoe Adjustments on Page 2-14. Place the drum over the brake assembly and into position. H1590·A
FIG. 18 - .Backing Off Brake Adjustment
BRAKE SHOES AND ADJUSTING SCREW DRUM BRAKES REMOVAL
1. With the wheel and drum removed install a clamp over the ends of the brake cylinder as shown jn Fig.
19. l. Remove the secondary shoe to anchor spring with the tool shown in Fig. 19. With the same tool remove the primary shoe to anchor spring and unhook the cable eye from the anchor oin.
Installation- Typical
brake adjustment then connect the parking brake cable to the parking brake lever . 4. Place the cable eye over the anchor pin with the crimped side toward the backing plate. 5. Install the primary · shoe to anchor spring 6. Install the cable guide on the secondary shoe web with the flanged hole fitted into the hole in the secondary shoe web. Thread the cable around the cable guide groove (Fig.
INSTALLATION
3. Install the wheel on the axle shaft flange studs against the drum, and tighten the attaching nuts to specifications.
FIG. 20 - Retracting Spring
FIG. 19- Retracting Spring Removal- Typical
·
It is imperative that the cable be p'ositioned in this groove and not between the guide and the shoe web. 7. Install the secondary shoe to· anchor spring with the tool shown in Fig. 20. Be certain that the cable eye is not cocked or binding on the anchor pin when installed. All parts should be flat on the anchor pin. Remove the brake cylinder clamp. 8. Apply high-temperature grease to the threads and the socket end of the adjusting screw . Turn the adjusting screw into the adjusting pivot nut to the limit of the threads and then back off 1/2 turn. Interchanging the brake shoe adjusting screw assemblies from one side of the ,·ehicle to the other would cause the brake shoes to retract rather than expand each time the automatic adjusting mechanism operated. To pre-
2-17
PART 2-2-BRAKE SYSTEM vent installation on the wrong side of the vehicle, the socket end of the adjusting screw is stamped with an R or L. (Fig. 21 ). The adjusting pivot nuts can be distinguished by the number of grooves machined around the body of the nut. Two grooves on the nut indicate a .right thread: one groove indi. cates a left thread. 9. Place the adjusting socket on the screw and install this assembly between the shoe ends with the adjusting screw toothed wheel nearest the sec·ondary shoe. 10. Hook the cable hook into the hole in the adjusting lever. The adjusting levers are stamped with an R or L to indicate their installation on right or left brake as!\Cmbly (Fig. 21). II. Position the hooked end of the ;tdjuster spring completely into the large hole in the primary shoe web. The last coil of the spring should be at the edge of the hole . Connect the loop end of the spring to the adjuster lever hole. 12. Pull the adjuster lever, cable and automatic adjuster spring down and toward the rear to engage the pivot hook in the large hole in the secondary shoe web (Fig. 15). 13. After installation, check the action of the adjuster by pulling the section of the cable between the cable guide and the anchor pin toward the secondary shoe web far enough to lift the lever past a tooth on the adjusting screw wheel. The lever should snap into position behind the next tooth, and release of the cable should cause the adjuster spring to return the lever to its original position. This return action of the lever will turn the adjusting screw one tooth. If pulling the cable does not produce the action described, or if the lever action is sluggish instead of positive and sharp, check the position of the lever on the adjusting screw toothed wheel. With the brake in a vertical position (anchor at the top), the lever should contact the adjusting wheel 3/16 inch (plus or minus 1/32 inch) above the centerline of the screw. If the contact point is below this centerline, the lever will not lock on the teeth in the adjusting screw wheel, and the screw will not be turned as the lever is actuated by the cable. To determine the cause of this condition : a. Check the cable end fittings. The cable should completely fill or extend slightly beyond the crimped section of the fittings. If it does not meet this specification, possible damage is indicated and the cable assembly should
be replaced. b. The cable length should measure 9! inches from the end of the cable anchor to the end of the cable · hook. c. Check the cable guide for damage. The cable groove should be parallel to the shoe web, and the body of the guide should' lie flat against the web. Replace the guide if it shows damage. d. Check the pivot hook on the lever. The hook surfaces should be square with the body of the lever for proper pivoting. Replace the lever if the hook shows damage. e. See that the adjusting screw socket is properly seated in the notch in the shoe web.
WHEEL CYLINDER DRUM BRAKE REMOVAL 1. Remove the wheel and the drum. Z. Remove the brake shoe assemblies, following procedures outlined in this section. 3. Disconnect the brake line from the brake cylinder . On a vehicle with a vacuum brake booster, be sure the engine is stopped and there is no vacuum in the booster system before disconnecting the hydraulic lines. To disconnect the hose at a front cylinder, loosen the tube fitting that connects the opposite end of the hose to the brake tube at a bracket on the frame. Remove the horseshoe-type retaining clip from the hose and bracket, disengage the hose from the bracket, then unscrew the entire hose assembly from the front wheel cylinder. At a rear cylinder, unscrew the tube fitting that connects the tube to the cylinder. Do not pull the metal tube away from the cylinder. Pulling the tube out of the cylinder connection. will bend the
metal tube and make installation difficult. The tube will separate from the cylinder when the cylinder is removed from the backing plate. 4. Remove the wheel cylinder attaching bolts and lock washers and remove the cylinder. INSTALLATION Wipe the end(s) of the hydraulic line to remove any foreign matter before making connections. 1. To install a front wheel cylinder, position the cylinder to the backing plate. Install the two lock washers and attaching bolts. Torque them to specifications. 2. Install a new copper gasket over the hose fitting. Thread the hose into the cylinder and tighten it to specified torque. 3. Engage the opposite end of the hose to the bracket on the frame. Install the horseshoe-type retaining clip, and connect the brake tube to the hose with the tube fitting nut. Tighten the nut to specification. 4. To install a rear wheel cylinder, place · the rear wheel cylinder into position. Enter the tubing into the cylinder, and start the tube fitting nut into the threads of the cylinder. S. Secure the cylinder to the backing plate by installing the attaching bolts and lock washers. 6. Tighten the tube fitting nut to specification. 7. Install the shoes and adjuster assemblies, and adjust the shoes as outlined iD. this section. 8. Adjust the brake shoes, Page 2-14 and install the brake drums and wheels. Bleed the brake system as outlined on Page 2-3.
WHEEL CYLINDER REPAIR DRUM BRAKE Wheel cylinders should not be disassembled unless they are leaking or unless new cups and boots are to be
BOOT
CYLINDER
FIG. 22- Brake Wheel Cylinder- Typical
~~ PISTON
H138S·B
2-18 installed. It is not necessary to remove the brake cylinder from the backing plate to disassemble, inspect, or hone and overhaul the cylinder. Removal is necessary only when the cylinder is damaged or scored beyond repair. DISASSEMBLY 1. Remove the links and the rubber boots from the ends of the brake cylinder. Remove the pistons, cups, and return spring from the cylinder bore (Fig. 22). 2. Remove the bleeder screw from the cylinder. INSPECTION l. Wash all parts in clean brake fluid. Dry with compressed air. 2. Replace scored pistons. Always replace the rubber cups and dust boots. 3. Inspect the cylinder bore for score marks or rust. If either condition is present the cylinder bore inust be honed. However, the cylinder should not be honed more than 0. 003 inch beyond its original diameter. 4. Check the bleeder hole to be sure that it is open. ASSEMBLY
l. Apply a light coating of heavyduty brake fluid to all internal parts. 2. Thread the bleeder screw into the cylinder and tighten securely. 3. Insert the return spring, cups, and pistons into their respective positions in the cylinder bore (Fig. 22). 4. Replace the boots and links. Assemble the brake shoes and drums as previously described. 5. Bleed the brakes and refit ,the wheels. BRAKE BACKING PLATE DRUM BRAKE
REMOVAL 1. Remove the wheel and brake drum. Disconnect the brake line from the brake cylinder. Z. Remove the brake shoe and adjuster assemblies and tbe wheel cyhnder as outlined in this section. On the rear wheels, disconnect the parking brake lever from the cable.
3. If the rear backing plate is being replaced, remove the axle shaft from the applicable rear axle as outlined in Group 4, disengage parking brake cable retainer from ba-cking plate. Remove the backing plate and gasket.
GROUP 2-BRAKES If the front backing plate is being replaced, remove the bolts and nuts · that secure the backing plate to the front wheel spindle and remove the plate and gasket. INSTALLATION If a rear backing plate is to be replaced, position a new rear backing plate and gasket on the attaching bolts in the axle housing flange. Insert parking brak.e cable into backing plate and secure retaining fingers. Install the rear axle shaft Refer to Group 4 for the proper installation procedure. I. If the front brake backing plate is to be replaced, position a new front backing plate and gasket to the wheel spindle and install the attaching bolts and nuts. z. Install the wheel· cylinder and connect the brake line as outlined in this section. 3. Install the brake shoe and adjuster assemblies as outlined in this section. On a rear brake, connect the parking bralte cable to the lever. 4. Adjust the brakes, Page 2-14. Install the brake drum and wheel. Bleed the brakes as outlined on Page 2-3. FRONT WHEEL HUB AND ROTOR ASSEMBLY DISC BRAKES
REMOVAL l. Remove the wheel and tyre from the hub. Be careful to avoid damage or interference with the bleeder screw fitting. Z. Remove the caliper assembly from the spindle and the rotor. If the caliper does not require servicing, it is not necessary to disconnect the brake hose or remove the caliper from the vehicle. Position the caliper out of the way, and S\!pport it with a wire to avoid damaging the caliper or stretching the hose. Insert a clean cardboard spacer between the linings to prevent the piston from coming out of the cylinder bore while the caliper is removed. Handle the rotor and caliper assemblies in such a way as to avoid deformation of the rotor and nicking, scratching or contamination of the brake linings. J. Remove the grease cap from the hub. Remove the cotter pin, nut lock, adjusting nut, and flat washer from the spindle. Remove the outer bearing cone and roller assembly. 4. Remove the hub and rotor assembly from the spindle.
INSTALLATION l. If the rotor is being replaced, remove the protective coating from the new rotor with carburetor degreaser. Pack a new set of bearings with specified grease (Refer Group 3) and install the inner bearing cone and toller assembly in the inner cup. Pack grease lightly between the lips of a new grease seal and install the seal. · If the original roto~ is being installed, make sure that the hub is clean, that the inner bearing and grease seal are lubricated and in good condition, and that the rotor braking surfaces are clean. Z. Install the hub and rotor assembly on the spindle. 3. Lubricate and install the outer wheel bearing, washer and adjusting nut. 4. Adjust the wheel bearings to specification, and then install the nut lock, cotter pin, and grease cap. The wheel bearing adjustment is especially Important with disc brakes. 5. Mount the caliper assembly on the spindle following the Disc Brake Caliper Assembly Installation procedure in this section. DISC BRAKE ROTOR SPLASH SHIELD
REMOVAL 1. Remove the caliper and the hub and rotor assembly as outlined under Removal in the foregoing procedure (it is not necessary to disconnect hydraulic connections). z. Remove the three bolts that attach the splash shield to the spindle: and remove the shield . 3. Remove and discard the splash shield to spindle gasket. INSTALLATION I. Install a new splash shield to spindle gasket. z. If the shield is bent, straighten it out before installation. Position the shield to the mounting bracket, install the attaching bolts, nuts and torque them to specification. J. Install the hub and rotor assembly and the caliper as outlined under Installation in the foregoing procedure. DISC BRAKE CALIPER ASSEMBLY
GIRLING REMOVAL 1. Remove the wheel and tyre assemblies from the hub. Use care to avoid damage or interference with the bleeder screw fitting
2-19
PART 2-2-BRAKE SYSTEM duriq removal. 2.. Remove about 2/3 of the total brake fluid capacity from the master cylinder ~eservoir which serves the disc brakes. Do not drain the reservoirs completely. 3. Disconnect the brake hose from the caliper. Cap the hose fitting to prevent brake system contamination and loss of brake fluid from the master cylinder. Mark the left and right caliper assemblies with chalk prior to removal from the vehicle. . 4. Remove the caliper locating pms and lower stabilizer attaching bolts and discard the stabilizer. Refer to Fig. 8. · Lift the caliper from the anchor plate Fig. 11. INSTALLATION
S. Position the caliper assembly over the rotor with the outer brake shoe against the rotor braking surface during installation on the anchor plate to prevent pinching the piston boot between the inner brake shoe an~ the piston. Verify that the correct caliper 1S assembled on the correct anchor plate as marked during dis. assembly. 8. Position the new stabilizer. Apply methylated spirits on the locating pins and attach the stabilizer to the caliper. Be sure the locating pins ~ free of on, grease and dirt. T1ghten , the caliper locating pins finger tight. Warning: When ever the caliper is removed, it is mandatory that
a new stabilizer, stabilizer locatiq pins and insulator bushes be fitted. 7. Install the stabilizer to anchor plate attaching screws. Finger tight. 8. Remove the cap from the brake hose fitting. Install a new copper washer on each side of the hose fitting and install the brake hose on the caliper. Tighten the clutching screw to 27-32 lbs. ft. torque. t. Bleed the brake system. CAUTION: DURING BLEEDING OPERATIONS THE BRAKE WARNING LIGHT SWITCH MUST BE REMOVED FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER TO AVOID DAMAGE TO THE SWITCH. Replace the w&ming light switch on completion of bleeding o~tion. 10. Fill the master cylmder as required to within one quarter inch of the top of the reservoir. 11. With moderate pressure applied to the brake pedal torque the stabilizer attaching screws to 8-lllb.
ft. and the caliper locating pins to 25-35 lb. ft. 12. Install the wheel and tyre assembly and tighten the wheel nuts to 70-115lbs. ft. torque. DISC BRAKE CALIPER ASSEMBLY REMOVAL P.B.R.
(1) Remove about 2/3 of the total brake fluid capacity from the master cylinder reservoir which serves the disc brakes. Do not drain the reservoirs completely. (2) With vehicle raised evenly on a hoist or jackstands, remove the front wheelsNote If more than one brake requires service, work on only one brake at a time, however, shoe and lining assemblies must always be replaced in both brakes. (3) Locate brake line and wipe area around fitting at · brake with a clean cloth to remove dirt and grease. Remove hose and place dust cap over end fitting. Insert dust cap into in· let hole of caliper. (4) Remove the two anchor bolts which hold the caliper anchor plate · to the steering spindle, remove the two bolts and lift the caliper ··and anchor plate assembly from the spindle. INSTALLATION
(1) Position caliper correctly over disc and slide straight into position until anchor bracket bolt holes align with their respective holes on the steering knuckle. (2) Instal the lower bolt fmger tight. Instal the upper bolt and torque to specification. Torque the lower bolt to specification. Safety wire both bolts. Be _sure specified wire wraps are made and sharp wire ends point away from brake hoses. (3) Loosen the bleeder screw. Re· move the plugs from the fluid in· sert hole in the caliper and the brake hose and insert fitting into hole and tighten. (4) Bleed the system. Allow the caliper to fill with brake fluid. After all air bubbles have .escaped, and fluid runs clear from bleeder, close the bleeder screw. Replenish the brake fluid in the master cylinder. (S) Pump the brake pedal several times to actuate the piston seals and position the hose and pad assemblies. (6) Check for fluid leakage at all connections under maximum pedal pressure. (7) Instal wheel and tighten wheel nuts to 70-115 lbs ft Torque.
(8) Remove jackstands or lower hoist. (9) Road test the vehicle and make several heavy 40 - 0 m.p.h. stops to wear off any foreign material on the brakes and to seat the shoes. (The vehicle may pull to one side on the f~rst application after service. This is normal until shoes are seated).
DUAL MASTER CYLINDER DRUM BRAKES REMOVAL
1. Remove the hairpin clip from the brake master cylinder push rod pedal pin. 2. Slide the master cylinder push rod and the nylon spacer and bushing oft' the brake pedal pin. 3. Remove the brake tubes from the primary and secondary outlet ports of the master cylinder. 4. Remove the nuts and lock~ashers that secure the master cylmder to the dash panel and lift the cylinder forward and upward from the vehicle. INSTALLATION
1. Position the boot on the push rod and secure the boot to the master cylinder. Carefully insert the master cylinder push rod af?-d boot through the dash panel openmg and position the master cylinder on the panel. 2. Install the nuts and lock washers at the dash panel and torque them to specification. Coat the nylon bushings with SAE lOW oil. 3. Install the inner nylon spacer the ~aster cylinder push rod, and th; bushmg on the brake pedal pin. Secure these parts to the pin with the hairpin clip. 4. Connect the brake lines to the master cylinder leaving the brake line fittings loose. 5. Fill the master cylinder with the specified brake fluid to within ~ inch of the top of the dual reservoirs. Use Motorcraft Brake Fluid or equivalent for all drum brake applications. 6. Tighten the brakeline fittings. Bleed the dual master cylinder and the primary and secondary brake systems. Refer to Hydraulic System Bleeding, Page 2-3 for proper procedure. 7. Operate the brakes several times, then check for external hydraulic leaks. DUAL MASTER CYLINDER DISC BRAKES REMOVAL
1. Remove the brake tubes from
GROUP
2-20
2-BRAKES
Fig. 23-Brake Installation
the primary and secondary outlet ports of the master cylinder. Remove the wires from the warning light switch.
Remqve the secondary piston stop bolt from the bottom of the primary reservoir. Refer Fig. 25. 2. Remove the two nuts and two lock washers attaching the master cylinder to the brake booster assembly. 3. Slide the master cylinder forward and upward from the vehicle. INSTALLATION
1. Position the master cylinder assembly over the booster push rod and onto the two studs on the booster assembly (Fig. 23). 2. Install the attaching nuts and lock washers and torque them to specifications. 3. Install the front and rear brake tubes to the master cylinder outlet fittings. 4. Fill the master cylinder with the specified brake fluid to within : inch of the top of the dual reservoirs. Use Motorcraft Brake Fluid. ·Do not m1x low temper~ture brake fluids with the specified fluids for the disc brake system. 5. Bleed the dual master cylinder and the primary and secondary brake systems. Refer to Hydraulic System
Bleeding, Page 2-3 for the proper procedure. Replace the wires on the warning light switch. 7. Operate the brakes several times, then check for external hydraulic leaks. BRAKE BOOSTER REMOVAL
1. Working from inside the vehicle below the instrument panel, disconnect the booster push rod from the brake pedal assembly. To do this proceed as follows: Remove the hairpin retainer from the brake pedal pin and then remove the booster push rod and the nylon spacer and bushing off the brake pedal pin (Fig. 23). 2. Open the hood and remove the master cylinder from the booster. It is necessary to disconnect the brake lines. Care should be taken that the brake lines are not deformed. Permanent deformation of brake lines can lead to tube failure. · 3. Disconnect the manifold vacuum hose from the booster unit. 4. Remove the booster to dash panel attaching nuts (Fig. 23). Remove the booster assembly from the dash panel, sliding the push rod link out from the engine side of the dash panel.
INSTALLATION
1. Mount the booster and bracket assembly to the dash panel by inserting the push rod or push rod link in through the hole and boot in the dash panel. Install the bracket to dash panel attaching nuts (Fig. 23). 2. Connect the manifold vacuum hose to the booster. 3. Install the master cylinder and torque the attaching nuts to specifications. . 4. Working from inside the vehicle below the instrument panel, connect the booster push rod link to the brake pedal assembly. To do this, proceed as follows: · Install the inner nylon spacer, the booster push rod, and the bushing on the brake pedal pin. Secure these parts to the pin with the hairpin retainer. BRAKE PEDAL REMOVAL
ALL MODELS
1. Remove the hairpin retainer. Slide the master cylinder or booster push rod and the nylon spacer and bushing off the brake pedal pin tFig. 23). 2. Remove the circlip type retainer from the brake pedal shaft, then remove the shaft, the brake pedal and the bushings from the pedal support bracket.
PART 2-2 -BRAKE SYSTEM INSTALLATION
1. Apply a coating of SAE 10 engine oil to the bushings and locate bushings in their proper places on the pedal assembly and pedal support bracket (Fig. 23) 2. Position the brake pedal assembly to the support bracket, then install the pedal shaft through the support bracket and brake pedal assembly. Install the retainer. 3. Install the inner nylon spacer, the master cylinder or booster push rod, and the bushing on the brake pedal pin. Secure these parts to the pin with the hairpin retainer. PARKING BRAKE, EQUALIZER TO HANDLE, CABLE REMOVAL
1. Remove the attaching screws and insulator bracket from the dash panel. 2. Remove the parking brake handle assembly and disengage the cable from the handle as outlined in this section. 3. Pull the cable down thtough the hole in the dash panel. 4. Remove the hairpin retainer, and disengage the cable and housing from the bracket on the crossmember. S. Disconnect the cable ball from
II
the equilizer lever, and remove the cable from the car. INSTALLATION
1. Connect the cable lower ball to the equilizer lever. 2. Engage the cable and housing to the bracket on the cross-member and secure with the hairpin retainer. 3. Push the upper end of the cable up through the hole in the dash panel. 4. Connect the cable upper ball to the parking brake handle, and install the handle assembly as outlined in this section. S. Install the insulator bracket to the dash panel and secure with the two attaching screws. PARKING BRAKE EQUALIZER TO REAR WHEEL CABLE A single cable passing through the equalizer and cable guides connects both parking brake assemblies. REMOVAL
1. Remove the adjusting lock nut and cable yoke from the equalizer rod, along with the rear cable assembly. 2. Remove the hairpin retainers and disengage the cable rear housings from the brackets on the underbody. 3. Remove the wheels and tyres and the rear brake drums as outlined
2-21 on Page 2-16. 4. Disconnect the rear ends of the cable from the parking brake levers on the brake shoes. Disengage the cable housing retaining grommets from the carrier plates and withdraw the cable ends and housings from the inboard sides of the carrier plates. S. Slide the cable housings out of the main side brac~ets and remove the cable assembly from the car. INSTALLATION
1. Insert both cable ends and housings · through the holes in the carrier plates from the inboard side. NOTE: Ensure that when fitting the cable ends to the carrier plates that they are fitted so that the flat irt the D-shaped hole in the cable yoke is uppermost. 2. Connect the cable ends to the parking brake levers on the brake shoes and engage the cable housing retaining grommets to the carrier plate. 3. Position the cable housings in the main side brackets and install the hairpin retainers. 4. Position the cable yoke and cable on the equalizer rod and install the adjusting locknut. The flat on the threaded section of the equalizer rod must be uppermost. 5. Adjust the parking brake as directed on Page 2-3.
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS
BRAKE DRUM REFINISHING
ROTOR REFINISHING
Minor scores on a brake drum can be removed with sandpaper. A drum that is excessively scored or shows a total indicator runout of over 0. 007 inch should be turned down. Remove only enough stock to eliminate the scores and true up the drum. The refinished diameter must not exceed 0. 060 inch oversize. Check the inside diameter of the brake drum with a brake drum micrometer. If the drum diameter is less than 0. 030 inch oversize after refinishing, standard lining may be installed. If the drum diameter is 0 .030-0.060 inch oversize after refinishing, oversize lining must be installed. After a drum is turned down, wipe the refinished surface with a cloth soaked in clean denatured alcohol. If one drum is turned down, the opposite drum on the same axle should also be cut down to the same size.
The finished braking surfaces of the rotor must be flat and parallel within 0 . 0007 inch; lateral runout must not exceed 0 . 003 inch total indicator reading, and the surface finish of the braking surfaces are to be 80/15 micro inches. The minimum limiting dimensions (Fig. 2) from the inboard bearing cup to the outboard rotor face and from the in· boarq bearing cup to the inboard rotor face must be observed when removing material from the rotor braking surfaces. On all models, the limiting dimensions are to be measured with a ball and ·puge bar (Tool Rll02A). BRAKE SHOE RELINING Brake linings that are worn to within -:!1., inch of the rivet head or are less' than 0 . 030 inch thick (bonded lining) or have been contaminated
with brake fluid, grease or oil must be replaced. Failure to replace worn linings will result in a scored drum.
Whea it is necessary to replace linings, they must also be replaced on the wheel on the opposite side of the vehicle. Inspect brake shoes for distortion, cracks, or looseness. If this condition exists, the shoe must be discarded.
Do not attempt to repair a defective brake shoe. 1. Wash the brake shoes thoroughly in a clean solvent. Remove all burrs or rough spots from the shoes. 2. Check the inside diameter of the brake drum with a brake drum micrometer. If the diameter is less than 0 . 030 inches oversize, standard lining may be installed. If the diameter is 0 . 030-0. 060 inches oversize, oversize lining should be installed. 3. Position the new lining on the shoe. Starting in the centre, insert
2-22
GROUP 2-BRAKES
and secure the rivets, working alternately towards each end. Replacement linings are ground and no further grinding is required. 4. Check the clearance between the shoe and lining. The lining must seat tightly against the shoe with not more than 0. 008 inch clearance between any two rivets.
PISTON RETRACTING TOOL GIRLING
Used Outer Brake Shoe
DISC BRAKE CALIPER GIRLING OVERHAUL AND BRAKE SHOE REPLACEMENT Weld Nut on tame side of Brake Shoe as Tangs
DISASSEMBL \'
1. Remove the caliper from the vehicle as detailed on Pages 2-18. 2. Remove the inner brake shoe hold down clips from the anchor plate, remove the locating pin insulators from the anchor plate and remove the inboard brake shoe and lining assembly (Fig. 11). 3. Place a small screw-driver under the outer brake shoe retaining clip tang and lift away from the pin groove and slide the clip from the brake shoe retaining pin. Repeat the operation to remove the other shoe retaining clip Remove the brake shoe. 4. Apply air pressure to the fluid port in the caliper with a tubber tipped nozzle to remove the piston. Place a cloth over the piston before applying air pressure to prevent damage to the piston. If the piston is seized and cannot be forced from the caliper, tap lightly around the piston while applying air pressure. Care should be taken because the piston can develop considerable force due to pressure build up. 5. Remove the dust boot from the caliper assembly. 6. Remove the rubber piston seal from the cylinder and discard it. CU:ANJN(; ANll INSPF.CTION
Clean all metal parts with denatured alcohol or a suitable solvent. Use clean, dry, compressed air to clean out and dry the grooves and passage ways. Be sure that the caliper bore and component parts are completely free of any foreign material. Check the cylinder bore and piston for damage or excessive wear. Replace the piston if it is pitted, scored, or the chrome plating is worn off. ASSEMBLY
1. Apply a film of clean brake fluid to the new caliper piston seal and install it in the cylinder bore. Be sure the seal does not become twisted and that it is seated fully in the groove.
i -13 Nut Weld' securely . to Brake Shoe
i Drill 33/64 dia. in Brake Shoe
D
-13 Nut Weld securely to Threaded ·Rod
D
IF necessary a similar tool may be made for P.B.R. Caliper from discarded brake shoe. 2. Install a new dust boot by setting the flange squarely in the outer groove of the caliper bore. 3. Coat the piston with clean Motorcraft Brake Fluid and insert into the cylinder bore. A piston retracting tool can be fabricated from a discarded outer brake shoe and a threaded rod. See diagram for details. 4. Install the piston retracting tool in the caliper with the brake shoe lances positioned in the slots in the caliper outer legs and retract the piston. NOTE: When using the piston retracting tool, turn the threaded rod one half turn at a time and pause to permit the piston to move in the seal. Reduce the time interval as the piston nears the bottom of the cylinder bore to ensure bottoming of the piston. If the piston is not fully bottomed, the spacing between the linings is insufficient to permit the brake shoe and caliper assembly to be mounted
over the rotor. 5. Position the new outer brake shoe and lining assembly on the caliper and install the outer brake shoe retaining clips. Hold the retaining pins in position with an Allen wrench or bolt while installing the retaining clips. 6. Position the caliper assembly over the rotor with the outer brake shoe against the rotor braking surface during installation in the anchor plate to prevent pinching the piston boot between the inner brake shoe and the piston. Verify that the correct caliper is assembled in the correct anchor plate as marked during disassembly. 7. Position the new stabilizer (supplied in the brake kit). Apply denatured alcohol or methylated spirits on the locating pins and attach the stabilizer to the caliper. Be sure the locating pins are free of oil, grease or dirt. Tighten the caliper locating pins finger tight.
PART 2-2-BRAKE SYSTEM
s·. Install the stabilizer to anchor plate attaching screws and tighten finger tight. 9. Remove the cap from the brake hose fitting. Install a new copper washer on each side of the hose fitting and install the brake hose on the caliper. Tighten the attaching screw to 27-32lbs. ft. torque. Bleed the brake system as detailed on Page 2-3 of this manual. 10. Fill the master cylinder as required to within 3/8 inch of the top of the reservoir. 11. With moderate pressure applied to the brake pedal torque the stabilizer attaching screws to 8-20 lb ft. and the caliper locating pins to 26-50 lb. ft. 12. Install the wheel and tyre assembly and tighten the wheel nuts to 70-115 lbs. ft. torque. 13. Pump the brake pedal prior to moving the vehicle to position the brake pads. DISC BRAKE CALIPER OVERHAUL AND BRAKE SHOE REPLACEMENT P.B.R. DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove outboard shoe by pressing down towards inboard shoe at the same time sliding forward. (2) Remove inboard shoe by sliding away from caliper piston. At the same time overcoming the resistance of the anti-rattle spring attached to the shoe. (3) Mount the caliper in a vice equipped with padded jaws. (4) Remove two cotter pins retaining guide pins. (5) Tap out guide pins using a suitable pin punch. Note Drive guide pin out from cylinder or inboard side of caliper. ( 6) Tension on anti-rattle spring will then be relieved and spring can be removed from anchor bracket hold· ing point. (7) Remove anchor bracket and remaining guide and anti-rattle spring. Clamp bracket in vice. (8) Using screw driver remove anti-rattle spring from anchor bracket and guide. (9) Remove the four guide pin boots and discard. Check guide pins for wear and plating damage. Replace guide sleeve pin assy. if damaged. (10) Remove piston by applying compressed air at the fluid inlet port of the caliper taking care not to apply air at too high a pressure as to cause the piston to l)Op out and
damage it against the outboard portion of the caliper. A thin block of wood or hardboard located in the position of the outboard shoe will assure the piston is not damaged. (11) As the piston slides out, the I.D. of the rubber boot in the groove of the piston should stretch out around the large portion of the piston allowing the piston to slide out and be removed. (12) Peel boot out of cylinder groove and discard. (13) Inspect the piston for scoring, pitting, corrosion or areas where the chrome plating is worn off. If any damage is evident, replace the piston. If not wipe clean and set aside. Black stains, if any, are caused by the seal and will do no harm. (14) Use a small pointed "wood or plastic tool to remove the pis· ton seal from its groove in the cylinder bore and discard, be careful to avoid damaging ·the seal seat. (15) Clean all parts with brake fluid and wipe dry with lint free cloth, using an air line, blow out the drilled passages and cylinder bore. ASSEMBLY
(1) Place caliper assembly on a clean bench area with the open end of cylinder up. (2) Dip new piston seal in clean disc brake fluid and install in cylinder groove. Position seal at one area in the groove and gently work around cylinder bore with a f'lllger until properly seated. Check to be sure the seal is not twisted or rolled · in its groove. (3) Coat piston boot in P.B.R. rubber grease. Place piston boot over end of piston. (4) Locate boot into groove in caliper bore. (5) liberally coat the outside diameter of piston with P.B.R. rubber grease. (6) Position piston over cylinder and press the piston straight into the cylinder until it bottoms. Use extreme care not to scratch the piston or tear the dust boot. The boot I.D. should slide up the piston as the piston moves into the cylinder and comes to rest in the piston groove. (7) Smear the inside of the guide pm sleeve with Approved High Melting Point Grease - refer specifications. (8) Smear the four guide pin boots with High Melting Point grease and assemble into sleeve with the lips facing outwards. (9) Locate fmt of guide pin sleeves in position.
2-23
(10) Line up sleeve with holes in the caliper assembly and insert guide pin using care not to damage boots. Place drift on to head of pin and tap pin into position with hammer. The pin must be entered from the outboard hole, i.e. The hole which is not cross drilled to take a cotter pin. Note Assemble guide pin with narrow rounded groove at cotter pin end. (11) Place bracket in position with hook end at the same end as the bleeder screw. Insert second sleeve and guide pin as above. Insert two split cotter pins to retain guide pin. (12) With the aid of expanding circlip pliers install the single loop anti-rattle spring over the guide pin sleeve. (13) Place a thin piece of shim material over sleeve. Locate double loop anti-rattle spring and press spring over sleeve. Remove shim material. Note It is important to ensure that the guide pin sleeve is not burred or scored during installation of anti-rattle springs. Burring of the sleeves could prevent automatic pad adjustment when compensating.for lining wear. l14) Slide inboard shoe towards caliper piston, at the same time locate anti-rattle spring inside caliper piston. ( 15) Using a screw driver to raise retaining clip slide one end of outboard shoe onto caliper housing. Repeat to place remaining end in p<;>sition. Ensure the two locating posts locate in the two holes in Caliper housing.
DUAL MASTER CYLINDER DISASSEMBLY
1. Clean the outside of the master cylinder and remove the filler cover and diaphragm. Pour out any brake fluid that remains in the cylinder. Discard the old brake fluid. 2. In the case of drum brake vehicles, prise up the two lugs on the retaining plate at the rear of the master cylinder (Fig. 25). If the secondary piston stop bolt has not been removed from the bottom of primary reservoir (Fig. 24) depress the primary piston and remove the stop bolt. 3. Remove the primary piston assembly from the master cylinder bore. Do not remove the screw that retains the primary return spring retainer, return spring and protector on the primary piston. This assembly is factory
2-24
GROUP 2-BRAKES pre-adjusted and should not be disassembled. 4. Remove the secondary piston assembly. 5. Remove the brake light warning switch from the side of the cylinder. Remove the plug from the end of the master cylinder and withdraw the differential valve and spring. INSPECTIO"' AND REPAIR
FIG. 24- Dual Master Cylinder
Disc Brakes
1. Clean all parts in clean denatured alcohol, and inspect the parts for chipping, excessive wear or damage. When using a master cylinder repair kit, install all the parts supplied. . 2. Check all recesses, openings and internal passages to be sure they are open and free of foreign matter. Use an air hose to blow out dirt and cleaning solvent. Place all parts on a clean pan or paper. 3. Inspect the master cylinder bore for signs of etching, pitting, scoring or rust. Honing of the master cylinder is not recommended. If it is necessary to hone the ma~ter cylinder bore to repair damage, do not exceed allowable hone specifications. ASSEMBLY
FIG. 25- Master Cylinder- Drum Brakes.
1. Dip all parts except the master cylinder body in clean motorcraft Brake Fluid. 2. Carefully insert the complete secondary piston and return spring assembly in the master cylinder bore. 3. Install the primary piston assembly in the master cylinder bore. On drum brake vehicles, fit the piston retainer plate to the rear of the master cylinder and lock into position by bending locking tabs into the groove. 4. Depress the primary piston and insert the secondary piston stop bolt in the bottom of the primary reservoir. 5. Install the differential valve and spring assembly and refit the plug. Do not replace the warning light switch until the system has been bled. Failure to observe this precaution will result in a damaged switch. 6. Replace the diaphragm gasket and the filler cap.
2-25
PART 2·3
SPECIFICATIONS
DISC BRAKES All Dimensions in Inches
Disc Diameter Disc Thickness (nominal) Maximum Allowable Runout . Lining Maximum Wear Limit .. ·Lining Dimensions Sedan (Except G.T.) Primary Secondary G.T. Seadan and Primary 15 cwt Ute and Van Secondary Master Cylinder .. Bore Diameter .. Disc Brake Caliper Bore Rear Wheel Cylinder Bore Falcon GT All other Sedans Waggon, Ute and Van Pedal height with 20" of vacuum and 120 lb pedal effort
DRUM BRAKES All Dimensions in Inches
11.25 Drum Diameter .. 0 . 94 0.003 Maximum Allowable Runout 0.030 Lining Maximum Wear Limit .. Rear From top of rivets (riveted linings) 1.75 X 8.35 or top of shoe (bonded linings) 1.75 X 10.75 Lining Dimensions Front 2.25 £8.35 All except 15 cwt Ute & Van 2.25 X 10.75 Primary 2.25 x 8.35 Secondary 2. 25 x 10.75 P.B.R. 1.00 15 cwt Ute & Van primary 2.25 x 8.35 2 . 375 secondary 2.25 x 10.75 Master Cylinder P.B.R. .9375 Bore diameter 1.00 .8125 Rear wheel cylinder bore Sedan .875 8125 Wagon Ute & Van .875 Front wheel cylinder bore All models 1.125 1.90" Pedal Height- at 1600 p.s.i. line pressure 3.0"
Front 10.0 Rear 10.0 0.007 0 .030 Rear
1. 75 X 8 . 35 1.75x10.75 2.25 X 8.35 2.25 X 10.75
P.B.R. CALIPER GUIDE PIN LUBRICATING GREASE- CALTEX THERMATEXT E.P.I. Hydraulic Line Diameter 0 . 188 Pressure Differential Valve-Integral with Master Cylinder. WARNING: The Warning Light Switch must be removed prior to bleeding the system and replaced on completion of the bleeding operation. Failure to observe this precaution will cause the switch to be damaged. On the G.T. vehicles the functional pressure differential valve is independent of the master cylinder. TORQUE LIMITS- GENERAL FT. LBS.
Parking Brake Control Assembly Mounting Nuts and Bolts . . 12-25 Master Cylinder to Dash Panel Screw . . 13-20 Master Cylinder to Booster 13-20 Booster to Dash Panel . . 13-20 Disc Brake Caliper Anchor Plate *Upper 110-140 to Spindle Bolts Lower 55- 75 Disc Brake Rotor Splash Shield to Spindle 9-14 Brake Hose to Caliper Connection Bolt 17-25 Caliper Locating Pins . . 26-50 Caliper Stabilizer to Am::hor Plate Bolt 8-20 Caliper Brake Shoe Clips 6-10 Caliper Bleeder Screws . . 6-15 Wheel Cylinder to Backing Plate Screws . . 10-20
Rear Brake Backing Plate to Axle Housing Removable Carrier .. 50-70 Integral Type . . 20-40 Front Brake Backing Plate to Spindle 28-35 Wheel Cylinder Bleeder Screw . . 32-65 Inch Lb. Disc Brake Calipers Bleeder Screw 6-15 Ft. Lb. Brake Hose Connection to Front Wheel Cylinder 12-20 Brake Line Connection to Rear Axle Housing 12-19 Removable Carrier 12-19 Integral Type .. Hydraulic Tube Connections** 10-15 ~X 24 10-15 x24 10-17 ! X 20 10-17 -i~ X 18 70-115 Wheel to Hub and Drum or Hub and Rotor Nuts
*
*The upper bolt must be tightened first. • • All hydraulic lines must be tightened to the specified torque value and be free of fluid leakage.
REFERENCE TO SERVICE INFORMAnON AND NOTES -
Date
Letter No.
Brief Detail
Pal•
'
'
. .
---
-
FALCON FAIRLANE w~:~~~~P GROUP 3
PAGE
PART PART PART
3-1
Suspension, Steering, Wheels and lyres, General Service
3-2 3-11
3-3
Suspension Power Steering
PART
~
Steering Column and Linkage
3-38
PART PART
3-5
Steering Gear ·_yvheels and lyres
3-45
PART
3-7
3-2
3-6
Specifications
3-20
3~48
3-53
3-2
PART
3·1
SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS AND TYRES GENERAL SERVICE
Section 1 Diagnosis and Testing
Pare ... . .... ...... ...... .
Front Wheel Alignment Check• . ... .... .. Trouble Symptoms & Causes ...... ...... ... ... .. ....
D
3-2 3-3 3-6
Pap
Se~tion
Adjustment~~
2 Common 3
4 Repairs ...... .. ....
Cleaning & Inspection ... ... .. .. .. ...... ...... .. ....
3-7 3-9
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
MANUAL SRERING Table I Page 3-6 lists various steering gear and linkage trouble symptoms i!Od possible causes. Several of these symptoms are also common to suspension frame, and wheel and tyre troubles. For this reason, be sure that the cause of the trouble is in the steering gear or linkage before adjusting, repairing. or replacing any of the steering parts.
POWER STEERING PRELIMINARY TESTS The following preliminary checks should '\!ways be made before performing any trouble-shooting operations. Check Pulhp lelt If the pump belt is broken, glazed, or worn, replace with a new belt. Use only the specified type of belt. Check The lelt Tension If the belt is too loose or too tight, it should be adjusted to the proper tension as outlined on Page 3-25. · A "used belt" Is one that has run 10 minutes or longer. Check Fluid Level Run the engine until the fluid is at normal operating temperature (165 degrees F to 175 degrees F). Then turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and right several times, and shut off the engine. Check the fluid level in the power steering reservoir. The level must show on the cross hatching between the bottom of the Dipstick and the full mark (Fig. I). If the level is low, add automatic transmission fluid M2C33F. Do not overfill the reservoir.
Check For Pluld Leaks
1. If the power steering ftuid does not already include yellowish
FIG. 1
Power Steering Pump
Dipstick green dye, pre-mix one teaspoonful of oil-soluble aniline dye with 2 pints of automatic transmission ftuid M2C33-Ft. Then refill the reservoir with the dye solution. l. With the eng10e running at idle speed, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right stop and to the left stop several times to distribute the dye solution throughout the hydraulic system. Do not hold the wheel against each wheel stop for more than 3 to S seconds. 3. Shut off the engine. and check for leaks. Fitting and Tube Seat Leak. Since mo~t fluid leaks occur at the fittings and connections in a power steering hydraulic system, these parts should be checked before any other part is replaced. Dirt, oil, and grease should be removed from all areas where leaks may ex.ist. If the fittings and conn~:ctions do not leak, check the other parts of the ~~m.
.
Check the hose connection at the pump for leaks, and tighten the hose clamp if necessary. Pump Leaks. If leakage occurs at
the pump reservoir seal, pump outlet valve seals, or the support stud seal, check the torque of the outlet valve nut and the support stud aut. If torque is within specifications, replace the reservoir seal, outlet valve seals, or the support stud seal, whichever is required if leaks are evident other than the lines. Steering gear leaks. Should a leak be found in the steering gear it will be necessary to remove the gear to effect repairs. Preloads must be reset after se.a l replacement. (See Page 3-20)' Check Turning lffort With the front wheels properly aligned and tire pressures correct. check the effort required to turn the ateerina wheel. 1. With the car on dry concrete, set the parkin1 . brakes. 2. With the eaaine warmed up and runnin1 at idle speed, tum the steer· ina wheel to the left and riaht several times to warm the fluid. 3. Attach a torque wrench to the ateerina wheel hub. lFig. 2). Check the effort required to tum the wheel at least one complete revolution in both directions. The torque should be approximately equal in both directions.
Pump-fluid Pressure Test A ftuid pressure test will show whether the pump or some other unit in the power steerina system is causinJ trouble in the system. Steps outlined below should be followed to de· termine the cause of the trouble. I. Measure the pump belt tension. When adjuadaJ the belt tensloa oa the power ateerin1 pump, do aot pry
PART 3-1- SUSPENSION, STEERrNG, WHEELS & lYRES GENERAL SERVICE 3-3 ...wt the pump to olala the proper belt load. A h81f-lnch cut boa ba been In· corporated on the front face of tile pump cover p..te onto which a 'lte Inch open end wrench can be fttte4 to ,.,. the pump and obtala the proper belt teDIIon. 2. Disconnect the pressure line hose from the pump outlet, and install a 0-2000 psi pressure gauae and shut off valve between the end of the hose and the pump outlet (Fig. 3).
7. Increase the engine speed to 1000 rpm; then, slowly close the gause shut-off valve. With the valve fully closed, the pump pressure should be 1275 ±50 psi. Do not close the •alve for more than a few seconds (maximum 5 ICC• onds), as tbls would abnormally In· crease the lubricant (lluld) temper· ature and cause undue pump and/ or steerlna gear wear. En&ine rpm should not exceed fast Idle durlq tbls test• .
If pressure Is more or ae,. than speclftcadon, rep..ce the pump as~embly.
If the preceding test results are satisfactory, proceed as follows: 8. Open the shut off valve fully, and run the engine at 1000 rpm.
9. Turn the steering wheel to full lock and read the pressure. If the pressure is not to specification, 1275 t 50 psi, the steering gear is at fault and must be removed for repair. Do not hold the steering gear against the stop for more than S seconds.
,IG. 2 -Checking Turning Effort-Typical
FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT CHECKS Do not attempt to check and adjust front wheel alignment without first making a preliminary inspection of the front-end parts. Chec)( all the factors of front wheel alignment except the turning angle before making any adjustment~. The harping angle should be checked only after caster, camber, and toe-in have been adjusted to specification. The front wheel" alignment specifications, given in Part 3-7 are correct only when the car is at "Curb Height." Before checking or adjusting the alignment factors, the suspension alignment spacers (Tool T65P3000-B) must be installed to obtain the curb heights.
Be ..-e tUt the pre 1 re pap II between the pmap ud the lbat .,. ..m, all conaeetloal . . apt, ... . . ~~tat o11 na.e 11 fair opea. 3. Connect a tachometer. 4. Start the engine and operate it at idle speed for at least two minutes to warm up the fluid. 5. Cycle the steering wheel ti'om stop-to-stop several times to expel any air from the system; stop the engine. Remove the reservoir filler cap and check the fluid level in the reservoir. If necessary, add fluid to the proper level. 8. With the engine running at ap- · proximately 500 rpm and no steering effort applied, and the fluid at normal operating temperature, the pressure gauge should show a pressure of less than 50 psi. If the pressure is higher, inspect the hoses for kinks and obstructions.
FIG. 3 ,..._.. Ttsti.. Tool Installed-Typical
3-4
GROUP 3- SUSPENSION. STEERING. WHEELS . & lYRES
EQUIPMENT INSTALLATION
Equipment- used for front wheel alignment inspection must be accurate. Alignment height spacers (Figs. 4 and · 5 are used to check caster, camber. The spacers should be omitted when checking toe-in. Controlled body height for checking and setting ~aster and cambe~ is achieved by usmg the suspension alignment spacer Tool No. T65P3000-B. When proceeding with an alignment check it is esse~tial that the alignment spacers are adJusted as described in the following paragraphs. Note: Do not use the spacers with the securing pins inse~ed in the hole marked "Falcon" as this setting is unsuitable for the Australian built model. Note: Alignment spacers are not to be used on G.T. and G.T./H.O. vehicles or on any vehicle fitted with the improved handling suspension option.
Rear Alignment Spacer Installation Take the two tubes identified Bl and the two remaining supports B3, assemble together with the pins, located in the holes marked "LINCOLN" for the Country Ride suspension or in the holes marked FAIRLANE for the Custom Ride suspension. Raise the rear of the . car slightly and fit .the spa~ers on ~e axle housing agamst the mboard side of the inner 'U' bolts with the short end of the curved foot facing the rear so as to clear the brake pipe. Position the spacer vertically so that the bump rubber plate will rest on the horizontal face of the support. Lower the car. This provides the 8" dimension required between the axle housing body side member for the Country Ride or 7" for the Custom Ride suspension.
tions provided by the equipment manufacturer. Tool • 3000 B o• C
FIG. 5 -Typical Rear Alignment Spacer Installation
Front Alignment Spacer Installation Refer specifications. From the main kit T65-3000-B, take the two tubes identified B2 and the two supports B4 ('U'-shaped plate) and assemble with the pins located in the holes marked FAIRLMUST. For use on the Country Ride , suspension or in the holes marked LINCOLN-MUST. H.D. For use on the Custom Ride suspension. Cut two 1" X I!" spacer plates from ! " flat mild steel. Raise the front of the body two or three inches one side and instal an assembled spacer over the front outer ball joint securing rivet on the flat surface of the upper suspension arm and position the upper end of the spacer adjacent to the front face of the rebound rubber as shown in Fig. 4 Place a 1• X li" X!" spacer plate in the 'U' section of the upper end of the support then lower the vehicle making sure that the bracket assembly rests on the spacer plate. .Repeat this procedure for the opposite side. The purpose of the !" thick spacer plate is to bring the effective height ofthe spacer to requirements, i.e. 7". For Country Ride or 6.25" for Custom Ride suspension.
ALIGNMENT MARKS
FIG. 6-Straight Ahead Position Marks-Typical CASTER
FIG •. 4 -Typical Front Alignment Spacer Installation 1. Drive the car m a straight line far enough to establish the straight· ahead position of the front wheels. and mark the steering wheel hub and the steering column collar (Fig. 6). Do not adjust the steering wheel spoke position at this time. If the front wheels are turned at any time during the inspection, align the marks to bring the wheels back to the straight-ahead position. l. With the car in position for the front end alil!nment inspection and adjustment, install the alignment spacers to establish the curb height. 3. Install the w h e e I alignment equipment on the car. Whichever type of equipment is used, follow the installation and inspection instruc·
Check the caster angle at each · · front wheel. Caster is the forward or rearward tilt of the top of the wheel spindle (Fig. 7). If the spindle tilts. to the rear, caster is positive. If the spin4le tilts to the front, caster is negative. The correct caster angle, or tilt, is specified in Part 3-7. The maximum difference between both front wheel f>OSITIVE
CAMBER
_!i-J Ii
NEGATIVE-, CASTER ,~l OF TIRE
CAMBER .ANGLE
I I--POSITIVE
fY
CASTER .
FRONT OF CAR
FIG. 7 -Caster and Camber Angles
PART 3-1- SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS & TYRES GENERAL SERVICE 3-5 caster angles should not exceed 'h o. However, a difference of not more than lA o is preferred. CAMBER Check the camber angle at each front wheel. Camber is the amount the front wheels are tilted at the top (Fig. 7). If a wheel tilts outward, camber is positive. If a wheel tilts inward, camber is negative. The correct camber anaJe, or outward (positive) tilt, is specified in Part 3· 7. The maximum difference between both front wheel camber angles should not exceed 'h o. However, a difference of not more than lA o is preferred.
TOE-IN Alignment height spacers are not used to check and adjust toe-in. Toein should only be checked and ad-
justed after the caster and camber has been adjusted to specification. Check the toe-in with the front wheels in the straight-ahead position. Run the engine so that the power steering will be in the centre (neutral) position (if so equipped). Measure the distance between the extreme front and also between the extreme rear of both front tyres. The difference between these two distances is the toe-in.
and toe-in adjustments and should, therefore, be measured only after these adjustments have been made. If the turning angle does not measure to specifications, check the spindle or other suspension parts for a bent condition. SLEEVE
Correct toe-in, or inward pointing of both front wheels at the front, is specified in Part 3-7. FRONT WHEEL TURNING ANGLE When the inside wheel is turned 20°, the turning angle of the outside wheel should be as specified in Part 3-7. The turning angle cannot be adjusted directly, because it is a result of the combination of caster, camber,
CASTER ADJUSTMENT
STRUT
FIG. 8- Caster and Camber Adjustments
CLAMP BOLTS
FIG. 9- Spindle Connecting
Rod Sleeve-Typical
GROUP 3- SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS & lYRES
3-6
TABLE 1-Troublt Symptoms and Possible Causes POSSIIU CAUSES OP 'lllOUIU
I J
I!.,.
';
]
f
• 1 i
a&
I
0
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X X
X
3. Overloaded or Unevenly loaded Vehicle 5. Saaing or Broken Spring 7. Rear Spring Tie Bolt Off Center 8. Broken Rear Spring Tie Bolts
X
X
9. Rear Spring Front Hanger Mislocated 10. Bent Spindle Arm 11. Bent Spindle 12. Lack of Lubrication
X
X
X
X
14. Obstruction in Power Steering Lines
X
X
16. Loose or Worn Suspension Arm Bushings
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X X X X X
X
X
X
X
X
X X
X X
X
X
X
X
23. Incorrect Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment
X
X
24. Wheel Out of Balance
l(
X
X
27. Frame or Underbody Out of Alignment
X X
X
X
X
X X X
X
X
X
X
X
X X
X
X X
X
X
X
X
X
X X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
26. Out-of-Round Wheel or Brake Drum
X
X
X
X
29. Excessive Wear of Steering Pump Internal Parts
X
X
X
X
X
30. Steering Gear Valve Spool Binding
X
X X
X
28. Bent Rear Axle Housing
X
X
X
X
X
X
X X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
20. Insufficient Steering Pump Pressure
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
19. Loose Steering Gear Mountings
X
X
X
18. Loose, Worn, or Damaged Steering Linkage or Connections
31. Obstruction Within Steering Gear
15
X
X
25. Incorrect Front Wheel Alignment
I
0
~
17. Binding Front Suspension Ball Joints or Steering Linkage
22. Incorrect Brake Adjustment
a&
X X
15. Loose or Weak Shock Absorber
21. Incorrect Steering Gear Adjustment
1 1
~
X
13. Air in Power Steerin& System
w
!
. t
J
l. Incorrect Tire Pressure
6. Glazed, loose or Broken Power Steering Pump Belt
e
I
I .. Ij
2. Tire Sizes Not Uniform 4. Power Steering Fluid level low-leak
I
:1 • •i J i • • J I I • i I I l I • ! J ...tI J J f f1 • a :;:1 f 1 :1• . • J l a.• . _.I l ! J a • ! f ! 1 j ... • • • • ~
I
J
X X
X X
X X
X X
X
X
X
X
PART 3-1- SUSPENSION. STEERING. WHEELS & lYRES GENERAL SERVICE 3-7
EJ
COMMON ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS gauge readings with the wheels positioned 20 o each way from the straight ahead position. Caster is controlled by the front suspension strut (Fig. 8). To obtain positive caster, loosen the strut rear nut and tighten the strut front nut against the bushing. To obtain negative caster, loosen the strut front nut and tighten the strut rear nut against the bushing.
After front wheel alignment factors have been checked, make the necessary adjustments. Do not attempt to adjust the front wheel alignment by bending the suspension or steerln1
,....cs. .
CASTER AND CAMIIR ADJUSTMENTS Precaution should be taken when checking the front .wheel alignment. When carrying out the check of caster angle, it is possible that the lower strut arm· bushes may not always be under equal compression and therefore, will tend to bias the strut rod in a forward or rearward position, thus afFecting the steering caster angle when the wheels are turned through their checking positions.
TUIN
ru•N DOWNWA.D TO
•oo
After the caster and camber has been adjusted to specification, torque the lower arm eccentric bolt nut and the strut front nut to specification. TOE-IN AND STEERING WHEEL ALIGNMENT ADJUSTMENTS Check the steering wheel spoke position when the front wheels are in the straiaht-ahead position. If the spokes are not in their normal position, they can be properly adjusted while toe-in is being adjusted. 1. Loosen the two clamp bolts on each spindle connecting rod sleeve (Fig. 9). 2. Adjust toe-in. If the steering wheel spokes are in their normal position, lengthen or shorten both rods equally to obtain correct toe-in (Fig. 10). If the steering wheel spokes are not in their normal position, make the necessary rod adjust-
Note: Always loosen the appropriate nut fir.st before attempting to adjust Caster, to avoid collapsing the tube between the washers or damaging · the serrated nut. Camber is controlled by the eccentric cam located at the lower arm attachment to the side rail (Fig. 8). To adjust the camber, loosen the eccentric bolt nut and spread the retaining body bracket sufficiently to. allow unrestricted lateral movement of the arm assembly in relation to the body bracket. Raise the car by placingajack under the subframe and allow the suspension to take a full
It is essential that whenever the steering caster angle is checked, that the distance from the strut bracket to each of the washers is the same. When checking the caster angle it is mandatory that the strut rubbers are centralised before taking
INC.EASE
downward position before attempting to turn the eccentric adjuster. Rotate the bolt and eccentric clockwise from the high position to increase camber or counterclockwise to decrease camber.
LENGTH
TUIN UI'WARD
DOWNWARD
TO DEC.EASE
TO DEC.EASE
TUIN UPWAID TO INCREASE 100 LENGTH
~~~lj.3 2" «~ Lin-HAND ILIIVI
RIGHT-HAND SUIYI
P1Da7·1
FIG. 1 0 -Spindle Connecting Rod Adiustment WHEN TOE-IN IS CORRECT
TURN BOTH CONNECliNG ROO SLEEVES UPWARD TO ADJUST SPOKE POSITION
TURN BOTH CONNECTING ROD SLEEVES DOWNWARD TO ADJUST SPOKE POSITION
IS~
WHEN TOE-IN NOT CORRECT
LENGTHEN LEFT ROD TO INCREASE TOE -IN
LENGIITEN RIGHT ROD TO INCREASE TOE -IN
SHORTEN RIGHT ROD TO DECREASE TOE . IN ADJUST BOTH RODS EQUALLY TO MAINTAIN NORMAL SPOKE POSITION
FIG. 11 -Toe-In and Steering Wheel Spoke Adiustments-
3-8
GROUP 3- SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS & TYRES
ments to obtain correct toe-in and steering · wheel spoke alignment . (Fig. 11). J. Recheck toe-in and steering wheel spoke alignment. If toe-in is correct and the steering wheel spokes are still not in their normal position, turn both connecting rod sleeves upward or downward the same number of turns to move the steering wheel · spokes (Fig. 11 ). . 4. When toe·m and steering wheel spoke alignment are both correct.
FIG. 12
torque the clamp bolts on both con· necting rod sleeves to specification. The sleeve position should be, as shown in Fig. 12 when the clamp bolts are tightened. STEERING GEAR FLUID CHECKING PROCEDURE MANUAL 1. ~nter the steering wheel. l. Remove the steering gear hous· ing filler plug.
-Typical Manual Steering Linkage
J. Remove the lower cover-tohousing attaching bolt. 4. With a deaa punch or like in· strument, clean out or push inward in the filler plug the loose ftuid hole and cover to housina attacbina bolt hole. · 5. Slowly tum the steering wheel to the right stop, fluid should rise within the lower cover bolt hole; then slowly turn the steering wheel to the left stop, fluid should rise within the filler plug hole. If fluid
PART 3-1- SUSPENSION. STEERING. WHEELS & TYRES GENERAL SERVICE does not rise as specified, further lubricant should be added until a lubricant rise is observed. 8. Install the lower cover-to-housing attaching bolt and the filler plug.
·EJ
3-9
STEERING GEAR FLUID CHECKING PROCEDURE (POWER). Check the fluid level in the power Run the engine until the fluid is at steering reservoir. The level must show normal operating temperature {165 on the cross hatching between the degrees F to 175 degrees F). Then bottom of the Dipstick and the full turn the steering wheel all the way to mark (Fig. 1). If the level is low, add the left and right several times, and automatic transmission fluid M2C33F. shut off the engine. Do not overfill the reservoir.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
mERINO GEAR CUANING AND INSPECnON Wash all parts in a cleaning solvent and dry with a lint-free cloth. Tile bearlq lhould aot be spun dry wltb eomprelled *·Inspect the shaft and worm for scoring, cracks or checks, and for straightness .of the abaft. Check the splines and the threads on the sector shaft for wear and burn. Inspect the gear teeth for scoring, pitting and other wear. Inspect the ball bearings for free movement, and the cups for wear or irregular surfaces. Check the housing for cracks and the sector shaft needle bearing ·for free movement or other wear. Check the power steering pump pressures. If the pump pressures are not to specification and there are no external fluid leaks, replace the pump. If the pump has a visible leak, replace the reservoir seal, outlet valve seals, or support stud seal, whichever is re· quired. fLUSHING THE POWER SBERING SYSTEM Should a power steering pump be· come inoperative, the shaft and pulley should be checked for freedom of rotation. If the pump shaft does not tum freely (binding), it is 8.!1 indicatiel' that there is wear on the pump . internal components and the need for flushing the steering system. when installing a new pump. 1. Remove the power steering pump and pulley as outlined in page 3-26.
2. Install a new pump and connect only the pressure hose to the pump (page 3-26). 3. Place the oil return line in a suitable container and plug the reservoir return pipe. 4. Fill the reservoir with fluid M2C33-F. S. Disconnect the coil wire to prevent the engine from starting and raise the front wheels off the ground
6. While approximately two quarts of steering gear fluid are being poured into the reservoir, tum the engine over using the ignition key, at the same time cycle the steering wheel from stop to stop. 7. As soon as all of the fluid has been poured in, tum off the ignition key, and attach the coil wire. I. Remove the plug from the reservoir return pipe, and attach the return hose to the reservoir. 9. Check the reservoir fluid level; if low add fluid to the proper level. Do not overftll. 10. Lower the car. 11. Start the engine and cycle the steering wheel from stop to stop to expel any trapped air from the system. FRONT END GENERAL INSPECTION
Check for damage that would affect the runout of the wheels. Wobble or shimmy caused by a damaged wheel will cause premature tyre wear and eventually damage the wheel bearings. Inspect the wheel rims for dents that could permit air to leak from the tyrea
TESTING To check a shock absorber removed from a car proceed as fol· lows: 1. Hold the shock absorber in the vertical position w i t h the piston in the same position, push in the piston rod until the shock is extended to its full length. 2. With the shock absorber held in the same position, push in the pis· ton rod until the .shock is compressed to its shortest length. 3, Repeat steps 1 and 2 several times until all the air is expelled. 4. Clamp the lower end (small di· ameter) in a vise in a vertical posi· tion. S. Extend the shock to its full length and then compress it to its shortest length. There should be a constant drag during the complete cycle. Any sudden loss of drag indi· cates air in the system, loss of fluid, or faulty internal valve operation. Replace defective shock absorbers.
UPPER BALL JOINT INSPECTION
WHEEL BALANCING See the instructions provided with the .Wheel Balancer.
1. Raise the car on a frame contact hoist or by ftoor jacjcs placed beneath the underbody until the wheel falls to the full down position as shown in Fig. 13. This will unload the upper ball joint. l. Adjust the wheel bearings al> described in
SHOCK ABSORBERS
3. Attach a dial indicator to the upper arm.
Passenger cars and station wagons are equipped with hydraulic shock absorbers of the direct-acting type and are nonadjustable and nonrefillable, and cannot be repaired. Before replacing a shock absorber, check the action of the shock absorbers by grasping the bumper and jouncing the car up and down. If the shock absorbers are in good condi· tion the car will immediately settle to a normal position after the bumper is released.
4. With the dial indicator attached to the upper arm, position the indicator so that the plunger rests against the inner side of the wheel rim adjacent to the upper arm ball joint. 5. Grasp the tyre at the top and bottom, and slowly move the tyre in and out (Fig. 13). Note the reading (radial play) on the dial indicator. If the reading exceeds specifi· ~.:ations {l'art 3-1), replace the upper ball j~int.
3-10
GROUP 3- SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS & lYRES
LOWER BALL JOINT INSPECTION
1. Raise the car on a frame contact hoist or by floor jacks placed beneath the underbody until the wheel falls to the full down position.
l. Ask an assistant to grasp the lower edge of the tyre and move the wheel in and out.
3. As the wheel is being moved in and out, observe the lower end of the spindle and the lower arm.
FIG 13 -Measurln1 Upper Ball Joint Radial Play
Durln1 the forqolaa cbeck, tbe upper ball joint wiD be unloaded and may move, Disreprd aU sucb monmeat of the upper ban )oillt. Also, do not mistake loose wbeel bearin1s for a wom baU joint.
4. Any movement between the lower end of the spindle and the lower arm indicates ball joint wear and loss of preload. If any such movement is observed, replace the lower arm.
3-11
PART 3·2
SUSPENSION
Sectioa
Page
1 Description &: Operation ...... ...... ...... ...... Front Suspension ,_... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... Rear Suspension ...... . .... ...... ...... ...... ......
3-11 3-11
2 In-Car Adjustments &: Repairs ...... ...... Upper Ball Joint Replacement ...... ...... ...... Upper Arm Shaft and/ or Bushing Replacement .. .... .. .... .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .... .... .. Stabilizer Replacement ...... ...... ...... ......
...... ......
3-12 3-12
...... ......
3-12 3-13
D
3-12
Section Lowel' Arm Strut and/ or Bushing Replacement ...... ...... -.... ...... ...... ...... 3 Removal & Installation-Front Spring Front Suspension Upper Arm ...... ...... ...... Front Wheel Spindle Drum Brakes ...... Front Wheel Spindle Disc Brakes ...... ...... Front Shock Absorber ...... ...... ...... .. .... .... .. Rear Shock Absorber ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... Rear Spring and/ or Bushing ...... ... ... .. ....
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
fRONT SUSPINSION Each front wheel rotates on a spindle. The upper and lower ends of the spindle are attached to upper and lower ball joints which are mounted to an upper and lower arm respectively. The upper arm pivots on a bush· inJ and shaft assembly which is bolted to the underbody. The lower arm pivots on a bolt that il located in an underbody bracket (Fip. 14 and 22 ). A coil sprina seats between the upper arm and the top of the sprina housina. A double actina shock absorber is bolted to the arm and the top of the sprina housina. The swivelina action of the ball joints allow the wheel and spindle assemblies to move up and down with chanaes in road surface. The swivelina ball joints also permit the spindles and wheels to be tumed to the left or riaht by the steerinaaear and linkage. The pivotin~ action of the suspension arms provides an up ad dowa movement for the spindles and wheels as required by bumps or depressions in the road surface. The coil sprinp, shock absorbers and stabilizer bar control the front suspension up and down movements. The struts, which are connected between the suspension lower arms and the underbody prevent the suspension arms from movina forward and backward.
RETAINING BOLT
FIG. 14-lront Suspension-Typical
Pa1e ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ......
3-13
3-13 3-14 3-15 3-16 3-16 3-17 3-17
3-12
GROUP 3- SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS & TYRES
FIG. 15 -Rear Suspension-Typical
EJ
REAR SUSPENSION Each rear wheel hub and brake drum assembly is bolted to the rear axle shaft flange. The wheel and axle shaft assembly rotates in the rear axle housing. Two spring
pads integral with the axle housing rest on a spring plate and rubber insulator. These are located on two leaf-type springs. The axle housing is fastened to the springs by spring clips (U-bolts), spring clip plates and nuts. (Figs. 16 and 26.) Each spring is suspended from the underbody: side rail by a hanger at the front and shackle at the rear: The upper end of each shock absorber is mounted to a bracket in the . underbody. The lower end is mounted to the spring clip plate. The springs and shock absorbers provide for up and down movement of the rear axle and wheels as required by changes in the road surface. They also cushion road shocks. Falcon vehicles fitted with the 351 CID engine and improved handling suspension and the GT Falcon are fitted with rear axle radius rods to give more positive location under heavy acceleration.
IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
HOISTING INSTRUCTIONS Damage to suspension and/ or steering linkage components may occur if care is not exercised when positioning the hoist adapters of 2 post hoists prior to lifting the car. If a 2 post hoist is used to lift the car, place the adapters under the front suspension lower arms. Do not aDow the adapten to contact the steeringllnkaae. UPPER IALL JOINT REPLACEMENT 1. Position .a support between the upper arm and frame side rail as shown in Fig16, then, raise the car and position safety stands. l. Remove ·the wheel and tire. 3. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the upper ball joint stud. 4. Position the ball joint remover tool as shown in Fig. 17. The tool should seat firmly against the ends of both studs, and not against the lower stud nut. It may be necessary to remove the lower ball joint cotter pin if it prevents the tool from seating on the lower stud. 5. Turn the tool with a wrench until both studs are under tension, and then, with a hammer, tap the spindle near the upper stud to loosen the stud from the spindle. Do not loosen the stud with tool pressure alone. Raise the stud out of the spindle bore. 6. Drill the three rivets retaining
the ball joint to the upper arm and remove the ball joint. 7. Clean the end of the arm, and remove all burrs from the hole edges. Check for cracks in the metal at the holes, and replace the arm if it is cracked. 8. Attach the new ball joint to the upper arm. Use only the bolts, nuts, and washers supplied in the kit. Do not rivet the new ball joint to the arm. Torque the nut~ to specification 9. Position the ball joint stud in the spindle bore, and torque the retaining nut to specification. Install a new cotter pin, tighten the nut if necessary to line up the cotter pin hole.
UPPER BALL JOINT STUD
ARM SUPPORT
FIG. 17 -Loosening Ball Joint Studs in Spindle-Typical 10. Lubricate the ball joint, and install the wheel and tire. Torque the lug nuts to specification . 11. Remove the safety stands, and lower the car. 12. Remove the support from between the upper arm and frame. 13. Check and, if necessary, adjust caster, camber, and toe-ln.
WOOD BLOCK
FIG. 16 Upper Arm Support
UPPER ARM SHAn AND/OR BUSHING RELACEMENT 1. Remove the shock absorber and upper mounting bracket as an assembly.
2. Raise the car on a hoist, install safety stands, and remove the wheel cover or hub cap. · 3. Remove the grease cap from the hub; then, remove the cotter pin, nut lock, adjusting nut and outer bearing from the hub. 4. Pull the wheel, tire, and the hub and drum off the spindle as an assembly. 5. Install the spring compressor, Tool 5310-A and compress the spring (Fig. 20.21 ). 6. Remove 2 upper arm to spring tower retaining nuts and swing the upper arm outboard from the spring tower. 7. Rotate the inner shaft so that the retaining studs can be removed. 8. Unscrew the bushings from the shaft and suspension arm; then, remove the shaft from the arm. 9. Position the shaft in the arm, apply grease to the new bushings and 0-rings, and install the bushings loose on the shaft and arm. Tum the bush· lap 10 that the shalt II e:udly cea· tered lD the arm. The shaft will be properly centered when dimensions A and B in FiJ.18 are equal. .
PART 3-2- SUSPENSION
3-13
11. Position the spacer parallel with the inner shaft, and force the spacer between the flanges of the upper arm (Fig.19l If the spacer can not be forced between the arm flanges due to excessive distortion, replace the upper arm assembly. 12. With the spacer positioned in the arm, torque the bushings to specification. Move the arm on the shaft to be sure that no binding exists, then remove the spacer. 13•. Connect the suspension ·u pper arm to the underbody, and release the front spring. 14. Remove the spring compressor and position the wheel, tire, and hub and drum on the spindle. 15. Install the bearing, washer, adju'lting nut and nut lock. Adjust the wheel bearing as outlined on page
STABILIZER REPLACEMENT 1. Raise the car high enough to
3-48
10. Fabricate a spacer 8 1/16" long from a section of ~-inch diameter pipe or metal of comparable size and strength.
EJ
LOWER ARM STRUT AND /OR BUSHING REPLACEMENT
Removal 1. Raise the car and install safety stands. 2. Remove the lower arm strut front retaining nut, washer and bushing at the frame bracket (Fig. 22). 3. Remove 2 bolts and nuts attaching the strut to the lower arm and remove the strut. 4. Remo"e the bushing, washer and nut from the strut.
FIG. 19-Torque Upper Ann Inner Shaft Bushings-Typical FIG. 18-Shaft Centered in Ann-Typical
provide working space, and place supports under both front wheels. 2. Disconnect the stabilizer from each link. Disconnect both stabilizer retaining brackets, and remove the stabilizer. 3. Coat the necessary parts of the stabilizer with rubber lubricant, and slide new insulators onto the stabilizer. 4. Connect the stabilizer retaining brackets, and connect the stabilizer to both links. Torque the bracket retaining screws and the link bolt nut to specification. S. Remove the supports and lower the car.
and install the cotter pin, grease cap and hub cap or wheel cover. 16. Lower the car and install the shock absorber and upper mounting bracket. 17. Check· caster, camber, and toein and adjust as necessary
Installation 1. Install the rear nut, washer and bushing on the strut. 2. Position the strut to the front bushing bracket and to the lower arm. Install the strut to lower arm attaching bolts and nuts and torque to specification. 3. Position the strut front bushing and washer on the strut and install the adjusting nut. 4. Tighten the strut adjusting nuts against the strut frame bracket. S. L.>wer the car and check caster, camber and toe-in and adjust as necessary.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
HOISTING INSTRUCnONS Damage to suspension and I or steering linkage components. may occur if care is not exercised when positionina the hoist adapters of 2 post
hoists prior to lifting the car. If a 2 post hoist is used to lift car, place the adapters under front suspension lower arms. Do .Uow the adapten to .:oatact steerlacJiDkaae.
FRONT SPRING the the aot the
Removal
1. Remove the shock absorber and upper mountina bracket as an assembly.
3-14
GROUP 3- SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS
& TYRES
1. Raise the car on a hoist, install safety stands, and remove the wheel cover or hub cap . . 3. Remove the grease cap from the hub; then, remove the cotter pin, nut lock, adjusting nut and outer bearing from the hub. 4. Remove the wheel and tyre assembly. 5. Install the spring compressor, Tool 5310-A (Fig.20), and compress the spring (Fig.21). 6. Remove 2 upper arm to spring tower retaining nuts and swing the upper arm outboard from the spring tower (Fig. 211 . 7. Release the spring compressor tool and remove the tool from the spring. Then, remove the spring from the car Installation
1. Place the spring upper insulator on the spring and secure in place with tape. 2. Position the spring in the spring tower. Install the spring compressor Tool 5310-A and compress the spring. 3. Swing the upper arm inboard and insert the bolts through t:te holes in the side of the spring tower. Then, install the retaining nuts and torque . them to specification. 4. Release the spring pressure and guide the spring into the upper arm spring seat. The end of the spring must seat against the tab on the spring seat. 5. Remove the spring compressor and position the wheel, tyre and hub and drum on the spindle. 6. Install the bearing, washer, adjusting nut a:jd nut lock. Adjust the wheel bearing as outlined on page 3-48 and install the cotter pin, grease cap, and hub cap or wheel cover. 7. Lower the car and install the shock absorber and upper mounting bracket. 8. Check caster, camber, and toein and adjust as necessary FRONT SUSPENSION UPPER ARM Removal
· 1. Remove the front shock absorber from the car. 1. Raise the car and install safety stands under the fr,ame side rails. 3. Remove the hub cap or wheel cover and the wheel and tyre
SJI().A
SJI().A ORB
FIG. 20 -Spring Compressor Installed-Upper View -Typical 4. Install the spring compressor, using Tool 53 lO-A, and compress the spring (Fig.20.21 ). 5. Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint stud and loosen the stud nut. 6. Position the ball joint remover tool as shown in Fig. 17. The tool should seat firmly against the ends of both studs and not against the lower stud nut. It may be necessary to remove the lower ball joint cotter pin if it prevents the tool from seating on the stud. 7. Turn the tool with a wrench until both studs are under tension; then, tap the spindle near the upper stud with a hammer to loosen the stud from the spin(JJe. Do not loosen the stud with tool pressure alone. 8. R :move the ball joint remover tool and remove the ball joint stud nut from the stud. 9. Remove 2 nuts and washers retaining the upper arm to the spring tower. Pull the upper arm away from the spring tower, lift the ball joint stud from the spindle, and remove the upper arm from the car. 10. Remove 2 nuts and bolts and
remove the spring pivot from the upper arm. Installation
1. Position the spring pivot to the upper arm and install the 2 attaching bolts and nuts. Torque the nuts to specification. 1. Position the upper arm to the !lpring tower and the ball joint stud to the spindle. Install but do not tighten the ball joint stud nut. 3. Position the upper arm · to spring tower and install the washers and retait~ing nuts. Torque the nuts to specification. 4. Release the spring compressor tool while aligning the spring with the upper arm spring pivot. Then, remove the tool. 5. Torque the ball joint stud nut to specification Part 3·7. Continue to tighten the nut until the slots in the nut are in line with the hole in the ball joint stud. Then, install a new cotter pin. 6. Install the wheel and tyre and the hub cap or wheel' cover. 7. Remove the safety stands and lower the car. 8. Install the shock absorber.
PART i-2- SUSPENSION
3-15 7. Install the wheel, tyre and hub and drum on the spindle and adjust the wheel bearing 8. Install the hub cap or wheel cover, remove the safety stands, and low· er the car. 9. Check caster, camber, and toe· in and adjust as necessary.
FRONT WHEEL SPINDLE DRUM BRAKES Removal
1. Position a support between the upper arm and frame as shown in Fig.16, then, raise the car and position safety stands. 2. Remove the hub cap or wheel
FIG. 21 -Compressing
Sprin~rlowtr
FRONT SUSPENSION LOWER ARM Removal
1. Raise the car and position safety stands under thr. sidt rails. 2. Remove the hub cap or wheel cover. 3. Remove the wheel, tyre and hub and drum as an assembly. 4. Remove the stabilizer bar link retaining out and remove the washers, bushings, spacer, and link bolt (Fig. 22). 5. Remove the 2 strut to lower arm attaching outs and bolts. 6. Remove the lower bait joint stud nut cotter pin and loosen the out one or two turns. Do not remove the nat from lhe stud 8t this dme. 7. Position the ball joint remover tool between the upper and lower ball joint studs in the reverse position (upside down) from that shown in Fig. 17 The tool should seat firmly aplnst the ends or both studs and not against the stud DUtl. 8. Turn the tool with a wrench until the studs are under tension. Tap the spindle near the lower stud with a hammer to loosen the stud in the spindle. Do not l001en lhe stud with tool pressure only.
View 9. Remove the tool and remove the nut from the lower ball joint stud. 10. Mark the location of the eccentric and eccentric bolt at the low· er arm to underbody attachment. 11. Remove the nut, bolt, and eccentrics attaching the lower arm to the underbody and remove the lower arm.
Installation 1. Position the lower arm to the underbody and install the bolt, eccentrics, and nut. 2. Position the ball joint stud in the spindle bore and install the r~taioing nut. 3. Adjust the eccentrics to the previous marked location and torque the nut to specification 4. Position the strut to the lower arm and install the attaching bolts and nuts. Torque the nuts to specification 5. Position the stabilizer bar link to the lower arm and install the bolt, washers, bushings, spacer, and retain· ina nut. Torque the nut to specification 6. Torque the lower ball joint stud nut to specification and install the cotter pin.
cover. 3. Remove the grease cap from the hub; then, remove the adjusting nut, washer, and outer bearing cone and roller assembly. 4. Pull the wheel, hub, and drum assembly off the wheel spindle. 5. Remove the brake carrier plate from the spindle. Support the plate to prevent damage to the brake hose. 6. Disconnect the spindle connecting rod end from the spindle arm 7. Remove the cotter pins from both ball joint stud outs, and loosen the nuts one or two turns. Do not·reJDOYe tiae auCI from the ltuda at tbll dme. 8. Position the ball joint remover tool between the upper and lower ball joint studs (Fia. 17 J. The tool lbould seat firmly apbut the eads or both studs and not apbut the stud DUtl.
.
9. Tum the tool with a wrench until the tool plaees the studs under ten· sion, and, with a hammer, tap the spindle near the studs to loosen them in the spindle. Do not loosen the studs In the spindle with tool ,.... sure alone. 10. Remove the stud outs and remove the spindle from both studs. Installation 1. Position the spindle on the low· er ball joint stud and install the stud nut (Fig. 22). 2. Raise the lower suspension arm, and guide the upper ball joint stud in· to the spindle. Install the stud nut. 3. Torque the upper stud nut and then the lower stud out to specifica· tion. Continue to tighten both nuts until the cotter pin holes and slots line up. Install new cotter pins. 4. Connect the spindle connecting rod end to the spindle arm.
3-16
GROUP 3- SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS
& TYRES
FIG. 22 -Front Suspension Assembly5. Install the brake carrier plate on the spindle, and torque the bolts to specification. 6. Install the wheel and drum and adjust the wheel bearing Page 3-48 7. Remove the safety stands, and lower the car. I. Remove the support from be· tween the upper arm and frame. 9. Check and, If necessary, adjust easter, eamber, and toe·ln.
FRONT WHUL SPINDLE DISC BRAKES Removal 1. Remove the hub cap or wheel cover, and remove the wheel and tire from the hub. 2. Remove two bolts attaching the caliper to the spindle. Remove the caliper from the disc and wire it to the underbody to prevent damage to the brake hose. 3. Remove the grease cap from the hub, then, remove the adjusting nu,t, washer, and outer bearing cone and roller assembly. 4. Pull the hub and disc assembly off the wheel spindle. S. Remove four bolts and nuts and remove splash shield from the spindle. 6. Disconnect the spindle connect· ina rod end from the spindle arm
7. Remove the cotter pins from both ball joint stud nuts, and loosen the nuts one or two turns. Do not re· move the outs from the studs at this time. 8. Position the ball joint remover tool between the upper and lower ball joint studs (FiJ.l7). The tool should seat firmly against the ends of both studs and not against the stud outs. 9. Tum the tool with a wrench until the tool places the studs under tension, and, with a hammer, tap the spindle near the studs to loosen them in the spindle. Do not loosen the studs In the spindle with tool pressure alone• • 10. Position a floor jack under the lower suspension arm. 11. Remove the upper and lower ball joint stOd nuts; lower the jack and remove the spindle. Installation
1. Position the spindle on the lower ball joint stud and install the stud nut (Fig 22). Torque the nut to specification and install the cotter pin. 2. Raise the lower suspension arm, and guide the upper ball joint stud into the spindle. Install the stud nut. 3. Torque the nut to specifications and install the cotter pin. Then, remove the floor jack.
4. Connect the spindle connecting rod end to the spindle arm and install the retaining nut. Torque the nut to specification and install the cotter pin. 5. Position the splash shield to the spindle and install the attaching bolts and nuts. Torque the nuts and bolts to specification. 6. Install the hub and disc on the spindle. 7. Position the caliper to the disc and caliper bracket and install the attaching bolts. 8. Install the wheel and tire on the hub and adjust the wheel bearing
9. Install the hub cap or wheel cover. 10. Before driving the car, pump the brake pedal . several times to obtain normal brake lining to disc clearance and restore normal brake pedal travel. FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER
REMOVAL 1. Raise the hood and remove 3 shock. absorber upper mounting bracket to spring tower retaining nuts.
3-17
PART 3-2- SUSPENSION 2. Raise the front of the car and place safety stands under the lower arms. 3. Remove 2 shock absorber lower retaining nuts and washers (Fig. 23 ). 4. Lift the shock absorber and upper bracket from the spring tower (Fig. 23 ) and remove the bracket from the shock absorber.
SHOCK ABSORBER ACCESS COVER
bushing on each shock absorber stud. 2. Expand the shock absorber and position it to the spring clip plate and to the mounting in the floor pan. 3. Connect the lower stud to the spring clip plate, and install the bushing, washer, and nut on the stud (Fig. 261. Be sure tbe spring clip plate Is free of bum. Tighten the nut to specification. 4. From the luggage compartment, install the bushing washer and retaining nut to the upper mounting · stud (Fig. 2 5) . Torque to specification. On a station wagon, replace the fioor bed panel 5. Place the spare wheel and tyrE in the luggage compartment, and secure it in the storage position.
LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT FLOOR PANEL
REAR SPRING AND/OR BUSHING
FIG. 24 -Rear Shock Absorber Access Cover REAR
SHOCK ~
ABSORBER-
Removal
1. Open the luggage compartment door, and remove the spare wheel and tyre On a station wagon, remove the floor bed panel. . 2. Fold back the floor mat and remove the shock absorber access cover from the floor pan. Rerr..ove the nut, outer washer, and rubber bushing that retain the shock absorber to the upper mounting in the floor pan (Fig. 25).
FIG. 23 -Removing or Installing Front Shock Absorber-Typical
INSTALLATION 1. Install the upper mounting bracket on the shock absorber and torque to specification. 2. Position the shock absorber and upper mounting bracket in the spring tower, making sure the shock absorber lower studs are in the pivot plate holes. J. Install the 2 washers a'Dd retaining nuts on the shock absorber lower studs and torque to specification. 4. Install the 3 shock absorber up· per mounting bracket to spring towet retaining nuts and torque to specification. Then, remove the safety stands and lower the car.
Installation
1. Place the inner washer and
.
'
'l?~ ;~fi·.'-. .
~ i_J.~. . .
~·. ..•.~· ACCESS COVER
JL.. _
F1155-A
FIG. 25 -Rear Shock Absorber Upper Mounting - Typical 3. Raise the car and remove the retaining nut, outer washer and bush· ing from the shock absorber at the spring clip plate (Fig. 26). Compress the shock absorber and remove it from the car. 4. If the shock absorber is serviceable and requires new bushings remove the inner bushings and washers from the shock absorber studs.
REMOVAL . 1. Raise the car on a hoist and place supports beneath the underbody and under the axle. 2. Disconnect the lower end of the shock absorber from the spring clip plate, and push the shock out of the way. 3. Remove the spring clip plate nuts from the U-bolts; then, remove the plate (Fig. 2 6 ). 4. Remove the two retaining nuts, the rear shackle bar, and the two shackle inner bushings. 5. Remove the rear shackle assembly and the two outer bushings. 6. Remove the front hanger bolt, nut, and washer from the eye at the forward end of the spring. Lift out the spring assembly. 7. If the front bushing is being replaced, assemble the special tool combination to the bushing in the spring front eye as shown in Fig. 27. 8. While holding the tool nut, tighten the tool bolt against the tool thrust washer, the adapter, and detail Al. This operation will force the bushing out of the spring eye into detail A4 of the tool as shown. INSTALLATION 1. Assemble the bushing and the spec1al tool combination to the spring front eye as shown in Fig. 28. 2. While holding the tool nut, tight· en the tool bolt against the tool thrust washer, adapter, and detail A4 to force the bushing into the spring eye as shown.
3-18
GROUP 3- SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS & lYRES
Utility and Van .
FIG. 26 -Rear Spring & Shock Absorber Typical ·
PART 3-2- SUSPENSION
3. Position the spiina under the rear axle and insert the shackle assembly into the rear hanaer bracket and the rear eye of the sprina. 4. Install the shackle inner bushinp, the shackle plate, and the locknuts. TiJhten the locknuts finaer tiaht. 5• Position the ipriog front eye in the front hanaer, slip the washer on the front hanaer bolt, and (from the inboard aide) insert the bolt throuah the hanaer and eye. Install the lock out on me: UIWIJCr oon ana tiahten ftnaer tisht. '- Torque the rear shackle locknuts to specification. 7. Lower the rear axle until it resta on the sprioa. Position the sprina clip plate on ·the clips (U-bolts). Install the U-bolt outs and torque to specifi. cation. 8. Connect the lower end of the · shock absorber to the sprina clip plate. 9. Place safety stands under the rear axle, lower the car until the sprina is in the approximate curb load position, and then torque the front hanger stud . lockout to specification. 10. Remove the safety stands and · )c)wer the car.
3-19
.5781-84 (n,,., Wash«)
FIG. 27 -Re• Spring Front Bushing Removal-Typical
FIG. 28 -Rtar Spring Front Bushing Installation-Typical REAR SUSPENSION RADIUS ROD Removal 1. Raise the car on a hoist or jack. 2. Remove the wheel. 3. Remove the front attaching bolt. 4. Remove the rear attaching from the axle mounting bracket and remove the radius rod.
Installation 1. Place the front of the radius rod in the bracket on the body side member. Insert the attaching bolt but do not tighten. 2. Place the rear of the radius rod in the axle bracket and insert the attaching bolt. 3. Torque both mounting bolts to
specification. Note: The rear suspension must be at curb weight position before torquing the attaching bolts to ensure that the bushes are neutralized. 4. Replace the wheel, torque the wheel nuts to specification and fit the hub cap. 5. Lower the car.
3-20
PART 3·3
POWER STEERING
Section 1 Description & Operation .... Operation .. .. ... . ........... .......... ..... ... ....... . Power Steering Pump ..... ...... .... .. ... ... ........... . J:o'low Control Valve ... ..... ............ ........ . Pressure Relief Valve ...... ...... ..... . 2 In-Car Adjustments & Repairs ..... . Pump Belt Tension Adjustment ... ·..
Page 3-20 3-21 3-24 3-25 3-25 3-25 3-25
Power Steering Pump to Steering Box Hoses &Tubes ............ .. 3 Removal & Installation
3-25 3-25
u
D
.. . ...
•. • • . •
•••• .•
• ... ..
Section Pare Power Steering Pump ·r... ...... .. .. .. ...... ...... ...... 3-26 6 Cylinder Engine ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... 3-26 8 Cylinder Engine .. ... ...... ...... ...... ...... 3-26 Power Steering Pump Pulley ...... ...... ...... ...... 3-26 4 Major Repair Operations ...... ...... .. .... ...A. ...... 3-26 Power Steering Gear - Disassembly ..... ..... ..... 3-30 Inspection & Overhaul of Component Assemblies 3-30 Sector Shaft Assembly ..... ..... 3-30 3-31 Piston Rack ..... ..... ..... ..... Worm Valve & Sleeve Assembly 3-31 3-32 Reassembly ..... ..... ..... ..... 3-36 Setting Preloads on Steering Gear..... Fitment of Steering Geat to Vehicle 3-37
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
DESCRIPTION The Bendix-Bishop Variable Ratio Integral Steering Gear is an entirely new unit, and has unique features designed to reduce steering wheel turns, increase road 'feel' and simplify maintenance. The term 'Integral' is used to denote that the power cylinder and valve mechanism are incorporated in the steering gear itself, as distinct from having a separate booster cylinder and valve as with linkage-boosted gears. The hydraulic oil supplied from the power steering pump serves to lubricate the gear mechanism. No bleeding of this unit is required. 'Variable Ratio' refers to the fact that steering in the straight-ahead position is substantially less direct than in turns, to such an extent that, whereas four turns of the steering wheel would be required if the 'on centre' ratio were used constantly from lock to lock; in fact, only 2* are needed with this system. This feature is provided by a variable pitch hourglass worm. Hydraulic oil flows continually from the pump mounted on the engine to the steering gear at a regulated constant flow of about two gallons per minute, but for nor-
Fig. 29 Bendix-Bishop Variable Ratio Steering Gear
mal driving very little pressure is required to maintain the flow, and hence little power is absorbed. When turning or parking however, the free flow of oil is restricted by the rotary valve; pressure builds up almost in·
PART 3-3- POWER STEERING
3-21
stantly in the system iUld is directed by the valve to whichev~r. side of the power cylinder is appropriate to assist the driver, thus engine power is absorbed only when needed. The manual and power sections of this steering gear are arranged one above the other as shown in Figure 30 and have individual adjustments for lash. Thus, should wear occur in the power section of the gear and not be adjusted, this will not affect the fine adjustment of the manual section, which feature is important in retaining accurate slackfree steering. The manual section is only subjected to very light loads under all normal circumstances. The manual section shown in Figure 31 comprises an hourglass worm which engages a single roller follower mounted on needle bearings in the sector shaft shown in section in this view. The thread of the hourglass worm has a different pitch or lead in the middle where it controls the 'on centre' driving ratio, to that towards the ends, where it controls the cornering ratio. There are no sharp changes of ratio so that the effects of this variation are not discernible to the driver except as an overall reduction in wheel turns. . Between the worm and the input shaft is located the rotary valve whose function is to sense the appropriate conditions calling for the app- . lication of power assistance. The hydraulic pump, belt-driven from the engine crankshaft, draws fluid from the reservoir and provides fluid pressure for the system. Within the pump itself is a pressure-relief valve which governs the pressures within the steering system according to the varying conditions of operation. After fluid has passed from the pump to the steering box it returns to the reservoir. The power steering pump is a slipper type pump which is integral with the reservoir. It is constructed ~o that the reservoir is attached to the rear side of the pump housing front plate and the pump body is encased within the reservoir. ·
OPERATION The term 'Rotary valve' is used because valve operation relies on
ROTARY VALVE OUTLET
INPUT SHAFT
Fig. 30
Steering Gear- Manual
LOCKING SPRING WORM FOLLOWER Section ADJUSTER
ACCESS PLUG FOR WORM FOLLOWER ADJUSTER SCREW TOP COVER
WORM ADJUSTING SCREW
LOCKNUT----~a. ~~~~~~~~~~
Fig. 31
Steering Gear
relative rotation between the parts, not longitudinal sliding as for most valves. The valve as a whole, comprising an inner member which forms part of the input shaft, and the surrounding sleeve member rotates in the steering gear housing as the steering wheel is turned, but it is only a slight relative rotation between the shaft and the sleeve that is used to direct and control the flow of oil. Oil is communicated to and from the valve to the pump and to the left and right hand sides of the power assist piston by circumferential grooves separated by the Teflon seals in the outside of the sleeve. The sleeve is coupled by a pin drive to the worm while the input shaft is coupled to it by a torsion bar. Operation of the valve in the left turn is shown in Figure 32 where the sleeve and input shaft are both broken away to show the central torsion bar. It will be seen that oil flow is directed by a number of longitudinal grooves alternately located in the outer surface of the
input shaft and the inner surface of the sleeve. These grooves slightly overlap each other when the valve is central. Drilled holes connect the slots in the inside of sleeve to the circumferential grooves referred to above. When no power assist is called for oil from the pump divides equally between the right and left turn sets of slots, and there is no resulting pressure difference across the piston. As soon as slight relative rotation occurs however, oil is restricted in its free return to the pump and simultaneously directed to the appropriate side of the piston, while at the same time oil on the inoperative side of the piston is vented to the return line. This action is slight at first so that only a small amount of boost is provided, but becomes progressively greater as the torsion bar flexes and the driver requires more assist, so that in parking, more than 90% of the work is done by the oil. In order to effect this graduated increase of assist, and to give a realistic 'feel' and good response, the grooves of the shaft are precisely metered in a specific form.
J-22
GROUP J- SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEE:LS
& TYRES
r1
I RACK ADJUSTING SCREW
RACK ADJUSTING PAD
SECTOR SHAFT
Note, that on extreme load con-"'<.£.:~=..-?·-' ditions or when for any reason the boost system is inoperative, the torsion bar deflects suffiCiently to allow the input shaft to drive the hourglass worm directly. This is accomplished by having a loose fitting spline between the lower end of tht: input shaft and the surrounding upper end of the hourglass worm. Naturally steering loads are high under these conditions and a noticeable amount of slack develops due to the flexing of the torsion bar, but the steering gear remains entirely operable. In the interests of safety, the ·car should be operated in this manner only for the minimum distance needed to reach a point where the system . can be serviced. Figure 32 shows the power section • of the gear and it will be seen that the sector shaft, again in section, has three teeth formed in it engaging in the combined rack piston. This rack piston has a spherical form to the circumference of the piston head and aligns itself in the housing bore according to the mesh. of the teeth. These teeth are specially designed to provide extra turning power as needed towards the locks and also are of varying tightness of mesh so that the centre teeth engagement may be always kept slack-free. Reaction of teeth engagement is taken by a hardened pad adjustably positioned in the housing. Wear is miriimal at this point and the infrequent adjustments should only be made strictly in accordance with the procedure laid down on page 3-36. Senous damage can result from improper adjustment.
Fig. 32 Operation of Rotary Valve on Left Turn
PUMP
STEERING ON CENTRE
•
PUMP OUTPUT
•
RETURN TO PUMP
•
STATIC
VIEW TOWARD WORM
STEERING GEAR
STEERING GEAR Fig. 33 Oil Flow.- Gear on Centre
PART 3· 3- POWER STEERING
PUMP
STEERING ON RIGHT TURN
•
PUMP OUTPUT
D
RETURN TO PUMP
STEERING GEAR
Fig. 34 Oil Flow - Gear on Right Turn
PUMP
STEERING ON LEFT TURN
•
PUMP OUTPUT RETURN TO PUMP
STEERING GEAR
Fig. 35 Oil Flow- Gear on Left Turn
STEERING GEAR
3-23
3-24
GROUP 3- SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS
POWER STEERING PUMP The pump rotor has 8 slippers and springs which rotate inside a cam insert containing two lobes 180° from each other. The cam insert and the pump port plates provide a sealed chamber within which the rotor and slippers rotate between the two lobes for pump operation. As the rotor turns, the slippers are forced outward against the inner surface of the cam insert by a combination of centrifugal force, slipper spring force and fluid pressure acting on the under side of the slipper. A pair of adjacent slippers, along with the surfaces of the rotor, cam and pressure plates, form a sealed chamber within the crescent-shaped void. As this sealed chamber moves throup the crescent shaped void its volume cbanaes, resultina in a pumpina action. As the rotor rotates 90° (Fig. 36), the slipper slides outward in its slot, ridina on 'the cam and the volume of the sealed chamber increases. This creates a vacuum and sets up a suction area. With the inlet port placed in this are-a, the chamber will fill with ftuid. As the rotor rotates from 90° to 180°, the volume of the sealed chamber decreases, thus creating a pressure area. The pressure or outlet port is located in this area. While this pumpina action is goina on between 0° and 180°, the same condition is occurring between 180° and 360°. This combination creates what is known as a balanced rotor pump. The two pressure and suction quad-
& lYRES
FIG. 36-Power Steering Pump Cycle
ORIFICE PLUG Gl479·8
FIG. 37 -Power Steering Pump-Sedional View
PART 3-3- POWER STEERING rants are diametrically opposite each other. FLOW CONTROL VALVE Since the pump is a constant displacement pump, the internal flow will vary directly with the pump speed. However, a power steering gear requires a relatively high constant rate of flow in the parking zol!e and up to approximately 2800 RPM and thereafter a lower rate of flow. This is accomplished by means of a variable orifice mechanism shown in f-ig.
37.
All of the internal pump flow is ported from the pumping mechanism (rotor, slippers, and cam insert),
EJ
through passage A into the flo\1{ control zone. All of flow goes through the orifice and out into the line until the bypass port is cracked open: This is the regulation point. The oil drops in pressure in moving through the orifice. The lower pressure is then sensed through a hole drilled in the cover communicating to the rear of the spool valve. The difference in pressure thus created on the spool . valve increases steadily and proportionally with increasing RPM and this moves the valve progressively back into its bore, thus increasing the openmg of the bypass port. . The metering pin (Fig. 37) travels with the spool valve decreasing the net area of the orifice at higher speeds. This action reduces flow to the steering gear.
3-25 PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE When the steering wheel is turned completely to the stop position in the right or left turn direction, or in the case of a road load of sufficient magnitude, the steering gear will not accept any flow from the pump, except for a very limited volume of oil due to leakage past valve seals. Because of this resistance, excessive hydraulic pressure would be developed, if it were not limited by the pressure relief valve. When relief pressure is reached, the pressure relief ball is forced off its seat, allowing oil to pass through the spool valve and dump into the bypass port (Fig. 37). The relief valve will continue to limit oil pressure to the relief setting for the duration of the overload condition.
IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
· HOISTING INSTRUCTIONS Damage to suspension and/ or steering linkage components may occur if care is not exercised when positioning the hoist adapters of l post hoists prior to lifting the car. If a 2 post hoist is used to lift the car, place the adapters under the front suspension lower arms. Do not aUow the adapten to contact the steering linkage, Pf.lMP BELT TENSION AD)UsTMENT Pump drive belt tension cannot be checked accurately using the thumb pressure or belt deflection methods. Correct belt adjustment is assured only with the use of a belt tension gauge. 1. Check the belt tension with a . belt tension gauge ( 8620-.H). With a new belt, or one that has been run for less than 10 minutes, the tension should be within 120-150 lbs. With a belt that has been run for more than 10 minutes, the tension should be within 90-120 lbs. 2. To adjust the belt, loosen the mounting bolts incorporated on the front face of the pump cover plate (hub side) and one nut at the rear. Place a Ofto inch open end wrench on the projecting lh inch boss on the front face of the pump cover plate and pry upward to adjust belt tension.
When adjusting the power steering pump belt tension, do not pry against the pump or reservoir to obtain the proper belt tension. The reservoir will be deformed when pried on or pressed against and a leak will result. 3. Recheck the belt tension. When the tension has been correctly adjusted, torque the bolts and the nut to specification.
POWER STEERING PUMP TO STEERING BOX HOSES AND TUBES
Removal 1. Remove the fluid from the pump reservoir with a suction gun. 2. Disconnect the fluid return and pressure hoses from the steering box and allow to drain into a pan. 3. Disconnect the fluid return and pressure hoses from the pump. 4. Raise the car on a hoist. 5. Remove the two bolts from the left hand engine mount and one bolt from the right hand engine mount that attach the three tube clamps to the crossmember. 6. Lower the tubes, clamps and insulator assemblies from the car. 7. To remove the clamp and insulator assemblies from the tubes it is necessary to compress the clamp and insulator slightly with a pair of pliers
to release the locking tongue and while compressed lever the two legs of the clamp apart with a screw driver. The clamp and insulator may now be removed from the tubes. Installation 8. Install the retaining clamps and insulators on the tubes. When installed · on the insulators it is necessary to compress the clamp sufficiently to allow the locking tongue to snap into place. N.B. The fluid return hose must be in the uppermost position in the in· sulators when fitted to the car. 9. Position the tube and hose assemblies on the crossmember, insert the attaching bolts and torque to specifications. 10. Lower the car. 11. Connect the fluid return hose and pressure pipe to the steering box. 12. Connect the fluid return and pressure hoses to the pump. Torque all unions and clamps to specifica· tions. 13. Fill the pump to the correct level with M2C33F Automatic transmission fluid. 14. Start the engine and turn the steering wheel to each end of its travel several times to cycle the system. Then, check for fluid leaks. 15. Stop the engine and check the power steering fluid level. Add fluid as required.
3-26
EJ
GROUP 3- SUSPENSION STEERING, WHEELS & lYRES REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
HOISnNG INSTRUCTIONS Damage to suspension and/ or steering linkage components may occur if care is not exercised when positioning the hoist adapters of 2 post hoists prior to lifting the car. If a 2 post hoist is used to lift the car, place the adapters under the front suspension lower arms. Do not dow the adapten to contact the steertaa llabp.
STEERING GEAR Refer to Page 3-46 for detailed instructions.
POWER STEERING PUMP 6-CYLINDER Removal 1. Remove the filler cap from the reservoir and remove the ftuid with a suction gun 2. Discono'ect the ftuid return hose from the reservoir. 3. DisconneCt the oil pressure hose from the pump. 4. Loosen the adjusting bolts and remove the drive belt from the pulley. 5. Remove 3 bolts retaining the pump to the bracket and remove the pump from the bracket.
a
Installation 1. Position the pump to the bracket and install the 3 retaining bolts. 2. Position the belt on the pulley and adjust the belt tension to specification. Torque the retaining bolts to specification. 3. Torque the outlet fitting hex nut to specification. Then, connect the pressure hose to the fitting and torque the hose nut to specification. 4. Connect the return hose to the reservOir and tighten the clamp. 5. Fill the pump reservoir to the correct level with transmission ftuid M2C33F . Start the engine and tum the steering wheel to each end of its travel several times to cycle the system and -.:heck for leaks.
Check the fluid level and fill as · required and install the filler cap. 8..CYLINDER Removal
1. Remove the fill cap from the reservoir and remove the ftuid with a suction gun. 2. Disconnect the ftuid return hose from the reservoir. 3. Disconnect the oil pressure hose from the pump.
4. Loosen the belt adjusting baUs and nut and remove the drive belt from the pump pulley. 5. Remove 3 bolts and 1 nut retaining the pump to the bracket and remove the pump from the car. Installation
1. Position the pump to the bracket and loosely install the 2 pivot bolts and 2 adjusting bolts. 2. Position the drive belt on the pulley and adjust the belt tension to specification . · Tighten the adjusting bolts and pivot bolts to specification. 3. Torque the outlet fitting hex nut to specification. Then, connect · the pressure hose to the fitting and torque the hose nut to specifiCation. 4. Connect the return hose to the reservoir and tighten the clamp. 5. Fill the pump reservoir to the correct level with transmission ftuid M2C 33F. Start the engine and tum the steering wheel to each end of its travel several times to cycle the system and check for leaks. Check the ftuid level, fill as required, and install the filler cap.
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS
POWER STEERING PUMP PULLEY REMOVAL Other tban puDey removal and reservoir or seal replacement, the pump should not be disassembled but re· placed as a unit. 1. Drain as much of the ftuid as possible from the pump through the fill pipe. 2. Install a %-16 capscrew in the end of the pump shaft to prevent damage to the shaft end by the tool screw. 3. Install the pulley remover tool, T63L-10300-B on the pulley hub, and place the tool and pump in a vise as shown in Fig. 38 4. Hold the pump and rotate the tool nut counterclockwise to remove the pulley Fig. 38 .
INSTALLATION · 1. Position the pulley to the pump shaft and install fool 3A733-A as shown in Fig. 39 2. Hold pump and rotate the tool nut clockwise to install the pulley on the shaft. The pulley will be ftush with ·the end of the pump shaft. Install the pulley without in and out pressure on the shaft to prevent damage to internal thrust areas. 3. Remove the tool.
FIG. 38- Removing Power Steering Pump Pulley
3-27
PART 3·)- POWER STEERING reservoir by tapping around the flange with a wood block Fig. 40 4. Remove the reservoir 0-ring seal, the outlet fitting gasket, and the support stud copper gasket from the pump. INSTALLATION 1. Install a new gasket on the outlet fitting, a new copper gasket on the support stud, and a new reservoir 0-ring seal on the pump housing plate Fig. 41. The old gaskets and leal lbould never be re-used. 2. Apply vaseline to the reservoir 0-ring seal and to tbe inside edge of the new reservoir flange. Do not twist the 0-ring seaL 3. Position the reservoir over the pump and align the reservoir with the outlet fitting and the stud hole. 4. Install the reser,.oir on the pump and 0-ring seal with a plastic or rubber hammer and a block of wood as shown in Fig. 42 . Tap at
FIG. 39- Installing Power Steering Pump Pulley
6. Position the service indentification tag on the outlet fitting and in·. stall the outlet fitting hex nut. Torque the out to specification (Part 3-7). Do not exceed specificadon. 7. Install the stud out and torque to specification. OUTLET FITTING GASKET
Too/ T57L SOO·A
FIG. 41 -Gasket Locations
POWER STEERING PUMP RESERVOIR REPLACEMENT
Reservoir replacement must be done on a clean workbench. Cleanliness of work area and tools is extremely important when repairing any hydraulic unit. Thoroughly clean the exterior of the pump with a suitable cleaning solvent. Do not 1Jn. merse tbe shaft oil leal In IOivat. Plug the inlet and outlet openings with plugs or masking tape before cleaning the pump exterior or removing the reservoir. REMOVAL 1. Position the pump in a bench mounted holding fixture,
FIG. 40' -Removing Pump Reservoir
2. Rotate the pump so the pulley aide is facio& down and remove the outlet fittin& hex nut. stud nuts, and service identification tag. 3. Invert the pump so the pulley side is facio& up and remove the
tbe rear of the reservoir and on the outer edges only. !. Inspect the assembly to be sure the reservoir is evenly seated on the pump housing plate.
FIG. 42 -Installing Reservoir on Pump -Typical
I...
C)
~·
o·
j" ; ... t ~ I...
[ !. <
'tJ
)(
m
2
43 4<4
45
,
11\---f-\-~-
...- ~ ~
G
6
ASSEMBLY 34 COMPRISES 22.23.2<4.35.36. AND 65
ASSEMBLY 19 COMPRISES 1.2.3A.5.6.7.89JOJ I AND 18
47
65
48
4
ASSEMBLY
2 .
~
2
E
b~--
·~~
11:---.f "
•JldV
38
19 ASSEMBLY
(AOTATEO THROUOH IICt FOR CLARITY)
34
ASSEMBlY
_J"
6
rn"'
::<
$20
[i;
~ I m m
G')
"'z
m
m
~
~
(/)
z
m
"'tJ
c(/)
(/)
I
0
"c:.,,.,
~
w
PART 3-3- POWER STEERING
1. Collar - Thrust. 2.
3. 4. S. 6. 7. 8. . 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14.
15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 22.
23. 24.
25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30.
31. 32. 33. 34.
Ring- Spacer. Race- Thrust. Follower - Wonn. Sleeve- Eccentric. Needle Roller. Adjuster- Eccentric Sleeve. Sector Shaft. Screw -Adjusting. Clip- Adjusting Screw Locking. Screw- Drive. Cover and Bush Assy. Cover. Screw and Lockwasher Assy.- Cov~r. Plug- Cover. Seal -Cover. Bush - Bearing. Pin. Sector Shaft and Follower Assy. Ball - Sealing. Tube- Outlet Connection. Seat - Inlet Connection. Locknut- Rack Adjusting Screw. Seal- Rack Adjusting Screw. Screw - Rack Adjusting. Pad - Rack Adjusting. Bearing- Sector Shaft. Cover - Piston. Seal- Piston. Piston Rack. Piston Rack Assy. Housing Assy. - Steering Gear.
35. 36.
37. 38. 39. 41. 42. 43.
44. 45. 46. 47.
48. 49. SO. 51. 52. 53. 54. 55. 56. 51. 58. 59. 60. 61. 62. 63.
64. 65.
66. 68. 69.
Housing. Bearing - Sector Shaft. Seal - Sector Shaft. Ring- Seal Back-up. Clip- Retainer. Dust Excluder- Sector Shaft. Locknut - Bearing Adjusting Screw. Screw- Bearin~ Adjusting. Seal- Be11:• l Adjusting Nut . Race - ..l!eanng. Cage - Bearing. Wonn. Wonn, Valve and Sleeve Assy. Shim. Seal - Coupling Sleeve. Sleeve - Coupling. Ring- Coupling Sleeve Retaining. Seal - Sleeve. Pin - Sleeve Drive. Sleeve. Seal- Sleeve. Spacer- Sleeve. Bearing- Roller. Seal- Valve. Torsion Bar. Seal- Torsion Bar. Spring- Coupling and Fail Safe. Bush- Bearing. Valve. Dowel. Seal - Noise Dampening. Spring - Input Shaft. Washer- Input Shaft.
3-29
3-30
GROUP 3- SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS & lYRES
THE POWER STEERING GEAR
DISASSEMBLY The power steering gear is a precision machine. Therefore it is essential that cleanliness be maintained at all times during disassembly and assembly of the gear, to prevent the ingress of foreign matter which may subsequently affect the performance of the gear. It is not good practice to use rag for cleaning parts before assembly into the gear. Preferably parts should be washed in a petroleum based solvent, just prior to assembly and allowed to drain dry. A smear of power steering oil should be applied to all rubber seals and rubbing surfaces during assembly. Use of Correct Tools - a list and description of service tools is provided in Group 21 and it is essential that these tools be used when dismantling or assembling the gear to ensure that permanent damage is not done to the components. The following service work can only be carried out when the gear has been removed from the vehicle. If a Pitman arm is still fitted to the gear, it must first be removed with the aid of a hydraulic press. See page 3-44. No attempt should be made to prise the pitman arm off by levering against the casting, otherwise damage will result to the. sector shaft seal bore causing subsequent leakage. If the gear still contains oil, this must first be removed by turning the box upside down with the input shaft sloping slightly downwards to position the inlet and outlet at the lowest point of the gear and placing a container under the inlet and 'Outlet to catch the oil. Most of the oil can be removed from the gear by turning the input shaft from lock to lock about 6 to 8 times. Some oil will still remain inside the gear but this will be drained when the top cover is removed as described later. 1. Secure the mbunting bracket to the steering box and clamp in a vice. 2. Loosen and remove the four top cover bolts. 3. Slacken the rack adjusting screw lock nut, and loosen the rack adjusting screw one turn. (This is not essential but greatly assists the removal and subsequent re-a-ssembly of the sector shaft assembly by introducing clearance between rack and sector teeth.) 4. Position the input shaft one eighth of a turn off-centre towards right lock. . 5. Position the gear with the top
cover turned to the bottom and the sector shaft sloping at an angle of about 30° to the vertical then gently tap the end of the sector shaft with a copper mallet whilst holding one hand under the top cover. As the top cover seal slides out from the bore in the steering gear housing, position a container to catch the remaining oil as it drains out. Once the oil has drained the gear should then be positioned with both input and sector shafts horizontal. 6. Pull the top cover off the end of the sector shaft (which will also release a small amount of oil from between the end of the sector shaft and the top cover). 7. The sector shaft assembly can then be withdrawn manually through the top opening of the housing. Take particular . care in this operation not to allow any part of the sector to scratch the top cover bore of the housing as this is a sealing surface for the top cover seal. 8. If a flange is fitted to the input shaft of the gear this must be removed with a puller working against the end of the torsion bar. 9. Using the Tool No. XA3745A unscrew the piston cover ensuring that the spanner is held ftrmly against the cover at all times. This cover may be very difficult to undo, due to the rubber seal clinging to the cover and housing. Two people may be required to undo this cover; one holding the spanner firmly against the cover while the other applies a torque to the handle. An extension tube may even be needed over the handle of the spanner. 10. Push the piston rack out of the bore from the inside of the box. Be careful not to damage the teflon seal on the piston as it passes over the threads at the end of the piston bore. 11. Lift the rack pad out of the rack adjusting screw. 12. Set gear with input shaft and sector Shaft bore horizontal. 13. Slacken the worm bearing adjustment screw lock nut, Tool No. XA- 3707A, undo and remove the bearing adjustment screw using Tool . No. XA- 3537A. 14. Lightly tap the end of the torsion bar to remove the worm, valve and sleeve assembly, catching the seal, bearing race and cage as they come out of the adjusting screw bore. Withdraw the assembly being careful not to damage the teflon seals on the sleeve as the assembly is drawn out of the housing.
15. Using Tool No. XA- 3526B, knock out the sector shaft dust seal, this will expose the circlip which is removed with a pair of circlip pliers. The seal, backing ring and sector shaft seal can now be removed by hand. 16. Using the Tool No. XA3576A, press out the sector shaft bearings. The bearings may be pushed out in either direction. 17. The input shaft bearing is pressed into the bearing spacer and these are removed as an assembly from the housing using Tool No. XA- 3'5 26B. The service tool should be tapped lightly alternately against opposite sides of the bearing spacer. (The bearing spacer is a zinc die casting, easily damaged if forced excessively.) The bearing and its spacer is driven inwards into the housing by the service tool, which is entered through the input shaft seal. Care should be taken not to damage the sealing lip of the seal if it is proposed to reuse the seal. . 18. Once the bearing spacer and bearing are removed, the bearing can be pushed from the bearing spacer using a suitable mandrel. . I 9. The input shaft seal can now be removed using the same tool and tapping the seal inwards into the housing alternatively on opposite sides. 20. Remove the worm bearing race from the housing by lightly tapping with tool entered through the input shaft end of the bore. Shims may be found in the bearing bore when the race is removed, place these to one side for use during assembly. INSPECTION AND OVERHAUL OF COMPONENT ASSEMBLIES
HOUSING Wash housing in a petroleum based solvent and inspect for cracks. Check the seal areas and the piston rack bore for damage or scores. SECTOR SHAFT ASSEMBLY A selective assembly technique is used in the build up of the worm follower and its bearings into the sector shaft, therefore these items are not serviced individually. Little load is concerned, but, in the rare case of wear or damage to the follower or its bearings, a new sector shaft assembly complete must be fitted. Check all bearing, seal and thrust surfaces for wear or damage. Check the worm follower bearings for roughness or end play. Check the worm follower and sector teeth for scoring. Check the preload screw for binding.
PART 3·3- POWER STEERING Caution: Do not over wind tfie preload screw when checking for bind or the eccentric sleeve adjuster may become disengaged from the screw. Check the pitman arm splines and thread, if reusing the sector shaft remove any burrs on the splines with a fine abrasive stone. PISTON RACK Inspect the piston, seal and rack teeth for wear or damage. To replace a faulty seal proceed as follows. 1. Remove the teflon seal by squeezing between the thumb and fmger to raise the seal into a hump at one point. Use a small flat blunt screw driver to slip under this hump and prise seal from its groove. Do not use a sharp instrument, as this may damage the groove in the piston and result in subsequent seal leakage. In general the seal cannot be reused. 2. Replace with a new seal, by feeding the seal in from one side and running a thumb around the outside of the piston, easing the seal carefully into the groove. Push the rack and seal assembly into Tool No. XA3544A, and leave for S-10 minutes. (This is important otherwise seal will not pass through the threaded end of the piston bore when reassembling the piston rack assembly to the gear.) 3. Check that the seal is free to float radially in the piston groove otherwise effective sealing will not be achieved.
3-31
Fig. 44 Piston Rack Assembly in Seal Contractor- Tool No. XA-3544·A.
WORM, VALVE AND SLEEVE ASSEMBLY Inspect the valve, sleeve and teflon . seals, worm track and worm bearings for wear or damage. Check that no free play exists between the sleeve and the worm. The major components of this assembly; namely, worm, valve, sleeve and torsion bar cannot be serviced individually as these are inherently mated at the drilling and fitting of the pin in the "trimming" operation during manufacture (equalising the steering efforts in dght and left turns). A. Sleeve 1. Remove the sleeve complete with its teflon seals, rubber seal and drive pin from the assembly by holding the assembly vertically by the sleeve with the worm uppermost. Strike the torsion bar end of the assembly sharply downwards on to a fum block of wood. The sleeve (still held in the hand) will follow through down the valve, disengaging from the coupling sleeve and slot in the worm. (During this operation a small quan-
Fig. 45 Worm, Valve and Sleeve
tity of oil will be released from inside the coupling sleeve). 2. Inspect the noise dampening seal on the coupling sleeve end of the valve and replace if necessary. This is a rubber seal and may be easily replaced by stretching over the valve. The teflon seals are best removed by cutting diagonally with a sharp knife, but care must be taken to avoid scratching the sides of the grooves otherwise subsequent leakage will result. When fitting new teflon seals Tool No. XA-.3589A must be used, and the centre seal must be fitted first. The seals are more easily fitted if
warmed in hot water immediately prior to pushing over the fitting tool When the teflon seals have been fitted, push the sleeve in to the shrinking tool and leave for 5-10 minutes. The rubber seal is easily removed and replaced by stretching over the end of the sleeve and can be reused provided it shows no sign of deterioration. Care must be taken in refitting the seal (or a new seal) that it is not twisted on its side or inside out, otherwise early failure will result. The drive pin is not replaceable. Replace the sleeve assembly by slip-
J-32
GROUP 3- SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS & TYRES
ping it over the valve, drive pin end flrst, until it is about to enter the coupling sleeve. Care should be taken in this operation not to damage either the bore of the sleeve or the outside diameter of the valve, as a very flne working clearance of .0002 - .0006 inch on diameter is held. Before entering the sleeve into the coupling sleeve flt the wedge Tool No. XA- 3771A behind the coupling sleeve (Fig. 47) between coupling sleeve and bearing cage, to ensure that the coupling sleeve is held furnly against its retaining ring. Check that the fail safe and coupling spring is concentric in the bore of the worm, with the leg of the spring in the drive slot and the spring rotated clockwise (as viewed) to position the leg against the side of the slot (Fig. 48) . . Line up the drive pin of the sleeve with the gap between the leg of the spring and the opposite side of the slot and "feel" the sleeve into the coupling sleeve until the pin engages with the slot. To fully engage the sleeve, the worm, valve and sleeve assembly should be held vertically with worm to the bottom and struck sharply downwards onto a fum block of wood, ensuring that the sleeve is being held at the instant of impact to drive it fully home against the end of the worm. It is important that the pin is fumly held in the drive slot ofthe worm by the spring 2 s this spring ensures that no slack can develop between the worm and sleeve, otherwise the steering gear will not function smoothly. After assembly, freedom from slack in this coupling should be confumed by lightly gripping the worm in a copper-jawed vice and feeling the sleeve for rotational slack in either direction. B. Valve, Coupling Sleeve and Ball Cage Assembly Further dis-assembly of the worm valve and sleeve assembly necessitates un-pinning of the valve. Before unpinning the valve, fust remove the sleeve as described above and mark the relative position of valve and torsion bar to prevent any possibility of the valve being refltted 1800 out of position. 1. Support the end of the valve over an opening slightly larger than the pin diameter (5/32") and using a pin punch drive the pin completely out of valve and torsion bar. 2. Pull the valve off over the torsion bar. The tapered Delrin splitbush, flat washer and conical spring will now be loose on the torsion bar
Fig. 46 Sleeve in Contractor Tool No. XA-3589-8
Fig. 47 Tool No. XA-3771-A in Place on Worm
Fig. 48
Fail Safe & Coupling Spring Location
PART 3-3- POWER STEERING and may be removed by hand. Remove any burr around the hole in the torsion bar at this time to minimise damage during assembly. 3. The fail safe and coupling spring can be removed if required at this stage. Pay particular attention to the way in which the spring is fitted, a~ if fitted in reverse, the sleeve will be wrongly positioned when reassembled which will cause a malfunction of the gear. 4. To remove the coupling sleeve turn the retaining ring until one end appears in the slot in the end of the worm. Hook this end of the ring and disengage it from its groove in the worm. Withdraw the coupling sleeve from the end of the worm, which then allows removal of the bearing cage.
5. The coupling sleeve seal can now be removed if required. 6. No further disassembly is possible as the torsion bar is pressed into the worm and cannot be removed. 7. To replace the coupling sleeve seal stretch the old seal out of the groove in the end of the worm and fit a new seal being careful to avoid twisting the seal on its side or inside out. 8. To reassemble the worm and valve assembly replace the ball cage, coupling sleeve and retaining ring in that order. The seal on the end of the worm should be smeared with a little power steering fluid to assist the fitment of the coupling sleeve and after fitment, the gap in the retaining ring should be turned to coincide with the slot in the end of the worm. 9. Examine the seal on the end of the torsion bar and replace it if it shows any signs of deterioration or cutting due to disassembly. Examine the noise dampenin:S seal on the end of the valve and replace if necessary. Position the fail safe and coupling spring on the valve exactly as it was before removal. Position the conical spring over the torsion bar with the large end in the bore of the worm. Place the split bush over the torsion bar with the larger diameter toward the worm. Pass the valve over the torsion bar and locate the bush in the end of the valve. Align the marks made prior to removal on the valve and torsion bar and push the valve fully home into the lost-motion splines of the worm. If the angular position is correct, the master spline on the end of the valve will line up with the slot on the end of the worm.
The pin can now be refitted by pressing in, between the jaws of a vice. Fitting a New Worm, Valve and Sleeve Assembly. If a new worm, valve and sleeve assembly is to be fitted, it will be necessary to adjust the axial position of the assembly in the housing to ensure that the centre point of the worm coincides with the on centre position of the gear. This position of the worm valve and sleeve assembly in the housing is adjustable by the number of shims fitted behind the bearing race in the housing assembly. However, as the position of the worm valve and sleeve assembly is varied, so the distance the bearing spacer is pushed into the housing must be varied to maintain a clearance of .010 inch between the end of the sleeve and bearing spacer. The procedure is as follows:1. Remove the sleeve from the new worm, valve and sleeve assembly as described above. 2. Remove the bearing race from the housing complete with any shims which may be fitted and refit the bearing race without any shims using the appropriate service tools. 3. Enter the worm and valve assembly into the housing followed by the cage assembly, race and bearing adjusting screw. Tighten the bearing adjusting screw sufficiently to remove any slack (preload is not necessary at this stage). 4. Refit the sector shaft assembly and top cover (the seal from the top cover may be removed to assist this assembly). 5. Fit the pitman arm and nut to the end of the sector shaft and tighten the nut sufficiently to eliminate any slack in the splines.
3-33 6. Ensure that the gear can be rotated from lock to lock, backing off any preload on the worm follower if necessary, then apply preload to the worm follower until slack is just eliminated at one point near the on centre position {this may not necessarily be exactly on centre at this stage). 7. Measure the actual slack at 6" radius on the pitman arm with the gear positioned alternatively one turn (of the input shaft) to the left and one turn to the right from the 'on centre' position. 8. The clearance at the left turn should be greater than that at the right turn. Divide the difference between these actual readings by 5 to obtain the correct thickness of shim stack to be fitted. 9. Remove the sector shaft assembly and worm and valve assembly and inner race from the housing. Fit the number of shims {as determined above) behind the inner bearing race and reassemble the worm and valve assembly and sector shaft assembly and repeat the procedure above. 10. If the difference in slack is less than .020 inch then the shim stack is acceptable. If the left hand slack is greater than the right slack by more than this amount, divide the difference by 5 and add this amount of additional shims. If the right hand slack is greater than the left hand by more than .020 inch divide the difference by 5 and remove this thickness of shims from the stack. 11. Confmn again that the difference in slacks are within .020 inch.
Fig. 49
Checking Steering Gear Slack
3-34
GROUP 3- SUSPENSION. STEERING. WHEELS & lYRES
12. Remove the sector shaft assembly and worm and valve assembly. 13. Refit the sleeve to the worm and valve assembly and position ·the .010 service shim over the valve against the end face of the sleeve. 14. Enter the worm, valve and sleeve assembly complete with service shim into the housing, fit the bearing cage assembly and race and tighten the bearing adjusting screw to force the complete assembly against the bearing spacer. This will ensure that the bearing spacer is pushed further into its bore if the stack up length of the worm valve and sleeve assembly is greater than its predecessor. 15. The worm valve and sleeve assembly should then be withdrawn and the service shim removed from the valve. (Note: If the stack up of new worm valve and sleeve assembly is less than its predecessor, additional clearance will exist between the sleeve and the bearing spacer, this however will not be detrimental.) Inlet Port Seat and Outlet Tube 1. The inlet port seat and outlet tube can both be removed if required by pulling out of the housing. 2. New components are fitted using the Tool No. XA- 374309A for the inlet port seat and Tool No. XA-3713A for the outlet tube. Rack Pad Adjusting Screw and Seal 1. The rack pa,d adjusting screw should only be removed when the gear is stripped, to prevent any possibility of the rack pad being dislodged within the assembled gear. 2. The seal however can be replaced on an assembled gear, by removing the locknut and undoing the screw one to two turns to allow the seal to be removed from the groove in the screw. 3. Fit the new seal and replace the locknut, then reset preloads. RE-ASSEMBLY 1. Replace the worm bearing race in the housing together with the shims removed (if any) or the predetermined number of shims if a new worm, valve and sleeve assembly i~ to be fitted (see page 3-33). Use the sleeve Tool No. XA- -3589-B to seat the bearing in the housing. 2. Replace the sector shaft bearings. To fit a new outer (narrow) bearing first fit the spacing washer Tool No. XA- 3576A to the assembly mandrel Tool No. XA- 3576A followed by the spacer sleeve checking that the spigot on the spacing washer
Fig. 50 Installing Sector Shaft Bearing
Fig. 51 Installing Input Shaft Seal is adjacent to the sleeve. Next fit the bearing onto the mandrel and insert assembly through the top aperture of the housing. Start the bearing into the bore and fit the guide Tool No. XA- 3576-A2 for the mandrel to the top aperture of the housing. Press the bearing fully home under a rack or hydraulic press. Withdraw the mandrel · from the bearing, remove the guide from the top aperture· and remove the bearing spacer washer and sleeve. To fit a new inner (wide) bearing, first fit the spacing washer to the mandrel followed by the bearing. Ensure that the spigot on the spacing washer is adjacent to the bearing (this will ensure that the bearing is slightly
below the thrust face inside the housing when pushed home). Press the bearing fully home. Withdraw the mandrel from the bearing.. remove the guide from the top aperture and remove the spacer washer. Reassembly of the sector shaft seal, backing ring, circlip and dust seat is carried out after refitment of the sector shaft. 3. Fit a new input shaft seal to the Tool No. XA- 3525A. Enter the mandrel through the bearing adjusting screw bore and knock the seal in, checking first that the seal is fitted with the pressure sealing lip towards the inside of the housing and the dust sealing lip to the outside. The seal is best fitted with the in·
PART 3-3- POWER STEERING put shaft bore of the housing posi· tioned horizontally, then it can be easily seen when the seal is fully in against the retaining shoulder of the bore. It shorlld be noted that this shoulder is very small and an excessive assembly load could push the seal right through the bore making the seal unusable. Under no circumstances can a seal be fitted by pushing it straight into its bore from the input shaft end. 4. To replace the input shaft bearing, first press the bearing into the bearing spacer ensuring that it is pushed hard up to the shoulder in the bearing spacer bore. It is preferable to use a new bearing spacer when fitting a new bearing as a reused spacer often fails to provide any interference fit between the bearing and/or the housing. If a loose fit does result, a new bearing spacer must be used. S. Fit the bearing and spacer as· sembly into the housing using the same service mandrel as used for the seal, but only push the assembly to within about one tenth of an inch from the seal. This can be observed by parUy withdrawing the mandrel and looking in through the input . shaft seal. 6. The final positioning of the bearing spacer is carried out by plac· ing the .010 inch service shim at the end of the sleeve on the worm valve and sleeve assembly and entering the worm valve and sleeve assembly into the housing. Fit the ball cage, race and bearing adjusting screw and tighten the bearing adjusting screw to push the assembly fully home.
7. Remove the worm, valve and sleeve assembly and discard the ser· vice shims. The bearing spacer will now be correctly positioned to pro· vide a working clearance for the sleeve. 8. The function of the bearing spacer is to prevent any possibility of the sleeve becoming disengaged from the worm and as such it constitutes an important safety feature of the gear. 9. As an additional safety feature, the bearing spacer has a flange on its outside diameter to limit the maxi· mum distance it can be pushed into the housing, in the event of a failure of the high pressure seal in the coupling sleeve. It is important that the above procedure is adhered to and no short cuts taken. If in doubt as to the working clearance between spacer and sleeve, this can be checked by placing a small piece of plasticine on the end of the sleeve, pushing the worm valve and sleeve assembly fully into place and immediately with· drawing it. The plasticine will be flattened to the thickness of the clearance existing. 10. Wrap one layer of plastic insulating tape around the valve splines to prevent damage to the valve seal when the worm, valve and sleeve assembly is being fitted. 11. Position the steering gear housing with the input shaft and sector shaft bores horizontal. 12. Enter the worm valve and sleeve assembly in through the bearing adjusting screw bore and feed the end of the valve through the valve seal
fig. 52 Bearing Spacer Shim in Place on Valve
3-35
being careful not to turn the seal inside out. Push the assembly home with the thumbs - do not hammer under any circumstances. 13. Turn the steering gear so that the input shaft is vertical and the bore for the bearing adjusting screw upper· most. 14. Drop the bearing cage in posi· tion on the worm track. . 15. Enter the bearing race into the bearing race bore and push carefully home, keeping the race square as it is pushed down the bore. Only light tapping should be required; if efforts become high remove the bearing race again by tapping out the worm valve and sleeve assembly and start again. N.B. It is advisable to break the sharp edge on the bearing with a fine stone · to avoid damage to the adjusting screw bore during fitting. 16. With the bearing race fully home, place the rubber seal on the race and fit the bearing adjusting screw. Tighten the adjusting screw sufficiently to remove end float. (Pre· load is not necessary at this stage.) 17. Set the gear with the input shaft and sector shaft bores horizontal. 18. Position the rack pad in the rack adjusting screw. 19. Carefully enter the piston rack assembly into the bore of the housing, being careful not to allow the rack to touch the bore and support the end of the rack from inside the housing, whilst easing the teflon seal past the threads at the end of the bore. The piston may be cocked slightly to assist in passing the teflon seal past thre~rl~ . • 0. Position the rack in its mid p<;snlon ready for assembly of the sector shaft. 21. Refit the piston cover ensuring that the rubber seal is not damaged. If the seal is damaged it must be replaced with a new seal. Using the Tool No. XA-374SA tighten the piston cover to 2040 ft. lbs torque, ensuring that the spanner is pushed firmly against the cover at all times. (Refitting of this cover may be left until fitting of the sector shaft is completed if required.) · 22. Position the steering gear assembly so that the input shaft and sector shaft bores are horizontal. 23. Check that the rack pad is cor· rectly positioned in the rack adjusting screw, and position the piston rack in its mean position; i.e. with the centre tooth gap immediately opposite the sector shaft bearing bush. (i.e., in line with the rack pad.)
3-36
GROUP 3- SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS & lYRES SETTING PRELOADS ON THE STEERING GEAR ASSEMBLY
Fig. 53. Centre Tooth Gap of Rack in Line with Sector Shaft Bush 24. If the original sector shaft seal is still in position it is in order to assemble the sector shaft directly through the seal, provided the splines are smoothed to remove sharp edges or covered with plastic tape. If however, a new sector shaft seal is to be fitted, it is advisable to fit the new seal after the sector shaft has been fitted, using plastic tape to mask the sector spline and push the seal home. 25. Enter the sector shaft assembly carefully through the top cover aperture into the sector shaft bearing. Keep the rack parallel to the bottom of the box and roll it slightly to open the mesh at entry. It is essential to see that the centre tooth of the sector shaft is aligned with the tooth gap in the rack as the sector shaft is pushed in. Use a torch if necessary. At the same time as the rack and sector teeth are engaging, the input shaft will need to be turned to align the groove in the worm with the follower on the sector shaft assembly. The sector shaft assembly must never be hammered in during this operation. If difficulty is encountered, slacken the rack adjusting screw as described under "Preload Adjustments'? 26. Position the gear slightly off centre to ensure the sector shaft is not displaced by any preload between the follower and worm. Then fit the top cover over the sector shaft journal and enter it into the steering gear housing. A new seal should be fitted if the old seal shows any sign of fretting or if it has lost its sharp corners. Care should be taken as the seal is entering the aperture to ensure it is not pinched. Once entered, the top cover may be lightly tapped
home. A smear of power steering oil on the seal will greatly assist the fitment of the top cover. 27. Fit the four screws securing the top cover but do not tighten. 28. Remove the recessed head plug from the top cover and position the gear on centre. Force the top cover back against the housing aperture by applying a temporary follower preload of 8-12 inch ounces (to avoid subsequent loss of preload in service due to shifting of the cover) and with the gear still op. centre, tighten the four top cover bolts to 30 ft. lbs torque. The recessed head plug will be replaced after preload adjustment. (Refer instructions for setting preloads.) · 29. With the sector shaft splines covered with one layer of plastic tape fit the sector shaft seal, with the lips towards the housing, Fit the backing ring with its rounded side towards the seal and its flat side towards the circlip. (This is important to ensure that the circlip is loaded close to the groove in the housing otherwise it will fatigue in service. The rounding of one side of the backing ring is a legacy of the blanking operation during its . manufacture). Finally, fit the circlip then the dust seal using the special service tool. 30. Install the flexible coupling to the input shaft, making sure to line up tpe master spline, the lock plate and nut. Torque to specification. 31 . Set all preloads as described on following pages.
General During production of the steering gear assembly preloads are set slightly higher than in service to allow for initial 'bed-in' of mating components. These higher preload figures are given below in brackets and should only be used where new components are being fitted to the steering gear. Before setting preloads, the gear should be substantially drained qf power steering fluid, otherwise the readings obtained will be too high because of the pumping action of the piston moving oil from one end of the cylinder to the other. Most consistent results are obtained if the box is warm. In order to establish the correct preloads the sequence of preload· settings following should be strictly adhered to as each reading obtained is a cumulative reading of the preloads set before. The gear must be removed from the vehicle to set preloads and should preferably be mounted in the special service ftxture in a vice with the input and sector shafts horizontal. First, undo and remove the plug from the top cover. Position the gear roughly 'on centre'. (The gear is 'on centre' when it is positioned midway between full left and right lock; in this position the blocked splines on the sector shaft lie parallel and at right angles to the plane of the mounting feet and the flat on the input shaft is in line with the inlet and outlet ports.) The socket head of the adjusting screw for the worm follower will now be visible through the top cover plug hole. ·Turn this screw 2 to 3 turns anti-clockwise to remove any preload from the worm follower, at the same time keeping pressure on the Allen key to hold the adjusting screw head against the end of the sector. Loosen the lock nut on the bearing adjusting screw and undo the bearing adjusting screw to 1 turn to remove any preload from the worm bearings. Loosen the rack adjusting screw locknut and undo the rack adjusting, screw to 1 turn. This will remove any preload between the rack and the sector teeth. The gear is now ready for setting the preloads, which are measured at the input shaft using a torque meter (having a range 0 to 20 inch pounds in both clockwise and anti-clockwise direction). 1. Input Seal Friction Turn the input shaft of the steering gear to either left or right lock. If the input shaft is oscillated · 4 or 5° in
*
*
3-37
PART 3-3- POWER STEERING
Fig. 54 Preload Adjusting Points
either direction at the locks, a short interval of slack will be observed where the worm follower and rack and sector teeth are exhibiting backlash. Note the maximum torque reading in this slack interval. This should be approximately ~ to 1 inch pound. 2. Worm Bearing Preload Whilst oscillating the input shaft in this same slack interval, the bearing adjusting screw should be tightened until an increase in torque is noticed. The adjusting screw should be locked to achieve an increase over the input seal friction of 1 to 2 inch pounds (for new parts 2 to 3 inch pounds). Additionally, note the actual torque reading.
3. Gar Drag
*
input shaft over a greater angle (be~ to turn off centre. Oscillate the input shaft over a greater angle between the limits ~ to turn off centre) and observe the maximum torque reading. It will be noticed that this reading is slightly higher than the previous reading by about ~inch pound (for a new gear 1 to 1~ inch pounds). This additional torque is due to frictional drag between worm and follower, rack and sector teeth, the piston seal in the housing bore and the sector shaft seal. Be careful not to measure this torque any closer to centre than a ~ turn, otherwise the results will be influen-
*
Fig. 55 Checking Preloads - Typical
ced ~y the changing ratio of the worm. It may also be observed that a slightly higher reading is produced when turning the gear left. This is due to the 10° inclination of the piston when the gear is set horizontal. The piston is pushed up the inclination on a left turn and down the inclination on a right turn. 4. Worm Follower Preload Bring the gear to the on centre position which will bring the worm follower adjusting screw accessible through the hole in the top cover. Turn the adjusting screw a % turn at a time until an increase in torque reading is noted when oscillating the input shaft 5° either side of centre. Ensure that the Allen key is withdrawn from the adjusting screw during oscillation of the input shaft, otherwise damage may result to the threads for the top cover !lug. The preload should be adjuste until an increase of 3 to 4 inch pounds is achieved over the last actual reading. (For new components 6 to 7 inch pounds.) Note the actual reading. Replace the plug in the top cover and tighten to 7-9 foot pound torque.
5. Rack and Sector Tooth Preload With the gear on centre oscillate the input shaft 5 degrees either side of centre and sj.owly turn the rack adjusting screw clockwise until an
increase in preload is observed. When an increase of 3 to 4 inch pounds (for new components 6 to 1 inch pounds) is observed, hold the rack adjusting screw with an Allen key and tighten the rack adjusting screw locknut. This adjustment is very sensitive and some trial and error will be required to achieve the correct preload after the locknut is tightened. The locknut should be tightened to 30 foot pounds torque.
6. Final Check As a fmal check, turn the box from lock to lock to ensure that there are no 'hang-ups'. Sensible preload should occur over a broad angle of approximately % turn either side of centre, with the highest preload occurring through centre. Refitment of Gear to Vehicle The gear must always be refitted to the vehicle so that the gear is 'on centre' when the vehicle is tracking straight ahead. This is important as it ensures that the peak in the ratio curve of the gear occurs when driving straight ahead and the ratio change is then symmetrical in right and left turns. Hence first 'centre' the steering wheel then make all tracking corrections by adjustment of the steering side rods only.
"
3-38
PART 3·4
STEERING COLUMNS AND LINKAGE
Section 1 Description ... •.. •.. ... ... ... ... ... . .. 2 In-car Adjustments ..• ..• ... ... ... ... . .. 3 Steering Column Removal & Replacement
D
Page 3-38 3-39 ..• 3-40
Section 4 Major Repair Operations ... .•. ... S Ignition Lock Replacement... .•• ... 6 Steering Linkage Repair... .. : ..• : ... 7 Pitman Arm Replacement Manual and Power Steering r- ...
•.. ..• ... ... - ... •.. ...... .,.
Page 3-41 3-41 ... 3-43
... ... ... ... .., 3-44
DESCRIPTION
The steering column which in· eludes a combination steering/gear shift/ignition lock is of the collapsible type to lessen the possibility of injury to the driver of the vehicle, should be become involved in an accident. nie lower end of the steering column tube at the bellows area may collapse up to approximately eight (8) inches upon a hard impact. The shift tube and steering shaft are provided with spring clips which will shear and allow them to collapse upon impact. The steering column upper mounting brackets are provided with breakaway retainers which allow the column to break free under impact. Once the steering column has been collapsed, a complete new column must be installed with new brackets. The steering/gear shift/ignition lock is situated to the right of the steering column. The main body of the lock is bolted to the steering column outer tube and is covered by a shroud which contains the various · key positions marked on· the mask surrounding the barrel. To engage the steering/gear shift lock on column shift vehicles the gear
FIG. 56 -Slots in tube
FIG. 57 -Manual Trans column
shift must be positioned in park. (Automatic) or Reverse (Manual). In the locked position the locking plunger protrudes through a slot in· the gear shift tube and into a groove
in the steering shaft locking sleeve.
(See Fig. 56.) The steering/gear shift/ignition lock must be in the locked position before the key can be removed.
PART 3-4-
EJ IN-CAR
STEERING COLUMN & LINKAGE
ADJUSTMENTS
STEERING WHEEL REPLACEMENT 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 2. Working from the underside of the steering wheel spoke, remove the crash pad attaching screws. Lift the crash pad from the wheel. Remove the hom ring by turning it counterclockwise. 3. Remove the steering wheel nut and then remove the wheel using a tool made up to the dimensions in Fig. 59, or using Litchfield tool No E201 · · Do not use a knock off type steering wheel puller or strike the end of the steering shaft with a hammer. Striking the puller or shaft will damage the collapsible column or bearing.
2.. Remov~ the steering wheel as outlmed preVIously. 3. Rem~v~ the turn indicator lever and WU'mg cover. ~· Remove. the turn in?icator s~tch attaching screws. Lift ~e switch over the end of the steermg shaft and place it to one si~e. S. Remove the . snap rmg from the top of the steermg shaft. 6. . Loosen the two ~es-tosteet:mg column tube attaching bolts to disen~ge them from the tube. . 7. Ruse the flange upward (if necessary, tap the steermg shaft lightly with a plastic hammer to free the bearing and flange from the shaft). 8. Remove the bearing and insulator from the flange. INSTALLATION 1. Install flange bolts (square head) in flange if they were removed. Tum the nuts onto the bolts one complete turn only. 2. Position the flange onto the steering column tube. 3. Engage the two flange bolt heads with the square holes in the column tube. then tighten the two attaching nuts to specification. 4. Position the bearing and insulator on the shaft. Work it down onto the shaft as far as possible, then place R piece of f ID x 21 inch pipe over the end of the shaft and install the steering wheel attaching nut (Fig. 61). S. Tighten the nut until the bearing is seated in the flange, then re-
4. Transfer all serviceable parts to the new steering wheel. S. Position the steering wheel on the shaft so that the alignment mark on the hub of the wheel is adjacent to · the one on the shaft. Install a new locknut and torque it to specifications. 8. Install the hom ring and crash pad. STEERING COLUMN UPPER BEARING REPLACEMENT REMOVAL 1. Disconnect the hom and tum indicator wires at the connector.
r· 11-e,
3-39
move the nut and pipe from the shaft. 8. Position the turn signal switch on the flange, install the three attaching screws and refit the wiring cover. 7. Install the steering wheel as outlined previously. STEERING COLUMN ALIGNMENT A condition of high shift or steering effort may be experienced caused by improper alignment of the energy absorbing steering column. The following procedure outlines the steps necessary to correctly re~ align the column. It is recommended that before attempting realignment, the toe plate (column retainer) to dash panel fastener holes be inspected for a binding or misalignment condition. If the condition described above could be attributed to this area, file or ream the toe plate holes for greater clearance. 1. Check the clearance between
--.;.:.--tf
•r
2j" .......
I
FIG. 60- Steering Wheel Removal NUT
11/32" ~lA.
f"
U.N.F. NUT WELDED TO PLATE
~--11"--.,.f
USE
FIG. 59
2 OFF 5/16"- 24 U.N.F. 4" L.G. I OFF j" U.N.F. BOLT & NUT
STEERING WHEEL PULLER DIMENSIONS
G 1497 · A
FIG. 61 - Installing Upper Bearing
3-40
GROUP 1- SUSPENSION. STEERING. WHEELS & JYRES
the steering shaft and the shift tube at the lower end of the column. The specified minimum clearance is 0. 12 inches. 2. Loosen the toe plate (column retainer) to dash panel bolts and inspect for binding or misalignment. If the conditions described above can be attributed to this area, file or ream the toe plate holes for greater clearance.
EJ STEERING
3. Loosen the two bolts steering column support bracket to pedal bracket. 4. Loosen the two bolts steering column clamp to steering column bracket assembly. 5. Check the steering shaft to shift tube clearance and set to specification. 6. Tighten the toe plate to dash panel bolts to specification (4-6
lbs. ft). 7. Tighten the steering column clamp to support bracket bolts to specification (10 to 20 lbs. ft).
8. Tighten the two steering support brackets to ped41 bracket nuts to specification (28-42 lbs. ft). 9. Recheck to ensure the steering shaft to shift tube clearance has not altered.
COLUMN REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery cable from the negative post. 2. Disconnect the turn signal switch wires at the connector. 3. Disconnect the ignition switch wires at the connector. 4. Disconnect the transmission control rod(s) from the lever(s) at the lower end of the column. 5. Remove the two nuts steering shaft flange to flexible coupling. 6. Remove the nuts and bolts that secure the column retainer and seal at the toe plate. 7. Disconnect the nuts that secure the column upper and lower brackets to the brake pedal suooort bracket and the dash panel. (Fig. 62).
8. Lift the column from the vehicle. Transfer parts to the new column as required, leaving the column clamp nuts fingertight.
of the column. 5. Tighten the toe plate to dash panel bolts to specification. 6. Tighten the column clamp to upper support bracket nuts to specification. 7. Remove the fs-w dia. rod from the coupling. 8. Connect the transmission control rod(s) to the lever(s) at the lower end of the column and adjust. 9. Connect the turn signal switch wires. 10. Connect the ignition switch wires. 11. Connect the battery cable. 12. Check the operation of the switches.
INSTALLATION
1. Position the steering column in the vehicle, engaging the flexible coupling bolts in the holes of the steering shaft flange. 2. Insert a fa- w dia. rod between the fabric ring and the steering shaft flange. 3. Install but do not tighten the nuts that secure the column upper and lower brackets to the brake pedal support bracket and the dash panel. · 4. Check the steering shaft to shift tube clearance at the lower end
I
/
\.·"------
· -'
'-~
/ -~ -
./
-111-11 .. ,.
FIG. 62 -Installation Steering Column
~·-·- "'
PART 3-4- STEERING COLUMN
rJ
& LINKAGE
3-41
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS
STEERING SHAn REPLACEMENT REMOVAL
t. Remove the column from the vehicle. 2. Remove the steering wheel. 3. Remove the turn indicator switch and lever. 4. Remove the steering shaft upper bearing retaining circlip. S. Remove the steering shaft through the lower end of the column (Fig. 62). INSTALLATION 1. Assemble the steering shaft to the column. 2. Fit the upper bearing retaining circlip. 3. Assemble the turn indicator switch and lever to the hub. 4. Assemble the steering wheel and re-install the column into the vehicle.
SHIFT TUIE REPLACEMENT REMOVAL 1. Remove the steering column from the vehicle and remove the steering wheel. 2. Remove the gear selector lever retaining pin and remove the lever. 3. Remove the turn indicator lever. 4. Remove the three turn indicator switch retaining screws, lift the switch over the shaft and place it to one side. S. Remove the steering shaft upper bearing retaining circlip and remove the steering shaft. 6. On automatic and floor-shift vehicles remove the bolt attaching the shift collar to the shift tube.
7. On manual transmission vehicles remove the three attaching screws column to lower bearing. 8. Remove the shift tube from the outer column tube (Fig. 62). On automatic column shift and floorshift vehicles the shift tube lower nylon bushing must be removed with the tube, to achieve this, press the three nylon tabs into the holes in the column, ease· the bushing down the tube so that the tabs clear the holes. Withdraw the tube and bush through the bottom of the column tube. t. On manual transmission vehicles, the lower shift tube bearing may be removed before or after removing the shift tube from the column. NOTE: To remove shift tube upper bearing, ignition lock must be removed first. Bearing can then be removed from lower end of column.
INSTALLATION
1. Assemble upper shift tube bearing in the column with the chamfered edge lowermost and install the ignition lock. 2. Assemble the lower bearing and shift levers (manual shift) and torque the retaining screws to specification. 3. Assemble the shift lever to the collar using a new drive pin. 4. Assemble the steering shaft to the column and fit a new upper bearing retaining circlip. 5. Assemble the turn indicator switch and lever to the hub, and torque the screws to specification. 1. Refit the steering wheel. 7. Re-assemble the column to the vehicle. 8. Align the column to the steering gear and adjust the shift linkage as required.
IGNITION LOCK REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL l. Remove the column from the vehicle and remove steering wheel. 2. Remove the steering lock shroud and shift tube. 3. Cut slots in the steering lock attaching bolts with a hacksaw and remove bolts with a screw driver or hammer and centre punch. 4. Rotate the lock around the column tube until one end of the base clears the aperture, lift the lock from the column. INSTALLATION 1. Place the steering/ignition lock assembly into the recessed bush in the steering column. 2. Engage new shear head bolts and tighten them evenly until the heads shear off. 3. Assemble the shroud to the column and install shift tube. 4. Assemble the column to the vehicle. LOCK BARREL REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL 1. Remove the lock shroud lower attaching screw from beneath the shroud. 2. Turn the ignition key to the off or on position. 3. Push a .060" dia pin into the lock through the shroud lower mounting hole to raise the barrel locking pin and remove the barrel. INSTALLATION 1. Assemble the barrel into the lock and raise the barrel locking pin by turning the key to the start position. 2. Assemble the shroud lower attaching screw.
3-42
GROUP
3-
SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS & lYRES
FIG . 63 -Steering Linkage- Fairlane, Falcon
PART 3-4- STEERING COLUMN & LINKAGE
IJ
3-43
STEERING LINKAGE REPAIR
The steenng linkage (Fig. 63) consists of the Pitman arm, the Pitman armto-idler arm (centre link), the idler arm and bracket assembly and the spindle connecting sleeve and end assemblies (tie rods). Do not attempt to straighten bent linkage; use new parts. HOISTING INSTRUCTIONS Damage to suspension and/or steering linkage components may · occur if care is not exercised when positioning the hoist adapters of 2 post hoists prior to lifting the vehicle. If a 2 post hoist is used to lift the vehicle, place the adapters under the front suspension lower arms. Do not allow the adapters to contact the steering linkage. SPINDLE CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLY (INNER AND OUTER ENDS} REPLACEMENT
FAIRLANE, FALCON The spindle connecting rod ends, which are ~eaded into the adjusting sleeves, have non-adjustable, ball studs. These parts cannot be greased or serviced. A rod end assembly should be replaced when excessive looseness at the ball stud is noticed. l. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the worn rod end ball stud. 2. Disconnect the end from the spindle ann or centre link as shown in Figs. 63 and 65 3. Loosen the connecting rod sleeve clamp bolts, and count the number of turns needed to remove the rod end from the sleeve. Discard all rod end parts that were removed from the sleeve. All new parts . should be used when a spindle connecting rod end is replaced. 4. Thread a new rod end into the sleeve, but do not tighten the sleeve clamp bolts at thi~ time. 5. Insert the stud in the part from which the old one was removed, and install the stud nut. Torque the nut to specification and install the cotter pin. 6. Check and, if necessary, adjust toe-in (Page 3-5). After toe-in is checked and adjusted, loosen the clamps from the sleeve, oil the sleeve, clamps and bolts and torque the nuts to specification. The tie rod sleeve clamp-; must be installed as shown in Fig. 63 to prevent interference with the side rail. CENTRE LINK REPLACEMENT The centre link connecting the Pitman arm and the idler arm is non-
adjustable and is provided with tapered holes to accommodate the ball studs (Fig. 63 ). The link should be replaced when damaged or worn at the ball studs or if excessive looseness is noticed in either ball stud socket. THREAD PROTECTOR
FIG. 64- Disconnecting Steering Linkage Ball Stud -Typical REMOVAL
l. Raise the vehicle on a hoist and position safety stands. 2. Remove- the cotter pins and nuts that attach both inner connecting rod ends to the centre link (Fig .•63 ). 3. Disconnect the inner connecting rod ends from the centre link (Fig.64 ). 4. Remove the cotter pin and nut attaching the idler arm to the centre link. Disconnect the idler arm from the centre link. 5. Remove the cotter pin and nut attaching the Pitman arm to the centre link. Disconnect the Pitman arm from the centre link and remove the centre link. INSTALLATION l. Replace the rubber seals on the spindle connecting rod ends, if required. 2. Position the centre link to the Pitman arm and idler arm and install the attaching nuts loosely. Place the idler arm and the front wheels in the straight ahead position to insure keeping the steering wheel aligned and to prevent bushing damage after the attaching nuts have been torqued. Ensure that the seal is properly installed on the centre link. Torque the nuts to the low end of the specification. Continue to 6ghten each nut until the slots in the nut align with the hole in the stud. Then install a new cotter pin.
3. Position the spindle connecting rod ends to the centre link and install the attaching nuts. Torque the nuts to the low end of the specification. Continue to tighten each nut until the slots in the nut align with the hole in the stud. Then, install a new cotter pin. 4. Remove the safety stands, lower the vehicle, check and adjust toe-in to specification (Part 3-7). STEERING IDLER ARM AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT REMOVAL lf the idler arm bushings are wom the complete idler arm assembly must be replaced. If the socket at the idler bracket is excessively loose, replace the complete assembly. l. Remove the cotter pin and nut attaching the steering centre link at the idler arm (Fig 63 ). 2. Disconnect the centre link from the idler arm. 3. Remove the two bolts that attach the idler arm and bracket assembly to the frame. INSTALLATION l. Secure the new idler arm and bracket assembly to the frame with the two attaching bolts nuts and washers(as shown in Fig. 63) 2. Place the idler arm and the front wheels in the straight ahead position to ensure keeping the steermg wheel aligned and to prevent bushing damage after the attaching nut has been torqued. Insert the centre link stud through the hole in the end of the idler arm and install the nut and washer. 3. Torque the idler arm rod nut to specification and install a new cotter pin.
PITMAN ARM REPLACEMENT-MANUAL ONLY REMOVAL 1. Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut that attaches the steering centre link to the Pitman arm. Remove the castellated nut. 2. Disconnect the steering centre link from the Pitman arm. 3. Remove the Pitman arm attaching nut and lock washer. 4. Remove the steering gear from the vehicle (see page 3-46). 5. Remove the sector shaft cover (see page 3-46) and drain oil. 6. Remove Pitman arm by following procedures outlined on page 3-44
3-44
GROUP 3- SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS & lYRES
under Pitman arm removal - power steering.
PITMAN ARM REPLACEMENT POWER STEERING ONLY.
INSTALLATION- MANUAL
NOTE - Pitman arm removal is accomplished with steering gear assembly removed from the car. For removal procedures, see Page 346.
1. For sector shaft installation procedures and adjustment, refer page 347 and specifications. 2. For steering gear installation procedure- refer page 346. 3. With the front wheels in the straight ahead position, place the Pitman arm on the sector shaft mak· ing sure it is pointing forward. 4. Install the nut and lock washer. Torque the nut to specification. 5. Connect the steering centre link to the Pitman arm, fit the nut and torque to specification. Fit a new cotter pin and fill steering gear with specified oil.
REMOVAL
1. Remove pitman arm securing nut from sector shaft. 2. Undo the four bolts securing the sector shaft cover and remove cover - drain oil. 3. Install steering gear assembly in the press with the sector shaft splined end upper most. 4. The sector (shaft will fall) downwards until the Pitman~ arm is resting against the steering gear casing.
5. Takirig care not to damage the threaded end of the sector shaft, press the sector shaft through the casing and remove the pitman arm. NOTE - Ensure that the sector shaft does not drop out of the casing otherwise damage to the shaft could occur. INSTALLATION STEERING
POWER
1. For sector shaft installation refer to procedures outlined in pages 3-34 to 3-36. 2. For pre-load setting procedures refer pages 3-36 to 3-37. 3. For pre-load and torque figures refer specifications. 4. For steering gear and Pitman arm installation procedures refer page
346.
.
5. Fill steering gear with specified oil.
3-45
PART
3·5 D
STEERING GEAR
Section 1 Description .... .. .. .... ...... . ...... .... .. .. .. .. ...... .. .. .. 2 In-Car Adjustments & Repairs ...... ...... .. .. .. Steering Gear Worm & Sector Adjustments 3 Removal & Installation ...... ...... ...... ...... .. .. .. 4 Major Repair Operations ...... ...... ...... ...... ..... . Steering Gear Disassembly ... ... ...... .. .. .. Steering Gear Assembly ... .. . .. .. . .... .. ..... .
3-45 3-45
3-45 3-46 3-46 3-46 3-47
DESCRIPTION
The steering gear (Fig. 66)·is of the worm and recirculating ball type. The sector shaft is straddle mounted having a bushing located in the cover above the gear and a roller bearing in the housing below the gear. The worm bearing preload is controlled by the large adjusting nut which is threaded into the housing. The sector shaft mesh load is controlled by an adjusting screw located in the housing cover. The steering linkage consists of the Pitman arm, steering-arm-to-idler arm rod, idler arm and the spindle connecting rods (tie rods).
B
Page
FIG.66 . STEERING GEAR
IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
STEERING WORM AND SECTOR GEAR ADJUSTMENTS The ball nut assembly and the sector gear must be adjusted properly to maintain minimum steering shaft end play (a factor of preload adjustment) and minimum backlash between sector gear and ball nut. There are only two possible adjustments within the recirculating ball-type . steering gear, and these should be
made in the following order to avoid @mage or gear failure. 1. Disconnect the Pitman arm from the steering Pitman-to-idler arm rod. 2. Loosen the nut which locks the sector adjusting screw (Fig. 67), and turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise. 3. Measure the worm bearing preload by attaching an in-lb torque wrench to the steering wheel nut • With the steering wheel offcentre, read the pull required to rotate the input shaft approximately 1! turns either side of centre. If the torque or preload is not within specification (Part 3-7), adjust as explained in the next step. 4. Loosen the steering shaft bearing adjuster lock nut, and tighten or back off the bearing adjuster (Fig. 66) to bring the preload within the
FIG. 67- Steering Gear Adiustments - Typical specified limits. 5. Tighten the steering shaft bearing adjuster lock nut, and recheck the preload. 8. Turn the steering wheel slowly to either stop. Turn gently against
the stop to avoid possible damage to the ball return guides. Then rotate the wheel 2f turns to centre the ball nut.
FIG. 68- Checking Steering Gear Preload - Typical 7. Turn the sector adjusting screw clockwise until the specified torque (Part 3-7) is necessary to rotate the worm past its centre (high spot). 8. While holding the sector adjusting screw, tighten the sector adjusting screw locknut to specification, and recheck the backlash adjustment. 9. Connect the Pitman arm to the steering arm-to-idler arm rod.
GROUP 3- SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS & TYRES
El
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
REMOVAL
1. On V8 units remove the brake master cylinder and booster. 2. Remove the two nuts from the flexible coupling to steering shaft flange bolts. NOTE: On VS units it may be advantageous to remove the flexible coupling from the steering gear stub shaft. 3. Remove the nut and lock washer that secures the Pitman arm to the sector shaft . {On power steering units remove the two fluid hoses from the steering gear.) 4. Remove the steering gear to side rail bolts and remove the gear.
EJ
INSTALLATION
1. Position the steering gear and flexible coupling in the vehicle; then, install and torque the steering gear to side rail bolts to specification. 2. Position the Pitman arm on the sector shaft and install the attaching nut and lock washer. Torque the nut to specification. Part 3-7. 3. Install and connect the flexible coupling attaching nuts and torque them to specification. {On power steering units replace the two fluid hoses.) 4. On V8 units replace the brake master cylinder and booster. S. 'Bleed the brakes (See page 2•3.)
MAJOR ·REPAIR OPERATIONS
STEERING GEAR DISASSEMBLY
1. Rotate the steering shaft to centre the nut. 2. Mter removing the sector adjusting screw locknut and the housing cover bolts (Fig. 70 ), remove the sector shaft with the cover. Remove the cover from the shaft by turning the screw clockwise. Keep the shim with the screw. 3. Loosen the worm bearing adjuster nut, and remove the adjuster assembly and the steering shaft upper bearing (Fig. 71 ). 4. Carefully pull the steering shaft and ball nut from the housing, and remove the steering shaft lower bearing. To avoid possible damage to the ball return guides, keep the ball nut from running down to either end of the worm. Disassemble the ball nut only if there is indication of binding or tightness. 5. Remove the ball return guide clamp and the ball return guides from the ball nut. Keep the ball nut damp-side up until ready to remove the balls. 6. Turn the ball nut over, and rotate the worm shaft from side to side until all 54 balls have dropped out of the nut into a clean pan. With the balls removed, the ball nut will slide off the worm.
7. Remove the upper bearing cup from the bearing adjuster and the lower cup from the housing. It may be necessary to tap the housing or the adjuster on a block of wood to jar the bearing cups loose. 8. If the preliminary inspection shows damage, press the sector shaft
bearing and the oil seal from the housing Note: The inner sector shaft bearing is flanged on the inner end and must be removed by a suitable drift toward the inside of the housing. The outer or lower bearing and
FIG. 70- Sedor Shaft and Housing Disassembled
FIG. 71- Steering Shaft and Related Parts Disassembled
PART 3-5- STEERING GEAR seal may now be removed together by using a suitable drift through the housin)!; toward the outer end of the sector shaft aperture. Assembly 1. If the sector shaft bearings and oil seal have been removed press a new inner (flanged) bearing into the housing until the flange abuts the housing. · 2. Press the outer or lower bearing into the housing until it is just below the oil seal locating shoulder. 3. Press the oil seal into the housing. Do not clean, wash or soak seals in cleaning solvent (Fig. 70). Apply the recommended steering gear lubricant to the bearing and seals. 4. Install a bearing cup in the lower end of the housing and in the adjuster. S,. If the seal in the bearing adjuster was removed, install a new seal. 6. Insert the ball guides into the holes of the ball nut, tapping them lightly with a wood handle of a screw driver if necessary to seat them. 7. Insert 27 balls into the hole in the top of each ball guide. It may be necessary to rotate the .shaft slightly one way, then in the opposite direction to distribute the balls in the circuit. 8. After the 54 balls are installed, install the ball guide clamp. Torque the screws to specification. C)lc:ck the worm shaft to .m ake sure that it rotates freely. 9. Coat the threads of the steering shaft bearing adjuster, the housing cover bolts. and the sector adjusting · screw with a suitable oil-resistant seal-
ing compound. Do not apply sealer to female threads and especially a¥oid getting any sealer on the steering shaft bearings. 10. Coat the worm bearings, sector shaft bearings, and gear teeth with steering gear lubricant. 11. Clamp the housing in a vise, with the sector shaft axis horizontal, and position the steering shaft lower bearing in its cup. 12. Position the steering shaft and ball nut assemblies in the housing. 13. Position the steering shaft upper bearing on the top of the worm, and install the steering shaft bearing adjuster and the adjuster nut and bearing cup. leave the nut loose. 14.. Adjust the worm bearing preload, using an in-Ib torque wrench (Fig. 72). See Page 3-56 for the speci· fled preload. 15. Position the sector adjusting screw and adjuster shim. and check the end clearance which should not exceed 0.002 inch between the screw head and the end of the sector shaft. If clearance is greater than 0.002 inch, add enough shims to reduce the end play to within the 0.002 inch tolerance. 16. Start the sector shaft adjusting screw into the housing cover. 17 . Install a new gasket on the housing cover. 18. Rotate the steering shaft until the ball nut teeth are in position to mesh with the sector gear, tilting the housing so that the ball will tip toward ~he housing cover opening.
3-47 ' 19. lubricate the sector shaft journal and install the sector shaft and cover. 20. With the housing cover turned out of the way fill the gear with 0.97 of gear lubricant. Push the lbs housing cover and sector shaft assemblies into place, and install the two top housing cover bolts. Do not tight· en the co•er bolts until it is certain
FIG. 72 -Checking Steering Shaft Bearing Preload - Typical that there is some lash between ball nut and sector gear teeth. Hold or push the. cover away from the ball nut, then torque the bolts to specification. 21. After loosely installing the sector shaft adjusting screw lock nut, adjust the sector shaft mesh load. See Page 3-56 for the specified mesh load; then, tighten the adjusting screw lock nut.
PART 3-6 D
WHEELS AND TYRES
Section 1. Description & Operation ... ... ... ... .•. ... ... Front Wheel - Rear Wheel... ... ... ... ... 2. In-Car Adjustments & Repairs... ... ... ... ... ... Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment ... ............ 3. Removal & Installation ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 4. Major Repair Operations .....................
Page 3-48 3-48 3-48 3-48 3-49 3~so
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
The road wheels are of pressed steel double Slifety (JJ) rim construction and are of five and six inch width depending on tyre size. Refer specification section.
ADJUSTING NUT
FRONT WHEEL Each front wheel and tyre assembly is bolted to its respective front hub and brake drum (or hub and disc). Two opposed tapered roller bearings are installed in each hub. A grease retainer is installed at the inner end of the hub to prevent lubricant from leaking into the drum or on the disc. The entire .assembly is retained to its spindle by the adjusting nut, nut lock and cotter pin (Figs. 73 and 74).
WHEEL ASSEMBLY HUI IIOLT
FIG. 73 -Front Hub, Bearings and Grease Retainer- Drum BrakesTypical HUB AND IIOTOit ASSEMBLY
CUP ADJUSTING
REAR WHEEL
INNER lEAR lNG
NUT
The rear brake drum wheel and tire assemblys are mounted on the rear axle shaft flange studs, and are retained by the wheel nuts. The rear wheel bearing is pressed onto the axle shaft just inside the shaft flange, and the entire assembly is retained to the rear axle housing by the bearing retainer plate which is bolted to the housing flange.
GRWf RETAINEI
~
The inner end of each axle shaft is splined to the differential in the
rear axle.
EJ
FIG. 74- Front Hub, Bearings and Grease Retainer- Disc BrakesTypical
IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
HOISTING INSTRUCTIONS
lteertq Uakap.
Damage to suspension and/ or steering linkage components may occur if care is not exercised when positioning the hoist adapters of 2 post hoists prior to lifting the car. H a 2 post hoist is used to lift the car, place the adapters under the front suspension lower arms. Do DOt dow tbe adapten to eoatact the
FRONT WHEEL BEARING ADJUSTMENT The front wheel bearings should be adjusted if the wheel is too loose on the spindle or if the wheel does not rotate freely. The followiilg procedure will bring the bearina adjustment to specification.
1. Raise the car until the wheel and tire clear the floor. 2. Pry off the hub cap or wheel cover and remove the grease cap from the hub. · 3. Wipe the excess grease from the end of the spindle, and remove the cotter pin and nut lock. 4. If equipped with disc brakes, loosen the bearing adjusting nut
3-49
PART 3-6- WHEELS & lYRES three .turns. Then, rock the wheel and disc assembly in and out several times to push the shoe and linings away from the disc. 5. While rotating the wheel, hub and drum or Hub and Disc Assembly, torque the adjusting nut to 17-25 ft.-lbs. to seat the bearings (Fig. 75). 6. Back off the adjusting nut 1~ flats i.e. 90° to obtain bearing end float of the specified .002 - .0065 for disc brakes and .0005 - .0065 for drum brakes. 7. Selectively position the nut retainer on the adjusting nut so that a set of.slots lines up ·with the cotter pin hole. 8. Lock the adjusting nut and nut retainer with a new cotter pin.
EJ
9. Check the front wheel rotation. If the wheel rotates properly, install the grease cap and the hub cap or wheel cover. U the wheel still rotates roughly or noisily, clean or replace the bearings and cups as required.
a $
t
10. Before driving the car (if equipped with disc brakes), pump the brake pedal several times to obtain normal brake lining to Diee clearance and restore normal brake pedal travel.
a
@ WITH WHEEL ROTATING TORQUE ADJUSTING NUT TO 17-25 FT. LBS.
BACK ADJUSTING NUT OFF TO OBTAIN THE SPECIFIED END FLOAT.
INSTALL THE LOCK AND A NEW COTTER PIN.
FIG. 75 - Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
HOISTING INSTRUCTIONS Damage to suspension and/ or steering linkage components may occur if care is not exercised when positioning the hoist adapters of 2 post ·hoists prior to liftina the car. If a 2 post hoist is used to lift the car, place the adapten under the front suspension lower arms. Do aot allow the adapten to eoatact the ateerlaa Hnkace. · WHEEL AND TYRE REMOVAL 1. Pry off the wheel hub cap or cover. Loosen but do not remove the wheel lua nuts. 1. Raise the car until the wheel and tyre clear the floor. 3. Remove the wheel lua nuts from the bolts, and pull the wheel and tyre assembly from the hub and drum or dise.
REMOVING TYRE FROM WHEEL The tire can be demounted on a mounting machine. Be lUte that tbe outer lllde of the wheel Ia posidoned downward. If tire irons are UJed fol· low the procedure given here. 1. Remove the valve cap and core, and deftate the tyre completely. 1. With a bead loosening tool, break loose the tyr~ side walls from the wheel (Fig. 69 ). 3. Potidon the oater llde of the wbeel downward, and intert two tyre irons about 8 inches apart between the tyre inner bead and the back side of the wheel rim. U1e oaly tyre lroal
If a new wheel is being installed, coat a new valve with lubricant and position the valve to the new wheel. Use a rubber hammer or a valve replacing tool to seat the valve firmly against the inside of the rim.
FlOSI·A
FIG. 76 - Bead Loosening Tool with rounded edpe or lroas detlped for demoundq tubelea tyrea. 4. Leave one tyre iron in position, and pry the rest of the bead over the rim with the other iron. Take small "bites" with the iron around the tyre in order to avoid damaging the seal· ing surface of the tyre bead. 5. Stand the wheel and tire upright with the tyre outer bead in the drop center wen at the hottom of the wheel. Insert the tyre iron between the bead and the edge of the wheel rim. and pry the wheel out of the tire.
INSTALLING TYRE ON WHEEL 1. If a used tire is being installed remove all dirt from the tyre If a tyre is being mounted to the original wheel, clean the rim with emery cloth or fine steel wool. Check the rim for dents.
2. Apply rubber lubricant to the sealing surface on both tyre beads. With the outer side of the wheel down, pry two beads over the wheel rim with two tyre irons, or by u5ing a rubber mallet. 3. Align the balance mark on the tire with the valve on the wheel. 4. Hold the beads against the rim ftangcs by positioning a tire mount· ing band over the tire (Fig. 77). If 2 mounting band is not available, tie a torniquct of heavy cord around the circumference of the tire. Tighten the cord with a tire iron. Center the tire on the wheel with a rubber mallet. 5. Give the tire a few quick bursts of air to seat the beads properly, then inftatc the tire to 40 pounds pressure. Check to sec that the bead positioning rings (outer rings near the side walls) arc evenly visible just above the rim ftanges all the way around the .tire. If the rings are not even, deftate the tire completely and inftate it again. 6. When the rings arc properly positioned, deflate the tire to the recommended pressure.
3-50
GROUP
3- SUSPENSION,
STEERING, WHEELS & lYRES
WHEEL AND TYRE INSTALLATION 1. Clean all dirt from the hub. 2. Position the wheel and tyre assembly on the hub. Install the wheel lug nuts and tighten them alternately in order to draw the wheel evenly against the hub.
3. Lower the car to the floor, and torque the lug nuts to specification
FIG. 77 -Tubeless Tyre Mounting Band
EJ
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS
HOISTING INSTRUCTIONS Damage to suspension and/ or steering linkage components may occur if care is not exercised when positioning the hoist adapters of 2 post hoists prior to lifting the car. If a 2 post hoist is used to lift the car, place the adapters under the front suspension lower arms. Do Dot .Uow the adapten to coatact tbe lteertq llabae. FRONT WHEEL GREASE SEAL AND BEARING REPLACEMENT AND/OR REPACKING If bearing adjustment will not eliminate looseness or roush and noisy operation, the hub and bear· inas shou d be cleaned, inspected,
and repacked. If the bearing cups or the cone and roller assemblies are wom or damaged, they should be replaced.
DRUM BRAKES 1. Raise the car until the wheel and tire clear the ftoor. 2. Remove the wheel cover or hub cap. . Remove the grease cap from the hub. Remove the cotter pin, nut lock, adjusting nut, and ftat washer from the spindle. Remove the outer bearina cone and roller assembly (Fig. 73). 3. Pull the wheel, hub, and drum assembly off the wheel spindle. 4. Remove the arease retainer end the inner bearing cone and roller u-
sembly from the hub with a ·drift. 5. aean the lubricant off the inner and outer bearing cups with solvent and inspect the cups for scratches, pits, excessive wear, and other damage. If the cups are worn or damaged, remove them with a drift.
6. Thoroughly clean the inner and outer bearing cones and rollers with solvent, and dry them thoroughly. Do not spin the bearing with compressed air. 7. Inspect the cone and roller as.semblies for wear or damage, and replace them if nec:essary. 1'lle CGM ud roller ad tile ....._ IDa cups should be repa.ced • a lllllt If .......e to either II CMOUDtend.
-•blia
PART 3-6- WHEELS & TYRES 8. Thoroughly clean the r. spindle and the inside of the hub with solvent to remove all old lubricant. Cover the spindle with a clean cloth, and brush all loose dust and dirt from the brake assembly. To prevent getting dirt on the spindle, carefully remove the cloth from the SDindle. 9. If the inner and/ or outer bearing cup(s) were removed, install the replacement cup(s) in the hub with . the tool shown in Fig. 78. Be
. sure to seat the cups properly in the hub. Do not pack the cavity between the bearings with grease. 10. All old grease should be completely cleaned from the bearings before repacking them with new grease. Pack the bearing cone and roller assemblies with wheel bearing grease. A bearing packer is desirable for this operation. If a packer is not available, work as much lubricant as possible between the rollers and cages. Lubricate the cone surfaces with grease
11. Place the inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the inner cup, and install the new grease retainer with the reverse end of the tool shown in Fig. 78. Be Stlre that the retainer is properly seated. Smear wheel bearing grease around seal lip. 12. Install the wheel, hub, and drum assembly on the wheel spindle. Keep the hub centered oa the apindle to prevent diUIUIIe to the puae ret.lner or the apindle threadl. 13. Install the outer bearing cone and roller assembly and the ftat washer on the spindle; then, install the adjusting out (Fig. 73). 14. Adjust the wheel bearings as outlined previously and install a new cotter pin. Bend the ends of the cotter pin around the castellatioos of the nut lock. Install the grease cap. 15. Install the hub cap or wheel cover.
DISC BRAKES 1. Raise the car until the wheel and tire clear the ftoor. 2. Remove the wheel cover or hub cap. 3. Remove the wheel and tire from the hub.
4. Remove 2 bolts attaching the caliper to the caliper bracket. Remove the caliper from the disc and wire it· to the underbody to prevent damage to the brake hose. 5. Remove the grease cap from the hub. Remove the cotter pin, nut lock, adjusting nut, and ftat washer from the spindle. Remove the outer bearing cone and roller assembly (Fig. 74). 6. Pull the hub and disc off the wheel spindle. 7. Remove the grease retainer and the inner bearing cone and roller assembly from the hub. 8. Clean the lubricant off the inner and outer bearing cups with solvent and inspect the . cups for scratches, pits, excessive wear, and other damage. If the cups are worn . or damaged, remove them with a drift. 9. Thoroughly clean the inner and outer bearing cones and rollers with solvent, and dry them thoroughly. Do
not spin the bearings with compressed air. Inspect the cone and roller assemblies for wear or damage, and replace them if necessary. The cone and roUer assemblies and the bear· ing cups should be replaced as a unit if damage to either il encountered. 10. Thoroughly clean the spindle · and the inside of the hub with solvent to remove all old lubricant. Cover the spindle with a clean cloth, and brush all loose dust and dirt from the brake assembly. To prevent aettina dirt on the spindle carefuUy remove· the cloth from the spindle. 11. If the inner and I or outer bearing cup(s) were removed, install the replacement cup(s) in the hub with the tool shown in Fig. 78. Be sure to seat the cups propedy In the bub. 12.Do not pack the cavity between the bearings with grease. All old grease should be completely cleaned from the bearings before packing them with new grease. Pack the bearing cone and roller assemblies with wheel bearing grease. A bearing packer is desirable for this operation. If a packer is not available, work as much lubricant as possible between the rollers and cages. Lubricate the cone surfaces with grease.
3-51
INNER CUP INSTALLATION
OUTER CUP INSTALLATION F1057-A
FIG. 78 - Installing Front Wheel Bearing Cup13. Place the inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the inner cup, and install the new grease retainer with the reverse end of the tool shown in FJg. 78. Be sure that
the retainer is properly seated. Smear wheel bearing grease around seal lip. 14. Install the hub and disc on the wheel spindle. Keep the bub centered on the spindle to prevent damage to tht: lff!&Se retainer or the spindle threads. 15. Install the outer bearing cone and roller assembly and the ftat washer on the spindle; then, install the adjusting nut. 16. Position the caliper over the rotor and install the 2 attaching bolts. 17. Install the wheel and tire on the hub. 18. Adjust the wheel bearings as outlined previously, and install a new cotter pin. Bend the ends of the cotter pin around the castellations of the nut lock. 19. Install the hub cap or wheel cover and lower the car.
FRONT HUB AND DRUM REPLACEMENT When the hub and drum assembly is replaced, a new grease retainer must be installea in the new assembly. The new grease retainer sealing surfaces should be coated with wheel bearing grease. 1. Raise the car until the wheel and tire clears the ftoor. Pry off the hub cap or wheel cover, and remove the wheel and tire assembly from the hub and drum assembly. l. Remove the grease cap from the hub. Remove the cotter pin, out
3-52
GROUP 3- SUSPENSION, STEERING, . WHEELS with grease. 6. Place the inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the inner cup, and install the new grease retainer with the reverse end of the tool shown in F!g. 78. Be sure that the retainer is properly seated.
4. Remove the protective coating from the new hub and disc with carburettor degreaser. Install new inner and outer bearing cups in the new hub with the tool shown in Fig. 78. Be sure to seat the cups properly in the hub.
Smear wheel bearing grease around seal lip. 7. Install the new hub and drum assembly on the wheel spindle. Keep
S. Do not pack the cavity between the bearings with grease.
All old grease should be completely cleaned from the bearinp before repacking them with new grease. Pack the bearing cone and roller assemblies with wheel bearing grease. A bearing packer is desirable for this operation. If a packer is not available, work as much lubricant as possible between the rollen and cages. Lubricate the cone surfaces with grease. ·
the hub centered on the spindle to prevent damage to the ll'ease ~ talner.
FIG. 79- Front Wheel Hub Lubrication lock, adjusting nut, and ftat washer from the spindle. Remove the outer bearing cone and roller assembly (Fig. 73). 3. Pull the wbeel, hub, and drum assembly off the wheel spindle. 4. Remove the protective coating from the new hub and drum with carburetor de greaser. Install new inner and outer bearing cups in the new hub with the tool shown in Fig. 78. Be sure to seat the cups properly in the hub.
S. Do not pack the cavity bet ween the bearings with grease. All old grease should be com~ pletely cleaned from the bearings before repacking them with new grease. Pack the bearing cone and roller assemblies with wheel bearing grease. A bearing packer is desirable for this operation. If a packer is not available, work as much lubricant as possible between the rollers and cages. Lubricate the cone surfaces
& lYRES
8. Install the outer bearing cone and roller assembly and the ftat washer on the spindle; then, install the adjusting nut (Fig. 73). 9. Position the wheel and tire assembly on the new hub and drum assembly. Install the wheel lug nuts and tighten them alternately in order to draw the wheel evenly against the hub and drum. Do not exceed specifications. 10. Adjust the wheel bearings as outlined previously, and install a new cotter pin. Bend the ends of the cotter pin around the castellations of the nut lock. Install the grease cup. 11. Install the hub cap or wheel cover. FRONT HUB AND DISC REPLACEMENT When the hub and disc assembly is replaced, a new grease retainer must be installed in the new assembly. The new grease retainer sealing surfaces should be coated with wheel bearing grease. 1. Raise the car until the wheel and tyre clears the floor. Pry off the hub cap or wheel cover, and remove the wheel and tyre assembly from the hub and disc. 2. Remove lock wires and 2 bolts attaching the caliper to the spindle. Remove the caliper from the rotor and wire it to the underbody to prevent damage to the brake hose. 3. Remove the grease cap from the hub. Remove the cotter pin, nut lock, adjusting nut, and flat washer from tlie spindle. Remove the outer bearing. cone and roller assembly (Fig. 77). Pull the hub and disc off the w.heel spindle.
6. Place the inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the inner cup, and install the new grease re~ tainer with the reverse end of the tool shown in Fig. 78. Be sure that the retainer is properly seated. Smear wheel bearing grease around seal lip. 7. Install the new hub and disc assembly on the wheel spindle. Keep the hub centred on the spindle to prevent damage to the grease retainer. 8. Install the outer bearing cone and roller assembly and the ftat washer on the spindle; then, install the adjusting nut (Fig. 74). .
9. A4just wheel bearings as outlined previously and install a new cotter pin. Bend the ends of the cotter pin around the castellations of nut lock. · 10. Position the caliper over the rotor and install the caliper to spindle bolts. Torque to specification. 11. Rewire the caliper mounting bolts to specification. 12. Position the wheel and tyre assembly on the new hub and disc. Install the wheel hub nuts and tighten them alternately in order to draw the wheel evenly against the hub and disc. Do not exceed specifications (Part 3-7).
3-53
PART 3-7
SPECIFICATIONS
FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT
FALCON-FAIRLANE-C:.T. *
Caster Camber Toe-in
Mill. -~0
-~·
3/16 in.
Checki111 Speciftcatiells Ma1i111m Varlatlo11 Mil. letweea WhHis
+1" +1* 5/16 in.
0"11111 Re·llttiq SpiCiiiCitieas Onlretl Ali1111ellt
~·
+%0
~·
+W
-
~in.
Kina Pin Anele Turnine Angle of Outside.Wheel With Inside Wheel Turned 20"
7~· 17~·
*G.T.-INSTALLATION SPACERS ARE NOT TO BE USED-VEHICLE KERB HEIGHT TO BE EVEN ON BOTH SIDES AT KERB WEIGHT.
FRONT SUSPENSION TORQUE LIMITS
REAR SUSPENSION TORQUE LIMITS To~•
Terque ft·LI11 Ref.
"'· 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
11 12 13 14 15
....
let.
Descrllltlea Shock Absorber Upper Attachment Shock Absorber Upper Bracket to Body Front Suspension Compression Bumper to Body Brake Backin& Plate to Spindle Upper Arm and Inner Shaft to Body Spring Seat to Upper Arm Shock Absorber to Sprin& Seat Wheel Nut Wheel Burin& Adjustln& Nut Ball Joint to Spindle (Upper and lower) Strut to lower Arm lower Arm to Underbody Stabilizer Bar Mountin& Bracket to Underbody Strut to Underbody Stabilizer Bar to Lower Arll
Ft·Us
20-28 8·13 12-17 3G-40 75-100 17-25 12-17 85·105
1 2 3 4 5 6
7 8
Dllcrl"lll Sprin~
Shaclde Bars to Body and 15·22 Spr na Rear Shock Absorber to Upper 15-25 Mountin& Bracket Reer Shock AbsOrber to Rear 15-25 Sprin& Clip Plate Rear Sprin& to Rear Axle U-bolt Nut 30-45 Wheel Nut 85·105 45-55 Rear Sprin& to Rear Sprine Front Hanear Radius rod (Front) 55·75 Radius rod (Rear) 55-75
55-70 75-100 11·16 40-60
5-10
IALL JOINTS
i.e.90° .
Torque to specification then
tighten the nut to the nearest cotter pin slot and insert the cotter pin.
Radial Plar (Inches) Max. Allowable Upper Ball Joint lower Ball Joint
0.250 at wheel rim Replace if Perceptibly Loose
J-54
GROUP 1- SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS & TYRES
FIG. 80 -Front Suspension Torque Limits
FIG. 81- Rear Suspension Torque Limits
PART 3-7- SPECIFICATIONS
3-55
MUST NOT 8l TWIS TED
FIG. 82-6 Cyl. Power Steering Torque Limits
PULLEY WITH PULL OFF GROOVE FACING FRONT OF CAR TO BE PRESSED ON FLUSH WITH END OF SHAFT : .010
STEERING LINKAGE TORQUI LIMITS
•ef. No.
1 2 3 4
,._.,..,_,~"'------ 2!1 ~
Ll Fl
fOR All APPliCATIONS PULLE Y WITH PUll· OfF GROOVE 'ACING ,ltONT OF CAR TO IE PAUSE D ON FlUSH W IT H END OF SHAFT + .010
5
6 tt
l l. IN.
3A71t MF.
7 8
FIG . 82A- 8 Cyl. Power Steering Torque Limits
9 10 11
12 13
Descrl~lo•
Cylinder Mounti'lf Br~eket to Under body Ide Hole) Steerlna Spindle Ann Connectin1 Rod End to Spindle Arin Idler Ann Mountln1 BriCkel to Underbody Pitman Ann to Steerln1 Ann·to-ldler Ann ROd or to Valve and link Assembly Steerin1 sclndle Ann Connect n1 Rod to Steer· inl Ann-to-Idle Ann Rod Cylinder Mountlnlo Bracket to Underbody ( ttom Hole) Power Cylinder to BriCklt Power t,llinder to Br~eklt lock ut stnrlq Ge• to Skit Rill Pitman Ann to Sector Shaft Power Cylinder to Control Rod Idler Ann to Steerln1 Annto-Idler Ann Rod. Steeriq S~lndle Ann Connect1n1 Rod llld End Clamp to Adjustlna Sleeve
,.,..n-us su-..
Pnlr Stllrill Stllrlll
-
28-35 ~30-40
28-35
~35-47
Gl30-40
-
40-43 18-24
-
3-5
50-&5
150-225
-
35-47
-.so 11-28
G>Torque to low limit of specification; then, tiahten the nut to the nearest cotter pin slot and insert the cotfer piA.
3-56
GROUP
3-
STEERING GEAR POWER · Gear Ratio Maxinium (on centre) 17.5:1 Minimum (on lock) 11: 1 Turns of Steerin$ Wheel 2.6 (Stop to Stop) PRELOADS (AU readings in inch pounds) Note: Preloads are cumulative and must be checked and set in sequence. 1. Seal drag *-1 2. Worm bearing New 2-3 Used1-2 3. Gear Drag New 1-1* Used-* 4. Worm follow preload New 6-7 Used 3-4 5. Rack and Sector New 6-7 Used3-4 Total Preload New 15*-19* Used 7*-11~ Fluid type M2C33F Fluid capacity'( total syste.r:n) 2.5 pts Drive belt tension (lbs) new belt 120-130 used belt 90-120
SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS & TYRES
STEERING GEAR MANUAL EXCEPT
GT 20:1
Gear Ratio Turns of Steering Wheel (Stop to Stop) 5 Worm Bearing Preload in-lbs 3-8 Total Preload (Worm Bearing plus Sector Mesh) in-lbs 10-16 Lube Capacity (oz) 11 Lube Type ESW-MIC87-A
GT ONLY 16:1 4
3-8
10-16
ITIIIINO OIAI TORQUE LIMITS Sector shaft cover bolts 30ft lbs. Meshload adjusting screw locknut 30 ft lbs. Piston-rack cover 30.40 ft lbs. Pre-load adjuster locknut60.80 ft lbs. Flexible Coupling Attaching nut 48-50 ft lbs. Filler plug 7.9 ft lbs. Flexible coupling nuts 12.20 ft lbs.
STIDINO GEAR TOIQUI LIMITS Sector shaft cover bolts 30 ft lbs. Meshload adjusting 32.40 ft lbs. screw locknut Pre-load adjuster locknut60.80 ft lbs. Ball return guide clamp screw 42.60in lbs. Flexible coupling pinch bolts 28,38 ft lbs.
ADJUSTMENTS ALL MODELS: Adjusting screw clearance at boHom of sector shaft T-slot-.000" .002". Sector Shaft end play-steering link1ge disconnected-none.
STilliNG COLUMN TORQUE UMITS
DtlcrJ,till
NOTES: ®Gur-oniJ-IIOt attached to Pttm• Inn. Total (mesh lold plus worm bea::~~ preiOIID must be 1 minimum of 2 lb. in. aretter thin worm be«il!l preiOid. . ®Required to rotlle Input shift 1nd Worm wembly pat the center high point. ®Torque required to rotlte input shift 1t :rroxillllttly 1~ turns either side of center lit• out of Yehle or Pttm• disconnecttell
Stearina Wheel Ret1ining Nut Steerina Column to Support Bracket !Instrument P1nell Stearina Column Shift Ann to Shift Linklp Sell Ret1iner to DISh P111el
T••• ft.US
25-30 12-16 20-35 1
16-22
PART 3-7- SPECIFICATIONS
3-57
COLD TYRE INFLATION PRESSURE P.S.I. (3)
VEHICLE XA/ZFSEDAN 6 and 8 Cyl.
TYRESIZE 6.95Ll44PR 7.35 L14) 4PR 7.35814) 4PR 1858R14 E70HR14
XAWAGON 6and8 Cyl.
FALCONG.T.
NORMAL LOAD (1) FRONT REAR
FULLY LADEN (2) FRONT REAR
24
24
30
32
24
24
26
28
24 22
22 22
30 28
30 28
7.35L14) 4PR 7.35814) 4PR 1858R14 E70HR14
24
24
28
24 24
24 24
28 28
32 32
E70HR14
24
24
30
30
UNLADEN UTIUTY AND VAN 10 cwt. 6 and 8 Cyl.
IS cwt.
I
32
LADEN
7.35L14)4PR 7.35814) 4PR 1858R14 E70HR14
24
24
28
32
24 24
24 24
28 28
32 32
7.75L14 6PR
24
24
28
36
(1) tyre pressures at normal load apply when the vehicle is loaded with up to three persons. (2) · fully laden tyre pressures apply when the vehicle is loaded in ex~ss of normal load and up to maximum rated loads. NOTE maximum load for passenger vehicles is all seating positions occupied plus 200 lb load in the luggage compartment when applied to sedan or 300 lb when applicable to station wagon. Maximum load for commercial vehicles is G.V.W. (3a) for trailer towing or sustained high speed (1 hour or more) above 75 M.P.H. for bias ply tyres or 85 M.P.H. for radial ply tyres, cold inflation pressures must be increased by 4 P .8.1. (3b) do not exceed the following pressures. Cross ply 4 ply rating 32 p.s.i. 6 ply rating 36 p.s.i. Radial ply 40 p.s.i.
All tyres are now performance rated by the Australian Rubber Manufacturers Association, and the rating signified by a letter included in the tyre size nomenclature moulded on the tyre. As applied to the Falcon/Fairlane tyres the letters are as follows: L
s
SR HR(orRH)
100 mph performance rating (as in 6.95Ll4) 110 mph performance rating (as in 7 .35814) 120 mph performance rating (as in 1858R14) 130 mph performance rating (as in E70HR14)
RPO RPO RPO RPO NA
RPO RPO RPO
RPO RPO RPO RPO NA
RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO
RPO RPO RPO RPO NA
RPO RPO RPO
RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO
RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO
RPO RPO RPO RPO NA
RPO RPO RPO
RPO RPO RPO
FAIRMONT SED WAG 54D 71D STD NA RPO STD RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO NA NA
STD
NA
NA NA NA NA NA
NA
NA
GT SED 54H NA NA NA NA NA NA
NA
NA
NA NA NA NA NA
NA
NA
NA NA NA NA NA
RPO RPO
RPO RPO
FAIR LANE CUSTOM 500 SED SED 54E 548 STD STD RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO NA NA
FOOTNOTES TO TABLE (1) All lyres are now performance rated by the Australian Rubber Manufacturers Association, and the rating signified by a letter included intyre size nomenclature moulded on the tyre. As applied to the Falcon/Fairlane tyres the letters are as follows: L 100 mph performance rating (as in 6.95L 14) S 110 mph performance rating (as in 7.35S14) SR 120 mph performance rating (as in 185SR14) HR (or RH)-130 mph performance rating (as in ER70H14) (2) 7.35l14 Tyras are standard on 10 cwt Utility and Van, however when 15 cwt load option is specified 7.75l14 Six Ply tyres are required and no further tyre option is available. (3) 185SR14 Radial Ply tyres are minimum requirements with Sports Handling Suspension RPO on 302 CID V-8 and 351 CID 2V V-8 engined vehicles. (4) The Styled Steel Road Wheels as well as being standard on Falcon GT constitute part of the Rally Pack RPO and 7.35l14 lyres are minimum requirement with the Rally Pack RPO. (5) 7.35l14 lyres are minimum requirement with the Sports Road Wheel RPO. (6) 7.35S14 lyres are minimum requirement with 351 2V engine RPO.
(2) 7.75L14 6 P.R. (3) 185SR14 Radial ply BSW &JJ Wheel with 0.5 in. offset ER70H14Wide oval Rad. ply RSW 6JJ Wheel with 0.5 in. offset
RPO RPO RPO RPO NA
5JJ Wheel with 0.5 ill. of.fset 5JJ Wheel with 0.5 in. offset 5JJ Wheel with 0.5 in. offset &JJ Wheel with 0.5 in. offset
RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO
WSW BSW WSW BSW
7.35S14 4P.R.
RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO
RPO RPO RPO RPO NA RPO RPO RPO RPO NA
RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO
6JJ Wheel with 0.5 in. offset
"led Stnl Wheel (4) & Sports Road Whnl (5): 27.35L14 4 P.R. BSW 5JJ Wheel with 0.5 in. offset
RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO
&JJ Wheel with 0.5 in. offset
500 WAG UTE 718 668 NA NA STD STD RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO NA RPO
5JJ Wheel with 0.5 in. offset 5JJ Wheel with 0.5 in. offset 5JJ Wheel with 0.5 in. offset 5JJ Wheel with 0.5 in. offset 5JJ Wheel with 0.5 in. offset &JJ Wheel with 0.5 in. offset
SED 548 STD RPO RPO RPO RPO NA
Standard Stamped Whnls: 6.95l14 4 P.R. BSW (2) 7.35l14 4 P.R. BSW WSW (6) 7.35S14 4 P.R. BSW WSW (2) U5L 14 6 P.R. BSW (3) 185SR14 Radial ply BSW ER70H14Wide oval Rad. ply RSW
STANDARD WAG UTE VAN 71A 66A 78A NA NA NA STD STD STD RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO RPO NA RPO RPO
FUT URA SED 54C STD RPO RPO RPO RPO NA
FALCON
SED 54A STD RPO RPO RPO RPO NA
TYRE (1) & WHEEL OPTIONS
m
CJ)
m
;o
~
~
CJ)
,...
J: m m
~
z
G'>
;o
~ m
z
0
CJ)
z
m
""tJ
cCJ)
CJ)
i't'
0
..
"c:,.,
(X)
0'1
w I
FALCON FAIRLANE w~:~~~~P
REAR AXLE
GROUP 4
PAGE
PART
4-1
Rear Axles
4-2
PART
4-2
Rear Axle Overhaul
4-14
PART
4-3
Specifications
4-28
4-2
PART 4-1
REAR AXLES
Section 1 Identification, Description and Operation
Page
2 Diagnosis and Testing .
0
Section 3 In-Car Adjustment and Repair ... ... ......
4-2
Page 4-9
4-5
IDENTIFICATION DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
IDENTIFICATION INTEGRAL CARRIER CONVENTIONAL & LIMITED SLIP AXLES
A metal tag with the axle assembly part number, axle serial number and axle ratio is fixed to the right hand upper cover plate bolt. In addition to this tag the integral carrier limited slip axle has a tag attached under the oil filler plug. This tag states "SPIN RESIST ANT DIFF. USE APPROVED LUBRICANT ONLY". REMOVABLE CARRIER TRACTION LOK AXLE
The removable carrier "Traction Lok" rear axle has a tag attached under one of the upper carriers to housing bolts. This tag identifies the 2. 75 : 1 ratio as 2L 75-9 and the 3.00 : 1 ratio as 3L00-9 in the lower left corner. DESCRIPTION INTEGRAL CARRIER CONVENTIONAL AXLE
The rear axle is of the hypoid, semi-floating type using shim adjustment of bearing preloads. The differential case with ring-gear and the drive pinion, are mounted in opposed taper roller bearings in the one piece rear-axle carrier. Both two and four pinion differential assemblies are used. The splines on the axle shafts engage splines in the differential side gears and the axle shafts are held in the carrier by ball bearings and retainers at the axle housing outer ends. Axle shaft end play is pre-set and is not adjustable. Gear ratios are given on the identification tag. All operations other than removal of the axle shafts and the pinion oil seal, should be carried out with the unit removed from the vehicle.
ALL INTEGRAL CARRIER REAR AXLE ASSEMBLIES HAVE TAPERED ROLLER UNIT TYPE AXLE SHAFT BEARINGS FITTED Construction design is a single row, pre-set tapered roller bearing capable of accepting thrust loads in either direction and radial loads in any combination. The tapered roller unit type bearing consists of five basic parts: the cup or outer race, the cup rib ring, the cone, or inner race, the tapered rollers which roll freely between the cup and cone, and the cage which serves as a retainer to maintain the proper spacing between the tapered rollers grouped around the cone. When the bearing is manufactured, the cup and rib ring are bonded together with an adhesive to facilitate bearing handling and installation. Since the cup and rib ring are clamped together in the axle housing, there is no need for a permanent bond. When the bearing is serviced the cup will usually be separated from the rib ring. TAPERED ROLLER UNIT TYPE BEARING
l
All unit bearings are manufactured with a built-in adjustment of .007" to .018" "bench" end play or axial clearance. This "bench" end play is reduced when the bearing is pressed on the axle shaft. The final assembled end play on the shaft of .001" to .015" is dependent on the dimensions of the interference fit between the cone and the axle shaft. The standard recommended cone fit is .001" to .0022* tight. The cups are a loose fit in the housing. Used bearings may have a maximum of .025" end play. The bearing is held on the shaft by the interference fit of the bearing cone and the retaining collar. The cup and rib ring are clamped together in the axle housing through the seal by the clamping plate. The axle seal wipes on the rotating axle shaft and at the time functions as a static seal to prevent lube from escaping between the housing and seal outside diameter. It is important to note that the seal also acts as a "spacer" in the clamp up of the bearing in the axle housing. It is imperative that the specified seal is used. The UNIT TYPE BEARING requires no periodical maintenance when in service. LIMITED SLIP AND TRACTION LOK AXLES
3.
1.
CUP
2.
CUP RIB RING
3.
CONE
4.
ROLLERS
5.
CAGE
1
-------
FIG. 1 -Tapered Roller Unit Type Bearing
The limited slip and traction lok axles perform the same functions as the conventional type rear axle, ·and in addition they transfer driving forces to the wheel with traction should the opposite wheel begin to spin. INTEGRAL CARRIER LIMITED SLIP
The differential housing is identical with the conventional axle as is the ring gear and pinion. The differ-
4-3
PART 4-1-REAR AXLE
FIG. 2 - Exploded View Integral Carrier Conventional Axle Assembly with Tapered Roller Unit Type Axle Shaft Bearings- Typical DIFFERENTIAL COVER
\
DIFFERENTIAL BOLTS
~
THRUST WASHER PINION
~
(
DIFFERENTIAL CAP
I
DIFFERENTIAL BOLTS
/
THRUST WASHER
PINION
THRUST BLOCK
FIG. 3 - Integral Carrier Limited Slip Differential
PINION SHAFT DOWEL
4-4
GROUP 4-REAR AXLE
entia! case houses two cone type clutches behind the side gears. These cones are splined to the axle shafts, their tapered faces bearing on the differential case. Springs enclosed in two thrust blocks and interposed between the two side gears pre-load the gears and cones, forcing the tapered face of the cones into contact with the differential case. The partial locking action, due to the spring load on the cones is automatically increased by the inherent separating forces between the side gears and pinions. This locking action directs the major driving force to the wheel with the greater traction.
pinion shaft in front of the pinion gear with a collapsible spacer. A straight roller (pilot) bearing supports the pinion shaft at the rear of the pinion gear. Pinion and ring gear tooth contact is adjusted by adding or removing shims from between the pinion retainer and the carrier housing. The differential assembly is mounted on two opposed tapered roller bearings, which are retained in the carrier by removable caps. The entire carrier assembly is bolted to the axle housing. Ball bearing assemblies (rear wheel bearings) are pressed onto the outer ends of the axle shafts and set in the outer ends of the axle housing. These bearing~ support the semi-floating axle shafts at the outer ends. The inner ends of the shafts spline to the differential side gears. Bearing retainer plates hold the shafts in the housing. The left and right axle shafts are not interchangeable, the left shaft being shorter than the right. The Traction-Lok (torque se~si tive) locking differential (Fig. 4) employs a multiple disc clutch to control differential action. Shim(s) which control side gear mounting distance, four steel, four friction and
REMOVABLE CARRIER TRACTION LOK AXLE
The rear axle is of the banjohousing hypoid gear type using a 9 inch ring gear, in which the centreline of the pinion is mounted below the centreline of the ring gear. The pinion gear and the pinion bearings are assembled in a pinion retainer which is bolted to the carrier. The pinion is straddle mounted; that is, it is supported by bearings both in front of and to the rear of the pinion gear. Two opposed tapered roller bearings support the
one composite plate (steel on one side and friction material on the other) stacked on a clutch hub, and four ear guides are housed in the differential cover. Located in the differential case between the side gears is a one-piece pre-load plate and block and four calibrated preload springs, which apply an initial force to the clutch pack. Additional clutch capacity is derived from the side gear thrust loads. The four friction plates are splined to the clutch hub which in turn is splined to the left axle shaft, and the eared steel plates are dogged to the case; thus, the clutch is always engaged. OPERATION INTEGRAL CARRIER CONVENTIONAL AXLE
The rear axle drive pinion receives its power from the engine through the transmission and drive shaft. The pinion gear rotates the differential case through engagement with the ring gear, which is bolted to the case outer flange. Inside the case, there are two or four differential pinion gears mounted on the differential pinion shaft which is pinned to the case. These pinion gears are engaged with the side gears, to which the axle
RING GEAR 4209
FRICTION CLUTCH PLATES-4945
SIDE GEAR THRUST WASHER 4228
DIFFERENTIAL CASE COVER 4204
CENTER BLOCK (SHORT PINION SHAFT SEATl 4420 PRE"·LOAD SPRING PLATE-4A326 GEAR THRUST WASHER 4230 Plt~ION
@NION DIFFERENTIAL!
CLUTCH PLATE EAR GUIDES (4} 4A323
FIG. 4 -Removable Carrier Traction Lok Differential
STEEL CLUTCH PLATE S-4947
PART 4-1-REAR AXLES shafts are splined. Therefore, as the differential case turns, it rotates the axle shafts and rear wheels. When it is necessary for one wheel and axle shaft to rotate faster than the other, the faster turning side gear causes the pinions to roll on the slower turn7 ing side gear to allow differentia'! action between the two axle shafts. INTEGRAL CARRIER LIMITED SLIP AXLE
spin will occur if over acceleration is attempted. However, with the limited slip differential, when the tendency for wheel spin occurs, the friction generated between the cones and the differential case transfers the major driving force to the nonspinning wheel. In the event of continued spinning a whirring sound is produced due to over-running of the cones; such a condition or sound does not indicate failure of the unit.
When the rear wheels are under extreme unbalance tractive conditions, such as one wheel on dry road and the other in mud or ice, with the conventional differential wheel
EJ
4-5 REMOVABLE CARRIER TRACTION LOK AXLE
The clutch capacity, due to the preload springs and side gear thrust loads, resists differential action. Under normal cornering, the clutch slips as the torque generated by differential action easily overcomes the clutch torque capacity allowing normal differential action to take place. Under adverse weather conditions where one or both wheels may be on a low traction surface such as snow, ice or mud, the friction between the clutch plates will transfer a portion of the usable torque tQ the wheel with the most traction.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS GUIDE Certain rear axle and drive line trouble symptoms are also common to the engine, transmission, tyces and other parts of the car. For this reason, be sure that the cause of the trouble is in the rear axle before adjusting, repairing, or replacing any of the axle parts. REAR AXLE NOISE DIAGNOSIS Noise characteristics in a rear axle are more difficult to diagnose and repair than mechanical failures. Slight axle noise heard only at a certain speed or under remote
conditions must be considered normal. Axle noise tends to peak or be more pronounced at varying speeds and the noise is in no way a sign of trouble in the axle. Where noise is present in an objectionable form, loud and/ or at all speeds, the first effort should be made to isolate the noise. Rear axle noise is quite often confused with other noises such as tyre noise, transmission noise, driveshaft vibration and universal joint noise·. Isolation of the noise in any one unit requires skill and experience. An attempt to eliminate a slight noise may baffle even the best diag-
nostic experts. Axle noises faiJ into two basic categories: gear noise and/ or bearing noise.
GEAR NOISE Abnormal gear noise can be recognised since it produces a cycling pitch and will be very pronounced in the speed range at which it occurs, usuaiJy under drive, float, cruise or coast conditions. Gear noise tends to peak in a narrow speed range or ranges, while bear· ing noise will tend to remain constant in pitch.
REAR AXLE TROUBLE SYMPTOMS AND POSSIBLE CAUSES Since gears are in mesh, some rear axle noise is normal. However, excessive noise often indicates the beginning of other troubles in the axle.
EXCESSIVE REAR AXLE NOISE
A road test can help determine whether the noise is being caused by trouble in the rear axle or m other parts of the car. Before road· testing the car, make sure that the tyre pressures and the rear axle lubricant level are normal. Then drive the car far enough to warm the axle lubricant to its normal operating temperature. With the car stopped and the transmission in neutral, run the engine at various speeds. If the noise still exists during this test, it probably comes from the engine or the exhaust system. To determine if the noise is being caused by the rear axle or the
tyres, drive the car over several different types of road surfaces. Smooth asphalt or black-top roads minimize tyre noises. Tyre noises may be eliminated by cross-switching the tyres. Snow tyres often cause noises not heard with conventional tyres. Noise caused by a worn or damaged wheel bearing is often loudest when the car is coasting at low speeds, and it usuaiJy stops when the brakes are gently applied. To find the noisy bearing, jack up each wheel and check each bearing for roughness while the wheel is rotating. If all possible external sources of noise have been checked and eliminated, and the noise still exists, road test the rear axle under aiJ four driving conditions~rive, cruise, float, and coast. Any noise produced by the sidegears and pin-
4-6
GROUP
4-REAR AXLE
REAR AXLE TROUBLE SYMPTOMS AND POSSIBLE CAUSES (cont.) EXCESSIVE REAR AXLE NOISE
wns in the differential case will be most pronounced on turns. A continuous whine under a light load between 20 and 35 miles per hour indicates rough or brinnelled pinion bearings. If the tone of drive, coast
and ftoat noise differs with speed and if the noise is very rough and irregular; worn, rough or loose differential or pinion shaft bearings are indicated. Remove, disassemble, and inspect the axle.
EXCESSIVE REAR AXLE BACKLASH
Excessive backlash in the axle driving parts may be caused by worn axle shaft splines, loose axle shaft ftange nuts, loose U-joint ftange mountings, excessive. back-
lash between the drive pinion and ring gear, excessive backlash in the differential gears, or bearings which are worn or out of adjustment.
BEARING NOISE
DRIVE SIDE
COAST SIDE
DESIRABLE PATTERN' SHIM CORR~CT BACKLASH CORRE CT
Defective bearings will produce a whine that is constant in pitch and varies with vehicle speed. This fact will help distinguish between bearing and/ or gear noise. 1. Pinion bearing noise can be identified as a constant grinding noise. Pinion bearings are rotating at a higher speed than differential side bearings or axle shaft bearings. The noise is most noticeable at a slight pull between 18 to 26 miles per hour. 2. Wheel bearing noise may be confused with rear axle noise. To differentiate between wheel bearings and rear axle, drive the car on a smooth road at medium low speed. With traffic permitting, turn the car sharply right and left. If noise is caused by wheel bearings, the no~se will increase on the defective bearing because of side loading.
TOE
T OE
FIG. 5 -Ideal Tooth Pattern mined by the ratio and the number of teeth in the gears. The non-hunting and partial non-hunting types can be identified by marks on the pinion and ring gear teeth. See Page; 4-2 for complete identification specifications.
(a) The drive pattern should be fairly well centred on the tooth. (b) The coast pattern should be centred on the tooth but may be slightly toward the toe.
3. Side bearings will produce a constant grinding noise of a slower nature than pinion bearing, (side bearing noise cannot be determined by the wheel bearing test), but will be in the same frequency as axle shaft bearings.
GEAR TOOTH CONTACT PAnERN CHECK
FIG. 7 -Unacceptable FIG. 6 -Acceptable
Paint the gear teeth and roll a pattern as described on Page 4 -15 . After diagnosing the tooth pattern as explained here, make the appropriate adjustments as outlined in 4-17.
THE IDEAL TOOTH PAnERN
In making a final gear tooth contact pattern check, it is necessary to recognise the fact that there are three different types of gear set, hunting, non-hunting and partial non-hunting. Each type is deter-
Fig. 5 shows the ideal tooth pattern. This pattern is not a rigid standard but merely a general rule. In general, desirable tooth patterns should have the following characteristics:
Hunting Gear Pattern
Non-Hunting PatternCentre-Toe-Centre (c) Some clearance between th~> pattern and the top of the tooth is desirable. (d) There should be no hard lines where the pressure is high. The individual gear set need not conform exactly to the ideal pat-
PART 4-1-REAR AXLES tern in order to be acceptable. Characteristic differences between the three types of gear sets as well as differences between individual gear sets of the same type will result in patterns that are acceptable yet dift'erent from those shown in
4-7
DRIVE SIDE
; BACKLASH CORRECT .004 THINNER SHIM REQUIRED
I
COAST SIDE
Fig. 5
HUNTING GEAR SET In a hunting-type gear set, any one pinion gear tooth comes into contact with all drive gear teeth. In this type, several revolutions of the ring gear are required to make all possible gear combinations.
BACKLASH CORRECT' .004 THICKER SHIM REQUIRED
SHIM CORRECT DECREASE BACKLASH .004
SHIM CORRECT INCREASE BACKLASH .004
FIG.8 -Unacceptable Non-Hunting PatternCentre-Heel-Centre ACCEPTABLE PATTERN
FIG. 9 -Acceptable NonHunting Gear Set-Coast Pattern
FIG. 11-Typical Gear Tooth Contact Patterns Indicating Shim or Backlash Change tooth, the pattern is a result of the combined tooth contacts. Therefore, the pattern is uniform from tooth to tooth.
FIG. 10-Acceptable NonHunting Pattern-Uniform
FIG. 12-Pinion & Ring Gear Tooth Contact Adiustment
4-8 UNACCEPTABLE PATTERN An erratic tooth pattern on a hunting gear set indicates gear set runout and is caused by one of the following conditions: 1. Foreign matter between differential hemisphere gear locating base and back face of crown wheel. 2. Faulty gear set NON HUNTING GEAR SET In a non hunting type gear set, any <>ne pinion gear tooth comes into contact with only a few ring gear teeth . In this type, only one revolution of the ring gear is required to make all possible tooth contact combinations.
ACCEPTABLE PATTERNS The drive patterns shown in Figs. 7 and 8 were rolled on two different non-hunting type gear sets. The pattern in Fig. 7 runs from the centre toward the toe and then back to centre. The pattern in Fig. 8 runs from the tooth centre toward the heel and then back to centre. These patterns are not unusual for non-hunting gear sets and are acceptable. The pattern on any one ring gear tooth was formed by only one pinion tooth coming into contact with it. Because of this limited tooth contact, the non-hunting pattern can be more erratic than the hunting pattern and still be acceptable. Likewise, the coast pattern on a non-hunting gear set is usually less uniform tooth to tooth than it would be on a hunting gear set (Fig. 9 ). Fig. 10 shows a pattern rolled on another gear set. In this cast:, the pattern is fairly uniform from tooth to tooth.
UNACCEPTABLE PATTERN A non-hunting gear set should be checked for runout and possible replacement if the pattern runs from the tooth centre towards the toe and back to centre on some gear teeth (Fig. 7) while on other teeth of the same gear, the pattern runs from the tooth centre toward the heel and back to centre (Fig. 8). A hunting gear set showing an erratic tooth pattern could have one of the following conditions: 1. Foreign matter between differential hemisphere gear locating base and back face of crown wheel. 2. Faulty gear set. A non-hunting gear set requires a change in shimming or backlash when its pattern tends to concentrate toward the heel or toe, top or bottom of most teeth (Fig. 11).
GROUP
4-REAR AXLE
PARTIAL NON-HUNTING GEAR SET
In a partial non-hunting type gear set, any one pinion tooth comes into contact with only part of the ring gear teeth, but more than one revolution of the ring gear is required to make all possible gear tooth combinations. Tooth to tooth pattern uniformity will usually be in between the hunting and the non-hunting patterns. Partial non-hunting gear set patterns will usually be less uniform than hunting gear set patterns, but more uniform than non-hunting gear set patterns. SHIM AND BACKLASH CHANGES
The patterns shown in Fig. 11 are typical of gear sets that have either an incorrect backlash or an incorrect shim adjustment. Since each gear set rolls a characteristic pattern, the patterns in Fig. 11 should be considered as typical only and should be used as a guide rather than a rigid standard. The drive pattern is rolled on the convex side of the tooth, and the coast. pattern is rolled on the concave s1de. DRIVELINE VIBRATION
Vehicle vibration and roughness is often the result of driveline variations. Driveline disturbance vibrations are usually high frequency vibrations and are somewhat worse on acceleration, or rapid deceleration. The vibration produces a buzzing feeling, a droning condition or, as some customers describe, a "pressure noise on the eardrums". It is likely that the vibration sensation is more noticeable in the rear seat and over the driveline, than in any other area of the car. Driveline vibrations frequently originate from excessive runout of the driveline components, namely pinion companion flange, the pinion itself, driveshaft, slip yoke and transmission output shaft. Runout in these components will produce vibrations due to the fact that the components will be rotating on a centre other than the centre of balance. Unbalance of one or more of the driveline components will produce vibration. Driveline angles and the amount of deflection across the universal joints will also produce similar vibrations. LIMITED SLIP AND TRACTION LOK AXLES
When encountering complaints of
limited slip or Traction Lok cone or clutch plate chatter, the vehicle should be driven in fairly tight circles, 5 times clockwise and 5 times anti-clockwise at approximately 5 m.p.h. to allow lubricant to work in between the cone friction surfaces or clutch plates. If the chatter persists drain the lubricant, refill the axle with the specified lubricant and repeat the foregoing procedure. Should chatter still be evident dismantling of the differential for further inspection and repair will be necessary. A whirring sound due to overrunning of the cones in the integral carrier limited slip differential is no indication of unit failure. To test the Limited Slip or Traction Lok differentials for correct operation proceed as follows: 1. Raise one rear wheel and remove the wheel cover, attach Tool T65K-4204-A at the wheel nuts (Fig. 13). 2. Place the transmission in neutral. 3. Chock the front wheels. 4. Attach a torque meter of at least 200 ft. lbs. capacity to the torque check tool as in Fig. 13 and rotate the axle. NOTE: The torque required to rotate the shaft should be at least 40 ft. lbs. for Traction Lok and 50 ft. lbs. for limited slip. The initial breakaway torque may be higher than the continuous turning torque. This is normal. The axle should turn with reasonable evenness. However, the torque may vary up to 40 ft . lbs. on Traction Lok differentials. If the torque required to continuously rotate the wheel is outside specification check the differential for
FIG. 13- Limited Slip or Traction Lok Differential -Torque Check on Vehicle
PART
EJ
IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIR
REAR AXLE SHAFT, WHEEL BEARING, AND OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT REMOVABLE CAR·RIER AXLE
FIG. 14 -Removing Axle
Shaft-Typical it is nicked deeply in several places with a chisel. 5. Remove the bearing from the axle shaft with the tool shown in Fig: 16. 6. Inspect the machined surface of the axle shaft and the axle housing for rough spots or other irregularities which would affect the
--
_ ..ll.
.....
1. Remove the wheel and tyre from the brake drum. 2. Back-off the rear brake shoe adjustments. Remove the nuts that secure the brake drum to the axle flange, and then remove the drum from the flange.
3. Working through the hole provided in the axle shaft flange, remove the nuts that secure the wheel bearing retainer. Then pull the axle shaft assembly out of the axle housing (Fig. 14 ) . The brake carrier plate must not be dislodged. Install one nut to hold the plate in place after the axle shaft is removed. 4. If the rear wheel bearing is to t,e replaced, loosen the inner retainer (Fig. 15). The retainer will be : ome loose on the shafts, if
4-9
4-1-REAR AXLES
sw. ...
I
y
y
&
A
1MI-
-
ADJUSTAMI liD NUS
~ :us..&
---.
...... .......,
FIG. 16- Removing and Installing Rear Wheel Bearing ......_iii;,_ (Removable Carrier Axle only)
REMOVAL INSTALLATION
FIG. 17- Removing and Installing Axle Shaft Seal Typical (Removable Carrier Axle only) sealing action of the oil seal. Carefully remove any burrs or rough spots.
FIG. 1 5 - Removing Rear Wheel Bearing Retainer Ring -Typical
tainer seats bearing.
firmly
against
the
7. With the tool shown in Fig. 16 press a new rear wheel bearing on the axle shaft. The bearing should seat firmly against thll shoulder on the shaft.
9. If the axle shaft oil seal is to be replaced, remove and replace the seal with the tools shown in Fig. 17. Soak the new seal in light weight engine oil for A hour prior to fitting.
8. With the bearing installation tool, press the bearing inner retainer on the shaft until the re-
Coat the outside edge of seal with oil resistant sealer and sparingly lubricate lip of seal.
4-10
GROUP
10. Place a new gasket on the brake carrier plate and then slide the axle shaft into the housin~. Start the axle splines into the side gear, and push the shaft in until the bearing bottoms in the housing. 11. Install the bearing retainer and the nuts that secure it. Torque the nuts to 30-35 foot-pounds. 12. Install the brake drum and the drum retain ing· nuts. Adjust the brakes. 13. Install the wheel and tyre on the drum.
INTEGRAL CARRIER AXLE REMOVAL OF AXLE SHAFT FROM AXLE HOUSING . (Brake drums removed) Remove the clamping plate and pull the shaft from the housing. The UNIT TYPE BEARING cup will normally stay in place in the axle housing when the axle shaft is removed. The bearing cup can be removed from the axle housing by using a standard slide - hammer type puller as in Fig. 14.
UNIT BEARING RIB RING MOUNTED TOWARD AXLE FLANGE
FIG. 1 8 -Seal and Unit Type Bearing Installation The UNIT TYPE BEARING cone assembly should not be pulled from the axle shaft unless : 1. The seal is to be replaced. 2. The clamping plate has to be replaced due to damage or distortion. 3. The bearing is to be replaced. The bearing cone assembly should have all parts completely covered with rear axle oil prior to reinstallation into the axle housing. Also apply oil to the seal seat on the shaft. Installation of Axle Shaft in Axle Housing 1. Install the bearing cup in the axle housing, ensure that the cup back face is seated against
4-REAR AXLE
the backing shoulder in the housing. 2. Care should be taken when installing the axle shaft to avoid seal damage. Start the splined end of the shaft into the differential and start the cup rib ring and seal into the housing. 3. Line up the clamping plate to the clamping plate bolts and push the axle into the housing as far as possible. 4. Start the nuts onto the clamping plate bolts and tighten to finger tight only. Then tighten all nuts to approximately 15 ft. pounds torque. The nuts should be tightened in such a manner to assure that the seal and cup rib ring are drawn evenly against the cup in the housing. The final tightening of the nuts should be done with a torque wrench to 30-35 ft. pounds. REAR AXLE BEARINGREMOVE AND INSTALL To Remove I. Retaining collar removal. The retaining collar can be easily removed by drilling a !" hole in the outside diameter of the collar to a depth approximately three-quarter the thickness of the collar. Do not drill all the way through the collar as the drill could damage the axle shaft. After drilling the retaining collar, position a chisel across the drilled hole and strike sharply to break the collar. NOTE - Backing collars are not reuseable after having once been installed and must be scrapped after removal even if some removal method is used which does not cause obvious damage to the collar. 2. Slide the clamping plate and seal toward the axle flange. 3. Position the guillotine type puller jaws (tool no. XYTC 1225) behind the bearing cone face, ensure that the jaws do not touch the seal seat. Install the axle with guillotine jaws in position into the guillotine jaw retainer tool - Remove the bearing. NOTE - Do not heat or cut the bearing assembly as damage to the axle shaft will result. To Inst31l I. When installing new bearings,
FIG. 19- Tool for Bearing Removal 2.
3.
4.
5.
new seals and retaining collars must be used. Check the clamping plate for damage or distortion with a straight edge. If the plate is distorted, replace it. Clean the axle shaft, ensure that there are no burrs or nicks on the bearing seat, cone backing shoulder and chamfer leading to the seal seat. Sharp edges or nicks on the chamfer leading to the seal will damage the seal lips duririg installation of the seal on the shaft. To avoid damage to the wheel studs, place the axle shaft flange face on a support. Install the clamping plate on the axle shaft, ensure that it is positioned with the clamping face of the plate toward the bearing. Apply grease to the cavity between the seal lips and carefully slide seal into position on the seal seat. When installed the outer face of the seal must be toward the axle flange. Do not push the seal onto the rough surfaced portion of the seal seat.
6. The new UNIT TYPE BEARING must be lubricated prior to installation. Do not wash a new bearing prior to installation. The new UNIT TYPE BEARING has a protective grease which provides initial lubrication until the re.a r axle lubricating oil reaches the bearing. If the new bearing has to be washed for any reason, it must then be completely lubricated with rear axle oil prior to installation. 7. Place the lubricated UNIT TYPE BEARING on the axle shaft ensuring the cup rib ring is facing toward the axle flange.
8. Install new retaining collar on the axle shaft and allow it to rest on the UNIT BEARING cone assembly (Fig. 20). 9. Press the UNIT TYPE BEARING and the retaining collar on to the axle shaft simul" taneously using an installation tube. Apply sufficient load to assure the proper seating of all parts. Check for proper seating of the bearing cone assembly against the shaft shoulder and the backing collar against the cone face by using feeler gauges. NOTE - When pressing the bearing and retaining collar on the axle shaft, be sure all faces of the installation tubes are square, parallel and free from any burrs. Installing the retaining collar in a skewed manner can reduce its holding ability by as much as 50 per cent. 10. Install axle shaft assembly into axle housing as detailed on page 4 ·10.
FIG. 20- Axle Shaft Bearing and Seal Installation DRIVE PINION OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT Synthetic seals must not be cleaned, soaked or washed in cleaning solvents. 1. Loosen, but do not remove the carrier casting rear cover to drain the lubricant. 2. Disconnect the drive shaft from the drive pinion flange
PART 4-1-REAR AXLES
4-11
after marking the drive shaft and pinion flange to ensure correct positioning on reassembly (Fig. 28.)
tial carrier assembly from the axle housing. 1. Raise the vehicle and install safety stands. Remove both rear wheels and brake drums. 2. Make scribe marks on the drive shaft end yoke and the axle U-joint flange to insure proper position of the drive shaft at assembly. (Fig. 28). Disconnect the drive shaft from the axle U-joint flange. Be careful to avoid dropping the loose universal joint bearing cups. Hold the cups on the spider with tape. Mark the cups so that they will be in their original position in relation to the flange when they are assembled. Remove the drive shaft from the transmission extension housing. Install an oil seal replacer tool in the transmission extension housing to prevent transmission fluid leakage.
3. Hold the flange with the tool shown in Fig. 21 . Remove the pinion shaft nut and spring washer. 4. Mark the end of the pinion shaft and the pinion flange splines for realign· ment. 5. Clean the pinion bearing retainer around the oil seal. 6. Remove the pinion flange with the tool shown in Fig. 22 . 7. Remove the pinion oil seal. R. Check the spline11 on the pinion shaft and pinion flange for burrs and if nece88ary clean up with fine crocus cloth. Wipe the flange and shaft clean. 9. Clean the oil seal seat. The lubri. cant return passage ~ust be clear. 10. Coat the outer edge of the new seal with oil resistant sealer, and install the seal, using the tool shown in Fig. 23. II. Align the pinion flang~; spline mark with the pinion shaft spline mark, and install the flange with a smear of lubricant on the splines. 12. Align the marks on the drive shaft and the pinion flange and install the drive shaft. 13. Install a new gasket under the carrier casting rear cover and install the cover bolts. 14. Torque the rear cover bolts to 20-25 foot-pounds. 15. Fill the axle with new lubricant to 1" below filler plug.
3. Install an in-lb torque wrench on the pinion nut. Record the torque required to maintain rotation of the pinion shaft through several revolutions. 4. Scribe the pinion shaft and the U-joint flange inner surface for assembly realignment. (Fig. 28). While holding the flange (Fig. 21), remove the integral pinion nut and washer. 5. Clean the pinion bearing retainer around the oil seal. Place a
FIG. 21 -Typical Drive Pinion Shaft Nut Removal DRIVE PINION OIL SEAL OR FLANGE REPLACEMENT REMOVABLE CARRIER WITH COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
Synthetic seals must not be cleaned, soaked or washed in cleaning solvent. The drive pinion oil seal can be replaced without removing the differen-
FIG. 22 -Typical Drive Pinion Flange Removal
4-12
GROUP
4-REAR AXLE
drain pan under the seal, or raise the front of the vehicle higher than the rear.
ly, until an additional preload of 8 to 14 in-lb over the original reading is reached. The preload should not exceed 8 to 14 in-lb over the original reading, or bearing failure may result. Under no circumstances should the pinion nut be backed off tO> lessen preload. If this is done, a new pinion bearing spacer must be installed. In addition, the U-joint flange must never be hammered on, or pneumatic tools used. 17. Remove the oil seal replacer tool from the transmission extension housing. Install the front end of the drive shaft on the transmission output shaft.
6. Remove the U-joint flange. 1. Remove the drive pinion oil seal. 8. Clean the oil seal seat.
9. Install the new seal in the retainer. Fig. 23.
FIG. 26 -Typical Drive
Pinion Flange Seal Installation
19. Check the lubricant level. Make sure the axle is in running position. Add whatever amount of specified lubricant is required to reach the lower edge of the filler plug hole.
FIG. 23-Typical Drive Pinion Flange Seal Installation
CARRIER ASSEMBLY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
FIG. 27 -Checking Pinion Bearing Pre-load
FIG. 24-U-ioint Flange
Holding Tool
FIG. 25-Removing
U-joint Flange
18. Connect the rear end of the drive shaft to the axle U-joint flange, aligning the scribe marks made on the drive shaft end yoke and the axle U-joint flange. (Fig. 28).
10. Check splines on the pinion shaft to be sure they are free of burrs. If burrs are evident, remove them by using a fine crocus cloth, working in a rotational motion. Wipe the pinion shaft clean. 11. Apply a small amount of lubricant to U-joint sp~ines. Align scribe marks on U-joint flange and pinion shaft. 12. Install the U-joint flange. 13. Install a new integral nut and washer on the pinion shaft. (Apply a small amount of lubricant on the washer side of the nut). 14. Whilst holding the flange tighten the nut. (Fig. 21). 15. Tighten the pinion shaft nut, rotating the pinion occasionally to ensure proper bearing seating, and take frequent preload readings until the preload is at the original recorded reading established in step 3. 16. After original preload has been reached, tighten the pinion nut slow-
REMOVAL 1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist and remove the two rear wheel and tyre assemblies.
2. Remove the two brake drums (3 Tinnerman nuts at each drum) from the axle shaft flange studs. If difficulty ·is experienced in removing the drums, back off the brake shoes. 3. Working through the hole provided in each axle shaft flange, remove the nuts that secure the rear wheel bearing retainer plate. Pull each axle shaft assembly out of the axle housing (Fig. 14). Care must be exercised to prevent damage to the production-type synthetic oil seal, if so equipped. Any roughing or cutting of the seal element during removal or installation can result in early seal failure. Install a nut on one of the brake backing plate retaining bolts to hold the plate to the axle housing after the shaft has been removed. 4. Make scribe marks on the drive shaft end yoke and the axle U-joint flange to ensure proper position at assembly. Disconnect the drive shaft at the rear axle U-joint, remove the drive shaft from the transmission ex-
PART 4-1-REAR AXLE OVERHAUL tension housing. Install an oil seal replacer tool in the housing to prevent transmission leakage.
housing. Install the copper washers and the carrier-to-housing retaining nuts, and torque to specification.
5. Place a drain pan under the carrier and housing, remove the carrier retaining nuts, and drain the axle. Remove the carrier assembly from the axle housing.
3. Remove the oil seal replacer tool from the transmission extension housing. Position the drive shaft so that the front U-joint slip yoke splines to the transmission output shaft.
INSTALLATION
1. Clean the axle housing and shafts using k~rosene and swabs. To avoid contamination of the grease in the sealed ball bearings, do not allow any quantity of solvent directly on the wheel bearings. Clean the mating surfaces of the axle housing and carrier. 2. Position the differential carrier on the studs in the axle housing using a new gasket between carrier and
4. Connect the drive shaft to the axle U-joint flange, aligning the scribe marks made on the drive shaft end yoke and the axle U-joint flange during the removal procedure (Fig. 28). Install the U-bolts and nuts and torque to -specification. 5. Install the two axle shaft assemblies in the axle housing. Care must be exercised to prevent damage to the oil seals. The shorter shaft goes into the left side of the housing.
4-13
When installing an axle shaft, place a new gasket on each side of the brake backing plate and carefully slide the axle shaft into the housing so that the rough forging of the shaft will not damage the oil seal. Start the axle splines into the differential side gear, and push the shaft in until the bearing bottoms in the housing. 6. Instail the bearing retainers on the attaching bolts on the axle housing flanges. Install the nuts on the bolts and torque to specification. 7. Install the two rear brake drums and the drum retaining (Tinnerman) nuts. 8. Install the rear wheel and tyre assemblies. 9. If the rear brake shoe were backed off, adjust the brakes. 10. Fill the rear axle with specified lubricant.
4-14
PART 4·2
REAR AXLE OVERHAUL
Section 1 Removal and Installation of Rear Axle Housing-All .. 2 Differential Assembly OverhaulIntegral Carrier Conventional
0
Page 4-14
4-15
Section Differential Assembly OverhaulIntegral Carrier Limited Slip Differential Differential Assembly Overhaul-Removable Carrier Traction Lok Axle
Page 4-20 4- 20
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF REAR AXLE HOUSINGS-ALL
REMOVAL 1. Raise the car and support it on the underbody
10. If the old drive pinion and differential case assemblies are to be installed in a new housing, refer to Page 4-15 for removal and installation procedures.
2. Place r.he brake carrier plates in their normal position on the axle housing. Use ·new gaskets on each side of the brake carrier plates. 3. Install the axle shafts, brake drums and . wheels.
2. Loosen the carrier casting rear cover and drain the lubricant. Discard the old lubricant. 3. Disconnect the drive shaft at the drive pinion flange (Fig. 28 ).
4. Attach the hydraulic brake line 'T' fitting to the axle housing, and secure the hydraulic brake line in its retainer on the axle housing.
4. Disconnect the shock absorbers at the axle housing.
5. Raise the axle housing and connect the shock absorbers.
5. Remove both axle shafts using the procedure given on Page 4-9.
FIG. 28 -Drive Shaft to Drive Pinion Flange Connection INSTALLATION
8. Remove the hydraulic brake 'T' connection from the axle housing. Do not open the hydraulic brake system lines. Remove the hydraulic brake line from its retaininc clip on the axle housing.
1. Raise the axle housing into position so that the spring clip plates can be installed.
7. Remove both brake carrier plates from the axle housing and suspend thern above the housing with mech•nics' wire. The hydraulic brake lines and the parking brake cables ar~ still attached to the brake carrier plates. 8. Support the rear axle hous-
ine on a jack, and then remove the spring clip nuts. clip plates.
~move
the spring
9. Lower the axle housing and remove it from under the car.
FIG. 29-Rear Axle Installation
6. Connect the drive shaft at the drive pinion shaft. 7. Fm the axle with the proper grade and amount of lubricant to i" beiow filler plug. 8. Road test the car.
PART 4-2-REAR AXLE OVERHAUL
EJ
Dl FFERENTIAL ASSEMBLy OVERHAUL
INSPECTION BEFORE REMOVAL The differential case assembly &nd the drive pinion should be inspected before they are removed from the housing. These inspections can help to find the cause of the trouble and to determine the corrections needed. Wipe the lubricant from the internal working parts, and visually inspect the parts for wear or damage. Rotate the gears to see if there is any roughness which would indicate defective bearings or chipped gears. Check the gear teeth fc1· scoring or signs of abnormal wear.
4-15
INTEGRAL CARRIER CONVENTIONAL
tween the teeth. Wrap a cloth around the drive pinion flange to act as a brake. Rotate the drive gear back and forth (use a box wrench in the drive gear attaching bolts for a lever) until a clear tooth contact pattern is obtained. Certain types of gear tooth contact patterns on the drive gear indicate incorrect adjustment. Noise caused by incorrect adjustment can often be corrected by re-adjusting the gears. Typical patterns and the recessary corrections ar~ explained on page 4-6
Under no circumstances should the carrier be spread more than .020 inch. 3. If the differential bearings arc to be removed use the tools shown in Fig. 33 to remove the old bearings and install the new bearings in a press using replacer tool 4221A-B Fig. 34. 4. Remove the bolts that attach t.he drive gear to the differential t::ase. Press the drive gear from the case or tap it off with a soft-faced hammer.
Gear tooth r:unout can !lometimes be detected by an erratic pattern on the teeth. However, a rlial indicator should be used to measure the runout of the back face of the drive gear, as shown in Fig 31 This runout should not exceed .005 mch. DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING AND DRIVE PINION REMOVAL 1. Remove the differential bearing cap bolts and bearing caps.
2. Use a spreader (Tool 4010-A, Fig 32) to facilitate the removal of the differential housing and bearing cups (see paragraph of "Installation: Differential Bearing Preload" for spreader details).
FIG. 32 -Differential FIG. 30-Ring Gear
Housing Spreader
Backlash Check 5. With a drift, drive out the differential pinion shaft retainer pin.
Check the differential case and the drive pinion for end play. Set up dial indicator (Fig. 30) and check points around drive gear. Backlash should be .005 to .007 inch at tightest point. obvious defect is noted, check the gear tooth contact. Paint the gear teeth with suitable gear marking compound, such as a paste made with dry red lead and a little 11i!. A mixture that is too wet will run and ~mear. Too dry a mixture cannot be pressed out from be-
6. Drive out the differential pinion shaft with a drift. 7. Use a soft drift to separate the two piece differential case. Drive apart through the axle bore onto one differential wheel (See Fig. 35).
If no
FIG. 31-Ring Gear Runout
Check
8. Remove the differential side gear differential pinions and washers.
GROUP 4-REAR AXLE
4-16 9. Hold the drive pinion flange and remove the pinion nut (Refer Fig. 21 ). Remove the spring washer.
10. Remove the pinion flange (Page 4-11 Fig. 22.)
11. With a soft-faced hammer, drive the pinion out of the front bearing cone and remove it through the rear of the carrier casting.
12. Drive against the pinion front bearing cone, and drive the
their bores. If a 0.0015 inch feeler gauge can be inserted between a cup and the bottom of its bore at any point around the cup, the cup is not properly seated. 14. Remove the pinion bearing cone (See Fig. 38 ).
rear
Wear on the hub of the difl'erential wheel can cause a "chucking" noise known as "chuckle" when the car is driven at low speeds. Wear of splines, thrust surfaces, or thrust washers can contribute to excessive drive line backlash. BEARING CUPS
INSPECTION AFTER REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY
Thoroughly clean all parts. Always use new solvent when cleaning bearings. Oil the bearings immediately to prevent rusting. Inspect the parts for any major defects. Clean the inside of th~ housing before rebuilding and installing the parts. Inspect individual parts as outlined below.
GEARS The pattern taken during disassembly should help in judging if gears can be reused. Worn gears cannot be rebuilt to correct a noisy
Check bearing q~ps for rings, scores, galling, or erratic wear patterns. Pinion bearing cups must be solidly seated. Check by attempting to insert a 0.0015 inch feeler between these cups and the bottom of their bores. CONE AND ROLLER ASSEMBLIES When operated in the cups, bearing rollers must turn without roughness. Examine the roller ends for wear. Step-wear on the roller ends indicates the bearings were not preloaded properly or the rollers were slightly misaligned. DRIVE PINION FLANGE Be sure that the ears of the flange have not been damaged in removing the drive shaft or in removing the flange from the pinion. The end of the flange that contacts the bearing cone must be smooth. Polish this face if necessary. aggravates backlash Roughness noises and causes wear of the flange with a resultant loss in pinion bearing preload.
FIG. 33 -Differential
Bearing Removal
CARRIER CASTING Make sure that the difl'erential bearing bores are smooth and the bearing abutment faces are not damaged.
EI478·A
FIG. 34-Differential
Bearing Installation pinion flange seal and the bearing cone out of the carrier casting. 13. If the pinion bearings cups are to be replaced, drive them out of the carrier casting with a drift. Install the new cups with the tools 4615HF and 4625HR. Make sure the cups are properly seated in
FIG. 35-Separatlng
Differential Assembly
DIFFERENTIAL CASE
condition. Gear scoring is the result of excessive shock loading or the use of an incorrect lubricant. Scored gears cannot be reused.
Carefully examine the case hubs, which may have been damaged when the bearings were removed. The bearing assemblies will fail if they· do not seat firmly on the hubs.
Examine the teeth and thrust surfaces of the difl'erential gears.
Check the fit of the difl'erential wheel hubs in the case.
PART ASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION DRIVE PINION SHIM SELECTION The operating positions of the gears require the use of an adjusting shim between the pinion rear bearing cone and the pinion gear (Page 4-7, Fig. 12). When the shim thickness is decreased, the pinion gear is moved away from the drive gear. When the shim thickness is increased, the pinion is moved closer to the drive gear. Manufacturing objectives are to make axles with a gear mounting
4-2-REAR AXLE OVERHAUL
drive gear, i.e. a washer this amount thinner must be used. A negative (e.g. - .002") marking means that a washer this size thicker must be used. A zero marking indicates that the washer selected with the gauge is the correct one for this carrier I piniOn combination. Position washers are available: .002" increments from .084" to .100". 4. Remove the tools from the carrier.
4-17
pulled into the front bearing cone and into the flange. 8. As soon as there is on the bearings, turn the shaft in both directions times to seat the bearing Tighten nut to 240 lb./ft. iminimum).
preload pinion several rollers. torque
DRIVE PINION ASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION 1. Place the shim and pinion rear bearing cone on the pinion shaft. Press the bearing and shim firmly against the pinion shaft shoulder ( Fig. 38 ) . 2. Position drive pinion in carrier and install the original preload washer (chamfered side toward shoulder). 3. Lubricate the pinion rear bearing with axle lubricant. 4. Lubricate the pm10n front bearing cone and place it in the housing. 5. Coat the outside edge of a new oil seal with gasket cement, and install it in the carrier casting. 6. Insert the drive pinion shaft flange into the seal and hold it firmly against the pm10n front bearing cone. From the rear of the carrier casting, insert the pinion shaft into the flange. 7. Place the spring washer on the p1mon shaft (concave side against flange) and start the nut. Hold the flange with the tool shown in Fig. 21 , and tighten the pinion shaft nut. As the pinion shaft nut ia tightened, the pinion shaft is
FIG. 37 -Drive Pinion Washer Selection Tool 9. Measure the preload with the tool shown in Fig. 39 . With the nose of the carrier up, and the handle of the wrench floating, take readings with wrench moving through several full turns. The correct preload is 15 to 30 lb. in. including oil seal drag. Correct any binding condition (usually caused by dirt or a faulty bearing). If the preload is not in the specified range, use a thinner preload washer to increase preload, and a thicker washer to decrease preload. 10. Remove the pinion and spacers from the carrier in readiness for establishing differential case bearing preloads. GEAfl SET IDENTIFICATION
FIG. 36-Drive Pinion and Ring Gear Marking
4-18
GROUP 4-REAR AXLE
DIFFERENTIAL CASE ASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION
8. Use the lock pin to locate the two parts of the differential case, and press them together.
hole, with the dial indicator plunger in contact with the opposite side of the carrier opening.
ASSEMBLY
9. Place the drive gear on the differential case and install the bolts. Torque the bolts to 40-50 lb. /ft.
5. Use the spreader to expand the case until the differential assembly with bearings and selected spacers will fit into the carrier. A spread of .010" to .012" is usually sufficient UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD THE CARRIER BE SPREAD MORE THAN .020".
1. Lubricate all the differential parts with the recommended rear axle hypoid lubricant, before they are installed.
INSTALLATION
2. Install a side gear with thrust washer in the larger part of the differential case.
DIFFERENTIAL BEARING PRELOAD
8. Place thrust washers on both differential pinions and mesh the pinions with the differential side gear in the larger part of the differential housing, having the pinions 180 deg. apart.
1. Select any two spacer washers and place one against each of the ditferential bearing cups. Place the cups on the bearing cones and install the differential assembly in the carrier. When installed, there should be a small amount of end play.
4. Rotate the gears to align the pinions and washers with the shaft holes in the case. 5. Install the pinion shaft with care not to damage the thrust washers and to have the hole in the shaft aligned with the lock pin hole in the case. 6. Assemblies fitted with four pinion differentials must have the differential block fitted to the p:nion shaft between the differential pinions. The differential half-shafts and the additional two 'pinions are then fitted.
7. Install the remaining gear with thrust washer, in the small part of the differential case.
2. With the differential held firmly against one side of the carrier, use a feeler gauge on each side of the centre line of the case to measure the end play oetween the cup and the spacer. (See Fig. 40 ). Rotate the carrier to seat the bearing with the feeler gauges in position, and check to see that the end play has not been increased by this procedure. Assuming two .258" spacers were used, and .012" feeler gauges were needed to eliminate the end play, then two .264" spacers would also produce zero end play. (i.e . .258" + .012"/2). 3. Tentatively select spacers which will increase the total spacer thickness. .004" (i.e. increase the spacer on each side .002", e.g. each spacer becomes .266"). 4. Fit the carrier spreader adaptors Fig. 41 and the spreader to the carrier, together with a dial indicator Fig. 42, positioned over the carrier differential opening, as close as possible to the centre line of the axle shafts. This may be done by using a pilot stud screwed into the side bearing lower stud
6. The differential assembly, with bearing cups and the selected spacers held against the bearing cones, may now be fitted to the carrier, first removing the dial indicator. 7. Release spreader tool.
and
remove
the
8. Fit the bearing caps, tightening the bolts to 35-45 lb. !'t. torque. Note that the caps are identified by a brand on the side of the cap and on the carrier. The caps MUST be replaced in their original positions, as they are not interchangable. 9. Rotate the differential assembly at least six times to seat the bearing rollers. 10. Check the preload by measuring with a spring balance the tension in a string wrapped around the differential case on the larger diameter (6.12") just behind the drive gear ( Fig. 43 ) . Minimum balance reading must be 3.3 lbs., maximum 6.5 lbs. (equals 10 to 20 lb. in preload torque). 11. Remove the assembly from the carrier, using the spreader. I! the preload is correct, tie the selected spacers to the bearing cups to have them available for use in determining gear backlash. If the preload is incorrect, select larger or smaller spacers to increase or decrease preload, then repeat steps 4 to 11.
DRIVE GEAR AND PINION BACKLASH 1. Install the pinion in the carrier in accordance with the procedure of paragraphs 1-9 of Drive Pinion Assembly and Installation.
FIG. 38 -Drive Pinion
Bearing Removal and Installation
FIG. 39 -Drive Pinion
Preload Check
2. Install the differential assembly with the tentatively selected spacers in the carrier, following
PART 4-2-REAR AXLE OVERHAUL the procedure in Differential Installation 4•18. 3. Measure the backlash shown in Fig.26. Measure the backlash on several teeth around the drive gear to· find the minimum position. Backlash here should be .005 to .007''. If the backlash . is not within this range, dee:rease the thickness of one differential bearing spacer and increase the other by the same amount. The amount of change of each spacer is very approximately equal to the amount of change required to correct the backlash reading. It is most important that the total thickness of both spacers be the same after backlash adjustment as before, so that correct preload is retained.
4-19
2. Increasing backlash moves the drive gear away from the pinion: (a) Drive pattern moves slightly higher and toward the heel. (b) Coast pattern moves higher and toward the heel. 3. Thicker shim with the backlash constant moves the pinion closer to the drive gear: (a) Drive pattern moves deeper on the tooth (ftank contact) and slightly toward the toe. (b) Coast pattern moves deeper on the tooth and toward the heel. 4. Thinner shim with the backlash constant moves the pinion further from the drive gear:
GEAR TOOTH CONTACT PATTERN CHECK
FIG. 42 -Dial Indicator Paint the gear teeth and take a contact pattern as described in "Diagnosis and Testing", Page 4-7, Fig. 11, shows some drive and coast patterns and indicates changes required to obtain the correct operating position of the gears. The movement 'of tooth contact patterns with changes in gear locations can be summarised as follows:
Position for Checking Carrier Spread
1. Decreasing backlash moves the drive gear closer to the pinion:
4. Fill the axle with the proper grade of lubricant. The lubricant level is 1" below the bottom of the filler plug hole with the axle in normal running position.
2. Install the cover and a new gasket on the carrier casting rear face. 3. Torque the cover bolts to 2025 foot-pounds.
FIG. 41 -Carrier Spreader
Adaptors (a) Drive pattern moves toward
Replace axle housing vehicle, refer 4-14 .
assy. in
the top of the tooth (face contact) and toward the heel. (b) Coast pattern moves toward the top of the tooth and slightly tcward the toe. If the patterns are not correct, make the changes as indicated.
FIG. 40 -Bearing Cup to Spacer End Play Check
When the pattern is correct, remove the marking compound from the gear teeth. Regardless of all previous measurements and other factors, the tooth contact pattern must be correct for successful rear ax!e operation.
(a) Drive pattern (convex side of gear) moves slightly lower and toward the toe.
AXLE SHAFT, DRIVE SHAFT AND REAR COVER INSTALLATION
(b) Coast pattern (concave side of gear) moves lower and toward the toe.
1. Install the axle shafts. Refer to Page 4HO for proper procedure.
FIG. 43 -Ring Gear Bearing Preload Check
4-20 INTEGRAL CARRIER LIMITED SLIP
The removal and installation procedure, ring gear and pinion settings, tooth markings and overhaul procedure for the limited slip differential are the same as for the conventional axle, except for servicing the internal components of the differential assembly. DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY DISASSEMBLY
1. Place the assembly in a vice equipped with copper jaws. 2. Remove the differential cover to cap attaching bolts and lift off the cover. 3. Remove the cone, side gear, thrust block, thrust springs, pinion shaft and gears. 4. Remove the remaining thrust block, side gear and cone. 5. Withdraw the pinion shaft dowel from the case. 6. Remove the cones from the cap and differential cover, if they have remained with their respective mating parts. NOTE: To ensure that the cones are not interchanged during reassembly, mark the cone and the corresponding side of the differential case with a daub of paint. Also check for any shims which may be fitted between the cones and side gears. INSPECTION AFTER REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY
Thoroughly clean and dry all parts and inspect for the following: 1. The cone seats in the cap and cover should be smooth and free of any excessive scoring. Slight grooves or scratches are permissible and normal. 2. The land surfaces of the cones will duplicate the case surface condition. Excessive wear or damaged cone surfaces will necessitate renewal of the cone and casing. 3. Inspect thrust springs for damage and comparitive free-length. Replace where necessary. 4. Check the thrust blocks for excessive wear.
GROUP 4-REAR AXLE 1. Clamp tool T65K-4204-A or an axle shaft in a vice with approximately 3 inches extending above the vice jaws. 2. Place the cap side of the differential case over the extended tool or axle shaft spline with the interior facing upward. 3. Install the cone (as identified in item 6 of disassembly procedure), over the splines, seating it in position in the cap; followed by a shim (if originally fitted) and the side gear. 4. Place a thrust block on the side gear with the cut outs in line with the pinion shaft groove in the case. 5. Install the pinion shaft, pinions and thrust washers. Position the shaft so that the dowel hole is in line with the hole in the cap, and install the dowel. 6. Install the thrust springs and place the second thrust block over the springs. 7. Place the remaining side gear on the thrust block. 8. Install a shim (if originally fitted) on the side gear and place the cone on top. 9. Install the differential cover over the cone, making sure the matched stampings on both halves of the case are in line. 10. Install two attaching bolts in opposite holes and tighten finger tight. 11. Install the remaining part of tool T65K-4204-A with adaptor spline, or an axle shaft through the differential cover, rotating the tool to enter the cone splines and then the side gear splines. Leaving the tool in this position install the remaining bolts and tighten evenly to 21-26 lbs. ft. 12. Remove the tools or axle shaft from the assembly.
ASSEMBLY
NOTE: When assembling the unit use tool T65K-4204-A with spline adaptors or axle shafts·as a mounting to ensure correct alignment of the side gear and cone splines. Attempting to force the axle shafts through misaligned splines will result in damage to the spring thrust blocks.
FIG. 44 -Limited Slip or Traction Lok Differential -Torque Check on Diff. Assembly Removed
NOTE: If the tool or axle shaft binds in the spline a light tap with a hammer may be necessary. Mter the unit has been assembled into the housing, do not attempt to rotate one axle shaft until the other shaft is in position. Rotation of one axle shaft without the other shaft installed will result in misalignment of cone and side gear splines and prevent entry of the second axle shaft. "On car" type wheel balances are not recommended for use on the rear wheels of cars fitted with Limited Slip or Traction Lok differentials. One rear wheel will drive if in contact with the ground when the opposite wheel is raised. The torque required to turn the side gears and cones prior to assembling the differential to the axle housing is 50 lb. ft. minimum. This figure can be checked using tool T65K-4204-A as illustrated in Fig. 44. If under this test the torque is below the specified 50 lbs. ft. it may be adjusted by altering the shims between the side gears and cones. Two shims of 0.005 and 0.010 inches thick are available for this purpose. REMOVABLE CARRIER TRACTION LOK AXLE OVERHAUL PROCEDURES
Mter removing the carrier from the axle housing as described in Part 4- 2 mount the carrier in a holding fixture. Then disassemble the carrier as outlined in the following procedures. REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY OF DIFFERENTIAL CASE
1. Mark one differential bearing cap and the mating bearing support with punch marks to help position the parts properly during assembly of the carrier. Also, mark one of the bearing adjusting nuts and the carrier with scribe marks for proper location during assembly. 2. Remove the adjusting nut locks, bearing caps, and adjusting nuts. Then lift the differential assembly out of the carrier. 3. If the differential bearings are to be removed, use the tool shown in Fig. 46.
4. Mark the differential case, cover, and ring gear for assembly in the original position. 5. Remove ten bolts securing the ring gear to the differential case
P.ART 4-2-REAR AXLE OVERHAUL assembly. The ring gear must be removed in order to separate the case halves. 6. Remove the ring gear by tapping the gear with a soft hammer or press the gear from the case. 7. Place the differential case in a press to load the case at the bearing journals so that the pre-load of the springs is overcome (approx. 1,500 lbs.). (If a press is not available, two 7/16" bolts and nuts can be used in the ring gear mounting holes (one on each side) to compress the case halves together and overcome pre-load spring tension.) Then, while the case is still under pressure, loosen the two Allen or Phillips head screws which hold the case halves together until one or two threads of the screws remain engaged. Remove the case assembly from the press. Tap on the cover to spring it loose; then, remove both screws. 8. With the cover facing down, lift off the case. Remove the pre-load spring plate and four pre-load springs. 9. From the cover remove the side gear, four clutch plate ear guides, clutch hub, friction and steel clutch plates and shim(s). 10. With a suitable drift, drive out
4-21
FIG. 47 -Removing
Differential Pinion Shaft Lock Pin
FIG. 46 -Differential
Bearing Removal the pinion shaft lock pins from the case (Fig. 47 ). 11. With a brass drift, drive out the long pinion shaft from the case. Drive from the end opposite the lock
pin hole ( Fig. 48). 12. Remove the two short pinion shafts using a drift, driving each shaft from the centre outward. Lift out the centre block, then remove the pinion gears, thrust washers and side gear and thrust washer. 13. If the differential bearings are removed, the bearing~ can be installed in one of the following ways: a. With the differential case and cover completely assembled.
DIFFERENTIAL COVER
\ SIDE
DIFFERENTIAL CAP DIFFERENTIAL BOLTS
I /
THRUST WASHER
THRUST BLOCK
PINION SHAFT DOWEL
FIG. 45 - Integral Carrier Limited Slip Differential
4-22
GROUP
4-REAR AXLE
FIG. 48- Driving Out Differential Pinion Shaft DIFFERENTIAL BEARING
b. On the case or cover when disassembled. However, when pressing the bearing on the cover, a block of wood or fibre must be used as shown in Fig. 49 in order to avoid damage to the cover. ASSEMBLY 1. Lubricate all parts with ESWM2C-119-A locker lubricant during assembly. 2. Mount the differential case in a soft jawed vice and place a side gear thrust washer and side gear in the counterbore of the case. 3. Install the pinion thrust washers and place the pinion gears on the side gear aligning the holes in the washers and gears with the holes in the case. 4. Install the centre block so that the shaft holes are aligned with the holes in the pinion gears and case. The centre block has two machined sides and two rough sides. 5. With a brass drift, drive in the long pinion shaft from the outside of the case aligning the lock pin holes in the shaft with the holes in the case. The centre block should be positioned so the long shaft is driven through the rough side and short shafts driven through the machined side (Fig. 50). 6. With a suitable drift, install the shaft lock pins. Make sure the pinion and side gears move freely. 7. Place the four pre-load springs in the holes provided in the centre block. 8. Position a pre-load plate over the four springs, making sure the springs are properly seated. The preload plate straddles the centre block over its narrower or machined width. 9. Mount the differential cover in a soft jawed vice or holding fixture. 10. Insert shim(s) of 0.050 total thickness in the cover cavity. 11. When new clutch plates are used, soak the plates in ESW-
FIG. 49-lnstalling Differential Bearing Traction Lok
PRELOAD SPRINGS
FIG. 50 - Center Block and Pre Load Springs Installation
PART 4-2-REAR AXLE OVERHAUL M2C-119-A lubricant for approximately 30 minutes before installation. 12. Place the clutch hub with the clutch plates into the clutch ear cavities in the differential cover. Make sore that the splines on the last friction plate are engaged on the hub. 13. Obtain locally a i" x 2!" or -&" x 2!" bolt, nut and two lt" outside diameter flat washers approx. i • in thickness. These parts are required to compress the clutch pack in order to obtain the proper shim selection (Fig. 51). Install a flat washer on the bolt, and place the bolt through the clutch hub. Hold the bolt in position and turn the cover over. Place a flat washer on the bolt and then install the nut. Be sure the washers are centred, and torque the nut 10 to 15 lb. ft. (Fig. 52). 14. Place the shim template tool (T68P-4946-A) in the clutch hub (Fig. 52). Some clearance should be observed between the shim tool and the cover-to-case mating surface.
DIFFERENTIAL COVE
Using a feeler gauge, determine the exact amount of clearance.
Refer to the shim pack thickness chart which will indicate the correct amount of shim(s) to subtract from the 0. 050 shim originally installed. In order to correctly select the proper shim(s), the shim template tool and the chart must be used.
FIG. 51 -Clutch Pack Installation
15. Mter the proper shim selection is determined, remove the bolt, nut and flat washers. If it is necessary to revise the shim thickness, remove the clutch hub and clutch plates. 16. Install the selected shim(s) in the cover cavity, re-install the components as outlined in Steps 8 and 9. 17. Install the four steel clutch ear guides and side gear. 18. Place both assemblies in a press, and press the two halves together; then, insert the two Allen head or Phillips head screws, and tighten evenly until tight. If a press is not available, any two stock bolts and nuts may be used opposite each other in the ring gear retaining holes to compress both halves. 19. Install the ring gear and ring gear bolts and washers. Tighten evenly and alternately across the diameter of the ring gear. Torque the bolts to 65-80 ft-lbs. 20. Prior to installation of the Traction Lok differential into a vehicle, a bench torque check must be made. With currently released locker tools, check the torque re-
FIG. 52- Shim Template Tool Application
4-23
GROUP 4-REAR AXLE
4-24
SHIM PACK THICKNESS CHART TRACTION-LOK DIFFERENTIAL Feeler Remove Shim(s) Total Req'd From Shim Pack Gauae Nominal Readina Thick ness
None
0.005
0.010
0.015
0.050
Feeler Gauae Readina 0.028 0.029 0.030 0.031 0.032
Remove Shim( s) From Nominal
0.030
Total Req'd Shim Pack Thickness
0.020
0.045 0.033 0.034 0.035 0.036 0.037
0.035
0.015
0.035
0.038 0.039 0.040 0.041 0.042
0.040
0.010
0.045
0.005
0.050
0.000
0.040
0.018 0.019 0.020 0.021 0.022
0.020
0.030
0.043 0.044 0.045 0.046 0.047
0.023 0.024 0.025 0.026 0.027
0.025
0.025
0.048 0.049 0.050
quited to rotate one side gear while the other is held stationary. The initial breakaway torque may exceed 250 lb. ft. The rotating torque required to keep the side gear turning with new clutch plates is 100 to 250 lb. ft. With re-used clutch plates, the minimum torque required is 40 lb. ft. (The torque may fluctuate 10-40 lb. ft.). REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY OF DRIVE PINION AND BEARING RETAINER 1. Turn the carrier case upright, and remove the pinion shaft nut (Fig. 24). Then remove the U-joint flange (Fig. 25). 2. Remove the seal (Fig. 53) and the slinger. 3. Remove the pinion, bearing, and retainer assembly from the carrier housing. Measure the shim thickness with a micrometer. Record this original shim thickness. If a new
gear set is installed during assembly, a new shim will have to be installed. The original shim thickness is one of the factors necessary in determining the new shim thickness. Extreme
care must be taken not to damage the mounting surfaces of the retainer and carrier.
FIG. 54 -Removing FIG. 53- Removing Pinion Seal
Pinion Front Bearing Cone
PART 4-2-REAR AXLE OVERHAUL
FIG. 58- Removing Pinion Rear Bearing Cup
FIG. 55-Removing
Pinion Rear Bearing Cone 4. Place a protective sleeve (hose) on the pinion pilot bearing surface. Press the pinion shaft out of the pinion front bearing cone (Fig. 54). 5. Press the pinion shaft out of the pinion rear bearing cone (Fig. 55). PARTS REPAIR OR REPLACEMENT Clean and inspect all the parts. Before assembling the carrier, repair or replace all parts as indicated by the inspection. The principal replacement operations are covered in the following procedures. All other repair or replacement operations are performed during cleaning and inspection, or during the assembly in this section. PILOT BEARING 1. Remove the pilot bearing as shown in Fig. 56. Drive out the pilot bearing and the bearing retainer together. 2. Drive the new bearing in until it bottoms as shown in Fig. 57. 3. Using the same tool, install a new pilot bearing retainer with the concave side up. PINION BEARING CUPS Do not remove the p1mon bearing cups from the retainer unless the cups are worn or damaged. The flange and pilot of the retainer are machined during manufacture by locating on these cuPS after they are installed in their bores. If the cups are worn or damaged, they should be removed and replaced as shown in Fig. 58. Mter the new cups are installed (Fig. 59), make sure they are seated
4-25
FIG. 56 -Removing
Pilot Bearing in the retainer by trying to insert a 0.0015-inch feeler gauge between the cup and the bottom of the bore. Whenever the cups are replaced the cone and roller assemblies should also be replaced. PINION BEARING SPACER INSTALLATION 1. Install the drive pinion rear bearing cone and roller on the pinion shaft (Figs. 60 or 61). Place a new spacer on the pinion shaft (Fig. 62). 2. Place the bearing retainer on the pinion shaft, and install the front
FIG. 59 - Installing Pinion Front Bearing Cup
Tooi-T62F-4625-A or 4625 -AC-l and 2
l.~~~~-- DRIVE PINION
FIG. 57 -Installing Pilot
Bearing
FIG. 60- Installing Pinion Rear Bearing Cone
GROUP 4-REAR AXLE
4-26
I
C) Tooi -4621 -L
/
i
I
I,,
in the retainer is as specified. If the torque required to rotate the pinion is less than specified, tighten the pinion shaft nut a little at a time until the proper preload is established. Do not overtighten the nut. If excessive preload is obtained as a result of overtightening, replace the collapsible bearing spacer.
I
FIG. 61- Installing Pinion Rear Bearing Cone bearing cone and roller. Press the front bearing cone and roller into position as shown in Fig. 63. Be careful not to crush the bearing spacer. 3. Lubricate the 0-ring with axle lubricant and install it in its groove in the pinion retainer. Be careful not to twist it. Snap the 0-ring into position. 4. Place the proper shim on the carrier housing and install the pinion and retainer assembly, being careful not to pinch the 0-ring (Fig. 64). 5. Install the pinion attaching bolts. Torque the bolts to specification. 6. Place the slinger over the pinion shaft and against the front bearing·. 7. Install a new seal in the bearing retainer (Fig. 65). 8. Install the U-joint flange. 9. Start a new iJ?.tegral nut and washer on the pinion shaft. 10. Hold the flange and torque the pinion shaft nut to 175 ft-lbs. Do not exceed 175 ft-lbs at this time. 11. Check the pinion bearing preload as shown in Fig. 66 . Correct pre-load will be obtained when the torque required to rotate the pinion
FIG. 64- Removing or Installing Pinion and Retainer Assembly
FIG. 63- Installing Pinion Front Bearing Do not back off the pinion shaft nut to establish pinion bearing preload. If the torque on the pinion shaft nut is less than 175 ft-lbs after bearing pre-load is established, a new collapsible spacer must be used. DIFFERENTIAL CASE, BEARINGS AND RING GEAR
If the ring gear runout check (before disassembly) exceeded specifications, the condition may be caused by a warped gear, a defective case, or excessively worn differential bearings. To determine the cause of excessive runout proceed as follows: 1. Assemble the two halves of the differential case together without the ring gear, and press the two differ-
FIG. 65- Installing Oil Seal entia! side bearings on the case hubs. 2. Place the cups on the bearings and set the differential case in the carrier. 3. Install the bearing caps and adjusting nuts as outlined in step 11 thru 14 under Assembly and Installation of the Differential Case in this section.
0 -RING LOCK
PILOT BEARING
FLANGE
mb;
N~~, ~'I SEAL
FRONT BEARING RtTAINER
SHIM
PINION
PILOT BEARING
E 1782-A
FIG. 62- Pinion and Bearing Retainer
PART 4-2-REAR AXLE OVERHAUL
FIG. 66- Checking Pinion Bearing Preload 4. Tighten the right nut two notches beyond the position where it first contacts the bearing cup. Rotate the differential case several revolutions in each direction while the bearings are loaded to seat the bearings in their cups. This step is important. 5. Again loosen the right nut to release the preload. Check to see that the left nut contacts the bearing cup. Using a dial indicator, adjust the preload to 0. 012 case spread for new bearings or 0. 005 to 0 . 008 for the original bearings, if re-used. 6. Check the runout of the differential case flange with a dial indicator. If the runout does not now exceed specifications, install a new drive gear. If the runout still exceeds
FIG. 67- Pinion and Ring Gear Markings specifications, the ring gear is true and the trouble is due to either a defective case or worn bearings. 7. Remove the differential case from the carrier and remove the side bearings from the case. 8. Install new bearings on the case hubs, and again install the differential assembly in the carrier without the ring gear. 9l Check the case runout again with the new bearings. If the runout is now within limits, the old bearings were excessively worn. Use the new bearings for assembly. If the runout is still excessive, the case is defective and should be replaced. DRIVE PINION AND RING GEAR SET When replacing a ring gear and pinion, note that the original factory
4-27
installed shim is of the correct thickness to adjust for individual variati(ms in both the carrier housing dimension and in the original gear set dimension. Therefore, to select the correct shim thickness for the new gear set to be installed, follow these steps: 1. With a micrometer, measure the thickness of the original shim removed from the axle and use the same thickness upon installation of the replacement carrier assembly or drive pinion. If further shim change is necessary, it will be indicated in the tooth pattern check. 2. If the original shim is lost, substitute a nominal shim for the original and use the tooth pattern check to determine if further shim changes are required. Nominal shim thickness is indicated in the Specifications Section. A new ring gear and pinion should always be installed in an axle as a matched set (never separately). Be sure the same identifying (matching) number, painted in white, appears on the bolt hole face of the ring gear and on the head of the drive pinion (Fig. 67). 3. After determining the correct shim thickness as explained in the foregoing steps, install the new pinion and ring gear as outlined under Assembly.
4-28
PART
SPECIFICATIONS
4-3
ADJUSTMENTS INTEGRAL CARRIER AXLES Inch 0.005"~.007"
Backlash between Ring Gear and Pinion
Max. 0.003"
Backlash Variation between Teeth Rear Bearing Cone to Drive Pinion-Available Shims Thickness 0.080"~.1 00" in 0.002" increments Differential Bearing Adjustment-Available Shims Thickness
0. 254"~.28·4"'
in 0.002" increments
Drive pinion preload adjustment-Available Shims Thickness
0 .070"~ . 106"
in 0.00 I" increments
Runout of beck face of ring gear as assembled
Max. 0.005"
INTEGRAL CARRIER LIMITED SLIP AXLE Minimum rotating torque required to turn axle shaft and side gear with one wheel on ground .. Rotating torque required during bench check after assembly original or new cones and housing
50 lbs. ft. 50 lbs. ft.
DIIVI PINION ADJUSnNG SHIM THICKNISS CHANGII--INCH Old P111t1 lllrklll +4 +3 +2 +1 0 -1 -2 -3
-4
New Pinion Mullin&
-4
-S
-2
-1
0
+1
+2
+3
+4
+0.008 +0.007 +0.006 +0.005
+0.007
+0.006 +0.005 +0.004
+0.005 +0.004
+0.004 +0.003
+0.002
+0.002 +0.001
+0.001 0 -0.001
0 -0.001 -0.002 -0.003 -0.004
0 -0.001 -0.002 -0.003
+0.001 0 -0.001
+0.001 0 -0.001 -0.002
0 -0.001
+0.003 +0.002
+0.003 +0.002 +0.001
-0.002 -0.003 -0.004
-0.003 -0.004 -0.005
-0.004 -0.005
-0.004 -0.005
-0.005 -0.006
-0.006 -0.007
+0.004 +0.003 +0.002 +0.001 0
+0.006 +0.005 +0.004 +0.003 +0.002 +0.001 0 -0.001
+0.003 +0.002 +0.001 0 -0.001 -0.002
-0.002 -0.003
-0.002 -0.003
-0.006 -0.007 -0.008
PART 4-3-SPKfiCAnONS REMOVABLE CARRIER TRACTION LOK
4-29
NOTE: All specifications are civen in inches unless otherwise noted.
Backlash between ring qear and pinion Maximum backlash variation between teeth Maximum runout of backface of ring gear Differential side gear thrust washer thickness Differential pinion gear thrust washer thickness Nominal pinion locating shim Available pinion gear shims in steps of . 001 Maximum radial runout of U joint flange in assembly •Minimum torque required to tighten pinion flange nut to obtain correct pinion bearing preload Pinion bearing preload original bearings. with oil seal Pinion bearing preload new bearings. with oil seal Minimum rotating torque required to turn axle shaft and side gear with one wheel on ground tRotating torque required during bench check after assembly original clutch plates new clutch plates
0 . 008-0. 012 0 .003 0 .003 0 .030-0.032 0 .030-0 . 032 0 .015 0 .010-0 .029 0 .010T.I.R. 175 lbs. ft. 8-14 lbs. in. 22-32 lbs. in. 40 lbs. ft. 40 lbs. ft. min. 100-250 lbs. ft.
•If pinion bearing preload exceeds specification before this torque is obtained. install a new spacer. tRotating torque may fluctuate up to 40 lbs. ft.
TORQUE LIMITS INTEGRAL CARRIER AXLES Torque Umm Rear Cover Bolts
Ft. Lbs. 20- 25
Differential Bearing Cap Screws Drive Pinion Nut (Minimum Torque)
35-45 240-280
Ring Gear Attaching Bolts
40-
Rear Springs to Axle Housing U Bolts
35-
so so
Universal Joint Bolt Nuts Axle Identification 199071 199072 199073 199069 199070
12- IS 7- 10
Rear Shock Absorber to Rear Spring
IS- 25
Clip Plate Assembly Nuts
IS- 25
Axle Shaft Bearing Retainer Nuts Pinion Bearing Preload (Including Oil Seal Drag) Differential Assembly Pre·Load (Pull Measured
30-35 IS-301b. ins. 3.31b. Min.
From String Wrapped Around the Differential Case larger Diameter
b.Sib. Max.
REMOVABLE CARRIER TRACTION LOK Differential bearing cap bolt Differential bearing adjusting nut lock bolts Carrier to housing stud nuts Pinion retainer to carrier bolts Ring gear attaching bolts Oil filler plug Rear axle shaft bearing retainer bolt nuts
70-85 lbs. ft. 1 2-25 lbs. ft. 25-40 lbs. ft. 30-45 lbs. ft. 65-80 lbs. ft. 25-50 lbs. ft. 30-35 lbs. ft.
4-30
GROUP
4-REAR AXLE
REAR AXLE LUBRICATION INTEGRAL CARRIER CONVENTIONAL GRADE FORD SPECIFICATION CAPACITY
SAE 90 ESW-M2C-108A 2.3 IMP. PINTS
INTEGRAL CARRIER LIMITED SLIP GRADE FORD SPECIFICATION CAPACITY
SAE 90 ESW-M2C-1006A 2.3 IMP. PINTS
REMOVABLE CARRIER TRACTION LOK GRADE FORD SPECIFICATION CAPACITY
SAE 90 ESW-M2C-119A
4 IMP. PINTS
REAR AXLE RATIOS, GEAR AND CODE IDENTIFICATION
Type
Ratio 3.23 : 1 2.92 : 1 3.5 :1 3.23 : 1 2.92 : 1 3.5: 1 3.23 : 1 2.92 : 1 3.50: 1 2.75 3.00
2 2 2 2 2 2 4 4 4 4 4
Diff Pinion Diff Pinion Diff Pinion Diff Pinion L.S. Diff Pinion L.S. Diff Pinion L.S. Diff Pinion Diff Pinion Diff Pinion Diff Pinion Diff Pinion
Identification Label
Ring Gear Dia.lns.
Ring Gear No. of Teeth
7.5 7.5 7.75 7.5 7.5 7.75 7.5 7.6 7.75 9.00 9.00
42 38 35 42 38 35 42 38 35 33 39
199 265 199 267 199 266 199 268 199 271 199 269 199 273 199 272 199 270 D2DW-BA D2DW-CA
Pinion Drive Gear No. of Teeth 13 13 10 13 (1) 13 (1) 10 (1) 13 13 10 12 (2) 13 (2)
(1) Integral Carrier Limited Slip (2) Removable Carrier Traction Lock
AXLE APPLICATION BY VEHICLE MODEL
Engine 200-1
v
250-1 V-2V
302-2V
351-2V 351-4V
Transmission 3 Speed Manual Auto 3 Speed Manual 4 Speed Manual Auto 3 Speed Manual 4 Speed Manual Auto 4 Speed Manual Auto 4 Speed Manual Auto
Falcon Sedan 3.23 3.23 3.23
Falcon Wagon 3.23 3.23 3..23
3.23
3.23
2.92 2.92 2.92 2.92 3.0 2.75
2.92 2.92 2.92 2.92
-
-
All 351 C.I.D . vehicles are equipped with Traction Lok axles (L.S.D.). L.S.D. (Integral carrier) is optional on all 2.92. 3.23. and 3.5 axles.
Falcon Ute and Van 3.5 3.5 3.23 3.23 3.23 2.92 2.92 2.92 3.0 Ute only 2.75 Ute only
-
Falcon G.T.
-
Fairlane Sedan
3.23 3.23
2.92 2.92
-
2.9 2
-
2.75
3.0 2.75
-
-
FALCON FAIRLANE w~:~~~~P
DRIVE LINE AND CLUTCH
GROUP 5
PAGE
PART 5-1-
Drive Line
5-2
PART 5-2-
General Clutch Service
5-8
PART 5-3-
Clutch
5-12
PART 5-4-
Specifications
5--21
5-2
PART
5·1
DRIVE LINE
~tion
1 2
Pace Description and Opet·ation ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... 5-2 Tl'ouble Diagnosis ... .. .... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... 5-2
0
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
The drive shaft is the means of transferring power from the engine to the differential in the rear axle and then to the rear wheels. The drive shaft incorporates two universal joints and a slip yoke. The universal joints are provided with a threaded plug which can be removed to lubricate the universal
B
Section Pap ...... ...... ...... 1).2 3 Replacement .. .... . ..... ...... ...... Removal ..... ...... ...... ...... .... .. .. .. .. ...... ...... ... ... 5-2
joints when necessary. The splines in the yoke and on the transmission output shaft permit the drive shaft to move forward and rearward as the axle moves up and down. All drive shafts are balanced. If the car is to be undercoated, cover the drive shaft to prevent application of the undercoating material.
All universal joints have the cap retaining clips on the inside of the drive-shaft yokes. 351 C.l.D. vehicles have U-bolts to attach the rear U .J. to the Pinion Flange (Fig. 1). All other vehicles use clamp plates and bolts as shown in Fig. 2.
TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS
DRIVE SHAFT TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS AND POSSIBLE CAUSES
DRIVE LINE VIBRATION
U.JOINT NOISE
EJ
Undercoating or other foreign material on shaft. Universal joint U-bolts loose. Universal joints worn, or lack of lubricant. Drive shaft mis-aligned (drive line angle). Pinion flange runout. Pinion runout. Universal joint U-bolts loose. Lack of lubrication.
Drive shaft and universal joints 180 deg. out of phase. Broken rear spring centre bolt. Broken rear spring. Rear springs not matched (sagged to one side). Drive shaft damaged (bent) or out of balance (missing balance weights). Worn U-joints.
REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL 1. To maintain drive line balance, mark the relation of the slip yoke and the drive flange on the axle with the shaft so that they may be installed in their original positions. 2. Disconnect the rear U-joint from the drive pinion flange. Pull the drive shaft toward the rear of the car until the front U-joint yoke clears the transmission extension housing and the seal.
3. Remove the snap rings that retain the bearings in the yoke and drive shaft (Fig. 1&2 ). 4. Place the U-joint in a vice or a press. 5. Select a socket wrench with an outside diameter slightly smaller than the U-joint bearings. Select another socket wrench with an inside diameter slightly larger than the bearing outside diameter. 6. Place the socket wrenches at
opposite bearings so that the smaller socket becomes a bearing driver and the larger socket becomes a bearing receiver when the vice jaws come together (Fig. 3). 7. Close the vice jaws until the spider contacts the yoke or drive shaft. Remove the driveshaft from the vice. Remove the one bearing with channel lock pliers. 8. Reverse the sockets and press the opposite bearing outward until .
PART 5-1-DRIVE LINE
5-3
FIG. 1-Drive Shaft Disassembled-3 51 CID only (Typical}
). ~ 0 0
A J! FIG. 2 -Drive Shaft Assembly Disassembled -other than 351 CID the spider contacts the yoke or drive shaft. Remove the bearing with channel lock pliers. 9. Remove the spider from the shaft or yoke. Remove the remaining two bearings in the same manner. 10. If new U-joint bearings are being installed, check the new bearings for adequate grease. INSTALLATION 1. Position the spider in the yo}se. Press a bearing into the bore and onto the spider. Press another in the opposite bore of the yoke and onto the spider. 2. Install the snap ring on each bearing. 3. Install the spider and bearings in ihe drive shaft in the same
manner as in the yoke. 4. Use the same procedure to remove and replace the rear U-joint spi~er and bearings. Check the joint for freedom of movement. If a bind has resulted from misalignment during the foregoing procedures, tap the ears of the driveshaft sharply to relieve the bind. Do not install the drive-shaft unless the universal joints are free of bind. 5. If the rubber seal installed on the end of the transmission extension housing is damaged in any manner, install a new seal. 6. On a manual-shift transmission, lubricate the yoke spline with conventional transmission lubricant (Group 19). On an automatic trans-
FIG. 3- Removing Universal Joint mission, lubricate the yoke spline with automatic transmission fluid. Install the yoke on the transmission output shaft. 7. Install the U-bolts and nuts/ bolts which attach the U-joint to the drive pinion flange. DRIVE LINE VI BRAliONS
Vehicle vibration and roughness is often the result of driveline variatiQns. Driveline disturbance vibrations are usually high frequency vibrations and are somewhat worse on acceleration or rapid deceleration. The vibration produces a buzzing feeling, a droning condition or, as some customers describe, "pressure noise on the eardrums". It is likely that the vibration sensation is more
5-4
GROUP 5-DRIVE LINE AND CLUTCH
noticeable in the rear seat and over the driveline, than in any other area of the car. Driveline vibrations frequently originate with excessive runout of the driveline components, namely, pinion companion flange, the pinion itself, drive-shaft, slip yoke and transmission output shaft. Runout in these components will produce vibrations due to the fact that the components will be rotating on a centre other than the centre of balance. Unbalance of one or more of the driveline components will produce vibration. Driveline angles and the amount of deflection across the universal joints will also produce similar vibrations.
PROPERLY SEA TED
CUP SI1AVES LUG
DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURES:
Road test for the presence of conditions described previously. Driveline and running gear vibrations can be separated from engine and sometimes transmission vibrations by use of the following methods: 1. Install a tachometer and note the engine speeds at which the vibration occurs. Stop the vehicle and operate the engine at the speeds noted above. If the vibration is present, the problem is in the engine or transmission input component areas. 2. Operate the vehicle in high gear in the speed range which produces the maximum vibration. If practicable, shift the transmission into intermediate gear and note if there is a change in the vibration. If the vibration is unchanged, usually the engine and transmission can be eliminated as the source of the problem. Repeat the above procedure but shift the transmission to neutral and shut off the engine. Again if the vibration is unchanged, it can be assumed that the engine and input ,members of the transmission are not at fault. 3. Raise the car on a hoist or place the car on jack stands and operate the vehicle at the same road speeds that produce the vibration noted in the road test. While operating at this speed, carefully adjust engine R.P.M. so that the maximum amplitude of the vibration can be noted and felt. Holding the accelerator pedal steady, disengage the driveline by either moving the shift lever to neutral or depressing the clutch and observing whether or not the vibration diminishes in direct proportion to speed of the car as
FIG. 4 - Universal Cup to Pinion Flange Fit
FIG. 5 - Checking Flange Bearing Cup Runout indicated on the speedometer. Quickly engaging the driveline should reproduce the vibration level of the driveline which, when being operated on jack stands, is about twice the level as that actually experienced out on the road. CHECKING COMPANION FLANGE
a
To check companion flange, place the vehicle on a hoist of the
type that supports the axle housing and proceed as follows: 1. With the driveshaft removed, check the companion flange for damage to the universal joint bearing location lugs and proper bearing seating. Investigation of driveline vibration complaints has disclosed that some complaints are the result of improper assembly of the companion flange and driveshaft. Accu-
PART 5-1-DRIVE LINE mulation of dimensional tolerances in the companion flange and rear universal joint assembly can result in excessive interference between the companion flange locating lugs and universal joint bearings. If this condition exists and the bearings are forced into the companion flange, it is possible to shave metal off the lugs. The result wi:l be a severe vibration condition. See Fig. 4. It will be necessary to replace the companion flange whenever inspection discloses evidence of damage to either of the universal joint locating lugs. Tight or binding universal joint bearings must be corrected or replaced. The universal joint bearings should be checked for any evidence of• binding during the companion flange inspection. 2. Install a universal joint assembly in the companion flange. (Modify the universal joint assembly by removing the driveshaft bearing cups and cutting off one of the driveshaft bearing cup trunnions.) See Fig. 5. 3. Install a dial indicator on the pinion retainer or pinion nose bumper bracket in a position that will allow indicating the ends of the universal joint bearing cups and the remaining end 'of the cross shaft. Install a cup shaped adaptor on the dial indicator stem. See Fig. 5. 4. Turn the companion flange so that the dial indicator cup is bearing on the machined end surface of1:he bearing cup. Refer to Fig. 5 . The flange should be rotated slightly to obtain the reading which indicates that the bearing cup surface is perpendicular to the indicator cup. This will be the point at which the dial indicator cup is closest the centre of companion flange rotation. It is also the point at which the dial indicator hand will reverse direction as the companion flange is turning. Set the indicator to zero. 5. Carefully retract the dial stem and rotate the companion flange 180° to position the opposite flange universal joint bearing cup machined surface under the indicator cup. Again slightly rotate or rock the flange to position the bearing perpendicular to the dial indicator cup. Again, this is the point at which the indicator hand will reverse direction as the flange is rotated. Record the indicator runout reading. 6. Rotate the companion flange 90° and position the dial indicator cup on the machined end surface of
5-5
AVERAGE OF READINGS Ind icator
Flange Bearing Cup Runout
Drivesh aft Un iversa l Cross Shaft Runout
1 2 3
3
5
5
3 4 4
Average
4 4
FIG. 6 -Checking Driveshaft Universal Cross Shaft Runout the cross shaft. See Fig. 6. Make sure that the end surface of the cross shaft is perpendicular to the indicator cup. This requires that the cross shaft be moved fore and aft.on the flange bearing cups noting the point at which the indicator hand reverses direction. Then rotate or rock the flange assembly until the cross shaft is perpendicular on the pinion shaft axis and the indicator hand reverses direction. 6. Zero the dial indicator and recheck the zero point slightly rocking the cross shaft fore and aft and then rocking the .companion flange side to side. 7. Carefully retract the dial stem and rotate the flange 180°. Rotate the cross shaft 180° on the flange bearing cups to position the cross shaft under the dial indicator cup. Rock the cross shaft fore and aft and the companion side to side to establish the point at which the indicator hand reverses direction. This will determine the driveshaft universal cross shaft runout. Record this reading. 8. Repeat Steps '4' through '7' at least three times and average the indicator runout readings obtained. 9. In order to determine the total companion flange runout, it will be necessary to use the chart in Fig. 7.
Position a straight edge at the amount of flange bearing cup runout indicated above on the left hand line of the chart. Position the other end of the straight edge at the amount of driveshaft universal cross shaft runout indicated on the right hand line of the chart. The straight edge will indicate the amount of combined runout on the middle line of the chart. For example: with an indicated . 003" flange bearing cup runout and an indicated . 004" driveshaft universal cross shaft runout, the combined companion flange runout, according to the chart will be . 005" as indicated on the centre column of the chart. The Falcon companion flange rur.out specification is . 008" maximum. However, in some vehicles it may be necessary to reduce the runout to . 005" in order to obtain maximum vibration reduction. Note that according to the chart, runout of . 003" in one dimension and up to . 004" on the other dimension will result in desirable . 005" combined runout. However, if the runout exceeds . 005" on either measurement, the combined runout will be . 005" or more. NOTE: If it is not possible or practical to rework a universal joint
5-6
GROUP 5-DRIVE LINE AND CLUTCH
flAN GE BEAR ING CUP RUN().JT
Co.eiNEO RUNOUT
OfiiiVE SHAF T UN IVERSAL CROSS SI1AF T RUN OUT
.009
.006
006
.008
005
.007
----- - --.006
;,005
.003
---
,.,.,...,\.,
~
003 . 00~
.003 001
.001 .001
.00 1 .000
FIG. 7
001
.0(11 .000
000
Runout Chart assembly in the manner described, the above checks can be made without the rework. This can be accomplished by taking readings on both ends of the cross shaft. However, it wili be necessary to take two complete sets of readings in order to eliminate any possible dimensional errors in the cross shaft from affecting the companion flange runout readings. The second set of readings must be read with the universal joint assembly rotated 180° on the companion flange.
FIG.8 - Universal U-bolts reworked
10. If the reading obtained in Step '9' exceeds specifications, reposition the:: companion flange on the pinion shaft 180° and repeat Steps '4' through '9'. 11. If the repeat readings still exceed specifications, reposition the flange an additional90 ° on the pinion shaft and recheck runout.
12. If the runout is still excessive, replace the companion flange and recheck runout. If necessary, rotate flange on pinion shaft until acceptable runout is obtained. 13. If excessive runout is still evident after replacement of the companion flange, it will be necessary to replace the ring and pinion gear and repeat the above checks until runout is within specifications. Lateral runout of the pinion drive flange universal joint bearing cup seats, can be measured in the following manner. 1. Using the modified universal joint described in the preceding paragraphs, measure the outside diameter of the two opposite cups and note any variation; mark the larger cup. In this case it is preferable to obtain two cups of the exact same size. Remove the remaining bearing cup. 2. Rework two universal joint U-boltsfclamp plates as shown is Fig. 8, i.e. grind half the fiat surface away. 3. Raise the vehicle on a frame contact hoist or jack the rear of the vehicle and fit body stands . 4. Fit the universal joint into the flange with the relieved portion of the U-bolts/clamp plate toward the centre of the flange (refer Fig. 8) . 5. Mount a dial gauge from the differential housing so that the stylus contacts the smaller of the universal joint bearing cups. 6. Rotate the flange slightly until the dial gauge indicates the highest point of the cap. Zero the dial gauge. 7. Lift the dial gauge stem sufficiently to allow clearance as the flange is rotated through 180° to the opposite cup. 8. Lower the stylus onto the cup and rotate the flange until the highest point of the cup is indicated. Note the dial gauge reading and subtract the cup variation as in Item '1'. 9. Repeat Steps '6', '7' and '8' at least three times and average the result. If the average measurement is greater than . 002 inches, a new flange should be fitted and again checked to this procedure. DRIVESHAFT RUNOUT CHECK:
Check the driveshaft runout 5" from each end and in the middle of the shaft. Driveshaft runout should not exceed . 020" at any of the three checking points. Many times a vibration condition can be reduced to an acceptable level
PART 5-1-DRIVE LINE by rotating a driveshaft that has some degree of runout, 180° on the companion flange. DRIVESHAFT BALANCING PROCEDURE: 1. Place the car on a twin post hoist so that the rest of the car is supported on the rear axle housing with wheels free to rotate. 2. A car is normally more sensitive to excessive unbalance at the rear so that checking should begin at the rearward end of propeller shaft. Therefore, locate the heavy side of the driveshaft by holding crayon or coloured pencil close to rearward end of shaft while shaft is rotating (speedometer.indicating 40-50 mph). See Fig. 9. Carefully bring crayon up
FIG. 9 - Driveshaft Balancing Procedure
until it just contacts rotating shaft. If carefully done, only the heavy side (point of maximum runout) will be marked by crayon. This normally gives a good indication of which side of the shaft is heavy for unbalance and indicates a starting point for initial location of clamps. 3. Install two Jubilee Type hose clamps on the propeller shaft, as shown in Fig.lO.Position each clamp with heads 180° from crayon marking. Tighten clan1ps. 4. Run the car through the speed range to 65-70 mph. If no unbalance is felt, nothing further need be done on the hoist. However, if unbalance still exists, the combined weight of the two hose clamp heads may be
FIG. 1 0-lnstallationWhiHek Type Hose Clamps
5-7 excessive, so to reduce this excess, rotate the clamp heads away from each other approximately 45 ° (one each way from the original position). See Fig. 11. Run car and note if unbalance has improved. 5. Continue to rotate the clamps apart in smaller angular increments until the car feel for unbalance is best. 6. Road test the car again for final check of balance. NOTE: Slight vibration felt in the car on the hoist may not show up i.ti a road test which is after all the final determining factor. CAUTION: Do not run car on hoist for extended periods due to danger of overheating of transmission or engine.
FIG. 11 - Positioning Jubilee Type Hose Clamps on the Propeller Shaft
5-8
PART 5-2
GENERAL CLUTCH SERVICE
1 Diagnosis and Testing .... .. ...... ...... .. .... Diagnosis Guide-Clutch ... ... ... ... ... ... 2 Flywheel Housing Alignment .... .. .... .. Inspection ... ... ...... .. .. .. .... .. ... ... ...... ... ... Correction .. .... .... .. .. .. .. . ..... .. .. .. .. ... .
II
. .... . ... . .... .. ..... . ... ...
.. .... ... .. . ... ... ......
6-8 5·8 6· 9 6·9 5· 9
3 Cleaning and Inspection ... .. . ...... Release Bearing ...... ...... ...... .. .... Pressure Plate and Cover ...... ...... Clutch Disc ...... ...... .. .... ...... ...... Pilot Bushing ... ... ...... ...... ...... .... ..
.. .... ...... ...... ...... ......
.... .. ...... ...... ...... ......
...... .... .. ...... ...... ......
6-10 5·10
5·11 6-11
5 ·11
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS GUIDE -
CLUTCH POSSIBLE CAUSES
TROUBLE SYMPTOMS EXCESSIVE CLUTCH PEDAL FREE PLAY AND/OR INADEQUATE RESERVE
CLUTCH PEDAL HANG-UP OR EXCESSIVE CLUTCH PEDAL EFFORT
CLUTCH NOISY WHEN PEDAL FREE TRAVEL IS TAKEN OUT, ENGINE RUNNING
CLUTCH NOISY WITH ENGINE OFF
1. Worn clutch disc. 2. Leaking hydraulic system. 3. Air in hydraulic system. 4. Worn or failed pressure plate. 1. Lack of lubricant on transmission input shaft bearing retainer. 2. Incorrect assembly of release lever to pivot or release bearing. 3. Internal friction in pressure plate (302 C.I.D. engine only). 4. Binding of pedal assist spring bushes (302 C.I.D. engine only}.
1. Release bearing failure.
1. Binding at pedal support bracket. 2. Lack of lubricant on slave cylinder push rod end at release lever. 3. Lack of lubricant on transmission input shaft bearing retainer. 4. Binding at assist spring pivots (302 C.I.D. engine only).
1. Worn or contaminated clutch lining.
2. Grease or oil on clutch facings from:
CLUTCH SLIPS OR CHATTERS
INTERMITTENT SQUAWK
A.
release bearing. B. engine. C. release lever. D. pilot bearing. E. transmission. 3. Weak or failed pressure plate. 4. Loose pressure plate to flywheel bolts. 1. Flywheel housing misalignment.
CORRECTION
1. Replace worn or defective parts.
2. Check system for leaks. 3. Bleed system. 4. Replace pressure plate. 1. Clean and lubricate retamer with a thin coat of MIC75A grease. Refill grease groove of clutch release bearing hub with MIC75A grease. 2. Check assembly and rectify if necessary. 3. Clean and lubricate sparingly with lubri-plate. 4. Lubricate bushes with MIC75A. 1. Replace bearing.
1. Lubricate with engine oil or replace support bracket bushing. 2. Lubricate push rod end with MIC75A. 3. Clean and lubricate retainer with thin coat of moly base grease MIC75A. (No polyethylene.) 4. Lubricate spring pivots with MIC75A. 1. and 2. Replace defective part. (If grease or oil is causing the clutch to slip, replace the disc. Remove the grease or oil from the pressure plate and flywheel and re-use if it is not burned or scored.) Repair source of leakage. 3. Replace pressure plate. 4. Torque bolts to spec. 1. Realign housing to specification.
PART DIAGNOSIS GUIDE -
CLUTCH (Continued)
CLUTCH NOISY WHEN DISENGAGED ENGINE RUNNING
CLUTCH SPIN OR DRAG
CORRECTION
POSSIBLE CAUSES
TROUBLE SYMPTOMS
EJ
5-9
5-2-GENERAL CLUTCH SERVICE
1. 2.
1. and 2. Replace bearing.
Pilot bearing worn. Release bearing worn.
1. Failed or worn pressure plate. 2. Grease on linings of clutch disc. 3. Flywheel housing out of alignment. 4. Damaged clutch disc. 5. Lack of fluid. 6. Air in hydraulic system. 7. Clutch disc fitted in reverse. 8. Uneven centre drive plate release (twin plate clutch only). 9. Binding of the disc on the input shaft splines.
FLYWHEEL HOUSING ALIGNMENT
Alignment of the flywheel housing bore and rear· face with the engine should be checked as a possible cause of any of the following troubles: excessive transmission gear wear, transmission jumping out of gear, especiall~· top gear, drive line vibration, excessive pilot bushing wear, noisy release bearing, or excessive clutch spin time.
from
the
mounting
face
of
the
housin~·.
3. Install the dial indicator on the pilot and adjust the holder so the button will contact a circumfer~nce just inside of the transmission mounting· holes (Fig-. 1 ).
INSPECTION
4. Push the flywheel forward to l'emove crankshaft end play. Set the dial indicator face to read zero.
1. Wrth tht! clutch release bearing removed, install the indicator· pilot tool shown in Fig. 1.
5. Remove the spark plugs to alleviate compression.
2. Clean the faces of the flywheel housing bolt bosses, and remove all burrs, nicks, and paint
While for·cing the flywheel for·ward, rotate the crankshaft through one revolution and note (i.
1. Replace pressure plate. 2. Replace clutch disc and degrease pressure plate and flywheel. 3. Align to specifications. 4. Replace clutch disc. 5. Rectify cause of fluid loss, refill and bleed system. 6. Bleed system. 7. Fit clutch disc correctly, if damaged replace. 8. a. Dismantle clutch assembly and clean thoroughly with particular attention to adaptor drive lugs. b. Check centralising springs for even height, reset if necessary. 9. Check splines for burrs, rusting and damage. Clean up splines or replace input shaft. Lubricate spline .with Molybond 122L Dry Spray Lubricant.
the point of maximum runout. Mark runout on the face of housing. 7. Position the dial indicator to check bore alig·nment (.Fig. 1). The bore must be clean and free of burrs, nicks and paint.
8. Pull the crankshaft through one revolution. Note the indicator reading and mark the maximum point of runout on the face of the housing. 9. Remove the dial indicator from the crankshaft and the houaing.
CORRECTION ENGINE IN CAR Since any change in face alignment will change bore alignment, it may be possible to correct bore alignment by changing face alignment. Face alignment can be changed by shimming between the flywheel housing and ~ngine. Fig. 2 shows the type of shim which can be fabricated.
MAXIMUM FACE RUN OUT+ 0.009 INCH
FIG. 1 -
-
-
-
MAXIMUM NEGATIVE BORE RUN OUT 0.0151NCH Cl017·C
Flywheel Housing Alignment Check
Not more than 0.010 inch thickness shims may be used between the flywheel housing and engine. lf a 0.010-inch shim will not bring
GROUP 5-DRIVE LINE AND CLUTCH
5-10
face and bore alignment within limits, replace the flywheel housing.
11----IY•"----tl
~w
C1136-A
FIG. 2 -
Fabricated
Flywheel Housing Shim If both the bore and face alignment are out of limits, shim between the flwheel housing and engine to bring face alignment within limits. Check the bore alignment. If the bore alignment is out of li;nits and the face alignment is within limits, shim the flywheel housing to the limit of face misalignment and check the bore alignment. If it is not within limits, replace the housing.
ENGINE OUT OF CAR The same procedure to correct alignment may be used with the en-
EJ
gine out of the car or in the car, up to the point of replacing tre flywheel housing. If the bore alignment cannot be brought within limita by shimming, follow this procedure
moved straight up or .down without disturbing the lateral alignment. When alignment is within limits, torque the housing bolts and re· check bore alignment.
1. Remove the flywheel housing· from the engine and remove the dowel pins. Install the flywheel housing and tighten the attaching bolts.
5. If the flywheel housing cannot be moved enough to bring the alignment within limits, mark the holes restricting movement, and then remove the housing and drill the marked bolt holes 1/32 inch larger.
2. Install the dial indicator (Fig. 1 ). Check the face alignment, and shim as required to bring- face alignment within limits. 3. Position the indicator to c-heck the bore alignment. If the bore alignment is not within limits, reduce the tension on the flywheel housing attaching bolts so that the housing can be moved by striking it with a lead hammer or a block of wood and a steel hammer. 4. The lateral alignment should be brought within limits so that an indicator reading is within limits Letween the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions on the bore circle. When the lateral alignment is within limits, the housing usually can be
6. When the flywheel housingbore alignment is within limits and the attaching bolts are at normal torque, hand ream the dowel pin holes 1/32 inch larger. Use a l!traight reamer and ream from the flywheel housing side. Oversize dowel pins can be made from drill rod stock. 7. Remove the flywheel housing and then i-nstall the oversize dowel pins in the cylinder block. Complete the assembly in the usual way. 8. with that ified
Recheck the flywheel housing a dial gauge to make sure the housing is within the speclimits.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
RELEASE BEARING Wipe all oil and dirt off the release bearing. The bearing is prelubricated and should not be deaned with solvent. Inspect the bearing retainer for damaged or loose spring clips and rivets. Inspect the release bearing hub bore for burrs which may cause the assembly to drag on the transmission bearing retainer. Any such burrs should be cleaned up with fine crocus cloth. If burrs are found inspect the transmission input shaft bearing retainer for evidence of scoring. Any scoring should be polished out with crocus cloth. Coat bearing retainer with a thin film of moly-base grease. Prior to release bearing installation, apply a light film of MIC-75 A grease on both sides of the release lever fork where it contacts the release bearing hub and retaining springs. Release lever pivots and push rod seat. Care must be exercised when applying lubricants to the release bearing, release bearing hub and the release lever fork to
FIG. 3-Release Bearing and Hub Assembly-351 CID Twin Disc Clutch
FIG. 4-Release Bearing and Hub Assembly6 Cyl.
PART 5-2-GENERAL CLUTCH SERVICE noisy, replace the bearing and hub assembly. Misalignment between the engine and transmission can cause release bearing failure. Other symptoms of misalignment are: transmission jumping out of gear, especially top gear, drive line vibration, excessive clutch disc spin time resulting in gear clash, and excessive transmission gear wear.
The pressure plate should be lubricated with lubriplate between the driving lugs and the edges of the pressure plate. Depress the pressure plate finge1·s fully, apply the lubricant, and then move the fing-er·s up and down until the lubricant is worked in . Do not apply exct>ssive lubricant.
PRESSURE PLATE AND COVER
Inspect the clutch disc facings for oil or grease. Eliminate the source of any oil or grease before replacing the disc. An excessive amount of grease in the release bearing hub will find its way to the disc facings. Too much lubricant in the transmission or a plugged transmission vent will force the transmission lubricant out the input shaft and onto the disc facings.
Inspect the surface of the pressure plate for burn marks, scores, OJ' ridges. Generally, pressure plate re-surfacing is not recommended. However, minor burn marks, scores, or ridges may be removed. During the r·esurfacing process, the flatness of the pressut·e plate must be maintained. If the pressure plate is badly heat-checked or deeply scored, replace the pressure plate and cover assembly. Clean the pressure plate and flywheel surfaces with a crocus cloth to be sure the surfaces are free from any oil film. Do not use cleaners with petroleum base, and do not immerse the pressure plate in the solvent.
FIG. 5-Release Bearing and Hub Assembly302V8 avoid excessive grease from contaminating the clutch di sc. Hold the bearing inner race and rotate the outer race while applying pressure to it. If the bearing rotation is rough or
5-11
CLUTCH DISC
Inspect the clutch discs for worn or loose facings. Check the discs for distortion and for lose rivets at the hub. Check for broken springs. Springs loose enough to rattle will not cause noise when the car is operating. Replace the discs assemblies if any of these defects are present. Be especially c-.areful when installing a new disc to avoid dropping it or contaminating it with oil or grease.
302 C.I.D. ONLY Place the plate on the floor, being careful not to score or :scratch the surface. Force each individual finger down, then release it quickly. If the finger does not return quickly, a binding condition is indicated, and the pressure plate should be replaced.
PILOT BEARING Check the fit of the clutch pilot bearing in the housing of the crankshaft. The bearing is pressed into the crankshaft and should not be loose or cocked in the bore. If the bearing is worn or damaged, replace it with a new service bearing.
5-12
PART 5·3
CLUTCH
Section Pace 1 Description and Operation . ...... ...... .. .. .. ...... 6-12 2 In car Adjustments and Repairs ...... .... .. ... ... 5-14 Reservoir Topping-Up .... .. Bleeding the Clutch
0
5-14 5-14
Section 3 Removal and Installation 4 Hydraulic System Repairs Clutch Operating Cylinder Disassembly Assembly
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
DESCRIPTION
There are three types of clutches used on this model. A. A 9t or 9! inch single dry plate diaphragm clutch is used on six cylinder engines. Fig. 6. B. A 10 inch single dry plate coil spring clutch is used with the 302 C.I.D. V-8 engine. Fig. 7. C. A 9t inch twin disc dry plate diaphragm clutch is used with the351 C.I.D. V-8engine.Fig. 8. All clutches are hydraulically operated. The discs incorporate a spring dampened hub, and the linings are cushion mounted to ensure a smooth take up of the drive. The clutch disc hub is free to slide along the splines of the main drive gear shaft, the forward end of which forms a spigot to fit into the clutch pilot bearing in the centre of the crankshaft. OPERATION
The clutch release mechanism, is hydraulically actuated by a pendant pedal, connected by a short push rod to the clutch master cylinder. The clutch master cylinder is mounted on the front face of the engine rear bulkhead on the driver's side of the vehicle. The front spigot end of the piston accommodates the valve stem and carries the valve spring retainer. The return spring, under compression, is fitted between the spring retainer and the valve spacer at the forward end of the cylinder. A reservoir port, drilled at the
FIG. 6-Ciutch Disc and Flywheel6 Cyl.
Page 5-14
5-19 5-19 5-19
PART 5-3-CLUTCH front of the cylinder, allows fluid from the reservoir to enter the cylinder. A tube connects the master cylinder port to the slave cylinder. With the clutch pedal m the fully released position, fluid is free to flow from the reservoir into the cylinder. When the pedal is depressed, the piston moves forward advancing the valve spacer and seal. The spacer contacts the end of the cylinder. The wave shim between the flange on the valve stem and the valve spacer pushes the valve seal into contact with the end of the cylinder, so sealing off the reservoir port, preventing the fluid from being pumped back into the reservoir. The fluid is, therefore, pumped through the outlet port to the slave cylinder on the clutch housing, the increase in hydraulic pressure assisting the action of the valve seal. Pressure in the clutch slave cylinder operates a non-adjustable push rod which, in turn, acts on the release lever end. The release lever is retained on a fulcrum in the clutch housing by mear'i of a spring. When the release lever is actuated, the release bearing is moved toward the clutch, moving the fingers of the diaphragm spring. The release bearing is retained to the clutch release lever fork by means of two clips. This method of clutch operation ensures smooth clutch engagement as relative movement between the engine and the clutch pedal is not transferred to the operating mechanism. The diaphragm spring is pivoted on a fulcrum ring located on pins which are riveted to the clutch housing. As the diaphragm spring is compressed by the release bearing, the diaphragm's outer edge deflects thereby causing the clutch to disengage. When the pedal is released, the master cylinder return spring pushes back the piston, reducing the pressure in the cylinder. The diaphragm spring or pressure plate fingers acting on the operating cylinder piston, via the release arm and push rod, pushes the fluid back into the master cylinder. As the piston reaches the end of its rearward travel, the valve spacer and seal will be pulled away from the reservoir port by the valve stem. The valve uncovers the reservoir port so that fluid may be replenished in the cylinder, as necessary.
5-13
FIG. 7 -Coil Spring Clutch 302 CID V8 only
••• 1 11 . ..
_._._:· ~~· .
.
~
,. .,_ .
. ... .
'
--·-·
-'
-
FIG. 8-351 Twin Disc Clutch-Typical
.. ..
-Je-·. ',,
. .
5-14
EJ
GROUP 5-DRIVE LINE AND CLUTCH IN CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
The maintenance required for the clutch system. is to top-up the master cylinder, and, if necessary, to bleed the system. Details of these operations are given in the following paragraphs. No manual adjustment is possible or provided for on any of the clutch systems. RESERVOIR TOPPING-UP
The fluid level in the reservoir tank, which is integral with the clutch master cylinder body, should be regularly checked. Top up to the correct level, marked on the master cylinder body with approved fluid. The cap and the area surrounding it should be wiped with a clean rag before removing the cap, to prevent dirt entering when it is removed. Ensure that the air vent in the cap is clear before replacing the cap. BLEEDING THE CLUTCH
If it is suspected that an incorrect fluid has been used in the hydraulic system, drain completely and flush out with methylated spirit or commercial alcohol. Renew the piston seals in the master cylinder and slave cylinder
EJ
as outlined in Page 5-19 and refill the system with fluid, Rl-39 A. Engine, transmission or other mineral oils must not be used in the system or allowed to come into contact with seals, pistons, etc., being stored. Foreign matter must be avoided since it may score the pistons or damage the seals and render the clutch wholly or partially inoperative. When replacing clutch system parts, examine the seals and any seal which is imperfect should be replaced. Pistons and housings should be checked for scores which may provide a track for fluid leaks under pressure and any damaged parts must be renewed. Prior to assembly, immerse hydraulic components in clean fluid, Rl-39 A to facilitate fitting and provide initial lubrication for working surfaces. 1. Clean the area surrounding the bleed valve on the cylinder. 2. Fit a suitable tube on the bleed valve and place the end of the tube in a bottle containing fluid, Rl-39 A. Keep the end of the tube beneath the surface of the fluid throughout the bleeding operation. 3. Open the bleed valve by turn-
ing it anti-clockwise and slowly depress and release the clutch pedal several times. For each stroke some fluid or air should be pumped out of the tube. If neither fluid nor air is pumped out, the bleed valve is not properly opened or there is a blockage in the pipe line. NOTE: Where air in the system is suspected remember that when bleeding the system the initial application of the clutch pedal will cause the air trapped in the bleed tube to be forced into the fluid container. 4. Continue depressing and releasing the clutch pedal slowly until no more air bubbles emerge from the rube, ensuring that the fluid level in the reservoir is maintained during the bleeding operation. Do not replenish the reservoir with the fluid drained from the system as it may be aerated or contaminated. If the fluid pumped out of the tube is dirty, drain the system completely and refill with fresh Rl-39 A. 5. Close the bleed valve tightly with the pedal fully released, when fluid alone comes out of the bleed tube with each stroke of the clutch pedal. 6. Refill the reservoir to the correct level and refit the cap.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER REMOVAL
Disconnect the clutch master cylinder push rod from the pedal. 2. Detach the fluid line by unscrewing the union nut, using a blanking plug to prevent dirt entering the line. 3. Withdraw the master cylinder after removing the two nuts and spring washers securing the master cylinder to the bulkhead. 1.
INSTALLATION
l. Refit the master cylinder to the engine bulkhead, replace the two securing spring washers and nuts and tighten to the specified torque. 2. Reconnect the fluid pipe, tighten the union nut securely, but
do not overtighten. 3. Reconnect the clutch master cylinder push rod to the pedal by passing the push rod eye over the pedal pin, refitting the shouldered nylon bush and keeper pin. 4. Top up the master cylinder reservoir with clean approved fluid, Rl-39 A, and then bleed the system. Check the action~ of the clutch on road test. THE CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER REMOVAL
The clutch slave cylinder is mounted on the clutch housing on the left-hand side, and is retained by two bolts. 1. Detach the fluid line by unscrewing the union nut, using a
blanking plug to prevent dirt entering the line. 2. Remove the slave cylinder after removing the two retaining bolts. INSTALLATION
1. Fit the rubber boot to the operating cylinder and insert the push rod.
2. Position the slave cylinder on to the flywheel housing and fit the retaining lock washers and bolts. Torque the bolts to specification.
3. Reconnect the fluid tube. Tighten the union nut, but do not overtighten. Bleed the system.
5-15
PART 5-3-CLUTCH CLUTCH
RELE'ASE LEVER
INSTALLATION
REMOVAL
FIG. 9 - Non-Adjustable Operating Cylinder All Vehicles
The clutch release lever is held in position on the knife edge pivot by a spring wire clip Fig. 10. 1. Remove the flywheel housing as outlined in clutch pressure plate and /or disc removal. 2. Using a large screwdriver through the transmission input shaft hole in the flywheel housing, prise the release lever retaining spring from the tang in the knife edge pivot (Fig. 10).
1. Lubricate the knife edge pivot recess in the release lever with grease MJC 75 A. 2. Locate the retaining spring on the release lever (Fig. 10). 3. Assemble the release lever in the flywheel housing with the knife edge pivot in its recess in the lever. Using a large screwdriver through the transmission input shaft hole in the flywheel housing, lift the release lever retaining spring on to the pivot tang. (Fig. 10).
3. Remove the release lever toward the centre of the flywheel housing.
4. Install the flywheel housing as outlined in clutch pressure plate and/or disc installation.
r---
.-£' --
FIG. 1 0-Ciutch Release Lever and Pivot
FIG. 11-lnstallation Sketch Clutch Operating Mechanism
~- -.
-
0
~~
_:~ ~-------~--
I -
-
5-16
GROUP 5-DRIVE LINE AND CLUTCH
FIG. 12-lnstallation 6 Cyl. Clutch
FIG. 13-lnstallation 302 CID V8 Clutch
FIG. 14-lnstallation 351 Twin Disc Clutch
PART 5-3-CLUTCH CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE AND OR DISC REMOVAL
cover, then remove the pressure plate and clutch disc.
1. Raise the car on a hoist. 2. Disconnect the drive shaft from the rear U-joint flange. Then slide the drive shaft off the transmission output shaft. Insert appropriate Extension Housing Seal Installation tool over the output shaft and into the extension housing oil seal. 3. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing. 4. Disconnect the gear shift rods from the transmission levers. 5. Support the engine with a transmission jack and remove the two nuts securing the transmission rear support to the crossmember. 6. Raise the rear of the engine with the transmission jack. Remove the two nuts, washers, and bolts securing the crossmember to the frame supports. Remove the crossmember. 7. Remove the bolts that attach the transmission to the flywheel housing. 8. Move the transmission rearward until the input shaft clears the flywheel housing, then remove the transmission. 9. Remove the clutch slave cylinder. 10. Remove the starter cable. Remove the starter motor from the flywheel housing. 11. Remove the bolts that secure the engine rear plate or flywheel housing lower cover plate to the front lower part of the flywheel housing. 12. Remove the bolts that attach the flywheel housing to the cylinder block and remove the housing and the release lever as a unit. 13. Loosen the pressure plate cover attaching bolts evenly to release the spring tension. If the same pressure plate and cover is to be installed after the clutch is overhauled mark the cover and flywheel so that the pressure plate can be installed in the same position, to maintain a balanced assembly. When fitting a new pressure plate and/ or flywheel the balance marks are to be placed opposite each other. The heavy side of the pressure plate is marked with a daub of paint while the heavy side of the flywheel is marked with a drill point. 14. Remove the attaching bolts while holding the pressure plate
1. Hold the clutch disc, and pressure plate and cover assembly in position on the flywheel. Start the cover attaching bolts to hold the pieces in place but do not tighten them. Avoid dropping the parts or contaminating them with oil or grease. Grade 5 bolts Part No. 382087-S must be used. 2. Align the clutch disc with a clutch arbor or an old transmission input shaft and torque the pressure plate cover attaching bolts evenly to specification. Then remove the tool. 3. Make certain that the release bearing and hub is properly installed on the release lever. Completely fill the grease groove in the hub bore and lightly smear the remainder of the bore with a film of moly type grease. Do not lubricate the clutch disc hub. 4. Make certain that the flywheel housing and the cylinder block mounting surfaces are clean. Position the flywheel housing on the cylinder block and install the attaching bolts. Torque the bolts to specifications. 5. Lubricate the push rod release lever end with grease MIC 75 A and install slave cylinder as shown in Figs. 10-11-12. 6. Secure the engine rear plate or flywheel housing lower cover plate to the front of the flywheel housing with the attaching bolts. 7. Install the starting motor and connect the cable. 8. The mounting surfaces of the transmission and the flywheel housing must be free of dirt, paint, and burrs. Install two guide pins in the flywheel housing lower mounting bolt holes. Move the transmission forward on the guide pins until it is positioned against the flywheel housing. 9. Install the two upper mounting bolts. Then, remove the guide pins and install the two lower mounting bolts. Torque all bolts to specifications. 10. Raise the rear of the engine high enough to provide clearance for installing the crossmember. Install the two crossmember-to-frame support attaching bolts, washers, and nuts. Do not tighten at this time. 11. Align the bolts in the transmission rear support with the bolt
INSTALLATION
5-17 holes in the crossmember, then lower the engine and remove the jack. Install the two transmission rear support-to-crossmember washers and nuts and torque to specifications. Tighten the crossmember-to-frame support nuts. 12. Connect the gear shift rods to the transmission levers. Adjust the shift linkage. 13. Remove the tool from the transmission output shaft, and install the drive shaft. 14. Connect the speedometer cable to the extension housing. 351 C.I.D. TWIN PLATE CLUTCH REMOVAL
Refer to the preceding paragraphs 1-13 of clutch pressure plate and/or disc remol'al. 1. If the same centre drive plate, pressure plate and cover is to be installed after the clutch is overhauled, mark them so that they can be installed in the same position, to maintain a balanced assembly. When removing the twin plate clutch from the flywheel, it is essential to firstly relieve the pressure plate clamping load by evenly loosening the three mounting bolts. Replace the bolts one at a time with guide pins, which can be simply made by cutting the head from a 3" x 5/ 16" UNC bolt and cutting a screwdriver slot in the plain end. The clutch assembly may now be handled with ease. 2. Remove the pressure plate. 3. Remove the rear clutch disc. 4. Remove the centre drive plate. NOTE: When placing the centre drive plate on a bench or flat surface it should be supported to avoid damagmg the centralising springs. 5. Remove the front clutch disc and remove the cylindrical adaptors from the flywheel. The guide pins may be left in place to assist in re-assembly.
FIG. 1 5-Fiywheel and Cylindrical Adaptors-351
5-18
GROUP 5-DRIVE LINE AND CLUTCH
351 C.I.D. TWIN PLATE ClUTCH INSTALLATION
Warning: It is mandatory when replacing a clutch disc on the clutch installation of the 351 CID engine, that both clutch discs be replaced at the one time. If this procedure is not adhered to, clutch spin may be experienced. Special size Grade 8 mounting bolts Part No. V388021-S2 must be used. 1. Spray a light coating of Molybond 122L over the cylindrical adaptors prior to their installation over the guide pins and assemble the adaptors over the guide pins (Fig. 15). 2. Assemble the front clutch disc. This disc is identified by Part No. ARC9DA-7550-B and is also marked flywheel side around the hub (Fig. 16). 3. Assemble the centre drive plate. Ensure the drive plate is fitted as shown in (Fig. 17), i.e. the centralizing springs, clockwise of the cylindrical adaptors. Check that the drive plate slides freely on the adaptors. 4. Assemble the rear clutch disc. This disc is identified by Part No. ARC9DA-7550-C and is also marked Pressure Plate side around the hub (Fig. 18). 5. Assemble the pressure plate to the cylindrical adaptors. Replace the guide pins with the grade 8 mounting bolts one at a time. Tighten the pressure plate to flywheel bolts finger tight (Fig. 19). Ensure the centre drive plate centralizing springs are located as shown in Fig. 20. 6. Insert clutch disc aligning tool No. 7550-A into the discs and pilot bearing. 7. Torque the pressure. plate mounting bolts evenly to 19-21 lbs.-ft. 8. Remove the disc aligning tool and continue reassembling the vehicle as outlined Page 5-17 of clutch pressure plate and I or disc installations. The 6 cylinder and 351 C.I.D. twin disc clutch pressure plate and cover assemblies althougl]. very similar must not be interchanged. The twin disc pressure plate can be identified by the three dowel holes in the pressure plate friction surface (Fig. 20).
FIG. 16- Front Plate Fitted to Flywheel
FIG. 20- Clutch Assembly Assembled
GRADE 8 V388021-52 382087-5 MOUNTING BOLTS
FIG. 1 7- Centre Drive Plate
FIG. 21
FIG. 18- Rear Plate FiHed to Centre Drive Plate
FIG. 22-351 Pressure Plate Showing Dowel NOTE: It is essential that the correct grade of bolt (pressure plate to flywheel) be used.
FIG. 19- Pressure Plate FiHed to Adaptor Drive Plates
6 and 8 cylinder, single plate, grade 5, three lines on bolt head. 8 cylinder, twin plate, grade 8, six lines on bolt head.
PART
IJ
5-19
5-3-CLUTCH
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM REPAIRS
MASTER CYLINDER DISASSEMBLY 1. Empty the contents of the fluid reservoir into a clean container. 2. Remove the rubber boot. Then withdraw the circlip and remove the push rod. 3. Withdraw the piston and valve assembly from the cylinder. 4. Remove the piston from the valve assembly. The spring retainer is held in position on the spigot end of the piston by a tab which engages under a shoulder on the front of the piston. Prise up the tab (Fig. 24·) and remove the spring retainer, spring and valve assembly from the piston. 5. To dismantle the valve assembly, compress the spring and move the valve stem to one side in the retainer, so releasing the end of the valve stem from the key slot hole in the retainer. Slide the valve spacer and shim off the valve stem. 6. Remove the rubber valve seal and the piston seal, if necessary. 7. Wash the parts in methylated spirit, brake fluid or commercial alcohol. Do not use mineral fluids such as engine oil or paraffin for washing the parts. Carefully inspect the piston rubber seal and renew if there is any sign of damage to the sealing lip. It is not advisable to turn the seal inside out when examining as distortion will be caused. Examine the piston and cylinder bore
for scores or damage. ASSEMBLY 1. Replace the piston seal with the lip away from thr larger diameter of the piston. 2. Fit the valve seal to the valve stem with the lip outwards and away from the spring. Slide the shim, the valve spacer, with the legs over the valve seal, and the return spring, in this order, over the valve stem (see Fig. 23 ). Ensure that the convex face of the shim abuts the valve stem flange. 3. Fit the spring retainer in the rear end of the return spring, compress the spring and locate the valve stem in the key hole slot in the end of the spring retainer. 4. Insert the front of the piston in the spring retainer, and secure it . by locating the spring retainer tab under the front shoulder of the piston. 5. Dip the piston and seal in hydraulic fluid Rl-39 A. Insert the piston assembly in the cylinder, valve seal end first. Ensure that the piston seal is not damaged as it enters the master cylinder. 6. Install the push rod in the master cylinder. Locate the washer and fit the retaining circlip. 7. Refit the rubber boot to the clutch master cylinder.
®
8. Fit the master cylinder and bleed the system as outlined in Pages 5-14. CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER DISASSEMBLY 1. Withdraw the push rod and rubber boot from the operating cylinder. 2. Remove the piston and seal, lightly tap the cylinder on a block of wood. Withdraw the piston and rubber seal from the cylinder body. 3. Unscrew the bleed valve on the side of the cylinder body. Pull the rubber piston seal off the spigot at the front of the piston. 4. Wash all parts in hydraulic fluid Rl-39 A, methylated spirit or commercial alcohol and examine the rubber piston seal carefully. Renew the seal if there is any sign of damage to the sealing lip. Never use mineral fluids such as engine oil or kerosene for washing hydraulic system parts. ASSEMBLY
1. Locate the piston seal on the spigot at the front end of the piston with the recess in the seal away from the piston (see Fig. 25). 2. To fit the piston dip the piston and seal in hydraulic fluid, and carefully insert, spigot end first, into the cylinder. 3. Replace the bleed valve but do not tighten. 4. Fit the operating cylinder and bleed the system.
0 ~•oVALVE SPACER
FIG. 24 -Removing the FIG. 23 -Exploded View Clutch Master Cylinder
Piston Valve
5-20
GROUP 5-DRIVE LINE AND CLUTCH
I FIG. 25- Clutch Operating Cylinder
5-21
PART
SPECIFICATIONS
5-4
CLUTCH DISC IDENTIFICATION Clutch Discs can be identified by Part Numbers stamped on the hub as follows:
Engine & Transmission 6 6 6 6 6 8 8
Cyl 200 Cyl 250 Cyl 250 Cyl 250 Cyl 250 Cyl302 Cyl 351
CID-3SPD CID-IV -3SPD CID-IV -4SPD CID-2V -3SPD CID-2V -4SPD CID-3 & 4 -SPD CID-2 & 4V-4SPD
Number of Damping Springs
Part No.
Diameter
ARDIDA-7550-B ARDIDA-7550-A ARDIDA-7550-C 72DA-7550-BA 72DA-7550-CA C60Z-7550-G ARC9DA-7550-B FRONT ARC9DA-7550-C REAR
6 6 6 6 6 12
9f' 9f' 9f' 9t'' 9t'' 10
6
9t''
Part No.
Number of Springs
Diameter
PRESSURE PLATE IDENTIFICATION Engine 6 6 6 8 8
Cyl Cyl Cyl Cyl Cyl
200 250 250 302 351
Cl DCID-IV CID-2V CIDCID-
ARC8DA-7563-A ARD1 DA-7563-A 72DA-7563-BA C20Z-7563-F ARC9DA-7563-C
Diaphragm Diaphragm Diaphragm 9 Diaphragm
9t'' 9t'' 9f' 10" 9t''
NOTE-The 351 Cl D Pressura Plate Assembly can be identified by the three locating dowel holes in the Pressure Plate Friction Surface TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS 35-45 lbs. ft. 12-20 lbs. ft. 7-10 lbs. ft. 12-20 lbs. ft. 13-18 lbs. ft. 17-22 lbs. ft. 19-21 lbs. ft.
Flywheel housing to cylinder block bolts .. Clutch pressure plate retaining bolts 7260 Series Universal pinion yoke nuts 1310 Series Universal pinion yoke U-bolt nuts Clutch master cylinder mounting nuts Clutch slave cylinder mounting bolts Twin plate clutch pressure plate to flywheel bolts . . LUBRICATION Clutch release bearing hub to bearing retainer Pressure plate cylindrical adaptors . . Pressure plate fingers Release lever tips . . Release lever fulcrum both sides Input Shaft spline . . DO NOT USE EXCESS LUBRICANTS ON ABOVE ITEMS Clutch master cylinder fluid
MIC 75A Molybond 122L Lubriplate MIC 75A MIC 75A Molybond 122L ESW-FM-6C2
DRIVE LINE IDENTIFICATION
EngineVehicle Application 200 250 302 200 302 351 351 351 351
C.I.D. Passenger C.I.D . Passenger C.I.D. Passenger & 250 C.I.D . Commercial C.I.D. Commercial C.I.D. Auto. 4V C.I.D. Manual 4V C.I.D . Auto . 2V C.I.D. Manual 2V
Slip Yoke
Rear Axle STD 2 pinion STD 2 pinion 2 Pinion H.D. 4 pi·nion H.D. 4 pinion Traction Lok 4 Traction Lok 4 Traction Lok 4 Traction Lok 4
pinion pinion pinion pinion
28 28 28 28 28 31 28 28 28
Spline Spline Spline Spline Spline Spline Spline Spline Spline
Universal Joint Series 7260 7260 7260 7260 7260 1310 1310 1310 1310
REFERENCE TO SERVICE INFORMATION AND NOTES Date
Letter No.
Pa1e
Brief Detail
FALCON FAIRLANE w~:~~~~P
MANUAL TRANSMISSION
GROUP 6
PAGE
PART 6-1
General Transmission Service
6-2
PART 6-2
3-Speed Partially Synchronised Manual Shift Transmission Series BW 199333.
6-9
PART 6-3
3-Speed Fully Synchronised Manual Shift Transmission Series BW 199332 and 199331.
6-18
PART 6-4
4-Speed Fully Synchronised Manual Shift Transmission RUG. A.R. and RUG. B. F.
6-24
PART 6-5
Specifications
6-36 For shift tube replacement in column shift vehicles refer Group 3 front suspension and steering. This group for linkage adjustment.
6-2
PART 6-1
GENERAL TRANSMISSION SERVICE
Pare Section 6-2 1 Diagnosis and Testing ...... .. .... ...... .. .. .. 2 Common Adjustments and Repairs .... .. ...... .. .. .. 6-7 Gear Shift Linkage Adjustment .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ... . 6-7
II
Section Rear Seal Replacement ...... ...... .. .... Rear Bushing and Seal Replacement 3 Cleaning and Inspection .... .. .. .. .. ......
Pare 6-7 6-7 6-8
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING outside of the transrruss10n, such as, clutch, clutch linkage, steering columns and shift linkage. Before and during the road test, make sure that the clutch is functioning properly, the shift linkage is properly adjusted, the steering column is properly aligned and, that the transmission is filled to the proper level with lubricant.
The following problems can be experienced with a manual shift transmission: excessive amount of noise, hard shifting efforts, transmission jumps out of gear, gears clash when transmission is shifted from one gear ratio to another, and lubricant leakage. The car should be road tested, if possible, to determine or confirm complaint. Under normal operating conditions, a large percentage of transmission complaints are due to maladjusted or faulty components
The following diagnosis procedure is compiled as a guide in correcting problems related to manual transmissions. Trouble symptoms,
possible causes and corrective measures are listed in the order they should be checked to eliminate all possibility of maladjustment or faulty components outside of the transmission prior to any transmission removal and disassembly. If the transmission was removed, repaired and reinstalled, make certain the clutch and all gear shift linkage is adjusted to specifications. Road test the vehicle to be sure that the problem has been completely corrected.
DIAGNOSIS GUIDE- TRANSMISSIONS To eliminate all possibility of maladjustments or faulty compon-
TROUBLE SYMPTOMS GEAR CLASH
ents in the clutch and/or clutch linkage, refer to Clutch Diagnosis
POSSIBLE CAUSES
and Testing, Group 5 (Driveshaft and Clutch), of the shop manual.
CORRECTION
SHIFT LINKAGE 1. Improper crossover. 2. Loose nuts at steering column levers and shift rods. If the nuts are loose, check for bell-mouthing of slots. 3. Bent transmission shift rods or linkage interference. 4. Lack of lubrication of shift linkage, trunnions .
1-2. Adjust levers and shift rods to proper crossover, torque nuts to specification. Replace bell-mouthed rods or levers. 3. Replace bent rods. 4. Clean and lubricate with Molybdenum Disulphide grease.
PART 6-1-MANUAL SHIFT TRANSMISSION TROUBLE SYMPTOMS GEAR CWH-Continuecl
POSSIBLE CAUSES CLUTCH 1. Excessive engine idle speed. 2. Inadequate dutch pedal reserve resulting in excessive spin time. Inadequate clutch disengagement. 3. Disc binding on transmission input shaft. 4. Excessive disc runout. 5. Flywheel housing misalignment. 6. Oil or grease on clutch facings from: A. Release bearing B. Engine C. Release lever D. Pilot bearing E. Transmission. 7. Damaged or contaminated clutch lining. TRANSMISSION 1~ Forward Gear Clash A. Weak or broken insert springs in the synchronizer assembly. B. Worn blocking rings and/ or cone surfaces. C. Broken blocking rings. D. Excessive output shaft end play. E. Binding input shaft pilot bearing (non-synchronized low gear transmission only). F. Worn shifter forks or sleeves. 2. Reverse Gear Clash (allow approximately three-four seconds after the clutch pedal has been depressed before shifting into reverse gear). A. If gear clash continues after allowing proper time for the clutch plate to stop, check clutch to make sure that it is within specification. B. Excessive engine idle speed. C. Binding input shaft pilot bearing.
HARD
SHIFTIN~
SHIFT LINKAGE 1. Improper crossover. 2. Loose nuts at steering column levers and shift rods. If the nuts are loose, check for bell-mouthing of slots. 3. Bent transmission shift rods or linkage interference. 4. Lack of lubrication of shift linkage, trunnions. STEERING COLUMNS 1. Improper column alignment, looseness, binding and worn surfaces. 2. Worn shift key or broken weld securing shift key to top or bottom of shift tube.
6-3 CORRECTION
1. Adjust engine idle rpm. 2. Check for damaged input. shaft pilot bearing or excessive clutch disc runout-replace defective parts. 3. Check for burrs on splines, replace if necessary. 4-6-7. Replace clutch disc. 5. Align to specification.
1. A-B-C-D-F. Replace worn or defective parts.
2. A. See possible causes under Clutch for gear clash trouble symptoms.
B. Adjust engine idle rpm. C. Replace defective parts.
1-2. Adjust levers and rods to proper crossover, torque nuts to specification. Replace bell-mouthed levers.
3. Replace bent rods or levers. 4. Clean and lubricate with Molybdenum Disulphide grease.
1. Align column properly, replace defective column parts. 2-3-4. Replace defective parts.
6-4
GROUP TROUBLE SYMPTOMS
HARD SHIFTING (Continued)
6-GENERAL TRANSMISSION SERVICE POSSIBLE CAUSES 3. Loose shift lever pin in die cast selector lever hub. 4. Keyway 10 die cast selector lever hub pounded out. 5. Loose screws securing die casting to bottom of tube. Excessive radial movement m the column linkage. (If the vehicle has high mileage or is subjected to hard use, even though the crossover has been properly set, the column may have deteriorated to a point where proper crossover engagement will not occur due to excessive radial movement in the column linkage (lost motion). 6. Lack of lubrication in column. CLUTCH LINKAGE 1. Loss of clutch pedal reserve. TRANSMISSION 1. Excessive shift effort. A. Shift levers or forks worn or bent. B. Synchronizer worn or broken. 2. Sticking in Gear. A. Low lubricant level. B. Corroded transmission levers (shaft). C. Defective (right) input shaft pilot bearing. D. Stuck interlock sleeve. E. Burred or battered teeth on synchronizer sleeve and/ or input shaft.
GEAR JUMPOUT
SHIFT LINKAGE 1. Loose nuts at steering column levers and shift rods. If the nuts are loose, check for bell-mouthing of slots. 2. Bent transmission shift rods or linkage interference. 3. Lack of lubrication of shift linkage, trunnions. STEERING COLUMNS 1. Improper column alignment, looseness, binding and worn surfaces. 2. Woro shift key or broken weld securing shift key to top or bottom of shift tube. 3. Keyway 10 die cast selector lever hub pounded out. 4. Loose screws securing die casting to bottom of tube. Excessive radial movement in the column linkage. (If the vehicle has high mileage or is subjected to hard use, even though the crossover has been properly set, the column may have
CORRECTION
5. Replace defective parts. Tighten screws securely.
6. Clean and lubricate with Molybdenum Disulphide grease. 1. Check operating mechanism.
A-B. Replace worn or defective parts. 2. A. Fill to bottom of filler plug hole. B-D. Free-up and clean parts, replace if necessary. C-E. Replace defective parts.
1. Adjust levers and rods to proper crossover. Torque nuts to specification. Replace bell-mouthed rods. 2. R..:place bent rods or levers. 3. Clean and lubricate with Molybdenum Disulphide grease. 1. Align column properly, replace defective column parts. 2-3. Replace defective parts.
4. Replace defective parts. Tighten screws securely.
PART 6-1-MANUAL SHIFT TRANSMISSION TROUBLE SYMPTOMS GEAR JUMPOUT (Continued)
POSSIBLE CAUSES
6-5 CORRECTION
deteriorated to a point where proper crossover engagement will not occur due to excessive radial movement in the column linkage (lost motion). TRANSMISSION
1. Transmission misaligned or loose. 2. Bent or worn shift fork, lever and/ or camshaft. 3. Worn input shaft pilot bearing. 4. End play in input shaft (bearing retainer loose or broken, loose or worn bearings on input and output shafts). 5. Interlock springs broken. 6. Detent notches worn. 7. Worn clutch teeth on the respective gear and/ or worn clutch teeth on synchronizer sleeve. 8. Failure of the operator to fully engage the gears on every shift before engaging the clutch and applying engine power. LOCKED IN GEAR
When a complaint of momentary blackout is encountered in transmissions with non-synchronized lowgear, determine whether or not a normal "blackout" condition does exist, the customer should be informed that the transmission gears cannot be pulled into mesh because of gear tooth to tooth abutment which can be eliminated by releasing and depressing the clutch pedal again (thus spinning the clutch disc). This will re-index the drive and driven gear teeth and allow the gears to mesh.
1. Align to specification. Torque transmission - to - flywheel housing bolts and flywheel housing-to-engine bolts to specifications. 2-3-5-6-7. Replace worn or defective parts. 4. Torque retainer bolts to specification. Replace worn or defective parts.
8. Replace worn parts and educate the operator.
SHIFT LINKAGE
1. Loose nuts at transmtsston levers and shift rods. If the nuts are loose, check for bell-mouthing of slots.
1. Adjust levers and rods to proper crossover. Torque nuts to specification. Replace bell-mouthed rods and levers. Replace bent rods or levers.
STEERING COLUMN
1. Incorrect adjustment of shift linkage. Make certain that when slowly shifting out of low gear, the low gear shift lever at the transmission is completely out of low gear detent prior to the column shift lever dropping through neutral crossover. If the transmission shift lever is not completely out of low gear detent the shift interlock in the transmission will prevent engagement of second gear and a lockup condition occurs. 2. Improper column alignment, looseness, binding and worn surfaces. 3. Worn shift key or broken weld securing shift key to top or bottom of shift tube. 4. Keyway m die cast selector lever hub pounded out. 5. Loose screws securing die casting to bottom of tube. Excessive radial movement in the column linkage. (If the Yehicle has high mileage or is subjected to hard use even though the crossover has been properly set, the column may have deteriorated to a point where proper
1-2. Adjust column properly and replace defective parts.
3-4. Replace defective parts.
5. Replace defective parts. Tighten screws securely. Clean and lubricate with Molybdenum Disulphide grease.
GROUP
6-GENERAL TRANSMISSION SERVICE POSSIBLE CAUSES
TROUBLE SYMPTOMS LOCKED IN GEAR (Continued)
CORRECTION
crossover engagement will not occur due to excessive radial movement in the column linkage (lost motion). Lack of lubrication in column.
TRANSMISSION
NOISY IN FORWARD SPEEDS
1. Shift components not functioning properly. 2. Gear seizure. 3. Synchronizer inserts out of position.
1-3. Install correctly, replace defective parts. 2. Replace defective parts.
1. .Low lubricant level. 2. Transmission misaligned or loose.
1. Fill to bottom of filler plug hole. 2. Align to specification. Torque transmission - to - flywheel housing bolts and flywheel housing-to-engine bolts to specifications. 3-4-5-6-7. Replace worn or defective parts.
lOOSe.
3. Input shaft bearings worn or damaged. 4. Output shaft bearing worn or damaged. 5. Mainshaft gears worn or damaged. (In any case of scored or broken gears, the mating gears should be checked). 6. Countershaft gear or bearings worn or damaged. 7. Gear roll-over noise, inherent in manual transmissions, is caused by the constant mesh gears turning at engine idle speed, while the clutch is engaged and the transmission in neutral; and throwout bearing rub are sometimes mistaken for mainshaft bearing noise. Gear lioll-over noise will disappear when the clutch is disengaged or when the transmission is engaged in gear. Throwout bearing rub will disappear when the clutch is engaged. In the event that a bearing is defective, the noise is more pronounced while engaged in gear under load or coast than in neutral. When complaints of this nature are encountered, it will be necessary to road test the vehicle to determine if bearing noise exists. Under no circumstances should any transmission! rework be attempted to eliminate gear rollover nC)ise, or throwout bearing rub.
NOISY IN REVERSE
1. Reverse idler gear, bearing or shaft, worn or damaged. 2. Reverse sliding gear worn or broken.
1-2. Replace worn or defective parts.
PART 6-1-MANUAL SHIFT TRANSMISSION TROUBLE SYMPTOMS LUBRICANT LEAKS
POSSIBLE CAUSES 1. Excessive lubricant. 2. Vent plugged. 3. Input shaft bearing retainer loose or cracked, seal or gasket damaged. 4. Worn or damaged extension housing seal or gasket. 5. Wom shifter shaft seals. 6. Cover bolts loose. Defective gasket. Damaged cover. 7. Extension housing or bearing retainer bolts not sealed. 8. Expansion plug at front of case not seated properly. 9. Access cover loose or gasket damaged. 10. Vent incorrectly installed.
EJ
6-7 CORRECTION
1. Drain to bottom of filler plug hole. 2. Free up. 3. Add sealer and torque retainer bolts to specifications. Replace defective parts. 4-5-8. Replace defective parts. 5-6-7-9. Add sealer to bolts, and torque to specifications. Replace defective parts.
10. See page 6-17, Fig. 35.
COMMON ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
GEAR SHIFT LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT 1. Place the gearshift lever in the neutral position. 2. Loosen the two gearshift rod adjustment nuts. 3. Insert the gauge pin through the holes in the levers and the bearing at the lower end of the column. Page 6-10. 4. Place the transmission in neutral and tighten the two gearshift adjustment nuts. 5. Remove the pin from the levers. 6. Start the engine and shift the selector lever to each position to make sure it operates freely. REAR SEAL REPLACEMENT 1. Remove the driveshaft. 2. Remove the seal from the extension housing with the tool shown in Fig. 1. 3. Install the new seal in the extension housing with the tool shown in Fig. 2. 4. Install the driveshaft. REAR BUSHING AND SEAL REPLACEMENT 1. Remove the driveshaft from the car.
2. Insert the tool shown in Fig. 3 into the extension housing until it grips the front side of the bushing. 3. Turn the screw clockwise until the seal and the bushing are .free of the housing. 4. Drive a new bushing into the extension housing with the tool shown in Fig. 4. 5. Install a new seal in the housing as shown in Fig. 2. 6. Install the driveshaft.
LUBRICATION Lubrication level should be in line
with the bottom of filler hole left side of transmission case.
Tool-7697-A OR 7000-AF • 7000 GAE
FIG. 3-Removing Extension Housing Bushing
FIG. 2-lnstalling Extension Housing Seal /
FIG. 1-Removing Extension Housing Seal
FIG. 4-Replacing Extension Housing Bushing
6-8
EJ
GROUP 6-GENERAL TRANSMISSION SERVICE CLEANING AND INSPECTION
CLEANING 1. Wash all parts, except the ball bearings, in a suitable cleaning solvent. Brush or scrape all foreign matter from the parts. Be careful not to damage any parts with the scraper. Dry all parts with compressed air. 2. Rotate the ball bearings in a cleaning solvent until all lubricant is removed. Hold the bearing assembly to prevent it from rotating and dry it with compressed air. 3. Lubricate the bearings with approved transmission lubricant and wrap them in a clean, lint-free cloth or paper until ready for use.
INSPECTION 1. Inspect the transmission case for being cracked, worn or damaged bearing bores, damaged threads or any other damage which could affect the operation of the transmission. 2. Inspect the front face of the case for small nicks or burrs that could cause misalignment of the transmission with the flywheel housing. Remove all small nicks or burrs with a fine stone. 3. Replace a cover that is bent or
distorted. Make sure that the vent is open. 4. Check the condition of the shift levers, forks, cams, and shafts. 5. Examine the ball bearing races for being cracked, worn or rough. Inspect the balls for excessive looseness, wear, end play or other damage. Check the bearings for looseness in the bores. If any of these conditions exist, replace the bearings. 6. Replace roller bearings that are broken, worn or rough. 7. Replace the countershaft (cluster) gear if the teeth are chipped, broken or worn. Replace the countershaft if it is bent, scored or worn. 8. Replace the reverse idler gear or sliding gear if the teeth are chipped, worn or broken. Replace the idler gear shaft if bent, worn or scored. 9. Replace the input shaft and gear if the splines are damaged or if the teeth are chipped, worn or broken. If the roller bearing surface in the bore of the gear is worn or rough, or if the cone ·surface is damaged, replace the gear and the gear rollers. Make sure that the synchronizer sleeves and their respective hubs are marked before disassembly to ensure that on assembly the splines are mated as in the
original assembly. 10. Replace all other gears that are chipped, broken or worn. 11. Check the synchronizer sleeves for free movement on their hubs. 12. Inspect the synchronizer blocking rings for widened index slots, rounded clutch teeth and smooth internal surfaces (must have machined grooves). With the blocker ring on the cone, the distance between the face of the blocker ring and the clutch teeth on the gear must not be less than 0·010 inches. 13. Replace the speedometer drive gear if the teeth are stripped or damaged. Make certain to install the correct size replacement gear. 14. Replace the output shaft if there is any evidence of wear or if any of the splines are damaged. 15. Inspect the bushing and the seal in the extension housing. Replace them if they are worn or damaged. 16. Replace the seal in the input shaft bearing retainer. 17. Replace the seals or "0" rings on the cam shafts. 18. Mark the mainshaft splines and low reverse sliding gear to ensure the splines are mated as in original assembly.
6-9
PART 6·2
3 SPEED PARTIALLY SYNCHRONISED MANUAL SHIFT TRANSMISSION SERIES BW 199333
Section
Page
1 Description and Operation ...... ...... ...... 6-9 2 In-Car Adjustments ...... .. .. .. .. .... ...... ...... ...... 6-10 Gear Shift Linkage Adjustment .. .... ...... ...... 6-10 3 Removal and Installation ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... 6-11
D
Section Page 4 Major Repair Operations ... ... ...... ...... .. .. .. ...... 6-11 Disassembly ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... .... .. 6-11 Assembly ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... 6-.13
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
DESCRIPTION
The 3·00 C.D. three-speed transmission is used in models fitted with a 6 cylinder engine. The designation 3 · 00 C.D. is the actual distance between the centreline of the countershaft and the centreline of the input shaft. An identification plate (Fig. 5) is attached to the L/ Hand rear of the extension housing. A synchronizer is provided for shifting to second and third speeds. Shifts to first and reverse speeds are accomplished with a sliding gear. Ball bearings support the input shaft and gear and the centre of the output shaft. Needle bearings in the input shaft bore support the front of the output shaft. The countershaft gear (cluster gear) runs on 3 rows of needle bearings. A bronze bushing is used in the reverse idler gear. A bushing located at the rear of the extension housing supports the rear of the output shaft when the tailshaft is in position. The synchronizer and the blocking rings are the conventional tapered ring and straight clutch gear type. OPERATION
When first gear is selected, the shift lever moves the first and reverse sliding gear into mesh with the low gear on the countershaft (cluster)
PART NQ ......___ _ _ _ _ _ _ __
MODELl I REF. NQ I..____~ SERIAL NQ ~~LwARNER BORG- WARNER
-$-
-~r~
_ I- - - -
1
(AUSTRAUA ) LIMITED
FIG. 5 -Identification Plate gear (Fig. 6). Power flow is now from the input gear, through the countershaft gear to the first and reverse sliding gear and out through the output shaft. When second gear is selected, the shift lever moves the second and third speed synchronizer sleeve rearward to force the blocking ring conical surface against the matching cone on the constant mesh intermediate gear located on the output shaft. When the vehicle is moving, as when shifting from low to a higher gear ratio, the internal teeth of the synchronizer sleeve and those on the blocking ring will not index until the intermediate gear is brought up or down to the speed of the synchronizer sleeve which is rotating
at output shaft speed. The synchronizer sleeve with further movement will slide over the blocking ring and engage the clutch teeth on the constant mesh intermediate gear. Since the intermediate gear is now locked to the output shaft by means of the synchronizer sleeve, power flow is from the input shaft through the countershaft gear to the constant mesh intermediate gear to the output shaft. Engagement of third speed is the same as second except for ratio. In third gear, the clutch teeth on the input shaft are locked directly to the output shaft by the second and third speed synchronizer to provide a ratio of 1 : 1.
6-10
GROUP
6-GENERAL TRANSMISSION SERVICE
FIG. 6-Powerftow Through Transmission Reverse gear is accomplished by moving the first and reverse sliding gear rearward to engage the reverse idler gear. The drive is then from the input
EJ
gear, through the countershaft gear, to and through the reverse idler gear to the first and reverse sliding gear which is splined to the output shaft. The gears in this position will rotate the output shaft in a reverse direc-
tion. An interlock pin prevents selection of more than one gear at a time. Detent balls are provided to hold the selected gear in the desired position.
IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS
GEAR SHIFT LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT 1. Place the gear shift lever in the neutral position. 2. Loosen the two gearshift rod adjustment nuts. 3. Insert the gauge pin through the holes in the levers and the bearing at the lower end of the column (Fig. 7). 4. Place the transmission in neutral and tighten the two gearshift adjustment nuts. 5. Remove the gauge pin. 6. Start the engine and shift the selector lever to each position to make sure it operates freely.
IO·lO La FT
73418
8
LUBIIUCATa IN.ID8. Ofl INftULATORS. (?MI) WITM RS•· MIC75·A PI" OR TO At.t.V Of~
f'OD.
FIG. 7 -Gear Shift Linkage Adiustment
PART 6-2-3 SPEED PARTIALLY SYNCHRONISED MANUAL SHIFT
EJ
6-11
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
REMOVAL
1. Raise the car on a hoist. 2. Remove the driveshaft. Insert the extension housing seal installation tool, Fig. 2, page 6-7 into the opening of the extension housing to prevent the lubricant from leaking out. 3. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing, and disconnect the gear shift levers from ·the transmission. 4. Remove the two nuts retaining the transmission rear support to the crossmember. Note. For rear crossmembers refer to Group 8. 5. Place a transmission jack under the flywheel housing and raise the rear of the engine slightly. 6. Remove the two cotter pins, nuts, and bolts that attach the crossmember to the frame supports. Note. For rear crossmember refer Group 8. 7. Disconnect the brake cable from the equalizer lever. Separate the lever from the crossmember. 8. Remove the crossmember from the frame supports and allow it to hang by the hand brake cable. 9. Move the jack under the transmission. Remove the four transmission to flywheel housing mounting bolts. 10. Move the transmission (Fig. 8), back just far enough to clear the input shaft and remove it from under the car.
EJ
FIG. 8-Typical Transmission INSTALLATION 1. Install two guide pins in the
flywheel housing lower mounting holes. Start the input shaft through the release bearing. Align the output shaft splines with the splines in the clutch disc. Move the transmission forward on to the guide pins. If the transmission front bearing retainer hangs-up on the release bearing hub, move the clutch release lever to free it. 2. Move the transmission forward until the input shaft is through the clutch hub and enters the pilot bearing. 3. Install the two upper transmission to flywheel housing attaching bolts and lockwashers. 4. Remove the two guide pins and install the two lower attaching bolts. Torque all attaching bolts to speci-
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS
DISASSEMBLY
1. Mount the transm1ss1on in a holding fixture and drain the lubricant.
2. Remove the transmission cover and gasket. 3. Remove the extension housing attaching bolts and remove the extension housing and gasket (See disassembly Fig. 9). 4. Remove the speedometer drive gear snap ring, the gear, and drive ball from the output shaft.
5. Remove the retainer for the reverse idler shaft and countershaft (Fig. 10).
FIG. 9-Gearcase Dismantled
fications. 5. Position the crossmember to the frame supports. Install the equalizer lever and brake cable. 6. Secure the transmission rear support to the crossmember. Secure the crossmember to the frame supports and remove the transmission jack. 7. Connect the gear shift rods and speedometer cable. 8. Remove the tool (Fig. 2, .page 6-7 ) from the rear of the extension housing. Install the driveshaft, and torque rear U-bolt nuts to specification. 9. Fill the transmission with approved lubricant. Check the shifting action of the transmission. 10. Adjust the shift linkage as required.
6-12
GROUP
6-GENERAL TRANSMISSION SERVICE 14. Remove the second and third speed gearshift fork. 15. Move the first and reverse spe~~
sliding gear into first speed posltlon.
16. Move the second and third gear synchronizer outer sleeve rearwards to engage the second speed gear clutch teeth. 17. Remove the output shaft assembly through the top of the case.
FIG. 12-Removing or Replacing Input Shaft
19. Remove the reverse idler and cluster gear.
FIG. 10-Countershaft and Reverse Idler Retainer
20. Remove the synchronizer retaining snap ring and slide off the second and third speed synchronizer assembly and second speed gear with its blocker ring. Take a note of the synchronizer assembly hub end position for reference on assembly.
6. Hold the countershaft gear with a hook and using the tool (dummy shaft) shown in Fig. 11, drive the countershaft rearward out of the countershaft gear and the transmission case. Then, carefully lower the countershaft gear and dummy shaft to the bottom of the case.
7. After removing the input shaft bearing retainer and gasket, remove the input shaft assembly and front synchronizer blocking ring from the transmission case (Fig. 12). 8. Move the second and third speed gearshift cam into third speed position. 9. Remove the gearshift levers.
10. From the underside of the case, knock out the taper pin from each gearshift camshaft (Fig. 13),
11. Push the gearshift cam and shaft assemblies against the inside of the case.
18. Using a soft drift, drive the reverse idler shaft from the case.
21. Mark the relative positions of low-reverse sliding gear and output shaft splines for reference on assembly and remove the sliding gear.
FIG. 1 3-Removing Cam and Shaft Taper Pins
REPLACEMENT CAM AND SHAFTS AND OIL SEALS
12. Remove the output shaft bearing outer snap ring. Push the output shaft assembly forward so that the output shaft bearing moves through into the gear case. Move the output shaft assembly away from the gearshift forks.
1. Using a plastic hammer, drive the second and third cam and shaft toward the inside of the case and separate the detent balls and spring from the plunger. Push out the cam and shaft assemblies, and remove the plunger.
13. Remove the first and reverse speed gearshift fork.
2. If required, the cam shaft oil seals or "0" rings may be replaced ~y removing them from their grooves m the cam shafts or extracting from case. INPUT SHAFT BEARING 1. Remove the snap ring and
spacer securing the input shaft bearing, and press the input shaft out of the bearing, oil slinger and remove the spacer retaining snap ring and rollers (14) from the internal bore of the input shaft. DUI~MY
COUNTER
SHAFT
SHAFT
FIG. 11-Removing Countershaft
OUTPUT SHAFT BEARING
1. Remove the snap ring securing the output shaft bearing. Remove the bearing and spacer as shown in Fig. 15.
PART 6-2-3
SPEED PARTIALLY SYNCHRONISED MANUAL SHIFT
6-13
FRONT BEARING RETAINER SEAL 1. Remove the input shaft seal from the front bearing retainer as shown in Fig. 19.
2. Install a new input shaft seal as shown in Fig. 20. ASSEMBLY
1. Lubricate the interlock sleeve bore of the gear case and the outside of the interlock sleeve. Use grease to locate one interlock ball in the interlock sleeve and fit the sleeve to the case. 2. Lubricate a: new "0" ring seal and fit to the shaft.
FIG. 14 -Selector
Camshafts, Levers and Interlock Assembly
FIG. 15-Removing Output Shaft Bearing 2. Press the output shaft bearing onto the shaft as shown in Fig. 16 and install the spacer and snap ring on the shaft. Select a snap ring to keep end float to a minimum ( · 000 to ·004).
FIG. 16-Replacing Output Shaft Bearing
3. Lubricate the shaft of the first and reverse gearshift cam and shaft assembly and fit it to the case. Align the shaft retainer groove and the hole in the case and fit the taper pin. Fig. 29 (Use sealer on pin).
4. Lubricate the shaft of the second and third speed gearshift cam and shaft assembly. Fit the cam and shaft assembly and use the centl.'e detent notch to retain the interlock spring, interlock pin and second detent ball, which should now be fitted. (Interlock sleeves are selectively fitted for axial movement of · 002 to · 010 in all gear selection positions -refer Fig. 21). Do not fit taper pin to second and third camshaft at this stage. 5. Lubricate the bore of the reverse idler gear and bush assembly, and install the gear and bush assembly, fitting the reverse idler shaft to the case so that the locking groove is flush with the outside of the case and adjacent to the cluster gear shaft bore. Fig. 22. The reverse idler gear should be installed so that the longer boss of the gear is towards the front of the case. Fig. 23.
SYNCHRONIZER 1. Remove the synchronizer sleeve, blocking rings, inserts, and retainers from the synchronizer hub (Fig. 17).
COUNTERSHAFT GEAR IEARINGS 1. Remove the flat washers, dummy shaft, spacer, and roller bearings from the countershaft gear (Fig. 18).
FIG. 17-2nd & 3rd Synchronizer Disassembled
6-14
GROUP ~-·· CLUSTER
6-GENERAl TRANSMISSION SERVICE
GEAR DISASSEMBLED l REAR 81 METAL THRUST WASHER
FRONT THRUST WASHER
I
inner and outer rear cluster thrust washers on rear of the cluster gear. (Steel washer against cluster, tangs engaged with slots in cluster. Bimetal washer to case, tang to engage with slot in case). 8. Place the cluster assembly in the bottom of the gear case, Fig. 24, ensuring that the tangs of the thrust washers fit the grooves of the case.
FLAT WASHER
6. Using the dummy countershaft, assemble the cluster gear bearing spacer and needle roller bearings to the cluster gear, so that there is a single row of 22 needle rollers and a needle roller flat washer at the forward (large gear) end of the cluster gear, and two rows of 22 needle roller bearings, separated by a needle roller flat washer at the rear (small gear end) of the cluster gear. Fig. 18. 7. Use grease to locate the forward cluster gear thrust washer (large Bimetal washer, tang to engage with slot in case) (Refer Fig. 18) and the
9. Assemble the second and third gear speed synchronizer as follows: Lubricate the second and third speed synchronizer sleeve and fit it to the second and third speed synchronizer inner hub with the sleeve selector groove and the hub inner spline protrusion at opposite ends. Slide the sleeve across the hub until three second and third speed shift plates can be fitted into the slots in the inner hub (Fig. 17). Fit the two second and third speed synchronizer springs, one in each end of the hub, so that a tang of each spring fits into the same shift plate. The free ends of the springs should not be in line (Fig. 25). 10. Fit the output shaft bearing to the output shaft behind the splines for the first and reverse sliding gear. Fit a retainer ring and snap ring, selecting the snap ring to keep end float to a minimum within the limits · 000 to · 004 inches. (Snap rings are available in 4 selective sizes). Do not
FIG. 1.9-Removing Input Shaft Seal
FIG. 20-lnstalling Input Shaft Seal
FIG. 21-Selector Camshafts, Levers and Interlock Assembly
PART 6-2-3 SPEED PARTIALLY SYNCHRONISED MANUAL SHIFT 6-15
FIG. 22-Fitting Reverse Idler Gear Shaft
fit the bearing outside diameter snap ring.
selector groove of the synchronizer sleeve to the rear of the case (Fig. 26).
11. Lubricate the splines of the output shaft and the first and reverse sliding gear, and fit the gear to the output shaft (Fig. 26).
14. Fit the snap ring to the output shaft to retain the second speed gear and synchronizer assembly. Measure the end float between the snap ring and the synchronizer assembly to ensure that this is within the limits ·006 to ·019 inches. It is important that this clearance be maintained to prevent seizure of the components due to expansion.
12. Lubricate the bore of the second speed gear and fit it to the output shaft. Fit a synchronizer blocker ring to the gear cone. 13. Lubricate the splines of the output shaft and the second and third speed inner hub, and fit the second and third speed synchronizer assembly to the output shaft with the -
15. Fit the first and reverse speed gearshift fork to the first and reverse speed (rearmost) cam after lubricating the shaft of the fork. (Fig. 27).
SYNCH RONISER SLEEVE
ST. & REVERSE SLIDING GEAR
FIG. 23-Reverse Idler Gear OUTPUT SHAFT
FIG. 26-0utput Shaft Disassembled FIG. 24-Ciuster Gear in Case
2ND. t. 3RD. SPEED LEVER
()
I"
~
o
FIRST ll. REVERS E /LEVER
0
"a /
• =6
---CAMSHAFT OIL SEALS - - """"
'):t .
/TAPERED RETAINING PINS
...:::::==. INTERLOCK SLEEVE DETENT BALLS
~
--u ==::1
~
~
\ - .,
,._~ 9
DETENT SPRING
=
2 NO. & 3 RD. SPEED GEAiiSHIFT FORK
FIG. 25-2nd & 3rd Speed Syncro Spring Arrangement
Fl RST & REVERSE GEARSHIFT FORK -
FIG. 27-Selector Camshafts, Levers and Interlock Disassembled
FIRST & REVERS!: CAMSHAFT
6-16
GROUP
16. Move the first and reverse speed gearshift cam into first gear position. Move the second and third speed synchronizer sleeve to engage the second speed gear clutch teeth. 17. Lower the output shaft assembly through the top of the gear case, fitting the first and reverse gearshift fork into the selector groove of the first and reverse sliding gear. 18. Move the first and reverse speed gearshift cam into neutral position, and move the second and third speed gearshift cam into third gear position. Push this cam back against the inside of the gear case. 19. Fit the second and third speed gearshift fork into the selector groove of the second and third speed synchronizer sleeve and roll it into position in the second and third speed cam. The fork must be fitted so that the pad branded "T" can be seen through the top of the gearbox. (Fig. 28).
6-GENERAL TRANSMISSION SERVICE 210. Push the second and third speed gearshift camshaft inward and fit the taper pin. (Fig. 29). Fit the bearing retaining outside diameter snap ring. Move second and third speed synchronizer into neutral. 21. Fit the oil slinger, (assembleFig. 31-with projection between input gear teeth), input shaft bearing with outside diameter snap ring, retaining ring, snap ring-Fig. 32and third speed blocker ring to the input shaft. Select the snap ring to
keep the end float to a m1mmum within the limits · 000 to · 004 inches. 22. Use grease to position fourteen needle rollers in the input shaft. Fit the input shaft assembly to the case. (Fig. 12). 23. Use special tool 77047B to press the bearing retainer oil seal into the bearing retainer after coating the oil seal outside diameter with gasket cement. (See Fig. 20). 24. Use a light coating of grease to position the bearing retainer gasket, and fit the bearing retainer with three bolts and lockwashers, tightening the bolts to 20 to 25 lb. ft. torque. (Fig. 33) (Use sealer on bolt threads).
FIG. 30-lnput Shaft Rollers
25. Bring the cluster gear into mesh by carefully turning the gearbox upside down and allowing the cluster gear to drop into place. It may be necessary to rotate the input shaft to ensure proper meshing of the gears. 26. Using the countershaft, (Fig. 34), drive out the dummy shaft from the rear of the case until the locking plate slot in the countershaft is flush with the outside rear face of the case. The slots in the countershaft and the reverse idler shaft must be parallel and adjacent. 27. Fit the locking plate to the countershaft and reverse idler shaft, tapping to bring the plate against the case (Fig. 10).
FIG. 28-0uput Shaft Installation
FIG. 29-Fitting Taper Pins
FIG. 31-lnstalling Input Shaft Bearing
28. Fit the speedometer gear retaining ball to the mainshaft and slide on the speedometer gear. Fit the snap ring.
FIG. 32-lnput Shaft Assembly
PART 6-2-3 SPEED PARTIALLY SYNCHRONISED MANUAL SHIFT
FIG. 34-Replacing Countershaft FIG. 33-Front Bearing Retainer in Place 29, Measure the output shaft bushing inside diameter. If the size is not in the range 1· 3745 to 1· 3755 inches, fit a new output shaft bushing to the extension housing using special tool 7657G/ 27 (Fig. 4, page 6-7). 30. Fit a new extension housing oil seal, using tool 7657G (Fig. 2, page 6-7). 31. Position the ew:tension housing gasket using a light coating of grease. Install the extension housing with six bolts and lockwashers, tightened to 45 to 55 lb. ft. torque (Use sealer on bolt threads).
32. Fit both gearshift levers with lock washers and nuts, tightening to 20 to 25lb. ft. torque. (Refer Fig. 21). 33. Install a new welch plug into the front face of the case, ensuring that it does not protrude above the case face. (Fig. 21) (Use sealer on plug). 34. Pour lubricant over the entire gear train while rotating the input or output shaft. 35. Use grease to position the gearbox top cover gasket. Fit the top cover, tightening six bolts and lockwashers to 8 to 12 lb. ft. torque. (Use sealer on bolt threads).
6-17
FIG. 35-fitting Breather 36. Fit the drain and filler plugs, tightening to 20 to 25 lb. ft. torque. (Drain plug is brass with integral magnet-filler plug is steel).
37. Fit the breather in the extension housing (when removed) with the flat on the breather body on the left side and parallel with centre line of transmission. (Refer Fig. 35).
38. Check transmission operation through all shift positions. 39. Refill transmission. Ensure oil is level with the bottom of the filler hole on the left side of the gear box.
6-18
PART 6·3
3 SPEED FULLY SYNCHRONISED MANUAL SHIFT TRANSMISSION SERIES BW 199332 & 199331
Page Section 1 De~cription r.nd Operation ..... . .. ............ ...... .. .. 6-18 2 In-Car Adjustments .. .. .. .. ..... .... .... ........ .... ..
6-19
3 Removal and Installation .... .. ..... . .. .... ...... ..... . 6-19
0
Section 4 Major Repair Operations .. .. ........ .. ...... ........ .. Disassembly .... .... .. .. ...... .... ........ .. .......... .... .. Replacement .. .... .. ..... .. .. ....... .. ........ .. .... .. .. .. .. Assembly ...... ... ... .... .. ...... ...... ...... .. .... .. .. ..
Page 6-20 6-20 6-20 6-20
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
DESCRIPTION
The 3 · 00 Model three-speed transmission is used for 6 cylinder engines and V8 engined vehicles. The designation 3 · 00 is the actual distance between the centreline of the countershaft and the centreline of the input shaft. A transmission service identification plate (Fig. 5, page 6-9 ) is located on the left side of the extension housing at the rear. The first line on the tag will show the transmission model and service identification code when required. This transmission is of the fully synchronized type, with all gears except the reverse gear and sleeve being in constant mesh. All forwardspeed changes are accomplished with synchronizer sleeves (Fig. 36) instead of sliding gears. The synchronizers enable quicker-shifts, eliminates gear clash and permit easy engagement of low gear at low vehicle speeds. The forward-speed gears are helical-cut and are in constant mesh (Fig. 36). Gears used in the reverse gear train are spur-cut and are not synchronized. Ball bearings support the input shaft and gear and the centre of the output shaft (Fig. 36). Roller bear-
2" ~ 3., SPEED
SYNCHRONIZER
l.r. SP EED 2 .. SPEED GE~. R
GEAR br S. REV ERSE / 5LI W IG SLEEVE & GEAR OUTPUT SHAF1 BEARING
INP UT SHAFT AND GE~ R
\ CLUSTER GEAR
FIG. 36-Gear Train Layout ings in the input shaft bore support the front of the output shaft. The countershaft gear (cluster gear) runs on three rows of roller bearings. A bronze bushing is used in the reverse idler gear on 6 cylinder and roller bearings for 8 cylinder. A bushing located at the rear of the extension housing supports the rear of the output shaft. Synchronizers and blocking rings
are the conventional tapered ring and straight clutch gear type (Fig. 17, page 6-l3and Fig. 39,page6:2l). The shift forks, detent mechanism, and related parts are provided in the transmission case (Fig. 37). OPERATION
When the first-speed gear is selected, the shift lever moves the reverse gear and sleeve forward and forces the synchronizer blocking ring coni-
PART 6-3-3 SPEED FULLY SYNCHRONISED MANUAL SHIFT
6-19
FIG. 37-Shift Mechanism Disassembled cal surface against the matching cone on the constant mesh first gear located on the output shaft. If the car is moving, the internal teeth of the reverse gear and sleeve blocking ring will not index until the constant mesh first gear is brought up or down to the speed of the reverse gear and sleeve which is rotating at output shaft speed. The reverse gear and sleeve has internal splines that, with further movement, will slide over the blocking ring and engage external clutch teeth on the constant mesh first gear. Since first gear is now locked to the output shaft and is always meshed with the countershaft (cluster) gear, the power flow is from the input gear, through the countershaft gear, to the constant mesh first gear,
FIG. 38-Powerflow through the reverse gear and sleeve to the output shaft, and out the rear of the transmission. Engagement of second and third gears is the same as first except for ratio. In third gear, the input gear and shaft is locked directly to the output shaft by the second and third speed synchronizer to provide a ratio of 1 : 1. Spur teeth are cut on the outside of the reverse gear and sleeve. The reverse gear and sleeve like the hub
are always locked to the output shaft. Reverse gear is engaged by sliding the reverse gear and sleeve into mesh with the reverse idler gear. The drive is then from the input gear, through the countershaft gear, to and through the reverse idler gear to the output shaft reverse gear and sleeve. The gears in this position will rotate the output shaft in a reverse direction. A system of interlocks and detents in the transmission case prevents the selection of more than one gear at a time and helps to hold any gear in the selected position.
EJ
IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS (See
EJ
REMOVAL AND I NSTALLATION (See page 6-11. )
page 6-10. )
6-20
rJ
GROUP 6-GENERAL TRANSMISSION SERVICE MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS
DJSASSEMBL Y 1. Mount the transm1ss1on in a holding fixture and drain the lubricant.
2. Remove the six cap screws that attach the cover to the case. Remove the cover and the gasket from the case.
case. Move the mainshaft assembly away from the gearshift forks.
in the cam shafts ("0" rings) or extracting them from the case (seals).
14. Move the first and reverse sleeve and gear forward into first speed position (do not move first and reverse gearshift fork out of neutral position).
INPUT SHAFT BEARING
15. Remove first and reverse gearshift fork.
3. Remove the six cap screws and
lock washers that attach the extension housing to the case. Remove the extension and gasket from the case.
16. Remove second and third speed gearshift fork.
4. Remove the three cap screws
17. Move the second and third speed synchro outer sleeve rearwards into second speed position.
and lock washers that attach the front bearing retainer to the case. Remove the retainer and gasket from the case. 5. Use a soft drift to knock the countershaft through from the front to allow the lock plate to be removed. Remove the lock plate. (Fig. 10, page 6-12 ). 6. Push countershaft out through rear of case with dummy countershaft tool No. 7111 C. (Fig. 11, page 6-12). Lower the countershaft and dummy shaft to the case bottom.
7. Remove the snap ring that secures the speedometer drive gear on the shaft. Slide the speedometer drive gear off the output shaft. Remove the speedometer drive gear drive ball from the shaft. 8. Pull out input shaft from front of case. Remove third speed blocker ring. (Fig. 12,page6-12). 9. Remove rear (output shaft) bearing outer snap ring. 10. . Move second and third speed
gearshift cam into third gear position.
11. From the underside of the case, knock out taper pins from each gearshift camshaft. (Fig. 13, page 6-12 ).
18. Remove output shaft assembly through top of gear case. 19. Knock out reverse idler gear and cluster gear assembly.
20. Remove the synchronizer snap ring from the front of the output shaft and slide off the second and third speed synchronizer assembly and the second gear with its blocker ring.
1. Remove the snap ring and spacer securing the input shaft bearing, and press the input shaft out of the bearing and oil slinger.
2. Remove the rollers (14) from the rear end of the input shaft. l<'RONT BEARING RETAINER SEAL
1. Remove the input shaft seal from the front bearing retainer as shown in Fig. 19, page 6·14
2. Install a new input shaft seal as shown in Fig. 20, page 6-14 SYNCHRONIZERS
1. Push the synchronizer hub from each synchronizer sleeve.
2. Separate the inserts and insert springs from the hubs. Do not mix the parts from the second and third speed synchronizer with the first and reverse synchronizer (Figs. 39, page 6-21 ).
Take note of the synchronizer assembly hub end positions for reference in assembly.
COUNTERSHAFT GEAR BEARINGS
21. Remove the output shaft bearing snap ring and spacer from the output shaft and remove the bearing. (Fig. 15,page 6-13).
1. Remove the dummy shaft, 66 roller bearings, and the 3 bearing retainer washers from the countershaft gear (Fig. 40).
22. Remove the first speed synchronizer and reverse gear assembly snap ring from the output shaft. Remove the synchronizer and gear assembly from the output shaft. REPLACEMENT CAM AND SHAFTS AND OIL SEALS
12. Push gearshift cam and shaft assemblies against the inside of the case.
1. Using a plastic hammer, drive the second and third cam and shaft toward the inside of the case and separate the detent balls and spring from !he plunger. Push out the cam and shaft assemblies, and remove the plunger.
13. Push the output shaft assembly forward so that the output shaft bearing moves through into the gear
2. · If required, the cam shaft oil seals or "0" rings may be replaced by removing them from their grooves
ASSEMBLY 1. Use grease to hold 1 ball in rear of interlock sleeve. Fit sleeve into case.
2. Lubricate shaft of first and reverse gearshift cam and shaft assembly. Fit cam and shaft assembly to case in neutral position (so that the interlock sleeve ball is in extended detent notch of the cam). 3. Lubricate shaft of second and third speed gearshift cam and shaft assembly. Fit the cam and shaft assembly to the case, pushing the cam against the side of the case so that the interlock sleeve hole is not blocked. 4. Fit interlock pin, spring and second ball. Move the cam and shaft
PART 6-3-3 SPEED FULLY SYNCHRONISED MANUAL SHIFT
6-21
FIG. 39-First and Reverse Synchronizer Disassembled CLUSTER GEAR BIMETAL THHUST It/ASHER
"'"" w'7 LARGE BIMETAL
STEEL THRUST WASHER
FIG. 4 1-Ciuster Gear in Case synchro spring groove of the inner hub at the same ends. Fit three first speed shifting plates into the hub slots, with plate pads in the recessed end of the hub. Fit two synchro springs under the shift plates, the white painted spring in the spring groove of the hub, the other ~n the hub end recess. Note that the springs are not identical. The spring tangs should locate on opposite sides of the same shift plate, so that the spring openings do not line up. (See Fig. 39). 10. Assemble second and third speed synchro as follows:
FIG. 40-Countershaft and Cluster Gear assembly into third gear position, so that extended detent notch of the cam retains the ball and spring. (Interlock sleeves are selectively fitted for axial movement of ·002 to ·010 in all gear selection positions. Three sizel' are available, refer specifications page 6-35). 5. 6 Cyl. Install lubricated reverse idler gear and bush assembly and shaft with bevelled ends of the gear teeth forward. Shaft must be inserted so that the locking groove is flush with the outside face of the gear case, and face towards the cluster gear shaft hole. Refer Fig. 22, page 6-15
6. 8 Cyl. Instali (22) needle rollers and (2) thrust washers with a dummy shaft. A dummy shaft can be made up from an old cluster shaft. Cut off at 1 inches.
nr
7. Assemble cluster gear, dummy countershaft (7111 C) and bearings as follows:
Insert dummy countershaft and spacer into cluster gear. Fit a set of
22 lubricated needle rollers at the front (largest gear end) of the cluster. Fit two sets of 22 lubricated needle rollers at the other end of the cluster, separating the rollers with cluster gear needle roller retainer was?er. Fit cluster gear needle roller rctamer washers at each end of the dummy countershaft, together with two thrust washers at the rear (small steel washer to cluster, engage tangs with slots in gears) (small bimetal to case, engage tangs with slot in case) of the cluster gear, and one thrust washer (large bimetal engage tang with slot in case) at the front end of the gear. These may be retained with grease (Refer Fig. 40). 8. Place cluster assembly in the bottom of the gear case, ensuring that the tabs of the thrust washers fit the grooves of the case (Fig. 41 ). 9. Assemble first and reverse speed synchro assembly as follows:
Lubricate synchro sleeve and reverse gear and fit to the inner hub with the teeth of the gear and the
Fit lubricated synchronizer sleeve to inner hub with sleeve selector groove and hub inner spline protrusion at opposite ends. Slide sleeve across hub until three second and third speed shift plates can be fitted into the slots in the inner hub. Fit two second and third speed synchro springs under the shift plates behind the pads. Note that the spring tangs should be located in the same shift plate. The springs should be installed with the free ends opposite. (Fig. 25, page 6--15 ). 11. Lubricate first speed gear bore and fit with blocker ring to output shaft. The back face of the gear should be against the rear face of the mainshaft shoulder. Fit first speed synchro and reverse gear sleeve assembly, and snap ring to output shaft with reverse gear sleeve teeth toward rear of case. Check end float; this should be within the limits ·006" to ·019''. Fit output shaft bearing, spacer, ·and snap ring, (Fig. 47), selecting snap ring to keep end float to a minimum (- 004 max.). Do not fit snap ring to outside diameter of output shaft bearing (Fig. 42).
6-22
GROUP
6-GENERAL TRANSMISSION SERVICE
FIG. 42-Checking First & Reverse Synchro Assembly End Float FIG. 44-0utput Shaft Assembly third and neutral positions are still held by the cams. Tilt the mainshaft assembly away from the camshafts.
FIG.4S-Checking End Float in Second & Third Speed Synchronizer 12. Lubricate second speed gear bore. Fit with blocker ring to output shaft so that back face of gear is against front face of output shaft shoulder. Second speed blocker rings are distinguished from the first speed blocker rings by narrower slots. The second speed blocker ring slots are · 356 to · 360 inches wide, the first speed blocker rings ·631 to · 641 wide. 13. Lubricate the second and third speed synchro assembly. Fit to the output shaft with the inner hub inner spline protrusion to the front of the gear case. Fit the snap ring and check that the end float is within limits ·003" to · 016". Refer Fig. 43. 14. Move the second and third speed synchro sleeve to engage second gear. Move the first and reverse synchro sleeve to engage first gear.
15. Fit the output shaft assembly into the transmission case through the top opening, but do not press shaft bearing into case. 16. Push the gearshift camshafts to the side of the case, ensuring that
17. Roll the gearshift forks into position in the camshaft assembly. (Fig. 45). The first and reverse fork is installed with its selector groove to the rear of the shank, and the second and third fork with the pad branded "T"upwards. Move the output shaft assembly so that the second and third speed fork lines up with the second and third speed synchro sleeve and continue moving until the groove in the first reverse fork lines up with the sleeve. Lift the output shaft assembly to engage the forks in the synchro sleeve and reverse sliding gear and sleeve. (Fig. 45). 18. Push camshaft assemblies into operating position and fit tapered retaining pins into case (use sealer on pins).
19. Pull output shaft rearwards entering the rear bearing into the case until the bearing outer snap ring can be fitted. Fit the oil slinger, input-shaft bearing (with outside snap ring installed), spacer ring and snap ring. Select snap ring to keep end float to a minimum within limits of · 000 to · 004. Assemble the oil slinger with tpe projection between gear teeth. · With grease, position the needle rollers (14 for 6 Cyl., 15 for 8 Cyl.) in the rear bore of the input shaft, and fit. (Do not use an excessive quantity of grease.)
2q. Fit the input shaft assembly to the case (Fig. 12, page 6-12 ). Ensure correct entry of the output shaft spigot.
21. Position the bearing retainer gasket with a light coating of grease and fit the bearing retainer and secure with three bolts and lock washers, tightening the bolts to 20-25 lb. ft. torque. (Use sealer on bolt threads).
22. Bring the cluster gear into mesh by carefully turning the gearbox upside down and allowing the cluster gear to drop into place. It may be necessary to rotate the input shaft to ensure proper meshing. 23. Enter the plain end of the countershaft from the rear of the case and drive out the dummy shaft until the locking plate slot in countershaft is flush with the outside rear face of the case. The slots in the countershaft and the reverse idler shaft must be parallel and adjacent. Fig. 34, page 6-17. 24. Fit the locking plate to the slots in the counter shaft and reverse idler shaft. Tap the ends of both shafts to bring the plate firmly against the case. (Fig. 10, page 6-12 ). 25. Measure the extension housing rear bushing inside diameter. If the size is not in the range 1· 3745 to 1· 3755, fit a new bushing to the extension housing. 26. Fit a new extension housing seal using tool 7657G for 6 Cyl. and tool T61L-7657-A for 8 Cyl. 27. Position the extension housing gasket with a light coating of grease. Install the extension housing with six bolts and lock washers, tighten to 45-55 lbs. ft. torque, use sealer on bolt threads. 28. Fit both gearshift levers with
PART 6-3-3 SPEED FULLY SYNCHRONISED MANUAL SHIFT
FIG. 45-Selector Cam Shafts, Levers, Forks & Interlock Assembly
FIG. 46-0utput Shaft Assembly Installed in Gear Case
6-23
FIG. 47-lnstalling Output Shaft Bearing
lockwashers and nuts, tightening to 20-25 lbs. ft. torque. (Large lever to the front camshaft, small to the rear).
31. Fit the steel filler plug and brass magnetic drain plug. Tightening to 20-25 lbs. ft. torque.
29. If removed install a new welsh plug in the front face of the case, ensuring that it does not project above the case face, Fig. 45 .
32. If it is necessary to fit a new breather in the extension housing it must be fitted with the flat on the breather body on the left hand side and parallel with the centre line of the transmission. (Fig. 35,Page 6-17).
30. Position the top cover gasket, install the top cover, tighten the six bolts and lock washers to 8-12lbs. ft. torque. Use sealer on bolt threads.
33. Check transmission operation in all gear positions.
6-24
PART 6·4
4-SPEED FULLY SYNCHRONIZED MANUAL TRANSMISSION
Section Page 1 Description and Operation ................. 6-24 Description ............................. 6-24 Operation ............................... 6-24 2 In-Car Adjustment and Repairs ............. 6-25 Gear Shift Linkage Adjustments ........... 6-25 3 Removal and Installation .................. 6-2S Removal ............................... 6-25 Installation .............................. 6-26 4 Major Repair Operations ................. 6-27
D
Section Paae Disassembly ............................. 6-29 Parts Repair or Replacement .............. 6-29 Gear Shift Lever ....................... 6· 32 Synchronizers ......................... 6-33 Input Shaft Bearing .................... 6-31 Countershaft Gear Bearings .............. 6-31 Assembly ............................... 6- 32
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
DESCRIPTION The Ford designed 4-speed transmission (Fig. 48) is of the fully synchronized type with all gears except the reverse sliding gear being in constant mesh. All forward-speed changes are accomplished with synchronizer sleeves. The synchronizers will enable quicker shifts, greatly reduce gear clash, and permit downshifting into any forward-speed gear while the vehicle is moving. The shift linkage is mounted directly on the extension housing (Fig. 50) and enters the driver's compartment through an opening in the floor pan. A flexible rubber dust boot
(Fig. 50) is provided to seal the driver's compartment from the exterior. The shift pattern is shown on the top of the gear shift lever knob. A safety measure is incorporated in the shift mechanism which prevents accidental engagement of reverse gear, this consists of a spring which resists movement of the lever from the neutral position, reverse being selected by moving the lever against, and over-riding the spring tension. All forward-speed gears in the transmission are helical-type, however, the reverse sliding gear and the exterior of the first- and second-speed syn-
FIG. 41-Four-speed Transmission-Typical
chronizer sleeve are spur-type gears. A transmission service identification tag is located on the right side of the case at the front. The first line on the tag will show the transmission model and service identification code when required. The second line will show the transmission serial number. OPERATION In first-speed (Figure 49), the firstand second-speed synchronizer sleeve is moved rearward by the shift fork. The sleeve engages the first-speed blocking ring, which acts as a cone clutch applied to the free-wheeling first-speed gear. This action speeds up or slows down the first-speed gear
PART 6-4-4-SPEED FULLY SYNCHRONIZED MANUAL TRANSMISSION to match the speed of the output shaft. Further movement of the sleeve locks the first- and secondspeed synchronizer hub to ·the firstspeed gear by means of internal splines. On engagement of the·clutch, power flows through the input shaft and gear to the meshed countershaft gear and thence to the first-speed gear. This gear transmits the power through the locked synchronizer hub to the transmission output shaft. All the other forward-speed gears are in idler motion, as they are all driven by the countershaft (cluster) gear, but they do not transmit power because they are not locked to the output shaft. All the forward-speed shifts are made in the same manner as the first-speed shift, due to the constant-mesh features. Reverse gear is engaged by moving the reverse sliding gear forward on the reverse idler gear until it meshes with the external teeth (spur-type) of the first- and second-speed synchronizer sleeve. Movement of the sliding gear is accomplished by the centre shaft lever. With all forward-speed synchronizer sleeves in neutral, power flow in reverse is through the input shaft to the constant-mesh countershaft (cluster) gear, thence to the constant-mesh reverse idler. Splines then carry the power through the reverse sliding gear to the first- and second-speed synchronizer sleeve which is locked to the output shaft. As the reverse sliding gear is meshed with the synchronizer sleeve, power is transmitted to the output shaft, rotating it in a reverse direction.
EJ
SECOND SPEED GEAR FIRST AND SECOND SPEED SYNCHRONIZER
REVERSE SLIDING GEAR
NOTE: All HELICAl GEARS IN CONSTANT MESH WITH COUNTERSHAFT GEAR
FIG. 49-Power Flow
IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
SHIFT LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT
1. Loosen the three shift linkage and adjustment nuts. Install a t" diameter alignment tool through the control bracket and levers as shown in Fig. 50
EJ
6-25
An alignment tool can be made from t" diameter drill rod bent to an "L" shape. The extensions should be 1W' and 3W' from the elbow. Long end of alignment pin should be inserted into control bracket and linkage holes until it bottoms.
2. Tighten the three linkage adjustment nuts and then remove the alignment pin. 3. Check the gear shift lever for a smooth cross-over.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
REMOVAL
1. Remove gear shift control lever knob. 2. Remove the console and or dust seal and retainer (Fig. 50). 3. Remove the three gear shift control lever mounting bolts and remove the lever.
4. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. 5. Disconnect the drive shaft from the rear U-joint flange. Slide the drive shaft off the transmission output shaft and install the extension housing seal installation tool into the extension housing to prevent lubricant leakage. 6. Disconnect
the
speedomett.
cable from the extension housing. 7. Disconnect the parking brake cable from the equalizer lever and separate the lever from the crossmember. 8. Remove the hairpin retainer securing the cable to the transmission rear support crossmember, and then pull the cable assembly forward and out of the crossmember.
6-26
GROUP
6-GENERAL TRANSMISSION SERVICE
*
* With console on'ly. FIG. 50 Installation Gear Shift Linkage 9. Support the engine with a transmission jack and remove the extension housing-to-engine rear support attaching bolts.
.Note: Do not depress the clutch pedal while the transmission is removed.
10. Raise the rear of the engine high enough to remove the weight from the crossmember. Remove the bolts. retaining the crossmember to the frame side supports and remove the cross member.
INSTALLATION
11. Support the transmission on a jack and remove the bolts that attach the transmission to the flywheel housing. 12. On 6 cylinder vehicles move the transmission and jack rearward until the transmission input shaft clears the flywheel housing. If necessary, lower the engine . enough to obtain clearance for transmission removal. 13. On 8 cylinder vehicles it will be necessary to disconnect the transmission shift rods from the control assembly, remove the control assembly mounting bolts and the control or lower the muffler inlet pipe before lowering the transmission.
1. Make sure that the mounting surface of the transmission and the flywheel housing are free of dirt, paint, and burrs. Install two guide pins in the flywheel housing lower mounting bolt holes. Move the transmission forward on the guide pins until the input shaft splines enter the clutch hub splines and the case is positioned against the flywheel housing. 2. Install the two upper tr~smis sion to flywheel housing, mounting bolts snug, and then remove die two guide pins. Install the two lower mounting bolts. Torque all mounting bolts to specifications. 3. Raise the rear of the engine and install the crossmember. Install and torque the crossmember attaching bolts to specifications, then lower the engine.
0 Without console. 4. With the transmission extension housing resting on the engine rear support, install the transmission extension housing attaching bolts. Torque the bolts to specifications. 5. Secure each shift rod to its respective lever with the spring washer, flat washer, and retaining pin. AN ALIGNMENT TOOL CAN BE MADE FROM 1/4" DIAMETER DRILL ROD BENT TO AN "L" SHAPE. THE EXTENSIONS SHOULD BE 1 - 1/2" AND 3 • 3/4" FROM THE ELBOW. LONG END OF ALIGNMENT TOOL SHOULD BE INSERTED INTO CONTROL BRACKET AND LINKAGE HOLES UNTIL IT BOTTOMS.
PART 6-4-4-SPEED FULLY SYNCHRONIZED MANUAL TRANSMISSION 6. Guide the parking brake cable assembly through the hole in the transmission rear support crossmember. Secure the cable assembly to the crossmember with the hairpin retainer. 7. Insert the parking brake front cable in the equalizer and install the equalizer in the bracket on the crossmember. Secure the parking brake rear cable to the equalizer. 8. Connect the speedometer cable to the extension housing. 9. Remove the extension housing seal installation tool and slide the for-
EJ
ward end of the drive shaft over the transmission output shaft. Connect the drive shaft the rear U-joint flange.
fo
10. On 6 cylinder vehicles attach the gear shift control lever using three mounting bolts. 11. Install the gear lever dust boot, retainer and console where fitted . 12. On 8 cylinder vehicles where the gear shift control has been re· moved from the transmission, place both forward gear shift levers and the reverse shift lever in the neutral position and insert a ~ inch diameter
6-27
alignment tool in the shift linkage alignment hole (Fig. 51). Attach the shift rods to the gear shift control levers. Adjust the linkage as necessary and tighten the adjustment nuts to specifications. Remove the alignment tool. 11. Fill the translDlSSlon to the proper level with the specified lubricant.
12. Lower the car. Check the shift and crossover motion for full shift engagement and smooth crossover operation.
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS
GEAR SHIFT CONTROL ASSEMBLY
port shaft upright in a vice.
REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY
3. Assemble parts to the support shaft in the following order (Fig. 51) a. wave washer b. shift lever outer support c. wave washer d. 3rd & 4th shift lever e. 1st & 2nd shift lever f. shift lever retainer g. shift lever spacer (long) h. gear shift lever j. reverse shift lever k. shift lever inner support l. shift lever spacer (short) m. shift lever trunion n. flat washer o. support shaft retaining nut.
1. Remove the gear·lever knob. 2. For vehicles fitted with centre console, remove the three screws securing the console and remove the console. 3. Remove the gear lever, dust boot and surround (Fig.50). 4. Remove the three bolts from the gear shift control lever and remove the lever. S. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. 6. Disconnect the shift rods by undoing the nuts at the rear ends of the rods. 7. Remove the reversing light switch from the gear shift control assembly. 8. Remove the three mounting bolts and washers,gear shift assembly to transmission extension housing and remove the control assembly. 9. Remove the two clamping bolts and nuts which retain the outer and inner supports and the lever retainer. 10. Remove the retaining nut and washer from the gear shift lever sup· port shaft and withdraw the shaft. 11. Clean and inspect all parts for wear or damage particularly the wave washers. REASSEMBLY ANDINSTALLATION
1. Lubricate all mating parts with ESA-MIC75-B grease during assembly. 2. Clamp the gear shift lever sup·
4. Install the two control assembly clamping bolts and nuts and torque to 8-13 ft. lbs. S. Torque the gear shift lever sup· port shaft nut to 13-18 ft. lbs. 6. Install the gear shift control assembly on the transmission extension housing and torque the three bolts to 12-15 ft. lbs. 7. Install the reversing light switch. 8. Place both forward gear shift levers and. the reverse shift lever in the neutral position and insert the ~ inch diameter alignment tool in the shift linkage alignment hole (Fig. 51) 9. Position the transmission shift levers in the neutral position and connect the shift rods to their respective gear shift control levers and torque the nuts. 10. Remove the gear shift lever alignment tool and adjust the reverse light switch.
11. Lower the vehicle and install the gear shift control lever. 12. Install the dust boot and surround. 13. Install the console (if fitted). 14. Install the gear shift control lever knob. 15. Check the gear shift operation.
GROUP
6-28
6-GENERAL TRANSMISSION SERVICE
"'
21--.. . .
SHIFT LEVER ALIGNMENT HOLE
1
22
12 13 11'------14 15
~3 ucr1011 C
~--16
FIG. 51 Gear Shift Control Assembly DESCRIPTION 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23.
SpringLeverTrunionSupport AssySpacerWasherShaftDetentSupportRetainerLeverLeverWasherWasherPinSleeveLeverSpacerWasherNutRetainerBolt &NutGrommet-
Transmission gear shift lever detent Transmission gear shift Transmission gear shift lever Transmission gear shift lever inner Transmission gear shift lever (long) 1/2 wave spring Transmission gear shift lever support Transmission gear shift control lever Transmission gear shift lever outer Transmission gear shift lever Transmission gear shift contro11st & 2nd Transmission gear shift control 3rd· & 4th Spring 3/8 flat 3/32 x 5/8 cotter Transmission gear shift control rod adjusting Transmission gear shift control reverse Transmission gear shift lever trunion 3/8 flat 3/8- 16 unc hex. shift lever trunion Support clamping Gear shift control mounting.
PART 6-4-4-SPEED FULLY SYNCHRONIZED MANUAL TRANSMISSION TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY DISASSEMBLY
1. Mount the transm1ss1on in a holding fixture and drain the lubricant. 2. Remove the cover attaching screws from the case. Lift the cover and gasket from the case. 3. Remove the extension housing attaching screws and lock washers. Remove the housing and the gasket. 4. Remove the input shaft bearing retainer attaching screws. Slide the retainer off the input shaft. 5. Support the countershaft gear with a wire hook. Working from the front of the case, push the countershaft out the rear of the case as shown in Fig. 52. Lower the countershaft gear to the bottom of the case with the wire hook. Remove the hook.
the third- and fourth-speed shift rail from the front of the case. Do not lose the interlock pin from the shift rail. 10. Remove the set screw from the first- and second-speed shift fork. Slide the first- and second-speed shift rail out the rear of the case. 11. Remove the interlock pin and the detent plug from the top of the case (Fig. 53) with a magnet. 12. Remove the snap ring that secures the speedometer drive gear to the output shaft. Slide the gear off the shaft, then remove the speedometer gear drive ball. 13. Remove the snap ring that secures the output shaft bearing to the shaft.
6-29
14. Remove the output shaft bearing as shown in Fig. 54. 15. Remove the input shaft and bearing and the blocking ring from the front of the case. 16. Move the output shaft to the right side of the case to provide clearance for the shift forks. Rotate the forks as shown in Fig. 55 then lift them from the case. 17. Support the thrust washer and first-speed gear to prevent them from sliding off the shaft, then lift the output shaft assembly from the case as shown in Fig. 56. 18. Remove the reverse gear shift fork set screw. Rotate the reverse shift rail 90° as shown in Fig. 57. Slide the shift rail out the rear of the
;...-SET SCREW a-SPRING
6. Place the first- and second-speed gear shift lever and the reverse shift lever in the neutral position. Place the third- and fourth-speed gear shift lever in the third-speed position. 7. Remove the bolt that retains the third- and fourth-speed shift rail detent spring and the plug in the left side of the case as shown in Fig. 53. Remove the spring and the plug with a magnet. 8. Remove the detent mechanism set screw from the top of the case. Remove the detent spring and plug with a small magnet.
DETENT PLUG+{j ' INTERLOCK PIN'i)
SCREW~ THIRD AND FOURTH SPEED SHIFT RAIL
DETENT PLUG
,:;;,~; ;,,~--
DETENT PLUG-{)
9. Remove the attaching screw from the third- and fourth-speed shift fork. Tap on the inner end of the shift rail to unseal the expansion plug from the front of the case. Then withdraw
REVERSE SHIFT RAIL
REVERSE SHIFT FORK
SPRING--u
EXPANSION PLUG
Tooi· -T64P.nii·A COUNTERSHAFT
FIG. 52-Removing Counter-
shaft from Case
I
®-MAGNETIC DRAIN PLUG
FIG. 53-Shift Rails and Forks Disassembled
6-30
GROUP
6-GENERAL TRANSMISSION SERVICE
case. Lift the reverse shift fork from the case.
synchronizer, blocking ring and the first-speed gear off the shaft.
19. Remove the reverse detent plug and spring from the case with a magnet.
26. Remove the thrust washer, first-speed gear and blocking ring from the rear of the shaft. The first and reverse synchronizer hub is a press fit on the output shaft. To eliminate the possibility of damaging the synchronizer assembly, remove the synchronizer hub using an arbor press as shown in Fig. 69. Do not attempt to remove or install the hub by hammering or prying.
20. Remove the reverse idler gear shaft from the case as shown in Fig. 58. 21. Lift the reverse idler gear and the thrust washers from the case. Be careful not to drop the bearings and the dummy shaft from the gear. 22. Lift the countershaft gear and the thrust washers from the case. Be careful not to drop the bearings or the dummy shaft from the counter-shaft gear.
FIG. 56-Removing Output
Shaft Assembly
23. Remove the snap ring from the front of the output shaft. Slide the third- and fourth-speed synchronizer (Fig. 59) blocking ring and the third· speed gear off the shaft. 24. Remove the next snap ring and the second-speed gear thrust washer from the shaft. Slide the secondspeed gear and the blocking ring off the shaft. 25. Remove the next snap ring, then slide the first- and second-speed
FIG. 55-Removing Shift
Fork From Case Tool- T52T-6500-DJD
FIG. 57 -Rotating Reverse a,.
j
+~
Shift Rail :::;;_,
s \'
i
!ii:o
FIG. 58 -Removing Reverse FIG. 54-Removing Output Shaft Bearing
Idler Gear Shaft
PART 6-4-4-SPEED FULLY SYNCHRONIZED MANUAL TRANSMISSION
6-31
OUTPUT SHAFT
a.-- SPEEDOMETER
GEAR DRIVE BALL
SNAP R:NG
THRUST WASHER
kOC"NG RIN:IRD
~W ~ ~ GEAA
I
~b ~i r
lllOCKING RING
FIRST AND SECOND SPEED SYNCHRONIZER
BlOCKING RING
SECOND SPEED GEAR
SN.AP RING
C1529-C
FIG. 59 -Output Shaft Disassembled CAM AND SHAFT SEALS
INPUT SHAFT BEARING
1. Remove the attaching nut, lock washer and the flat washer from each shift lever and remove the three levers. 2. Remove the three cam and shafts from inside the case. 3. Remove the 0-ring from each cam and shaft (Fig. 60A) and discard the 0-rings. 4. Dip the new 0-rings in gear lubricant and install them on the cam and shafts. 5. Slide each cam and shaft into its respective bore in the transmission case. 6. Position a shift lever on each cam and ~haft and secure with a flat washer, lock washer and nut.
1. Remove the snap ring that secures the bearing to the shaft (Fig. 60B). 2. Press the input shaft gear out of the bearing as shown in Fig. 61. 3. Press a new bearing onto the input shaft with the tool shown in Fig. 61. 4. Secure the bearing with a snap ring. SYNCHRONIZERS
1. Push the synchronizer hub from each synchronizer sleeve (Fig. 64). 2. Separate the inserts and insert springs from the hubs. Do not mix the parts of the first- and second-
speed synchronizer with the thirdand fourth-speed sym:hronizer. 3. Position the hub in the sleeve, making sure that the alignment marks are properly indexed. 4. Place the three inserts into place on the hub. Install the insert springs making sure that the irregular surface (hump) is seated in one of the inserts. Do not stagger the springs. COUNTERSHAFTGEAR BEARINGS
1. Remove the dummy shaft, two bearing retainer washers, and the 21 roller bearings (Fig. 65) from eac}l end of the countershaft gear. 2. Coat the bore in each end of the countershaft gear with grease. 3. Hold the dummy shaft in the
GROUP
6-32
6-GENERAL TRANSMISSION SERVICE gear off the reverse idler gear (Fig. 66). 2. Remove the dummy shaft, two bearing retainer washers and the 44 roller bearings from the reverse idler gear. 3. Coat the bore in each end of the reverse idler gear with grease.
gear and install the 21 roller bearings and a retainer washer in each end of the gear. REVERSE IDLER GEAR BEARINGS
1. Slip the reverse idler sliding REVERSE GEAR CAM ANDSHAF T
~
4. Hold the dummy shaft in the gear and install the 22 roller bearings and the retainer washer in each end of the gear. 5. Install the reverse idler sliding gear on the reverse idler gear making sure that the shift fork groove is toward the front (Fig. 66).
FIR ST AND SECOND SPEED CAM AND SHAFT /
~ ~
Too/-7025 -G OR 7025-B
5
FIR ST AND SECOND SPEED SHIFT LEVER
~~@@~
SPEED CAM AND SHAFT I
~m}
FIG. 60A -Gear Shift Lever Disassembled-Typical ROLLER BEARINGS
INPUT SHAFT AND
1
rrv '
I
BEARING SNAP RINGS
BLOCKING RING
FIG. 608 -Input Shaft Gear Disassembled
·
INSTALLATION
FIG. 61 -Input Shaft Bearing
(Removal and Installation)
INPUT SHAFT SEAL
1. Remove the seal from the input shaft bearing retainer as shown in Fig. 62. 2. Coat the sealing surface with lubricant. 3. Install the seal as shown in Fig. 63. ASSEMBLY 1. Coat the countershaft gear thrust surfaces in the case with a thin film of lubricant and position a thrust washer (Fig. 65) at each end of the case.
FIG. 62 -Removing Input Shaft Seal
PART 6-4-4-SPEED FULLY SYNCHRONIZED MANUAL TRANSMISSION 2. Position the countershaft gear, dummy shaft, and roller bearings in the case. 3. Place the case in a vertical position. Align the gear bore and the thrust washers with the bores in the case and install the countershaft. 4. Place the case in a horizontal position and check the countershaft gear end play with a feeler gauge. The end play should be 0 · 004-0 · 018 within specification. If not within these limits, replace the thrust washers. 5. After establishing the correct end play, install the dummy shaft in the countershaft gear and allow the gear to remain at the bottom of the case.
INSERT!SPRING
FIRST AND SECOND SPEED SYNCHRONIZER
ETCH MARKS INSERT SPRING
6. Coat the reverse idler gear thrust
surfaces in the case with a thin film of lubricant and position the two thrust washers (Fig. 66) in place .. 7. Position the reverse idler gear, sliding gear, dummy shaft and the roller bearings in place making sure that the shift fork groove in the sliding gear is towards the front of the case. 8. Align the gear bore and thrust washers with the case bores and install the reverse idler shaft. 9. ~easure the reverse idler gear end play with a feeler gauge. End play should be within specification. If the end play is not within limits, replace the thrust washers. If the end play is within limits, leave the reverse idler gear installed. 10. Position the reverse gear shift rail detent spring and detent plug in the case. Hold the reverse shift fork in place on the revers<.: idler sliding gear and install the shift rail from the rear of the case. Secure the fork to the rail with the Allen head setscrew.
FIG. 63 -Installing Input
Shaft Seal
6-33
~
INSERT SPRING
"""'(
"v
GROOVE TO FACE TOWARD FRONT OF TRANSMISSION THIR'D AND FOURTH SPEED SYNCHRONIZER
FIG. 64 -Synchronizers Disassembled 11. Install the first- and secondspeed synchronizer onto the front of the output shaft (Fig. 69) making sure that the shift fork groove is toward the rear of the shaft. The first and reverse synchronizer hub is a press fit on the output shaft. To eliminate the possibility of damaging the synchronizer assembly, install the synchronizer hub with the teeth end of the gear facing toward the rear of the shaft, using an arbor press as shown in Fig. 69. Do not attempt to remove or install the hub by hammering or prying. 12. Position the blocking ring on the second-speed gear. 13. Slide the second-speed ·gear onto the front of the shaft, making sure that the inserts in the synchronizer engage the notches in the blocker ring. 14. Install the second-speed gear thrust washer and snap ring. 15. Slide the third-speed gear onto the shaft with the synchronizer coned surface toward the front. 16. Place a blocking ring on the third-speed gear. 17. Slide the third- and fourthspeed gear synchronizer onto the
shaft making sure that the inserts in the synchronizer engage the notches in the blocking ring. 18. Install the snap ring on the front of the output shaft. 19. Position the blocking ring on the first-speed gear. . 20. Slide the first-gear speed onto the rear of the output shaft making sure that the notches in the blocking ring engage the synchronizer inserts. 21. Install the heavy thrust washer on the rear of the output shaft. 22. Support the thrust washer and first-speed gear to prevent them from ~liding off the shaft and carefully lower the output shaft assembly into the case as shown in Fig. 56. 23. Position the first- and secondspeed shift fork and the third- and fourth-~peed shift fork in place on their respective gears and rotate them into place. 24. Place a detent plug (Fig. 53) in the detent bore. Place the reverse shift rail into neutral position. 25. Coat the third- and fourthspeed shift rail interlock pin with grease and position it in the shift rail. 26. Align the third- and fourthspeed shift fork with the shift rail
6-34
GROUP 6-GENERAL TRANSMISSION SERVICE
bores and slide the sl>ift rail into place making sure that the three detents are facing toward the outside of the case. Place the front synchronizer into ,third-speed position and install the set screw in the third- and fourthspeed shift fork. Move the synchronizer to the neutral position. Install the third- and fourth-speed shift r~ detent plug, spring and bolt in the left side of the transmission case (Fig. 53). Place the interlock plug (tapered ends) in the detent bore. 27. Align the first- and secondspeed shift fork with the case bores and slide the shift rail into place. Secure the fork with the set screw. Install the detent plug and spring in
the detent bore. Thread the set screw to specification. 28. Coat the input gear bore with a thin film of grease, then install the 15 roller bearings in the bore. A thick film of grease could plug the lubricant holes and restrict lubrication of the bearings. 29. Position the front blocking ring in the third- and fourth-speed synchronizer. Place the input shaft gear in the transmission case making sure that the output shaft pilot enters the roller bearings in the input gear. 30. Place a new gasket on the input shaft bearing retainer. Dip the attaching bolts in sealer and install COUNTERSHAFT
RETAINER WASHER
THRUST WASHER
j~·'
\
'
' RETAINER WASHER
COUNTERSHAFT GEAR
~ROLlfR ......
BEARINGS
FIG. 65 -Countershaft Bearing Disassembled REVERSE IDLER GEAR SHAFT
REVERSE IDLER GEAR
FIG. 56-Reverse Idler Gear DisaSsembled
and tighten them to specifications. 31. Install the output shaft bearing as shown in Fig. 67. Install the snap ring to retain the bearing. 32. Position the speedometer gear drive ball in the output shaft ana slide the gear into place. Secure the gear with the snap ring. 33. Place the transmission in a vertical position as shown in Fig. 68. Align the countershaft gear bore and thrust washers with the bore in the case. Install the countershaft. 34. Use a new gasket and secure the extension housing to the case with the attaching screws. Use a sealer on the extension housing attaching screws. Torque the screws to specifications.
PART 6-4-4-SPEED FULLY SYNCHRONIZED MANUAL TRANSMISSION 35. Install the filler and drain plugs in the case if they were removed. Make sure that the magnetic plug is installed in the bottom of the case.
--·- ---
36. Pour the specified lubricant over the entire gear train while rotating the input shaft. 37. Place each shift fork in all positions to make sure that they operate properly. 38. Use a new cover gasket and install the cover. Coat the cover attaching screws with sealer and install and tighten them to specifications. 39. Coat the third- and fourthspeed shift rail plug bore with a sealer and install a new expansidh plug.
40. If the extension housing bushing and seal are to be replaced, refer to page 6-7.
j
FIG. 67 -Installing Output Shaft Bearing
SYNCHRONIZER
IHST ALLA TIOH
FIG. 68 -Installing
FIG. 69 -Removing and Installing First and
Countershaft
Reverse Synchronizer
6-35
6-36
PART 6-5
SPECIFICATIONS
GEAR RATIOS
Transmission Series
199333 6 Cyl. 199332 6 Cyl. 199331 8 Cyl. Transmission Series 4 - Speed Manual
First Gear
Second Gear
Third Gear
Reverse Gear
2.95 : I 2.95 : I
1.69 : I 1.69: I
1.00: I 1.00: I
3 . 80 : 1
2.71 : I
1.69 : I
1.00 : I
3 . 367 : 1
3 . 67 : 1
First Gear
Second Gear
Third Gear
Fourth Gear
Reverse Gear
2 . 78 : 1
1 . 93 : 1
1 . 36: 1
1 . 00 : 1
2 . 78 : 1
SPECIFIED CLEARANCES (Ins.) 3-speed First Speed Gear End Float (Series 130033 only)
0.006 0.006 0.000 0.000
Second Speed Gear End Float Input Shaft Bearing End Float Output Shaft Bearing End Float Interlock Sleeve (a ll Four Gear Positions)
- 0.0 19 - 0,019 - 0.004 - 0.004
\'v' ith one cam in neutral and the othe r in gear there must be 0.002 min. to 0.0 I 0 max. axial movement of t he interlock slee ve
SPECIFIED CLEARANCES (Ins.) 4-speed Countershaft Gear End Play
0.004-0 .018
Reverse Idler Gear End Play
0 .004 -0.018
SELECTIVE COMPONENTS (Ins.) 3-speed
0.086 0.089 0.092 0.095
Inpu t Sha ft Bea r ing Sna p Ring Th ickne ss , and O utp ut Shaf t Bea r ing Snap Ring Thickn ess
1.292 - I .294 I .297 - I .299 1.302 - 1.304
In t erl ock Sleeve A vai lable Leng t hs
NEEDLE ROLLER BEARINGS 3-speed Cou nter Shaft Ge ar
- 0.088 - 0.091 - 0.094 - 0.09/
3 Sets of 22 Roll ers
Input Sh aft 6 cyl.
14 Rolle rs
Input Shaft 8 cyl.
1 5 Rollers
RP.verse Idler Shaft 8 cyl.
22 Rollers
GROUP
6-GENERAL TRANSMISSION SERVICE
TORQUES {Lbs-Ft.) 3-speed
44-55 8 - 12 20 - 25 20-25 20 - 25 20-25
Extension Housing to Case Bolts Transmission Cover Retain ing Bolts Input Bearing Retainer Bolts Operating Lever Retaining Nuts Drain Plug (Magnetic) Filler Plug TORQUES (Lbs. Ft.) 4-speed Input Shaft Bearing Retainer to Transmission Cas.e
19-25
Extension Housing to Transmission Case
42-50
Access Cover to Transmission Case
14-19
Gearshift Lever to Cam and Shaft
18-23
Shift Fork to Shift Rail
10-18
Filler Plug to Case
10-20 Flush to 0.020" below surface
Detent Set Screw (special)
Third and Fourth Shift Rail Detent Bolt
10-18
Transmission to Flywheel Housing Bolts
37-42
·-
LUBRICATION 3-speed Ford Specification
ESW- M2C37
Type
SAE30
Capacity Imp. Pints 1 30032 Series
3 . 13
1 30033 Series Falcon
2 .7
130033 Ser1es Fairlane
3 .0
LUBRICATION 4-speed Capacity (Imp. Pts.)
Type
SAE80 (ESW-M2C-83B)
3%
ASSEMBLY SPECIFICATION 3-speed Breother AsseMbly
Flat on side of Breather Body must be on right hand side of Extension Housing (Filler Plug side) and parallel with centre line of Transmission within 5°
6-37
REFERENCE TO SERVICE INFORMATION AND NOTES Date
Letter No.
Page
Brief Detail
-
·---
-
FALCON FAIRLANE w~:~~~~P
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
GROUP 7
PAGE
PART 7-1- Borg-Warner Automatic Transmission
7-2
PART 7-2- C4 Automatic Transmission
7-37
PART 7-3- F.M.X. Automatic Transmission
7-82
PART 7-4- Specifications
7-122
7-2
PART 7-1
BORG-WARNER AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Section 1 Description and operation
Page 7- 2 7-2 7-3 7-4 7-6 7-11
Torque converter Transmission Control system Hydraulic circuits and power flow 2 Diagnosis and testing
0
Section
Pare 7-20 7-21 7-25
3 In car adjustments Table of shift speeds 4 Cleaning and inspection 5 Removal and installation 6 Major repair operations
7-26 7-26
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
The automatic transmission consists of a torque converter and a hydraulically controlled epicycle gearbox which provides three forward gears and one reverse. The torque converter is an "open" type which means that the drive through converter is by means of the hydraulic fluid circulating therein. This gives good flexibility in top gear which can be engaged at low road speed with ligh~ t~ottle op~ning. Economic operation 1s thus achieved. The automatic transmission has a planetary gear set consisting of 2 sun gears, 2 sets of 3 planet pinior;ts contained within 1 planetary earner and 1 ring gear. The various speed ratios are obtained by holding or clutching various combinations of elements of the planetary train, and this is performed by two bands, two multi disc clutches, and a one way clutch. A gear type oil pump driven by the engine is employed for supplying the hydraulic control system. The engines on vehicles equipped with automatic transmission cannot be started by pushing or towing the vehicle. . A selector lever may be mounted on the steering column or on the floor, the range chosen showing in the quadrant located above the steering wheel centre or on the floor console. The transmission has six positions on the selector quadrant and allows for fully automatic or manually controlled gear changes. 'P'- (Park) 'R'- (Reverse) 'N' - (Neutral)
FIG. 1 - CRUIS-0-MA TIC 'D' - (Normal Drive Position) Car starts in first gear and automatically shifts to second and third gears. '2' - Second gear - Car starts and remains in second gear. '1' - First gear - Car starts and remains in first gear. When a shift to '1' is made from 'D' or '2' with throttle closed the car will remain in second gear until approximately 17 mph before shifting to low gear. A part throttle downshift has been incorporated in this transmission to make it sensitive to torque demand.
The three elements in the torque converter are an impeller driven by the engine and a turbine or rotor attached to the transmission input shaft, as in a fluid flywheel, plus a stator mounted on a sprag type oneway clutch between the impeller and the turbine. The stator can only revolve in the same direction as the impeller. When starting from rest only the impeller revolves and fluid is thrown outwards by centrifugal force through the impeller vanes and is directed into the turbine thus causing the turbine to rotate as well (see Fig. 3). The fluid passes through the turbine vanes and is directed backwards into the stator which remains stationarv as it cannot revolve in the reverse direction against the one-way clutch. The direction of the fluid passing through the stator vanes is changed and on
TOWING
Important. Should it be necessary to tow a vehicle fitted with an Automatic Transmission, the drive shaft must be disconnected or the rear end of the car suspended, otherwise subsequent failure of the transmission will occur. TORQUE CONVERTER
The drive from the engine to the transmission is by means of a three element hydrokinetic torque converter which provides an infinitely variable torque multiplication between 2: 1, . when starting from rest or during maximum acceleration, and 1:1, when the engine and transmission input shaft speeds are approximately the same. Under the latter condition the torque converter performs the same function as a fluid flywheel.
DEPRESS KNOB TO SHIFT
FIG. 2 - Floor Shift Typical
PART 7-1
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (Borg-Warner)
7-3
\
'II I
I I
I
FIG. 3 - Torque Converter Operation re-entering the impeller assists in driving it, thus providing a torque multiplication. As the turbine speed increases, the fluid ftow angle from the turbine vanes changes, until at a speed differential of approximately ninety per cent of the impeller the stator is driven in the same direction as the turbine and the impeller. The torque converter then adopts the characteristics of a fluid flywheel and there is no torque multiplication. The torque converter fitted to the Falcon has a nominal diameter of 11 in.
the forward sun gear, in reverse power enters through the reverse sun gear, power leaving the gear set in each case by the ring gear. For forward gears the double set of pinions is used, but in reverse a single set is used so causing the ring gear to rotate in the opposite direction to the sun gear. The various mechanical ratios of the gear set are obtained by the engagement of hydraulically operated multi-disc clutches and brake bands. MULTIPLATE CLUTCHES
The two multiplate clutches are
operated by hydraulic pistons to connect the converter to the gear set. For first and second gears the front clutch connects the converter to the forward sun gear, and for reverse the rear clutch connects the converter to the reverse sun gear. Both clutches are applied locking the epicyclic gear train to give direct drive (1 : 1) for top gear. The front clutch consists of three externally and four internally toothed plates. The rear clutch consists of five pairs of internally and externally toothed plates.
TRANSMISSION
The transmission consists of a hydraulically controlled epicyclic gear train with two multi-plate clutches, two brake bands and a sprag type one-way clutch. By applying the clutches and/ or brake bands automatically in various combinations, three forward gears and one reverse are obtained. Hydraulic fluid is supplied under pressure to a control system and thence to the clutch operating pistons and brake band servos by an oil pump driven by the engine. This pump supplies all the hydraulic needs of the automatic transmission and torque converter.
FRONT PUMP DRIVE TANGS
EPICYCLIC GEAR TRAIN
The gear train consists of two sun gears, two sets of pinions mounted on a pinion carrier and a ring gear. In forward gears power enters through
FIG. 4 - Torque Converter Typical
7-4
GROUP
The internally toothed plates are faced on each side with friction material and are interchangeable between the front and rear clutches. The externally toothed plates, however, are not interchangeable as the rear plates are dished. The dished plate<> can be readily identified as some of the teeth are omitted. These plates must always be fitted with the dishing in the same direction. Brake Bands. Elements of the gear set are held stationary, to effect an output shaft speed reduction, by two brake bands, each operated by a hydraulic servo. The rear band holds the pinion carrier stationary to provide the first gear ratio with engine braking in Jock-up. The reverse sun gear is held stationary by the front band to provide the second gear ratio. One-way Clutch. In drive a one-way sprag-type clutch is used, instead of the rear band employed in lock-up, to prevent anti-clockwise rotation ot the pinion carrier. This one- way clutch allows the gear set to freewheel when in first and assists smooth changes between first and second and vice-versa. INHIBITOR SWITCH
A non-adjustable inhibitor switch is mounted on the left hand side of the transmission. It is operated by a rod mounted internally and connected to the parking pawl. Four terminals are provided-two for ignition and two for reversing lamp connections. CONTROL SYSTEM
The control system regulates pump pressure and directs fluid to the converter and lubrication system . Also, it directs fluid to the appropriate clutch and servo pistons, but at a pressure which varies with vehicle speed and engine torque. Three types of valves are used, regulating valves, shuttle valves and a manual valve. Regulating valves operate in equilibrium which means that the total force operating in one direction on the valve is opposed by an equal and opposite force. These forces are respectively, spring forces and hydraulic pressures operating on given areas of the
7- AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION valves. Regulated pressures are controlled by the valves oscillating between a feed and an exhaust port to maintain this equilibrium. Shuttle valves move in both directions a fixed distance. This movement is caused by the forces in one direction exceeding the forces in the opposite direction. These forces are respectively spring and hydraulic pressure acting upon given areas of the valves. These valves are used to direct or to provide an exhaust for fluid. The manual valve is controlled by the position of the selector lever and directs fluid, or provides an exhaust from, the clutch and servo pistons according to the position selected. OIL PUMP
The oil pump driven by the torque converter impeller, operates whenever the engine is running. All the hydraulic requirements of the torque converter and automatic transmission are supplied by this pump. The oil pump consists of an inner externally toothed gear in mesh with an internally toothed gear housed eccentrically to the inner gear. The drive to the pump inner gear is by tangs on the drive shaft attached to the torque converter and the gear revolves about the torque converter support on the pump adaptor plate. The operation of the oil pump is shown diagrammatically in Fig. 5. As the gears revolve, oil is drawn from the sump through the inlet port into the space between the gear teeth as they come out of mesh and is carried round between the gear teeth to the outlet- port where the teeth again mesh. The oil is forced out through the outlet port and flows to the regulator valves which control the delivery pressure. PRIMARY REGULATOR VALVE
This valve regulates pump pressure. Control pressure, operating on a small area of the valve, is affected by modulated throttle pressure operating on one end of the valve. These forces are opposed by the primary regulator valve spring and ~hrottle pressure acting on the opposite end of the valve. The control pressure produced varies with the accelerator pedal position and
car speed, and provides the correct clutch and servo capacity under operating conditions. This control pressure is directed to the manual valve and throttle valve from the primary valve. SECONDARY REGULATOR VALVE
This valve controls convertor and lubrication pressures. Convertor pressure acting on one end of the valve is opposed by spring force on the other end.
GOVERNOR
The governor, mounted on and rotated by the output shaft, is a pressure regulating valve which reduc<:s control pressure to a figure that varies with the output shaft, speed, and therefore, car speed. This variable pressure in the control system effects up and down changes through the first to second and second to third shift valves. When the governor rotates at low speeds (Fig.6), the governor weight and valve move outward by centrifugal force. This outward force is opposed by hydraulic pressure produced by governor pressure acting upon a small area of the governor valve. Since the governor valve is a regulating valve, and attempts to remain in equilibrium governor pressure will rise in accordance with the increase in centrifugal force caused by increased speed of rotation. As output shaft speed increases, the governor weight moves outwards to a stop in the governor body. When this happens, a spring located between the weight and the governor valve becomes effective. The constant force of this spring combines with the governor valve centrifugal force to oppose governor pressure, so rendering governor pressure less sensitive to output shaft speed variations. Manual Centro! Valve. This valve, actuated by the selector lever directs control pressure to, or exhausts fluid from, the appropriate valves or modulator valve and plunger components, according to the position selected.
PART 7-1
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (Borg-Warner)
INNER GEAR
@ INLET -
Q) OUTLET
@ SUCTION -
® LINE PRESSURE
FIG. 5 -Oil Pump Operation Downshift Valve and Throttle Valve.
gine load and car speed . Th1s pressure is directed to the primary regulator valve spring end to vary basic control pressure accordingly , so providing correct servo and clutch capacities and consistent change quality under operating conditions. Full movement of the downshift valve directs throttl e pressure to the shift valves to delay changes up, or effect third to second or third to first changes at pre-set maximum speeds. Also , throttle pressure is directed to the second to third valve plunger. This reduces the value of throttle pressure by a fixed amount and this pressure is diFeeted to the first to second
The down shift valve , connected to the throttle linkage by a cable actuated cam, varies control pressure with accelerator pedal depression . Movement of the downshift valve compresses the throttle valve spring located between the downshift valve and the throttle valve . This spring is opposed by the throttle return S!)ring combined with throttle pressure, acting at low car speed , on one area of the throttle valve , and at high road speed on two areas of the throttle valve . A pressure is produced therefore, proportional to both en-
•
and second to third valves to control the change points sensitivity relative to throttle pressure and , therefore , accelerator position . The modulator plunger is a regulating valve that reduces throttle pressure by a fixed amount. This modulated pressure operating on one end of the plunger assisted by the modulator valve spring, is opposed by throttle pressure operating on the opposite end of the valve . This modulated throttle pressure is directed to the primary regulator valve thus varying the increase rate of control pressure relative to throttle pressure . The modulator valve is a shuttle valve . Governor pressure operating on the large end is opposed by the modulator spring. As governor pressure rises with road speed the valve moves. contacting the modulator plunger. Further vaJv, : movement prevents the plunger from regulating, and modulated throttle pressure then becomes equal to throttle pressure. This movement directs throttle pressure to a second area of the throttle valve and by this means the high throttle and control pressures existing at the converter stall condition are reduced when the car is moving for satisfactory gear change qualities.
Servo Orifice Control Valve. This is a shuttle valve in the front servo release circuit with governor pressure acting on the valve opposed by the servo orifice control valve spring. At low gov-
•
WEIGHT VALVE GOVERNOR SPRING
VEHICLE STATIONARY
FIG. 6 -Governor Operation
LOW SPEED OPERATION
7-5
HIGH SPEED OPERATION
7-6
GROUP 7- AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
ernor pressures, front servo release fluid goes direct to the release side of the front servo piston. At higher governor pressures the valve moves and fluid is directed through an orifice and then to the release side of this piston. A common line supplies fluid to, or exhausts fluid from, the rear clutch and the release area of the front servo, to effect the second to third and third to second change. At low speeds, when the servo orifice is by-passed, the front servo releases quickly with the result that second to third or third to second changes are smooth . At higher speeds, the front servo release fluid passes through the orifice which delays the front servo release and effects a firm second to third and third to second change. The servo orifice control valve therefore affects the relationship between the rear clutch and front servo to provide correct change quality under all operating conditiom Shift Valve Operation'D' Selected First to Second Valve and Plunger.
Both the first to second valve and plunger are shuttle valves and operate together when "D" is selected. Governor pressure, operating on the large end of the first to second valve, is opposed by reduced throttle pressure from the second to third plunger and the spring operating on the opposite end of the first to second plunger. When the governor pressure exceeds the spring force combined with reduced throttle pressure, the valvemoves tn the second 2ear oosition and control pressure is directed to the apply side of the front servo piston. Movement of the valve removes control pressure from an additional area of the valve and exhausts reduced throttle pressure from the plunger via the downshift valve. This allows the change from second to first to occur at a lower speed than the change from first to second. When governor force is less than the spring force, the valve moves to the first gear position and the apply side of the front servo is opened to exhaust. Second to Third Vah·e and Plunger.
The second to third plunger is a regulating valve that reduces the
value of throttle pressure by a fixed amount and is inoperative when throttle pressure is below this fixed amount. Throttle pressure, operating on one end of the valve plunger is opposed by this reduced throttle pressure and the second to third valve spring located between the plunger and valve. This reduced pressure is directed to the second to third valve and the first to second plunger to vary the change points sensitivity relative to throttle pressure and accelerator position. The second to third valve is a shuttle valve. In the second gear position and before the second to third valve plunger begins regulating, governor pressure, operating on the large end of this valve is opposed by the second to third valve spring. Mter the plunger begins regulating, governor pressure, operating on the large end of the valve, is opposed by reduced throttle pressure operating on the small end of the valve, and throttle pressure operating on the end of the second to third valve plunger. The latter force is relayed to the second to third valve by the valve spring. Movement of the valve to the third gear position directs fluid to the rear clutch and the release side of the front servo through the servo orifice control valve. This pressure applies the rear clutch. Since the release area of the front servo is larger than the apply area, the front servo and therefore, front band is released. This movement also results in an area of the valve being no longer subjected to control pressure and prevents regulation of the second to third valve plunger by forcing the plunger to the end of the valve bore. Therefore reduced throttle pressure which was acting on the small end of the valve is exhausted at the downshift valve. This change in forces causes the third to second change to occur at a lower governor pressure, and therefore road speed, than the second to third change. THIRD TO SECOND DUMP
VALVE
The valve allows a quick downchange from top to second gear to take place when 2 or 1 is manually selected.
The operation consists of bypassing the orifice restriction in the rear clutch and front servo release hydraulic line with a one way ball valve. The ball is held in position on the separator plate with a very light spring. HYDRAULIC CIRCUITS AND POWER FLOW
"N" Neutr•l (Refer Fig. 10). With the engine running the primary regufator valve regulates control pressure which is directed to the manual valve and throttle valve and it also permits fluid to reach the secondary regulator valve. The secondary regulator valve regulates pressure to the converter and lubrication of the front end ot the transmission. The same pressure is directed to the rear end ot the transmission. The valve returns excess ftuid to the oil pan through the pump inlet. No power is transmitted since the clutches and bands are released. First Gear with "D" selected. Hydraulic Circuits Pressure control of the pump will be as with "N". However, with the downshift valve cam in the full throttle position, throttle pressure regulated by the modulator valve plunger acts upon the primary reglf'lator val\1! opposing throttle pressure, thus modulating control pressure for change quality. The manual valve directs control pressure to the front clutch, first to second valve and governor feed. Control pressure reaches the second to third valve to provide for the subsequent second to third change. Power Flow.
The front clutch is applied connecting the converter turbine to the forward sun gear. The oneway clutch operates so preventing the pinion carrier from rotatina anti-clockwise. The ring gear, connected to the output shaft, is rotated through the planets at an overall ratio of 2.39 to 1. When the car coasts the one way clutch overruns and the gearset freewheels so that engine brakina is not available. Second Gear with "D" selected. Hydraulic Circuits Change control is provided by the first to second valve movina
PART 7-1 against spring pressure under the influence of governor pressvre. This allows control pressure to reach the apply side of the front servo. The frcnt band thus applied together with the front clutch, provides second gear. With the downshift valve cam in the forced throttle position, forced throttle pressure acts upon the fint to second and second to third valves so further delaying upward changes or providing a second to first change at speeds when there is little governor pressure.
Power Flow. Again the front clutch is applied connecting the converter turbine to the forward sun gear. The front band is contracted which holds the rev~rse sun gear stationary with the result that the planet pinions "walk" around the sun gear, causing the carrier to revolve in the same direction as the forward sun gear so that the ring gear is driven faster than in first gear. The gearset provides the redflction of 1.45 to 1. Top Gear with "D" selected Hydraulic Circuits Pressure control is similar to second gear with "D" selected, except that with minimum throttle no throttle pressure or modulated throttle pressure acts upon the two ends of the primary regulator valve. Change control is provided by the second to third valve moving against spring pressure inftuence. This ·allows line pressure to reach the rear clutch direct, together with front servo release pres· sure directed through the servo orifice control valve. When governor pressure is in evidence, the servo orifice control valve closes, forcing front servo release pressure through an orifice which thus affects the relationship between rear clutch apply and front servo release in accordance with road speed. Since the release side of the front servo has a larger area than the apply side, the front servo dis~ngages the band. The rear clute~ now engaged, in conjunction with the front clutch, provides third gear. The absence of throttle pressure, as previously mentioned, ,will cause the second to third valve to move early under the governor pressure inftuence, so providing a low speed second to third change.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (Borg-Warner) Power Flow. Once more the front clutch is applied, so oonnecting the converter turbine to the forward sun gear. The rear clutch is applied, connecting the converter turbine to the reverse sun gear also. Relative movement of the various gears in the gear train is impossible and therefore the gear set revolves as a unit, providing a ratio of 1 to 1. "R" Reverse Hydraulic Circuits. Pressure control of the pump IS similar to "P" or "N". But, according to the amount that the accelerator pedal is depressed, throttle pressure is directed to the spring end of the primary regulating valve, thus increasing control pressure in relation to torque capacity requirements. The manual valve directs control pressure through the first to second valve to the rear servo, and control pressure through the second to third valve to the rear clutch and front servo release. Due to absence of governor pressure, the shift valves and servo orifice control valve do not operate in this selector position. Power Flow. The rear clutch is applied so that the converter turbine is connected to the reverse sun gear, whilst the rear band is applied, locking the planet carrier stationary. The drive is then transmitted to the ring gear by the outer planets. The reverse sun and ring gears rotate in opposite directions with a reduction of 2.09 to 1. "P" Park With the engine running, the operation of the hydraulic system is identical to "N" except that the manual valve directs control pressure to tt.e rear servo, although this servo does not perform any function in "P" No ,power is transmitted since the clutches and bands are released. However an internal linkage from the manual valve detent lever engages the parking pawl with teeth on the output shaft ring gear. Kickdown to Second Gear 'D' Selected (30-50 mph approximately). With the accelerator depressed to kickdown position, throttle pressure is applied to the 2-3 valve and plunger at line 11. Throttle pressure and
7-7
spring pressure overcome the governor pressure on the end of the 2-3 shift valve and the valve moves to second gear position. The front servo release and the rear clutch apply circuits are now exhausted via line 7 at the manual valve. The transmission will now stay in second gear until road speed drops below 30 mph, when first gear will be selected or governor pressure overcomes throttle and spring pressures and moves the valve to third gear position. The power !low is the same as in second gear 'D'. Kickdown to Low in 'D' (below 30 mph approximately). With the accelerator depressed to kickdown position, the 2-3 shift valve is forced to take up 2nd gear position as described in preceding paragraph. Simultaneously, throttle pressure is applied to the small end of the 1-2 shift valve via lines 11 and lOA. Throttle pressure combined with spring pressure will overcome governor pressure (under approximately 30 mph) and the valve will be forced to take up first gear position. As a result, the front servo apply circuit will be exhausted at the 1-2 valve. The vehicle is now in first gear and will not change up until governor pressure overcomes the throttle and spring pressures and moves the valve to second gear position. Power flow is the same as in first gear 'D'. OPERATION OF THE RANGE CONTROL VALVE G.T.A. SHIFT PATTERN (Refer Fig. 18). '1' - Control pressure, from line 6 at manual valve is directed to the 1-2 shift valve where it is redirected to the rear servo apply. At the same time control pressure is directed from line 1 to line 5 at the manual valve and to the front clutch apply and governor feed lines. Governor pressure is fed to the range control valve at line 2 where it feeds line 22. Line 22, governor pressure, is directed to the large end of the 1-2 shift valve, where it is opposed by control pressure from line 6, throttle pressure from 10, and spring pressure which holds the 1-2 shift valve in first gear position. '2' -When 2 is selected manually, control pressure is applied to the front clutch and governor from line 5 at the manual valve.
7-8
GROUP 7- AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION 'D' the rear clutch and front servo release circuits are exhausted at the manual valve. The front clutch and the front servo are now applied giving 2nd gear. Control pressure is exhausted from line 3 at the range control valve allowing control pressure at line 12 to move the valve against spring pressure, blocking off governor pressure to line 22 and replacing it with control pressure which is directed to the large end of the 1-2 shift valve holding it in 2nd gear position. 2-1 SHIFT AT SPEED
When the manual valve is shifted from '2' to '1' control pressure in line 12 at the range control valve is exhausted via the manual valve allowing spring pressure to move the range control valve to the left. Control pressure in line 22 is now replaced with governor pressure which is directed to the large end ofthe 1-2 shift valve holding it in the 2nd gear position. When road speed drops below approximately 30 mph, depending on throttle opening, the control throttle, and spring pressures overcome the sovernor ~ressure and
FIG. 7 - Typical Selector Linkage Control pressure from line 12 at the manual valve is directed to the end of the range control valve moving it against spring pressure to block off governor pressure at line 2 and connect line 12 to line 22 and so replacing governor pressure at the 1-2 shift valve with control pressure. The 1-2 shift valve is now moved against spring pressure and throttle pressure to open a passage for control pressure from line 5 to enter the Front servo apply line (19). At the same time, the rear servo apply line has been exhausted. The transmission is now in intermediate ratio. There is no upshift to 3rd, because there is no control pressure being directed to the 2-3 shift valve from the manual valve. 'D' - third gear - Control pressure in line 3 acts against control pressure in line 12 at the range control valve. Because of equal areas and equal pressures, there is no resultant force on the valve and the spring is able to push the valve across cutting off the control pressure feed to line 22 and replacing it with governor pressure from line 2. The transmission is now in normal drive range. 3-2 SHIFT AT SPEED
When '2' is manually selected from
FIG. 8 -
Inhibitor Switch
PART 7-1
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (Borg-Warner)
7-9
The transmission will now remain in first gear until another drive range is selected manually. 3-1 SHIFT AT SPEED
Rear clutch apply and front servo release circuits are exhausted at the manual valve. The front clutch and the front servo are now applied giving 2nd gear. The control pressure in lines 12 and 3 at the range control valve is also exhausted via the manual control valve. This allows spring pressure to hold the range control valve stationary and retain governor pressure to line 22.
FIG. 9 -Inhibitor Switch Operating Lever moves the 1-2 shift valve to first gear position. The front servo apply circuit is exhausted at the 1-2 shift valve
and at the same time control pressure in line 6 from the manual valve is redirected to apply the rear servo.
When road speed drops below approximately 30 mph, the control throttle and spring pressures overcome the governor pressure and moves the 1-2 shift valve to the first gear position. The front servo apply circuit is exhausted and the rear servo apply circuit subjected to control pressure via the 1-2 shift valves. The transmission will now remain in 1st gear until another drive range is manually selected.
GROUP 7- AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7-10
.-~o"'T
·-
TION
l" Ml' '5
I CONVE.l'.T~It.
_l
!I
H r "I~~ n
~~~
-
~
I
o~
~~~~
II PRIMA~'lJ REG .
ll.'i.A."l. l'U MP
I DOWNSHIFT I
a
0.
1'-.l
,(J,_
f;:
~
P R N D 2 L
+ + + + +
n-n
•
r-
w
~
r
a
.
::1 · '-----
1-
~r-- t-
\)
.I X
._, ..
~
3 2
-
j.! ~'
~
~
pel ~
r
fXI~3 SHIFT
%
......
;~ H_ .1!
- --
11-
r---
------ ~
...
~
~ ~
----t'i
.L
'..::7
t- - - -
1~1 ~
~.
~
t:;'
~
..r
'""
rx
2. SERVO
=
l~ iJ
J
t-6
13
~
~H ~
r-L'"'<..
t-=-t
r----1 10
1
liif'&f
- l'
........_ ~s:,,._,._ ~~,_'10
.lo.VPL.Y
lJ r
J
L
I
I
I I
I I
I
_Ll
.c.
RANGE CONTROL
-~
m...
.._,
-JiQ •
2.
~ I
t
.JJ~ M ~
~ r---:-k ~
ill
'z t--
FIG. 10- Borg Warner Hydraulic Control System
1"1
I
ORIFICE CONTROL
It
l'll.OHT SE.l.'IIO ,._'P'PL.Y
r-
1
1·2 SHIFT~ .f).
~
r=
_I
\1
~
r
\)
;:)
\J
{
'-~r::l'"""-. '7
~
I.
I
~
s
MANUAL
~~
~~
-~
"'"'~
DUMP VALVE
0-......-1
'
1
1-
~
l....r\
I I
l~'J
- MODULATOR
~
I
[
a
~
......__
l
~~~
-
.___
•
~
_r:::'t
_l
-
u-u
rx
J--
L.=
r---
....,_
-
---r
r---
.
Jl
M ~11:~
_IXI_J\11
_c
'\_I-
_l.ll
I
~r-
Iff"'"
ulJLSECONDARY REG.
JLr
.....,
~~THROTTLE
,....~
I
ri
~
l:ii.OW"T 'CIUM'P
trl
,...,
I
..
•
11
.._,
'-
~
~ ~ 0
~ ~
~
a ...
PART 7-1
EJ
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (Borg-Warner)
7-ll
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
When diagnosing transmission problems, first refer to the diagnosis guide for detailed information on the items that could be causing the problem. The following preliminary checks should be made in the order given: 1. Check the fluid level. Check the fluid for a burnt clutch plate odor. 2. Check the engine idle speed. 3. Check the manual linkage adjustment. 4. Check the accelerator pedal height and downshift linkage. 5. Check the throttle linkage to assure wide open throttle operation. 6. Check the engine for proper operation.
TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL CHECK 1. Make sure that the vehicle is standing level. Then firmly apply the parking brake. 2. Run the engine at normal idle speed. If the transmission fluid is cold, run the engine at fast idle speed (about 1200 rpm) until the fluid reaches its normal operating temperature. When the fluid is warm, slow the engine down to normal idle speed. 3. Shift the selector lever through all positions, and place the lever at P. Do not turn off the engine during the fluid level checks. 4. Clean all dirt from the transmission fluid dipstick .cap before removing the dipstick from the filler tube. 5. Pull the dipstick out of the tube, wipe it clean, and push it all the way back into the tube. 6. Pull the dipstick out of the tube again, and check the fluid level. If necessary, add enough fluid to the transmission through the filler tube to raise the fluid level to the F (full) mark on the dipstick. DO NOT OVERFILL THE TRANSMISSION. Should it be necessary to check the fluid level when the transmission is cold, carry out the above procedure, when the level should be on "Add" mark, otherwise it will be too high at normal operating temperature when the fluid has expanded. Re-check the level when the gearbox is at normal running temperature. A fluid level that is too high will cause the fluid to become aerated.
Aerated fluid will cause low control pressure, and the aerated fluid may be forced out the vent. Low fluid level can effect the operation of the transmission and may indicate fluid leaks that could cause transmission damage. Incorrect transmission fluid level can also have the following effects, although they may be attributable to other malfunctions:(a) No drive in "D", "1", "2" or "R". (b) Slip and squawk or judder on full throttle starts in "D", "1", "2" or "R". (c) Overheating due to high fluid level during sustained high speeds.
TRANSMISSION FLUID LEAKAGE CHECKS Check the speedometer cable connection at the transmission. Leakage at the oil pan gasket often can be stopped by tightening the attaching bolts to the proper torque. If necessary, replace the gasket. Check the fluid filler tube connection at the transmission. If the filler tube 0-ring seal is leaking, replace the seal. The transmission fluid is water cooled; check the fluid lines and fittings between the transmission and the cooler in the radiator tank for looseness, wear, or damage. If leakage cannot be stopped by tightening a fitting, replace the defective parts. Check the engine coolant in the radiator. If transmission fluid is present in the coolant, the cooler in the radiator tank is probably leaking. The cooler can be further checked for leaks by disconnecting the lines at the cooler fittings and apply 5 psi air pressure to the fittings. The radiator cap must be removed when making this check to relieve the pressure on the exterior side of the cooler. If the cooler is leaking and will not hold this pressure, the radiator must be replaced. The cooler cannot be replaced separately. If leakage is found at the manual lever shaft, replace seals that are leaking. The pressure port plug on the left rear of the case must also be inspected. Fluid leakage from the converter housing may be caused by engine oil leaking past the rear
main bearing or from oil gallery plugs. Be sure to determine the exact cause of the leak. f'LUID LEAKAGE CONVERTER AREA In diagnosing and correcting fluid leaks in the front pump and converter area, use the following procedures to facilitate locating the exact cause of the leakage. Leakage at the front of the transmission , as evidenced by fluid around the converter housing, may have several sources. By careful observation, it is possible, in many instances, to pinpoint the source of the leak before removing the transmission from the car. The paths which the fluid takes to reach the bottom of the converter housing are shown in Fig. 1.
1. Fluid leaking by the front pump seal lip will tend to move along the drive hub and onto the back of the impeller housing. Except in the case of a total seal failure, fluid leakage by the lip of the seal will be deposited on the inside of the c0nverter housing only, near the outside diameter of the housing. 2. Fluid leakage by the outside diameter of the seal and front pump body will follow the same path as leaks by the front pump seal or may run down the face of the front pump. 3. Fluid that leaks by front pump to case bolts will be deposited on the inside of the converter housing only. Fluid will not be deposited on the back of the converter. 4. Leakage by the front pump to case and 0-ring seal may cause fluid to be deposited on the inside lower part of the converter housing as shown in Fig. l. Engine oil leaks are sometimes improperly diagnosed as front pump seal leaks. The following areas of possible leakage should also be checked to determine if engine oil leakage is causing the problem:
(a) Leakage at the rocker arm cover (valley cover) may allow oil to flow over the converter housing or seep down between the converter housing and cylinder block causing oil to be present in or at the bottom of the converter housing . (b) Oil gallery plug leaks will allow oil to flow down the rear face of the block to the bottom of the converter housing.
7-12
GROUP 7-
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ranges to increase pressures within the transmission. Observe the front oi the flywheel. back of the block (in as far as possible), and inside the converter housing (Fig. I). Run the engine until fluid leakage is evident and the probable source of leakage can be determined.
ENGINE IDLE SPEED CHECK Check and, if necessary, adjust the engine idle speed, using the procedure given in Group 10. If the idle speed is too low, the engine will run roughly. An idle speed that is too high will cause the car to creep excessively when the transmission is shifted into gear and will cause rough transmission engagement. MANUAL LINKAGE CHECKS C'..
CONVUTEJ
CONVUTEJ DltAIN I'I.UG l.fAK
FIG. 11 - Typical Converter Area Leakage Checks (c) Leakage by the crankshaft seal will work back to the flywheel, and then into the converter housing. Fluid leakage from other areas, forward .of the transmission could cause fluid to be present around the converter housing due to blow-back or road draft. The following procedure should be used to determ ine the cause of leakage before any repairs are made: (a) Remove the transmission dipstick and note the color of the fluid . Original factory fill fluid is dyed red to aid in determining if leakage is from the engine or transmission. Since road draft may cause leaking valley cover oil to be present on the transmission, this leakage, if present, should be eliminated before performing work on the transmission. (b) Remove the converter lower housing cover. Clean off any fluid
from the top and bottom of the converter housing, front of the transmission case, and rear face of the engine and engine oil pan. Clean the converter area by washing with suitable non-flammable solvent, and blow dry with compressed air. (c) Wash out the converter housing, the front of the flywheel. The converter housing may be washed out using cleaning solvent and a squirt-type oil can. Blow all washed areas dry with compressed air. (d) Start and run the engine until the transmission reaches its normal operating temperature. Observe the back of the block and top of the converter housing for evidence of fluid leakage. Raise the car on a hoist and run the engine at fast idle, then at engine idle, occasionally shifting to the drive and reverse
INITIAL ENGAGEMENT CHECKS Initial engagement checks are made to determine if initial band and clutch engagements are smooth. Run the engine until its normal operating temperature is reached. With the engine at the correct idle speed, shift the selector lever from N to D, 2, 1 and R. Observe the initial band and clutch engagements. Band and clutch engagements should be smooth in all positions. Rough initial engagements in D, 2, 1 or R are caused by high engine idle speed or high control pressures. TRANSMISSION OPERATION CHECKS TEST PREPARATION 1. Attach a tachometer to the engine. 2. Attach a pressure gauge to the control pressure outlet at the transmission (Fig. 12).
PART 7-1 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (Borg-Warner} 3. Firmly apply the parking brake and start the engine. 4. With the engine at normal operating temperature, adjust the engine idle speed to the specified rpm. If the engine idle speed cannot be brought within limits by adjustment at the carburettor idle adjustment screw, check the throttle and downshift linkage for a binding condition. If the linkage is satisfactory, check for vacuum leaks into the engine.
If the engine speed recorded by the tachometer exceeds the maximum limits specified in Table 1, release the accelerator immediately because clutch or band slippage is indicated.
CONTROL PRESSURE TESTS
STALL SPEED TOO HIGH
The test results of the following checks should agree with the specifications given in Table 1. When performing control pressure tests, make certain that the service brake pedal is held in the applied position. It is important that both the engine and transmission are at their normal operating temperature.
A higher stall speed than that specified indicates that the convertor is not receiving its required fluid supply or that slip is occurring, depending on transmission selector lever position. Excessive engine rpm only in D, 2 or 1, indicates forward clutch slippage. Excessive engine rpm only in R indicates either reverse-high clutch or low-reverse band slippage. Excessive engine rpm only in D indicates gear train oneway clutch slippage.
TEST No. 1 CONTROL PRESSURE CHECK AT ENGINE IDLE
Start the engine and allow it and the transmission to reach their normal operating temperatures. At the correct engine idle speed, check the transmission control pressure gauge at all selector lever positions. The pressure: <>hould agree with the specifications shown in Table 1. IDLE PRESSURE TOO LOW
Check the downshift cable adjustment and revise as necessary. Low pressure may also be due to excessive leakage in the oil pump, case and control valve body, or a sticking control pressure regulator valve.
clutch. While making this test, do no£ hold the throttle open for more than five seconds at a time. Then move the selector lever to Neutral and run engine at 1000 rpm for about 15 seconds to cool the converter before making the next test.
STALL SPEED TOO LOW
When the stall test speeds are low and the engine is properly tuned, converter stator clutch problems are indicated. A road test must be performed to determine the exact cause of the trouble. If the stall test speeds are 300 to 400 rpm below the specifications shown in Table 1, and the car cruises properly but has very poor acceleration, the converter stator clutch is slipping.
If the stall test speeds are 300 to 400 rpm below the specified values, and the car drags at cruising speeds and acceleration is poor, the stator clutch could be installed backwards. Remove the converter and check the stator clutch by replacing with a converter known to be operating correctly and retesting. Below standard acceleration in top gear above 30 mph combined with a substantially reduced maximum speed, indicates that the stator oneway clutch has locke;d in the engaged condition. This condition will also be indicated by the transmission overheating, although the stall speed will remain as specified. Renew the converter. Note - The torque converter is a sealed unit without a drain plug. The unit must not be dismantled. If a converter is unsatisfactory in any way then it must be replaced. TEST No. 3 CONTROL PRESSURE AFTER CUT BACK TEST
The transmission and engine should be at their normal operating temperature. Accelerate the vehicle with full throttle. During acceleration the control pressure should be suddenly reduced by modulator valve operation to the specification shown in Part 7-4. CONTROL PRESSURE AFTER CUT BACK TOO LOW
Low pressure may be caused by incorrect downshift cable adjustment or faulty regulator valve operation.
IDLE PRESSURE TOO HIGH
Check the downshift cable adjustment for excessive pullout, sticking or non-return of the downshift cam through incorrect assembly of the cam spring. High pressure may also be caused by sticking regulator valves. TEST No. 2 -
STALL TEST
Start the engine to allow it to reach its normal temperature. Apply both the parking and service brakes while making tests. The stall test is made in D, 2, 1 or R at full throttle to check engine performance, converter clutch operation or installation and the holding ability of the forward clutch, reverse-high clutch and low-reverse band and the gear train one-way
7-13
FIG. 12- Gauge set up for Pressure Test
7-14
GROUP 7- AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
TABLE 1 CONTROL PRESSURE CHECKS IDLE PRESSURE (PSI)
STALL PRESSURE (PSI)
STALL SPEEDS (RPM)
200CID
58-66
200CID
200-250
200CID
1800-1900
250CID
58-70
250-CID
200-250
250CID
1850-1950
Note - Check pressures with transmission fluid at normal operating temperature. CONTROL PRESSURE AFTER CUT BACK TOO HIGH High control pressure may be caused by incorrect downshift cable adjustments, faulty governor, modulator valve or regulator valve operation. SHIFT POINT CHECKS Check the light throttle upshifts in D. The transmission should start in first gear, shift to second, and then shift to third within the shift points specified in the specifications section (Part 7-4). While the transmission is in third gear, depress the accelerator pedal through the K.D. detent (to the floor). The transmission should shift from third to second or third to first, depending on the car speed. Check the closed throttle downshift from third to first by coasting down from about 30 mph in third gear. The shift should occur within the limits specified in the specifications section. With the transmission in third gear and road speed over 30 mph, the transmission should shift to second gear when the selector lever is moved from D to 2 or 1. The transmission will downshift from second or third to first gear when 1 is selected below approximately 20 mph. This check will determine if the governor pressure and shift control valves are functioning properly. During the shift check operation, if the transmission does not shift within specifications or certain gear ranges cannot be obtained, refer to the Diagnosis Guide to resolve the problem. ROAD TEST PROCEDURES Test 1. Check that the starter only operates with the selector in "P" and "N" and that if a reversing light is fitted it only operates in "R". Test 2. Apply the brakes and, with the engine idling, select N-D, N-1, N-2, N-R. Transmission engagement should be felt in
each position selected. Test 3. Check converter stall speed with the transmission in "1" after connecting a tachometer to the engine and applying the hand-brake. Allow the engine and transmission to reach normal operating temperature and then momentarily depress to the kick-down position, noting the tachometer reading. Do not stall for more than ten seconds, otherwise the transmission will overheat. Check for slip or clutch squawks. (Refer Table 1). Test 4. With the transmission at normal operating temperature, select "D", release the brakes and accelerate with minimum throttle opening checking for first to second and second to third changes. At minimum throttle openings the changes may be difficult to detect. Confirmation that the transmission is in third gear mar, be obtained by selecting "2 ' when a third to second change should be felt. Test 5. (a) At 30 m.p.h. in third gear, depress the accelerator to the "kick-down" position where the transmission should change to second. (b) At 15 m.p.h. in third gear, depress the accelerator to full throttle position. The transmission should change to first gear. Test 6. (a) Stop the car and re-start using full throttle acceleration. Check the change speeds for first to seconel and second to third: refer shift speed chart in the specification section. (b) At 40 mph in third gear, release the accelerator and select "1". Check for third to second change and engine braking. Check that the second to first change occurs below 20 p1ph and for engine braking. Test 7. Stop the car with "1" still engaged, release the brakes and, using full throttle accelerate to
20 mph. Check for slip and clutch squawk, and no upward changes. Test 8. Stop and select "R". Release the. brakes and reverse using full throttle if possible. Check for slip or clutch squawk. Test 9. Stop the car facing downhill with the brakes and select "P". Release the brakes and check that the parking pawl holds the car. Re-apply the brakes before disengaging the parking pawl. Repeat with the car facing uphill. AIR PRESSURE CHECKS A NO DRIVE condition can exist, even with correct transmission fluid pressure, because of inoperative clutches, bands. The inoperative units can be located through a series of checks by substituting air pressure for the fluid pressure to determine the location of the malfunction. When the selector lever is at D, 2, or 1, a NO DRIVE condition may be caused by an inoperative forward clutch. A NO DRIVE condition at D may be caused by an inoperative forward clutch or one-way clutch. When there is no drive in "1", the difficulty could be caused by improper functioning of the forward clutch and the one-way clutch. The low-reverse band cannot be checked in "1". If the low-reverse band or clutch fails, the one-way clutch will hold the gear train and operation will be normal except that there will be no engine braking. Failure to drive in reverse range could be caused by a malfunction ofthe reverse-high clutch or low-reverse band. If the transmission fails to drive in reverse range but operates normally in D, 1 or 2, it indicates failure of the low and reverse band. To make the air pressure checks, drain the transmission fluid, and then remove the oil pan and the control valve body assembly. The inoperative units can be located by introducing air pressure into the transmission case passages leading to the clutches, servos, and governor.
PART 7-1
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION {Borg-Warner)
FII.ONT CLUTCH
II.EAII. CLUTCH
FII.ONT lAND
7-15
II.EAII. lAND
ONE WAY CLUTCH
TUII.IINE
SELECTOR LEVER POSITION
-LOCK UP 1
D
-DRIVE 1
2,1 orO- LOCK UP 2 DRIVE 2
D
-DRIVE 3
N
-
R
-REVERSE
p
-PARK
FRONT CLUTCH
REAR CLUTCH
• •
REAR BAND
ONE WAY CLUTCH
•
• •
• •
• •
NEUTRAL
•
Power Flow Summary
• •
e FIG. 13 -
FRONT BAND
=APPLIED
"'1"1
~
~
...
o-
~
I "' ~
lr11'ELLER
CLUTCH PISTONS
..cr
STATOR
FRONT CLUTCH
CD
TURBINE
FRONT OIL PUMP
~
a..
PINION CARRIER CENTRE SUPPORT
PINIONS GOVERNOR
< ii"
s"
E
..i'
~
..
-t
c
Ill ~ Ill
3 iii. Ill
a·
)>
~
RING GEAR
FORWARD SUN GEAR
c
~
()
.....
::0 )> REVERSE SUN GEAR
z
~
~ FRONT BRAKE BAND
ONE WAY CLUTCH
DRIVE PLATE AND STARTER RING GEAR
REAR BRAKE BAND
REAR CLUTCH
FRONT PUMP ADAPTOR
ONE WAY CLUTCH
2
TABLE 2- FAULT INVESTIGATION KEY
.,)>
PRELIMINARY ADJUSTMENT FAULTS
;10
-t
A
Fluid level incorrect.
D
Incorrect engine idling speed.
B
Downshift valve cable incorrectly assembled or adjusted.
E
Incorrect front band adjustment.
C
Manual linkage incorrectly assembled or adjusted.
F
Incorrect rear band adjustment.
~
)>
c
--i
HYDRAULIC CONTROL FAULTS
MECHANICAL FAULTS
~)>
a
Oil tubes missing or not installed correctly.
N
Front clutch slipping due to worn plates or faulty parts.
n
b
Sealing rings missing or broken.
0
Front clutch seized or plates distorted.
c
Valve body assembly screws missing or not correctly tightened.
P
d
Primary regulator valve sticking.
Rear clutch slipping due to worn plates or faulty check valve in piston.
;;o )>
e
Secondary regulator valve sticking.
Q
Rear clutch seized or plates distorted.
f
Throttle valve sticking.
R
Front band slipping due to faulty servo, broken or worn band.
g
Modulator valve sticking.
S
Rear band slipping due to faulty servo, broken or worn band.
T
One-way clutch slipping or incorrectly installed.
U
One-way clutch seized.
V
Input shaft broken.
W
Pump drive tangs on converter hub broken.
X
Pump worn.
Z
Converter blading and/or one-way clutch failed.
--i
h
j k
Governor valve sticking, leaking or incorrectly assembled. Orifice control valve sticking. First to second shift valve sticking. Second to third shift valve sticking.
m
Second to third shift valve plunger sticking.
n
Converter ..out" check valve missing or sticking.
p
Pump check valve missing or sticking.
--i
z ~ ~ 0
z
-..,
OJ
0
(Q
~ 01
.., ::J (I) ..,
-
-':'4 .......,
..... I
Ia,
TABLE 2-QUICK REFERENCE DIAGNOSIS GUIDE (Continued)
ABCDEFabc
d e f
g h
jklmnpNOPQRSTUVWXYZ
Selec:ting "R", "D", "I" or "2" foi'Dl Rest: Harsh engagement .... .... .... .... .... Delayed engagement ..... ............... No engagement .. .. .. .. .. .. ... . ... . .. ..
. 2 I I . 2 3 I . 2
Startla1 from Rest: No drive forward .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. No. drive in reverse .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. Box seizes ·in reverse .. .. ... . .. .. .. .. Forward movement in neutral ... .
I
.
No second to third change .... .. . Above normal change speeds .. .. . .. .
1
. . . .
1
.
1
Upward Cban1es: No first to second change .. .. .. .. .. ..
.
. 1
Upward Chaa1e Q..lltJ: Slip on first to second change .. .. .. .. Slip on second to third change ....
1 2 3 1 2 3
Harsh first to second change .. .. .. ..
.
1 1
. 3 2 . 2 7 6 s I
. . 2
. .
. . . .
4 4 2 2
Box seizes on second to third change
. . . . . . 1
Downward Chaa1e: No second to first change .. .. .. .. .. ..
.
Box seizes on first to second change
1
.
.
.
. 3
. .
3
. 4
.
. . . .
6 7 3 6 7 2 2 7 3 2 . 3
. 8 9 . 9 10 . .
. . . .
7 8 4 4
. 1
.
10 11 10 6 s 6
6 7 3 3
. .
. . . s
6
. .
. 12 8 9
. 10
. 4
.
. . .
3 4 . 4 s 6 . 4
. 4
.
. s .
.
. . s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
.
. . . . . s . . . . . . . . s . 6 . . . . . . 9 . . . . . . . . . . 5 . . . . . . . . 2 .
. .
. . . . . . . . . .
. . .
. . . .
7 8 3 4
. 2 3 4
. . . . . . .
. 3
. 2
.
. . . . . .
. 4
lei' ~
. . . . .s . . . . . 3 4 . . . • 9 . . 8 . . . . . . . . . 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 . . . . . .
. . . .
. . . . .
.
. .
. 8 9 10 . 8 9 10 . 8 9 10 . s 6 .
. . . . . . .
.
Harsh second to third change .. .. ....
. . . . . • 6 . 7 6 s . . . . 13 8 9 . 10 . .11 . . . s 6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .- . • 7
. s . 4 7 . 3 4
1
Below normal change speeds .. .. ....
1
.
.
. . . . . . .
0
c
~
....I c>
0
~
()
-f
;,o
z>
~
~ 0
z
TABLE 2-QUICK REFERENCE DIAGNOSIS GUIDE (Continued)
A BCDEFabc No third to second change
d e f
g h 3
I
Involuntary high speed third to second change .. . . -· ·· Above normal change speeds .
. 2
.
2
I
s s
l
Below normal change speeds
jklmnpNOPQRSTUVWXYZ
1
6 6
. 4
. 2
. 3
. 4
2
7 8 3
.
Downward Chance Quality:
.
.
6 7 8 4
s
Slip on second to first change . .. . .. Slip on third to second change .. . .. .
1
Harsh second to first change .. . ....
3
.
3
Harsh third to second change ... ... .
s
1
3
. 4
. 2
.
. . . .
. .
. 4
.
3
.
. .
.
.
.
.
.
1
. 2
. 2
.
. . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . .
• 9
.
.
s
6 7 8
. .
1
.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
., J>
;g
-t
~
)>
c-1 0
~
)>
-1 ()
-1 ;;o )>
z
(/")
Coatrol Pressure: Low on idling High on idling Low at stall High at stall
.. .
1
.. .. ... . ... . . . .. . . . . . . .
..
. ... .
.
2 3
I
6 8
2
1 2
.
4 3
s
. 6 8 7 3 . 4 t
--··
Stall Speed: Below 1300 r.p.m . . ... .......... .. ...
.
Over 2000 r.p.m. .... .... .. .. .. .. ....
I
Overheating .... .... .... .... .... .... ....
s
.
1
4
s
4 9
2 3
. . . 2
. 34S67 . 2 3
.
.
.
.
. . . • . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . • 7
9
. . I~0 . . . lz
• 10
.
OJ
IQ <0I
. . . I~..,
. . . . . . . . . . . .1 . . . 8 • 9 • 10 11 • 12 . . .13 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
I! I~
-o
7-20
GROUP 7- AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION If the servos do not operate, disassemble, clean and inspect them to locate source of the trouble. If the air pressure applied to any clutch passage fails to operate the clutch or operates more than one clutch at once, remove, and with air pressure, check fluid passages in the case, pump output and primary shaft to detect cross leakage or obstruction. If the passages are intact and clear, remove the clutch assemblies and clean and inspect the malfunctioning clutch to locate the trouble.
FORWARD CLUTCH (Front)
Apply air pressure to the transmission case forward clutch passage (Fig. 15). A dull thud can be heard when the clutch piston is applied. If no noise is heard, place the finger tips on the clutch and again apply air pressure to the forward clutch passage. Movement of the piston can be felt as the clutch is applied. Caution: Forward and governor passages are common, therefore if there is excess air leakage from governor, clutch operation may not be audible. GOVERNOR
Apply air pressure, to the control pressure to governor passage and listen for a sharp clicking or whistling noise. The noise indicates governor valve movement. REVERSE-HIGH CLUTCH (Rear)
Apply air pressure to the reversehigh clutch passage (Fig. 15). A dull thud indicates that the reverse-high clutch piston has moved to the applied position. If no noise is heard, place the finger tips on the clutch drum and again apply air pressure to detect movement of the piston. INTERMEDIATE SERVO (Front)
Hold the air nozzle in the intermediate servo apply passage (Fig. 15). Operation of the servo is indicated by a tightening of the intermediate band around the drum.
EJ
FIG. 15 Checks
Air Pressure
Continue to apply air pres!>ure into the intermediate servo apply passage, and introduce air pressure into the intermediate servo release passage. The intermediate servo should release the band against the appJy pressure. LOW-REVERSE SERVO (Rear)
Apply air to the low reverse servo apply passage (Fig. 15). The low reverse band should tighten around the drum if the servo is operating properly. CAUTION: DO NOT APPLY AIR PRESSURE TO THE SERVO UNLESS IT IS AS ASSEMBLED TO mE TRANSMISSION OR mE SERVO MAY BE DAMAGED.
DIAGNOSIS GUIDE (Table 2)
The Transmission Diagnosis Guide lists the most common trouble symptoms that may be found in the transmission, and gives the items that should be checked to find the cause of the trouble. The items to check for each trouble symptom are arranged in a logical sequence which should be followed for quickest results. The letter symbols for each item are ex· plained in the Key to the Diagnosis Guide. If items A, B, C, D, E, and the stall test have already been checked during the preliminary checks and adjustments, they need not be repeated when following the Diagnosis Guide.
IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIR
PROCEDURE FOR CHECKING FLUID LEVELS
Refer to Part 7-1, Section 2. It is unnecessary to drain the converter and transmission as a normal service item. The transmission is air and water cooled and therefore keep the underside free from mud, etc. otherwise overheating may result. PRELIMINARY ADJUSTMENTS FLUID LEVEL
Incorrect transmission fluid level can have the following effects, although they may be attributable to other malfunctions:(a) No drive in "D", "1", "2" or "R". (b) Slip and squawk or judder on full throttle starts in "D", "1 ", "2" or "R".
(c) Overheating due to high fluid level during sustained high speeds. ACCELERATOR LINKAGE AND DOWN SHIFT VALVE CONTROL CABLE
If the accelerator linkage is incorrectly adjusted preventing full movement of the accelerator pedal, the carburettor butterfly will not open fully resulting in poor engine performance and insufficient control pressure in relation to accelerator pedal movement. It is therefore essential to ensure that the throttle butterfly fully opens as the accelerator linkage is also conneated to the automatic transmission down shift valve by a cable, it is essential for the linkage and cable to be correctly adjusted, otherwise the
automatic transmission will not operate satisfactorily and premature failure may result. Incorrect adjustment of the downshift valve control cable can have the following results:(a) Excessive bump when "D" or "R" is engaged. (b) No drive in "D". (c) Delayed or no first to second change. (d) Slip on first to second change. (e) Delayed or no second to third change. (f) Slip or engine "run-up" on second to third change. (g) Bumpy gear changes. (h) Slip and squawk or judder on full throttle starts in "D".
PART 7-1 (i) Gearbox changes down too easily. (j) Gearbox will not change down. (k) Slip and squawk or judder on starting in "1 " or "2" . (I) Slip and squawk or judder on starting in "R". (m) Slip but no judder on starting in " R". (n) No drive in "R" . The following method of linkage adjustment is used for the setting of the downshift valve cable. 1. Ensure engine and transmission are at normal operating temperatures, the carburettor choke is fully open and carburettor correctly adjusted. 2. Adjust the rod " F", Fig. 17, to give the correct pedal height. Correct pedal height is 3. 65" to 4 .16" measured between floor pan (mat in position) at right angle to pan and a point on the upper surface of the pedal pad 2.24" from the lower edge. Refer Fig. 17. 3. Disconnect the downshift inner cable trunnion "A" (Fig. 17) from the bell crank assembly with the bell crank assembly set at idle. Adjust trunnion "A" into hole "B" so that the crimped stop on the kickdown inner cable just touches to -h • off the outer cable without slack. Install the clip. NOTE: For safety sake transmission selection should be in park position. 4. Check that at full throttle the cable pull is 1. 75 inches minimum. This dimension is the measured distance that the ferrule on the inner
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (Borg-Warner)
that the choke is fully open. 2. Note that the position of the downshift valve cam when the throttle butterfly is closed, i.e., the accelerator pedal is released. The heel of the downshift valve cam should lay against the large diameter of the downshift valve, see "idling position" Fig. 18, with all slack in the inner cable taken up. 3. With the throttle butterfly fully open, i.e., the accelerator pedal pressed down fully in the kick-down position, the constant radius lobe of the cam should be in contact with the downshift valve, as seen in "kickdown position", Fig. 18. The position of the cam can be varied by altering the adjuster on the downshift valve cable. 4. Fit the sump "nipping" all the sump bolts. Then, in one operation, tighten each bolt to 10 ft. lbs. 5. Road test the vehicle to check the shift speeds (see table), and quality of change. 6. Crimp ferrule to inner cable so that it is .010" off the outer cable end. TABLE OF SHIFT SPEEDS The speeds mentioned below are to the nearest mph.
FIG. 16- Transmission Fluid Dipstick- Typical cable moves away from the end of outer cover adjuster. Service downshift cables differ from original production installation in that they are supplied with the ferrule free to move and therefore the following methods of adjustment can be used with either type of cable. Alternate Method The downshift cable can also be adjusted by determining the position of the downshift valve cam in relation to the accelerator pedal. This method can be used when a new downshift valve cable is being fitted and the transmission sump is removed. The method of adjustment is as follows: 1. Remove all the free play from the accelerator linkage and ensure ADJUST
SHIFT POINTS: (D iff. Ratio 3.23: 1)
ROO • AS.S'v.
TO OITAIN WHEN
SHAFT
7-21
fUll
Shift Throttle
M.P.H.
Shift Throttle
1-2 K.D
31-39
1- 2 Zero
8-10
2-3 K. D
53-61
2- 3 Ze ro
10-13
3-2 K. D
44 -54
3-1 Zero
4-8
3-1 K. D
19 -29
2-1 Zero
10-18
19UOI
THROTTLE
A$SY .
!97:151
TOUCHES THE FLOOI COVEtiNG
PEDAl HEIGHT SETTING
HOLE
lUIIIII(ATE PIVOTS PU CHART
I
MARKED • •
CH ...SSIS lUIRICATION
AUTOMATIC
SEC
l
No
-457· ·
K/0 CAllE
TRANSMISSION
ADJUSTMENT
WITH THE SHAFT ASSY 9919 SET AT IOU. ADJUST TPitNION " A " INTO HOlE I SO THAT THE CRIMPED STOP ON
KICKOOWN INNU ( ',C:E JUST TOUCHES THE OUTEI CAllE- WITHOUT SLACK.
THEN
INSTAll CliP 9125
M.P.H.
FIG. 17- Linkage Adjustment 6 Cylinder Engines
7-22
GROUP 7- AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION the third detent. Ensure that the selector lever is held against the stop in the neutral position, and the transmission lever fully engaged in the neutral detent position.
DOWNSHIFT VALVE CABLE I
IDLING P'OSITION
KICK-DOWN P'OSITION
FIG. 18- Downshift Valve Cable Adjustment MANUAL LINKAGE
Incorrect manual linkage adjustment can result in the following:(a) No drive in "D". (b) Slip and squawk or judder on full throttle starts in "D". (c) No manual third to second change. (d) Slip and squawk or judder on starts in "1" or "2". (e) Slip and squawk or judder on starts in "R". (f) No drive in "R". (g) No parking pawl engagement. (h) Front clutch burning out. It should be noted that incorrect manual linkage adjustment is not the only cause of the above conditions. MANUAL LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT
1. Position transmission selector lever in neutral, to ensure correct engagement it may be necessary to loosen clamp nut on steering column or floor shift lever to selector rod and move shift lever on transmission to
2. With the transmission selector and the steering column or floor shift selector lever still in "Neutral" position, tighten the selector rod clamp nut. 3. With test lamp check that when gear selection is made with the steering column or floor shift selector lever the lamp will only light in "Neutral" and "Park" positions. If the test lamp does not light up in these positions or lights up in all selector positions it will be necessary to readjust linkage or replace switch. SLOW-RUNNING ADJUSTMENT
To obtain the best slow-running adjustment, the engine should be tuned against a vacuum gauge connected to the inlet manifold. This connection can be made by removing the blanking plug in the inlet manifold and fitting the appropriate adaptor and gauge. Before commencing adjustment, check the air cleaner to ensure that the element is clean and in a serviceable condition. Run the engine, so allowing it to warm up. To adjust the slow-running, screw in the slow-running adjustment screw (see Fig. 19) until a fast idling speed is obtained, then turn the volume control screw, Fig. 19, either clockwise or anticlockwise to obtain the maximum vacuum reading. Readjust the idling speed as necessary· and continue the adjustment until the maximum possible vacuum reading is obtained with a reasonable slow-running speed. It
may be necessary to adjust the ignition setting. When a suitable vacuum gauge is not available, the engine should be warmed up and the slow-running adjustment screw turned clockwise so that the engine is running at a fast idling speed. Screw the volume control screw in or out until the engine runs evenly. Readjust the slow-running adjustment screw if the engine is running too fast, followed by a further readjustment of the volume control screw. These operations should be repeated until the idling speed is satisfactory and, if necessary, followed by a re-adjustment to the ignition setting. FRONT BRAKE BAND
The front brake band is used in second to hold the reverse sun gear stationary and therefore provides the second gear ratio. Incorrect front brake band adjustment has the following effects:(a) Slip on first to second change. (b) No first to second change. (c) Delayed or no second to third change. (d) Slip on third to second "kick-down" change. Remove the fifteen bolts and lockwashers securing the transmission oil pan and detach the oil pan and gasket. Slacken the adjusting screw locknut, move the servo lever outwards and place a 0.25 in. gauge between the servo piston pin and the adjusting screw (see Fig. 20). Tighten the adjusting screw to a torque of 10 in. lbs., tighten the locknut and then remove the gauge block. Ensure that the mating faces are clean and refit the oil pan with a new gasket. Tighten the fifteen bolts in their lock washers to a torque of 8 to 10 ft. lbs. REAR BRAKE BAND
The rear brake band is employed in "1" and "R" to hold the pinion carrier stationary. Incorrect rear brake band adjustment can have the following results:(a) No drive in " R" and no engine braking in " 1" .
FIG. 19 - Slow Running Adjustment Screws
FIG. 20 - Front Band Adjustment
To adjust this band, slacken the adjusting screw locknut on the righthand side of the transmission case and then tighten the adjusting screw to a torque of 10 ft. lbs. (Fig. 21 ).
PART 7-1
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (Borg-Warner)
7-23
FIG. 21 -Typical Rear Band Adjustment Slacken the adjusting screw and tighten the locknut.
i
turn
STARTER INHIBITOR SWITCH This particular component is a safety device to ensure that the engine will only start in "Park" or "Neutral" selector positions. If the engine will not start in the "P" or "N" selector positions, or the starter motor operates in all selector positions, then the starter inhibitor switch may require replacement. Check the manual linkage adjustment and wiring connections and loom for faults. If correction is not obtained the switch must be replaced.
TRANSMISSION FLUID DRAIN AND REFILL Normal maintenance and lubrication requirements do not necessitate periodic automatic transmission fluid changes. If a major failure, such as a clutch, band, bearing, etc., has occurred within the transmission, it will have to be removed for service. At this time the converter must be thoroughly flushed to remove all dirt. When filling a dry transmissioQ and converter, install 6 quarts of fluid. Start the engine, shift the selector lever as in Step 5 below, and check and add fluid as necessary. Following is the procedure for partial drain and refill due to minor repairs.
1. Place a drain pan under the transmission. Loosen and remove
the drain plug and drain the fluid. Remove and thoroughly clean the oil pan and screen. Discard the oil pan gasket. l. Place a new gasket on the oil pan, and install the screen and pan oc the transmission. 3. Add three quarts of fluid to the transmission through the filler tube. 4. Run the engine at idle speed for about two minutes. Check the fluid level, and add fluid if necessary. Run the engine at fast idle speed (about 1200 rpm) until it reaches its normal operating temperature. Do not race the encine. 5. Shift the selector lever through all the positions, place it at P, and check the fluid level. If necessary, add enough fluid to the transmission to raise the level to the F (Full) mark on the dipstick. Do not overfill the transmission.
OIL COOLER FLUSHING PROCEDURE When a clutch or band failure or other internal trouble has occurred in the transmission, any metal particles or clutch plate or band material that may have been carried into the cooler should be removed from the system by flushing the cooler and lines before the transmission is put back into service. In ·no case should an automatic transmission having a clutch or band failure or other internal trouble resulting in fluid contamination, be put back into service without first flushing the transmis~ion oil cooler. 1. After installing a new or rebuilt automatic transmission and
converter assembly in the car, Do Not Connect the Cooler Return Une to the Transmission. Place the transmission selector lever in the P (park) position and connect the cooler inlet (converter out) line to the transmission. Place a pan under the end of the cooler return line that will hold transmission fluid. Do Not Start the Engine. 2. Install 8 quarts of automatic transmission fluid meeting Ford Specification. 3. Start the engine and allow it to run at normal idle speed with the selector lever in P, park position. 4. Allow approximately two quarts of transmission fluid to drain into the pan placed under the end of the cooler return line. S. If the fluid does not run clean after draining two quarts of it through the cooler, shut off the engine and add two additional quarts of transmission fluid. 6. Repeat steps 3 through 4 until the transmission fluid flowing out of the cooler return line is clean. 7. If there is no fluid flow or the fluid does not flow freely, shut off the engine and disconnect both cooler lines from the transmission and cooler. 8. Use an air hose with not more than I 00 psi air pressure to reverse flush the cooler lines and the cooler. After reverse flushing, connect both lines at the cooler and the cooler inlet line (converter out) to the transmission. 9. Start the engine and check the fluid flow . If the transmission
7-24
GROUP 7- AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
fluid flows freely, proceed with steps 3 through 5 If there is no fluid flow, check for pinched cooler lines. If the flow is restricted, replace cooler lines and/or the radiator. 10. Shut off the engine, and connect the cooler return line to the transmission. Check the transmission fluid level as indicated under heading Transmission Fluid Level Check. Refer to Part 7- 1, Page 7-11. Add or remove transmission fluid as required until the proper fluid level is obtained on the dipstick. DO NOT OVERFILL THE TRANSMISSION. 11. Do not attempt to correct cooler or cooler line leaks by closing off the lines. OIL COOLER TUBE REPLACEMENT
When fluid leakage is found at the oil cooler, the entire radiator must be replaced. The oil cooler cannot be removed from the radla· tor for replacement. When one or more of the fluid cooler steel tubes must be replaced, each replacement tube must be fabricated from the same size steel tubing as the original line. Using the old tube as a guide, bend the new tube as required . Add the necessary fittings, and install the tube.
Mter the fittings have been tightened, add fluid as needed and check for fluid leaks. (Replacement tubing must be new and clean). GEAR SHIFT LINKAGE COLUMN SHIFT See Group 3, Page 3-.37.
CONSOLE SHIFT Selector Lever Removal and Replacement. 1. Raise the vehicle and remove the manual lever control rod (Fig. 23). 2. Lower the vehicle, remove the selector lever handle attaching screw and remove the handle (Fig. 2~). 3. Remove the two console attaching screws at the front of the console and the four screws in the glovebox and remove the console and gear lever slide assembly. 4. Detach the dial indicator light. 5. The gear lever slide assembly, which incorporates the dial, may be detached from the console by removing the four attaching screws. 6. Remove the selector housing and lever assembly attaching bolts and remove the selector lever and housing. 7. Remove the selector lever to housing attaching nut. Remove the lever from the housing. 8. Install the selector lever in the housing and install the attaching nut. Torque the nut to 20 to 25 ft. lbs. 9. Install the selector lever handle. 10. Position the selector as shown in Fig. 22. With a feeler gauge check the clearance between the detent pawl and plate. The clearance should be 0.005 to 0.010 inches. If necessary adjust the height of the detent pawl as shown in Fig. 22. 11. Remove the handle from the selector lever. 12. Install the selector lever housing and lever assembly as shown in Fig. 23. Torque the attaching screws to 4-6 lbs. it.
FIG. 22- Selector Level Detent Pawl Adjustment
13. Install the gear lever slide and dial assembly on the console. Attach the indicator light. 14. Refit the console ensuring that the dial locating peg is correctly located in the bracket on the selector lever housing. 15. Install the selector lever handle and tighten the attaching screw. 16. Position the selector lever in the "N" position. 17. Raise the vehicle. Install the transmission manual lever rod. With the transmission in neutral and the selector lever against the neutral stop tighten the selector lever to manual lever rod nut. 18. Lower the vehicle and check the transmission operation in each selector lever detent position.
PART 7-1
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (Borg-Warner)
7-25
SEC
FIG. 23 -Selector Change Linkage- Floor Shift
EJ
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
CLEANING TRANSMISSION Clean aH parts with suitable solvent and use moisture-free air to dry off all parts and clean out the various fluid passages. The composidon dutch plates and bands should not be cleaned in a vapor degreaser or with any type of detergent soludon. To clean these p811s, wipe them oft' with a lint-free cloth. New clutch plates and bands should be soaked in transmission fluid for fifteen minutes before they are assembled. If there is reason to believe that the converter has an excessive amount of foreign material in it, a service replacement unit should be installed.
FIG. 24 - Inhibitor Switch
8
GROUP 7- AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7-26
IJ
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
REMOVAL
1. Raise the car and remove the two converter cover attaching bolts at the lower front side of the converter housing. Remove the cover. 2. Remove the drive shaft and install the extension housing seal replacer tool in the extension housing. 3. Disconnect the downshift cable from the bell crank assembly. 4. Remove the two extension housing to crossmember bolts. 5. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing. 6. Remove the parking brake cable from the equalizer lever. 7. Remove the drain plug from the transmission sump and drain the fluid. This will not drain the converter and therefore care should be taken when removing the converter from the transmission since fluid will spill from the converter. Replace the drain plug. 8. Disconnect the fluid cooler lines from the transmission case. Remove the filler tube from the case. 9. Remove the manual linkage rod from the transmission control lever. 10. Disconnect the neutral ~tart switch wires. 11. Remove the starter cable. Re-
D
move the starter attaching bolts and remove the starter from the converter housing. 12. Remove the converter-toflywheel attaching bolts. 13. Position the transmission jack to support the transmission and secure the transmission to the jack with a safety chain. 14. Remove the crossmember and mounting pad attaching bolts and lower the crossmember. 15. Remove the converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts. Lower the transmission and converter assembly and remove it from under the car. INSTALLATION
1. With the converter properly installed, place the transmission on the jack. Secure the transmission to the jack with the safety chain. 2. Raise the transmission into position and install the converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts. Torque the bolts to specification. Remove the safety chain from the transmission. 3. Position the crossmember and mounting pad into position and install the attaching bolts. Torque the bolts to specifications.
4. Lower the transmission and install the extension housing and cross member attaching bolts. Torque the bolts to specification. 5. Install the four flywheel-to-converter attaching nuts. Torque the nuts to specification. 6. Remove the transmission jack. 7. Install the transmission fluid filler tube. Connect the fluid cooling lines to the transmission case. 8. Connect the neutral start switch wires to their respective connectors. 9. Connect the linkage rod to the transmission manual control lever. 10. Connect the speedometer cable to the extension housing. . 11. Install and adjust the parking brake cable at the equalizer lever. 12. Install the converter housing cover and torque the attaching bolts to specification. 13. Install the starter and torque the bolts to specification. Connect the starter cable. 14. Install the drive shaft. Torque the companion flange U-bolt nuts to specification. 15. Lower the car and fill the transmission with fluid. Adjust the manual and kickdown linkage.
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS
TO REMOVE THE VALVE BODIES ASSEMBLY. 1. Jack up the car and fit stands. 2. Remove the transmission drain plug to drain the transmission fluid, bearing in mi.nd that the fluid will be extremely hot if the transmission has just been used. 3. To remove the sump and gasket. unscrew the 15 bolts and lockwashers around the sump flange. 4. Remove the four fluid transfer pipes. which are pushed into the valve bodies assembly and the body of the servos (Fig. 25) and are held in position by the sump. To remove these pipes use a screwdriver with a protected blade, to ensure that the pipe is not damaged, and prise the pipes out. 5. Remove the valve bodies assembly. Disconnect the cable from the downshift cam and remove three bolts, two longer bolts passing through the rear of valve bodies assembly and the shorter bolt
situated to the rear of the filter, securing the valve bodies assembly (Fig. 25). Draw the valve bodies assembly down evenly to avoid distorting the three pipes between the valve bodies and the front pump.
TO DISMANTLE THE VALVE BODIES. To facilitate fittin~ valves, etc. it is advisable to dismantle the assembly on a clean steel bench covered with clean white paper. Also. lay out the parts as they are removed, in order. 1. Withdraw the manual control valve. Unscrew two bolts securing the downshift cam bracket to the valve body and remove the bracket and downshift cam assembly. When the downshift cam and throttle valve stop have been removed the downshift and throttle valves with their springs may be withdrawn (Fig. 26). 2. Remove the filter. The filter
is secured by four short screws, spring washers and flat washers. 3. Remove the three screws securing the primary and secondary regulator valves retainer plate and remove the retainer plate. Care should be taken when removing the three screws since the two regulator valve springs are retained by the plate. With the plate removed withdraw the primary regulator valve spring, sleeve and valve. Remove the secondary regulator valve spring and valve (Fig. 26). 4. To separate the upper and lower valve bodies remove the six cheese-head screws (one long and five short) from the lower valve body and the two cheese-head screws from the upper valve body. 5. The upper valve body (Fig. 27) has two end plates, each secured by three cheese-headed screws. Remove . these retainer plates followed by the 2-3 valve, spring, plunger and 1-2 valve from the
PART 7-1 rear of the body. From the front of the body withdraw the 1-2 valve spring and plunger. 6. Remove the oil tube collector by unscrewing the eight cheesehead screws. Keeping the separator plate uppermost, remove two screws situated in the rear filter body and remove the governor line plate. The separator plate can now be removed, carefully, revealing the 3-2 dump valve pump, check valve and downshift valve keep plate in the lower valve body (Fig. 26). Remove these items. 7. The servo orifice control valve is retained by a keep plate and the modulator valve by a small dowel pin. Remove the keep plate and dowel pin then remove both valves and springs (see Fig. 27). 8. Remove the keep plate from the range control valve body. Remove the retaining plug and range control valve (Fig. 26). To avoid confusiOn each component of the valve bodies assembly should be washed separately in clean industrial solvent, carefully inspected and replaced in the order in which they were removed. Before installing parts they should be lubricated with automatic transmission fluid . REASSEMBLING THE VALVE BODIES 1. Refit the modulator valve spring, valve plunger, valve and plug. Secure the plug with the dowel. Refit the servo orifice control valve and spring, locating the spring inside the counterbore in the end of the valve and retain with the keep plate (Fig. 27). 2. Referring to Fig. 27 reposition the downshift valve keep plate, 3-2 dump valve spring and ball, and disc type valve. 3. Carefully reposition the separator plate on top of the lower valve body, making sure that the check valve is not displaced and particularly that the 3-2 dump valve ball is centrally located in the separator plate hole. Reposition the governor line plate and secure with. two screws from beneath in the rear of the valve bodies assembly. Before tightening these screws to 20 to 30 in. lbs., make sure that the dump valve is positioned correctly. 4. Fit the regulator valves (Fig. 26). Fit the primary regulator valve, sleeve and spring in the lower valve body. Then, replace secondary regulator valve, followed by its
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (Borg-Warner)
FIG. 25 -
Transfer Pipes
LOWER VALVE B \
Q.-.OUMP VALVE ,BALL
SERVO ORIF-ICE CONTROL VALVE
KEEP PLATE
SERVO OR IF\ CE CONTROL VALVE
MANUAL CONTROL VALVE
I ~~'"'"""' FIG. 26- Exploded View of Lower Valve Body and Valves
7-27
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7-28
1ST-2ND SHIFT VALVE J...
~
lND-JRD PLUNGER UPPER VALVE BODY
FIG. 27- Exploded View of Upper Valve Body and Valves
·. ~ .
FIG. 28- Exploded View of G.T.A. Control Valve and Body
/ ~
PART 7-1 spring. Fit the retainer plate and secure with three screws. 5. Fit the 1-2, 2-3 valves (Fig. 28). Reposition the 1-2 spring, plunger and valve in the upper valve body. Also, refit the 2-3 plunger, 'spring and valve in the upper valve body. These valves, springs and plungers are of different diameter and cannot be confused. Refit and secure the retainer plates using three screws and spring washers for each. Torque to 20 to 30 in. lbs. Here, again, the retainer plates arc dissimilar and cannot be confused. Fit the range control valve and retaining plug to the range control body then fit the keep plate (Fig. 26). 6. Reposition the upper valve body and the range control valve body on the separator plate and secure with eight screws, tightening them to a torque of 20 to 30 in. lbs. (Fig. 30). 7. Replace the manual control valve, downshift and throttle valves (Fig. 26). The downshift and throttle valve spring is interposed between the two valves, locating in the counter bore in the end of the downshift valve. 8. Reposition the downshift cam and bracket with the cam in contact with the downshift valve and secure with two bolts. Tighten to 20 or 30 in. lbs. 9. Refit the oil tube collector and secure with eight screws. Tighten the screws to a torque of 20 to 30 in. lbs. 10. Refit the oil strainer ensuring that it is fiat to -h in. concave and is free from kinks. TO REFIT THE VALVE BODIES ASSEMBLY 1. If removed, replace the oil pick-up tubes in the pump housing (Fig. 30). The inner pair of tubes are smaller in diameter than the other two. One is a short straight tube, the other is bent into several planes with one end in the pump housing and the other in the transmission case. The outer tubes are of different diameters and lengths and cannot be confused or incorrectly fitted . 2. Position the valve bodies assembly, engaging the oil tubes in the oil tube collector and making sure the manual control valve is engaged with the peg on the operating lever. Secure the assembly with three bolts, washers and spring washers. The two longer bolts
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (Borg-Warner) pass through the rear of the valve bodies assembly and the shor!l.:r bolt is positioned centrally just to the rear of the filter (Fig. 26). 3. Reconnect the downshift valve cable to the cam and check its adjustment, 4. Fit the fluid transfer pipes (Fig. 30). These pipes are a push fit and are held in position by the sump, when fitted. Each tube is different in length and shape, and is shaped in such a way that it cannot be refitted incorrectly. 5. The front band should be adjusted as previously described. 6. Refit the sump. Ensure that the lower face of the transmission and the sump flange are perfectly clean. Fit a new gasket and replace the sump. Secure with fifteen bolts and spring washers, tightening them evenly to a torque of 8 to 10 ft. lbs. 7. Check the rear band adjust-
ment.
FIG. 29 - Tightening Valve Body Screws 8. Refill the transmission. Do not add the quantity of oil required to completely fill an empty transmission, since when the drain plug was removed, the fluid from the converter was not drained. Check the level when the gearbox is at normal operating temperature.
FIG. 30- Location of Oil Tubes
7-29
TO DISMANTI..E TRANSMISSION 1. Remove the convertor from the convertor housing, taking care to ensure that the pumo driving lugs are not damaged. Note: The torque convertor is still filled with fluid and therefore precautions should be taken to avoid spillage. 2. Remove the six bolts and spring washers securing the convertor housing to the transmission case and remove the convertor housing. 3. To remove the sump unscrew the fifteen bolts and spring washers around the sumo flange and remove the sump together with its gasket. Remove the fovr fluid transfer pipes (Fig. 25), by prising out with the protected blade of a screwdriver. 4. Withdraw the valve bodies assemblv. Disconnect the downshift valve cable from the cam. Remove the two rear bolts holding rear end of valve bodies assembly and the bolt just to the rear of the pump filter (Fig. 25) to remove the valve bodies assembly, taking care to draw this off evenly to avoid damage to the pump tubes. s; Withdraw the four oil tubes from the pump adaotor. It will be seen that the outside pair are of unequal diameter and therefore cannot be fitted incorrectly. The inner pair are the same diameter, the short straight one will pull out. The long bent one may require the adaptor on the outside of the transmission case being loosened or removed before this tube can be removed. 6. Remove the four bolts and spring washers securing the extension housing to the transmission and carefully withdraw the extension housing rearward . 7. The speedometer driving gear is retained in one direction by a circlip and driven and retained in the other direction by a ball. Expand the circlip and remove. Remove the speedometer driving gear and ball. 8. Before removing the governor it should be noted that the small rectangular plate secured by two countersunk screws should face rearwards . The drive for the governor is transmitted through a ball and, having removed the circlio and drawn the governor rearwards,
GROUP 7- AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION care should be taken not to lose the ball.
FIG. 31 -Checking Gear Train End-Float 9. The rear adaptor is retained by five bolts and spring washers around the casing. Remove these and carefully withdraw the adaptor body and plate. This will reveal three sealing rings around the output shaft. T hese three rings are cast iron and should be treated carefully during removal to prevent damage. 10. The two servos are each sec ured by two bolts and spring washers an d removal of these bolts will enable the servos to be withdrawn. When removing the servos ensu re tha t the two operating struts, which transmit movement from the se rvos to the bands, do not fall out, otherwise they may be lost or damaged.
11. Check gear train end float. Using a screwdriver between the transmission case and the front of the front clutch, lever the front clutch assembly as far rearwards as possible to take up any end float. Set up an indicator dial gauge as shown (Fig. 31) and set gauge to zero. Make sure the front clutch is as far rearwards as possible then lever the front clutch assembly forward, read the gauge to determine the end float and record.
If this is not between .010-.030 inches the front thrust washer mtJst be replaced with one of a different thickness on reassembly, see specifications for thrust washer dimensions.
12. Withdraw the pump assembly, gasket and thrust washer a~ter removing the six bolts and spnng washers around the pump.
13. Withdraw the input shaft and front clutch assembly (Fig. 32). Two thrust washers are positioned between the front and rear clutches, the phosphor bronze washer bearing against the ground rear face of the front clutch, and the steel wasner, which has two flats on the internal diameter, locating on the rear clutch projection.
14. Withdraw the rear clutch and sun gears (Fig. 33). The needle thrust race and washer are positioned on the rear of the front sun gear shaft and sliould be removed. Disengage the front band from the stop in the case, tilt slightly and remove.
r FIG. 32 - Removing Front Clutch and Input Shaft Assembly
side of the case in line with the centre support and positioned 1200 either side of the rear servo front securing screw. Mark the centre support in relation to the case, and if necessary, tap the end of the output shaft with a hide mallet. This will drive the centre support forward so that it can be removed. 16. Withdraw the planet gear assembly. A steel washer and needle thrust washer is positioned between the planet gear assembly and the output shaft.
IS. Remove the centre support. Unscrew the two centre support securing screws and lockwashers. These screws are around the out-
FIG. 33 - Removing Rear Clutch and Sun Gears 17. Disengage the rear band from the stop and remove. 18. Extract the one-way clutch from the outer race and then remove the outer race which is secured by a circlip in the planet gear assembly (Fig. 44). 19. Withdraw the output shaft and thrust washer. If necessary, separate the output shaft from the ring gear by removing the circlip which retains them together. 20. Unscrew the inhibitor switch screws and remove the inhibitor switch. Unscrew the downshift valve cable retainer and remove the cable. Drive out the tension pin securing the manual valve operating lever to the cross-shaft and draw to one side. Care should be taken not to lose the detent ball and spring when removing this lever. . . 21. Drive out the tension pm securing the cross-shaft locating collar. The cross-shaft may now be withdrawn by tapping the end to which the manual linkage was previously attached. This will enable the spring, inhibitor switch link, parking pawl linkage, collar and welsh plug to be removed.
PART 7-1
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (Borg-Warner)
22. Withdraw the parking pawl actuating mechanism (Fig. 34) after removing the spring clip and washer. Careful note should be made of the manner in which the spring is fitted before removal since when removed the assembly will disengage. 23. From m•tside the case drive out the tension pin retaining one parking pawl pivot pin and drive out the pivot pin from inside the case. The second pivot pin is not secured but is retained by a lug on the extension housing. If the case is upended and gently tapped this pin will fall out and the parking pawl can be removed.
FIG. 34- Manual Valve Lever 14. Remove the locknut from the rear band adjuster and screw the adjuster screw into the case to remove iL
THE SUB-ASSEMBLIES FRONT PUMP TO DISMANTLE:
ing and driven gears in the pump body, noting the marks made when dismantling, see above, and lightly lubricate with transmission fluid. Fit a new sealing ring around the periphery of the pump body. Position the pump body on the pump adaptor, lining up the hole in the pump body segment with the corresponding hole in the pump adaptor. Secure the pump body to the pump adaptor with five bolts, and lockwashers and one cheesehead screw and lockwasher.
FRONT CLUTCH AND INPUT SHAFT ASSEMBLY
To Dismantle: With the aid of a screwdriver remove the circlip retaining the input shaft to the clutch cylinder. Then withdraw the input shaft and thrust washer. Remove the clutch plates, noting their positions. An internally toothed plate should be the first plate viewed when the input shaft is removed and the thick externally splined pressure plate the last, the plates alternating. Remove the clutch inner hub which will reveal a further large circlip retaining the diaphragm spring and piston. Remove this circlip and spring. To remove the piston, it is neces~ary to blank off one end of the clutch cylinder piston guide and apply air pressure, via a suitable adaptor. at the other end of the guide. The outer face of the pistl'n has a steel ring. pressed into it. Remove the rubber sealing ring from the outer periphery of the
Remove the five bolts, one cheese-head screw and spring washer to separate the pump body from the pump adaptor. Mark both inner and outer gears to ensure that when reassembled to gear faces are replaced in the same position as removed . Remove both gears. Remove the sealing ring from around the periphery of the pump body (Fig. 36). Carefully clean and inspect each part for signs of wear, paying particular attention to the whitt: metal bearings in the pump body, adaptor and driving gear. If necessary, remove the seal from the pump body.
TO REASSEMBLE: If removed, replace the seal in the pump body. Replace the driv-
FIG. 35 - RefiHing Front Clutch Piston
7-31
piston and also the seal from the piston guide in the clutch cylinder.
To Reassemble (Fig. 37) Thoroughly clean and inspect all parts and lubricate with transmission fluid prior to assembly. Replace the rubber seals around the periphery of the piston and the piston guide. Refit the piston, using Tool No. B.W. 42 (Fig. 36) ensuring that the steel pressure ring on the outer face of the piston is correctly seated. Reposition the spring with the fingers resting on the steel pressure ring of the piston and secure with the large circlip. Refit the thick externally splined pressure plate, with the plain face outwards and alternatively internally and externally splined clutch plate, ending with the internally splined plate. The front clutch externally toothed plates are flat, whereas those for the rear clutch are slightly dished. Replace the central hub and thrust washer. Reposition the input shaft and secure with a large circlip.
REAR CLUTCH AND FORWARD SUN GEAR ASSEMBLY
To Dismantle: Carefully remove the three scaling rings, two from the front end and one from the rear end of the forward sun gear shaft. Withdraw the forward sun gear shaft from Rethe rear clutch assembly. move the large circlip retaining the clutch plates, with the aid of a Remove the thick screwdriver. externally splined spacer plate and the alternative internally and externally splined plates. Locate the clutch spring compressor on the clutch spring retaining plate so that the ends of the circlip are opposite the latge "window" in the tool (Fig. 38). Place the assembly in a press and press down onto the tool to compress the spring. Using circlip pliers, remove the circlip and release the press until the spring is fully released and then remove from the press. Remove the spring and spring seat. To remove the piston, apply air pressure to the hole in the groove next to the sealing ring closest to the front drum. Remove the rubber sealing rings from around the periphery of the
GROUP 7- AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7-32
TORQUE CONVERTER SUPPORT
(?)OUTLET SEALING RING
FIG. 36- Pump piston and piston guide . Carefully remove the three sealing rings from the reverse sun gear shaft.
bly, so sandwiching the thrust race between the rear face of the reverse sun gear and the front face of the forward sun gear. Replace the three sealing rings in the appropriate grooves. Replace the needle thrust race on the rear of the forward sun gear shaft. Fit the steel washer to the shaft, after the thrust race, with the lip towards the rear.
To Reassemble: Thoroughly clean and inspect all parts, paying particular attention to the needle race which supports the forward sun gear shaft. Replace the rubber seals around the periphery of the piston and piston guide. Position the piston, using Tool No. B.W. 41 (Fig. 39), spring and spring seat, fit the clutch spring compressor tool and, using a press, compress the spring until the circlip groove on the piston guide is uncovered . Refit the circlip, ensuring that it is seated correctly in the groove. Release the press and remove the clutch spring compressor. Rerlace the clutch plates, externall y splined plate first. and then alternating internally and externally splined plates, ending with the thick externally splincd spacer plate (Fig. 40). Note that the outer splined plates for the rear clutch are dished, whereas the front clutch plates are flat. These dished plates can be fitted so that the dishing is
s:::: : ~
CIRCLIP
~ ~~ ~ : ;I ~
~· 1
"-!_../
r!:
FIG. 37- Refitting Front Clutch Plates either towards or away from the piston, but they must all face the same way. Secure the clutch plates with the large circlip. Slide one .needle thrust race onto the forward end of the forward sun gear shaft and seat on the front face of the forward sun gear. Pass the' forward sun gear shaft through the centre of the rear clutch assem-
.
CLUTCH SPRING COMPRE SS OR TOOL NO. BW. l7A
FIG. 38 - Dismantling Rear Clutch
PART 7-1
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (Borg-Warner)
FRONT SERVO
To Dismantle: Depress the servo pis~on and pistoh guide assembly, to overcome spring pressure, and remove the circlip which retains these parts (Fig. 41). The piston spring will then push the piston and its guide from the servo housing. Withdraw the piston from the guide and extract the spring. Remove the square section sealin~ ring from ~he guide and the two c1rcular sectiOn sealing rings from the piston. To remove the operating lever from the housing it is necessary to withdraw the lever's pivot which may be retained by a pin in the servo housing. This pin can ~e tapped out with the aid of an i m. diameter drift.
To Reassemble: If the operating lever has been removed from the servo housing it should be refitted so that the adjusting screw will pass thro~gh th.e hole in the end of the housmg. F1t the pivot through the housing and operating lever, ensuring that !he retaining pin holes in the housmg and pivot are in line. Fit the retaining pin . Fit the two circular section sealing rings to the piston and the square section scaling ring to the piston guide . Insert the piston into the guid~ so that the nanges of the piston and guide ab~t. . Place t~e piston retracting sprmg m the P!Ston and insert the assembly, p1s-
ton first, into the housing. Retain with the circlip after depressing the piston guide to overcome spring pressure. REAR SERVO
To Dismantle: To withdraw the servo piston it is unnecessary to remove the operating lever, the pivot of which is secured in the housing. Depress the straight arm of the spring and disengage from the lug cast in the side of the servo body. Remove the !'.pring, withdraw the piston (see (Fig. 42).
To Reassemble: If removed, fit the sealing ring to the piston. Hold the operating lever away from the piston bore and insert the piston spigot into the conical seat of the operating lever. It is then possible to manoeuvre the piston into the housing (Fig. 38). Fit the spring to pivot pin engaging the bent arm with the servo lever and depress the straight spring arm and engage with the lug on the servo body. GOVERNOR
To Dismantle: To separate the two parts of the governor body remove the two cheese-headed screws, together with their spring washers. The governor valve and spring can be removed from the governor' weight in one part of the body by re~ov ing the governor spnng retamer which pa~tially encircles the governor weight stem (Fig. 43). If necessary, remove the cover plate whiclt is retained by two screws to that part of the body which accommodates the governor weight.
To Reassemble: If the cover plate has been re-
FIG. 39 - Fitting Rear Clutch Piston
7-33
moved, refit and retain with the two screws. Pass the stem of the governor weight through the body from the top, slide the valve, smaller diameter first, over the governor weights stem, followed by the spring and sec~re with the . retainer, dished s1de to the sprmg. After cleaning the mating faces, secure the two parts of the g:. ;ernor body together with the two cheeseheaded screws and spring washers.
FIG. 40 - Fitting Rear Clutch Plates TO REASSEMBLE THE TRANSMISSION
1. Refit the rear band adjuster by screwing into the case from the inside and fit the locknut to the thread on the outside of the case. Reposition the parking pawl mechanism in the box and replace the two pivot pins. The stepped pivot should be tapped right home and a new tension pin fitted to the case to prevent this pivot coming out. 2. The parking pawl and inhibitor switch actuating mechanism should be repositioned, in the manner removed, on the pivot in the case (see Fig. 34). To assist, the spring should not be attached at one end until the complete unit is assembled and secured with the washer and spring clip. Then, the free end can be positioned to tension the spring. Before continuing with the assembly check the working of the parking pawl by manual operation. 3. Replace the seal in the crossshaft boss in the case. Carefully slide the cross-shaft into the case from the side opposite to the inhibitor switch and position on the shaft the collar, parking pawl actuating mechanism and bias spring, in that order (Fig. 34). Pass the shaft through into the opposite boss in the case and locate in the correct position with the collar and tension pin. Position the spring and ball and compress with a piece
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7-34
ADJUSTING SCREW
PISTON RETRACTING SPRING
PISTON GU IDE
ST RUT LOCATING GROO VE
APPLY PORT
OPERATING LEVER
FIG. 41 -Exploded View of Front Servo -
'
1 4
Rotate the piston about the cup in the lever to remove or replace
Secure with the large circlip (Fig. 46). Fit the one way clutch to the outer race with the lips to the outside. (See Fig. 46). Turning the cage whilst presSmg inwards will assist in fitting the one way clutch. Then, fit the centre support to the assembly, so that the centre bou is inside the one way clutch. Place
ON E WAY CLUTCH OUTER RACE
FIG. 42 - FiHing Rear Servo Piston of tube, at the same time sliding the · manual valve detent arc over the ball. When in position line up the hole in the cross-shaft with the hole in the cam boss and secure with a tension pin. Connect the parking pawl operating link to the actuating mechanism and secure with the washer and spring clip. 4. Before fitting the output shaft, position the rear thrust washer on the inside rear face of the case, retaining in position, if necessary, with petroleum jelly. The three lugs on this thrust washer will contact protrusions in the case casting to prevent the thrust washer from turning. S. Fit the one way clutch outer race to the planet gear carrier, engaging the Jugs on the outer race with the driving lugs on the carrier.
FIG. 44 - Fitting the One Way Clutch ~ VALVE ~ GOVERNOR ~
-
SPRING
...,...__(0SPRING GOVERNOR
PRESSURE
RETAINER
OUTLET
FIG. 43 - Governor Exploded the steel washer onto the rear of the planet gear assembly with the lip rearwards, and then fit a needle thrust race after the steel washer. 6. Position the rear band in the case, engaging the end of the band with the adjuster. 7. Offer up the1 planet gear as-
~embly and centre support, engagmg the planet gears with the ring · gear. Ali~n the marks, made when di_smantling. on the centre support w1th the marks on the case and gently tap the centre support into position. Ensure that the holes in the centre support are in line with the case holes and fit the two external securing bolts and lockwashers. These lockwashers are also oil seals, and must, therefore be fitted with the rim facing th~ transmission case.
8. Reposition the forward band in the case, engaging the end of the band with the fixed stop on the centre web of the case. 9. Assemble the rear clutch to the front clutch. Centralise the thrust washer in the centre of the
PART 7-1
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (Borg-Warner)
front clutch. Make sure the sealing rings on the sun gear part of the rear clutch are correctly located and, if of the hook type, locked. Fit the steel thrust washer to the fro~t of the rear clutch engaging the mternal flats on the washer with the corresponding flats on the rear clutch . Fit the phosphor bronze thrust washer alongside the steel thrust washer. Align the splines of the front clutch plates and carefully assemble the rear clutch to the front clutch. 10. Fit the front and rear clutches. Check that the needle thrust race is fttted to the rear of the forward sun gear shaft and the sealing rings are correctly seated. Offer up the front and rear clutch assemblies (Fig. 45), passing through the. ~ront band. When correctly posttJOncd rotate the input shaft to ensure that the asscmblv will turn freelv . · 11. Fit the pump. Position the thrust washer on the rear face of the pump. If incorrect end float was noted when dismantling, replace wtth the appropriate thrust washer to allow specified end float.
the end-float. If this figure is not between 0.010 in . and 0 .030 in., remove the front pump and r!place the thrust washer. using ~ne of a different thickness, see specifications. REAR ADAPTOR (Single Range)
13. Reposition the rea: adaptor plate. 14. Fit the rear adaptor body Car~fully refit the adaptor body makmg sur~ the sealing rincs are no_t damaged. Align the bolt~holes. usmg the small hole as a register, and secure with the five bolts and lockwashers. 15. Refit the governor (Fig. 46). Turn the output shaft until the governor driving ball hole is uppermost and position the ball. Then. slid_e on the governor assembly ensunng that the governor cover plate secured by two screws is facing rearwards. Fit the governor retaining circlip using circlip pliers.
at one end to locate the centre support (Fig. 47).
19. Replace the valve bodies assembly ~s pr,eviously described. 20. AdJUSt the servos as previously described. 21. Replace the sump. Fit a new gasket to the sump flange and replace the sump. Tighten the bolts evenly to 8 to I 0 ft. lbs t?rque. Replace the drain plug and ttghten to a torque of l 0 to 14 ft. lbs. 22. Refit the inhibitor switch, ensuring the flats on the shaft mate correctly. Secure with two screws and lock washers. 23. Refit convertor housing to transmission case.
16. Replace the speedometer driving gear. Position the drive ball in the output shaft and fit the speedometer driving gear. Secure with the circlip. 17. Clean the rear face of the transmission and place a new gasket in position. Refit the extension housing and secure with the four bolts and lockwashers. 18. Refit the front and rear servos. Stick the operating strut to the servo operating arm by means of petroleum jelly and offer the servo assembly into position engaging the strut with the sho~ band. The two bolts for the front s~:rvo are of equal length. but the forward bolt for the rear servo is longer and has a reduced diameter
FIG. 45 - Fitting Front and Rear Clutches See specifications. Using a new gasket, replace the pump and secure with six bolts and Jockwashers. 12. Check the gear train endfloat. Using a screwdriver between the case and the front of the front clutch, push the front clutch as far rearwards as possible to take up any end-float. Set up a dial indicator gauge as shown in Fig. 31 and set the gauge to zero. Make sure the front clutch is as far rearwards as possible and then lever the front clutch assembly forward. reading the gauge to determine
7-35
FIG. 47 Servo
Replacing the Rear
24. Fit the torque convertor to the transmission. Note: If the torque converter is fitted at this stage there is Jess danger of damaging the pump oil seal. Align the pump drive tangs with the slots in the inner gear and carefully replace the torque converter taking care not to damage the oil seal
FIG. 46 - RefiHing the Governor
If the transmission is to be held in stock fit a transit strap across the converter housing to prevent the torque converter from being accidentally removed, and to prevent oil seal or drive damage.
REFERENCE TO SERVICE INFORMATION AND NOTES Date
Letter No.
Pace
Brief Detail
.
-
7-37
PART 7-2
C4 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING When diagnosing transmission problems, first refer to the diagnosis guide for detailed information on the items that could be causing the problem. The following preliminary checks should be made in the order given: 1. Check the fluid level. Check the fluid for a burnt clutch plate odor. 1. Check the engine idle speed and dashpot adjustments. 3. Check the manual linkage adjustment. 4. Check the accelerator pedal height and downshift linkage. S. Check the throttle linkage to assure wide open throttle operation. 6. Check the engine for proper operation.
FLUID AERATION CHECK A fluid level that is too high will cause the fluid to become aerated. Aerated fluid will cause low control pressure, and the aerated fluid may be forced out the vent. Check the transmission fluid level. Low fluid level can affect the operation of the transmission, and may indicate fluid leaks that could cause transmission damage.
TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL CHECK 1. Make sure that the vehicle is standing level. Then firmly apply the parking brake. 2. Run the engine at normal idle speed. If the transmission fluid is cold, run the engine at fast idle speed (about 1200 rpm) until the ftuid reaches its normal operating temperature. When the ftuid is warm, slow the engine down to normal idle speed. 3. Shift the selector lever through all positions, and place the lever at P. Do not turn off the engine during the fluid level checks. 4. Clean all dirt from the transmission fluid dipstick cap before removing the dipstick from the filler tube. S. Pull the dipstick out of the tube, wipe it clean, and push it all the way back into the tube.
TRANSMISSION FLUID LEAKAGE CHECKS Check the speedometer cable connection at the transmission. Leakage at the oil pan gasket often can be stopped by tightening the attaching bolts to the proper torque. If necessary, replace the gasket. Check the fluid filler tube connection at the transmission. If the filler tube 0-ring seal is leaking, replace the seal. The transmission fluid is water cooled; check the fluid lines and fittings between the transmission and the cooler in the radiator tank for looseness, wear, or damage. If leakage cannot be stopped by tightening a fitting, replace the defective parts. Check the engine coolant in the radiator. If transmission ftuid is present in the coolant, the cooler in the radiator tank is probably leaking.
6. Pull the dipstick out of the tube again, and check the fluid level. If necessary, add enough fluid to the transmission through the filler tube to raise the fluid level to the F (full) mark on the dipstick. Do not overfill the traasmission.
The cooler can be further checked for leaks by disconnecting the lines at the cooler fittings and applying 5 psi air pressure to the fittings. The radiator cap must be removed when making this check to relieve the pres~re on the exterior side of the cooler. If the cooler is leaking and will not hold this pressure, the radiator must be replaced. The cooler cannot be replaced separately. If leakage is found at either the throttle lever shaft or the manual lever shaft, replace either or both seals. Inspect the pipe plug in the case. If the plug shows leakage, torque the plug to specification. If tightening does not stop the leaks, replace the plug. When converter drain plugs leak, remove the two drain plugs with a six-point wrench. Coat the threads with a sealing compound, and install the plugs. Torque the drain plugs to specification. Fluid leakage from the converter housing may be caused by engine oil leaking past the rear main bearing or from oil gallery plugs. Be sure to determine the exact cause of the leak. Oil-soluble aniline or fluorescent dyes premixed at the ratio of l teaspoon of dye powder to t pint of transmission fluid have proved helpful in locating the source of the fluid leakage. Such dyes may be used to determine whether an engine oil or transmission fluid leak is present, or if the fluid in the oil cooler leaks into the engine coolant system. A black light, however, must be used with the fluorescent dye solution.
7-38
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
FLUID LEAKAGE CONVERTER AREA In diagnosing and correcting fluid leaks in the front pump and converter area, use the following procedures to facilitate locating the exact cause of the leakage. Leakage at the front of the transmission, as evidenced by fluid around the converter housing, may have several sources. By careful observation, it is possible, in many instances, to pinpoint the source of the leak before removing the transmission from the car. The paths which the fluid takes to reach the bottom of the converter housing are shown in Fig. I. 1. Fluid leaking by the front pump seal lip will tend to move
along the drive hub and onto the back of the impeller housing. Except in the case of a total seal failure, fluid leakage by the lip of the seal will be deposited on the inside of the converter housing only, near the outside diameter of the housing. 2. Fluid leakage by the outside diameter of the seal and front pump body will follow the same path as leaks by the front pump seal or may run down the face of the front pump. 3. Fluid that leaks by a front pump and converter housing to case bolts will be deposited on the inside of the converter housing only. Fluid will not be deposited on the back of the converter. 4. Leakage by the front pump to
CONVERTER
CONVERTER DRAIN PLUG LEAK
D1513-A
FIG. 1 - Typical Converter Area leakage Checks
case and 0-ring seal may cause fluid to be deposited on the outside lower part of the converter housing as shown in Fig. I. 5. Fluid leakage from the converter drain plugs will appear at the outside diameter of the converter. Engine oil leaks are sometimes improperly diagnosed as front pump seal leaks. The following areas of possible leakage should also be checked to determine if engine oil leakage is causing the problem : (a) Leakage at the rocker arm cover (valley cover) may allow oil to flow over the converter housing or seep down between the converter housing and cylinder block causing oil to be present in or at the bottom of the converter housing. (b) Oil gallery plug leaks will allow oil to flow down the rear face of the block to the bottom of the converter housing. (c) Leakage by the crankshaft seal will work back to the flywheel, and then into the converter housing. Fluid leakage from other areas, forward of the transmission could cause fluid to be present around the converter housing due to blow-back or road draft. The following procedure should be used to determine the cause of leakage before any repairs are made : (a) Remove the transmission dipstick and note the color of the fluid. Original factory fill fluid is dyed red to aid in determining if leakage is from the engine or transmission. Unless a considerable amount of make-up fluid has been added or the fluid has been changed, the red color should assist in pinpointing the leak. Since road draft may cause leaking valley cover oil to be present on the transmission, this leakage, if present, should be eliminated before performing work on the transmission. (b) Remove the converter lower housing cover. Clean off any fluid from the top and bottom of the converter housing, front of the transmission case, and rear face of the engine and engine oil pan. Clean the converter area by washing with suitable non-flammable solvent, and blow dry with compressed air. (c) Wash out the converter housing, the front of the flywheel, and the converter drain plugs. The converter housing may be washed out using cleaning solvent and a squirttype oil can. Blow all washed areas dry with compressed air.
PART
7-2- C4
%2'
STEEl PlATE X 1 ¥a •, DRill TO SUIT
7-39
~ HEX. HEAD SCREW
ff
Ya•
DISHED OR FlAT WASHER 1 3,4 • O.D., 1~2· I. D.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
%'-24 X
Y2
HEX. NUT %"-24 WElD TOGETHER
CONTROl PRESSURE TAKE-Off HOlE
RUBBER PlUG
1 \12" DIA. X 2" lONG \12" SPACERB2Q-9438-A
HOLE THRU APPROXIMATElY 40 DUROMETER
PLUG CHAIN, 10' lONG
WElD TOGETHER SECURElY -MUST NOT lEAK
STANDARD BOlT \12"-13 X 4\12" lONG SQUARE THREAD END REMOVE HEAD AND WElD TO WASHER
VACUUM UNIT
D1504-A
FIG. 4- Vacuum Diaphragm and Control Pressure Connecting Point - C4 Transmission
STANDARD FIITING87971-S
VALVE
D1067-A
FIG. 2- Converter Leak Checking Tool (d) Start and run the engine until the transmission reaches its normal operating temperature. Observe the back of the block and top of the converter housing for evidence of fluid leakage. Raise the car on a hoist and run the engine at fast idle, then at engine idle, occasionally shifting to the drive and reverse ranges to increase pressures within the transmission. Observe the front of the flywheel, back of the block (in as far as possible), and inside the converter housing (Fig. 1). Run the engine until fluid leakage is evident and the probable source of leakage can be determined. CONVERTER LEAKAGE CllECK During the above fluid leakage checks, if there are indications that the welds on the torque converter are leaking, the converter will have to be removed and the following check made before the unit is replaced: A leak checking tool (Fig. 2), can be made from standard parts. 1. Install the plug in the converter (Fig. 3) and expand it by tightening the wing nut. Attach the safety chains. 2. Install the air valve in one of the drain plug holes. 3. Introduce air pressure into the converter housing. Check the pressure with a tyre gauge and adjust it to 20 psi.
MANUAL LINKAGE CHECKS Correct manual linkage adjustment is necessary to position the manual valve for proper fluid pressure direction to the different transmission components. Improperly adjusted manual linkage may cause cross-leakage and subsequent transmission failure. Refer to Linkage Adjustments for detailed manual linkage adjustment procedures.
~Tire
Pressure Gouge
FIG. 3 - Typical Converter Leak Checking Tool 4. Place the converter in a tank of water. Observe the weld areas for bubbles. If no bubbles are observed, it may be assumed that the welds are not leaking.
ENGINE IDLE SPEED CHECK Check and, if necessary, adjust the engine idle speed, using the procedure given in Group 10. If the idle speed is too low, the engine will run roughly. An idle speed that is too high will cause the car to creep when the transmission is shifted into gear and will cause rough transmission engagement.
CONTROL PRESSURE AND VACUUM DIAPHRAGM UNIT CHECK When the vacuum diaphragm unit (Fig. 4) is operating properly and the downshift linkage is adjusted properly, all the transmission shifts (automatic and kickdown) should occur within the road speed limits specified in the Specification Section. If the automatic shifts do not occur within limits or the transmission slips during shift points, the following procedure is suggested to separate engine, transmission, linkage, and diaphragm unit or valve body problems : 1. Attach a tachometer to the engine and a vacuum gauge to the transmission vacuum line at the vacuum unit (Fig. 6). 2. Attach a pressure gauge to the control pressure outlet at the transmission (Fig. 5). 3. Firmly apply the parking brake and start the engine.
7-40
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION If the vacuum reading is lower than 18 inches, an engine problem is indicated or there is leakage in the vacuum line. Make necessary repairs to obtain a minimum vacuum reading of 18 inches.
FIG. 5 - Control Pressure Connecting Points. 4. Adjust the engine idle speed to the specified rpm. If the engine idle speed· cannot be brought within limits by adjustment at the carburettor idle adjustment screw, check the throttle and downshift linkage for a binding condition. If the linkage is satisfactory, check for vacuum leaks in the transmission diaphragm unit (Fig. 7), and its connecting tubes and hoses. Check all other vacuum operated units for vacuum leaks.
FIG. 7 - Testing Transmission Vacuum Unit for Leakage Then connect the vacuum hose to the transmission vacuum unit. If the gauge still reads \8 inches, the vacuum unit diaphragm is not leaking. As the hose is removed from the transmission vacuum unit, hold a finger over the end of the control rod. When the hose is removed, the internal spring of the vacuum unit should push the control rod outward.
CONTROL PRESSURE TESTS The test results of the following checks should agree with the specifications given in Table I. When performing control pressure tests, make certain that the service brake pedal is held in the applied position.
= MANIFOLD VACUUM LINE HOSE
TO VACUUM GAUGE
TEST NUMBER ICONTROL PRESSURE CHECK AT ENGINE IDLE 1. With the transmission in neutral, and at the correct engine idle, the vacuum gauge should s}low a minimum of 18 inches at sea level.
At engine idle, check the transmission control pressure gauge at all selector lever positions. Transmission control pressures should agree with the specifications in Table I. At altitudes above sea level, it may not be possible to obtain 18 inches vacuum at engine idle. At these altitudes with idle vacuum of less than 18 inches, refer to the following specifications to determine idle speed control pressure in forward driving ranges: Engine Vacuum (At Idle) 17 Inches 16 Inches 15 Inches 14 Inches 13 Inches 12 Inches II Inches
Control Pressure (psi) 5:2-74 52-78 52-85 52-90 52-96 52-101 52-101
0
0
0
.
0
....
0.
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0.
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0.
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0.
0-0
0
••••
0.
0.
0
•••
0
0
0.
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0.
0.
0
0
2. At engine idle, depress and release the accelerator pedal quickly and observe the vacuum gauge. The amount of vacuum should decrease and increase with the changes in throttle openings. If the vacuum response to changes in throttle opening is too slow the vacuum line to the diaphragm unit could be restricted. Make the necessary repairs before completing the test.
TEST NUMBER 2-CONTROL PRESSURE INCREASE CHECK The control
pressure increase
TABLE 1-C4 Transmission CONTROL PRESSURE AT ZERO OUTPUT SHAn SPEED En1ine Speed or Manifold Vacuum
Throttle Position
FIG. 6- Typical Vacuum Test Line Connections
1
Idle-Above 18 Inches of Vacuum
Closed
P.N.D. 1.2 R
52-85 52-115 52-180
VACUUM UNIT CHECK
2
17.0 Approximate Inches of Vacuum
As Required
D2 1
Line Pressure Increase
3
10 Inches ol Vacuum
As Required
D2 1
96-110
4
Below 1 inch of Vacuum
Thru detent at stall
D2 1
143-160
R
230-260
To check the vacuum unit for dia-phragm leakage, remove the unit from the transmission. Use a distributor tester equipped with a vacuum pump (Fig. 7). Set the regulator knob so that the vacuum gauge reads 18 inches with the end of the vacuum hose blocked off.
1
Transmission oil at normal operating temperature.
ShiH Selector Lewer Position
•Control (Line) Pressure (psi)
Test No.
PART 7-2- C4 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION should be checked in all ranges except Park and Neutral. Shift the transmission into D, 2, and R, and check control pressure increase in each range. With the correct control ptessure at engine idle, advance the throttle until the engine vacuum reading is approximately 17.0 inches. As the vacuum gauge reading decreases into these specifications, the control pressure should start to increase. Control pressure increase may be noted immediately when the throttle is opened due to the increased pump output, resulting from increased engine rpm. When this happens, the pressure increase point can be checked by using a distributor vacuum tester. Install the distributor tester vacuum line on the diaphragm assembly. Adjust the tester to provide over 18 inches of vacuum. Increase the engine to 600700 rpm. Adjust the tester vacuum reading to approximately 17.0 inches and observe the transmission pressure gauge for the pressure increase. TEST NUMBER 3CONTROL PRESSURE CHECK AT 10 INCHES OF VACUUM A control pressure check should be made at 10 inches of vacuum in D, 2. Advance the throttle until the engine vacuum reading is 10 inches and check the control pressure regulation. Control pressure should be as shown in Table 1. TEST NUMBER ~ CONTROL PRESSURE CHECK AT 3 INCHES OF VACUUMCheck control pressure at one inches of vacuum in D, 2, and 1. The control pressure should be as shown in Table l. Then move the selector lever to R. With the vacuum at one inch the control pressure should be as shown in Table I. While making this pressure test, do not hold the throttle open for more than five seconds in each detent position. Between each testmove the selector lever to neutral and run the engine at I000 rpm for fifteen seconds to cool the converter. If the vacuum and pressure gauge readings are within specifications, the diaphragm unit and transmission control pressure regulating system are operating properly. If the transmission control pressure is too low, too high, fails to
rise with throttle opening, or is extremely erratic, use the procedure given under the following appropriate heading to resolve the problem. CONTROL PRESSURE TEST RESULTS TEST NUMBER I CONTROL PRESSURE IS LOW AT ENGINE IDLE If control pressure at engine idle is low in all selector lever positions, trouble other than the diaphragm unit is indicated. When control pressure at engine idle is low in all ranges, check for excessive leakage in the front oil pump, case, and control valve body, or a sticking control pressure regulator valve. TEST NUMBER I CONTROL PRESSURE IS HIGH AT ENGINE IDLE If transmission control pressure at engine idle is too high in all ranges, the trouble may be in the diaphragm unit or its connecting vacuum tubes and hoses, throttle valve, or control rod. With the engine idling, disconnect the hose from the diaphragm unit and check the engine manifold vacuum. Hold a thumb over the end of the hose and check for vacuum. If the engine speeds up when the hose is disconnected and slows down as the thumb is held against the end of the hose, the vacuum source is satisfactory. Stop the engine, and remove the diaphragm unit and the diaphragm unit control rod. Inspect the control rod for a bent condition and for corrosion. Check the diaphragm unit for leakage with the distributor tester. TEST NUMBER 2CONTROL PRESSURE DOES NOT INCREASE WITH VACUUM AT APPROXIMATELY 17.0 INCHES When the control pressure is within specifications at engine idle, but does not increase as the vacuum is decreased to the specified limits, first check the control rod between the vacuum unit and throttle valve for proper engagement. If the control rod is not assembled into the end of the throttle valve or vacuum unit, the valve cannot regulate throttle pressure to increase control pressure. Next check for a stuck
7-41
primary throttle valve, pressure booster valve, or a stuck control pressure regulator valve. If control pressure increases before or after vacuum is decreased to approximately 17.0 inches, check for a leaking diaphragm assembly, bent diaphragm can, or worn or bent control rod. TESTS NUMBER 3 AND ~ CONTROL PRESSURE NOT
WITHIN LIMITS AT 10 OR 1 INCHES OF VACUUM If idle pressure and pressure point increase are within specifications but pressures at 10 or 1 inch of vacuum on the transmission is not within specification in all ranges, excessive leakage, low pump capacity, or a restricted oil pan screen is indicated. If pressures are not within specifications for specific selector lever positions only, this indicates excessive leakage in the clutch or servo circuits used in those ranges.
FIG. 8- Adiustable Vacuum Unit When the control pressure is within specifications at engine idle, but not within specifications at the pressure rise point of approximately 17.0 inches of vacuum, at 10 inches of vacuum, or at 1 inch of vacuum, the vacuum diaphragm unit may need adjustment. The vacuum diaphragm assembly used on the C4 transmission has an adjusting screw in the vacuum hose connecting tube (Fig. 8). The inner end of the screw bears against a plate which in turn bears against the vacuum diaphragm spring. All readings slightly high or all readings slightly low may indicate the vacuum unit needs adjustment to correct a particular shift condition. For example, if the pressure at lO inches of vacuum was 120 psi and the pressure at 1 inch of vacuum was 170 psi and upshifts and downshifts were harsh, a diaphragm adjustment to reduce the diaphragm
7-42
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
assembly spring force would be required. If pressure readings are low, and line pressure does not start to build up until vacuum drops to 15 inches, an adjustment to increase diaphragm spring force is required. To increase control pressure, tum the adjusting screw in clockwise. To reduce control pressure, back the adjusting screw out by turning it counterclockwise. One complete turn of the adjusting screw (360.) will change idle line control pressure approximately 2- 3 psi. After adju stment is made, install the vacuum line and recheck the pressures, part icularly the pressure at 10 inches of vacuum. The diaphragm should not be adjusted to provide pressures below the ranges previously specified in order to change shift feel. To do so could result in soft or slipping shifts and damage to the transmission. STALL TEST • Start the engine to allow it to reach its normal temperature. Apply both the parking and service brakes while making tests. The stall test is made in D, 2 and I, or R, at full throttle to check engine performance, converter clutch operation or installation, and the holding ability of the forward clutch, reverse-high clutch and low-reverse band and the gear train one-way clutch. While making this test, do not hold the throttle open for more than five seconds at a time. Then move the selector lever to Neutral and run engine at l 000 rpm for about 15 seconds to cool the converter before making the next test. If the engine speed recorded by the tachometer exceeds the maximum limits specified in Table 2 release the accelerator immediately because clutch or band slippage is indicated.
TABLE 2- Stall Speed Limits Engine Model CID 302-2V
Engine Speed (rpm) 1780-2000
Transmission Type C4
351-2V
1520-1720
250-2V 250-1V
1650-1850 1600-1800
C4 C4 C4
STALL SPEED TOO HIGH If stall speed exceeds specifications, band or clutch slippage is indicated, depending on transmission selector lever position . Excessive engine rpm only in D, 2 and I,
indicates forward clutch slippage. Excessive engine rpm only in R indicates either reverse-high clutch or low-reverse band slippage. Excessive engine rpm only in D indicates gear train one-way clutch slippage. STALL SPEED TOO LOW When the stall test speeds are low and the engine is properly tuned, converter stator clutch problems are indicated. A road test must be performed to determine the exact cause of the trouble. If the stall test speeds are 300 to 400 rpm below the specifications shown in Table 2 and the car cruises properly but has very poor acceleration, the converter stator clutch is slipping. If the stall test speeds are 300 to 400 rpm below the specified values, and the car drags at cruising speeds and acceleration is poor, the stator clutch could be installed backwards. Remove the converter and check the stator clutch as described in Cleaning and Inspection. When the stall test shows normal speeds, the acceleration is good, but the car drags at cruising speeds, the difficulty is due to a seized stator assembly. If the stator is defective, replace the converter. INITIAL ENGAGEMENT CHECKS Initial engagement checks are made to determine if initial band and clutch engagements are smooth. Run the engine until its normal operating temperature is reached. With the engine at the correct idle speed, shift the selector lever from N to D, 2 and I, and R. Observe the initial band and clutch engagements. Band and clutch engagements should be smooth in all positions. Rough initial engagements in D, 2 and 1, or R are caused by high engine idle speed or high control pressures. SHIFf POINT CHECKS Check the light throttle upshifts in D. The transmission should start in first gear, shift to second, and then shift to third within the shift points specified in the specifications section. While the transmission is in third gear, depress the accelerator pedal through the detent (to the floor). The transmission should shift from third to second or third to first,
depending on the car speed. Check the closed throttle downshift from third to first by coasting down from about 30 mph in third gear. The shift should occur within the limits specified in the specifications section. When the selector lever is at 2, the transmission can operate only in second. With the transmission in third gear and road speed over 39 mph, the transmission should shift to second gear when the selector lever is moved from D to I. The transmission will downshift from second or third to first gear when this same manual shift is made below approximately 38 mph. This check will determine if the governor pressure and shift control valves are functioning properly. During the shift check operation, if the transmission does not shift within specifications or certain gear ranges cannot be obtained, refer to the Diagnosis Guide page 7- 44 to resolve the problem. AIR PRESSURE CHECKS A NO DRIVE condition can exist, even with correct transmission fluid pressure, because of inoperative clutches, bands. The inoperative units can be located through a series of checks by substituting air pressure for the fluid pressure to determine the location of the malfunction. When the selector lever is at 2, a NO DRIVE condition may be caused by an inoperative forward clutch or intermediate band. A NO DRIVE condition at D may be caused by an inoperative forward clutch or one-way clutch. When there is no drive in I the difficulty could be caused by improper functioning of the forward clutch or low-rev~rse band and the one-way clutch . The low-reverse band cannot be checked in I. If the low-reverse band or clutch fails , the one-way clutch will hold the gear train and operation will be normal except that there will be no engine braking. Failure to drive in reverse range could be caused by a malfunction of the reverse-high clutch or lowreverse band. Erratic shifts could be caused by a stuck governor valve. To make the air pressure checks, drain the transmission fluid, and then remove the oil pan and the
PART 7-2-· C4 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION control valve body assembly. The inoperative units can be located by introducing air pressure into the transmission case passages leading to the clutches, servos, and governor.
7-43 CONV ER TER IN
FORWARD CLUTCH Apply air pressure to the transmission case forward clutch passage (Fig. 9). A dull thud can be heard when the clutch piston is applied. If no noise is heard, place the finger tips on the input shell and again apply air pressure to the forward clutch passage. Movement of the piston can be felt as the clutch is applied. GOVERNOR Apply air pressure to the control pressure to governor passage and listen for a sharp clicking or whistling noise. The noise indicates secondary governor valve movement. REVERSE-HIGH CLUTCH Apply air pressure to the reversehigh clutch passage (Fig. 9). A dull thud indicates that the reverse-high clutch piston has moved to the applied position. If no noise is heard, place the finger tips on the clutch drum and again apply air pressure to detect movement of the piston. INTERMEDIATE SERVO Hold the air nozzle in the intermediate servo apply passage (Fig. 9). Operation of the servo is indicated by a tightening of the intermediate band around the drum. Continue to apply air pressure into the intermediate servo apply passage, and introduce air pressure into the intermediate servo release passage. The intermediate servo should release the band against the apply pressure.
CONTROL PRE SSURE TO PRIMAR Y THR OTTLE VALVE PRIMARY THROTTLE PRE SSURE TO VALVE BODY
PRIMAR Y THROTTLE VALVE EXHAUST
0217 1-A
FIG. 9- Oil Pressure Passage Holes LOW-REVERSE SERVO Apply air pressure to the lowreverse apply passage (Fig. 9). The low-reverse band should tighten around the drum if the servo is operating properly. If the servos do not operate, disassemble, clean and inspect them to locate the source of the trouble. If air pressure applied to any clutch passage fails to operate the clutch or operates more than one clutch at once, remove and, with air pressure, check the fluid passages in the case and front pump to detect obstructions. If the passages are clear, remove the clutch assemblies, and clean and inspect the malfunctioning clutch to locate the trouble.
DIAGNOSIS GUIDE The Transmission Diagnosis Guide page 7-44 lists the most common trouble symptoms that may be found in the transmission, and gives the items that should be checked to find the cause of the trouble. The items to check for each trouble symptom are arranged in a logical sequence which should be followed for quickest results. The letter symbols for each item are explained in the Key to the Diagnosis Guide. If items A, B. C, D, E, and the stall test have already been checked during the preliminary checks and adjustments, they need not be repeated when following the Diagnosis Guide.
COMMON ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS TRANSMISSION FLUID DRAIN, AND REFILL . Normal maintenance and lubrication requirements do not necessitate periodic automatic transmission fluid changes. If a major failure, such as a clutch, band, bearing, etc., has occurred within the transmission, it will have to be removed for ser-
vice. At this time the converter must be thoroughly flushed to remove all dirt. When filling a dry transmission and converter, install 5 quarts of fluid. Start the engine, shift the selector lever as in Step 5 below, and check and add fluid as necessary. Following is the procedure for
partial drain and refill due to minor repairs. 1. Place a drain pan under the transmission. Loosen and remove all but two of the oil pan bolts, from the front of the case and drop the rear edge of the oil pan to drain the fluid. Remove and thoroughly clean the oil pan and screen. Discard the oil pan gasket.
7-44
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
C4 AUTOMATIC DIAGNOSIS GUIDI Items to Check Transmission Transmission in Vehicle Out of Vehicle KBWFE OJ ALBCDWE BFE B G WE F r BCD E J CRDE b r BE LWE G FE J B c KBE G J HI K ABWFE a c i ABGWFEJ a c AHWFEI b c CE i
Trouble Symptom Rough Initial Engagement in D or 2 Rough Initial Engagement 2 OnJy 1-2 or 2-3 Shift Points Incorrect Rough 2-3 Shift Engine Overspeeds on 2-3 Shift No Shift Points No 2-3 Shift No 3-1 Shift in D No Forced Downshifts Runaway Engine on Forced Downshift Rough 3-2 or 3-1 Shift at Closed Throttle Shifts 1-3 in D No Engine Braking In First Gear-Manuall Creeps Excessively in D or 2 Slips or Chatters in First Gear, D Slips or Chatters in Secon" Gear D or 2 Slips or Chatters in R No Drive in D onJy No Drive in 2 only No Drive in R onJy No Drive in D, 2, or I No Drive in Any Selector Lever Position Lockup in 2 onl}' Lockup in R only Parking Lock Binds or Does Not Hold Transmission Overheats Maximum Speed Too Low, Poor Acceleration Transmission Noisy in N Transmission Noisy in First, Second, and Reverse Gear Transmission Noisy in P Fluid Leak Kn TO DIAGNOSIS GUIDI TRANSMISSION IN VEHICLE Fluid Level A Vacuum Diaphragm Unit or Tubes B Manual Linkage c D Governor Valve Body E Control Pressure Regulator Valve F Intermediate Band G Low-Reverse Band H I Low-Reverse Servo J Intermediate Servo Engine Idle Speed K L Downshift Linkage Convertor Drain Plugs M Oil Pan Gasket, or Filler Tube N Oil Cooler and Connections 0 p Manual or Downshift Lever Shaft Seal Q lh -inch Pipe Plug in Side of Case R Perform Air-Pressure Check s Extension Housing to Case Gaskets and Lock washers u Extension Housing Rear Oil Seal w Perform Control Pressure Check X Speedometer Driven Gear Adapter Seal
c
CHI E R DWR ACWFER H I
c AOF F F F MNOPQSUX
b c a c h i a I g n n d h d d jmp
TRANSMISSION OUT OF VEHICLE a
Forward Clutch
b
Reverse-High Clutch
c
Leakage in Hydraulic System
d
Front Pump
I
Parking Linkage
h
Planetary Assembly
i
Planetary One-Way Clutch
j
Engine Rear Oil Seal
m
Front Pump Oil Seal
n
Converter One-Way Clutch
p
Front Pump to Case Gasket or Seal
r
Reverse-High Clutch Piston Air Bleed Valve
7-45
PART 7-2·· C4 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION 2. Place a new gasket on the oil pan, and install the screen and pan on the transmission. 3. Add three quarts of fluid to the transmission through the filler tube. 4. Run the engine at idle speed for about two minutes. Check the fluid level, and add fluid if necessary. Run the engine at fast idle speed (about 1200 rpm) until it reaches its normal operating temperature. Do not race the engine. 5. Shift the selector lever through all the positions, place it at P, and check the fluid level. If necessary, add enough fluid to the transmission to raise the level to the F (Full) mark on the dipstick. Do not overfill the transmission. OIL COOLER FLUSHING PROCEDURE When a clutch or band failure or other internal trouble has occurred in the transmission, any metal particles or clutch plate or band material that may have been carried into the cooler should be removed from the system by flushing the cooler and lines before the transmission is put back into service. In no case should an automatic transmission having a clutch or band failure or other internal trouble resulting in fluid contamination, be put back into service without first flushing the transmission oil cooler. l. After installing a new or rebuilt automatic transmission and converter assembly in the car, Do Not Connect the Cooler Return Line
to the Transmission. Place the transmission selector lever in the P (park) position and connect the cooler inlet (converter out) line to the transmission. Place a pan under the end of the cooler return line that will hold transmission fluid. Do Not Start the Engine. 2. Install 5 quarts of automatic transmission fluid meeting Ford Specification. 3. Start the engine and allow it to run at normal idle speed for 3 minutes with the selector lever in P (park) position. Stop the engine and add additional transmission fluid required to complete total fill. Start the engine and allow it to run at normal idle speed. 4. Allow approximately two quarts of transmission fluid to drain into the pan placed under the end of the cooler return line. 5. If the fluid does not run clean after draining two quarts of it through the cooler, shut off the engine and add two additional quarts of transmission fluid. 6. Repeat steps 3 through 5 until the transmission fluid flowing out of the cooler return line is clean. 7. If there is no fluid flow or the fluid does not flow freely, shut off the engine and disconnect both cooler lines from the transmission and cooler. 8. Use an air hose with not more than 100 psi air pressure to reverse flush the cooler lines and the cooler. After reverse flushing, connect both lines at the cooler and the cooler inlet line (converter out) to the
transmission. 9. Start the engine and check the fluid flow. If the transmission fluid flows freely, proceed with steps 3 through 6. If there is no fluid flow, check for pinched cooler lines. If the flow is restricted, replace cooler lines and/or the radiator. 10. Shut off the engine, and connect the cooler return line to the transmission. Check the transmission fluid level as indicated under heading Transmission Fluid Level Check. Add or remove transmission fluid as required until the proper fluid level is obtained on the dipstick. DO NOT OVERFILL THE TRANSMISSION. 11. Do not attempt to correct cooler or cooler line leaks by closing off the lines. OIL COOLER TUBE REPLACEMENT When fluid leakage is found at the oil cooler, the entire radiator must be replaced. The oil cooler cannot be removed from the radiator for replacement. When one or more of the fluid cooler steel tubes must be replaced, each replacement tube must be fabricated from the same size steel tubing as the original line. Using the old tube as a guide, bend the new tube as required. Add the necessary fittings, and install the tube. After the fittings have been tightened, add fluid as needed, and check for fluid leaks.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION CLEANING
TRANSMISSION Clean all parts with suitable solvent and use moisture-free air to dry off all parts and clean out the various fluid passages. The composition clutch plates and bands should not be cleaned in a vapor degreaser or with any type of detergent solution. To clean these parts, wipe them off with a lint-free cloth. New clutch plates and bands should be soaked · in transmission fluid for fifteen minutes before they are assembled. CONVERTER If there is reason to believe that the converter has an excessive
amount of foreign material in it, it is to be replaced.
I
I STATOR SUPPORT
FIG. 10 - Checking Stator to Impeller Interference
FIG. 11 - Checking Stator to Turbine Interference
7-46
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
STATOR TO IMPELLER INTERFERENCE CHECK 1. Position a stator support shaft on the bench with the spline end of the stator shaft pointing up (Fig. 10). 2. Place the front pump rotor over the stator shaft with. the flat side of the rotor down. 3. Place the converter over the stator &upport shaft so that the front pump flats are in normal (running) engagement with the pump rotor. The converter pump driving hub will bottom the rotor. 4. While holding the stator shaft stationary, try to rotate the converter counterclockwise. The converter should rotate freely without any signs of interference or scraping within the converter assembly. S. If there is an indication of scraping, the trailing edges of the stator blades may be interfering with the leading edges of the impeller blades. In such cases, replace the converter. STATOR TO TURBINE INTERFERENCE CHECK 1. Position the converter, front side down, on the bench. 2. Install the front pump assembly (complete) to engage the mating splines of the stator support and stator, and pump drive gear flats. 3. Install the input shaft, engaging the splines with the turbine hub (Fig. 11). 4. While holding the pump stationary, attempt to rotate the turbine with the input shaft. The turbine should rotate freely in both directions without any signs of interference or scraping noise. 5. If interference exists, the stator front thrust washer may be worn, allowing the stator to hit the turbine. In such cases, the converter must be replaced. FRONT PUMP AND STATOR SUPPORT 1. Inspect the clutch drum journal for wear and roughness. 2. Check the side clearances between the clutch apply pressure seal rings and their grooves in the stator support. These clearances should be between 0.0035 and 0.0045 inch.
3. Remove the clutch apply rings and install them in their normal running position in the clutch drum. Then check the ring gaps. This ring gap clearance should be between 0.002 and 0.009 inch. 4. Inspect the input shaft bushings in the stator support shaft for wear. Check the oil ring grooves in the stator support for nicks, burrs or damaged edges. Check the gasket mating surface of the pump body for damaged surface. S. Inspect the converter pump drive hub bushing in the front pump housing. Inspect the pump seal in the pump housing for defects that would cause fluid leakage.
CONTROL VALVE BODY 1. Inspect all valve and plug bores for scores. Check all fluid passages for obstruction. Inspect the check valves for free movement. Inspect all mating surfaces for burrs or distortion. Inspect all plugs and valves for burrs and scores. Crocus cloth can be used to polish valves and plugs if care is taken to avoid rounding the sharp edges of the valves and plugs. 2. Inspect all springs for distortion. Check all valves and plugs for free movement in their respective bores. Valves and plugs, when dry, must fall from their own weight in their respective bores.
GOVERNOR 1. Inspect the governor valves and housing for wear. Crocus cloth may be used to polish the valves if care is taken to avoid rounding the sharp edges. 2. Install the governor valves in the governor housing and check them for free movement. Each valve should fall of its own weight when dry.
PINION CARRIERS 1. The pins and shafts in the planet assemblies should be checked for loose fit and/or complete disengagement. Replacement, using a new planet assembly, should be made if either condition is found to exist. 2. Inspect the pinion gears for damaged or excessively worn areas. 3. Check for free rotation of the pinion gears. 4. Inspect the front planet thrust surface for excessive wear.
CLUTCH ASSEMBLY 1. Inspect the composition clutch plates for · damage. These plates should be flat. If the plates are not flat, they must be replaced. If the old plates are to be re-used, they must not be cleaned in a vapor degreaser or cleaned with any type of detergent solution. Wipe them clean with lint-free towels. If new composition plates are to be installed, soak them in automatic transmission fluid for at least 15 minutes before assembling them in the clutch drum. This soaking prevents damage to the plates during the transmission fluid fill period and initial running-in. 2. Inspect the steel clutch plates. These clutch plates should also be flat. If they are not flat, they should be replaced. 3. Inspect the clutch release springs for being broken or distorted. 4. Inspect the clutch piston ball check valve for free movement and proper seating. Make sure the orifice in the clutch piston is open. S. Inspect the clutch drum bushing for wear.
SERVO-ASSEMBLIES 1. Inspect the servo piston and seals for defects that would cause hydraulic leakage. 2. Inspect the cover seal and gasket cover sealing surface for defects. CASE 1. Inspect the case for cracks. 2. With an air hose, check all fluid passages for obstruction or cross leakage. 3. Check all case linkage parts for free travel and proper engagement. 4. Check the vent passage for obstructions with an air hose. ONE-WAY CLUTCH 1. Inspect the outer and inner races for scores or damaged surface area where the rollers contact the races. 2. Inspect the rollers and springs for excessive wear or damage. 3. Inspect the spring and roller cage for bent or damaged spring retainers.
PART 7-2- C4 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATI ON When the turbine rotates faster than -fo- impeller speed the converter no longer multiplies torque. _The fluid is directed against the back face of the stator blades. As the one-way clutch permits the stator to rotate only in the direction of impeller rotation, the stator begins to turn with the impeller and turbine. The converter operates as an efficient fluid coupling as long as the turbine speed remains greater than -fo- impeller speed. A comtant flow of fluid into and out of the converter is maintained. The fluid coming out of the converter is forced through a cooler located in the radiator tank .
The converter torque multiplication gradually tapers off as turbine speed approaches impeller speed, and it becomes I to I when the turbine is being driven at -fo- impeller speed. This is known as the coupling point. When the turbine is rotating at less than /o impeller speed, the converter is multiplying torque. The fluid leaving the turbine blades strikes the front face of the stator blades. These blades are held stationary by the action of a oneway clutch (Fig. 14) as long as the fluid is directed against the front face of the blades.
DESCRIPTION Figure I shows the location of the converter, front pump, clutches, gear train and most of the ·internal parts used in the C4 transmission. The identification tag (Fig. 13) attached by the lower front intermediate servo cover bolt. The tag shows the model prefix and suffix, engine displacement, and the built date code. OPERATION TORQUE CONVERTER The hydraulic torque converter (Fig. 14) consists of an impeller (pump), a turbine, and a stator. All these parts are enclosed and operate in a fluid-filled housing. When the engine is running, the fluid in the torque converter flows from the impeller to the turbine and back to the impeller through the stator. This flow produces a maximum torque increase of about 2 tb I when the turbine is stalled. When enough torque is developed by the impeller, the turbine begins to rotate, turning the turbine shaft (input shaft).
ASSEMBLY PART NO.
SHIFT
BUILD DATE
FIG. 13 - Identification Tag CASE
INTERMEDIATE BAND
REVERSE RING GEAR
EXTENSION HOUSING SEAL
GOVERNOR DISTRIBUTOf<
OJTPUT
SHAF~-~
l,
.--~-
REVERSE PLANET CARRIE:-l
LOW· REVERSE SERVO PISTON FORWARD CL~TCH CONTROL LEVERS
FIG. 12- C4 Automatic Transmission
7-48
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
FIG. 14 - Sectional View of Torque Converter- Typical OPERATION
TRANSMISSION The new transmission features a drive range that provides for fully automatic upshifts and downshifts, and manually selected low and second gears. The six selector-lever positions provided are P (Park), R (Reverse), N (Neutral), D (automatic Drive Range), 2 (second-gear hold) and I (low-gear hold). Drive (D) is a fully automatic range providing for a first gear start, with automatic upshifts to second and high gear occurring at appropriate intervals. Second gear (2) is a manually selected second gear hold. When the selector lever is moved to (2) the transmission will engage and remain in second gear, regardless of throttle opening or road speed. D (DRIVE) The normal automatic driving range is indicated by D. In this range the car starts off in first gear and gives the best combination of automatic gear shifts, to provide for economy and fuJi power starts. As the accelerator is depressed and the car picks up speed, automatic shifts to second and high gears will occur. The transmission will automatically downshift as speed decreases. Forced downshifts in D are made by pushing the accelerator to the floor (kickdown) and the transmission will shift to 2nd or Ist depending on road speed.
2 (SECOND GEAR HOLD): When the engine is started and the shift lever is moved to 2 the cat will start off and remain in second gear, regardless of throttle opening or road speed. This range is especially useful for starting t.he car on icy pavements or other shppery surfaces. Similarly, when engine braking is required and the selector lever is moved from D to 2, the transmission will engage and remain in second gear. Selector lever position 2 is not a cruising range in the usual sense of the term. While the transmission is capable of limited cruising in second gear, maximum fuel economy and best all-around cruising performance are realized in D range. 1 (LOW GEAR HOLD): When the engine is started and the shift lever is moved to 'I' the car will start off and remain in first gear regardless of throttle opening or road speed. When I is selected from D or 2 the transmission will engage and retain first gear when road speed is below approx. 39 mph. When I is selected from D with a road speed above 39 mph second gear will be engaged and retained until road speed drops below 39 mph when first gear will be engaged and retained. R-Reverse Reverse gear is selected.
P-Park In this position the output shaft is locked to the transmission case preventing the drive shaft from rotating. The gear set is in neutral. N-Neutral Places the gear set in neutral but does not lock the transmission. TOWING Important. Should it be necessary to tow a vehicle fitted with a C4 transmission, the drive shaft must be disconnected or the rear end of the car suspended, otherwise subsequent failure of the transmission will occur. PLANETARY GEAR TRAIN, CLUTCHES, BANDS, AND SERVOS Planetary Gear Train. The gear train consists of an input shaft that is splined to the turbine of the converter and the forward clutch cylinder(Fig. l5). The forward clutch cylinder rotates the steel internal
clutch plates of the forward clutch and the composition clutch plates of the reverse-high clutch. When the reverse-high clutch is applied, the external area of the clutch hub is splined to and drives the input shell to rotate the sun gear. When the forward clutch is applied, the composition clutch plates drive the forward clutch hub and ring gear. The ring gear rotates the forward planet gears. When applied, the intermediate band holds the reverse-high clutch drum, input shell and sun gear from rotating. The sun gear, which is driven by the input shell, is meshed with the forward and reverse planet gears. The reverse planet carrier and low reverse drum are locked together with external splines. The lowreverse drum can be held from rotating by the low-reverse band. In Dl the low-reverse drum is also held from rotating by a roller type one-way clutch. The forward planet carrier, reverse ring gear hub, park gear and governor oil collector are all splined to the output shaft. Forward Clutch. The input shaft is splined to and drives the forward clutch cylinder (Fig. 15). Rotation of the cylinder drives the steel clutch plates in the forward clutch and the composition clutch plates of the reverse-high clutch. When the forward clutch piston is applied by hydraulic pressure, the movement of the piston against the disc spring locks the steel and composition clutch plates together to drive the forward clutch hub and ring gear. When hydraulic pressure is released from the piston, the disc spring moves the piston to the released position. As the disc spring moves, the steel and composition clutch plates are released. This stops the rotation of the forward clutch hub and ring gear. The forward clutch is applied in all forward drive gear ratios. Reverse-High Clutch. When hydraulic pressure is directed to the clutch piston, the piston moves against the release spring (Fig. 15). The piston movement locks the steel and rotating composition clutch plates together. The steel clutch plates drive the reverse-high clutch drum which is splined to the input shell. Rotation of the input shell drives the sun gear which is splined to the input shell.
PART 7-2- C4 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION To release the reverse-high clutch, hydraulic pressure is exhausted from the apply side of the piston. The return spring moves the piston to the released position. The steel and composition clutch plates are now released to stop rotation of the reverse-high clutch drum, input shell and sun gear. Intermediate Servo and Band. The intermediate servo is machined into the transmission case and the band has an external adjustment screw (Fig. I 6). To apply the servo, hydraulic pressure is directed from the control valve body, through a hole in the case to the hole in the servo piston stem. The pressure passes through the centre of the piston stem and then to the apply side of the piston. The piston moves against the return spring to tighten the intermediate band a-r ound the reverse-high clutch drum. To release the servo piston, hydraulic pressure is directed to the release side of the piston. The release pressure is assisted by the compressed return spring to move the servo piston and intermediate band to the OFF position. The intermediate servo and band are applied only during the intermediate gear operation . Low-Reverse Servo and Band. The low-reverse servo is machined \
into the transmission case and the band has an external adjustment screw (Fig. I 7). To apply the servo, hydraulic pressure is directed from the control valve body through a hole in the case to a hole in the piston stem. The pressure then passes through the centre of the piston stem to the apply area of the servo piston. The apply pressure force moves the piston against the piston return spring to tighten the low-reverse band around the lowreverse drum. To release the servo piston and band, the hydraulic pressure is exhausted from the apply side of the piston. The compressed return spring expands to release the piston and the low-reverse band. POWER FLOW All Gear Rotations are viewed from the front of transmission. Table 3 page 7-52 shows the gear ratios obtained in the different selector lever positions. Power Flow Neutral. In neutral (Fig. 18) the clutches or bands are not applied, therefore, no power is transmitted to the output shaft. Power Flow First Gear. In low gear (Fig. 18), the forward clutch is applied, and the planet one-way clutch or low-reverse band is holding the low-reverse drum and reverse planet carrier from rotating.
FORWARD CLUTCH CYLINDER
7-49
The power flow is through the input shaft and into the forward clutch. The input shaft is splined· to and drives the forward clutch cylinder. Rotation of the forward clutch drives the forward clutch hub and ring gear. The ring gear rotates the forward planet gears clockwise to cause the sun gear to rotate counterclockwise. Counter-clockwise rotation ofthe sun gear turns the reverse planet gear clockwise. The reverse planet carrier being splined to the lowreverse drum is held from rotating by the one-way clutch or lowreverse band. With the reverse planet carrier held stationary, the clockwise rotation of the reverse planet gears rotates the reverse ring gear and hub clockwise. The hub of the reverse ring gear is splined to the output shaft and rotates the output shaft clockwise. The output shaft rotation is at a reduced speed, compared to the input shaft rotation, but at an increased torque. The output shaft rotation at a reduced speed is caused by the fact that the forward planet carrier rotates at the same speed of the output shaft and in the same direction since the carrier is splined to the output shaft. The forward ring gear and planet assembly are rotating in the same direction, but the planet
\
INTERMEDIATE BAND
D1479·A
FIG. 15- Gear Train, Clutches and Bands (Typical)
7-50
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
RELEASE SIDE OF PISTON PRESSURE ~.PPL Y
PRESSURE
FIG. 16 - Intermediate Servo and Band
SCREW
D1485-A
FIG. 17 - Low-Reverse Servo and Band carrier is rotating at a slower speed than the ring gear. Therefore, the low gear ratio (torque multiplication) is a combination of the ratios provided by the forward and reverse planet assemblies. Power Flow Intermediate Gear. In intermediate gear (Fig. 18), the forward clutch is applied and the intermediate band is holding the reverse high clutch drum, input shell and sun gear from turning. The power flow is through the input shaft into the forward clutch and forward front planet assembly ring gear. The sun gear is held from rotating by the intermediate band. This causes the forward planet pinions to rotate (walk) around the sun gear, carrying the forward planet carrier with them. The forward planet carrier, being splined to the output shaft, causes clockwise rotation of the output shaft at a reduction in speed compared to the speed of the input shaft, and at an increase in torque.
Clockwise rotation of the output shaft causes clockwise rotation of the output shaft ring gear, causing the reverse planet pinions to also rotate (walk) around the sun gear in a clockwise direction. The reverse planet carrier will also rotate clockwise and the one-wav clutch inner race being splined to the reverse planet carrier, will overrun. Power Flow High Gear. In high gear (Fig. 18), the forward and reverse-high clutches are applied. The power flow is through the input shaft into the for~ard clutch cylinder. (The forward clutch cylinder rotates the steel clutch plates of the forward clutch and the composition c1utch plates of the reverse-high clutch.) The forward clutch directs the power flow through the forward clutch hub and ring gear to the forward planet carrier. The reverse-high clutch directs the power flow through the input shell to the sun gear. With the sun gear and the forward clutch hub
ring gear driven at the same speed the forward planet assembly (that is splined to the output shaft) is forced to rotate the output shaft at the same speed and direction to provide high gear. Power Flow Reverse. In reverse (Fig. 18), the reverse-high clutch and low-reverse band are applied. The power flow is through the input shaft, reverse-high clutch, input shell and to the sun gear. Clockwise rotation of the sun gear causes counter-clockwise rotation of the reverse planet gears. The low-reverse band, holding the low-reverse drum and reverse planet carrier from turning, causes the reverse planet gears to rotate counter-clockwise. This rotates the reverse ring gear and hub countc:r-clockwise. The hub splined to the output shaft rotates the output shaft counter-clockwise at a reduction in speed and at an increase in torque for reverse gear. HYDRAULIC CONTROL SYSTEM FRONT PUMP A gear type ;:mmp mounted on the front of the transmission case supplies the fluid for the operation of the hydraulic control system. Pump intake is through a screen which is part of the main control assembly and into the case casting and pump. Discharge is through the case into the main control assembly. Fluid from the front pump is directed to the following valves in the main control assembly: Main Oil Pressure Regulator Valve Manual Valve Throttle Booster Valve 2-3 Shift Valve Fluid is also directed to the primary throttle valve, which is located in the rear of the case. Fluid pressure delivered to these valves is at a pressure controlled by the main oil pressure regulator valve. MAIN OIL PRESSURE REGULATOR VALVE The main regulator valve assembly consists of the main oil pressure regulator valve and spring, main oil pressure booster valve, spring and sleeve, located in one bore in the mi!-in control assembly (Fig. 20). Fluid is delivered to the end and one valley of the main regulator valve from the front pump. Fluid pressure on the end land tends to move the valve against spring force.
7-51
PART 7-2- C4 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
INPUT SHAFT
LOW-REVERSE REVERSE-HIGH
FORWARD
l
OUTPUT SHAFT
INPUT SHAFT 2 RANGE OR D RANGE 2
NEUTRAL
FORWARD CLUTCH
l
INPUT SHAFT
ONE-WAY CLUTCH HOLDING REVERSE PLANET CARRIER AGAINST ROTATION D RANGE
OUTPUT SHAFT
INPUT SHAFT D RANGE HIGH
LOW
REVERSE-HIGH CLUTCH
FORWARD CLUTCH
LOW-REVERSE BAND
l
OUTPUT SHAFT
INPUT SHAFT 1 RANGE
INPUT SHAFT REVERSE
D1476-A
FIG. 18 - Power Flow
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7-52
Spring force is such that at approximately 60 psi front pump pressure, the main valve will move so that the third land uncovers the converter feed port, allowing additional pump volume to be used to charge the converter. If volume supplied by the front pump is greater than that required to maintain 60 psi line pressure, and converter and lube requirements, the valve will move further allowing the second land to uncover the port which allows excess pump volume to be returned to the pump. Pressures over 60 psi which are required under various operating conditions are obtained by delivering fluid under pressure to the pressure booster valve, which it will cause the pressure booster valve to assist the main regulator valve spring in increasing regulated line pressure. Source of these pressures which cause variations in control pressure are discussed later. MANUAL VALVE One passage delivers line pressure to the manual valve. The valve is positioned by the manual linkage, according to the mode of operation desired, to direct fluid out of one or more of the line passages which lead from the manual valve. The four (4) passages leading from the manual valve (from left to right) are shown in Fig. 20. I. 2 2. D 3. 1-R 4. R The 2 passage is charged in the 2 range only. The D passage is charged in all forward ranges. The 1-R passage is charged in I and reverse ranges. The R passage is charged in TABLE 3
reverse range only. In Neutral and Park the manual valve blocks the line pressure pass~ age and exhausts the four passages leading from the manual valve.
20 inches (nominal) of mercury vacuum. Primary throttle pressure is delivered to the: I. Cutback valve. 2.lntermediate band accumulator valve (through cutback valve). 3. Second land of coasting boost valve (through cutback valve). 4. Upper valley of pressure booster valve through top of line coasting boost valve. 5. End of and through the throttle booster valve. 6. End of pressure booster valve (through ball shuttle valve). Figure 19 shows how primary throttle pressure varies with engine vacuum.
The D passage supplies fluid to the D2 valve, the forward clutch and the governor. The 2 passage supplies fluid to the adjoining ends of the l-2 shift valve and D2 valve, and through one ball shuttle valve to the line coasting boost valve, 2-3 shift valve and downshift valve, through the downshift valve to and through the throttle modulator valve bore to the l-2 shift valve. The 1-R passage supplies fluid through a ball shuttle valve to the line coasting boost valve, 2-3 shift valve, downshift valve, and through the downshift valve to and through the throttle modulator valve bore to the l-2 shift valve. In addition, fluid is supplied to and through the 02 valve when it is in the closed (up) position, to and through the low servo modulator valve to the low-reverse servo and the l-2 transition valve. The same fluid is directed to the spring end of the D2 valve.
MANIFOLD VACUUM
OlSSB · A
FIG. 19 - Primary ThroHie Pressure, Boost Throttle Pressure and Line Pressure Versus
The R passage directs tluid to the middle valley of the pressure booster valve, to and through the 2-3 shift valve to the reverse-direct clutch, applying it , and to the release side of the intermediate servo (through intermediate servo check valve). Fluid is also directed to the upper end of the 2-3 backout valve and the spring end of the low servo modulator valve.
Manifold Vacuum 250 1V and 351 2V only PRESSURE BOOSTER VALVE
(D, 2, l Range) T.V. pressure is delivered to the upper valley of the pressure booster valve and to the end of the pressure booster valve through a ball shuttle valve. Depending on mode of operation, coasting boost pressure instead of T.V. pressure may be directed from the line coasting boost valve through a ball shuttle valve to the
PRIMARY THROTTLE VALVE The primary throttle valve responds to manifold vacuum changes. Primary throttle pressure starts at
-Gtar Ratios
Transmission Selector Position
Gear
Gear Ratios
Forward Clutch
Reverse High Clutch
Intermediate Band
Low Reverse Band
One-Way Clutch
Nor P
Neutral
--
Off
Off
Off
Off
Off
I
Low
2.46:1
On
Off
Off
On
Holding
D
Low
2.46:1
On
Off
Off
Off
Holding
D or 2
Intermediate
1.46:1
On
Off
On
Off
Over-Running
D
. High
1.00:1
On
On
Off
Off
Over-Running
R
Reverse
2.20:1
Off
On
Off
On
Not Affected
PART 7-2- C4 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7-53
PRIMARY GOVERNOR X
DRAIN-BACK
REAR LUBE
CONVERTER PRESSURE REUEF VALVE
INTERMEDIATE BAND
X EXHAUST
FIG. 20- Hydraulic Control System- C4 Automatic- 250-VI and 351-2V - 250-2V and 302-2V are the same but incorporate a ball in the throttle boost
valve spring.
7-54
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
end of the pressure booster valve. When force created on the booster valve by T.V. pressure or T.V. and coasting boost pressure exceeds pressure booster valve spring force, the force will be added to the main regulator valve spring force transmitted to the regulator valve. This will provide increased line pressures required to compensate for increased throttle openings and ~r\gine torque output. Figure 19 shows how line pressure varies with engine vacuum at 0 output shaft rpm. (R Range) In reverse, additional fluid pressure is required to prevent clutch and/or band slippage under stall or partial stall conditions. This additional pressure is provided by directing R oil pressure to the middle valley of the pressure booster valve. The differential in area between the lands creates a force which is added to the forces present due to T.V. pressure and the line coasting boost valve pressure. The resultant force is added to the force of the main regulator valve spring, to boost line pressure to a higher value than is available in the forward driving ranges. GOVERNOR At Rest-O mph
Control pressure (line) is fed to the secondary governor valve through the center passage in the valve body when a forward range has been selected. Because of the differential in area of the inner and outer lands of the valve. the valve will be forced inward, shutting off line pressure feed to the. governor passage and allowing this passage to be opened to exhaust, at the inner end of the valve. At the same time, line pressur.e will pass by two flats on the outer end of the valve, pressurizing the line leakage passage leading to the primary governor valve. At rest, the spring on the outer end of the primary governor valve holds the primary governor valve inward, blocking further flow of the fluid in the line leakage passage. This causes pressure in the line leakage passage to build to the same value as line pressure. As a consequence, the secondary governor valve is held in and there is no pressure in the governor circuit. Above 10 mph
When vehicle speed reaches approximately 10 mph, centrifugal
force on the primary governor valve overcomes spring force, and the valve moves outward, opening the line leakage passage to exhaust. This action reduces the pressure on the end of the secondary governor valve to zero (0), allowing the secondary valve to also move outward, due to spring force and centrifugal force. When the secondary valve moves outward, it closes the governor exhaust passage, and allows line pressure to enter the governor passage. As pressure builds in the governor passage it will create a force on the secondary governor valve due to the differential in areas of the inner and outer lands of the valve. This force tends to move the valve inward. When the force on the valve created by pressure in the governor passage exceeds the centrifugal force plus spring force, the valve will move inward, allowing governor pressure to exhaust, and close the passage between line pressure and governor pressure. When governor pressure is reduced, the secondary valve will again move outward, closing the governc:: exhaust port and opening the line pressure to governor passage. Above 10 mph, governor pressure is regulated in this manner, and will vary with vehicle speeds. If vehicle speed drops below I 0 mph, the primary valve spring will move the primary governor valve in, closing the line leakage exhaust port at the primary valve. Pressure in the line leakage passage will become equal to line pressure, forcing the secondary governor valve in. This action shuts off line pressure feed to the governor passage and exhausts the governor circuit. When the secondary governor valve is regulating, governor pressure will be delivered to the cutback valve, end of the 2-3 shift valve and the I -2 shift valve. Figure 21 shows the relationship between governor pressure and output shaft rpm.
:;
..:
100
60 20 0 0
10
15
20
25
OUTPUT SHAFT RPM•100
30 Dl559·A
FIG. 21 - Govemor Pressure Versus Output Shaft RPM
THROTTLE BOOSTER VALVE Note: While the throttle booster valve is fitted to all C4 transmissions it is rendered ineffective on transmissions fitted to 250 C.I.D. 2V and 302 C.I .D. 2V engines by a ball inserted in the booster valve spring preventing valve movement. Throttle plate openings above 50° provide very little change in engine vacuum as compared to throttle plate opening below 50°. The throttle booster valve is provided to boost throttle pressure and provide the necessary shi~t delay for engine throttle plate opemngs above 50°. Below approximately 60 psi primary T.V. pressure, T.V. pressure flows to and through the throttle boost valve unaffected, working on the end of the boost valve and on the area differential on the spring side of the boost valve. As a consequence, T.V. pressure passes through the throttle boost valve unaffected. When T.V. pressure increases above 60 psi, the force created by · T.V. pressure acting on the end of the throttle boost valve, minus the force of T.V. pressure acting on the area differential on the spring side, will exceed the force of the spring. This causes the valve to move against the spring, closing off primary T.V. pressure to the area differential on the spring side and permitting this area to be fed from line pressure, causing a boost in the pressure used for shift delay only. Because the area of the end of the throttle boost valve exceeds the area differential on the spring side by approximately 2! to I, throttle boost pressure above 60 psi primary T.V. pressure will increase 2.5 psi, per I psi primary T.V. T.V. pressure from the throttle booster valve is delivered to the downshift valve, throttle modulator valve, cut-back valve, and spring end of the 2-3 backout valve. Figure 19 shows the relationship between primary T.V. pressure and boosted throttle pressure. THROTTLE MODULATOR VALVE The throttle modulator valve, located in the end of the 2-3 shift valve bore, reduces throttle pressure which acts on the ends of the 2-3 shift valve and on the area differential of the 1-2 shift valve.
PART 7-2- C4 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION Modulated throttle pressure in these areas provides shift delay in relation to throttle opening. CUT BACK VALVE Increased line pressure is required to prevent clutch and band slippage under stall conditions. As vehicle speed increases, the requirements for increased line pressure are considerably reduced. The cut back valve provides for the reduction in line pressure. When governor pressure acting on the end of the cut back valve exceeds the force of T.V. pressure and throttle boost pressure opposing governor pressure the cut back valve will move, cutting off primary T.V. pressure being fed to the pressure booster valve and intermediate band accumulator valve. The cut back valve movement will therefore vary with engine throttle opening and vehicle speed. See Figure 22 for line pressure variation with output shaft rpm (vehicle speed) at constant vacuum values. WIDE OPEN THROTTLEI" VACWM NOM.
160l-----. 120
CLOSED THROTTLE-ABOVE 17'' VACUUM
o~-----~-~~-~--
o
5
10 15 20 25 OUTPUT SHAFT RPM x 10
30
D1569·A
FIG. 22 - Line Pressure Versus
Output Shaft RPM LINE COASTING BOOST VALVE The line coasting boost valve is provided to boost line pressure under light throttle or closed throttle driving conditions in 2, 1 or R ranges. The boosted line pressure controls the 2-1 downshift point in 1 range. Primary T.V. pressure is delivered to the end of the line coasting boost valve and to the upper valley of the pressure booster valve. 1-R or 2 oil pressure is directed from the manual valve through a ball shuttle valve to the line coasting boost valve. Under throttle off conditions, the force created by 1-R or 2 oil acting on the area differential will be directed through a ball shuttle valve to the end of the pressure booster valve. The output of the coasting boost valve decreases with an increase in primary T.V. pressure. Primary T.V. pressure acting on the pressure
booster valve tends to increase line pressure, however coasting boost pressure is decreasing, resulting in a slight reduction in regulated line pressure from 20" to s· manifold vacuum at Zero or low vehicle speeds. Below 8" manifold vacuum, the output pressure of the coasting boost valve will connect to primary T.V. pressure from the cutback valve, which will increase regulated line pressure. At high road speeds (after cutback) the output of the coasting boost valve will decrease from 20" through o· manifold vacuum which slightly decreases regulated line pressure. DOWNSHIFT VALVE (fn 1, R and 2 Ranges) 1-R or 2 oil pressure is delivered to the downshift valve. The difference in diameter between the lands provides an area differential for regulation. This pressure will be referred to later as regulated downshift valve oil pressure and is used primarily to control the 2-1 downshift point in 1 range. When the throttle is opened through detent the downshift valve is forced to the right against spring pressure. Boosted throttle pressure (T.V. pres· sure on 250 2V and 302) now re· places regulated downshift pressure and is directed to the 2-3 and 1-2 shift valves. (In D Range) Because there is no control (line) pressure feed to the downshift valve in this range it is ineffective until the throttle is opened through detent. At this point boosted throttle pressure (T.V. pressure on 250 2V and 302) enters the valve and is directed to the 2-3 and 1-2 shift valves to give a 3-2 or 2-1 kickdown shift depending on road speed. 1-2 SHIFT VALVE TRAIN AND 2-3 SHIFT VALVE The 1-2 shift valve train is composed of the 1-2 shift valve, 02 valve, and the 1-2 shift valve spring. Operation of the 1-2 shift valve train, 2-3 shift valve, and the downshift valve in the various modes is as follows : (D Range: 1-2 Upshifts and 2-1 Downshifts) In 0 range the 1-2 shift valve is held closed (up) by modulated throttle pressure acting on the differential area between the two lands of the 1-2 shift valve, by 0 oil pressure acting on the differential in
7-55
area between the two lands at the spring end of the 02 valve, and by the 1-2 shift valve spring. Governor pressure tends to move the 1-2 shift valve train against these forces. When force created by governor pressure exceeds the forces holding the 1-2 shift valve train closed, the 1-2 shift valve and 02 valve will be opened (moved downward), closing the exhaust port and allowing 0 oil to pass through the 02 valve to accomplish the 1-2 shift. When the 02 valve is moved downward 0 oil is exhausted from the differential in areas provided by the lower two lands of the 02 valve. This action eliminates the force created by 0 oil which tends to hold the 1-2 shift valve train closed. If governor pressure is reduced to the point where spring force and modulated throttle pressure force exceeds governor pressure force, the 1-2 shift valve train will move up (close) cutting off the flow of 0 oil through the valve and opening the exhaust port allowing a downshift to low gear. If the throttle is open to the point where modulated throttle pressure acting on the 1-2 shift valve plus the 1-2 shift valve spring force creates a force greater than that provided by governor pressure, the 1-2 shift valve train will be closed, providing a torque demand downshift to low. If the throttle is open through detent, the downshift valve moves to allow boosted throttle pressure (T.V. pressure on 250 2V & 302) to enter the modulated throttle pressure passage at the 1-2 shift valve to provide a forced 2-1 downshift. (D Range: 2-3 Upshifts and 3-2 Downshifts) The 2-3 shift valve is held closed (up) by throttle modulator valve spring force, modulated throttle pressure force, and by line pressure force acting on the differential in area of the lands of the valve to which is it is delivered. Governor pressure tends to open the 2-3 shift valve. When force created by governor pressure exceeds the forces holding the valve closed (up), the valve will move downward allowing 0 oil .Pressure to apply the direct clutch and release the intermediate servo to accomplish the 2-3 shift. With the shift valve open (down) the throttle modulator valve is held down cutting off modulated throttle
7-56
GROUP 7-AUTOMA TIC TRANSMISSION
pressure to the 2-3 shift valve and 1-2 shift valve. In addition, the port which delivered line pressure to the qifferential in area of the shift valve lands, is closed. The shift valve will be reopened (moved up) causing a 3-2 downshift under one or more of the following conditions: GOVERNOR PRESSURE REDUCED If governor pressure is reduced to the point where it can no longer hold the shift valve down against spring force and T .V. pressure force, the valve wiU move up causing a downshift. Under closed throttle conditions, the 2-3 shift valve will close at approximately 10 mph (speed at which governor pressure is cut off). Since governor pressure is cut off at this speed the 1-2 shift valve train also closes at the same time. This will provide a 3-1 downshift when coasting in D range. THROTTLE PRESSURE INCREASED If throttle pressure is increased sufficiently, it will move the throttle modulator valve and consequently the 2-3 shift valve up, causing a 3-2 torque demand downshift. THROTTLE PRESSURE INTRODUCED BELOW 2-3 SHIFT VALVE If the downshift valve is moved through detent, boosted throttle pressure (T.V. pressure on 250 2V & 302) is directed to the underside of the 2-3 shift valve, forcing the valve up and causing a forced 3-2 downshift. Maximum 3-2 forced downshift speed is controlled by governor pressure. (D to 2 Range) If the manual vafve is moved to 2 range, the force created by 2 oil pressure acting on the area differential of the 2-3 shift valve and on the spring end of the valve plus the force of the throttle modulator valve spring will exceed the force created by governor pressure. The 2-3 shift valve will then close (move up) allowing the direct clutch applyintermediate servo release oil to exhaust, permitting the intermediate band to apply causing a 3-2 downshift. In addition, D2 oil pressure is introduced between the 1-2 shift valve and D2 valve, and regulated downshift valve oil pressure is introduced between the lands of the 1-2 shift valve. This opens (moves
down) the D-2 valve and holds it open and closes (moves up) the 1-2 shift valve and holds it closed; thus preventing a 2-1 downshift. The transmission will remain in intermediate or second gear until another mode of operation is selected. (D to 1 Range) If the manual valve is moved to I range at vehicle speeds greater than approximately 39 mph, a 3-2 downshift will be accomplished in the same manner as in 2 range, except that 1-R oil pressure instead of 2 oil pressure is directed to the 2-3 shift valve. At vehicle speeds of approximately 39 mph or lower, the force created by regulated downshift valve pressure acting on the area differential of the 1-2 shift valve plus the force of the 1-2 shift valve spring will exceed governor pressure force holding the 1-2 shift va~ve train open (down). The 1-2 shift valve train will then close (move up), exhausting intermediate servo apply and allowing 1-R oil pressure to pass through the D2 valve to the spring end of the D2 valve, and to the reverse and low band via the low servo modulator valve. The transmission will remain in low or first gear until another mode of operation is selected. (2 Range) In 2 range, 2 oil pressure is introduced between the 1-2 shift valve and D-2 valve, and regulated downshift valve oil pressure is introduced between the lands of the 1-2 shift valve. This action opens the D2 valve and holds it open and closes the 1-2 shift valve and holds it closed providing a second gear start and preventing a 2-1 downshift. The transmission will remain in intermediate or second gear until another mode of operation is selected. (1 Range) In 1 range, regulated downshift valve pressures enter the modulated throttle pressure passage to provide a manual low downshift to first gear. Once the transmission is in low gear 1-R oil pressure, which is directed to the D2 valve, passes through the D2 valve and is delivered to the spring end of the D2 valve, preventing an upshift. 1-R oil pressure which passes through the D2 valve also applies the reverse and low servo via the low servo modulator valve.
(R Range) In reverse 1-R oil pressure is directed to and through the D2 valve to the spring end of the D2 valve and to the reverse and low servo applying the reverse and low band. The force created by 1-R oil pressure on the spring end of the D2 valve and the force created by regulated downshift valve oil pressure on the area differential of the 1-2 shift valve is added to the force of the 1-2 shift valve spring, preventing any movement of the 1-2 shift valve train regardless of governor pressure. R oil pressure is directed to and through the 2-3 shift valve to the reverse-direct clutch applying the clutch and to the release side of the intermediate servo. The force created by regulated downshift valve oil pressure on the spring end of the 2-3 shift valve, and 1-R oil pressure on the area differential of the lands adjacent to the top valley of the 2-3 shift valve is added to the force of the throttle modulator valve spring, preventing any movement of the 2-3 shift valve regardless of governor pressure. 2-3 . BACK-OUT VALVE The. purpose of the 2-3 back-out valve is to provide smooth upshifts, when the throttle is suddenly closed while accelerating in second gear. Operation is as follows : Normal Throttle-On 2-3 Upshifts When the 2-3 shift valve moves to cause a 2-3 upshift, D oil pressure passes through the valve to apply the direct clutch and release the intermediate servo. This same pressure is also directed to the end of the 2-3 back-out valve. However, with throttle open, T.V. boost pressure (T.V. pressure on 250 2V & 302) on the opposite end of the 2-3 back-out valve, assists spring force in holding the valve up, so that there will be no valve movement until after the 2-3 shift has been completed. Back-Out 2-3 Upshifts When the throttle is closed during a 2-3 upshift, and before the shift is completed, there may be enough pressure in the direct clutch cylinder to apply the clutch at the reduced engine torque input, but not enough pressure to release the intermediate servo. This condition could cause a harsh 2-3 shift. However, if the throttle is closed during a 2-3 shift,
PART 7-2- C4 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION primary throttle pressure will be reduced to Zero (0), and reverse and direct clutch apply pressure on the end of the 2-3 back-out valve will move the valve down against spring force. This action immediately connects the clutch apply circuit to the intermediate servo apply circuit, reducing the pressure on the apply side of the servo to the same value as in the direct clutch (and also on the release side of the intermediate servo). When this happens, the intermediate band is released, to provide a smooth 2-3 upshift. INTERMEDIATE BAND ACCUMULATOR VALVE TRAIN The intermediate band accumulator valve train is composed of the intermediate band accumulator valve, and the accumulator valve spring. The intermediate band accumulator valve in conjunction with the intermediate servo check valve controls intermediate servo apply force on all applications of the intermediate band, under open throttle operating conditions in D, 2 or I ranges. Operation is as follows: (D Range: 1-2 Upshifts and 3-2 Downshifts) (2 and 1 Range: 3-2 Down shifts-Shifting D to 2 or 1) Fluid pressure from the 02 valve acting on the apply side of the intermediate servo piston tending to apply the servo, causes the fluid which is trapped in the intermediate servo release passage to be pres-
surized. This pressure acting on the end of the intermediate servo accumulator valve will cause the accumulator valve to move against primary T.V. pressure and/or the accumulator valve spring. The servo release pressure is exhausted through the reverse-direct clutch apply circuit to maintain a certain level of pressure on the release side of the intermediate servo until it has completely stroked, applying the band. Force created by this pressure on the release side of the servo, plus intermediate servo spring force, is subtracted from the force of control pressure acting on the apply side of the servo, thereby controlling the servo apply force. Should a change to 2 be made under closed throttle conditions, governor pressure will hold the cutback valve down providing an exhaust for the intermediate release circuit via the orifice restriction, cut-back valve, 2-3 shift valve and the manual valve. (D Range: 2-3 Upshifts) During a 2-3 upshift, D oil pressure from the 2-3 shift valve will unseat the intermediate servo check valve, bypassing the intermediate servo accumulator valve, allowing the release side of the intermediate servo to be pressurized at the same pressure level as the direct clutch, thereby releasing the intermediate band. 1-2 TRANSITION VALVE The 1-2 transition valve prevents application of the intermediate
IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS CONTROL LINKAGE ADJUSTMENTS The transmission control linkage adjustments should be performed in the order in which they appear in this section of the manual. THROTTLE ADJUSTMENTS 1. Apply the parking brake, and place the selector lever at N. 2. Run the engine at normal idle speed. If the engine is cold, run the engine at fast idle speed (about 1200 rpm) until it reaches normal operating temperature. When the engine is warm, slow it down to normal idle speed. 3. Connect a tachometer to the engine. 4. Adjust engine idle speed to the specified rpm with the transmission selector lever at D position. 5. The carburetor throttle lever
must be against the hot idle speed adjusting screw at the specified idle speed in D. To make sure that the carburetor throttle lever is against the idle adjusting screw, refer to Group 10 for the carburetor adjusting procedures.
DOWNSHIFT CABLE ADJUSTMENT 1. With the engine off, check the accelerator pedal height measured from the top of the pedal at the pivot point (Fig. 26) to the floor pan. To obtain the correct pedal height, adjust the accelerator connecting link at point A. 2. With the engine OFF, disconnect the downshift control cable at point B from the accelerator shaft lever. 3. With the carburetor choke in the off position, depress the accelera-
7-57
servo before the release of the low/ reverse servo during a manual 1-2 upshift. In 'I' low / reverse servo apply pressure is directed to the spring end of the transition valve forcing the 2-3 backout valve down against throttle pressure and the backout valve spring pressure and so closing the apply passage to the intermediate servo. When '2' is selected from 'I ' apply pressure cannot reach the intermediate servo until the low/ reverse servo apply pressure has been exhausted at the 02 valve allowing spring and throttle pressure to move the 2-3 backout valve and the transition valve up and open the intermediate servo apply ports. THROTTLE PRESSURE LIMIT VALVE The throttle pressure limit valve is a spring-loaded exhaust valve used to prevent possible over pressurization in the throttle circuit. LOW SERVO MODULATOR VALVE The low servo modulator valve provides improved engagement of the low/ reverse band when manual 'I' is selected and during a 3-1 manual downshift by stabilizing the low/ reverse servo apply pressure. In reverse gear control (line) pressure is applied to the spring end of the valve from the manual valve. This ensures that full control pressure is applied to the low/ reverse servo when reverse gear is selected.
tor pedal to the floor. Block the pedal to hold it in the wide open position. 4. Rotate the downshift lever C counter clockwise to place it against the internal stop. 5. With the lever held in this position, and all slack removed from the cable, adjust the trunnion so that it will slide into the accelerator shaft lever. Turn it one additional turn clockwise, then secure it to the lever with the retaining clip. 6. Remove the block to release the accelerator linkage.
P.EF-C DOWNSHIFT ROD ADJUSTMENT 1. Disconnect the throttle and downshift return springs. 2. Hold the carburettor throttle lever in wide-open position against stop.
7-58
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
~~
·~~ ..
--\
2. Position the transmission selector lever into the D position making sure that the selector lever i-s against the D, stop on the selector plate. 3. Shift the manual lever at the transmission into the D detent position, third from the rear. 4. Tighten the clamp on the shift rod at point A. 5. Check the pointer alignment and transmission operation for all selector lever detent positions. CONSOLE SHIFT
'"'
Selector Lever Removal and Replacement. 1. Raise the vehicle and remove the manual lever control rod (Fig. 23) 2. Lower the vehicle, remove the selector lever handle attaching screw a~d remove the handle. (Fig. 23). 3. Remove the two console attaching screws at the front of the console and the four screws in the glove box. Remove the console and gear lever slide assembly.
Column Shift
,
4. Detach the dial indicator light.
~--~ it "f... (•
I
.
)\\ ,,
ti_)
Floor Shift
FIG. 23 - Manual Linkage
S. The gear lever slide assembly, which incorporates the dial, may be detached from the console by removing the four attaching screws. 6. Remove the selector housing and lever assembly attaching bolts and remove the selector lever and housing. 7. Remove the selector lever to housing attaching nut. Remove the lever from the housing. 8. Install the selector lever in the housing and install the attaching nut. Torque the nut to 20 to 25 ft. lbs. 9.
Install the selector lever handle.
FIG. 24- Selector Lever Detent Pawl Adiustment- Typical 3. Hold the transmission in full downshift position against internal stop. 4. Turn adjustment screw on the carburettor kickdown lever to within 0.040 to 0.080 gap of contacting pickup surface of carburettor throttle lever. Fig. 26 5. Release the transmission and carburettor to the normal free posi-
tion. 6. Install the throttle and downshift return springs. MANUAL LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT COLUMN SHIFT
1. With the engine stopped, loosen the clamp at the shift lever at point A so that the shift rod is free to slide in the clamp (Fig. 23).
FIG. 25 - Neutral Start Switch
PART 7-2- C4 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7-59
250 2V 10. Position the selector as shown in Fig. 24. With a feeler gauge check the clearance between the detent pawl and plate. The clearance should be 0 .005 to 0 .010 inches. If necessary adjust the height of the detent pawl as shown in Fig. 24. 11. Remove the handle from the selector lever. 12. Install the selector lever housing and lever assembly as shown in Fig. 23. Torque the attaching bolts to 4-6 ft. lbs. 13. Install the gear lever slide assembly in the console. 14. Refit the dial indicator light. 15. Replace the console ensuring that the dial locating peg is correctly located in the bracket on the selector lever housing. 16. Install the selector lever handle and tighten the attaching screw. l7. Position the selector lever in the ''N" position. 18. Ral.se the veh1'cle. Install the transmission manual lever rod to the selector lever. With the transmission in neutral and the selector lever against the neutral stop· tighten the selector lever to manual lever rod nut. 19. Lower the vehicle and check the transmission operation in each selector lever detent position. NEUTRAL START SWITCH ADJUSTMENT 1. With the manual lever properly adjusted, loosen the two switch attaching bolts (Fig. 25). 2. With the transmission manual lever' in neutral, rotate the switch and insert the gauge pin (No. 43 drill shank end) into the gauge pin holes of the switch. The gauge pin has to be inserted to a full U inch into the three holes of the switch (Fig. 25). 3. Torque the two switch attaching bolts to specification, Remove the gauge pin from the switch. 4. Check the operation of the switch. The engine should start only with the transmission selector lever in Neutral and Park. BAND ADJUSTMENTS INTERMEDIATE BAND 1. Clean all dirt from the band adjusting screw area, loosen the locknut, remove and discard the locknut, instal a new locknut, do not tighten. 2. Torque the adjusting screw to 10 ft. lbs., when using tool no. 121111 or BW-54 7 A-50-2 set the torque wrench (W & B model 3200B) to 60 in. lbs. This will
Tt.t.NS. ONLY
LEVU
250 1V
" C"'
"C'
BlOCK ~HUATC>a n:Dit.L IN W .O .T. POSITION . .OTATE lEVU " C ' COUNTU CLOCKWISE TO CONTACT INTEitNAl STOf'. HOlD lEVU " C"' ON STOf' AND ADJUST CAlLIE TO f iT ACCIELUA TOl
TlANS DOWNSHIFT LEVU ltOTAUD AND HElD AGA INST
SHAFT lEVU. TUitN TIU'*"ION ONE ADDITIONAL TU.N CLOCICWISf
INTUNAL IUCICDOYIN STOI'
IY
P'UUING CAlLE
AND SfC\J):E TO LEVU .
ADJUSTING END. LEVU
··c·
ULIEASE lOCK
351 2V ~
~ VI EW
~~~~r:,.,~.. ~~ ~'
W
m -•
JU5f TOI..IOti!S
:. c::;.;~:;,;-~':"
CONTtOl
ADJUSTMENI
1.
W IT H TRANS . ROD 7 A116 INSTALL ED, HOLD CAI!&UR H TOR THtOTTLE LE VU IN WO.T . POSITION-AGAI NST STO'
1
HOLD TRA NSM ISSION IN FU LL KICK OOWN POSI TION AGAI NST INTERNA L STO '
3
TURN ADJUSTME NT SCREW ON CA.IIIURHTOR ICICIC · DOWN LEVEll TO 010 TO WITHIN 040 GAP OF CoF.ifACTING PICIC · UP THRO TTLE lEVEl SURFACE OF CA Rl
$
~J.J"'.!;.,·~r.· ;;""''~::..;~~.
?~"c;:...:r CAIU
ACCHERATOl 'EDAL. DOWN
<11
RHfASE CARl ANO FREE POSIT IONS
.5
INSTALL ACCHUATOI ~737 AND ICICIC · DOWN 711<110 lfUACliNG SPRINGS.
TR ANS .
TO
l / D CA••t ADJU$lMENT
...a<.
a..:::.:::.:::..::..::._______......~.-_ _, 302 2V
WITH- THE ASSEMilED.
liNKAG E COM PLETELY THIS DISTANCE
TO IE SUCH THAT THE
IS
UANSMISS ION DOWNSH IFT lEVU " C ltOTATU COUNTU CLOCKWISE
COLOU R CODE
AND CONTACTS THE INTERNAL STOf' WITH THE PfOAL O(flESSfD TO W.O.T. TlANS DOWNSH IFT
lEVU
3.5 1· '1V ILUE VI EW
3SI · <~~V
W
ltOTATfD AND HELD AGA INST INTERNAL ICIO::DOWN STO I' 1'1' 1'\Jllii\IG CAllE ADJUSTING END.
O RANGE
,..,TOMATIC TIANSMISSION CONT.Ol ADJUSTMfNT
'' X"
.OTATE lEVEl " C' COUNTU CLOCICWIR TO CONTACT INTERNAL STOf'. ON STOf' Al''t ADJUST CAlliE TO Flf ACCIELUA TV!t
HOLD LEVU ''C '
~rA~TEI~~~~~ISE AND SEC\Jl:E TO LEVU.
·lElfASE ACCflEIATOI 'fOAl .
VIEW
" V"
LEVU "C"
FIG. 26-Throttle Linkage Installations result in 10 ft. lbs. torque at the screw. (Fig. 27) 3. Back off the adjusting screw exactly 1i turns. 4. Hold the adjusting screw from turning and torque the locknut to specification. NOTE: The lock nut must be discarded and a new one installed each time the band is adjusted. LOW -REVERSE BAND 1. Clean all dirt from the band adjusting screw area, loosen the locknut, remove and discard the locknut, instal a new locknut, do not tighten. 2. Torque the adjusting screw to 10 ft. lbs., when using tool no. 121111 or BW-54 7 A-50-2 set the torque wrench (W & B model 3200B) to 60 in. lbs. This will
result m 10 ft. lbs. torque at the screw. (Fig. 28) 3. Back off the adjusting screw exactly 3 full turns. 4. Hold the adjusting screw from turning and torque the lock nut to specification. NOTE: The lock nut must be discarded and a. new one installed each time the hand is adjusted. OIL PAN AND CONTROL VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT 1. Raise the car so the transmission oil pan is accessible. . . 2. Loosen the oil pan retammg bolts and lower one edge of the oil pan to drain the transmission oil. If the same fluid is to be used again, filter the fluid through a 100 mesh screen. Re-use the fluid only if it is in good condition.
7-60
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
FIG. 27 - Intermediate Band Adjustment
valve while removing the control assembly could cause the manual to become bent or damaged. 6. Refer to the Major Repair Operation for control valve body repair operation. 7. Thoroughly clean and remove all the gasket material from the oil pan and the oil pan mounting face of the case. Install the valve body to the case, engaging the transmission inner control levers with the valve body manual and downshift valves. 8. Shift the manual lever at the transmission into the P detent position. In.stall the valve body to the case. Position the inner downshift lever between the downshift lever stop and the downshift valve. Make sure the two lands on the end of the manual valve engage the actuating pin on the manual detent lever. Install seven valve body-to-case bolts. Do not tighten the bolts at this stage. 9. Position the detent valve spring to the lower valve body and install the spring-to-case bolt finger tight (Fig. 29). 10. Hold the detent spring roller in the centre of the manual detent lever and install the detent springto-lower valve body bolt. Tighten the bolt to specifications. 11. Tighten all the control valve body-to-case attaching bolts to specifications. 12. Place a new gasket on the oil pan. Install the oil pan and attaching bolts. Torque the bolts to specification. On PEF-C models connect the filler tube to the pan and tighten securely.
13. Lower the car and fill the transmission with fluid. Check the transmission oil pan area for fluid leakage. INTERMEDIATE SERVO REPAIR 1. Raise the car and remove the four servo cover to case attaching bolts. 2. Remove the servo cover, gasket, piston, and piston return spring. Remove the piston from the cover (Fig. 61). 3. Remove the piston seals and cover gasket. 4. Install new piston seals on the piston. Lubricate the piston seals with clean transmission fluid. Install the servo piston in the cover. 5. Install the piston return spring in the case. Place a new gasket on the cover. Install the piston and cover into the transmission case making sure that the slotted end of the piston is in a horizontal position so that it will engage the strut. Use two -ilr-18 x ll bolts, 180° apart to position the cover against the case. 6. Install the two servo cover attaching bolts. Remove the two ll-inch bolts and install two attaching bolts. Torque the bolts to specification. 7. Adjust the intermediate band. Lower the car and check the transmission fluid level. 8. If the band cannot be adjusted properly, the struts are not in position. Remove the oii pan and valve body. Install the struts, valve body, oil pan, and adjust the band. Refill th~ transmission with fluid.
FIG. 28 - Low-Reverse Band Adjustment On PEF-C models disconnect the fluid filler tube from the transmission oil pan to drain the fluid. 3. Remove the transmission oil pan attaching bolts, oil pan and gasket. 4. Shift the transmission manual lever to the P position and remove the two bolts that attach the detent spring to the valve body and case (Fig. 29). 5. Remove the remaining valve body-to-case attaching bolts. Hold the manual valve to keep it from sliding out of the valve body and remove the valve body from the case. Failure to hold the manual
02058-A
FIG. 29- Control Valve Body Detent Spring Installed
PART 7-2- C4 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7-61
FIG. 30 - Removing Extension Housing Seal EXTENSION HOUSING
BUSHING
~~·;.;;,;:==::::::-::::..
D1025-1
FIG. 31 - Removing Extension Housing Bushing
EXTENSION HOUSING
D1026-B
FIG. 32 - Installing Extension Housing Bushing
FIG. 33 - Installing Extension Housing Seal LOW-REVERSE SERVO PISTON REPLACEMENT 1. Raise the car on a hoist. 2. Loosen the reverse band adjust ing screw lock nut. Tighten the reverse band adjusting screw to lO ft-lbs torque. (Tightening the screw will insure that the band strut will be held against the case by the band, preventing it from falling down when the reverse servo piston assembly is removed.) 3. Remove the four servo covers to case attaching bolts. Remove the servo cover and seal from the case. 4. Remove the reverse servo piston and stem from the case as an assembly. 5. Insert a small screwdriver in the hole of the piston stem (Fig. 59). Remove the piston attaching nut. 6. Remove the servo piston from the stem . The piston seal cannot be replaced without replacing the
piston. The seal is bonded to the piston. 7. Position the spacer on the piston stern. Install a new piston on the stern. Install the attaching nut. Torque the nut to specification. 8. Install the reverse servo piston assembly in the case. Make sure that the release spring is in position. 9. Install the reverse servo cover and a new seal, using the same procedure as with the intermediate servo. Torque the bolts to specification. 10. Adjust the reverse band. 11. Lower the car and check the transmission fluid level. EXTENSION HOUSING BUSHING AND REAR SEAL REPLACEMENT 1. Disconnect the drive shaft from the transmission. 2. When only the rear seal needs
FIG. 34 - Governor Installed replacing, carefully remove it with a tapered chisel or the tools shown in Fig. 30. Remove the bushin g as shown in Fig. 31. Use the bushing remover carefully so that the spline seal is not damaged. 3. When installing a new bushing use the special tool shown in Fig. 3l. 4. Before installing a new seal, inspect the sealing surface of the universal joint yoke for scores. If scores are found, replace the yoke. 5. Inspect the counterbore of the housing for burrs and remove with crocus cloth. 6. Install the seal into the housing with the tool shown in Fig. 33. The seal should be firmly seated in the bore. Coat the inside diameter of the fiber portion of the seal with B8A-19589-A lubricant. 7. Coat the front universal joint spline with B8A-19589-A lubricant and install the drive shaft. EXTENSION HOUSING AND GOVERNOR REPLACEMENT 1. Raise the car on the hoist. 2. Remove the drive shaft. Position the transmission jack to support the transmission. 3. Remove the speedometer cable from the extension housing. 4. Remove the extension housing to crossmember mount attaching bolts. Raise the transmission and remove the mounting pad between the extension housing and the crossmember. 5. Loosen the extension housing attaching bolts to drain the transmission fluid. Disconnect the exhaust inlet pipes at the manifold and lower the inlet pipes.
7-62
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
6. Remove the six extension housing-to-case attaching bolts and remove the extension housing. 7. Remove the governor housingto-governor distributor attaching bolts (Fig. 34). Remove the governor housing from the distributor. 8. Refer to Major Repair Operations for governor repair operations. 9. Install the governor housing on the governor distributor (Fig.
34). Install the attaching bolts and torque the bolts to specification. 10. Install a new extension housing gasket on the case. Install the extension housing and six attaching bolts. Torque the bolts to specification. 11. Install the transmission mounting pad to the crossmember. Lower the transmission and install the extension housing-to-crossmem-
her attaching bolts. Torque the attaching bolts to specification. Remove the transmission jack. 12. Connect the speedometer cable to the extension housing. Install the drive shaft. 13. Install the inlet pipes on the manifold. 14. Lower the car and fill the transmission with fluid. 15. Check the extension housing area for fluid leakage.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION REMOVAL 1. Raise the car and remove the two converter cover attaching bolts at the lower front side of the converter housing. Remove the cover. l. Remove the two converter drain plugs (Fig. 35). Drain the fluid from the converter. Install the two converter drain plugs. 3. Remove the drive shaft and install the extension housing seal replacer tool in the extension housing. 4. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the transmission vacuum unit. Disconnect the vacuum line from the retaining clip. 5. Remove the two extension housing to crossmember bolts. 6. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing. 7. Disconnect the exhaust pipe flange from the manifolds. 8. Remove the parking brake cable from the equalizer lever. 9. Loosen the transmission oil pan bolts and drain the fluid at one corner of the oil pan. Tighten the attaching bolts after the fluid has drained. 10. Disconnect the fluid cooler lines from the transmission case. Remove the fluid tube from the case. 11. Remove the manual and kickdown linkage rods from the transmission control levers. ll. Remove the starter cable. Remove the starter attaching bolts and remove the starter from the converter housing. 13. Remove the four converterto-flywheel attaching nuts. 14. Position the transmission jack to support the transmission and secure the transmission to the jack with a safety chain.
FIG. 35 - Converter Drain Plug Location
FIG. 36 - Transmission Mounted on Jack 15. Remove the four crossmember and mounting pad attaching bolts and lower the crossmember . . 16. Remove the five converter housing-to-engine; attaching bolts. Lower the transmission {Fig. 36), and remove it from 'Under the car. INSTALLATION 1. With the converter properly installed, place the transmission on the jack (Fig. 36). Secure the transmission to the jack with the safety
chain. 2. Raise the transmission into position and install the five converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts. Torque the bolts to specification. Remove the safety chain from the transmission. 3. Position the crossmember and mounting pad into position and install the four attaching bolts. Torque the bolts to specifications. 4. Lower the transmission and install the extension housing and crossmember attaching bolts. Torque the bolts to specification. 5. Install the four flywheel-toconverter attaching nuts. Torque the nuts to specification. 6. Remove the transmission jack. Connect the vacuum hose to the transmission vacuum unit. Install the vacuum line retaining clip. 7. Install the transmission fluid filler tube. Connect the fluid cooling lines to the transmission case. 8. Connect the linkage rods to the transmission downshift and manual control levers. 9. Connect the speedometer cable to the extension housing. 10. Connect the exhaust inlet pipes to the manifolds. 11. Install -and adjust the parking brake cable at the equalizer lever. 12. Install the converter housing cover and torque the attaching bolts to specification. 13. Install the starter and torque the bolts to specification. Connect the starter cable. 14. Install the drive shaft. Torque the companion flange U-bolt nuts to specification. 15. Lower the car and fill the transmission with fluid. Adjust the manual and kickdown linkage.
PART 7-2- C4 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7-63
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS Before removing any of the subassemblies, thoroughly clean the outside of the transmission to prevent dirt from entering the mechanical parts. During the repair operations, refer to Part 7-1 for common adjustments and repairs or cleaning and inspection procedures. During the transmission disassembly or assembly operations, ten thrust washers located between the sub-assemblies must be removed and installed. It is important that each thrust washer be in the correct position during the assembly operation. To properly locate and identify the thrust washers, the various positions of the thrust washers are shown in the illustrations and are numbered 1 through 10. Number I is the first thrust washer located at the front pump. The last thrust washer, No. 10, is located at the parking pawl ring gear.
01381-A
FIG. 38 - Removing or Installing Primary Throttle Valve
LOW-RE VE RSE BAND ADJUSTING SC REW
LOW RE VERSE BAND STRUTS 0 1384· C
FIG. 41 -Band Adiusting Studs and Struts 6. Remove control valve body. 7. Loosen the intermediate band adjusting screw (Fig. 41) and remove the intermediate band struts from the case. Loosen the lowreverse band adjusting screw and remove the low-reverse band struts (Fig. 41).
DISASSEMBLY OF TRANSMISSION 1. Remove the converter from the transmission front pump and converter housing. 2. Remove the transmission vacuum unit with the tool shown in Fig. 37. Remove the vacuum unit gasket and control rod. 3. From the vacuum unit hole in the case, remove the primary throttle valve (Fig. 38). 4. Remove the two extension housing-to-case attaching bolts and mount the transmission in the holding fixture as shown in Fig. 39. 5. Remove the oil pan attaching bolts, and the oil pan and gasket.
FIG. 39 - Transmission Mounted in Holding Fixture
FIG. 37- Removing Vacuum Unit
FIG. 40- Control Valve Attaching Bolts
01382-A
TRANSMISSION END PLAY CHECK 1. To keep the output shaft in alignm~nt during the . end play check, mstall the extenston housing oil seal replacer tool or a front universal joint yoke in the extension housing. 2. Remove one of the front pump-to-case attaching bolts and mount the dial indicator as shown in Fig. 42. :\. The input shaft is a loose part and has to be properly engaged with
D 1383·8
D1385-B
FIG. 42 - Checking End Play
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7-64
SELECTIVE THRUST WASHERS (FOR END· PLAY CORRECTION) ~RONT PUMP STATOR SUPPORT
THRUST WASHER NO. 1 Red
0.053· 0.0575 0.070. 0.074 0.087. 0.091 0.104. 0.108 0.121-0. 125
Green
THRUST WASHER NO. 2 No. Stamped Woaher
Metal Thr'(&t Washer
0.043· 0.041 0.058- O.OS6 0.075-0.073
Natural
Block Yellow SPACER
NYLON SELECTIVE THRUST WASHER NO.1
0.036· 0.032
(This is o selective spacer used with washer 2 or 3. When used, install next to stator su ort.
0 1865-0
D 1869· B
FIG. 43- Selective Thrust Washer Locations the spline of the forward clutch hub during the end play checking procedure. Move the input shaft and gear train toward the back of the transmission case. 4. With the dial indicator contacting the end of the input shaft, set the indicator at zero (Fig. 42). 5. Insert a screwdriver behind the input shell (Fig. 42). Move the input shell and the front part of the gear train forward. 6. Record the dial indicator reading. The end play should be 0.008 to 0.042 inch. If the end play is not within specifications, the selective thrust washers (Fig. 43) must be replaced as required. The selective thrust washers can be replaced individually to obtain the specified end play. 7. Remove the dial indicator and remove the input shaft from the front pump stator support (Fig. 44). REMOVAL OF CASE AND EXTENSION HOUSING PARTS 1. Rotate the holding fixture to put the transmission in a vertical position with the converter housing up.
FIG. 44 - Removing or Installing Input Shaft
INPUT SHELL
FIG. 47 - Lifting Input Shell and Gear Train
D 1867·8
FIG. 45 - Removing Front Pump
'
'
,.; CLEARANCE
INTERMEDIA BAND HOLE IN CASE
'P
edge of the case. Remove the front pump and gasket from the case. If the selective thrust washer No. 1 did not come out with the front pump, remove it from the top of the reverse-high clutch. 4. Remove the intermediate and low-reverse band adjusting screws from the case. Rotate the intermediate band to align the band with the clearance hole in the case (Fig. 46). Remove the intermediate band from the case. If the intermediate band is to be re-used, do not clean it in a vapor degreaser, or with a detergent solution. Clean the band with a lint free cloth. 5. Using a screwdriver between the input shell and rear planet carrier (Fig. 47) lift the input shell upward and remove the forward part of the gear train as an assembly (Fig. 48). 6. Place the forward part of the gear train in the holding fixture shown in Fig. 49.
D 1389-A
FIG. 46 - Removing or Installing Intermediate Band 2. Remove the five converter housing to case retaining bolts. Remove the converter housing from the transmission case. Remove the six converter housing and front pump to case retaining bolts on the PEE-AC model, or the five converter housing to case retaining bolts on the PEF-C model. 3. Remove the seven front pump attaching bolts. Remove the front pump by inserting a screwdriver behind the input shell (Fig. 45). Move the input shell forward until the front pump seal is above the
D 1870 . B
FIG. 48- Removing or Installing Forward Part of Gear Train
7-65
PART 7-2- C4 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FORWARD GEAR TRAIN ASSEMBLY
[) e
I~
[
19 LOW-R
D1396-A
FIG. 53 - Removing or Installing Low-Reverse Band
FIG. 52 - Removing or Installing Reverse Ring Gear Hub Retaining Ring 7. From the g-ear train in the holding fixture, remove the reversehigh clutch and drum from the forward clutch (Fig. 50). 8. If thrust washer No. 2 (Fig. 43) did not come out with the front pump, remove the thrust washer from the forward clutch cylinder.
FIG. 49- Forward Part of Gear Train Positioned in Holding Fixture
If a selective spacer was used. remove the spacer. Remove the forward clutch from the forward clutch hub and ring gear (Fig. 50). 9. If thrust washer No. 3 (Fig. 50) did not come out with the forward clutch, remove the thrust washer from the forward clutch hub. 10. Remove the forward clutch hub and ring gear from the front planet carrier (Fig. 50). 11. Remove thrust washer No. 4 and the front planet carrier from the input shell. SUN GEAR
FORWARD CLUTCH HUB AND RING GEAR
INPUT SHELL
THRUST NO. 5
REVERSE-HIGH CLUTCH
FIG. 50- Forward Part of Gear Train Disassembled REVERSE PLANET CARRIER
I
SPRING RETAINER
REVERSE RING GEAR AND HUB
l ~-
'""" OAC'
"iJ ~
THRUST WASHER NO . 7 LOW AND REVERSE DRUM
FIG. 51 -Lower Part of Gear Train Disassembled
ONE-WAY CLUTCH SPRINGS (12) AND ROLLERS ( 1 2)
OUTER RACE
7-66
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
12. Remove the input shell, sun gear and thrust washer No. 5 from the holding fixture (Fig. 50). 13. From inside the transmission case, remove thrust washer No. 6 (Fig. 51) from the top of the reverse planet carrier. 14. Remove the reverse planet carrier and thrust washer No. 7 from the reverse ring gear and hub (Fig. 51). 15. Move the output shaft forward and with the tool shown in Fig. 52 remove the reverse ring gear hub to output shaft retaining ring. 16. Remove the reverse ring gear and hub from the output shaft. Remove thrust washer No. 8 from the low and reverse drum. 17. Remove the low-reverse band from the case (Fig. 53). 18. Remove the low-reverse drum from the one-way clutch inner race (Fig. 51). 19. Remove the one-way clutch inner race by rotating the race clockwise as it is removed. 20. Remove the 12 one-way clutch rollers, springs and the spring retainer from the outer race (Fig. 51). Do not lose or damage any of the 12 springs or rollers. The outer race of the one-way clutch cannot be removed from the case until the extension housing, output shaft and OUTPUT SHAFT
GOVERNOR DISTRIBUTOR
01398·8
FIG. 55 - Removing or Installing Governor Distributor Lock Ring governor distributor sleeve are removed. 21. Remove the transmission from the holding fixture. Position the transmission on the bench in a vertical position with the extension housing up. Remove the four extension housing-to-case attaching bolts. Remove the extension housing and gasket from the case. 22. Pull outward on the output shaft and remove the output shaft and governor distributor assembly from the governor distributor sleeve (Fig. 54). 23. Remove the governor distributor lock ring from the output shaft (Fig. 55). Remove the governor distributor from the output shaft. 24. Remove the four distributor sleeve-to-case attaching bolts. Remove the distributor sleeve from the case. Do not bend or distort the oil tubes as the tubes are removed from the case with the distributor sleeve.
FIG. 57- Removing One-Way Clutch Outer Race Attaching Bolts 25. Remove the parking pawl return spring, pawl and retaining pin from the case (Fig. 56). 26. Remove the parking gear and thrust washer No. I0 from the case. 27. Remove the six one-way clutch outer race to case attaching bolts with the tool shown in Fig. 57. As the bolts are removed, hold the outer race l~cated inside the case in position. Remove the outer race and thrust washer No. 9 from the case (Fig. 51). PARTS REPAIR OR REPLACEMENT During the repair of the subassemblies, certain general instructions which apply to all units of the transmissions must be followed.
SPRING
PARKING PAWL GEAR
FIG. 54- Removing or Installing Output Shaft and Governor Distributor
D1399·A
FIG. 56- Parking Pawl Mechanism
PART 7-2- C4 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION COVER SEAL
SERVO PISTON STEM
PISTON RETURN SPRING
PISTON AND SEAL (SEAL BONDED TO PISTON)
COVER
01401-A
FIG. 58 - Low·Reverse Servo Disassembled
FIG. 59 - Removing or Installing Low-Reverse Servo Piston
These instructions are given here to avoid unnecessary repetition. Handle all transmission parts carefully to avoid nicking or burring the bearing or mating surfaces. Lubricate all internal parts of the transmission before assembly with clean automatic transmission fluid. Do not use any other lubricants except on gaskets and thrust washers which mav be coated with vaseline to facilitate assembly. Always install new gaskets when assembling the transmission. Tighten all bolts and screws to the recommended torque outlined in the Specification Section.
FIG. 60 - Intermediate Servo Disassembled
FIG. 61 - Removing Intermediate Servo Piston
TRANSMISSION CASE AND LINKAGE REPAIR Low-Reverse Servo 1. Remove the four servo cover to case attaching bolts. 2. Remove the servo cover, cover seal, servo piston and piston return spring from the case (Fig. 58). 3. The servo piston seal is bonded to the piston. If the seal has to be replaced, replace the piston as. sembly which includes the seal. Disassemble the servo piston from the piston rod by inserting a small screwdriver in the hole of the piston rod and removing the piston attach-
7-67
ing nut (Fig. 59). Position the spacer on the piston stem if it was previously removed. Install the new servo piston and torque the piston attaching nut to specification. 4. Place the piston return spring in the servo bore of the case. Lubricate the piston seal with clean transmission fluid and install the servo piston (Fig. 58). 5. Place a new cover seal on the cover and install the servo cover. Install the four cover attaching bolts. Torque the cover to case retaining bolts to specification. Intermediate Servo Repair 1. Remove the four servo coverto-case attaching bolts. 2. Remove the servo cover, gasket, servo piston, and piston return spring from the case (Fig. 60). 3. Remove the intermediate servo piston from the cover (Fig. 61). 4. Remove the seal rings from the servo piston and cover. 5. Install a new seal on the cover and servo piston. Lubricate the seals with clean transmission oil. Install the piston into the cover. Be careful not to damage the piston seal. 6. Install the piston return spring in the servo bore of the case. 7. Place a new gasket on the servo cover. Position the servo piston and cover assembly into the case making sure that the slot is in a horizontal position to engage the strut. Use two 1"s-18 bolts, 1~ inch long, 180° apart, to position the cover against the case. Install two cover attaching bolts. Remove the two I i inch bolts and install the other two cover attaching bolts. Torque the attaching bolts to specification. Downshift and Manual Linkage I. Remove the downshift outer lever attaching nut. Remove the down~hift outer and inner levers. From inside the transmission case. remove the upper retaining ring and flat washer from the manual lever link (Fig. 64). Remove the upper end of the lever link from the case retaining pin 2. From the back of the transmission case, remove the upper retaining ring and flat washer from the parking pawl link (Fig. 62) . Remove the pawl link from the case retaining pin. 3. From the back of the transmiSSIOn case, remove the parking pawl link, toggle rod, and manual
7-68
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION retaining pin. Install the flat washer and retaining ring. 13. Operate the manual lever and check for correct linkage operation. 14. Install the inner and outer downshift levers. Torque the attaching nut to specifications.
FIG. 62- Parking Pawl Link Installed
FIG. 63 - Removing or Installing Parking Pawl Toggle Rod lever link as an assembly (Fig. 63). 4. Remove the rear parking pawl link lower retaining ring, flat washer and link from the toggle rod (Fig. 64). 5. Remove the manual lever link lower retaining ring, flat washer and link from the toggle rod. 6. Remove the inner manual lever attaching nut and lever. Remove the outer manual lever from the case. 7. To remove the manual lever seal, use the tools shown in (Fig. 65). To install the new seal, use the tool shown in Fig. 66. 8. Install the outer manual lever in the case. Install the inner manual iever and attaching nut with the chamfer facing toward the lever (Fig. 64). Torque the nut to specification. 9. From the back of the transmission case, install the parking toggle rod and link assembly into the case (Fig. 63). 10. Install the parking pawl link on the case retaining pin. Install the flat washer and link retaining ring (Fig. 62). 11. Position the inner manual lever behind the manual lever link, with the cam of the lever contacting the lower link pin. 12. Install the upper end of the manual lever link on the case
Thread Repair-Case. Thread service kits may be purchased from local suppliers. To repair a damaged thread, the following procedures should be carefully followed. 1. Drill out the damaged threads, using the same drill size as the thread OD. For example, use a -fginch drill for a -fk-18 thread. 2. Select the proper special tap and tap the drilled hole. The tap is marked for the size of the thread being repaired. Thus, the special tap marked -fs-18 will not cut the same thread as a standard -fg-18 tap. lt does cut a thread large enough to accommodate the insert, and after the insert is installed the original thread size ( -fs-18) is restored. 3. Select the proper coil inserting tool. These tools are marked with the thread size being repaired. Place the insert on the tool and adjust the sleeve to the length of the insert being used. Press the insert against the face of the tapped hole. Turn the tool clockwise and wind the insert into the hole until the insert is ! turn below the face. 4. Working through the insert, bend the insert tang straight up and down until it breaks off at the notch.
INNER MANUAL LEVER
FIG. 64 - Case Linkage
D1408·A
FIG. 65 - Removing Manual Lever Seal
D1409-A
FIG. 66 - Installing Manual Lever Seal 5. If the inserts are not properly installed, they can be removed with the extractor tool. Place the extractor tool in the insert so that the blade rests against the top coil i to ! turn away from the end of the coil. Tap the tool sharply with a hammer so that the blade cuts into the insert. Exert downward pressure on the tool and turn it counter clockwise until the insert is removed.
MANUAL LEVER LINK
D1405-B
PART 7-2- C4 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7-69
CONTROL VALVE BODY Disassembly
When the main control is disassembled and the valve bodyto-screen gasket is removed the gasket should not be cleaned in a degreaser, solyent or any type of detergent solution. To clean the gasket, wipe it off with a lint-free cloth. 1. Remove the eight screws that attach the oil screen to the body and remove the screen and gasket (Fig. 102). Be careful not to lose the throttle pressure limit valve and spring when separating the oil screen from the valve body. 2. Remove the nine attaching screws from the underside of the lower valve body. Separate the lower valve body, gasket, separator plate and hold-down plate (Fig. 67) from the upper valve body. Be careful not to lose the upper valve body shuttle valve and check valve when separating the upper and lower valve bodies. 3. Slide the manual valve out of the body. 4. Carefully pry the low servo modulator valve retainer from the body and remove the retainer plug, spring and valve from the body. While working in the low servo modulator valve bore, pry the downshift valve retainer from the body and remove the spring and downshift valve (Fig. 68). 5. Depress the throttle booster plug and remove the retaining pin. Remove the plug, valve and spring (and ball on 250 2V and 302 2V). 6. Remove the cut-back valve and transition valve cover plate from the valve body (Fig. 68). 7. Remove the cut-back valve from the body. 8. Remove the transition valve spring, transition valve, 2-3 back-out valve and spring from the body. 9. Remove the 1-2 shift valve and 2-3 shift valve cover plate from the body. 10. Remove the 2-3 shift valve, spring and throttle modulator valve from the body. 11. Remove the 1-2 shift valve, D2' valve and spring from the body. 12. Remove the intermediate servo retaining pin and remove the intermediate accumulator retainer, valve and spring from the body. 13. Press the main oil pressure booster valve inward and remove the retaining pin. Remove the main oil pressure booster valve, sleeve,
ATTACHING SCREWS 02074-A
LOWER VALVE BODY
THROTTLE PRESSURE LIMIT VALVE
D207J.A
FIG. 67- Separating Upper and Lower Valve Bodies springs, retainer and the main oil pressure regulator valve. 14. Remove the line coasting boost valve retainer from the body and remove the spring and line coasting boost valve. Assembly 1. Place the two shuttle valves in the lower body as shown in Fig. 67. Position the gasket, separator plate and hold-down plate on the lower body and install the two attaching screws. Torque the screws to specification. 2. Insert the downshift valve (Fig. 68) into the body with the small diameter facing inward. Install the downshift valve spring and retainer. Insert the low servo modulator valve, spring and retainer plug in the body. Depress the plug and install the retainer. 3. Place the throttle booster valve spring (and ball on 250 2V and 302 2V), valve (small diameter end into spring) and plug into the body (Fig.
68). Depress the plug and install the retaining pin. 4. Place the spring, 2-3 back-out valve and the transition valve and spring in the body. 5. Place the cut-back valve in the body. 6. Secure the cut-back and the transition valve cover plate to the body with the two attaching screws. Torque the screws to specification. 7. · Place the throttle modulator valve, spring and 2-3 shift valve in the body. 8. Place the springs, D2 valve and the 1-2 shift valve in the body. 9. Secure the 1-2 shift valve and the 2-3 shift valve cover plate to the body with the three attaching screws. Torque the screws to specification. 10. Place the spring, intermediate servo accumulator valve and retainer in the body. Depress the retainer and install the retaining pin. 11. Insert the line coasting boost valve and spring in the body. Depress the spring and install the retainer.
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7-70
2-3 SHIFT VALVE
_..
..--1 i/ u~mM~:m ~ '-----TRANSITION ,_ VALVE ...
2-3 BACK-OUT VALVE
~:
/ v...
INTERMEDIATE SERVO ACCUMULATOR \ALVE
tlt~~s3~LE
REGULATOR VALVE
tt.
/THROTTLE MODULATOR
~
VALVE
~l
3 .3
:'io
i;
----LJ~5s'tD¢1[~EG
I
RETAINER~ -
\,g ~
3 f(
i .----RETAINER
~ ..,....,
><-
;.-
.....
it_ _ V'· PIN
~
H!
SLEEVE
MAINOIL
~ -------PRESSURE
..
~ •-
i8J
BOOSTER VALVE
D207S.A
FIG. 68- Upper Valve Body Disassembled
PART 7-2- C4 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION 12. Insert the main oil pressure regulator valve and spring retainer in the body (Fig. 68). Install the two springs, sleeve and the main oil pressure booster valve in the body. 13. Hold the main oil pressure booster valve in place and install the retaining pin. 14. Slide the manual valve into the valve body. Make sure that the end with the two lands closest together is inserted first. 15. Position the rubber ball shuttle valve and servo check valve in the upper valve body (Fig. 67). 16. Position the lower valve body in place on the upper valve body and secure it with the nine attaching screws. Torque the screws to specification. 17. Position the throttle pressure limit valve and spring in the lower valve body (Fig. 67). Place the gasket and oil screen in position on the lower valve body and secure with the eight attaching screws. Torque the screws to specification. FRONT PUMP 1. Remove the four seal rings
from the stator support . 2. Remove the five bolts that attach the stator support to the front pump housing. Remove the stator support from the pump housing (Fig. 69). 3. Remove the drive and driven gears from the front pump housing. 4. Install the drive and driven gears in the pump housing. Each gear has an identification mark on the side of the gear teeth that are chamfered. The chamfered side with the identification mark has to be positioned downward against the face of the pump housing.
5. Place the stator support in the pump housing and install the five attaching bolts. Torque the bolts to specifications. 6. Install the four seal rings on the stator support. Two large rings are assembled first in the ring grooves toward the front of the stator support. 7. Check the pump gears for free rotation by placing the pump on the converter drive hub in its normal running position and turning the pump housing. 8. If the front pump seal must be replaced , mount the pump in the transmission case and remove the seal with the tool shown in Fig. 70. To install the new seal use the tool shown in Fig. 71.
7-71
D1418-A
FIG. 70 - Removing Front Pump Seal
REVERSE-HIGH CLUTCH 1. Remove the pressure clutch
plate retaining snap ring (Fig. 72). 2. Remove the pressure plate, and the drive and driven clutch plates. (Fig. 73). If the composition clutch plates are to be reused, do not clean the plates in a vapor degreaser or with a detergent solution. Wipe the plates clean with lint-free cloth. 3. To remove the piston spring retainer snap ring, place the clutch hub in the arbor press. With the tools shown in Fig. 74, compress the piston return spring and remove the snap ring. When the arbor press ram is released , guide the spring retainer to clear the snap ring groove of the drum. 4. Remove the spring retainer and piston return spring. 5. Remove the piston by inserting air pressure in the piston apply hole of the clutch hub (Fig. 75).
FIG. 71 - Installing Front Pump
FIG. 72 - Removing Reverse-High Clutch Snap Ring
PUMP ASS EMBLY· 7AI03 I
PUMP HOUSING STATOR SUPPORT· 7A108
FRONT PUMP SEAL · 7A248
SEAL RINGS
()
DRIVE GEAR
) .. f~ -b ·~.,
I~' =\1 +
DRIVEN GEAR
SELECTIVE THRUST WASHERS
GASKET· 7A136 D 1894-C
FIG. 69- Front Pump and Stator Support Disassembled
7-72
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
REVERSE AND HIGH CLUTCH CYLINDER
SPRIN G RETAI NER
PI STON
L\ ~
PIS TON SEALS
PISTON RETU RN SPR ING
SNAP RIN G
DRIVEt; PLATES
J
I
PRESSURE PLATE 01897-B
FIG. 73 - Reverse-High Clutch Disassembled
FIG. 75- Removing Reverse-High Clutch Piston Tool T 65 L · 77515· A
D 1591.8
FIG. 74- Removing or Installing Clutch Piston Spring Retainer Snap Ring 6. Remove the piston outer seal from the piston and the piston inner seal from the clutch drum. 7. Install a new inner seal in the clutch drum and a new outer seal on the clutch piston (Fig. 73). Lubricate the seals with clean transmission fluid and install the piston into the clutch drum. 8. Place the clutch piston spring into position on the clutch piston. Place the spring retainer on top of the spring. To install the snap ring, use the tools shown in Fig. 74. As the press ram is moved downward, make sure the spring retainer is centered to clear the drum. Install the snap ring. Before the press ram is released make sure the snap ring is positioned inside of the four snap ring guides on the spring retainer. 9. When new composition clutch plates are used , soak the plates in transmission oi l for fifteen minutes before the plates are assembled. Install the clutch plates alternately
by starting first with a steel plate then a non-metallic plate (Fig. 73). The last plate installed is the pre!isure plate. For the correct number of clutch plates required for each transmission model, refer to specifications. 10. Install the pressure plate retaining snap ring (Fig. 72). Make sure the snap ring is fully seated in the snap ring groove of the clutch hub. 11. With a feeler gauge, check the clearance between the snap ring and the pressure plate (Fig. 76). 12. The pressure plate should be held downward as the clearance is checked . The clearance should be 0.050 to 0.071 inch . If the clearance is not within specifications, selective thickness snap rings are available in these thicknesses, 0.050-0.054, 0.0640.068, 0.078-0.082 and 0.092-0.096 inch . Install the correct size snap ring and recheck the clearance .
FIG. 76- Checking Reverse-High Clutch Snap Ring Clearance ·
FIG. 77. - Removing Forward Clutch Pressure Plate Snap Ring
PART 7-2- C4 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7-73
PISTON SEALS DRIVE PLATES SNAP RING
PISTON DISC SPRING DRIVEN PLATES
FORWARD CLUTCH CYLINDER
01425-A
FIG. 78 - Forward Clutch Disassembled
FIG. 79 -Removing or Installing Disc Spring Snap Ring
FIG. 81- Checking Forward Clutch Snap Ring Clearance RING GEAR
01428-A
FIG. 82 - Forward Clutch Hub and Ring Gear Disassembled EXTERNAL SNAP RING
FIG. 80 - Removing Forward Clutch Piston FORWARD CLUTCH 1. Remove the clutch pressure plate retaining snap ring (Fig. 77). 2. Remove the pressure plate, and the drive and driven clutch plates from the clutch hub (Fig. 78). 3. Remove the disc spring retaining snap ring (Fig. 79). 4. Apply air pressure at the clutch piston pressure hole (Fig. 80), to remove the piston from the clutch hub.
FIG. 83 - Removing or Installing Sun Gear External Snap Ring
5. Remove the clutch piston outer seal and the inner seal from the clutch hub (Fig. 78). 6. Install new clutch piston seals on the clutch piston and drum. Lubricate the seals with clean transmission fluid. 7. Install the clutch piston into the clutch hub. Install the steel ring on the piston. Install the disc spring and retaining snap ring (Fig. 79). 8. Install the lower pressure plate with the flat side up and radius side downward. Install one non-metallic clutch plate and alternately install the drive and driven plates. The last plate installed will be the top pressure plate (Fig. 78). Refer to Specification Section for the correct number of clutch plates for the applicable model transmission. 9. Install the pressure plate retaining snap ring (Fig. 77). Make sure the snap ring is fully seated in the ring groove of the clutch hub. 10. With a feeler gauge, check the clearance between the snap ring and the pressure plate (Fig. 81). Downward pressure on the plate should be used when making this check. The clearance should be 0.025-0.050. 11. If the clearance is not within specifications, selective snap rings are available in these thicknesses, 0.050-0.054, 0.064-0.068, 0.0780.082 and 0.092-0.096 inch. Insert the correct size snap ring and recheck the clearance. FORWARD CLUTCH HUB AND RING GEAR 1. Remove the forward clutch hub retaining snap ring (Fig. 82). 2. Remove the forward clutch hub from the ring gear. 3. Install the forward clutch hub in the ring gear. Make sure the hub
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7-74
EXTERNAL SNAP RING INPUT SHELL
~
SUN GEAR THRUST WASHER NO . 5
FIG. 84- Input Shell and Sun Gear Disassembled
FIG. 85 - Reverse Ring Gear and Hub Disassembled
FIG. 87- Removing or Installing Retaining Ring
ERNOR fi OUS IN(, GOVERNOR ASS EMBLY - 7(063
FIG. 86 - Governor and Oil Distributor
01907-B
is bottomed in the groove of the ring gear. 4. Install the front clutch hub retaining snap ring. Make sure the snap ring is fully seated in the snap ring groove of the ring gear. INPUT SHELL AND SUN GEAR 1. Remove the external snap ring from the sun gear (Fig. 83). 2. Remove thrust washer No. 5 from the input shell and sun gear (Fig. 84). 3. From inside the input shell, remove the sun gear. Remove the internal snap ring from the sun gear. 4. Install the internal snap ring on the sun gear. Install the sun gear in the input shell. 5. Install thrust washer No. 5 on the sun gear and input shell (Fig. 84). 6. Install the external snap ring on the sun gear (Fig. 83). REVERSE RING GEAR AND HUB 1. ~emove the hub retaining snap rmg from the reverse ring gear. 2. Remove the hub from the reverse ring gear (Fig. 85). 3. Install the hub in the reverse ring gear. Make sure the hub is fully seated in the groove of the ring gear. 4. Install the snap ring in the reverse ring gear. Make sure the snap ring is fully seated in the snap ring groove of the ring gear. GOVERNOR AND OIL DISTRIBUTOR 1. Remove the rings from the governor oil distributor (Fig. 86). 2. Remove the governor housing to distributor attaching bolts. Remove the governor from the oil distributor. Remove the governor oil screen. 3. Remove the primary governor valve retaining ring (Fig. 87). Remove the washer, spring, and primary governor valve from the housing. 4. Remove the secondary governor valve spring retaining clip, spring, and governor valve from the housing. 5. Install the secondary governor valve in the housing. Install the spring and retaining clip. Make sure the clip is installed with the small concaved area facing downward, to hold the spring in the correct position. 6. Install the primary governor
7-75
PART 7-2- C4 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Transmission Case 1. If the transmission case bushing is to be replaced, press the bus.ning out of the case with the tool shown in Fig. 88. 2. Install a new transmission case bushing with the tool shown in Fig. 88.
REMOVAL
FIG. 88 - Replacing Transmission Case Bushing valve in the housing. Install the spring, washer and retaining ring. Make sure the washer is centered in the housing on top of the spring and the retaining ring is fully seated in the ring groove of the housing. 7. Install the governor oil screen. 8. Install the governor assembly on the oil distributor and torque the attaching bolts to specification. 9. Install the rings on the distributor. Check the rings for free rotation in the ring grooves of the oil distributor.
FIG. 89 - Removing Stator Support Bushings
BUSHfiNG REPLACE~NT A service bushing remover and replacer kit has been released for the C4 transmission. The kit contains a handle, cape chisel and various adapters to remove and install the precision bushings in the transmission. If it is necessary to replace a bushitig, the following procedures should be used.
Front Pump Stator Support 1. Remove the front and rear stator support bushings if they are worn or damaged. Use the cape chisel (Fig. 89) and cut along the bushing seam until the chisel breaks through the bushing wall. Pry the loose ends of the bushing up with an awl and remove the bushing. 2. Press new bushings into the stator support with the tool shown in Fig. 90. Use the long end of the tool for the front bushing and the short end for the rear bushing. When installing the rear bushing, be sure the hole in the bushing is lined up with the lube hole in the stator support. Front Pump Housing 1. Press the bushing from the front pump housing as shown in Fig. 91. Press a new bushing into the pump housing with the handle and tool shown in Fig. 91. Make sure the bushing is installed with the slot and groove positioned to the rear of the pump body and 60 degrees below the horizontal centre line. Reverse-High Clutch 1. Remove the drum bushing if it is worn or damaged. Use the cape chisel (Fig. 92) and cut a shallow groove ! inch in length along the bushing seam until the chisel breaks
REMOVAL
FIG. 90 - Installing Stator Support Bushings
FIG. 91 -Replacing Front Pump Housing Bushing
INSTALLATION
D 1 732 · A
7·76
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION Hondle
REMOVAL D 1737 - A
FIG. 92 - Removing Reverse-High Clutch Bushing
FIG. 95 - Replacing Sun Gear Bushings through the bushing walL Pry the loose ends of the bushing up with an awl and remove the bushing. To prevent leakage at the stator support 0-rings, be careful not to nick or damage the hub surface with the chiseL 2. Position the drum in a press, and press a new bushing into the drum with the handle and tool shown in Fig. 93.
FIG. 96 - Installing Low and Reverse Brake Drum Bushing
Forward Clutch Hub 1. Press the bushing from the clutch hub as shown in Fig. 94. 2. Install a new bushing into the clutch hub as shown in Fig. 94.
Jo 1735 - A I
FIG. 93 - Installing Reverse-High Clutch Bushing
Sun Gear 1. If the sun gear bushings are to be replaced, use the tool shown in Fig. 95 and press both bushings through the gear. 2. Press a new bushing into each end of the sun gear with the tool shown in Fig. 95 .
FIG. 94 - Replacing Forward Clutch Hub Bushing
BOITOM OF CASE
01437- A
FIG. 97 - Number 9 Thrust Washer Location
FIG. 98 - Installing One-Way Clutch Outer Race Attaching Bolt
PART 7-2- C4 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION Low and Reverse Brake Drum 1. Replace the low and reverse brake drum bushing if it is worn or damaged. To remove the bushing, use the cape chisel and cut along the bushing seam until the chisel breaks through the bushing wall. Pry the loose ends of the bushing up with an awl and remove the bushing. 2. Install a new bushing with the tool shown in Fig. 96. ASSEMBLY OF TRANSMISSION When assembling the transmission sub-assemblies (Fig. 102), make sure sure that the correct thrust washer is used between certain subassemblies. Vaseline should be used to hold the thrust washers in their proper location. Lubricate thrust RETURN SPRING
PARKING PAWL
washers, bushings and journal with automatic transmission fluid. If the end play is not within specifications, after the transmission is assembled, either the wrong selective thrust washers were used, or a thrust washer came out of position during the transmission assembly operation. 1. Install thrust washer No. 9 inside the transmission case (Fig. 97). 2. Place the one-way clutch outer race inside the case. From the back of the case install the six outer race to case attaching bolts. Torque the bolts to specification with the tools shown in Fig. 98. 3. Place the transmission case in a vertical position with the back face of the case upward. Install the parking pawl retaining pin in the case (Fig. 99). 4. Install the parking pawl on the case retaining pin. Install the parking pawl return spring as shown in Fig. 99. 5. Install thrust washer No. 10 on the parking pawl gear (Fig. 100). Place the gear and thrust washer on the back face of the case (Fig. 99). 6. Place the two fluid distributor tubes in the governor distributor sleeve. Install the distributor sleeve on the case. As the distributor sleeve is installed, the tubes have to be inserted in the two holes in the case
FIG. 99- Parking Pawl and Gear
RETAINS REVERSE RING GEAR AND HUB TO OUT?UT SHAFT
RETAINS GOVERNOR DISTRIBUTOR TO OUTPU fSHAFT
01549-A
D1441-A
FIG. 100 - Number 10 Thrust Washer Location
FIG. 101 -Governor and Reverse Ring Gear and Hub Snap Ring ldentificatton
7-77
and the parking pawl retaining pin has to be inserted in the alignment hole in the distributor sleeve. 7. Install the four governor distributor sleeve-to-case attaching bolts and torque the bolts to specification. 8. Install the governor distributor assembly on the output shaft. Install the distributor retaining snap ring. Fig. 101 shows the correct snap ring that is to be used. 9. Check the rings in the governor distributor, making sure that they are fully inserted in the grooves and will rotate freely. Install the output shaft and governor distributor assembly in the distributor sleeve (Fig. 54). 10. Place a new extension housing gasket on the case. Install the extension housing, vacuum tube clip, and the extension housing-tocase attaching bolts. Torque the bolts to specification. 11. Place the transmission in the holding fixture with the front pump mounting face of the case up. Make sure thrust washer No. 9 is still located at the bottom of the transmission case (Fig. 97). 12. Install the one-way clutch spring retainer into the outer race (Fig. 103). 13. Install the inner race inside of the spring retainer. 14. Install the individual springs between the inner and outer race as shown in Fig. I 03. 15. Starting at the back of the transmission case, install the oneway clutch rollers by slightly compressing each spring and positioning the roller between the spring and the spring retainer. 16. After the one-way clutch has been assembled rotate the inner race clockwise to center the rollers and springs. Install the low and reverse drum (Fig. 102). The splines of the drum have to engage with the splines of the one-way clutch inner race. Check the one-way clutch operation by rotating the low and reverse drum. The drum should rotate clockwise but should not rotate counter-clockwise. 17. Install thrust washer No.8 on top of the low and reverse drum (Fig. I04). Install the low-reverse band in the case, with the end of the band for the small strut toward the low-reverse servo (Fig. 53). 18. Install the reverse ring gear and hub on the output shaft. 19. Move the output shaft forward and install the reverse ring
7-78
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
-----..
'I \
________ ..,. 36
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.
CONVERTER INPUT SHAFT CONVERTER HOUSING FRONT PUMP THRUST WASHER NO. I THRUST WASHER NO. 2 FRONT PUMP GASKET INTERMEDIATE BAND BAND STRUTS REVERSE AND HIGH CLUTCH DRUM 11. FORWARD CLUTCH AND CYLINDER
12. THRUST WASHER NO. 3
13. FORWARD CLUTCH HUB AND RING GEAR 14. THRUST WASHER NO. 4
15. FRONT PLANET CARRIER
21 • REVERSE RING GEAR AND HUB 22. tow AND REVERSE BAND 23. BAND STRUTS 24. THRUST WASHER NO. 8
25. LOW AND REVERSE DRUM 16. INPUT SHELL, SUN GEAR AND THRUST WASHER NO. S 26. ONE·WAY CLUTCH INNER RACE 17. THRUST WASHER Nd. 6 27. ROLLER (12) AND SPRING (12) 18. REVERSE PLANET CARRIER 28. SPRING AND ROLLER CAGE 19. THRU:.r WASHER NO. 7 29. ONE·WAY CLUTCH OUTER 20. SNAP RING
RACE
30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38. 39. 40.
/
THRUST WASHER NO. 9 CASE THRUST WASHER NO. 10 PARKING GEAR GOVERNOR DISTRIBUTOR SLEEVE SNAP RING GOVERNOR VAL YES & DISTRIBUTOR OUTPUT SHAFT EXTENSION HOUSING AND GASKET CONTROL VALVE BODY OIL PAN AND GASKET D 1378-8
FIG. 102 - Transmission Sub-Assemblies
PART 7-2- C4 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
STEP-1
7-79
STEP-2
INSTALL SPRING RETAINER INTO OUTER RACE
INSTALL INNER RACE
STE P-3 INSTALL 12 ROLLERS
INSTALL 12 SPRINGS
01551-A
FIG. 103 -One-Way Clutch Installation gear hub to output shaft retaining ring (Fig. 52). 20. Place thrust washers Nos. 6 and 7 on the reverse planet carrier (Fig. 105). 21. Install the planet carrier in the reverse ring gear and engage the tabs of the carrier with the slots in the low-reverse drum. 22. On the bench, install the forward clutch in the reverse-high clutch by rotating the units to mesh the reverse-high clutch plates with
the splines of the forward clutch (Fig. 106). 23. Using the end play check reading that was obtained during the transmission disassembly to determine which No. 2 steel backed thrust washer is required, proceed as follows: a. Position the stator support vertically on the work bench and install the correct No. 2 thrustwasher or washer and spacer to bring the end play within speci-
fications . b. Install the reverse-high clutch and the forward clutch on the stator support. c. Invert the complete unit making sure that the intermediate brake drum bushing is seated on the forward clutch mating surface. d. Select the thickest nylon washer (No. 1) that can be inserted between the stator support and the intermediate brake drum thrust surfaces and still maintain a slight clearance.
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7-80
FORWARD CLUTCH HUB AND RING GEAR
THRUST WASHER
8
FORWARD CLUTCH
D1443-A
FIG. 104 - Number 8 Thrust Washer Location Do not select a washer that must be forced between the stator support and intermediate brake drum. e. Remove the intermediate brake drum and forward clutch unit from the stator support. f. Install the selected Nos. 1 and 2 thrustwashers on the front pump stator support (Fig. 43) using enough vaseline to hold the thrust washers in position during the front pump installation. 24. Install thrust washer No. 3 on the forward clutch (Fig. 107). 25. Install the forward clutch hub and ring in the forward clutch by rotating the units to mesh the for-
REVERSE-HIGH CLUTCH
D1439-A
FIG. 106 - Installing Clutch Units D1454-A
THRUST WASHER NO . 3
FIG. 108 - Installing Forward Clutch Hub and Ring Gear
FIG. 107 - Number 3 Thrust Washer Location THRUST WASHER NO . 7
FIG. 109 - Number 4 Thrust Washer Location ward clutch plates with the splines on the forward clutch hub (Fig. 108).
/
.---· j
REVERSE PLANET CARRIER
THRUST WASHER NO. 6
FIG. 105- Number 6 and 7 Thrust Washer Location
D1444-A
26. Install thrust washer No. 4 on the front planet carrier (Fig. 109). Install the front planet carrier into the forward clutch hub and ring gear. Check the forward thrust bearing race inside the planet carrier for proper location against the thrust bearing. Make sure the race is centered for alignment with the sun gear on the input shell. 27. Install the input shell and sun gear on the gear train (Fig. Ill). Rotate the input shell to engage the drive lugs of the reverse-high clutch.
PART 7-2- C4 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FRONT PlANET CARRIER
FORWARD ClUTCH HUB AND GEAR
7-81
INPUT SHEll AND SUN GEAR
FORWARD ClUTCH
FIG. 112 - Installing Vacuum Unit
01456-A 01455-A
FIG. 110 - Installing Front Planet Carrier If the drive lugs will not engage, the outer race inside the forward planet carrier is not centered to engage the end of the sun gear inside the input shell. Center the thrust bearing race and install the input shell. 28. Hold the gear tram togetht:r and install the forward part of the gear train assembly in the case (Fig. 48). The input shell sun gear must mesh with the reverse pinion gears. The front planet carrier internal splines must mesh with the splines on the output shaft. 29. A new band should be soaked in transmission fluid for fifteen minutes before it is installed. Install the intermediate band through the front of the case (Fig. 46) so that the arrow on the band end forging, points toward the front of the transmission. 30. Install a new front pump gasket on the case. Line up the bolt holes in the gasket with the holes in the case. 31. Install the front pump stator
FIG. 111 - Installing Input Shell support into the reverse-high clutch. Align the pump-to-case attaching bolt holes. Fit bolts and torque to specifications. 32. Position the converter housing on the case. Install all but one front housing to case attaching bolt and torque them to specifications. 33. Install the input-shaft (Fig. 44). Be sure the short splined end is installed toward the rear of the transmission. Rotate the holding fixture to place the transmission in a horizontal position. Check the transmission end play as shown in Fig. 42. If the end play is not within specification, either the wrong selective thrust washers (Fig. 43) were used, or one of the I 0 thrust washers (Fig. 102) is not properly positioned. 34. Remove the dial indicator used for checking the en<1 play and install the one converter housingto-case attaching bolt. Torque the bolt to specification. 35. Install the intermediate and low-reverse band adjusting screws in the case. Install the struts for each band (Fig. 41). 36. Adjust the intermediate and
low-reverse band. Refer to In-Car Adjustments and Repair for band adjusting procedures. 37. Install a universal joint yoke on the output shaft. Rotate the input and output shafts in both directions to check for free rotation of the gear train. 38. Install the control valve body (Fig. 40) as described in In-Car Adjustments and Repairs. 39. Place a new oil pan gasket on the case and install the oil pan and oil pan-to-case attaching bolts. Torque the bolts to specification. 40. Remove the transmission from the holding fixture. Install the two extension housing-to-case attaching bolts. Torque the bolts to specification. 41. Install the primary throttle valve in the transmission case (Fig. 38).
42. Install the vacuum unit, gasket, and control rod in the case. Using the tools shown in Fig. 112, install the vacuum unit . 43. Make sure the iuput shaft is properly iustalled iD the front pump stator support and gear train. Install the converter in the front pump and the converter housing. The short spline end of the shaft should be installed to the rear of the transmission.
7-82
PART 7-3
FMX AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Sedloa Pale 1 Diagnosis and Testing ....•. • . • .•.......•.. 7- 82 2 Common Adjustments and Repairs •.••.••••• 7- 88 3 Cleaning and Inspection ••••.•.••..•.•.•..•..• 7-89 4 Description .•.•.•.•••..••...•••....•••.• 7- 9.5
D
Seedoa Page S In-Car Adjustment and Repain .•....•....• 7-103 6 Removal and Installation ................. 7-108 7 Major Repair Operations ................... 7-109
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
When diagnosing transmission problems, first refer to the diagnosis guide for the detailed information on the items that could be causing the problem. The following preliminary checks should be m!!tle before proceeding with other diagnosis checks.
Aerated fluid will cause low control pressure, and the aerated fluid may be forced out the vent. Check the transmission fluid level. Low fluid level can affect the operation of the transmission, and may indicate fluid leaks that could cause transmission damage.
TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL CHECK
TRANSMISSION FLUID LEAKAGE CHECKS
1. Make sure that the vehicle is standing level. Then firmly apply the parking brake. 2. Run the engine at normal idle speed. If the transmission fluid is cold run the engine at fast idle speed (about 1200 rpm) until the fluid reaches its normal operating temperature. When the fluid is warm, slow the engine down to normal idle speed. 3. Shift the selector lever through all positions. and place the lever at P. Do not turn off the engine during the fluid level checks. 4. Clean all dirt from the transmission fluid dipstick cap before removing the dipstick from the filler tube. S. Pull the dipstick out of the tube, wipe it clean, and push it all the way back into the tube. Be sure it is properly seated. 6. Pull the dipstick out of the tube again, and check the fluid level. If necessary, add enough fluid to the transmission through the filler tube to raise the fluid level to the F (full) mark on the dipstick. Do not overfill the transmission. Install the dipstick, making sure: it is fully seated in the tube.
FLUID AERATION CHECK A fluid level that is too high will l:ause the fluid to become aerated :
Check the speedometer cable connection at the transmission. Replace the rubber seal if necessary. Leakage at the oil pan gasket often can be stopped by tightening the attaching bolts to the proper torque. If necessary, replace the gasket. Check the fluid filler tube connection at the transmission. If leakage is found here, install a new 0-ring. Check the fluid lines and fittings between the transmission and the cooler in the radiator tank for looseness, wear, or damage. If leakage cannot be stopped by tightening a fitting, replace the defective parts. Check the engine coolant in the radiator. If transmission fluid is present in the coolant, the cooler in the radiator is probably leaking. The cooler can be further checked for leaks by disconnecting· the lines from the cooler fittings and applying 50-75 psi air pressure to the fittings . Remove the radiator cap to relieve the pressure build at the exterior of the oil cooler tank. If the cooler is leaKing and will not hold this pressure the cooler must be replaced . Cooler replacement is described in the Cooling System Section of Group II. If leakage is found at either the downshift control lever shaft or the manual lever shaft, replace either or
both seals. Inspect the pipe plug on the left side of the transmission case at the front. If the plug shows leakage, torque the plug to specifications. If tightening does not stop the leaks. replace the plug. When converter drain plugs leak, remove drain plugs with a six-point wrench . Coat the threads with FoMoCo Perfect Seal Sealing Compound or its equivalent, and install the plugs. Torque the drain plugs to specification. Fluid leakage from the converter housing may be caused by engine oil leaking past the rear main bearing or from oil gallery plugs, or power steering oil leakage from steering system. Be sure to determine the exact cause of the leak before repair procedures are started. Oil-soluble aniline or fluorescent dyes premixed at the rate of I /2 teaspoon of dye powder to I /2 pint of transmission fluid have proved helpful in locating the source of the fluid leakage. Such dyes may be used to determine whether an engine oil or transmission fluid leak is present or if the fluid in the oil cooler leaks into the engine coolant system . A black light. however. must be used with the fluorescent dye solution.
FLUID LEAKAGE IN CONVERTER AREA In diagnosing and correcting fluid leaks in the front pump and converter area, use the following procedures to facilitate locating the exact ca use of the leakage . Leakage at the front of -transmission, as evidenced by fluid around the converter housing. may have several sources. By ca reful
PART 7-3· F. M.X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION observation, it is possible, in many instances, to pinpoint the source of the leak before removing the transmission from the vehicle. The paths which the fluid. takes to reach the bottom of the converter housing are shown in Fig. I. I. Fluid leaking by the front pump seal lip will tend to move along the drive hub and onto the back of the impeller housing. Except in the case of a total seal failure, fluid leakage by the lip of the seal will be deposited on the inside of the converter housing only, near the outside diameter of the housing. 2. Fluid leakage by the outside diameter of the seal and front pump body will follow the same path which leaks by the front pump seal. 3. Fluid that leaks by a front pump to case bolt will be deposited on the inside of the converter housing only. Fluid will not be deposited on the back of the converter.
7-83
Til [
I
CR~~ ~[
~I
FRONT PUMP SEAL LEAK
4. Leakage by the front pump to case gasket may cause fluid to be deposited inside the converter housing, or it may seep down between the front of the case and converter housing. Fluid on the front of the case above the pan gasket is evirlence that the front pump to case gasket or seal could be leaking.
S. Fluid leakage from the converter drain plugs will appear at the outside diameter of the converter on the back face of the flywheel, and in the converter housing only near the flywheel. Engine oil leaks are sometimes improperly diagnosed as transmission front pump seal leaks. The following areas of possible leakage should also be checked to determine if engine oil leakage is causing the problem . 1. Leakage at the rocker arm cover (valley cover) may allow oil to flow over the converter housing or seep down between the converter housing and cylinder block causing oil to be present in or at the bottom of the converter housing. 2. Oil galley plug leaks will allow oil to flow down the rear face of the block to the bottom of the converter housing. 3. Leakage by the crankshaft seal will work back to the flywheel, and then into the converter housing. Fluid leakage from other areas, such as the power steering system forward of the transmission, could cause fluid to be present around the converter housing due to blow back
CONVERTER DRAIN PLUG LEAK
0 1311·8
FIG. 1-Typical Convertor Area Leakage Checks or road draft. The following procedures should be used to determine the cause of the leakage before any repairs are made. 1. Remove the transmission dipstick and note the color of the fluid. Original factory fill fluid is dyed red to aid in determining if leakage is from the engine or transmission. Unless a considerable amount of makeup fluid has been added or the fluid has been changed, the red color should assist in pinpointing the leak. Fluid used in the power steering system is a red dye. Since road draft may cause leaking power steering fluid to be pr-·:sent on the transmission, this leakage, if present, should be eliminated before checking the transmission for fluid leakage. 2. Remove the converter housing
cover. Clean off any fluid from the top and bottom of the converter housing, front of the transmission case, and rear face of the engine and engine oil pan . Clean the converter area by washing with carbon tetrachloride or other suitable non-flammable solvent, and blow dry with compressed air . 3. Wash out the converter housing, the front of the flywheel, and the converter drain plugs. The converter housing may be washed out using cleaning solvent and a squirttype oil can. Blow all washed areas dry with compressed air. 4. Start and run the engine until the transmission reaches iis normal operating temperature . Observe the back of the block and top of the converter housing for evidence of fluid
7-84
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
leakage. Raise the vehicle on a hoist and run the engine at fast idle, then at engine idle, occasionally shifting to the drive and reverse ranges to increase pressure within the transmission. Observe the front of the flywheel, back of the block (in as far as possible), 3nd inside the converter housing and front of the transmission case. Run the engine until fluid leakage is evident and the probable source of leakage can be determined .
~· STEEL PLATE o/a• X 1 ¥.•; DRILL TO SUIT
CONVERTER LEAKAGE CHECK During the above fluid leakage checks, if there are indications that the welds on the torque converter are leaking, the converter will have to be removed and the following check made before the unit is replaced. A leak checking tool (Fig. 2) can be made from standard parts. The tool can be used to check all converters . I. Install the plug in the converter (Fig . 3) and expand it by tightening the wing nut. Attach the safety chains. 2. Install the air valve in one of the drain plug holes. 3. Introduce air pressure into the converter. Check the pressure with a tire gauge and adjust it to 20 psi. 4. Place the converter in a tank of water. Observe the weld areas for bubbles . If no bubbles are observed, it may be assumed that the welds are not leaking.
ENGINE IDLE SPEED CHECK Check and, if necessary, adjust the engine idle speed, using the procedure given in Group 10. If the idle speed is too low, the engine will run roughly . An idle speed that is too high will cause the vehicle to creep when the transmission is shifted into gear and will cause rough transmission engagement.
MANUAL LINKAGE CHECKS Correct manual linkage adjustment is necessary to position the manual valve for proper fluid pressure direction to the different transmission components. Improperly adjusted manual linkage may cause crossleakage and subsequent transmission
failure. Refer to Linkage Adjustments in 7-22 for detailed manual linkage adjustment procedures.
SPACER-
82Q-9438-A
RUBBER PLUG 1 Y2• DIA. X 2• LONG Y2· HOLE THRU APPROXIMATELY 40 DUROMETER
PLUG
CHAIN, 10' LONG
STANOARD
VALVI
WELD TOGETHER SECURELY -MUST NOT LEAK
STANDARD BOLT Y2·-13 X -4 1/2• LONG SQUARE THREAD END REMOVE HEAD AND WELD TO WASHER
STANDARD l/8" FITTING-87971 ·S FOR RETAPPED DRAIN PLUG THREADS·USE l / 4" OVERSIZE FITTING-87973·S D l067· B
FIG. 2- Converter Leak Checking Tool 1. Attach a tachometer to the engine and a vacuum gauge to the transmission vacuum line at the vacuum unit (Fig. 4). 2. Attach the pressure gauge to the control pressure outlet at the transmission (Fig. 5). 3. Firmly apply the parking brake and start the engine .
~
............. Tire Preuure Gauge
D106--A
FIG. 3 - Typical Converter Leak Checking Tool CONTROL PRESSURE AND VACUUM DIAPHRAGM UNIT CHECK
4. Adjust the engine idle speed to the specified rpm. If the engine idle speed cannot be brought within limits by adjustment at the carburetor idle adjustment screw, check the throttle and downshift linkage for a binding condition. If the linkage is satisfactory, check for vacuum leaks in the transmission diaphragm unit (Fig. 6) and its connecting tubes and hoses. Check all other vacuum operated units (such as the power brake) for vacuum leaks. VACUUM UNIT CHECK
When the vacuum diaphragm unit is operating properly and the downshift linkage is adjusted properly, all the transmission shifts (automatic and kickdown) should occur within the
road speed limits specified in page 7-126 If the shifts do iiot occur within limits or the transmission slips during shift point, the following procedure is suggested to determine engine, transmission, linkage, vacuum diaphragm unit or valve body problems.
To check the vacuum unit for diaphragm leakage, remove the unit from the: transmission . Use a distributor tester equipped with a vacuum pump (Fig. 6). Set the regulator knob so that the vacuum gauge reads 18 inches with the end of the vacuum hose blocked off. Then connect the ~·acuum hose to the transmission vacuum unit. If the gauge sti II reads 18 inches, the vacuum unit diaphragm is not leaking.
PART 7-3- F. M.X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION As the hose is removed from the transmission vacuum unit, hold a finger over the end of the control rod. When the hose is removed, the internal spring of the vacuum unit should push the control rod outward .
lease the accelerator ped<1l quickly and observe the vacuum gauge . The
CONTROL PRESSURE TESTSThe test results of the following checks should agree with the specifications given in Fig. 7. When per.. forming control pressure tests, make certain that the service brake pedal is held in the applied position. When the transmission detent position of D is used, position the selector lever at D on the quadrant.
'-"\'NG ~
:
I
!3~~---
~2"-.j -·
-
MANIFOLD
VACUUM LINE HOSE
FIG. 5 - Vacuum Diaphragm and Control Pressure Connecting Point amount of vacuum should decrease and increase 'with the changes in throttle openings . If the vacuum response to changes in throttle opening is too slow the vacuum line to the diaphragm unit could be restricted. Make the necessary repairs before completing the test. 3. At engine idle, check the transmission control pressure gauge at all selector lever positions. Transmission control pressures should agree with the specifications shown in Figs. 7).
FIG. 4 - Typical Vacuum Test Line Connections
2. At engine idle, depress and re-
Control Pressure is High at Engine Idle (Test No. 1) If transmission control pressure at engine idle is too high in all ranges, the trouble may be in the diaphragm unit or its connecting vacuum tubes and hoses, throttle valve, or control rod . With the engine idling, disconnect lhe hose from the diaphragm unit and check the engine manifold vacuum . Hold a thumb over the end of the hose and check for vacuum. If the engine speeds up when the hose is disconnected and slows down as the thumb is held against the end of the hose, the vacuum source is satisfactory . Stop the engine, and remove the diaphragm unit and the diaphragm unit control rod . Inspect the control rod for a bent condition and for corrosion. Check the diaphragm unit for leakage with the distributor tester (Fig. 6). TEST NUMBER-2 CONTROL PRESSURE CHECK AT 10 INCHES OF VACUUM A control pressure check should be made at 10 inches of vacuum in all forward drive ranges. Advance the throttle until the engine vacuum reading is 10 inches and check the control pressure regulation. Control pressure should be as shown in Figs. 7
Control Pressure Not Within Limits at 10 inches of Vacuum (Test No. 2)
TEST NUMBER-I CONTROL PRESSURE CHECK-AT ENGINE IDLE I. With the transmission in neutral, and the engine at the correct idle speed, the vacuum gauge should show a mimimum of 18 inches. If the vacuum reading is lower than 18 inches, an engine problem is indicated or there is leakage in the vacuum line . Make necessary repairs to obtain a minimum vacuum reading of 18 inches . At different altitudes above sea lev· el, it ma y not be possible to obtain 18 inches vacuum at engine idle . At these altitudes, with idle vacuum of less than 18 inches, refer to the specifications in Fig. 7 to determine idle speed control pressure in forward driving ranges.
7-85
FIG. 6 - Testing Transmission Vacuum Unit for Leakage Control Pressure is Low at Engine Idle (Test No. 1) If control pressure at engine idle is low in all selector lever positions, trouble other than the diaphragm unit is indicated. When control pressure at engine idle is low in all ranges, check for excessive leakage in the front oil pump, case, and control valve body, or a sticking control pressure regulator valve.
If idle pressure is within specifications but pressure. at I 0 inches of vacuum are not within specification in all ranges, excessive leakage, low pump capacity, or a restricted oil pan screen is indicated . If pressures are not within specifications for specific selector lever positions only, this indicates excessive leakage in the clutch or servo circuits used in those ranges. When the control pressure is within specifications at engine idle, but not within specifications at I0 inches of vacuum, the vacuum diaphragm unit may need adjustment. TEST NUMBER-3 CONTROL PRESSURE CHECK AT 1.0 INCH OF VACUUM Check control pressure at 1.0 inch
GROUP 7-AUTOMA TIC TRANSMISSION
7-86
or less of vacuum in all forward drive ranges. The control pressure should be as shown in Fig. 7. Then move the selector lever to R. With the vacuum at 1 . 0 inch or less the control pressure should be as shown in Fig. 7. While making this pressure test, do not hold the throttle open for more than the seconds in each detent p• sition. Between each test move the selector lever to neutral and run the engine at 1000 rpm for fifteen seconds to cool the converter. If the Yacuum and pressure gauge readings are within specifications, the diaphragm unit and transmission control pressure regulating system are operating properly. If transmission control pressure is too low, too high. fails to increase with throttle opening, or is extremely erratic, use the procedure given under the following appropriate heading to resolve the problem. Control Pressure Not Within Limits at 1.0 inches or Less of Engine Vacuum (Test No.3) If idle pressure and pressures at
inches of vacuum are within specifications but pressure at engine stall are not within specification in all ranges, excessive leakage, low pump capacity or restricted oil pan screen is indicated. If stall pressures are not within specifications for specific ranges only, 10
this indicates excessive leakage in the clutch or servo circuits used in those ranges. CONTROL PRESSURE IS EXTREMELY ERRATIC If transmission control pressure is extremely erratic in D and 2, check the diaphragm unit tubes, hoses, and diaphragm push rod as given under Control Pressure Is High. If the vacuum source is satisfactory, check the diaphragm unit and repeat the tests for transmission control pressure. If control pressure is still extremely erratic, the trouble is in the transmission hydraulic regulating circuits. Clean and inspect the control valve body.
VACUUM DIAPHRAGM ADJUSTMENT The vacuum diaphragm fitted to the F.M.X. transmission is adjustable. This diaphragm should not be interchanged with C4 or C6 transmissions. The vacuum diaphragm assembly has an adjusting screw in the vacuum hose connecting tube (Fig. 8 ). The inner end of the screw bears against a plate which in turn bears against the vacuum diaphragm spring. All readings slightly high or all readings slightly low may indicate the vacuum unit needs adjustment to
D1491-A
FIG. 8 - Adiustable Vacuum Unit correct a particular shift condition. For example, if the pressure at 10 inches of vacuum was 130 psi and the pressure at 1.0 inch of vacuum was 190 psi, and upshifts and downshifts were harsh, a diaphragm adjustment to reduce the diaphragm assembly spring force would be required. If the pressure readings are low, an adjustment to increase diaphragm spring force is required . To increase control pressure, tur the adjusting screw in clockwise .T reduce control pressure, back the ac. justing screw out by turning it counterclockwise. One complete turn of the adjusting screw (360 degrees) will change idle line control pressure approximately 2-3 psi . After the adjustment is made, install the vacuum line and make all the pressure checks as outlined in Figs. 7.
The diaphragm should not be adjusted to provide pressure
CONTROL PRESSURE AT ZERO GOVERNOR RPM-
Menlfokl Yec.lnL H1o
EnJineSpltd
Tllrottlt
Idle
Closed
Above 18
, As Required
As Required
As Required
As Required
10 at or Below 10
Control Une Pressure (PSI) llnp P, N, D, 2,1
D. 2,1
56-82 59-111 82-112 146-175
R
184-221
R
(at stall)
D, 2. 1
fi> At eltitudes ebove see level, it mey not be possible to obtein 18 inches of en&ine v1cuum •t idle. For idle vacuum of less thin 18 inches, refer to the followln& tlble to determine idle speed pressure speclflc•tion In D drlvin& r.n&e.
FIG. 7
EnJint YICUUIII
Une Pressure
171nches 161nches 151nches 14 inches 13 Inches 12 inches 11 inches
57-67 57-67 57-72 57-79 57-86 57-92 57-99
7-87
PART 7·3- F. M.X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION below the ranges shown in Fig. 7, in order to change shift feel. To do so could result in soft or sUpping shift points and damage to the transmission.
SERVO
01932-A
FIG. 9 - Case Fluid Hole Identification STALL TEST
Start the engine to allow it to reach its normal temperature. Apply both the parking and service brakes while making tests. The stall test is made in D, 2, I or R, at full throttle to check engine performance, converter clutch operation or installation, and the holding ability of the forward clutch, reversehigh clutch and low-reverse or intermediate band and the gear train oneway clutch. While making this test, do not hold the throttle open for more than five seconds at a time. Then move the, selector lever to Neutral and run the engine at 1000 rpm for about 15 seconds to cool the converter before making the next test. If the engine speed as recorded by the tachometer exceeds the maximum limits specified in Fig. 10, release the accelerator immediately because clutch or band slippage is indicated. ST ALI. SPEED TOO HIGH
If stall speed exceeds specifications, band or clutch slippage is indicated, depending on transmission selector lever position. Excessive engine rpm only in D, 2, and 1 indicates forward clutch slippage as shown in Fig. 10. Excessive engine rpm only in R indicates either reverse-high clutch or low-reverse
band slippage. Excessive engine rpm only in D indicates gear train oneway clutch slippage.
second gear. With the transmission in third gear and road speed over 38 mph, the transmission should shift to second gear when the selector lever is moved from D to 1. When the same manual shift is made below about 38 mph, the transmission will shift from third to first. This check wil determine if the governor pressure and
STALL SPEED TOO LOW When the stall test speeds are low and the engine is properly tuned, converter stator clutch problems are indicated. A road test must be performed to determine the exact cause of the trouble. If the stall test speeds are 300 to 400 rpm below the specifications shown in Fig. 10, and the vehicle cruises properly but has very poor acceleration, the converter stator clutch is slipping. If the stall test speeds are 300 to 400 rpm below the specified values, and the car drags at cruising speeds and acceleration is poor, the stator clutch could be installed backwards. Remove the converter and check the stator clutch as described in Cleaning and Inspection. When the stall test shows normal speeds, the acceleration is good, but the vehicle drags at cruising speeds, the difficulty is due to a seized stator assembly. If the stator is defective, replace the converter. SHIFT POINT CHECKS
Check the mimimum throttle upshifts in D. The transmission should start in first gear. shift to second, and then shift to third, within the shift points specified in the specification section. While the transmission is in third gear, depress the accelerator pedal through the detent (to the floor). The transmission should shift from third to second or third to first, depending on the vehicle speed. Check the closed throttle downshift from third to first by coasting down from about 30 mph in third gear. The shift should occur within the limits specified in the specification section. When the selector lever is at 2. the transmission can operate only in
shift control valves are functioning properly. During the shift point check operation, if the transmission does not shift within specifications or certain gear ratios cannot be obtained, refer to the diagnosis guide to resolve the problem. AIR PRESSURE CHECKS
A NO DRIVE condition can exist, even with correct transmission fluid pressure, because "f inoperative clutches or bands. Erratic shifts could be caused by a stuck governor valve. The inoperative units can .be located through a series of checks by subsituting air pressure for the fluid pressure to determine the location of the malfunction. When the selector lever is at 2, a NO DRIVE condition may be caused by an inoperative forward clutch. A NO DRIVE condition at D may be caused by an inoperative forward clutch or one-way clutch. When there is no drive in I, the difficulty could be caused by improper functioning of the forward clutch or low-reverse band and the one-way clutch. Failure to drive in reverse range could be caused by a malfunction of the reverse-high clutch or low-reverse band. To make the air pressure checks, loosen the oil pan bolts and lower one edge of the oil pan to drain the transmission fluid . Remove the fluid pan and the control valve body assembly. The inoperative units can be located by introducing air pressure into the transmission case passages leading to the clutches, servos, and governor
Selector Lever Position
Clutch Applied
Band Applied
2
Front
Front
D A
Front and Rear
1
Front
Rear
R
Rear
Rear
FIG. 10
Engine Speed R.P.M .
(at stall) 1650-1850
-
\
7-88
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
(Fig. 9). FRONT CLUTCH Apply air pressure to the transmission case forward clutch or front clutch passage (Fig. 9 ). A dull thud can be heard when the clutch piston is applied. If no noise is heard, place the finger tips on the input shell and again apply air pressure to the forward or front clutch passage. Movement of the piston can be felt as the clutch is applied. REAR SERVO Apply air pressure to the rear servo apply passage (Fig. 9), movement of the servo piston stem indicates correct operation. If the servo does not operate, disassemble, clean, and inspect to locate the source of the trouble. If air pressure applied to either of the clutch passages fails to operate a clutch or operates both clutches at once, remove and, with air pressure, check the fluid passages in the case and front pump to detect obstructions. GOVERNOR Apply air pressure to the control pressure to governor passage (Fig. 9) and listen for a sharp clicking or whistling noise. The noise indicates governor valve movement.
servo apply passage. Operation of the servo is indicated by movement of the servo piston stem. Continue to apply air pressure to the servo apply tube or passage, and introduce air pressure into the front release tube or the intermediate servo release pressure. The front or intermediate servo should release the band against the apply pressure.
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BENCH TESTS After the transmission has been assembled and is ready for installation in the vehicle, check the hydraulic system to make sure it is operating properly. These hydraulic tests can be made on the bench so that most malfunctions of the system can be corrected before the transmission is installed in the vehicle. TESTING TOOL INSTALLATION 1. Install a plug in the filler tube hole in the case or fluid pan, and pour about four quarts of clean transmission fluid into the transmission through the
B
PRESSURE TESTS Turn the front pump at 75-100 rpm and note the gauge readings. The pressure readings on the bench test must be within the limits as outlined in Figure 7, for the engine idle check. If pressure gauge readings are within limits in all selector lever positions, install the vacuum diaphragm control rod unit.
The Diagnosis Guide (Fig. 22) lists the most common trouble symptoms that may be found and gives the items that should be checked to find the cause of the trouble.
Apply air pressure to the reversehigh clutch or rear clutch passage (Fig. 9). A dull thud indicates that the reverse-high or rear clutch piston has moved to the applied position. If no noise is heard, place the finger tips on the clutch drum and again apply air pressure to detect movement of the piston. Hold the air nozzle in the front servo apply tube or the intermediate
4. Remove the 1/8-inch pipe plug at the transmission case. Turn the front pump in a clockwise direction at 75-100 rpm until a regular flow of transmission fluid leaves the hole in the transmission case. This operation bleeds the air from the pump. 5. Install the pressure gauge (77820 or T57L-77820-A) as shown in Fig. 11.
DIAGNOSIS GUIDE
REAR CLUTCH
FRONT SERVO
speedometer gear opening. 2. Remove the vacuum diaphragm unit and the diaphragm unit control rod, and reinstall the vacuum unit if these parts had been previously installed. 3. Install the bench testing tool on the transmission.
Tool-7003 D 1062·C
FIG. 11 -Bench Testing Tool Installation- Typical
The items to check are arranged in a logical sequence which should be followed for quickest results. The letter symbols for each item are explained in the key. If items A, B, C, K, and the stall tests have already been checked during preliminary checks and adjustments, they need not be repeated.
COMMON ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL CHECK The transmission fluid level should be checked using the following procedure. I. Make sure that the vehicle is standing level; then firmly apply the
parking brake. 2. Run the engine at normal idle speed. If the transmission fluid is cold, run the engine at fast idle speed (about 1200 rpm) until the fluid reaches its normal operating temperature. When the fluid is warm, slow the engine down to normal idle
speed. 3. Shift the selector lever through all positions, and place the lever at P. Do not turn off the engine during the fluid level checks.
4. Clean all dirt from the transmission fluid dipstick cap before re-
PART 7-3- F. M. X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION moving the dipstick from the filler tube. 5. Pull the dipstick out of the tube, wipe it clean, and push it all the way back into the tube. 6. Pull the dipstick out of the tube again, and check the fluid level. If necessary, add enough fluid to the transmission through the filler tube to raise the fluid level to the F (full) mark on the dipstick. Do not overfill the transmission.
TRANSMISSION FLUID DRAIN AND REFILL Normal maintenance and lubrication requirements do not necessitate periodic automatic transmission fluid changes. If ·a major failure, such as a clutch band, bearing, etc., has occurred in the transmission, it will have to be removed for service. At this time the couverter, transmission cooler and cooler lines must be thoroughly flushed to remove any dirt. When filling a dry transmission and converter, install five quarts of fluid. Start the engine, shift the selector lever as in step 7 below, and check and add fluid as necessary. Following are the procedures for partial drain and refill due to in-vehicle repair operation. 1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist or jack stands. 2. Place a drain pan under the transmission. 3. Loosen the pan attaching bolts to drain the fluid from the transmission. 4. After the fluid has drained to the level of the pan flange, remove the rest of the pan bolts working from the rear and both sides of the pan to allow it to drop and drain slowly. 5. When the fluid has stopped draining from the transmission, remove and thoroughly clean the pan and the screen. Discard the pan
EJ
gasket. 6. Place a new gasket on the pan, and install the pan on the transmission. 7. Add three quarts of fluid to the transmission through the filler tube. 8. Run the engine at idle speed for about two minutes, and then run it at fast idle speed (about 1200 rpm) until it reaches its normal op~rating temperature. Do not race the engine. 9. Shift the selector lever through all the positions, place it at P, and check the fluid level. If necessary, add enough fluid to the transmission to raise the level to the F (full) mark on the dipstick. Do not overfill the transmission.
OIL COOLER FLUSHING PROCEDURE When a clutch or band failure or other internal trouble. has occurred in the transmission, any metal particles or clutch plate or band material that may have been carried into the cooler should be removed from the system by flushing the cooler and lines before the transmission is put back into service. In no case should an automatic transmission having a clutch or band failure or other internal trouble resulting in fluid contamination, be put back into service without first flushing the transmission oil cooler. 1. After installing a new or rebuilt automatic transmission and converter assembly in the vehicle, do not connect the cooler return line to the transmission. Place the transmission selector lever in the P (park) position and connect the cooler inlet (converter out) line to the transmission. Place a pan under the end of the cooler return line that will hold transmission fluid . Do not start the engine. 2. Install 5 quarts of automatic transmission fluid meeting Ford Specifications. 3. Start the engine and allow it to
7-89
run at normal idle speed for 3 minutes with the selector lever in p (park) position . Stop the engine and add additional transmission fluid required to complete total fill. Start the engine and allow it to run at normal idle speed. 4. Allow approximately two quarts of transmission fluid to drain into the pan placed under the end of the cooler return line. 5. If the fluid does not run clean after draining two quarts of it through the cooler, shut off the engine and add two additional quarts of transmission fluid . 6. Repeat steps 4 through 6 until the transmission fluid flowing out of the cooler return line is clean . 7. If there is no fluid flow or the fluid does not flow freely, shut off the engine and disconnect both cooler lines from the transmission and cooler. 8. Use an air hose with not more than I00 psi air pressure to reverse flush the cooler lines and the cooler . After reverse flushing, connect both lines at the cooler and the cooler inlet line (converter out) to the transmission . 9. Start the engine and check the fluid flow . If the transmission fluid flows freely, proceed with steps 4 through 7. If there is no fluid flow check for pinched cooler lines. If the flow is restricted, replace cooler lines andjor the radiator. 10. Shut off engine, remove the temporary plug from the cooler return line fitting on the transmission case and connect the cooler return line to the transmission. Check the transmission fluid level as indicated under heading Transmission Fluid Level Check . Add or remove transmission fluid as required until the proper fluid level is obtained on the dipstick. DO NOT OVERFILL THE TRANSMISSION . 11. Do n•Jt attempt to correct cooler or cooler line leaks by closing off the lines.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Clean the parts with suitable solvent and use moisture-free air to dry off all the parts and clean out oil passages. The composition clutch plates, bands and synthetic seals should not be cleaned in a vapor degreaser or
with any type of detergent solution. To clean these parts, wipe them off with a lint-free cloth. New clutch plates or bands should be soaked in transmission oil for fifteen minutes before the plates or bands are assembled.
CLEANING CONVERTER CLEANING The converter cannot be disassembled for cleaning. If there is reason to believe that the converter has an
GROUP 7- AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7-90
excessive amount of foreign material in it, the following cleaning procedure should be used: 1. Thoroughly clean the outside surfaces of the converter. Remove both drain plugs and drain as much fluid as possible. 2. Check the converter as detailed under Inspection. 3. Place the converter on the cleaning machine with the drain holes facing downward. 4. Flush the inside diameter of the converter hub for one minute using the equipment jog switch to control the pump pressure. 5. Install the filler cap on the converter. Place the converter on the mounting pad with the drain holes facing upward. 6. Connect the pump pressure line to the filler cap. Fill the converter to the drain hole level, then install the filler plugs finger tight. 7. Turn the converter over on the mounting pad so that the drain plugs are facing downward and are 90 degrees to the cross-bar. Secure the converter with the cross-bar. 8. Remove both drain plugs from the converter, then start the shaker and flushing pump motors and allow it to operate for seven mmutes in this manner. 9. Shut off the flushing pump and allow the shaker to operate until the converter is nearly dry of cleaning fluid, then shut off the shaker motor. Too/- TS8L-7902·A
L D 1<499-E
FIG. 12 -Converter Checking Tool
10. Remove the converter from the mounting pad and place it on the screen and allow all cleaning fluid to drain from it. 11. Repeat steps 5 through 10 to complete the cleaning operation. 12. After all cleaning fluid has been drained, torque the drain plugs to specification.
INSPECTION TURBINE AND STATOR END PLAY CHECK 1. Insert the tool (Fig. 12) into the converter pump drive hub until it bottoms. 2. Install the guide over the converter pump drive hub. 3. Expand the split fiber bushing in the turbine spline by tightening the adjusting nut. Tighten the adjusting nut until the tool is securely locked into the spline. 4. Attach a dial indicator to the tool (Fig. 13). Position the indicator button on a converter pump drive hub, and set the dial face at 0 (zero). 5. Lift the tool upward as far as it will go and note the indicator reading. The indicator reading is the total end play which the turbine and stator share. If the total end play ex· ceeds the limits specified in Part 7-S, replace the converter unit. STATOR ONE-WAY CLUTCH CHECK 1. Loosen the adjusting nut to free the split bushing, and then remove the tool from the converter. 2. Install the stator outer race holding tool in one of the four holes provided in the stator (Fig. 13). 3. Insert the tool in the converter pump drive hub. As the tool enters the converter, the pins will engage the stator clutch inner race spline. 4. Place a torque wrench on the tool (Fig. 13). The tool (and stator inner race) should turn freely clockwise from the pump drive hub inside the converter). It should lock up and hold a 10 ft-lb pull when the wrench is turned counterclockwise. Try the clutch for lockup and hold in at least five different locations around the converter. 5. If the clutch fails to lock up and hold a I0 ft-lb torque, replace the converter unit. STATOR TO IMPELLER INTERFERENCE CHECK I. Position the front pump as-
sembly on a bench with the spline end of the stator shaft pointing up (Fig.14). 2. Mount a converter on the pump so that the splines on the oneway clutch inner race engage the mating splines of the stator support, and the converter hub engages the pump drive gear. 3. While holding the pump stationary, try to rotate the converter counterclockwise. The converter should rotate freely without any signs of interference or scraping within the converter assembly. 4. If there is an indication of scraping, the trailing edges of the stator blades may be interfering with the leading edges of the impeller blades. In such cases, replace the converter. STATOR TO TURBINE INTERFERENCE CHECK 1. Position the converter on the bench front side down. 2. Install a front pump assembly to engage the mating splines of the stator support and stator, and pump drive gear lugs. 3. Install the input shaft, engaging the splines with the turbine hub (Fig. 15). 4. While holding the pump sta· tionary, attempt to rotate the turbine with the input shaft. The turbine should rotate freely in both direc· tions without any signs of interference or scraping noise. 5. If interference exists, the sta· tor front thrust washer may be worn, allowing the stator to hit the turbine. In such cases, the converter must be replaced. The converter crankshaft pilot should be checked for nicks or damaged surfaces that could cause interference when installing the converter into the crankshaft. Check the converter front pump drive hub for nicks or sharp edges that would damage the pump seal. OUTPUT SHAFT AND PRIMARY SUN GEAR SHAFT I. Inspect the thrust surfaces and journals for scores. Inspect the internal gear for broken or worn teeth. 2. Inspect the aluminum sleeve for scores or leakage. Inspect the ring grooves for burrs. 3. Inspect the keyway and drive ball pocket for wear, and inspect the splines for burrs, twist or wear. 4. Inspect the output shaft sleeve for alignment with the governor
PART 7-3- F. M . X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7-91
Split Fib« Bushing
END PLAY CHECK
Torque Wrench Tooi -T58L -7902-Bor 7946 - A
Tooi- T63P-7902-A
STATOR CLUTCH CHECK 01934- A
FIG. 13- Typical Converter Checking Tool- FMX Transmission
7-92
GROUP 7-AUTOMA TIC TRANSMISSION
drive ball (Fig. 16).
GOVERNOR DRIVE BAll POCKET
5. Inspect the external parking gear teeth for damage and the speedometer drive gear teeth for burrs. 6. If either the output shaft or ring gear has been replaced, place the assembled unit with the gear face down on the bench, push the shaft downward, and check the clearance between the top of the snap ring and
its groove (Fig. 17). If this clearance exceeds 0.002 inch, replace the snap ring with a thicker ring to reduce the clearance to less than 0.002 inch. Selective snap rings are available in several thicknesses for this purpose . 7. Inspect the rubber seal and stop ring at the front of the output shaft spline. If wear or damage is evident, replace the parts. 8. Inspect the primary sun gear for broken or worn teeth. Inspect all thrust surfaces and journals for scores . Check all fluid passages (Fig.
18) for obstructions and leakage. Inspect the seal ring grooves for burrs. 9. Inspect the sun gear shaft splines for burrs and wear. 10. Check the fit of the seal rings in the grooves of the shaft. The rings should enter the grooves freely without bind. 11. Check the fit of the seal rings in their respective bores. If equipped with cast iron seal rings, a clearance of 0.002-0.009 inch should exist between the ends of the rings. 12. Install the seal rings on the shaft, and check for free movement in the grooves. PINION CARRIER, ONE-WAY CLUTCH AND CENTER SUPPORT I. Inspect the clutch outer race, inner race, band surface, pinion gears, bearings, and thrust washer (Fig. 19) for roughness. 2. Inspect the center support bushing for roughness. 3. Inspect the one-way clutch cage rollers and springs for excessive wear or damage.
01935-A
FIG. 16 - Correct Position of Output Shaft Aluminium Sleeve
FRONT PUMP AND STATOR SUPPORT SHAFT D1922·A
FIG. 14- Stator to Impeller Interference Check
EXTENSION HOUSING I. Inspect the housing for cracks. Inspect the gasket surface for burrs or warpage. 2. Inspect the bushing for scores or wear. 3. Inspect the rear seal for hardness, cracks, or wear. If the seal shows wear or deterioration, replace the seal. 4. Inspect the seal counterbore and remove all burrs and scores with crocus cloth.
REAR CLUTCH
FIG. 17 -Checking Output Shaft Snap Ring Clearance
I. Inspect the drum band surface, the bushing, and thrust surfaces for scores. Minor scores may be removed with crocus cloth. Badly scored parts must be replaced. Inspect the clutch piston bore and the piston inner and outer bearing surfaces for scores. Check the air
FRONT ClUTCH
FIG. 15- Stator to Turbine Interference Check
D1937·A
FIG. 18 -
Primary Sun Gear Shaft- Cross Sectional View
PART 7-3- F. M.X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION CENTER SUPPORT
7-93
"CAM TYPE" CLUTCH RACE
CHAMFER ON PRODUCTION PART, ONLY-SERVICE PART NOT CHAMFERED
PLANET CARRIER D1931-A
FIG. 19 - Roller Type Planetary Clutch, Carrier and Center Support bleed ball valve in the clutch piston for free movement. Check the orifice to make sure it is not plugged. 2. Check the fluid passages for obstructions. All fluid passages must be clean and free of obstructions. 3. Inspect the clutch plates for wear and scoring and check the plates for fit on the clutch hub serrations. Replace all plates that are badly scored, worn or do not fit freely in the hub serrations. 4. Inspect the clutch pressure plate for scores on the -clutch plate bearing surface. Check the clutch release spring(s) for distortion.
that is not flat. 6. Check the clutch hub thrust surfaces for scores and the clutch hub splines for wear. 7. Inspect the turbine shaft bearing surfaces for scores. If excessive clearance or scores are found, discard the unit.
5. Inspect the needle bearing for worn rollers.
I. Inspect the mating surfaces of the pump body and cover for burrs. 2. Inspect the drive and driven gear bearing surface for scores, and check the gear teeth for burrs. Inspect the stator support splines for burrs and wear. 3. Check the fluid passages for obstructions. 4. If any parts other than the stator support are found defective, rt"place the pump as a unit. Minor bourrs and scores may be removed with crocus cloth. The stator support is serviced separately.
FRONT CLUTCH I. Inspect the clutch cylinder thrust surfaces, piston bore, and clutch plate serrations for scores or burrs. Minor scores or burrs may be removed with crocus cloth . Replace the clutch cylinder if it is badly scored or damaged. 2. Check the fluid passage in the clutch cylinder for obstructions. Clean out all fluid passages. Inspect the clutch piston for scores and replace 1f necessary . Inspect the piston check ball for freedom of movement
Check the splines on the turbine shaft for wear and replace the shaft if the splines are excessively worn. Inspect the bushing in the turbine shaft for scores. FRONT PUMP AND STATOR SUPPORT
REAR SUPPORT
and proper seating (Fig. 20). 3. Check the clutch release spring for distortion and cracks. Replace the spring if it is distorted or cracked. 4. Inspect the composition and the steel clutch plates and the clutch pressure plate for worn or scored bearing surfaces. Replace all parts that are deeply scored.
5. Check the clutch plates for fiatness and fit on the clutch hub serrations. Discard any plate that does not slide freely on the serrations or
I. Inspect the gasket mating surfaces for damage . 2. Inspect the support bushing for scores . 3. Inspect the rear support fluid passages for obstructions. 4. Check the fit of the fluid tubes in the support. PRESSURE REGULATOR
I. Inspect the regulator body and cover mating surface for burrs. 2. Check all fluid passages for
Dl'IJP-A
FIG. 20- Clutch Piston Check Valve obstructions . 3 • .Inspect the control pressure and converter pressure valves and bores for burrs and scores. Remove all burrs carefully with crocus cloth . 4. Check free movement of the valves in their bores. The valves should fall freely into the bores when both the valve and bore are dry . 5. Inspect the valve springs and spacers for distortion . VALVE BODY
I. Clean all parts thoroughly in clean solvent, and then blow them dry with moisture-free compressed air. 2. Inspect all valve and plug bores for scores. Check all fluid passages for obstructions . Inspect the check valve for free movement. Inspect all mating surfaces for burrs or distortion. Inspect all plugs and valves for burrs and scores . Crocus cloth can be used to polish falves and plugs if care is taken to afoid rounding the sharp edges of the falves and plugs. 3. Inspect all springs for distortion. Check all valves and plugs for free movement in their respective bores. Valves and plugs, when dry, must fall from their own weight in their respective bores . 4. Roll the manual valve on a flat surface to check it for a bent condition .
GROUP 7- AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7-94
Items to Check Transmission in Car K BWFEG ABCDWEL BG FEJ BG EF DECG J KBE LWE GFEJ B KBE K ABWFE ABGWFEJ AHWFEIB CE ER C CER HI ER C ACWFER Cl J CHI GJE GJ
Trouble SJmptoms Rough Initial Engagement in D or 2 1-2 or 2-3 Shift Points Incorrect Rough 2-3 Shift Engine Over speeds on 2-3 Shift No 1-2 or 2-3 Shift No 3-1 Shift No Forced Downshifts Runaway Engine Forced Downshift Rough 3-2 or 3-1 Shift at Closed Throttle Creeps Excessively Slips or Chatters in First Gear, D Slips or Chatters in Second Gear Slips or Chatters in R No Drive in D No Drive in 2 No Drive in 1 No Drive in R No Drive in Any Se~ector Lever Position Lockup in D Lockup in 2 Lockup in 1 Lockup in R Parking Lock Binds or Does Not Hold Transmission Overheats Maximum Speed Too Low, Poor Acceleration Transmission Noisy in N Transmission Noisy in First, Second, Third, or Reverse Gear Transmission Noisy in P Fluid Leak
c
Transmission Out of Car
r be
c
aci ac be i ac ac be c bgc bgc i bgc age
OG
I n n
F F F MNOPQSTUX
ad habd d jmp
Probably Trouble Sources
A. B. C. D. E. F. G. H. I. J. K. L M. N. 0. P. Q.
R.
Fluid Level Vacuum Diaphragm Unit or Tubes Manual Linkage Governor Valve Body Pressure Regulator Front Band Rear Band Rear Servo Front Servo Engine I die Speed Downshift Unkage Converter Dr ain PI ugs Oil Pan Gasket, Drain Plug or Tube Oil Cooler and Connect ions Manual or Throttle Lever Shaft Seal 1/8-inch Pipe Plug in Side of Case Perform Air Pressure Check
FIG. 21 -
S. T.
u.
w. X. a. b. c. d. g. h. i. j. m. n. p. r.
FMX Automatic Transmission Diagnosis Guide
Extension Housing to Case Gaskets and Lockwashers Center Support Bolt Lockwashers Extension Housing Rear Oil Seal Perform Control Pressure Check Speedometer Driven Gear Adapter Seal Front Clutch Rear Clutch Leakage in Hydraulic System Front Pump Parking Linkage Planetary Assembly Planetary One-Way Clutch Engine Rear Oil Seal Front Pump Oil Seal Converter One-Way Clutch Front Pump to Case Gasket Rear Clutch Piston Air Bleed Valve
PART 7·3- F. M.X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION GOVERNOR I. Inspect the governor valves and bores for scores. Minor scores may be removed from the valves with crocus cloth. Replace the governor if the valves or body is deeply scored. 2. Check for free movement of the valves in the bores. The valves should slide freely of their own weight in the bores when dry. Inspect fluid passages in the valve body and counterweight for obstructions. All fluid passages must be clean.
3. Check the mating surface of the governor. valve and the counterweight for burrs or scratches. FRONT SERVO I. Inspect the servo bore for cracks and the piston bore and the servo piston stem for scores. Check fluid passages for obstructions. Replace seals that are damaged.
2. Check the actuating lever for free movement, and inspect it for
IJ
REAR SERVO I. Inspect the servo body for cracks and the piston bore for scores. 2. Check the fluid passages for obstructions. 3. Inspect the band and the struts for distortion . Inspect the band ends for cracks. 4. Inspect the servo spring for distortion. S. Inspect the band lining for excessive wear and bonding to the metal band.
6. Check the servo body to case mating surface for burrs. Check the
accumulator piston and the check valve for freedom of movement. Check the actuating lever socket for scores. 7. Replace seals that are damaged. CASE: Inspect the case for cracks and stripped threads. Inspect the gasket surfaces and mating surfaces for burrs. Check the vent for obstructions, and check all fluid passages for obstructions and leakages (Fig. 9). Inspect the case bushing for scores. Check all parking linkage parts for wear or damage. ONE:-W A Y CLUTCH I. Inspect the outer and inner races for scores or damaged surface area where the rollers contact the races. 2. Inspect the rollers and springs for excessive wear or damage. 3. Inspect the spring and roller case for bent or damaged spring retainers.
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION Figure 22 shows the location of the converter, front pump, clutches, bands, gear train and most of the internal parts used in the FMX Transmission. The identification tag (Fig. 23) on an F MX transmission is attached under the lower right-hand extension to case bolt. The tag includes the model prefix and suffix, assembly part number and the build date code. The tag must be kept with the individual transmission it was originally installed on. If the tag was removed during disassembly, reinstall it on the same unit. The FMX transmission is a three speed unit capable of providing automatic upshifts and downshifts through the three forward gear ratios, and also capable of providing manual selection of first and second gears. The transmission consists essentially of a torque converter, planetary gear train, two multiple disc clutches and a hydraulic control system (Fig. 24). OPERATION TORQUE: CONVERTER The
wear. If necessary to replace the actuating lever or shaft, remove the retaining pin and push the shaft out of the bracket. Inspect the adjusting screw threads and the threads in the lever for damage. 3. Check the servo spring and servo band strut(s) for distortion. 4. Inspect the cover seal and gasket cover sealing surface for defects.
7-95
hydraulic
torque
converter
(Fig. 25) consists of an impeller (pump), a turbine, and a stator. All these parts are enclosed and operate in a fluid-filled housing. When the engine is running, the fluid in the torque converter flows from the impeller to the turbine and back to the impeller through the stator. This flow produces a maximum torque increase of about 2 to I when the turbine is stalled. When enough torque is developed by the impeller, the turbine begins to rotate, turning the turbine shaft. The converter torque multiplication gradually tapers off as turbine speed approaches impeller speed, and it becomes I to I when the turbine is being driven at 9110 impeller speed. This is known as the coupling point. When the turbine is rotating at less than 9I 10 impeller speed, the converter is multiplying torque. The fluid leaving the turbine blades strikes the front face of the stator blades. These blades are held stationary by the action of a one-way clutch (Fig. 25) as long as the fluid is directed against the front face of the blades. When the turbine rotates faster than 9I I 0 impeller speed the converter no longer multiplies torque. The fluid is directed against the back face of the stator blades. As the one-way
clutch permits the stator to rotate only in the direction of impeller rotation, the stator begins to turn with the impeller and turbine. The converter operates as an efficient fluid coupling as long as the turbine speed remains greater than 9I 10 impeller speed. A constant flow of fluid into and out of the converter is maintained. Some of the fluid coming out of the converter is forced through a cooler located in the radiator tank. PLANETARY GEAR TRAIN, CLUTCHES, BANDS AND SERVOS
Planetary Gear Train The planetary gear train consists of a primary sun gear, secondary sun gear, primary and secondary pinions which are held in a common carrier, and an internal gear to which the transmission output shaft is attached (Fig. 26).
Front Clutch The front clutch drive plates (Fig. 27)are connected to the turbine shaft through the front clutch drum. The driven plates are connected to the
7-96
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION TURBINE
IMPELLER
DISTRIBUTOR SLEEVE
TRANSMISSION CASE
FRONT OIL SEAL
EXTENSION HOUSING SEAL
ONE · WAY CLUTCH
FLYWHEEL
D 1133-D
FIG. 22 -Typical FMX Transmission primary sun gear shaft. The front clutch is operated by fluid pressure against the clutch piston. The piston moves against a disc spring which acts as a lever to lock the drive and driven plates together. When the clutch is applied, the primary sun gear is locked to and driv- . en by the turbine shaft. The piston is returned to the release position by the disc spring when the fluid pressure is removed (Fig. 26). A check ball is installed in the front clutch piston to permit fluid exhaust, when the piston is in its released position. In neutral, the front clutch drum and steel plates are being driven while the composition plates are stationary. In reverse, the clutch is not applied, since the steel and composition plates must rotate in opposite directions .
clutch drive plates are splined to the front clutch drum and the driven plates are connected to the rear clutch drum and secondary sun gear. When the rear clutch is applied (in the reverse and third gear ratios) the secondary sun gear is driven. The piston is returned to the released position by the release spring (Fig. 27). In neutral, the rear clutch composition plates are being driven while the steel plates are free . In second gear, the composition plates are driven, but the steel plates are held stationary. In first gear, the composition plates are
driven clockwise at engine speed while the steel plates are driven counterclockwise. Front Band and Servo
One end of the front band, which encircles the rear clutch drum, is anchored to the transmission case, and the other end is connected to the front servo (Fig. 28). Fluid pressure moves the front servo piston against the inner end of the front servo actuating lever. Force is transmitted through a strut between the outer end of the lever and the end of the band to tighten the band around
Rear Clutch
The rear clutch (Fig.27) is operated by fluid pressure against the clutch piston. Movement of the piston compresses the release spring and locks the multiple-disc clutch. The rear
ENGINE DISPLACEMENT
FIG. 23 -
Identification Tags
BUILD DATE
SHIFT
PART 7-3- F. M . X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7-97
LOW REVERSE SERVO FORWARD CLUTCH
CHECK BALL USED IN PHD MODEL TRANSMISSIONS ONLY
LOW SERVO MODULATOR VALVE
CONVERTER
CONVERTER PRESSURE REGULATOR VALVE
~-~
COOLER RETURN OIL CHECK VALVE
X EXHAUST
FIG. 24- Hydraulic Control System
7-98
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
the rear clutch drum. Under certain conditions, the servo is released by directing fluid pressure to the opposite side of the piston, assisted by release spring force .
gear that uses the one-way clutch.
holding the secondary sun gear (Fig. 30).The primary pinions drive the secondary pinions, causing them to walk around the secondary sun gear and to carry the internal gear and output shaft around with them.
Power Row-Second Gear Second gear ratio is obtained by driving the primary sun gear and
Rear Band and Servo The rear band fits around the planetary gear drum . One end of the band contacts the end of the band adjusting screw, and the other end connects to the rear servo. POWER FLOWS Figure 29 lists the ratios obtained throught the various power flows .
Power Row-Neutral When the transmission 1S m neutral (Fig . 30), no gears are held or driven, and no power is transmitted to the output shaft.
Power Row-First Gear, Manual Low In first gear when the selector lever is at I, the primat.y sun gear is driven and the pinion carrier is held by the rear band (Fig.30). Power is transmitted to the primary pinions, the secondary pinions, and the internal gear, driving the internal gear in the same direction as the primary sun gear. The secondary sun gear turns free in the reverse direction and has no effect on the gear train .
01006-A
FIG. 26- Planetary Gear Train REAR CLUTCH DRUM
Power Flow-First Gear, D In first gear at the D selector lever position, the pinion carrier is held against rotation by the one-way clutch instead of by the rear band (Fig. 30). First gear in D is the only
D 113S-C
01007
DRIVE PLATES
FIG. 28- Typical Front Servo
-A
FIG. 27- Front and Rear Clutches
01004-A
FIG. 25- Sectional View of Typical Torque Converter
Gear
Selector Lever Position
Clutch AppUed
Band Applied
Gear Rado
Neutral
N
None
None
-
First
D or 1
Front
Rear
2.40:1
Second
D or2
Front
Front
1.47:1
Third
D
Front and Rear
None
1.00:1
Reverse
R
Rear
Rear
2.00:1
CDin first gear D, the planet carrier is held against rotation by the one-way clutch.
FIG. 29- Gear Ratios
7-99
PART 7-3- F. M. X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION Power Row-Third Gear In third gear, the primary and secondary sun gears are locked together and driven as a unit (Fig.30). Therefore, the pinions cannot rotate and the entire planetary train revolves as a unit, which causes the output shaft to rotate at the same speed as the turbine shaft.
Power Row-Park Position
Power Row-Revene Reverse gear is obtained by driving the secondary sun gear and holding the pinion carrier (Fig. 30)- The secondary pinions drive the internal gear in the reverse direction. The primary sun gear and the primary pinions rotate freely and have no effect on the gear train. REAR BAND
FRONT BAND
When the selector lever is in the P (park) position, the parking pawl engages the external teeth on the internal gear to lock the internal gear and output shaft to the case. This locks the rear wheels to prevent movement of the vehicle. REAR BAND APPLIED
FIRST GEAR I
NEUTRAL
FRONT BAND APPLIED
REAR BAND
FRONT BAND RELEASED PINION CARRIER OVERRUNNING ONE-WAY CLUTCH
ONE-WAY CLUTCH ENGAGED
FIRST GEAR D
REAR CLUTCH RELEASED
REAR CLUTCH RELEASED
SECOND GEAR REAR BAND APPLIED
REAR CLUTCH APPLIED
THIRD GEAR
FIG. 30 -Power Flow
REAR BAND RELEASED
-
POWER FLOW . . . ROTATION
REVERSE GEAR
FRONT BAND RELEASED 0 1136 - B
7-l 00 HYDRAULIC CONTROL FRONT PUMP
GROUP 7-AUTOMA TIC TRANSMISSION SYSTEM
The front pump (Fig. 24), driven by the converter impeller, delivers fluid pressure to the hydraulic control system whenever the engine runs. The pump delivers fluid pressure to the control pressure regulator and control valve body. A regulated control pressure is available at the control valve body whenever the engine is running. CONTROL PRESSURE AND COMPENSATOR PRESSURE
Control pressure is regulated by the spring-loaded control pressure regulator valve (Fig. 24). It is adjusted to engine torque, road speed, and selector lever position. To accomplish this, compensator pressure under various conditions is adjusted by throttle pressure (engine torque), governor pressure (road speed), or selector lever position . Compensator pressure, in turn, adjusts control pressure. CONVERTER PRESSURE
Like control pressure, converter pressure is regulated by the convertor pressure regulator valve spring and is adjusted to driving conditions by compensator pressure and selector lever positions. MANUAL VALVE
Line pressure is delivered to the manual valve through a single passage; the valve is positioned in the valve body b,y the manual linkage, according to the mode of operation desired. Fluid is distributed from the manual valve through the following passages (Fig. 24). l. D 2. D-2-1 3. 2-1-R-P 4. (Lower) 1-R-P 5. 1-R-P
The D passage supplies fluid to the downshift valve, and through the 1-2 shift shuttle ball check valve to the 1-2 shift valve . In addition, fluid is directed to the 2-3 shift orifice and through it to the 2-3 shift valve and to the bottom of the rear servo lock out valve. The D-2-1 passage directs apply fluid to the forward clutch, applying it, and to the upper end of the transition valve, to the governor valve and to the compensator cut back valve. The 2-1-R-P passage supplies fluid to the upper valley of the 1-2 shift valve, and passes through the 1-2 shift valve bore to the adjacent ends of the 1-2 shift accumulator and lock-out valves. The 1-R-P passage supplies fluid to the valley of the 2-1 scheduling valve, and through the 1-2 shift shuttle ball check valve to the 1-2 shift valve. The R passage supplies fluid to the left valley of the throttle valve and to the upper valley of the 2-3 shift valve. THROTTLE PRESSURE
Throttle pressure adjusts the transmission operation to engine torque. Throttle pressure is produced from control pressure by the throttle valve. The throttle valve is controlled by a spnng-loaded vacuum diaphragm unit mounted on the rear of the transmission case (Fig. 24). The vacuum diaphragm is actuated by the engine intake manifold vacuum working against spring pressure. When the vacuum is higher than 16 inches the diaphragm moves against spring pressure and moves the push rod away from the throttle valve to cut off the throttle pressure regulation. As the engine throttle is advanced, manifold vacuum will fall below 16 inches. As the vacuum drops, the spring-loaded d-iaphragm moves the push rod to open the throttle valve and increase the throttle pressure.
6. R 7. Exhaust The D passage is charged in D range only . The D-2-1 passage is charged in Drive range, manual Second gear (2 range) and manual low gear (I range). The 2-1-R-P passages are charged in 2, I, Reverse range and Park. The 1-R-P passages are charged in I, Reverse and Park. The R passage is charged in R range only .
THROTTLE PRESSURE BOOST VALVE
To compensate for the slight manifold vacuum changes with throttle movements beyond about 50 degrees carburetor valve opening, a throttle pressure boost valve comes into operation. At 51 psi throttle pressure, the spring-loaded boost valve(Fig. 24) comes into balance. Throttle pressure below 5 I psi cannot move the boost
valve against spring force plus throttle pressure force acting at the boost valve plug. Below 51 psi, therefore, throttle pressure will flow through the boost valve without interference. Throttle pressure above 51 psi will move the boost valve to the left (Fig. 24). This movement will first cut off throttle pressure flow to the shift valves and the coasting control valve, and it will then open a passage to permit the new boosted throttle pressure to flow to the shift valves and the coasting control valve. Throttle pressure will continue to work against the right end of the boost valve. For each pound of increase in throttle pressure (above 51 psi), the boosted throttle pressure will increase about three pounds. GOVERNOR PRESSURE Governor pressure is produced from front clutch control pressure by the valve in the governor body which rotates at output shaft speed . The governor valve is a balanced valve. It is balanced between centrifugal force acting on the governor valve plus governor spring force and governor pressure force (Fig. 24).Governor pressure is, therefore, proportion alto road speed. TRANSITION VALVE
The transition valve controls the front servo apply pressure flow. In the D range, the transition valve blocks front servo apply pressure flow until the 1-2 valve is closed by governor pressure. In the 2 range, the transition valve permits front servo apply pressure to flow through it all all times. The spring modifies the action of the valve to improve the quality of the manual 1 ~2 upshift. 1-2 SHIFT VALVE
The 1-2 shift valve controls the 1-2 upshift in the D range . On the 2-1 downshift, either manual (shift to I) or kickdown, the 1-2 shift valve controls the shift only within the road speed range permitted by the inhibitor valve. The 1-2 valve is held in its rest (open) position by a spring. It is closed by governor pressure. Under various driving conditions, governor pressure is opposed by spring force plus reduced throttle and reduced boosted throttle pressures, and control pressure.
PART 7-3- F. M.X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION REAR SERVO LOCKOUT VALVE The six passages that connect to the rear servo lockout valve are pressurized as follows: 1. Rear Clutch Apply Pressure 2. Exhaust 3. Rear Servo Apply Pressure 4. 1-R·P Pressure From Manual Valve 5. Rear Servo Apply Pressure 6. D Pressure From Manual Valve When the transmission is operating in D range, line pressure from the manual valve is directed through the 2-lshift orifice ball check valve to the bottom of the rear servo lockout valve; this pressure holds the valve in the upward position against the force of front clutch apply pressure and spring effort at the top of the valve. While the valve is in this position, line pressure from the D passage of the manual valve is prevented from pressurizing the rear servo apply circuit. When the selector lever is in the R position, R fluid from the manual valve is directed through the 2-3 shift valve to the area differential at the lower valley of the rear servo lockout valve; the force resulting from this pressure assists the spring in keeping the valve downward in its bore, so that servo apply pressure can pass through the bore and pressurize the servo apply circuit. THROTTLE REDUCING VALVE Before throttle pressure or boosted throttle pressure is admitted to the front face of the 2·3 shift valve, plug and 1-2 shift valve, it must open a passage past the spring-loaded throttle reducing valve. Approximately 20 psi throttle pressure is required to move the valve against its spring far enough to open the passage. Once past the valve, throttle pressure will work on the spring end of the valve and exert a force to cut off throttle pressure flow past the valve. In this case, the valve becomes a balanced valve, wherein the valve is balanced between throttle pressure force on the one end and spring force plus throttle pressure force on the other end. The pressure past the valve will, there£ ore, be reduced. 2-3 SHIFT VALVE The 2-3 shift valve controls the
2-3 upshift and the 3-2 downshift. The valve is held in its rest (closed) position by springs. It is opened by governor pressure. Under various driving conditions, governor pressure is opposed by spring force plus throttle or boosted throttle pressures, and control pressure. INHIBITOR VALVE The inhibitor valve prevents a 2-1 downshift, either manual or kickdown, at excessive road speeds . The inhibitor valve is held in its rest (open) position by a spring. It is closed by governor pressure . Under various driving conditions, governor pressure is opposed by spring force plus control pressure. 1-2 SHIFT ACCUMULATOR AND LOCKOUT VALVES Four passages connect to the bore of the 1-2 shift accumulator and lockout valves ; from left to right the first passage is connected to direct-reverse clutch apply pressure through the 3-2 kickdown control valve and its orifice; the second is connected to the release side of the intermediate servo, the third is connected . to the upper valley of the 1-2 shift valve and the fourth is connected directly to direct-reverse clutch apply pressure. The 1-2 shift accumulator and lockout va lves control the quality of the 1-2 shift by regulating the servo apply force as follows : To make a complete servo application, apply pressure must stroke the servo piston against the force of the release spring, and at the same time force out the fluid in the release side of the servo. Fluid from the release side of the servo unseats the check ball to bypass the intermediate servo release orifice and is then routed to the valley of the 1-2 shift accumulator valve. As pressure builds up in the apply side of the servo causing the servo piston to stroke toward the apply position, a similiar pressure build-up is transmitted through the piston to the release circuit and acts on the area differential of the 1-2 shift accumulator valve ; this will force the valve to the left against its spring until the left-hand passage is uncovered, allowing the fluid in the release side of the servo to escape to exhaust at the manual valve. In this way servo a pply force is reduced to the required level by regulating a back pressure on the release side of the servo. When the transmission upshifts to
7-101
high gear, direct and reverse clutch apply pressure is routed to the righthand passage behind the 1-2 shift accumulator lockout va lve, a nd through the check valve and 3-2 kickdown control valve to the valley of the 1-2 shift accumulator valve ; the entire shift accumulator and lockout valve train moves to the left a nd is held there insuring that the release sid e of the intermediate servo will be pressurized whenever the transmiss ion is in high gear. In addition, should the accelerator pedal be depressed to force a kickdown into second gea r, the shift accumulator va lve will remain to the left so that clutch a pply/ servo release fluid ca n flow without obstruction to the 3-2 kickdown control valve, where the exha ust of this fluid is controlled . When the transmission selector lever is moved from D to 2 or I to provide engine braking, line pressure from the 2-1 - R-P passage is directed through the 1-2 shift valve to the third port of the 1-2 shift accumulator valve at the end adjacent to the lockout valve. The force produced by this pressure acting on the end of the valves moves the valve to the left, keeping it in that position. This insures that servo release pressure will be quickly exhausted through the direct and reverse clutch circuit, permitting an immediate band application. DOWNSHIFT VALVE Three passages intersect the bore of the downshift valve. The left-hand passage is vented to exhaust ; the middle passage is connected to the adjacent ends of the 2-3 throttle reducing valve and 2-3 shift delay valves and to the inhibitor valve. The third passage of the downshift valve is connected to the D passage of the manual valve. When the car is in intermediate or high gears (G:ive range) and the accelerator pedal is floored, to force the downshift valve in against spring force, the '!?.lvc seals off the exhaust port and rcat.:s line pressure from the manual valve to the inhibitor valve and to the adjacent ends of the 2-3 throttle reducing. valve and 2-3 shift delay valve, tending to move the 2-3 shift valve upward in its bore. If the force due to governor pressure acting on the area differential at the lower valley of the 2-3 shift valve is sufficiently low the valve will move upward and the transmission will engage second gear. At the same time, downshift pressure is directed from the
7-102
GROUP 7-AUTOMA TIC TRANSMISSION
2-3 shift valve to the bottom of the 1-2 shift valve, where it tends to force a downshift into low gear. 3-2 DOWNSHIFT CONTROL VALVE The 3-2 downshift control valve operates in the front servo release pressure passage between the 2-3 valve and the front servo . A check valve is installed parallel with the downshift valve in the same passage so that release pressure flow to the servo by-passes it. The downshift valve controls the rate of front servo release pressure exhaust (flow from the servo), and thereby the rate of front band application. The 3-2 downshift control valve: eliminates the possibility of a run-· away condition in the transmission during a 3-2 kickdown at low car speed (about 25 mph). It also eliminates the possibility of a tie-up during the same shift at higher speeds (50 mph and more) . 2-1 SCHEDULING VALVE Four ports intersect the 2-1 scheduling valve bore. From left to right, the first port is vented to exhaust, the second is connected to the spring end of the inhibitor valve through the inhibitor shuttle ball check valve, the third is connected to the 1-R-P passage of the manual valve and the right-hand port is vented to exhaust. When the selector lever is moved to I to force a downshift from high or intermediate gear to low, 1-R-P fluid pressure is directed to the third port of the 2-1 scheduling valve. The force due to line pressure acting on the differential area moves the valve to the left, compressing the spring. As the valve moves to the left it seals off the line pressure port and uncovers the exhaust passage at the left end of the valve, allowing some of the fluid in the differential pocket to escape to exhaust. The loss of pressure in the differential pocket allows the spring to force the valve back to the right, where it is again charged with line pressure. The pressure resulting from the regulating cycle is routed to the spring end of the inhibitor valve, where it assists the inhibitor valve spring in tending to force the valve upward against the force due to governor pressure acting on top of the valve. If vehicle speed and resulting governor pressure on the upper end of the inhibitor valve is low enough the
downward force on the valve will be less than the upward effort resulting from spring force plus 2-1 scheduling pressure on the bottom of the valve and the inhibitor valve will move up in its bore, opening the necessary passages to permit a downshift into low gear. 2-3 SHIIT ORIFICE BYPASS BALL CHECK VALVE Line pressure from the D passage of the manual valve is directed through the 2-3 shift orifice to the 2-3 shift valve. When the 2-3 shift valve moves downward in its bore, directing D fluid from the 2-3 shift orifice into the direct and reverse clutch apply circuit, the 2-3 shift orifice check ball seats on the bypass hole, causing the clutch apply pressure to be orificed. However when the transmission selector lever is moved to 2 to force a downshift to second gear, the check ball unseats from the bypass hole, allowing direct and reverse clutch apply pressure to exhaust at the manual valve without further obstruction. 1-2 SHIIT VALVE SHUTTLE BALL CHECK VALVE Fluid is directed from the D and 1-R-P passages of the manual valve to the lower valley of the 1-2 shift valve. When the D passage is pressurized the 1-R-P passage is open to exhaust at the manual valve, and vice versa. Therefore a shuttle ball check valve is provided in the line connecting to the lower valley of the 1-2 shift v.elve. When the transmission is operaaung in D range the shuttle ball seals off the 1-R-P passage, preventing D pressure from exhausting at the manual valve. Similarly, when the transmission is in I, 2 or P ranges the shuttle ball seals off the D passage, preventing the loss of 1-R-P fluid at the manual valve. INHIBITOR VALVE SHUTTLE BALL CHECK VALVE The spring end of the inhibitor valve is pressurized at various times by the following pressures: I. D fluid and 1-R-P fluid from 1-2 shift circuit shuttle ball check . 2. 2-1 scheduling pressure from 2-1 scheduling valve. A shuttle ball check valve is provided in the passage connecting to the spring end of the inhibitor valve. When
pressure from the 1-2 shift valve shuttle ball check is directed to the inhibi· tor valve, the inhibitor valve shuttle ball check seals off the passage to the 2-1 scheduling valve, preventing loss of pressure through the 2-1 scheduling valve. Similarly when 2-1 scheduling pressure is present, the shuttle ball seals off the passage connecting to the 1-2 shift valve shuttle ball check . HYDRAULIC CONTROL SYSTEM-NEUTRAL The manual valve at N selector 'lever position blocks the fluid flow to both clutches and both bands (Fig. 24). With no fluid pressure in the clutches or servos, the clutches and bands are released by spring pressure, preventing power being transmitted to the transmission output shaft. Neutral operation of the transmission keeps control pressure up to its proper value, maintains a full torque converter, lubricates the transmission, and maintains a flow of fluid through the cooling system. HYDRAULIC CONTROL SYSTEM-D, FIRST GEAR When the selector lever is moved from N to D, the manual valve opens three passages to control pressure. From left to right, the first passage admits control pressure to supply the 2-3 valve and close the rear servo lockout valve . The second passage admits control pressure to apply the front clutch and supply the governor and transition valve. The third passage admits control pressure to flow through the 1-2 and inhibitor valves and close the transition valve. With the front clutch applied, .the primary sun gear tries to drive the pinion carrier in a counterclockwise direction . Counterclockwise rotation at the pinion carrier is prevented by the one-way clutch . With the front clutch applied and the pinion carrier held, the transmission is in first gear. HYDRAULIC CONTROL SYSTEM-D, SECOND GEAR The 1-2 shift occurs when governor pressure force on the 1-2 shift valve overcomes shift plug pressure and spring forces . The 1-2 valve moves inward, exhausting the fluid which holds the transition valve closed. The transition valve opens and admits control pressure to apply the front band . The front clutch remains on, and
PART 7-3-F. M . X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION the front band applies to put the transmission in second gear.
HYDRAULIC CONTROL SYSTEM-D, THIRD GEAR The 2-3 shift occurs when governor pressure force overcomes spring and shift plug pressure force at the 2-3 shift valve. When the shift valve opens, control pressure flows through it to apply the rear clutch and release the front band. With both clutches applied, the transmission is in third gear.
HYDRAULIC CONTROL SYSTEM-l, SECOND GEAR When the manual valve is at the 2 selector lever position, control pressure to the 1-2 shift valve is cut off. This condition permits control pressure to flow through the transition valve to apply the front band. With the front clutch and the front band applied, the transmission operates in second gear.
HYDRAULIC CONTROL SYSTEM-D RANGE, 3-l KICKDOWN
II
When the accelerator pedal is depressed through the detent, the downshift valve opens a passage that admits control pressure behind the 2-3 shift plug to oppose governor pressure. If the transmission is in high and road speed is below 47-69 mph, the 2-3 valve will be forced closed against governor pressure . When the 2-3 valve closes, control pressure which has been applying the rear clutch and releasing the front band is exhausted. The apply pressure that was in the front servo in third gear is now free to apply the front band. As soon as the front band applies, the transmission is in second gear.
HYDRAULIC CONTROL SYSTEM-I, FIRST GEAR In I range, first gear, control pressure is directed by the manual valve to apply the front clutch and rear band . Control pressure is also directed by the manual valve to lock the 1-2 and 2-3 shift valves in their closed positions. Since neither shift valve can move, the transmission will stay in first gear regardless of throttle position or road speed .
7-103
HYDRAULIC CONTROL SYSTEM-REVERSE When the manual valve is shifted into reverse, control pressure is directed to apply the rear clutch and rear band. Governor supply pressure is cut off by the manual valve ; hence, the transmission cannot shift automatically . Rear clutch pressure is also directed to the throttle valve to regulate throttle pressure to obtain the correct line pressure for the reverse circuit.
OIL COOLING AND LUBRICA liNG SYSTEM Figure I shows the transmiss ion series cooling circuit. The converter out circuit is directed through the oil cooler, then the cooled oil is used in the transmission lubricating circuit. A spring-loaded check valve is used in the circuit to maintain approxim ately 3-5 psi in the converter out circuit. When the converter out circuit exceeds 3-5 psi, the check ball opens against spring pressure and cooled oil is directed to lubricate the various parts of the transmission gear train .
IN-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
CONTROL LINKAGE ADJUSTMENTS The transmission control linkage adjustments should be performed in the order in which they appear in this section of the manual.
THROTTLE AND DOWNSHIFT LINKAGE ADJUSTMENTS Adjusting the throttle linkage ·is important to be certain the throttle and kickdown systems are properly adjusted. The kickdown system should come in when the accelerator is pressed through detent, and not before detent. Refer to Group 10 for detailed throttle and downshift linkage adjustment procedures.
MANUAL LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT I. Position the transmission selector lever in D position . l. Raise the vehicle and loosen the manual lever shift rod retaining nut
(Fig. 31). Move the transmission manual lever to the D position, fourth detent position from the back of the transmission . 3. With the transmission selector lever a nd manual lever in the D positions, torque the attaching nut 10 to 20 ft-lbs . 4. Check the operation of the transmission in each selector lever position.
INHIBITOR SWITCH ADJUSTMENT Select 'D? Connect test lamp leads across terminals 1 and 3 and terminals 2 and 4. Slacken the locknut and screw the switch inward until the lamp goes out. Note the switch position. Continue screwing in the switch until the lamp lights, and again note the switch position. Screw out the switch until it is midway between the two positions, and then tighten the locknut. Check that the lamp only lights when the selector lever is at 'P', 'R' and 'N'. NEUTRAL START SWITCH REPLACEMENT FROM UNDER THE VEHICLE 1. Remove the wires from the
inhibiter switch terminals. 2. Loosen the locknut and remove the switch from its mounting bracket. TO ASSEMBLE Assemble the switch to the mounting bracket and adjust , as outlined under "INHIBITER SWITCH ADJUSTMENT".
GEAR SHIFT LINKAGE See Group 3 Section 3-4 page 3- 38 . Selector Lever Removal and Replacement. 1. Raise the vehicle and remove the manual lever control rod (Fig. 31 ). 2. Lower the vehicle, remove the selector lever handle attaching screw and remove the handle (Fig. 31). 3. Prise the dial from the bezel to gain access to the bezel attaching screws and remove the bezel. 4. Remove the two console attaching screws at the front of the console and the screw in the glove box. Remove the console. 5. Disconnect the dial indicator light. 6. Remove the attaching nuts and
7-104
GROUP 7-AUTOMATlC TRANSMISSION
FIG. 31- Selector Linkage- Floor Shift screws and remove the console support and gear lever slide assembly. 7. Remove the selector housing and lever assembly attaching bolts and remove the selector lever and housing. 8. Remove the selector lever to housing attaching nut. Remove the lever from the housing. 9. Install the selector lever in the housing and install the attaching nut. Torque the nut to 20 to 25 ft. lbs. 10. Install the dial indicator light. 11. Install the selector lever handle. 12. Position the selector as shown in Fig. 80. With a feeler gauge check the clearance between the detent pawl and plate. The clearance should be 0.005 to 0.010 inches. If necessary adjust the height of the detent pawl as shown in Fig. 74.
13. Remove the handle from the selector lever. 14. Install the selector lever housing and lever assembly as shown in Fig. 33. Torque the attaching bolts to 4--6 lbs. ft. 15. Install the console support and gear lever slide assembly. 16. Refit the dial indicator light. 17. Replace the console. 18. Refit the indicator dial bezel and refit the dial. 19. Install the selector lever handle and tighten the attaching screw. 20. Position the selector lever in the N position. 21. Raise the vehicle. Install the transmission manual lever rod to the selector lever. With the transmission in neutral and the selector lever against the neutral stop, tighten the selector lever to manual lever rod nut. 22. Lower the vehicle and check the transmission operation in each
ACTUATING LEVER
·'>.•
0 2048 -A
FIG. 32 Typical
Adiusting Front Band
FIG. 33 Typical
Adiusting Rear Band
selector lever detent position. BAND ADJUSTMENTS FRONT BAND ADJUSTMENT I. Drain the fluid from the transmission by loosening the pan attaching bolts starting at the rear of the pan and working toward the front. When most of the fluid has drained from the pan, remove the remainder of the attaching bolts. Use a clean drain can equipped with a 100-mesh screen if the fluid is to be reused . 2. Remove the pan, then remove the fluid filter and cli_p from the transmission. Clean the inside of the pan. Remove all gasket material from the pan and pan mounting face of the case. 3. Loosen the front servo adjusting screw lock nut. 4. Pull back on the actuating rod, and insert the I /4 inch spacer between the adjusting screw and servo piston stem (Fig . 32). Tighten the adjusting screw to 10 in-lbs. torque . Remove the spacer and tighten the adjusting screw an additional 3/4 turn. Hold the adjusting screw stationary and tighten the lock nut securely. 5. Install the transmission fluid screen and clip . Install the pan using a new gasket. 6. Refill the transmission to the FULL mark on the dipstick. 7. Start the engine and engage the transmission in each drive range to fill
PART 7-3- F. M. X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION all fluid passages, then place the selector lever in the P position . Check the fluid level and add enough fluid to bring the level above the ADD mark on the dipstick . REAR BAND ADJUSTMENT-
Adjustment of the rear band is performed externally. 1. Remove all dirt from the adjusting screw threads, then oil the threads. 2. Loosen the adjusting screw locknut. 3. Using a torque wrench and adaptor, tighten the adjusting screw to a torque of 10 ft.-lbs.
output shaft and rear support from moving rearward to prevent the needle bearing and race from dropping out of location. 12. Remove the governor to counterweight attaching screws. Lift the governor from the counterweight (Fig.
34). 13. Lubricate the governor valve parts with clean transmission fluid. Make certain that the valve moves freely in the valve body bore. 14. Position the governor valve body on the counterweight with the cover facing toward the front of the vehicle. Install and tighten the two attaching screws to the specified torque .
4. If the screw is found to be tighter than 10 ft.-lbs. torque, loosen the screw and then tighten to 10 ft.-lbs. torque. 5. Back off the adjusting screw 1t turns. Hold the adjusting screw stationary and tighten the adjusting screw lock nut to specification. Severe damage may result if the adjusting screw is not backed off exactly 1% turns. EXTENSION HOUSING AND GOVERNOR REPLACEMENT 1. Raise the vehicle so that the transmission extension housing is accessible . 2. Drain the fluid from the transmission. 3. Disconnect the drive shaft from the rear a xle and slide the front yoke out of the extension housing. 4. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing. 5. Remove the two bolts that secure the extension housing to the engine rear support. 6. Remove the nut and bolt that secures the engine rear support to the crossmember. 7. Raise the transmission high enough to provide clearance for the rear mount. 8. Lift the engine rear support from the crossmember. 9. Lower the jack until the extension housing just clears the crossmember to remove all weight from the housing. 10. Loosen the parking brake cable adj ustment nut enough to disconnect the cables from the equalizer. 11. Remove the extension housing a ttaching bolts. Slide the housing off the output shaft and remove the gasket. When removing the extension housing and / or governor, hold the
D 1815 · A
FIG. 34- Governor Installed COMPEN SATOR PRE SSU RE TUBE
7-105
15. Position a new extension housing gasket on the rear of the transm ission case. 16. Shde the extension housing into place and secure it to the transmission case with the attaching · bolts. Torque the bolts to specification. With the extension housing installed, rotate the output shaft. The shaft must rotate freely by hand. If the shaft is tight or bound up, it is likely that the needle bearing and race have dropped out of location, in which case, the transmission must be partially disassembled and the bearing and race repositioned. 17. Connect the speedometer cable to the extension housing . 18. Raise the transmission high enough with a jack to position the engine rear support on the crossmember. Secure the support to the crossmember with attaching bolt. 19. Lower the transmission and remove the jack. Secure the extension housing to the rear support with the two attaching bolts. 20. Connect the p a rking br a ke cables to the equalizer and adjust the cables as required . 21. Install the driveshaft. 22. Fill the transmission to the correct level with the specified fluid .
OIL PAN AND CONTROL VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT 1. Raise the ve hide so that the MAIN CONTROL VALVE TUBE
VACUUM DIAPHR ACM
RE TAINING CLI P
FRONT SERVO
REAR SER VO
FIG. 35- Typical Hydraulic Control System
D 18 17 · A
7-106
GROUP 7-
transm1sswn fluid pan is accessible . 2. Drain the fluid from the transmission by loosening the pan attaching bolts starting at the rear of the pan and working toward the front. When most of the fluid has drained from the pan, remove the remainder of the attaching bolts. Remove the pan and gasket. Discard the gasket. If the same fluid is to be used again in the transmission, filter the fluid through a 100-mesh screen before installing it in the transmission. Re-use the fluid only if it is in good condition. 3. Disconnect the hose from the vacuum diaphragm unit. Remove the diaphragm unit using tool FC0-24. Do not use any tools on the diaphragm housing, such as pliers, pipe wrenches, etc. Do not allow solvents to enter the diaphragm unit. Remove the push rod . Remove the fluid screen retaining clip and the screen. 4. Remove the fluid filter retaining clip and the filter . S. Remove the small compensator pressure tube . Remove the main pressure oil tube by gently prying up the end that connects to the main control valve assembly first. Then, remove the other end of the tube from the pressure regulator. Be sure to remove the tube in this manner. Failure to do so, could kink or bend the tube causing excessive transmission internal leakage. 6. Loosen the front servo attaching bolts three turns. 7. Remove the three control vaive body attaching bolts, and lower the valve body while pulling it off the front servo tubes. Be careful not to damage the 'alve body or the tubes. 8 . Before installing the control valve body, check for a bent manual valve by rolling it on a flat surface. 9. Install the control valve body by aligning the front servo tubes with the holes in the valve body. Shift the manual lever to the I detent, and place the inner downshift lever between the downshift lever stop and the downshift valve . The manual valve must engage the actuating pin in the manual detent lever. 10. Install but do not tighten, the control valve body attaching bolts. 1). Move the control valve body toward the center of the case until the clearance is less than 0.050 inch, between the manual valve and the actuating pin on the manual detent lever. 12. Torque the attaching bolts to specification. Be sure that the rear fluid filter retaining clip is installed
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
under the valve .body bolt as shown in Figure 35. 13. Install the main pressure oil tube. Be sure to Install the end of the tube that connects to the pressure regulator first. Then, install the other end of the tube into the main control valve assembly by tapping it gently with a soft hammer. Install the compensator pressure tube to the pressure regulator and the control valve body. 14. Turn the manual valve one full turn in each manual lever detent position . If the manual valve binds against the actuating pin in any detent position, loosen the valve body attaching bolts and move the body away from the center of the case . Move the valve body only enough to relieve the binding. Torque the attaching bolts and recheck the manual valve for binding. IS. Position the push rod in the bore of the vacuum diaphragm unit. Using the diaphragm unit as a guide, insert the push rod into the threaded opening of the case . Torque the diaphragm unit to specification . Connect the vacuum hose. 16. Torque the front servo attaching bolts to specification .
17. Adjust the front band. 18. Install the fluid filter and the filter retaining clip. 19. Position a new fluid pan gasket on the bottom of the transmission case, and install the pan . Torque the pan screws to specification.
' 20. Adjust the rear band. 2 I. Fill the transmission with fluid. If the fluid that was drained from the transmission is to . be used again, filter the fluid through a 100-mesh screen as it is poured back into the transmission. Re-use the fluid only if it is in good condition. 22. If the control valve body was replaced, adjust the transmission control linkage.
PRESSURE REGULA TOR REPLACEMENT I. Drain the fluid from the transmission, and remove the pan and fluid filter . 2. Remove the small compensator pressure tube and the large control pressure tube from the control valve body and the pressure regulator. Remove the main pressure oil tube by gently prying up the end that connects to the main control valve assembly first. Then remove the other end of the tube from the pressure regulator . Be sure to remove
the tube in this manner. Failure to do so, could kink or bend the tube caus. ing excessive transmission internal leakage. 3. Remove the pressure regulator spring retainer, springs, and spacer. Maintain pressure on the retainer to prevent the springs from flying out. 4. Remove the pressure regulator attaching bolts and washers, and remove the regulator. S. Position the replacement regulator body on the transmission case and install the two attaching bolts. Torque the bolts to specification. 6. Check the converter pressure and control pressure valves to be sure the valves operate freely in the bores. 7. Install the valve springs, spacer, and retainer. 8. Install the main pressure oil tube. Be sure to install the end of the tube that connects to the pressure regulator assembly first. Then, install the other end of the tube into the main control assembly by tapping it gently with ·a soft hammer. Install the small compensator pressure tube. 9. Install the fluid filter and the pan, and fill the transmission to the correct level with the specified fluid .
FRONT SERVO REPLACEMENT I. Drain the fluid from the transmission, and remove the pan and fluid filter. 2. Remove the vacuum diaphragm unit. 3. Loosen the three control valve body attaching bolts. 4. Remove the attaching bolts from the front servo (Fig. 35), hold the strut with the fingers, and remove the servo. 5. To install the front servo, position the front band forward in the case with the end of the band facing downward. Make sure the front servo anchor pin is in position in the case web . Align the large end of the servo strut with the servo actuating lever, and align the small end with the band end . 6. Rotate the band, strut, and servo to align the anchor end of the band with the anchor in the case. Push the servo body onto the control valve body tubes. 7. Install the attaching bolts and torque to specification . 8. Torque the control valve body attaching bolts to specification .
Check the clearance between the
PART 7-3- F. M. X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7-107
5. Before installing a new seal, inspect the sealing surface of the universal joint yoke for scores. If scores are found, replace the yoke. 6. Inspect the counterbore of the housing for burrs. Polish off all burrs with crocus cloth. 7. Install the seal into the housing with tool shown in Fig. 39. The seal should be firmly seated in the bore.
PARKING PAWL REPLACEMENT
FIG. 36 -Removing Extension Housing Seal manual valve and manual lever actuating pin as given in Oil Pan and Control Valve Body Replacement. 9. Adjust the front band . 10. Install the vacuum diaphragm unit and rod . II. Install the fluid filter and pan, and fill the transmission with fluid. 12. Adjust the downshift and manual linkage .
REAR SERVO REPLACEMENT I, Drain the fluid from the transmission, and remove the pan and fluid filter. 2. Remove the vacuum diaphragm unit. 3. Remove the control valve body and the two front servo tubes. 4. Remove the attaching bolts from the rear servo, hold the actuating and anchor struts with the fingers, and remove the servo. 5. To install the rear servo, position the servo anchor strut on the servo band, and rotate the band to engage the strut. 6. Hold the servo anchor strut in position with the fingers, position the actuating lever strut, and install the servo.
7. Install but do not tighten the servo attaching bolts. The longer bolt must be installed in the inner bolt hole. IJ. Move the rear servo (with reasonable force) toward the centerline of the transmission case, against the servo attaching bolts. While holding the servo in this position, torque the attaching bolts to specification. 9. Install the two front servo tubes and the control valve body. Check the clearance between the manual valve and the manual lever actuating pin as given above in Oil Pan and Control Valve Body Replacement. 10. Adjust the rear band. 11. Install the fluid filter and pan,
and fill the transmission with fluid .
IXTINSION HOUSING BUSHING AND lEAR SEAL IIEPI.ACEMENT I. Disconnect the drive shaft from the transmission. 2. Carefully remove the seal with the tools shown in Fig. 36. 3. Remove the bushing as shown jn Fig. 37. Use the bushing remover carefully so that the spline seal is not damaged. 4. Wben installing a new bushing use the special tool shown in Fig. 38.
01025-1
FIG. 37- Removing Extension Housing Bushing
EXTENSION HOUSING
01026-1
FIG. 38 -Installing Extension Housing Bushing
1. Raise the vehicle and drain .the fluid from the transmission. 2. Place the adjustable support stand under the rear of the engine. 3. Remove the driveshaft.
4. Disconnect the parking brake cables from the equalizer bracket. 5. Remove the engine rear support-to-extension housing bolts. 6. Remove the bolt that secures the engine rear support to the crossmember. Raise the engine with the adjustable support stand just high enough to provide clearance for removing the support. 7. Lower the jack until the extension housing just clears the crossmember to remove all weight from the housing. 8. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the transmission . 9. Remove the transmission pan and fluid filter .
10. Loosen the rear band adjusting screw lock nut and tighten the adjusting screw to 24 in.-lbs torque. This will tighten the rear band around the planet carrier and will hold the planet carrier and clutch assemblies in position during the parking pawl repair operation. 11. Remove the small compensator pressure tube from the pressure regulator and control valve body. 12. Remove the main pressure oil tube by gently prying up the end that connects to the main control valve assembly first. Then, remove the other
EXTENSION HOUSING
REAR SEAl
FIG. 39 -Installing Extension Housing Seal
7-108
GROUP 7-AUTOMA TIC TRANSMISSION
end of the tube from the pressure regulator. Be sure to remove the tube in this manner. Failure to do so, could kink or bend the tube causing exces.. sive transmission internal leakage. 13. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the vacuum diaphragm and remove the vacuum diaphragm and control rod . 14. Loosen the front servo attaching bolts. 15. Remove the three control valve body attaching bolts and lower the valve body while pulling it off the front servo tubes. Be careful not to damage the vahe body or the tubes. 16. Remove the rear servo attaching bolts and remove the rear servo and struts. 17. Remove the extension housing attaching bolts and housing. 18. Remove the output shaft and rear support assembly. 19. Remove the parking pawl pin from the case with a magnet. 20. Working from inside of the case, drive on the shoulder of the toggle lever (Fig. 69) pin with a small punch to move the retaining plug part way out of the case . Remove the plug with a pair of pliers. 21. To remove the toggle lever pin,
II
slide the toggle lever toward the front of the case. Cock the lever to one side to apply pressure on the pin, then move the toggle to the rear of the case to move the pin outward. Repeat this procedure until the pin can be removed from the case. Lift the pawl and toggle from the case as an assembly. 22. Remove the pawl and toggle lever as an assembly. 23. Position the new parking pawl and link assembly, then install the toggle lever pin and the plug. 24. Secure the pawl to the case with the pawl pin. 25. Position a new gasket on the front of the support and at the rear. Hold them in place with transmission fluid or vaseline. 26. Make sure that the thrust washer is in place, then position the support and output shaft in place making sure that the pressure tubes are entered in the case. 27. Secure the extension housing to the case with the attaching bolts. 28. Install the rear servo and strut as outlined under Rear Servo Removal and Installation. 29. Install the main control valve assembly as outlined under Oil Pan
and Control Valve Body Removal and Installation . 30. Torque the front servo attaching bolts to specification. 31. Install the main pressure oil tube and the small compensator pressure tube to the control valve body and pressure regulator . 32. Adjust the front band.
33. Adjust the rear band. 34. Position the vacuum control rod in the case. Install the vacuum diaphragm unit. Connect the vacuum hose. 35. Install the fi Iter, transmissior. pan and a new gasket. 36. Connect the speedometer cable to the extension housing. 37. Raise the transmission high enough to position the engine rear support on the crossmember. Secure the support with the attaching bolt. 38. Lower the transmission and remove the jack. Install the two extension housing-to-engine rear support attaching bolts. 39. Connect the parking brake cables to the equalizer. 40. Install the driveshaft, then lower the vehicle. 41. Fill the transmission to the correct level with the specified fluid.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
TRANSMISSION AND CONVERTER REPLACEMENTREMOVAL I. Raise the vehicle and remove the cover from the front of the converter housing. Drain the fluid from the transmission. 2. Remove one of the converter drain plugs. Then, rotate the converter 180 degrees and remove the other plug. Do not attempt to turn the converter with a wrench on the converter stud nuts. 3. When the fluid has stopped draining from the transmission and converter, remove the four flywheelto-converter nuts. Install the drain plugs in the converter and torque to specification. Install the converter housing front plate to hold th(' converter in place when the transmission is removed . 4. Disconnect the starter cables from the starter and remove the starter. 5. Remove the nuts that attach each muffler inlet pipe to the exhaust manifolds. Separate the pipes from
the manifolds and allow them to hang. 6. Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the transmission . 7. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the vacuum diaphragm unit. 8. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing, and remove the drive shaft. 9. Disconnect the manual and downshift linkage from the transmission.
10. Disconnect the parking brake cables from the equalizer bracket. Remove the two rear support-tocrossmember nuts. Position a transmission jack under the transmission and secure the transmission to the jack with a safety chain. Raise the transmission just enough to remove the weight from the crossmember. Remove the two crossmember-to-frame side support bolts and nuts and remove the crossmember. Lower the transmission and remove the bolt that secures the transJruSSlon fluid filler tube to the cylinder head. Lift the filler tube and the dip-stick from the transmission case.
Remove the six converter housingto-cylinder block attaching bolts. Move the jack rearward until the transmission clears the engine, then tip it forward to provide clearance. Lower the transmission and remove it from under the vehicle. INSTALLATION I. If the converter has been removed from the converter housing, carefully position the converter in the housing and install the housing lower front cover to prevent the converter from slipping out of the housing. 2. Rotate the converter until the studs adjacent to the drain plugs are in a vertical position. Rotate the flywheel as required to align the drain plug holes with the drain plugs in the converter. 3. Roll the transmission into position under the vehicle and raise it to align with the engine. Remove the housing lower front cover that was previously installed. Move the transmission forward until the converter housing contacts the cylinder block.
Install and torque the converter housing to cylinder block attaching bolts.
PART 7-3- F. M.X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION 4. Remove the jack safety chain from the transmission. 5. Install a new 0-ring on the lower end of the filler tube. Dip the 0-ring in clean automatic transmission fluid and insert the filler tube in the transmission case. 6. Connect the two oil cooler lines to the transmission case. 7. Position the crossmember to the frame side supports and install and tighten the attaching bolts and nuts to specification. 8. Remove the transmission jack from under the vehicle. Install and
II
torque the rear support-to-crossmember nuts. 9. Install the converter-to-flywheel attaching nuts and torque them to specification. 10. Secure the converter drain plug access cover to the lower end of the converter housing with the attaching bolts. 11. Install the starter and torque the attaching bolts to specification. Connect the starter cables. 12. Install and tighten the filler tube to cylinder head bolt. 13. Install the drive shaft.
7-109
14. Connect the speedometer cable to the extension housing. 15. Install the linkage rods on the transmission downshift and manual control levers.
16. Connect the parking brake cables to the equalizer bracket. 17. Connect the vacuum hose to the vacuum diaphragm unit. 18. Connect the exhaust inlet pipes to the manifolds. 19. Lower the vehicle. Fill the transmission to the proper level with the specified fluid. Adjust the manual and downshift linkage.
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS
DISASSEMBLY OF TRANSMISSION I. Before removing any of the transmission ~sub-assemblies, thoroughly clean the outside of the transmission case to prevent dirt from getting inside the mechanism. 2. After the transmission has been removed from the vehicle, place the assembly in the transmission holder shown in Fig. 40. 3. Remove the transmission pan, gasket, and filter retainer clip. 4. Lift the filter from the case. 5. Remove the spring scat from the pressure regulator. Maintain constant pressure on the seal to prevent distortion of the spring seat and the sudden release of the springs. Remove the pressure regulator springs and pilots, but do not remove the valves. 6. Remove the small compensator pressure tube from the pressure regulator and the control valve body. Remove the main pressure oil tube by gently prying up the end that connects to the main control valve assembly first. Then, remove the other end of the tube from the pressure regulator. Be sure to remove the tube in this manner. Failure to do so, could kink or bend the tube causing excessive transmission internal leakage. 7. Loosen the front and rear servo band adjusting screws five turns. Loosen the front servo attaching bolts three turns. 8. Remove the vacuum diaphragm unit and push rod. 9. Remove the control valve body attaching bolts. Align the levers to permit removal of the valve body. Then lift the valve body clear of the transmission case . Pull the body off the servo tubes and remove it from the
FIG.40 -Transmission Mounted in Holding Fixture case . 10. Remove the regulator from the case. Keep the control pressure valve and the converter pressure regulator valve in the pressure regulator to avoid damage to the valves. II. Remove the front servo apply and release tubes by twisting and pulling at the same time. Remove the front servo attaching bolts. Hold the front servo strut with the fingers, and lift the servo from the case. 12. Remove the rear servo attaching bolts. Hold the actuating and anchor struts with the fingers, and lift the servo from the case. TRANSMISSION END PLAY CHECK I. Remove one of the front pump attaching bolts. Mount the dial indicator support tool 77067 in the front pump bolt hole. Mount a dial indicator on the support so that the contact rests on the end of the turbine shaft. 2. Install the extension housing seal replacer on the output shaft to provide
support for the shaft. 3. Pry the front clutch cylinder to the rear of the transmission with a large screwdriver. Set the dial indicator at zero while maintaining a slight pressure on the screwdriver. 4. Remove the screwdriver and pry the units toward the front of the transmission by inserting the screwdriver between the large internal gear and the transmission case. 5. Record the indicator reading for use during transmission assembly. End play should be 0.010-0.029 inch (minimum end play is preferred). If end play is not within specifications a new selective thrust washer must be used when the transmission is assembled. 6. Remove the indicator support, and, then remove the seal replacer from the output shaft. REMOVAL OF CASE AND EXTENSION HOUSING PARTS I. Remove the rematntng front pump attaching bolts. Then remove
GROUP 7- AUTOMATIC
7-ll 0
TRANSMISSION
FRONT BAND
01957-A
FIG. 43- Removing or Installing Input Shaft and Clutch OUTPUT SHAFT
D 1819-A
FIG. 41 - Rear Support and Output Shaft Installed the front pump and gasket. If necessary, tap the screw bosses with a softfaced hammer to loosen the pump from the case. 2. Remove the lubrication tube from the case. Remove the five transmission to extension housing bolts. These bolts also attach the rear support to the case. Remove the extension housing. 3. Remove the output shaft assembly (Fig. 41). To facilitate output shaft removal, insert a screwdriver between the output shaft ring gear and pinion carrier and pry the output shaft rearward. Be careful not to bend t,he pressure tubes between the rear support or distributor sleeve and case as the tubes are removed from the case. 4. Remove the four seal rings from the output shaft with the fingers to prevent breaking the rings. 5. Remove the governor snap ring from the output shaft. Using a soft
faced hammer, tap the governor assembly off the output shaft. Remove the governor drive ball (Fig. 42). 6. Remove the rear support and gasket from the output shaft. Remove the needle bearings and race from the rear support (Fig. 42). 7. Remove the selective thrust washer from the rear of the pinion carrier. 8. Remove the pinion carrier. 9. Remove the primary sun gear rear thrust bearing and races from the pinion carrier. 10. Note the rear band position for reference in assembly. The end of the band next to the adjusting screw has a depression (dimple) in the center of the boss. Squeeze the ends of the rear band together, tilt the band to the rear. and remove the rear band from the case. II. Remove the two center support outer bolts (one each side) from the transmission case . 12. Exert enoug'h pressure on the end of the input shaft to hold the clutch units together. Then remove the center support and the front and rear clutch assemblies as a unit (Fig. 43). IJ. Install the clutch assemblies in SNAP RING
SEAL RINGS
6
OUTPUT SHAFT
GOVERNOR
GOVERNOR D~!IVE BALL
NEEDL ROLLER B6ARING
D 1820-A
FIG. 42- Output Shaft Disassembled
FIG. 44 -Input Shaft and Clutch in Holding Fixture the bench fixture (fig. 44). 14. Remove the thrust washer from the front of the input shaft. 15. To remove the front band, position the band ends between the case webbing and tilt the bottom of the band rearward. Then, squeeze the ends of the band together and remove from the rear of the case. 16. Lift the front clutch assembly from the primary sun gear shaft. 17. Remove the bronze and the steel thrust washers from the rear clutch assembly. Wire the thrust washers together to assure correct installation. 18. Remove the front clutch seal rings from the primary sun gear shaft. 19. Lift the rear clutch assembly from the primary sun gear shaft. 20. Remove the rear clutch seal rings from the primary sun gear shaft. Do not break the seal rings. 21. Remove the primary sun gear front thrust washer.
PARTS REPAIR AND REPLACEMENT During the repair of the subassemblies, certain general instructions which apply to all units of the transmission must be followed. These instructions are given here to avoid unnecessary repetition. Handle all transmission parts carefully to avoid nicking or burring the bearing or mating surfaces. Lubricate all internal parts of the transmission with transmission fluid before assembly. Do not use any other lubricants except on gaskets and thrust washers which may be coated with vaseline to facilitate assembly. Always install new gaskets when as-
PART 7-3- F. M.X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7- 111
_'lliifl,_ CLUTCH PISTON CLUTCH 02038- A
FIG. 48 -Installing Rear Clutch Piston INSTALLATION
D 1751. A
FIG. 45- Replacing Rear Brake Drum Support Bushing sembling parts of the transmission. Tighten all bolts and screws to the recommended torque. For detail cleaning and inspection operations refer to Section 3.
REAR BRAKE DRUM SUPPORT BUSHING REPLACEMENT
t. If the rear brake drum support bushing is to be replaced, press the bushing from the support as shown in Fig. 45. 2. Press a new bushing into the brake drum support with the tool shown in Fig. 45. OUTPUT SHAFT BUSHING REPLACEMENT
t. Remove the output shaft bushing if it is worn or damaged. Use the cape Press Rom
chisel and cut along the bushing seam until the chisel breaks through the bushing wall. Pry the loose ends of the bushing up with an awl and remove the bushing . 2. Insert a new bushing into the installation tool and position the tool and bushing over the output shaft hub . Then, press the bushing on the output shaft hub as shown in Fig. 46.
PRIMARY SUN GEAR SHAFT I. Position the primary sun gear shaft in the clutch bench fixture . 2. Check the fit of the seal rings in their respective bores. If equipped with cast iron seal rings, a clearance of 0.002-0.009 inch should exist between the ends of the rings. If equipped with teflon seals that are worn or damaged, cut the seals from the shaft with a sharp knife . He careful not to score the ring grooves.
3. Replace the teflon seals with cast iron seal rings, and check for free movement in the groove .
REAR CLUTCH I. Remove the clutch pressure plate snap ring, and remove the pressure plate from the drum . Remove the waved cushion spring . Remove the composition and steel plates. 2. Compress the spring with the tools shown in Fig . 47 and remove the snap ring . 3. Guide the spring retainer while releasing the pressure to prevent the retainer from locking in the snap ring grooves. 4. Position the primary sun gear shaft in the rear clutch. Place an air hose nozzle in one of the holes in the shaft, and place one finger over the other hole . Then force the clutch piston out of the clutch drum with air pressure . Hold one hand over the piston to prevent damage. 5. Remove the inner and outer seal rings from the clutch piston .
Tool- T64L.7003.A7 Tool- T 65 l· 77515 ·A
REAR CLUTCH DRUM FIG. 46 -Installing Output Shaft FIG. 47- Removing Rear Clutch Spring Snap Ring Bushing
D 1592-A
7-112
GROUP 7- AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
0 1746- A
FIG. 49- Removing Rear Clutch Sun Gear Bushing 6. Remove the rear clutch sun gear bushing if it is worn or damaged . Use the cape chisel (Fig. 49) and cut along the bushing seam until the chisel breaks through the bushing wall. Pry the loose ends of the bushing up with an awl and remove the bushing. 7. Press a new .bushing into the rear clutch sun gear with the tool shown in Fig . 50. 8. Install new inner and outer seal rings on the piston . 9. To install the piston in the clutch drum, lubricate the piston seals and tools (Fig . 48) with clean transmission fluid . 10. Push the small fixture down over the cylinder hub . 11. Insert the piston into the large fixture with the seal toward the thinwalled end. 12. Hold the piston and large fixture and insert as a unit into the cylinder. Push down over the small fixture until the large tool stops Tool- T64L-7003-A3 OR Tool- T64L-7003-A4
against the shoulder in the cylinder; then push the piston down, out of the tool, until it bottoms in the cylinder. Remove the tools. 13. Install the clutch release spring, and position the retainer on the spring. 14. Install the tool on the spring retainer as shown in Fig. 47. Compress the clutch spring, and install the snap ring. While compressing the spring, guide the retainer to avoid interference of the retainer with the snap ring groove. Make sure the snap ring is fully seated in the groove. When new composition clutch plates are used, soak the plates in automatic transmission fluid for 15 minutes before they are assembled. 15. Install a steel clutch plate and the waved cushion spring. Then, install steel and friction plates alternately starting with a steel plate. 16. Install the clutch pressure plate with the bearing surface down. Then install the clutch pressure plate snap ring. Make sure the snap ring is fully seated in the groove. 17. Check the free pack clearance between the pressure plate and the snap ring with a feeler gauge . The clearance should be 0.030-0.055 inch. If the clearance is not within specifications, selective snap rings are available in the following thicknesses : 0.060-0.064, 0 .074-0.078, 0 .088-0.092 and 0. 102-0.106 inch . Insert the correct size snap ring and recheck the clearance. 18. Install the thrust washer on the primary sun gear shaft. Lubricate all parts with automatic transmission fluid or petroleum jelly. Install the two center seal rings. 19. Install the rear clutch on the primary sun gear shaft. Be sure all of the needles are in the hub if the unit is equipped with loose needle bearings. Assemble two seal rings in the front grooves. 20. Install the steel and the bronze thrust washers on the front of the secondary sun gear assembly. If the steel washer is chamfered, place the chamfered side down.
D 2049·A
FIG. 51 - Removing or Installing Front Clutch Snap Ring 3. Remove the composition and the steel clutch plates, and then remove the pressure plate from the clutch drum. 4. Place the front clutch spring compressor on the release spring, position the clutch drum on the bed of an arbor press, and compress the release spring with the arbor press until the release spring snap ring can be removed (Fig. 51). 5. Remove the clutch release spring from the clutch drum. 6. Install the special nozzle shown in Fig . 52 on an air hose. Place the nozzle against the clutch apply hole in the front clutch housing, and force the piston out of the housing. 7. Remove the piston inner seal from the clutch housing. Remove the piston outer seal from the groove in the piston. 8. Remove the input shaft bushing if it is worn or da maged . Use the cape
FRONT CLUTCH
FIG. 50 -Installing Rear Clutch Sun Gear Bushing
1. Remove the clutch cover snap ring with a screwdriver, and remove the input shaft from the clutch drum . 2. Remove the thrust washer from the thrust surface of the clutch hub. Insert one finger in the clutch hub, and lift the hub straight up to remove the hub from the clutch drum.
01959 -A
FIG. 52 Piston
Removing Front Clutch
PART
7-3-
F. M.X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
D 1752. A
FIG. 53 -Installing Input Shaft FIG. 55 -Installing Pressure Plate Bushing chisel and cut along the bushing seam until the chisel breaks through the bushing wall. Pry the loose ends of the bushing up with an' awl and remove the bushing. 9. Slip a new bushing over the end of the installation tool and position the tool and bushing to the bushing hole . Then, press the bushing into the input shaft as shown in Fig. 53. 10. Lubricate all parts with transmission fluid . Install a new piston inner seal ring in the clutch cylinder. Install a new piston outer seal in the groove in the piston . II. I.nstall the piston in the clutch housing. Make sure the steel bearing ring is in place on the piston. 12. Position the release spring in the clutch cylinder with the concave side up. Place the release spring compressor on the spring, and compress the spring with an arbor press. Then
FIG. 56 -Installing Clutch Plates
D 1047-B
FIG. 57- Front Pump Disassembled
REMOVAL
FIG. 54 -Installing Clutch Hub
7-113
install the snap ring as shown in Fig. 51. Make sure the snap ring is fully seated in the groove. 13. Install the front clutch housing on the primary sun gear shaft by rotating the clutch units to mesh the rear clutch plates with the serrations on the clutch hub. Do not break the seal rings. 14. Install the clutch hub in the clutch cylinder with the deep counterbar down (Fig. 54). Install the thrust washer on the clutch hub. 15. Install the pressure plate in the clutch cylinder with the bearing surface up (Fig . 55). Install the composition and the steel clutch plates alternately, starting with a composition plate (Fig. 56). Lubricate the plates as they are installed. The final friction plate to be installed is selective. Install the thickest plate that will be a minimum of 0.010 inch below input shaft shoulder in cylinder. For all other plates, use the thinnest available. Refer to the Specifications Section for available plate thickness. 16. Install the turbine shaft in the clutch cylinder, and then install the snap ring. Make sure the snap ring is fully seated in the groo1·e. 17. Install the thrust washer on the turbine shaft. FRONT PUMP I. Remove the stator support attaching screws and remove the stator support. Mark the top surface of the pump driven gear with Prussian blue to assure correct assembly. Do not scratch the pump gears. 2. Remove the drive and driven gears from the pump body.
INSTALLATION
FIG. 58- Replacing Front Pump Housing Bushing
0 1748- A
7-114
GROUP 7-AUTOMA TIC TRANSMISSION
3. Refer to Fig. 57 for a disassembled view of the front pump. Inspect the pump body housing, gear pockets and crescent for scores. 4. If the pump housing bushing is to be replaced, press the bushing from the front housing with the tools shown in Fig. 58. 5. Press a new bushing into the pump housing with the handle and tool shown in Fig. 58. 6. If any parts other than the stator support or bushings are found defective, replace the pump as a unit. Minor burrs and scores may be removed with crocus cloth . The stator support is serviced separately. 7. Bolt the front pump to the transmission case with capscrews. 8. Install the oii seal remover shown in Fig . 59. Then pull the front 1ooi- 1501-!00-A
seal from the pump body . 9. Clean the pump body counterbore. Then inspect the bore for rough spots. Smooth up the counterbore with crocus cloth. 10. Remove the pump body from the transmission case. 11. Coat the outer diameter of a new seal with FoM oCo Sealing Compound, or its equivalent. Then position the seal in the pump body. Drive the seal into the pump body with the tool shown in Fig. 60 until the seal is firmly seated in the body. Toel 77837 may be reworked (fig_ 61) to install the latest type seal. 12. Place the pump driven gear in the pump body with the mark on the gear facing down . Install the drive gear in the pump body with the chamfered side of the flats facing down . 13. Install the stator support and attaching screws. Check the pump gears for free rotation . REAR SUPPORT BUSHING REPLACEMENT I. Remove the three pressure tubes from the support housing.
FIG. 59- Removing Front Pump Seal
To ol - T64L-7003-A2
Hondic
~
D2050-A liii~=:iiiiiir'~01963-A FIG. 60 -Installing Front Pump Seal
FIG. 62 -Installing Rear Support Housing Bushing
2. Remove the rear support bushing if it is worn or damaged. Use a cape chisel and cut along the bushing seam until the chisel breah through the bushing wall. Pry the loose ends of the bushing up with an awl and remove tlie bushing. 3. Press a new bushing into the support housing with the tool shown in Fig . 62. 4. Install the pressure tubes. PRESSURE REGULATOR I. Remove the valves from the regulator body . 2. Remove the regulator body cover attachin~ screws, and remove the cover (Fig. 63). 3. Remove the separator plate . 4. Wash all parts thoroughly in clean solvent and blow dry with moisture-free compressed air. 5. Inspect the regulator body and cover mating surfaces for burrs. 6. Check all fluid passages for obstructions. 7. Inspect the control pressure and converter pressure valves and bores for burrs and scores. Remove all burrs carefully with crocus cloth. 8. Check the free movement of the valve in their bores. Each valve should fall freely into its bore when both the valve and bore are dry . 9. Inspect the valve springs for distortion . 10. Position the separator plate on the regul a tor cover. 11. Position the regulator cover and separator plate on the regulator body, and install the attaching screws. Torque the screws to specification. 12. Insert the valves in the pressure regulator body (Fig. 63). CONTROL VALVE BODY During the disassembly of the control valve assembly, avoid damage to valve parts and keep the valve parts clean . Place the valve assembly on a clean shop towel while performing the disassembly operation. Do not sepa-
01964-A FIG. 61 - Front Pump Seal lnstallin9 Tool Modification
FIG. 63 -Pressure Regulator Disassembled
7-l·
PART
7-115
F. M . X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
SIDE PLATE
2·3 SHIFT DELAY VAL VE
2·3 DELAY AND THROTTLE REDUCING VALVE SLEEVE
~
END
\
.
(:?
PLATE /
\
-----
I1
THROTTLE REDUCING VALVE
~~
--
~~~~~
"'
-'
/r/CDMPENSATDR ::E......_........_ AND PLUG ........
Qj ~
~
0-.~ ~
THROTTLE BOOST VALVE
' ~>
'-.......
-'".
\..-...,
~
COMPENSATOR VALVE
\
)
........
~ MANUAL /VALVE
~'~ ' ' '\. ~ '!? 1
'\\
........
_/DDWNSHIFTVALVE
0 THROTTLE BOOST SHORT VALVE AND SLEEVE
-
/ ........ -
__..
SPRING RETAINER
\ . \ - 2·1 SCHEDULING
-cw
VALVE
~ ·• ~ ~
/
1
~ -..--UPPER BODY ~~~~ \.·•.,:Jj?'~
COMPENSATOR - - - C U T-BACK VALVE
~
'
/ ·
,.- - - P L U G THROTTLE -------<~ VALVE . ~
FIG. 64- Control Valve Disassembled
7-116
GROUP 7- AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
rate the upper and lower valve bodies and co~er until after the ~alves ha~e been re mo~ed.
Disassembly 1. Remove the manual valve (Fig.
64). 2. Remove the throttle valve body and the separator plate. Be careful not to lose the check valve when removing the separator plate from the valve body. Remove the throttle valve and plug. 3. Remove one screw attaching the separator plate to the lower valve body. Remove the upper body front plate . The plate is spring-loaded. Apply pressure to the plate while removing the attaching screws. 4. Remove the compensator sleeve and plug, and remove the compensator valve springs. Remove the comP.ensator valve. ' 5. Remove the throttle boost short valve and sleeve. Remove the throttle boost valve spring and valve. 6. Remove the downshift valve and spring. Remove the 2-1 scheduling valve retainer from the valve body and remove the spring and valve. 7. Remove the upper valve body rear pia te. 8. Remove the compensator cut back valve. 9. Remove the lower body side plate (Fig. 64). The plate is springloaded. Apply pressure to the plate while removing the attaching screws. 10. Remove the 1-2 shift valve and spring. Remove the inhibitor valve and spring. 11. Remove the two screws attaching the separator plate to the cover. Remove the lower body end plate. The end plate is spring-loaded. Apply pressure to the plate while removing the attaching screws. 12. Remove the low servo lockout valve, low servo modulator valve and spring. 13. Remove the 2-3 delay and throttle reducing valve sleeve, the throttle reducing valve, spring, and the 2-3 shift delay valve. Remove the 2-3 shift valve spring and valve. 14. Remove the transition valve spring and valve. 15. Remove the plate (Fig. 64) from the valve body cover. 16. Remove the check ball spring and check ball. Remove the 3-2 kickdown control valve spring and valve. 17. Remove the 1-2 shift accumulator valve spring retainer from the cover. Remove the spring, 1-2 shift accumulator valve and 1-2 shift accumulator lockout valve .
CHECK VA L VE
D 2051·A
FIG. 65- Check Valve Locations 18. Remove the through bolts and screws. Then, separate the bodies. Remove the separator plates from the valve bodies and cover. Be careful not to lose the check valves.
Assembly l. Arrange all parts in their correct positions (Fig. 64). Rotate the valves and plugs when inserting them in their bores to avoid shea ring of soft body castings . 2. Place the check valve in the upper body as shown in Fig. 65. Then, position the separator plate on the body. 3. Position the lower body · on the upper body, and start but do not tighten the attaching screws. 4. Place the check valve in the cover (Fig. 65) and position the cover and separator plate on the lower body. Start the four through bolts. 5. Align the separator with the upper and lower valve body attaching bolt holes. Install and torque the four valve body bolts to specification. Excessive tightening of these bolts may distort the valve bodies, causing ~alves or plugs to stick. 6. Install the 3-2 kickdown control valve and spring and the check ball and spring in the cover. Install the
plate. 7. Insert the 1-2 shift accumulator lockout valve, 1-J shift accumulator valve, and spring in the cover. Install the valve spring retainer. 8. Install the transition valve and spring in the lower body. 9. Install the 2-3 shift valve and spring. Install the 2-3 shift delay valve and the spring and throttle reducing valve in the sleeve . Slidt the sleeve and valve into position in the lower body. 10. Install the low servo lockout valve spring. Install the low servo modulator and low servo lockout valves. Install the lower body end plate. 11. Install the inhibitor valve spring and valve in the lower body . 12. Install the 1-2 shift valve spring and valve. Install the lower body side plate. 13. Install the compensator cutback valve in the upper body. Install the upper body rear plate. 14. Install the 2-1 scheduling valve, spring, and spring retainer in the body. Install the downshift valve spring and valve. 15. Install the throttle boost valve and spring. Install the throttle boost short valve and sleeve. 16. Install the compensator valve,
PART 7-~ F. M.X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION inner and outer compensator springs, and the compensator sleeve and plug. 17. Position the front plate. Apply pressure to the plate while installing the two attaching screws. 1~. Install the throttle valve, plug and check valve in the throttle valve body. Position the separator on the upper body and install the throttle valve body. Install the three attaching screws. 19. Install four screws attaching the cover to the lower body, two screws attaching the separator plate to the upper body, and one screw attaching the separator plate to lower body. Torque the cover and body screws to specitica tion. 20. Install the manual valve. GOVERNOR I. Remove the governor valve body
4. Install the governor valve and spring assembly in the bore of the valve body. Install the sleeve, and plug. 5. Install the body on the counterweight. Make sure the fluid passages in the body and ·the counterweight are aligned. 6. Position the valve body cover on the body, and install the screws. FRONT SERVO
1. Remove the servo piston retainer snap ring (Fig. 67). The servo piston is spring-loaded. Apply pressure to the piston when removing the snap ring. 2. Remove the servo piston retainer and servo piston from the servo body. It may be necessary to tap the piston stem lightly with a soft-faced hammer to separate the piston retainer from the servo body. 3. Remove all the seal rings, and remove the spring from the servo body.
VALVE BODY
~VALVE
RETAINING
----'~CLIP
"''"' '"'"' ____.\\~ PLUG___., D1966·A
FIG. 66 -Governor Disassembled
4. Inspect the servo body for cracks and the piston bore and the servo piston stem for scores (Fig. 67). Check fluid passages for obstructions. 5. Check the actuating lever for free movement, and inspect it for wear. If it is necessary to replace the actuating lever shaft. remove the retaining pin and push the shaft out of the bracket. If the shaft is not retained by a pin, it is retained in the body by serrations on one end of the shaft. These serrations cause a press fit at that end . To remove the shaft, press on the end opposite the serrations. Inspect the adjusting screw threads and the threads in the lever. 6. Check the servo spring and servo band strut for distortion.
BODY
lOCK WASHER
ADJUSTING SCREW
PIN _ _
I!ETURN PISTON
FIG. 67- Front Servo- Disassembled
0
SHAFT-
D114S·C
7-117
7. Inspect the servo band lining for excessive wear and bonding to the metal. The band should be replaced if worn to a point where the grooves are not clearly evident. 8. Inspect the band ends for cracks and check the band for distortion. 9. Lubricate all parts of the front servo with transmission fluid to facilitate assembly.
10. Install the 0-ring on the piston retainer. Install new 0-rings on the servo piston. 11. Position the servo piston release spring in the servo body. Install the servo piston and retainer in the servo body as an assembly. Compress the assembly into the body, and secure it with the snap ring. Make sure the snap ring is fully seated in the groove. 12. Install the adjusting screw and locknut in the actuating lever if they were previously removed. REAR SERVO I. Remove the servo actuating lever shaft retaining pin with a I /8-inch punch . Remove the shaft and actuating lever needle bearings and thrust washers. 2. Press down on the servo spring retainer, and remove the snap ring. Release the pressure on the retainer slowly to prevent the spring from flying out.
3. Remove the retainer and servo spring (Fig. 68). 4. Force the piston out of the servo body with air pressure. Hold one hand over the piston to prevent damage . 5. Remove the accumulator piston from the servo piston. 6. Remove the piston seal ring. 7. Install a new seal ring on the servo piston . 8. Install the accumulator piston in the servo piston . 9. Install the piston in the servo body. Lubricate the parts to facilitate assembly. Install the servo spring with the small coiled end against the servo piston. 10. Install the spring retainer. Compress the spring with a C-clamp. Then install the snap ring. The snap ring must be fully seated in the groove. II. Install the needle bearings in the actuating lever. Install the actuating lever and thrust washers with the socket in the lever bearing on the piston stem. Install the actuating lever shaft, aligning the retaining pin holes, and install the pin.
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7-118
SERVO
SHAFT
stall the assembly in the transmission case by installing the pawl pin and the toggle lever pin . Install the torsion lever assembly. Position the spring on the torsion lever with a screwdriver. Make certain that the short side of toggle does not extend beyond the largest diameter of the ball or the toggle lever pin (Fig. 69). Tap the toggle lever in or out as necessary to center the toggle lever on the ball. 4. Install the manual lever and shaft in the transmission case. Position the detent lever on the shaft, and secure it with a nut. Tighten the nut to 20-30 ft-lbs torque . Rotate the manual lever to the rear of the case. Position the detent spring in the case. Hold the detent plug on the spring with a 3f 16-inch socket wrench, then depress the spring until the plug is flush with the case. Carefully rotate the manual lever to the front of the case to secure the pl11g. A piece of thin walled tubing may be used to depress the plug if a small socket
BODY
PIN
CHECK VALVE SPRING ACCUMULATOR PISTON
SERVO PISTON
SPRING RETAINER SNAP RING D 1821 - A
FIG. 68- Re•r Servo- Dis•uembled 12. Check the actuating lever for free movement . TRANSMISSION CASE LINKAGE REPAIR
Disassembly I. Remove the inner downshift lever shaft nut (Fig. 69). Then remove the inner downshift lever. 2. Remove the outer downshift lever and shaft. Remove the downshift shaft seal from the counterbore in the manual lever shaft. 3. Remove the cotter pin from the parking pawl toggle operating rod and remove the clip from the parking pawl operating lever. Remove the parking pawl operating rod . 4. Rotate the manual shaft until the detent lever clears the detent plunger. Then remove the detent plunger and spring. Do not allow the detent plunger to fly out of the case. 5. Remove the manual lever shaft nut, and remove the detent lever. Remove the outer manual lever and shaft from the transmission case. 6. Tap the toggle lever sharply toward the rear of the case to remove the plug and pin. 7. Remove the pawl pin by working the pawl back and forth . Remove the pawl and toggle lever assembly, and then disassemble . 8. Remove the manual shaft seal and case vent tube . Remove the oil cooler return check valve from the back of the case .
with the pawl link pin, washer, and pawl return spring. Assemble the toggle lever to the link with the toggle link pin. Position the pawl return spring over the toggle link pin, and secure it in place with the washer and the small retainer clip (Fig. 69). In-
b, ,
,/:t::·
DOWNSHIFT SHAFT SEAL....,_
i(~ 1.., .. TORSION
-
(,
"'
ff:'• LEVE~.-=-,~4C
, , . , , PIN
DO~~~HI~~~AFT
II
DETENT SPRINGYETENT PLUNGER DETEN'r MANUAL SHAFT NUT / LEVER '-' INNER DOWNSHIFT LEVER
MANUAL SHAFT AND LEVER
' . V ·~,.
.I
,
DOWNSHIFT )I'SHAFT NUT TOGGLE LIFT
I lf(t'JJC
-
LEVER SPRING
a,/'
r ~ · ~ __ ' ,.TORSION LEVER~@~ PAWL
s::~u~L ~<~~''" .
--~~~~~~ 1 LIN;A:
"- -
TOGGLE
~~LINK
Lif~~~~~R
~
PIN
PIN
~ ~
LEVER~ - ~~ ~ ~ SPRING~~~
PAWL RETURN TOGGLE LEVER
PIN~"'''J?
\LINK PLUG~ RETAINER
(i PAWL
01967-A
FIG. 69- Transmission Case Control Linkage
Aaembly I. Coat the outer diameter of a new manual shaft seal with sealer, then install the seal in the case witli a driver. 2. Install the vent tube in the transmission case. 3. Assembly the link to the pawl
REMOVAL
INSTALLATION
FIG. 70- Replacing Transmission Case Bushing
D 1745-8
7-119
PART 7-3- F. M.X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION wrench is not available. 5. Position the ends of the ·parking pawl operating rod in the detent lever and toggle lift lever, and secure with the two small retaining pins. 6. Install a new seal on the downsh ift lever shaft, then install the lever and shaft in the case . Position the inner downshift lever on the inner end of the shaft with the mark 0 facing toward the center of the case. Install the lock washer and nut, then tighten the nut to 17-20 ft-lbs torque . 7. Check the operation of the linkage. The linkage should operate freely without binding. TRANSMISSION CASE BUSHING REPLACEMENT I. If the transmission case bushing is to be replaced, press the bushing out of the case with the tools shown in Fig. 70. 2. Install a new transmission case bushing with the tool shown in Fig. 70.
Installation -Center Support With Chamfered Edge I. Install the center support and the rear band in the case. 2. Install the primary sun gear rear thrust bearing race, needle bearing, and front thrust bearing race if used in the planet carrier using petroleum jelly to retain them in place. 3. Lubricate the bearing surface on the center support, the rollers of the planetary clutch, and the cam race in the carrier with petroleum jelly (Fig . 71). 4. Install the planetary clutch in the carrier (Fig. 72). 5. Carefully position the planet carrier on the center support. Move the carrier forward until the clutch rollers are felt to contact the bearing surface of the center support.
6. While applying forward pressure on the planet carrier, rotate it counterclockwise, as viewed from the rear (Fig. 72). This will cause the clutch rollers to roll toward the large opening end of the cams in the race, compressing the spring slightly, so that the rollers will ride up the chamfer on the planetary support a nd onto the inner race . 7. Push the planet carrier all the way forward . 8. Check the operation of the planetary clutch by rotating the carrier counterclockwise. It should rotate counterclockwise (viewed from the rear) with a slight drag, and it should lock up when attempting to rotate it in a clockwise dir::ction. 9. Install the selective thrust washer on the pinion carrier rear pilot. If the end play was not within specifications
CENTER SUPPORT
" CAM TYPE "" CLUTCH RACE
ASSEMBLY OF TRANSMISSION Do not use force to assemble mating parts. If the parts do not assemble freely, examine them for the cause of the difficulty. Always use new gaskets and seals during the assembly operations. CLUTCH ASSEMBLIES
CHAMFER ON PRODUCTION PART, ONLY-SERVICE PART NOT CHAMFERED
PLANET CARRIER 01938-A
FIG. 71 -Planetary Clutch, Planet Carrier and Center Support I. Install the front band in the transmission case so that the anchor end is aligned with the anchor in the case . 2. Make sure the thrust washer is in place on the input shaft. Lift the clutch assemblies out of the holding block . Do not allow the clutches to separate. 3. Install the clutch sub-assemblies in the transmission case while positioning the servo band on the drum. Hold the units together while installing them (Fig. 43).
CENTER SUPPORT, ONE-WAY CLUTCH, PINION CARRIER, AND OUTPUT SHAFT The production center supports are chamfered at the edge of the race (Fig. 71). The service center supports are not chamfered . The following assembly procedures cover both types of center supports.
D 1292-C
FIG. 72 -Planetary Clutch Installation in Carrier- Chamfered Center Support
7-120
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
when checked prior to disassembly, replace the washer with one of proper thickness. Refer to the Specification Section of Group 7 for selective thrust washer thickness. 10. Install the output shaft, carefully meshing the internal gear with the pinions.
CENTER
Installation-Center Support not Chamfered
I. Install the center support and the rear band in the case. 2. Install the primary sun gear, rear thrust bearing race, needle bearing and front thrust bearing race if used in the planet carrier using petroleum jelly to retain them in place. 3. Lubricate the bearing surface of the center support, the rollers of the planetary clutch, and the cam race in the carrier with vaseline . 4. Install the planetary clutch on the center support with the saw teeth of the clutch cage pointing in the clockwise direction as viewed from the rear (Fig. 73). Make sure that all rollers are in the cage. S. Position the planet carrier on the support so that the cams in the carrier engage the saw teeth on the clutch cage. 6. Push the planet carrier forward until the rollers are felt to contact the surface of the cam race. 7. While applying forward pressure on the carrier, rotate it counterclockwise as viewed from the rear. This will cause the rollers to roll toward the large opening end of the cams in the race, compressing the springs slightly, so that the rollers will enter the cams. 8. Some rollers may become cocked preventing their entry into the outer race. These rollers must be positioned individually with a small screwdriver by. pushing the rear of the rollers toward the transmission and into the cam race (Fig. 73). Keep pressure applied to the carrier at all times. 9. After all of the rollers have been started into the cam race, rotate the carrier counterclockwise while pushing it forward. Again, straighten any rollers which still may be in a cocked position and prevent the carrier from sliding onto the support. 10. Make sure that all springs are entered in the cam race before attempting to push the carrier on the support. Push the carrier all the way forward and check the operation of the clutch by rotating it in a counterclockwise direction . The carrier should rotate counterclockwise with a slight drag and should lock up when
MOVE TOWARD CENTER
D 1291·0
FIG. 73- Planetary Clutch Installation in Carrier- Center Support Not Chamfered attempting to rotate it in a clockwise direction . II. Install the selective thrust washer on the pinion carrier rear pilot. If the end play was not within specifications when checked prior to disassembly, replace the washer with one of proper thickness. Refer to the Specification Section of Group 7 for selective thrust washer thick ness. 12. Install the output shaft, cardully meshing the internal gear with the pinions. REAR SUPPORT I. Position the needle bearing and retainer on the rear support (Fig. 42). 2. Position a new rear support to case gasket on the rear support. Re-
tain the gasket with transmission fluid. 3. Install the rear support. As the support is installed, insert the tubes into the case. GOVERNOR I. Position the governor drive ball in the pocket in the output shaft. Retain the ball with transmission fluid. 2. Install the governor assembly, aligning the groove with the ball in the output shaft. 3. Install the governor with the governor body plate toward the front of the vehicle (Fig. 41). Install the governor snap rin~~:. EXTENSION HOUSING I. Insert the extension housing oil DETENT PAWL
-fiiii!I~~A.;D ::_J:USTMENT SCREW
'I
FIG. 7 4 -Selector Lever Detent Pawl Adiustment - Typical
PART 7-J- F. M.X. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION seal replacer and pilot in the housing. Position a new gasket to the extension housing and install the extension housing on the transmission case. Coat the bolt threads with 85A19554-A sealer and install the extension housing attaching bolts, breather tube clip, vacuum tube clip, and external tooth lock washer. The lock washers must be installed with the rolled edge toward the transmission case to Insure a tight seal. 1. Torque the extension housing at· taching bolts to specification. 3. Install the lubrication tube. FRONT PUMP
1. Position a new front pump gasket in the counterbore of the transmission case . 1. Install the front pump, aligning the pump bolt holes with the holes in the · case. Install three of the front pump attaching bolts and torque them to specification. TRANSMISSION END PLA \'CHECK
band, strut, and servo into position engaging the anchor end of the band with the anchor pin in the case. 3. Locate the servo on the case, and install the attaching bolts. Tighten the attaching bolts only two or three threads. 4. Install the servo release tube. REAR SERVO
1. Position the servo anchor strut, and rotate the rear band to engage the strut. 1. Position the servo actuating lever strut with a finger, and then install the servo and attaching bolts. Move the rear servo (with reasonable force) toward the centerline of the transmission case, against the servo attaching bolts. While holding the servo in this position, torque the attaching bolts to specification. · 3. Install the front servo apply tube. PRESSURE REGULATOR BOD\'
1. Install
1. Mount the dial indicator support in a front pump bolt hole. Mount a dial indicator on the support so that the contact rests on the end of the turbine shaft. 1. Use a large screwdriver to pry the front of the clutch drum toward the rear of the transmission. Set the dial indicator at zero. 3. Remove the screwdriver and pry the units toward the front of the transmission by inserting a screwdriver between the large internal gear and the transmission case. Note the i'ndicator reading. End play should be 0.010-0.029 inch (minimum end play is preferred). 4. Remove the indicator and the tool from the extension housing. 5. Install the one remaining front pump attaching bolt and torque it to specification. FRONT SERVO 1. Position the front band forward in the case with the band ends up. 1. Position the servo strut with the slott~d end aligned with the servo actuating lever, and with the small end aligned with the band end. Rotate the
the pressure regulator body and attaching bolts, and torqu~ the bolts to specifications. 1. Install the control and converter valve guides and springs. Install the spring retainer. CONTROL VALVE BOD\'
1. Install the control valve assembly, carefully aligning the servo tubes with the control valve. Align the inner downshift lever between the stop and the downshift valve. Shift the manual lever to the I position. Align the manual Yahe with the actuating pin in the manual detent le•er. Do not tighten the attaching bolts. 1. Move the control valve body toward the center of the case until the clearance is less than 0.050 inch between the manual valve and the actuating pin on the manual detent lever. 3. Torque the attaching bolts to specification. Be sure that the rear fluid screen retaining clip is installed under the valve body bolt as shown in Fig. 35. 4. Install the main pressure oil tube. Be sure to install the end of the tube that connects to the pressure re-
7-121
gulator assembly first. Then, install the other end of the tube into the main control assembly by tapping it gently with a soft hammer. 5. Install the small control pressure compensator tube in the valve body and regulator. 6. Turn the manual valve one full turn in each manual lever detent position. If the manual valve binds against the actuating pin in any detent position, loosen the valve body attaching bolts and move the body away from the center of the case. Move the body only enough to relieve the binding. Torque the attaching bolts and check the mapual valve for binding. 7. TQ'fque the front servo attaching bolts to specification. FRONT AND REAR BAND ADJUSTMENTS Adjust the front and rear bands as detailed in Section 5. VACUUM DIAPHRAGM UNIT 1. Position the control rod in the bore of the vacuum diaphragm unit and install the diaphragm unit. Make sure the control rod enters the throttle valve as the vacuum unit is installed. 1. Torque the diaphragm unit to specification. FLUID FILTER AND OIL PAN l. Position the fluid filter on the rear clip ~o that the tang enters the hole in the filter flange. Then, rotate the filter (clockwise) until the grommet is over the pump inlet port of the valve body regulator and press the filter down firmly. Install the filter retaining clip. 1. Place a new gasket on the transmission case artd install the pan . Install the attaching bolts and lock washers and torque the bolts to specification. If the converter and converter housing were removed from the transmission, install these components. Position the transmission assembly on the transmission jack, and refer to Transmission Installation Procedures for installing the transmission.
7-122
PART
SPECIFICATIONS
7-4
MODEL · APPLICATION FALCON
TRANSMISSION MODEL
COLOUR IDENTIFICATION
TYPE
200 CID
0546·002
G.T.A.
Black
250 CID
0546-001
G.T.A.
Green
CLUTCH PLATES
CONVERTOR
REAR CLUTCH TRANSMISSION MODEL
11 in.
Mean diameter of fluid circuit Maximum torque multiplication
2:1
Stall speed
Engine RPM in drive
200 CID
1800-1900
250 CID
1850-1950
FRONT CLUTCH
STEEL PLATES
COMPOSITION PLATES
STEEL PLATES
COMPOSITION PLATES
0546-002
5
5
4
3
0546-001
5
5
5
4
SHIFT POINTS: 3.23:1 Diff. ratio. Manual
Shift
Throttle
M.P.H.
D
1-2
K.D.
D
2-3
K.D
D
3-2
K.D.
D
3-1
K.D.
31-39 53-61 44-54 19-29
Manual
Shift
Throttle
D
1-2
Zero
D
2-3
Zero
D
3-1
Zero
1
2-1
Zero
8EAIIIIATIOS -All MOORS
M.P.H.
8-10 10-13 4-8 10-18
a. No shift to 1st or 3rd in 2. b. No K.D. to 1st gear above 29 mph.
LINE PRESSURE: Idle Pressure
D 2 1 Rev. Neutral
58-70 58-70 58-70 58-70 58-70
Stall Pressun
ltD. Pressure after CutbiCk
D
200-250
D
90-115
2
200-250
2
90-115
1
200-250
1
90-115
Rev.
200-250
Check pressures with transmission at ambient temperature and at 220•f
FIRST
4.78-2.39:1
SECOND
2.90- 1.45:1
THIRD
2.00-1.00:1
REVERSE
4.18-2.09:1
PART 7-4- SPECIFICATIONS
7-123
LUBRICANT Cepecity (including converter)
Auto-trMsmission Fluid To Ford Specificotion M2C33 F 14! Imp. pints
Normol operoting temperoture
100 to 115·c
Torque Figures (All Figures expressed
1n
Ft. Lbs. excepted where otherwise stoted).
Tronsmission cose to converter housinQ l::xtension housinQ to trMsmission cose Tronsmission Oil Pon Front servo to tronsmission cose Reor servo to tronsmission cose Pump odaptor to pump body (set-screwl 15/16 in bolt} Pump odoptor to tronsmission cose Kear adaptor to transmission case li in . boltl .._.entre support to transmission cose Outer lever to manuol valv& shaft Pressure point (use sealer! bearbox droin pluQ Oil tube collector to lower body Governor line plate to lower body _1-_ower body end plote to lower body _lJpper body trent or rear end plate to upper body Upper body to lower body Valve bodies assembly to tronsmission case Front pump strainer to lower body Downshitt volve com bracket to volve body Governor body to sleeve Governor cover plote to governor body Front servo lever adjustrng screw nut Rear servo "djusting screw locknut _Starter inhibitor switch locknut Downshift valve control cable odaptor to case Filler tube t:onnecter odoptor to cose Filler tube to connector sleeve nut Stone Quords to convertor housing Drive plate to torque converter
17-22 8-10 8-10 8- 10 10-13 24-36 17-22 8- 18.5 4 -5 10-13 10- 15 4-5 IU-14 20-30 20-30 20-30 20-30 LU-JU 4-5 20-30 LU· JU
in. in. in . in. rn.
lb. lb. lb. lb. lb.
in . lb . rn . lb .
4-!> 20-30 in. lb . 15-20 L!> -JU 4-6 10- 12 20-30 17 - 18 1.4-1.6 25 -30
7-124
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
C4 TRANSMISSION MODELS
250 C.I.D. 250 C.I.D. 302 C.I.D. 351 C.I.D.
1V 2V 2V 2V
CONTROL PRESSURE AT DRO OUTPUT SHAn' SPEED-C4 TRANSMISSION CHtrtl Stltct• Manlftlll Enlint ~~~ Thrtttlt LtYir Vac.lna. H8. Spttd (I'SI) l'tsiUtll Idle
Closed
P, N, 0 I, 2
(!)Above18
R
As Req'd.
As Req'd.
Ap~rox.
1.0
0, 2, I
As RfQ'd.
As Req'd.
10
As Req'd.
As Req'd.
Below 3
0, 2, I 0, 2, I R
52-85 52-115 52-180 Pressure ·starts olncr... 96-110 143-160 230-260
(!)Cars checked al hiah altitudes At altitudes above sea level it may not bt l:'lble to obtlin 18" ot enaint vacuum at idle. For idle vacuums of less t n 18" refer to followin& table to determine idle speed pressure specificalion in forward drivin& ranp (0).
Ctlltrtl l'rassllt (PSI)
Enlint Vacuu11 17 16 15 14 13 12
52-74 52-78 52-85
LUBRICANT REFILL CAPACITY 302 Capacity Type
(Imp.) 7'!.. qts. M2C33F
351 (Imp.) 8'!.. qts. M2C33F
CONTROL VALVI IODY SPRING IDINTIFICATION
Tllrust Wasil• Itt. 2 MICII lilt. Sta•Pttl Tllnst Wa.W Wasil•
••
3 2 1 Spacer
0.075.0.073 0.058.0.056 0.043-0.041 0.032-0.0360.
a)Selectaon an paars not applicable. ®This is a selective spacer. The sp;!cer must be installed next to the stator support to obtain correct end play.
Model PEE-AC1
13 12 10 12 12 15 14 15 10 11 8
Model PEF
9.5
0.853
0.300
0.0212
2.50
0.390
Orange
11 9
1.40 1.667
0.350 0.668
0.0286 0.0507
1.49 7.30
0.739 0.586
None None
Total Coils
Manual Valve Detent 2-3 Backout Valve 1-2 Transition Valve: Throttle Downshift Valve: low Servo Modulator Valve:
-
Main Oil Pressure Reg., Valve Inner Main Oil Pressure Reg., Valve Outer
s,tcllcalltl 0.008.0.042 inch Stlectivt Thrust WIShers Available Turbine and Stator End Play Check 0.040 inch (maximum) lnttrmtdialt Band Adjustment Adjust tcrtw to 10 ft-lbs torque, tnd back off 1~ turns low·Rtvtrst Band Adjustment Adjust tcrew to 10 ft·lbs tor9ut, and back off thrtt turns Forward Clutch Pressure Plale 0.025 to 0.050 inch to Snap Rina Clttranc:e Selective Snap Ring Thicknesses 0.050-0.054 0.064-0.068 0.078-0.082 0.092-0.096 0.048-0.074 inch Reverse-Hip Clutch Prtailra Plitt to Snap ttina Clurance Selective Snap Ring Thicknesses 0.050-0.054 0.064-0.068 0.078-0.082 0.092-0.096 SILICTIVI THRUST WASHIISCONTROL TRANSMISSION IND PLAY® (No. 1 and 2)
Spring Free Length Dia. 0.0. (Inches) (Inches) leaf Type 1.345 0.345 1.150 0.330 0.816 0.280 1.158 0.380 1.335 0.380 1.191 0.281 1.192 0.295 1.513 0.292 1.023 0.340 0.730 0.265 0.684 0.300
Spring
Throttle Pressure Booster Valve: Throttle Pressure limit Valve: Throttle Pressure Modulator Valve: line Pressure Coast Boost Valve: Drive 2 Valve: Int. Servo Accumulator Valve:
O,.,.Utl Tranamission End Plly Check
Tllrust Wash• Itt. 1 Nvlon Ctl• Tllnst If Wulltl Wasw 0.108.0.104 Black 0.091-0.087 Natural 0.074.0.070 Green 0.057-0.053 Red 0.121.0.125 Yellow
52-90 52-96 52-101 52-101
11
PEE-AC PEE-AC PEE -AC PEF-C CHICKS AND ADJUSTMINTS
PEE PEF
Wire length at lbs load Dia. (Inches) load length 7.25 0.542 0.0258 1.45 0.620 0.023 0.95 0.480 0.0301 3.00 0.500 0.0286 1.35 0.553 0.0286 1.12 0.553 0.033 5.25 0.620 0.0379 6.25 0.770 0.0286 3.575 0.620 0.0332 4.10 0.494 0.0258 0.80 0.580 0.0258 1.50 0.390
Spring Color Code None Gray Dk. Green None Yellow Purple Dk. Green Brown Yellow Dk. Blue Violet Lt. Green
PART 7-4- SPECIFICATIONS
SHIFT SPEEDS- ACTUAL M.P.H . 250 (1 -V) - 2.92 : 1 Rear Axle Throttle
Range
Closed (Above 18' ' Vacuum)
7-125
STALL SPEED LIMITS Engine Model
Engine Speed (rpm)
Shift
M.P.H.
250-1V
1600-1800
D D D 1
1-2 2-3 3-1 2·1
8-11 12-22 6-9 26-36
250-2V
1650-1850
302-2V
1780-2000
351 -2V
1520-1720
To Deten t (Torque Demand)
D D D D
1·2 2-3 3-2 2-1 or 3-1
26-40 42-64 34-36 24-30
Thru Det ent W.O.T .
D D D D
1-2 2-3 3-2 2-1 or 3-1
35-45 50-60 50-60 28-34
250 (2-V) - 2.92: 1 Rear Axle Shift
M.P .H.
D D D 1
1-2 2-3 3-1 2-1
9-11 12-22 8-10 28-38
To Detent (Torque Demand)
D D D D
1-2 2-3 3-2 2-1 or 3-1
28-40 44-64 28-30 16-18
Thru Detent W.O.T .
D D D D
1-2 2-3 3-2 2-1 or 3-1
36-46 52-68 50-64 28-32
Throttle
Range
Closed (Above 18" Vacuum)
302 V-8 - 2.92: 1 Rear Axle Throttle
Range
Shift
M.P.H.
Closed (Above 18" Vacuum)
D D D 1
1-2 2-3 3-1 2-1
9-10 12-22 9-10 30-40
To Detent (Torque Demand
D D D D
1-2 2-3 3-2 2-1 or 3-1
27-39 46-63 28-30 14-16
Thru Detent W.O .T .
D D D D
1-2 2-3 3-2 2-1 or 3-1
36-48 56-72 54-58 28-30
CLUTCH PLAnS AtYirst· Hi&h Clutch Transmission Modtl
PEE-AC PEF-C
Converter size
Forward Clutch
Sttel PlattS
Composition Platts
Sttel Platts
Composition Platts
4
4
4
5
PEE-AC PEF-C
TORQUE LIMITS Description
Foot Pounds
Pressure Gauge Tap . .. . 9-15 Conv. Hse. lower Cover to Trans.. . . 12-16 Downshift lever to Case . . .. . ... . . . .12-16 Oil Pan to Case ..... . ....... . 12-16 Cooler Bracket & Oil Pan to Case .. . .... 12-16 Int. Servo Cover to Case . .. . . . . 16-22 Rev. Servo Cover to Case ... ...... . . . . . . ... . .... 12-20 Support to Front Pump .......... . . . ... . 12-20 Distributor Sleeve to Case .... . .... . . . . . .12-20 Reverse Servo Piston to Rod .. .... .. ....... . .. . . .. Outer Race to Case . . . . . . ...... 13-20 Diaphragm Assy. to Case . . . . . .... ... . . ... . 15-23 Converter Drain Plug . . . .. 20-30 Flywheel to Converter . . . . . . .20-30 . .28-40 Ext. Hsg. to Case .. .. . .. .. . . .28-40 Conv. Housing & Pump to Case . .. .28-40 Front Oil Pump to Case ... ... . . . .28-40 Converter Housing to Case . Manual lever to Shaft . . .. .. . . . . .30-40 Int. Band Adj. Stop to Case . . . ..... .. 35-45 Rev. Band Adj. Stop to Case . . .35-45 Transmission to Engine:
351 V-8 (2-V) - 2.75:1 Rear Axle
Inch Pounds
Throttle
Range
Shift
M.P.H.
Closed (Above 18" Vacuum
D D D 1
1-2 2-3 3-1 2-1
9-11 13-23 9-11 32-42
To Detent (Torque Demand)
D D D D
1-2 2-3 3-2 2-1 or 3-1
29-41 49-67 38 32
Thru Detent W.O.T .
D D D D
1-2 2-3 3-2 2-1 or 3-1
38-51 66-82 63 36-38
End Plate to Control Assy .. .............. . ....... . 20-35 40-50 Lower to Upper Valve Body .. . . 80-120 Accumulator Plate to Body .40-55 Screen & lwr. to Upper Valve Body ... . Neutral Switch to Case . . . . . ... . . . . .. 55-75 Screen & Control Assy. to Case . . .... . . . . . .. 80-120 Control Assy. to Case ... ... . ... 80-120 Gov. Body to Distributor Body .. 80;120 .. . .. .. .. . Cooler line Fittings . . . " . . " .. . ....... . 80-120
*Tighten to 10ft. lbs. and back off 5/a turn
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7-126
FMX Transmission MODEL PH B- S -MODEL APPLICATION 351 C.I.D. 4V- 2V CONTROL PRESSURE AT ZERO GOVERNOR RPMFMX TRANSMISSION Engine Speed
Throttle
Idle
Closed
Control Line Pressure (PSI)
Manifold Vac. Ins. Hg.
Range
As Required
As Required
As Required
R
56-82 59-111
D, 2, 1
69-126
D, 2, 1
133-189
R
184-221
P. N. D. 2, 1
Above 18 (i)
As Required
PHB-S
10 Below l
fD At altitudes above
sea level, it may not lie possible to obtain 18 inches of engine vacuum at idle. For idle vacuum of less than 18 inches, refer to the following table to determine idle speed pressure specification in D driving range. Engine Vacuum
Line Pressure
17 inches 16 inches 15 inches 14 inches 13 inches 12 inches 11 inches
57-67 57-67 57-72 57-79 57-86 57-92 57-99
LUBRICANT REFILL CAPACITY
STALL SPEED LIMITS
Capacity
(Imp) 91/4 QIS.
Type
M2C33F FMX TRANSMISSION -WITH 351-4V ENGINE
1650-1850
AXLE RATIO 2.75:1
Throttle
Range
Shift
1
Closed (Above
10-16 12-26 5-11 33-43
17"
0 D D
Vacuum)
I
1-2 2-3 3-1 2-1
To Detent (Torque Demand)
0 0 0
1·2 23 3-2
36-54 58-80 27-43
Through Detent
D 0 D 0
I2 2-3 3-2 3-1 or 2-1
49-58 75-89 62-79 33-44
(WOT)
Entine Splld (rpm)
Enaine Model
351 ClD-4V
CLUTCH PLATES FMX TRANSMISSION FORWARD CLUTCH Steel Plates
Friction Plates
4
5Ci;
Selective Plate Thicknesses
0.0565-0.0605 0.0705-0.0745 0.0845-0.0885 0.0985-0.1025
REAR CLUTCH Selective Plate Identification
No Stripe One Stripe Two Stripes Three Stripes
Steel Plates
Friction Plates
Free Pack Clearance
4(i)
4
0. 030-0.055
La sI plale (Fr1ct10n) m FMX forward clutch 1S s~:lect1ve . Install th1ckesl plate 111 pack that w1ll be a mmimum of 0.010 mch below 111put shaft shoulder 111 cylinder. All other fr1ct10n plat es m pack are thmnest available. 0 Plus one waved plate 1nslalled between two steel plates at p1ston end of pack.
(o)
PART 7-4- SPECIFICATIONS
7-127
CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS Opention Transmission End Play Check Turbine and Stator End Play Check Front Band Adjustment (Use 1/4 inch spacer between adjustment screw and servo piston stem) Rear Band Adjustment
Specific:ltio n 0.010-0.029 (Selective Thrust Washers Available) New or rebuilt 0.023 max., Used 0.040 max. 0 Adjust screw to 10 in-lbs torque. Remove spacer, then tighten screw an additional 3/4 turn and lock . Adjust screw to 10 in-lbs torque. then back off exactly 1-1/2 turns and tighten lock nut. Primary Sun Gear Shaft Ring End Gap Check 0.002-0.009 Rear Clutch Selective Snap Ring Thicknesses 0.060-0 064, 0.074-0.078, 0.088-0.092, 0.102-0.106 0 To check end play, exert force on checking tool to compress turbine to cover thrust washer wear plate. Set indicator at zero.
SELECTIVE THRUST WASHERS Identification No. By Thickness
Thrust Washer Thickness -Inch
Thrust Washer Thickness -Inch
Identification No. By Thickness
0 . 061~ . 063
0.074~ . 076 0.081~.083
0 . 067~ . 069
CONTROL VALVE SPRING ICENT!FICATION
Sprin& 1-2 Shift Accumulator Valve 1st-2nd Shift Control Valve: Throttle Press. Booster Valve: 2-1 Scheduling Valve: Low Inhibitor Valve: Control Oil Press. Comp. Valve -Outer : Control Oil Press . Comp. Val ve -l nner : Downshift Valve Control Check Valve 3rd-2nd Downshift Control Valve Transition Valve : 2nd-3rd Shift Valve-lnner 2nd-3rd Shift Valve-Outer Low Servo Modulator Valve
Total Coils 8.5
Free Len&th (Inches) U70
Sprin& Dia. O.D. (Inches) 0.470
Wire Dia. (Inches) 0.035
Le111th at Lbs. Load Load Ltn&lh 2.900 0.445
7
1.880
0.725
0.044
4.600
0.560
White
15.5
1.660
0.470
0.047
5.250
0.890
Green
11
0.880
0.265
0.026
2.400
0.415
Pink
17
1.270
0.230
0.025
1.900
0.890
Yellow
7
1.09
0.5091.0.
0.034
1.520
0.500
Purple
10
1.00
0.034
2.720
0.520
None
13.5 12 14.5 7 21 4 29.5
1.107 0.480 0.820 1.320 1.340
0.023 0.014 0.018 0.035 0.028 0.041 0.028
1.400 0.100 0.605 2.750 1.500 2.950 2.975
0.640 0.280 0.520 0.460 0.670 0.430 1.050
None None Purple
1.008 1.800
0.250 0.214 0.200 0.470 I. D. 0.295 0.692 I. D. 0.235
Spr in& Col or Code Yellow
Orange Green White None
GROUP 7-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
7-128 TORQUE liMITS
Item
Item
Ft-Lbs
Ft-Lbs
Converter to Flywheel
23-28
Extension Assy. to Trans. Case
Converter Hsg. to Trans. Case
40-50
Pressure Gauge Tap
7-15
Front Pump to Trans. Case
17-22
Band Adj. Screw Locknut to Case
Fron! Servo to Trans. Case
30-35
Yoke to Output Shaft
Rear Servo to Trans. Case
40-45
Reverse Servo Piston to Rod
4-6
Cooler Tube Connector Lock
-
-
Upper Valv~ Body to lower Valve Body Overrunning Clutch Race to Case Oil Pan to Case Rear Servo Cover to Case Stator Support to Pump
30-40
Converter Drain Plug
15-28
10-13
Rear Band Adjusting Screw to Case
35-40
-
Front Band Adjusting Screw Locknut
20-25
Manual Valve Inner Lever to Shaft
8-12
Downshift Lever to Shaft
17-20
Guide Plate to Case
-
Filler Tube to Engine
20-25
Intermedia te Servo Cover to Case
-
Filler Tube to Pan
Converter Cover to Converter Hsg.
12-16
Regulafor to Case
17-22
Transmission to Engine
Planetary Support to Trans. Case
20-25
Control Valve Body to Trans. Case
8-10
Transmission to Engine : Falcon Mustang-6-Cyl.
Diaphragm Assy. to Case
20-30
Cooler Return Check Valve
9-12
Distributor Sleeve to Case
-
Governor to Counterweight
50-60
Governor Valve Body Cover Screws Pressure Regulator Cover Screws
20-30 20-30
Control Valve Body Screws (10-24)
20-30
Front Servo Release Pts ton
20-30
End Plates to Body
20-30
Stator Support to Pump
23-35
Inner Downshtft Lever Stop
-
40-50
-
Lower to Upper Valve Body
-
Reinforcement Plate to Body Screeo1 and Lower to Upper Valve Body
-
Neutral Switch to Casec:D
-
Neutral Switch to Column
20
Accumulator Plate to Body
-
Lower Valve Body Cover and Plate to Valve Body
48-72
Control Assy. to Case
96-120
Gov. Body to Collector Body
-
Cooler Line Fttlings
-
FALCON FAIRLANE w~:~~~~P
ENGINE
GROUP 8
PAGE PART 8-1 -General Engine Service
8-2
PART 8-2-200, 250 C. I. D. Six Cylinder Engines
8-22
PART 8-3-302 C.I.D.-351 C.I.D. Engines
8-44
PART 8-4- Specifications
8-67
8-2
PART 8·1
GENERAL ENGINE SERVICE
Pace 8-2 Diagnosis and Testing 8-3 Diagnosis Guide .... 8- 8 Cam shaft Lobe Lift 8-8 Compression Test .... 8-9 Manifold Vacuum Test 8-9 Hydraulic Valve Lifte,· Tests Positive Crankcase Ventilation System Test 8-10 B-10 Crankshaft End Play Flywheel Runout-Automatic Transmission 8-11 8-11 Flywheel Ring Gear Runout 8-11 Camshaft End Play 8-11 Timing Chain Deflection . .. . 8-11 2 Common Adjustments and Repairs Valve Clearance-Hydraulic Valve Lifters, 8-11 Six cylinder engines Valve Clearance-Hydraulic Valve Lifters 8-12 V -8 engines .. Valve Rocker Arm· and / or Shaft Assembly 8-12 8-13 Push Rods 8-13 Valves 8-13 Camshaft 8- 14 Crankshaft 8- 14 Pistons, Pins and Rings
Section
Section
1
3
Cylinder Block Flywheel Ring Gear-Manual Shift Transmission Cleaning and Inspection Intake Manifold ... . Exhaust Manifold . .. . Valve Rocker Arm and/or Shaft Assembly Push Rods .... Cylinder Heads Hydraulic Valve Lift~rs Timing Chain and Sprockets Camshaft Crankshaft Vib1·ation Damper and Sleeve Crankshaft Flywheel-Manual Shift Transmission Flywheel-Automatic Transmission Connecting Rods ... . Pistons, Pins and Rings .... Main and Connecting Rod Bearings Cylinder Block Oil Pan Oil Pump Positive Crankcase Ventilation System
Pa1• 8-15
8-15 8-15 8-15 8-1 5 8- 5
8-15 8·16 8- 17 8-17 8-17 8-17 8-17 8-.8
8-18 8-18 8-18 8-1 8 8-1 9 8-19 8-19 8-20
MODEL YEAR CHANGE LEVEL
On 351 CID 4V engines only.
This part covers engine diagnosis, tests and adjustment and repair procedures. In addition, the cleaning and ir>spection procedure'> are covered. For engine removal, disassembly, assembly, installation and major repair procedures, refer to the pertinent part of this group.
ENGINE
MONTH OF ENGINE PRODUCTION
An identification tag is attached to the engine. The symbol code (Fig. 1) identifies this engine for determining parts usage; i.e., engine cubic inch displacement and model year. The change level and engine code number determine if parts are peculiar to a specific engine.
FIG. 1.-Engine Identification Tag 351 CID 4V only- Typical
D
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Engine performance complaints usually fall under one of the basic headings listed in the Diagnosis Guide. When a particular trouble can not be traced to a definite cause by a simple check, the possible items
that could be at fault are listed in the order of their probable occurrence. Check the items in the order listed. For example, under Poor Acceleration, the ignition system is listed as a probable cause of the trouble. All
the conventional ignition system items that affect acceleration are listed. Ch~k all these items before proceeding to the next probable cause. For diaposls proceclures of ~pi don system malfancdons, refer to Group 9.
PART 8-1- GENERAL ENGINE SERVICE
8-3
DIAGNOSIS GUIDI
ENGINE WILL NOT CRANK
ENGINE CRANKS NORMALLY, IUT WILL NOT START
The cause of this trouble is usually in the starting system (Group 14). If the starting system is not at fault, check for a hydrostatic lock or a seized engine as follows: Remove the spark plugs; then attempt to crank the engine with the Check the fuel supply. If there is sufficient fuel in the tank and the proper starting procedure is used, the cause of the trouble probably lies in either the ignition or the fuel system. To determine which system is at fault~ perform the following test: Dtsconnect a spark plug wire. Check the spark intensity at the end of the wire by installing a terminal adapter in the end of the wire. Then ~old the adapter approximately mch from the exhaust manifold and crank ~he engine.
*
IF THERE IS NO SPARK OR A WEAK SPARK AT THE SPARK PLUGS The cause of the trouble is in the ignition system. Disconnect the brown lead (I terminal) and the red and blue lead (s terminal) at the starter relay. Install an auxiliary starter switch between the battery and s terminals of the starter relay. To determine if the cause of the trouble is in the primary or the secondary circuit, remove the coil h~gh .tension lead from the top of the dtstnbutor, and hold it approximately 3 / 16 inch from the cylinder head. With the ignition on, crank the engine and check for a spark. If the spark at the coil high tension lead is good, the cause of the trouble is probably in the distributor cap, rotor or spark plug wires. If there is no spark or a weak spark at the coil high tension lead, ~he cause _ of the trouble is probably m the pnmary circuit, coil to distributor high tension lead, or the coil. IF THERE IS A GOOD SPARK AT THE SPARK PLUGS
Check the spark plugs. If the spark plugs are not at fault, check the following items: MANUAL CHOKE Check the choke linkage for binding or damage. Make certain the choke plate closes when the choke knob on the instrument panel is pulled out and that the plate opens when the knob is pushed in.
~ta~ter. If the engine cranks, it mdicat~s that water is leaking into
the cylmders. Remove the cylinder head(s) and inspect the gasket(s) and/ or head(s) for cracks. Examine the cylinder block for cracks.
AUTOMATIC CHOKE
Check the position of the choke plate. If the engine is hot, the plate should be open. If the plate is not open, the engine will load up due to the excessively rich mixture and will not start. If the engine is cold, the plate should .be closed. If the plate 1s not operatmg properly, check the following items: The choke plate and linkage for binding. The fast idle cam linkage for binding. . Thermostatic spring housing adJUStment. FUEL SUPPLY AT THE CARBURETTOR
Work the throttle by hand several times. Each time the throttle is actuated, fuel should spurt from the accelerating pump discharge port (6-cylinder) or nozzles (V-8). If fuel is discharged by the accelerating pump, the engine is probably flooded, or there is water in the fuel system, or an engine mechanical item is at fault. If fuel is not discharged by the accelerating pump, disconnect the carburettor fuel inlet line at the carburettor. Use a suitable container to catch the fuel. Crank the engine to see. if fuel is reaching the carburettor. If fuel is not reaching the carburettor, check: The fuel filter. The fuel pump. The carburettor fuel inlet line for obstructions. The fuel pump flexible inlet line for a collapsed condition. The fuel tank line for obstructions. For fuel tank vent restriction. If fuel is reaching the carburettor check: The fuel inlet system including the fuel inlet needle and seat assembly and the float assembly. ENGINE
Mechanical failure in camshaft drive.
8-4
GROUP 8- ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS GUIDE ENGINE STARTS, BUT FAILS TO KEEP RUNNING
ENGINE RUNS, BUT MISSES
FUEL SYSTEM Idle fuel mixture needle(s) not vropE>rly adjusted. Engine idle speed set too low. The choke not operating properly. Float setting' incorrect. Fuel inlet system not operating properly. Dirt or water in the fuel lines or in the fuel filter. Carburettor icing. Fuel pump defective. Determine if the miss is steady Ol' ·erratic and at what speed the miss occurs by operating the engine at various speeds under load.
MISSES STEADILY AT ALL SPEEDS Isolate the miss by operating the engine with one cylinder not firing. This is done by operating the engine with the ignition wire removed from one spark plug at a time, until .all cylinders have been checked. Ground the spark plug wire removed. If the engine speed changes when .a particular cylinder is shorted out, that cylinder was delivering power before being sho1·ted out. If no ~hange in the engine operation is evident, the miss was caused by that cylinder not delivering power befo1·e being shorted out. In this case, check the: IGNITION SYSTEM If the miss is isolated in a particular cylinder, perform a spark test on the ignition lead of that cylinder. If a good spark does not occur, the trouble is in the seconduy circuit of the system. Check the spark plug wire and the distributor cap. If a good spark occurs, check the spark plug. If the spark plug is not at fault, a mechanical component of the engine is probably at fault. ENGINE Intake manifold gasket leak. Perform a manifold vacuum or compression test to determine which mechanical component of the engine is at fault.
MISSES ERRATICALLY AT ALL SPEEDS EXHAUST SYSTEM Exhaust system restricted. IGNITION SYSTEM Breaker points not properly adjusted. Defective breaker points, condenser, secondary wiring, coil or spark plugs.
Check for dirt in the carburettor not allowing fuel to enter or be discharged from the idle system.
IGNITION SYSTEM Defective spark plugs. Leakage in the high tension wiring. Open circuit in primary resistance wire. Breaker points not properly ad· jus ted. High Tension leakage across the coil, rotor or distributor cap. Defective ignition switch. FUEL SYSTEM Float setting incorrect. Fuel inlet system not operating properly. Dirt or water in the fuel lines or carburettor. Restricted fuel filter. Loose booster venturi (V-8). COOLING SYSTEM Check the cooling system for internal leakage and/ or for a condition that prevents the engine from reaching normal operating temperature. ENGINE Perform a manifold vacuum or compression test to determine which mechanical component of the engine is at fault.
MISSES AT IDLE ONLY FUEL SYSTEM Idle fuel mixture needle(s) not properly adjusted. Restriction in idle fuel system. IGNITION SYSTf:M Excessive play in the distributor shaft. Worn distributor cam. Defective coil, rotor, condenser, Breaker points, ignition wiring or <>park plugs. EN~INE
Valve clearance set too tight. Worn tamshaft lobe(s) . Perform a manifold vacuum or compression test to determine which mechanical component of the engine is at fault.
MISSES AT HIGH SPEED ONLY FUEL SYSTEM Power valve or passages clogged or damaged. Low or erratic fu el pump pressure. Fuel inlet system not operating properly.
PART 8-1- GENERAL ENGINE SERVICE
8-5
DIAGNOSIS GUIDE (Continued) ENGINE RUNS, BUT MISSES (Continued)
Restricted fuel filter. Restricted main fuel system. Positive crankcase ventilation system restricted or not operating properly. IGNITION SYSTEM Defective spark plugs.
COOLING SYSTEM Engine overheating. ENGINE Perfol'm a man ifold vacuum or compression test to determine which mechanical component of the engine is at fault.
ROUGH ENGINE IDLE
FUEL SYSTEM
IGNITION SYSTEM
Engine idle speed set too low. Idle fuel mixture needle(s) not properly adjusted. Float setting incorrect.
Improperly adjusted or defective breaker points. Fouled or improperly adjusted spark plugs. Incorrect ignition timing. Spark plug misfiring.
Air leaks between the carburettor, spacer and the manifold and/or fittings. Intake manifold gasket leak (V-8). Fuel leakage at the carburettor fuel bowl. Power valve leaking fuel (V-8). Idle fuel system air bleeds or fuel passages restricted. Fuel bleeding from the accelerating pump discharge nozzles. Leaking fuel pump, lines or fittings.
POOR ACCELERATION
IGNITION SYSTEM Incorrect ignition timing. Fouled or improperly adjusted spark plugs. Improperly adjusted or defective breaker points. Distributor not advancing properly.
ENGINE Loose engine mounting bolts or worn engine support insulator. Cylinder head bolts not properly torqued. Valve clearance set too tight. Crankcase ventilation regulator valve defective or a restricted vent tube. Worn camshaft lobes. Perform a manifold vacuum or compression test to determine which mechanical component is at fault. Dirt or corrosion in accelerating system.
Restricted fuel filter. Defective fuel pump.
BRAKES Improper adjustment-too tight.
TRANSMISSIONS FUEL SYSTEM
ENGINE DOES NOT DEVELOP FULL POWER, OR HAS POOR HIGH SPEED PERFORMANCE
Clutch slippage (manual shift transmissions. Improper band adjustment (automatic transmissions) . Converter One-Way Clutch (automatic transmissions).
Accelerating pump malfunction. Jo'loat setting incorre.:t. Throttle linkage not properly adjusted. Accelerating pump stroke not properly adjusted. Leaky power valve, gaskets or accelerating pump diaphragm. Power valve piston stuck in the up position (6-cylinder and 302 V8).
Perform a manifold vacuum or compression test to determine which mechanical component of the engine is at fault.
FUEL SYSTEM
IGNITION SYSTEM
Restricted air cleaner. Restricted fuel filter. Clogg·ed or undersize main or secondary jets or low float sett'ing.
Ignition timing not properly adjusted. Defective coil, condenser or rotor. Distributor not advancing properly. Excessive play in the distributor shaft. Distributor cam worn. Foule.d or improperly adjusted spark plugs, or spark plugs of incorrect heat range. Impl'operly adjust ed or defective breaker points.
Power valve or passages clogged or damaged. Fvel pump pressure incorrect.
Power valve piston stuck In the up position (6-cylinder and 302 V8). Automatic.' choke malfunctioning or improperly adjusted.
ENGINE
8-6
GROUP 8-
ENGINE
DI~GNOSIS GUIDE (Continued)
ENGINE DOES NOT DEVELOP FULL POWER, OR HAS POOR HIGH SPEED PERFORMANCE (Continued)
EXHAUST SYSTEM Restriction in system. COOLING SYSTEM Thermostat inoperative or of incorrect heat range. Thermostat installed incorrectly. Check the cooling system for internal leakage and/ or for a condition that prevents the engine from reaching normal operating temperature.
EXCESSIVE FUEL CONSUMPTION
ENGINE OVERHEATS
ENGINE Perform a manifold vacuum or engine compression test to determine which mechanical component of the engine is at fault. One or more camshaft lobes worn beyond wear limit. Worn valve guides. Positive crankcase ventilation system not operating properly. TRANSMISSION Improper band adjustment (automatic transmissions).
Determine the actual fuel con· sumption with test equipment installed in the car. If the test indicates that the fuel consumption is not excessive, demonstrate to the owner how improper driving habits will affect fuel consumption. If the test indicates that the fuel consumption is excessive, make a preliminary check of the following items before proceeding to the fuel and ignition systems. PRELIMINARY CHECKS CHASSIS ITEMS Check: Tyres for proper pressure. Front wheel alignment. Brake adjustment. EXHAUST SYSTEM System restricted. ODOMETER Check calibration. IGNITION SYSTEM Check: Distributor breaker points. Ig-nition timing. EN<:INE Crankt-ase ventilation regulator valvt• defedive or restrided tubes (Positive Crankcase Ventilation Sy,;tcm). FINAL CHECKS FUEL SYSTEM Che<·k: Fuel pump prt'ssure. E11;.rine idlt• speed. Idle fuel mixture needlt'(s) for prc:>per adjustment.
Automatic choke for proper operation. Fast idle speed screw for proper adjustment. Accelerating pump stroke adjustment.
TEMPERATURE SENDING UNIT AND GAUGE Unit or c:aug·e defective (not indi<·ating correct temperatures) ot· constant volta).!.'t' regulator defec. tive. ENGINE Cylinder head bolts not properly tm·qued. Incorrect valve clearance. Low oil level or im·on·ect viscosity oil used . COOLING SYSTEM Insufficient coolant.
Coolin)! system leaks. Orin· helt tension incorrect. Radiator fins obstructed. Thennostat defective. Thermostat improperly installed. Cooling systl'm passages blocked. Water pump inoperative. IGNITION SYSTEM lnt·ot..-ect ignition timing. I nco. rect distributor advance. EXHAUST SYSTEM Restl'ictions in system. BRAKES ImpropE-r adjustment-too tig·ht.
Air cleaner for restrictions. J:.,loat setting or fuel level. Jets for wear and/or damage. Power valve operation. Air bleeds for obstructions. Accelerating pump discharge nozzles for siphoning. Accelerator linkage for binds. Choke adjustment. IGNITION SYSTEM Check : Ignition timing. Spark plug condition and adjustment. Distributor spark advance operation.
ENGINE Pel'form a manifold vacuum or engine compression test to detel'· mine which met·hanical component of the engine is at fault. Check valve clearance . COOLIN(; SYSTEM Check thermostat operation and heat range. TRANSMISSION Cht'ck han
PART 8-1-
8-7
GENERAL ENGINE SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS GUIDE (Continued)
LOSS Of COOLANT
COOLING SYSTEM Leaking radiator or water pump. Loose or damaged hose connections. Radiator cap defective. Overheating. ENGINE Cylinder head gasket defective.
ENGINE FAILS TO REACH NORMAL OPIRAnNG TEMPERATURE
NOISY HYDRAULIC VALVE LlmR
TEMPERATURE SENDING UNIT AND GAUGE Unit or gauge defective (not indicating correct temperature) or constant voltage regulator defective.
A noisy hydraulic valve lifter can be located by operating the engine at idle speed and placing a finger on the face of the valve spring retainer. If the lifter is not functioning properly, a shock will be felt when the valve seats. Another method of identifying a noisy lifter is by the use of a piece of hose. With the engine operating at idle speed, place one end of the hose near the end of the valve stem and the other end to the ear and listen for a metallic noise. Repeat this procedure on each intake and exhaust valve until the noisy lifter(s) has been located. The most common causes of hydraulic valve lifter troubles are dirt, gum, varnish, carbon deposits and air bubbles. Dirt in the lifter assembly can prevent the disc valve from seating, or it may become lodged between the plunger and body surfaces. In either case, the lifter becomes inoperative due to failure to "pump-up," or because the internal parts are no longer free to function properly. When dirt is found to be responsible for lifter malfunction, remove the lifter assembly and thoroughly clean it. Recommended engine oil and filter change intervals should be followed to minimize lifter problems caused by dirt (Group 19). Deposits of gum and varnish cause similar conditions to exist which may result in lifter malfunction. If these conditions are found to be presept, the lifter should be disassembled and cleaned in solvent to remove all traces of deposits. Air bubbles in the lubricating oil,
Intake manifold to cylinder head gasket defective (V-8). Cylinder head or intake manifold bolts (V -8) not properly torqued. Cylinder block core plugs leaking. Temperature sending unit leaking. Cracked cylinder head or block, or warped cylinder head or block gasket ·surface.
COOLING SYSTEM Thermostat inoperative or of incorrect heat range.
caused by an excessively high or low oil level, may likewise cause lifter malfunction. A damaged oil pick-up tube may allow air to be drawn into the lubricating system. Check for engine oil aeration as follows: Check the engine oil level to be sure it is within specification and correct as required. Be sure the ~or red engine oU dlpsti~k Is beiDg used. Operate the engine at approximately 1200 rpm until normal operating temperature is reached. Stop the engine and remove the oil pressure sending unit. Install a fitting in this opening with a petcock-type valve that will permit attachment of a 1,4 to ¥s -inch-diameter hose of sufficient length to direct the oil discharge into the oil filler pipe. Close the valve. Start the engine and operate it at approximately 500 rpm for a minimum of S minutes; then, open the valve slightly to permit a steady discharge of oil. Check the oil flow for air bubbles. Increase the engine speed to approximately 1000 rpm and check for air bubbles in the oil. To fa~Uitate ~he~ldng for air bubbles, direct tbe oil flow over white paper or throop a pie~e of transparent tube. Tbe engine should not be opented at ex~esslve speeds or for extended periods with the oU bleed atta~bed. If oil aeration is evident, remove the oil pan for further test and/ or inspection of the oil pump intake system. Perform corrective action as required to remove air from the lubricating oil.
8-8 TESnNG CAMSHAFT LOBE UFT Check the lift of each lobe in consecutive order and make a note of the readings. 1. Remove the air cleaner and the valve rocker arm cover(s). 2. On a six-cylinder engine, remove the valve rocker arm shaft assembly. On a V -8 engine, remove the rocker arm stud, or stud nut, fulcrum seat and rocker arm. Use the adapter for ball-end push rods (Fig. 3). 3. Make sure the push rod is in the valve lifter socket. Install a dial indicator in such a manner as to have the ball socket adapter of the indicator on the end of the push rod and in the same plane as the push rod movement (Fig. 2 or 3). On a socket-type push rod, position the actuating point of the indi· cator in the push rod socket and in the same plane as the push rod movement (Fig. 2). 4. Disconnect the brown/red lead (I terminal) and the red and blue lead (S terminal) at the starter relay. Install an auxiliary starter switch between the battery and S terminals of the starter relay. Crank the engine with the Ignition switch OFF. "Bump" the crankshaft over until the tappet or lifter is on the base circle of the camshaft lobe. At this point, the push rod will be In its lowest position,
GROUP 8-ENGINE 5. Zero the dial indicator. Continue to rotate the crankshaft slowly until the push rod is in the fully raised position. 6. Compare the total lift recorded on the indicator with specifications. 7. To check the accuracy of the original indicator reading, continue to rotate the crankshaft until the indicator reads zero. H the Uft on any lobe is below specified wear Umits, the camshaft and the valve Ufters operating on the worn lobe(s) must be replaced. NOTE Comparing the size of one camshaft lobe to another, with a micrometer or other measuring instrument, is not a satisfactory method of checking camshaft lobe lift, owing to tolerances on base circle radii. 8. On a six-cylinder engine, install the rocker arm shaft assemblies. On a V -8 engine, install the rocker arm, fulcrum seat and stud. Adjust the valve clearance (Page 8-11 ) 9. Install the valve rocker arm cover(s) and the air cleaner. COMPRESSION TEST Dynamic Compression Test. To perform a dynamic compression check, follow the procedures in Part 9-1, Section 1 under Ignition System TestsCompression Gauge Check 1. Be sure the crankcase oil is at the proper level. DISCONNECT ALTERNATOR. Connect a high speed battery charger to battery to ensure cranking speed does not vary between cylinders. Operate the engine for a minimum of 30 minutes at
OF PUSH ROO SOCKET
FIG. 2-Camshaft lobe liftSix Cylinder Engines
FIG. 3-Camshaft lobe ltftV-8 Engines -Typical
1,200 r.p.m. or until the engine is at normal operating temperature. Remove the spark plugs. 2. Disconnect the brown/red lead (I terminal) and the red and blue lead (S terminal) at the starter relay. Install an auxiliary starter switch between the battery and S terminals of the starter relay. Check valve clearances as indicated in Group 8, Section 2, using the auxiliary starter switch to turn engine. Crank the engine with the ignition switch off.
3. Set the throttle plates and choke plate in the wide open position. 4. Install a compression gauge in No. 1 cylinder.
5. Using the auxiliary starter switch, crank the engine a minimum of five pumping strokes, and record the highest gauge reading. Note the number of compression strokes required to obtain the highest reading. 6. Repeat the test on each cylinder, cranking the engine the same number of times for each cylinder as was required to obtain the highest reading on the No. 1 cylinder. Test Conclusions. The test pressures should fall within the band specified and the compression of all cylinders should be uniform within 20 psi. If one or more cylinders exhibit compression figures lower than that specified, re-run the engine at 1200 rpm for 5 minutes. Recheck the low reading cylinders to confirm the original results. A reading of more than the allowable tolerance above normal indicates excessive deposits in the cylinder or wrong cylinder head(s) on the engine. A reading of more than the allowable tolerance below normal indicates leakage at the cylinder head gasket, piston rings or valves or wrong cylinder head(s) on the engine. A low, even compression in two adjacent cylinders indicates a cylinder head gasket leak. This should be checked before condemning the rings or valves. During a compression test, if the pressure fails to climb steadily and remains the same during .the first two successive strokes, but climbs higher on the succeeding strokes, or fails to climb during the entire test,
PART 8-1-GENERAL ENGINE SERVICE it indicates a sticking valve. MANIFOLD VACUUM TEST A manifold vacuum test aids in determining the condition of an engine and in helping to locate the cause of poor engine performance. To check manifold vacuum : 1. Operate the engine for a minimum of 30 minutes at 1200 rpm or until the engine is at normal operating temperature. 2. On 6-cylinder engines, install an accurate, sensitive vacuum gauge in the intake manifold fitting. On a V -8 engine, remove the plug or power brake line at the rear of the intake manifold and install an accurate, sensitive vacuum gauge. 3. Operate the engine at recommended idle rpm, with the transmission selector lever in neutral. 4. Check the vacuum reading on the gauge. Test Conclusions. Manifold vacuum is affected by carburetor adjustment, valve timing, ignition timing, the condition of the valves, cylinder compression, the condition of the positive crankcase ventilation system, and leakage of the intake manifold, carburetor, carburetor spacer or cylinder head gaskets and a restricted exhaust system. Because abnormal gauge readings may indicate that more than one of the above factors are at fault, exercise caution in analyzing an abnormal reading. For example, if the vacuum is low, the correction of one item may increase the vacuum enough so as to indicate that the trouble has been corrected. It is important, therefore, that each cause of an abnormal reading be investigated and further tests conducted, where necessary, in order to arrive at the correct diagnosis of the trouble. Table l lists various types of readings and their possible causes. Allowance should be made for the effect of altitude on the gauge reading. The engine vacuum will decrease with an increase in altitude. HYDRAULIC VALVE LIFTER TESTS Dirt, deposits of gum and varnish and air bubbles in the lubricating oil can cause hydraulic valve lifter failure or malfunction. Dirt, gum and varnish can keep a check valve from seating and cause a loss of hydraulic pressure. An open valve disc will cause the plunger to force oil back into the
8-9
.
TABLE 1-Manifold Vacuum Gauge Readings Gauge Reading
Engine Condition
18 inches or over-All engines. Except where otherwise specified.
Normal.
Low and steady.
Loss of power in all cylinders possibly caused by late ignition or valve timing, or loss of compression due to leakage around the piston rings.
Very low.
Intake manifold, carburettor spacer or cylinder head gasket leak.
Needle fluctuates steadily as speed increases.
A partial or complete loss of power in one or more cylinders caused by a leaking valve, cylinder head or intake manifold gasket, a defect in the ignition system, or a weak valve spring.
Gradual drop in reading at engine idle.
Excessive back pressure in the exhaust system.
Intermittent fluctuation.
An occasional loss of power possibly caused by a defect in the ignition system or a sticking valve.
Slow fluctuation or drifting of the needle.
Improper idle mixture adjustment or carburetor, spacer or intake manifold gasket leak or restricted crankcase ventilation system.
valve lifter reservoir during the time the push rod is being lifted to force the valve from its seat. Air bubbles in the lubricating system can be caused by too much oil in the system or too low an oil level. Air may also be drawn into the lubricating system through an opening in a damaged oil pick-up tube. Air in the hydraulic system can cause a loss of hydraulic pressure in the valve lifter. Assembled valve lifters can be tested with tool 6500-E to check the leak down rate. The leak down rate specification (Page 8·68) is the time in seconds for the plunger to move the length (Page 8-68) of its travel while under a 50 lb. load. Test the valve lifters as follows: 1. Disassemble and clean the lifter to remove all traces of engine oil. Lifters cannot be checked with engine oil in them. Only the testing fluid can be used. 2. Place the valve lifter in the tester, with the plunger facing upward. Pour hydraulic tester fluid into the cup to a level that will cover the valve lifter assembly. The ftuid can be purchased from the manufacturer of the tester. Do not use kerosene, for it wiU not provide an accurate test.
FIG. 4-Piacing SJeel Ball in Valve Liftttr Plunger
FIG. 5-Adjusting the Ram Length
8-10 3. Place a 5116-inch steel ball in the plunger cup (Fig. 4). 4. Adjust the length of the ram so that the pointer is l/16-inch below the starting mark when the ram contacts the valve lifter plunger (Fig. 5) to facilitate timing as the pointer passes the Start Timing Mark. Use the center mark on the pointer scale as the Stop Timing point instead of the original Stop Timing mark at the top of the scale. 5. Work the valve lifter plunger up and down until the lifter fills with fluid and all traces of air bubbles have disappeared. 6. Allow the ram and weight to force the valve lifter plunger downward. Measure the exact time it takes for the. pointer to travel from the Start Timing to the Stop Timing marks of the tester. 7. A valve lifter that is satisfactory must have a leak-down rate (time in seconds) within the minimum and maximum limits specified. 8. If the valve lifter is not within specifications, replace it with a new lifter. Always test a new lifter before installing It in the engine. It is not necessary to disassemble and clean new valve lifters before testing, because the oil contained in new lifters is test fluid. 9. Remove the fluid from the cup and bleed the fluid from the lifter by depressing the plunger up and down. This step will aid in depressing the lifter plungen when checking the valve clearance.
POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM TEST A malfunctioning positive crank-
FIG. 6- Crankcase Ventilation System Tester -Typical
GROUP 8- ENGINE case ventilation system may be indicated by loping or rough engine idle. Do not attempt to compensate for this poor idle condition by disconnecting the crankcase ventilation system and/or making carburettor adjustments. The removal of the crankcase ventilation system from the engine will adversely affect the fuel economy and engine ventilation with resultant shortening of engine life. To determine whether the loping or rough idle condition is caused by a malfunctioning crankcase ventilation system, perform either of the following tests. -Regulator Valve Test. Install a known good regulator valve in the crankcase ventilation system. Start the engine and compare the engine idle condition to the prior idle condition. If the idle condition is found to be satisfactory, replace the regulator valve and clean the hoses, fittings. etc. If the loping or rough idle condition remains when the good regulator valve is installed, the crankcase ventilation regulator valve is not at fault. Check the crankcase ventilation system for restriction at the intake manifold or carburetor spacer. If the system is not restricted, further engine component diagnosis will have to be conducted to find the malfunction. Air Intake Test. I. With the engine at normal operating temperature, remove the oil filler cap . 2. Hold the tester C8AZ-6B627-A over the opening in the valve cover. Make sure that the surface is flat to form a seal between the cover and tester. If the cover is distorted, shape it as required to make an air tight seal. An air leak between the cover and tester will render the tester inoperative. 3. Start the engine and allow it to operate at the recommended idle speed. 4. Hold the tester over the oi I filler cap opening making sure that there is a positive seal between the tester and cover. 5. If the ball settles in the Good (green) area, the system is functioning properly. If the ball settles in the Repair (red) area, clean or replace the malfunctioning components as re. quired. 6. Repeat the test after repairs are made to make sure that the crankcase ventilation system is operating satisfactorily.
CRANKSHAFT END PLAY 1. Force the crankshaft toward the rear of the engine. 2. Install a dial indicator so that the contact point rests against the crankshaft flange and the indicator axis is parallel to the crankshaft axis (Fig. 7). 3. Zero the dial indicator. Push the crankshaft forward and note the reading on the dial. 4. If the end play exceeds the wear limit, replace the thrust bearing. If the end play is less than the minimum limit, inspect the thrust bearing faces for scratches, burrs, nicks or dirt. If the thrust faces are not defective or dirty, they probably were not aligned properly. Install the thrust bearing and align the faces following the procedure recommended under Main Bearing Replacement in the pertinent engine section. Check the crankshaft end play. FLYWHEEL FACE RUNOUTMANUAL-SHIFT TRANSMISSIONS Install a dial indicator so that the indicator point bears against the flywheel face (Fig. 8). Turn the flywheel making sure that it is full forward or rearward so that crankshaft end play will not be indicated as tlywheel runout. If the clutch face runout exceeds the specifications, remove the flywheel and check for burrs between the flywheel and the face of the crankshaft mounting flange. If no burn exist, check the runout of the
FIG. 7 -Typical Crankshaft End Play
PART 8-1-GENERAL ENGINE SERVICE
8-11
FIG. 8-Typical Flywheel Face Runout crankshaft mounting flange. Replace the flywheel or machine the crankshaft flywheel mounting face if the mounting flange runout is excessive. If the ring gear runout exceeds specifications, replace it or reinstall it on the flywheel, following the procedure under Ring Gear Replacement (Page 8-15 ) . FLYWHEEL RUNOUTAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION Remove the spark plugs. Install a dial indicator so that the indicator point rests on the face of the ring gear adjacent to the gear teeth. Push the flywheel and crankshaft forward or backward as far as possible to prevent crankshaft end play from being indicated as flywheel runout. Set the indicator dial on the zero mark. Tum the flywheel one complete revolution while observing the total indicator reading (f.I.R.). If the T.I.R. exceeds specifications, the flywheel and ring gear assembly must be replaced. FLYWHEEL RING GEAR RUNOUT Install the dial indicator so that the point rests on a tooth of the ring gear (Fig. 9), and check the outside diameter (0.0.) of the assembled flywheel and ring gear. For this cheek, carefully adjust the Indicator on the gear tooth so that the Indicator point is near the es:treme Umit of its traveL 1bis wiD
EJ
FIG. 1 0-Typical Camshaft End Play FIG. 9 -Typical Flywheel Ring Ge• Runout prevent the indicator point from catching between the gear teeth as the flywheel is turned. Set the indicator dial on the zero mark and slowly turn the flywheel through one revolution while observing the total indicator reading. The T.I.R. must be within specifications, or the ring gear (standard transmission) or flywheel and ring gear assembly (automatic transmission) must be replaced. CAMSHAFT END PLAY Push the camshaft toward the rear of the engine. Install a dial indicator so that the indicator point is on the camshaft sprocket retaining screw (Fig. 10). Zero the dial indicator. Position a large screw driver between the camshaft sprocket and the block. Pull the camshaft forward and release it. Compare the dial indicator reading with specifications. If the end play is excessive, replace the thrust plate. Remove the dial indicator. TIMING CHAIN DEFLECTION 1. Rotate the crankshaft in a clockwise direction (as viewed from the front) to take up the slack on the left side of the chain. l. Establish a reference point on the block and measure from this point to the chain (Fig. 11 ). 3. Rotate the crankshaft in the
TAKE UP SLACK ON ·LEFT SIDE, ESTABLISH REFERENCE POINT. MEASURE DISTANCE A. TAKE UP SLACK ON RIGHT SIDE. FORCE LEFT SIDE OUT. MEASURE DISTANCE I. DEFLECTION IS A MINUS I. A .( 1284
FIG. 11-Typical Timing Chain Defledion opposite direction to take up the slack on the right side of the chain. Force the left side of the chain out with the fingers and measure the distance between the reference point and the chain. The deflection is the difference between the two measurements. If the deflection exceeds specifications, replace the timing chain and sprockets.
COMMON ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
ADJUSTMENTS
VALVE CLEARANCEHYDRAUUC VALVE LIFTERS, Six-Cylinder Engines These engines are equipped with
adjusting screws to adjust the valve clearance. This is accomplished by loosening the rocker arm adjusting screw until there is end clearance in the push rod, rotate the push rod and tighten the adjusting screw to
eliminate all push rod clearance, tighten the adjusting screw a further ! of one tum. An alternative method may be used for collapsing the lifters. 1. Disconnect the brown/red lead
8-12 (I terminal) and the red and blue lead (5 terminal) at the starter relay. Install an auxiliary starter switch between the battery and S terminals of the starter relay. Crank the engine with the ignition switch off until the No. 1 piston is on T.D.C. after the compression stroke. By using procedure in Step 3, check the following valves: No. 1 intake. No. 3 exhaust. No. 1 exhaust. No. 4 intake. No. 2 intake. No. 5 exhaust. 2. Now rotate the crankshaft until the No. 6 piston is on T.D.C. after the compression stroke (1 revolution of the crankshaft). By using the procedure in step 3, check the following valves: No. 2 exhaust. No. 5 intake. No. 3 intake. No. 6 intake. No. 4 exhaust. No. 6 exhaust. 3. Using tool 6513AG, apply pressure on the push rod end of the rocker arm (Fig. 12) to slowly bleed down the valve lifter until the plunger is completely bottomed. Hold the lifter in this position and check the available clearance between the rocker arm and the valve stem tip with a feeler gauge. If clearance is not within specifications, tum the adjusting screw clockwise to decrease or counter-clockwise to increase, the clearance. Normally, one turn of the adjusting screw will alter the clearancr by 0.075 inch at the valve stem tip.
VALVE CLEARANCEHYDRAUUC VALVE LIFTERS, V-8 Engines The cylinders are numbered from front to rear-right bank, 1-2-3-4; left bank, 5-6-7-8. The valve arrangement on the left bank is E-1-E-1-E-1-E-1 and on the right bank is 1-E-1-E-1-E-1-E. A 0.060-inch shorter push rod or a 0.060-inch longer push rod are available for service to provide a means of compensating for dimensional changes in the valve mechanism. Refer to the Master Parts List for the pertinent color code. Valve stem to valve rocker arm clearance should be within specifications with the hydraulic lifter completely collapsed. Repeated valve reconditioning operations (valve and/or valve seat refacing) will decrease the clearance to the point that if not compensated for, the hydraulic valve lifter will cease to function and the valve will be held open. To determine whether a shorter or a longer push rod is necessary, make the following check :
GROUP 8- ENGINE 1. Disconnect the brown/red lead (I terminal) and the red and blue lead (S terminal) at the starter relay. Install an auxiliary starter switch between the battery and S terminals of the Starter relay. Crank the engine with the ignitions switch 0 FF until the No. I piston is on TDC after the compression stroke. 2. With the crankshaft in the positions designated in Steps 3, 4 and 5 position the hydraulic lifter compressor tool on the rocker arm. Slowly apply pressure to bleed down the hydraulic lifter until the plunger is completely bottomed (Fig. 14 ). Hold the lifter in this position and check the available clearance between the rocker arm and the valve stem tip with a feeler gauge. The feeler gauge width must not exceed 3/8-inch. If the clearance is less than specifications, install an undersize push rod . If the clearance is greater than specifications, install an oversize push rod. 3. With the No. I piston on TDC at the end of the compression stroke, POSITION A in Fig. 13, check the following valves: No. 1 Intake No. 1 Exhaust No.4 Intake No. 3 Exhaust No.8 Intake No.7 Exhaust 4. Rotate the crankshaft to POSITION 8 in Fig. 13 and check the following valves: No. 3 Intake No. 2 Exhaust No.7 Intake No. 6 Exhaust 5. Rotate the crankshaft to POSITION C in Fig. 13 and check the followiniZ valves: No. 21ntake No.4 Exhaust No. 5 Intake No. 5 Exhaust No.6 Intake No.8 Exhaust The rocker arm, bolt, fulcrum seat and rocker arm eliminates the necessity of adjusting.
~.
FIG. 12 -Yalft ca....c. Check -
6 CYL
FIG. 14 Valve Clearance Check-V-8 he valve clearance. However, to obtain the specified valve lash. it is important that all valve components be in a serviceable condition and installed and torqued properly. With the crankshaft in the positions designated in steps 2, 3 and 4 remove the fulcrum seat and rocker arm. Inspect them for wear. See Fig.
·. ·•
15. VALVE ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLY If the pad at the valve end of POSITION A - No. 1 at TDC ot end of compression str'oke. POSITION 8 -Rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees (one hoH revolution) clockwise from POSITION A. POSITION C - Rotate the cronkshoh 270 degrees (three quarter revolut ion) clockwise from
POSITION B. W1th No. 1 at TDC at end of compreu•o~ stroke make o chalk mark ot points Band C opproxtmotely 90 degrees apart.
FIG. 13 - Position of Crankshaft for Checking and Adjusting Valve Clearance
::. ... ''· -: ,.
.
,.
PART 8-1-GENERAL ENGINE SERVICE
'IROCKER ARM 6564
FULCRUM BOLT 6A529
FULCRUM SEAT 6A528
FIG. 15 V8 ENGINE the rocker arm has a grooved radius, replace the rocker arm. Do not attempt to true this surface by grinding.
PUSH RODS Following the procedures in Section 3 under Push Rod Inspection check the push rods for straightness. If the runout exceeds the maximum limit at any point, discard the rod. Do not attempt to straighten push rods. Reaming Valve Guides. If it becomes necessary to ream a valve guide (Fig. 16) to install a valve with an oversize stem, a reaming kit is available which contains the following reamer and pilot combinations: a 0.003-inch O.S. reamer with a standard diameter pilot, a 0.015-inch O.S. reamer with a 0.003•inch O.S. pilot, and a 0.030inch reamer with a 0.0 15-inch O.S. pilot. When going from a standard size valve to an oversize valve, always use the reamers in sequence. Always. reface the valve seat after the valve guide has been reamed. Refacing Valve Seats. Refacing of the valve seats should be closely coodinated with refacing of the valve face so that the finished seat and valve face will be concentric and the specified interference fit will be maintained. This is important so that the valve and seat will have a compression tight fit. Be sure that the refacer grinding wheels are properly dressed. Grind the valve seats to a true 45° or 30° angle (Fig. 17). Remove only enough stock to clean up pits,
grooves, or to correct the valve seat runout. Mter the seat has been refaced, use a seat width scale to measure the seat width (Fig. 18). Narrow the seat, if necessary, to bring it within specifications. If the valve seat width exceeds the maximum limit, remove enough stock from the top edge and/ or bottom edge of the seat to reduce the width to specifications (Fig. 17). For exhaust valves use a 30° angle grinding wheel to remove stock from the top of the seats (lower the seats) and use a 60° angle wheel to remove stock from the bottom of the seats (raise the seats). For inlet valves use a 15 ° angle grinding wheel to remove stock from the top of the seats and a 60° angle grinding wheel to remove stock from the bottom of the seats. The finished valve seat should contact the approximate centre of the valve face. It is good practice to determine where the valve seat contacts the face. To do this, coat the seat with Prussian blue, then set the valve in place. Rotate the valve with light pressure. If the blue is transferred to the center of the valve face, the contact is satisfactory. If the blue is transferred to the top edge of the valve face, lower the valve seat. If the blue is transferred to the bottom edge of the valve face, raise the valve seat.
8-13
grooves, etc., may be removed. Discard valves that are severely damaged, or if the face runout or stem clearance exceeds specifications. Discard any defective part of the valve assembly. Refacing Valves. The valve refacing operation should be closely coordinated with the valve seat refacing operation so that the finished angles of the valve face and of the valve seat will provide a compression-tight fit. Be sure that the refacer grinding wheels are properly dressed. If the valve face runout is excessive and/ or to remove pits and grooves, reface the valves to a true 44 • angle. Remove only enough stock to correct the runout or to clean up the pits and grooves. If the edge of the valve head is less than Ya 2 inch thick after grinding, replace the valve as the valve will run too hot in the engine. The interfer· eoce fit of the valve and seat should not be lapped out. Remove all grooves or score TO REMOVE STOCK FROM TOP OF SEAT, USE 30° WHEEL
TO REMOVE STOCK FROM BOTIOM OF SEAT. USE 60° WHEEL
FIG. 17 -Valve Seat Refacing
FIG. 16 -Reaming Valve Guides
marks from the end of the valve stem, and chamfer it as necessary. Do not remove more than 0.010 inch from the end of the valve stem. If the valve and/ or valve seat has been refaced, it will be necessary to check the clearance between the rocker arm pad and the valve stem with the valve train assembly installed in the engine. Seled Fitting Valves. If the valve stem to valve guide clearance exceeds the wear limit, ream the valve guide for the next oversize valve stem. Valves with oversize stem diameters of 0.003, 0.015 and 0.030 inch are available for service. Always reface the valve seat after the valve guide has been reametl.. Refer to Reaming Valve Guides.
VALVES For inspection procedures refer to Section 3. Valve defects, such as minor pits,
CAMSHAFf Remove light scuffs, scores or nicks from the camshaft machined surfaces with a smooth oil stone.
8-14 CRANKSHAFf Dress minor imperfections with an oil stone. If the journals are severely marred or exceed the wear limit, they should be refinished to size for the next undersize bearing. Refinishing Journals. Refinish the journal to give the proper clearance with the next undersize bearing. If
GROUP 8- ENGINE has been selected, check for a daDlaged piston; then, try a new piston. If the clearance is less than the minimum limit, recheck calculations before trying another piston. If none can be fitted, refinish the cylinder for the next size pistor;1. When a piston bas been fitted, mark it for assembly in the cyUnder to which it was fitted. If the taper, out-of-round and piston to cylinder bore clearance conditions of the cylinder bore are within specified limits, new piston rings will give satisfactory service.
Fitting Piston Rings 1. Select the proper ring set for the size piston to be used. l. Position the ring in the cylinder bore in which it is going to be used. 3; Push the ring down into the bore area where normal ring wear is not encountered. 4. Use the head of a piston to position the ring in the bore so that the ring is square with the cylinder wall. Use caution to avoid damage
TABLE 2-0versize Service Piston
FIG. 18 -Valve Seat Width the journal will not clean up to give the proper clearance with the maximum undersize bearing available, replace the crankshaft. Always reproduce the same journal shoulder radius that existed originally. Too small a radius will result in fatigue failure of the crankshaft. Too large a radius will result in bearing failure due to radius ride of the bearing. After refinishing the journals, chamfer the oil holes, then polish the journal with a No. 320 grit polishing cloth and engine oil. Crocus cloth may be used also as a polishing agent. PISTONS, PINS AND RIMGS Fitting Pistons. Pistons are available for service in standard sizes and the oversizes shown in Table 2. The standard-size pistons are color coded red or blue on the dome. Refer to the specifications for the standard-size piston dimensions. Piston pins are provided with new pistons. Follow the procedures in Section 3 to measure the piston O.D. and cylinder bore I.D. The dimensions should be within specifications, and the piston to bore clearance (bore I.D. minus piston O.D.) must be within the specified limits. If the clearance is greater than the maximum limit, recheck calculations to be sure that the proper size piston
ENGINE
PISTON OVERSIZE (inches)
200 250
0.003, 0.020, 0.030, 0.040,
302 351
0.003, 0.020, 0.030 0.040
FIG. 19 -Piston Ring Gap If the new rings are to be installed
in a used cylinder that has not been refinished, remove the cylinder wall glaze. Be sure to clean the cylinder bore thoroughly, following the procedure in Section 3 page 8-19. To Fit a Piston: 1. Calculate the~size piston to be used by taking a cylinder bore. check. Follow the procedures outlined in Section 3 page 8..19 . 2. Select the proper size piston to provide the desired clearance (refer to the specifications). Measure the piston diameter in line with the centerline of the piston pin and at 90° to the piston pin axis. 3. Make sure the piston and cylinder block are at room temperature {70°F). After any refinishing operation, aUow the cyUnder bore to cool and make sure the piston and bore :ae clean and dry before the piston fit is checked.
FIG. 20 -Ring Side Clecwance to the ring or cyUnder bore. 5. Measure the gap between the ends of the ring with a feeler gauge (Fig. 19). if the ring gap is less or greater than the specified limits, try another ring set. 6. Check the ring side clearance of the compression rings with a feeler cauge inserted between the ring and its lower land (Fig. 20). The gauge should slide freely around the entire ring circumference without binding. Any wear that occurs will form a step at the inner portion of the lower land. If the lower lands have high steps, the piston should be replaced.
Fitting Piston Pins. Install the piston pin, following the procedure under Piston Assembly page 8 ·35). Piston piD bores must not be reamed with hand-driven reamers. Use motor-driven reamers, but do not exceed the cutting speed (rpm) recommended by the reamer manufacturer. If a reamer is used, set the reamer to the size of the pin bore; then expand the reamer slightly and trial ream the pin bore. Take a light cut. Use a pilot sleeve of the nearest size to maintain alignment of the bores. Check the hole size, using the new piston pin. If the bore is small, expand the reamer slightly anrt make
PART 8-1-GENERAl ENGINE SERVICE another cut. Repeat the procedure until the proper fit is obtained. Check the piston pin for fit in the respective rod or rod bushing. CYLINDER BLOCK Refinishing CyUnder WaDs. Honing is :recommended for refinishing cylinder walls only when the walls have minor imperfections, such as light scuffs and scratches or for fitting pistons to the specified clearance. The grade of hone to be used is determined by the amount of metal to be removed. Follow the instructions of the hone manufacturer. If coarse stones are used to start the honing operation, leave enough material so that all hone marks can be removed with the finishing hone which is used to obtain the proper piston clearance. Cylinder walls that are severely marred and/ or worn beyond the specified limits should be refinished. Before any cylinder is refinished, all main bearing caps must be in place and tightened to the proper torque so that the crankshaft bearing boreswill not become distorted from thtil refinishing operation. Refinish only the cylinder or cylinders that require it. All plsto4S are
EJ
the same weight, both standard and ovenlze; therefore, various sizes of plstous can be used without upsetting engine balance. Refinish the cylinder with the most wear first to determine the maximum oversize. If the cylinder will not clean up when refinished for the maximum oversize piston recommended, replace the cylinder block. Refinish the cylinder to within approximately 0.0015 inch of the required oversize diameter. This will allow enough stock for the final step of honing so that the correct surface finish and pattern are obtained. Use clean sharp hones of No. 180-220 grit for this operation. For the proper . use of the refinishing equipment, follow the instructions of the manufacturer. Only experienced penonnel should be .._ lowed to perform this won. After the final operation in either of the two refinishing methods described and prior to checking the piston fit, thoroughly clean and oil the cylinder walls, following the procedure in Section 3. Check the piston fit, following the procedure in this section and Section 3. Mark
8-15
the pistons to correspond to the cylinders in which they are to be installed. When the refinishing of all cylinders that require it has been completed and all pistons are fitted, thoroughly clean the entire block and oil the cylinder walls following the procedure under Cylinder Block Cleaning on page 8·f9
FLYWHEEL RING GEARMANUAL-SHIFf TRANSMISSIONS
To replace a defective ring gear, heat the defective ring gear with a blow torch on the engine side of the gear, and knock it off the flywheel. Do not hit the flywheel when removIng the ring gear. Heat the new ring gear evenly until the gear expands enough to slip onto the flywheel. Make sure the gear is seated properly against the shoulder. Do not heat any portion of the gear to a tempenture higher than 500°F. If this Umlt II exceeded, the temper will be re'moved froiD the ring gear teeth.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
The cleaning and inspection procedures in this section are for a complete engine overhaul; therefore, for partial engine overhaul or parts replacement, follow the pertinent cleaning or inspection procedure.
INTAKE MANIFOLD CLEANING Remove all gasket material from the machined surfaces of the manifold. Clean the manifold in a suitable solvent and dry it with cornpressed air. INSPECTION Inspect the manifold for cracks, damaged gasket surfaces, or other defects that would make it unfit for further service. Replace all studs that are stripped or otherwise damaged. Remove all fiilngs and foreign matter that may have entered the manifold as a result of repaln.
EXHAUST MANIFOLDS CLEANING Remove all gasket material from the manifolds. Make sure the automatic choke air inlet and outlet hold (right exhaust manifold on
302 V-8 engines) are completeiy open and the cover does not leak. Blow out the automatic choke air heat tube with compressed air. INSPECTION Inspect the cylinder head joining flanges of the exhaust manifold(s) for evidence of exhaust gas leaks. Inspect the manifold(s) for cracks, damaged gasket surfaces, or other defects that would make them unfit for further service.
VALVE ROCKER ARM AND/OR SHAn ASSEMBLY CLEANING Clean all the parts thoroughly. Make sure all oil passages are open. On ball stud rocker arms, make sure the oil passage in the push rod end of the rocker arm is open. • INSPECTION On rocker arm shaft assemblies, check the clearance between each rocker arm and the shaft by checking the ID of the rocker arm bore and the OD of the shaft. If the clear. ance between any rocker arm and the shaft exceeds the wear limit, re-
place the shaft and/ or the rocker arm. Inspect the ·shaft and the rocker arm bore for nicks, scratches, scores or scuffs. Inspect the pad at the valve end of the rocker arm for indications of scuffing or abnormal wear. If the pad is grooved, replace the .rocker arm. Do not attempt to true this 1111'· face by grinding. On ball stud rocker arms, check the rocker arm and fulcrum seat for excessive wear, cracks, nicks or burrs. Check the rocker arm stud .and nut for .stripped or broken threads.
PUSH RODS CLEANING On a V-8 Engine, clean the push rods in a suitable solvent. Blow out the oil passage in the push rods with compressed air. INSPECTION Check the ends of the push rods for nicks, grooves, roughness or excessive wear. The push rods can be visually checked for straightness while they are installed in the engine by rotat-
8-16 ing them with the valve closed. They also can be checked with a dial indicator (Fig. 21).
CYLINDER HEADS CLEANING With the valves installed to protect the valve seats, remove deposits from the combustion chambers and valve heads with a scraper and a wire brush. Be careful not to damage the cylinder head gasket surface. After the valves are removed, clean the valve guide bores with a valve guide cleaning tool. Use cleaning solvent to remove dirt, grease and other deposits. Clean all bolt holes; be sure the oil transfer passage is clean.
FIG. 21 -Push Rod Runout Remove all deposits from the valves with a fine wire brush or buffing wheel. INSPECTION Check the cylinder head for cracks, and inspect the gasket surface for burrs and nicks. Replace the head if it is cracked. The following inspection procedures are for a cylinder head that is to be completely overhauled. For individual repair operations, use only the pertinent inspection procedure. Cylinder Head Flatness. When a cylinder head is removed because of gasket leaks, check the flatness of the cylinder head gasket surface (Fig. 22) for conformance to specifications. If necessary to refinish the cylinder head gasket surface, do not plane or grind off more than 0.010 inch. Vlllve Seat Runout. Check the valve seat runout with an accurate gauge (Fig. 23). Follow the instructions of the gauge manufacturer. If the runout exceeds the wear limit, reface the valve and valve seat. Valve Seat Width. Measure the valve seat width (Fig. 18). Reface the valve seats if the width is not within specifications. Valves. The critical inspection points and tolerances of the valves are illustrated in Fig. 24. Refe~ to
GROUP 8- ENGINE the specifications for the wear limits. Inspect the valve face and the edge of the valve head for pits, grooves, scores or other defects. Inspect the stem for a bent condition and the end of the stem for grooves
FIG. 22 -Typical Cylinder Head
upper surface of the valve guide. Position the dial indicator with its flat tip against the center portion of the tool's spherical section at approximately 90° to the valve stem axis. Move the tool back and forth in line with the indicator stem. Take a reading on the dial indicator without removing the tool from the valve guide upper surface. Divide the reading by two, the division factor for the tool. Valve Sprlag Pressure. Check the springs for proper pressure (Fig. 27) at the specified spring lengths. Weak valve springs cause poor engine performance; therefore, if the pres-
Flatness or scores. Check the valve head for signs of burning, erosion, warpage and cracking. Defects, such as minor pits, grooves, etc., may be removed. Discard valves that are severely damaged. Inspect the valve springs, valve spring retainers, locks and sleeves for defects. Valve Face Runout. Check the valve face runout (Fig. 25). It should not exceed the specified wear limit. If the runout exceeds the wear limits, the valve should be refaced or replaced as outlined under Refacing Valves in Section 2. Valve Stem Cleanmce. Check the valve stem to valve guide clearance of each valve in its resoective valve guide with the tool shown in Fig. 26 or its equivalent. Install the tool on the valve stem until it is fully seated, and tighten the knurled set screw firmly. Permit the valve to drop away from its seat until the tool contacts the
FOR DIMENSIONS, REFER TO SPECIFICATIONS
VALVE FACE ANGLE
FIG. 24 -Critical Valve Tolerances mre of any spring approaches the wear limit, replace the spring. Valve Sprlag SquareDess. Check each spring for squareness using a steel square and a surface plate (Fig. 28). Stand the spring and square on end on the surface plate. Slide the spring up to the square. Revolve the spring slowly and observe the space between the top coil of the spring and the square. If
FIG. 25 -Valve Race Runout FIG. 23 -Typical Valve Seat Runout
the spring is out of square more than *e inch, replace it.
PART 8-1-GENERAL ENGINE SERVICE Follow the same procedure to check new valve springs before installation. Make certain the proper spriag (color coded) is installed.
HYDRAULIC VALVE LlmRS The valve lifter assemblies !ihould be kept in proper sequence so that they can be installea in their original position. Inspect and test each lifter separately so as not to intermix the internal parts. If aoy part of the 6ft. er assembly needs replacing, replace the entire assembly. CLEANING Thoroughly clean all the parts in
FIG. 26 -Typical Valve Stem Clearance clean solvent and wipe them with a clean, lint-free cloth. INSPECTION Inspect the parts . and discard the entire lifter assembly if any part shows pitting, scoring, galling or evidence of non-rotation. Replace the entire assembly if the plunger is not free in the body. The plunger should drop to the bottom of the body by its own weight when assembled dry.
Assemble the lifter assembly and check for freeness of operation by pressing down on the push rod cup. The lifters can also be checked with a hydraulic tester to test the leak down rate. Follow the instructions of the test unit manufacturer or the procedure in Section 1. TIMING CHAIN AND SPROCKETS CLEANING Clean all parts in solvent and dry them with compressed air. Lubricate the timing chain with engine oil before installing it on the engine. INSPECTION Inspect the chain for broken, links. Inspect the sprockets for cracks and worn or damaged teeth. Replace all components of the timing chain and sprocket assembly if any one item needs replacement. On a V-8 Engine, inspect the fuel pump drive eccentric for scores, nicks or excessive wear. If the eccentric is scored, replace it. CAMS HAn CLEANING AND INSPECTION Clean the camshaft in solvent and wipe it dry. Inspect the camshaft lobes for scoring and signs of abnormal wear. Lobe wear characteristics may result in pitting in the general area of the lobe toe. This pitting is not detrimental to the operation of the camshaft; therefore, the camshaft should not be replaced until the lobe lift loss has exceeded 0.005 inch.
8-17
CRANKSHAn VIBRATION DAMPER AND SLEEVE CLEANING Clean the oil seal contact surface on the crankshaft damper with solvent to remove any corrosion, sludge or varnish deposits. Excess deposits that are not readily removed with solvent may be removed with crocus cloth. Use crocus cloth to remove any sharp edges, burrs or other imperfections which might damage the oil seal durmg installation or cause premature seal wear.
Do not use crocus cloth to the extent that the seal surface becomes polished. A finely polished surface may produce poor sealing or cause premature seal wear. INSPECTION Inspect the crankshaft damper oil seal surface for nicks, sharp edges or burrs that might damage the oil seal during installation or cause premature seal wear. CRANKSHAn CLEANING Handle the crankshaft with care to avoid possible fractures or damage to the finished surfaces. Clean the crankshaft with solvent, then blow out all oil passages with compressed air. INSPECTION Inspect main and connecting rod journals for cracks, scratches, grooves or scores. Measure the diameter of each journal in at least four places to determine out-of-round. taoer or undersize condition (Fig. 29). On engines used with a manualshift transmission, check the fit of the clutch pilot bearing in the bore of the crankshaft. The bearing is
= =
A VS B VERTICAL TAPER C VS D HORIZONTAL TAPER A VS C AND B VS D OUT-OF-ROUND CHECK FOR OUT-OF.ROUND AT EACH END OF JOURNAL
APPLY TORQUE UNTIL CLICK IS HEARD. READ Torque Wrench AND MULTIPLY READING BY TWO 12).
FIG. 28 -Valve Spring Squareness SET KNOB TO COMPRESSED LENGTH OF SPRING
FIG. 27 -Valve Spring Pressure
The lift of the camshaft lobes can be checked with the camshaft installed in the engine or on centers. Refer to Camshaft Lobe Lift. Check the distributor drive gear for broken or chipped teeth.
=
I I
'
\
___, ' ','J~~---------~~
FIG. 29 -Crankshaft Jownal Measurements
8-18 pressed into the crankshaft and should not be loose. Inspect the pilot bearing for roughness, evidence of overheating or loss of lubricant. Replace it if any of these conditions are found.
FLYWHEEL-MANUAL-SHin TRANSMISSIONS INSPECTION Inspect the flywheel for cracks, heat checks, or other defects that would make it unfit for further service. Machine the entire pressure plate mounting surface of the flywheel if it is scored or worn. If it is necessary to remove more than 0.045 inch of stock from the original thickness, replace the flywheel. Inspect the ring gear for worn, chipped or cracked teeth. If the teeth are damaged, replace the ring gear. With the flywheel installed on the crankshaft, check the flywheel fac·e runout, following the procedure in Section 1. FLYWHEEL-AUTOMAnC TRANSMISSION INSPECI'ION Inspect the flywheel for cracks or other defects that would make it unfit for further service. Inspect the starter ring gear for worn, chipped or cracked teeth. If the teeth are damaged, replace the ring gear and flywheel assembly. With the flywheel installed on the crankshaft, check the gear face runout and outside diaQleter runout of the flywheel (refer to Section 1 for the proper procedure). CONNECTING RODS CLEANING Remove the bearings from the rod and cap. Identify the bearings if they are to be used again. Clean the connecting rod in solvent, including the rod bore and the back of the inserts. Do Dot use a caustic cleaaJaa solution. Blow out all passages with compressed air. INSPECTION The connecting rods and related parts should be carefully inspected and checked for conformance to specifications. Various forms of engine wear caused by these parts can be readily identified. A shiny surface on the pin boss side of the piston usually indicates that a connecting rod is bent or the piston pin hole is not in proper re-
GROUP 8- ENGINE lation to the piston skirt and ring grooves. Abnormal connecting rod bearing wear can be caused by either a bent connecting rod, an improperly machined crilnkpin, or a tapered connecting rod bore. Twisted connecting rods will not create an easily identifiable wear pattern, but badly twisted rods will disturb the action of the entire piston, rings and connecting rod assembly and may be the cause of excessive oil consumption. Inspect the connecting rods for signs of fractures and the bearing bores for out-of-round and taper. If the bore exceeds the recommended limits and/ or if the connecting rod is fractured, it should be replaced. Check the J.D. of the connecting rod piston pin bore. Replace the connecting rod if the pin bore is not within specifications. Replace defective connecting rod nuts and bolts. If the connecting rod has been removed from the piston it should be checked for bend or twist before assembling it to the piston. Connecting rods can be checked for bend or twist while assembled to the piston. Check the connecting rods for bend or twist on a suitable alignment fixture. Follow the instructions of the fixture manufacturer. If the bend and/ or twist exceeds specifications, the connecting rod must be straightened or replaced. PISTONS, PINS AND RINGS CLEANING Remove deposits from the piston surfaces. Clean gum or varnish from the piston skirt, piston pins and rings with solvent. Do not use a caustic cleaning solutio& or a wire brush to clean pistons. Clean the r!ng grooves with a ring groove cleaner (Fig. 30). Make sure the oil ring slots (or holes) are clean. INSPECTION Carefully inspect the pistons for fractures at the ring lands, skirts and pin bosses, and for scuffed, rough or scored skirts. If the lower inner portion of the ring grooves has a high step, replace the piston. The step will interfere with ring operation and cause excessive ring side clearance. Spongy, eroded areas near the edge of the top of the piston are usually caused by detonation or
pre-ignition. A shiny surface on the thrust surface of the piston, offset from the centerline between the piston pin holes, can be caused by a bent connecting rod. Replace pistons that show signs of excessive wear, wavy ring lands or fractures or damage from detonation or preignition. Check the piston to cylinder bore clearance by measuring the piston and bore diameters. Refer to the specifications for the proper clearance. Refer to Cylinder Block InRing Groove Cleaner
FIG. 30 -Cleaning Ring Grooves -Typical spection for the bore measurement procedure. Measure the o:o. of the piston with micrometers at the centerline of the piston pin bore and at 90° to the pin bore axis. Check the ring side clearance following the procedure und<:r Fitting Piston Rings in Section 2 page 8-14. Replace piston pins showing signs of fra~...ure, etching or wear. Check the piston pin fit in the piston and rod. Refer to Pistons and Connecting Rods Assembly in the per~ tinent engine section. Check the O.D. of the piston pin and the l.D. of the pin bore in the piston. Replace any piston pin or piston that is not within specifications. Replace all rings that are scored, chipped or cracked. Check the end gap and side clearance. It is good practice to always install new rings when overhauling an engine. Rings should not be transferred from one piston to another regardless of mileage. MAIN AND CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS CLEANING Clean the bearing inserts and caps thoroughly in solvent, and dry them with compressed air. Do not scrape
8-19
PART 8-1-GENERAL ENGINE SERVICE aum or vualsh depoalts from the bearing shells. INSPECI10N Inspect each bearing carefully. Bearings that have a scored, chipped or worn.surface should be replaced. Typical examples of bearing failures and their causes are shown in Fig. 31. The copper lead bearing base may be visible through the bearing overlay. This does not mean that the bearing is worn. It is not necessary to replace the bearing if the bearing clearance is within recommended limits. Check the clearance of bearings that appear to be satisfactory with Plastigage. Fit new bearings following the recommended procedure in the pertinent part of Group 8. CYLINDER BLOCK CLEANING After any cylinder bore repair operation, such as honing or deglazing, clean the bore(s) with soap or detergent and water. 'Then, thoroughly rinse the bore(s) with clean water to remove the soap or detergent, and wipe the bore(s) dry with a dean, Hnt-free doth. FinaUy, wipe the bore(s) with a dean doth dipped in engine oil. If these procedures are not foUowed, nudq of the cyHnder bore(s) may occur. If the engine is disassembled, thoroughly clean the block in solvent. Remove old gasket material from all machined surfaces. Remove all pipe plugs that seal oil passages; then clean out all the passages. Blow out all passages, bolt holes, etc., with compressed air. Make sure the threads in the cylinder head bolt holes are clean. Dirt in the threads may cause binding and result in a false torque reading. Use a tap to true-up threads and to remove any deposits. INSPECTION After the block has been thoroughly cleaned, make a check for
cracks. Minute cracks not visible to the naked eye may be detected by coating the suspected area with a mixture of 25% kerosene and 75% light motor oil. Wipe the part dry and immediately apply a coating of zinc oxide dissolved in wood alcohol. If cracks are present, the coating will become discolored at the defective area. Replace the block if it is cracked. Check all machined gasket surfaces for burrs, nicks, scratches and scores. Remove minor imperfections with an oil stone. Check the ftatness of the cylinder block gasket surface following the procedure and specifications recommended for the cylinder head. The cylinder block can be machined to bring the cylinder head gasket surface within the fiatness specifications, but not to exceed 0.010 inch stock removal. Replace all expansion-type plugs that show evidence of leakage. Inspect the cylinder walls for scoring, roughness or other signs of wear. Check the cylinder bore for out-of-round and taper. Measure the bore with an accurate gauge following the instructions of the manufacturer. Measure the diameter of each cylinder bore at the top, middle and bottom with the gauge placed at right angles and parallel to the centerline of the engine (Fig. 32). Use only the measurements obtained at 90° to the engine centerline when calculadng the piston to cyHnder bore clearance.
._CENTER LINE OF ENGINE -
A
W
AT RIGHT • ANGLE
,
TO CENTER LINE OF ENGINE
a PARALLEL
TO CENTER LINE OF ENGINE
1. OUT-OF-ROUND : 2. TAPER :
.-
.
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A AND a DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE A MEASUREMENT AT TOP OF CYLINDER BORE AND THE A MEASUREMENT AT BOTIOM OF CYLINDER BORE
FIG. 32 -Cylinder Bore Out-of-Round and Taper Use the finest grade of honing stone for this operation. OIL PAN CLEANING Scrape any dirt or metal particles from the insidr of the pan. Scrape all old gasket material from the gasket surface. Wash the pan in a solvent and dry it thoroughly. Be sure all foreign particles are removed from below the batHe plate. INSPECTION Check the pan for cracks, holes, damaged drain plug threads, a loose batHe, and a nicked or warped gasket surface. Repair any damage, or replace the pan if repairs can not be made.
Refinish cylinders that are deeply scored and/or when out-of-round and/ or taper exceed the wear li~its. If the cylinder walls have m10or surface imperfections, but the outof-round and taper are within limits, it may be possible to remove the imperfections by honing the cylinder walls and installing new service piston rings providing the piston clearance is within specified limits. I
FIG. 33
-outer Ract to Housing
Clearance
IMPROPER SEATING
FIG. 31 -Typical a..ing Failures
OIL PUMP CLEANING Wash all parts in a solvent and dry them thoroughly with compressed air. Use a brush to clean the inside of the pump housing and the pressure relief valve chamber. Be sure all dirt and metal particles are removed. INSPECTION Refer to the specifications for clearances and wear limits.
8-20 Check the inside of the pump housing and the outer race and rotor for damage or excessive wear. Check the mating surface of the pump cover for wear. If the cover mating surface is worn, scored or grooved, replace the cover. Measure the outer race to housing clearance (Fig. 33) which should be to specifications. With the rotor assembly installed in the housing so that the identification mark on the outer race is toward the bottom of the pump, place a straight edge over the rotor assembly and the housing. Measure the clearance (rotor end play) between the straight edge and the rotor and outer race (Fig. 34). 1be outer race, abaft and rotor are replaceable only a an assembly. Check the drive shaft to housing bearing clearance by measuring the OD of the shaft and the ID of the housing bearing. Check the rotor tip clearance as shown in Fig. 35. Inspect the relief valve spring for a collapsed or worn condition. Check the relief valve spring ten-
GROUP 8-ENGINE sion. If the spring tension is not within specifications and/ or the spring is defective, replace the spring. Check the relief valve piston for scores and free operation in the bore. POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM Refer to Group 19 for the correct mileage interval for maintenance. CLEANING Do not attempt to clean the crankcase ventilation regulator valve. It should be replaced at the specified mileage intervals (Group 19). The oil filler tube breather cap, located on the valve rocker arm cover should be cleaned at the specified interval. Remove the cap and wash it in a low-volatilty, petroleum-base solvent. Probe the breather hole(s) to assure r,.moval of any accumulated deposits. Shake the cap dry and install it. Do not dry with compressed air as air pressure may damage the filter element. Clean the crankcase ventilauon system connection on the carburetor spacer by probing the inlet nipple with a flexible wire or bottle brush.
Clean the rubber hoses with a low-volatility, petroleum-base solvent and dry with compressed air.
FIG. 34 -Rotor End Play
FIG. 35 -Checking Pump Rotor
Tip Clearance
REFERENCE TO SERVICE INFORMAnON AND NOTES Date
Letter No.
Pa1e
Brief Detail
8-22
PART 8-2
200,250C.I.D. SIX CYLINDER ENGINES
Section
1
2
II
Description and Operation Manifolds Cylinder Head Cylinder Block Valve Train Lubrication System Crankcase Ventilation .... Cooling System .. .. In-Car Adjustments and Repairs Engine Supports Manitolds Remove and Replace 250 2 V Exhaust Manifold Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Assembly Cylinder Head Valve Spring Retainer and Stem Seal Replacement Cylinder Front Cover and Timing Chain Camshaft
Page 8-22 8 -22 8-22 8-23 8-23 8-23 8-24 8 -25 8-26 8-26 &- 27
Sectior•
8-27 8-27 8-28
3 4
8-29 8-30 8-31
Camshaft Rear Bearing Bore Plug Replacement Hydraulic Valve Lifter .... Main and Connecting I:od Bearing Replacement Pistons and Connecting Rods .. . . Flywheel Clutch Pilot Bushing }{eplarement Oil Filter Replacement .... Oil Pan Oil Pump . . . . . . . . . .. . .. .. . . . . Engine Removal and Installation Major Repair Operations Ct·ankshaft Camshaft Bearing Replacement Cylinder Assembly RE- placemen t Cylinder Block Replacement Engine Disassembly Engine Assembly
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
The 200 and 250 six-cylinder engines (Figs. 1, 2 and 3) are available with optional high and low compression ratios (refer specifications).
MANIFOLDS Exhaust gases provide the heat necessary to assist in vaporizing the incoming fuel mixture.
CYLINDER HEAD The cylinder bead carries the valves, valve rocker arm shaft assembly, integrally cast intake manifold, the coolant outlet and thermostat. Valve guides are integral with the bead. The valves are arranged from front to rear E-1-1-E-1-E-E-1-E-1-1-E.
FIG. 1 -Typical Left View
Page 8-32 8-32 8 - 33 8-34 8-36 8-36 8-36 8-36 8-37 8 -38 8-39 8- 39 8- 40 8 -41 8-41 8- 41 8-42
PART 8-2- 200, 250 C.I.D. SIX CYLINDER ENGINES
8-23
CYLINDER BLOCK The cylinders are numbered from 1 to 6 starting at the front of the engine. The firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4. The distributor, located on the left front of the engine, drives the oil pump through an intermediate drive shaft. The crankshaft is supported by seven main bearings. Crankshaft and thrust is controlled by the flanges of the No. 5 main bearing. The pistons have two compression rings and one oil control ring. The top compression ring is molybdenum ·coated and the lower compression ring is phosphate-coated. The oil control ring assembly consists of a serrated spring and two chromeplated steel rails.
VALVE TRAIN The Six cylinder engines utilize hydraulic valve lifters to provide zero lash. The operation and parts identification of the hydraulic valve lifters are shown in (Fig. 4). When the valve is closed, the lifter assembly is on the base circle of the camshaft lobe and the valve push rod is in its lowest position. With the lifter assembly in this position, the plunger spring expands, forcing the plunger upward. This action is transmitted to the valve rocker arm via the valve push rod until there is solid contact between the valve and the valve end of the valve rocker arm (zero valve lash). As the lifter plunger moves upward, the volume of the compression chamber is increased, resulting in reduced oil pressure in the compression chamber. Therefore, to equalize the resulting pressure differential between the supply chamber and the compression chamber, the disc valve moves off its seat and permits oil to flow from the supply chamber to the compression chamber. When the compression chamber becomes filled with oil, the pressures in the two chambers are equalized. The oil flow ceases and the disc valve spring seats the disc valve and closes the disc valve port. As the camshaft rotates, the lifter assembly is raised by the camshaft lobe. This increases the push rod force against the lifter plunger and hydraulic pressure immedately builds up in the compression chamber until it acts as a solid member of the valve operating mechanism . The lifter then
FIG. 2-Typical
Front
View
becomes a hydraulic ram which forces the valve in the cylinder head to open. During this period, a slight leakage of oil past the plunger occurs (calibrated leak down rate). As the high point of the camshaft lobe rotates and passes by the foot of the valve lifter, the valve in the cylinder head seats and the valve lifter assembly is forced downward. Reduced force on the lifter plunger at . this time relieves the pressure on the lifter plunger and it is free to be moved upward by the plunger spring. This action allows oil to flow once again through the oil holes in the lifter body and plunger. The operating cycle is completed for each revolution of the camshaft. Zero clearance (lash) in the valve train mechanism is maintained at all times by the hydraulic force and expansion of the plunger spring between the lifter body and plunger.
LUBRICATION SYSTEM Oil from the oil pan sump is forced through the pressure-type lubrication system (Fig. 6) by a rotor pump. A spring-loaded relief valve in the pump limits the maximum pressure of the system. Oil relieved by the valve is directed back to the intake side of the pump. All the oil discharged by the pump passes through a full flowtype filter before it enters the engine. The filter has an internal by-
2S0-2v pass valve and mounting gasket. The by-pass valve permits oil to by-pass the filter if it becomes clogged, thereby maintaining an emergency supply of oil to the engine at all times. An anti-drain back diaphragm prevents a reverse flow of oil when the engine is stopped. From the filter, the oil flows into the main oil gallery. The oil gallery supplies oil to all the camshaft and main bearings through a drilled passage in each main bearing web. The timing chain and sprockets are splash-lubricated from the oil pan. An oil slinger prevents leaka6e by directing oil away from the crankshaft rear oil seal. Cylinder walls, pistons and piston pins are lubricated through a drilled hole in each connecting rod which indexes with a drilled hole in the connecting rod journal of the crankshaft. Oil from the main gallery feeds pressure oil to the hydraulic valve lifters and lubricates the lifter bores in the cylinder block. A reservoir at each valve lifter bore boss traps oil so that oil is available for valve lifter lubrication as soon as the engine starts. Oil under reduced pressure is fed to the valve rocker arm shaft assem-
GROUP 8- ENGINE
8-24
FIG. 3-TYPICAL
i
Sectional View A2293·A
bly through a drilled passage in the cylinder block at the No. 4 camshaft bearing. The oil is metered by a groove in the camshaft journal. The passage in the block indexes with &. hole in the cylinder head. The oil passage in the cylinder bead is drilled from the cylinder head bolt bore to the No. 6 valve rocker arm shaft support. The rocker arm shaft supports have a square cored bolt mounting hole for more positive lubrication of the rocker arms, shafts and valves. The oil flows through the valve rocker arm shaft through drilled holes in each rocker arm to lubricate the valve and the push rod end of the rocker arm. The ·excess oil spirals down the rotating push rod and assists in lubricating the tappet and push rod seat. An oil outlet in the No. 1 rocker arm shaft support, exhausts excess oil from the valve rocker arm shaft. The oil from each rocker arm drains into the push rod chamber through the push rod bore holes in the cylinder head. The oil in the push rod chamber drains back into the oil pan through cored openings in the block.
case ventilation system is shown in Fig. 5. Ventilating air enters the engine through the oil filler cap located on the front of the valve rocker arm cover. The filler cap contains a filter-
ing element which filters the incoming air. From the oil filler cap, the air flows into the front section of the valve rocker arm shaft chamber. The ventilating air moves down past the push rods and into the crankcase. Air is diverted from the front section of the crankcase through holes in the front of the cylinder block wall to ventilate the timing chain chamber. The rotating action of the crankshaft causes the air to flow towards the rear of the crankcase and up into the rear section of the valve rocker arm cover. The air then enters a spring-loaded regulator valve that regulates the amount of air flow to meet changing operating conditions. The air is then directed to the intake manifold through the crankcase vent hose and the spacer fitting. During idle, intake manifold vacuum is high. The high vacuum overcomes the tension of the spring pressure and moves the valve to a low flow position (Fig. 7). With the valve in this position, all the ventilating air passes through the restricted passage in the valve. With the valve in this position, there is minimum ventilation. As engine speed increases and manifold vacuum decreases, the spring forces the valve out of the passage and to the full open position (Fig. 7 ). This increases the flow of ventilating air.
7"0C' OIL GALLERY
POSITIVI CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM
The air flow in the positive crank-
A2132-B
FIG. 4-Hydraulic Valve lifter Operation
PART 8·2-. 200, 250 C.I.D. SIX CYLINDER ENGINES COOLING SYSTEM The coolant is drawn from the bottom of the radiator by the water pump which delivers the coolant to .. the cylinder block (Fig. 8) . As the coolant enters the block, it "' travels through cored passages to cool the entire length of each cylinder wall. Upon reaching the rear of ·• the cylinder block, the coolant is directed upward into the cylinder head where it cools the combustion chambers, valves, and valve seats on , "' its return to the front of the engine. At this point, the coolant tl.ows into the coolant outlet connection, past the thermostat if it is open, and irito the top of the radiator. If the thermostat is closed, a small portion of tbe coolant is returned to the water pump for recirculation . The. entire system is pressurized to 13-15 psi.
A.
FIG. 5-Positive Crankcase Ventilation System -Typical
......
.......
' .
FIG. 6 -Typical lubrication System
8-25
GROUP
8-26
8-
ENGINE
TO INTAKE MANIFOLD
LOW SPEED OPERATION-HIGH MANIFOLD VACUUM HIGH SPEED OPERATION-LOW MANIFOLD VACUUM
FROM CRANKCASE AND / OR ROCKER ARM COVER
FIG. 7-Positive Crankcase Ventilation Regulator Valve Operation
EJ
FIG. 9-Engine Front Support
IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
When installing nuts or bolts that must be torqued (refer to page 8-70 for torque specifications), oil the threads with light weight engine oil. Do not oU threads that require oU· resistant or water-resistant sealer. ENGINE FRONT SUPPORT The procedures given apply to either a right or left installation. The engine front supports are located on each side of the cylinder block (Fig. 9) Removal 1. Remove the insulator to support bracket retaining nuts. 2. Using a wood block placed under the oil pan raise the engine only enough to clear the insulator bolts at the frame bracket. 3. Remove the retaining bolt and nut from the insulator to engine front support insulator bracket, and remove the insulator. Installation 1. Position the insulator to the engine front support insulator bracket and install the retaining bolt and nut. Torque to specifications. 2. Carefully lower the engine guiding the insulator bolts into the frame bracket. 3. Install the insulator to frame bracket retaining nuts and torque to specifications. ENGINE REAR SUPPORT The rear support is located at the transmission extension housing (Fig 10)
Removal 1. Support the transmission with a ftoor jack to relieve weight from the supporting crossmember. 2. Remove the retaining nuts, washers, and cotter keys from the supporting crossmember, and remove the supporting crossmember. 3. Remove the screws and washers which retain the engine rear support insulator assembly beneath the transmission.
FIG. 8 -Cooling System
4. Remove the insulator assembly. Installation 1. Position the engine rear support insulator assembly in place beneath the transmission, and install the retaining screws. Torque them to specifications. 2. Position the supporting crossmember and install the retaining washers and nuts. Torque them to specifications. 3. Install the cotter keys. If neces-
PART 8-2- 200, 250 C.I.D. SIX CYLINDER ENGINES
~ I
j
it I
FIG. 10 -
Engine Rear Support
sary, contmue tightening the two outer nuts as required to align the castellations. INTAKE MANIFOLD REPLACE· MENT. 250-2V ENGINE ONLY.
REMOVAL 1. Remove the aircleaner. 2. Remove the manifold hot water hoses. 3. Remove the fuel line fuel fil. ter to carburettor. 4. Remove choke tubes, throttle linkage, distributor vacuum and crank· case emission tubes. 5. Remove the bolts manifold to cylinder head and remove the manifold. 6. Remove the carburettor from the manifold. INSTALLATION 1. Clean all old gasket material from the cylinder head and manifold. 2. Apply sufficient grease to the manifold gaskets to hold them in position whilst the manifold is being fitted. 3. Position the gaskets on the cylinder head or manifold and assem· ble the manifold to the cylinder head. 4. If previously removed install the carburettor on the manifold using a new flange gasket. 5. Install choke tubes, throttle linkage, distributor vacuum and crank· case emission tubes. 6. Install the fuel line filter to carburettor. 7. Install the aircleaner. 8. Start engine and check carburettor adjustment. EXHAUST MANIFOLD REPLACEMENT. 250 2V ENGINE ONLY.
REMOVAL 1. Remove the intake manifold as previously outlined.
2. Loosen the alternator belt adjusting arm and remove the drive belt, and swing the alternator outboard as far as the mounting brackets will allow. 3. Loosen the muffler inlet pipe to manifold extension pipe clamp and free the pipe at the join. 4. Remove the bolts manifold to cylinder head and remove the manifold from the vehicle. INSTALLATION 1. Remove all the old gasket material from the cylinder head and manifold. 2. Using new gaskets assemble the manifold to the cylinder head and torque the bolts to specification. 3. Connect the muffler inlet pipe to the manifold extension and torque the clamp to specification. 4. Install the alternator drive belt and adjust to specification. 5. Install the intake manifold as described in previous operation. EXHAUST MANIFOLD REMOVAL 1. Remove the air cleaner. Disconnect the muffler inlet pipe from the exhaust manifold. l. Bend the exhaust manifold retaining bolt lock tabs back and remove the retaining bolts. Remove the exhaust manifold. CLEANING AND INSPECfiON Refer to page 8-15 for the cleaning and inspection procedures. INSTALLATION 1. Clean the mating surfaces of the exhaust manifold and cylinder head. Inspect manifold to muffler inlet pipe sealing ring. l. Apply graphite .. grease to the mating surface of the exhaust manifold. 3. Position the exhaust manifold on the cylinder head and install the retaining bolts and tab washers. Working from the center to the ends, torque the bolts to specifications. Lock the bolts by bending one tab of the washer over a flat on the bolt. 4. Place sealing ring on the mutfter inlet pipe. Position the muffler inlet pipe to the manifold. Install and torque the retaining nuts to specifications. 5. Install the air cleaner. Start the engine and check for exhaust leaks. VALVE ROCKER ARM SHAn ASSEMILY REMOVAL 1. Remove the air cleaner
8-27
2. Remove the effilSSion control system vent hose and valve assembly. 3. Remove the carburettor to fuel pump pipe and the carburettor to distributor vacuum line. 4. Remove the valve rocker arm cover and discard the gasket. 5. Remove the rocker arm shaft support bolts by loosening the bolts two turns at a time in sequence. Remove the rocker arm shaft assembly (Fig. 11). Remove the valve push rods.
FIG. 11- Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Removal INSTALLATION 1. Apply Lubriplate to both ends of the push rods and to the valve stem tip. 2. Install the valve push rods. Position the valve rocker arm shaft assembly on the cylinder head. 3. Install and tighten all valve rocker arm support bolts, two turns at a time in sequence, until the supports fully contact the cylinder head. Torque the bolts to specifications. 4. If any part which could affect the valve clearance has been changed, check the valve clearance following the procedure outlined under Valve Clearance-Six cylinder engines (page 8-11 ). S. Clean the valve rocker arm cover and cylinder head gasket surfaces. Coat one side of a new gasket with an oil resistant sealer and lay the cemented side of the gasket in place on the cover. Install the cover, making sure the gasket seats evenly around the head. Tighten the cover retaining bolts in two steps. First, torque the bolts to specifications; then, retorque to the same specifications two minutes after initial tightening. 6. Install the emission control system hose and valve assembly. 7. Install the air cleaner. DISASSEMBLY 1. Remove the pin and spring washer from each end of the valve rocker arm shaft. 1. Slide the valve rocker arms, springs, and supports off the shaft. Be sure to identify the parts. 3. If it is necessary to remove the plugs from each end of the shaft,
GROUP 8- ENGINE
8-28 drill or pierce the plug on one end. Use a steel rod to knock out the plug on the opposite end. Working from the open end, knock out the remaining plug. CLEANING AND INSPECTION Refer to page 8'-15 for the cleaning and inspection procedures. 'REPAIRS Refer to page 8-39 for the repair procedures. ASSEMBLY 1. Lubricate all parts with engine oil. Apply Lubriplate to the valve and push rod ends of the rocker arm. l. If the plugs were removed from the ends of the shaft, use a blunt tool or large diameter pin punch and install a plug, cup side out, in each end of the shaft. 3. Install the spring. washer and pin on one end of the shaft. 4. Install the valve rocker arms, supports, and springs in the order shown in (Fig. 12) Be sure the oH holes in the shaft are fadnc dowaward. Complete the assembly by IDstalllng the remaining spring washer and pin.
CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL 1. Drain the cooling system. Remove the air cleaner. l. Disconnect the muffler inlet pipe at the exhaust manifold. Pull the muffler inlet pipe down . 3. Disconnect the accelerator rod retracting spring. Disconnect the accelerator rod at the carburetor. 4. Disconnect the fuel inlet line at the fuel filter hose, and the distributor vacuum line at the carburetor. 5. Remove the radiator upper hose at the coolant outlet housing. 6. Disconnect the distributor vacuum line at the distributor. Disconnect the carburetor fuel inlet line at the fuel pump. Remove the lines as an assembly. 7. Disconnect the spark plug wires at the spark plugs and the temperature sending unit wire at the sending unit. 8. Remove the emission control system vent hose and valve assembly. 9. Remove the valve rocker arm cover. 10. Remove the valve rocker arm shaft assembly. Remove the valve push rods in sequence (Fig. 13). 11. Remove the remaining cylinder head bolts and remov-e . the cylinder head. Do not pry betweea
RETAINING SOL T
6A527 ( .~370347·5
•
& Ill · lJ
·.J).fl)•i
/SUPPORT 6531 • /
,.J!J)'-i
ROCKER ARM 6564 /SPRING
tlil ,
-
6587
~W ·1J;-~
l.l! PulJJo.
sHAFT 6563
PLUG
6572
ft
•
.,
,
/JI))ni/IJ
~o;SPRING ,
FRONT OF ENGINE
, WASHER 6598 -....:_- PIN ........._372929-S
1
FIG. 12- Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Assembly -Typical the cylinder head and blOck as the gasket surfaces may become damqed. Note: On 250-2V engines the inlet and exhaust manifolds must be removed before the cylinder head can be removed. INSTALLATION Note: On 250-2V engines the cylinder head is replaced first followed by the exhaust manifold then the inlet manifold. See page 8-27 for detail.
1. Clean the head and block gasket .surfaces. If the cylinder head was removed for a gasket change, check the flatness of the cylinder head and block. Install guide studs at each end of the cylinder block (Fig. 14). ..
'
.e ~ ~ ~ ~ < .;~ "~~~~,t~~ ..l~~?lt.Tl .~r-1 ~~ ' ., • { ""' { ·· -·. - . .. -a.. . . • . • , 15 (i)· 0 0 /AI" f~
11 ~.
FIG. 13- Valve Push Rod Removal 2. Do not apply sealer to six cylinder engine head gaskets. Position the gasket over the guide studs on the cylinder block. 3. Inspect the muffler inlet pipe sealing ring and replace if necessary. 4. Lift the cylinder head over the guides and slide it down carefully, guiding the exhaust manifold studs into the muffler inlet pipe. 5. Coat the thread of No. 13 bolt with a small amount of water-resistant sealer. Install, but do not tighten two bolts at opposite ends of the head to hold the head and gasket in position. Remove the guides and install the remaining bolts. Refer Fig.l5 for No. 13 bolt .
6. The cylinder head bolts are tightened in three progressive steps. Torque all the bolts in sequence (Fig. 15) to 55 ft-lbs, then to 65 ft-lbs, and finally to specifications. After the cylinder head bolts have been torqued to specifications, the bolts should not be disturbed. 7. Apply Lubriplate to both ends of the push rods. Install the push rods in their original bores, positioning the lower end of the rods into the tappet sockets. Apply Lubriplate to the valve stem tips and to the rocker arm pads. 8. Install the valve rocker arm shaft assembly following steps 1 to 4 under Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Installation. Check the valve clearance, following the procedure outlined under Valve Clearance (Part 8-1, Section 2).
9. Install the muffler inlet pipe lock washers and retaining nuts. Torque the nuts to specifications. 10. Connect the radiator upper hose at the coolant outlet housing. 11. Replace the valve rocker arm cover and torque to specifications. 12. Replace the emission control system vent hose and valve assembly. 7 / 16"-14x6" BOLT. CUT OFF HEAD, TAPER END AND SLOT FOR SCREWDRIVER.
FIG. 14- Cylinder Head Guide Studs 13. Position the distributor vacuum line and carburettor fuel inlet line on the engine, then connect the distributor vacuum line at the carburettor.
PART 8-2-. 200, 250 C.I.D. SIX CYLINDER ENGINES 1 14•• Connect the accelerator rod
retracting spring. Connect the accelerator rod at the carburettor. 15. Connect the distributor vacuum line at the distributor. Connect the carburettor fuel inlet line at the fuel pump. 16. Connect the temperature sending unit wire at the sending unit. Conrtect the spark plug wires. Be sure the wires are forced aU the way down into their sockets. 17. Fill and bleed the cooling system. 18. Start the engine and check for coolant and oil leaks.
DISASSEMBLY 1. Remove deposits from the combustion chambers and valve heads with a scraper and a wire brush before removing the valves. Be careful not to scratch the cylinder head gasket surfaces.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION Refer to page 8-15 for the cleaning and inspection procedures.
ASSEMBLY 1. If the cylinder head is being replaced, install the manifold assembly except on 2V installations. Lubricate the valve guides and valve stems with engine oil. Apply Lubriplate to the tip of the valve stems. 2." Install each valve (Fig. 17) in the valve guide from which it was removed or to which it was fitted. Install a new stem seal on the valve. 3. Install the valve spring assembly over the valve. Install the spring retainer. 4. Compress the spring and install the retainer locks (Fig. 16). 5. Measure the assembled height LOCKS\ 6518
RETAINER~~~ 6514 13' ~)
;p~~~~-.. 6513
OIL SEAL
FIG. 15 -Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Sequence 2. Compress the valve springs (Fig. 16). Remove the valve retainer locks and release the spring. 3. Remove the spring retainer, stem seal, and valve. Discard the valve stem seals. Identify all valve parts. If the cylinder head is to be replaced, remove the manifold assembly.
~~·~· #M~' 65~ INTAKE VALVE 6~07
FIG. 17- Typical Valve Assembly
FIG. 16- Compressing Valve Spring - On Bench -Typical
of the valve spring from the surface of the cylinder head spring pad to the underside of the spring retainer with dividers (Fig. 18). 6. Check the dividers against a scale. If the assembled height is greater than specifications, install the necessary 0.030-inch thick spacer(s) between the cylinder head spring pad and the valve spring to bring the assembled height to the recommended dimension. Do not install spacers unless necessary. Use of spacers in excess of recommendations will result in overstressing the valve springs
8-29
and overloading the camshaft lobes which would lead to spring breakage and wom camshaft lobes.
UNDERSIDE OF SPRING RETAINER
SURFACE OF SPRING PAD
FIG. 18- Valve Spring Assembled Height VALVE SPRING, RETAINER AND STEM SEAL REPLACEMENT Broken valve springs or defective valve stem seals and retainer may be replaced without removing the cylinder head, provided damage to the valve or valve seat has not occurred. 1. Remove the air cleaner. Remove the crankcase ventilation regulator valve from the valve rocker arm cover. Remove the fuel and vacuum pipes then remove the valve rocker arm cover. Remove the applicable spark plug. 2. Loosen the valve rocker arm shaft support bolts 2 turns at a time, in sequence, until the valve spring pressure is relieved. Remove both valve push rods of the cylinder to be serviced. 3. Install an air line with an adapter in the spark plug hole. 4. Tighten the retaining bolts just enough to seat the rocker arm shaft supports on the cylinder head. Push the rocker arm to one side and secure it in this position (Fig. 19). To move the rocker arm on either end of the shaft, it will be necessary to remove the retaining pin and spring washer and slide the rocker arm off the shaft. 5. Turn on the air supply. Air pressure may turn the crankshaft until the piston reaches the bottom of its stroke. Using the valve spring compression tool shown in (Fig. 19) compress the valve and remove the valve spring retainer locks, the spring retainer and the valve spring. If air pressure fails to bold the valve in the closed position during this operation, it can be presumed that the valve is not seating or is damaged. H this condition occurs, remove the
8-30 cylinder head for further inspection. 6. Remove the valve stem seal (Fig. 20). If air pressure has forced the piston to the bottom of the cyl· inder, any removal of air pressure will allow the valve(s) to faD into the cylinder. A rubber band, tape or string wrapped around the end of the valve stem will prevent this condition and will still allow enough travel to check the valve for binds.
FIG. 19- Compressing Valve Spring - In Chassis 7. Install a new valve stem seal. Position the spring over the valve. Install the spring retainer and sleeve. Compress the valve spring and install the valve spring retainer locks. 8. Apply Lubriplate to both ends of the push rod, the valve and push rod ends of the rocker arm, and the valve stem tip. Remove the rocker arm shaft and install the push rod(s), making sure the lower end of the rod is positioned in the valve lifter push rod cup. 9. Remove the wire securing the valve rocker arm and slide the rocker arm into position. If an end valve rocker arm was removed, slide it into position on the shaft and install the spring washer and retaining pin.
FIG. 20- Valve Stem Seal Removal
GROUP 8- ENGINE Tum off the air and remove the air line and adapter. Install the spark plug and spark plug wire. 10. Jnstall the rocker arm shaft by following the instructions under Rocker Arm Shaft Assembly Installation. 11. Replace the emission control system vent hose and valve assembly. 12. Repjace the fuel pipe and vacuum lines. 13. In.stall the valve rocker arm cover. 14. Install the air cleaner. CYLINDER FRONT COVER AND TIMING CHAIN REMOVAL 1. Drain the cooling system and the crankcase. Disconnect the radiator upper hose at the coolant outlet housing and the radiator lower hose at the water pump. On a car with automatic transmission. disconnect the transmission oil cooler lines from the radiator. 2. Remove the radiator. Remove the drive belt, fan and pulley. Using tool6306 AG. Remove the crankshaft damper. 3. Remove the cylinder front cover and gasket. 4. Rotate the crankshaft in a clockwise direction (as viewed from the front) to take up the slack on the left side of the chain. 5. Establish a reference point on the block and measure from this point to the chain. Rotate the crankshaft in the opposite direction to take up the slack on the right side of the chain. Force the left side of the chain out with the fingers and measure the distance hetween the reference point and the chain. The deflection is the difference between the two measurements. If the deflection exceeds t inch, replace the timing chain and sprockets. 6. Crank the engine until the timin~ marks are aligned as shown in (Fig. 21). Remove the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and washer. Slide both sprockets and timing chain forward and remove them as an assembly (Fig. 22). 7. Remove the oil pan and related parts. FRONT OIL SEAL REP'LACEMENT It is good practice to replace the oil seal each time the cylinder front cover is removed. 1. Drive out the oil seal with a pin punch. Clean the recess in the cover
2. Coat a new seal with grease and install the seal. Drive the seal in until it is fully seated in the recess.
TIMING MARKS
A 1370-B
FIG. 21 -Aligning Timing Marks (Fig. 23). Check the seal after installation to be sure the spring is properly positioned in the seal.
FIG. 22 - Timing Chain and Sprockets Removal CLEANING AND INSPECTION Refer to page 8-17 for the cleaning and inspection procedures. Clean the crankshaft damper following the referenced procedures. INSTALLATION 1. Oil the timing chain. Position the sprockets and timing chain on the camshaft and crankshaft. Be sure the timing marks on the sprockets and chain are positioned as shown in
FIG. 23 - Crankshaft Front Oil Seal Replacement
8-31
PART 8-2-, 200, 250 C.I.D. SIX CYLINDER ENGINES (Fig. 21). Install the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and washer. Torque the bolt to specifications. 2. Clean the cylinder front and the gasket surface of the cylinder block. Apply oil-resistant sealer to a new cylinder front cover gasket and position the gasket on the cylinder front cover. Install the cylinder front cover using the tool shown in Fig. 24. Torque the retaining bolts to specifications.
FIG. 24- Cylinder Front Cover 3. Lubricate the hub of the crankshaft damper with Lubriplate to prevent damage to the seal during installation or initial engine start. Using tool6306 AG, install the crankshaft damper. Torque the retaining bolt to specifications. 4. Install the oil pan and related parts. 5. Install the fan, pulley and drive belt. Adjust the drive belt. 6. Install the radiator. Connect the radiator upper and lower hoses. 7. Fill and bleed the cooling system. Fill the crankcase with the proper quantity and grade of engine oil. 8. Start the engine and check the ignition timing. Operate the engine at fast idle and check all hose connections and gaskets for leaks. CAMSHAn The camshaft and related parts are shown in Fig. 25. REMOVAL 1. Drain the cooling system and the crankcase. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Disconnect the radiator hoses from the coolant outlet housing and the water pump. Remove the radiator. Remove the grille. 3. Disconnect the accelerator rod retracting spring. Disconnect the accelerator rod from the carburettor.
WASHER 6278
(~ t
371643-S
CAMSHAFT
FIG. 25 -Camshaft and Related Parts 4. Disconnect the fuel inlet line and the distributor vacuum line from the carburettor. 5. Disconnect the muffler inlet pipe frotn the exhaust manifold. Pull the muffler inlet pipe iown. Remove the gasket. 6. Disconnect the distributor vacuum line from the distributor. Disconnect the carburettor fuel inlet line from the fuel pump. Remove the lines as an assembly. 7. Disconnect the spark plug wires from the spark plugs and the coil high tension lead at the coil. Remove the distributor cap and spark plug wires as an assembly. Disconnect the primary wire from the coil and remove it from the retaining clip on the cylinder head. 8. Disconnect the engine temperature sending unit wire from the sending unit. Disconnect the flexible fuel line from the fuel tank line and plug the line. Remove the distributor, the fuel pump, and the oil filter. 9. Remove the crankcase vent hose, regulatQr val~e, valve rocker arm cover and cylinder head by following steps 8 through 11 under Cylinder Head Removal- page 8-28. 10. Using a magnet, remove the valve lifters and keep them in order so that they can be installed in their original location (Fig. 26). 11. Lqosen and remove the drive belt, fan and pulley. Remove the crankshaft damper using tool 6306 AG. 12. Remove: the oil level dipstick. Remove the oil pan. Remove the oil pump and inlet tube assembly. 13. Remove the cylinder front cover and gasket. Remove the crankshaft front oil slinger. 14. Push the camshaft toward the rear of the engine. Install a dial indicator so that the indicator point is on the camshaft sprocket cap screw (Fig. 27). Zero the dial indicator. Position a large screw driver between the camshaft sprocket and the block. Pull the camshaft forward
and release it. Compare the dial indicator reading with specifications. If the end play is excessive, replace the thrust plate. 15. Remove the dial indicator. Remove the timing chain and sprockets following steps 4 and 5 under "Cylinder Front Cover and Timing Chain Removal." 16. Remove the camshaft thrust plate. Carefully remove the camshaft by pulling it toward the front of the engine. Use caution to avoid damaging the journals and lobes. etm -z
Magn;l
FIG. 26 -Valve Lifter
Removal INSTALLATION 1. Clean the oil passage that feeds the rocker arm shaft by blowing compressed air into the opening in the block. Oil the camsh:tft journals and apply Luhriplate to all the camshaft lobes. Carefully slide the camshaft through the bearings. 2. Install the thrust plate with the oil groove toward the rear of the engine and torque the retaining bolts to specifications. Replace the crankshaft front oil seal. 3. Follow steps l, 2 and 3 under Cylinder Front Cover and Timing Chain Installation and install the sprockets and timing chain, oil slinger, cylinder front cover and crankshaft damper. 4. Clean the oil pump inlet tube screen, and oil the pan and block gasket surfaces. Prime the oil pump
8-32 and install the oil pump inlet tube and oil pump and the oil pan and related parts. Install thP. oil level jipstick. 5. Install the fan and fan pulley and drive belt. Adjust the belt tension . . Install the radiator and the grille. 6. Dip the valve lifter foot in Lubriplate. Coat the remainder of each valve lifter with engine oil. Install the valve lifters in their original bores. 7. Install the cylinder head, push rods and the valve rocker arm shaft assembly by following steps 1 to 9 under Cylinder Head Installation. 8. Using a new gasket, install the fuel pump and connect the flexible fuel ,Jine. Install the oil filter. 9. Position the No. 1 piston at TDC after the compression stroke. t osition the distributor in the block with the rotor at the No. 1 firing position and the breaker points open. Install the distributor hold down clamp. 10. Connect the engine temperature sen.ding unit wire. Connect the coil primary wire. Install the distributor cap. Connect the spark plug wires and the coil high tension lead.
GROUP 8- ENGINE and adjust the ignition t1ming. Connect the distributor vacuum line to the distributor. Check for coolant and oil leaks. Adjust the engine idle speed and the idle fuel mixture. CAMSHAn REAR BEARING BORE PLUG REPLACEMENT 1. On a car with a manual-shift transmission, slide the transmissi(ln to the rear and :.:emove the clutch pressure plate and disc following the procedure in Group 5. On a car with automatic transmission, remove the transmission and converter housing following the procedure in Group 7. 2. Remove the flywheel retaining bolts and remove the flywheel and engine rear cover plate. 3. Drill a t -inch hole in the camshaft rear bearing bore plug and use a suitable tool to remove the plug (Fig. 28).
FIG. 28 -Camshaft Rear
Bearing Bore Plug Removal
FIG. 27 -Camshaft End
Play 11. Install the carburettor fuel Connect the distributor inlet line vacuum line to the carburettor. 12. Install the radiator and connect the radiator upper and lower hoses. 13. Connect the accelerator rod retracting spring. Connect the accelerator rod at the carburettor. 14. Fill and bleed the cooling system. Fill the crankcase. 15. Start the engine and check
4. Clean out the plug bore recess thoroughly. 5. Coat the flange of a new plug with oil resistant ·sealer and install it with the flange facing out and slightly below the chamfer in the bore (Fig. 29). 6. Install the engine rear cover plate, apply oil-resistant sealer to the flywheel bolts and install the flywheel. On a car with a manual-shift transmission, install the clutch pressure plate, disc, and transmission following the procedure in Group 5. On a car with automatic transmission install the transmission and converter housing following the procedure in Group 7.
FIG. 29 -Camshaft Rear
Bearing Bore Plug Installation HYDRAULIC VALVE LinER REPLACEMENT 1. Remove the cylinder head and related parts following the procedure under Cylinder Head Removal. 2. Using a magnet, remove the valve lifters (Fig. 26). Place the lifters in a rack so they can be installed in their original positions. If the lifters are stuck in their bores by excessive varnish or gum, it may be necessary to use a plier-type tool to remove the lifters . Rotate the lifter back and forth to loosen the gum and varnish which may have formed on the lifter. The internal parts of each hydraulic valve lifter assembly are matched sets. Do not intermix the parts. Keep the assemblies intact until they are to be cleaned. 3. Install new (or cleaned) hydraulic valve lifters through the push rod opening£ with a magnet (Fig. 26). 4. Install the cylinder head and related parts. DISASSEMBLY Each valve lifter is a matched assembly; therefore, the parts are not interchangeable. Disassemble and assemble each lifter carefully, keeping the assemblies in proper sequence so they will be installed in their original bores. 1. Grasp the lock ring with needle nose pliers to release it from the groove. It may be necessary to depress the plunger to fully release the lock ring. 2. Remove the push rod cup, plunger and spring. 3. Invert the plunger assembly and remove the check valve retainer by carefully prying up on it with a
8-33
PART 8·2-, 200, 250 C.I.D. SIX CYLINDER ENGINES screwdriver. Remove the check valve and spring.
CLEANING AND INSPECI'ION Refer to page 8-17 for the cleaning and inspection procedures.
ASSEMBLY A typical hydraulic valve lifter assembly is shown in Fig. 30.
LIFTER ASSEMBLY-6500
FIG. 30-Typical Valve Lifter Assembly 1. Place the plunger upside down on a clean work bench. 2. Place the check valve in position over the oil hole on the bottom of the plunger. Set the check valve spring on top of the check valve. 3. Position the check valve retainer over the check valve and spring and push the retainer down into place on the plunger. 4. Place the plunger spring and then the plunger (open end up) into the tappet body. S. Place the push rod seat in the plunger. 6. Depress the plunger and position the closed end of the lock ring in the lifter body groove. Release the plunger; then depress it again to fully seat the lock ring.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION Refer to page 8~18 for the cleaning and inspection procedures.
MAIN AND CONNECTING ROD BEARING REPLACEM~NT The main bearing inserts are selective fit. Do not file or lap bearing caps or use bearing shims tO obtain the proper bearing clearance. Selective fit main bearings are available for service in standard sizes and 0.002 inch undersize.
Standard bearings are divided into two sizes and are identified by a daub of red or blue paint. Refer to the Parts Catalog for the available sizes. Red marked bearings increase the clearance; blue marked bearings decrease the clearance. Undersize bearings, which are not selective fit, are available for use on journals that have been refinished.
MAIN BEARING 1. Drain the crankcase. Remove the oil leyel dipstick. Remove the oil pan and related parts. 2. Remove the oil pump inlet tube assembly and the oil pump. 3. Replace one bearing at a time, leaving the other bearings securely fastened . Remove the main bearing cap to which new bearings are to be installed. 4. Insert the upper bearing removal tool in the oil hole in the crankshaft. S. Rotate the crankshaft in the direction of engine rotation to force the bearing out of the block. 6. Clean the crankshaft journal. When replacing standard bearings with new bearings, it is good practice to first try to obtain the proper clearance with two blue bearing halves.
7. To install the upper main bearing, place the plain end of the bearing over the shaft on the locking tang side of the block and partially install the bearing so that the tool can be inserted in the oil hole in the crankshaft. With the tool positioned in the oil hole in the crankshaft, rotate the crankshaft in the opposite direction of engine rotation until the bearing seats itself. Remove the tool. 8. Install the cap bearing. 9. Support the crankshaft so that its weight will not compress the Plastigage used in Step 10 and provide an erroneous reading. Position a jack so that it will bear against the counterweight adjoining the bearing which is being checked. 10. Place a piece of Plastigage on the bearing surface the full width of the bearing cap and about 1/.! inch off center (Fig. 31). 11. Install the cap and torque the bolts to specifications. Do not turn the crankshaft while the Plastigage is in place. 12. Remove the cap. Using the Plastigage scale, check the width of the Plastigage. When checking the
PLACE Plastigage FULL WIDTH OF JOURNAL ABOUT Y4 INCH OFF CENTER
CHECK WIDTH OF Plastigage
--~-
ll'
INSTALLING Plastigage
0.0015" CLEARANCE
M'ASO.,NG Plastig age
FIG. 31 -Installing and
Measuring PlastigageEngine Installed width of the Plastigage, check at the widest point in order to get the minimum clearance. Check at the narrowest point in order to get the maximum clearance. The difference between the two readings is the taper. 13. If the clearance is less than the specified limits, try two red bearing halves or a combination of red and blue, depending upon the condition . If the clearance exceeds specified limits, try 0.002 inch undersize bearings in combination with blue or red bearings. The b<'aring clearance must be within specified limits. If 0.002 inch undersize main bearings are used on more than one journal, be sure they are all installed on the same side (cap or cylinder block) of the crankshaft. If the standard and 0.002 inch undersize bearings do not bring the clearance within the desired limits, refinish the crankshaft journal; then install undersize bearings. 14. If the rear main bearing is replaced, replace the lower oil seal in the rear main bearing cap as follows: Remove and discard the rear seal. If there is evidence of oil seal leakage, the upper half of the oil seal must also be replaced to assure satisfactory sealing. Clean the mating surfaces of the block and rear main bearing cap, and the rear journal oil seal groove. Preform the new seal by hand to the approximate radius of the cap. Insert the seal in the oil seal groove, seating the center of the seal first with the seal extending equally on both ends. Press the seal down
8-34 firmly with the thumb at the center of the seal, then press both ends of the seal into the groove working from the ends to the center. Position the seal forming tool as shown in Fig. 32 and complete the seal installation. After installation, cut the ends of the seal flush. Apply a thin coating of oil resistant sealer to the rear main bearing cap at the rear of the top mating surface (Fig. 32 ). Do not apply sealer to the area forward of the oil slinger groove. The upper oil seal in the block cannot be replaced with the crankshaft installed. 15. After the bearing has been fitted, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journal and bearings, then install the bearing cap. Torque the cap bolts to specifications. 16. Repeat the procedure for the remaining bearings that require replacement. 17. If the thrust bearing cap (No. 5 main beating) has been removed, install it as follows: Install the thrust bea,ring cap with the bolts finger-tight. Pry the crankshaft forward against the thrust surface of the upper half of the bearing
FIG. 32 -Seal to Rear
Bearing Cap Installation (Fig. 47). Hold the crankshaft forward and pry the thrust bearing cap to the rear (Fig. 47). This will align the thrust surfaces of both halves of the bearing. Retain the forward pressure on the crankshaft. Torque the cap bolts to specification. 18. Clean the oil pump inlet tube screen. Prime the oil pump; then install the oil pump and the inlet tube assembly.
GROUP 8- ENGINE 19. Position the oil pan gaskets on the oil pan. Position the oil pan front seal on the cylinder front cover. Position the oil pan rear seal on the rear main bearing cap. Install the oil pan and related parts. Install the oil level dipstick. 20. Fill the crankcase. Start the engine and check for oil pressure. Operate the engine at fast idle and check for oil leak~. CONNECTING ROD BEARING 1. Follow steps 1 and 2 under Main Bearing Replacement. 2. Turn the crankshaft until the connecting rod to which new bearings are to be fitted is down. Remove the connecting rod cap. Remove the bearing inserts from the rod and cap. 3. Be sure the bearing inserts and the bearing bore in the connecting rod and cap are clean. Foreign material under the inserts will distort the bearing and cause a failure. 4. Clean the crankshaft journal. 5. Install the bearing inserts in the connecting rod and cap with the tangs fitting in the slot provided. 6. Pull the connecting rod assembly down firmly on the crankshaft journal. 7. Place a . piece of Plastigage on the lower bearing surface, the full width of the cap and about 1-4 inch off center. 8. Install the cap and torque the connecting rod nuts to specification. Do not tum the crankshaft while the Plastigage Is in place. 9. Remove the cap; then, using the Plastigage scale, check the width of the Plastigage. When checking the width of the Plastigage, check at the widest point in order to get the minimum clearance. Check at the narrowest point in order to get the maximum clearance. The difference between the two readings is the taper. 10. If the clearance is less than the specified limits, try two red bearing halves or a combination of red and blue depending upon the condition. If the clearance exceeds the specified limits, try 0.002 inch undersize bearings in combination with blue "or red bearings. The bearing clearance must be within specified Umits•. If proper clearance cannot · be
achieved with standard or 0.002 undersize bearings, the crankshaft will have to be ground undersize and
fitted with undersize bearings. After the bearing has been fitted, clean and apply a light coat of engine oil to the journal and bearings. Install the connecting rod cap. Torque the nuts to specifications. 11. Repeat the procedure for the remaining connecting rods that require new bearings. 12. Follow steps 18 through 20 under Main Bearing Replacement.
NOTCH TO FRONT OF ENGINE
FIG. 33 .-Piston
Installation CLEANING AND INSPECDON Refer to page 8 -18 for the cleaning and inspection procedures. PISTONS AND CONNECTING RODS
REMOVAL 1. Drain the cooling system and the crankcase. 2. Refer to Cylinder Head Removal and remove the cylinder head and related parts. 3. Remove the oil pan and related parts. Remove the oil pump inlet tube and the oil pump. 4. Turn the crankshaft until the piston to be removed is at the bottom of its travel and place a cloth on the piston head to collect the cuttings. Remove any ridge and/ or deposits from the upper end of the cylinder bores. Remove the cylinder ridge with a ridge cutter. Follow the instructions furnished by the tool manufacturer. Never cut into the ring travel area in excess of 1/32 inch when removing ridges. 5. Make sure all the connecting rod caps are marked so that they can be installed in their original positions. Remove the connecting rod cap. 6. Push the connecting rod and piston assembly out the top of the cylinder with the handle end of a hammer. Avoid damage to the crankpin or the cylinder wall when removing the piston and rod.
PART 8-2- 200, 250 C.I.D. SIX CYLINDER ENGINES
8-35
INSTALLATION 1. Clean the oil pump inlet tube and the oil pan and block gasket surfaces. 2. Oil the piston rings, pistons and scr~en,
FIG. 34-Typical
Connecting Rod Side
Clearance cylinder walls with light engine oil. 3. Be sure to install the pistons in the same cylinders from which they were removed, or to which they were fitted. The connecting rod and bearing caps are numbered from 1 to 6 beginning at the front of the engine. The numbers on the connecting rod and bearing cap must be on the same side when installed in the cylinder bore. If a connecting rod is ever transposed from one block or cylin· der to another, new bearings should be fitted and the connecting rod should be numbered to correspond with the new cylinder. 4. Make sure the ring gaps are properly spaced around the circumference of the piston. Install a piston ring compressor on the piston and push the piston in with a hammer handle until it is slightly below the top of the cylinder (Fig. 33). Be sure to guide the connecting rods to avoid damaging the crankshaft journals. Install the piston with the notch in the piston head toward the front of the engine. 5. Check the clearancP. of each bearing following the procedure und"r "Connecting Rod Bearing Replacement." 6. After the bearings have been fitted, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journals and bearings. 7. Turn the crankshaft throw to the bottom of its stroke, then push the piston all the way down until the connecting rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal. Install the connecting rod cap. Torque the nuts to specifications. 8. After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the connecting rod side clearance on each crankshaft journal (Fig. 34).
~ ' r
INSERT ERED PILOT PISTON PIN
Tool- T68P-6 J 35 . A Cup Detail J
FIG. 35 -
Removing Piston Pin
9. Prime the oil pump. Install the oil pump and the oil pump inlet tube. Install the oil pan and related parts. 10. Install the cylinder head by following steps 1 through 17 under Cylinder Head Installation. 11. Fill the crankcase. 12. Start the engine and check for oil pressure. Operate the engine at fast idle and check for oil and coolant leaks. 13. Check and adjust the ignition timing, engine idle speed and the fuel mixture. 14. Install the air cleaner.
DISASSEMBLY 1. Remvve the bearing inserts from the connecting rod and cap. 2. Mark the pistons and pins to assure assembly with the same rod and installation in the same cylinders from which they were removed. 3. Remove the piston pin from the piston and connecting rod usinl the tool shown in Fig. 35. Remove the piston rings.
CLEANING AND INSPECJ'ION Refer to page 8·18 for the cleaning and inspection procedures.
FIG. 36 -Typical Piston,
Connecting Rod and Related Parts REPAIRS To fit new pistons, pins or rings, refer to page 8-14
ASSEMBLY The piston, connecting rod and related parts are shown in Fig. 36. Check the fit of a new piston In the cyUnder bore before assembUog the piston and piston pin to the connectIng rod. The piston pin bore of a connect· ing rod and the diameter of the piston pin must be within specifications. Refer to page 8-69. 1. Apply a light coat of engine oil to all parts. Assemble the piston to the connecting rod with the on squirt hole In the connectblg rod and the indentation in the piston positioned as shown in F1g. 37. 2. Start the piston pin in the piston and connecting rod (this may require a very light tap with a mallet). Using an Arbor Press, press the piston pin through the piston and connecting
GROUP 8- ENGINE
8-36 rod until the pin is centered in the piston. 3. Check the end gap of all piston rings. It must be within specifications. Follow the instructions contained on the piston ring package and install the piston rings. 4. Check the ring side clearance of the compression rings with a feeler gauge. Refer to Fitting Piston Rings on page 8-14. 5. Be sure the bearing inserts and the bearing bore in the connecting rod and cap Me clean. Foreign material under the inserts will distort the bearing and cause a failure. Install the bearing inserts in the connecting rod and cap with the tangs fitting in the slots provided.
FLYWHEEL REMOVAL 1. On a manual-shift transmission, remove the tran.>mission, dutch pressure plate and disc, following the procedures in Group S. Do not drain the transmission. On a car with automatic transmission, remove the transmission and converter housing following the procedure in Group 7. Do not drain the transmission. l. Remove the flywheel retaining bolts and remove the flywheel.
l. On a manual-shift transmission, install the clutch pressure plate, disc, and the transmission following ...the procedures in Group S. On a car with automatic transmission, install the converter housing and transmission following the procedure in Group 7. It is not necessary to adjust the transmission, when it bas been removed only for flywheel removal.
CLUTCH PILOT BEARING REPLACEMENT Inspection procedures are outlined under Flywheel Cleaning and Inspection on page 8-17. 1. Remove the transmission, clutch pressure plate, and disc following the procedures in Group S. 2. Using suitable tools, remove the pilot bearing (Fig. 38). 3. Coat the pilot bearing bore in the crankshaft with a small quantity of wheel bearing lubricant. Avoid using too milch lubricant as it may be thrown onto the clutch disc when the clutch revolves. 4. Using suitable tool install the pilot service bearing (Fig. 39). CLUTCH PILOT BEARING.
CLEANING AND INSPECDON Refer to page 8-18 for the cleaning and inspection procedures. REPAIRS To check flywheel face runout, refer to page 8-10.
FIG. 39 -Typical Clutch Pilot Service Bearing Installation 3. Operate the engine at fast idle, and cht!ck for oil leaks. If oil leaks are evident, perform the necessary repairs to correct the leakage. Check the oil level and fill the crankcase if necessary.
OIL PAN REMOVAL 1. Drain the crankcase. l. Remove the oil level dipstick and the flywheel housing inspection cover. 3. Remove the stabilizer bar. 4. Remove the oil pan and gasket. 5. Remove the oil pump inlet tube and screen assembly. CLEANING AND INSPECI'ION Refer to Page 8-19 for the cieaning and inspection procedures.
INSTALLATION 1. Position the ~ywheel on the
INSTALLATION 1. Clean and install the oil pump
t
FRONT OF ENGINE
I
FIG. 38 -Typical Clutch Pilot Bearing Removal 5. Install the clutch pressure plate, disc, and the transmission following the procedures in Group 5.
INDENTATION NOTCH
FIG. 37-Typical Piston
and Connecting Rod Assembly crankshaft flange. Apply oil-resistant sealer to the retaining bolts. Install and torque the bolts in sequence across from each other to specifications.
OIL FILTER REPLACEMENT 1. Place a drip pan under the filter. Unscrew the filter from the adapter fitting. Clean the adapter filter recess. l. Coat the gasket on the replacement filter with oil. Position the filter on the adapter fitting. Hand tighten the filter unfil the gasket contacts the adapter face, then advance it lh turn.
FIG. 40 -Oil Pump Inlet
Tube· Installed
PART 8·2-, 200, 250 CJ.D. SIX CYLINDER ENGINES 5. Hold the oil pan in place against the block and install a bolt, finger-tight, on each side of the oil pan. Install the remaining bolts. Torque the bolts from the center outward in each direction to specifications. 6. Install the stabilizer bar.
~ .........
INLET TUBE ASSEMBLY
GASKET
• 34806 5
6622~ •
•
6626 ·t-34806-S 20346
20426·5
-Typical Oil Pump Assembly FIG. 42
-Oil Pan Gaskets and Seals Installed FIG. 41
inlet tube and screen assembly (Fig. 40). 2. Clean the gasket surfaces of the block and oil pan. The oil pan has a two-piece gasket. Coat the block surface and the oil pan gasket surface with oil-resistant sealer. Position the oil pan gaskets on the cylinder block (Fig. 41). 3. Position the oil pan front seal on · the cylinder front cover (Fig. 41).
Be sure the tabs on the seal are over the oil pan gasket. 4. Position the oil pan rear seal on the rear main bearing cap (Fig. 41).
Be sure the tabs pn the seal are over the oil pan gasket.
7. Install the oil level dipstick. Fill the crankcase with the proper grade and quantity of engine oil. Operate the engine and check for oil leaks. OIL PUMP REMOVAL 1. Remove the oil pan and related parts as outlined under Oil Pan Removal. 2. Remove the oil pump retaining bolts and remove the oil pump, gasket, and intermediate drive shaft. INSTALLATION 1. Prime the oil pump by filling either the inlet or outlet port with engine oil. Rotate the pump shaft to distribute the oil within the pump body. 2. Position the intermediate drive shaft into the distributor socket.
8-37
3. Position a new gasket on the pump housing. Insert the intermediate drive shaft :nto the oil pump. Install the pump and shaft as an assembly. Do not attempt to force the pump into position if it will not seat readHy. The drive shaft hex may be misaligned with the distributor shaft. To align, rotate the intermediate drive shaft into a new position. Torque the oil pump retaining screws to specifications. 4. Install the oil pan and related parts as outlined under Oil Pan Installation. DISASSEMBLY 1. Remove the oil inlet tube from the oil pump and remove the gasket. 2. Remove the cover retaining screws, and remove the cover. Remove the inner rotor and shaft assembly, and remove the outer race. 3. Insert a self-threading sheet metal screw of the proper diameter into the oil pressure relief valve chamber cap and· pull the cap out of the chamber. Remove the spring and plunger. CLEANING AND INSPECTION for Refer to Page 8'-19 the cleaning and inspection procedures. ASSEMBLY The oil pump assembly is shown in Fig. 42. 1. Oil all parts thoroughly. 2. Install the oil pressure relief valve plunger, spring, and a new cap. 3. Install the outer race, and the inner rotor and shaft assembly. Be sure the Identification mark on the rotor and on the outer race both face to the bottom of the pump. The inner rotor and shaft, and the outer race are serviced as an assembly. One part should not be replaced without replacing the other. InstaD the cover and torque the cover retaining screws to specifications. 4. Position a new gasket and the oil inlet tube on the oil pump and install the retaining bolts.
GROUP 8- ENGINE
8-38
EJ
ENGINE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
REMOVAL 1. Remove the bonnet. l. Drain the cooling system and the crankcase. 3. Remove the air cleaner. Disconnect the battery ground cable at the cylinder head, and at the battery. Disconnect the radiator upper hose at the water outlet housing and the radiator lower hose at the water pump. On a car with automatic transmission disconnect the transmission oil cooler lines from the radiator. 4. Remove the radiator. Remove the drive belt, fan, and pulley. 5. On a car equipped with air conditioning remove the compressor, leaving hoses attached. Place a suitably sized sheet of hardboard or similar material between the air conditioning heat exchanger and the engine to prevent accidental damage occurring to the exchanger. 6. Disconnect the heater hoses from the water pump. Disconnect the alternator wires from the alternator, the starter cable from the starter, the accelerator rod and the choke control cable from the carburettt>r.
A2017-A
FIG. 43 -Engine Lifting
Hook 7. Disconnect the flexible fuel line at the fuel tank line and plug the fuel tank line. 8. Disconnect the coil primary wire at the coil. Disconnect the oil pressure and the water temperature sending unit wires at the sending units. 9. On 250-2V engines remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds as des· cribed on page 8-27. 10. Remove the starter. On a car with a manual-shift transmission, disconnect the clutch retracting spring. Disconnect the
slave cylinder from the clutch housing and suitably support it clear of the transmission. 11. Raise the car. Remove the flywheel or converter housing upper retaining bolts through the access holes in the underbody. 12.. Disconnect the muffler inlet pipe at the exhaust manifold. Loosen the inlet pipe clamp and slide it off the support bracket on the engine. Disconnect the engine right and left mount at the underbody bracket. Remove the flywheel or converter housing cover. On a car with a manual-shift transmission, remove the flywheel housing lower retaining bolts. On a car with automatic transmis· sion, disconnect the converter from the flywheel. Remove the converter housing lower retaining bolts. Lower the car. Support the transmission and flywheel or converter housing with a jack. 13. Attach the engine lifting hook (Fig. 43). Carefully lift the engine out of rne engine compartment. Install the engme on a work stand.
INSTALLATION
4. Remove the engine lifting hooks. Install the flywheel or con· verter housing upper retaining bolts. 5. On 250-2V engines install the starter motor and the exhaust and inlet manifolds as described on page 8·27 6. Remove the jack from the transmission. Raise the car. 7. Remove the guide pin and install the flywheel or converter housing lower retaining bolts. On a car with automatic transmission, attach the converter to the flywheel and torque the retaining nuts to specifications. 8. Install the flywheel orconverter housing dust cover. On a car with a manual-shift transmission, install the clutch equalizer shaft and arm bracket. Connect the clutch retracting spring. 9. Install the engine left and right mount to the underbody bracket. Install the sediment bowl on the fuel pump. 10. Remove the plug from the fuel tank line and connect the flexible fuel line to the fuel tank line. Install the exhaust manifold to muffler inlet pi~ retaining lock washers and nuts. Torque the nuts to specifications. Position the inlet pipe clamp on the support bracket on the engine and tighten the clamp.
1. Install guide pins in the fly· wheel or converter housing bolt holes in the rear of the engine. Place a new gasket over the studs of the exhaust manifold. l. Carefully lower the engine into the engine compartment. 3. Make sure the studs on the ex· haust manifold are aligned with the boles in the muffler inlet pipe and the guide pins in the block engage the holes in the flywheel housing. On a car with automatic transmission, start the converter pilot into the crankshaft. On a car with a manual-shift transmission, start the transmission main drive gear into the clutch disc. It may be necessary to adjust the position of the transmission in relation to the engine if the input shaft will not enter the clutch disc. U the eDgine lump up after tbe shaft enten, tum the Cl'llllksWt slowly (tnmsmisslon la lear) undl the sWt spUnes mesh with the clutch disc 5pUnes.
11 . Lower the car. Connect the oil pressure and the engine temperature sending unit wires. Connect the coil primary wire. Connect the accelerator rod. Connect and adjust the choke control cable. 12. Install the starter motor. Connect the starter cable. Connect the alternator wires. Connect the battery ground cable. 13. Remove the hardboard and install the air conditioning compressor. Install the pulley, fan, and drive belt. Adjust the drive belt tension. Install the radiator. Connect the radiator upper and lower hoses. Fill and bleed the cooling system. Fill the crankcase with the proper grade and quantity of engine oil. 14. Install and adjust the bonnet. 15. Operate the engine at fast idle and check all gaskets and hose connections for leaks. On a car with automatic transmission, check the transmission control linkage (Group 7). 16. Install the air cleaner.
PART 8-2-
rJ
200, 250 C.I.D. SIX CYLINDER ENGINES
8-39
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS CLUTCH POLOT BEARINu 7600
MAIN BEARING CAPS
BOLT-6345A
A2230-C
FIG. 44-Typical 200 & 250 Six Crankshaft To perform the operations in this section, it will be necessary to remove the engine from the car and install it on a work stand. When installing nuts or bolts that must be torqued (refer to Page 8-70 for torque specifications), oil the threads with light weight engine oil. Do not oU threads that require «~H resistant or water-resistant sealer.
CRANKSHAFT REMOVAL The crankshaft and related parts are shown in Fig. 44.
1. Loosen the alternator adjusting bolts and remove the fan belt. Remove the oil level dipstick. 2. Remove the accessory drive pulley (if so equipped). Remove the crankshaft damper retaining bolt and washer. Remove the crankshaft vibration damper using tool 6306 AG. 3. Remove the cylinder front cover. 4. Check the timing chain deflection, then remove the timing chain and sprockets by following steps 4 and 5 under Cylinder Front Cover and Timing Chain Removal.
5. Invert the engine on the work stand. Remove the flywheel. Remove the oil pan and gasket. Remove the oil pump. 6. Make sure all bearing caps (main and connecting rod) are marked so that they can be installed in their original locations. Turn the crankshaft until the connecting rod from which the cap is being removed is down. Remove the connecting rod cap. Push the connecting rod and piston assembly up in the cylinder. Repeat for the remaining caps. 7. Remove the main bearing caps. 8. Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the block so that the thrust bearing surfaces are not damaged. Handle the cranuhaft with care to avoid possible fracture or daDulp to the fioisbed surfaces. CLEANING AND INSPECTION Refer to page 8-17 for the cleaning and inspection procedures. Be sure the oil seal surfaces on the crankshaft and crankshaft damper are properly cleaned. REPAIRS To refinish journals, dress minor
imperfections, etc., refer to Page 8-1 4 Section 2. INSTALLATION 1. Remove the rear journal oil seal from the block and rear main bearing cap. l. Remove the main bearing inserts from the block and bearing caps. 3. Remove the connecting rod bearing inserts from the connecting rods and caps. 4. Clean the rear journal oil seal grooves. Install a new rear journal oil seal in the block (Fig. 45) and rear main bearing cap (Fig. 32) .After installation, cut the ends of the seals ftush. 5. Apply a thin coating of oil resistant sealer to the rear main bearing cap at the rear of the top mating surface (Fig. 32) . Do not apply sealer to the ana forward of the oU Jlla&er groove. 6. If the crankshaft main bearing journals have been refinished to a definite undersize, install the correct undersize bearings. Be sure the bearing inserts and bearing bores are clean. Foreign material under the in-
8-40
GROUP 8- ENGINE PLACE Plostigoge FULL WIDTH OF JOURNAL ABOUT '/4 INCH OFF CENTER
CHECK WIDTH OF Plostigoge
PLASTIGAGE A1023-A
FIG. 46 -Installing
and Measuring PlastigageEngine on Work Stand 17. lnstail a dial indicator so that the contact point rests against the crankshaft flange and the indicator axis is parallel to the crankshaft axis ~
A1397-B
-Rear Oil Seal to Block Installation
FIG. 45
serts will distort the bearina and cause a failure. 7. Place the upper main bearing inserts in position in the bores with the tang fitting in the slot provided. 8. Install the lower main bearing inserts in the bearing caps. 9. Carefully lower the crankshaft into place. Be careful not to damage the bearing surfaces. 10. Check the clearance of each main bearing. Place a piece of Plastigage on the crankshaft journal the full width of the journal and about ! inch off centre (Fig. 46). Follow steps 11 through 13 under Main Bearing Replacement. 11. After the bearings have been fitted, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journals and bearings. Install all the bearing caps, except the thrust bearing cap No.5 bearing. Be sure that the main bearing caps are installed in their original locations. Torque the bearing cap bolts to specifications. 12. Install the thrust bearing cap with the bolts finger-tight. 13. Pry the crankshaft forward against the thrust surface of the upper half of the bearing (Fig. 47). 14. Hold the crankshaft forward and pry the thrust bearing cap to the rear (Fig. 47). This will align the thrust surfaces of both halves of the bearing. IS. Retain the forward pressure on the crankshaft. Torque the cap bolts to specifications. 16. Force the crankshaft toward the rear of the engine.
18. Zero the dial indicator. Push the crankshaft forward and note the reading on the dial. 19. If the end play exceeds specifications, replace the thrust bearing. If the end play is less than the minimum limit, inspect the thrust bearing faces for scratches, burrs, nicks, or dirt. If the thrust faces are not
PRY CAP BACKWARD
defective or dirty, they probably were not aligned properly. Install the thrust bearing and align the faces following the recommended procedure (steps 12, 13, 14, and 15). Check the end play which should be within specifications. 20. Install new bearing inserts in the connecting rods and caps. Check the clearance of each bearing following the procedure under Connecting Rod Bearing Replacement. 21. If the bearing clearances are to specifications, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journals and bearings. 22. Turn the crankshaft throw to the bottom of its stroke. Push the piston all the way down until the rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal. 23. Install the connecting rod cap. Torque the nuts to specifications. 24. After the piston and connecting· rod assemblies have been installed, check the connecting rod side clearance on each connecting rod crankshaft journal (Fig. 34) 25. Turn the engine on the work stand so that the front end is up. Install the timing chain and sprockets, cylinder front cover and crankshaft pulley or damper, following steps 1 thru 3 under Cylinder Front Cover and Timing Chain Installation. 26. Clean the oil pan, oil pump, and oil pump screen. 27. Prime and install the oil pump following steps 1, 2, and 3 under Oil Pump Installation. Install the oil pan following steps 2 through 5 under Oil Pan Installation. 28. Position the flywheel on the crankshaft. Apply oil-resistant sealer to the flywheel retaining bolts. Install and torque the retaining bolts to specifications. On a flywheel for a manual-shift transmission, use a suitable tool to locate the clutch disc. Install the pressure plate. · 29. Turn the engine on the work stand so that the engine is in the normal position . Install the oil level dipstick . Install and adjust the drive belt. 3Q. Remove the engine from the work stand and install it in the car.
CAMSHAFT BEARING REPLACEMENT
FIG. 47-Typical
Thrust Bearing Alignment
The camshaft bearings are available pre-finished to size and require no reaming for standard and 0.015inch undersize journal diameters.
PART 8·2-. 200, 250 C.I.D. SIX CYLINDER ENGINES THRUST BEARING
CAMSHAFT BEARING (LOOSE)
FIG. 48- Typical Camshaft Bearing Replacement 1. Remove the ftywlleel and the camshaft. Remove the rear bearing bore'plug (Fig. 28). 2. Remove the camshaft bearings with the tool shown in Fig. 48. 3. Fit the tool shaft and adaptors to the camshaft bearing tunnel bores, position two adaptors as guides to locate the shaft and one behind the bearing to be removed, fit the slotted collar to the shaft behind the adaptor being used to withdraw the bearing. Ensure that it fits snugly on the shaft. Attach the U plate on the front of the shaft, the pin engaging with the keyway in the shaft. Fit the thrust bearing and wing nut, tighten slowly and remove the bearing from the block. 4. Repeat the procedure for each bearing. 5. Replacement. Check bearing bores for scratches and burrs. Position the new bearing on adaptor and replace with similar procedure as for removal. Align the oil holes in the bearings with the oil holes in the cylinder block when the bearings are installed. Repeat the pro<:edure for each bearing. Be sure the front bearing is installed 0.115" -0.125" below the front face of the cylinder block. 6. Clean out the f amshaft rear bearing bore plug recess, thoroughly. Coat the flange of a new plug with oil-resistant sealer and install the plug with the flange edge of the plug facing outward. 7. Install the camshaft, crankshaft, flywheel and related parts, following the appropriate procedures on page 8 ·3 i , except do not check connecting rod and main bearing clearances as a part of Camshaft Bearing Replacement. Install the eng· ine in the car.
CYLINDER ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT
DISASSEMBLY Follow steps 1 to 3, 5 to 13, and 24 under Engine Disassembly. Remove the cylinder assembly from the work stand. CLEANING Clean the gasket and seal surfaces of all parts and assemblies (refer to Page 8-19.
ASSEMBLY Install the replacement cylinder block assembly on a work stapd. Transfer all parts removed from the old cylinder assembly to the new cylinder assembly, following the procedures in steps 28 to 44, 47 to 50, 54 and 56 to 58 under Engine Assembly. Check all assembly clearances.
CYLINDER BLOCK REPLACEMENT DISASSEMBLY Follow steps 1 to 3, 5 to 19, 21 and 24 under Engine Disassembly. Remove the cylinder assembly from the work stand. CLEANING Clean the gasket and seal surfaces of all parts and assemblies (refer to Page 8-19. ASSEMBLY Install the replacement cylinder block assembly on a work stand. Transfer all parts removed from the old cylinder assembly to the new cylinder assembly, following the procedures in steps 1 to 4, 6 to 9, 11 to 21, 28 to 50, 54 and 56 to 58 under Engine Assembly. Check all assembly clearances. ENGINE DISASSEMILY 1. Disconnect the distributor vacuum line at the carburettor. 2. Disconnect the carburettor fuel inlet line at the fuel pump. Disconnect the distributor vacuum line
8-41
at the distributor. Remove the fuel inlet line and distributor vacuum line as an assembly. 3. Remove the carburettor and gasket. Remove the exhaust manifold. (Previously removed on 250-2V) 4. Remove the coil. Remove the distributor cap and spark plug wires as an assembly. Remove the distributor, fuel pump, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter and oil filter mounting insert. Remove the spark plugs. 5. Remove the valve rocker arm cover. Remove the valve rocker arm shaft assembly (Fig. 12) by removing the support bolts evenly and equally 2 turns at a time. 6. Remove the valve push rods in sequence and. identify them so that they can be installed in their original positions (Fig. 13). 7. Remove all cylinder head bolts. Lift the cylinder head assembly off the engine. Do not pry between the bead and block as the gasket surfaces may become damaged. Usi'lg a magnet, remove the valve lifters and 'keep them in order so they can be installed in their original location (Fig. 26). On a flywheel for a manual-shift transmission, mark the pressure plate cover so that it can be replaced in the same position. Remove the clutch . pressure plate and cover assembly. Remove the flywheel. Remove the clutch pilot bearing (Fig. 3Y) and engine rear cover plate. 8. Remove the dipstick and the oil pan. Discard the gasket and seals. 9. Remove the oil pump and inlet tube assembly. Discard the oil pump gasket. 10. Loosen the alternator mounting bolts and disconnect the alternator adjusting arm at the water pump. Remove the drive belt. 11. Remove the alternator, and the water pump. Remove the crankshaft damper. Remove the damper by using tool 6306 AG. 12. Remove the cylinder front cover. Discard the gasket. Check the camshaft end play by following step 15 under Camshaft Removal. Check timing chain deflection by following step 4 under Cylinder Front Cover Removal. 13. Remove the camshaft sprocket re.taining bolt and washer. Slide both sprockets and the timing chain forward and remove them as an assembly (Fig. 22). 14. Remove any ridges and/ or
8-42 deposits from the upper end of the cylinder bores. Remove the cylinder ridges with a ridge cutter. Follow the instructions furnished by the tool manufacturer. Never cut into the ring travel area in excess of 1/ 32 inch when removing ridges. 15. Make sure all bearing caps (main and connecting rod) are marked so they can be installed in their original locations. Turn the crankshaft until the connecting rod being removed is down. Remove the connecting rod cap. 16. Push the connecting rod and piston assembly out the top of the cylinder with the handle end of a hammer. Avoid damage to the crankpinorthecylinderwall when removing the piston and rod. 17. Remove the bearing inserts from the connecting rods and caps. Remove the main bearing caps. 18. Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the cylinder block so that the thrust bearing surfaces are not damaged. Handle the crankshaft with care to avoid possible fracture or damage to the finished surfaces. 19. Remove the rear journal oil seal from the block and rear main bearing cap. Remove the main bearing inserts from the block and bearing caps. 20. Remove the camshaft thrust plate. Carefully remove the camshaft by pulling it toward the front of the engine. Use caution to avoia damaging the journals and lobes. 21. Remove the camshaft rear bearing bore plug (Fig. 28). 22. Remove the camshaft bearings (Fig. 48). 23. Remove the dipstick tube and the plug or drain. ENGINE ASSEMBLY 1. Install the camshaft bearings and rear bore plug by following steps 3 and 4 under Camshaft Bearing Replacement. 2. The camshaft and related parts are shown in Fig. 25. Oil the camshaft journals and apply Lubriplate to all camshaft lobes. Carefully slide the camshaft through the bearings. 3. Install the thrust plate. Torque the retaining screws to specifications. 4. The crankshaft and related parts are shown in Fig. 44. Be sure that the rear journal oil seal grooves are clean. Install a new rear journal oil seal in the Block (Fig. 45) and rear main bearing cap (Fig. 32).
GROUP 8- ENGINE After installation, cut the ends of the seals flush. 5. If the crankshaft main bearing journals have been refinished to a definite undersize, install the correct undersize bearings. Be sure the bearing bores are clean. Place the upper main bearing inserts m position in the bore with the tang fitting in the slot provided. 6. Install the lower main bearing inserts in the bearing caps. 7. Carefully lower the crankshaft into place. Be careful not to damage the bearing surfaces. 8. Check the clearance of each main bearing following steps 10 through 13 under Main Bearing Replacement. In step 10, place the Plastigage on the crankshaft journal instead of in the bearing cap. (Fig. 46). 9. After the bearings have been fitted, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journals and bearings. Install all the bearing caps, except the thrust bearing cap No. 5 bearing. Be sure that the main bearing caps are installed in their original locations. Torque the bearing cap bolts to specifications. 10. Install the thrust bearing cap by following steps 12 through 15 under Crankshaft Installation. 11. Check the crankshaft end play by following steps 17 through 19 under "Crankshaft Installation." 12. Turn the engine on the work stand so that the front end is up. 13. Oil the piston rings, pistons, and cylinder walls with light engine oil. 14. Be sure to install the pistons in the same cylinders from which they were removed, or to which they were fitted. The connecting rod and bearing cap are numbered from 1 to 6 beginning at the front of the engine. The numbers on the connecting rod and bearing cap must be on the same side when installed In the cylinder bore. If a conqecting rod is ever transposed from one block or cylinder to another, new bearings should be fitted and the connecting rod should be numbered to correspond with the new cyUnder number. 15. Make sure the ring gaps are properly spaced around the circumference of the piston. 16. Install a piston ring compressor on the piston and push the piston in with a hammer handle until it is slightly below the top of the cylinder (Fig. 33 ~ Be sure to guide the con-
necting rods to avoid damaging the crankshaft journals. Install the piston with the notch in the piston head toward the front of the engine. 17. Check the clearance of each bearing following the procedure under Connecting RC>d Bearing Replacement. 18. After the bearings have been fitted, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journals and bearings. 19. Turn the crankshaft throw to the bottom of its stroke. Push the piston all the way down until the connecting rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal. 20. Install the connecting rod cap. Torque the nuts to specifications. 21. After the piston and connect· ing rod assemblies have been installed, check the connecting rod side clearance on each crankshaft journal (Fig. 34)
22. Lubricate the timing chain and sprockets with engine oil. Place the keys in position in the slots on the crankshaft and camshaft. 23. Oil the timing chain. Position the sprockets and timing chain on the camshaft and crankshaft. Be sure the timing marks on the sprockets and chain are positioned as shown in Fig. 21. 24. Install the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and washer. Torque the bolt to specifications. 25. Clean the cylinder front cover and the gasket surface of the cylinder block. 26. Install a new crankshaft front oil seal. 27. Coat the gasket surface of the block and the cover with oil-resistant sealer. Position a new gasket on the block. 28. Using tool 6019-A, install the cylinder front cover on the block. Torque the screws to specifications. Apply Lubriplate to the seal surface, and to the seal running surface of the damper. 29. Line up the crankshaft damper keyway with the key on the crankshaft. 30. Install the crankshaft damper. 31. Install the water pump, alternator, fan pulley, and fan. Install and adjust the drive belt. 32. Prime the oil pump by filling either the inlet or outlet port with engine oil. Rotate the pump shaft to distribute the oil within the pump body. 33. Install the oil pump. Clean and install the oil inlet tube assembly.
PART 8-2- 200, 250 C.I.D. SIX CYLINDER ENGINES Using a new gasket, install the oil pump. Clean and install the oil inlet tube assembly. 34. Make sure the gasket surfaces of the block and oil pan are clean. 35. Coat the block surface and oil pan gasket surface with oil-resistant sealer and position the gasket on the block (Fig. 41). 36. Install the oil pan front seal on the cylinder front cover and the oil pan rear seal on the rear main bearing cap (Fig. 41). Be sure the tabs on the seals are over the oil pan gasket. 37. Position the oil pan on the block. Install the retaining screws. Torque the screws from the center outward in each direction to specifications. 38 . .Install the clutch pilot bearing (Fig. 39). Install the engine rear cover plate, position the flywheel on the crankshaft and install the retaining bolts. Torque the bolts to specifications. On a manual shift transmission use a suitable tool to locate the disc. Install the pressure plate. Torque the retaining bolts to specifications. 39. Using a new gasket, install the fuel pump. 40. Turn the crankshaft until No. 1 cylinder is at TDC after the compression stroke. Position the distributor and intermediate drive shaft into the block with the rotor at the No. 1 firing position and the breaker points open. Install the hold down clamp. Make sure the oU pump Ia· termedlate drive shaft Is properly seated Ia the oU pump. It may be aec ~asary to reposition the later· mediate shaft Ill order to eng111e It In the oil pump. 41. Instali the oil filter insert and oil filter assembly.
41. Dip the valve lifter foot in Lubriplate. Coat the remainder of each valve lifter with engine oil. Install the lifters in their original bores. 43. Clean the head and block gasket surfaces. 44. Inspect the head for any damage and repair as necessary. 45. Do not apply sealer to the gasket on six cylinder engines. Install the cylinder head guide studs (Fig. 14). Position the gasket over the guide studs on the cylinder block. 46. Lift the cylinder head over the guides and slide it down carefully. Before installing the cylinder head bolts, coat the thread of the end bolt for the right side of the cylinder head with a small amount of water resistant sealer. Install, but do not tighten, two bolts at opposite ends of the head to hold the head and gasket in position. Remove the guides, then install the remaining bolts. 47. The cylinder head bolts are to:-qued in three progressive steps. Follow the sequence shown in Fig. 14. Torque the bolts to 55 ft-Ibs; then torque them to 65 ft-lbs. Finally, torque the bolts to specifications. After the cyUnder head bolts have beea torqued to specifications, the bolts should not be disturbed. 48. Apply Lubriplate to both ends of the push rods. Install the push rods in their proper sequence, positioning the lower end of the rods in the lifter sockets. 49. Apply Lubriplate to the valve tips and the rocker arm pads. Position the valve rocker arm shaft assembly on the head. Be sure the oU holes In the shaft are fadag dowaward. 50. Install the valve rocker arm shaft bolts. Tighten them evenly and
8-43
equally 2 turns at a time until the specified torque is obtained. 51. Refer to Page 8-11 and check the valve clearance. 51. Clean the gasket surfaces on the valve rocker arm cover and cylinder head. Coat one side of a new gasket with an oil-resistant sealer and lay the cemented side of the gasket on the cover. Install the cover making sure the gasket seats evenly around the head. Torque the cover bolts to specifications. Torque the cover bolts to specificc.tions again two minutes later. 53. Install the spark plugs. Install the distributor cap and spark plug wire assembly. Connect the spark plug wires. Install the coil on the block and connect the coil high tension lead. 54. Position the exhaust manifold on the cylinder head except on 2502V. Install the tab washers and bolts. Torque the bolts to specifications. Lock the bolts by bending one tab of the washer over a flat on the bolt. ·55. Position the carburettor gasket on the manifold. Install the carburettor except on 250-2V. 56. Install the carburettor fuel inlet line, the manifold vacuum line and the distributor vacuum line, except on 250-2V. 51. Install the oil pressure sending unit, dipstick tube and dipstick. 58. Install the engine in the car. 59. On 250-2V engines install the exhaust manifold as described on page8-27. 60. On 250-2V engines install the inlet manifold, carburettor etc. as described on page 8~27 . 61. Check the ignition timing and adJUSt if necessary. Adjust the engine idle fuel mixture and idle speed.
8-44
PART 8·3
302-351 C.I.D.V8ENGINES INDEX
Page No.
Description .. . . .. .. .. .. .. .. . . . . .. .. .. . . .. .. .. 8-45 In Vehicle Adjustments and Repairs Engine Front Supports .. .. .. . . .. .. .. . . .. .. 8-45 Engine Rear Supports ............. . 8-46 Valve Clearance Checking Procedure 8-46 Valve Rocker Arm Cover and Rocker Arm ...... .. 8-46 Intake Manifold .. .. .. . . .. .. .. 8-47 Exhaust Manifold .. .. .. .. .. . . .. .. .. .. 8-48 Crankcase Ventilation System ....... . 8-48 .. .. .. .. Cylinder Heads .. .. .. ~· .. .. . . 8-49 Valve Spring, Retainer and Stem Seal ....... . 8-50 Water Pump ........................ . 8-51 Front Oil Seal .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . .. .. 8-51 Cylinder Front Cover and Timing Chain 8-52 Camshaft ................... . 8-53 Camshaft Rear Bearing Bore Plug .. .. .. 8-54 Valve Lifter .. . . .. . . .. .. . . .. . . .. .. 8-54 Valve Lifter Disassembly .. . . . . .. . . 8-54 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Replacement 8-55 Main Bearings .. .. . . .. .. .. .. . . 8-55 Connecting Rod Bearings 8-56 Pistons and Connecting Rods .. 8-57 Flywheel ........... . 8-58 Clutch Pilot Bushing 8-58 Oil Filter ... . 8-59 Oil Pan .. ....... . 8-59 Oil Pump ...... ................. . 8-59 Engine Removal and Installation Removal ........ ....... . 8-60 Installation .. .. .. .. . . . . 8-61 Major Repair Operations Crankshaft .. .. .. .. .. .. 8-61 Camshaft Bearings .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 8-63 Cylinder Assembly Replacement .. .. .. .. 8-63 Cylinder Block Replacement .. .. .. .. .. .. 8-64 Engine Disassembly and Assembly .. 8-64
8-45
PART 8-4- 302-351 C.I.D. VS ENGINE 1
DESCRIPTION
FIG. 1 - 351
FIG. 1A -
Engine
V8 302 and 351 CID Engines are basic· ally the same (Fig. 1) the main differences being length of stroke, air cleaner and carburettor type.
302
EnginB
Both engines have positive crankcase ventilation systems of the semi closed type.
2 IN-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS When installing nuts or bolts that must be torqued (refer to specifications), oil the threads with light weight engine oil.
IAOU REdo FOR C4,FWX AUtO TIWIS &~ ' SPEEO STD TRANS ONLY ~
i
i
~(! ,, ·&
Do not oil threads that require oil-resisrant
or water-resistant sealer.
~ II>
e
II>
e
FIG. 3- EnginB Rear Supports
Refer to page 8·15 for cleaning and inspection procedures. Refer to page
8 ·2 for test procedures.
ENGINE FRONT SUPPORTS
The front supports are located on each side of the cylinder block (Figs. 2 and 3). The procedures given apply to either a right or left installation. REMOVAL
FIG. 2- Engine Front Sup.oorts
1. bolts.
Remove the fan shroud attaching
2. Remove the through bolt and lock nut attaching the insulator to the insulator support bracket (Figs. 2 and 3). 3. Raise the engine slightly with a jack and a wood block placed under the oil pan. 4. Remove the engine insulator assembly to cylinder block attaching bolts and lock washers. Remove the engine insulator assembly and heat shield. INSTALLATION
1. Position the engine insulator assembly and the heat shield to the cy Iinder block and install the attaching bolts and lock washers. Tighten the bolts
8-46
GROUP 8- ENGINE
to specifications. 2. Lower the engine into position, install the engine insulator assembly to insulator support bracket through bolt and remove the jack and wood block. 3. Install the engine insulator assembly to insulator support bracket nuts. Tighten the nut to specifications. 4. Install the fan shroud attaching bolts. ENGINE REAR SUPPORT The rear support is located at the transmission extension housing (Fig. 3). REMOVAL 1. Remove the support insulator to crossmember attaching nuts. 2. Remove the support insulator to transmission extension housing bolts and lock washers. 3. Raise the transmission with a floor jack. Remove the support insulator and retainer.
INSTALLATION. I. Position the support insulator and retainer on the transmission extension housing. 2. Install the support insulator to transmission extension housing bolts and lock washers. Tighten the bolts to specifications. Lower the transmission. 3. Install the support insulator to crossmember attaching nuts. Tighten the nuts to specifications.
VALVE CLEARANCE CHECKING PROCEDURE The valve arrangement of the left bank is E-I-E-I-E-I-E-I and on the right bank is I-E-I-E-I-E-I-E. A 0.060-inch shorter push rod or a 0.060-inch longer push rod are available for service to provide a means of compensating for dimensional changes in the valve mechanism.
FIG. 4 - Checking Valve Clearance
Valve stem to valve rocker arm clearance should be within specifications with the hydraulic lifter completely collapsed. Repeated valve reconditioning operations (valve and/or valve seat refacing) will decrease the clearance to the point that if not compensated for , the hydraulic valve lifter will cease to function and the valve will be held open. To determine whether a shorter or a longer push rod is necessary , make the following check: 1. Disconnect the brown lead (I terminal) and the red and blue lead (S terminal) at the starter relay. Install an auxiliary starter switch between the battery and S terminals of the Starter relay. Crank the engine with the ignition switch OFF until the No. I piston i~ on TDC after the compression stroke. 2. With the crankshaft in the positions designated in Steps, 3,4, and 5, position the hydraulic lifter compressor tool on the rocker arm. Slowly apply pressure to bleed down the hydraulic lifter until the plunger is completely bottomed (Fig. 4) . Hold the lifter in this position and check the available clearance between the rocker arm and the valve stem tip with a feeler gauge.
With No , I ot TDC at end o f compr e ss ion st roke mak e a chalk mark at poi nt s Band C approx imatel y
90 degree s aport .
If the clearance is less than specifications, install an undersize push rod. If the clearance is greater than specifications, install an oversize push rod. 3. With the No. I piston on TDC at the end of the compression stroke, POSITION A in Fig. 5, check the following valves: No. 1 Intake No. I Exhaust No. 4 Intake No. 3 Exhaust No. 8 Intake No. 7 Exhaust 4. After these valves have been checked, rotate the crankshaft to POSITION B in Fig. 5, and check the following valves: No. 3 Intake No. 2 Exhaust No. 7 Intake No. 6 Exhaust 5. After these valves have been checked, rotate the crankshaft to POSITION C in Fig. 7 and check the following valves: No. 2 Intake No. 4 Exhaust No. 5 Intake No. 5 Exhaust No. 6 Intake No. 8 Exhaust
VALVE ROCKER ARM COVER AND ROCKER ARM The valve rocker arm is shown in Fig. 6.
ROCKER ARM 6564
FULC RUM SEA T 6A528
FIG. 6- Rocker Arm and Related Parts POSITION A - No. 1 a t TDC a t e nd o! com pression stroke. POSITION 8 -R otate the cra nk sha ft 180 deg re es (one ha lf
re vo lution) clock wise fr om POSITION A. POSITION C -R otate the cranksha ft 270 degr e es (three q uar ter revolution) clockwis e fr om
POSI TI ON B.
A3234.A
FIG. 5- Position of Crankshaft for Checking Valve Clearance and Installing Rocker Arms
8-47
PART 8-4-302 351 C.I.D. VB ENGINE REMOVAL 1. Remove the air cleaner and intake duct assembly. If a right cylinder head rocker arm is to be · removed, remove the crankcase ventilation regulator valve from the valve rocker arm cover. 2. Disconnect the spark plug wires from the spark plugs by grasping, twisting and pulling the moulded cap only. Remove the wires from the bracket on the valve rocker arm cover(s) and position the wires out of the way. 3. Remove the valve rocker arm cover(s). 4. Remove the valve rocker arm · bolt, fulcrum seat and rocker arm.
INSTALLATION All rocker arms and fulcrum seats are to be lubricated with heavy engine oil MS before installation. 1. Apply Lubriplate or equivalent to the top of the valve stem. Lubricate the rocker arm and fulcrum seat with heavy engine oil MS. 2. Position the No. 1 piston on TDC at the end of the compression stroke, POSITION A in Fig. 5 and install the rocker arm, fulcrum seat and bolt on the following valves: No. 1 Intake No. 1 Exhaust No. 4 Intake No. 3 Exhaust No. 8 Intake No. 7 Exhaust Position the crankshaft in POSITION B in Fig. 5 and install the rocker arm, fulcrum seat and bolt on the following valves: No. 3 Intake No. 2 Exhaust Jllo. 7 Intake No. 6 Exhaust Position the crankshaft in POSITION C in Fig. 5 and install the rocker arm, fulcrum seat and bolt on the following valves: No. 2 Intake No. 4 Exhaust No. 5 Intake No. 5 Exhaust No. 6 Intake No. 8 Exhaust Be sure that the fulcrum seat base is inserted in its slot on the cylinder head before tightening the fulcrum bolts. Tighten the fulcrum bolt to specification. Check the valve clearance following the procedures under Valve Clearance Checking Procedure page 8-12 . 3. Clean the valve rocker arm cover(s) and the cylinder head gasket surface(s). Apply oil-resistant sealer to one side of new cover gasket(s). Lay the cemented side of the gasket(s) in place in the cover(s). 4. Position the cover(s) on the cylinder head(s). Make sure the gasket seats evenly all around the head. Install the bolts. The cover is tightened in two steps. Tighten the bolts to specifications. Two minutes later, tighten the bolts to the same specifications. If the right cover was removed, install
the crankcase ventilation regulator valve. Install the air cleaner and intake duct assembly. 5. Install the spark plug wires in the bracket on the valve rocker arm cover(s). Connect the spark plug wires. 6. Start the engine and check for leaks.
INTAKE MANIFOLD The Intake Manifold Assembly is shown in Fig. 7.
CHOKE HEATER
v'
M~~~--.._....-
........,.
~
REMOVAL 1. Remove the air cleaner and intake duct. 2. Disconnect the high tension lead and wires from the coil. Disconnect the engine wire loom and position it out of the way. 3. Disconnect the spark plug wires from the spark plugs by grasping, twisting and pulling the moulded cap only. Remove the wires from the harness brackets on the valve rocker arm covers. Remove the distributor cap and spark plug wire assembly. 4. Remove the carburetor fuel inlet line. 5. Remove the heater hoses from the retainers and position the hoses out of the way. 6. Remove the ignition coil and bracket. 7. Disconnect the crankcase emission hose at the right rocker arm cover. 8. Disconnect the vacuum lines from the intake manifold. Remove the bolts attaching the vacuum outlet to the left hand rocker arm covers," if so equipped. 9. Disconnect the distributor vacuum hoses from the distributor. Remove the distributor hold down bolt and remove the distributor. 10. Disconnect the accelerator linkage and transmission downshift linkage, if so equipped, and position out of the way. 11. Remove the carburetor. 12. Remove: the manifold attaching bolts. Remove the manifold. Remove and discard the intake manifold gasket and seals. 13. If the manifold assembly is to be disassembled, identify all vacuum hoses before disconnecting them. INSTALLATION 1. If the intake manifold assembly was disassembled, install the engine identification tag. 2. Clean the mating surfaces of the intake manifold, cylinder heads and cylinder block. Use a suitable solvent to remove all traces of oil. 3. Position new seals on the cylinder block and press the seal locating
INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET-9441
SEALS 9A424
A3238·A
FIG. 7- Intake Menifold Assembly
extensions into the holes in the mating surface. Apply non-hardening sealer at the four junction points of the seals and cylinder heads. Position the intake manifold gasket onto the block and cylinder heads with the alignment notches under the dowels on the cylinder heads. Be sure the holes in the gasket are aligned with the holes in the cylinder head. 4. Carefully lower the intake manifold into position on the cylinder block and cylinder heads. 5. Be sure the holes in the manifold gaskets and manifold are in alignment. Install the intake manifold attaching bolts. Tighten the intake manifold bolts in three steps (Fig. 8); Tighten all bolts in sequence to 8-10 ft-lb. Tighten all bolts in sequence to 15-20 ft-lb. Tighten all bolts in sequence to specifications. After completing the remammg asaembly steps, operate the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature then re-tighten the manifold bolts in sequence to specifications. 6. Instalt the carburetor and gasket. 7. Rotate the crankshaft damper until the No. 1 piston is on TDC at the end of the compression stroke. Position the distributor in the block with the rotor at the No. 1 firing position and the points just open. lrtStall the hold down clamp.
GROUP 8- ENGINE
8-48
CD 0 ®0 CD 0 FRONT OF ENGINE
•
Q) @@@0
0
FIG. 8 -Intake Manifold Torque Saquence
8. Install the accelerator linkage and transmission downshift rod, if so equipped. 9. Install the ignition coil. 10. Connect the vacuum lines at the manifold. Install the manifold vacuum outlet attaching bolts at the left hand rocker arm cover, if so equipped. 11. Position the engine wire loom under the hold down clips on the left rocker arm cover and connect the wires at the ignition coil and water temperature sending unit. 12. Connect the crankcase emission line at the right hand rocker arm cover. 13. Install the heater hoses in the retainers. 14. Connect the fuel pump to carburetor fue1line at the carburetor. 15. Install the distributor cap. Position the spark plug wires in the
harness brackets on the valve rocker arm covers and connect the wires to the spark plugs. 16. Start the engine and check for leaks. Adjust the ignition timing and connect the distributor vacuum line. 17. When engine temperature has stabilized, adjust idle mixture and speed. Retorque the intake manifold to specifications. 18. Install the air cleaner assembly and re-check idle speed. EXHAUST MANIFOLD REMOVAL 1. If a right hand exhaust manifold is being removed, remove the ait cleaner, intake duct and heat stove. 2. If a left ,hand exhaust manifold is
being removed, remove the oil filter. 3. Disconnect the muffler inlet pipe at the exhaust manifold. 4. Remove the exhaust manifold attaching bolts and remove the manifold. INSTALLATION 1. Clean the mating surfaces of the exhaust manifold and cylinder head. Clean the mounting flange of the exhaust manifold and muffler inlet pipe. 2. Apply graphite grease to the mating surface of the exhaust manifold. 3. Position the exhaust manifold on the head and install the attaching bolts. Working from the center to the ends, tighten the bolts to specifications. 4. Connect the muffler inlet pipes at the exhaust manifold. Tighten the attaching nuts to specifications. 5. If a left hand exhaust ::1anifold is being installed, install the oil fllter. 6. If a right hand exhaust manifold is being replaced, install the air cleaner heat stove. Install the air cleaner and intake duct. 7. Start the engine and check for exhaust leaks.
CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM The crankcase ventilation system components are shown in Fig. 9. REMOVAL
FIG 9. - Typical VB engine crankcase ventilation system components.
1. Remove the ventilation system air intake hose from the air cleaner and the oil filler cap. 2. Remove the air cleaner and intake duct assembly. 3. Disconnect the crankcase vent hose from the carburetor, regulator valve and hot idle compensator (if so equipped); 4. Pull the regulator valve out of the valve rocker arm cover mounting grommet. 5. Remove the crankcase ventilation fllter from the air cleaner body.
8-49
PART 8-4- 302-351 C.I.D. V8 ENGINES
INSTALLATION 1. Install the crankcase ventilation filter in the air cleaner body. 2. insert the regulator valve into the valve rocker arm cover mounting grommet. 3. Connect the vent hose to the carburetor, regulator valve and hot idle compensator (if so equipped). 4. Install the air cleaner and intake duct assembly. 5. Install the ventilation system air intake hose to the air cleaner and the oil filler cap. 6. Start the engine and check for · leaks.
CYLINDER HEADS If a cylinder head is to be replaced, follow the procedures under Cylinder Head Disassembly and Assembly, and transfer all valves, springs, spark plugs, etc., to the new cylinder head. Clean and inspect all parts, reface the valves (refer to 8-,16 Section 3) and check all assembly clearances before assembling the new or used parts to the new cylinder head. REMOVAL 1. Remove the intake manifold and carburetor as an assembly following the procedure under Intake Manifold Removal. 2. Remove the rocker arm cover(s). If the left cy Iinder head is to be removed on a vehicle with an air conditioner, isolate and remove the compressor. If the left cylinder head is to be removed on a vehicle with power steering, disconnect the ·power steering pump bracket from the left cylinder head and remove the drive belt from the pump pulley. Position the power steering pump out of the way and in a position that will prevent the oil from draining out. 3. If the right cylinder head is to be removed, remove the alternator mounting bracket through bolt and air cleaner inlet duct from the right cylinder head assembly. Remove the ground wire at the rear of the cylinder head. the exhaust 4. Disconnect manifold(s) from the muffler inlet pipe(s). 5. Loosen the rocker arm fulcrum bolts so that the rocker arms can be rotated to the side. Remove the push rods in sequence (Fig. 10) so that they may be installed in their original positions. 6. Remove the cylinder head attaching bolts and lift the cylinder head off the block. Remove and discard the cylinder head gasket.
IJ FIG. 11 -Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Sequence
FIG. 10- Removing Valve Push Rod
INSTALLATION 1. Clean the cylinder head, intake manifold, valve rocker arm cover and cylinder head gasket surfaces. If the cylinder head was removed for a cylinder head gasket replacement, check the flatness of the cylinder head and block gasket surfaces. 2. Position the new cylinder head gasket over the cylinder dowels on the block. Position the cylinder head on the block and install the attaching bolts. 3. The cylinder head bolts are tightened in three progressive steps. Tighten all the bolts in sequence (Fig. 11) to 50 ft-lbs., then to 60 ft-lbs. and finally to specifications. When cylinder head bolts have been tightened following this procedure, it is not necessary to retorque the bolts after extended operation. However, the bolts may be checked and retorqued if desired. 4. Clean the push rod in a suitable solvent. Blow out the oil passage in the push rod with compressed air. Check the ends of the push rods for nicks, grooves, roughness or excessive wear. Visually check the push rods for straightness o.r check push rod runout with a dial indicator. If runout exceeds the maximum limit at any point, discard the rod. Do not attempt to straighten push rods. 5. Lubricate and install the push rods in their original positions. Apply Lubriplate or equivalent to the valve stem tips. 6. Lubricate and install the rocker arms following procedures under Valve Rocker Arm Installation. 7. Connect the exhaust manifold(s) at the muffler inlet pipe(s). Tighten the nuts to specifications. 8. If the right cylinder head was removed, install the alternator mounting bracket through bolt and air cleaner inlet duct on the right cylinder head assembly. Connect the ground wire at the rear of the cylinder head. Adjust the drive belt tension to specifications. 9. Apply oil-resistant sealer to one side of new cover gasket(s). Lay the cemented side of the gasket(s) in place in the cover(s). Install the valve rocker arm cover(s).
FIG. 12- Compressing Valve Spring on Bench
If the left cylinder head was removed on a vehicle with an air conditioner, install the compressor. If the left cylinder head was removed on a vehicle with power steering, install the drive belt and power steering pump bracket. Install the bracket attaching bolts. Adjust the drive belt to specifications. 10. Install the intake manifold and related parts following the procedure under Intake Manifold Installation. DISASSEMBLY 1. Remove the exhaust manifolds and the spark plugs. 2. Clean the carbon out of the cylinder head combustion chambers before removing the valves. 3. Compress the valve springs (Fig. 12). Remove the spring retainer locks and release the spring. 4. Remove the spring retainer, spring and stem seal. Discard the valve stem seals. Remove any burrs from the valve stem with Tool TIOP-6506-A as shown in Fig. 13 to prevent damage to the valve guide bore. Remove the valve. Identify all valve parts. 5. Clean, inspect and repair the cy Iinder head as required, or transfer all usable parts to a new cylinder head. Note The damper spring is an interference fit in the valve spring. The spring and damper is removed as an assembly. ASSEMBLY All valves, valve stems and valve guides are to be lubricated with heavy engine oil MS. The valve tips are to have Lubriplate or equivalent applied. The lubricant is to be applied before installation.
GROUP 8- ENGINE
8-50
FIG. 13- Removing Valve Stem Burrs
LOCKS~~~ 6518
SPR~NG _.
RETAINER 6514
D7ER
~ SJ. ~
OILSEAL ' I 6571
~651 3
EXHAUST VALVE 65()1;
~ INTAKE VALVE 1.1\07
A3243-A
FIG. 14- Valve and Related Parts
4. Install the valve spring over the valve, and then install the spring retainer. Compress the spring and install the retainer locks (Fig. 12). 5. Measure the assembled height of the valve spring from the surface of the cy Iinder head spring pad to the underside of the spring retainer with dividers (Fig. 15). Check the dividers against a scale. If the assembled height is greater than specifications, install the necessary 0.030-inch thick spacer(s) between the cylinder head spring pad and the valve spring to bring the assembled height to the recommended height. Do not install the spacers unless necessary. Use of spacers in excess of recommendations will result in overstressing the valve springs and overloading the camshaft lobes which could lead to spring breakage and/or worn camshaft lobes. 6. Install the exhaust manifolds and the spark plugs.
4. Remove the valve rocker arm fulcrum, bolts, fulcrum seats, valve rocker arms and push rods from the applicable cylinder. 5. Install an air line with an adapter in the spark plug hole and turn on the air supply. 6. Install the compressor tool as shown in Fig. 16. Compress the valve spring and remove the retainer locks, spring retainer and valve spring. 7. Remove and discard the valve stem seal (Fig. 17). 8. If air pressure has forced the piston to the bottom of the cylinder, any removal of air pressure will allow the valve(s) to fall into the cylinder. A rubber band, tape or string wrapped around the end of the valve stem will prevent this condition and will still allow enough travel to check the valve for binds.
VALVE SPRING, RETAINER AND STEM SEAL Broken valve springs or damaged valve stem seals and retainers may be replaced without removing the cylinder head, provided damage to the valve or valve seat has not occurred. REMOVAL 1. Disconnect the automatic choke heat chamber air inlet hose from the inlet tube near the right valve rocker arm cover. 2. Remove the air cleaner and intake duct assembly. To remove the right valve rocker arm cover, remove the crankcase ventilation regulator valve from the valve rocker arm cover. 3. Remove the valve rocker arm cover and the applicable spark plug.
FIG. 17- Removing or Installing Valve Stem Seal
FIG. 18- Removing Crankshaft Vibration Damper FIG. 15- Valve Spring Assembled Height
INSTALLATION 1. Clean the spring retainer lock grooves on the valves to remove any loose rna terial left by the valve stem de-burring tool. 2. Lubricate the valve guide and valve stem with heavy engine oil MS. 3. Install each valve (Fig. 14) in the port from which it was removed or to which it was fitted. Install a new stem seal on the valve.
FIG. 16- Compressing Valve Spring in Chassis
1. Inspect the valve stem for damage. Rotate the valve and check the valve stem tip for eccentric movement during rotation. Move the valve up and down through normal travel in the valve guide and check the stem for binds. If the valve has been damaged, it will be necessary to remove the cylinder head for repairs.
PART 8-4-302-351 C.I.D. VB ENGINES 2. If the condition of the valve proved satisfactory, hold the valve in the closed position and apply the air pressure within the cylinder. 3. Lubricate the valve stem with heavy engine oil MS. 4. Install a new valve stem seal (Fig. 17). Place the spring in position over the valve and install the valve spring retainer. Compress the valve spring and install the valve spring retainer locks.. Remove the compressor tool and stud nut. Turn off the air and remove the air line adapter. 5. Lubricate and install the push rod. Apply Lubriplate or equivalent to the tip of the valve stem. 6.. Lubricate the push rod socket, fulcrum seat and the valve pad of the rocker arm with heavy engine oil MS. 7. Postion the No. 1 piston on TDC at the end of the compression &troke, POSITION A in Fig. 5, and install the rocker arms, fulcrum seats and fulcrum bolts on the following valves: No. 1 Intake No. 1 Exhaust No. 4 Intake No. 3 Exhaust No. 8 Intake No. 7 Exhaust Position the crankshaft in POSITION B shown in Fig. 5, and install the rocker arms, fulcrum seats and fulcrum bolts on the following valves: No. 3 Intake No. 2 Exhaust No. 7 Intake No. 6 Exhaust Position the crankshaft in POSITION C shown in Fig. 5, and install the rocker arms, fulcrum seats and fulcrum bolts on the following valves: No. 2 Intake No. 4 Exhaust No. 5 Intake No. 5 Exhaust No. 6 Intake No. 8 Exhaust Be sure that the fulcrum seat base is Inserted In its slot on the cylinder head before tightening the fulcrum bolt. Tighten the fulcrum bolts to specifications. 8. Oean and install the rocker arm cover. If the right cover was removed, install the crankcase ventilation regulator valve. 9. Install the spark plug and connect the spark plug wires. 10. Install the air cleaner and intake duct assembly. 11. Connect the automatic choke heat chamber air inlet hose.
WATER PUMP
REMOVAL 1. Drain the cooling system and disconnect the battery. 2. Remove the fan shroud attaching bolts and position the shroud rearward. 3. Remove the fan and spacer. from the water pump shaft. 4. Remove the air conditioner compressor drive belt lower idler pulley and compressor mount to water pump bracket, if so equipped.
5. Loosen the alternator and remove the drive belt. 6. If equipped with power steering, loosen the power steering pump and remove the drive belt. 7. Remove the water pump pulley. 8. Remove alternator bracket from water pump and position it out of the way. 9. If equipped with power steering, remove the power steering pump bracket from the water pump and position it out of the way. 10. Remove the heater hose from the water pump. 11. Disconnect the lower radiator hose at the water pump. 12. Remove the water pump attaching bolts and remove the water pump.
8-51
3. Loosen the alternator, power steering and air conditioner drive belts, if so equipped. Remove the drive belts. 4. Remove the crankshaft pulley from the vibration damper. Remove the damper attaching screw and washer. Install the puller on the crankshaft vibration damper (Fig. 18) and remove the vibration damper. 5. Place the front seal removing tool onto the front cover over the front seal as shown in Fig. 19. Tighten the two through bolts to force the seal puller under the seal flange. 6. Alternately tighten the four puller bolts a half turn at a time as shown in Fig. 19 to pull the front oil seal from the front cover.
INSTALLATION Before a water pump is re-installed, check it for damage. If it is damaged, replace it. 1. Remove all gasket material from the mounting surfaces of the cylinder front cover and water pump. 2. Position a new gasket, coated on both sides with sealer, on the cylinder front cover; then install the pump. Coat the threads of the attaching screws with oil-resistant sealer and install the screws. Tighten the attaching screws to specifications. 3. Install the air conditioner compressor to water pump bracket and lower idler pulley, if so equipped. 4. Position the alternator bracket and power steering pump bracket, if so equipped, on the water pump and install the bracket bolts. 5. Position the water pump pulley on the water pump shaft and install the drive belts. 6. Place the fan shroud over the pulley and install the fan and spacer. 7. Install the fan shroud attaching bolts. 8. Adjust the drive belts to specifications. 9. Connect the lower radiator hose at the water pump. 10. Connect the heater hose at the water pump. 11. Connect the battery cable. Fill and bleed the cooling system. Operate the engine until normal operating temperature has been reached and check for leaks.
FIG. 19- Removing Front Crenkshaft Seal
FRONT OIL SEAL
REMOVAL 1. Remove the bolts attaching the fan shroud to the radiator. 2. Remove the fan and spacer bolts from the water pump shaft. Remove the fan, spacer and shroud.
FIG. 20- Installing Front Crankshaft Saal
8-52
GROUP 8- ENGINE
INSTALLATION 1. Coat a new front oil seal with Lubriplate or equivalent and place it onto the front oil seal alignment and installation sleeve as shown in Fig. 20. Place the sleeve and seal onto the end of the crankshaft and push it toward the engine until the seal starts into the front cover. 2. Place the installation screw, washer and nut onto the end of the crankshaft. Thread the screw into the crankshaft. Tighten the nut against the washer and installation sleeve to force the seal into the front cover. Remove the installation tool from the crankshaft. 3. Apply Lubriplate or equivalent to the oil seal rubbing surface of the vibration damper inner hub to prevent damage to the seal. Apply a white lead and oil mixt\lre to the front of the crankshaft for damper installation. 4. Line up the crankshaft vibration damper keyway with the key on the crankshaft. Install the vibration damper on the crankshaft (Fig. 21). Install the cap screw and washer. Torque the screw to sp~cifications. Install the crankshaft pulley. 5. lnst;tll the alternator, power steering pump and air conditioner belts, if so equipped. 6. Position the fan shroud over the water pump pulley. Install the fan and spacer. Install the fan shroud attaching screws. 7. Adjust the drive belts to specification.
CYLINDER FRONT COVER AND TIMING CHAIN
REMOVAL 1. Drain the cooling system and disconnect the battery. 2. Remove the fan shroud attaching bolts. 3. Remove the fan and spacer from the water pump shaft. 4. If equipped with air conditioning, loosen the lower idler pulley and remove the compressor drive belt. 5. Loosen the alternator and remove the drive belt. 6. If equipped with power steering, loosen the power steering pump and remove the drive belt. 7. Remove the water pump pulley. 8. Remove the alternator to water pump bracket. Position the alternator out of the way. 9. If equipped with power steering, remove the power steering pump bracket from the water pump and cylinder head. Position the pump out of the way. 10. If equipped with air conditioning, remove the compressor to water pump bracket and lower idler pulley.
FIG. 21- Installing Crankshaft Vibration Dampar
11. Remove the heater hose and lower radiator hose from the water pump. 12. Remove the crankshaft pulley from the crankshaft vibration damper. Remove the vibration damper attaching screw. Install the puller on the crankshaft vibration damper (Fig. 18) and remove the vibration damper. 13. Remove the timing pointer. 14. Remove the bolts attaching the front cover and water pump to the cylinder block. Remove the front cover and water pump assembly. 15. Disconnect the fuel pump outlet line from the fuel pump. Remove the fuel pump attaching bolt and nut and lay the pump to one side with the flexible fuel line still attached. 16. Discard the cylinder front cover gasket and oil pan seal. Remove the crankshaft front oil slinger. 17. Check the timing chain deflection does not exceed 0.5 inches. 18. Crank the engine until the timing marks on the sprockets are positioned as shown in Fig. 22. 19. Remove the camshaft sprocket cap screw, washer and two piece fuel pump eccentric. Slide both sprockets and the timing chain forward, and remove them as an assembly (Fig. 23). INSTALLATION 1. Position the sprockets and timing chain on the camshaft and crankshaft (Fig. 24). Be sure the timing marks on the sprock&ts are positioned as shown in Fig.22. 2. Install the two piece fuel pump eccentric, washers and camshaft sprocket cap screw. Torque the sprocket cap screw to specificati01i's. Be sure the outer eccentric sleeve rotates freely. Install the crankshaft front oil slinger (Fig. 24). 3. Coat a new fuel pump gasket with oil-resistant sealer and position the fuel pump and gasket on the cylinder block with pump arm resting on the eccentric outer sleeve. Install the pump attaching
FIG. 22- Aligning Timing Marks
bolt and nut and tighten to specification. Connect the fuel pump outlet line. 4. Remove the front crankshaft seal from the cylinder front cover with the tool shown in Fig. 19. Clean the cylinder front cover and the engine block gasket surfaces. 5. Coat the gasket surfaces of the block and cover with sealer, and position a new gasket · on the cylinder block alignment dowels. 6. Position the cylinder front cover and water pump assembly on the cylinder block alignment dowels. 7. Coat the threads of the attaching bolts with oil-resistant sealer and install the timing pointer and attaching bolts. Torque the bolts to specification. 8. Install thb front crankshaft seal into the cylinder front cover with the tool . shown in Fig. 20. 9. Apply Lubriplate or equivalent to the oil seal rubbing surface of the vibration damper inner hub to prevent damage to the seal. Apply a white lead and oil mixture to the front of the crankshaft from damper installation. 10. Line up the crankshaft vibration damper keyway with the key on the crankshaft. Install the vibration damper on the crankshaft (Fig. 21). Install the cap screw and washer. Tighten the cap screw to specifications. Install the crankshaft pulley. 11. Connect me heater hose and the lower radiator hose at the water pump. 12. If equipped with air conditioning, install the lower idler pulley and compressor to water pum:? bracket. 13. If equipped with power steering, install the power steering pump brackets. alternator and 14. Install \he brackets.
8-53
PART 8-4-302-351 C.I.D. VB ENGINES 21. Fill the crankcase with the proper grade and quantity of engine oil Fill and bleed the cooling system. 22. Connect the battery. Operate the engine until normal operating temperature has been reached and check for leaks. CAMSHAFT
The camshaft and related parts are shown in Fig. 25. REMOVAL
FIG. 23- Removing or Installing Timing Chain
1. Drain the cooling system. Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses at the radiator. If equipped with automatic transmission, disconnect the oil cooler lines at the radiator. Remove the radiator and grille. If equipped with air conditioning, remove the condenser. 2. Remove the cylinder front cover, fuel pump and the timing chain following the procedure under the Cylinder Front Cover and Timing Chain Removal. 3. Remove the intake manifold following the procedure under Intake Manifold Removal. 4. Remove the valve rocker arm covers. Loosen the valve rocker arm fulcrum bolts and rotate the rocker arms to the side. 5. Remove the valve push roads and identify them so that they can be installed in their original positions. 6. Using a magnet, remove the valve lifters and place them in a rack so that they can be installed in their original bores (Fig. 26); If the valve lifters are stuck in their bores by excessive varnish, etc., it may be necessary to use a plier-type tool or a claw type tool to remove the lifters. Rotate the lifter back and forth to loosen it from the gum or varnish that may have formed at the lifter. 7. Remove the camshaft thrust plate. Carefully remove the camshaft by pulling toward the front of the engine. Use
CRANKSHAFT FRONT OIL SLINGER
FIG. 26- Removing Valve Lifter
caution to avoid damasffig the camshaft bearings. INSTALLATION Camshaft lobes are to be coated with Lubriplate or equivalent and the journals lubricated with heavy engine oil MS before installation. 1. Oil the camshaft journals and apply Lubriplate to the lobes. Carefully slide the bamshaft through the bearings. Install the camshaft thrust plate onto the cylinder block. Check camshaft end play as shown on page 8-ll 2. Install the valve lifters in the bores from which they were removed. 3. Install the timing chain, fuel pump cylinder front cover and related parts following steps 1 thru 13 under Cylinder Front Cover and Timing Chain Installation. 4. Adjust the drive belts to specifications. 5. Install the push rods in their original positions. 6. With No. 1 piston at TDC at the end of the compression stroke, POSITION A in Fig. 5, apply Lubriplate or equivalent to the valve stem tips. Lubricate the rocker arms and fulcrum seats with heavy engine oil MS. Install the rocker arms and
A3252-A
FIG. 24 - Fuel Pump Eccentric and Front Oil Slinger Installed
15. Position the water pump pulley on the water pump shaft and install the drive belts. 16. Place the fan shroud over the pulley and install the fan and spacer. 17. Install the fan shroud attaching bolts. 18. Adjust the drive belts to specifications. 19. Raise the vehicle. Remove the oil pan and install new gaskets and seals following procedures under Oil Pan Removal and Installation. 20. Lower the vehicle.
TIMING CHAIN - 6268 AND CAMSHAFT SPROCKET- 6256
CAMSHAFT REAR BEARING BORE PLUG
6266 CAMSHAFT
BOLT
~
1 ~~ ~ ~ ~PUMP
TWO PIECE FUEL ECCENTRIC- 6287
FIG. 25- Camshaft and Related Parts
6250
A325J.A
8-54 perform a valve clearance check on the following valves: No. 1 Intake No. 1 Exhaust No.4 Intake No. 3 Exhaust. No.8 Intake No.7 Exhaust Position the crankshaft in POSITION B shown in Fig. 5 and install the push rods, apply Lubriplate or equivalent to the valve stem tips, install the rocker arms and perform a valve stem clearance check on the following valves: No. 3 Intake No. 2 Exhaust No. 7 Intake No. 6 Exhaust Position the crankshaft in POSITION C shown in Fig. 5 and install the push rods, apply Lubriplate to the valve stem tips, install the rocker arms and perform a valve stem clearance check on the following valves: No. 2 Intake No. 4 Exhaust No. 5 Intake No. 5 Exhaust No. 6 Intake No. 8 Exhaust 7. Clean the valve rocker arm covers and the cylinder head gasket surfaces. Apply oil-resistant sealer to one side of new cover gaskets. Lay the cemented side of the gaskets in place in the covers. 8. Position the covers on the cylinder heads. Make sure the gasket seats evenly all around the head. Install the bolts. The cover is tightened in two steps. Torque the bolts to specifications. Two minutes later, torque the bolts to the same specifications. . 9. Install the intake manifold, distributor and related parts by following procedures under Intake Manifold Installation. 10. Connect the accelerator cable and retracting spring. Install the vacuum lines that were disconnected from the intake manifold during removal. 11. Clean and install the crankcase ventilation system. 12. Install the distributor cap. Position the spark plug wires in the harness brackets on the valve rocker arm covers and connect the wires to the plugs. Connect the high tension lead at the coil. 13. If. equipped with air conditioning, install the condensor. 14. Place the radiator shroud over the fan. Install the radiator and connect the hoses. If equipped with automatic transmission, connect the oil cooler lines at the radiator. Install the radiator shroud attaching bolts. 15. Raise the vehicle. Remove the oil pan and install new gaskets and seals following procedures under Oil Pan Removal and Installation. Lower the vehicle. 16. Fill and bleed the cooling system. Fill the crankcase with the proper grade and quantity of engine oil. 17. Start the engine and check and adjust the ignition timing. Connect the distributor vacuum lines. 18. Operate the engine at fast idle and check all hose connections and gaskets for leaks. When the engine temperature has
GROUP 8- ENGINE stabilized adjust the engine idle speed and idle fuel mixture. 19. Adust the transmission throttle linkage. Install the air cleaner and intake duct assembly. CAMSHAFT REAR BEARING BORE PLUG
they can be installed in their original bores (Fig. 26) ; If the valve lifters cannot be removed from their bores due to excessive varnish, etc., it may be necessary to use a plier-type tool or a claw type tool to remove the lifters. Rotate the lifter back and forth to loosen it from the gum or varnish that may have formed at the lifter.
REMOVAL 1. On a vehicle with a manual-shift transmission, remove the transmission, clutch pressure plate and disc following the procedures in Group 6. On a vehicle with an automatic transmission, remove the transmission and converter housing following the procedure in Group 7. 2. Remove the flywheel attaching bolts and remove the flywheel. Remove the engine rear cover plate. 3. Remove the core plug. INSTALLATION 1. Using tool T70P-6011-A, install the core plug. 2. Coat the flywheel attaching bolts with oil-resistant sealer. Position the engine rear cover plate on the cylinder block dowels. Position the flywheel on the crankshaft flange. Install and torque the attaching bolts in sequence across from each other to specifications. On a vehicle with a manual-shift transmission, install the clutch pressure plate, disc and the transmission following the procedures in Group 6. On a vehicle with an automatic transmission, install the transmission and converter housing following the procedure in Group 7. VALVE LIFTER
Before replacing a hydraulic valve lifter for noisy operation, be sure the noise is not caused by incorrect valve lash or by worn rocker arms or push rods. REMOVAL 1. Remove the intake manifold and related parts by following procedures under Intake Manifold Removal. 2. Remove the crankcase ventilation regulator valve from the valve rocker arm cover. 3. Remove the valve rocker arm covers. Loosen the valve rocker arm fulcrum bolts and rotate the rocker arms to the side. 4. Remove the valve push rods and identify them so that they can be installed in their original positions. 5. Using a magnet, remove the valve lifters and place them in a rack so that
INSTALLATION Tappets or lifters and bores are to be lubricated with heavy engine oil MS before installation. 1. aean and install the valve lifters in the bores from which they were removed. If a new lifter(s) is being installed, check the new lifter(s) for a ·free fit in the bore in which it is to be installed. Lubricate the lifter(s) and bore(s) with heavy engine oil MS before inserting it in the bore. 2. Install the push rods in their original position. Apply Lubriplate or equivalent to the valve stem tips. 3. Position the No. 1 piston on TDC at the end of the compression stroke, POSITION A in Fig. 5. Lubricate with heavy engine oil MS and install the rocker arm, fulcrum seat and bolt on the following valves: No. 1 Intake No. 1 Exhaust No. 4 Intake No. 3 Exhaust No. 8 Intake No. 7 Exhaust Position the crankshaft in POSITION B, Fig. 5. Lubricate and install the rocker arm, fulcrum seat and bolt on the following valves: No.3 Intake No. 2 Exhaust No. 7 Intake No. 6 Exhaust Position the crankshaft in POSITION C, Fig. 5. Lubricate and install the rocker arm, fulcrum seat and bolt on the folloWing valves: No. 2 Intake No. 4 Exhaust No. 5 Intake No. 5 Exhaust No. 6 Intake No. 8 Exhaust Be sure that the fulcrum seat bue ia inlerted in ita slot on the cylinder head before tightenm, the attachm, bolt. Tighten the fulcrum bolts to specification. Check the valve clearance following the procedure under Valve Oearance - Checking Procedure. 4. Install the valve rocker arm covers. Install the crankcase ventilation regulator valve in the valve rocker arm cover. S. Install the intake manifold and related parts by following procedures under Intake Manifold Installation.
VALVE LIFTER DISASSEMBLY
The internal parts of each hydraulic valve lifter assembly are matched seta. Do not intermix the parts. Keep the
8-55
PART 8-4-302-351 C.I.D. V8 ENGINES assemblies intact until they are to be cleaned. The disassembly and assembly procedures for Types I and II valve lifters are different. Valve lifters should always be tested after assembly; refer to the test procedures covered on page 8-9. TYPE I
a:!, /
'•.(I )
/CHECK VALVE SPRING
COC. .NG
Assembly
Type I hydraulic lifter assembly is shown in Fig. 27. 1. Place the plunger upside down on a clean work bench. 2. Place the check valve (disc or ball check) in position over the oil hole on the bottom of the plunger. Set the check valve spring on top of the check valve (disc or ball check). 3. Position the check valve retainer over the check valve and spring and push the retainer down into place on the plunger. 4. Place the plunger spring, and then the plunger (open end up) into the lifter body. 5. Position the metering valve (disc) in the plunger, and then place the push rod cup in the plunger. 6. Depress the plunger, and position the closed end of the lock ring in the groove of the lifter body. With the plunger still depressed, position the open ends of the lock ring in the groove. Release the plunger, and then depress it again to fully seat the lock ring. 7. Use the hydraulic valve lifter leakdown tester (pageS-9 ) to fill the lifters with test fluid .
TYPE II Disassembly
Each valve lifter is a rna tched assembly. If parts of one lifter are intermixed with those of another, improper valve operation may result.
PLUNGER SPRING
•,,,~
•cuNG"
\
UPPER METERING
r·~~7'"'
BODY
~
CHECK VALVE RETAINER
Disassembly
Disassemble and assemble each lifter separately. Identify the lifter assemblies so they can be installed in their original bores. 1. Grasp the lock ring with needle nose pliers to release it from the groove. It may be necessary to depress the plunger to ful.\y release lock ring. 2. Remove the push rod cup, metering valve (disc), plunger and spring. 3. Remove the plunger assembly, the check valve and the check valve retainer and plunger spring. Carefully remove the plunger spring, the check valve retainer and, the check valve disc from the plunger.
CHECK VALVE
,- ~~ - 'j
\
ul /)"::::. "" PUSH ROD
PUSH ROD METERING VALVE
·~TI':' J. j~~ VALVE
A2867-A
FIG. 27- Type 1 Hydraulic Valve Lifter Assembly
LOCK RING
PLUNGER SPRING BODY LIFTER ASSEMBLY
6500
A 2505-.l
FIG. 28- Type II Hydraulic Valve Lifter Assembly
Disassemble and assemble each lifter separately. Keep the lifter assemblies in proper sequence so they can be installed in their original bores. 1. Grasp the lock ring with needle nose pliers to release it from the groove. It may be necessary to depress the plunger to fully release lock ring. 2. Remove the push rod cup, metering valve disc, and the upper metering valve. Do not bend the metering valve or the valve tensioning finger. 3. Remove the plunger assembly, the check valve and the check valve retainer and plunger spring. Carefully remove the plunger spring, the check valve retainer and the check valve disc from the plunger. Assembly
Type II hydraulic lifter assembly is shown in Fig. 28. 1. Place the plunger on a clean work surface (table or bench) in an inverted position and center the check valve disc on it. Carefully slide the check valve over the disc and down until it bottoms. A slight turning motion will help this. Use every precaution not to distort it in any way, or to bend the preformed fingers. With a slight turning motion slide the plunger spring over the metering valve and d~wn until it seats. 2. Leaving the assembly in the inverted position, slide the lifter body down over the spring until it slightly compresses the spring. 3. Position the combined assembly right side up on the work surface (table or bench). 4. Position the upper metering valve in the plunger taking care not to tilt it to either side, and not to damage or bend the valve tensioning finger. Place the metering valve disc over the metering valve and install the push rod cup. Depress the cup and install the lock ring. 5. Use the hydraulic valve lifter leakdown tester to fill the lifters with test fluid.
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT
Replacement of a crankshaft rear oil seal because of oil leakage requires replacement of both the upper and lower seals. Refer to Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Replacement on page 8-55for "replacement procedure.
MAIN BEARINGS
The main bearing inserts are selective fit. Refer to procedures under Fitting Main and Connecting Rod Bearings.
REMOVAL 1. Drain the crankcase. Remove the oil level dipstick. Remove the oil pan and related parts. 2. Remove the oil pump and inlet tube assembly. 3. Replace one bearing at a time, leaving the other bearings securely fastened. Remove the main bearing cap to which new bearings are to be installed. 4. Insert the upper bearing removal tool in the oil hole in the crankshaft.
5. Rotate the crankshaft in the direction of the engine rotation to force the bearing out of the block. 6. If the rear main bearing is being replaced, remove and discard the rear oil seal from the bearing cap. Loosen all main bearing bolts, thereby lowering the crankshaft slightly but not to exceed 1/32 inch. Remove the block half of the rear oil seal. Use a seal removal tool or install a small metal screw in one end of the seal, and pull on the screw to remove the seal. Be careful not to burr the crankshaft seal rubbing surface.
GROUP 8- ENGINE
8-56
INSTALL SEAL WITH LIP TOWARDS FRONT OF ENGINE
FRONT OF ENGINE
SEAL HALVES TO PROTRUDE BEYOND PARTING FACES THIS DI STANCE TO ALLOW FOR CAP TO BLOCK ALIGNMENT
t
3/ 8"
REAR FACE OF REAR MAIN BEARING CAP AND CY LI NDER BLOCK
VIEW LOOKING AT PARTING FACE OF SPLIT, LIP· TYPE CRANKSHAFT SEAL A 2639-B
FIG. 29- Installing Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
SEALER
FIG. 30- Seeler Application to Rear Main Bearing Cap
INSTALLATION 1. If the rear main bearing is being replaced, clean the rear oil seal groove in the block with a brush and solvent. Carefully install the upper seal (split lip type) into its groove with the undercut side of the seal toward the FRONT of the engine (Fig. 29) by rotating it on the seal journal of the crankshaft until approximately 3/8 inch protrudes below the parting surface. Be sure no rubber has been shaved from the outside diameter of the seal by the bottom edge of the groove. Tighten the bolts on main bearings 1, 2, 3, and 4, thereby raising the crankshaft to its original position. Torque the bolts to specifications. 2. Clean the crankshaft journals. Inspect the journals and thrust faces (thrust bearing) for nicks, burrs or bearing pick-up that would cause premature bearing wear. 3. To install the upper main bearing, place the plain end of the bearing over the
Lubricate the journal with engine oil and install the thrust bearing cap with the bolts fmger-tight. Pry the crankshaft forward against the thrust surface of the upper half of the bearing (Fig. 44). Hold the crankshaft cap to the rear. This will align the thrust surfaces of. both halves of the bearing. Retain the forward pressure on the crankshaft. Torque the cap bolts to specifications. 11. Clean the oil pump inlet tube screen. Prime by filling the inlet opening with oil and rotate the pump shaft until oil emerges from the outlet opening. Install the oil pump and the inlet tube assembly. 12. Position the oil pan gaskets on the oil pan. Position the oil pan front seal on the cylinder front cover. Position the oil pan rear seal on the rear main bearing cap. Install the oil pan and related parts. Install the oil level dipstick. 13. Fill the crankcase. Start the engine and check for oil pressure. Operate the engine at fast idle and check for oil leaks.
shaft on the locking tang side of the block and partially install the bearing so that tool 6331 can be inserted in the oil hole in the crankshaft. With tool 6331 positioned in the oil hole in the crankshaft, rotate the crankshaft in the opposite direction of engine rotation until the bearing seats itself. Remove the tool. 4. Replace the cap bearing. 5. Select fit the bearing for proper clearance following procedures under Fitting Main and Connecting Rod Bearings in Part 8-1. 6. If the bearing is being replaced on journal number 1, 2 or 4, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journal and bearings and install the bearing cap. Tighten the cap bolts to specifications. 7. If the rear main bearing is being replaced, clean the oil seal groove with a brush and solvent. 8. Install the lower seal in the rear main bearing cap with undercut side of seal toward the FRONT of the engine (Fig. 29) allow the seal to protrude approximately 3/8 inch above the parting surface to mate with the upper seal when the cap is installed. 9. Apply a thin coating of oil-resistant sealer to the rear main bearing cap at the rear of the top mating surface (Fig. 30). Do not apply sealer to the area forward of the oil slinger groove. Lubricate the journal with engine oil and install the rear main bearing cap with the rear surface flush or slightly forward of the rear of the cylinder block. Tighten the cap bolts to specifications. 10. If the thrust bearing cap (No. 3 main bearing) has been removed, install it as follows:
The connecting rod bearings are selective fit. Refer to procedures under Fitting Main and Connecting Rod Bearings on page 8.·33 . REMOVAL 1. Drain the crankcase. Remove the oil level dipstick. Remove the oil pan and related parts. 2. Remove the oil pump and inlet tube assembly. 3. Tum the crankshaft until the connecting rod to which new bearings are to be fitted is down. Remove the connecting rod cap. Remove the bearing inserts from the rod and cap. INSTALLATION 1. Be sure the bearing inserts and the bearing bore in the connecting rod and cap are clean. Foreign material under the inserts will distort the bearing and cause a failure. 2. Clean the crankshaft journal. 3. Install the bearing inserts in the connecting rod and cap with the tangs fitting in the slots provided. 4. Pull the connecting rod assembly down frrmly on the crankshaft journal. 5. Select fit the bearing following procedures under Fitting Main and Connecting Rod Bearings on page 8-33.. 6. After the bearing has been fitted, clean and apply a light coat of engine oil to the journal and bearings. Install the connecting rod cap. Torque the nuts to specifications. 7. Clean the oil pump inlet tube
8-57
PART 8-4-302-351 C.I.D. VB ENG INES screen. Prime by filling the inlet opening with oil and rotate the pump shaft until oil emerges from the outlet opening. Install the oil pump and the inlet tube assembly. 8. Position the oil pan gaskets on the oil pan. Position the oil pan front seal on the cylinder front cover. Position the oil pan rear seal on the rear main bearing cap. Install the oil pan and related parts. Install the oil level dipstick. 9. Fill the crankcase. Start the engine and check for oil pressure. Operate the engine at fast idle and check for oil leaks.
OIL RING SPACER
FIG. 32- Installing Piston
PISTONS AND CONNECTING RODS
REMOVAL 1. Drain the cooling system and the crankcase. Remove the intake manifold, cylinder heads, oil pan and oil pump, following the procedures in this section. 2. Remove any ridges and/or deposits from the upper end of the cylinder bores as follows: Tum the crankshaft until the piston to be removed is at the bottom of its travel and place a cloth on the piston head to collect the cuttings. Remove any ridge and/or deposits from the upper end of the cylinder bores. Remove the cylinger ridge with a ridge cutter. . Follow the instructions furnished by the tool manufacturers. Never cut into the ring travel area in excess of 1/32 inch when removing ridges. 3. Make sure all connecting rod caps are marked so that they can be installed in their original positions. 4. Turn the crankshaft until the connecting rod being removed is down. S. Remove the connecting rod nuts and cap. 6. Push the connecting rod and piston assembly out the top of the cylinder with the handle end of a hammer. Avoid damage to the crankshaft journal or the cylinder wall when removing the piston and rod. 7. Remove the bearing inserts from the connecting rod and cap. 8. Install the cap on the connecting rod from which it was removed. INSTALLATION 1. If new piston rings are to be installed, remove the cylinder wall glaze. Follow the instructions of the tool manufacturer. 2. Oil the piston rings, pistons and cylinder walls with light engine oil. Be sure to install the pistons in the same cylinders from which they were removed or to which they were fitted. The connecting rod aud bearing caps are numbered from 1 to 4 in the right bank and from 5 to 8 in the left bank, beginning at the front of the
FIG. 31 -Piston Ring Spacing
engine. The numbers on the connecting rod and bearing cap must be on the same side when installed in the cylinder bore. If a connecting rod is ever transposed from one block or cylinder to another, new bearings should be fitted and the connecting rod should be numbered to correspond with the new cylinder number. 3. Make sure the ring gaps are properly spaced around the circumference of the piston (Fig. 31); 4. Install a piston ring compressor on the piston and push the piston in with a hammer handle until it is slightly below the top of the cylinder (Fig. 32). Be sure to guide the connecting rods to avoid damaging the crankshaft journals. Install the piston with the arrow on the piston head toward the front of the engine. 5. Check the clearance of each bearing following the procedure under Fitting Main and Connecting Rod Bearings on page 8-33. 6. After the bearings have been .fitted, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journals and bearings. 7. Turn the crankshaft throw to the bottom of its stroke. Push the piston all the way down until the connecting rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal. 8. Install the connecting rod cap. Torque the nuts to specifications. 9. After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the side clearance between the connecting rods on each crankshaft journal (Fig. 33). 10. Disassemble, clean, and assemble the oil pump. Clean the oil pump inlet tube screen and the oil pan and block gasket surfaces. 11. Prime the oil pump by filling either the inlet port or outlet port with engine oil and rotating the pump shaft to distribute the oil within the hou sing. Install the oil pump and the oil pan. the cylinder heads 12. Install following procedures under Cylinder Head Installation.
FIG. 33 - Checking Connecting Rod Side Cl earance
13. Install the intake manifold following procedures under Intake Manifold installation. 14. Fill and bleed the cooling system. Fill the crankcase with the proper grade and quantity of engine oil. 1S. Start the engine and check and adj ust the ignition timing. Connect the distributor vacuum hose at the distributor. 16. Operate the engine at fast idle until it reaches normal operating temperature and check for oil and coolant leaks. When the engine temperature has stabilized adjust the engine idle speed and idle fuel mixture. 17. Install the air cleaner and intake duct assembly.
DISASSEMBLY 1. Remove the bearing inserts from the connecting rod and cap. 2. Mark the pistons and pins to assure assembly with the same rod and installation in the same cylinders from which they were removed. 3. Remove the piston rings. Using an Arbor Press aPd the tool shown in Fig. 34, press the piston pin from the piston and connecting rod.
8-58
GROUP 8- ENGINE
L,J-.. . . ..
ASSEMBLY
The piston. connecting rod and related parts are shown in Fig. 35. Check the fit of a new piston in the cylinder bore before assembling the piston and piston pin to the connecting rod. The piston pin bore of a connecting rod and the diameter of the piston p_in must be within specifications. Refer specifications. 1. Apply a light coat of engine oil to all parts. Assemble the piston to the connecting rod with the cylinder number side of the connecting rod and the arrow on the piston positioned as shown in Fig. 36. On replacement connecting rods, install the large-chamfered side of the connecting rod bearing bore towards the crankshaft cheek ; facing towards front of engine on right bank rods, and facing towards rear of engine on left bank rods. 2. Start the piston pin in the piston and connecting rod (this may require a very light tap with a mallet). Using an Arbor Press and the tool shown in Fig. 34, press the piston pin through the piston and connecting rod until the pin ·is centered in the piston. 3. Check the end gap of all piston rings (page 8-18 ). It must be within specifications. Follow the instructions contained on the piston ring package and install the piston rings. 4. Check the ring side clearance of the compression rings with a feeler gauge inserted between the ring and its lower land. The gauge should slide freely around the entire ring circumfere1:1ce without binding. Any wear that occurs will forrn a step at the inner portion of the lower land. If the lower lands have high steps, the piston should be replaced. 5. Be sure the bearing inserts and the bearing bore in the connecting rod and cap are clean. Foreign material under the inserts will distort the bearing and cause a failure. Install the bearing inserts in the connecting rod and cap with tangs fitting in the slots provided.
RICHT BANK
NUMBERED SIDE OF ROD
LEFT BANK
A326().A
FIG. 36- Correct Piston and Rod Positions
n
Q
INSERT TAPERED PILOT
1 .....,...-
Reversible locator Detail A-5 ~
Fri~ ~~I~T~~:ri~AL INSERT THI S END IN PIS TON HOLE
- FOR INSTALLATION
~Adapter Detail
A-3
T68P-6135-A Cup Detail A-1
A3258-8
FIG. 37- Removing Clutch Pilot Bearing FIG. 34 - Removing or Installing Piston Pin
attaching bolts with oil-resistant sealer. Position the flywheel on the crankshaft flange. Install and torque the bolts in sequence across from each other to specifications. 2. On a vehicle with a manual-shift transmission, check the flywheel runout, following the procedure in Part 8-1 and install the clutch pressure plate, disc and the transmission following the procedures in Group 6. On a veh!de with an automatic transmission, check the flywheel runout, and install the transmission and converter . housing following procedure in Group 7.
FLYWHEEL
REMOVAL
CLUTCH PILOT BEARING
REMOVAL
1. On a vehicle with a manual-shift transmission, remove the transmission, clutch pressure plate and disc following the procedures in Group 6. On a vehicle with automatic transmission, remove the transmission and converter housing following the procedure in Group 7. 2. Remove the flywheel attaching belts and remove the flywheel. INSTALLATION
1. Coat the threads of the flywheel
1. Remove the transmission, clutch pressure plate and disc, following the procedures in Group 6. 2. Remove the pilot bearing as shown in Fig. 37.
A3259.A
FIG. 35- Piston, Connecting Rod and Related Parts
INSTALLATION
1. Coat the pilot bearing bore in the crankshaft with a small quantity of wheel bearing lubricant. Avoid using too much lubricant as it may be thrown onto the clutch disc when the clutch revolves.
8-59
PART .8-4-302-351 C.I.D. V8 ENGINES 2. Install the pilot service bearing as shown in Fig. 38. 3. Install the clutch pressure plate, disc and the transmission, following the procedures in Group 6.
Tooi-7600-H Al262-A
FIG. 38- Installing Clutch Pilot Bearing
OIL FILTER
FIG. 40- Oil Pan Gaskst and Ssals Installed
CARTRIDGE-TYPE OIL FILTER
4. Position the oil pan front seal on the cylinder front cover. Be sure the tabs on the seal are over the oil pan gasket. 5. Position the oil pan rear seal on the rear main bearing cap (Fig. 40). Be sure the tabs on the seal are over the oil pan gasket. 6. Position the oil pan against the block and install a bolt, finger-tight, on each side of the block. Install the remaining bolts. Tighten the bolts from the center outward in each direction to specifications. 7. Raise the engine and remove the wood blocks from between the engine supports and chassis brackets. Lower the engine and install the engine support through bolts. Tighten the bolts to specifications. 8. Install the sway bar to chassis attaching bolts. 9. Install the starter and connect the starter cab!e. 10. Lower the vehicle. 11. Install the fan shroud attaching bolts. 12. Install the oil level dipstick. Fill the crankcase with the proper grade and quantity of engine oil. Start the engine and operate at idle speed until it reaches normal operating temperature. Check for leaks. OIL PUMP
OIL PAN
REMOVAL The oil filter assembly is shown in Fig. 39.
1.
Removal Place a drip pan under the filter. Unscrew the filter from the adapter fitting and clean the adapter recess.
.,
ADAPTER FITTING
REMOVAL
FILTER ELEMENT
A2875-A
FIG. 39- Cartridge·Typs Oil Filtsr
Installation 1. Coat the gasket on a new filter with oil. Place the new filter in position on the adapter fitting. Hand tighten the filter until the gasket contacts the adapter face, and then advance it 1/2 turn. 2. Operate the engine at fast idle, and check for oil leaks. If oil leaks are evident, perform the necessary repairs to correct leakage. Check the oil level and fill the crankcase if necessary.
Remove the oil level dipstick. 2. Remove the fan shroud attaching bolts and position the fan shroud over the fan. 3. Raise the vehicle. 4. Drain the crankcase. 5. Disconnect the starter cable and remove the starter. 6. Remove the sway bar attaching bolts from the chassis and lower the sway bar for clearance. 7. Remove the engine front support through bolts. 8. Raise the engine and place wood blocks between the engine supports and chassis brackets. 9. Remove the oil pan attaching bolts. 10. If equipped with an automatic transmission, position the oil cooler lines out of the way. 11. Remove the oil pan. INSTALLATION 1. Clean the gasket surfaces of the block and oil pan. The oil pan has a two-piece gasket. 2. Clean the oil pump pick-up tube and screen. 3. Coat the block surface and the oil pan gasket with sealer. Position the oil pan gaskets on the cylinder block (Fig. 40).
1. Remove the oil pan and related parts as outlined under Oil Pan Removal. 2. Remove the oil pump attaching bolts and remove the oil pump with pick up tube and screen, gasket and intermediate drive shaft. INSTALLATION 1. Clean and install the oil pump inlet tube and screen assembly (Fig. 41). 2. Prime the oil pump by filling either the inlet or outlet port with engine oil. Rotate the pump shaft to distribute the oil within the pump body. 3. Position the intermediate drive shaft into the distributor socket. With the shaft firmly seated in the distributor socket, the stop on the shaft should touch the roof of the crankcase. Remove the shaft and position the stop as necessary. 4. Position a new gasket on the pump housing. With the stop properly po$itioned, insert the intermediate drive shaft into the oil pump. Install the pump and shaft as an assembly. Do not attempt to force the pump into position if it wiD not seat readily. The drive shaft hex may be misaligned with the distributor shaft. To align, rotate the intermediate drive shaft into a new position. Tighten the oil pump attaching screw to specifications. Be sure the oil pick up screen is parallel with the oil pan mounting surface.
GROUP 8- ENGINE
8-60 5. Install the oil pan and related parts as outlined under Oil Pan Installation.
3. Insert a self-threading sheet metal screw of the proper diameter into the oil pressure relief valve chamber cap and pull the cap out of the chamber. Remove the spring and plunger.
DISASSEMBLY I. Remove the oil inlet tube from the oil pump. 2. Remove the cover attaching screws, then remove the cover. Remove the inner rotor and shaft assembly, then remove the outer race.
ASSEMBLY The oil pump assembly is shown in Fig. 42.
1. Oil all parts thoroughly. 2. Install the oil pressure relief valve
plunger, spring and a new cap. 3. Install the outer race and the inner rotor and shaft assembly. Be sure the dimple (identification mark) on the outer race is facing outward and on same side as identification mark on rotor. The race rotor and shaft and the outer race are serviced as an assembly. One part should not be replaced without replacing the other. Install the cover and tighten the cover attaching screws to specifications. 4. Install the oil inlet tube and screen assembly on the oil pump.
OIL RELIEF VALVE ASSEMBLY
A326S.A
FIG. 41 - Oil Pump and Inlet Tube Installed
3
FIG. 42- Oil Pump Assembly
ENGINE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
REMOVAL
I. Disconnect the battery, drain the cooling system and remove the hood. 2. Remove the air cleaner and intake duct assembly. 3. Disconnect the upper radiator hose at the engine and the lower hose at the radiator. On vehicles equipped with automatic transmission, disconnect the oil cooler lines at the radiator. Remove the fan shroud attaching bolts and position the shroud over the fan. Remove the radiator and shroud. 5. Remove the fan and spacer. 6. On vehicles equipped with air conditioning, loosen the idler pulley and remove the drive belt. 7. Loosen the alternator and remove the drive belt. 8. On vehicles with power steering, loosen and remove the power steering pump drive belt. 9. Remove the water pump pulley. 10. On vehicles with power steering, remove the power steering pump brackets and position the pump out of the way in an upright position to prevent fluid loss.
11. On vehicles equipped with air conditioning, isolate and remove the compressor. 12. Remove the alternator and bracket. Position the alternator out of the way. Disconnect the alternator ground wire from the cylinder block. 13. Disconnect the heater hoses at the block and water pump. 14. Remove the ground wires from the cylinder block and right cylinder head. 15. Disconnect the fuel line at the fuel pump. Plug the fuel tank line. Disconnect the vacuum lines at the rear of the intake manifold. 16. Disconnect the accelerator cable or linkage at the carburetor and in take manifold. Disconnect transmission downshift linkage, if so equipped. 17. Disconnect the engine wire loom at the ignition coil, water temperature sending unit and oil pressure sending unit. Remove the wire loom from the hold down clips. 18. Raise the vehicle and secure with safety stands. 19. Disconnect the muffler inlet pipe at the exhaust manifolds.
20. Disconnect the starter cable and remove the starter. 21. Remove the engine front support through bolts and the starter cable clamp at the right front engine support. 22. If equipped with automatic transmission, remove the converter inspection cover and disconnect the flywheel from the converter. Remove the downshift rod. Remove the four lower converter housing-to-engine block bolts and the adapter plate-to-converter housing bolt. On vehicles equipped with a manual transmission, remove the clutch slave cylinder from the cylinder block and remove the four lower bell housing-to-engine block bolts. 23. Lower the vehicle. 24. Remove the two upper converter or bell housing bolts. 25 . Attach engine lifting sling, Tool No. T53L-300.A, and hoist to lifting brackets at exhaust manifolds. 26. Position a jack under the transmission. 27. Raise the engine slightly and carefully pull it from the transmission.
8-61
PART 8-4-302-351 C.I.D. VB ENGINES Carefully lift the engine out of the engine compartment so that the rear cover plate is not bent or components damaged. Install the engine on a WOlk stand. INSTALLATION
1. Attach engine lifting sling, Tool No. T53L-300-A, and hoist to lifting brackets at exhaust manifolds. Remove engine from work stand. 2. Lower the engine carefully into the engine compartment. Make sure the exhaust manifolds are properly aligned with the muffler inlet pipes. On a vehicle with an automatic transmission, start the converter pilot into the crankshaft. On a vehicle with a manual-shift transmission, start the transmission main drive gear into the clutch disc. It may be necessary to adjust the position of the transmission in relation to the engine if the input shaft will not enter the clutch disc. If the engine hangs up after the shaft enters, tum the crankshaft slowly (transmission in gear) until the shaft splines mesh with the clutch disc splines. 3. Install the bell housing or converter housing upper bolts, making sure that the dowels in the cylinder block engage the flywheel housing. Remove the jack from under the transmission. 4. Remove the lifting sling.
4
5. On automatic transmission equipped vehicles, position the downshift rod on the transmission and engine. 6. Raise the vehicle and secure with safety stands. 7. On a vehicle with an automatic transmission, position the transmission linkage bracket and install the remaining converter housing bolts. Install the adapter plate-to-converter housing bolt. Install the converter-to-flywheel nuts and install the inspection cover. Connect the downshift rod on the transmission. On a vehicle with a manual transmission, install the lower bell housing bolts and replace the clutch slave cylinder. 8. Install the starter and connect the cable. 9. Connect the muffler inlet pipes at the exhaust manifolds. 10. Install the engine front support through bolts and install the starter cable clamp at the right front engine support. 11. Lower the vehicle. 12. Install the ground wire at the right cylinder head. Install the engine wire loom and connect it to the ignition coil, water temperature sending unit and oil pressure sending unit. 13. Install the accelerator linkage and connect the downshift rod, if so equipped. 14. Connect the vacuum lines at the rear of the intake manifold. Connect the fuel tank line at the fuel pump.
15. Connect the ground wire at the right front of cylinder block. Install the heater hoses at the water pump and cylinder block. 16. Install the alternator and bracket. Connect the alternator ground wire to the cylinder block. 17. On a vehicle with air conditioning, install the air conditioning compressor and brackets. 18.- On a vehicle with power steering, install the power steering pump and brackets. 19. Install the water pump pulley, fan and spacer. Install the drive belts on their respective pulleys and adjust the belt tension to specifications. 20. Position the fan shroud over the fan. Install the radiator and connect the upper and lower radiator hoses. Insta1l the fan shroud attaching bolts. 21. Fill and bleed the cooling system. Fill the crankcase with the proper grade and quantity of oil Adjust the transmission downshift linkage, if so equipped. Connect the battery. 22. Operate the engine at fast idle until it reaches normal operating temperature and check all gaskets and hose connections for leaks. Adjust ignition time and idle speed. 23. Install the air cll'.aner and intake duct. Install and adjust the hood.
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS
When installing nuts or bolts that must be torqued (to specifications), oil the threads with light weight engine oil. Do not oil threads that require oil-resistant or water-resistant sealer. To perform the operations in this section, it will be necessary to remove the engine from the vehicle and install it on a work stand as previously described. Refer to page 8-15 for cleaning and inspection procedures. CRANKSHAFT
The crankshaft and related parts are shown in Fig. 43. REMOVAL 1. Disconnect the spark plug wires at the spark plugs and remove the wires from the ignition harness brackets on the valve rocker arm covers. Disconnect the coil-to-distributor cap and spark plug wire assembly. Remove the spark plugs to allow easy rotation of the crankshaft. 2. Disconnect the fuel pump outlet line at the pump. Remove the fuel pump from the cylinder block. Remove the
alternator and mounting brackets. 3. Remove the crankshaft pulley from the crankshaft vibration damper. Remove the cap screw and washer from the end of the crankshaft. Install the puller on the crankshaft vibration damper (Fig. 18) and remove the damper. 4. Remove the timing pointer. Remove the water pump and cylinder front cover as an assembly. Discard the gasket and remove the crankshaft front oil slinger. 5. Check that the timing chain deflection does not exceed 0.5 inches. Remove the camshaft sprocket cap screw, washer and two piece fuel pump eccentric. Slide both sprockets and the timing chain forward and remove them as an assembly (Fig. 23). 6. Invert the engine on the work stand. Remove the clutch pressure plate and disc (manual-shift transmission). Remove the flywheel and engine rear cover plate. Remove the oil pan and gasket. Remove the oil pump. 7. Make sure all bearing caps (main and connecting rod) are marked so that they can be installed in their original locations. Turn the crankshaft until the connecting rod from which the cap is being removed is down, and remove the
bearing cap. Push the connecting rod and piston assembly up into the cylinder. Repeat this procedure until all the connecting rod bearing caps are removed. 8. Remove the main bearing caps. 9. Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the block so that the thrust bearing surfaces are not damaged. Handle the crankshaft with care to avoid possible fracture or damage to the fmished surfaces.
INSTALLATION 1. Remove the rear journal oil seal from the block and rear main bearing cap. 2. Remove the main bearing inserts from the block and bearing caps. 3. Clean the rear journal oil seal groove and the mating surfaces of the block and rear main bearing cap. 4. Remove the connecting rod bearing inserts from the connecting rods and caps. 5. If the crankshaft main bearing journals have been refmished to a defmite undersize, install the correct undersize bearings. Be sure the bearing inserts and bearing bores are clean. Foreign material
GROUP 8- ENGINE
8-62
MAIN BEARING INSERTS
AJ266-A
FIG. 43- Crankshaft and Related Parts
•
PRY FORWARD
PRY CAP BACKWARD
THRUST BEARING
FIG. 44 -Aligning Thrust Bearing
under the inserts will distort the bearing and cause a failure. 6. Place the upper main bearing inserts in position in the bores with the tang fitting in the slot provided. 7. Install the lower main bearing inserts in the bearing caps. 8. Dip the lip seal halves in clean engine oil. Install the lip seals in the bearing cap and block with the undercut side of the seal toward the FRONT of the engine as shown in Fig. 29. 9. Carefully lower the crankshaft into place. Be careful not to damage the bearing surface. 10. Check the clearance of each main bearing following the procedure under
Fitting Main and Connecting Rod Bearings on page 8-33. 11. After the bearings have been fitted, apply a thin coating of oil-resistant sealer to the rear main bearing cap at the rear of the top mating surface (Fig. 32). Do nGt apply sealer to the area forward of the oil slinger groove. 12. Apply heavy engine oil MS to the journals and bearings. 13 . Install the rear main bearing cap with the rear surface flush or slightly ahead of the rear of the cylinder block. Install all bearing caps, except the thrust bearing cap (No. 3 bearing). Be sure that the main bearing caps are installed in their
original locations. Torque the bearing cap bolts to specifications. 14. Install the thrust bearing cap with the bolts finger-tight. 15. Pry the crankshaft forward against the thrust surface of the upper half of the bearing (Fig. 44). 16. Hold the crankshaft forward and pry the thrust bearing cap to the rear. This will align the thrust surfaces of both halves of the bearing. 17. Retain the forward pressure on the crankshaft. Tighten the cap bolts to specifications. 18. Force the crankshaft toward the rear of the engine. 19. Check the crankshaft end play
8-63
PART 8-4- 302-351 C. I. D. VB ENGINES (wear limit 0.012 inches). 20. Install the timing chain and sprockets, cylinder front cover and fuel pump, following steps 1 thru 8 under Cylinder Front Cover and Timing Chain Installation. 21. Install the engine rear cover plate onto the alignment dowels at the rear of the cylinder block. 22. Coat the threads of the flywheel attaching bolts with oil-resistant sealer. Position the flywheel on the crankshaft flange. Install and tighten the bolts to specifications. On a flywheel for a manual-shift transmission, use tool 7550 A to locate the clutch disc. install the pressure pl'ate. Tighten the attaching bolts. 23. Install new bearing inserts in the connecting rods and caps. Check the clearance of each bearing following the procedures under Fitting Main and Connecting Rod Bearings on page 8·33 . 24. After the connecting rod bearings have been fitted, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journals and bearings. 25. Tum the crankshaft throw to the bottom of its stroke. Push the piston all the way down until the rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal. 26. Install the connecting rod cap. Torque the nuts to specifications. 27. After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the side clearance between the connecting rods on each connecting rod crankshaft journal (Fig. 33). 28. Clean the oil pan, oil pump and oil pump screen. Prime the oil pump by filling either the inlet or outlet port with ellline oil and rotating the pump shaft to distribute oil within the housing. Install the oil pump and oil pan by following the procedures under Oil Pan and Oil Pump Installation. 29. Install the front oil seal, vibration damper and crankshaft pulley, following steps 10 thru 12 under Cylinder Front Cover and Timing Chain Installation. 30. Install the spark plugs, distributor cap and spark plug wires. Connect the spark plug wires and high tension lead. 31. Install the engine in the vehicle. CAMSHAFT BEARING
Camshaft bearings are available pre-fmlshed to size for standard and 0.015-inch undersize journal diameters. The bearings are not interchangeable from one bore to another. REMOVAL 1. Remove the camshaft, flywheel and crankshaft. Push the pistons to the top of the cylinders. 2. Remove the camshaft rear bearing bore plug. Remove the camshaft bearings (Fig. 45).
DETAIL-1,-2 or .J EXPANDING COLLET
EXPANDING MANDREL
DETAIL-5 PULLER SCREW
ITool-T65L-6250-A I
DETAIL-4 PULLING PLATE
FIG. 45- Camshaft &lsring
Replset~ment
3. Select the proper size expanding collet and back-up nut and assemble on the expanding mandrel. With the expanding collet collapsed, install the collet assembly in the camshaft bearing, and tighten the back-up nut on the expanding mandrel until the collet fits the camshaft bearing. 4. Assemble the puller screw and extension (If necessary) as shown and install on the expanding mandrel. Wrap a cloth around the threads of the puller screw to protect the front bearing or journal. Tighten the pulling nut against the thrust bearing and pulling plate to remove the camshaft bearing. Be sure to hold a wrench on the end of the puller screw to prevent it from turning. 5. Repeat the procedure for each bearing. To remove the front bearing, install the puller screw from the rear of the cylinder block. INSTALLATION 1. Position the new bearings at the bearing bores with the oil holes aligned, and press them In place with the tool shown In Fig. 45. Be sure to center the pulling plate and puller screw to avoid damage to the bearing. Failure to use the co""t expanding collet can cauae aewre bearing damap. Be sure the front bearlnJ is installed the specified distance below the front face of the cylinder block (Fia49). 2. Install the core plug. 3. Install the camshaft, crankshaft, flywheel and related parts, except do not check connecting rod and main bearing clearances as a part of the Camshaft Bearing Replacement. Install the engine in the vehicle.
A2813-A
FIG. 46- C.mlh•ft Front BHrlng Meuutwment
CYLINDER ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT
DISASSEMBLY Follow steps 1 thru 17, 19, 20 and 24 thru 27 under Engine Disassembly. Remove 4 cylinder head dowels from the cylinder block. Remove the cylinder block drain plugs and remove the cylinder assembly from the work stand.
ASSEMBLY Clean the gasket and seal surfaces of all parts and assemblies. Install the replacement cylinder assembly on a work stand. Install the cylinder block drain plugs and cylinder head dowels. Transfer all parts removed from the old cylinder assembly, following the procedures In steps 19, 20, 24 thru 27 and 29 thru 64 under Engine Assembly. Check all assembly clearances and correct as necessary.
8-64 CYLINDER BLOCK REPLACEMENT
Before replacing a cylinder block, determine if it is repairable, and make the necessary repairs. DISASSEMBLY Follow steps 1 thru 17, 19 and 20 thru 32 under Engine Disassembly. Remove the 4 cylinder head dowels and the cylinder block drain plugs from the cylinder block. Remove the cylinder block from the work stand. ASSEMBLY Install the replacement cylinder block on the work stand. Install the cylinder block drain plugs and cylinder head dowels. Transfer the parts removed from the old cylinder block to the new cylinder block by following steps 5 thru 64 under Engine Assembly. Check all assembly clearances and correct as necessary.
ENGINE DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY
DISASSEMBLY 1. Install the engine on the work stand. 2. Remove the distributor cap, coil high tension wire and spark plug wires as an assembly. 3. Disconnect the primary wire at the coil and remove the coil. 4. Remove the alternator and brackets from the water pump and cylinder head. 5. Remove the crankcase emission valve from the right rocker arm cover. 6. Disconnect the carburetor to fuel pump line and remove the line. Remove the carburetor. 7. Disconnect the vacuum lines at the distributor and control valve. Remove the distributor hold down bolt and the distributor. 8. Remove the intake manifold attaching bolts. Raise the intake manifold and carefully remove it from the engine. Discard the gasket and seals. 9. Remove the rocker arm covers. 10. Remove the rocker arm fulcrum bolts and remove the fulcrum seats and rocker arms. Place the rocker llrms and fulcrum seats in order of removal so that they can be installed in their original location. 11. Remove the valve push rods in sequence and put them in a rack or holder so that they can be installed in their original position. 12. Using a magnet, remove the valve lifters and place them in a rack so that they can be installed in their original bores (Fig. 26).
GROUP 8- ENGINE If the valve lifters are stuck in their bores by excessive varnish, etc., it may be necessary to use a plier-type tool or a claw-type tool to remove the lifters. Rotate the lifter back and forth to loosen it from the gum or varnish that may have formed at the lifter. The internal puts of each hydraulic valve lifter assembly are matched sets. Do not intermix the puts. Keep the assemblies intact until they are to be cleaned. 13. Remove the exhaust manifolds and the spark plugs. 14. Remove the cylinder head bolts and lift the cylinder heads off the block. Discard the cylinder head gaskets. 15. Remove the crankshaft pulley from the crankshaft vibration damper. Remove the cap screw and washer from the end of the crankshaft. Install .the puller on the crankshaft vibration damper (Fig. 18) and remove the vibration damper. 16. Remove the timing pointer. 17. Remove the cylinder front cover attaching screws. Remove the cylinder front cover and water pump as an assembly. Discard the gasket and remove the crankshaft front oil slinger. 18. Remove the water pump from the front cover. 19. Remove the thermostat housing and thermostat from the block. Remove the oil pressure and temperature sending units from the block. 20. Remove the fuel pump. 21. Check the timing chain deflection does not exceed 0.5 inches. Remove the camshaft sprocket cap screw, washer and two piece fuel pump eccentric. Slide both sprockets and the timing chain forward, and remove them as an assembly (Fig. 23). 22. Remove the camshaft thrust plate. Carefully remove the camshaft by pulling it toward the front of the engine. Use caution to avpid damaging the journals and lobes. 23. Remove any ridge and/or carbon deposits from the upper end of the cylinder bores. Move the piston to the bottom of its travel and place a cloth on the piston head to collect the cuttings. Remove the cylinder ridge with a ridge cutter. Follow the instructions furnished by the tool manufacturer. Never cut into the ring travel area in excess of 1/32 inch when removing ridges. After the ridge has been removed, remove the cutter from the cylindet bore. 24. On a flywheel for a manual-shift transmission, remove the clutch pressure plate and disc. 2S. Remove. the flywheel and rear cover plate. Remove the clutch pilot bearing (Fig. 37). 26. Invert the engine. Remove the oil pan and discard the gaskets and seals.
27. Remove the oil pump and inlet tube as an assembly. Remove the intermediate drive shaft. Discard the oil pump gasket. 28. Make sure all connecting tods and caps are marked so that they can be installed in their original locations. Tum the crankshaft until the connecting rod being removed is down. Remove the rod cap. 29. Push the connecting rod and piston assembly out of the top of the cylinder with the handle end of a hammer. Avoid damage to the connecting rod journal or the cylinder wall when removing the piston and rod. 30. Remove the bearing inserts from the connecting rods and caps. Install the rod caps on the connecting rods from which they were removed. 31. Remove the main bearing caps. 32. Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the cylinder block so that the thrust bearing surfaces are not damaged. Handle the crankshaft with care to avoid possible fracture or damage to the fmished surfaces. 33. Remove the rear journal oil seal from the block and rear bearing cap. 34. Remove the main bearing inserts from the block and bearing cap. Install the main bearing caps in their original positions. 35. Remove the camshaft rear bearing bore plug. Remove the camshaft bearings (Fig. 45). ASSEMBLY If the cylinder block is to be replaced, transfer the cylinder head dowels, front cover and rear cover plate alignment dowels, dip stick tube, oil filter adapter, fuel pump retaining stud and drain plugs to the new cylinder block and start the assembly procedures with step number 5. 1. If the original cylinder block is used, remove the glaze from the cylinder bores by following the instructions in · Part 8-1. 2. Invert the engine on the work stand. 3. Position the new camshaft bearings at the bearing bores with the oil holes aligned, and press them in place with the tool shown in Fig. 46. Be sure the camshaft front bearing is installed the specified distance below the front face of the cylinder block. 4. Using tool T70P-6011-A, install the core plug. 5. Oil the camshaft journals and apply Lubriplate to all lobes, and then carefully slide it through the bearings. Install the camshaft thrust plate and check camshaft end play as shown in Part 8-1. 6. If the crankshaft main bearing journals have been refmished to a defmite undersize, install the correct undersize bearings. Be sure the bearing inserts and
PART 8-4-302-351 C.I.D. V8 ENGINES bearing bores are clean. Foreign material under the inserts will distort the bearing and cause a failure. Place the upper main bearing inserts in position in the bore with the tang fitting in the slot provided. 7. Install the lower main bearing inserts in the bearing caps. 8. Dip the lip seal halves in clean engine oil. Install the lip seals in the bearing cap and block with the undercut side of the seal toward the FRONT of the engine as shown in Fig. 29. 9. Carefully lower the crankshaft into place. Be careful not to damage the bearing surfaces. 10. Check the clearance of each main bearing following the procedure under fitting main and connecting rod bearings in Part 8-1.
11. After the bearings have been fitted apply a thin coating of oil-resistant sealer to the rear main bearing cap at the rear of the top mating surface (Fig. 30). Do not apply sealer to the area forward of the oil slinger groove. 12. Apply heavy engine oil MS to the journals and bearings. 13. Install the rear main bearing cap with the rear surface flush or slightly ahead of the rear of the cylinder block. Install all bearing caps, except the thrust bearing cap (No. 3 bearing). Be sure that the main bearing caps are installed in their original positions. Tighten the bearing cap bolts to specifications. 14. Install the thrust bearing cap with the bolts finger-tight. IS. Pry the crankshaft forward and pry the thrust bearing cap to the rear (Fig. 44). This will align the thrust surfaces of both halves of the bearing. 16, Retain the forward pressure on the crankshaft. Tighten the cap bolts to specifications. 17. Check the crankshaft end play (wear limit 0.012 inches). 18. Install the clutch pilot service bearing (Fig. 38). Coat the threads of the flywheel attaching ~olts with oil-resistant sealer. Position the rear cover plate on the block and the flywheel on the crankshaft flange. Install and tighten the bolts to specifications. On a flywheel for a manual-shift transmission, use tool 7SSO-A to locate the clutch disc. Install the pressure plate. 19. Turn the engine on the work stand so that the front end is up. 20. Position the sprockets and timing chain on the camshaft and crankshaft (Fig. 23). Be sure the timing marks on the sprockets are positioned as shown in Fig. 22. 21. Lubricate the timing chain and sprockets with engine oil. 22. Install the two piece fuel pump eccentric, washer and camshaft sprocket cap screw. Tighten the sprocket cap screw
to specifications. Install the crankshaft front oil slinger (Fig. 24 ). 23. Position a fuel pump gasket on the block and install the fuel pump. Tighten the fuel pump attaching screw and nut to specification. 24. Remove the front crankshaft seal from the cylinder front cover with the tool shown in Fig 19. Oean the cylinder front cover water pump and the cylinder block gasket surfaces. 2S. Coat the water pump gasket on both sides with sealer. Install the water pump and gasket onto the cylinder front cover. 26. Coat the cylinder front cover gasket on both sides with oil-resistant sealer. Install the cylinder front cover onto the alignment dowels. Install the timing pointer and front cover retaining screws. · 27. Install the pistons and connecting rods by following steps 1 thru 9 under Piston and Connecting Rod Installation. 28. Invert the engine on the work stand. Position the intermediate drive shaft into the distributor socket. With the shaft frrmly seated in the distributor socket, the stop on the shaft should touch the roof of the crankcase. Remove the shaft and position the stop as necessary. 29. With the stop properly positioned, insert the intermediate driveshaft into the oil pump. 30. Prime the oil pump by filling either the inlet or outlet port with engine oil. Rotate the pump shaft to distribute the oil within the pump body. 31. Position a new gasket on the pump housing and install the pump and shaft as an assembly. Tighten the oil pump attaching screws to specifications. 32. Clean the gasket surfaces of the block and oil pan. Coat the block surface and the oil pan gasket surface With sealer. Position new gaskets on the block and position a new seal on the cylinder front cover and rear main bearing cap. Make sure the tabs on the seal are over the oil pan gasket. Install the attaching screws and tighten them from the center outward to specifications (one screw secures the fuel line bracket). 33. Install the front crankshaft oil seal into the cylinder front cover with the tool shown in Fig. 20. 34. Lubricate the crankshaft with a white lead and oil mixture and apply Lubriplate to the oil seal rubbing surface of the vibration damper inner hub to prevent damage to the oil seal. 3S. Line up the crankshaft vibration damper keyway with the key on the crankshaft, and then install the vibration damper on the crankshaft (Fig. 21). Install the damper cap screw and washer, and tighten the screw to specifications. Install the crankshaft pulley. 36. Turn the engine on the work stand so that the top of the engine is up. 37. Clean the cylinder head and block gasket surfaces. Install the head gasket
8-65 over the cylinder head dowels. Do not apply sealer to the head gasket surfaces. 38. Place the cylinder head on the engine. Coat the head bolt threads with water-resistant sealer, and then install the bolts. 39. The cylinder head bolt tightening procedure is performed in three progressive steps. Tighten the bolts in sequence (Fig. 11) to SO ft-lbs, then to 60 ft-lbs and fmally to specifications. When cylinder head bolts have been tightened following this procedure it is not necessary to retorque the bolts after extended operation. However, tlie bolts may be checked and retightened if desired. 40. Coat the cylinder head mating surfaces of the exhaust manifold with a light film of graphite grease. 41. Position the exhaust manifolds on the cylinder heads and install the attaching bolts and flat washers. Tighten the attaching bolts to specifications, working from the center to the ends. 4 2. Install the spark plugs. 43. Use the hydraulic valve lifter leakdown tester (page8-9) to fill the lifters with test fluid. Coat the outside of each valve lifter and lifter bore with heavy engine oil MS to provide initial lubrication. Place each lifter in the bore from which it was removed. 44. Clean the mating surfaces of the intake manifold, cylinder heads and cylinder block. 4S . Position new seals on the cylinder block and press the seal locating extensions into the holes in the mating surface. Apply non-hardening sealer at the four junction points of the seals and cylinder heads. Position the intake manifold gasket onto the block and cylinder heads with the alignment notches under the dowels on the cylinder heads. Be sure the holes in the gasket are aligned with the holes in the cylinder head. 46. Carefully lower the intake manifold into position on the cylinder heads. 47. Be sure the holes in the manifold gaskets and manifold are in alignment. Install the intake manifold attaching bolts. Tighten the intake manifold bolts in three steps (Fig. 8). Tighten all bolts in sequence to 8-10 ft-lb. Tighten all bolts in sequence to lS-20 ft-lb. Tighten all bolts in sequence to specifications. After completing the remammg assembly steps, operate the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature, then retorque the manifold bolts in sequence to specifications. 48. Lubricate and install the push rods in their original positions. Apply Lubriplate or equivalent over the valve stem tips.
GROUP 8- ENGINE 49. With the No. 1 piston at TDC on the end of the compression stroke, POSITION A in Fig. 5 install the rocker arm, fulcrum seat and bolt and perform a valve clearance check on the following valves: No. 1 Intake No. 1 Exhaust No. 4 Intake No. 3 Exhaust No. 8 Intake No. 7 Exhaust Position the crankshaft in POSITION B, Fig. 5 and install the rocker arm, fulcrum seat and bolt and perform a valve clearance check on the following valves: No. 3 Intake No. 2 Exhaust No. 7 Intake No. 6 Exhaust Position the crankshaft in POSITION C, Fig. 5 and install the rocker arm, fulcrum seat and bolt and perform a valve clearance check on the following valves: No. 2 Intake No. 4 Exhaust No. 5 Intake No. 5 Exhaust No. 6 Intake No. 8 Exhaust Be sure the fulcrum seat base is inserted in its slot on tht cylinder head before tightening the fulcrum bolts. Tighten the fulcrum bolts to specification. Check the valve clearance following the procedures under Valve Clearance Checking Procedure. SO. Rotate the crankshaft until the No. 1 piston is TDC at the end of the compression stroke, then position the distributor in the block with the rotor at the No. 1 fuing position and the points just open. Install the hold down clamp. 51. Remove the water pump bypass orifice. plug (Fig. 47). Install a new water pump by-pass orifice plug with the tool shown in Fig. 48. 52. Coat a new thermostat housing gasket on both sides with sealer. Install the thermostat housing, thermostat and gasket. Tighten the thermostat housing bolts to specification. 53. Coat the threads of the oil pressure sending unit and the temperature
FIG. 47 - Water Pump By·PIJS$ Orfice Plug
FIG. 48- Installing Water Pump By·PIJS$ Orfice Plug
sending unit with electrical conductive sealer. Install the oil pressure and temperature sending units in the block. 54. Install the ignition coil Position and install the alternator and mounting bracket. 55. Connect the vacuum lines. 56 . Clean the valve rocker arm covers and the cylinder head gasket surfaces. Apply oil-resistant sealer to one side of new cover gaskets. Lay the cemented side of the gaskets in place in the covers. 57. Position the covers on the cylinder heads. Make sure the gasket seats evenly all around the head. Install the bolts. The cover is tightened in two steps. Tighten the bolts to specifications. Two minutes later, tighten the bolts to the same specifications. 58. Install the carburetor and connect the fuel pump to carburetor fuel line. 59. Install the crankcase ventilation system. 60. Install the distributor cap.
Position the spark plug wires in the brackets on the valve rocker arm covers. Connect the spark plug wires and the coil wire. 61. Clean the oil filter gasket surface. Coat the gasket on the filter with oil. Place the fllter in position on the adapter fitting. Hand tighten the filter until the gasket contacts the adapter face, then advance it 1/2 turn. 62. Install the engine in the vehicle. Fill and bleed the cooling system. Fill the crankcase with the proper grade and quantity of engine oil. 63. Operate the engine and check for oil and coolant leaks. Check and adjust the ignition timing. Connect the distributor vacuum hose to the distributor. Retorque intake manifold bolts to specifications. 64. Adjust the engine idle speed, fuel mixture and anti-stall dashpot (if applicable). Adjust the transmission throttle linkage.
8-61
PART 8·4
SPECIFICATIONS
GENERAL ENGINE
GENERAL ENGINE (Continued)
ENGINE MODELS AND PISTON DISPLACEMENT Cubic inches 200 Six 250 Six 302 V-8 351 V-8 COMPRESSION RATIO (HC) 200 Six 250 Six 302 V-8 (2-V) 351 V-8 (4-V) 351 V-8 (2-V)
11.0 : 1 9.5 ·: 1
COMPRESSION RATIO (LC) 200 250
8.0 : 1 8.2 : 1
8.8 : 1 9.1 : 1
BORE 200 250 302 351 351
170@ 2000 216@1700
AND STROKE Six SIX V-8 (2-V) V-8 (4-V) V-8 (2-V)
3.68 X 3.13 3.68 X 3.91 4.00 X 3.00 4.00 X 3.500 4.00 X 3.500
9.8: 1
BRAKE HORSEPOWER @ Specified rpm 130@ 4600 200 Six (HC) 155@ 4000 250 Six (HC) 170@ 4600 250-2V 230@ 5000 302 V-8 (2-V) 300@ 5400 351 V-8 (4-V) 250@ 4600 351 V-8 (2-V) 114 @ 4600 200 (LC) 138@ 4000 250 (LC) TOROUE-Ft-lbs @ Specified rpm 200 Six (HC) 250 Six (HC) 250-2V 302 V-8 (2 -V) 351 V-8 (4-V) 351 V-8 (2 -V)
200 (LC) 250 (LC)
190@ 240@ 250@ 300@ 380@ 355@
2000 1600 2800 2600 3400 2600
TAXABLE HORSEPOWER 200 and 250 Six 302 and 351 V-8 FIRING ORDER 200 and 250 Six 302 351
32.50 51.20 1-5-3-6-2-4 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
VALVE ARRANGEMENT-Front to Rear 200 and 250 Six E-1-1-E-1-E-E-1-E-1-1-E 302 and 351 V-8 Right 1-E-1-E-1-E-1-E Left E-1-E-1-E-1-E-1 ENGINE IDLE RPM Manual Shift Transmission 200 and 250 1V-2V 575-600 302 525-550 351 V-8 (2-V) 575 600 650-675 351 V-8 (4-V) AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION-Drive Range 200 and 250 1V-2V 500-525 302 475-500 351 550-575
COMPRESSION PRESSURE LIMITS- ALL ENGINES. Maximum
Minimum
Maximum
Minimum
Maximum
PSI
PSI
PSI
PSI
PSI
PSI
134 136 138 140 142 144 146 148 150 152 154 156 158 160 162 164 166 168 170 172
101 102 104 105 107 108 110 111 113 114 115 117 118 120 121 123 124 126 127 129
174 176 178 180 182 184 186 188 190 192 194 196 198 200 202 204 206 208 210 212
131 132 133 135 136 138 140 141 142 144 145 147 148 150 151 153 154 156 157 158
214 216 218 220 222 224 226 228 230 232 234 236 238 240 242 244 246 248 250
160 162 163 165 166 168 169 171 172 174 175 177 178 180 181 183 184 186 187
Quick Reference Compression Pressure Limit Chart
Minimum
8-68
GROUP 8- ENGINE VALVE MECHANISM (Continued)
GENERAL ENGINE (Continued) ENGINE IDLE MANIFOLD VACUUM-Minimum Inches of Mercury @ Specified Engine Neutral Idle rpm (Sea Level) 17 200 and 250-18 302 V-8 18 351V-8 18 IGNITION TIMING Manual shift and Automatic transmission 200 6° BTDC 250 6° BTDC For altitude operation al')d/or to obtain optimum engine performance and fuel economy, the initial timing may be advanced 3° over the 'normal' setting to a maximum initial advance of 9° NO FURTHER ADVANCE IS PERMISSIBLE Manual shift and Automatic transmission 6° BTDC 302 and 351 For altitude operation and/or to obtain optimum engine performance and fuel economy, the initial timing may be advanced 5o over the 'normal' setting to a maximum initial advance of 11°. NO FURTHER ADVANCE IS PERMISSIBLE. 01 L CAPACITY 200 and 250 Six 302 and ::l51 (V-8) *Includes 1.7 pints for filter. OIL PRESSURE-Hot @ 2000 rpm All Engines
IMP. PINTS 7.70* pints 8.0* pints
40 lbs. min.
CYLINDER HEAD GASKET SURFACE FLATNESS 0.003 inch in any 6 inches or 0.007 inch overall 0.003 inch in any 6 inches 302 and 351 or 0.006 inch overall VALVE GUIDE BORE DIAMETER-Standard Intake and Exhaust 200 and 250 0.3433-D.3443 302 and 351 VALVE SEAT WIDTH Intake and Exhaust 0.070-0.090 200 and 250 0.060-0.080 302 and 351 VALVE SEAT ANGLE 200 and 250 Intake 30° Exhaust 45° 302 and 351 Intake and Exhaust 45° 200 and 250
VALVE SEAT RUNOUT Maximum All Engines 0.0015 COMBUSTION CHAMBER VOLUME-CC 200 and 250 56.5-58.5 56.38-59.38 302 351 2-V = 76.76-79.76 351 4-V = 64.6-67.6 DECK HEIGHT VALVE MECHANISM
0.000-0.025
VALVE CLEARANCE-Lifter Collapsed 200 and 250 0.066-0.166 302 } 351 2-V .150 ± .050
351 4-V
.150 ± .050
VALVE STEM DIAMETER Standard INTAKE 200 and 250 302 and 351 EXHAUST 200 and 250 302 and 351 0.003 Oversize INTAKE 200 and 250 302 and 351 EXHAUST 200 and 250 302 and 351 0.015 Oversize INTAKE 200 and 2.50 302 and 351 EXHAUST 200 and 250 302 and 351 0.030 Oversize INTAKE 200 and 250 302 and 351 EXHAUST 200 and 250 302 anc.i 351 VALVE FACE ANGLE INTAKE 6 Cyl. 8 Cyl. EXHAUST-All Engines
0.3416-0.3423
0.3411-0.3418
0.3446-0.3453 0.3441-0.3448
0.3566-0.3573 0.3561-0.3568
0.3716-0.3723 0.3711-0.3718
29° 44° 44°
VALVE STEM TO VALVE GUIDE CLEARANCE INTAKE 200 and 250 0.001 0-0.0027-Wear 302 and 351 Limit 0.0045 EXHAUST 200 and 250 302 and 351 VALVE HEAD DIAMETER INTAKE 200 and 250 302 } 351 2-V EXHAUST 200 and 250 302 _V } 351 2 351 4-V EX 351 4-V IN. VALVE FACE RUNOUT Intake and Exhaust 200 and 250 302 and 351
0.0020-0.0032-Wear Limit 0.0045
1.642-1.657 2.032-2.050 1.381-1.396 1.650-1 .660 1.705-1 .715 2.183-2.198 0.0015 0.0020
VALVE SPRING FREE LENGTH-Approximate 1.79 200 and 250
PART 8-5- SPECIFICATIONS VALVE MECHANISM (Continued)
l
302 351 2-V 351 4-V
2.07 2 05
VALVE SPRING OUT OF SQUARE-Maximum All Engines .078 VALVE SPRING PRESSURE-Lbs@ Specified Lgth. 200 and 250 51-57@ 1.590 Wear Limit 46 @ 1.590 142-158 @ 1.222 Wear Limit 128 @ 1.222 VALVE SPRING-Lbs @Specified Length PRESSURE WEAR LIMIT 302, 351 2-V 76-84 @ 1.820 68 @ 1.820 199-221 @ 1.420 179 @ 1.420 351 4-V 85-95 @ 1.820 79 @ 1.820 271-299 @ 1.320 244 @ 1.320 VALVE SPRING ASSEMBLED HEIGHT 1 9/16-1 39/64 200 and 250 302-} 1 13/16-1 27/32 351 VALVE PUSH ROD MAXIMUM RUNOUT All Engines 0.020 VALVE TAPPET DIAMETER-Standard 0.8740-0.8745 All Engines VALVE TAPPET TO TAPPET BORE CLEARANCE All Engines 0.0007-0.0027-Wear Limit 0.005 HYDRAULIC VALVE LIFTER LEAK DOWN RATE -Wear Limit All Engines (measured at 1/16 inch Plunger 5-50 Seconds Travel) ROCKER ARM TO ROCKER ARM SHAFT CLEARANCE 200 and 250 0.002-0.0045-Wear Limit 0.006 ROCKER ARM SHAFT O.D. 200 and 250
0.780-0.781
ROCKER ARM BORE DIAMETER 200 and 250
0.783-0.784
CAMSHAFT AND TIMING CHAIN CAMSHAFT JOURNAL DIAMETER-Standard 1.8095-1.8105 200 and 250 CAMSHAFT JOURNAL-Diameter 302,351 1 2.1238-2.1248 2 2.0655-2.0665 3 2.0505-2.0515 4 2.0355-2.0365 5 2.0205-2.0215 CAMSHAFT JOURNAL TO BEARING CLEARANCE All Engines 0.001-0.003-Wear Limit 0.006 CAMSHAFT JOURNAL ROUND All Engines
MAXIMUM
OUT-OF0.0005
TIMING CHAIN MAXIMUM DEFLECTION All Engines 0.5 CAMSHAFT LOBE LIFT 0.2455200 and 250 Intake and Exhaust Wear Limit 0.240
8-69
CAMSHAFT AND TIMING CHAIN (Continued) 302, 351 2-V Intake 0.235 351 4-V 0.247 302, 351 2-V Exhaust 0.235 351 4-V 0.262 CAMSHAFT END PLAY 200 and 250 0.001-0.007-Wear Limit 0.012 0.001 -0.006 -Wear Limit 0.009 302 and 351
VALVE TIMING 200 and 250 Intake Opens at 19° BTDC at 0.0022" Lobe Lift Intake Closes at 53° ABDC at 0.00475" Lobe Lift Exhaust Opens at 60° BBDC at 0.0022'" Lobe Lift Exhaust Closes at 16° ATDC at 0.00475'" Lobe Lift 2-V 4-V 302, 351 Intake Opens at 12 o 18° BTDC at 0.004'" Lobe Lift Intake Closes at66°70° ABDC at0.006" Lobe Lift Exhaust Opens at 66 o 81° B B DC at 0.004" Lobe Lift Exhaust Closes at 20 o 19° ATDC at 0.006'" Lobe Lift VALVE ROCKER RATIO 200 and 250 302,351
1.54 : 1 1.73 : 1
CAMSHAFT BEARINGS INSIDE DIAMETER 200 and 250 1.8115-1 .8125 No. 1 bearing is installed with the front edge 0.11 5 to 0.125 inch toward the rear from the front face of the cylinder block. CAMSHAFT BEARING-Inside Diameter 2.1258-2.1268 302,351 1 2.0675-2.0685 2 2.0525-2.0535 3 4 2.0375-2.0385 2.0225-2.0235 5 No. 1 bearing is installed with the front edge 0.005 to 0.020 inch toward the rear from the front face of the cylinder block.
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING JOURNAL DIAMETER Standard 200 and 250 2.3990-2.3982 302, 351
2.7484-2.7492
MAIN BEARING JOURNAL RUNOUT-Maximum 200 and 250 0.0025-Wear Limit 0.0035 302, 351
0.004-Wear Limit 0.004
MAIN BEARING JOURNALS MAXIMUM OUTOF-ROUND All Engines 0.0004 CONNECTING ROD BEARING JOURNALS MAXIMUM TAPER 200 and 250 0.0004 per inch 302 and 351 MAIN BEARING JOURNALS MAXIMUM TAPER All Engines 0.0003 per inch _
GROUP 8-ENGINE
8-70
CONNECTING ROD (Continued)
CRANKSHAFT (Continued) THRUST BEARING JOURNAL LENGTH 200 and 250 1.275-1 .277 302, 351
1.124-1.126
MAIN BEARING JOURNAL THRUST FACE RUNOUT 0.001 All Engines CONNECTING ROD JOURNAL DIAMETER Standard 2.1232-2.1240 200 and 250 302, 351
2.3103-2.3111
CRANKSHAFT FREE END PLAY All Engines 0.004-0.010-Wear Limit 0.012 ASSEMBLED FLYWHEEL CLUTCH FACE MAXIMUM RUNOUT 200 and 250 0.007 302 and 351 O.Q1 0 ASSEMBLED FLYWHEEL O.D. MAXIMUM RUNOUT Standard Transmission All Engines O.Q18 Automatic Transmission All Engines 0.020
BEARING TO CRANKSHAFT CLEARANCE Desired Allowable 0.0005-0.0022 200 and 250 0.0005-0.0015 0.0001-0.0015 302, 351 WALL THICKNESS Standard 200 and 250 0.0758-0.0761 302 and 351 0.0959-0.0962
0.0008-0.0026 0.002 U.S. 0.0768-0.0771 0.0969-0.0972
PIN BORE DIAMETER Standard 0.9107-0.9112 200 and 250 302 and 351 0.9104-0.9112 BEARING BORE DIAMETER-Standard 200-250 2.2390-2.2398 302-351 2.4361-2.4369 BEARING BORE MAXIMUM OUT OF ROUND 200 and 250 0.0003-0.0004 302 and 351 0.0004 BEARING BORE MAXIMUM TAPER All Engines
0.0004
CONNECTING ROD LENGTH-Centre to Centre 302,351
CONNECTING ROD* Twist Maximum Total Difference 200 and 250 0.008 302 and 351 0.012 Bend Maximum Total Difference All Engines 0.004 *Piston pin bore and crankshaft bearing bore must be parallel and in the same vertical plane within the specified total difference at ends of 8-i nch long bar measured 4-i nches on each side of rod .
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS BEARING TO CRANKSHAFT CLEARANCE Desired Allowable 0.0008-0.0024 200 and 250 0.0008-0.0015 302 and 351 0.001-0.0015 0.0008-0.0026 BEARING WALL THICKNESS FOR STANDARD AND UNDERSIZE JOURNAL 0.002 U.S. Standard 0.0583- 0.0588 200 and 250 0.0571-0.0574 302} 0.0630-0.0635 351 0.0620-0.0625
PISTON DIAMETER-At Right Angle to Pin Centreline Colour Coded Red 200 and 250 3.6778-3.6784 302 3.9982-3.9988 351 } Colour Coded Blue 200 and 250 3.6790-3.6796 302} 351 3.9994-4.0000 PISTON TO CYLINDER BORE CLEARANCE 200 and 250 0.0010-0.0018
CONNECTING ROD
6.274-6.271
0.01 0-0.020Wear Limit 0.023
PISTON
MAIN BEARINGS
200
302 and 351
250
5.882-5.879 5.7785-5.7815
CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLYAssembled to Crankshaft Side Clearance 0.0035-0.01 05200 and 250 Wear Limit 0.014
302 } 351 PISTON PIN BORE DIAMETER All Engines RING GROOVE WIDTH Upper Compression Ring All Engines Lower Compression Ring All Engines Oil Ring All Engines
0.0014-0.0022 0.9122-0.9125
0.080- 0.081 0.080- 0.081 0.1880- 0.1890
PISTON PIN PISTON PIN DIAMETER Standard All Engines PISTON PIN LENGTH All Engines
0.9119-0.9124 3.010-3.040
PISTON PIN TO PISTON CLEARANCE-Loose 200 and 250 0.0003-0.0005
PART 8-5- SPECIFICATIONS PISTON PIN (Continued) 302 and 351
OIL PUMP-Rotor Type (Continued) 0.0003-0.0005 Wear Limit 0.0008
PISTON RINGS RING WIDTH Compression Ring UPPER All Engines LOWER All Eng ines SIDE CLEARANCE Compression Ring UPPER All Eng ines LOWER All Engines
RELIEF VALVE CLEARANCE All Engines
0.0015-0.0029
DRIVE SHAFT TO HOUSING BEARING CLEARANCE All Engines 0.0015-0.0029 0.0770-0.0781 0.0770-0.0780
0.0020-0.0040-Wear Limit 0.006 0.0020-0.0040-Wear Lim it 0.006
Oil Ring All Engines RING GAP WIDTH Compression Ring-Standard Bore-Upper All Engines
8-71
ROTOR ASSEMBLY END CLEARANCE-Pump Assembled 0.0011-0.0041 All Engines OUTER RACE TO HOUSING-Radial Clearance All Engines 0.006-0.013 Engine Weights (Lbs.) 200 Wet 408 Dry 390 250 Wet 420 Dry 402 302. 351 Wet 719 Dry 698
Snug TORQUE LIMITs-Ft. Lbs. ALL MODELS
0.01 0-0.020
Compression Ring-Standard Bore-Lower All Engines O.Q1 0-0.020 Oil Ring *-Standard Bore 200 and 250 0.01 5-0.055 0.015-0.069 302 and 351 *Steel Rail
CYLINDER BLOCK CYLINDER BORE DIAMETER-Standard Spreads for 8 Grades 3.6R00-3.6824 200 and 250 302} 4.000-4.0024 351
Oil the threads with lightweight engine oil. except do not oil threads that require oil-resistant or water-resistant sealer. MAIN BEARING CAP BOLTS 302 351C 95-105 60-70 Other Engines CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS 6 Cyl. 55 Step 1 65 Step 2 70-75 Step 3 302,351 Step 1 Step 2 Step 3
CYLINDER BORE MAXIMUM OUT-OF - ROUND All Engines 0.001-Wear Limit 0.005 CYLINDER BOAE TAPER All Engines 0.001-Wear Lim it 0.01 0
OIL PAN TO CYLINDER BLOCK 6 Cyl. 8 Cyl 1/4-20 Bolt 5/16-18 Bolt
HEAD GASKET SURFACE FLATNESS All Six 0.003 inch in any 6 or 0.007 inch All V-8 0.003 inch in any 6 or 0.006 inch
MANIFOLDS TO CYLINDER HEAD Intake
inches overall inches overall
MAIN BEARING BORE DIAMETER 2.4012-2.4020 200 and 250 302 } 351
2.9417-2.94?9
OIL PUMP-Rotor Type RELIEF VALVE SPRING TENSIONLbs. @ Specified Length in inches 200 and 250 9.0-10.1 @ 1.078 302} 23.6-24.6 @ 1.37 351
302, 351. 250 2V 302,351 Exhaust All Engines
55 75 95-105
7-9 7- 9 11-13
21-25 (5/16) 27-33 (3/8) 13-18
FLYWHEEL TO CRANKSHAFT All Engines
75-85
OIL PUMP TO CYLINDER BLOCK 6 Cyl. 8 Cvl.
12-15 25-35
8-72
GROUP 8- ENGINE
TORQUE LIMITS-Ft. Lbs. ALL MODELS (Cont.) OIL PUMP COVER PLATE 6 Cyl. Engines 8 Cyl. Engines
6-9 9-12
TORQUE LIMITs-Ft. Lbs. ALL MODELS (Cont.) VALVE ROCKER ARM COVER All Engines
OIL FILTER ADAPTER TO CYLINDER BLOCK 8 Cyl. 351-302 20-50
VALVE ROCKER SHAFT SUPPORT TO CYLINDER HEAD 6 Cyl.
OIL FILTER TO ADAPTER OF CYLINDER BLOCK All Engines With grease on the gasket surface. hand tighten until gasket contacts adapter face. Then tighten 1/2 turn more.
ROCKER ARM BOLT TO CYL. HEAD
CYLINDER FRONT COVER 6 Cyl. 8 Cyl.
FUEL PUMP TO CYLINDER BLOCK OR CYLINDER FRONT COVER
7-9 14-20
WATER OUTLET HOUSING 12-15 All Engines OIL PAN DRAIN PLUG All Engines 1 5-20 CAMSHAFT THRUST PLATE TO CYLINDER BLOCK 12-15 6 Cyl. 8 Cyl. 9-12 WATER PUMP TO CYLINDER BLOCK OR FRONT COVER All Engines 12-15 CAMSHAFT SPROCKET TO CAMSHAFT 6 Cyl. 8 Cyl.
35-45 40-45
CRANKSHAFT PULLEY TO VIBRATION DAMPER UBS BOLTS 25-35 PLACE BOLTS 35-45 CONNECTING ROD NUTS 200-250 and 302 19-24 302,351 40-45
3-5
30-35
18-25 OIL INLET TUBE TO OIL PUMP All Engines
12-15
12-15 200 and.250 14-20 302 351 ENGINE FRONT SUPPORT-Nuts or Bolts Insulator Assembly to Engine 35-60 8 Cvl-. Insulator Assembly to Support Brackets 6 Cyl. 24-34 302 8 Cyl. } 20-30 351 8 Cyl. Support Bracket to Body 6 Cyl. 18-25 8 Cyl. 20-30 Insulator Bracket to Engine 6 Cyl. 18-25 Insulator to Insulator Bracket 6 Cyl. 18-25 ENGINE REAR SUPPORT-Nuts or Bolts Insulator to Rear Support All Engines 30-50 Rear Support to Body All Engines 50-70 Insulator to Transmission 30-45 All Engines
FALCON FAIRLANE w~:~~~~P
,;
IGNITION SYSTEM
GROUP 9
PAGE PART 9-1-
General Ignition System Service
PART 9-2-
Dual Advance Distributor-Bosch
9-14
PART 9-3-
Dual Advance Distributor-Motorcraft
9-18
PART 9-4-
Specifications
9-24
9-2
9-2
PART
9·1
GENERAL IGNITION SYSTEM SERVICE
Section 1 Diagnosis and Testing General Information Ignition System Tests-Conventional Test Equipment . Distributor Checks Di~tributor Tests-Dwell Tester Distributor Tests-Distributor Tester 2 Common Adjustments and Repairs Breaker Points and Condenser .. Ignition Timing Spark Plug Wire Replacement
This part covers ignitioh system description and operation, general ignition system diagnosis, tests, adjustments and repair operations. In addition, the cleaning and inspection procedures are covered. For distributor removal, disassembly, assembly, installation, major repair procedures and specifications, refer to the pertinent part of this group. The distributor identification num-
D
Page 9-2 9-2 9-3
9-5 9-5 9-5 9-7 9-7 9-8
9-9
Section Spark Plugs ...... Resistance Wire Replacement 3 Cleaning and Inspection Spark Plugs Distributors Secondary Wiring Coil Distributor Cap Rotor .... ...... . .... .. Distributor Vacuum Advance Control Valve
ber is stamped on the distributor body. The basic part number for Motorcraft 351 distributors is 12127 and for Bosch 351, 302, 250 & 200 distributors is 12100. To procure replacement parts it is necessary to know the complete part number. In addition, Bosch distributors can be identified by their diaphragm colour coding as follows: 200 C.I.D. H.C. Blue, L.C. Black,
Pare 9-10 9-10 9- 10 9- 10 9- 10 9-12 9-12 9-12 9-12
9-12
L.L.C. Yellow. 250 C.I.D. H.C. Red, L.C. White . 250 C.I.D. 2V Green. 302 C.I.D. Manual & · Auto Red. 351 C.I.D. 2V Auto Yellow. A majority of the parts used in the Bosch distributor are not interchangeable with earlier models. Always refer to the Master Parts Catalogue for parts usage and interchangeability before replacing a distribqtor or a component part for a distributor.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
GENERAL INFORMATION
The ignition system consists of a primary (low voltage) and a secondary (high voltage) circuit (Fig. 1). The primary circuit consists of the: 1. Battery. 2. Ignition switch. 3. Primary circuit resistance wire. 4. Primary windings of the ignition coil. 5. Breaker points. 6. Condenser. The secondary citcuit consists of the: 1. Secondary windings of the ignition coil. 2. Distributor rotor. 3. Distributor cap. 4. High tension wires. 5. Spark plugs. When the breaker points are closed, the primary or low voltage current flows from the battery throug~ the ignition switch to the primary windings in the coil. then to
SPARK PlUG
BATTERY
-PRIMARY CIRCUIT •••••• ~ECONOARY CIRCUIT
FIG. 1 -Typical Ignition System Circuit
••••••••
PART 9-1- GENERAL IGNITION SYSTEM SERVICE ground through the closed breaker points. When the breaker points open, the magnetic field built up in the primary windings of the coil moves through the secondary windings of the coil producing high voltage current. High voltage current is produced each time the breaker points open. The high voltage flows through the coil high tension lead to the distributor cap where the rotor distributes it to one of the spark plug terminals in the distributor cap. This process is repeated for every power stroke of the engine.
2. Burned, shorted, sticking or improperly adjusted breaker points. 3. A defective coil. 4. A defective condenser. To isolate a trouble in the primary circuit, proceed as follows: Turn the ignition switch off and remove the auxiliary starter switch from the starter relay. Install the coil high tension lead in the distributor cap, the red and blue wire on the starter relay S terminal and the brown wire on the starter relay I terminal. Now perform a primary circuit test.
IGNITION SYSTEM TESTSCONVENTIONAL TEST EQUIPMENT
TROUBLE ISOLATION Ignition system troubles are caused by a failure in the primary and/ or the secondary circuit or incorrect ignition timing. If an engine trouble has been traced to the ignition system from the "Engine Trouble Diagnosis Guide," the trouble can be found by performing an ignition system test on a scope or by further isolating the trouble to the primary or secondary circuit as follows: 1. Disconnect the brown wire from the starter relay I terminal and the red and blue wire from the starter relay S terminal. 2. Remove the coil high tension lead from the distributor cap. 3. Turn on the ignition switch. 4. While holding the high tension lead approximately 3/t_a inch from the
FIG. 2 -Battery to Coil and Starting Ignition Circuit Test
9-3
Secondary Circuit
FIG. 3 -Ignition Switch Test cylinder head or any other good ground, crank the engine by using an auxiliary starter switch between the starter relay battery and S terminals. If the spark is good, the trouble lies in the secondary circuit. If there is no spark or a weak spark, the trouble is in the primary circuit, coil to distributor high tension lead, or the coil. Primary Circuit
A breakdown or energy loss in the primary circuit can be caused by: 1. Defective primary wiring, or loose or corroded terminals.
FIG. 4 -Resistance Wire Test
A breakdown or energy loss in the secondary circuit can be caused by: 1. Fouled or improperly adjusted sparlr plugs. l. Defective high tension wiring. 3. High tension leakage across the coil, distributor cap or rotor resulting from an accumulation of dirt. To isolate a trouble in the secondary circuit, proceed as follows : Turn the ignition switch off and remove the auxiliary starter switch from the starter relay. Install the coil high tension lead in the distributor cap, the red and blue wire on the starter relay S terminal and the l,rown wire on the starter relay I terminal. Now perform a secondary circuit test. PRIMARY CIRCUIT TESTS A complete test of the primary cir-
FIG. 5-Coil to Ground Test
9-4
GROUP 9-
cuit consists of checking the circuit from the battery to the coil, the circuit from the coil to ground, and the starting ignition circuit. Excessive voltage drop in the primary circuit will reduce the secondary output of the ignition coil, resulting in hard starting and poor performance. Battery to Coli Test 1. Connect the voltmeter leads as shown in Fig. 2. 2. Install a jumper wire from the distributor terminal of the coil to a good ground on the distributor housing. 3. Turn the lights and accessories off. 4. Turn the ignition switch on. 5. If the voltmeter reading is 6.9 volts or less, the primary circuit from the battery to the coil is satisfactory. 6. If the voltmeter reading is greater than 6.9 volts, check the following: The battery and cables for loose connections or corrosion. The primary wiring for worn insulation, broken strands, and loose or corroded terminals. The resistance wire for defects. The starter relay to ignition switch for defects. Starting Ignition Circuit Test 1. Connect the voltmeter leads as shown in Fig. 2. l. Disconnect and ground the coil to distributor high tension lead at the distributor. 3. With the ignition switch off, crank the engine by installing a jumper wire between the battery and the "S" terminal of the starter relay while observing the voltage drop. 4. If the voltage drop is 0.1 volt or less, the starting ignition circuit is satisfactory. 5. If the voltage drop is greater than 0.1 volt, clean and tighten the terminals in the circuit or replace the wiring as necessary. Ignition Switch Test 1. Connect the voltmeter leads as shown in Fig. 3. l. Install a jumper wire from the distributor terminal of the coil to a good ground on the distributor body. 3. Turn all of the accessories and lights off. 4. Turn the ignition switch on. 5. If the voltmeter reading is 0.3 volt or less, the ignition switch and the relay to switch wire are satisfac-
IGNITION SYSTEM
tory. 6. If the voltmeter reading is greater than 0.3 volt, either the ignition switch and/ or the wire are defective.
and Inspection (Section 3 of this part). Check the coil on a coil tester by following the manufacturers instructions.
Resistance Wire Test 1. Connect the voltmeter leads as shown in Fig. 4. l. Install a jumper wire from the distributor terminal of the coil to a good ground on the distributor housing. 3. Turn all of the accessories and lights off. 4. Tum the ignition switch on. 5. If the voltmeter reading is 6.6 volts or less, the resistance wire is satisfactory. 6. If the voltmeter reading is greater than 6.6 volts, replace the resistance wire.
SECONDARY CIRCUIT TESTS
Coli to Ground Test 1. Connect the voltmeter leads as shown in Fig. 5. l. Close the breaker points. 3. Turn all lights and accessories off. 4. Turn the ignition switch on. 5. If the voltmeter reading is 0.1 volt or Jess, the primary circuit from coil to ground is satisfactory. 6. If the voltmeter reading is greater than 0.1 volt, test the voltage drop between each of the following: The coil and breaker point terminals of the coil to distributor primary wire. The movable breaker point and the breaker plate. The breaker plate and the distributor housing. The distributor housing and engine ground. Breaker Points Clean and inspect the breaker points by following the procedure under Cleaning and Inspection (Section 3 of this part). The breaker point dwell can be checked with a distributor tester or a dwell meter by following the procedure under Distributor Tests in this section of the manual. The breaker p"int resistance can be checked with ;_ distributor tester by following the procedure under Distributor Tests in this section of the manual. Coli Clean and inspect the coil by following the procedure under Cleaning
Distributor Cap Clean and inspect the distributor cap by following the procedure under Cleaning and Inspection (Section 3 of this part). Rotor Clean and inspect the rotor by following the procedure under Cleaning and Inspection (Section 3 of this part). Secondary (High Tension) Wires The secondary wires include the wires connecting the distributor cap to the spark plugs and the wire connecting the center terminal of the distributor cap to the center terminal of the ignition coil. Clean and inspect the secondary wiring by following the procedure under Cleaning and Inspection (Section 3 of this part). These wires are the radio resistance-type which filter out the high frequency electrical impulses that are the source of ignition noise interference. The resistance of each wire should not exceed 7000 ohms per foot.
When checking the resistance of the wires or setdng lpltion timing, do not puncture the wires with a probe. The probe may cause a sep· aratioa In the conductor. When removing the wires from the spark plugs, grasp and twist the moulded cap, then puB the cap off the spark plug. Do not pull on the wire because the wire connection Ia· ade the cap may become separated or the Insulator seal may be dam· aged. To check the.spark intensity at the spark plugs, proceed as follows: 1. Disconnect a spark plug wire. Check the spark Intensity of one wire at a time. 2. Install a terminal adapter in the terminal of the wire to be checked. Hold the adapter approximately 3fw inch from the exhaust manifold and crank the · engine, using a remote starter switch. The spark should jump the gap regularly. 3. If the spark intensity of all the wires is satisfactory, the coil, condenser, rotor, distributor cap and the
PART 9-1- GENERAL IGNITION SY.STEM SERVICE secondary wires are probably satisfactory. If the spark is good at only some wires, check the resistance of the faulty leads. If the spark is equal at all wires, but weak or intermittent, check the coil, distributor cap and the coil to distributor high tension wire. Spark Plugs Inspect, clean and gap the plugs following the instructions in sections 2 and 3. After the proper gap is obtained, check the plugs on a testing machine. Compare the sparking efficiency of the cleaned and gapped plug with a new plug. Replace the piug if it fails to meet 70% of the new plug performance. Test the plugs for compression leakage at the insulator seal. Apply a coating of oil to the shoulder of the plug where the insulator projects through the shell, and to the top of the plug, where the center electrode and terminal project from the insulator. Place the spark plug under pressure with the tester's high tension wire removed from the spark plug. LeakJge is indicated by air bubbling through the oil. If the test indicates compression leakage, replace the plug. If the plug is satisfactory, wipe it clean. Ignition Timing
Incorrect ignition timing can be caused by: 1. Timing incorrectly adjusted. 2. Distributor bushing and/ or shaft worn, or a bent distributor shaft. 3. Defective vacuum advance system. 4. Defective centrifugal advance system.
DISTRIIUTOR CHICKS Dual Advance Distributor 1. Remove the distributor from the engine. 2. Place the distributor in the holding tool and clamp it in a vise with the gear end up. 3. Push the distributor shaft upward as far as it will go, and check the end play with a feeler aauae placed between the collar and the distributor base. The end play should be within the specified limits. DISTRIBUTOR TISTI-DWELL TESTER TEST CONNECTIONS 1. Connect the red lead to the distributor terminal of the coil.
2. Connect the black lead to a good around on the engine. DWELL ANGLE CHECK 1. Connect the tester. 2. Turn the test control knob to the set position. 3, Adjust the set control knob until the needle on the dwell meter lines up with the set line. 4. Start the engine and let it idle. 5. Turn the test control knob to the 8 CYL position for eight cylinder engines or to the 6 CYL position for 6 cylinder engines. 6. Read the dwell angle on the dwell meter and compare the reading to specifications. 7. Turn off the engine. 8. If the dwell angle was below the specified amount, the breaker point gap is too large. If the dwell angle was above the specified amount, the breaker point gap is too small. If the dwell is to specifications, turn the test selector knob to the OFF position and disconnect the tester leads.
DWELL ANGLE ADJUSTMENT If the dwell angle is not within specifications, proceed as follows:
1. Remove the coil high tension lead from the distributor and ground it. 2. Remove the distributor cap and place it out of the way.
3. Disconnect the · brown wire (I terminal) and the red and blue wire (S terminal) from the starter relay.
FIG. 6 -
9-5
4. Loosen the breaker point assembly retaining screw near the breaker point contacts.
5. With the ignition on, crank the engine with an auxiliary starter switch connected between the battery and S terminals of the starter relay and adjust the gap to specifications. 6. Release the auxiliary starter switch and tighten the breaker point assembly retaining screw. 7. Since the adjustment may have changed when the retaining screw was tightened, crank the engine again with the auxiliary starter switch and check the dwell. DISTRIBUTOR TESTS DISTRIBUTOR TESTERS
MOUNTING DISTRIBUTOR Set up the distributor in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Bosch distributors fitted to Falcon engines have only one bearing in the distributor housing. When phasing and cam angle testing these distributors a lower bearing must be provided. As a variety of test benches are available it is impossible to release a common bearing and bracket as an essential tool. The sketch and dimensions (Fig. 6) will enable manufacture of a bearing and support which can be adapted to suit individual test benches.
Iosch Distributor Supports
GROUP 9-
9-6 Dimension 6 Cylinder A 1.75 B 1.136 c 1.301-1.300 D 2.520-2.517 E 3.1 0.516-0.517 F
8 Cylinder 1.9 1.16 1.559-1.561 4.018-4.021 4.5 0.516-0.517
NOTE: Missing dimensions according to individual test bench. All dimensions in inches.
BREAKER POINT RESISTANCE 1. Turn the test selector to the appropriate position. 2. Revolve the chuck by hand until the distributor breaker points are closed. 3. The meter pointer on the cam angle meter should read in the OK zone. If the meter pointer does not fall in the OK zone, there is excessive resistance caused by a faulty contact across the distributor points, a faulty primary lead, or a poorly grounded base plate. A faulty contact across the distributor points indicates improper spring tension or burned or pitted points. INSULATION AND LEAKAGE 1. Turn the test selector to the cam angle position and revolve the chuck by hand until the distributor breaker contacts are open. 2. The cam angle meter should show a zero reading. If a zero reading is not obtained, a short circuit to ground exists. A short could be caused by poor primary lead wire insulation, a shorted condenser, or a short between the breaker arm and breaker plate. MECHANICAL OPERATION 1. Turn the test selector to the SYNCHRO. position and check to make sure the drive chuck is securely tightened on the distributor shaft. 2. Turn the motor control switch to the setting for an eight cylinder car or for a six cylinder car. If it Is necessary to reverse the rotation of the drive motor, tum the motor control switch to the OFF position and allow the chuck to come to a complete stop before reversing the switch. 3. Adjust the rpm control to vary the distributor speed between 400 and 4000 engine rpm or at the maxi-
IGNITION SYSTEM
mum speed of the engine on which the distributor is used. Erratic or thin faint flashes of light preceding the regular flashes as the speed of rotation is increased can be due to weak breaker arm spring tension or binding of the breaker arm on the pivot pin. 4. Operate the distributor at approximately 2500 engine rpm. 5. Move the protractor scale with the adjustment control so that the zero degree mark on the scale is opposite one of the neon flashes. The balance of all the flashes should come within 1o, plus or minus, evenly around the protractor scale. A variation larger than 1 o or erratic or wandering flashes may be caused by a worn cam or distributor shaft or a bent distributor shaft. DWELL ANGLE 1. Turn the cylinder selector to the figure corresponding to the number of lobes on the cam of the distributor being tested. 2. Turn the test selector switch to the cam angle position and operate the distributor at approximately 250 engine rpm. 3. Adjust the distributor breaker point gap to the dwell angle shown in the specifications.
BREAKER PLATE WEAR A worn breaker plate on the dual advance distributors will cause the breaker point dwell to change as engine speed and load condition are varied. On the dual advance distributor adjust the test set to 0 o advance, 0 inches vacuum, and 250 rpm. Adjust the dwell angle to specifications. Apply vacuum to the distributor diaphragm and increase it very slowly while observing the indicated dwell angle. The maximum dwell angle variation should not exceed 6 o when going from zero to maximum vacuum at constant rpm. If the dwell angle variation exceeds this limit, there is excessive wear at the stationary subplate pin or the diaphragm. DISTRIBUTOR SPARK ADVANCE The spark advance is checked to determine if the ignition timing advances in proper relation to engine speed and load. Dual Advance Distributor 1. Check the contact dwell. If the contact dwell is not within specifica-
tions, adjust the breaker points. 2. Check the breaker arm spring tension and adjust it if necessary. The dual advance distributor has two independently operated spark advance systems. Each system is adjusted separately. Adjust the centrtf· upl advance before adjusting the vacuum advance. Centrifugal Advance
1. Operate the distributor in the direction of rotation and adjust the speed to the initial rpm setting listed in the specifications. Move the protractor scale so that one of the flashes lines up with the zero degree mark. 2. Slowly increase the rpm to the setting specified for the first advance reading listed in the specifications. If the correct advance is not indicated at this rpm, stop the distributor and bend one spring adjustment bracket to change its tension (Fig. 7. Bend the adjustment bracket away from the distributor shaft to decrease advance (increase spring tension) and toward the shaft to increase advance (decrease spring tension). Mter the adjustment is made, identify the bracket. 3. After an adjustment has been made to one spring, check the minimum advance point again. 4. Operate the distributor at the specified rpm to give an advance just below the maximum. If this advance is not to specifications, stop the distributor and bend the other spring bracket to give the correct advance. 5. Check the advance at all rpm settings listed in the specifications. Operate the distributor both up and down the rpm range. Vacuum Advance 1. Connect the test set vacuum line to the fitting on the diaphragm. 2. Set the test set to 0 o advance, 0 vacuum, and at 250 rpm. 3. Check the advance at the first vacuum setting given in the specifications. 4. On 8 cylinder single diaphragm distributors, if the advance is incorrect, change the calibration washers between the vacuum chamber spring and out (Fig. 8). After installing or removing the washers, position the gasket in place and tighten the nut. The addition of a washer will decrease advance and the removal of a washer will increase advance. 5. After one vacuum setting has been adjusted, the others should be checked. Do not change the orig-
PART 9-1-
GENERAL IGNITION SYSTEM SERVICE
inal rpm setting when going to a different vacuum setting. If the other settings are not within limits, it ind~cates incorrect spring tension, leakage in the vacuum diaphragm and/ or line, or the wrong fibre stop has been installed in the vacuum chamber of the diaphragm housing. To check the diaphragm for leakage: Remove the vacuum line from the distributor. Adjust the vacuum pressure of a distributor tester to its maximum position. Hold your hand over the end of the tester's vacuum hose and note the maximum reading obtained. Do not exceed lS inches HK.
If the maximum reading is 25 inches Hg or less, connect the tester's vacuum line to the vacuum fitting on
EJ
9-7
SPACING WASHERS
Vacuum Advance Adjustment FIG. 8 -
FIG. 7 - Centrifugal
Advance Adjustment
' the diaphragm without changing any of the adjustments. The maximum gauge reading should not be less than it was above. If it is less, the diaphragm is leaking and should be replaced.
COMMON ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
BREAKER POINTS AND CONDENSER REPLACEMENT Dual Advance Distributors
Removal 1. Remove the distributor cap and the rotor. l. Disconnect the primary and the condenser wires from the breaker point assembly. 3. Remove the breaker point assembly and condenser retaining screws. Lift the breaker point assembly and condenser out of the distributor. Installation 1. Place the breaker point assembly and the condenser in position and install the retaining screws. Be sure to place the ground wire under the breaker point assembly screw farthest from the breaker point contacts. l. Align and adjust the breaker point assembly. 3. Connect the primary and condenser wires to the breaker point assembly. 4. Install the rotor and the distr-ibutor cap. BREAKER POINT ALIGNMENT The vented-type breaker points must be accurately aligned and strike squarely in order to realize the full advantages provided by this design and assure normal breaker point life. Any misalignment of the breaker point surfaces will cause premature
wear, overheating and pitting. 1. Turn the cam so that the breaker points are closed and check the alignment of the points (Fig. 9 ) .
riil\:a:~ \8) CORRECT-~ ALIGNMENT
CONTACT@ AREA NOT CENTERED BEND STATIONARY BRACKET
M~::::@NT AREA NOT CENTERED
ISALIGNMENT OF POINT FACES
FIG. 10- Aligning
Breaker Points
11019-A
FIG. 9 - Breaker Point
Alignment If the distributor is in the engine, close the points by proceeding as follows: Disconnect the brown wire and the red and blue wire from the starter relay and, with the ignition switch off, crank the engine by using an auxiliary starter switch between the S and the battery terminals of the starter relay. l. Align the breaker points to make full face contact by bending the stationary breaker point bracket (Fig. 10) . Do not bend the breaker arm.
3. After the breaker points have been properly aligned, adjust the breaker point gap or dwell. BREAKER POINT GAP ADJUSTMENT A scope, a dwell meter, or a feeler gauge can be used to check the gap of new breaker points. A scope or a dwell meter can be used to check the gap of used breaker points. Due to the roughness of used points, it is not advisable to use a feeler gauge to check the gap. To check and adjust the breaker points with a feeler gauge: 1. Check and adjust the breaker point alignment. l. Rotate the distributor until the rubbing block rests on the peak of a cam lobe.
GROUP 9- IGNITION SYSTEM
9-8 If the distributor is in the engine place the rubbing block on the peak of the cam by proceeding as follows: Disconnect the brown wire and the red and blue wire from the starter relay and, with the ignition switch off, crank the engine by using an auxiliary starter switch between the S and battery terminals of the starter relay. Insert the correct blade of a clean feeler gauge between the breaker points (Fig. 11 ). Apply a light film of distributor cam lubricant (MIC66-A) to the
will flutter at high engine rpm resulting in an engine miss. To check the spring tension on either the pivot-type or the pivotless breaker points, place the hooked end of the spring tension gauge over the movable breaker point. Pull the gauge at a right angle (90°) to the movable arm until the breaker points just start to open (Fig. 12 ) . If the tension is not within specifications, adjust the spring tension on the pivot-type points or replace the breaker point assembly on the pivotless points.
MORE TENSION
TENSION SPRING
LESS TENSION
Feeler Gouge
FIG. 13 -Adjusting
Breaker Point Spring Tension
FIG. 11 -Adjusting New
Breaker Point Gap cam when new points are installed. Do not use engine oil to lubricate the distributor cam. Set the ignition timing. If a scope or a dwell meter is used to . adjust new points, be sure the points are in proper alignment. Also, set the contact dwell to the low setting. New points must be set to the low dwell as the rubbing block will wear down slightly while seating to the cam. To check and adjust the breaker points with a scope, refer to Ignition System Tests. To check and adjust the breaker points with a dwell meter, refer to Distributor Tests. BREAKER POINT SPRING
TENSION ADJUSTMENT AUTOLITE BREAKER POINT SPRING TENSION ADJUSTMENT Correct breaker point spring tension is essential to proper engine operation and normal breaker point life. If the spring tension is too great, rapid wear of the breaker arm rubbing block will result, causing the breaker point gap to close up and retard the spark timing. If the spring tension is too weak, the breaker arm
ng Breaker Point Spring Tension
rect degree mark should be in line with the timing pointer when the timing light flashes . The other method uses degree marks on the timing pointer (Fig. 15). These also range from 0° or top dead center (TDC) to some value before top dead center (BTDC). When checking the timing, the correct degree mark should be in line with the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley when the timing light flashes . ADJUSTMENT To check and adjust the timing with a power timing light, proceed as follows:
To adjust the spring tension (Fig. 13)
1. Disconnect the primary or distributor lead wire and the condenser lead. 2. Loosen the nut holding the spring in position. Move the spring toward the breaker ann pivot to decrease tension and in the opposite direction to increase tension. 3. Tighten the lock nut, and then check spring tension. Repeat the adjustment until the specified spring tension is obtained. 4. Install the primary or distri~ butor lead wire and the condenser lead. IGNITION TIMING TIMING MARK LOCATIONS There are two methods of showing the timing position. Both methods use the cranksl.taft damper and a timing pointer. One method uses degree marks on the crankshaft pulley (Fig. 14) . These degree marks range from 0° or top dead center (TDC) to some value before top dead center (BTDC). When checking the timing, the cor-
12019-A
FIG. 14 -Typical V-8
Engine Timing Marks 1. Remove the plug wire from the number 1 spark plug. 2. Install the spark plug adaptor on the spark plug. 3. Connect the plug wire to the spark plug adaptor. 4. Clamp the timing light spark plug lead to the spark plug adaptor.
PART 9-1-
GENERAL IGNITION SYSTEM SERVICE
9-9
FIG. 16 -6-Cylinder Engine Ignition Wiring -Typical Removal 1. Disconnect the wires at the spark plugs and at the distributor cap. l. Remove the coil high tension lead.
FIG. 15 -Typical Six
Cylinder Engine Timing Marks 5. Connect the timing light battery leads to the battery terminals. 6. Disconnect the distributor vacuum line. 7. If necessary, clean and mark the timing marks. 8. Operate the engine at the specified idle rpm and point the timing light at the timing pointer. 9. If the timing is incorrect, loosen the distributor hold down bolt and rotate the distributor until the desired initial advance is obtained. 10. Tighten the distributor hold down bolt and check the timing again. 11. Turn off the engine. 12. Remove the timing light and connect the vacuum line.
Cleaning and Inspection Refer to section 3 of this part for the cleaning and inspection procedures.
the correct sockets in the distributor cap. Be sure the wires are forced all the way down into their sockets and that they are held firmly in position. The No. I socket is identified on the cap. Install the wires in a clockwise direction in the firing order (1 -5-3-62-4) starting at the No. 1 socket. 3. Install the coil high tension lead. Push all weatherseals into position.
Installation 1. Connect the wires to the proper spark plugs. l. Insert the ends of the wires in
V-8 ENGINES A typical ignition wiring installation is shown in Fig. 17.
SPARK PLUG WIRE REPLACEMENT
When removing the wires from the spark plugs, grasp, twist and pull the moulded cap only. Do not pull on the wire because the wire connection inside the cap may become separated or the weather seal may be damaged.
200 AND 250 C.I.D. SIX CYLINDER ENGINES The ignition wire installation is shown in Fig. 16.
FIG. 17 -Typical V-8 Engine Ignition Wiring
9-10
GROUP 9-
Removal
t. Disconnect the wires from the spark plugs and distributor cap. :Z. Pull the wires from the brackets on the valve rocker arm covers and remove the wires. 3. Remove the coil high tension lead. Cleaning and Inspection Refer to section 3 of this part for
the cleaning and inspection procedures. Installation 1. Insert each wire in the proper
socket of the distributor cap. Be sure the wires are forced all the way down into their sockets. The No. 1 socket is identified on the cap. Install the wires in a counterclockwise direction in the firing order (1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8) for 302 engines and for 351 engines starting at the No. 1 socket. Cylinders are numbered from front to rear; right bank 1-2-3-4, left bank 5-6-7-8. 2. Remove the brackets from the old spark plug wire set and install them on the new set in the same relative position. Install the wires in the brackets on the valve rocker arm covers. (Fig. 17). Connect the wires
EJ
IGNITION SYSTEM
to the proper spark plugs. Install the coil high tension lead. Be sure the No.7 spark plug wire is positioned in the bracket as shown in Fig. 17. SPARK PLUGS
REMOVAL 1. Remove the wire from each spark plug by grasping, twisting and pulling the moulded cap of the wire only. Do not puB on the wire because the wire coanectlon inside the cap may become sepu~~ted or the weather seal may be damaged. 2. Clean the area around each spark plug port with compressed air, and then remove the spark plugs.
2. Connect the spark plug wires.
RESISTANCE WIRE REPLACEMENT 1. Disconnect the resistance wire (pink) from the connection to the . red and green wire adjacent to the brake master cylinder. 2. Plug in the new resistance wire and route it with the main wiring down to the ignition coil. Tape it to the main wiring. 3. Connect the new resistance wire to the coil battery terminal.
CLEANING AND INSPECI'ION Refer to section 3 of this part for the cleaning and inspection procedures.
ADJUSTMENT Set the spark plug gap to specifications by bending the ground electrode (Fig. 18). INSTALLATION 1. Install the spark plugs: Torque 18 mm. to 15-20 ft. lb. and 14 mm. to 10-15 ft. lb.
FIG. 18- Checking Spark
Plug Gap
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
SPARK PLUGS Examine the firing ends of the spark plugs, noting the type of deposits and the degree of electrode erosion. Refer to Fig. 19 for the various types of spark plug fouling and their causes.
Clean the plugs on a sand blast cleaner, following the manufacturer's instructions. Do not prolong the use of the abrasive blast as it will erode the Insulator and electrodes. Clean the electrode surfaces with a small file (Fig. 21). Dress the electrodes to obtain flat parallel surfaces on both the center and side electrodes. After cleaning, examine the plug carefully for cracked or broken insulators, badly pitted electrodes, and other signs of failure. Replace as required.
DISTRIBUTORS Soak all parts of the distributor assembly (except the condenser, breaker point assembly, lubricating wick, vacuum diaphragm, distributor base oil seal and electrical wiring) in a mild cleaning solvent or mineral spirits. Do not use a harsh cleaning solution. Wipe all parts that can not be immersed in a solvent with a clean dry cloth. After foreign deposits have been loosened by soaking, scrub the parts with a soft bristle brush. Do not use a wire brush, file, or other abrasive objec;t. Dry the parts with compressed air. Examine the bushing surface(s) of the distributor shaft and the bushing(s) for wear. Inspect the distributor cam lobes for scoring and signs of wear. If any lobe is scored or worn, replace the cam assembly.
Inspect the breaker plate assembly for signs of distortion. In addition, on the dual advance distributor, inspect the stationary sub-plate for worn nylon contact buttons. Replace the breaker plate assembly if it is defective. The breaker point assembly and condenser should be replaced whenever the distributor is overhauled. Inspect all electrical wiring for fraying, breaks, etc., and replace any that are not in good condition. Check the distributor base for cracks or other damage. Check the diaphragm housing, bracket, and rod for damage. Check the vacuum line fitting for stripped threads or other damage. Test the vacuum fittings, case, and diaphragm for leakage as explained under Distributor Tests. Replace all defective parts.
PART 9-1- GENERAL IGN ITION SYSTEM SERVICE
IDENTIFIED BY BLACK . DRY FLUFFY CARBON DEPOSITS ON INSULATOR TIPS, EXPOSED SHELL SURFACES AND ELECTRQDES. CAUSED BY TOO COLD A PLUG , WEAK IGNITION , DIRTY AIR CLEANER, DEFECTIVE fUEL PUMP, TOO RICH A FUEL MIXTURE , IMPROPERLY OPERATING HEAT RISER OR EXCESSIVE IDLING. CAN BE CLEANED.
IDENTIFIED BY WET BLACK DEP. OS ITS ON THE INSULA TOR SHELL BORE ELECTRODES CAUSED BY EXCESSIVE OIL ENTERING COM BUS. TION CHAMBER THROUGH WORN RINGS AND PISTONS, EXCESSIVE CLEARANCE BETWEEN VALVE GUIDES AND STEMS, OR WORN OR LOOSE BEARINGS. CAN BE CLEANED IF ENGINE IS NOT REPAIRED, USE A HOTTER PLUG.
IDENTIFIED BY DEPOSIT BUILD-UP CLOSING GAP BETWEEN ELECTRODES . CAUSED BY OIL OR CARBON FOULING. IF DEPOSITS ARE NOT EXCESSIVE, THE PLUG CAN BE CLEANED.
IDENTIFIED BY DARK GRAY , BLACK , YELLOW OR TAN DEPOSITS OR A FUSED GLAZED COATING ON THE INSULATOR TIP . CAUSED BY HIGHLY LEADED GASOLINE. CAN BE CLEANED.
IDENTIFIED BY LIGHT TAN OR GRAY DE POSITS ON THE FIRING TIP CAN tlE CLEANED.
IDENTIFIED BY SEVERELY ERODED OR WORN ELECTRODES. CAUSED BY NORMAL WEAR . SHOULD BE REPLACED.
PRE-IGNITION
IDtNTifiED [)) MELTEC OR SPOTTY DEPOSITS RESEMBLING BUBBLES OR BLISTERS. CAUSED BY SUDDEN ACCE LE RAT ION . CAN BE CLEANED.
FIG. 19 -Spark
IDENTIFIED BY A WHITE UR LIGHT GRAY INSULATOR WITH SMALL BLACK OR GRAY BROWN SPOTS AND WITH BLUISH-BURNT, APPEAR. ANCE OF ELECTRODES, CAUSED BY ENGINE OVERHEATING. WRONG TYPE OF FUEL, LOOSE SPARK PLUGS, TOO HOT A PLUG, LOW FUEL PUMP PRESSURE OR INCOR. RECT IGNITION TIMING. REPLACE THE PLUG.
Plug Inspection
IDENliFIED BY MEL TED ELECTRODES AND PDSSIBL Y BL~TEREDIN SULATOR.
METALLIC DEPOSITS ON INSULA TOR INDICATE ENGINE DAMAGE. CAUSED BY WRONG TYPE OF FUEL . INCORRECT IGNITION TIMING OR ADVANCE, TOO HOT A PLUG. BURNT VALVES OR ENGINE OVERHEATING. REPLACE THE PLUG.
9-11
GROUP 9- IGNITION SYSTEM
9-12 CONDITION
CAUSED IY Contacts should be replaced if the contact surfaces are severely black, extremely dirty or show evidence of excessive oil or grease; such as to cause the voltage drop across the points to exceed 250 Milli Volts, when the points are closed 'lllld the ignition switched on.
EXCESSIVE METAL TRANSFER OR PITTING
Incorrect alignment. Incorrect voltage regulator setting. Radio condenser installed to the distributor side of the coil. Ignition condenser of improper capacity. Extended operation of the engine at speeds other than normal.
FIG. 20- Breaker Point Inspection The breaker point assembly consists of the stationary point bracket assembly, breaker arm and the primary wire terminal. Breaker points should be inspected, cleaned and adjusted as necessary. Breaker points can be cleaned with chloroform and a stiff bristle brush. Replace the breaker point assembly if the contacts are badly burned or excessive metal transfer between the points is evident (Fig. 20). Metal transfer is considered excessive when it equals or exceeds the gap setting.
SECONDARY WIRING Wipe the wire with a damp cloth and check for fraying, breaks or cracked insulation. Inspect the terminals and weather seals for looseness or corrosion. Replace any wires that are not in good condition. COIL Wipe the coil with a damp cloth and check for any cracks or other defects.
Clean the distributor cap with a soft bristle brush and mild cleaning solvent or mineral spirits. Dry the cap with compressed air. Inspect the cap for cracks, burned contacts, permanent carbon tracks or dirt or corrosion in the sockets. Replace the cap if it is defective.
DESCRIPTION The temperature sensitive vacuum control valve is located in the engine coolant outlet. Its function is to regulate the ignition spark control vacuum applied to the distributor at engine idle. OPERATION During extended idle periods, under high ambient temperature conditions with the air conditioner operating, the valve regulates the ignition timing according to engine temperature. As the engine coolant temperature rises above normal the vacuum control valve is progressively opened so applying vacuum to the distributor spark control unit and advancing the ignition timing. This has the effect of: 1. Increasing the engine idle speed. 2. Increasing the air flow through the radiator. 3. Increasing coolant flow through the engine. 4. Increasing thermal efficiency.
FIG. 21- Cleaning Spark
Plug Electrode ROTOR Clean the rotor with a soft bristle brush and mild cleaning solvent or mineral spirits. Dry the rotor with compressed air. Inspect the rotor for cracks or burning. Replace the rotor if it is defective.
DISTRIBUTOR VACUUM CONTROL VALVE DISTRIBUTOR CAP
250 C.I.D. 2V, 302 C.I.D. and 351 C.I.D. engines.
Check that all vacuum lines are correctly fitted and free from leaks. Inspect valve for correct operation as outlined in Part 2 prior to attempting any engine tuning procedures.
DISTRIBUTOR VACUUM ADVANCE CONTROL VALVE The distributor vacuum advance control valve shown in . Fig. 23 is fitted to 250 C.I.D. IV engines equipped with air conditioning and to all
B 3104-A
FIG 22 - Distributor Vaccum Control Valve · DISTRIBUTOR VACUUM CONTROL VALVE TEST (TEMPERATURE SENSING VALVE) 1. Make certain that all vacuum hoses are properly routed and installed. 2. Attach a tachometer to the engine. 3. Bring the engine up to operating temperature and be certain that the choke plate is in the vertical position. Engine must not be overheated. 4. Note the engine idle rpm with transmission in neutral and carburettor throttle in the curb idle positiorr. 5. Disconnect · the vacuum hose from the intake manifold at the tern-
PART 9-1- GENERAL IGNITION SYSTEM SERVICE perature sensing valve and plug or clamp the hose. 6. Note engine idle rpm with the hose disconnected. If no change in idle speed, the valve is acceptable up to this point. If there is a drop in idle speed of 100 rpm or more, the valve should be replaced. 7. Install vacuum line on manifold fitting; then verify that the all season cooling mixture is up to specifications, and that the correct radiator cap is installed. 8. Cover the radiator sufficiently to induce a high temperature condition. 9. Continue to run the engine until the red high temperature light comes on or the temperature indicated on the temperature gauge is at the high end of the band indicating an above normal temperature. If the engine idle speed has by this time increased 100 rpm or more, the temperature sensing valve is satisfactory. If not, it should be replaced. Do not overheat the engine.
9-13
INTAKE MANIFOLD FITTING ACCESSORY OUTLETS
DISTR !SUTOR VACUUM CONTROL VALVE
OR CAPPED
CARBURETOR
DISTRIBUTOR VACUUM UNIT
FIG 23 - Ignition Vacuum Schematic
9-14
PART 9-2
DUAL ADVANCE DISTRIBUTORS BOSCH 6 and 8 Cyl. Models Page 9-14
Section 1 Description and Operation
2 In-Car Adjustments and Repairs Breaker Point and Condenser Replacement
9-14 9-14
3 Removal and Installation
9-15
D
4
Pap 9-15 9-15 9-15 9-15 9-17
__ -- _
Major Repair Operations • Bench Disassembly ~- Bench Assembly
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
The dual advance distributor has two independently operated spark advance systems. A centrifugal advance mechanism is located below the stationary sub-plate assembly and a vacuum operated spark control diaphragm is located on the side ·of the distributor base. As speed increases, the centrifugal weights cause the cam to advance or move ahead with respect to tlie distributor drive shaft. The rate of advance is controlled by calibrated springs. The vacuum advance mechanism has a spring loaded diaphragm which is connected to the breaker plate. The spring loaded side of the diaphragm is airtight and is connected through a vacuum line to the carburettor throttle bore. When the throttle plate opens, the distributor vacuum passage is exposed to manifold vacuum, which causes the diaphragm to move against the tension of the spring. This causes the movable breaker plate to rotate on the stationary sub-plate. The breaker point rubbing block then moves against distributor rotation and advances the spark timing.
EJ
Section Removal Installation
LUBRICATING WICK ADVANCE ADJUSTING BRACKET
WEIGHT
STOP PLATE
FIG. 1-Typical Centrifugal Advance Mechanism
IN CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
BREAKER POINT AND CONDENSER REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL 1. Unfasten spring clips holding distributor cap in place and remove cap. 2. Carefully lift rotor from the cam spindle. 3. Remove contact breaker lead from primary terminal connector.
4. Remove spacing shims (if any) from contact breaker point pin. 5. Remove screw securing contact breaker assembly to breaker plate and lift off contact breaker assembly. Care must be taken to prevent spacing shims from under moving contact from being dislodged and dropped into the distributor body. The contact breaker assembly may be separated
by depressing the moving contact spring blade until the terminal block is clear of the stationary point. INSTALLATION
1. Instal stationary contact and attaching screw. ·2. Instal contact height aligning shims on pivot post and instal contact breaker arm.
PART 9-2-DUAL ADVANCE DISTRIBUTORS 3. Replace contact breaker arm retaining clip on pivot post. 4. Replace contact breaker lead on primary terminal. 5. The breaker points must strike squarely, to align the breaker points carefully bend the stationary point bracket until full face contact is ob· tained. 6. Reset the breaker point gap to specifications. 7. Replace rotor and distributor cap. CONDENSER: REMOVAL 1. Remove distributor cap. 2. Disconnect primary lead from
EJ
REPLACE 1. Position condenser and tighten attaching screw. 2. Slide terminal block into distributor body and connect primary lead to coil terminal. 3. Connect breaker point lead to terminal block. 4. Replace distributor cap.
Breaker Point Gap Adjustment A scope, a dwell meter, or a feeler gauge may be used to check the gap of. new breaker points. A scope or dwell meter can be used to check the gap of used points. Due to the roughness of used points, it is not advisable to use a feeler gauge to check the gap. Adjustment of the cam angle or contact gap is made by loosening the contact plate securing screw and inserting the blade of a screwdriver between the two dowel pins on the base plate and the slot in the contact plate. Turn screwdriver clockwise to decrease cam angle and anti-clockwise to increase cam angle.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
REMOVAL 1. Disconnect the primary wire at the coil and remove the distributor cap. 2. Disconnect the vacuum line at the distributor. 3. Scribe a mark on the distributor body, indicating the position of the rotor, and scribe another mark on the body and engine block, indicating the position of the body in the block. These lines will be used as guides when installing the distributor in the correctly timed engine. 4. Remove the retaining bolt and lock washer and lift the distributor out of the block.
EJ
coil terminal. 3. Disconnect breaker point lead from distributor primary terminal, and slide terminal block from distributor body. 4. Remove condenser attaching screw and lift out condenser and wire assembly.
9-15
Do not rotate the cn~~kshaft wblle the distributor Is removed, or It wiD be necessary to dme the engine.
INSTALLATION 1. If the crankshaft has not been rotated while the distributor was removed, position the distributor in the block with the rotor aligned with the mark previously scribed on the distributor body. Install the distributor retaining screw. 2. If the crankshaft has been rotated while the distributor was removed, rotate the crankshaft until the No. 1 piston is on TDC after the
compression stroke. Position the distributor in the block with the rotor at the No. l firing position. Make sure the oU pump Intermediate drlve shaft Is properly seated in the oU pump. Install, but do not tighten, the distributor retaining bolt. Rotate the distributor body clockwise until the breaker points are just starting to open. Tighten the retaining bolt. 3. Connect the distributor primary wire and install the distributor cap. 4. Start the engine and adjust the ignition timing to specifications with a timing light. Connect the distributor vacuum line, and check the advance with the timing light when the eng;.1e is accelerated.
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS
To perform the operations in this section, it will be necessary to remove the distributor from the engine and place it in a vice. DISASSEMBLY 1. Whileholdingthedistributorcap (15) in place unfasten the spring clips (18) then remove the cap. 2. Carefully remove the rotor (17) from the cam spindle. 3. Remove the contact breaker cable from the primary terminal flat pin connector. 4. Remove screw and washers (2) and lift out the contact set. 5. Remove screw and washer assemblies (22) and lift out the con-
denser and primary terminal block. 6. Remove spring clip (23) and remove the vacuum control unit. 7. Remove screws and washers (4) and lift out the contact breaker plate. 8. Remove the drive gear securing roll pin (20) and remove tlu: drive gear (21). On 8 cylinder distributors remove the roll pin and drive shaft collar. 9. Extract the distributor shaft (13) from the housing (19) by applying light pressure at the drive gear end. 10. Mark the advance weights, springs and cam posts to ensure correct reassembly. If required remove the springs (9 and 10). 11. To remove circlip (6) and cam
(8) from shaft (13) place the shaft upright in a soft jaw vice so that the vice jaws support the driving plate. Lever the cam and circlip off the drive shaft with two screw-drivers inserted between the cam and driving plate.
NOTE: Do not remove the lubrication felt (5) from the cam prior to operation 11 as it will prevent the circlip (6) from springing out and becoming lost. 12. Remove the centrifugal advance weights (11) and fibre washers. 13. Remove lubrication felt (5), circlip (6) and washer (7) from the distributor cam.
9-16 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
GROUP 9-
Contact Set Screw & Washer Conta_ct Set to Breaker Plate Contact Breaker Plate Screw & Washer Breaker Plate to Dist Housing Lubrication Felt Circlip Cam Assy to Dist. Shaft Washer Cam Assy to Dist. Shaft Cam Assy Advance Weight Secondary Spring.
IGNITION SYSTEM 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22
Advance Weight Primary Spring Centrifugal Advance Weights Fibre Washer Weights to Driving Plate Distributor Shaft & Driving Plate Assy Spacer Shim. Distributor Cap Carbon Brush and Spring Rotor Spring Clip Cap to Housing Distributor Housing Roll Pin Gear to Shaft Helical Drive Gear Cheese Head Screw and Washer Condenser and Vacuum Control to Dist. Housing 23 Spring Clip Vacuum unit Rod 24 Vacuum Control Unit
3
/ 0-<....-4 i--16
·--5 c---6
23-~
0--7
22
.....-10
25 Condenser with Terminal and Primary Connection Assy 26 Breaker Plate Earth Lead and Nut.
14-Q
21
FIG. 2 - Distributor Assembly (6 cyl. shown)
PART 9-2-DUAL ADVANCE DISTRIBUTORS Checking Dismantled Distributor Components Check bearing surfaces for wear and replace worn parts. Remember when checking the shaft bushing that the lower bearing for the shaft is in the engine block. New sintered bushings should be soaked in oil for an hour before installation. Use the correct mandrel for pressing out and replacing bushes. Test condenser by means of a suitable tester. The bracket of the condenser must make good contact with the distributor housing. Contact points must be secure and well aligned; adjust height with shims. Displaced contact points should be aligned by means of a setting tool. The rubbing block of the contact breaker lever should not be worn. Contact spring tension must be tested with a spring balance. Failure to comply with any one of the above requirements makes it necessary to replace the contact set. Distorted or stretched advance
9-17
springs must be replaced with the correct springs as the springs determine the advance curve which is important to optimum engine performance. The vacuum control unit must be tested for leaks and, in the event of a leak being found, the complete unit must be replaced.
Shaft End Float Shaft end float must be adjusted to specifications by placing or removing shims from between the drive gear and the housing on 6 cylinder distributors or between the drive shaft collar and housing on 8 cylinder distributors.
Reassembly To assemble distributor reverse disassembly procedure. Important: Cleanliness is essential, oil and grease must be kept away from the electrical contact surfaces and insulating parts. The earth lead from the contact breaker plate must be connected with the housing by means of the screw which secures the vacuum advance unit. The cam to driveshaft circlip can be installed using a piece of 0.25 steel tube to press the circlip over the shaft.
Testing Advance Curve The advance curve must be checked to specifications on an approved distributor test bench. Centrifugal Advance Adjustment is made by bending the spring bracket at the cam to increase or decrease spring tension. A slot in the base plate gives access to the spring brackets. Vacuum Advance The vacuum advance curve can be tested by applying a depression to the vacuum unit and reading the degrees of advance on the scale. The vacuum unit is not adjustable and must be replaced if advance is not to specification.
FIG. 4- 8 CYL ANTI-CLOCKWISE ROTATION
FIG. 3 - 6 Cylinder Bosch Distributor -Typical
FIG. 5-6 CYL. CLOCKWISE ROTATION
9-18
PART 9-3
DUAL ADVANCE DISTRIBUTORS
MOTORCRAFT
Section l
Page
Description and Operation ...... ... ... .. ....
9-18
2 In-Car Adjustments and Repairs ... ... ...... 9-·19 Vacuum Diaphragm Replacement ...... ...... ...... 9-·19 Cam and Centrifugal Advance Mechanism
D
Section Replacement ...... .. .... ...... ...... ...... 3 Removal and Installation .. .... ...... .... .. 4 Major Repair Operations ...... ..... .. ...... Bench Disassembly ...... ...... ..... . .. .. .. Bf.nch Assembly ...... ...... ...... ... .. ......
...... ...... .. .... ..... . ..... .
Pare ..... . 9-19 ..... . 9-21 ..... . 9-21
9·21 ...... 9-22
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
The dual advance distributor has two independently operated spark advance systems. A centrifugal advance mechanism (Fig. 1) is located below the stationary sub-plate assembly, and a vacuum operated spark control diaphragm is located on the side of the distributor base (Fig. 2). As speed increases, the centrifugal weights cause the cam to advance or move ahead with respect to the distributor drive shaft. The rate of advance is controlled by calibrated springs. The vacuum advance mechanism
has a spring-loaded diaphragm which is connected to the breaker plate. The spring-loaded side of the diaphragm is airtight and is connected through a vacuum line to the carburettor throttle bore. When the throttle plates open, the distributor vacuum passage is exposed to manifold vacuum, which causes the diaphragm to move against the tension of the spring. This action causes the movable breaker plate to pivot on the stationary sub-plate. The breaker point rubbing block, which is positioned on the opposite side of the LUBRICATING WICK
ADVANCE ADJUSTING BRACKFT
CAM PLATE CONTROL SLOT
FIG. 1 -
Typical Centrifugal Advance Mechanism
cam from the pivot pin, then moves. against distributor rotation and advances the spark timing. As the movable breaker plate is rotated from retard position to full advance position, the dwell decreases slightly. This is because the breaker point rubbing block and the cam rotate on different axes. Note: A dual diaphragm advance/ retard unit is fitted to some engines, however the retard side of the unit has been plugged and the vacuum side operates in the same manner as the single diaphragm unit.
PART 9-3-DUAL ADVANCE DISTRIBUTORS
9-19
COIL HIGH TENSION WIRE TERMII~AL
FIG. 2 - Vacuum Advance Mechanism
EJ
IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
BREAKER POINT AND CONDENSER REPLACEMENT The replacement procedures are covered in page 9-7.
BREAKER PLATE AND SUB-PLATE REPLACEMENT Refer to Figs. 3 and 4 for the proper location of parts.
VACUUM DIAPHRAGM REPLACEMENT REMOVAL 1. Remove the distributor cap and the rotor. 2. Remove the vacuum line from the diaphragm fitting. 3. Remove the spring clip that secures the diaphragm link to the movable breaker plate. 4. Remove the diaphragm retaining screws and slide the diaphragm out of the distributor. INSTALLATION 1. Slide the diaphragm into the opening in the distributor and place the link in its position. 2. Install the spring clip that secures the diaphragm link to the movable breaker plate and the diaphragm retaining screws. 3. Install the vacuum line on the diaphragm fitting. 4. Install the rotor and the distributor cap.
REMOVAL 1. Remove the distributor cap and the rotor. 2. Remove the breaker point assembly, the condenser, and the vacuum diaphragm. 3. Working from the inside of the distributor, pull the primary wire through the opening in the distributor. 4. Remove the.spring clip, the flat washer, and the spring washer securing the breaker plate to the sub-plate. 5. Remove the sub-plate retaining screws and lift both plates out of the distributor. INSTALLATION 1. Place the breaker plate in position on the sub-plate. 2. Install the spring washer, the flat washer, and the spring clip that secures the breaker plate to the sub-plate. 3. Install the sub-plate hold down screws (the ground wire should be under the sub-plate hold down screw
near the primary wire opening in the distributor). 4. Working from the inside of the distributor, push the primary wire through the opening in the distributor. 5. Install the breaker point assembly, the condenser and the vacuum diaphragm. 6. Install the rotor and the distributor cap. CAM AND CENTRIFUGAL ADVANCE MECHANISM REPLACEMENT REMOVAL 1. Remove the distributor cap and the rotor. 2. Working from the inside of the distributor, pull the primary wire through the opening in the distributor. • 3. Remove the sub-plate retaining screws and lift the plate assembly out of the distributor. 4. Mark one of the distrjbutor weight springs and its brackets. Also mark one of the weights and its pivot pin. 5. Carefully unhook and remove the weight springs.
GROUP 9-IGNITION SYSTEM
9-20 VACUUM DIAPHRAGM
GROUND WIRE
LINK SPRING CLIP
B227S· B
BREAKER POINT ASSEMBLY
FIG. 3 - Breaker Plate Installed- Pivotless Points DISTRIBUTOR HOUSING
SU3-PLATE
6. Lift the lubricating wick from the cam assembly. Remove the cam . assembly retainer and lift the cam assembly off the distributor shaft. Remove the thrust washer. 7. Remove the weight retainers and lift the weights out of the distributor. INSTALLATION 1. Fill the grooves in the weight pivot pins with distributor cam lubricant (MIC66-A). 2. Position the weights in the distributor (the marked weight is placed on the marked pivot pin) and install the weight retainers. 3. Place the thrust washer on the shaft. 4. Fill the grooves in the upper portion of the distributor shaft with distributor cam lubricant (MIC66-A). 5. Install the cam assembly. Be sure that the marked spring bracket on the cam assembly is near the marked spring bracket on the stop plate. If a new cam is being installed, make sure that the cam is installed with the hypalon covered stop in the correct cam plate control slot. This can be done by measuring the length of the slot used on the old cam and by using the corresponding slot on the new cam. Some of the cams will have the size of the slot in degrees stamped near the slot. H the wrong slot is used, an incorrect maximum advance will be obtained. Place a light film of distributor cam lubricant on the distributor cam lobes. Install the retainer and the wick. Saturate the wick with SAE lOW engine oil. 6. Install the weight springs. Be sure that the marked spring is attached to the marked spring brackets. 7. Install the sub-plate assembly. 8. Working from the inside of the distributor, push the primary wire through the opening in the distributor. 9. Install the rotor and the distributor cap. ADJUSTMENTS Refer to page 9-7 for the adjust· ment procedures.
LINK 3PRING CLIP
82274-B
FIG. 4 - Breaker Plate Installed- Pivot-Type Points
PART 9-3- DUAL ADVANCE DISTRIBUTORS
EJ
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
REMOVAL 1. Disconnect the primary wire at the coil. Disconnect the vacuum advance line at the distributor. Remove the distributor cap. 2. Scribe a mark on the distributor body and engine block indicating the position of the body in the block, and scribe another mark on the distributor body indicating the position of the rotor. These marks can be used as guides when installing the distributor in a correctly timed engine. 3. Remove the distributor hold down bolt and clamp. Lift the distributor out of the block. Do not rotate the crankshaft while the diStributor is removed, or it will be necessary to time the engine.
EJ
Install, but do not tighten, the retaining clamp and bolt. Rotate the distributor body counterclockwise until the breaker points are just starting to open. Tighten the clamp. 2. If the crankshaft has not been rotated, position the distributor in the block with the rotor aligned with the mark previously scribed on the distributor body, and the marks on the distributor body and engine block in alignment. Install the retaining clamp. 3. Install the distributor cap. 4. Connect the primary wire to the coil. 5. Check the ignition timing with a timing light and adjust to specifications if necessary. Connect the vacuum line, and check the advance with the timing light when the engine is accelerated.
INSTALLATION 1. If the crankshaft was rotated while the distributor was removed from the engine, it will be necessary to time the engine. Rotate the crankshaft until No. 1 piston is on TDC after the compression stroke. Align the TDC mark on the timing pointer with the timing pin on the crankshaft damper. Position the distributor in the block with the rotor at the No. 1 firing position. Make sure the oil pump intermediate shaft properly engages the distributor shaft. It may be necessary to crank the engine with the starter, after the distributor drive gear is partially engaged, in order to engage the oil pump intermediate shaft.
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS
To perform the operations in this section, it will be necessary to remove the distributor from the engine and place it in a vice. BENCH DISASSEMBLY The distributor assembly is shown in Fi~;. 6. 1. Remove the rotor. 2. Disconnect the primary and the condenser wires from the breaker point assembly. 3. Remove the breaker point assembly and condenser retaining screws. Lift the breaker point assembly and condenser out of the distnbutor. . . 4. Remove the spnng chp that Secures the diaphragm link tll the
FIG. 5- Gear Pin Removal or
Installation
PIN-12145 -
HOUSING-12130 SPRING-12191 o• 12192 EG T ~ W I H -12188
I
WEIGHT RETAINER-379\023
lf.IJ -,.._
' •'
""
'
;'
\
DRIVE GEAR-12390
~ •
1•
' '
~ \
UPPER BUSHING , . 12120 '
~
COLLAR
----e·.
CLAMP- 12144
CAM ASSEMBLY-12210~ RETAINER-12177 b... STATIONARY SUB-PLATE-12151'-....._
moveable breaker plate. 5. Remove the diaphragm retaining screws and slide the diaphragm out of the distributor. 6. Working from the inside of the distributor, pull the primary wire through the opening in the distributor. 7. Remove the spring clip, the flat washer, and the spring washer securing the breaker plate to the sub-plate.
-12175
.,
~SPRING-12191 o• 12192
, 1
<~ CLAMP12144
.
~DIAPHRAGM ASSEMBLy_ 12370
STOP
~
~
PINR-ET12U1R4N5 SPRING
GASKET
r
'"
0,~
CALIBRATING WASHERS
VACUUM CONNECTION
PRIMARY WIRE-1221~
FIG. 6- Distributor Assembly
9-22
GROUP 9- IGNITION SYSTEM
8. Remove the sub-plate retaining screws and lift both plates out of the distributor. 9. Mark one of the distributor weight springs and its brackets. Also mark one of the weights and its pivot pin. 10. Carefully unhook and remove ihe weight springs. 11. Lift the lubricating wick from the cam assembly. Remove the cam assembly retainer and lift the cam assembly off the distributor shaft. Remove the thrust washer. 12. Remove the weight retainers and lift the weights out of the distributor. 13. Remove the distributor cap clamps. 14. If the gear and shaft are to be used again, mark the gear and the shaft so that the pin holes can be easily aligned for assembly. Remove the gear roll pin (Fig. 5), and then remove the gear (Fig. 7). 15. Remove the shaft collar roll pin (Fig. 8). 16. Invert the distributor and place it on a support plate in a position that will allow the distributor shaft to clear the support plate and press the shaft out of the collar and the distributor housing (Fig. 9).
BENCH ASSEMBLY ORIGINAL SHAFT AND GEAR 1. Oil the new upper bushing, and position it on the bushing replacer
Preu ltom
FIG. 9 -Shaft Removal tool. Install the bushing (Fig. 12). When the tool bottoms against the distributor base, the bushing will be installed to the correct depth. 2. Burnish the bushing to the proper size (Fig. 13). 3. Invert the distributor and install and burnish the lower bushing in a similar manner. 4. Oil the shaft and slide it into the distributor body.
FIG. 7- Gear Removal 17. Refer to Figs. 10 and 11 and remove the distributor shaft upper and lower bushings.
FIG. 8 -Collar Pin Removal or Installation
FIG. 10- Lower Bushing
Removal
5. Place the collar in position on the shaft and align the holes in the collar and the shaft, then install a new pin. Install the distributor cap clamps. 6. Check the shaft end play with a feeler gauge placed between the collar and the base ofthe distributor. If the end play is not within specifications, replace the shaft and gear. 7. Attach the distributor shaft supporting tool to the distributor. Tighten the backing screw in the tool enough to remove all shaft end play. 8. Install the assembly in a press. Press the gear on the shaft (Fig. 14), using the marks made on the gear and shaft as guides to align the pin holes. 9. Remove the distributor from the press. Install the gear retaining pin (Fig. 5). 10. Position the distributor in a vice. Fill the grooves in the weight pivot pins with a distributor cam lubricant. 11. Position the weights in the distributor (the marked weight is placed on the marked pivot pin) and install the weight retainers. 12. Place the thrust washer on the shaft. 13. Fill the grooves in the upper portion of the distributor shaft with distributor cam lubricant. 14. Install the cam assembly. Be sure that the marked spring bracket on the cam assembly is near the marked spring bracket on the stop plate. If a new cam is being installed, make sure that the cam is installed with the hypalon covered stop in the correct cam plate control slot. This can be done by measuring the length of the slot used on the old cam and by using the corresponding slot on the new cam. Some of the cams will have the size of the slot in degrees stamped near the slot. If the wrong slot is used, an incorrect maximum advance will be obtained. Place a light film of distributor cam lubricant on the distributor cam lobes. Install the retainer and the wick. Saturate the wick with SAE lOW engine oil. 15. Install the weight springs. Be sure that the marked $pring is attached to the marked spring brackets. 16. Place the breaker plate in position on the sub-plate. 17. Install the spring washer, the flat washer, and the spring clip that secures the breaker plate to the subplate.
PART 9-3-DUAL ADVANCE DISTRIBUTORS
9-23
and install the retaining screws. Be sure to place the ground wire under the breaker point assembly screw farthest from the breaker point contacts. Align and adjust the breaker point assembly by following the procedure on page 9·7. 23. Connect the primary and condenser leads to the breaker point assembly. 24. Install the rotor and the distributor cap. 25. Check and adjust (if necessary) the centrifugal and vacuum advance (Refer to page 9-6).
FIG. 14- Original Shaft and
Gear Installation
FIG. 11 -Upper Bushing
Removal
BUSHING
FIG. 13- Burnishing Bushing
the shaft to the specified distance from the bottom face of the gear to the bottom face of the distributor mounting flange (Fig. 15). Drill a !-inch hole through the shaft using the hole in the gear as a pilot. !l. Remove the distributor from
NEW SHAFT AND GEAR
FIG. 12- Upper Bushing
Installation 18. Install the sub-plate hold down screws (the ground wire should be under the sub-plate hold down screw near the primary wire opening in the distributor). 19. Working from the inside of the distributor, push the primary wire through the opening in distributor. 20. Slide the diaphragm into the opening in the distributor and place the link in its position. 21. Install the spring clip that secures the diaphragm link to the moveable breaker plate. _ 22. Place the breaker point assembly and the condenser in position
The shaft and gear are replaced as an assembly. One part should not be replaced without replacing the other. Refer to Fig. 6 for the correct location of the parts. 1. Follow steps 1, 2, 3, and 4 under Bench Assembly Original Shaft and Gear. 2. Attach the distributor shaft supporting tool to the distributor and install the assembly in a vice. Insert a 0. 024-inch feeler gauge between the backing screw and the shaft. Tighten the backing screw on the tool enough to remove all shaft end play. Remove the feeler gauge and allow the shaft to rest on the backing screw. Slide the collar on the shaft. While holding the collar in place against the distributor base (Fig. 15), drill a !-inch hole through the shaft using the access opening in the collar as a pilot. 3. Position the gear on the end of the shaft. Install the assembly in a press. 4. With the backing screw on the support tool tightened enough to remove all end play, press the gear on
DRILL~
INCH
HOLE THROUGH SHAFT
FIG. 15- New Shaft and Gear
Installation the press and remove the support tool. Install the collar retaining pin (Fig. 8) and the gear retaining pin (Fig. 5). 6. Complete the assembly by¢following steps 9 to 25 under Installing Original Shaft ancf'Gkr.
>,
9-24
PART 9-4
SPECIFICATIONS
GENERAL
200 & 260
302
351-2V AUTO
351-2V MANUAL 351-4V MAN & AUTO
Breaker Arm Spring Tension (Ounces) Contact Spacing (Inches) Dwell Angle at Idle Speed
18-22 012-.016 36°-40°
17-22 .013-.018 26°·30°
17-22 .013-.018 26°-30°
17-21 .021 24°-29°
CONDENSER Capacity (Micro Farads) Minimum Leakage (Meg. ohms) Maximum Series Leakage (ohms)
0.15-0.20 5 1
0.15-0.20 5 1
0.15-0.20 5 1
0.21-0.25 10 1
COIL Primary Resistance (ohms) @ 75 °F. Secondary Resistance (ohms) @ 75°F. Amperage Draw-Engine Stopped -Engine Idling Primary Circuit Resistor @ 75 °F.
1.40-1.54 8000-8800 4.5 2.5 1.30-1.40
1.40 -1.54 8000-8800 4.5 2.5 1.30-1 .40
1.40-1.54 8000-8800 4.5 2.5 1.30-1.40
1.40-1.54 7500-8700 4.5 2.5 1.30-1.40
SPARK PLUGS Type ( Motorcraft) Size Gap (Inches) Torque (Ft Lbs.)
AF32 BF42 14MM 18MM 0.032-0.036 0.032-0.036 15-20 10-15
AF32 14MM 0.032-0.036 10-15
AF32 14MM 0.032-0.036 10-15
IGNITION TIMING INITIAL ADVANCE Manual and Automatic Transmission °8TDC for altitude operation and/or to obtain optimum engine performance and fuel economy the initial ignition timing may be advanced 30 over the normal setting. No further improvement will be achieved by advancing beyond this point.
6
DISTRIBUTOR DIMENSIONS Shaft end play (inches) Distributor removed 0.022-0.033 Distance from bottom of mounting flange to bottom 2.510-2.515 of gear (inches)
6
6
6
0.024-0.035 4.031-4.038
0.024-0.035 4.031-4.038
0.024-0.035 4.031 -4.038
Note: Some 351 C.I.D. engines are fitted with ARF 42 spark plugs as original equipment. The service replacement is AF32.
PART 9-4 SPECIFICATIONS ADVANCE CHARACTERISTICS Note:
The advance characteristics given apply to the distributor with the indicated nwmber only. The distributor number is stamped on the distributor housing. For all distributors set test stand to 0° at 250 R.P.M. and 0 inches of mercury.
ARD1DE·12100-B 200 C.I.D. H.C. BLUE DOT CENTRIFUGAL VACUUM Distributor r.p.m. Advance 0 in. Hg Advance 500 1-4 0-1 5 800 6-9 7 1.5-6 1000 9-12 8 3.5-8 1500 12-14 10 7-9 2000 14-16 Maximum advance 16 9
0
ARD1DE-12100-CA 200 C.I.D. L.C. BLACK DOT CENTRIFUGAL VACUUM Distributor r.p.m. Advance 0 in. Hg Advance 0 500 0-1 700 1-.35 5 0-1 1000 5.25-8.75 7 1.5-5.5 1500 12.25-14.5 10 7.5-11 1700 14-16 12 9-11 Maximum advance 16 11 ARD1DE-12100-DA 200 C.I.D. L.L.C. (EXPORT ONLY) YELLOW DOT CENTRIFUGAL VACUUM Distributor r.p.m. Advance 0 in. Hg Advance 0 600 0-.5 800 1-4 5 0 1200 8.5-11.5 7 0-1 1500 14-17 10 1-4 1800 16-18 15 5-7.75 2100 17-19 20 8.75-11 .25 Maximum advance 19 11.25 ARD10E 12100-C 250 C.I.D. H.C. RED DOT CENTRIFUGAL VACUUM Distributor r.p.m. Advance 0 in. Hg Advance 500 0-2 800 3.5-5.5 0-1 5 1000 6-8 7 1.5-6 1500 9.5-11.5 3.5-8 8 2000 13-15 10 7-9 2300 15-17 Maximum advance 17 9 ARD10E 12100-EA 250 C.I.C. L.C. WHITE DOT CENTRIFUGAL VACUUM Distributor r.p.m. Advance 0 Advance in. Hg 600 0 800 0-1.5 6 0 1200 4-6 0-3 8 1900 12-14 10 3-6 9-11 2350 15-17 15 Maximum advance 17 11
0
0
9-25
ARD10E-12100-D 250 C.I.D. 2V H.C. GREEN DOT CENTRIFUGAL VACUUM Distributor r.p.m. Advance 0 in. Hg Advance 500 0 600 0-2 4-6 800 5 0 5-7 1000 8 0-2.75 1500 7.5-9.5 12 4-6.5 2300 11.5-13.5 17 8.5-11 Maximum advance 13.5 11
0
ARD1AE-12100-AB 302 C.I.D. H.C. RED DOT CENTRIFUGAL VACUUM Distributor r.p.m. Advance 0 in. Hg Advance 0 350 0 500 0-2.25 750 4-6.5 0-3.25 5 1000 7.5-9.5 10 6.75-11.25 1500 10.25-12.25 15 11 -13 2000 12.75-14.75 20 11-13 2400 15-17 25 11-13 Maximum advance 17 13 ARD1AE-12100-EA 351 C.I.D. 2V AUTO YELLOW DOT CENTRIFUGAL VACUUM Distributor r.p.m. Advance 0 in. Hg Advance 0 350 0 500 0-1 .75 750 3.25-5.25 5 0-3 1000 7-9 10 6.25-9.75 1500 9.5-11.5 15 8.5-10.5 2000 11.75-13.75 20 8.5-10.5 2150 12.5-14.5 Maximum advance 14.5 10.5 DOOF-12127-T 351 C.I.D. 2V MANUAL CENTRIFUGAL VACUUM Distributor r.p.m. Advance 0 in. Hg Advance 0 350 0-0.5 500 0-1 .5 5 0-2 750 2-4 10 5-8 4.5-6.5 1000 15 9-12 1500 7.75-10 10-12.5 20 2000 10.0-12.5 25 10-12.5 2300 11.5-14 Maximum advance 14 12.5 DOOF-12127-G 351 C.I.D. 4V AUTO CENTRIFUGAL VACUUM Distributor r.p.m. Advance 0 in. Hg Advance 0 350 0-0.5 500 0-0.5 750 3-5 0-1 5 1000 5.5-7.5 10 1.25-4.5 1500 6.75-9 15 5.5-8.5 2000 7.75-10.25 20 8-10.5 8.5-12.0 25 8-10.5 2300 Maximum advance 12 10.5 DOOF-12127-V 351 C.I.D. 4V MANUAL CENTRIFUGAL VACUUM Distributor r.p.m. Advance 0 in. Hg Advance 0 350 0-0.5 500 0-0.5 0-1 5 750 0.75-2.75 1-4.5 10 1000 3.75-5.75 15 5.5-8.5 1500 8.5-10.75 20 8-10.5 2000 10.25-12.75 25 8-10.5 2300 11.5-14.0 Maximum advance 14 10.5
REFERENCE TO SERVICE INFORMATION AND NOTES Date
Letter No.
Pace
Brief Detail
FALCON FAIRLANE w~:~~~~P
FUEL SYSTEM
GROUP 10
PAGE PART 10-1-
General Fuel System Service
10-2
PART 10-2-
Stromberg BV-2 Carburettor
10-11
PART 10-3-
Stromberg WW Series Carburettor
10-20
PART 10-4-
Ford Motorcraft Model 2100 Carburettor
10-31
PART 10-5-
Motorcraft Model 4300 Carburettor
10-45
PART 10-6-
Fuel Pump and Fuel Filter
10-61
PART 10-7-
Air Cleaner
10-64
PART 10-8-
Fuel Tank and Lines
10-67
PART 10-9-
Specifications
10-71
10-2
PART
10·1
GENERAL FUEL SYSTEM SERVICE
Section Page ......10-2 1 D~agnos~s and Testing ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... Diagnosis ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ......10-2 Fuel Tank and Lines Diagnosis Guide ...... ......10-3 Carburettor Diagnosis Guide ..............................10-3 Tests ................., ..................................................... .10-5 Fuel Pump Tests ........................ ............................. .10-5 Carburettor Tests ........................ ...... ..................10-6
This part covers general fuel system diagnosis, tests, adjustment and repair procedures. In addition, cleaning and inspection procedures are covered. For fuel system component removal, disassembly, assembly, installation, repair procedures, adjustments and specifications, refer to the pertinent part of this group. The carburettor identification is stamped on the carburettor upper body or float bowl for Stromberg
D
Section Page 2 Common Adjustments and Repairs ............ 10-7 Throttle Linkage Adjustments ........................10-7 Accelerator Pedal Idle Height Adjustment ...... 10-7 Throttle Linkage Repair ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ......1 0- 7 3 Cleaning and Inspection .............................. ............ 10-13 Carburettors ............................................................10-13 Fuel Pump .................. ........................ ................. .I0-13 Air Cleaner ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ......1 0-13
carburettors and on a tag attached to the upper body on Motorcraft carburettors. To procure replacement parts, it is necessary to know the part number prefix and suffix and, in some instances, the design change code Always refer to the Master Parts Catalogue for parts usage and interchangeability before replacing a carburettor or a component part for a carburettor.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS FUEL TANK, LINES AND FILTER Water and dirt that accumulate in the fuel tank can cause a restricted fuel line or filter and malfunction of fuel pump, or carburettor. Condensation, which is the greatest source of water entering the fuel tank, is formed by moisture in the air when it strikes the cold interior walls of the fuel tank.
If the accumulation of sediment in the filter is excessive, the fuel tank should be removed and flushed, and the line from the fuel pump to the tank should be blown out. Leakage in the fuel inlet line can cause low vacuum, and volume conditions, and loss of fuel. A restricted fuel tank vent can cause low fuel pump pressure and volume and may, in some instances, result in collapsed inlet hoses or a collapsed fuel tank.
FUEL PUMP Incorrect fuel pump pressure and low volume (ftow rate) are the two most likely fuel pump troubles that will affect engine performance. Low pressure will cause a lean mixture and fuel starvation at high speeds and excessive pressure will cause high fuel consumption and carburettor flooding. Low volume will cause fuel starvation at high speeds.
PART 10-1- GENERAL FUEL SYSTEM SERVICE
10-3
FUEL PUMP, TANK AND LINES DIAGNOSIS GUIDE
LOW FUEL PUMP PRESSURE OR VOLUME
Diaphragm stretched or leaking. Fuel pump diaphragm spring is weak. Rocker arm or eccentric worn or undersize. Excessive clearance between rocker arm and fuel pump link. Fittings loose or cracked.
Fuel filter clogged (low volume). Fuel line cracked or broken. Fuel pump valves improperly seating. Dirt in fuel tank and/ or lines. Fuel tank vent restricted. Diaphragm ruptured. Main body retaining screws loose.
HIGH FUEL PUMP PRESSURE OR VOLUME
Diaphragm spring too strong or improper spring. Diaphragm surface too tight (over-tensioned).
Pump link has no free play (frozen). Diaphragm vent opening plugged or omitted.
LOW FUEL PUMP VACUUM
Diaphragm stretched or leaking. Fuel pump springs weak. Fuel pump valves improperly seatin g. Diaphragm ruptured.
Rocker arm or eccentric worn. Excessive clearance between rocker arm and fuel pump link. Main body retaining screws loose.
LOW FUEL PUMP VOLUME WITH NORMAL PRESSURE
Fuel filter clogged. Fuel pump to carburettor inlet line obstructed, crimped or leaks.
Restriction in fuel supply line to fuel pump.
Threads on fittings stripped. Body cracked.
FUEL PUMP LEAKS FUEL
Diaphragm defective. Fittings loose.
FUEL PUMP LEAKS OIL
Fuel pump retaining bolts loose. Mounting gasket defective.
Diaphragm pull rod oil seal ruplured or improperly installed.
Rocker arm or eccentric worn. Mounting bolts loose. Rocker arm springs weak or broken.
Rocker arm bumper pad defective.
FUEL PUMP NOISI
Fuel tank vent restricted.
FUEL TANK AND/OR INLET LIN! HOSIS COLLAPSED
ments and improper fuel level are the major sources of carburettor
Dirt accumulation in the fuel and air passages, improper idle adjust-
troubles.
CARIURmOR DIAGNOSIS GUIDI
FLOODING OR UAKING CARBURETOR
HARD STARnNG
Cracked carburettor body. Defective main body and for fuel bowl gasket. High fuel level or ftoat setting. Fuel inlet needle not seating properly or worn needle and/ or seat.
Improper starting procedure causing a flooded engine. Improper carburettor fuel level. Improper idle adjustments. Sticking or incorrectly seating fuel inlet needle. Incorrect fuel pump pressure.
Ruptured phragm. Excessive Defective Ruptured
accelerating pump diafuel pump pressure. power valve gasket, power valve diaphragm.
Improper carburettor gasket and / or spacer combination. Incorrect setting of choke thermostatic spring housing. Choke linkage or plate binding. Binding qr broken manual choke linkage. Restrictions or air leaks in the choke vacuum or hot air passages. Dirty air cleaner element.
1()..4
GROUP 10- FUEL SYSTEM
CARIUREnOR DIAGNOSIS GUIDE-continued
STAUING
ENGINE HOT OR COLD Incorrect idle fuel mixture. Engine idle speed too slow (fast or cold idle adjustments). Dirt, water or ice in fuel filter. Positive crankcase ventilation system malfunctioning. Fuel lines restricted or leaking air. Fuel tank vent restricted. Leaking intake manifold or carburettor gaskets Carburenor icing (cold, wet or humid weather). Incorrect throttle linkage adjust-
ROUGH IDU Positive crankcase ventilation system malfunctioning or restricted. Idle air bleeds restricted. Idle air or fuel passages restricted. Idle discharge holes restricted. Idle discharge holes not in proper relation to throttle plate(s). Excessive dirt in air cleaner. High or low fuel level or float setting. Fuel inlet needle not seating properly, or worn needle or seat. Power valve leaking. Restricted air bleeds.
ment to carburettor. Clogged air bleeds or idle passages. Defective fuel pump.
ENGINE HOT ONLY Coolant control thermostat defective. Excessive looseness of throttle shaft in bore(s) of throttle body.
Incorrect idle mixture adjustment. Idle adjusting needle(s) grooved, worn, or otherwise damaged. Plugged idle fuel channel restrictor. Worn or damaged main metering jet. Accelerating pump discharge ball check and/ or weight not seating properly. Fuel pump pressure too low, or excessive.
Restriction in main fuel passage.
POOR ACCELERATION
Poor acceleration complaints fall under one of three headings: the engine is sluggish on acceleration, the engine stalls when accelerated, or the engine hesitates or develops a flat
spot when accelerated. Poor acceleration is caused by either an excessively lean or rich mixture on acceleration and/ or defects or improper adjustments in the ignition system.
A LEAN MIXTURE ON ACCELERATION CAN IE CAUSED IY: Low fuel pump pressure. Sticking fuel inlet needle. Low fuel le~l or float setting. Restriction in main fuel passage. Air leak between the carburettor and the manifold caused by loose mounting bolts or defective gasket. Air leak at the throttle shaft caused by a worn throttle shaft. Accelerating pump diaphragm defective. Incorrect accelerating pump stroke adjUstment.
Accelerating pump fuel inlet valve (Elastomer valve or ball checkMotorcraft 2-V/4·V carburettors) not seating on acceleration. Restriction in the accelerating pump discharge passage. Accelerating pump discharge Elastomer valve (Motorcraft 2-V/4-V carburettors) ball check or weight not coming fully off its seat, or failing to seat properly on the reverse stroke of the pump diaphragm. Air leak at the accelerating pump cover caused by a defective gasket or warped pump cover.
A RICH MIXTURE ON ACCELERATION CAN IE CAUSED IY: Excessive fuel pump pressure.
Incorrect accelerating pump stroke adjustment. Power valve leakage. Restricted air bleeds.
PART 10-1- GENERAL FUEL SYSTEM SERVICE CARIURETTOR DIAGNOSIS GUIDI (Continued) High fuel level or float setting. Fuel inlet needle not seating properly or worn needle and/ or seat. Malfunctioning automatic choke. Excessively dirty air cleaner.
INCONSISTENT ENGINE IDLE SPEED
Fast idle screw contacting low step of cam at curb idle.
Sticking carburettor throttle shaft. Excessive looseness of throttle shaft in bores of throttle body. Incorrectly installed throttle plates.
10-5
Worn or damaged main metering jet. Accelerating pump Elastomer valve (Motorcraft 2-V/4-V carburettors). Ball check and/or weight not seating properly. Incorrect throttle linkage adjustment to carburettor. Binding or sticking throttle linkage or accelerator pedal. Idle compensator malfunctioning (if so equipped). Positive crankcase ventilation system restricted. Sticking fuel inlet needle. Defective power valve or gasket.
Defective coolant thermostat.
AUTOMATIC CHOKE SLOW WARM-UP I ON TOO OnEN
Thermostatic choke setting too rich. Choke linkage sticking or binding. Incorrect choke linkage adjustment. Choke phite misaligned or binding in air .horn.
Restriction or air leak in the choke vacuum or hot air passage. Choke heat inlet tube restricted. Choke clean air tube restricted.
SEVERE TRANSMISSION ENGAGEMENT AnER COLD ENGINE START
Carburettor fast idle speed setting too high. Throttle operating on starting step
(highest step) of the fast idle cam. Binding or sticking throttle linkage .
SURGING (CRUISING SPEEDS TO TOP SPEEDS)
Clogged main jet Improper size main jet Low fuel level or float setting. Low fuel pump pressure or volume. Clogged fuel filter or carburettor
filter screen. Distributor clogged.
REDUCED TOP SPEED
Float setting too high or too low. Fuel pump pressure or volume too high or too low. Improper size or obstructed main jet . Power valve spring weak, or power valve restricted. Restricted air bleeds.
vacuum
passage
Restriction in main fuel passages. Excessive dirt in air cleaner. Throttle plate(s) not fully open. Faulty choke operation. Improper throttle linkage adjustment.
TESTS FUEL PUMP TESTS Two tests: fuel pump static pressure and fuel volume are necessary to determine that the fuel pump is in satisfactory condition. If both the fuel pump volume and pressure are within specifications (pagel0·76) and the pump and lines are in satisfactory condition, a vac- uum test is not required. If the pump volume is low, but the pressure is within specifications, a fuel pump capacity test must be made with the in-line filter, if fitted,
removed. If the pump volume meets specifications with the filter removed, replace the filter. If the pump volume is still below specifications, repeat the capacity test, using an auxiliary fuel supply. If the pump volume still does not meet specifications, replace the pump. If the pump does meet specifications, there is a restriction in the fuel supply from the tank or the tank is not venting propedy. The tests are performed with the fuel pump installed on the engine and the engine temperature stabi-
lized at the normal operating temp_erature. Make certain the replaceable fuel filter is not restricted or clogged. When in doubt, install a new fuel filter prior to performing the tests. A clogged or restricted filter is often the cause of fuel system malfunction. Pressure Test 1. Remove the carburettor air cleaner assembly (page 10·67 ). Disconnect the fuel inlet hose at the fuel filter. Unscrew the filter from the carburettor. Connect the fuel hose to the filter and tighten the retaining
10-6 clamp. Use care to prevent combustion due to fuel spillage. 2. Connect a pressure gauge, restrictor and flexible hose (Fig. 1) between the carburettor inlet port and the fuel filter connections. 3. Position the flexible hose restrictor so that the fuel can be expelled into a suitable container (Fig. I) for the capacity (volume) test. 4. Operate the engine at 500 rpm. Vent the system into the container by opening the hose restrictor momentarily before taking a pressure reading. 5. Operate the engine at 500 rpm. Mter the fuel pump pressure has stabilized, it should be to specification (page 1()-176). Capacity (Volume) Test Perform this test only when the fuel pump pressure is within specifications (page 10-'76 ). 1. Operate the engine at 500 rpm. 2. Open the hose restrictor and expel the fuel into the container (Fig. 1), while observing the time required to expel one pint; then close the restrictor. One pint of fuel should be expelled within the specified time limit (page 10-76 ). 3. Remove the test equipment, and connect the fuel inlet line and fuel filter assembly to the carburettor. CARBURETTOR TESTS Accelerating Pump Discharge Test 1.
Remove the air cleaner (page l 0-6 7 ).
2. Open the primary throttle plates and observe the fuel flow from the accelerating pump discharge nozzles. If the system is operating correctly, a quick steady stream of fuel will flow from the discharge nozzles. Power By-Pass Jet Test Stromberg BV-2: A faulty power by-pass jet in this carburettor will not adversely :1-Hcct the engine idle. If the po·.-:cr by-pass jet is leaking, it will resu't in rich part throttle operation and hi~h fuel comumption. If t!-:.e po·.ver by-pass jet is not screwed down on 1ts seat or is fitted with a faulty sealing gasket, richness will occur in both part throttle and power application of the carburet tor. The power by-pass jet or sealing gasket must be replaced if found defective. Power Valve Test A power valve must not be re-
GROUP 10- FUEL SYSTEM Fuel Outlet Hose
FIG. 1 -Typical
Fuel Pump Pressure and
Capacity Tests placed unless It is leaking sumclently cause an unadjustable rough engine Idle condition. Fuel accumulation in the power valve cover does not necessarily indicate a defective power valve. Fuel vapours will be drawn into the vacuum side of the power valve and condense during periods of deceleration. Leakage in the power valve area can· be caused by an improperly tightened cover or defective gaskets. Any defect in the gasket sealing qualities must be corrected before the power valve is replaced. Power valve leakage that causes an unadjustable rough engine idle condition can be diagnosed, in most instances, by the fact that the idle mixture needle must ·be nearly, or completely seated in order to obtain a relatively smooth engine idle condition. If power valve leakage is suspected, the following test procedure must be performed. to
1. Remove the carburettor from the Intake manifold. Invert the carburettor. 2. Remove the glass bowl from the fixture
(Fig. 2).
Fill the bowl half-
full of- water. Install the bowl on the fixture.
3. Connect a line from a vacuum pump to the fitting on top of the fixture. Insert one end of the wand Into the tube and attach the other end of the tube to the fitting on the side of the fixture. Slip a rubber gasket over the small OD end or the wand. Hold th1a end against the power valve vacuum pick-up port
(Fig. 2).
c. Look for bubble formations In the water In the bowl. A continuous stream of bubbles Indicates leakaee through the power valve dlaphrqm or gasket, or the cover or gasket. If
power
leakage valve,
is encountered, the power valve gasket,
11228-1
FIG. 2- Ford Carburettor Power Valve Test -Typic•l
PART 10-1- GENERAL FUEL SYSTEM SERVICE cover, and cover gasket should be replaced one at a time with a new part and the test repeated unW the source of leakage has been found. If the source of leakage cannot be
EJ
found, the gasket seats are darnapd and the defective parts should be replaced. A few bubbles may be noticed Immediately upon attaching the vacu-
10-7
um line. The bubbllnr should stop within appro:.Umately 111 seconds or after the air has been removed from the system. If no bubbles are seen, the power valve, gaskets and cover are sealing properly.
COMMON ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
All XA/ZF Falcon/Fairlane engines are equipped with carburettors that feature limiter caps fitted to the idle mixture adjustment screws. The purpose of the limiter caps is to limit the maximum idle fuel/air mixture richness and so control the quality of gases discharged from the exhaust system. Note: Carbon Monoxide emission level at idle speed not to exceed 4.5%. Two types of limiter cap are used on current production carburettors. 1. Stromberg lV and 2V carburettors: a free turning cap is fitted over the head of the idle mixture adjusting screw/s preventing any alteration to the factory setting. · 2. Motorcraft 2V and 4V carburettors: fixed caps are fitted to the idle mixture screws and adjustment is restricted to the range provided for by tabs on the limiter caps and stops incorporated in the carburettor body. Under no circumstances should the idle adjusting limiters or the limiter stops be mutilated or deformed to render the limiters inoperative. A satisfactory idle should be obtainable within the range of the idle adjusting limiters providing all other engine systems are operating within specifications. For idle speed and mixture adjustment procedures refer to the specific carburettor section.
THROTTLE LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT The engine idle speed and fuel mixture must be adjusted to specification prior to performing throttle linkage adjustments. For these adjustments, refer to the applicable carburettor section. Views of the throttle (accelerator) linkage for the various car models are shown in Figs. 3, 4, 5 & ~· ACCELERATOR PEDAL IDLE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT Six- Cylinder Refer to Figs. 3 & 4 for a view of the accelerator linkage and the accelerator pedal specified idle height. l. Warm up the engine and adjust the idle speed to specification. Refer to the applicable carburettor section for procedure and to Part 10-9 for specifications.
2. Remove the clip holding the trunnion on the adjustable rod in engagement with the accelerator shaft.
3. Adjust the trunnion on the rod to give the specified idle height at the accelerator pedal. 4. Replace the clip holding the trunnion in engagement with the accelerator shaft. 5. If the vehicle is fitted with an automatic transmission adjust the kickdown cable. Refer to Group 7 for the procedure. 6. Lubricate all pivot points with engine oil.
ACCELERATOR PEDAL IDLE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT V-8 Engines Refer to Figs. 5 and 6 for a view of the accelerator linkage and the accelerator pedal specified idle height. l. Adjust the idle (hot engine) speed to specification. Refer to the applicable carburettor section for procedure and to Part l Q. 9 for specifications.
2. With the engine stopped make sure the carburettor choke plate is fully opened. 3. Detach the adjustable rod assembly from the bellcrank. 4. Adjust trunnion connecting the rod to the accelerator shaft to give the specified pedal height. 5. Adjust the kickdown cable. Refer to Group 7 for procedure. 6. Lubricate the pivot points at both ends of the rods and on the bellcrank using engine oil.
CARBURETTOR SPACER AND/OR GASKETS REPLACEMENT It is necessary to remove the carburetor from the car to replace a carburettor spacer and/or gaskets Refer to the Carburettor Removal and Installation procedure steps in this group that pertain to the type of carburettor installed on the car.
THROTTLE LINKAGE REPAIR ACCELERATOR PEDAL REPLACEMENT Refer to Figs. 3, 4, 5, 6 for views of the accelerator pedal for the applicable car model. 1. Remove the retaining screw securing the pedal to the shaft. Remove the accelerator pedal and spring.
2. Lubricate the accelerator pedal hinge points with the specified lubri-cant
200/250 CID with Borg Warner transmissions. Refer to Figs. 3 & 4 for a view of the accelerator linkage. 1. Remove the accelerator pedal assembly. Refer to previous operation. z. Disconnect the accelerator retracting spring.
3. Remove the clip holding theadjustable rod in engagement with the accelerator shaft.
t. Undo the four screws holding the two accelerator shaft support. brackets to the bulkhead and removethe accelerator shaft. 5. Position the new accelerator shaft and replace and tighten thefour screws holding the two support brackets. Ensure that the rubber sealing pad is correctlY seated against the bulkhead. 6. Replace the accelerator pedal assembly. Refer to Accelerator Pedal Replacement in this section for the proper procedures.
'1. Connect the clip holding the adjustable rod in engagement with the accelerator shaft.
10-8 8. Connect the accelerator retracting spring. 9. Lubricate the pivot points on the acceelrator shaft and pedal with engine oil. 10. Warm up the engine and adjust the accelerator pedal idle height Refer to Accelerator Pedal Idle Height Adjustment, Fig. 3 for the proper procedures. ACCELERATOR SHAFT TO CARBURETTOR BELLCRANK ASSEMBLY ROD REPLACEMENT (All engines) Refer to Figs. 3, 4, 5, 6 for a view of the accelerator linkage.
1. DiscomJect the accelerator retracting spring. 2. Remove the clips at both ends of the rod and remove the rod.
3. Install the new rod and replace the clips.
t. Lubricate the pivot points with engine oil and adjust the accelerator pedal idle height. Refer to accelerator pedal idle height adjUstment in this section for the proper procedures. ACCELERATOR SHAFT TO PEDAL LEVER REPLACEMENT All except 6 cylinder witn Borg Warner transmissions Refer to Figs. 4, 5, 6 for views of the
GROUP 10- FUEL SYSTEM accelerator linkage components.
1. Remove the llCCelerator pedal assembly. Refer to Accelerator Pedal Replacement, in this section, for thP proper procedures. Disconnect the accelerator retracting spring. 2.
3. Remove lever retaining nut and washer. The accelerator shift to pedal lever may now be removed.
t. Install the new lever and replace the retaining nut and washer. 5. Reconnect the accelerator retracting spring and replace the pedal assembly. 8. Check the accelerator pedal for the specified idle height and adjust lf necessary. Refer to Throttle Llnkap adjustment In this section for the proper procedure. 7. Lubricate the accelerator pedal hinge with the specified lubricar.t . ACCELERATOR SHAFT ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT All except 6 cylinder with Borg Warner transmissions. Refer to Figs. 4, 5 & 6 for views of the accelerator linkage components.
1. R!!move the accelerator shaft to pedal lever. Refer to the appropriate part of this section for the proper procedures.
2. Disconnect the rod assemblies connecting the accelerator shift to the carburettor bellcrank and where necessary the auto trans kick down cable. 4. Remove the two screws on the bracket supportir.g the carburettor end of the accelerator shaft. The bracket supporting the pedal end of the shaft need not be removed. 5. The accelerator shaft may now be removed complete with seal and mounting bracket. 6. To replace the shaft, first fit the seal and then insert the shaft through the bulkhead and the pedal and mounting bracket. 7. Bolt the mounting bracket on the carburettor end of the shaft to the bulkhead. a. Reconnect the rod assemblies connecting the shaft to the carburettor bellcrank and refit the transmission cable where applicable. 9. Replace the accelerator shaft to pedal lever and check the pedal for the specified idle height and adjust If necessary. Refer to Throttle Linkage. Adjustment In this section for the proper procedure. 10. Lubricate both mounting bracket pivots, the rod assembly pivots and the accelerator pedal hinge using engine oil.
IDLE PEDAl HEIGHT WITH CARBURETTOR CHOKE FUllY OPENED
ADJUST ROD ASSY . (97401 TO OBTAIN FULL THROTTLE WHEN SHAFT ASSY . (97251 TOUCHES THE FLOOR COVERING
~ ~·~ VJf:W
" W"
35 -65
~OTS VIEW
lB .
OF lOCKING - COMPOUND CENTRAllY lOCATED
" X"
.,,..
IN .
~ PEDAl
HEIGHT
SETTING
REF.
I
G)
~sLB .
m z m PANEL
VIEW
INSTRUMENT
~
r-
REF .
., c
"Y "
HOLE
REF.
-w ·
~VIEW
" X"
--1
Cj)
A"' J -~~
15 -25
I
m lr-
~ m
LU~•ICATE
PER
PiVOTS
MARKED e
CHART
*
CHASSIS LUB~ IC ATION SEC. 3 No . 457 -4 WITH THE ~ :~AFT A SSY . 9919 SET AT· IDLE , I .DJUST TPIINION " A " SO THAT THE l oHO HOLE " B' CRIMPED STOP ON KICK DOWN INNER (' '.C~ E JUST TOUCHES THE OUTER CABLE WITHOUT SLACK . THEN
I NSTALL
CLIP
~
AU i OMATIC
KID CABLE
TRANSMISSION ADJUSTMENT
(/)
m;:tO
<
()
m
9825
Fig.,3 200 & 250 1V & 250 2V Manual 6 cylinder B. Warner Trans.
Cj)
~
PANEL -DASH
-9
REF
0
ADJUST ROD TO OBTAIN FULL THROTTLE WHEN LEVER ASSY . (9725/99734) TOUCHES THE FLOOR COVERING .
,,U ~"'~ ·
VIEW
35-65
·~TS
LB.
r
OF LOCKING COMPOUND CENTRALLY LOCATED REF .
...
· -y- ·
MANUAL
PEDAL
~
IN .
TRANS.
ONLY
VIEW
"Y ' '
HEIGHT SETTING AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ADJUSTMENT
CONTROL
,.,
(i)
0
c.,
-
LEVER POSITION WITH PEDAl. AT W.O .T. POSITION
?, c
m
r-
~
LEVER AUTOMATIC
"
TRANSMISSION
" W"
WITH THE LINKAGE COMPLETELY ASSEMBLED . THIS DISTANCE IS TO BE SUCH THAT THE TRANSMISSION DOWNSHIFT LEVER ROTATES COUNTER CLOCKWISE AND CONTACTS THE INTERNAL STOP WITH THE PEDAL DE.PRESSED TO W .O .T. TRANS DOWNSHIFT LEVER ROTATED AND HELD AGAINST INTERNAL KICKDOWN STOP BY PUllii\IG CABLE ADJUSTING END.
Fig. 4
250 2V C4 & Man., Typical250 1V-C4
~ m
~
ONLY
~ VIEW
"C'
LEVER
"C .
BLOCK ACCELERATOR PEDAL IN W .O .T. POSITION. " C"
ROTATE LEVER "C' COUNTER CLOCKWISE TO CONTACT INTERNAL STOP. HOLD LEVER " C" ON STOP AND ADJUST CABLE TO FIT ACCELERATOR SHAFT LEVER . TURN TRUNNION ONE ADDITIONAL TURN CLOCKWISE AND SECURE TO LEVER . RELEASE
ACCELERATOR
PEDAL.
-~
DOTS OF LOCKING COMPOUND CENTRALLY LOCATED REF.
ADJUST ROD TO OBTAIN FUll THROTTLE WHEN LEVER ASSY . TOUCHES THE FLOOR COVERING.
PEDAL
HEIGHT
SETTING
VIEW
" Z' "
VIEW
" Y"
VIEW
PANEL
~
DASH
.,
"X"
~ :tal
-1
-
(REF.) AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION CONTROL ADJUSTMF"'T
-
9
/
I
G)
PANEl -DASH
m
z
REF.
m
VIEW
~
~
-n
r-
Ra----.
l'(lp-11 ~ VIEW
~~
" Z"
LEVER VIEW
"C"
" V" VIEW
~ VIEW
" U"
" V "/
VIEW
WITH THE LINKAGE COMPLETELY ASSEMBLED . THIS DISTANCE IS TO BE SUCH THAT THE TRANSMISSION DOWNSHIFT LEVER ROTATES COUNTER CLOCKWISE AND CONTACTS THE INTERNAL STOP WITH THE PEDAL DEPRESSED TO W .O .T.
~m
~
" W"
I'
TRANS DOWNSHIFT LEVER ROTATED AND HELD AGAINST INTERNAL KICKDOWN STOP BY PULLING CABLE ADJUSTING END.
Fig. 5 VS-302 & 351 2V C4
)>
r-
··x· ·
c m
r1:1 OIL PIVOT MARKED ··x·· GREASE PIVOTS MARKE~
VIEW
(/)
m
~
BLOCK ACCELERATOR PEDAL IN W .O .T. POSITION .
"C
ROTATE LEVER "' C'" COUNTER CLOCKWISE TO CONTACT INTERNAL STOP.
< () m
HOLD LEVER " C' " ON STOP M'r: ADJUST CABLE TO FIT ACCELERATv~ SHAFT LEVER . TURN TRUNNION ONE ADDITIONAL TURN CLOCKWISE AND SECURE TO LEVER . RELEASE
ACCELERATOR
PEDAL
--
9
-
-C? N
·--- ~
35 -65
LB .
IN .
1;-
VIEW
·· y ··
DOTS OF LOCKING COMPOUND CENTRALLY LOCATED REF .
ADJUST ROD "19A702 TO OBTAIN FUll THROTTLE WHEN LEVER ASSY TOUCHES THE FLOOR COVfRING .
PE DAL
HEIGHT
SETTING
VIEW
·
z--
VIEW
C:::D
PANEL
DASH
(REF .!
G\ ~
0
.,
c:
PANEL-DASH
VIEW
~
VIEW
rt:J OIL
PIVOT
SPEASE
MA~KED
PIVOTS
~
AUTOMATIC
c
m
r-
COLOUR
. z-VIEW
W
BLUE
351 -4V
ORANGE
KICK
~
CODE
351 -2V
X
DOWN
~ CONTROL
ADJUSTMENT
MARKED
18 8
-.,f
REF .
TRAN ~ MISSION
Fig. 6
V8 3514V FMX
cer
ONLY
3
~ VIEW
WITH TRANS ROD 7A186 INSTALLED , HOLD CARBURETTOR THROTTLE LEVER IN W .O .T. POSITION-AGAINST STOP.
~
C5 VIEW
·· u ··
•
2.
HOLD TRANSMISSION IN FUll KICK DOWN POSITION AGAINST INTERNAL STOP
3.
TURN ADJUSTMENT SCREW ON CARBURETTOR KICK-DOWN LEVER TO WITHIN 04o·· TO 080 .. GAP OF CONTACT ING PICK -UP SURFACE OF Cf,RB . THROTTLE LEVER .
4.
RELEASE CARS . ANO FREE POSITIONS
5
INSTAll ACCELERATOR 9737 AND KICK -DOWN 78146 RETRACTING SPR INGS.
·· w . 8
TRANS .
TO
PART 10-1- GENERAL FUEL SYSTEM SERVICE
EJ
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
CADURmORS Dirt, gum, water or carbon contamination in the carburettor or the exterior moving parts of the carburettor are often responsible for unsatisfactory performance. For this reason emcient carburetion depends upon careful cleaning and inspection. The cleaning and inspection of only those parts not included in the carburetor overhaul repair kit are covered here. All gaskets and parts included in the repair kit should be installed when the carburettor is assembled and the old gaskets and parts should be discarded. Wash all the carburettor parts except the accelerating pump diaphragm, and the power valve in clean commercial carburettor cleanmg solvent. If a commercial solvent is not available, lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol may be used.
Rinse the parts in kerosene to remove all traces of the cleaning solvent, then dry them with compressed air. Wipe all parts that cannot be immersed in solvent with a clean, soft, dry cloth. Be sure all dirt, gum, carbon and other foreign matter are removed from all parts. Force compressed air tnrough all passages of the carburetor. Do not use a wire brush to dean any parts or a drUI or wire to dean out any openin1s or passa1es in the carburetor. A drill or wire may enlarge the hole or passage, changing the calibration of the carburettor. Check the choke shaft for grooves, wear and excessive looseness or binding. Inspect the choke plate for nicked edges and for ease of operation and free it if necessary. Make sure all carbon and foreign material has been removed from the automatic choke housing and the piston. Check the operation of the automatic choke piston in the choke housing to make certain it has free movement. Check the throttle shaft(s) in the bore(s) for exceBBive loosenBBB or binding and check the throttle plates for burrs which prevent proper closure. On Stromberg carburettors, check the
metallic float for leaks by holding
it under . water that has been heated to just below the boiling point. Bubbles will appear if there is a leak. If a float leaks, replace it. Replace the float if the arm needle contact surface is grooved. If the float is serviceable, polish the needle contact surface with crocus cloth or steel wool. Replace the float shaft if it is worn. Replace all screws and nuts that have stripped threads. Replace all distorted or broken springs. Inspect all gasket mating surfaces for nicks and burrs. Repair or replace any parts that have a damaged gasket surface. On 2-V and 4-V oarburettors, inspect the idle tubes in each nozzle bar 8886m· bly. If they are plugged, bent or broken, replace the booster venturi and nozzle bar 8886mbly. FUEL PUMP On all fuel pumps, except Carter permanently sealed types, clean the fuel pump body, valve housing and cover. Blow out all body, housing and cover passages. Inspect the pump body, valve housing, cover, rocker arm, spring and pin for cracks or damage and replace them if necessary. If the fuel valYes are not serviceable and replacement is necessary, replace the valve housing and valves as an assembly, Inspect the mounting flange for distortion.
Remove the pump body or lap the distorted flange if necessary. On all Carter permanently sealed fuel pumps, clean the fuel pump with a cloth. Inspect the fuel pumps for c:racka or damage. Inspect the moun~ 1ng ftange for cllatortlon. Lap the dlatorted flange, if nec:essary. Inspect. the rocker arm for wear, cracks or damage. The rocker arm spriD(, pin and &be rocker arm are &be oDiy compoDeD&e on &be perm&Den&ly sealed fael pampa &bat are replaeeable. U any other fuel pump components are damaged beyond repair, replace the fuel pump.
AIR CLEANER MAINTENANCE
Refer to Group 19 for the recommended air cleaner assembly maintenance mUeage interval.
10-13
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Refer to page 10-67, Section 2 for
the air cleaner 8886mbly removal and installation procedures.
FILTER ELEMENT The eellulose fibre filter elemen~ must never be cleaned with a solvent or cleanJnr solution. Also, oU must not be added to the surfac:es of tha filter element or air cleaner body. There are two alternate procedures. that can be used to clean the air filter element. One method is performed with the use of compressed air. The other is perfomed by tapping the element on a smooth horizontal surface.
Compressed Air Method Direct a stream of compressed air through the element in the direction opposite that of the intake air flow, that is from the inside outward. Extreme c:are must be exercised to prevent rupture of the element materiaL
Tappin, Method Hold the element in the vertical position and tap it lightly against a smooth, horizontal surface to shake the dust and dirt out. Do not deform the element or clama&'e &be psket sarfaees by tapplnl too hard. Rotate the ftlter after each tap until the entire outer surface has been cleaned.
lnspec:tlon Hold the filter in front of a backup light and carefully inspect it for any splits or cracks. If the filter is split or cracked, replace it. BODY AND COVER
Clean the air cleaner body and the cover with a solvent or com-
pressed air.
Wipe the air cleaner
dry if a solvent is used. Inspect the
air cleaner body and cover for distortion or damage at the gasket mating ·surfaces. Replace the cover or body if they are damaged beyond repair.
10-14
PART 10·2
STROMBERG CARBURETTOR BV2200,250 IV 6 CYLINDER ENGINES
Section 1. DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION ... ... ... ... Description ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .. . ... Operation ............... ..... . 2. INVEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS AND REP AIRS Carburettor Adjustments ... . .. Initial Idle Speed Adjustment .. . Idle Limiter Cap Replacement .. . Carburettor Repairs ... ... ... ...
0
Page 10-14 10-14 10-14 10-17 10-17 10-17 10-18 10-19
Section 3. REMOVAL, MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS AND INSTALLATION Removal ... ... ... ...... Disassembly .. . .. . ... ... Cleaning and Inspection Assembly ...... ...... ...
Page 10-20 10-20 10-20 10-21 10-21
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
DESCRIPTION The Carburettor
(Figs.
1 and
2)
consists of three main assemblies, the
The lower throttle body contains the idle-mixture-adjusting screw and the throttle valve.
OPERATION The engine speed is controlled by the proportion of fuel and air delivered to the cylinders for all engine operating conditions. Air is drawn into the carburettor air horn by manifold vacuum. As the
air passes through the carburettor on its way to enter the cylinders, a reduced pressure is created at the fuel discharge outlets.
The fuel bowl is vented to atmosphere at closed throttle and to carburettor air inlet pressure through a vent tube in the upper air horn at all other throttle positions. The high air pressure exerted on the fuel in the chamber forces fuel to travel up through the fuel discharge channels and out into the air stream passing through the carburetor. The fuel and air are mixed at this point and distributed to the engine cylinders for combustion. FUEL INLET SYSTEM
The fuel inlet system (Fig. 3) of the carburettor maintains a predetermined fuel level in the fuel bowl. The fuel level in the chamber is extremely important to carburettor calibration. If the level of the fuel in the chamber is below the specified setting, a lean fuel air mixture will result. A rich fuel air mixture occur from a higher than specified fuel level. The entire calibration of the carburettor is disturbed if the fuel level is not set as specified.
will
Fuel enters the chamber through the fuel-inlet needle-valve-and-seat assembly. The amount of fuel entering is regulated by the distance the needle valve is moved off the seat and by fuel pump pressure. Correct fuel pump pressure is required to maintain the carburettor fuel level within the specified limits.
FIG. 1-3/4 Left Rear View
The fuel level is maintained at a pre-determined level by the float and lever assembly which controls the movement of the needle valve. The
PART 10-2- STROMBERG BV-2 CARBURETTOR
10-15
venturi causes a pressure drop in the venturi great enough to bring the main metering system into operation as the idle fuel metering system tapers o.ff. MAIN FUEL METERING SYSTEM
FIG. 2-Carburettor f Rear View needle valve, contacting the tab of the ftoat and lever assembly, reacts to any change in height of the ftoat and the fuel level in the ftoat chamber. IDLE FUEL SYSTEM
The idle fuel system functions when the engine is operating at low R.P.M. It supplies the fuel-air mixture when the air ftow through the carburettor venturi is insufficient to operate the main metering system. The range of the idle system will extend into the operation of the main metering system. Fuel ftows from the main channel, up the idle tube channel and through the calibrated idle tube assembly. Filtered air from the carburettor air horn enters the idleair-bleed and mixes with the fuel. The air bleed also serves as a vent to prevent syphoning of fuel at high speeds or when the engine is shut off. The fuel-air mixture then passes through the idle down channel and is transferred to the idle channel in the throttle body. The fuel-air mixture passes down the idle channel, past the progression holes, to the idle . needle valve. The progression holes act as additional air bleeds at normal idle. The fuel-air mixture ftows past the idle needle valve and seat and is discharged through the idle discharge nozzle located below the throttle
valve. The amount of mixture to be discharged is determined by the position of the idle needle valve in relation to its seat in the throttle body. During off-idle operation, when the throttle valve is moved past the idle progression holes, each hole begins discharging fuel as it is exposed to the lower air pressure (manifold vacuum>. Continued opening of the throttle valve increases engine R.P.M. and air ftow through the carburettor. The greater air ftow through the
The main fuel metering system (Fig. 4 > supplies the fuel required during the cruise or part-throttle range. The system begins to function when the air ftow through the carburettor venturi creates sufficient vacuum to start fuel flowing in the main system. The vacuum at the tip of the main discha-rge jet will increase as the air flow increases. The faster the engine operates, the more fuel will flow through the main fuel system. Fuel entering the main metering jet, located at the base of the inclined main channel, ftows upwards to the main discharge jet. Air from the calibrated high-speed bleed ftows down the high-speed bleed channel and enters the main channel. The air passes through holes spaced along the body of the main discharge jet, mixing with the fuel passing up the main channel. The fuel and air mixture being lighter than solid fuel, responds faster to changes in venturi pressures. The mixture ftows to the tip of the main discharge jet to be discharged into the filtered air moving past and through the small venturi. ACCELERATING PUMP SYSTEM
Smooth acceleration requires a momentary increase in the supply of
FIG. 3-Fuel Inlet System Typical
GROUP 10- FUEL SYSTEM
10-16
HIGH SPEED BLEED
preventing entry of air. POWER FUEL SYSTEM
MAIN CHANNEL
MAIN METERING
JET
FUEl ='""
FUEL - AIR~
AIR-
FIG. 4-Main Fuel Metering System-Typical PUMP SPRING
PUMP PISTON
FIG. 5-Accelerating Pump System -Typical fuel. The air ftow through the carburettor responds almost immediately to any increase in carburettor throttle valve opening. The fuel '1\ithin the metering passages will lag momentarily in its response to the pressure difference created by this increased air ftow. This lag in fuel response will cause a temporary leanness in the fuel-air mixture that results In a. hesitation in engine acceleration. A mechanically operated accelerating pump system (Fig. 5) supplies added fuel to provide a richer fuel-air mixture for this brief period of time. The accelerating pump, located in the main body, is controlled by levers connected to the throttle shaft. When the throttle is opened the pump spring actuates the piston and forces
fuel from the accelerating pump cylinder into the discharge channel. (The carburettor as fitted to all models except the 25 0 CID Manual features a small bleed back hole in the accelerator pump stem. The accelerator pump fitted to auto transmission vehicles has a shorter pump stroke than the one fitted to manual transmission models). The inlet pump check valve closes to prevent a reverse flow of fuel. Fuel under pressure travels through the pump discharge valve and up to the pump restrictor. The fuel is sprayed from the pump rcstrictor into the air stream above the main venturi. When the throttle valve is closed on deceleration, the throttle shaft levers allow the piston to return to its upper position drawing fuel through the inlet pump check valve while the pump discharge valve closes
When the engine is required to deliver more power to meet an increased road-load demand or wideopen-throttle operation, the carburettor must deliver a. richer fuel-ail' mixture than supplied during the operation of the main fuel system at cruise or part throttle operation. When the engine is running under a. high power demand, intake manifold vacuum is low. The vacuum below the throttle valve approximates intake manifold vacuum. The carburettor power by-pass jet
PART 10-2-STROMBERG BV-2 CARBURETTOR
10-17
rod move up and the power Jet closes. FUEL BOWL VENTING SYSTEM
POWER PISTON ROD POWER PISTON SPRING
FIG. 6-Power Fuel System -Typical
The fuel bowl requires venting
The carburettor has a permanent push-on type vacuum take-off connection located on the throttle body casting. Tne manifold vacuum is transmitted to the distributor vacuum diaphragm take off connection, through two small holes drilled in the throttle body above the throttle plate.
FIG. 7-Fuel Bowl Venting System -Typical
B
IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
INITIAL IDLE SPEED AND FUEL MIXTURE ADJUSTM~NT
All Stromberg carburettors fitted to XA/ZF Falcon/Fairlane engines are equip· ped with limiter caps on the idle mixture adjusting screws. The limiters control the maximum idle richness and help prevent unauthorised persons from making overly rich idle adjustments. Carbon Monoxide emission at idle must not exceed 4.5%.
The limiter cap fitted to the Stromberg carburettor is free turning on the head of the idle mixture adjusting screw, therefore IDLE ADJUSTMENT THE ONLY ALLOWABLE IN NORMAL SERVICE IS THE ENGINE IDLE SPEED . A satisfactory idle should be obtained, providing all other engine systems are operating within specifications.
1. Operate the engine until engine temperatures are stabilized. On a car with an air eondltloner, operate the
enrlne settlnr enrlne the air
for twenty minutes before the enrlne Idle speed. The Idle speed Is adjusted with conditioner operatlnr.
2. Position the transmission lever In neutral. Allow the throttle to drop back to the normal Idle speed position. Attach a tachometer to the engine. Set the parking brake.
3. Turn on the headlamps. It Is necessary to place the alternator un-
10-18 der a la.d condition In this manner In order to obtain the specified encine Idle speed durl~ the adjustment proeedure4. On a ear with a manual shift transmission, the ~ine Idle speed is checked and adjusted with the leal' shift lever in neutral position. On a ear with an automatic tr&Dsmiaion, the e~lne Idle speed is checked &D4 adjusted ftnt with the transmission. ~elector lever in the neutral position. and adjusted with the transm•uton ~elector lever in the drive nnre position.
GROUP 10- FUEL SYSTEM 5. Attach an accurate tachometer to the engine. 6. Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached. 7. Adjust the idle air/fuel mixture screw to give the best quality idle available at 20 R.P.M. above the specified idle speed. 8. Lean off the idle air/fuel mixture adjusting screw in a clockwise direction until the engme R.P.M . drops to the specified idle speed. 9. Remove the air cleaner. 10. Carefully install the black service limiter cap on the head of the idle mixture adjusting screw. 11. Replace the air cleaner and check the idle speed to ensure that the mixture screw was not accidently rotated while fitting the limiter cap. 12. Remove the tachometer from the engine.
4. Open throttle wide and again measure from the top of the pump piston stem to the top face of the carburettor or main body with gasket removed. 5. The difference between these two measurements will be the length of the pump stroke. This length should be within the specified limits with the mean size of the limits being desirable. If the measurement is found to be outside the specified limits, the pump stroke can be adjusted by bending the arm of the pump rod. No more than 1(64" to 1(32" adjustment should be required. Two bends in the arm will be necessary to keep the hole in the arm parellel with the pump stem.
6.
Return the air horn gasket to
FIG. 8 -Idle Speed Adiustments-BV2-Typical 5. Adjust the engine idle speed to specifications (Part 10·9) by turning the engine idle speed screw (Fig. 8) inward or outward. If the car is equipped with an auto· matic transmission, position the selector lever in drive range to check and adjust the idle speed to specification (Part 10·9) if necessary.
The ftnal e~lne idle speed may be varied to suit the conditions under which the ear is to be operated. (On the Stromberg BV-2 carburettor, cold idle speed is automatically obtained with hot idle adjustment).
-Accelerating Pump Stroke Adiustment -Stromberg BV2 FIG. 9
ACCELERATING PUMP ADJUSTMENTS Accelerating Pump Stroke(Fig. 9) Do not remove the carburettor from
the engine to adjust the pump stroke. IDLE LIMITER CAPS Should the idle limiter caps need replacement because of deformation or readjustment of idling mixture to meet emission level requirements, the following 'thermal conductivity' type of gas analyzer found in most service shops is not accurate enough to give the required carbon monoxide readings. 1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Cut the plastic limiter cap and carefully pry the cap apart and remove it from the idle adjustment screw. 3. Replace the air cleaner. 4. Set the ignition timing to specification.
To check the pump stroke : 1. Start the engine and run at idle to normalise engine temperature. Set the engine to the correct idle speed. This is important as it gives the correct closed throttle position. 2. Stop engine and remove c~.ir cleaner assembly (page 10-67, Section 2) and carburettor air horn (page 10-20, Section 3).
3. Measure from the top of the pump piston stem to the top face of the carburettor main body with gasket removed.
FIG. 10-Fioat Adiustment its position and replace the air hom and air cleaner 6BB6mbly.
The capacity of the accelerator pump is correctly calibrated at the specified pump stroke and any variation of this stroke outside the limits given must result in reduced performance and economy. FLOAT ADJUSTMENT
The dry fioat adjustment is a preliminary factory adjustment only, The final adjustment
The fuel pump pressure and volume must be to specification (Part 10-9) prior to performing the following adjustments : -
PART 10-2-STROMBERG BV-2 CARBURETTOR drawn from the fuPl bowl.
1. Operate the engine to normalize engine temperatures, and place the car on a flat surface as near level as possible. Stop the engine.
3. If necessary, remove the fuel line and unscrew needle valve and seat from main body.
2. Remove the carburettor air cleaner assembly (page 10.-67 ,) Section 2) if it has not been previously removed. 3. Disconnect the choke cable from the choke lever.
'- Remove the air horn retaining screws and remove the air horn and reinforcing bar. 5. Using a suitable piece of material block off the vacuum passage in the carburettor body (Fig. 10). Start the engine. Let the engine idle for sufficient time to stabilize the fuel level then raise the gasket to an out-of-the-way position. 6. While the engine Is idling, use a standard depth scale to measure the vertical distance from the top machined surface of the carburettor main body to the level of the fuel In the float chamber . The measurement must be maae away from any vertical surface to ensure an accurate reading, because the surface of the fuel 1s concave
Float AdJustment Care must be exercised to measure the fuel level at the point of contact with the fuel. Do not apply pressure on the fuel inlet needle. The viton tip of the fuel inlet needle may be damaged through undue pressure exerted on It, and thus cause Improper fuel level wjthln the bowl. Refer to the specifications setting.
VENT VALVE ADJUSTMENT
1. Ensure the engine idle speed is correct and engine is at normal operating temperature. This is important as it gives correct closed throttle pcsition. 2. Remove the air cleaner assembly (page 10- 67) Section 2) and with the throttle in the idle position, loosen vent valve locknut and adjust from .05"- .06" to the closed position when throttle is opened. 3. Install air cleaner assembly. (page 10- 67 • Section 2).
4. If the float was removed, install the fulcrum pin in the float hinge and position float in float chamber. Replace the fulcrum-pin-retaining clip. 5. If the float needle valve and seat were removed insert the needle valve into the bore, with the viton tip toward the seat.
FIG. 11 -Vent Valve
Adiustment-Strombe rg BV2 2. Remove the choke Unk from the choke lever. 3. Remove t..'lle air horn to main body retaining screws and remove the reinforcing bar.
'- Remove the carburettor air horn. 5. From the top of the pump stem remove the spring cUp and withdraw the pump rod from the main body. Remove and discard the gasket. 6. Install a new gasket on the carburettor main body. Make sure the gasket is not damaged and that no foreign material has adhered to the gasket. 7_ Insert the pump rod into its guide hole In the main body and secure on pump stem with spring clip. 8. Replace the air horn and reinforcing bar and tighten screws. 9. Replace choke unk and clip. 10. Replace
air cleaner assembly.
11. Adjust the engine idle speed as outlined in this section.
I.
Remove the air cleaner assembly.
6. Install needle and seat in main body and tighten with wrench. 7. Reconnect fuel line and check the float setting. Refer to Float Adjustment-Wet in this section for the proper procedure. 8. Install the carburettor air horn and gasket by following steps 6-10 under carburettor Air Horn to Main Body Gasket Replacement in this section. MAIN JET REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the Metering Jet plug, positioned below the fuel bowl. Removal of this plug allows the fuel bowl to drain and care should be taken to prevent accidental ignition of fuel. 2. With a special wrench the main metering jet can be unscrewed from its position and withdrawn through the metering jet plug hole. 3. Place the new main metering jet in position on the wrench and carefully feed through metering jet plug hole. Screw the jet into position without forcing or over-tightening. 4. Replace the metering jet plug making sure that the copper seaUng gasket is properly positioned. Tighten. ACCELERATOR PUMP PLUNGER REPLACEMENT I.
FLOAT OR NEEDLE VALVE REPLACEMENT-
I. Remove the carburettor air horn and gasket by following steps 1-5 under Air- Horn- to- Main-Body -Gasket Replacement in this section.
CARIURmOR REPAIRS AIR HORN TO MAIN BODY GASKET REPLACEMENT-
10-19
2. If necessary, remove the float chamber baffle and the fulcrum pin retaining clip. The float assembly and fulcrum pin can n0w be with-
Remove the air cleaner assembly
2. Withdraw cho~e link-retaining clip and remove choke link. 3. Remove the air horn to main body retaining screws and the reinforcing bar. The air horn can now be separated from the main body. 4. Place a small lever such as a screwdriver under the horizontal area of the pump rod and lever upwards to remove the split spring retaining
10-20 bush from the top of the pump cylinder. 5. Remove the pump piston from cylinder, remove spring clip from pump stem and separate pump piston, pump rod, spring, bush and gasket. Discard the gasket. 6. Insert the new pump piston in its cylinder taking care not to crease or fold the leather. A circular twisting motion applied to the leather assists in this operation as does a drop of Ught lubricating oil. Place the pump spring in position over the pump stem and press in the split spring retaining bush tlush with the surface of the main body. 7. Place a new gasket on the main body then fit the pump rod and spring clip. 8. Replace the air horn in position on the main body. Holding the reinforcing bar in position, install and
EJ
tighten air horn retaining screws. Note that the two longer screws are used to retain the reinforcing bar. 9. Replace tne choke link and install the retaining clip. 10. Perform a vent valve adjustment as outlined in this section. 11. Install the air cleaner assembly VENT VALVE REPLACEMENT STROMBERG BV -2 I.
Remove the air cleaner assembly.
2. Withdraw choke link-retaining clip and remove choke link. 3. Remove the air horn to main body retaining screw's and the reinforcing bar. The air horn can now be separated from the main body. 4.
Loosen the vent valve locknut
and remove from the valve stem. This will allow ·the valve stem and valve spring to be withdrawn from the underneath side of the air horn. 5. Locate the vent valve spring on the spigot provided on the underside of the air horn and place the vent valve stem in position. Install vent valve locknut. 6. Replace the air horn in position on the main body. Holding the reinforcing bar in position, install and tighten air horn retaining screws. Note that two longer screws are used to retain the reinforcing bar. 7. Replace the choke link and mstall the retaining clip. 8. Perform a vent valve adjustment as outlined in this section. 9.
Install the air cleaner assembly
REMOVAL, MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONSAND INSTALLATION
REMOVAL Flooding, stumble on acceleration and other performance complaints are, in many instances, caused by the presence of dirt, water or other foreign matter in the carburettor. To aid in diagnosing the cause of complaint, the carburettor should be carefully removed from the engine without removing the fuel from the bowl. The contents of the bowl may then be examined for contaminatiOn as the carburettor is disassembled. 1. Remove the air cleaner. (pagel
GROUP 10- FUEL SYSTEM
Remove the distributor vacuum•
6. Remove the two flange retaining nuts and lock washers and remove the carburettor. Remove the gaskets from the intake manifold 11.nd discard.
DISASSEMBLY Use a separate container for the component parts of the various assemblies to facilitate cleaning, in-
spection and assembly. The following is a step-by-step sequence of operations for completely overhauling the carburettor, however, certain components of the carburettor may be serviced without a complete disassembly of the entire unit. A disassembled view of the carburettor is shown in Fig. 12
AIR HORN AND MAIN BODY I. Withdraw choke-link-retaining clip and remove choke link.
2. Remove the air horn to main body retaining screws and reinforcing bar. The air horn can now be separated from the main body.
MAIN BODY AND THROTTLE BODY 1. Remove choke outer cable clamp screw and cable clamp. Disconnect throttle return spring from lever on throttle shaft. 2. Remove the main body to throttle body retaining screws. 3. Separate the main body assembly, the gasket and the throttle body. Discard the gasket.
AIR HORN I. With the special tool unscrew the power piston assembly and remove it from its cylinder.
2.
Remove the vent valve locknut.
This will allow the valve stem and valve spring to be withdrawn from the underneath side of the air horn. 3. Withdraw air cleaner bail pin from its locating holes and remove bail from air horn. 4. If it is necessary to remove the choke valve and shaft, lightly scribe the choke valve along the choke shaft so that the choke valve can be installed in the same position during installation. Remove the choke valve retaining screws. The retaining screws are staked in the choke shaft. If the tips of the screws are flared excessively, file off the flared portion to avoid damage to the threads in the choke shaft. Be careful not to damage the choke shaft or valve while filing the screws. Remove the choke valve from the top of the air horn. Slide the choke shaft and lever from the air horn and separate shaft, lever and spring.
MAIN BODY I. Withdraw screws and remove choke control bracket assembly.
2. Place a small lever such as a driver under the horizontal arm of the pump rod and levering upwards remove the split spring retaining bush from the top of the pump cylinder. ~crew
3. Remove the pump piston from cylinder, remove spring clip from
PART 10-3-STROMBERG CARBURETTOR
. 10-21
to ensure correct Installation. It Is impol'ta.nt that no probe or wire be Inserted into the bore of the main discharge jet. To do so will cause damage to the screen located within.
11. Remove pump Inlet check valve. lZ. Remove strainer and strainer screen.
screen
clip
THROTTLE BODY
1. Do not remove the idle mixture adjusting screw and spring unless absolutely necessary.
I
~
2. Remove the throttle lever retaining nut and lockwasher and remove throttle lever assembly. 3. If It Is necessary to remove the throttle valve and shaft, lightly scribe the throttle valve along the throttle shaft so that the throttle valve can be installed In the same position during Installation.
Remove the throttle valve retaining screws and slide the valve out of the shaft. For assembly purposes note that the dimple In the throttle valve Is located above the throttle shaft. If the tips of the screws are flared excessively, file off the tlared section to avoid damage to the threads In the throttle shaft. Be careful not to damage the throttle shaft or valve while filing the screws. C. Withdraw the throttle shaft from the throttle body and remove pump tloatlng lever from shaft.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
FIG. 12 -Carburettor Exploded View pump stem and separate pump piston, pump rod, spring, bush and gasket. Discard the gasket. 4. Withdrllw float chamber baffle from guide slots. Remove fulcrumpin- retaining clip and withdraw fulcrum pin and float assembly. Remove needle valve. Unscrew and remove needle valve seat and gasket.
5. Unscrew and remove idle tube, power by-pass jet and gasket. 6. Remove the main metering jet and pump-inlet-check-valve plugs and copper gaskets.
7. Remove the main metering jet using special tool <6A12l. 8. Remove main discharge jet using special tool <6Alll.
N.B. The main discharge jet is accurately calibrated and assembled within close tolerances during manufacture. For normal cleaning and service operations It Is advisable to leave the main discharge jet undisturbed. If, however, the main discharge jet is suspected of being damaged or is to be replaced, care should be taken to note Its position
Clean and Inspect the carburettor component parts. Refer to Part 10-1, Section 3, for the proper procedure. Replace all worn or damaged parts. ASSEMBLY Make sure all holes in the new gaskets have been properly punched and that no foreign material has adhered to the gaskets. During assembly of the carburettor, certain adjustments are required. The details of these adjustments are covered on page 10 17 A disassembled view of the carburettor is shown in Fig. 12 AIR BORN
1. If the choke valve and shaft were removed, reassemble the choke
10-22
GROUP 10-FUEL SYSTEM
shaft, lever and spring and insert the shaft into the air horn with the lever poin~ing downwards. Refer to the line previously scribed on the choke valve and locate the choke valve in its original position with valve !dentation facing upwards. Install the choke valve retaining screws snug, but not tight. Check for proper valve fit, binding in the air horn and free rotation of the shaft by moving the valve from the closed position to open position. If it moves freely, tighten the choke valve retaining screws while holding the valve in the fully-closed position. Stake the screws. When staking the screws, support the shaft and valve on a block of wood or a metal bar to prevent bendIng of the shaft. 2. Replace the air cleaner . bail making sure the bail pin engages properly in holes. 3. Locate the vent valve sprin~ On the spigot provided on the underneath side of the air horn and place the vent valve stem in position. Install vent valve locknut. Perforn, the vent valve adjustment operation after carburettor is assembled and installed on engine. 4. Install the vacuum power piston assembly and tighten it with special tool. Check the piston for free movement in the cylinder. XX CAUTION -Do not lubricate the piston. MAIN BODY
1. Install the pump screen and retaining clip.
straining
Z. Install the pump inlet check valve. 3. If the main discharge jet was removed, position the jet on the special tool and install in position. CAUTION-Make sure that the jet Is correctly located in the body. The mitred face of the jet must be parallel with the direction of the air flow. Hold the main body of the carburettor in an inverted_ position so that there is no possibility of the main discharge jet being displaced, then with the special tool, 6A12, install the main metering jet and tighten securely. 4.
5. Place new copper gaskets in the plug seats of the body, then install
and tighten the main-metering-jet plug and inlet-check-valve plug. 6. Install tube.
and
tighten
the idle
"1. Using a new gasket install and tighten the power by-pass jet.
8. Install the fulcrum pin in the float hinge, place the float In the main body so that the ends of the fulcrum pin tit Into the grooves In each side of the float chamber, place the fulcrum pin clip ends In the grooves and force the bowed part of spring down to clip under the projection on the side of the body. Refit the float chamber baffle.
9. Insert the pump piston In its cylinder taking care not to crease or fold the leather. A circular twisting motion applied to the leather assists in this operation as does a drop of light lubricating oil. Place the pump spring in position over the pump and press in the split spring-retaining bush flush with the surface of the main body. 10. Place a new gasket on the malil body then fit the pump rod and spring clip. 11. Locate choke control bracket assembly in position, install and tighten retaining screws. THROTTLE BODY
1. If the throttle shaft and throttle valve were remoyed, fit the pump floating lever to the throttle shaft and slide the throttle shaft into the throttle body, with the pump floating lever positioned so that it will, when assembled, make contact with the pump rod fitted in the main body of the carburettor. Refer to the line previously scribed on the throttie valve and insert the valve through the slot in the throttle shaft. The valve Indentation must face the top of the body and be on the idle mixture adjusting screw side Qf the throttle shaft. Install the throttle valve screws snug, but not tight. Check that the throttle-leverlocating shoulders on the threaped end of the throttle shaft are proud of the tHrottle body boss. Rotate the throttle shaft while lightly tapping the throttle valve within the throttle bore. Check for free rotation of the throttle shaft Hold tne throttle body up to the light Little or no light should show between the throttle valve and throttle
bore. When the valve Is croperly located, hold the valve closed; then tighten and stake the retaining screws, support the shaft and plate on a block of wood or a metal bar to prevent bending of the shaft. 2. Install the throttle lever, lockwasher and nut on the throttle shaft. 3. Install the idle needle valve and spring in the throttle body if removed. MAIN BODY TO THROTTLE. BODY ASSEMBLY
1. Place a new gasket in position on the throttle body and fit the main body to throttle body. Z. Install tighten.
retaining
screws
and
3. Hook one end of throttle return spring in hole of throttle lever and locate other end in hole in choke control bracket assembly.
AIR HORN TO MAIN BODY ASSEMBLY
1. Replace the air horn In position on the main body. Hold the reinforcing bar in position, Install and tighten air horn retaining screws. note that two longer screws are used to retain the reinforcing bar. Z. Replace the choke link and install the retaining clip.
CARIURmOR INSTALLATION 1. Cle~~:n the gasket surface of the ca.rburettor and intake manifold. Place a new gasket on the manifold and position the carburettor on the manifold. 2. Connect the fuel line and distributor vacuum line.
3. Install the carburettor lockwashers and retaining nuts and tighten. 4. Fit the accelerator linkage, return spring and choke cable. 5. Adjust the engine idle speed, idle fuel mixture and choke operation as described under 'Invehicle Adjustments and Repairs' in this section. Install the air cleaner (page 10-67)
Note: Extreme care must be taken with the idle air/fuel mixture adjustment (page 10-18)
10-.23
PART
10-3
STROMBERG CARBURETTOR- WW SERIES 250C.I.D. 2 V- 302 C.I.D. ENGINES
Section 1 Description and Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Invehicle Adjustments and Repairs ........ Carburettor Adjustments ....... . ...... Idle Speed and Mixture Adjustment ...... Idle Limiter Cap Replacement ..........
D
10-23 10-23 10-24 10-28 10-28 10-29 10-31
Section 3 Major Repair Operations Carburettor Repairs . . . . Disassembly . . . . . . . . Inspection . . . . . . . . . . Assembly . . . . . . . . . . Final Assembly . . . . . .
.............. .............. .............. .............. .... .......... ..............
10-31 10-31 10-31 10-31 10-32 10-33
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
DESCRIPTION
In common with other WW series carburettors, these units are of the dual-barrel downdraught type with each barrel having its own Idle System, Main Metering System and Throttle Valve. The two barrels have a common Float System, Accelerating System and Power System. Each barrel is equipped with a main and an auxiliary Venturi (Choke Tube). The carburettors employ an automatic choke control situated in the throttle body, and activated by hot air delivered to the choke control through a pipe attached to the exhaust manifold. The float chamber is vented to atmosphere at closed throttle, (i.e. when idling or stopped) and to carburettor air inlet pressure, through a passage and vent tube in the air horn, at all other throttle positions. The vacuum connection for the distributor vacuum spark advance is located in the main body. A drilled passage through the main body meets a channel in the throttle body to transmit the vacuum from the vacuum spark hole (or holes) located in the throttle body. A steel connector for the positive crankcase ventilation hose is located in the carburettor throttle body.
GROUP 10-FUEL SYSTEM
10-24
FLOAT SYSTEM (Fig. 2)
OPERATION
IOU DISCHARGE HOU5
IDLE SYSTEM (Figs. 2 and 3) Identical idle systems supply each barrel with the correctly proportioned fuel/air mixture required for idling operation.
FIG. 1 -
3/4 Left Rear View
Fuel enters the carburettor at the fuel inlet, flowing through the float needle valve and seat into the float chamber. When the fuel reaches a predetermined level, the float shuts off the fuel supply by closing the needle valve against its seat.
The throttle valves are held open to the correct slow-idle position by the slow idle adjustment screw. By turning this screw the throttle valve opening is varied . thereby controlling the amount of air entering the engine and regulating the idle speed . (A single barrel only will be considered in the following explanation).
The needle valve is equipped with a viton rubber tip to provide increased service life and greater tolerance of any dirt particles that may enter with the fuel. As previously mentioned, the float chamber is vented internally through a passage and vent tube whenever the engine is running above idle speed. (Internal venting ensures that any reduction of air pressure in the air horn, due to a restricted air cleaner, is balanced by a similar reduction in the air pressure acting on the fuel in the float chamber. The fuel/air mixture ratio will therefore remain unchanged under these conditions). When the engine is stopped or whilst idling, the float chamber is vented to atmosphere via the opening in the air horn, through which the accelerating pump piston stem passes. This opening is normally closed by a metal vent washer which is lifted clear of the vent orifice by a small pin in the pump piston stem as the throttles return to slow-idle position. The purpose of the external vent is to permit the escape uf fuel vapours formed in the float chamber under high temperature operating conditions. Additionally, the throttle body has two small vents, one in each barrel to permit the escape of fuel vapours which may accumulate in this area. (Refer Fig. 2.)
tOil DISCHARGE HOlES
FIG. 3 With the throttle valve closed to idle position, engine depression is concentrated on the idle discharge nozzle located below the throttle valve. Consequently, fuel flows from the base of the main discharge jet through the idle tube (Slow-Running Jet) where it is metered by a calibrated orifice in the base of the tube. The metered fuel mixes with air taken in through the idle air bleed, and the resulting fuel/air emulsion passes down the idle channel where it mixes with additional air passing through the secondary idle air bleed and through the two upper idle discharge holes. The mixture finally passes from the idle discharge nozzle into the air passing the partly open throttle.
10-25
PART 10-3-STROMBERG WW CARBURETTOR The quantity of mixture discharged through the nozzle is controlled by an adjustable idle needle valve. Turning this needle valve "IN" weakens the idle mixture and turning it "OUT" enriches the mixture. As the throttle valve is opened slightly, the upper idle discharge holes com(. under engine depression and supply the additional fuel required for increased engine speed.
MAIN METERING SYSTEM (Fig. 4) The main metering system supplements the idle system and provides the additional fuel required during the intermediate or part throttle range of operation. AUXIUAlY VINTUII TUII
FIG. 4
THROTTLI VAt. VI
FIG. 5
During idle and part throttle operation inlet manifold vacuum is sufficient to hold the vacuum piston "UP" against its spring. The power by-pass jet is closed and all mixture is supplied by the main metering and idle systems. When the throttle valves are opened beyond a certain point the manifold vacuum drops to a lower value than the spring force and the vacuum piston moves "DOWN" opening the power by-pass jet and allowing additional fuel to flow into the two main metering discharge systems.
TI«Oml VAt.VI
Each barrel is equipped with its own main metering system, the method of operation of the two systems being identical. (A single barrel only will be considered in the following explartation). With the throttle valve in a partially open position, air flow through the main and auxiliary venturis (choke tubes) produces a depression at the outlet of the main discharge jet. As a result, fuel flows from the float chamber through the main metering jet and into the main discharge jet where it mixes with air taken in through the high speed bleeder. This fuel/air emulsion then discharges into the air stream passing through the auxiliary and main venturis. POWER SYSTEM (Fig. 5) A common power system supplies each main metering discharge system with the additional fuel required for the development of maximum engine power. This additional fuel is provided by the action of a vacuum piston located in the air horn which automatically controls the opening of the power by-pass jet in accordance with throttle opening and engine load. Inlet manifold vacuum is maintained above the vacuum piston through a vacuum channel which leads to the mounting flange of the carburettor.
ACCELERATING SYSTEM (Figs. 6 and 7)
OUTlfT IIAU CHKK
10.001
II'.JN' JIISTON
FIG. 6
TI«
To ensure smooth acceleration, additional fuel must be supplied to the engine during the period of acceleration . This is achieved by the use of an accelerating pump which is operated by the throttle linkage. As the throttle valves are opened, the pump lever compresses the pump-piston-duration spring and the pump piston is forced down, creating a pressure which closes the inlet ball check valve, and forces a quantity of fuel through the outlet ball check valve and pump discharge nozzle (Fig. 6). The pump piston duration spring ensures the pump discharge is spread over a predetermined period of time .
GROUP 10- FUEL SYSTEM
10-26
11\JW OtS(HAIGI
'
NOUU
VAlV(
FIG. 7
When the accelerator pedal is released the pump piston is drawn up and the outlet ball check valve closes (preventing the entry of air into the pump system) whilst a fresh fuel charge is drawn in through the now open inlet ball check valve. The pump discharge nozzle is vented through the float chamber ve.nt tube to prevent Joss of fuel from the pump circuit at high ehgine-·speeds when a low depression is created at the nozzle outlet by the high air-flow through the carburettor.
AUTOMATIC CHOKE (Fig. 8) The automatic choke control is built integral with the carburettor throttle body. The control consists of a thermostat spring (I) activated by hot air drawn through a pipe from the exhaust manifold (302) ot cylinder head (250). The thermostat spring is connected to the offset choke valve (4) through the thermostat lever (2), choke rod (3) and choke lever (5). Other components of the choke system are the choke kick diaphragm (6) which is dCtuated by inlet manifold vacuum through a connecting tube and vacuum passage in the carburettor, and the fast idle mechanism (Fig. 9) which operates in conjunction with the automatic choke control to provide the correct fast idle speeds to prevent stalling during the engine warm-up period. An integral part of the choke lever is the choke modulation spring (7). This spring provides additional choke valve control as desc'ribed later in this section.
L_~_J
FIG. 8
fast idle stop screw away from the fast idle cam, allowing the cam to turn. The choke valve will then assume its closed position, which will vary according to the prevailing underbonnet temperature. With the choke fully closed, the fast idle stop screw is in contact with the highest step of the fast idle cam and the throttle valves are opened sufficiently for a cold start. CHOKE VALVE
CHOKE OPERATION CHOKE CLOSED - FAST IDLE - COLD ENGINE (Figs. 8 and 9) As the engine cools the thermostat spring also cools and, gaining tension, tends to rotate the choke valve towards the closed position. It is, however, unable to close the chpke valve until the throttle valves are opened sufficiently to move the '
When the engine fires, inlet manifold vacuum exerts a pull on the choke kick diaphragm which opens the choke valve a small amount against the thermostat spring tension to supply the necessary air for a weaker running mixture. Immediately
PART 10-3-STROMBERG WW CARBURETTOR following a start, the accelerator pedal is depressed and released to allow the fast idle cam to rotate and assume its normal fast idle position.
CHOKE PARTIALLY OPEN WARMING UP (Fig. 10)
ENGINE
10-27
CHOKE MODULATION SPRING (Fig. 8) The choke modulation spring (7) is an integral part of the choke lever (5) and provides additional choke valve control in the following manner. CHOKE IN WARM IDLE POSITION
As the engine warms, the amount the choke valve opens in excess of the diaphragm kick opening is governed by the balance of the forces of thermostat coil tension and air velocity. If the throttle opening is increased the increased air velocity against the offset choke valve causes the valve to open against the tension of the thermostat spring. Heat from the exhaust manifold or cylinder head gradually decreases the thermostat spring tension, allowing the choke valve to open progressively until it assumes its full open position when the engine is at normal d erating tern erature.
FIG. 11
FAST IDLE CAM
FIG. 10
During this warm up period, as the choke valve opens, the fast idle rod allows the unbalanced fast idle cam to rotate so that the fast idle stop screw rests on successively lower steps of the cam. The engine will therefore idle at progressively slower fast idle speeds until the next phase of operation is reached, namely :CHOKE OPEN - ENGINE WARM - SLOW IDLE (Fi2. 11) With the engine at normal operating temperature (choke valve wide open) the fast idle cam rotates to its fully released position with ~pace between the cam and the end of the fast idle stop screw. The throttle opening is now controlled entirely by the slow idle adjustment screw which is set to provide the normal specified slow idle speed.
When the engine is cold, the choke thermostat spring ( 1) exerts a closing force on the choke valve ( 4 ). The colder the temperature the greater is the closing force exerted . Immediately the engine fires , the choke kick diaphragm unit (6) endeavours to open the choke valve to prevent overrichness. Depending upon the engine temperature and the resulting thermostat spring force acting to close the choke valve, the modulation spring will deflect a varying amount, thereby altering the amount the choke valve is effectively opened. In cold temperatures the choke valve will be opened less than in warmer temperatures. WIDE OPEN KICK DEVICE
In cases where a cold engine does not start readily and becomes flooded, it is necessary to admit air to the engine to clean out the excess fuel before starting is possible . This is achieved with the WW series by opening the throttles wide when a projecting ear on the throttle lever contacts an extension on the fast idle cam forcing the cam to rotate and pulling open the choke valve against the thermostat spring tension. Further cranking of the engine with the throttle held wide open will clean ou t the manifold and allow the engine to start.
10-28
EJ
GROUP 10- FUEL SYSTEM
IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
The adjustments described and illustrated in this part should be performed as required to retain the desired engine performance characteristics. Refer to the specifications whenever carburettor adjustments are made. CARBURETTOR ADJUSTMENTS The following adjustments should be made in the sequence listed with the carburettor in situ on the engine with air cleaner removed (Part 10-7).
~------------------------------------------------,
FAST IDLE C
FAST IDLE SPEED AND CAM POSITION (Fig. 12)
SLOW IDLE ADJUSTMENT SCREW
FIG. 13
WIDE OPEN KICK (Fig. 14)
BEND EAR OF THROTTLE (As required)
FIG. 12
Turn out slow-idle adjustment screw (Fig. 13) far enough to clear throttle lever ear when the throttle valves are fully closed against their bores. Hold throttles in fully closed position and turn fast idle stop screw out until fast idle cam can be positioned with screw on second step of cam, as illustrated. From the point of initial contact with second step of cam, adjust to obtain correct fast idle R.P.M.
(In wide open position)
FIG. 14
VACUUM KICK (Fig. 15)
With fast idle stop screw on second step of cam as illustrated in Fig. 12, apply light closing pressure to choke valve to take up slack in linkage. Measure choke opening "G" with a drill shank. If opening is not 0.165", bend fast idle rod at point indicated to obtain correct setting. Apply light closing pressure to choke valve, then open throttle valves to wide open position. The choke valve should open just enough to allow the insertion of drill gauge "C" between the choke valve and wall of air hom. Bend ear on the throttle
Choke Link (Bend as required) Press and Hold Diaphragm at Its full limit of Travel
FIG. 15
lever as required to obtain correct opening of 0.250".
10-29
PART 10-3-STROMBERG WW CARBURETTOR Depress diaphragm pull rod to the full limit of its travel and apply light upward pressure to choke lever to take up slack in linkage and t<.. deflect the modulation spring so that the choke link is at the end of its slot in the choke lever. Hold in this position and check choke valvt> opening "D" with a drill gauge. If opening is not 0.140", bend choke link at point indicated to obtain correct setting. After bending link, ensure choke valve does not bind in any position. EXTERNAL VENT AND ACCELERATING PUMP STROKE (Fig. 16) With throttle valves fully closed agamst their bores (i.e. slow idle adjustment screw backed out clear of shut throttle lever-), and with pump rod in throttle lever hole specified, check the external vent washer, opening "J". Bend pump rod at point indicated to obtain specified opening.
THERMOSTAT LEVER POSITIONING (Fig. 18) Hold choke valve closed by applying light upward pressure on thermostat lever pick up ear in direction shown by arrow. The dimension "TL" measured from centre of upper right cover screw hole to thermostat lever pick up ear should be 1.094".
CHOKE ROO (Bend as required)
THERMOSTAT LEVER PICK-UP EAR
FIG. 18
If dimension is not as specified, adjust by bending choke rod at point indicated.
FIG. 16
NOTE: Make sure choke valve is held open dunng above check so that throttle valves can close fully. CHOKE MODULATION SPRING (Fig. 17) Spring must not rub on sides of spring guard after adjustment .
DRILL GAUGE "M" Must be perpendicular to lever.
\.
Adjust bY bending spring here.
FIG. 17
Insert drill gauge "M" in slot under choke modulation spring free end. With gauge at 'right angle to choke lever, spring should contact gauge. Adjust modulation spring tension by bending in area shown near clamped end of spring to obtain 0.030".
IDLE SPEED AND MIXTURE ADJUSTMENT. All Stromberg carburettors fitted to XA/ZF Falcon/Fairlane engines are equipped with limiter caps on .the idle mixture adjusting screws. The limiters control the maximum idle richness and help prevent unauthorised persons from making overly rich idle adjustments. Note: Carbon Monoxide emission at idle speed not to exceed 4.5%. The limiter cap fitted to the Stromberg carburettor is free turning on the head of the idle mixture adjusting screw , therefore THE ONLY IDLE ADJUSTMENT ALLOWABLE IN NORMAL SERVICE IS THE ENGINE IDLE SPEED. A satisfactory idle should be obtained, providing all other engine systems are operating within specifications. I. Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached. 2. Attach a tachometer to the engine. 3. Turn on the headlamps to place the alternator under load and turn on the air conditioner if so equipped. 4. On a car with manual transmission the engine idle speed is checked and adjusted with the gearshift lever in neutral position. On an automatic transmission car the idle speed is first checked and adjusted with the transmission selector lever in the neutral position and again with the lever in the drive range position.
10-30
GROUP 10-FUEL SYSTEM
<¥"30
Parts Illustrated are typical In appearance and may not look exactly like the part required.
FIG. 20
PART 10-3-STROMBERG WW CARBURETTOR 5. Adjust the engine idle speed to specification by turning the engine idle speed screw (Fig. 13) inward or outward. 6. Remove the tachometer from the engine and turn the headlights and airconditioner off. IDLE LIMITER CAPS Should the idle limiter caps need replacement because of deformation, mutilation or readjustment of idling mixture to meet emission level requirements, the following pracedure must be adhered to as the 'thermal conductivity' type of gas analyzer found in most service shops is not accurate enough to give the required carbon monoxide readings. 1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Cut the plastic limiter cap and carefully pry apart and remove it from the idle adjustment screw. 3. Replace the air cleaner.
EJ
10-31
4. Set the ignition timing to specification. 5. Attach an accurate tachometer to the engine. 6. Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached. 7. Adjust the idle air/fuel mixture screws to give the best quality idle at 20 R .P.M. above the specified idle speed . 8. Lean off the idle air/fuel mixture screws an equal amount on each screw by turning in a clockwise direction until the engine R.P.M. drops to the specified idle speed. 9. Remove the air cleaner. 10. Carefully install the black service limiter caps on the head of each idle mixture adjusting screw. Use a straight thumb push or the end of 3/8" rod. 11. Replace the air cleaner and check the idle speed to ensure that the mixture screws were not accidently rotated while fitting the limiter caps. 12. Remove the tachometer from the engine.
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS
CARBURETIOR REPAIRS Clean exterior of carburettor to facilitate handling and disassembly. Cleanliness of hands, bench and tools is essential for efficient carburettor servicing. Separate the carburettor into its three basic sub-assemblies, namely - Air Horn, Main Body and Throttle Body. Disassemble each sub-assembly into its component parts, using the following special tools in addition to normal workshop tools. Stromberg Tool Part No. 73605 - for bending float lever when adjusting the float level. Stromberg Tool Part No. 73606 - for removal and replacement of main metering jets (Item 32, Fig. 20). Stromberg Tool Part No. 73608- for removal and replacement of the main discharge jets (Item 31, Fig. 20). NOTE: Unless damage is evident or suspected the main discharge jets should not be disturbed. DISASSEMBLY The throttle valves in the open position extend below the throttle body flange. Care should be exercised to avoid damaging the valves or changing their position in the throttle bores. It is recommended that a suitable holding fixture be ·made up and used when servicing these units.
AIR HORN (Fig. 20) Remove vacuum power piston ( 19) using a block of wood and small open end wrench as a pry.
This item is staked in position. NOTE: The pump lever fulcrum screw ( 12) has a left hand thread. Choke valve securing screws (7) are staked in their shafts. When removing choke valve (8) file off flared end of screws before unscrewing. MAIN BODY (Fig. 20) The idle tubes (26) are removed by lifting out of their recesses in main body. When pump pistoa (70) is removed place palm of hand over pump cylinder and invert main body to remove pump inlet check ball ( 65) from cylinder. Place hand over float chamber when removing spring clip (63) to prevent possible Injury from flying clip. After pump nozzle (21) is removed, invert main body and catch outlet check ball (23) as it drops from channel. THROTTLE BODY (Fig. 20) NOTE: Because of the very accurate production fit, the throttle shaft and valves should not be removed unless excessive wear is evident. Throttle valve securing screws ( 41) are staked in their shaft. If removing valves, file off flared end of screws before unscrewing. INSPECTION Having disassembled each sub-assembly, thoroughly clean all castings and metal parts in a suitable cleaning solvent and blow out all passages and tubes with compressed air. Inspect castings for
10-32
GROUP 10- FUEL SYSTEM
damage, excessive wear, burrs and warpage. Make certain the throttle body is free of all hard carbon deposits. Clean all jets and main discharge jets (if removed) by washing in cleaning solvent and blowing through with air. Do not clean or size these parts with drills or wires as such treatment will affect their metering characteristics. Discard all old gaskets and washers and use a new Gasket Set when assembling. Genuine Repair Kits are available and contain all components required for a normal overhaul. ASSEMBLY
Re-assembly each sub-assembly replacing all components exhibiting damage or excessive wear. PartiCular attention should be paid to the following points. AIR HORN (Fig. 20) Vacuum piston (19) is staked in place after installation. Check the piston for free movement in its cylinder. Do not lubricate piston or cylinder bore. Before tightening choke valve securing screws (7) close valve and check for proper valve fit against a light. Stake hollow ends of securing screws after tightening. The choke shaft (6) should be supported during this operation to prevent bending of the shaft. After air horn is assembled, check free movement of choke valve and shaft as shaft assembly is moved from its open to closed position. MAIN BODY (Fig. 20) If main discharge jets (31) have been removed , install each jet with the bevelled side of the jet tip parallel to the sides of the small auxiliary venturi . (Use Stromberg Tool 73608 when installing). Replace main metering jets (32) using Stromberg Tool 73606. Screw jets home firmly but avo.id overti'ghtening as damage to the main discharge jets may occur. Pump inlet check ball ( 65) fits in a central seat located in bottom of pump piston cylinder. Pump outlet check ball (23) drops into channel under pump nozzle screw (20). Assemble float fulcrum pin (62) in float lever and install float in float chamber. Place ends of fulcrum pin spring (63) against ledges in float chamber and press loop of spring under boss to secure spring.
FIG. 21
SETIING FLOAT LEVEL (Fig. 21) With main body held in an inverted position and with only weight of float holding float needle valve shut, the float level "X" is measured from main body (gasket removed) to centre of float using Stromberg float gauge No. 73725 or a depth gauge. (Refer to the Specification Listing for the correct float level dimension "X"). To adjust float level, bend float lever next to float using Stromberg Tool 73605. Hold lip of float lever away from needle valve when bending float lever to avoid damaging the rubber needle tip. After float setting is made, turn carburettor to upright position, install idle tubes (26) and place pump inlet check ball (65) on its seat in bottom of pump cylinder. Assemble pump bottom spring (66) on pump piston and install pump piston in its cylinder, making certain that piston leather is not creased and that it bears evenly on its complete circumference. (Apply a few drops of light engine oil to the piston leather before installing). THROTTLE BODY (Fig. 20) If the throttle shaft was removed, insert throttle shaft in throttle body and assemble throttle valves in same position and barrel that valves were removed from, leaving securing screws (41) loose. Close throttle lever and check valves for J?est closing against a light before tightening screws. After tightening, the hollow screw ends should be staked. Support throttle shaft and valves during this operation to prevent bending of shaft. Install idle needle valves (45) and springs (44). Tum each needle valve in lightly against its seat, then back out each valve one and a. half turns. Install thermostat lever & shaft (51). Assemble
PART 10-3-STROMBERG W W CARBURETTOR lever (50) on end of shaft and replace lockwasher and nut. Tighten nut. Install slow idle stop s~.:rew (38) and spring (37) also assemble fast idle screw (39) if removed. THERMOSTAT COVER ASSEMBLY AND ADJUSTMENT Do not install thermostat cover (55) until the Thermostat Lever Positioning Setting "TL'' has been completed. A new gasket (54) should then be placed on the thermostat cover and the cover assembled on its housing with hook of the thermostat spring "DOWN". Rotate cover counter-clockwise and set indicator mark on cover as specified in the Specification Listing. Replace and tighten screws (53) and lug washers (52). FINAL ASSEMBLY (Fig.20)
Place air hom gasket (10) on main body. Carefully guide air hom over pump piston stem, align holes in air hom (9), gasket (I 0) and main body, tlren replace and tighten air hom attaching screws (5). NOTE: Hold air hom in exact vertical position when assembling to avoid possibility of the vacuum piston stem ( 19) becoming wedged between the
10-33
power by-pass jet (24) and the main body, and to ensure the upper ends of the idle tubes (26) engage in their passages in the air hom. Invert carburettor and place main body gasket (35) on main body. Place throttle body (36) on gasket, align holes, and install and tighten the attaching screws (46 & 47). Install keyed end of fast idle rod (29) to lever ( 11) and insert opposite end of rod in slot of fast idfe cam. Secure with retainer clip (28) assembling straight side of clip in the rod hole. Place vent washer (71) over stem of pump piston (70) and attach pump stem to pump lever (15) with cotter pin (18). Secure pump lever to air hom with fulcrum screw (16) (L.H. Thread). Assemble upper end of pump rod (17) to pump lever (15) and install lower end of pump rod in hole of throttle lever. Replace cotter pins (18). Assemble keyed end of choke rod (59) in thermostat shaft lever (50) and install opposite end of rod in choke lever using cotter pin ( 60). Assemble bracket (74) complete with dashpot (76) under heads of securing screws (75).
10-34
PART 10·4
MOTORCRAFT MODEL 2100-D 2V CARBURETTOR
Section 1 Description and Operation ............................................. 2 Common Adjustments & Repairs ................................... Idle Speed Adjustment... ................................................. Idle Limiter Cap Replacement......................................... 3 Major Repairs Operations................................................
D
10-34 10-38 10-38 10-40 10-43
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
DESCRIPTION
AUTOMATIC E
The Motorcraft Model 21 00-D 2- V carburettor (Figs. 1, and 2) has two main assemblies, the air hom and the main body. The air hom assembly, which serves as the main body cover, contains the choke plate, choke diaphragtn assembly and the internal vents for the fuel bowl. The throttle plate, the accelerating pump assembly, the power valve assembly, and the fuel bowl are in the main body. The automatic choke housing is attached to the main body. Each bore contains a main and booster venturi, main fuel discharge, accelerating pump discharge, idle fuel dis<;:harge and a throttle plate. The Motorcraft Model 21 00-D 2-V used on the 351-C engine has a unique two-piece fast idle lever and the crankcase emission hose connection is incorporated in the main body. OPERATION
FUEL INLET SYSTEM The amount of fuel entering the fuel bowl (Fig. 3) is regulated by the distance the fuel inlet needle is raised off its seat and by fuel pump pressure. Movement of the fuel inlet needle in relation to the seat is controlled by the float and lever assembly which rises and falls with the fuel level. When the fuel in the fuel bowl reaches a pre-set level, the float low-
ACCELERATING PUMP ASSEMBLY
V120~A
FIG. 1 - Motorcraft Modei210Q-D, 2· V Carburetor- Left Front 3/4 View typical
ers the fuel inlet needle to a position where it restricts the flow of fuel, admitting only enough fuel to replace that being used. An integral retaining clip is attached to the fuel inlet needle assembly. The clip hooks over the tab on
the end of the lever of the float assembly. This clip assures reaction of the fuel inlet needle to any downward movement of the float. A wire-type retainer prevents movement of the float shaft within
PART 10-4- MOTORCRAFT MODEL 2100 CARBURETTOR INTERNAL BOWL VENTS
CHOKE PLATE
CHOKE OIAPHRAGM ASSEMBLY
CHOKE HEAT TUBE CONN ECTION
CURB IOL E AOJU STIN G SCREW V1200-A
FIG. 2- Motorcraft Modei2100-D, 2- V Carburetor - Left Rear 3/4 View - Typical
. . FUEL
82598-A
FIG. 3-Fuel Inlet System the guides on each side of the fuel bowl. The retainer fits into a groove on the outside of the fuel inlet nee-
die seat. The ends of the retainer are hooked over grooves on opposite ends of the float shaft.
10-35
The fuel bowl is internally vented into the air cleaner. It is also externally vented to the atmosphere. AUTOMATIC CHOKE SYSTEM The choke plate, located in the air horn above the barrels, when closed, provides a high vacuum above as well as below the throttle plates. With a vacuum above the throttle plates, fuel will flow from the main fuel system as well as from the idle fuel system. This provides the extremely rich fuel mixture necessary for cold engine operation. The carburettor choke shaft is linked to a thermostatic choke control mechanism mounted on the main body (Fig. 4). The linkage between the choke lever and the throttle shaft is designed so that the choke plate will partially open when the accelerator pedal is fully depressed. This permits unloading of a flooded engine. The automatic choke is equipped with a bimetal thermostatic spring and a vacuum piston (Fig. 4). The bimetal thermostatic spring mechanism winds up when cold and unwinds when warm. When the engine is cold, the thermostatic spring, through attaching linkage, holds the choke piston upward and the choke plate in a closed position prior to engine start. Manifold vacuum channeled through a passage in the choke control housing draws the choke vacuum piston downward, exerting an opening force on the choke plate. When the engine is started, manifold vacuum, acting directly on the piston located in the choke housing, immediately moves the choke plate against the tension of the thermostatic spring to a partially open position to prevent stalling. As the engine continues to operate, manifold vacuum draws heated air from the inlet manifold heat chamber. The amount of air entering the choke housing is controlled by restrictions in the air passages in the carburet tor. The warmed air enters the choke housing and heats the thermostatic spring, causing it to unwind. The tension of the thermostatic spring gradually decreases as the temperature of the air from the heat chamber rises, allowing the choke plate to open. The air is exhausted into the intake manifold. When the engine reaches its normal operating temperature, the thermostatic spring exerts tension on the
10-36
GROUP 10- FUEL SYSTEM so that the choke plate will partially open when the accelerator pedal is fully depressed. This permits unloading of a flooded engine.
THERMOSTATIC SPRING CHOKE HOUSING
PISTON AND LEVER ASSEMBLY ¢:JcLEAN AIR
~HEATED
AIR
~VACUUM
B2599·A
FIG. 4-Automatic Choke System choke plate forcing it to the full open position. In this position, thr choke piston is at its lowest point in the cylinder. Slots in the piston chamber wall allow sufficient air to bleed past the piston and into the intake manifold, causing a continual flow of warm air to pass through the thermostatic spring housing. The spring remains heated and the choke plate remains fully open until the engine is stopped and allowed to cool. The choke rod actuates the fast idle cam during choking. Steps on the edge of the fast idle cam contact the fast idle adjusting screw. This permits a faster engine idle speed for smoother running when the engine is cold. As the choke plate is moved through its range of travel from the closed to the open position, the choke rod rotates the fast idle cam. Each step on the fast idle cam permits a slower idle rpm as engine temperature rises and choking is reduced. During the warm-up period, if the engine should reach the stall point due to a lean mixture, manifold vacuum will drop considerably. The tension of the thermostatic spring then overcomes the lowered vacuum acting on the choke piston and the choke plate is moved toward the closed position, providing a richer mixture to help prevent stalling.
The linkage between the choke lever and the throttle shaft is designed
IDLE FUEL SYSTEM The difference in pressure between the fuel bowl and the idle discharge port forces fuel through the idle fuel system. Fuel flows from the fuel bowl through the main jet and into the bottom of the main well (Fig. 5). From the main well, the fuel flows up through the idle tube and through a short diagonal passage in the booster venturi assembly into the idle passage in the main body. A calibrated restriction, at the upper tip of the idle tube, meters the flow of fuel. Air enters the idle system from the air bleed, located directly above the idle tube. The air bleed also acts as a vent to prevent siphoning at off idle or high speeds and when the engine is stopped. Additional air is bled into the system through an air bleed located at the bottom of the diagonal passage in the booster venturi wh"re the fuel enters the idle passage in the main body. Fuel flows down the idle passage in the main body past three idle transfer holes. The idle transfer holes act as additional air bleeds at curb idle. The
IDLE DISCHARGE
Q
AIR
•
FUEL·AI R
. . FUEL
B2600.A
FIG. 5-ldle Fuel System
PART 10-4 MOTORCRAFT MODEL 2100 CARBURETTOR
fuel then flows past the pointed tip of the adjusting needle which controls the idle fuel discharge. From the adjusting needle chamber, the fuel flows through a short horizontal passage and is discharged below the throttle plates. During off idle when the throt\le plate is moved slightly past the idle transfer holes, each hole begins discharging fuel as it is exposed to manifold vacuum. As the throttle plate is opened still wider and engine speed increases, the air flow through the carburetor is also increased. This creates a vacuum in the booster venturi strong enough to bring the main fuel system into operation. Fuel flow from the idle fuel system tapers off as the main fuel system begins discharging fuel. ACCELERATING SYSTEM Upon acceleration, the air flow through the carburettor responds almost immediately to the increased throttle opening. There is, however, a brief interval before the flowing fuel, which is heavier than air, can gain the required flow speed to maintain the desired balance of fuel and air. During the interval, the accelerating system (Fig. 6) supplies fuel until the other systems can once again provide the proper mixture. When the throttle is closed, the diaphragm return spring forces the diaphragm toward the cover, drawing fuel into the chamber through the inlet. The inlet has an Elastomer valve which uncovers the inlet hole to admit fuel from the fuel bowl. The valve covers the inlet hole when the accelerating pump is operated to prevent the fuel from returning to the bowl. A discharge weight and ball check prevents air from entering the discharge nozzle when fuel is drawn into the diaphragm chamber. When the throttle is opened, the diaphragm rod is forced inward, forcing fuel from the chamber into the discharge passage. Fuel under pressure forces the pump discharge weight and ball off their seat and fuel passes through the accelerating pump discharge screw and is sprayed into each main venturi through discharge ports . . An air bleed in the wall of the accelerating pump fuel chamber prevents vapor entrapment and pressure build-up in the diaphragm chamber.
10-37
PRIMAR Y FUEL BOWL
PUMP DISCHARGE NOZZLE
PUMP DISCHARGE WEIGHT
BALL CHECK PUMP DISCHARGE . . FUEL
82601-A
FIG. 6-Accelerating Pump System ¢=l AIR
¢:::::1 FUEL -AIR . . . FUEL
4pm
VACUUM
HIGH SPEED AIR BLEED
ANTI-SIPHON AIR BLEED
MAIN WELL TUBE
MAIN WELL
FIG. 7-Main Fuel System
62602 - A
GROUP 10- FUEL SYSTEM
10-38 MAIN FUEL SYSTEM As engine speed increases, the air passing through the booster venturi creates a vacuum. The amount of vacuum is determined by the air flow through the venturi, which in turn is regulated by the speed of the engine. The difference in pressure between the main discharge port and the fuel bowl causes fuel to flow through the maio fuel system (Fig. 7). At a predetermined venturi vacuum, fuel flows from the fuel bowl, through the maio jets, and into the bottom of the main well. The fuel moves up the main well tube past air bleed holes. Filtered air from the high speed air bleed enters the fuel flow in the main well tube through holes in the side of the tube . The high speed air bleed meters an increasing amount of air to the fuel as venturi vacuum increases, maintaining the re· quired fuel-air ratio. The mixture of fuel and air is lighter than raw fuel and responds faster to changes in venturi vacuum. It also atomizes more readily tha-n raw fuel. The fuel an. i air continue up the main well tube past another air bleed which also acts as a vent to prevent siphoning when the engine is shut down. The fuel is discharged into the boost· er venturi where it is atomized and mixed with air flowing through the carburettor. The throttle plate controls the amount of the fuel-air mixture admi_tted to the intake manifold, regulatmg the speed and power output of the engine. A balance tube is located in each barrel directly below the booster venturi. When decelerating, the balance tube siphons off any excess fuel droplets remaining around the edge of the booster venturi and discharges the droplets into the equalizing slots in the base of the carburetor where they are mixed with the idle fuel. The balance tube also acts as an addi-
EJ
<;::J
AIR
<;:::J
FUEL- AIR
. . FUEL
VACUUM POWER VALVE VACUUM PICK-UP
82603-A
FIG. 8-Power Fuel System tiona) air bleed during the idle fuel system operation.
POWER FUEL SYSTEM During periods of increased road loads or high speed operation, the fuel-air ratio must be increased for added power. The added fuel required during this period is supplied by the power fuel system (Fig. 8). The power fuel system is controlled by the intake manifold vacuum. Manifold vacuum is transmitted from an opening in the base of the main body, through a passage in the main body and power valve chamber to the power valve diaphragm. The manifold vacuum, acting on the power valve at idle speed or normal road
load conditions, is great enough to hold the power valve diaphragm down, overcoming the tension of the spring on the valve stem and holding the valve closed. When high power operation places a greater load on the engine and manifold vacuum drops below a predetermined value, the spring opens the power valve. Fuel from the fuel bowl flows through the power valve and into passages leading to the maio fuel well. Here the fuel is added to the fuel from the main fuel system, en· riching the mixture. As engine power demands are re· duced, manifold vacuum increases. The increased vacuum overcomes the tension of the valve_stem spring and closes the power valve.
IN CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
CARBU!tETTOR ADJUSTMENTS
The adjustments described and illu strated in this part should be performed JS required to retain the desired engine performance characteristics. Refer to the specifications whenever carburettor adjustments are made. IDLE SPEED AND FUEL MIXTURE
All carburettors are equipped with idle fuel mixture adjusting limiters. The limiters control the maximum idle richness Jnd help prevent unauthorized persons from making overly ri<.:h idle adjustment. The plastic idle limiter cap is installed on the head of the idle fuel mixture adjusting screws), (Fig. 9). Any adjustment made on carburettors having this type of limiter must be within the
runge of the idle adjusting limiter. Under no circumstances are the idle adjusting limiters or the limiter stops on the carburettor to be mutilated or deformed to render the limiters inoperative On the Motorcraft Model 2100-D 2-V carburettor, the power valve cover must be installed with the limiter stops on the cover in position to provide a positive stop for tabs on the idle adjusting limiters (Fig. 9).
PART 10-4 MOTORCRAFT MODEL 2100 CARBURETTOR A satisfactory idle should be obtainable within the range of the idle adjusting limiters, if all other engine systems are operating within specifications. At pre-delivery, follow the Normal Idle Fuel Settings for both Engine Off and Engine On and in Step 1 of Additional Idle Speed and Fuel Mixture Procedures. Other fuel system adjustments should not be required at pre-delivery service. Following are the normal procedures necessary to properly adjust the engine idle speed and fuel mixture. The specific operations should be followed in the sequence given whenever the idle speed or idle full adjustments are made. In isolated cases, a satisfactory idle condition may not be achieved by performing' the normal procedures. If this occurs, refer to Additional Idle Speed and Fuel Mixture Procedures. NORMAL IDLE FUEL SETTINGS - ENGINE OFF 1. Set the idle fuel mixture screw(s) and limiter cap(s) to the full-counterclockwise position of the limiter cap(s). 2. Back off the curb idle speed adjusting screw (Fig. 10) until the throttle plate(s) seat in the throttle bore(s}. 3. Be sure the dashpot or solenoid throttle positioner (if so equipped) is not interfering with the throttle lever (Fig. 11). It may be necessary to loosen the dashpot or solenoid to allow the throttle plate(s) to seat in the throttle bore(s). 4. Turn the idle speed adjusting screw inward until it just makes contact with the screw stop on the thottle shaft and lever assembly. Then, turn the screw inward I 1/2 turns to establish a preliminary idle speed adjustment (Fig. I 0). 5. Set the parking brake while making idle mixture and speed adjustments.
LIMITER STOPS
83114-A
FIG. 9- Motorcraft Modei21DO-D 2-V Idle Fuel Mixture Adjusting Limiters Stops-Bottom
10-39
NORMAL IDLE FUEL SETTINGS - ENGINE ON 1. The engine and underhood temperatures must be stabilized before idle adjustments are made. Run the engine a minimum of 20 minutes at 1500rpm.
This can be done by pos1t10mng the fast idle screw or cam follower on the kickdown step of the fast idle cam (Fig. 12). 2. Check the initial ignition timing and the di;tributor advance. Use an accurate-reading tachometer and timing light when checking the initial ignition timing and idle fuel mixture and speed. 3. On vehicles with a manual-shift transmission, the idle setting must be made only when the transmission is in Neutral. On vehicles with an automatic transmisSion, the idle setting is made with the transmission selector lever in the Drive range.
FIG. 10- Curb Idle Speed Adjusting Screw
4. Be sure the choke plate is in the full-open position. 5. Turn the headlights on high beam to place the alternator under a load condition in order to properly adjust to the specified engine idle speed. 6. The final idle speed adjustment is made with the air conditioner (if equipped) turned ON. 7. Adjust the engine curb idle rpm to specifications. The tachometer reading (rpm) must be taken with the air cleaner installed. On vehicles with less than 50 miles, ~et the idle speed approximately 25 rpm below specifications to allow for an rpm increase as the engine loosens up in the first 100 miles of driving. If it is not possible to adjust the idle speed with the air cleaner installed; remove it, make the adjustment, then replace the air cleaner and check again for the specified rpm. Manual transmission vehicles may be fitted with a solenoid throttle positioner. However this is not connected on these engines and must be adjusted so as not to affect the engine idle speed. Idle speed adjustment is to be made on the normal throttle stop screw. 8. Turn the idle mixture adjusting screw(s) inward an equal amount to obtain the smoothest idle possible within the
OASHPOT LOCKNUT
83134 - A
FIG.tt- Dashpot - Typical Installation
range of the idle limiter(s}. Check for idle smoothness only with the air cleaner installed. ADDITIONAL IDLE SPEED AND FUEL MIXTURE PROCEDURES If satisfactory idle condition is not obtained after performing the preceding normal idle fuel settings, additional checks of engine systems must be performed. 1. The following items should be checked and, if required, corrected. a. Vacuum leaks b. Ignition system wiring continuity c. Spark plugs d. Distributor breaker point dwell angle e. Distributor point condition f. Initial ignition timing In certain instances, it may be possible that the idle condition is not as good as normally expected. It is suggested that the customer with a new vehicle be advised that the vehicle be driven 50 to I 00 miles. Then, when the engine friction has been reduced, the idle condition should be improved. If, after the break-in period, the idle condition is believed to be unsatisfactory, re-adjust the engine idle speed to specification and observe for a satisfactory idle. 2. If the idle condition is not improved after the items in Step 1 have been checked, perform the following engine mechanical checks: a. Fuel Level b. Crankcase ventilation system c. Valve clearance (using the collapsed tappet method for hydraulic valves) d. Engine compression 3. After verification of all engine systems has been made. there may be isolated cases where a satisfactory idle condition has not been obtained, due possibly to a lean idle fuel mixture. If this condition is encountered, refer to the following operation REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF IDLE LIMITER CAPS.
10-40 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF IDLE LIMITER CAPS Should the idle limiter caps need replacement because of deformation, mutilation or readjustment of idle mixture to meet emission level requirements the following procedure must be adhered to as the 'thermal conductivity' type of gas analyzer found in most service shops is not accurate enough to give the required carbon monoxide readings. 1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Cut the plastic limiter cap and carefully pry apart and remove it from the idle adjustment screw. 3. Replace the air cleaner. 4. Set the ignition timing to specification. 5. Attach an accurate tachometer to the engine. 6. Run the engine until the normal operating temperature is reached. 7. Adjust the idle air/fuel mixture screws to give the best quality idle at 20 R.P.M. above the specified speed. B. Lean off the idle air/fuel mixture screws an equal amount on each screw by turning in a clockwise direction until the engine R.P.M. drops to the specified idle speed. 9. Remove the air cleaner. l 0. Install the blue plastic service limiter cap. Use care not to turn the idle mixture when installing the cap. Position the cap so that it is in the maximum counterclockwise position with the tab of the limiter against the stop on the carburetor. The idle mixture screw will then be at the maximum allowable outward or rich setting. To install the service limiter cap, use a straight forward push with thumb pressure or a 3/8" rod. 11. Replace the air cleaner and recheck the idle speed to ensure that the mixture screws were not accidently rotated while fitting the limiter caps. 12. Remove the tachometer from the engine. FAST IDLE ADJUSTMENT
The fast idle adjusting screw (Fig. 12) contacts one edge of the fast idle cam. The cam permits a faster engine idle speed for smoother running when the engine is cold during choke operation. As the choke plate is moved through its range of travel from the closed to the open position, the fast idle cam pick-up lever rotates the fast idle cam. Each position on the fast idle cam permits a slower idle rpm as engine temperature rises and choking is reduced.
GROUP 10-FUEL SYSTEM Make certain the curb idle speed and mixture are adjusted to specification before attempting to set the fast idle speed. 1. With the engine operating temperature normalized (hot), air cleaner removed and the tachometer attached, manually rotate the fast idle cam until the fast idle adjusting screw rests on the specified step on the cam. 2. Turn the fast idle adjusting screw inward or outward as required to obtain the specified fast idle rpm.
ANTI-STALL DASHPOT
1. With the engine idle speed and mixture properly adjusted, and the engine at normal operating temperature, loosen the anti-stall dashpot Jock nut. 2. Hold the throttle in the closed position and depress the plunger with a screwdriver blade. Measure the clearance between the throttle lever and the plunger tip. Turn the anti-stall dashpot in a direction to provide the specified clearance between the tip of the plunger and the throttle lever. Tighten the locknut to secure the adjustment. AUTOMATIC CHOKE THERMOSTATIC SPRING HOUSING ADJUSTMENT
The automatic choke has an adjustment to control its reaction to engine temperature. By loosening the clamp screws that retain the thermostatic spring housing to the choke housing. The spring housing can be turned to alter the adjustment. Refer to the specifications for the proper setting. 1. Remove the air cleaner assembly, heater hose and mounting bracket (if so equipped) from the carburettor. 2. Loosen the thermostatic spring housing clamp retaining screws. Set the spring housing to the specified index mark and tighten the clamp retaining screws. 3. If other carburettor adjustments are not required, install the heater hose and mounting bracket (if so equipped) and the air cleaner assembly on the carburettor. ACCELERATING PUMP STROKE ADJUSTMENT The stroke should not be changed from the specified setting. If the pump stroke has been changed from the specified setting refer to the following instructions to correct the stroke to specifications. The primary throttle shaft lever (overtravel lever) has 4 holes and the accelerating pump link has 4 holes (Fig. 13) to control the accelerating pump
FAST IDLE CAM B2S9S-A
FIG.12- Fast ldllt Speed AdjustmentModel 2100-D, 2· V
stroke. The accelerating pump operating rod should be in the specified hole in the overtravellever and the inboard hole (hole closets to the pump plunger) in the accelerating pump link (Fig. 13). 1. To release the rod from the retaining clip, press the tab end of the clip toward the rod; then, at the same time, press the rod away from the clip until it is disengaged. 2. Position the clip over the specified hole in the overtravel lever. Press the ends of the clip together and insert the operating rod through the clip and the overtravel lever. Release the clip to engage the rod.
CHOKEPLATEPULLDOWN AND FAST IDLE CAM CLEARANCE Choke Plate Pulldown
1. Remove the air cleaner,Page lo-67. 2. With the engine at normal operating temperature, loosen the choke thermostatic spring housing retainer screws and set the housing 90 degrees in the rich direction. 3. Disconnect and remove the choke heat tube from the choke housing 4. Turn the fast idle adjusting screw outward one full turn. 5. Start the engine, then check for the specified clearance between the lower edge of the choke plate and the air horn wall (Fig. 14). 6. If the clearance is not within specifications, turn the diaphragm stop screw (located on the underside of the choke diaphragm housing) clockwise to decrease or counterclockwise to increase the clearance.
PART 10-4 MOTORCRAFT MODEL 2100 CARBURETTOR
10-41
4. Set the choke thermo static spring housing to specifications. Adjust the anti-stall dashpo t, idle speed and fuel mixture.
OVERTRAVEL LEVER
FAST ADJUSTING TWO- PIECE FAST IDLE LEVER FOR 351-C ENGINE V1261-A
FIG. 15- Fast Idle Levers Used on the Motorcraft 2100-D 2-V Carburetor
FUEL LEVEL FLOAT ADJUSTMENT - DRY
V1507 - B
FIG. 13 Accelerator Pump Stroke-Model 2100 Carburetor
The dry float adjustment is a preliminary fuel level adjustment only. The final adjustment (Fuel Level Float Adjustment - Wet) must be made after the carburettor is mounted on the engine.
DRILL OR GA UGE OF SPECIFIED CLEARANCE
7. Connect the choke heat tube and set the choke thermostatic spring housing to specifications. Adjust the fast idle speed to specifications.
Fast Idle Cam Clearance I. Loosen the choke thermostatic spring housing retainer screws and set the housing 90 degrees in the rich direction. 2. Position the fast idle speed screw at the kickdown step of the fast idle cam The kickdown step is identified by a V stamped on the cam (Fig. 15). On the 351-C engine, a two-piece fast idle lever is used to provide clearance between the lever and manifold, and a tang on the top lever will align with the V mark on the cam (Fig. 15).
3. Be sure the cam is at the kickdown position while checking or adjusting the fast idle cam clearance. Check for the specified clearance between the lower edge of the choke plate and the air horn wall. To adjust the clearance, turn the fast idle cam clearance adjusting screw clockwise to increase and counterclockwise to decrease the clearance.
FAS T IDL E ADJUS T ING SC RE W
V1202-A
FIG. 14- Choke Plate Pul/down Clearance - Modei2100-D 2-V Carburetor
10-42
GROUP 10-FUEL SYSTEM
With the air born removed, the float raised and the fuel inlet needle seated, check the distance between the top surface of the main body (psket removed) and the top surface of the float for conformance to specifications. Depress the float tab to seat the fuel inlet needle. Take the measurement near the center of the float at a point 1/8 inch from the free end of the float. If the cardboard float g;tu8t is used, place the puge in t ..e comer of the enlarged end section of the fuel bowl (Fig. 16). The gauge should touch the float near the end, but not on the end radius. If necessary, bend the tab on the float to bring the setting within the specified limits. This should provide the proper preliminary fuel level setting.
The measurement must be made at least 1/4 inch away from any vertical surface to assure an accurate reading, because the surface of the fuel is concave (higher at the edges than in the centre). Care must be exercised to measure the fuel level at the point of contact with the float with the fuel. Refer to the specification• for the correct fuel level (wet) setting. 5. If any adjustment is required, stop the engine to minimize the hazard of the fire due to fuel spray when the float setting is disturbed. To adjust the fuel level, bend the float tab (contacting the fuel inlet valve) upward in relation to the original position to raise the fuel level, and downward to lower it. Each time an adjustment is made to the float tab to alter the fuel level, the engine must be started and permitted to idle for a few minutes to stabilize the fuel level. Check the fuel level after each adjustment until the specified level is achieved. 6. Install a new air horn gasket, the air horn assembly, carburettor identification tag and the retaining screws. Tighten the retaining screws. Install the air cleaner anchor screw and ·tighten to the specified torque. 7. Check the idle fuel mixture, idle speed adjustments and the carburettor dashpot adjustment (if so equipped). Adjust the carburettor as required. Install the air cleaner assembly.
3. Remove the automatic choke plate operating rod to choke lever retainer. 4. Remove the air horn retaining screws and lock washers, and the carburettor identification tag. Remove the air horn gasket.
INSTAlLATION I. Install a new air horn to main body gasket. Make sure all holes in the new gasket have been properly punched and that no foreign material has adhered to the gasket. 2. Position the air hom on the main body and gasket so that the choke plate operating rod fits into the opening in the choke housing lever. Install the choke plate rod retainer. 3. Install the air horn retaining screws and lock washers and the identification tag. Install the air cleaner anchor screw, and tighten to the specified torque. 4. Connect the automatic choke clean air tube to the carburettor. 5. Adjust the idle fuel mixture and idle speed and the dashpot as outlined in this section. 6. Install the carburettor air cleaner assembly. (Page 1 67 )
o-
FLOAT, NEEDLE VALVE AND SEAT. INLET SCREEN OR MAIN JETS
REMOVAL TOUCH AT TH IS POINT
1. Remove the carburettor air horn to main body gasket by following the procedure under Air Horn to Main Body Gasket Removal. 2. With the use of a screwdriver, pry the float shaft retainer(s) from the fuel inlet seat. Remove the float, float shaft retainer and fuel inlet needle assembly. 3. If required, remove the fuel inlet needle seat, filter screen and the main jets with a jet wrench. Be sure the correct (specified) jets are installed.
82590-A
FIG. 16 - Fuel Level Float Adjustment Dry
FUEL LEVEL FLOAT ADJUSTMENT- WET
I. ' 'peta te the engine to normalize engine te nperatures, and place the vehicle on a flat surface as near level as possible. Stop the engine. 2. Remove the carburettor air cleaner assembly and anchor screw, if they have not been previously removed. Page 10.
INSTALLATION
67 3. Remove the air horn retaining screws and the carlmrettor identification tag. Temporarily place the air horn and gasket in position on the carburertor main body and start the engine. Let the engine idle for a few minutes, then rotate the air horn out of the way and remove the air horn gasket to provide access to the float assembly. 4. While the engine is idling, use a standard depth scale to measure the vertical distance from the top machined surface of the carburet! or main body to the level of the fuel in the fuel bowl (Fig. 17).
FtG. 17 - Fuel Level Float AdjustmentWet
CARBURmOR REPAIRS AIR HORN TO MAIN BODY GASKET
REMOVAL I. Remove the air cleaner assembly. Remove the air cleaner anchor ~crew . 2. Disconnect the automatic choke clean air tube at the carburettor.
I. If R'quired , install the fuel inlet filter in the inlet valve seat bore. Install the valve seat and gasket. Install the fuel inlet needle valve. 2. Slide the float shaft into the float lever. Position the float shaft retainer on the float shaft. 3. Insert the float assembly into the fuel bowl and hook the float lever tab under the fuel inlet needle clip. Insert the float shaft into the guides at the sides of the fuel bowl. 4. With the use of a screwdriver, position the float shaft retainer on the
PART 10-4 MOTORCRAFT MODEL 2100 CARBURETTOR groove of the fuel inlet needle seat. 5. Refer to Float Adjustment - Dry, and perform a dry float fuel level adjustment on the float. 6. Install the carburettor air horn and gasket and related parts. Refer to Air Horn to Main Body Gasket Replacement. 7. Refer to Fuel Level Float Adjustment - Wet, and perform the wet fuel level adjustment procedures. 8. Adjust the idle fuel mixture and engine idle speed. ACCELERATING PUMP DIAPHRAGM AND/OR ELASTOMER VALVE
and place the cover and diaphragm assembly in position on the return spring and ~in body. The large end of the spring must face the Elastomer Yalve. ~DIAPHRAGM
•
-,.
LINK .__PIN
.,.__COVER
l. Remove the carburettor air horn to main body gasket following the procedure under Air Horn to Main Body Gasket Removal. 2. Remove the ac;:celerating pump operating rod retainer. To release the rod from the retainer, press the tab ends of the clip together, then, at the same time, press the rod away from the clip until it is disengaged. Remove the rod. Remove the accelerating pump cover, diaphragm assembly and spring. 3. If inspection proves it necessary to remove the Elastomer valve, grasp it firmly and pull it out. If the Elastomer valve tip broke off during removal, be sure to remove the tip from the fuel bowl. An Elastomer valve must be replaced whenever it is removed from the main body. INSTALLATION l. If the Elastomer valve was removed, lubricate the tip of a new valve and insert the tip into the accelerator pump cavity. Using needle nosed pliers, reach into the fuel bowl and grasp the valve tip. Pull the valve in until it seats, and cut off the tip forward of the retainer shoulder. Remove the tip from the bowl. 2. Position the new accelerating pump diaphragm assembly to the cover
EJ
CHOKE DIAPHRAGM ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL Remove the air cleaner. Remove the diaphragm cover attaching screws, then lift the cover, diaphragm assembly and spring from the air hom (Fig. 18). It will not be necessary to remove the diaphragm stop screw on the underside of the air hom. 3. Remove the diaphragm rod from the end of the lever. l. 2.
INSTALLATION
.....i...._ ~ASSEMBLY
DIAPHRAGM
REMOVAL
10-43
l. Position the diaphragm spring in the air horn. Place the cover on top of the diaphragm, then attach the diaphragm rod to the end of the lever. 2. Install the cover attaching screws and tighten to the specified torque. 3. Set the choke plate pulldown and fast idle cam clearance. 4. Tighten the air cleaner anchor screw to the specified torque to help provide a vacuum seal between the air hom and main body. The choke diaphragm vacuum passage is in the rear portion of the carburettor. 5. Install the air cleaner. POWER VALVE TEST
FIG. 18- Choke Diaphragm Assembly
Install the cover screws finger-tight. Push the accelerating pump plunger the full length of travel and tighten the cover screws. 3. Position the accelerating pump operating rod in the inboard hole (hole closest to the pump plunger). 4. Adjust the accelerating pump stroke to specification. 5. Install the carburettor air horn and gasket. Refer to the Air Horn to Main Body Gasket Replacement.
A power valve must not be replaced unless it is leaking sufficiently to cause an unadjustable rough engine idle condition. Fuel accumulation in the power valve cover does not necessarily indicate a damaged power valve. Fuel vapors will be drawn into the vacuum side of the power valve and condense during periods of deceleration. Leakage in the power valve area can be caused by an improperly tightened cover or damaged gaskets. Any gasket sealing deficiencies must be corrected before the power valve is replaced. If power valve leakage is suspected, carry out test procedure as detailed in (Page 10-6)
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS
CARBURETTOR REMOVAL Flooding, stumble on acceleration and other performance complaints are in many instances, caused by the presence of dirt, water or other foreign matter in the carburettor. To aid in diagnosing the cause of complaint, the carburettor should be carefully removed from the engine without removing the fuel from the bowls. The contents of the bowls may then be examined for contamination as the carburettor is disassembled. l. Remove the air cleaner as detailed on page 10-67. Remove the heater hose
from the choke shield (if so equipped). 2. Remove the throttle cable or rod from the throttle lever. Disconnect the distributor vacuum line, in-line fuel filter and the choke heat tube at the carburettor. 3. Disconnect the choke clean air tube from the air horn. 4. Remove the carburettor retaining nuts; then remove the carburettor. Remove the carburettor mounting gasket, spacer (if equipped) and lower gasket, from the intake manifold.
INSTALLATION 1. Clean the gasket mounting surfaces of the spacer and carburettor. Place the spacer between two new gaskets and position the spacer and gaskets on the intake manifold. Position the carburettor on the spacer and gasket and secure it with the retaining lockwashers and nuts. To prevent leakage, distortion or damage to the carburettor body flange, snug the nuts; then, alternately tighten each nut in a criss-cross pattern to the specified torque.
GROUP 10- FUEL SYSTEM
10-44 2. Connect the in-line fuel filter throttle cable, choke heat tube, and distributor vacuum line. Position the heater hose behind the choke shield. 3. Connect the choke clear air tube to the air horn. 4. Adjust the engine idle speed, the idle fuel mixture, anti-stall dashpot (if so equipped) and the accelerating pump stroke (if required). Install the air cleaner.
DISASSEMBLY To facilitate working on the carburettor and to prevent damage to the throttle plates, install carburettor legs on the base. If legs are unavailable, install 4 bolts (about 2 I /4 inches long of the correct diameter) and 8 nuts on the carburettor base. Use a separate container for the component parts of the various assemblies to facilitate cleaning, inspection and assembly. The following is a step-by-step sequence of operations for completely overhauling the carburettor. However, certain components of the carburettor may be serviced without a complete disassembly of the entire unit. For a complete carburettor overhaul, follow all of the steps. to partially overhaul a carburettor or to install a new gasket kit follow only the applicable steps. AIR HORN 1. screw.
rod from the air horn. Slide the plastic dust seal out of the air horn. 5. Remove the choke diaphragm assembly (Fig. 18). 6. If it is necessary to remove the choke plate, remove the staking marks on the choke plate retaining screws and remove the screws. Remove the choke plate by sliding it out of the shaft from the top of the air horn. Slide the choke shaft out of the air horn . If the tips of the choke plate screws are flared excessively, file off the flared portion to prevent damage to the threads in the shaft. FLOAT HINGE
82605-A
FIG. 20- Float Assembly
Remove the air cleaner anchor
2. Remove the automatic choke control rod retainer. 3. Remove the air horn retaining screws, lock washers and the carburettor identification tag. Remove the air horn and air horn gasket.
AUTOMATIC CHOKE
1. Remove the fast idle cam retainer (Fig. 19). 2. Remove the thermostatic choke spring housing retaining screws and remove the clamp, housing and gasket. 3. Remove the choke housing assembly retaining screws. If the air horn was not previously removed, remove the choke control rod retainer. Remove the choke housing assembly, gasket and fast idle cam and rod from the fast idle cam lever. 4. Remove the choke lever retaining screw and washer. Remove the choke lever and fast idle cam lever from the choke housing. MAIN BODY
FAST IDLE CAM
82621-A
FIG. 19 -Fast Idle Cam and Fast Idle Lever
4. Remove the choke control rod by loosening the screw that secures the choke shaft lever to the choke shaft. Remove the
1. With the use of a screwdriver, pry the float shaft retainer from the fuel inlet seal (Figs. 20 and 21). Remove the float float slpft retainer and fuel inlet needle assembly. Remove the retainer and float snaft from the float lever. 2. Remove the fuel inlet needle, seat, filter screen, and the main jets with a jet wrench. 3. Remove the booster venturi screw (accelerator pump di>charge) , air
FIG. 21 -Float Shaft Retainer Removal or Installation
distribution plate, booster venturi and gasket. Invert the main body and let the a.:celerating pump discharge weight and ball fall into the hand. 4. Remove the accelerator pump operating rod from the over-travel lever and the retainer. To release the operating rod from the over-travel lever retainer, press the ends of the retainer together; then, at the same time, press the rod away from the retainer until it is disengaged. Remove the rod and retainer. 5. Remove the accelerating pump cover retaining screws. Remove the accelerating pump cover, diaphragm assembly and spring (Fig. 22). 6. If it is necessary to remove the Elastomer valve, grasp it firmly and pull it out. If the Elastomer valve tip broke off during removal, be sure to remove the tip from the fuel bowl. An Elastomer valve must be replaced whenever it has been removed from the carburettor. 7. Invert the main body and remove the power valve cover and the gasket. Remove the power valve with a box wrench or socket wrench (Fig. 23). Remove the power valve gasket. Discard the gasket. 8. Remove the idle fuel mixture adjusting screws (needles) and the springs. Remove the limiters from the adjusting screws. 9. If necessary, remove the nut and washer securing the fast idle adjusting lever assembly to the throttle shaft, and remove the lever assembly. If necessary, remove the idle screw and the retainer from the fast idle adjusting lever. 10. Remove the anti-stall dashpot or solenoid (if so equipped). 11. If it is necessary to remove the throttle plates, lightly scribe the throttle plates along the throttle shaft, and mark each plate and its corresponding bore with a number or letter for proper installation (Fig. 24). 12. Slide the throttle shaft out of the main body. Clean and inspect the carburettor component parts as described in Page 10-13.
PART 10-4 MOTORCRAFT MODEL 2100 CARBURETTOR ASSEMBLY
Make sure all holes in the new gaskets have been properly punched and that no foreign material has adhered to the gaskets. Make sure the accelerating pump diaphragm is not torn or cut. The Motorcraft Model 2100-D 2-V carburettor assembly is shown in Fig. 25.
PUMP COVER AND L EVER RETURN SPRING
j
,~
MAIN BODY DIAPHRAGM
1. Slide the throttle shaft assembly into the main body. 2. Refer to the lines scribed on the throttle plates and install the throttle plates in their proper location with the screws snug, but not tight. 3. Close the throttle plates. Invert the main body, and hold it up to the light. Little or no light should show between the throttle plates and the throttle bores. Tap the plates lightly with a screwdriver handle to seat them. Hold the throttle plates closed and tighten and stake the retaining screws. When staking the screws, support the shaft and plate on a block of wood or a metal bar to prevent bending of the shaft. 4. If necessary, install the fast idle screw pin and the screw on the fast idle adjusting lever. 5. Install the anti-stall dashpot, if so equipped. 6. If the fast idle lever was removed, place the fast idle adjusting lever assembly on the throttle shaft and install the retaining washer and nut. 7. If the Elastomer valve was removed, lubricate the tip of a new Elastomer valve and insert the tip into the accelerator pump cavity centre hole. Using a pair of needle nosed pliers, reach in to the fuel bowl and grasp the valve tip. Pull the valve in until it seats in the pump cavity wall and cut off the tip forward of the retaining shoulder. Remove the tip from the bowl. 8. Install the accelerating pump diaphragm return spring on the boss in the chamber (Fig. 22). Insert the diaphragm assembly in the cover and place the cover and diaphragm assembly into position on the main body. Install the cover screws. 9. Insert the accelerating pump operating rod into the inboard hole of the accelerating pump actuating lever. Position the accelerating pump operating rod retainer over the specified hole in the over-travel lever, Press the ends of the retainer together ; then, at the same time, insert the operating rod through the retainer and the hole in the over-travel lever. Release the ends of the retainer to secure the rod. 10. Invert the main body. Install the power valve (enrichment valve) and new
V1296-A
FIG. 22- Accelerating Pump Assembly
10-45
14. Slide the float shaft into the float lever (Fig. 20). Position the float shaft retainer on the float shaft. 15 . Insert the float assembly into the fuel bowl and hook the float lever tab under the fuel inlet needle assembly. Insert the float shaft into its guides at the sides of the fuel bowl. 16. With the use of a screwdriver, position the float shaft retainer in the groove on the fuel inlet needle seat (Fig. 21 ). Check the float setting. 17 . Drop the accelerating pump discharge ball in to the passage in the main body. Seat the ball with a brass drift and a light hammer. Make sure the ball is free in the bore. Drop the accelerating pump discharge weight on top of the ball. Position the new booster venturi gasket and the booster venturi in the main body. Install the air distribution plate and the accelerator pump discharge screw. Tighten the screw. AUTOMATIC CHOKE
FIG. 23- Power Valve Removal or Installation
SCRIBE LINES AND IDENTIFICATION MARKS 81363-8
FIG. 24 - Throttle Plate Removal
gasket with a wrench (Fig. 23). Tighten the valve securely. 11. Install the idle mixture adjusting screws (needles) and springs (Fig. 25). Turn the needles in gently with the fingers until they just touch the seat, then back them off 1 1/2 turns for a preliminary idle fuel mixture adjustment. Do not install the idle mixture limiters at this time. Install the power valve cover and new gasket. The power valve cover must be installed with the limiter stops on the cover in position to provide a positive stop for the tabs on the idle adjusting limiters. 12. Install the main jets and the fuel inlet seat, filter screen, and new gasket. Be sure the correct jets are installed. 13. Install the fuel inlet needle assembly in the fuel 'inlet seat. Fuel inlet needles and seats are matched assemblies. Be sure the correct needle and seat are assembled together.
1. Position the fast idle cam lever on the thermo ~ tatic choke shaft and lever assembly. The bottom of the fast idle cam lever adjusting screw must rest against the tang on the choke lever. Insert the choke lever into the rear of the choke housing. Position the choke lever so that the hole in the lever is to the left side of the choke housing. 2. Install the fast idle cam rod on the fast idle cam lever. Place the fast idle cam on the fast idle cam rod and install the retainer. Place the choke housing vacuum pick-up port to main body gasket on the choke housing on the main body. Position the gasket, and install the choke housing retaining screws. Install the fast idle cam retainer. Install the thermostatic spring housing. AIR HORN Refer to Fig. 25 for the correct location of the parts. 1. If the choke plate shaft was removed, position the shaft in the air horn, then install the choke plate rod on the end of the choke shaft. 2. If the choke plate was removed, insert the choke plate into the choke plate shaft. Install the choke plate screws snug, but not tight. Check for proper plate fit, binding in the air horn and free rotation of the shaft by moving the plate from the closed position to the open position. If necessary, remove the choke plate and grind or file the plate edge where it is binding or scraping on the air horn wall. If the choke plate and shaft moves freely, tighten the choke plate screws while holding the choke in the fully closed position. Stake the screws. When staking
10-46 the screws, support shaft and plate on a block of wood or a metal bar to prevent bending of the shaft. 3. Position the main body gasket and the choke 10d plastic seal on the main body. Position the air horn on the main body and gasket so that the choke plate rod fits through the seal and the opening in the main body.
GROUP
10-FUEL SYSTEM
4. Insert the end of the choke plate rod into the automatic choke lever. Install the air horn retaining screws and the carburetor identification tag. Tighten the retaining screws. Install the choke pia te rod retainer. Install the air cleaner anchor screw. Tighten the air cleaner anchor screw to the specified torque.
5. Perform the automatic choke plate clearance adjustment after the carburettor has been installed on the vehicle. Refer to Page 10.40.
6. After the specified air-fuel is obtained, install the idle mix lure limiter caps.
~ DIAPHRAGM~ ~
LINK
~
1\J
u., I
Q-i a-~ c::
o·
"'..,0 -"'s::
.., 0 ):,.Cl.
3 -
"'"'
"'
SOLENOID COVER___.
DIAPHRAGM~
.
ASSEMBLY -~ - - ~
AIR DISTRIBUTI
CHOKE PLATE - 9545
"'1\J
ACCELERATING PUMP DISCHAR~7E13~~-~L CHECK
o-O
-o "'6
":->
"'
(
""'
'-
BOOSTER VENTURI 9577
-.
LOCKNUT
4-_
\
~
SCRE~
\p_
:::0 -l
SOLENOID BRACKET- 9B550
~::--WEIGHT
~
-9B511 NOZZLE BAR AND BOOSTER VENTURI ASSEMBLY ~ 9A523 -. '~SCREW AND WASHER -43252-S
AIR HORN~~ 9 4
g
"tJ
:t>
~JII 1~~ 1
GASKET - 9A536 MAIN BODY-•9512 RETURN SPRING-9636
~
~
~ '~
~
..
:
~ ..
VALVE
0
~
0
DASHPOT-9B549
-l 0
DASH POT BRACKET -9B550 NUT -33923-S
~
::0 (')
RETAINER 375894-S
::0
:t>
ACCELERATING PU OVER-TRAVEL LEV
-
"T1
~............ SCREW
-l
~
0 THROTTLE SHAFT AND LEVER ASSEMBLY 9581
0
m
r
"'..... 0 0
(')
:t>
::0
CHOKE LEVER -9A 753
~~
ADJUSTING SCRE W- 372307-S
SPRING 9578
ASKET-95
83
,...-
PIN-9579 b 588
(9A l--~ ~~ .0
m
-l -l
FAST IDL E CAM ROD-90530
f;:::::::::
t t w~
LEVER 9538
c
::0
FAST IDLE CAM LEV ER - 9F571
~~ ~~-~"" ~lNG I
CHOKE HCUSING G NGINE
3
(II STIDLE
.
OJ
-
"""'"-:~::'..,~.,
_.-
GASKET -9871
" -. ""-."VJ
CHOKE_
.... __j
0
::0
THERMOSTATIC _ / SPRIN G HOUSING CLAMP - 9842
F.lt..c;.T lnl FlAM
POWERGASKET VALVE-9A565
~"" _,., ......... Jf:8 ~/ _.i COVER-9930 SCREW-31061-S
~
-
~
2 PIECE FAST IDLE ADJUSTINNGGINE LEVER- 351 C E
CHOKE
~
~
LEVER
...--
7. ~ 4
SCRE w- 31061-S
~
CHOKE SHIEL
"''"~""·'
V11J7.B
10-48
PART 10-5
MOTOR CRAFT MODEL 4300 4-V CARBURETTOR
Section 1. DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Description ... ... ... ... ... Operations ... .. . ... ... ... Fuel Inlet System Idle Fuel Supply System Primary Main Fuel Metering System Accelerating Pump System ... .. . ... Power Fuel Supply System... .. . ... Seco ndary Main Fuel Metering System Automatic Choke System ........... . 2. IN-CA R ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS Idle Speed Adju stment ........ . Idle Limiter Cap Replacement ... ... ...
0
Section 3. MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS Removal ... Disassembly ... ... Air Horn ... .. . Main Body Throttle Body .. Assembly ... ..... . Throttle Body Air Horn ..... . Air Horn to Main Body ...
Page 10-48 10-48 10-50 10-50 10-50 10-51 10-51 10-52 10-52 10-53 10-54 10-55 10-55
Page 10-59 10-59 10-59 10-59 10-60 10-60 10-60 10-60 10-60 10-62
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
DESCRIPTION The Motorcraft Model 4300 4-V Carburettor (Figs, 1, 2 and 3) is a separately cast design three-pie ce , consisting of the air horn, main body and throttle body. A cas t-in centre fuel inlet has provision for a supplementary fuel inlet system. The fuel bowl is vented by an internal balance vent. The hot idle compensator shown in some illustrations is not fitted when this carburetor is fitted to the Cleveland engine. The main (primary) fuel system has booster-type venturis cast integral with the air horn and the main venturis are cast integral with the main body. The secondary throttle plates are mechanically operated from the primary linkage. Air valve plates are located above the secondary main ven turis and an integral dampens sudden hydraulic dashpot movement of the air valve plates to help prevent flutter and erractic engine operation. A single fuel bowl supplies both the primary and secondary fuel systems. Pontoon-type floats are used to help cornering and hill climbing capability. The accelerating pump is of the piston -type, located in the fuel bowl.
HOT IDLE COMPENSATOR •THUNDERRIRD. CONTI N ENTAL MARK Ill, AND LINCOLN CONTINENTAL ONLYI
PRIMARY THROTTLE SH.:. FT
FAST IDLE SPEED ADJUSTI NG SC REW VI268. A
FIG. 1- Matorcraft Mode/4300 4-V Carburetor -Right Rear 3/4 View
10-49
PART 10-5 MOTORCRAFT MODEL 4300 CARBURETTOR
THROTTLE SHAFT AND LEVER
V 1149-A
F /G. 2 - Model 4300 4· V Carburetor - Typical -Left Front 3/4 View
FUEL INLET CHOKE
FAST IDLE CAM ADJUSTING SCREW
CHOKE HCXJSING
LEVER SECONDARY AIR VALVE DASH PDT ¥1'297-A
FIG. 3- Mode/4300 4- V Carburetor - Top View - Typical.
10-50
GROUP 10- FUEL SYSTEM
SPECIFIED FLOAT
SPECIFIED FLOAT LEVEL
_j
FLOAT DROPS
~
0 AIR II FUEL
Fig. 4-Fuel Inlet System OPERATION The Model 4300 4-V Carburet tor is designed to supply a calibrated fuelair mixture to a V -8 engine. In normal operation, each of the primary venturis supplies all the fuel-air mixture required by four cylinders. The idle, main metering, power fuel supply, accelerating pump and choke systems go into operation automatically to provide the proper richness or leanness of the mixture for the operating condition. Operation of the fuel metering systems is controlled by the accelerator linkage, throttle position and engine speed. The choke system is controlled by the throttle position and the temperature of the engine exhaust manifold.
FUEL INLET SYSTEM Correct calibration of the carburettor depends on fuel being available at a specific level in the fuel bowl. If the fuel level is low, the metering systems deliver Jean mixtures; if the level is high, mixtures are rich. The function of the fuel inlet system is to admit gasoline into the fuel bowl and maintain the soecified level. Fig. 4 shows the construction and operation of the fuel inlet system. The fuel inlet is constantly charged with fuel under pressure from the fuel pump. This fuel enters the bowl through the fuel inlet valve, which is permitted to open when the float lowers. The float moves up-and-down with the fuel level. When enough fuel has entered to fill the bowl to the correct level, the float is high enough for the
O
AIR
•
FUEL
Fig. 5-Auxiliary Fuel Valve Operation float lever to push the inlet valve (needle) against its seat. Flow of the fuel into the bowl then is blocked until some fuel is used and the float lowers again. Auxiliary Fuel Inlet Valve An auxiliary fuel inlet valve is built into this system to supplement the main or primary fuel inlet valve when engine fuel requirements are high. The main or primary fuel inlet valve controls small fuel flows precisely because of its small area of opening and relatively high valve-toseat sealing pressure. When large fuel flows are required, as in high engine speeds· and heavy-load conditions, the fuel level and float height drop, thereby opening the auxiliary valve (Fig. 5) in addition to the main or primary fuel inlet valve. The total combined fuel valve opening is larger than the previous single valve that has been used in former Ford carburetors. In addition to supplying fuel for high engine load conditions, the large combined valve opening also purges the carburettor-to-fuel rump line, after a hot restart, of fue vapor that forms during a hot soak condition. Venting the Bowl Two stand pipes beside the air horn (Fi~. 4) vent the bowl to the fresh air inlet. The stand pipes are open to the carburetor intake air after the air passes through the air cleaner. Thus, the howl pressure and air horn pressure are equal during main metering system operation, and the calihration o( the carhuretor isn't affected by the air cleaner's condition.
IDLE FUEL SUPPLY SYSTEM When the throttles are closed or nearly closed, there is not enough air flow through the venturis to create the vacuum needed to operate the primary main metering system. Therefore, a separate fuel metering system for idle operation is incorporated. The primary idle fuel supply system (Fig. 6) uses the pressure difference between manifold vacuum and atmospheric pl'essure in the bowls to cause fuel flow. Idle system fuel flow is from the bowl, through the main metering jets and into the main wells. From there, the fuel flows up through calibrated restriction in the idle tubes, then down the idle channels to the idle cavities in .the throttle body. It enters the venturis below the throttle plates through the idle discharge port and idle transfer slot. The idle fuel adjustment screw r,e gulates the amount of fuel that is discharged through the port. Air Bleeds Filtered air is mixed with the fuel through the idle air bleeds to help the fuel atomize as it is discharged. The bleed also prevents siphoning through the idle system at very high speeds, or when the engine is shut down. Idle Transfer Slot The idle transfer slot in each venturi serves both as an air bleed and as a secondary discharge port. At closed throttle (Fig. 6), the top of the slot admits air mto the idle cavity, and the bottom of the slot delivers fuel to the venturi. When the
PART 10-5 MOTORCRAFT MODEL 4300 CARBURETTOR throttle opens slightly ahove an idle <'ondition. the whole length of the slot becomes a discharge port to richen the mixture (Fig. 6). This secon'dary discharge opening prevents the increase in air flow from making the mixtUie too lean. There would be a "flat spot" in the transition from the idle to the main metering system without the transfer slot.
PRIMARY MAIN FUEL METERING SYSTEM A primary main fuel metering system, divided into two parts _ one for each primary barrel _ provides the fuel required by the engine at cruising speeds. Main metering systems are calibrated to deliver a lean mixture _about 15 parts air to one part gasoline _ when the engine is cruising under light load. When more power is required. the main metering system continues to operate, and the mi¥ture is made richer by other systems. Parts of the Main Metering System In the Model 4300 carburettor,the primary main metering system (Fig. 7' has two main metering jets; main wells. and main well tubes; calibrated air bleeds; disC'harge nozzles; and booster venturis. At rest, fuel flow!; from the bowl, through the main jets, and into the main wells and tubes. In each well and tube, the fuel assumes the same level as in the bowl until the engine begins to operate. Pressure Difference Causes Flow With the engine operating, the main metering system delivers fuel in response to the throttle plate opening. Opening the throttle causes air flow through the main venturi and booster venturi; the flow through
the booster venturi causes a pressure drop or partial vacuum at the discharge nozzle. The fuel howl is at air horn pressure, resulting in a preSSJ.Ire difference that creates flow through the system. Fuel is sprayed out the discharge nozzle and mixes with the airstream. The size of the main jet determines how much fuel is delivered for a given volume of air flow. Increasing or decreasing throttle opening increases or decreases the fuel delivery so that the mixture proportion or ratio is quite constant. Bleed Assists Vaporization The high-speed air bleeds (Fig. !!) in the system permits some air to be mixed with the fuel in the main well. The air enters the main well tube through two holes when fuel is flowing in the system. Adding air at this point assists vaporization, and com· pensates for the tendency of the air to become less dense at high speeds. The bleed also doubles as an antisiphoning vent at low speeds. And it discourages percolation when a hot engine is shut down by venting the main well .
ACCELERATING PUMP SYSTEM Air, being very light, responds rapidly to changes in the throttle opening. Gasoline is heavier, and therefore not as responsive. When the throttles are opened suddenly, air flow increases rapidly, but fuel flow lags. So that the engine will respond instantly to opening the throttle, an accelerating pump system. which furnishes 1'1 . single spurt of fuel in each primary venturi when the throttles are opened, is incorporatC'd .
Piston-Type Pump A piston-type pump (Fig. 9) is actuated by a link from the accelerator linkage and by a spring to cause the pumping action. The pumping cham her is formed below a cup on the pump piston. A hall-type intake check valve and a needle-type discharge valve control the flow of fuel into and out of the .pumping chamber and channels. Discharge nozzles open into both primary venturis. Fuel Intake Fuel intake occurs as the throttles are closed (Fig. 9). The accelerating pump link pulls the piston up, compressing the piston ring. A partial vacuum is created helow the piston cup in the pumping chamber. Fuel in the bowl, at this time, is exposed to full atmospheric pressure. as the external vent valve lever also is actuated by the accelerating pump link to open the valve. The pressure difference pushes the intake check valve off its seat and causes fuel to flow from the bowl into the pumping chamber. The discha'rge valve is seated. and prevents backflow in the discharge passages. J:'uel Discharge When the throttles open (Fig. 10), the end of the accelerating pump link moves down in the piston arm slot, and the spring pushes the piston into the oumoine chamber. PressurP. builds up ~n the chamber to force the inlet valve closed on its seat. Fuel is pumped through the discharge passages __ the discharge ·valve is forced open hy the fuel pressure _ and fuel is spraY,ed out the discharge nozzle. When the piston has reached its limit of travel (depending on how far the accelerator is depressed), flow stops and the discharge valve seats. The discharge passages remain primed, or full of fuel, so that pumping action through the nozzles is instantaneous on the next cycle. BOOSTER VENTURI
OAIR FUEL
1[;1 FUEL
AND AIR
VACUUM
OAIR FUEL
(;11
FUEL AND AIR VACUUM
Fig. 6 ·- Idle Transfer Slot is Secondary Discharge Passage
10-51
MAIN METERING JET MAIN WELL TUBE
Fig. 7- Primary Main Metering System
GROUP 10- FUEL SYSTEM
10-52
.
FUEL
Fig. 8 - High-Speed Air Bleeds Air Bleed Check Valve With the engine operating at high speed, a vacuum exists at the accelerating pump discharge nozzles. An air bleed check valve prevents this vacuum from siphoning fuel through the accelerating pump system when fuel is not being discharged. The valve is placed at the upper end of the discharge nozzle passage.
CLOSED
POWER FUEL SUPPLY SYSTEM The main metering system provides a lean mixture for cruising conditions, when power requirements are not high. When more power is required for high speed operation or for accelerating it is necessary to burn more fuel. The small amount of fuel in a lean mixture does not provide enough heat upon combustion for full engine power. Therefore, a way to "step up" or richen the mixture is provided .. . this "step up" system is termed the power fuel supply system (Fig. 11). Vacuum Piston and Power Valve The power fuel supply system uses a vacuum-controlled piston in the air horn body and a power valve to admit more fuel when power is required. The vacuum piston rod is spring-
Fig. 10- Accelerating Pump- Discharge loaded, and tends to push the rod down. The stem of the power valve is also spring-loaded, tending to hold the power valve up or closed. Manifold vacuum is sensed on top of the piston through passages in the carburetor bodies. At idle or cruising conditions, the vacuum is high enough to overcome the p1ston rod sprmg force. The piston and rod are held up and away from the power valve stem. The power valve spring then holds the valve closed. Another Passage to the Main Well When the engine is under load. the vacuum drops. The vacuum piston rod is pushed down by its spring and the rod pushes on the power valve stem. The comparatively light power
valve spring is overcome and the valve opens (Fig. 12). Opening the valve gives another passage from the bowl to the main wells .. . through the valve and power jets. The effect is the same as if a temporary increase in the size of the main jets was made. More fuel is discharged through the main metering system to make the mixture richer. When the engine load decreases, the process is reversed. The piston is pulled up by higher manifold vacuum and allows the power valve to close.
SECONDARY MAIN FUEL METERING SYSTEM . All the "action" described in this section so far is within the primary
OAIR •
FUEL
VACUUM PISTON
MANIFOLD VACUUM CHANNEL
POWER
PARTIAL VACUUM
INTAKE CHECK VALVE (UNSEATED)
Fig. 9 -Accelerating Pump System-Intake
.
FUEL
.
VACUUM
POWER JET
Fig. 11 -Power Fuel Supply System
PART 10-5 MOTORCRAFT MODEL 4300 CARBURETTOR
10-53
SECONDARY CHANNEL BLEED
MAIN WELL
0
AIR
•
FUEL VACUUM
VALVE OPENS 0
AIR
8
FUEL AND AIR
FUEL VACUUM
Fig. 12- Power Valve Action venturis. The following deals with the "secondaries", the other two venturis that give an extra volume of fuel-air mixture when maximum power is applied. The secondary throttles are linked mechanically to the primaries, and begin to open when the primariPs are three-q uarters open. Air Valve Plates Each secondary venturi (barrel) (Fig. 13) has an offset air valve plate located below its booster venturi . These plates are preloaded by a spiral torsion spring, which holds them closed when the secondary throttles are closed . The air valve plates being closed, cause a vacuum as soon as the throttles begin to open. The fuel bowl is at air horn pressure. The pressure difference starts fuel flowing from the bowl; through the seconda:y main jet tube to the secondary roam wells; · then through the main well
ENRICHMENT DISCHARGE TUBE
Fig. 13- Secondary Main Metering System tubes and out the enrichment discharge tubes. Secondary Main Discharge Tubes A second stage of fuel supply occurs when the air valve plates are pulled open by manifold vacuum below them. Increased air flow then causes fuel to be discharged into the booster venturis from the secondary main discharge tubes. The amount that the air valves open, and therefore the amount of mixture delivered, is controlled by the difference in air pressure acting on the plates balanced against the spiral torsion spring. An integral hydraulic dashpot dampens sudden movemPnts of the plates to prevent flutter and erratic e ngine operation. Air Bleeds Air is introduced into the fuel at the secondary channel anti-siphon hleed and at th e high -speed bleeds to help vaporization. The bleeds also
act as anti-percolation vents at idle or when a hot engine is shut down, by relievi-ng pressure in the main well tubes.
AUTOMATIC CHOKE SYSTEM To start and operate a cold engine, it is necessary to supply a richer mixture, because the fuel doPsn't vaporize as readily and because part of the vaporized fuel condenses inside the cold intake manifold. The choke system, by regulating the position of the choke above the primary venturis, provides the means of making the cold mixture rich. and gradually letting it become leaner as the engine warms up. Thermostatic Spring Controls Choke Plate The thermostatic spring in the choke housing (Fig. 14) exerts a torque that forces the linkage to close the choke plate when the engine is cold. The choke plate is closed fully
FAST IDLE ADJUSTMENT SCREW
Fig. 14- Automatic Choke System
Fig. 15- Fast Idle Cam
GROUP 10-FUEL SYSTEM
10-54
SECONDARY THROTTLE SHAFT AND LEVER
Fig. 16 - Choke Unloader Operation before the engine starts so as to block air flow into the venturis. When the engine is cranked, engine vacuum then causes fuel to flow from the main metering and idle systems to start the engine. Choke Plate Pulldown When the engine starts, some air is needed to prevent flooding. The choke plate is pulled open slightly by the effect of engine vacuum and by the operation of tht choke piston. The piston, also located in the choke housing, is actuated by vacuum as soon as the engine starts. Piston travel is limited by vacuum bypass slots in the choke piston cylinder wall and a slot in the piston. When the slots meet, vacuum starts to bleed off, preventing further piston travel. Thus, the choke plate is opened just enough to prevent flooding, but not enough to lean out the cold mixture. If the engine is accelerated during warmup, vacuum drops and the choke closes for an instant ... the mixture
EJ
Fig. 17- Secondary Throttle Lockout
is thus made richer to prevent a "stumble" or stalling. Exhaust-Heated Air Control As the engine warms up, inlet manifold supplied heat warms the thermostatic choke spring. The choke closing force is gradually relaxed and the choke plate opens as the engine becomes warm. Fast Idle Cam During the engine warm-up period, it is necessary to have a faster idle speed to prevent stalling. The fast idle cam (Fig. 15) increases the idle speed by cracking the throttles to admit more air. The cam is rotated into position under the fast idle adjustment screw bv the automatic choke lever. The adjustment screw is mounted on the throttle lever and actuates the throttles when the cam contacts it. The cam has several steps, and moves to succeedingly lower steps under the fast idle adjustment screw as the en-
gine warms up. Thus, there are progressively !ewer fast-idle speeds. Choke Unloader (Dechoker) If the engine becomes flooded while the driver is trying to start it, the choke unloader (Fig. 16) permits the choke, by using the throttle lever, to be opened. Pushing the accelerator pedal to the floor mechanically moves a projection on the throttle lever against the unloader face on the fast idle cam. The cam partially opens the choke plate. Secondary Throttle Lockout The secondary throttle lockout (Fig. 17) also is actuated by the choke system to prevent the secondary venturis from delivering fuel when the engine is cold. The throttle lockout lever engages with a lever on the secondary throttle shaft, and holds the throttle plates tightly closed during choking. When the choke opens, the lockout lever is disengaged so that the secondaries can operatE>.
IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
CARBURETTOR ADJUSTMENTS The adjustments described and illustrated in this part should be performed as required to retain the desired engine performance characteristics. Refer to the Specifications when evercarburettor adjustments are made. IDLE SPEED AND FUEL MIXTURE
All carburettors are equipped with idle fuel mixture adjusting limiters. The limiters control the maximum idle richness
and help prevent unauthorized persons from making overly rich idle adjustment. The plastic idle limiter cap is installed on the head of the idle fuel mixture adjusting screw(s). (Fig. 18). Any adjustment made on carburettors having this type of limiter must be within the range of the idle adjusting limiter. Under no circumstances are the idle adjusting limiters or the limiter stops on the carburettor to be mutilated or deformed to render the limiters inoperative. A satisfactory idle should be obtainable within the range of the idle
adjusting limiters, if all other engine systems are operating within specifications. At pre-delivery, follow the Normal Idle Fuel Settings for both Engine Off and Engine On and in Step 1 of Additional Idle Speed and Fuel Mixture Procedures. Other fuel system adjustments should not be required at pre-delivery service. Followins are the normal procedures necessary to properly adj\lSt the engine idle speed and fuel mixture. The specific operations should be followed in the sequence given whenever the idle speed Qr
10-55
PART 10-5 MOTORCRAFT MODEL 4300 CARBURETTOR idle full adjustments are made. In isolated cases, a satisfactory idle condition may not be achieved by performing the normal procedures. If this occurs, refer to Additional Idle Speed and Fuel Mixture Procedures. NORMAL IDLE FUEL SETTINGS - ENGINE OFF 1. Set the idle fuel mixture screw(s) and limiter cap(s) to the full-counterclockwise position of the limiter cap(s). 2. Back off the curb idle speed adjusting screw (Fig. 19) until the throttle plate(s) seat in the throttle bore(s). 3. Be sure the dashpot or solenoid throttle positioner (if so equipped) is not interfering with the throttle lever (Fig. 20) . It may , be necessary to loosen the dashpot or solenoid to allow the throttle plate(s) to seat in the throttle bore(s) . 4. Turn the idle speed adjusting screw inward until it just makes contact with the screw stop on the thottle shaft and lever assembly. Then, turn the screw inward I 1/2 turns to establish a preliminary idle speed adjustment (Fig. 19). 5. Set the parking brake while making idle mixture and speed adjustments. NORMAL IDLE FUEL SETTINGS - ENGINE ON 1. The engine and underhood temperatures must be stabilized before idle adjustments are made. Run the engine a minimum of 20 minutes at 1500rpm. This can be done by positioning the fast idle screw or cam follower on the kickdown step of the fast idle cam (Fig. 21). 2. Check the initial ignition timing and the distributor advance. Use an accurate-reading tachometer and timing light when checking the initial ignition timing and idle fuel mixture and speed. 3. On vehicles with a manual-shift transmission, the idle setting must be made only when the transmission is in Neutral. On vehicles with an automatic transmisSion, the idle setting is made with the transmission selector lever in the Drive range. 4. Be sure the choke plate is in the full-open position. 5. Turn the headlights on high beam to place the alternator under a load condition in order to properly adjust to the specified engine idle speed. 6. The final idle speed adjustment is made with the air C()nditioner (if equipped) turned ON. 7. Adjust the engine curb idle rpm to specifications. The tachometer reading (rpm) must be taken with the air cleaner
MODEL 4300 4. V
FIG. 19- Curb Idle Speed Adjusting Screws
IDLE MIXTURE LIMITER S
FIG. 18- Idle Fuel Mixture Adjusting Limiter - 4300 4· V
installed. On vehicles with less than 50 miles, set the idle speed approximately 25 rpm below specifications to allow for an rpm increase as the engine loosens up in the first 100 miles of driving. If it is not possible to adjust the idle speed with the air cleaner installed; remove it, make the adjustment, then replace the air cleaner and check again for the specified rpm. Manual transmission vehicles may be fitted with a solenoid throttle positioner. However this is not connected on these engines and must be adjusted so as not to affect the engine idle speed. Idle speed adjustment is to be made on the normal throttle stop screw. 8. Turn the idle mixture adjusting screw(s) inward an equal amount to obtain the smoothest idle possible within the range of the idle limiter(s). Check for idle smoothness only with the air cleaner installed. ADDITIONAL IDLE SPEED AND FUEL MIXTURE PROCEDURES If satisfactory idle condition is not obtained after performing the preceding normal idle fuel settings, additional checks of engine systems must be performed. 1. The following items should be checked and, if required, corrected. a. Vacuum leaks b. Ignition system wiring contmuity c. Spark plugs d. Distributor breaker point ."well angle e. Distributor point condition f. Initial ignition timing In certain instances, it may be possible that the idle condition is not as good as ... "'ltally expected. It is suggested that the customer with a new vehicle be advised that the vehicle be driven 50 to 100 miles.
Then, when the engine friction has been reduced, the idle condition should be improved. If, after the break-in period, the idle condition is believed to be unsatisfactory, re-adjust the engine idle speed to specification and observe for a satisfactory idle. 2. If the idle condition is not improved after the items in Step I have been checked, perform the following engine mechanical checks:
DASHPOT LOCKNUT
BJ134·A
FIG. 20- Dashpot - Typical Installation
a. Fuel Level b. Crankcase ventilation system c. Valve clearance (using the collapsed tappet method for hydraulic valves) d. Engine compression 3. After verification of all engine systems has been made, there may be isolated cases where a satisfactory idle condition has not been obtained. due possibly to a lean idle fuel mixture. If this condition is encountered, refer to the following operation. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF IDLE LIMITER CAPS Should the idle limiter caps need replacement because of deformation, mutilation or readjustment of idle mixture to meet emission level requirements the fo:'owing procedure must be adhered to as the 'therm'll conductivity' type of gas analyzer found iri most service shops is not accurate enough to give the required carbon monoxide readings . 1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Cut the plastic limiter cap ana carefully pry apart and remove it from the
GROUP 10- FUEL SYSTEM
10-56 idle adjustment screw. 3. Replace the air cleaner . 4. Set the ignition timing to specification. 5. Attach an accurate tachometer to the engine. 6. Run the engine until the normal operating temperature is reached. 7. Adjust the idle air/fuel mixture screws to give the best quality idle at 20 R.P .M. above the specified speed. 8. Lean off the idle air/fuel mixture screws an equal amount on each screw by turning in a clockwise direction until the engine R.P.M. drops to the specified idle speed . 9. Remove the air cleaner. 10. Install the blue plastic service limiter cap. Use care not to turn the idle mixture when installing the cap. Position . the cap so that it is in the maximum counterclockwise position with the tab of the limiter against the stop on the carburetor. The idle mixture screw will then be at the maximum allowable outward or rich setting. To install the service limiter cap, use a straight forward push with thumb pressure or a 3/ 8" rod. 11. Replace the air cleaner and recheck the idle speed to ensure that the mixture screws were not accidently rotated while fitting the limiter caps. 12. Remove the tachometer from the engine. FAST IDLE ADJUSTMENT
The fast idle adjusting screw (Fig. 21) contacts one edge of the fast idle cam. The cam permits a faster engine idle speed for smoothe.r running when the engine is cold during choke operation. As
Make certain the curb idle speed and mixture are adjusted to specification before attempting to set the fast idle speed. 1. With the engine operating temperature normalized (hot), air cleaner removed and the tachometer attached, manually rotate the fast idle cam until the fast idle adjusting screw rests on the specified step on the cam. 2. Turn the fast idle adjusting screw inward or outward as required to obtain the specified fast idle rpm.
in Fig. 22. Bend the pump control rod to correct the piston stem height to specifications. If it is necessary to correct the setting, the pump stroke can be altered as follows : 1. Remove the pump pivot pin retainer. Remove pivot pin. 2. Insert the pivot pin into the desired hole. 3. Install the pivot pin retainer. Position the pump rod end into the pump arm and install the retainer.
ANTI-STALL DASHPOT (if fitted)
CHOKE PLATE PULLDOWN AND FAST IDLE CAM CLEARANCE
1. With the engine idle speed and mixture ·properly adjusted, and the engine at normal operating temperature, loosen the anti-stall dashpot lock nut. 2. Hold the throttle in the closed position and depress the plunger with a screwdriver blade. Measure the clearance between the throttle lever and the plunger tip. Turn the anti-stall dashpot in a direction to provide the specified clearance between the tip of the plunger and the throttle lever. Tighten the locknut to secure the adjustment. AUTOMATIC CHOKE THERMOSTATIC SPRING HOUSING ADJUSTMENT
The automatic choke has an adjustment to control its reaction to engine temperature. By loosening the clamp screws that retain the thermostatic spring housing to the choke housing. The spring housing can be turned to alter the adjustment. Refer to the specifications for the proper setting. 1. Remove the air cleaner assembly, heater hose and mounting bracket (if so equipped) from the carburettor. 2. Loosen the thermostatic spring housing clamp retaining screws. Set the spring housing to the specified index mark and tighten the clamp retaining screws. 3. If other carburettor adjustments are not required, install the heater hose and mounting bracket (if so equipped) and the air cleaner assembly on thecarburettor.
V1271-A
FIG. 21- Fast Idle Speed Adjustment Motorcraft Model4300 4-V
the choke plate is moved through its range of travel from the closed to the open position, the fast idle cam pick-up lever rotates the fast idle cam. Each position on the fast idle cam permits a slower idle rpm as engine temperature rises and choking is reduced.
ACCELERA TlNG PUMP STROKE ADJUSTMENT The accelerating pump stroke has been set to help keep the exhaust emission level of the engine within the specified limits. The additional holes provided for pump stroke adjustment are for adjusting the stroke for specific engine applications. The stroke should not be changed from the specified setting. If the pump stroke has been changed from the specified setting refer to the following instructions to correct the stroke to specification. ~efore adjusting the accelerating pump stroke, measure the height of the pump piston stem as shown
CHOKEPLATEPULLDOWN 1. Remove the air cleaner, then remove the choke thermostatic spring housing from the carburettor. To remove the thermostatic spring housing from the carburettor installed on the engine, refer to Thermostatic Spring Housing and Gasket Replacement. 2. Bend a wire gauge of 0.036-inch diameter at a 90 degree angle approximately 1/8-inch from one end. 3. Block the throttle about half-open so the fast idle cam does not contact the fast idle adjustment screw, then insert the bent end of the wire gauge between the lower edge of the piston slot and the upper edge of the right-hand slot in the choke housing (Fig. 23). 4. Pull the choke piston lever counterclockwise until the gauge is snug in the piston slot. Hold the wire gauge in place by exerting light pressure in a rearward direction on the choke piston lever. Check the choke plate clearance (Pull down) between the lower edge of the choke pia te and the wall of the air horn. 5. To adjust the choke plate clearance, loosen the hex head screw (left hand thread) on the choke plate shaft (Fig. 23) and pry the link away from the tapered shaft. Use a drill gauge 0.010-inch under the specified clearance between the lower edge of the choke pia te and the wall of the air horn. Hold the choke plate against the gauge and maintain a light pressure in a rearward direction on the choke lever. With the choke piston snug against the 0.036-inch wire gauge and the choke plate against the drill gauge, tighten the hex head screw (left hand thread) on the choke plate shaft. The use of a 0.010-inch undersize drill gauge is to allow for tolerances in the linkage. Use a drill gauge equal to the size of the specified clearance to make a final check. 6. Install the gasket and thermostatic spring housing on the choke housing. Install the spring housing retainer and screws.
PART 10-5 MOTORCRAFT MODEL 4300 CARBURETTOfl IJ END ROD f O AD JUS I Ht IGHT
V1298 A
FIG. 22- Accelerating Pump Piston Stem Heigh't and Pump Stroke
FAST IDLE CAM CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT
the choke plate and the air horn wall. Turn the fast idle cam adjusting screw inward to increase the clearance or outward to decrease the clearance. Make sure the fast idle speed adjusting screw stays at the kickdown step of the fast idle cam during the adjustment. On the 351 C engine, a two-piece fast idle lever is used to provide clearance between the lever and manifold, and a tang on the top lever will align with the V mark on the cam. 3. Set the thermostatic choke housing to the specified index mark and tighten the retaining screws. 4. If the choke plate clearance and fast idle cam linkage adjustment was performed with the carburetor on the engine, adjust the engine idle speed and fuel mixture. Adjust the anti-stall dashpot (if so equipped). DECHOKECLEARANCE
l. Rotate the spring housing counterclockwise (rich direction) to align the center index mark on the choke housing with the index mark on the spring housing. Rotate the spring housing an additional 90 degrees counterclockwise and tighten the retaining screws. 2. Position the fast idle speed adjusting screw end on the kickdown (centre) step of the fast idle cam. Check the clearance between the lower edge of
l. Open the throttle plate to the wide-open-throttle position .and hold. 2. Rotate the choke plate towards the closed position until the pawl on the fast idle speed lever contacts the fast idle cam. 3. Check the clearance between the lower edge of the choke plate and the air horn wall. the clearance to 4. Adjust specifications by bending the pa~l on the DRILL GAUGE OF SPECIFIED CLEARANCE SIZE
TAPER ·LOCK CHOKE SHAFT SCREW (LEFT HAND THREAD)
10-57
fast idle speed lever forward to increase or backward to decrease the clearance. FUEL LEVEL FLOAT AND AUXILIARY (SUPPLEMENTAL) VALVE SETTING
FLOAT SETTING To simplify parallel setting of the dual pontoons, refer to Fig. 24 for the construction of an adjustable float gauge and a float tab bending tool. 1. Adjust gauge to the spe.::ified· height. 2. Insert gauge into the air horn outboard holes (Fig. 25). 3. Check the clearance an
REMOVAL ·INCH WIRE GAUGE
APPLY LIGHT PRESSURE TO CHOKE LEVER
FIG. 23- Choke Plate Pull-Down and Fast Idle Cam Adjustment
V1235-A
1.
Remove the air cleaner assembly
2. Disconnect the fuel inlet line from the air horn. 3. Remove the choke clean air pick-up connecting tube from the air horn . 4. Remove the choke control rod retainer from the automatic choke lever. Separate the rod from the lever. 5. Remove the accelerator pump rod retainer or spring from the pump lever. Separate the rod from the lever.
10-58
GROUP 10- FUEL SYSTEM
NO. 12·32 x 2" SCREWS (2 REQ'O.) NO. 12 NUTS (6 REQ'O.)
v 1152-4 FIG. 26- Auxiliary (Supplemental) Valve Setting
ADJUST BOTH NUTS TO FLOAT HEIGHT SPECIFICATIONS
BENDING TOOL- 1/ 16" DIAMETER SPRING STEEL WIRE OR WELDING ROD, 8" LONG
82859·8
FIG. 24- Float Gauge and Bending Tool Details
retaining screws in the left rear hole. 5. Install the other air horn retaining screws and the carburettor identification tag. 6. Insert the accelerator pump control rod into the pump lever. Install the pin and the retainer or spring. 7. Insert the choke control rod end into the automatic choke lever. With long nose pliers, install the retainer. 8. Connect the fuel inlet line. 9. Connect the choke clean air pick-up and heat tubes. 10. Install the air cleaner. 11. Adjust the idle fuel mixture and engine curb idle speed.
BEND TAB TO RAISE OR LOWER FLOAT
MAIN AND AUXILIARY ~UPPLEMENTAL) FUEL INLET VALVE REMOVAL
1. Remove the air horn assembly from the main bo~y of the carburettor. 2. Pull the float pivot pin and remove the float and lever assembly. 3. Remove the main fuel inlet needle valve. then use the proper size screwdriver
....
ACCELERATOR PUMP DISCHARGE NEEDLE
FIG. 25- Float Setting. 6. Remove the air cleaner anchor screw and the air horn to main body retaining screws, and the carburettor identification tag. 7. Lift the air horn off the fuel bowl. 8. Remove the gasket. INSTALLATION 1. Make sure all holes in the new gaskets have been properly punched and
MAIN JETS
V 115l·A
that no foreign material has adhered to the gaskets Gasket surfaces must be clean and flat and free of nicks or burrs. 2. Install the gasket on the carburettor main body. 3. Carefully position the air horn assembly over the main body. Guide the accelerator pump plunger and the secondary throttle dash pot piston in to their chambers as the air horn is gently lowered into position. 4. Install the longest of the air horn
v 115S.4 F /G. 27 - Main Body Valves and Jets - Model 4300 4- V
PART 10-5 MOTORCRAFT MODEL 4300 CARBURETTOR or jet removal tool to remove the main and auxiliary valve. seats and gaskets. INSTALLATION
1. Install new gaskets on the valve seats. Then install the seats in the air horn. 2. Place the main fuel inlet needle valve in the valve seat. 3. Position the float and lever assembly between the hinge posts and over the fuel inlet valves, then install the float pivot pin. The pin must be inserted from the pump plunger side for self-retention. 4. Install the air horn on the main body. 5. Adjust-the idle fuel mixture and engine idle speed. ACCELERATING PUMP, INLET BALL CHECK, NEEDLE.VALVE AND
EJ
DISCHARGE CHECK VALVE DISC.
REMOVAL 1. Remove the air hom assembly from the main body of the carburettor. 2. Remove the accelerator rod retainer and rod from the accelerating pump lever, then remove the lever from the accelerating pump piston and remove the pump assembly from the air horn. 3. Remove the discharge checK valve retainer with a small hook. Invert the air horn and allow the check valve disc to fall into palm of hand. 4. Remove the accelerating pump inlet ball check retainer with long-nose pliers, then use a magnet to lift the ball check from the pump well. 5. Pick the accelerating pump discharge needle from the discharge cavity . INSTALLATION 1. Place the accelerating pump ball
10-59
check ·in the pump inlet hole of the pump chamber. Install the ball check retaining ring (Fig. 27). 2. Insert the discharge check valve disc into the valve cavity, and install the valve retainer flush with the air horn surface. The cross slot in the retainer is towards the valve.
3. Place the accelerating pump discharge needle into the pump discharge cavity.
4. Insert the accelerating piston in the air horn .
pump
5. Compres$ the pump plunger and insert accelerating pump arm into plunger stem. Line up holes in lever and insert pivot pin through the specified hole in lever and the air horn casting. Install retainer on pin. 6. Install the air horn assembly on the main body.
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS
CARBURmOR REMOVAL Flooding, stumble on acceleration and other performance complaints are in many instances, caused by the presence of dirt, water or other foreign matter in the carburetor. To aid in diagnosing the cause of complaint, the carburetor should be carefully removed from the engine without removing the fuel from the bowls. The contents of the bowls may then be examined for contamination as the carburetor is disassembled. 1. Remove the air cleaner (Page 10-67) Remove the heater hose from the choke shield (if so equipped). 2. Remove the throttle cable or rod from the throttle lever. Disconnect the distributor vacuum line, in-line fuel filter and the choke heat tube at the carburetor. 3. Disconnect the choke clean air tube from the air horn. 4. Remove the carburettor retaining nuts; then remove the carburettor. Remove the carburettor mounting gasket, spacer (if equipped) and lower gasket, from the intake manifold. INSTALLATION 1. Clean the gasket mounting surfaces of the spacer and carburettor. Place the spacer between two new gaskets and position the spacer and gaskets on the intake manifold. Position the carburettor on the spacer and gasket and secure it with the retaining lockwashers and nuts. To prevent leakage, distortion or damage to the carburettor body flange, snug the nuts; then, alternately tighten each nut in a criss-cross pattern to the specified torque.
2. Connect the in-line fuel fllter throttle cable, choke heat tube, and distributor vacuum line. Position the heater hose behind the choke shield. 3. Connect the choke clear air tube to the air horn. 4. Adjust the engine idle speed, the idle fuel mixture, anti-stall dashpot (if so equipped) and the accelerating pump stroke (if required). Install the air cleaner (Page 10-67) DISASSEMBLY
To facilitate working on the carburettor, and to prevent damage to the throttle plates, install carburettor legs on the base. If legs are unavailable, install four 5/16 x 2 1/2 inch bolts and 8 nuts; install nuts on the bolts, above and below the carburetor base. Use a separate container for the component parts of the various assemblies to facilitate cleaning, inspection, and assembly. The following is a step-by-step sequence of operations for completely overhauling the carburetor. However, certain components of the carburetot may be serviced without a complete disassembly of the entire unit.
AIR HORN 1. Remove the fuel inlet line from the fuel filter. 2. Remove the choke clean air pick up connecting tube from the air horn. 3. Remove the choke control rod retainer from the automatic choke lever. Separate the rod from the lever.
4. Remove the accelerator pump rod retainer or spring from the pump lever. Separate the rod from the lever.
5. Remove the air cleaner anchor screw and remove the air horn to fuel bowl retaining screws. 6. Lift the air horn off the main body. 7. Pull the float pivot pin and remove the float assembly. 8. Using the proper size screwdriver or jet removal tool, remove the main and auxiliary (supplemental) fuel inlet valve seats and gaskets. 9. Remove the secondary air valve lever retainer and the rod from the dampener piston assembly and air valve plate, then remove the air valve dampener piston rod and spring. 10. If it is necessary to remove the secondary air valve plate(s) attaching screws. Remove the plates, then slide the shaft out of the air horn. 11. If it is necessary to remove the choke plate or choke shaft, remove the staking marks on the choke plate retaining screws. If the tips of the screws are flared excessively, file the flared portion to prevent damage to the threads in the shaft. Remove the choke plate, then slide the choke shaft and lever out of the air horn. The choke lever is attached to the shaft with a left hand thread screw. 12. Do not remove the power valve vacuum piston assembly unless it is to be replaced. It is staked in place in the air horn, and care must be used to avoid damage to the air hom casting when relieving the staked areas.
GROUP 10- FUEL SYSTEM
10-60 MAIN BODY I. Turn the main body upside down and catch the accelerating pump discharge needle (Fig. 27). 2. With a 3/8 deep . socket, remove the power valve from the floor of the main body fuel bowl (Fig. 27). 3. Remove the main metering jets (Fig. 27) from the fuel bowl with a jet tool. 4. Using long nose pliers, remove the accelerating pump inlet check ball retainer, then turn the main body over and catch the ball from the pump well. CHOKE HOUSING
6. Remove the nut from the secondary throttle shaft, then remove the lockout lever and and slide the shaft and return spring out of the throttle body. 7. Remove the nut from the primary throttle shaft and remove the fast idle lever and adjusting screw (the 351 C engine has a two-piece fast idle lever). Slide the throttle shaft and primary throttle shaft and lever assembly out of the throttle plate. 8. Remove the primary throttle lever assembly retainer, then slide the lever and springs off the shaft. 9. If it is nec.essary to remove the fast idle cam or bushing. carefully press the bushing out of the choke housing and bushing column. The column may bend out of alignment or break without proper support to the column during bushing removal or installation. ASSEMBLY
Make sure all holes in the new gaskets have been properly punched and that no foreign material has adhered to the gaskets. Gasket surfaces must be clean and flat and free of nicks or burrs. The carburettor assembly is shown in Fig. 29 . THROTTLE BODY
SECQoiDARY THROTTLE PLATES
PRIMARY THROTTLE' SHAFT AND LEVER ASSEMBLY
FIG. 28- Throttle Body- Bottom View
THROTTLE BODY Do not remove the idle mixture limiter caps or the mixture screws from the throttle body. 1. Remove the throttle body to main body screws from the bottom of the throttle body (Fig. 28) and separate the two castings. 2. Remove the choke housing cover screws, cover, gaskets and thermostatic spring. 3. Remove the choke piston lever retaining screw, then remove the piston assembly. 4. Remove the retainers from the secondary throttle lever to primary throttle connecting link, then remove the link. 5. If it is necessary to remove the throttle plates or shafts from the throttle body, remove the staking marks on the throttle plate attaching screws. Remove tlie screws and remove the plates.
1. If the throttle plates and shafts are removed, slide· the primary throttle return spring (coiled clockwise) on the primary throttle shaft (flat milled) and slide the shaft into the primary shaft holes (mixture needle side of body). 2. Position the primary throttle plates (smaller diameter) in the primary bores with the ground flat edge of the plates facing up and towards the idle tnix ture needles. Install the plate retaining screws snug but not tight. 3. Rotate the throttle shaft to the closed position and tap the plate lightly with the end of a screw driver handle or similar tool, so that the plates are properly and fully seated in the throttle bores (when viewed with a light behind the plates, little or no light should be observed). Tighten the throttle plate screws. 4. Install the secondary throttle lock out lever. 5. Install the fast idle speed lever and adjusting screw. 6. If the fast idle cam and bushing were removed, insert the automatic choke shaft bushing tlwough the choke housing. Position the fast idle cam between the choke housing and bushing column. Slide
the bushing through the fast idle cam. Press the bushing in the choke housing and into the column. Clean the bushing with a 1/4-inch reamer. 7. Insert the automatic choke shaft and lever in the bushing. 8. Position the automatic choke piston in the choke cylinder and the lever on the automatic choke shaft. Install the retaining screw. 9. Insert the secondary throttle to primary throttle connecting rod into the throttle levers and install retainers. MAIN BODY TO THROTTLE BODY l. Position the main body on a working surface with the fuel bowl down. 2. Position the main body to throttle body gasket on the main body. 3. Position the throttle body on the main body and install the retaining screws. 4. Invert the main body and the throttle body so the fuel bowl is upward. 5. Install the power valve and main jets in the main body. 6. Install the choke to throttle lockout lever. 7. Place the accelerator pump ball check in the pump inlet hole of the pump chamber. Install the ball check retaining ring. 8. Place the accelerator pump discharge needle into the pump discharge cavity.
AIR HORN 1. Install the components removed from the air horn in the following order: a. Power valve and gasket. b. Auxiliary fuel inlet valve and gasket. 2. Assemble the accelerator pump plunger (Fig. 30) and insert into air horn. 3. ·compress the pump plunger and insert accelerator pump arm into plunger stem. Insert the split pivot pin through the specified hole in the lever and the air horn casting. 4. If the choke plate and shaft were removed, slide the choke shaft through the holes in the air horn. Install the choke shaft lever on the end of the shaft on the automatic choke side. The lever and shaft are tapered and the attaching screw has a left hand thread. Insert the choke plate into the slot in the choke shaft and install the plate retaining screws snug but not tight. 5. Close the choke plate and gently tap the plate with the end of a screw driver or a similar tool to properly position the plate in the air horn.
10-61
PART 10-5 MOTORCRAFT MODEL 4300 CARBURETTOR ACCELERATOR PUMP LINK-9529
PUMP CONTROL ROD - 9B542 RETAINER- 377918-S ~ AIR VALVE DAMPENER LEVER-9H582~ ~ . PIN-9H584
~ .~
AUXILIARY (SUPPLEMENTAL) VALVE ASSEMBLY -9564
a--""""'"' ""'' """"
fa
1
9B544
-----1
ACCELERATING PUMP PISTON CUP-95n
FLOAT AND LEVER ASSEMBLY-9550
PRIMARY THROTTLE SHAFT AND LEVER ASSEMBLY-9581
MAIN BODY (SERVICED IN 9510 ASSEMBLY)
SECONDARY THROTTLE
SECOI'()ARY THROTTLE SHAFT AND LEVER-9A592
I
SECONDARY THROTTLE RETURN SPRING-9B504
THROTTLE BODY AND CHOKE HOUSING-9518
FIG. 29- Model4300 4-V Carburetor Assembly
ond 34937-S
V1154-B
10-62
GROUP 10- FUEL SYSTEM rod through air horn and attach the rod end to ·the air valve lever. 12. Insert the accelerating pump bleed disc into the pump bleed cavity. 13. Set the float lever (Refer to In Vehicle Adjustments and Repairs). AIR HORN TO MAIN BODY
FIG. 30- Accelerator Pump in Position on Air Horn Tighten and stake the plate retaining screws. 6. If the air valve plates and shaft were removed, slide the shaft through the holes on the secondary side of the air horn and with the slotted end of the shaft in the air valve spring chamber. Position the plain air valve plate in the air horn opening on the underside of the air horn and adjacent to the spring chamber. Install the plate retaining screws snug but not tight. Position the other air valve plate in the air horn opening with the eye retainer for the air valve control rod facing upward. Install the plate retaining screws snug but not tight. 7. Close the air valves plates and lightly tap the plates with end of a screwdriver or similar tool to properly
position the plates in the air horn. Tighten and stake the plate retaining screws. Be sure the plates and shaft turn freely after assembly. 8. Insert fuel inlet needle into the fuel inlet seat. 9. Position float and lever assembly between hinge post and over fuel inlet valves. Insert the float hmge pin through the post and float lever. The pin must be inserted from the pump plunger side for self-retention. 10. Insert key end of air valve dampener rod into keyed hole in the air valve lever. Slide other end of rod into eye on the air valve pl.tte. Position the air valve dampener lever on the air horn and install pivot pin and retainer. 11. Insert the air valve dashpot piston
1. Position the main body to air horn gasket on the main body. 2. Carefully position the air horn assembly over the main body. Guide the accelerator pump plunger and the secondary throttle dashpot piston into their chambers as the air horn is gently lowered into position. 3. Install the other air hom retaining screws. 4. Insert the key end of accelerator pump control rod into the keyed hole in the primary throttle lever. Insert the other end of the rod into the pump lever and install retainer. 5. Insert the choke control rod end into the automatic choke lever. With long nose pliers, install the retaining clip. 6. Check the choke gasket cover clearance. 7. Install the choke gasket cover and retainer. Set the cover to the ninety (90) degree rich position. 8. Check the fast idle cam clearance. 9. Reset the choke cover to spc:cifications. 10. Remove the carburettor legs or bolts from the throttle body.
10-63
PART
10·6
FUEL PUMP AND FUEL FILTER
Pqe
Seetion 1 Description and Operation 2 Removal and Installation _ Fuel Filter Replacement Fuel Pump Removal _
D . DESCRIPTION
10-63 10-64 10-64 10-64
Seetion Fuel Pump Installation _ _ _ 3 Major Repair Operations _ _ _ AC Fuel Pump - 6-Cylinder Engines Carter Permanently Sealed Fuel Pumps
Pap
10-64 10-65 10-65 10-66
AND OPERATION
Single action fuel pumps are stand· ard equipment for all car models. The fuel pumps on the 6-cylinder engines are mounted on the lower, left-centre of the engine cylinder -block. On V -8 engines, the fuel pumps
are mounted on the left-side of the cylinder front cover. An AC type fuel pump (Fig. 1) is used on the 200 and 250 Six engines. (A Carter Permanently Sealed Fuel pump is used on the 250 C.I.D. engine fitted with air-conditioning
and on the 250-2V engine. A Carter permanently-sealed fuel pump ia used on the V -8 engines (Fig. 2). The fuel pumps are mechanically actuated by means of the fuel pump rocker arm and an eccentric on the camshaft.
FIG. 2 -Typical Carter Sealed Design Fuel Pump
4
Tt tffT
FIG. 1- Fuel Pump Assembly AC Type
-
Q
A separate in-line fuel fllter (Fig. 3) is used on V-8 and 250-2V engines and 250 engines fitted with air conditioning. The fllter is of one-piece construction and does not contain a cleanable fllter element. FILTER ASSEMBLY-9155
FIG. 3- Typical In-Line Fuel Filter Assembly- 351 C.I.D. Engine
GROUP 10- FUEL SYSTEM
10-64 A flexible fuel pump diaphragm is operated by a combination of rocker arm.action and calibrated spring tension. On the fuel intake stroke, the camshaft eccentric causes the rocker arm to lift the fuel pump diaphragm against the diaphragm spring pressure. This action draws fuel through the intake valve into the pump inlet chamber and closes the outlet valve. At the same time, fuel is drawn from the fuel tank through the fuel intake line to replace the fuel drawn into the chamber. As the camshaft eccentric continues to rotate, the rocker arm relieves the pressure on the diaphragm spring and allows the spring to move the diaphragm toward the inlet and outlet valves, exerting pressure on the fuel inlet chamber. This pressure
EJ
causes the pump inlet valve to close and the ensuing pressr.re build-up opens the outlet valve. The fuel is then forced through the pump outlet to -.r:.: fuel filter where it is cleansed before entering the carburettor. Fuel is delivered to the carburettor only when the fuel inlet valve in the carburettor is open. The carburettor inlet valve is closed by fuel pressure on. the float when the specified fuel level in the carburettor float chamber is reached. When there is no demand for fuel from the carburettor, the diaphragm spring tension is not strong enough to force the diaphragm against the fuel pressure built up in the inlet chamber of the pump. Thus, the up and down rocker arm action continues, but the diaphragm remains
stationary until pressure against the carburettor float is relieved by a demand for fuel at the carburettor. The A.C. type and the 8 cylinder Carter fuel pumps contain pressure· relief orifices in the inlet and outlet valve cages to prevent pressure build· up in the line to the carburettor during hot soak periods. The Carter sealed fuel pump fitted to 250-2V and 250 N (with air conditioning) 6 cylinder engines have an external by-pass pressure relief. An air vent is located in the fuel pump bodies to relieve air pressure build-up on the spring side of the diaphragm. The fuel pumps contain a diaphragm rod seal to prevent the en· trance of engine oil into the fuel pump.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
fUEL FILTER REPLACEMENT
The in-line fu~·l filter (Fig. 3) is of one-piece construction and cannot be cleaned. Replace the filter if it becomes clogged or restricted. 351 C.I.D. Engine l. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Loosen the retaining clamp securing the fuel inlet hose to the filter and detach the hose from the fllter. Discard the clamp. 3. Unscrew the fuel filter from the carburettor. 4 . Screw the new filter into the carburettor. 5. Place a new clamp on the fuel inlet hose and slide the hose onto the filter. 6. Position the hose clamp and crimp securely. 7. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks. 8. Replace the air cleaner. 302 C.I.D. Engine l. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Hold the hexagonal part of the fllter and unscrew the flared union fuel pipe to filter . 3. Hold the hexagonal female union on the carburetor and unscrew the flared union fllter to carburetor. Discard the filter.
4. Place the new filter in position and tighten the flared union filter to carburetor. 5. Tighten the flared union fuel pipe to filter. 6. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks. 7. Replace the air cleaner. 250-2V and 250 N (with air conditioner) engines 1. Loosen the clamp on the bypass hose at the filter and detach from filter . 2. Hold hex part of filter to prevent filter from turning and unscrew flared union, fuel pipe to filter. 3. Hold double female adaptor and unscrew flared union, fuel filter to double female adaptor. 4. Remove in-line filter. 5 • Place a new filter in position and screw top and bottom flared unions to retain filter by holding hex. on filter and hex on double female adaptor, respective1y. 7. Replace the by-pass hose. 8 • Start the Engine and check for fuel leaks.
2. Remove the fuel pump retaining screws and remove the pump and the gasket. Discard the gasket.
fUEL PUMP INSTALLATION 1. If the fuel pump on a 200 or 250 Six engine is to be replaced, transfer the fuel pump fitting(s) to the new fuel pump.
2. Remove all the gasket material from the mounting pad and pump. Apply oil-resistant sealer to both sides of a new gasket. Position the new gasket on the pump flange and hold the pump in position against the mounting pad. Make sure the rocker ann is ridinc on the camshaft eccentric. 3. Press the pump tight against the pad, install the retaining screws, and alternately torque them to specifications. 4. Connect the fuel inlet line or hose (use a new clamp on the hose) and the outlet line. If a hose is used at the fuel pump connection, crimp the retaining clamp securely.
fUEL PUMP REMOVAL 1. Disconnect the inlet line and the outlet line at the fuel pump.
5. Operate the engine and check for fuel leaks.
PART 10-6-
EJ
Fuel Pump and Filter
10-65
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS
AC FUEL PUMP6-CYLINDER ENGINES DISASSEMBLY The fuel pump assembly is shown in Fig. 1. 1. Scribe a line on the flanges of the pump body and valve housing to identify their original position. 2. Remove the valve housing from the fuel pump body. 3. Remove the staking marks from around the valves, remove both valves from t)le valve housing. CarefuDy note the position of the valves in the valve housing cover so that new valves can be correctly instaUed. Using a blunt punch, drive the rocker arm pin out of the pump body f.
(Fig. 4) .
5. Press the pump diaphragm into the fuel pump body and pull the rocker arm outward to unhook the diaphragm actuating rod from the rocker arm and link assembly (Fig. 5). 6. Remove the diaphragm and diaphragm return spring, rocker arm and link assembly, and the rocker arm return spring from the pump body. 7. Remove the diaphragm actua~ ing rod oil seal retainer and the oil seal from the pump body (Fig. 1). Tool- T56L-9 350-A Detoil 3
ROCKER ARM PIN
FIG. 4-Rocker Arm Pin Remowal CLEANING AND INSPECI10N Refer to Pageto-nfor the cleaning and inspection procedures.
11. · Position the valve body and pump body so that the previously scribed marks are aligned. ll. Install all the screws and the lockwashers until the screws just engage the fuel pump body. Make sure that all of the screws pass through the holes in the diaphragm without tearing the fabric.
FIG. 5-fuel Pump Diaplwagm
Remowal ASSEMBLY 1. Immerse the new oil seal in clean engine oil for 2 minutes prior to installation. Install the diaphragm actuating rod oil seal and retainer so that the seal protrudes towards the diaphragm mounting flange (Fig. 1). 2.
Seat the oil seal retainer.
3. Install the valves in the valve body so that the valve positions are as shown in Fig. 1. 4. Seat the valves firmly in the valve body. Stake the valves in place.
5. Lubricate the diaphragm actuating rod. 6. Position the fuel pump diaphragm and spring assembly into the pump body. 7. Hold the diaphragm as!lembly in the pump body; position the pump body so that the mounting flange faces up. Apply slightly more pressure to the lower edge of the diaphragm, and insert the rocker arm link assembly with the cam shoe facing away from the diaphragm. Hook the rocker arm link to the diaphragm actuating rod. 8. Lift one edge of the diaphragm and observe the positioning of the oil seal. If the oil seal is not properly positioned, push the diaphragm into the pump body as far as possible with a slight twisting motion to the diaphragm. This wilf as ;ist the oil seal to position itself propt rly on the diaphragm rod. Do not twist the diaphragm too severely or the rod may be unhooked from the link. 9. Install the rocker arm return spring and hold it in place by cocking the rocker arm slightly. 10. Install the rocker arm pin in the pump body.
FIG. 6-Valve Arrangement A. C. Fuel Pump 13. Alternately and evenly tighten all of the screws. 14. Cover all but one vent hole in the pump lower body, using masking tape or a similar material. 15. Using a suitable vacuum source, apply 15 inches of vacuum (Hg) to the underside of the pump diaphragm at the open vent hole. Use a suitable rubber tipped probe or hose to assure proper sealing at the vent bole. Apply vacuum to the diaphragm 2 times for a minimum of one minute each time. This will position the oil seal properly on the diaphragm rod. Remove the sealing tape from the vents.
FIG. 7 -Rocker Arm Pin Seal Plug Removal
10-66
GROUP 10- FUEL SYSTEM
CARTER PERMANENnY SEALED FUEL PUMPS
DISASSEMBLY The fuel pump assembly is shown in Fig. 2. 1. Scrape away the staking mark and remove the rocker arm pin seal plug as shown in Fig. 7. 2. Release the tension on the rocker arm spring pressure ~nd allow the rocker arm pin to fall out. If the pin does not come out freely, tap the fuel pump assembly lightly on the bench until the pin sticks out of the bore; then, remove the pin with pliers. Remove the rocker arm and spring(s).
CLEANING AND INSPECfJON Clean and inspect the fuel pump component parts. Refer to Cleaning and Inspection (Pagelo-13) for the proper procedure. Replace all worn or damaged parts. ASSEMBLY The fuel pump assembly is shown in Fig. 2. 1. Insert the rocker arm spring into the spring guide bore in the dome of the fuel pump rocker arm cavity.
2. Insert the rocker arm into the cavity and hook it onto the diaphragm rod, directly below the rod ftange. Position the rocker arm spring(s) over the spring locater(s) on the rocker arm. Align the rocker arm pin holes and install the rocker arm pin. Make certain the rocker ann spring(s) Is properly posldoned on the spring locater on the rocker arm. 3. Install a new rocker arm pin plug. Stake the plug into position.
10-67
PART
10·7
AIR CLEANERS Pare
Section
Section
1 Description and Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . 10-67 2 Removal and Installation . . . . . . . . 10•67 Air Cleaner Maintenance . . . . . . 10-67
D
Pap
Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10-67 Cleaning and Inspection . . . . . . . . 10-67 Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10-67
GENERAL
All engines are equipped with conventional dry-type air cleaners that have a replaceable filtering element. The air cleaner body is
EJ AIR CLEANER -
mounted on a sealing gasket located on the carburetor air horn. The air cleaner assembly is retained on the engine 'by a stud on the carburetor body and a wing nut above the filter cover.
Note: A heavy duty air cleaner package which fits over the existing filtering element is available for the 6-cylinder engine.
6 CYLINDER AND 302 VS
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION DESCRIPTION The air cleaners, as fitted to the 6-cylinder 200 and 250 IV engines and the 302-V8 engine, are basically of the same design. The air cleaner tops and filter assemblies are interchangeable between engines; however,
the air cleaner base for the 302 CID engine, whilst being similar to the air cleaner as fitted to the 6-cylinder engines, is not interchangeable. The 250-2V engine has a unique air cleaner with a peripheral air intake.
OPERATION Air from the engine compartment enters the air cleaner assembly through the opening into a silencing chamber and passes through the filter element. Dust particles are trapped in the filter element as the air passes through it. After leaving the filter element, the air is deflected down into the carburettor.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION AIR CLEANER MAINTENANCE Refer to Group 19 for the air cleaner assembly recommended maintenance mileage interval. REMOVAL 1. Remove the wing nut retaining the air cleaner assembly to the carburettor. 2. Remove the air cleaner ass.!mbly from the carburettor. To prevent dirt from entering the carburettor, the filter element must never
be removed when the air cleaner body is mounted on the carburettor. 3. Remove the air cleaner cover and filter element. Discard the air cleaner mounting gasket if it is excessively worn or damaged. 4. Inspect the air cleaner filter as :lescribed on page 10-13. INSTALLATION 1. Install a new air cleaner mounting gasket on the carburettor if req\lired.
2. Position the air cleaner body on the carburettor, ensuring that the body is properly seated on the gasket and located correctly on the carburettor. 3. Place the filter element on the air cleaner body. Make sure the filter is properly seated. The word TOP is indicated on the filter element, make sure the word TOP faces up. Install the cover and tighten the retaining wing nut.
GROUP 10- FUEL SYSTEM
10-68
EJ
HOT AND COLD TYPE AIR INTAKE SYSTEM -
VACUUM OPERATED
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION DESCRIPTION The air cleaners as fitted to the 351C-2V and 351C-4V engines are basically the same design, with the filter elements being interchangeable. The air cleaners feature inlet manifold vacuum operated, bi-metallic switch controlled (Fig. 1), hot and cold type duct and valve assembly. The duct and valve assembly incorporates an access to the underhood area (cold), similar to the conventional type air filter, and has in addition an access connected by means of a flexible pipe to the front of the exhaust manifold housing (hot). OPERATION From initial cold engine start, high inlet manifold vacuum/air pressure difference overcomes the duct butterfly spring tension and closes the duct cold access opening and opens the hot access (from exhaust manifold) opening, as shown in Fig. 2 (A). As the engine warms, the resi.Iltani hot air flowing through the air cleaner causes the thermal-operated bi-metal switch (Fig. 1) to unseat the bleed valve which 'bleeds' vacuum from the duct valve. The reduced vacuum/ air pressure difference is overcome by the spring in the duct valve which pens the cold access (under hood) and closes the hot access (Fig. 2 (B)). Incoming air is filtered through the filtering element as with the conventional dry type air cleaner.
DUCT AND VALVE ASSEMBLY TEST The vacuum-operated duct valve is used on all 351 C engines.
3. Raise the air cleaner and duct assembly and disconnect the vacuum source hose at the bi-metal control valve (inlet manifold side only).
1. The duct valve should be open when the engine is off. 2. Start the engine. The valve should close during engine idle unless the engine has reached normal operating temperature. If the engine is cold and the valve does not close during idle, check for disconnected vacuum lines to the vacuum motor and bimetal switch. Check the bi-metal switch to see that the bleed valve is seated. 3. Open and close the throttle rapidly. The valve should open during throttle opening. If the valve does not function properly, check for a binding condition at the valve. Correct as required. 4. The bi-metal switch can be functionally checked by subjecting the switch to heated air or removing and immersing the switch in water heated to 105-110 degrees F. Only slight movement of the bi-metal is necessary to unseat the bleed valve.
4. Remove the air cleaner and duct assembly from the carburettor: To prevent dirt from entering the carburettor, the filter element must never be removed when the air cleaner body is mounted on the carburettor.
VACUUM OFF
VACUUM ON
FIG. 2- Duct and Valve Assembly HOT AND COLD TYPE VACUUM OPERA TED AIR CLEANER Removal and Installation Refer to Group 19 for the air cleaner assembly recommended maintenance mileage interval.
REMOVAL 1. Remove the wing bolt or nut retaining the air cleaner and duct to the carburettor and remove cover. TO VACUUM SOURCE TO DUCT VALVE MOTOR
FIG. 1.- Bi- Metal Switch
V1231-A
2. Disconnect the crankcase ventilation system hose and loosen the clamp that secures the exhaust shroud hose to the air cleaner duct.
5. Remove the air cleaner cover and filter element. Discard the air cleaner mounting gasket if it is extensively worn or damaged. On the ram air system, inspect the hood-to-air cleaner seal for all-around contact. Replace the gasket or seal if it is worn or damaged. CLEANING AND INSPECTION Refer to Pagel0-13, for the carburetor air cleaner and filter element cleaning and inspection procedure. INSTALLATION 1. Install a new air cleaner to carburettor mounting gasket, if required. On all351 C.I.D. carburettor applications, torque the air cleaner mounting stud to specification. 2. Position the air cleaner and air intake duct and valve assembly on the carburettor and shroud tube. 3. Connect the vacuum source hose at the bi-metal control valve. Secure the clamp attaching the shroud to the air duct. 4. Install a new filter element in the air cleaner body, if required. If the word TOP is indicated on the filter element, make sure the word TOP faces upward. Make sure the filter element is properly seated. Install the air cleaner cover and retaining wing nut HOT AND COLD AIR INTAKE DUCT AND VALVE ASSEMBLY REMOVAL 1. Remove the retaining cap screws that secure the air intake duet and valve assembly to the air cleaner. 2. Remove the air intake duct and valve assembly from the engine. INSTALLATION 1. Install the air intake duct and valve assembly on the exhaust manifold shroud tube. 2. Connect the air inlet duct and valve assembly to the air cleaner and tighten the retaining cap screws.
10-69
PART 10-8
FUEL TANK AND LINES
Section
Paae 1 Description and Operation . . . ... . .. . ...... 10-69 2 Removal and Installation .. . ...... . ...... 10-69 Filler Pipe .... .... .. . .. .. . ... . ........ 10· 69
0
Paae Fuel Tank ... . ............ . ... .. ..... . . 10- 70 Fuel Lines .... . ..... . . .. ..... . . . ....... 10- 70
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
The fuel tanks used on the sedan and station wagon models are located in the cehtre of the rear (luggage compartment) floor and are retained to the floor by screws. The fuel tanks used on the utility and van models are located underneath the floor behind the seat and are retained by retaining straps. The fuel tank sender unit for the sedan and station wagon models is accessible from underneath the car. The fuel tank sender unit for the van and utility is accessible by re-
EJ
Section
moving the fuel tank cover set into the floor of the carrying compartment. The fuel outlet line is fastened to a connecting hose that is attached to a line which enters the fuel tank through the sender unit assembly. A filter is located in the tank on the fuel line pick-up tube. THIS FILTER DOES NOT REQUIRE SERVICING. The fuel tank filler pipe on the sedan and wagon is located in the left rear quarter panel. On the utility and van the filler pipe is located on
the left-hand body side lower. The fuel tank filler pipe on all models is attached to the tank inlet pipe with a hose and hose clamps. The fuel line, -{,; in. o.d. tube (except for the 351C engine, which has i in. o.d. tube) is routed from the fuel tank, passing beneath the left side of the underbody; then, under the left fender and through the forward part of the fender apron. The complete fuel line is not normally replaced as a unit, only the damaged segments are usually replaced.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
FILLER PIPE SEDAN Removal 1. Drain the fuel tank with a siphon to a level below the filler pipe opening in the tank. The fuel should be drained into a suitable clean container. 2. Remove the retaining screws securing the filler pipe to the body panel. 3. Loosen the hose clamp and loosen the hose from the filler pipe. 4. Rotate the filler pipe and pull it outward to remove it from the fuel tank.
Installation 1. If necessary install new hose clamps on the filler pipe hose. 2. Place a bead of sealer on the filler pipe flange. 3. Position the filler pipe in the body panel and slide the hose onto the filler pipe. 4. Install and tighten the filler pipe retaining screws. 5. Tighten the hose clamp and
install the siphoned fuel back in the fuel tank. FILLER PIPE - STATION WAGON The station wagon has an upper filler pipe and hose and a lower filler pipe and hose. See Fig. 2. Removal I. Drain the fuel tank to a level below the filler pipe opening in the fuel tank. 2. Remove the inside quarter trim panel and loosen the upper hose clamp. 3. Remove the filler ca-p and the filler pipe retaining screws. 4·. Pull the upper filler pipe through the body. 5. Lift the floor panel to gain access to the spare wheel well and loosen the clamps on the lower filler pipe hose. 6. Prise the two large rubber grommets from the floor member and extract the lower filler pipe through the quarter panel access hole.
7. Pull the lower hose from the fuel tank inlet. Installation 1. Place the lower hose on the fuel tank inlet. Position the hose clamps. 2. Place the lower filler pipe in position in the body side member and fit the two large grommets. Work the pipe into the lower hose. 3. Working through the quartci· panel access hole fit the upper hose to the lower filler pipe. 4. Place a 3/ 16" bead of sealer on body panel opening and insert the upper filler pipe through the ~ody panel. Work the pipe into the upper hose. 6. Replace and tighten the filler pipe flange screws. 7. Tighten all hose clamps. 8. Lower the spare wheel cover panel and replace the quarter trim panel. 9. Place the siphoned fuel back in the fuel tank and replace the filler cap.
10-70 FUEL TANK- STATION WAGON
Removal 1. Siphon the fuel from the fuel tank into a suitable container. 2. Remove the cargo compartment mat, spare wheel cover panel and the spare wheel. 3. Disconnect the fuel gauge sending unit wire at the sending unit. 4. Loosen the hose clamp, slide the clamp forward and disconnect the fuel line at the fuel gauge sending unit. 5. If the fuel gauge sending unit is to be removed, turn the unit retaining ring counterclockwise and remove the sending unit retaining. ring and gasket. 6. Loosen the inlet pipe to tank connecting hose clamps and pull the hose clear of the tank inlet pipe. 7. Remove the fuel tank to floor pan retaining screws and remove the fuel tank. Installation 1. Make sure all the old sealer has been removed from the fuel tank mounting flange and mounting surface at the floor pan. Apply caulking cord to the fuel tank mounting surface at the floor pan. 2. Position the fuel tank to the floor pan and install the retaining screws. 3. Position the hose to the fuel tank inlet pipe and tighten the hose clamps. 4. If the fuel gauge sending unit was removed, make sure all the old gasket material has been removed from the unit mounting surface on the fuel tank. Using a new gasket, position the fuel gauge to the fuel tank and secure with the retaining ring. 5. Connect the fuel gauge sending unit wire to the sending unit. 6. Connect the fuel line at the fuel gauge sending unit and tighten the hose clamps securely. 7. Fill the tank and check all connections for leaks. 8. Replace the spare wheel cover panel and the cargo compartment mat. FUEL TANK UTE AND VAN Removal 1. Siphon the fuel from the fuel tank into a suitable container. 2. Remove the fuel tank cover set into the floor of the carrying compartment. 3. Disconnect the fuel gauge sending unit wire at the sending unit.
GROUP 10- FUEL SYSTEM 4. Loosen the hose clamp, slide the clamp forvard and disconnect the fuel line at the fuel gauge sending unit. 5. If the fuel gauge sending unit is to be removed, turn the unit retaining ring counterclockwise and remove the sending unit retaining ring and gasket. 6. Loosen the clamps on the fuel filler pipe rubber hose and remove the hose from the filler tank inlet. 7. Loosen the vent pipe hose clamp at the tank and move pipe clear of the tank. 8. Remove the tank retaining screws and lift out the tank. Installation 1. Place the fuel tank in position, install and tighten the retaining screws. _ 2. Refit the rubber hose to the fuel tank inlet and tighten the clamps. 3. If the fuel gauge sending unit was removed, make sure all the old gasket material has been removed from the unit mounting surface on the fuel tank. Using a new gasket, position the sending unit to the fuel tank and secure with the retaining ring. 4. Connect the fuel gauge sending umt wire to the sending unit. 5. Connect the fuel line at the fuel gauge sending unit and tighten the clamps securely. 6. Fill the tank and check all connections for leaks. 7. Replace the fuel tank cover in the floor of the carrying compartment.
They must be cut, squared and formed out of rolls of fuel system service tubing and hose material available at dealershipf>. A damaged section of tubing longer than 12 inches can be cut out of the existing line and replaced by a comparable service tubing section, spliced into the line by means of connecting hoses and retaining clamps. A damaged section of tubing shorter than 12 inches can be cut out of the line and replaced by a length of service hose and two retaining clamps. All replacement hoses must be cut to a length that will ensure proper clamp retention beyond the flared ends of the connecting tubing.
REMOVAL 1. Drain the fuel from the tank. 2. Disconnect the line at the fuel gauge sender unit and the fuel pump. Remove the lines from the holding clips along the underbody. Remove all damaged hose sections and tube sections.
INSTALLATION 1. Cut a new section of tubing to approximately the same length as the section to be replaced. Allow eztra length for flaring the ends of the tubing. Square the ends of the cut tubing with a file. 2. Ream the inside edges of the cut tubing with the reamer blade on the tube cutter. Be sure metal chips are removed from inside the tube(s). Flare the ends of the cut tubing, as required, with a standard tube flaring kit and tool (Fig. 5). 3. Bend the tube section to conform to the contour of the original tube. Cut an ample length of hose to form a coupling between the flared ends of the fuel lines. Connect the hose couplings to the tubing and install the retaining clamps. 4. Position the lines in the underbody clips and tighten the clips. Connect the line to the fuel gauge sender unit and the fuel pump. Fill the tank and check for leaks. FILLER PIPE
11917-A
FIG. 5-Fuel Line Tube Die FUEL LINES
The various fuel lines (Figs. 1, 2, 3 & 4) are not serviced as a~semblies.
UTILITY AND VAN The utility and van have an upper filler pipe and hose and a lower filler pipe and hose. In addition they both have an external vent pipe between the fuel tank and the upper ftller pipe. See Fig. 3.
PART 10-8-FUEL TANK AND LINES Removal 1. Drain the fuel tank to a level below the filler pipe opening iu th e fuel tank. 2. Remove the floor panel in the cargo area. 3. Remove the body side access panel behind the filler pipe. 4. Remove the vent pipe to filler pipe hose . 5. Loosen the filler pipe hose clamps. 6. Remove the filler pipe retaining screws. 7. Remove the upper filler pipe through the body opening. 8. Remove the lower filler pipe and hoses through the body access hole. The vent pipe may also be removed through the access hole if desired . Installation 1. Place the lower hose and clamps on the fuel tank inlet. 2. Insert the lower filler pipe through the access hole and into the lower hose. 3. Place the upper hose and cla~ps on the lower pipe. 4. Place a 3/16" bead of sealer on the filler pipe flange and insert the pipe through the body opening. Work the pipe into the upper hose and install the flange retaining screws. 5. Connect the vent pipe to the upper filler pipe.
6. Tighten all hose clamps. 7. Replace the floor panel and the body access panel. 8. Replace the siphoned fuel in the fuel tank and fit the filler cap. FUEL TANK The fuel tank installations are shown in Figs. 1, 2, 3 and 4. SEDAN Removal 1. Siphon the fuel from the fuel tank into a suitable container. 2. Disconnect the fuel gauge sending unit wire at the sending unit. 3. Loosen the hose clamp, slide the clamp forward and disconnect the fuel line at the fuel gauge sending unit. 4. If the fuel gauge sending unit is to be removed, turn the unit retaining ring cmmterclockwise and remove the sending unit retaining ring anq gasket. 5. Remove the spare tyre from the luggage compartment. 6. Remove the fuel tank filler neck retaining screws. 7. Loosen the filler neck to tank hose clamps. Remove the filler neck, and filler neck to tank hose. 8 Remove the fuel tank to luggage compartment floor pan retaining screws and remove the fuel t~k.
10-71
Installation 1. Make sure all the old sealer has been removed from the fuel tank mounting flange and mounting surface at the luggage compartment floor pan. Apply caulking cord to the fuel tank mounting surface at the luggage compartment floor pan. 2. Position the fuel tank to the luggage compartment floor pan and install the retaining screws. . 3. Place a 3/16" bead of sealer around the filler neck flange . Position the hose and filler neck assembly to the body panel. Position the hose to the fuel tank neck. 4. Install the filler neck to body panel retaining screws and tighten the hose clamps. 5. If the fuel gauge sending unit was removed, make sure all the old gasket material has been removed from the unit mounting surface on the fuel tank. Using a new gasket, position the sending unit to the fuel tank and secure with the retaining ring. 6. Install the spare tyre and position the luggage compartment floor mat. 7. Connect the fuel gauge sending unit wire to the sending unit. 8. Connect the fuel line at the fuel gauge sending unit and tighten the hose clamps securely. 9. Remove the safety stands and lower the car. 10. Fill the tank and check all connections for leaks.
10-72
PART 10-9
SPECIFICATIONS
CARBURETTORS
NOTE: All Specifications are given in inches unless otherwise noted.
The basic part number of all the carburettors is 9510. The part number prefix and suffix appear on the identification tag mounted on the carburettor.
Always refer to the Master Parts Catalogue for parts usage and interchangeability before rep I acing a carburettor or a component part of a carburettor.
Carburettor Application and General Information. STANDARD AND AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS
200 and 250 IV Six Engines
Carburettor Model
200 C.I.D.
250 C.I.D.
Stromberg 8V2
Stromberg 80V2
Identification (Rubber Stamp on Float Chamber)-Manual (Auto) 200 8 (200 A)
250 8 (250 A)
Venturi diameter
1-5/32
1-9/32
Main discharge jet
28-25
28-25
High speed bleeder
No. 70
No. 70
Main metering jet
.058
.067
Power bypass jet
No. 55
2 X No. 54
Pump discharg·e jet
No. 67
No. 67
Idle discharge hole
No. 55
No. 55
Idle tube feed hole
No. 71
No. 67
Idle air bleed
0.049
0.051
Float-needle valve seat
0.073
0.073
Main metering jet for high altitudes over 4,000 ft.
0.05
0.064
Fuel level below top face of main body at 500 rpm
5/8" -11 /16"
5/8" -11 /16"
*Accelerating Pump Stroke- Manual Transmission -Auto. Transmission
.275-.310 .190-.225
.275-.310 .190-.225
Choke plate pull down clearance
.090-.100
.190-. 200
*Vent valve lift
.050-.060
.050-.060
575-600rpm
575-600 rpm
500-525 rpm
500-525 rpm
Engine Idle Speeds
-Manual
-Auto. (Air conditioning operating if equipped and headlights on high beam)
* Measured from _vehicle idle position. not fully closed throttle. NOTE: Original idle limiter cap colour red- Service replacement cap colour black.
PART 10-9- SPECIFICATIONS 250 C.I ,D. Manual and Auto 250M
Bendix Stromberg WW2 Identification -
Rubber Stamp on Float Chamber
10-73 302 C.I.D. Manual and Auto
cv
CARBURETTOR SIZE Throttle Bore Diameter
1 -7/16
1-7/16
Venturi Diameter
1-3/16
1-3/16
Float Level Setting (Wet)
19/32-21/32
19/32-21/32
Float Chamber Vent Lift (at Hot Idle Setting)
.050-.080
.050- .080
No. 59
No. 69
Main Jet
.052
.051
High Speed Bleed
No. 70
No. 70
Power Jet-1st Stage
.028
.032
.067
.059
12-10 Ins. Vac.
12-10 Ins. Vac.
7-3 Ins. Vac.
12-10 Ins. Vac.
Lower hole
Lower hole
14-18
14-18
Thermostat Cover Index
Mean
Mean
Thermostat Lever
1.094
1.094
Modulator
.03
.03
Vacuum Kick
.160
.150
Cam Index
.160
.160
Wide open Throttle Kick
.250
.250
FUEL INLET SYSTEM
IDLE SYSTEM Idle tube MAIN FUEL SYSTEM
-2nd Stage Power Jet Operation-1st Stage -2nd Stage PUMP SYSTEM Pump link position Accelerator Pump Shot/1 0 Strokes (cc.) AUTOMATIC CHOKE SETTINGS
TUNE-UP SPECIFICATIONS
Auto
500-525
475-500
Engine Idle Speed RPM
Manual
575-600
525-550
(Air Conditioning Operating if Equipped and Head Lights on High Beam) Fast Idle RPM- Kick Down Step
Manual Auto
1350 1450
1150 1350
NOTE :-Idle tubes must be removed before removing main discharge tubes or jets are ruined. NOTE: Original idle limiter cap colour red- Service replacement cap colour black.
GROUP 10- FUEL SYSTEM
10-74
MOTORCRAFT Model 2100-0 2-V Carburettor
Carburetor Number (95101 CARBURETOR SIZE Throttle Bore Diameter Venturi diameter Air Flow (cfml FUEL INLET SYSTEM Fuel Level (Wetl ± 1/32 Float Setting (Dryl ± 1/32 FUEL BOWL VENTS Internal (21 IDLE SYSTEM Idle Jet Idle Bleed Idle Channel Restriction Idle Discharge Port Idle Transfer Slot Support Identification MAIN FUEL SYSTEM Main Metering Jet High Speed Bleed Anti-Syphon Bleed Power Jet Power Valve Timing (ln. Hg.l Power Valve Identification Air Distribution Plate Spark Port PUMP SYSTEM Rod Position - Overtravel Lever Pump Lever Capacity/1 0 Strokes Pump Jet Diameter Pump Bleed Pump Weight CHOKE SYSTEM Bi-metal & Cap Identification Cap Setting Pull down Setting ± .010 Idle Cam Clearance Dechoke (Minimuml Choke Air Restriction Cam Identification DASH POT Adjustment - If equipped ± 1/64 IDLE SPEED Idle rpm• Fast Idle rpm - Kickdown Step TORQUE REQUIREMENT Air Cleaner Anchor Screw •
DOO~:_AAuto
B18F1 F- ~AA Manual
1.68 1.23 351
1.68
13/16 7/16
13/16 7/16
0.400
0.031 0 .110 0 .052 0 .089 0.030-0.200 SA 54F 0.038 0.031 0 .037 8 .5 Plain Yes 0.050
1.21 351
(}.400
0.028 0.110 0.046 0.089 O.OJQ-0.200 CCB 61F 0.38 .100 0.045 7.5 Green Yes 0.05X 0.085
No.4 B-lnboard 23.28 0 .031 0.012 Steel
No.3 Inboard 2Q-25 0.031 0.012 Alum.
TB4 1 Rich .16-.18 . 14-.16 0.060 0.076 B
TB3 Index 0.240 0.210 0.060 0.093 B
1/8
550-575 1500 11-16 Ft.lbs.
1/8
575 500• 1500 11-16 Ft.lbs.
Head lamps On - Air Conditioning On (If equipped I
NOTE: Original idle limiter cap colour white- Service replacement cap colour blue.
10-75
PART 10-9. SPECIFICATIONS MOTORCRAFT Model 4300 4-V Carburettor
888~ =~~ (Manual) '
DOOF - AC (Auto)
1.560 1.690 1.250 600
1.560 1.690 1.250 600
1
Carburetor Number (9510) CARBURETOR SIZE Throttle Bore Diameter - Primary -Secondary Venturi Diameter - Primary Air Flow (cfm) FUEL INLET SYSTEM Float Setting ± 1/32 Supplemental (Aux i liary) Valve Setting ± 1 /64
. 79-.85
1/16
1/16
FUEL BOWL VENTS Internal (2)
7/32
7/32
IDLE SYSTEM Idle Jet Idle Bleed - 1st -2nd -3rd Idle Channel Restriction Idle Discharge Port Idle Transfer Slot
0.026 0.046 None None None 0.082 0.028
0.026 0.055 None None None 0.082 0.028
MAIN FUEL SYSTEM Main Metering Jet- Primary -Secondary High Speed Bleed - Primary -Secondary Anti Syphon Bleed - Primary - Secondary Power Valve Jet Power Valve Timing- ln. Hg. Air Valve Spring Color Soark Port
61F 0.128 0.031 0.024
62F 0.128 0.035 0.024
0.022 0.059 7.5-8.5 Yellow 0.065
0.022 0.059 6-7 Yellow 0.065
PUMP SYSTEM Lever Position (Hole Number) Capacity/1 0 Strokes - cc ± 2cc Pump Jet Pump Stem Height± 0.020 Pump Spring Color
2 15 0.028 0.425 Plain
2 18-8 0 .028 0.425 Plain
CHOKE SYSTEM Bi-metal and Cap Identification Cap Setting Pulldown Setting Fast Idle Cam Setting Piston and Link Identification Dechoke (Minimum) Choke Air Restriction Cam Identification
4TY Index .180 .160 No .2 0.300 0.078 K
4TX Index .200 .180 No.2 0.300 0.078 K
DASH POT Adjustment (If Equipped)
0.080
0.080
650 675
550 575 550 1400
IDLE SPEED Idle rpm* Fast Idle rprn
•
79-.85
600 1250
Headlights on High beam- Air Conditioning on (if equipped)
NOTE: Original idle limiter cap colour white- Service replacement cap colour blue.
.
10-76
GROUP
10- FUEL SYSTEM
CARBURETTOR AIR CLEANERS
Engme Application
Color /Description
Type
351 C-4V (GT)
Blue
Dry
351 C-2V
Blue
Dry
302 C.I.D. VB
Blue
Dry
200 & 250 C.I.D. IV
Blue Orange
Dry Dry
250 2V MECHANICAL FUEL PUMPS
Fuel Pump Static Pressure-Psi @ 500 Engine rpm
8 Cyl.
6 Cyl.
4-6
3.5-5.0
Minimum Fuel Pump Volume-Flow@ 500 Engine rpm
All 6-Cyl.
1 pint in 36 seconds
8-Cyl.
1 pint in 24 seconds
Minimum Intake Static Vacuum -
Inches of
Mercury@ 500 Engine rpm
. 6.0
All Eccentric Total Lift
All 6-Cyl.
0.290-0.310
8-Cyl.
0.690-0.710
Fuel Tank Capacities
Sedan (incl. GT)
17.5 IMP. GALLONS
Station Wagon
16.0 IMP. GALLONS
Utility and Van
16.0 IMP. GALLONS
(RPO-GT only)
30.0 IMP. GALLONS
FALCON FAIRLANE w~:~~~~P
COOLING SYSTEM
GROUP 11
PAGE
PART 11-1- General Cooling System Service
11-2
PART 11-2-Water Pump and Fan Drive Clutch 11-5 PART 11-3-Radiator
11-10
PART 11-4-Specifications
11- 11
11-2
PART 11-1
GENERAL COOLING SYSTEM SERVICE
Section
Page
1 Diagnosis and Testing Trouble Diagnosis Guide Cooling System Pressure Test Thermostat Tests 2 Maintenance Coolant-Cleaning Cooling System Draining and Filling the Cooling System Fan Drive Belts
This part covers general cooling system service. For cooling system
D
11-2 11-2
11-3 11-3 11-3 11-3 11-3 11-3
Section
Page
3 Common Adjustments and Repairs Drive Belts Fan Replacement Fan Drive Belt Replacement Radiator Hose Replacement Thermostat Replacement
component removal, disassembly, assembly, installation, major repair
11-4 11-4 11-4 11-4 11-4 11-4
procedures and specifications, refer to the pertinent part of this group.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS
Engine overheating and slow engine warm-up are the two engine troubles most commonly attributed to the cooling system. Loss of coolant, thermostat stuck in the closed position, restricted air flow through the radiator, or accumulation of rust and scale in the system are the main causes of overheating. Coolant Joss may, be due to external leakage at the radiator, radiator pressure cap, water pump, hose connections, heater, or core
plugs. Coolant loss may also be caused by internal leakage due to a defective cylinder head gasket, improper tightening of the cylinder head bolts, or warped cylinder head or block gasket surfaces. Internal leakage can be detected by operating the engine at fast idle and looking for the formation of bubbles in the radiator. Oil in the radiator may indicate leakage in the engine block or a leak in the automatic transmission oil cooler. Water formation on the oil level dipstick
could also be an indication of internal leakage. Rust and scale that form in the engine water passages are carried into the radiator passages by the circulation of the coolant. This clogs the radiator passages and causes overheating. Rust can be detected by the appearance of the coolant. If the coolant has a rusty or muddy appearance, rust is present. A defective thermostat that remains open will cause slow engine warm-up.
TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS GUIDE. ENGINE OVERHEATS
Belt tension incorrect. Radiator fins obstructed. Thermostat stuck closed, or otherwise defective. Cooling system passages blocked ENGINE FAILS TO REACH NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE OR HAS WRONG INDICATED TEMPERATURE
Thermostat stuck open or of incorrect heat range. Temperature sending unit defective (causing gauge to indicate low engine temperature).
by rust, scale or other foreign matter. Water pump inoperative. Ignition initial timing incorrect. Distributor advance incorrect.
Temperature gauge defective (not indicating true engine temperature) or incorrectly installed. Incorrect temperature gauge indication.
PART 11-1- GENERAL COOLING SYSTEM SERVICE
LOSS OF COOLANT
TESTING
COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TEST It is recommended that a cooling system pressure test gauge be used to properly test the system for: 1.. Blown or leaking cooling system sealing gaskets. 2. Internal or external coolant leakage. 3. Pressure cap malfunction. Many types of pressure gauges are available for use. Therefore, it is recommended that the gauge manu-
EJ
Leaking radiator, radiator supply tank, or transmission oil cooler. Loose or damaged hose connections. Water pump leaking. Cylinder head gasket defective. Improper tightening of cylinder facturer's instructions be followed when performing the test. Never exceed the rated pressure indicated on the pressure cap when performing the pressure test. THERMOSTAT TESTTHERMOSTAT REMOVED It is good practice to test new thermostats before installing them in the engine. Remove the thermostat and immerse it in boiling water. Replace the thermostat if it does not open more than '14 inch.
11-3
head bolts. Cylinder block core plugs leaking. Cracked cylinder head or block, or warped cylinder head C?r block gasket surface. Radiator pressure cap defective or wrong type. If the problem being investigated is insufficient heat, the thermostat should be checked for leakage. This may be done by holding the thermostat up to a lighted background. Light leakage around the thermostat valve (thermostat at room temperature) is unacceptable and the thermostat should be replaced. It is possible, on some thermostats, that a slight leakage of light at one or two locations on the perimeter of the
valve may be detected. This should be considered normal.
GENERAL MAINTENANCE
COOLANT
Correct coolant level is essential for maximum circulation and adequate cooling. In addition, for the cooling system to perform its function, it must receive proper care. This includes periodic flushing of the entire system, keeping radiator fins clean, and periodic inspection of the cooling system for leakage. Use care when removing the radiator cap, to avoid injury from escaping steam or hot water. Radiator caps incorporate a red pressure relief button. Press this button to relieve internal pressure before removing the cap. To prevent the build up of rust, sludge and other foreign material in the cooling system, Ford radiator inhibitor should be added to the coolant. If it is found necessary to remove build up of foreign material from the cylinder block or radiator owing to neglect of adding an inhibitor, use Ford radiator cleaner Rl-64. Removal of such material restores cooling efficiency and avoids over-heatmg. In severe cases where cleaning solvents will not properly clean the cooling system for efficient operation, it will be necessary to use the pressure flushing method. Various types of flushing equipment are available. If pressure flushing is used, make sure the cylinder
head bolts are properly tightened to prevent possible water leakage into the cylinders. Always remove the thermostat prior to pressure flushing. A pulsating or reversed direction of flushing water flow will loosen sediment more quickly than a steady flow in the normal direction of coolant flow. DRAINING AND FILLING THE COOLING SYSTEM To prevent loss of anti-freeze when draining the radiator, attach a hose on the radiator drain cock and drain the anti-freeze from the radiator into a clean container. To drain the radiator, open the drain cock located at the bottom of the radiator. The 6-cylinder engine block has one drain plug located at the right rear of the cylinder block, ahead of the starter (Fig. 1). The V -8 engines have a drain plug on each side of the cylinder block. To fill the cooling system, close the drain cock. Install the block drain plug(s). Disconnect the heater outlet hose at the water pump to bleed or release trapped air in the system. When the coolant begins to escape, connect the heater outlet hose. Operate the engine until normal operating temperature is reached, and add more coolant, if necessary, to fill the radiator to the proper
DRAIN PLUG
FIG. 1-Typical Cylinder Block Drain Plug level, one inch below bottom of filler neck. After the initial fill the coolant level may drop approximately one quart after the engine has been operated about 20 minutes at 2000 rpm. This is due to the displacement of entrapped air. Refill to the proper level. FAN DRIVE BELTS If the fan drive belt(s) are noisy, check the tension of the belts to make certain they are within specifications. Also, check for misaligned pulleys. If the drive belts are worn or frayed, replace them following the procedures in Page 11-4.
11-4
EJ
GROUP 11- COOLING SYSTEM COMMON ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
ADJUSTMENTS DRIVE BELTS The fan drive belt(s) should be properly adjusted at all times. A loose drive belt(s) causes improper alternator, fan and water pump operation. A belt(s) that is too tight places a severe strain on the water pump and the alternator bearings. Properly tensioned drive belts minimize noise and also prolong service life of the belt. Therefore, it is recommended that a belt tension gauge be used to check and adjust the belt tension. Any belt that has operated for a minimum of 10 minutes is considered a used belt, and when adjusted, it must be adjusted to the reset tension shown in the spedcations. Belt Tension 1. Install the belt tension tool on
the drive belt (Fig. 2) and check the tension following the instructions of the tool manufacturer. Tooi-T63L·8620·A
TO INSTALL 1. Position the fan and spacer on the water pump hub and install the lock washers and capscrews. 2. Torque the capscrews evenly and alternately to specifications. 3. Refit the fan shroud if applicable . 4. Adjust the fan belt to specification.
FAN DRIVE BELT REPLACEMENT 1. On a car with power steering, loosen power steering pump bracket at water pump. Remove drive belt. 2. Loosen alternator mounting and adjusting arm bolts. Move alternator toward engine. Remove the belt(s) from alternator and crankcase pulleys, and lift them over fan. 3. Place the belt(s) over the fan. Insert the belt(s) in the water pump pulley, crankshaft pulley and alternator pulley grooves. Adjust the belt tension to specifications. 4. On a car with power steering, install the power steering pump drive belt and tighten the pump bracket to the water pump. Adjust the drive belt tension to specifications.
RADIATOR HOSE REPLACEMENT
FIG. 2-Checking Drive Belt Tension 2. If adjustment is necessary loosen alternator mounting and adjusting arm bolts. Move alternator away from engine until correct tension is obtained. Tighten alternator adjusting arm and mounting bolts. FAN REPLACEMENT ALL MODELS TO REMOVE 1. Loosen the fan belt. 2. If a fan sl·.;o ud is fitted remove it from the radiator and lay it back against the engine. 3. Remove capscrews and lock washers retaining fan and spacer to the water pump hub . Remove the fan and spacer.
Radiator hoses should be replaced whenever they become cracked, rotted or have a tendency to collapse. 1. Drain radiator; then loosen the clamps at each end of hose to be removed . Slide hose off radiator connection and the cylinder head water outlet or water pump connection. 2. Position the clamps at least t " from each end of hose. Slide hose on the connections. Make sure the clam?S are beyond bead and placed in the centre of clamping surface of connections. Tighten clamps. Fill radiator with coolant. Operate engine for several minutes; then check the hoses and connections for leaks. Check for proper coolant level after the engine has reached normal operating temperature.
THERMOSTAT REPLACEMENT A poppet-type thermostat is mounted in a recess in the coolant outlet passage at the front of the intake manifold on the V-8 engines. On 6-cylinder engines, the thermostat is located in the coolant outlet passage at the front of the cylinder head. When the thermostat is closed, coolant flows to the water pump through a bypass passage at the front of the engine. When the thermostat is open, coolant flows through the coolant outlet elbow (thermostat housing) to the radiator. The thermostat used in production is for use with water or permanenttype anti-freeze. For operating temperatures, refer to specifications. Check the thermostat before inslalling it following the procedure under "Thermostat Test", Page 11-3. Do not attempt to repair the thermostat. It should be replaced if it is not operating properly. Removal 1. Drain cooling system below level of the coolant outlet housing. 2. Remove coolant outlet housing retaining bolts and slide housing (with hose attached) to one side. 3. Remove thermostat and gasket. Installation
1. Clean coolant outlet housing and cylinder head surface. Coat a new coolant outlet housing gasket with sealer. Position gasket on cylinder head or intake manifold (V -8). The gasket must be positioned on cylinder head or intake manifold before thermostat is installed. 2. Coat edge of thermostat with grease for thermostat adhesion. Position thermostat in recess of coolant outlet housing so that copper pellet or heat element will be in the cylinder head or intake manifold (V-8). Install thermostat with the word TOP toward the top of the engine and valve end of thermostat facing outward. If thermostat is improperly positioned, it will cause the engine to overheat. 3. Fill radiator. Operate engine and check for coolant leaks and proper coolant level after engine reaches normal operating temperature.
11-5
PART 11-2
WATER PUMP Page
Section 1 Description and Operation 2 Removal and Installation Six C~· linde r Engines V8 Engines
D
Major Repair Operations
11-6
Six Cylinder Engines
11-6
V8 Engines Fan Drive Clutch
11-8 11-8
engine when the thermostat is closed, bypassing the radiator. On the 6cylinder engines, the water pump bypass passage is aligned with the bypass passage in the cylinder block for coolant circulation in the engine when the thermostat is dosed. A vane-type, impeller supplies coolant through centrifugal action to the water pump outlet port on 6-cylinder engines. On the V-8 engines, the water pump has two out-
let ports, one for each cylinder bank, to provide uniform coolant circulation in both banks of the engine. The water pumps have a sealed bearing integral with the water pump shaft. The bearing requires no lubrication. A bleed hole in the water pump housing allows water that may leak past the seal to be thrown out by the slinger. This is not a lubrication hole. The cooling fan hub is pressed a specified distance onto the water pump shaft.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
SIX CYLINDER ENGINES REMOVAL 1. Drain the cooling system.
On a car with power steering. remove the power steering drive belt. 2. Disconnect the radiator lower hose at the water pump. Remove the drive belt, fan, spacer and water pump pulley.
3. Disconnect the heater hose at the water pump. 4. Remove the water pump. INSTALLATION
1. Clean the gasket surfaces on the water pump and cylinder block. l. Coat a new gasket on both sides with water-resistant sealer and position it on the cylinder block. 3. Position the water pump in place and install the lock washers and retaining bolts (the alternator adjusting arm is retained by one water pump · bolt). Torque the bolts lO specifications.*
*
3
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
On 6-cylinder engines, a centrifugal-type water pump is mounted on the front of the cylinder block. On V-8 engines, the centrifugal-type water pump is mounted on the cylinder front cover. The water pump inlet port is connected to the radiator bottom tank to draw coolant from the radiator when the thermostat is open. On the V-8 engines, a bypass port on the water pump is connected to the coolant outlet housing to permit coolant circulation within the
El
11-5 11-5 11-5 11-5
Page
Section
4. Connect the radiator lower hose and the heater hose to the water pump. 5. Install the water pump pulley, fan spacer and fan . Torque the bolts evenly and alternately to specifications. 6. Install ihe drive belt and adjust the tension to specifications. On a car with power steering, install the drive belt and adjust the tension to specifications. On a car with air conditioner, install the compressor drive belt and adjust the tension to specifications. 7. Fill and bleed the cooling system . Operate the engine until normal operating temperature is reached. Check for leaks and check the coolant level. V-8 ENGINES REMOVAL
1. Drain the cooling system and disconnect the battery. 2. Remove the fan shroud attach-
ing bolts and pos1t1on the shroud rearward if so equipped. 3. Remove the fan and spacer from the water pump shaft. 4. Remove the air conditioner compressor drive belt lower idler pulley and compressor mount to water pump bracket, if so equipped. 5. Loosen the alternator and remove the drive belt. 6. If equipped with power steering, loosen the power steering pump and remove the drive belt. 7. Remove the water pump pulley. 8. Remove alternator bracket from water pump and position it out of the way. 9. If.equipped with power steering, remove the power steering pump bracket from the water pump and position it out of the way. 10. Remove the heater hose from the water pump. 11. Disconnect the lower radiator hose at the water pump. 12. Remove the water pump at-
CAUTION: -When installing pump retaining bolts ensure that the longest bolt is fitted to the hole where the alternator mounting bracket is located, otherwise damage to the engine block will occur.
GROUP 11- COOLING SYSTEM
11-6 taching bolts and remove the water pump. INSTALLATION 1. Remove all gasket material from the mounting surfaces of the cylinder front cover and water pump. 2. Position a new gasket, coated on both sides with sealer, on the cylinder front cover; then install the pump. Coat the threads of the attaching screws with oil-resistant sealer and install the screws. Tighten the attach-
EJ
ing screws to specifications. 3. Install the air conditioner compressor to water pump bracket and lower idler pulley, if so equipped. 4. Position the alternator bracket and power steering pump bracket, if so equipped, on the water pump and install the bracket bolts. 5. Position the water pump pulley on the water pump shaft and install the drive belts. 6. Place the fan shroud over the pulley and install the fan and spacer.
7. Install the fan shroud attaching bolts, if so equipped. 8. Adjust the drive belts to specifications. 9. Connect the lower radiator hose at the water pump. 10. Connect the heater hose at the water pump. 11. Connect the battery cable. Fill and bleed the cooling system. Operate the engine until normal operating temperature has been reached and check for leaks.
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS (6 Cyl. Engines)
DISASSEMBLY The water pump assembly is shown in Fig. 1. 1. Remove the hub from the impeller shaft (Fig. 9).
2. Position the pump on an arbor press and press the shaft and bearing out of the housing (Fig. 3), using the straight end of tool T70PG-8530-A. 3. Remove the impeller from the shaft (Fig. 4). ASSEMBLY 1. Clean all gasket material from the pump.
6. Support the assembly on the impeller end of the shaft. Position the water pump hub over the shaft and press it into place, (Fig. 8), holding the specified distance from the housing mounting face to the hub front face. T70PG-8530-A .
2. Coat the bearing outer diameter with grease, and position the shaft and bearing on the housing. Using the flanged end of tool T70PG~ 8530-A against the bearing, press the shaft and bearing assembly into the housing until the outer end of the bearing is flush with the outer face of the pump housing to within ±.003 inches.
FIG. 1- Water Pump 6 Cyl. 3. Apply a light film of waterproof sealer on a new s~l an~ press the seal into the housmg (F1g. 6), using tool T70PG-8564-A.
FIG. 3-Shaft and Bearina Removal 4.- Replace the impeller if it is worn or damaged.
NOTE If the water pump seal is removed from the pump or shaft for any reason a new seal must be fitted on reassembly.
FIG. 2- Hub Removal
5. Press the shaft into the impeller (Fig. 7). The impeller rear face to pump mounting surface ~hould ~e 0.525-0.535 inch after the 1mpeller 1s installed as shown in the assembly drawing (Fig. 1).
FIG. 4 -Impeller Removal
PART 11-2- WATER PUMP
11-7
Arbor Preu Rom
AND BEARING
IMPELLER
FIG. 5- Shaft and Bearing Installation
FIG.7-Impeller Installation
FIG. 8 - Hub Installation
Drift
SMALLER DIAMETER THAN S~IAFT
FIG. 6- Seal Installation 6 Cyl. FIG. 9 -Hub Removal
GROUP 11- COOLING SYSTEM
11-8
_ _ _ _ _ 6·/,8:_ _ _..... 6·14~
1 - - - - - - 5·70'' - - - o - i
·050"
• THIS DIMENSION ·030"" MUST BE-MAINTAINED FROM EXTREME SURFACE OF IMPELLER
FIG. 10-302-351 VB Water Pump Assembly Dimensions
FIG. 11 -Water Pump Removal 302-351 WATER PUMP OVERHAUL DISASSEMBLY 1. Position the pump on an arbor press and press the hub off the shaft. 2. Press the shaft and impeller and the seal assembly out of the housing using a cylindrical support. NOTE: The impeller cannot be separated from the shaft without damage to the ceramic seal face and a new ceramic seal must be fitted should the impeller be removed. Should a steel impeller be fitted, pressure may only be applied to sleeve of the impeller.
CAUTION Do not allow oil or grease to contact the ceramic seal face. 4. Position the impeller on the shaft and press impeller and ceramic seal on to shaft until a dimension of 6.138/6.146 is obtained from the pulley end of the shaft to the extremity of the impeller (Fig. 10). 5. Position the pulley hub on the shaft and press on until a dimension of 5.70" is obtained from the hub face to the housing mounting face. (Fig. 10).
FAN DRIVE CLUTCH
ASSEMBLY 1. Apply a light film of waterproof sealer on a new seal and press the seal into the housing.
DESCRIPTION
2. Coat the outer ·diameter of the bearing lightly with grease, and press the shaft and bearing into the pump housing. Press the shaft and bearing into the housing until the bearing is flush with the housing hub. 3. Carefully press the ceramicfaced seal onto the shaft approximately!-"-
The fan clutch (Figs. 12, 13 and 14) permits use of a powerful fan without paying the penalty of power loss or noise. The fan clutch is a mechanical device which provides maximum air flow through the radiator when required, and a minimum air flow when less than maximum cooling is necessary . It can modulate between the
maximum and the minimum air flows according to conditions, and it limits fan speed to a maximum rpm, beyond a given engine input speed . The viscous fluid shear principle in general is applied to fan clutch design in the following manner : A drive plate totally enclosed within the clutch housing is attached directly to the clutch input shaft (assembled to the water pump shaft and pulley). A predetermined clearance between the drive plate and the inner surfaces of the clutch housing is established -at assembly . The clutch housing and the fan blade assembly are mounted to the input shaft by a sealed bearing and are free to rotate independently of the drive plate and input shaft. The interior chamber of the clutch housing is filled with a given amount of silicon base oil. Centrifugal force resulting from the rotation of the clutch. coupled with the constant pumping action designed into the unit forces the silicon base oil evenly about the inner surfaces of the clutch in the close clearance or drive area . The drag between the driving and the driven members is thus increased by the presence of the oil, causing the clutch action. A control valve (operated by a tern perature-sensitive bi-metal coi I or strip in the air stream on the front of the clutch) regulates the amount of oil pumped in or out of the close clear-
PART 11-2- WATER PUMP FAN DRIVE CLUTCH
FIG. 12 Typical Fan Drive Clutch Installation ance (drive) area. This action determines the fan speed in relation to the drive pulley and the radiator core air flow temperature.
OPERATION START-UP At start-up, or after a prolonged engine shut-down period, near maximum fan noise can be heard as the fan clutch fluid is forced into the close clearance area by centrifugal force, resulting in maximum application of the clutch . As the normal operating temperature is reached, the amount of fluid allowed to remain in the close clearance area is regulated by the temperature-sensitive control valve. This determines fan speed in relation to the fan drive pulley and the radiator core air flow temperature. RUNNING-LOW AMBIENT TEMPERATURE After the initial start-up · cycle has been completed, and as long as the air flowing through the radiator core does not exceed 150- 180 degrees F temperature, the fan clutch will remain in or near the maximum slip position. During this cycle, the control valve allows a minimum amount of fluid to remain in the close clearance (drive) area. RUNNING-HIGH AMBIENT TEMPERATURE As ambient temperatures increase, or air flow temperatures through the core become increasingly higher, additional cooling is required. The bimetal coil or strip senses this change
11-9
BI·METAL STRIP
CONTROL
PIST~
BI-METAL SPRING
8 1932 - C
82631·8
FIG. 13 - Fan Drive Clutch With Flat Bi-Metal Spring and moves the control valve to the minimum slip position, retaining a maximum amount of oil in the close clearance area .
FIG. 14 -Fan Drive Clutch With Coil Bi-Metal Spring 3. Remove the retaining capscrews and separate the fan from the drive clutch .
INSTALLATION MODULATING CYCLE As vehicle operation varies with heavy to light traffic, terrain, etc., the fan clutch operates within the high and low rpm positions, modulating as required as ambient air flow through the radiator core changes . HIGH SPEED SUSTAINED OPERATION
I. Position the fan on the drive clutch . Install the capscrews. 2. Position the fan drive clutch and fan assembly to the water pump hub (Fig. I). Install and torque the retaining capscrews evenly and alternatel y to specifications. Then, check the fan drive clutch flange-to-water pump hub for proper mating. Adjust the fan belt tension to specifications.
3. Re-install the radiator shroud.
During high speed operation, fan clutch action will limit speed of the fan to a given maximum rpm . This will occur under hot or cold conditions.
REMOVAL
1. Remove the radiator shroud attaching bolts and lay the shroud back toward the engine. 2. Loosen the fan belt. Remove the capscrews retaining the fan drive clutch to water pump hub (Fig. 1). Remove the fan drive clutch and fan as an assembly.
TORQUE VALUES (ALL CARS) NOTE: All specifiutions are aiven in ft·lbs unless otherwise noted. Fan to Fan Clutch (With A/C)· All Engines 10-15
Enaine RPM Required Fan Test Speed @ 2000 Water Pump RPM To Run Water Pump Minimum Slip Maximum Slip 2000 RPM
1500
1750
11-10
PART 11-3
RADIATOR
Section
Pare
1 Desr.ription and Operation
D
Pare
2 Removal and Installation
11-10
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
The radiators are of the tube and fin-core type with the tubes arranged for vertical or horizontal coolant flow . Two header-tanks, one at each end of the core provide uniform distribution of the coolant to the tubes. The
EJ
11-10
Section
radiator outlet port is connected to the water pump inlet port. The radiator inlet port is connected to the coolant outlet housing of the engine, thereby permitting coolant circulation through the radiator
when the thermostat is open. An oil cooler coil is located in the radiator outlet header-tank to cool transmission fluid for automatic transmission vehicles.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
REMOVAL
1. Drain the cooling system. Dis· connect the radiator coolant hoses at the radiator. 2. On a car with automatic transmission, disconnect the oil cooler lines at the radiator. 3. Remove fan shroud attaching bolts and position the shroud rearward, if so equipped. 4. Remove the radiator support bolts and remove the radiator.
INSTALLATION 1. If a new radiator is to be in-
stalled, remove the drain cock from the old radiator and install it in the new radiator. On a car with automatic transmission, remove the oil cooler line fittings from the old radia· tor, and install them in the new radiator, using oil-resistant sealer. :Z. Position the radiator assembly and install the support bolts. 3. Connect the radiator coolant hoses.
On a car with automatic transmission, connect the oil cooler lines and re-install the fan shroud if previously removed.
4. Close the drain cock. Fill and bleed the cooling system. 5. Operate the engine and check for leaks at the hose connections and the automatic transmission oil cooler Jines. Check the automatic transmiJsion fluid level.
FIG. 15- Installation Cross Flow Radiator and Shroud. All 302-351-2V 250 with AiC
11- J J
PART 11·4
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE VALUES Ft. Lbs. Water pump to cylinder block (or cylinder front cover) all engines 12-15 Water outlet housing all engines 12-15 Fan and spacer to pulley hub all engines 10-15 Radiator to support all engines 8-13 Radiator to engine hose clamps all engines 1.0-2.5 Transmission oil cooler tube nut to radiator connection ALL 10-15 Fan shrouds are fitted to 250 a/c, all 302 and 351 engines. *
* Fan blade radial clearance to shroud- 0.75 inches. SPECIFICATIONS: Cooling system capacity (quarts)*
200-250 7.5
302 351 12.9
*Includes heater. if deleted, subtract one quart
NOTE : Air conditioned vehicles are fitted with extra heavy duty radiators. Prior to replacement of these units refer to the parts catalogue for correct part number.
THERMOSTAT Opens °F Fully Open °F
200 & 260 0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY DJMENSIONS Front face of pulley hub to pump housing face Impeller blade to housing clearance Pump housing face to rear face of impeller 0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
DRIVE BELT TENSION (Lbs.) Single belt 6-Cylinder air conditioned (dual belts) Front Rear Power steering 0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0.
0
0
0
0
0
0
188-195 210-212
302-351 188-195 210-212
3.94 .044-.054
5.70 .030-.050
0.525-0.535
0.066-0.094
NEW 110-140
USED 80-110
NEW 110-140
USED 80-110
110-140 105-155 120-150
80-110 75-120 90-120
120-150
90-120
11-12 ENGINE
GROUP 11- COOLING SYSTEM TRANS
FINS PER INCH
20.29" Down Flow 20.29" Down Flow 20.29" Down Flow 20.29" Down Flow 2I.7" Cross Flow and Shroud
9 9 IO IO 9
250 CID IV AutoA/C
2I .7" Cross Flow and Shroud
9
250 CID 2V Manual 250 CID 2V Auto 250 CID 2V Manual A/C
20.29" Down Flow 20.29" Down Flow 2I.7" Cross Flow and Shroud
IO IO 9
250 CID 2V Auto A/C
21.7" Cross Flow and Shroud
9
302 CID 302 CID 302 CID 302 CID 351 CID 2V 351 CID 2V 35I CID 2V 351 CID 2V 35I CID 4V 35I CID 4V 351 CID 4V 35I CID 4V
21.7" Cross Flow and Shroud 2I.7" Cross Flow and Shroud 21.7" Cross Flow and Shroud 2I.7" Cross Flow and Shroud 2I .7" Cross Flow and Shroud 21.7" Cross Flow and Shroud 21.7" Cross Flow and Shroud 21.7" Cross Flow and Shroud 2I .7" Cross Flow and Shroud 2I.7" Cross Flow and Shroud 26.0" Cross Flow and Shroud 26.0" Cross Flow and Shroud
IO I2 I4 I4 10 IO I3 I3 I2 I4 I2 I2
200 200 250 250 250
Manual CID CID Auto CID IV Manual CID IV Auto CID IV Manual A/C
RADIATOR CORE WIDTH&TYPE
Manual Auto Manual A/C Auto A/C Manual Auto Manual A/C Auto A/C Manual Auto Manual A/C Auto A/C
FAN No. OF BLADES X DIA.
FAN RATIO
PVS VALUE
4xi7.5" 4x I7.5" 4x I7.5" 4 X I7.5" 6 X I7 .0" Viscous Clutch 6 X I7 .0" Viscous Clutch 4 X I7.5" 4 X I7 .5" 6 X 17.0" Viscous Clutch 6 X I7.0" Viscous Clutch 4 X I7.5" 4x I7.5" 5 X I7.5" 5 X I7.5" 4 X I7 .5" 4 I7.5" 7 X I7 .5" 7 X 17.5" 4 X I7.5" 4 X I7 .5" 7 X 17.5" 7 X I7.5"
1.05 1.05 1.05 1.05 1.18
No No No No Yes
1.18
Yes
1.05 1.05 1.18
Yes Yes Yes
1.18
Yes
0.96 0.96 1.13 1.13 0 .96 0.96 1.13 1.13 0.96 0.96 1.13 1.13
Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
x
FALCON FAIRLANE w~:~~~~P
EXHAUST SYSTEM
GROUP 12
PAGE
PART 12-1-General Exhaust System Service
12-2
PART 12-2-Exhaust Pipes and Muffler
12-3
PART 12-3-Specifications
12-19
12-2
PART
12-1
GENERAL EXHAUST SYSTEM SERVICE Pa1e
Section
lZ-2 .... 12-2
1 Diagnosis and Testinc 2 Common Adjustment. and Repairs
This part covers general exhaust system diagnosis, tests, adjustment and repair procedures. In addition, the cleaning and inspection procedures are covered.
D
External leaks in the exhaust system are often accompanied by noises or greyish-white smnke emitted from under the car. Small leaks are
EJ
For exhaust system component removal, disassembly, assembly, installation, major repair procedures and specifications, refer to the pertinent part of this group.
usually inaudible and not visible. A visual inspection of the exhaust system usually will show the location of a leak. Look for holes, ruptured joints and eroded areas in the muffter(s), resonator(s), inlet pipe(s) and outlet pipe(s). Examine joints and connections for greyish white deposits that would be caused by exhaust gas leakage. A misaligned exhaust system is usually indicated by vibration, grounding, rattling, or binding of the components. Often the associated
COMMON ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
ADJUSTMENTS The exhaust system must be free of leaks, binds, grounding and excessive vibration. Exhaust system vibration, grounding or binds are usually caused by: loose, broken or improperly aligned clamps, or brackets, or improperly connected pipes. Any of the aforementioned conditions may cause changes to clearances of the exhaust system components. If any of these conditions exist, the exhaust system components must be checked, adjusted or replaced to make certain the specified clearances (refer to the illustrations in Part ll-2) are maintained.
EJ
3 Cleaninc and Inspection .... ...
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS EXHAUST SYSTEM An exhaust system performance complaint, such as excessive back pressure is usually noticeable by its effect on engine performance. For diagnosis of exhaust system problems that affect engine performances, refer to Part 8-1, Section 1.
Pa1e
Section
EXHAUST SYSTEM ALIGNMENT Refer to the pertinent illustration in Part 12-2 for the clearance specifications and location of components. Perform the following procedure to adjust the exhaust system components: 1. Loosen the pipe connection clamps and the pipe support bracket clamp(s). Loosen the inlet pipe to exhaust manifold retaining nuts. l. Torque the exhaust manifold to inlet pipe retaining nuts evenly and alternately to specification to insure uniform pressure on the seal and inlet pipe ftange.
12-2
Always refer to the Master Parts Catalog for parts usage and interchangeability before replacing a com-· ponent part of the exhaust system. noise is hard to distinguish from other chassis noises. Look for broken or loose clamps and brackets and replace or tighten as necessary. It is important from a noise, vibration or harshness point of view, that exhaust clearances and setting procedures as shown in Figures 1 through 14 be adhered to when ever repairs involving the exhaust system are carried out. As some of the exhaust system to body clearances are relatively small, ensure they are set to specification before replacing components in an endeavour to correct a noise, vibration or harshness problem. 3. Work from the front of the car toward the rear and progressively adjust the exhaust system components and clamps at the various pipe connections to relieve binds and improper pipe connections. Be sure the Inlet and outlet pipa and muftlen are aligned so that all clearances are within the limits shown on the Illustrations In Part 12-l. Then torque the clamps to specification. 4. Check the exhaust system for leaks. MUFFLERS, INLET PIPES AND OUTLET PIPES Brackets, clamps and insulaton should be replaced if they are defec· tive or become badly corroded. Do not attempt repair of these parts.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
EXHAUST SYSRM
INSPECTION Inspect the inlet pipe(s), outlet pipe(s), and muffler for cracked joints, broken welds and corrosion
damage (holes) that would result in a leaking exhaust system. Inspect the clamps, brackets and insulators for cracks and stripped or badly corroded bolt threads. When pipe
clamp{s) are loosened, and/ or removed to replace a pipe or muffler, replace the clamp(s), if there is reasonable doubt that its service life is limited.
12-3
PART
EXHAUST PIPES, MUFFLERS
12·2 Seetioa 1
Pare
Description
D
Pare
2 Removal and Installation
12-3
DESCRIPTION
The exhaust systems for the various car models are shown in Figs. 1 to 14.
SINGLE EXHAUST SYSTEMS The single exhaust system on cars with a six cylinder engine (Fig. 1) consists of a muffler inlet pipe, muffler with integral inlet pipe extension and outlet pipe.
EJ
12-3
Section
The single exhaust system on cars with a V-8 engine (Fig. 2) consists of a Y -type muffler inlet pipe, muffler with integral inlet pipe extension and outlet pipe.
brackets eliminate tension on the supports due to thermal expansion of the system.
DUAL EXHAUST SYSTEM The location and type of exhaust system gaskets, retaining clamps and loop-type support brackets are shown in the respective exhaust system illustrations. The loop-type support
The dual exhaust system consists of an H-type inlet pipe and an inlet pipe extension, muffler, and outlet pipe for each side.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
The replacement procedures given apply to all car models. Typical exhaust systems for the various car models are shown in Figs. 1 to 14.
MUFFLER ASS EMILY REMOVAL 1. Loosen the inlet pipe clamp at the front end of the muffler inlet pipe extension, and slide the clamp forward onto the inlet pipe.
2. Loosen the outlet pipe clamp at the rear end of the muffler, and retain the clamp on the muffler loop mount. 3. Loosen the outlet pipe clamp at the rear loop mount.
12-4
GROUP 12- EXHAUST PIPES AND MUFFLER
4. Support the inlet and outlet pipes with soft wire. 5. Separate the muffler from the inlet and outlet pipes and remove the muffler. 6. Replace any damaged parts.
INSTALLATION 1. Slide the muffler onto the inlet pipe, and position the inlet pipe to muffler inlet pipe extension clamp. 2. Slide the outlet pipe into the muffler and position the outlet pipe to muffler clamp. 3. Adjust the exhaust system components to conform to the clearances shown in Fig. 1 to 14 and torque the retaining clamps to specifications. Remove temporary support wires. 4. Start the engine and check the exhaust system for leaks.
INLET PIPE 6 CYLINDER ENGINE REMOVAL 1. Loosen the inlet pipe clamp at the front end of the muffler inlet pipe extension and slide the clamp rearward onto the inlet pipe extension.
1. Install a new gasket on the flared end of the inlet pipe. Slide the clamp onto the inlet pipe which attaches the inlet pipe to the flywheel/ converter housing support bracket.
2. Install the ihlet pipe to the muffler inlet pipe extension and exhaust manifold. Position the inlet pipe flan~. e and install the retaining nuts on the !ltuds of the manifold snug, but not tight. 3. Position the inlet pipe to the muffler inlet pipe extension clamp. Position the inlet pipe to the flywheel ; convertor housing support !:racket clamp. Remove the temporary support wire. 4. Adjust the exhaust system components to conform to the clearances shown in Figs. 1-7. Working from the front of the car toward the rear, progressively torque the retaining nuts and clamps to specifications. 5. Start the engine and check the exhaust system for leaks.
INLET PIPE VB ENGINE
3. Support the front end of the muffler inlet pipe extension with ·soft wire. 4. Remove the nuts that secure the inlet pipe to the exhaust manifold. Separate the· inlet pipe from the exhaust manifold and muffler inlet pipe extension and remove the inlet pipe.
5. Clean the gasket surface of the exhaust manifold. 6. Discard the gasket and replace any damaged parts.
INSTALLATION
During reassembly of the 250 2V exhaust manifold, it is advisable to reassemble the manifold to cylinder head bolts, starting from the back of the engine. This is recommended as misalignment of the bolt holes due to distortion can occur with this type of exhaust manifold.
1. Install l'lew gaskets on flared ends of the inlet pipe.
4. Adjust the exhaust system components to conform to the clearances shown in Figs. 8-14. Working from the front of the car toward the rear, progressively torque the retain ing nuts and clamps to specifications.
5. Start the engine and check the exhaust system for leaks.
OUTLET PIPE ALL MODELS REMOVAL 1. Loosen the outlet pipe(s) clamp at the rear end of the muffler(s) and retain the clamp on the muffler(s) loop mount.
3. Remove the outlet pipe(s) clamp at the rear loop mount.
1. Loosen the inlet pipe(s) clamp(s) at the front end of the muffler inlet pipe extension, and slide the clanip(s) rearward onto the inlet pipe extension. l. Support the front end of the muffler inlet pipe(s) extension with soft wire. 3. Remove the nuts that secure the inlet pipe to the exhaust manifolds. Separate the inlet pipe from the exhaust manifolds and muffler inlet pipe extension and remove the inlet pipe. 4. Clean the gasket surface of the exhaust manifolds. 5. Discard the gaskets and replace any damaged parts.
INSTALLATION
3. Position the inlet pipe to the muffler inlet pipe extension clamp. Remove the temporary support wire.
l. Support the rear end of muffier(s) with soft wire.
REMOVAL 2. Remove the clamp attaching the inlet pipe to the flywheel/converter housing support bracket.
pipe flanges and install the retaining nuts on the studs of the manifold snug, but not tight.
4. Separate the outlet pipe(s) from the JLuffler(s) and remove the outlet pipe(s).
INSTALLATION 1. Slide the outlet pipe(s) into the rear end of the muffler(s) and position the outlet pipe to the muffler clamp.
l. Slide the clamp for the rear loop mount onto the outlet pipe(s) and position the clamp on the loop amount. Remove the temporary sup port wire.
the
3. Adjust the exhaust systems com,JOnents to conform to the clearances shown in Fig. 1-14 and torque the retaining clamps to specifications.
2. Install the inlet pipe to the muffler inlet pipe extension and exhaust manifolds. Position the inlet
4. Start the engine and check the exhaust system for leaks.
A SB2J6 ~
~:
/
(
FAOIV1 SuRrACC
'--··
-·---..
, ~A+-
OrMANIIOLD
\
r~G£
· 5A24<>
//.
~..,
s---
~
TIGUTEAI SECURELY
1$5 Ul. FT; M(/(.
-~t--\j .. __.-· t\'t-J.!JOJ4S -S t OO + 2
61.
40!#1· SJ6 Z R£(}1:>
a
/\...._
:
70
-
£
...
CLE~CES
AIIJST BE HEilJ N1C1 COV1POU.LO.
711£ MINtFOLO CO
...
TIE
~~~ ~.<.<; ~ ,U~50"11) HO/itZ()Nl;IL ,
INrE1lAAEDtt(TF
-R
~
5A24ti !NS7N.LED
THE A.ltFR.£R ASSY. S2JO M.Cl #L£r Pf11E E~SEO AS IJOICA7ED AND 7HE ~ lD /JODi' ll£lA70N$111P ~ NFOIIC Nt/FFI.I/1 u-lJOt.TIIISSY.52S2 AND TIE A18IR NANGCJl c~ SA212 AlE~
tsAZ7Z' )'
THESE
N!>LIR£ ~ PO!J/710NJNS OF 71£ ElfHAIRT. SYSTEM THE F~ Q
110/TEN ~Cl/RELY 84 Ui. N. MA.It
A ZS·JS tUT
END OF STUO wml SHOilTE!Y 7J/REAIJ LENGTH 70 BE SCffWFO Nro MAN/IOU).
ro
,.1877' -52 2/UQD
V1£W
IN CtAcLI:
~WN/0
PIMENSIONS SIIOWN W{TIIO(ff 70/..EPAN:£ Ali£ FOR (i)UI.LfTY AUDIT PURPOSE Til£ 10t.ERANCE ON Til£$£ OA#ENSION$ N1£ ~ . 25 I.NLESS OTHE/l'MSE SJIOtw.
ISSY.
ACQO
..
AFTER ASSEMBLY. lOWER 1/fVET OF "-WG£R
ASSEM&IES 7t> BE />r)gTKJN€() .34 OF f.AI>Pell. RIVET.
ASSY
e Vl£1¥ N. CIIICL£ C
TIGH1EAI ~ "LTBlN~rELY ·AND E'ENLY lO
~IN~.
.........
~
..so CrlCLC 8
:I: )>
A~ -.~ ~. -~ ..
c
~
r >
5n!J·
II'· '
.s·
'
/(J''
~"-~;-
::-~
.
-~· !1252 . AMY. U-«1t.T ASSr 1tJ PoNT c::tl1l!IOOW 20"/'2$" lO IU7JCAL ,
~
~
~- -~r
..7 .
I
SECTICW 8 -8
~m
. ~
n~
A
UJ.FT.e
IlSSY
\~
\-. ~
30~\<>-2t-'
= -r t:'
. 75
VICW IN
~
MQQQS.
!UA.&C.D
SECT70N A-A
ll'i4ICOI/ SEDAN
ZIOOf Z!fO tr
(3/Mi££.)1
NSTA/.UTIOAI ·EJHll.ltr ~
-
.,_..
FIG. 1
V1 _./
-
~ ·SBUI> -
5<0246 ·
ASSY
A
A17ER ASSEMBLY, lOWER RIVET~ HANGER
!,SSEM&IES 7V 8E P(JgT/Oio/£0 .3lJ OF uP/¥:~ RNET.
ASSY. ~
ss•
a
--40!UI . 2 R£1;>0.
~IUIRD
BJ0 OF STC/0 wml SHORTEST 11fRe.D LENGTH 70 6C .scffWE'D Nro MANIRJL[). THE'SE Cl£ARANCES MUST BE UEJ..D AND
COV7tlC£/.£(l
PIMEAISICWS SHoWN W( T/101./T 10/..o/JAN:E ARt
~'fTEN SECURELY.
~1./J. FTAMX.
FOR QU#.LfTY AUDIT PURPOSE TilE 10/..ERANC£ ON T>(ES£ DIM£'1$/0N$ ARE t. 2S UVL£SS OTHE"*SE SHOWW. 7!:1 N!il.IRC ~ POSmONNG OF TN£~ $tSTEM TilE rol.lOIA4VG OflERATIONS MUST
8E RJL/.014£0. TilE M¥/IRJLO CCWNEr:TION IJ(JSr 8E SE'CUIIE
VI£W IN CIALC TION orAAAow
rr--1 \fr'-~~~~->S2. eLA
VI£W IN CllfCL£
A
A
~
U · .J,S lt>rT
TilE ~ HANI!iER ASSY. 5A2"~ !NS'IN.LED TNE~ASSY. 52.10 MD NET l:r/1€ ENIII4SED AS 1/DICATED AND THE 04/Ulll¥ 70 1/!::Q' R£«170NSNIP ~ NFOIIJE '-tJFFLEil IJ-BCU-. SZS2 AN11'T1E RtN? HA1o16ER CiA~#'
SA212 5252
ASSY.
NiE~
TIGIITEAI ~ Ai.TEIINATELY AND E!£NLY lO MAINTAIW
10RO>U£.
"c~
.r ~
::I:
c>
~
. 7S
.so 8
VIEW IN CIACL£
:::2 ""0
--
A!5Y.
t.t8.
·v-,;\·\.
·-'210.
~
ASSY
\tf
m (/)
·=
"'".~~ ,.._,.,
z0>
....., I/IIIIMIL
A
:1252·
-20- 7E! IJl FT. •
A!ISY.
V-80t..T A3illr 'ro P0tWr ~· lO
(J(JT'1!K;WD
VIRTICAL .
~
c"TI
"TI
r-
m
:;10
t I
SECT&{ 8 ·8
FIG. 2
.4tl0El.S. 71 A.B.C .
SECT'ION ·A·A
A
·SA246 ·
ASSY
~ ASSDIBLY, le»>£R l/tii£T 01' IJ/WG£R ~ES BE Pan"ION£0 ,.J4 ~
m
OF I.IPPE:!t_ R/1,£7; -9- END OF STlJO wml SIIOI17£!IT T1iREAD LENGTH 10 I!E SCR£14<£0 NTO MN#RXD.
~1.$,36
2R£q•o 7l';'f1TN SB:IJIEiY
•
A$1'-UI, F T;I.MX
THESE CLEARANCES MUST BE HEi.D AND C'OV1POI.J.£Q
PIME1>J310NS SHoWN WfTIDIIT.P.EPAN:::£ ARE FOil fiVI,LITY A/JOlT PURPOSE TilE '/OtERANC£ 0A1 7JIE$E DNEAJ$/01>1$ NU ~ . 2$ IIVI.IU OTHERIMSE SHOIIN. TO
N!WR£
~EM
~ AOS/1'1(JNI!o.'Q OF 71£ El(HAJJ8r ~ O'l!lQolrA:;WS MIJ$T
THE
/ER:UOW£0. THE MWti"Ot.D COVN£r:TION MUSr BE SECUIIE
- l l ~ 5A24~ N$TJ41./.£0 ASSY. S2.fO MD MET PIP£ ENQASED AS INDICATED AND 114£ - - m IKJDi' R£/.A10N$111P GIVGED NFOil£' ~FILii C*/JCtTASS'Y.52SZ AND T1E llSIR HNoiGUl CtAMP SA212 ME T1S/fTCNED. TIE
~
TN£~
V I £W
IN CIIIICL£
A
Yat IN C1110E <. .
A . u ~so 111£WIN CIRCLC
e
1IGH1FIII to.ttr3 ALTEIINVELY AND E\ENLY lO
~~-
~ .:J~··--
8
--~
--
~-
ASSY
.-•-c-~r-•o* -AIIIIOII!II>
,.'J'O
c
""I
= -r..., ~
:I: )>
~
c
~
~--_.._\'\u }--
01' MiltON
~
(/)
-<
~ m
\ \ - -.;.eo
/ -DO·
~--
1/--IIDLT ~- lO PONr ~ ID
~
OUf804RD
~ ..,~·
- ~
-,
AIIXIrL3. .......
I
S£CTICN 8-11
IUTIICIL .
SECT'ION A-A
78A
t~-==1 FIG. 3
-~
':-'
00 5824-5AU" -
ASSY'
A
ASS'(.
AFTER ASSo.iBLY, l()ti.£R lliVET OC HANGER ASSEMBLIES 10 BE P(bTKW£0 ..M .-~UUC? OF~RNFT.
-9- END OF $1VD wml SHORTEST 71/REA/) LENt>rH 7D liE SCREM'D IM'O MAN/fDI.J). ~r.u---- _
.w941-$36
"
S!RI~ 'O
TIGHT'IW~
.sps
98t877-S2 2 IU.r;b TIGHTEN SEC'f)R£LY
J )
. ...
VI£W INOtR£.CT!ON OFAAAOW V1£W IN ClltCL£
A
J11S4ZO -.$ 2. l lt£Qt) LS-.J.S 18FT
IH
£8./IJ.
"MMC.
378~-S!"
12 . LB. FT. "foo r.
SCREW Mt/ST 8E
~MDIONTING
~AT~7!>
VEW
!N~LEC
HOilfZO/ol'flf£ ,
e
7D N;UR£ Ali0"!99!
A
nr;l('f'lfN SB:VIIEJ_ y
A
7H£SE CLEAiliWCES MIJSr BE UELD MID COICE ON THEM {)#.IENSJOA/$ ARE ". 25 INLESS 011/EJ;M,ISE SHO/MI.
/.8. FT KIN< .
-
SISTEM THE
~INS
F~
OF TN£' E'XHAU$T OPERQ'IONS MUOT'
liE R:IUOI'f'D. 71IE /tWVIR)L[) ~.OV IJf.(Sr BE SEI::Uil£ TIE~ ~R ASSr.' SAU6 MTN.I..ED TN£~ ASSY. ~
MIP N..£T Pill£ ENIMSED AS #JDICA'TED M1P THE :r::4IUI'¥' 1P
~~~~~~~
~-~
e
11GH1FAI ~ Ai.'TF-ELY AND lii£NLY '1D UfiAirAJAJ ~-
G\
.-
=-0 •C ~ m X :I: )>
c(/) _...
. 75
..so VIEW IN C/ACL£
.,.,m
8
a.-_/a \
A'-
· 5230 ·
(/)
---- .
~•-c .
)>
z
ASSY
0 !JilSt•
~
~D:T-'ID-.8
~
OI.QI04ot0 .liJO~ 'ID ~-
r-
m
~ -~~I
SEa/ON 8-B
'IPION A-.4
"' -.:~~£
r~=~l FIG. 4
~
,,c
A ·5/JN6 - ~1-.S.J£
/
•
2 -REC(J Tl(1HT'£N
SECURELY
THESE CLEARANCES MUST" BE HELD AND CoNTROlLED
/)/MENSK)NS SHoW/uflPOSE mE TOLERANCE ON niESE 0/MENS/OIJS )R£ "' -25 LA/LESS OTHERWISE SJ/OWAI.
ey'.tf UJ. FT M«. -5-1246-
AnFR ASSEMBLY, LOH£R RIVET OF HANGER
lfi!SEMBLIES TO BE PC&TIONED .31! R:illWARD OF UPPER RI'Cr.
ASSY
ASSY. TO /AI!J~ I'RIJ.t¥R P05ITJOIVW5 OF 71E £XHA/J$C•
SYSTFM THE FOUiJWING OP£/l.ATIOIJS 411J$r BE RJI.i OWED.
•
TilE M!WIFIXD COMJECT1CW Musr BE SErUilE
~817-52
'TIE~£ ~R
2~. ~
~~--11 1/.eEQI:>,
20JUJ-S
LB. A/, "'We.
lEW IN DIIIECT10N OF M'_. B .
.$188U·!JJ6
525~"~
St'MWMVST8E
II Ai!E'QD. /.J-IfJ LB.ff.
•
IIIOV IN DlllEr:T'ION CF AR.QJW A .
12 ilJ.
n
C!V1"«Wii0
AND-~
TIGHT'EIV 1
'1£10' IN CIICI.Li C
HOIIZ0'/7111.. .
~
.11' .5I>
:X:
)>
liEW N CIRCJ.£ A
~
c 5230·
~·
{_· fl>i ])
FIG.5
~:·
$\\
~
-J 36CT70N B-6
~
=-
ASSY
A
,
SECTION A-o'l
,.,...;:
-~
Mfi/VTAN TORCUE.
&4272
.u4X.
~n~~~
~ALL£[)
SA272 ARE .,_,EJJ£0.
e
@
T~S~LY
ASSY. 5A246
THE MUffLER ASSY. .5230 AA/0 #./LET "ll'¥" ENGAI;ED AS /loDIC~7ED AAID THE 7JIII.Pt:E 10 8COT' REJ..AT/ONSJ(fp GALG£0 BER1R£ AU'RLR U·lJCt.T ASSY.52.52 AND 11IE .ll6oiR HAI>GER CLAA4I>
TIGHTEN SEQJe!'LY
ASSY
~
(/)
-<
~ m
'fm[Loatl
-# --(
=·~
•
*®
~
(/) 5252-
.A!SY.
LI-B«T A9SY 10 PoNTQ./TtJCt4AD
VERnCAL.
a>J'!!S• 70
),_ ........../..,
Le&JE
k/CICQS. !'W A.&C.O.
-
t:-'
\f)
-~
-S82-tl. -
0
ASSY A
ASS~'
5'1246 -
AFTCR ASSCMBL Y. LO;VER RIVeT Q& IW
OF uPPeR RII£T. ~- $U,
•
2 -Rcfib TIGHTEN SECURElY.
THESE CLCAR'.NCES MUST BE H£LO AND CONTROIJ.E()_ DMENSKJNS SHOWIV WfTIIDI.ff 10UIW>CE ~
$Sl8. FT: A-14)(.
nJtll ~ AUOIT PUilPOSE 1HE 7fXERANCE OAJ THESE DI/I.I£/>JSI()I
ro ~
~PER
PC61710NIAI6
cr -nE EJCJWJ$T
SYSTEM 7NE I'OIUJW/N6 O!'£MTIOIJS MCJSr BE RJI.L OWED.
• ~
L
TilE NII/>JIFDLD CQJA/IC11CMI MUST' BE ss::tiRE 'TilE NTERME/)IIVE ~R ASSY. 5A241. /NST,IJ../..£[) THE loC/f"FLER ASSY. SZJO MO A/LET PIPE
3M877-82. z~
'T16IITUJ 3EOJRELY, 84 U.N. uu.
~
INGA.GED AS ~/JED ANO 7H£ TAIIJ'IPE 10 80/K REI.N10NSHIP ~ /JI!FDRE M:FR.E~ lr/JOU A$SY.52$2 AM) 71E ~ HAMleR CiAA
MI!W' IN DiiiJtC1ICN OF A4'ACW B . 5~-
'T7fiHTEN M/TS AUER~TEZ.Y AND EVENLY 10 Mlf/AITAIV ~E.
C)
::a c:
0
,
... N
I
ASsY.
m X
WW IN t:WiEl:TICN OF A/lllQ¥ A.
:I:
)>
c
(I)
,,-f m C/)
)>
·MD .S!JO
·-~ ....
$\)c~
~'·
-J !P:TICIAI 8 -II
S.CTION A ·>l
LEM»E
~
0
af/11111664 ·
3:
'IE/l11011£ •
~
,
z
£-·
/ .60
~
:1252· ASr V./1Dl.7 ASY 10 1'0/r 01/TBCMD .a::¢15" lD
':~·
/.
~
.-ww~
..........,.,...,
~ g37.
~
--r
,tUlio!U 71 A. B. c .
r-~ S>-ZY~R WAlLAT.ol
FIG. 6
-~ '"'"~
,,c r
m
::xJ
.A.
-SAU'
ASSY It
AFTER ASSE/.t8L Y, LONeR -0V£T OF HANG£"1 /lE£M8LIES 70 BE POSITIONED .ole ~D OF UI'P€R RIVET.
7HES£ CL£AR'.NCES MUST BE HEW MID CtWTilOiJ.ED
40$141 $36
:JIMENSONS SHOW/>/ WfTIIJUT 70U!Ilti.NCE "-''f n:>R ~7Y AUDIT PUlPOSE 7H£ 10LERANCE
2/lEQ'D TA;HT£1>/~l)'
6~ l8.
n.
AI~.
DTHE-ISE SlloWAJ.
TO~~ ;>o$1710NIM9 OF 7JC E~ SYSTEM 1NE IOILOWIN(; aP£RATKWS MUST BE R>1.L OWED.
..$8246
• U
L
TilE MI¥JII'fXD ~ MUSr BE SEr
34/877-$2 2~.
TN£ MUFFLER ASSY .$2!0 MID A/LET Al'lf EMZAGED >«S #DICATED AND THE TN/.Pf~ lO
TIGHTDI SECURELY ~ iB.N M.4'f.
s--s
BOOt' R£lAT1tJNSNIP ~ IJEFlJRE A.lcFR.Eii' U · lJ()t.T ASSY-5252 AND 71E ~ ~ Ct.M4<> SUJ2 All£ TIGHTENED.
/l.e£QZ>.
181 IN t:llliECntJN OF AR.II
=,
~
IIDV IN DlllECTION OF AR.E!JW A.
e
(lllC/.E C .
TJGHTEN M/fS AOERN4TElY MID aDIL Y 10
...-4
ASSY.
N
T>GHTE.V !!EaRLY
N
12 L&n: MAr. sc~ 70/J£ ~IWANO ~AffiVIJ LPII'AIIDS.
~-~
I m X :X:
~
)>
IIIEW AI CJIICl£ A
c
en en -< en
·900·
-i
·SZII....
$230-
lfj•
/_
J !JiiCT1()N 8-6
'
S£C110N A·A
A9SY .,,_.MoaEr:riON tJF All•QIIIID
"
$\~...,. '
~
::0
MIINTAIN 7D/lf)U£.
~R!OANIL } ~\
J,
~ 0
VII'WNIJIIUCf'll1N M Alfi/IIJMI
a
.
-i
m
s:
en
_O.eDJI
,_.....- 1-00 I
VIEW 1/>1 011i!B:J11oN OF AI1JiiCW C .
6252· ASS)( 1.1-IJOtj ASSY. 10 PONr ()(Jrllf::MRD ~· 10
IU7rAL.
• ""'''" _,_Mrt!MNT'
'EM.-.r(&
78 ...
-
IA1./IYf INI tso·zv
(SN;t.E.)
N!lTALLATION ·£)(HM,Iff !rSTEM.
FIG. 7
--
'!-'
-
-~
N
.ol · 582<1.0 ·
~-.$$6
2 REt;J'D TIGHTEN SECLREJY IS/ 25 /.8. FT. ~X .
..ciSY.
401N/-""'
-e.
AFTER Asso.tliL Y, LOWER RIVET OF' HANGER ASSEMBLIES 70 BE POI!i/TIONE'O .&1 1'001MRO OF' UI'PCR Rt.£7:
OF' STUO WITH SJCilrEST 1HRENJ LENGTH TO 8E ~EO N70 IMN/I'OI.J).
ENO
11ESE CJIARAACES MUST 8E H£U> ANO CXJN'T1lOU£l;
•
DfM£1oJSIONS SHOWN WITHOUT 'IOL£RANCE ARE
j"-
~.
; J (J..
~,LNL-~
JIJ/877-52
ZAVQZl. TIGiffEN SECURELY
!U51-
61 1.8.IN. M4K.
2~
:::y"
I
/VN;c
-5252
li£91:>
25-~
A.
378~-,S!J(O
~
~
t4.1'f
~':a~ UPIV~
AT #$)'SO" 70 NOI?IZONJ)fL.
C)
0
ENGAGED AS INDICATED AND THE 'OOLPfPE 70 8CJDJ' RELATICNSHIP CAVGED BEFORE M:' 5252 AND THE REAR HAN!IE'R CiAMP !iA212 AR£ 11GIITENED.
@ · &U72·A
12. /.8. FT. .W..V,
70 NSUI?£ PJK>PER """ITIONIN6 OF TN£ O.HAI.J$1' SYS1FM TH£ A:XLOW.o\G oPERATIONS MIJ!fT BE' R>LLOWEO. Til£ _.FOLD CONNECTION MUST BE SECURE I'll£ IAITE'RME'DIATE ~R ASSY. 5<12441 NVSTN.i..ED TN£ 1tlllf'FLER ASS'( 5230 AND UEr Pff£
...
TIGJn£N SLCt.IRELY
.S'JIU20-3Z.
f'IIOM SI.JIIrAC£ Of' MAAI'O<.O
FOR QU
ASSY.
· 542~
e
TIGHTEN Nr/73 A.LTEIWI.TELV AND EI/EAI~Y Jt)
MAIAJT:AIN lolfW N
70R91Jf:.
CI/ICJ.E C
I
m X
c
C/)
-i -a -a
.15
m
C/)
)>
r-·-~r·
z s:: ,c
-52$5 ~230
A95Y
.·~@-~""'.
::·
~-
-
.~
-.
_A/ -
~
--
£AIGINE
-
·-~. "'"""'
j$-\ ~--
0
....
NFtfl
·5 24 ·
,
®
=-~
wav IN DII/EcriOIJ
5~2 ·
Of'NIIiON .8 .
AMY
v-I!IXIA851: I() I"C//>>T OUTS<:I4IID ~· 10 151111CAL.
·'-~
Ro.!i~(KF.) IA0()£1.!
~
A.B.c.D
SECTION A -A f'ffL(X'N S£I)AAI
n(.J!ii· 2Y {SIAIGL£.}
IV!!TALLATION •UHIIIRr ~STFM.
FIG.8
....
N
)>
IIIOVNOIICi£/1
3£CT10N 8 -8
c-a
:I:
.50
~7
:::D
r m
:0
a ~46·
-S82·11• ·
ASSY
OF UF'P€R RNE:r. ~
40941-~
AFTER ASSEMBLY, tONER RIVET OF HNVGER ro BE POSITIONED .3!1 lt>\'II«RD
ASSEMB£1ES
AS5Y
ENO OF STC/0 WITH SH:JRTEST THREAD LENGTH
TO BE SCJ
2 REQ:O Tlf#TEN SECUREJ:r: J:i'2> £8 FT MIX.
•
THESE CLEARANCES MUST" BE HELO MID CONTROLLED.
OtMENSKJIVS SHOWN WII'IICIIT 10LERAACE ARE FOR QUAUTY AUOIT PURPOSE THE ·TOLERANCE DN THESE DIMENSIONS ARE 1 . 25 UNLESS OTHERWISE SHOWN. TO NSUR£ PROPER POSITI()It.JING OF THE £11.HAVST'
SYSTEM THE rot.tOWIIvG OPERArJONS MUST BE FOLlOWED.
381877-52
A
Z~Z>.
TIGIITEN SEI::I.RELY.
54
· 9451
z RS)t>
THE MANIRJLD CONNECTION MtJSr BE SECuRE Til£ JNTERMEOII(TE -.GER ASSY. 5<1246 ,_,STJ4li.ED TN£ IJ()FFLER ASSY. S230 ANO NLET Pf~
.,
1/·SOti ASS1." 5252 AND THE REAR HAAGER ~ SA272 ARE TIGIITENED.
::D
ENGAGED AS INDICATED AN{) 711£ 1/41/..AI¥ ro BODY RE/..ATICNSH'P IMWGED 8£FORE """'FLER
.:eY IN 01/llCTION OF -
.11UZO-S2e 4 ltEfii'D zs - ~tdn
F«
td. JN.~.
~
A.
~
.5252-.4
e
ASSY.
TIGHTEN Mmi IILTERAIATEL 't' AND EIIENL 't'
)>
-t
....N
ro
MAINTAIN ~E.
N I m X
::I: )>
.IS
.$()
cC/)
*WNC/IICtE6
-t
-~~
--r--~·
~
--
lo'
C/)
-<
·.S%45·
~
~::g•
;:-..;:~~~~
m
3:
C/)
$4~ -
..1$'1
IP"-1
HI ~ 7f
I
SCT1CN ...
44C.
6B:T10N ......
11911CQY ..,., .- ·:N
(SNSU.)
I
IVMAUAT'IDN ·EJIHIIII ~
FIG. 9
~ w
-~ ~
.6
~
4(J9.111-536
2RFQD
AFTER ASSEMBL Y, LQNER RIVET a& I-lANGER ASSEMBLIES TO 8£ POSITIONED .38 fl:><~ OF UPPER I
TIGHTEN SEO.Jf/ELY •
lsj25 UJ. FT MIX.
THESE CLEARANCES MUSr BE HCUJ AND CCNTlKJLLED {)(M
· 5-1246
FOR QUAUTY AUDIT RJRPDSE THE 10/.ER"-NCE ON niESE OIMENSIOAIS ARE :t. .25 l.IYL£SS
ASSY
OTH£RWis£ SHOWW. TO MUR£ PROPER POSI TIONING 3ltO$I.5 - SIOO ~
z,ffi;)v.
4 RE9V
T1Gif7'£N S£cu<£LY I# LB. IN. MAX.
·~I ·
oF 7H£ EXHAUST"
SYSTEM TH£ FDll.OWING CP£RATIONS MUST 8£ FOLLOWED.
381877-52
...
T"H£ MANIFOLD CONNECTION Mt.JSr BE SECURE
Til£ INTERMEf)ti(T£
2 A'EQb
~R
ASSY. S..240 INS7J4/.J.EO
THC A.(JFFI.ER ASSY. 5230 AND NLET A'P£ ENGAG£0 AS INDIC4T£0 AND TH£ TJllt.PfP€ 10 E100I' REi.AT!CYVSJIIP ~ BeFoRE MUFFLER U- BQLT ASSY. 5252 iWD TIE R£AR HANGER CiAMP SA212 AR£:-TIGHTEN£0.
I
.J71Uzo-sze 4~Zl
e
VtEWN CJii!ClE C.
ZS-35 L8.Fr
TIGHTEN NUrS AlT£1/NAT£LV AND EI/£NLY 70 MiJ£.
I m X
-g -g
en
~-
L_r
-52<11';
_.,_,_}
A
_ , _ ..~
e
~ --_,.,_
p~"$\·-,~--~
~_/_ /
. __)
--
•':~
'-t;g.
~--
- --·--
"
~· ,-'~
"'--~--
;
--
.: -
. H·. f:) ,.
E>JGIN£
z
z-~0.
~A/1/IfJIItiC. -TIA
)>
0
-z.7o
IIIEW..,IItllfEG'f
/ /
-
m
-525$
· S&.30-
-N·~
3:
~31'1111¥ .....
c
&.
., "T1
"AE.W IN 01/lfiCTI()A.I OF...->wB .
tl--t¥Jt.T ASslr:"' JO 1-'CMNI
DU7'6QARD 10"/.15" 70
\\ ~-r.~· ~r
YFIIT!CAL.
-~
WR SI.JPPOilr.(IIU)
-'Ol£LS
•
AJ3
"'A,
SECTION A-A -
FIG.10
N
-1
--~7 ~ ---'Ju•
3£CT1CN 8-8
... c(/)
.75
•
c-g
)>
.50
;:7
0
::I:
WEWNCIIICLE A M'lCAl. 2 "lACE&
?-ZlJL8.
G')
::II
unuTY( 1/W 3I1Z
r m
:II
•
·5'.246
ASSY
:JB2.f.6 ·
~
~b=j]'
«194/·SJ6
•
21UQ't1
T/G'iTEN S£WR£LY ~/Z U . FT. }4AX.
,--.
·. . . - 'VJIJOJ45
~
I
-'
TIGHTEN SECI.RELY lH LS.tJ. MoVe.
/·./_.1 ~~z~f/
..-
'~ ~~:~.
. ,z --- ~
Vo£W IN DIINCTION OF AI
.1 '
,.
.J7U20- S2e
._,.:.,.~ ·~~-:;
Z5-~
ru~
SZ$2
ASSY
RIVFT OF HIWG£R
.SIS ll:II1>\14RD
ENO OF STIJD Wffll SH:>I
ro
T/ESE a.EARAM;£5 MUST" BE HELD AND C01o1T110i.UD.
EMJAGED AS INDICATED AND THE 7741LPII'¥ ro 8001' REU.TICNSHIP CAVGEP fJCFORE MUFFLER U- SOli ASSY. 52$2 AND TN£ REAR HANGER CiAkiP !iA21Z ARE TIGHT"ENCD.
·.sA272 ·
e
JOI;>IUJNT;
,_ VIEW IV Ctt?Ci.£ A. rn
r."7B~-.su ~~N ffCIJRELY SCREW MU M-U.
~
UJFT
BE
TilE MANIFOLD CONNECTION Musr BE SECURE TN£ INTERI.tfEOI,(TE ~R ASSY. 5'\246 INSTNJ..ED TN£ MUFFLER ASSY. 5230 AND NlET PfP£
~fo~tNG·
4 RE~"D
FR
~TION£D
ro
TO NSUR£ IWOPER FQSITICWtNG OF THF: DHAUST SYSTFM THE roLJ.OWING OPERA!'IONS MUST 8ERXLOWED.
2~D.
I i
L~R
ASSEMBLJES
UMCNSIOIVS SHOWN WIT/K)IJT 10LfRAN:E AR£ roR QUCUTY AUDIT PURPOSE THE TOLERANCE ON THESE DIMENSIONS ARE 1. 25 I.NLESS OTHE/;WISE SHOWW.
381877- 52
- s100 -e4 ~Ql?
AFTER ASSEMBLY,
OF <.JPPE"R RIVET:
ASSY.
TK;HTEN M./13 AUEIWATELY AND EVENLY
ro
M
-~
r
I
m X
VIEW IN CllCLE C.
J:
)>
15
c
en en -< en
VIEW N OIICLE 8
-i
3.37'
5230
-i
fl'- ~-
m 3:
L~
_ ~f;;x:~·~_j ~p---~ w-' 0~ ""'-~~,
-szu-
~ ---
~7· llf>-1
100..
· ::
.15
-1
.... N ,i.,
.
.50
_ _. -'1".
-:
:IJ
en
_,.,IN_
c
40 (.d-tv)
""''""
I.N!Ol.T ASSY. 10 PONT 01/f&QtU/0 2a7ZS' lO '6/lriCAL .
-~
. ' .
'' \
I
SECTION 8 ·8
MGalS 54 E;G
SECTION A -A
FAIRI.ANE
!f02
f S!51 · U
NSTALLATION
FIG. 11
(SJNGI.£)
-U~
SI31FM.
-.-... V1
-~
0\
-SA24'-
AS5~
A
AFTEJ< ASSEMBLY. tOWER /WET OF H'.NGER J.SSEM&IES TO BE POSIT/CW£0 .3!1 fOI
-Q-
END OF STUD WITH ~TEST T>IREAD LENGTH 70 BE S~WEO IMV MAN/f'CLD.
2 RE<;J'D.
OF uPPER RNET
*
536
THESE CLEARANCES MUST BE HELtf AND CONTROlLED
[)IMENSJO/I.IS SHOWN WITHOt./T 70LERAJ•<:£ ARE FOR QUA.LITY AU0/7 PURPOSE THE TOLE!Vo.NCE ON ntESE DIMENSIONs AI<£ :. 25 LNLESS OTHERWISE SHOWN TO INSURE PROPER POSITIONING OF THE EXH.AlJ.Sr SYSTEM TN£ FOLLOII'IING OOERATIONS MUST BE fOLLOWED. nt£' M#Jin::>LD CONNE'CTION Musr BE SKURE TilE WTERM£[)1,
-SA272 · 2 REQ'D.
W'W IN~ CF ~W A.
TYPICAL 2 PtAC£S .
e
c:52 -
FROM SURFACE OF MANIFOLD Fl.Af.JQE
VEW N CII>CL£. C
z·. .,o.
TYPICAL 2
PLACES
TIGHT£N Mn:S ALTEI
C•
C)
:lJ
0
c:
... "tJ
N
I
m X
I
R.Ji
-1 REQb 25 · 9S./.13.FT
l>
.ASSY. Rl<
5?!» ~20-32.
-582fl·
c
ASSY. LJI.
C/)
-;
.7S
:so
'"0 '"0
m U'l
- 5256-
5242
ASSY LH (351(302·Ztl}
LH.
l>
@)
0
z
~NFLOC/II
s:
CENTOE
-!5246 -
VI£WIN~nOIU
~~
0/fAit.OW IJ
,,c
~~ ~
@
r m :::0
~~. .·:~~ \.~~~(~~
SECTI()N 8-8
sECTION A-A
~1.3
Sf ... B.C,O
FAI.CJJNSEDAN .!02<351 -2>
(DUAL)
I<$ALLATION - £)fiiii{.6.T Sl:STEM.
FIG. 12
-SA2«, (2 k€9~)
ASSY.
A
40tNI- 3310 (2 /2£Q 'D)
«JQQ-SJcr.
(4R£¢) TIGI/7DJ SI'Cc.REiY
15/?s·;a. rr
3--~
M
~
"
AFTE"' ASSEMBLY. tO>IER /WET OF H<.NGER ASSEMBLIES TV BE POSIT/ON£0 .36 Jt>RWA.Q? OF tiPPER RNET.
END OF STUD WI TH ~TEST T}(RQ.[) LENGTH TV 8E ~WED INTO W.NIFCI-D. THESE CLEARANCES MUS T BE HELD AND CONTROI.LEC
OIMEN SK)N$ SHOWN WIT/10(/T 10/._ERAI'.C£ ARE FOR f;U< U TY AUDIT PURPOSE THE mLEIMNC£ ON TWES£ DIMeNSIONS ARE ~ - 25 LNLESS OTHERWISE SJ.IOWAJ.
(2 QEQ'D)
7111;/,'TPJ SECURELY
/2. UJ.rr hi
TO IA!Sl.IRE PfKJPER POSITIONING OF 7H£ EXH.AI./ST SYSTEM THE FOLl OWING GPE"RATIONS MUST 8E I'OL LOWED.
AND /t)ll>fTING U..,._ARC>S AT45fso'10 ICRIZDNTJ4L
THE MAN!roLD CON.•.'ff:TKJN MUST 8E SR:URE THE WTERME[)KTE HAMJER ASSY. 5A24G /NST>4J.I.£0 1}IE ~FFL£R ASSY 5230 ( 5234 A"'D INLET PIPE
-sA2722 ~EQD.
£~>/GAGED
AS IND/CI.TED AND THE Ti4ti..PII¥ 10
£JDC¥ R£LATICN$JIIP ~ED BEFORE MUFFLEii U-8oi.TASSY.S252 AND 1}E "EAR 5(212 AR£ TIGHTENED.
c
IIFW N OIRECnDN OF' AIIIQ:lW A
VEW IN CI/ULE TYPICAL 2 I"U'CiiS
7rn'CAl 2 PlACES.
e
S:ZSZ-
FROM $/Jill'iiCE OF
2~
AIWI'I:llD FLWQE
:S2S5-
H,w;£1<
CJ.AMP
TIGHTEN MRS AI.TEIINATCLY MID Ei,EM.Y 'TV MNNTAW 71::!RfXE.
R.H ·582410
~
:::0
-t
.... N ,.:,
ASSY. RH.
I m X
::I: )>
c
-~
en
-t
L.H.
en
-<
5232 ~
·.524'"·
i~7· -
I !f>-1
l!l
ASSY
/
/':':~ - · --, ~~~" ff . '
~-
m
•
s::
en
·':~;~ - ~~~' ~ ..
- \ "'..
_.'
\
ENGINE REAR SUI'f'Oilr.(!U.c)
.:;ECTIO'-I 8·8
ASSY. LH. (3Stf30z-zo?
~
SECTION
AtUZ.S
Sf. £ ,:;,
A·A FAtRl.ANE .302 · 3!51· 2~ /f'.$T'AU." - I:J/o, -
FIG. 13
:-,..._ ~ -
{Df,¥1L )
;•_;-£ •..
-~ ........
~
00
_ j -
•
I l2
ASSY' (AEF)
:J~'I'ZO·SJ
5A24b 2 R£<;>0.
t
-eL_ .JilC{2J>f/1(00/ S·SIOO'"rttmJD es Jsts rr)
I
110~
if~ANIFC)I.D
~~ S2~ASSMUFJ
ASS~
---- ~09~ -336
/
4 RE.;>b
~
nCIITEN SEC()(<£1. Y ls/25 ~- FT M1!<.
4a!NI· S36 (2 .PEQ'D)
.ot.
AFTFI? ASSEM8L Y. LOWER liWET OF H'.NGER ASSEMBLIES TO BE POSITION
~
END OF STUD WITH SIORTEST TI
•
F/IOM 'iii/F"ACE OF MANIFOI. 0 rtANC£
THESE CLEARANCES MUST BE HELD ~ND CONTRolLED {);MENSJON$ SHOWN WITHO/JT 7'0/.ERANCE ARE FOR /)'-"'LITY AUOt7 PURPOSE THE Tl'li.ERA.NC£ ON T>;£SE OtMENSIDNS ARE : . 2S LNLESS OTHERWISE $H()WN.
-.
I'I£W N CII!CtE £
TO INSURE PI(()P£R POSITIONING OF THE EXHAUST
SYSTEM THE FOLl()I.VtNG OPERATIONS MUST 8E I'OLLOWED.
2' «c;,Z> -fSSEMBLE CLMIP SY'-fET~Y
TilE ~roLD CONNIXTION
t
A8a/T' VERTICAl.
5A272 2 REQ'D
..r;v ":rn~?"RACES .
OF' AM;JW ,ol,
~~3i!~::fT~R«i)DS2S2
~
W.NJR:J
~·
TYPICAL 2 .PU\CES,
e
TIGHTEN MJ1S Ai.T'ERNA'TFLY It/liD E\.£NLY 70 MNNTAIAJ
ASSY · 58241;
BE SECI.JQE
SA272 ARE 17GHTENED.
V€W IN CIRCLE C .
/SZSS
M~
THE WTERME()I.VE HAI>.GER ASSY. 5.<0246 NST>tLL£D THE ~FFLER ASSY 5230 ( ~32 A'IJO INLET i>/P£ ENGAGED AS NDICAT'EO AND IHE !i4JLPIP£ TO 8001' RELATI(}NSHP GAUGED BEFoRE MUFFLER Cl- BolT -4SSY. 5252 AN:J THI' 11£4R HA~ER CJ.AMI'
~.
\
r
B
0
c
~
-t:-' m
X :X: )>
ASSY. R.ll.
c(/)
A5Srl./l
\
,.,
Q
---4
5ZJO ·52f;3
.lS .SO
ASSY
""tJ ""tJ
2 Reql>
m
(/)
)>
z
-5232
R~
ASSY.
~~· · -·~~ ' SECTJ041 8-8
CNGJI.E SECTION A-A
R£AR St.i'f'Oilr.(RVJ
0
9k~ \S~~
ASSY L.H
r.!t-.07$,. f.!!::J\ a
~
11EW IN CIIIQE D 7>ACAL 2 PlACES .
m
;,o
#C
ljJ
r-liil4_r;N~ I
~-
A«:U'LS
!ill. H .
R
,J!;t-~
14./SrAL~r'cw· :x•~:""
FIG. 14
c-n -n ,....
(DI.W.. .)
9'31'EM
12-19
PART
12·3
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE LIMITS
EXHAUST SYSTEM
Ft.
LM.
Inlet Pipe(s) to Exhaust Manifold(s)
25-36
Inlet Pipe to Inlet Pipe Extension Clamp
20-28
Outlet Pipe to Muffler Clamp
20-28
Support Brackets and Insulators to Frame Nut!
15-25
Support Insulator Bracket to Muffler Support Insulator Clamp to Tailpipe 250-2V Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head
5-7 10-14 10-14
REFERENCE TO SERVICE INFORMATION AND NOTES Date
-
Letter No.
Page
Brief Detail
FALCON FAIRLANE w~:~~~~P
CHARGING SYSTEM
GROUP 13
PAGE
PART 13-1-General Charging System Service
13-2
PART 13-2-Bosch Alternator
13-15
PART 13-3-lucas
13-18
Alternator
PART 13-4- Bosch Alternator Regulator
13-22
PART 13-5-lucas
13-26
Alternator Regulator
PART 13-6-Specifkations
13-30
13-2
PART 13-1
GENERAL CHARGING SYSTEM SERVICE
Section
Page
1 Diagnosis 13-2 Battery Low in Charge, Headlights Dim at Idle .. . 13-4 Charge Indicator Light Stays On .... 13-4 Lights and Fuses Fail Prematurely, Short Battery Life ........ ... . 13-4 Alternator Noisy ... 13-4 Warning Light Flickers ... 13-4
0
Section
Page
2 Testing Alternator Test Testing the Altenator System Battery Tests and Conclusions .... 3 Common Adjustments and Repairs Belt Adjustment 4 Cleaning and Inspection
13-7 13-7 13-7 13-11 13-13 13-13 13-13
CHARGING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
The charging system consists of an alternator, alternator regulator, battery, charge indicator light and the necessary wiring to connect the components (Figs. 2 & 3). Four different alternators are used in the XA/ZF model range. 1. Bosch - 40 amp with remote regulator. 2. Lucas 40 amp with integral regulator. 3. Lucas - 55 amp with integral regulator. 4. Lucas - 55 amp with remote regulator. For model application refer to Specifications.
Battery discharge is not always due to charging system defects. Excessive use of lights and accessories while the engine is either oft' or running at low idle; corroded battery cables and connectors; low water level in the battery; or prolonged disuse of the battery, which would permit self-discharge; are all possible reasons which should be considered when a battery is run down or low in charge. Charging system troubles such as low alternator output, no alternator output (indicated by the indicator light being on while the engine is running), or alternator output voltage too high, require testing of both the alternator and the alternator regulator.
FIG. 1-Aiternator Unit -Assembled Alternator regulator failures are usually not recognised except by the direct effect on the alternator output, and, of course, eventual battery discharge. As the regulator is the control valve for the alternator, it acts to protect the battery by pre·· venting excessive voltage output. Discharge of the battery to ground through the alternator is prevented
by the diodes of the alternator which permit current flow in one direction (to the battery) only. Proper adjustment of the alternator regulator is very important.
The wad map t~· pe of procedures which follow will assist in a logical sequence of pinpointing specific troubles. ALWAYS DETERMINE THE CAUSE OF FAILURE AS WELL AS MAKING THE REPAIR.
PART 13-1-GENERAL CHARGING SYSTEM SERVICE
13-3
-::r -,-
+ -+-
r
FIG. 2- Lucas Charging Circuit 14 AC Shown.
. I I
H
I I l_ __________ l I
I
FIG.· 3- Bosch Charging System
PRECAUTIONS TO TAKE ON ALTERNATOR EQUIPPED VEHICLES
1. Polarity and Connections. The alternator is for use on negative earth electrical systems only. Polarity cannot be reversed by 'Flashing' the field terminals as with the dynamo and any attempt to do so will damage the alternator. 2. Refitting Vehicle Battery. Reversed battery connections will damage the alternator rectifiers. When refitting, first fit the positive + connector to the battery positive + terminal and then fit the negative connector to the negative - battery terminal. 3. High Rate Battery Charging. Advisable to first disconnect the battery negative cable thus isolating the alternator from the battery and external charging equipment. 4. Battery Connections. The battery must never be disco!}nected while the engine is running or damage may occur to the rectifier and/or control box semi-conductor devices. For this reason the practice of using a slave battery to start the engine and subsequently reconnecting the original battery whilst the engine is running must not be attempted. It is likewise inadvisable to break or make any other connections in the alternator circuit while the engine is running.
13-4
GROUP 13-CHARGING SYSTEM
5. Alternator Main Output Cable. (a)The cable connecting the alternator and the battery is 'live' even when the engine is not running. Care must be taken not to earth this live cable if it should ever be removed, or damage to the cable will occur. (b )The alternator must never be run with the main output cable disconnected either at the alternator or battery end while the field remains energised or the rectifiers may be damaged. 6. Arc Welding. The possibility of damage to the semi-conductor devices during arc welding operations on a vehicle is very slight. However, it is a worthwhile precaution to isolate the control box and alternator by disconnecting their wmng connectors prior to carrying out any arc welding work on the vehicle. 7. Testing Semi-Conductor Devices. Never use an ohmmeter of the type incorporating a hand driven generator for checking the rectifier or transistors. BATTERY LOW IN CHARGE, HEADLIGHTS DIM AT IDLE Refer to Fig. 4 for these symptoms.
CHARGE INDICATOR LIGHT STAYS ON Refer to Fig. 5 for this symptom. Oth~1 · symptoms covered under this heading- a1·e : - batte1·y will not hold charge; altt>l nator has no output; alternator has low output. :'\OTE I. If tht> owner has had previous difficulty with the battery runninJ.~: down and past history does not indicate that thl' problem i:,; due to l'Xl·essive nig·ht driving, l'Xcessive use of accessories, short tl"ips Ol' extended periods of .idle, then it is suggested that the complete c:harging system he ehel:kl'd. NOTE2. Test the alternator output as described in the applicable part of this Group. NOTE 3. Check the voltage regulator setting. Only the Bosch regulator is adjustable.
If either type of Lucas regulator is outside specification it must be replaced. Adjust the voltage regulator if necessary (Bosch). Refer to applicable alternator part of this group. NOTE4. An output of 2 to 5 amperes less than that specified usually indicates an open diode. An output of approximately 10 amperes less than that specified usually indicates a shorted diode. (Also see under "Alternator Noisy"). NOTES. A condition where normal output results when testing as in NOTE 2, but where low or no output results when the system is nbrmally connected, could be the result of faulty field circuit wiring. Before replacing the regulator, check the field wiring as follows:If the regulator operation is satisfactory, check the wire from the accessory terminal of the ignition switch to the voltage regulator, and the wire from the voltage regulator to the alternator. Repair or replace as necessary. Lucas - Remote regulator Remove wiring plug from the regulator. Switch on the ignition and check voltage at F and IND terminals in wiring harness. Battery voltage should be indicated. Lucas - Integral regulator Remove wiring plug from IND terminal of the alternator. Switch on ignition. Check voltage available of IND terminal of harness. Battery voltage should be available. Bosch - Remote regulator Remove wiring plug from the regulator. Switch on the ignition and check for battery voltage at the D+ terminal in the harness. Switch off the ignition and replace the wiring plug. If all checks in NOTE 5 are satisfactory to this point it remains only to ensure that the regulator is effeotively earthed. The Lucas injegral regulator earths through a mounting screw to the alternator frame . The remote regulators earth through their mounting brackets to the body shed metal. LIGHTS & FUSES FAIL PREMATURELY, SHORT LIFE
BATTERY
Refer to Fig. 6 for these symptoms.
Other symptoms covered under this heading are: battery uses excessive amount of water; burning of; distributor points, ignition resistor wire, or coil; high battery charging rate.
ALTERNATOR NOISY When investigating the complaint of alternator noise, first try to localize the noise area to make sure that the alternator is at fault l'ather than the alternator belt, water pump, or another part of the vehicle. Start the engine and use a stethoscope or similar sound detector instrument to localize the noise. An alternator bearing, water pump bearing or belt noise is usually evidenced by a squealing sound. An alternator with a shorted diode will normally whine (Magnetic noise) and will be most noticeable at idle speeds. Perform the alternator output tests. If the output is approx. 10 amperes less than that specified,, a shorted diode is usually indicated. To eliminate the belt(s) as the cause of noise, check the belt(s) for bumps, apply a light amount of belt dressing to the belt(s). If the alternator belt is at fault, adjust the t.elt to specification, or replace the belt if necessary. If the belt(s) is satisfactory and the noise is believed to be in the alternator or water pump, remove the alternator belt. Start the engine and listen for the noise as a double check to be !lUre that the noise is not caused by another component. Use this test and the sound detector test to isolate the offending unit. If the noise is traced to the alternator, remove it and check bearings for play or roughness.
CHARGE INDICATOR/WARNING LIGHT FLICKERS This condition may be caused by dirty or oxidised regulator contacts loose o'r damaged connections in the charging system wu·mg harness, worn brushes, or improper brush tension.
PART 13-1-GENERAL CHARGING SYSTEM SERVICE
13-5
IIATTERY LOW IH CHARGE HEADLIGHTS DIM AT IDLE
•
•
CI·UCK I=OA A BROUN, LOOSE: OQ SLIPPING ALT£RNATOR DRIYit BltLT . IN SPitCT 8.UTI:Cl'f , CAILt.S A.NO CMAIIGING SYSHM WIRING FOR GOOO ltUCTRICAL COtrr.ITACT . CLI:AN nu:
UTHR'f TltRMINALS AND TIGMTitN CON'•"CTIONS AS NC:CitSSAAY
All
BATTERY CAPACITY TEST USE A SUITABLE HIGH lATE DISCHARGE SAnElY TESTEI ADJUST RESISTANCE UNTIL AMMETEI lEADS 3 TIMES AMPEI-HOUI IATING OF IAnEIY HOLD FOil 15 SECONDS AND lEAD VOLTAGE
I
I
VOLTAGE OVER 9.6
VOLTAGE LESS THAN 9.6
CHECK SPECIFIC GRAVITY. CHARGE BATTERY, IF BELOW 1.230. OTHERWISE BATTERY IS OK
CHECK SPECIFIC GRAVITY OF EACH CELL
MORE THAN SO POINTS (O.OSO) BETWEEN CELLS
LESS THAN SO POINTS (O.OSO) BETWEEN CELLS
ADD WATER IF NECESSARY AND CHARGE BATTERY PER CHARGING SCHEDULE AND REPEAT CAPACITY TEST
TOTAL VOLTAGE MORE THAN 9.6
TOTAL VOLTAGE LESS THAN 9.6
•
I~ THE OWNER HAS HAD PREVIOUS DlffiCULITY WITH THE BATTERY-RUNNING DOWN AND PAST HISTORY DOES HOT INDICATE THAT THE PROBLEM IS OUE TO EXCESSIVE NIGHT DRIVING, EXCESSIVE USE Of ACCESSORIES, SHORT TRIPS -OR EXTENDED PERIODS Of IDLE , THEN IT IS SUGGESTED THAT THE COMPLETE CHARGING SYSTEM BE CHECKED.
FIG. 4- Diagnosis Chart, 'Battery Low in Charge, Headlamps Dim at Idle'
GROUP 13-CHARGING SYSTEM
13-6
CHARGE INDICATOR LIGHT STAYS ON BATTERY WILL HOT HOLD CHARGE ALTERNATOR HAS HD OUTPUT ALTERNATOR HAS LOW OUTPUT CHECK FOR A BROKEN, LOOSE OR SLIPPING DRIVE BELT . INSPECT BATTERY , CABLES, AND CHARGING SYSTEM WIRING FOR GOOO ELECTRICAL CONTACT . CLEAN THE BATTERY TERMINALS AND TIGHTEN ALL CONNECTIONS AS NECESSARY . CHECK THE BATTERY SPECIFIC GRAVITY, CHARGE THE BATTERY AND PERFORM THE BATTERY TESTS . SEE NOTE NO. I
BATTERY TESTS UNSATISFACTORY
•
•
(II PERFORI.I THE CHARGING CIRCUIT RESISTANCE THTS.
CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR SEE NOTE NO. 3
121
(I) CHECK THE BATTERY TO FIELD WIRING . SEE NOTE NO. 5.
T(ST ALTii:ANATOR IHOii:Pii:NO,NT 01= VHUCU WIRING .
SH
FIG .
C21
7.
Uli:
FIG. 5- Diagnosis Chart, 'Charge Indicator Light Stays On' LIGHTS AND FUSES FAIL PREMATURELY SHORT BATl fRY LIFE BATTERY USES EXCESSIVE AMOUNT DF WATER BURNING OF DISTRIBUTOR POINTS, RESISTOR WIRE, OR COIL HIGH CHARGING RATE
• CHECK ALL CHARGING SYSTEM WIRING CONNECTIONS INCLUDING THE REGULA TOR GROUND WIRE . TIGHTEN OR REPAIR AS REQUIRED. CHECK THE ALTERNATOR VOLTAGE LIMITEP. SETTING . IF THE CONTACTS ARE BURNED, REPLACE THE REGULATOR.
I
VOLTAGE IEGULATOI WITHIN SPECIFICAnON
I
VOLTAGE IEGULATOI 5m1NG TOO HIGH
• ADJUST TO THE LOW END OF THE SPECIFIED RANGE.
FIG. 6- Diagnosis Chart, 'Lights and Fuses Fail Prematurely'
Tli:ST ALTii:ANATOR INDii:Pii:NDii:NT OF YS:HICU WIRING.
• IF THE CONTACTS ARE BURNED, REPLACE THE REGULATOR . IF THE POINTS ARE SATISFACTORY, ADJUST TO SPECIFICATION.
FIG .
7.
·A
PART 13-1-GENERAL CHARGING SYSTEM SERVICE
EJ
TESTING PROCEDURES
TESTING THE ALTERNATOR SYSTEM Before any tests are made on the alternator or regulator the battery should be checked and the circuit inspected for faulty wiring or insulation, loose or corroded connections and poor ground circuits. Cheek alternator belt tension to be sure the belt is tight enough to prevent slipping under load. Any unfavourable conditions noted in the inspection should be corrected before ·proceeding. NOTE: THE IGNITION SWITCH SHOULD BE OFF AND THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE DISCONNECTED FROM THE BATTERY BEFORE MAKING ANY TEST CONNECTIONS. FAILURE TO OBSERVE THESE STEPS MAY RESULT IN DAMAGE TO THE SYSTEM.
1.
13-7
BATTERY TEST:
Test the battery with a hydrometer. If not fully charged it should be placed on charge or a fully t'harged battery temporarily installed for test purposes.
•
FIG. 7- Test Connector
ALTERNATOR TESTS Make an alternator output test before testing the Voltage Regulator. Use care when connecting any test equipment to the alternator system, as the alternator output terminal is connected to the battery at all times. Circuits for testing alternators and regulators are shown in Figures 10/11 and 27/35 . ALTERNATOR OUTPUT TESTON ENGINE When the alternator output test is conducted off the car, a test bench must be used. Follow the procedure given by the test bench equipment manufacturer. When the alternator is removed from the car for this purpose always disconnect a battery cable as the alternatol' output connector is connected to the battery at all times. NOTE: To prevent short circuiting during testing operations it js essential that a test connector shown in Fig. 7 be used. A variable load such as a Carbon pile rheostat must be available to place across the battery. A switched lamp bank of 800 Watt
capacity is a suitable substitute for a carbon pile . ALL OUTPUT TESTING IS TO BE MADE WITH THE ALTERNATOR WARM . RUN ALTERNATOR ON FULL LOAD FOR 5 MINUTES PRIOR TO MAKING TESTS. BOSCH
1. Ensure that the ignition is switched off. 2. Disconnect the battery earth cable. 3. Remove the connector plugs from the alternator main (B+) and field terminals (DF and D+ ). 4. Install the main terminal of the test connector to the alternator B+ terminal and one lead to the DF terminal of the alternator (Figs. 8 and 10). 5. Connect one lead of the test connector to the + (Red) lead of a moving coil, 0 - 60 amp ammeter , connect the - (Black) ammeter lead to the B+ terminal in the wiring harness. 6. Connect the positive lead of a good quality voltmeter to the test connector aml the negative lead to ground . 7. Replace the battery earth cable. 8. Connect the carbon pile rheo-
13-8
GROUP 13-CHARGING SYSTEM
FIG. 8 - Bosch Alternator Terminals stat or the switched lamp bank to the battery terminals. (Ensure that the load control is in the off position). 9. Connect a tachometer to the engine. 10. Start the engine and slowly increase engine speed to 2400 R.P.M. (6000 R.P.M. alternator speed). 11. Adjust the carbon pile or lamp bank until a constant 14 volts is achieved. 12. The ammeter should now register a 40 amp output. 13. Reduce engine speed to idle R.P.M. and remove the battery load. CAUTION: Never remove the battery load while the engire is running at speed 14. Switch off the engine and remove the battery earth cable. 15. Remove the test meters and the test connector and replace the original wiring to the alternator. 16. Replace the battery earth cable. Should the alternator fail to produce the rated output it must be removed from the vehicle for further tests and repairs.
LUCAS 14ACR - all 8 cyl. vehicles. Has integral regulator. 14AC - All 6 cyl. vehicles fitted
FIG. 9- Lucas Alternator Terminals 14 ACR Shown
with air-conditioning. Has remote regulator. NOTE: When testing the output of the Lucas 14ACR alternator on the vehicle the regulator, the field F terminal is not accessible. To isolate the regulator, earth the power transistor to the alternator body by using a small screwdriver between the transistor case and the slip ring end head. 1. Ensure that the ignition is switched off. 2. Disconnect the battery earth cable. 3. Remove the wiring plugs from the alternator (Fig. 9). 4. Install the main terminal of the test connector to the + terminal of the alternator (Fig. 11). 5. Connect one lead of the test connector to the IND terminal of the alternator. 6. Connect one lead of the test connector to the positive lead of a 0 - 60 amp moving coil ammeter. Connect the .negative (Black) lead of the ammeter to the + terminal of the wiring harness. 7. Connect the positive lead of a good quality voltmeter to the test connector and the negative lead to ground.
14AC only: connect a jumper lead from the F terminal to ground. 14ACR only: earth the power transistor case to the slip ring end head. 8. Replace the battery earth cable. 9. Connect the carbon pile rheostat or switched lamp bank across the battery terminals. (Ensure that the load control is in the off position). 10. Connect a tachometer to the engine. 11. Start the engine and slowly increase the engine speed to give approximately 6000 alternator R.P .M. Refer to specifications for engine R.P.M. chart. 12. Adjust carbon pile or lamp bank untill3.4-13.6 volts is achieved. Rated output should now be registered on the ammeter. Do not allow voltage to exceed 15V. 13. Reduce the engine speed to idle R.P.M. and remove the battery load. CAUTION: Never remove the battery load while the engine is running at speed. 14. Switch off the engine and remove the battery earth cable. 15. Remove the test meters and the test connector and replace the original wiring to the alternator.
PART 13-1-GENERAL CHARGING SYSTEM SERVICE
FIG. 10- Output Test Bosch
9ATR Control
F
Ammeter
...I..-
FIG. 11 -Output Test Lucas
13-9
13-10 16. Replace the battery Should the alternator duce the rated output it moved from the vehicle tests and repairs.
GROUP earth cable. fail to promust be refor further
TESTING THE ROTOR
1. Test the rotor windings by connecting an ohmmeter between the slip rings (Fig. 12). If the reading is above specifications, an open circuit is indicated.
13-CHARGING SYSTEM
If the reading is below specifications, short circuited windings are indicated. 2. Test the rotor insulation by using a 12V battery and test lamp (Fig. 13). Place one prod on a slip ring, the other on the rotor shaft. The test lamp should not light. TESTING THE STATOR
1. Test the stator windings by
FIG. 12- Rotor Winding Test
000000
connecting an ohmmeter between the winding ends (Fig. 14). The readings must be even on each phase . High reading indicates open circuit. Low reading indicates short circuit. 2. Test the stator insulation by using a 12V battery and test lamp between each winding end and the lamination pack (Fig. 15). The test lamp should not light.
FIG. 14- Stator Winding Test
000000 12V
FIG. 13- Rotor Insulation Test
FIG. 15- Stator Insulation Test
13-11
PART 13-1-GENERAL CHARGING SYSTEM SERVICE FIELD DIODES
1. Place one test probe on the diode terminal strip (Lucas) or junction (Bosch) and the other probe on the IND terminal (Lucas) or A terminal (Bosch) (Figs. 16 & 18). 2. By reversing the probes it can be established if one or more of the field diodes has failed due to an open or short circuit. HEAT SINKS
The Negative heat sink is grounded to the alternator frame. The Positive heat sink is insulated from the alternator frame and from the Negative heat sink. NOTE: The Bosch rectifier is not repairable and if found faulty in the foregoing tests it must be replaced. The Lucas rectifier is .serviced in three subassemblies. I. Positive diode and heat sink assembly. 2. Negative diode and heat sink assembly. 3. Field diode and insulator assembly.
BATTERY TESTS AND CONCLUSIONS
FIG. 16- Rectifier Pack Lucas TESTING THE DIODES (RECTIFIER ASSEMBLY)
AND
In the event of a fault in one or more of the diodes being indicated by the. alternator output test, the rectifier pack must be removed from the alternator. There are two main possibilities which can destroy a diode during service, either a break-down in resistance to current flow caused by high current flow and high temperature, or an open circuit in both directions almost always the consequence of excess voltage.
POWER DIODES
I . Apply one probe to the diode terminal strip (Lucas) or junction (Bosch) and the other probe to the appropriate heat sink. 2. Reverse the probes. The test lamp should light in one direction only. Should the lamp light in both directions the diode is short circuited. (If both diodes of one phase are short circuited all 6 diodes will show a short circuit when tested). If the test lamp does not light in either direction the diode is open circuited.
Tests are made on a battery to determine the state of charge and also the condition. The ultimate result of these tests is to show that the battery is good, needs recharging, or must be replaced. If a battery has failed, is low in charge, or requires water frequently, good service demands that the reason for this condition be found. It may be necessary to follow trouble shooting procedures to locate the cause of the trouble. (Section 1. in this part) .
Hydrogen and oxygen gases are produced during normal battery
CONNECTION !CATHODE) CURRENT FLOW
1
HOUSING
Take apecial care ot the .. aolder connection•
FIG. 17 -Diode Connections For testing purposes it is not necessary to disconnect the individual diodes, however it is essential that the stator leads be unsoldered from the rectifier pack. A 12 volt battery with test probes and a 2 watt globe in series is used for diode testing.
Poeitive Heat Sink
FIG. 18 -Bosch Rectifier Pack
GROUP 13-CHARGING SYSTEM
13-12
BATTERY CAPACITY TEST USE A SUITABLE HIGH lATE DISCHARGE IAr:TERY TESTER ADJUST RESISTANCE UNTIL AMMETER lEADS 3 TIMES AMPER-HOUI IATING OF IATrERY HOLD FOR 1 5 SECONOS AND READ VOL'T'AGE
I
I
VOLTAGE OVER 9.6
VOLTAGE LESS THAN 9.6
CHECK SPECIFIC GRAVITY . CHARGE BATTERY, IF BELOW 1.230. OTHERWISE BATTERY IS OK
CHECK SPECIFIC GRAVITY OF EACH CELL
MORE THAN 50 POINTS (0.050) BETWEEN CELLS
LESS THAN 50 POINTS (0.050) BETWEEN CELLS
I ADD WATER IF NECESSARY AND CHARGE BATTERY PER CHARGING SCHEDULE AND REPEAT CAPACITY TEST
I
I
I
TOTAL t OL TAGE MORE THAN 9.;
TOTAL VOLTAGE LESS THAN 9.6
FIG. 19- Battery Capacity Test operation. This gas mixture can explode if flames or sparks are brought near the vent openings of the battery. The sulphuric acid in the battery electrolyte can cause a serious burn if spilled on the skin or spattered in the eyes. It should be flushed away with large quantities of clear water. Before attempting to test a battery, it is important that it be given a thorough visual examinaton to determine if it has been damaged. The presence of moisture on the outside of the case and/ or low electrolyte level in one or more of the cells are indications of possible battery damage. Some batteries incorporate a single one-piece cover which completely seals the top of the battery and the individual cell connectors. This cover must not be pierced with test probes to perform individual cell
tests. A battery can be tested by determing its ability to deliver current. This may be determined by conducting a Battery Capacity Test. (Fig. 19) shows the battery capacity test in outline form.
BATTERY CAPACITY TEST A high rate discharge tester (Battery-Starter) in conjunction with a voltmeter is used for this test. 1. Turn the control knob on the Rattery-Starter Tester to the OFF position. 2. Turn the voltmeter selector switch to the 16 or 20 volt position. 3. Connect both positive test leads to the positive battery post and both negative test leads to the negative battery post. THE VOLTMETER CLIPS MUST CONTACT
THE BATTERY POSTS AND NOT THE HIGH RATE DISCHARGE TESTER CLIPS. UNLESS THIS IS DONE THE ACTUAL BATTERY TERMINAL VOLTAGE WILL NOT BE INDICATED. 4. Turn the load control knob in a clockwise direction until the ammeter reads three times the ampere hour rating of the battery. (A 45 ampere hour battery should be tested at 135 amperes load). 5. With the ammeter reading the reuuired load for 15 seconds, note the voltmeter reading. A VOID LEAVING THE HIGH DISCHARGE LOAD ON THE BATTERY FOR PERIODS LONGER THAN 15 SECONDS. 6. If the voltmeter readin~r is 9.6 volts or more, the battery has good output capacity and will readily accept a charge, if required.
PART 13-1-GENERAL CHARGING SYSTEM SERVICE Check the specific gravity. If the specific gravity reading is 1.230 or below, add water if necessary and charge the battery until it is fully charged. The battery is fully charged when the cells are all gassing freely and the specific gravity ceases to rise for three successive readings taken at hourly intervals. Additional battery testing will not be necessary after the battery has been properly charg-ed . 7. If the voltag·e reading obtained during the capacity test is helow !1.6 volts, check the specific )!Tavity of each cell. !l. If the difference between any two cells is more than 50 points (0.050), the battery is not satisfactory for service and should be replaced.
9.
If the difference between cells
9
is less than 50 points ( 0.050) the battery should be charged according to the charging schedule. In some cases the electrolyte level may be too low to obtain a specific gravity reading. In such cases water should be added until the electrolyte level just covers the ring in the filler well, then charge the battery at 35 amperes for the maximum charging time indicated
in specifications, for capacity of the battery being tested. 10. After the battery has been r:harged, repeat the capacity test. If the capacity test battery voltage is still less than 9.6 volts, replace the battery. If the voltage is 9.6 or more, the battery is satisfactory for service. 11 . If the battery is found to be discharged only, check for a loose fan belt, loose electrical connections, charging system performance, and make a battery drain test (in this secton).
13-13
BATTERY DRAIN TEST This test will determine if there is any external load that would cause unwanted battery discha rge. Disconnect
the
battery
ground
cable and connect the positive of a voltmeter to the cable. nect the negative lead of the meter to the battery negative
lead Convoltpost.
With all circuits off, the meter should read zero. Any battery external load will cause th e voltmeter to read full battery voltage. If the car is equipped with an electric clock. momentarily connect the battery ground cable to the battery negative post to make certain that the clock is wound. When the clock runs down at the end of approxima tel y 2 minutes the voltmeter will show full battery voltage.
COMMON ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
BELT ADJUSTMENTALTERNATOR 1. Loosen the alternator mounting bolt and the adjusting arm bolts.
D
2. Apply pressure on the alternator front housing only and tighten the adjusting arm to alternator bolt.
3. Check the belt tens ion using tool 8620-B. Adjust the belt for specified tension. 4. Tighten all mounting bolts.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
1. The rotor, stator, and bearings must not be cleaned with solvent. Wipe these parts off with a clean cloth.
2. Rotate both the front and rear bearings and assess their condition by feelin g for excessive play or roughn ess. Load the bearings by hand pressure when checking for roughness and rotate the outer race at lea5 t six turns in this manner. Look for excessive lubricant leakage. Replace bearings if any of these conditions exist. 3. Inspect the t·otor assembly for damage to the pole surfaces due to contact with stationary components; scores or bruises on the
slipring; loose slip ring; damaged rotor leads; shaft thread damage etc. Replace or repair this assembly as required. 4. Inspect the pulley and fan for excessive looseness on the rotor shaft. Inspect the fan for cracks and bent blades. Replace the fan if cracks art! apparent. 5. Check both end heads for nacks, stripped threads (particulal'ly on the mounting lugs), distortion , enlarged diode holes etc. Replace defective end-heads.
6. Check the stator windings f01 signs of overheating. Make sure the stator leads are not fractured or broken oft' inside the sleeving.
Re-solder any poor connections. Replace stator if insulation burnt and / or flakin g·. 7. Inspect the bly for distortion brushes for wear b,reakage. This is parison with a sprin!(' assembly.
is
brush-card assemand wear. Inspect and lead or spring best done by comnew brush and
VERY IMPORTANT
Before assembling the Alternator, refer to appropriate section for details of Insulating Washers and the position in which they are used. Failure to insulate the components correctly can damage both the Alternator and Regulator.
13-14
IJ
GROUP 13-CHARGING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
1. ALTERNATOR DOES NOT CHARGE:
D.
A. Driving belt loose. B. Worn brushes or rings.
c.
Sticking brushes.
D.
Open field circuit.
3.
2.
Faulty diode rectifiers.
H.
Faulty regulator.
LOW OR VARIABLE CHARGING RATE: A.
LOW OUTPUT AND LOW BATTERY
B.
Low regulator setting (Bosch)
C.
Faulty diode rectifier.
D.
Grounded stator winding.
Open circuit in stator wind-
G.
5.
BURNT REGULATOR CONTACTS~(Bosch)
A. High resistance in charging circuit.
E . Open charging circuit. F. ing.
Open circuit in stator wind-
ine.
.£.
OVERCHARGING:
A.
High regulator setting.
B.
Shorts in rotor field coil.
C. Earthed rotor field coil or slip-rings.
6.
REGULATOR CONTACT POINTS WELDED: (Bosch)
A. High resistance ground circuit between alternator and regulator. 7.
UNSATISFACTORY WARNING LIGHT OPERATION:
A. Regulator set too high (Bosch)
Driving belt loose.
B. Regulator contacts welded (Bosch)
B. High resistance in charging circuit (check battery terminals).
C. Regulator coil winding open (Bosch) D. Regulator not effectively earthed.
C. High resistance in earth return circuit.
A. Faults in alternator and regulator operation. B.
Low voltage setting (Bosch)
OUTPUT TEST DIAGNOSIS Warning Light
Temperature Noise
Output
Probable Fault and Associated Damage
Normal at standstill, goes out at cut-in speed but then glows progressively brighter as speed increases.
High
Normal
Higher than normal at 6000 rev/min
A positive output diode open-circuited (May damage rotor winding and output stage, overheat brush boxes and blow warning light).
Light out under all conditions.
High
Excessive
Very low at 6000 rev/min
A positive output diode short circuited (May cause failure of associated 'field' diode).
Normal at standstill, dims appreciably at cut-in and gets progressively dimmer at higher spe_eds.
Normal
Excessive
Poor at low speed. Slightly below normal at 6000 rev/min.
A negative output diode open-circuited
Normal at standstill, dims slightly at cut-in and remains so throughout speed range.
Normal
Excessive
Very low at all speeds above cut-in.
A negative output diode shortcircuited. (The same symptoms would be apparent if one phase winding was shorted to earth).
Normal at standstill, dims slightly at cut-in and remains so throughout speed range.
Norm11l
Normal
Lower than normal at 6000 rev/min.
A 'field' diode open-circuited.
Normal at standstill, dims appreciably at cut-in and remains so at higher speeds.
Normal
Normal
Very low.at 6000 rev/min.
A 'field' diode short-circuited.
13-15
PART 13·2
BOSCH ALTERNATOR
Section Page 1 Description and Operation ................ 13-15 2 Removal and Installation ...•.......... . .. 13-17
IJ
Secdon Page 3 Major Repair Operations . . .. . .. .. .... . . .. 13-17
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
The Bosch alternator is a three phase alternating current (AC) generator with six integrally mounted silicon diodes that convert the AC into direct current (DC) suitable for charging the battery. A further three smaller diodes are fitted into the rectifier pack to provide DC for field excition via the voltage regulator. A remote voltage regulator , mounted on the fender apron, IS used to control the alternator voltage output. The alternator is inherently self current limiting and the diodes prevent reverse current flow from the battery. The alternator consists of the following major parts: 1. The Stator, a laminated frame which carries in slots the three phase star connected output winding. 2. The Rotor, comprising the slip rings and field (exciter) windings and is constructed of interlaced poles or fingers which form alternate north and south poles. The field winding is wound concentric with the shaft inside the claw poles and has its ends connected to the slip rings. 3. The Rectifier Pack containing nine diodes. The six output diodes are arranged in a three phase bridge connection having three diodes of positive polarity and three diodes of negative polarity. The three field diodes are in the D+ circuit and allow portion of the
DC output current to be used for indicator light operation and excitation of the field winding through the regulator. 4. The two end heads which carry the ball bearings. The drive end head incorporates the mounting lug while the slip ring end head contains the brush gear and rectifier pack. Alternator Terminals - Fig. 8 D+ Field diode junction for regulator D+ and indicator lamp DF Field terminal connection for regulator DF. B+ Battery connection + Radio suppressor terminal
OPERATION With the ignition switch turned on and the engine running (Fig. 3), the flow of current through the rotor field coil energises the twelve pole rotating electro magnet. The rotation of the energised rotor unit induces an A.C. voltare in the three phase rotor winding which ia converted into D.C. by the aix diode rectifiers and conducted to the B+ terminal. The rectifiers, which only conduct in one direction, prevent the battery which is directly and permanently connected to the alternator output terminal, from diachar&'ing through the alternator. This characteristic of the rectifiers eliminates the need for a cut-out relay, BUT IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT THE BATTERY MUST ALWAYS BE CON-
lii'ECTED WITH THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL TO GROUND. FAILURE TO CONNECT A BATTERY WITH THE CORRECT POLARITY WILL DAMAGE THE ALTERNATOR AND REGULATOR. DISCONNECT ONE VEHICLE BATTERY LEAD WHEN USING A QUICK CHARGER.
Portion of this D.C. is directed to the field excitation diodes, one end of each diode being connected to a phase of the stator and the other end to the D+ terminal. From the D+ terminal the current is routed through the regulator to the DF terminal of the alternator. The current now passes through the field winding to ground. As the speed of the rotor increases, the induced vol tage in the stator winding increases, causing more current to flow to satisfy the load equirements. However, the inductive reactance of the stator winding provides an automatic upper limit on the cu.rrent output of the alternator. The function of the voltage limiter is to control the output voltage of the Alternator to meet the needa of the vehicle electrical system which it accomplishes by controlling the flow of current in the rotor field coil.
w
' 0\
~O@
-
-
w I
I m z m ;o G)
)>
,....
()
I
)>
;o G)
z
G) (/)
~Q~~~~ FIG. 20- Bosch Alternator- Exploded View
-<
(/)
~~
-t
m
3:
(/)
m
;o
<
~
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
DRIVE END HEAD STATOR RECTIFIER PACK SLIP RING END HEAD BRUSH GEAR ASSEMBLY RADIO SUPPRESSOR ROTOR
()
m
PART 13-2-BOSCH ALTERNATOR
EJ
13-17
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION REMOVAL 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. 2. Loosen the alternator mounting bolts and remove the adjust· ment arm to alternator bolt. (Better access to these may be possible with the vehicle raised) . 3. Disengage the alternator belt.
EJ MAJOR
Remove the alternator mounting bolt, disconnect the alternator wiring- harness and remove the alternator. INSTALLATION 1. Attach the alternator wiring harness. Position the alternator to the engine, and install the alternator mounting bolt finger-tight.
2. Install the adjustment arm t o a lternator bolt. 3. Adjust th e belt tension using· tool T63L-8620-A . Apply pressure on the alternator front housing <' nly, when ti g htening the belt. Tig hten t he adjusting arm bolts and the mounting bolt. 4. Lower the car and connect the batte r y g round cable.
REPAIR OPERATION
DISMANTLING THE ALTERNATOR
1. Mark both end housing and the stator with a scribe mark. 2. Remove the brush holder by unscrewing the 2 attaching screws. 3. Remove the 4 through bolts. 4. Separate the drive end head and rotor sub-assembly from the slip ring end head and stator sub-assembly. Do not loose the wave washer from the slip ring end head bearing recess. 5. Using long nose pliers on the diode leads as heat sinks unsolder the 3 stator leads from the rectifier assembly and remove the stator. 6. Remove the 4 attaching screws and withdraw the rectifier assembly from the slip ring end head. 7. To remove the rotor from the drive end head hold the rotor in a vice equipped with soft jaws. Remove the pulley retaining nut , lock washer, spacer and pulley. Remove the second spacer and the fan. A third spacer (shouldered) is fitted in the end head, remove this spacer. 8. The end head may now be supported on a press and the rotor pressed out. A shouldered spacer will be found on the shaft behind the bearing.
9. Remove the drive end head bearing by unscrewing the 2 retaining plate screws, re~ove the plate and withdraw the bearing. 10. Remove the bearing from the slip ring and of the rotor shaft with a suitable puller. 11. For cleaning and inspection see Part 1 of this group. ASSEMBLY
1. Position the drive end head ·bearing, shielded side first, in the end head. Secure the retaining plate with two screws. 2. Place the smaller of the two shouldered washers on the drive end of the rotor shaft with the shoulder towards the bearing. (Make sure that the jump ring has not been displaced on the shaft.) 3. Push the rotor shaft through the bearing. (This should be a hand push fit.) 4. Place the larger shouldered spacer on the rotor shaft with the shoulder toward the bearing. 5. Position the fan on the shaft with the blades toward the end head and follow it with a spacer, pulley, lock washer and-nut. 6. Grip the rotor in a vice equipped
:..: .
FIG. 21 - Rectifier Pack Fixing Screws
with soft jaws and tighten the pulley nut to specification. 7. Press the slip ring end bearing onto the shaft shielded side first . 8. Position the rectifier pack in the slip ring end head. Insert the two long screws in the insulated holes and the two short screws in the other two mounting holes. Tighten all screws. 9. Position the stator assembly on the slip ring end head and align the scribe marks. 10. Using a pair of pliers as a heat sink on the diode leads quickly solder the stator leads to the terminal strips on the rectifier pack. 11 . Place the wave washer in the slip ring end head bearing recess. 12. Fit the rotor end head and rotor sub-assembly to the slip ring head and ·stator sub-assembly, align the scribe marks and fit the through bolts. 13. Tighten the through bolts evenly. 14. Fit the brush and terminal assembly and tighten the attaching screws. 15. Ensure that the rotor turns freely by hand, install on the vehicle and observe operation.
,·:·
FIG. 22 - Soldering Stator Leads
13-18
PART 13-3
LUCAS ALTERNATOR
Section Page 1 Description and Operation ................ 13-18 2 Removal and Installation ................. 13-20
LUCAS AlTERNATOR Two types of Lucas alternators are used on XA/ZF vehicles. They are the 14 AC-6D model with a remote 9 ATR voltage regulator and
0
Page Section 3 Major Repair Operations ................. 13-20
14 ACR-4D and 6D models with an integral 13 ATR voltage regulator. With the exception of the positioning of the voltage regulator the two types of alternator are basically the same and the following description,
operation and repair procedures apply to both except as noted. The 14 ACR-4D and 6D models vary only in their rated output being 40 and 55 amps respectively.
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
The stator comprises a 36 slot 3-phase star connected output winding on a ring shaped lamination pack, housed between the slip ring end and drive end brackets. The rotor is of 12 pole construction and carries a slip ring fed rotor (field) winding. It is supported by ball bearings in the drive end slip ring end heads. The brush gear for the field system is mounted on the slip ring end
bracket. Two carbon brushes bear against a pair of copper slip rings which encircle the rotor shaft. Rectification of alternator output is achieved by six silicon diodes contained within the slip ring end bracket and connected in a three phase bridge circuit between stator and output terminals. A second rectifier bridge is formed by using three auxiliary low current diodes in con-
FIG. 24- lucas Charging Circuit 14 ACR Shown
junction with three of the six main diodes and at normal operating speeds this supplies the energy for the alternator field coil via the slip rings, brushes and voltage regulator. The diodes and stator windings are cooled by airflow through the alternator induced by a ventilating fan mounted on the rotor shaft at the drive end. An electronic voltage regulator is
.<BBN.&TOR
L tlC.&S 14 .&C
011111!11"1119
~
fi
~
::a
0
c.,
I 01
-
B}1e
w I
()
I
)> ;o
G)
\ \ 1. Shaft Nut 2. Shaft Nut Spring Washer 3. Bearing Collar 4. Pulley 5 . Fan 6 . Drive End Head 7. Fixing Through Bolt 8 . Drive End Bearing 9 . Drive End Bearing Retaining Plate 10. Retaining Plate Screws 11 . Rotor
12. Slip Rings 13. Slip Ring End Bearing 14. Stator 15. Wavy Washer 16. Slip Ring End Bracket 17. Brush Set 18. Brush Box Moulding 19. Field Diode and Terminal Plate Assembly 20. Positive Heat Sink and Diode Assembly 21 . Insulators 22. Negative Heat Sink and Diode Assembly
z
G) (/)
-<
(/)
--1
m
~
-
w I
FIG. 23- Lucas 14 AC Alternator
\()
GROUP 13-CHARGING SYSTEM
13-20
mounted inside the slip ring end head on the ACR type alternator, while on the AC type alternator the remote voltage regulator is mounted on the fender apron. In effect its action is similar to that of the vibrating contact type of voltage regulator, but switchin~ of the field circuit is achieved by transistors instead of vibrating contacts. No cut-out is required since the diodes incorporated in the alternator prevent reverse currents from flowing. No current regulator is required as the inherent self regulating properties of the alternator limit the output current to a safe value. Design features include temperature compensation without the use of a thermistor, radio frequency interference suppression, requires no adjustment in service. The voltage regulator and alternator are isolated from the battery when the engine is stationary by means of the ignition switch.
EJ
OPERATION With the ignition switch turned on and the engine running (Fig. 24), the flow of current through the rotor field coil energises the twelve pole rotating electro magnet. The rotation of the energised rotor unit induces an A.C. voltage in the three phase rotor winding which is converted into D.C. by the aix diode rectifiers and conducted to the + output terminal The rectifiers, which only conduct in one direction, prevent the- battery which is 'directly and permanently connected to the alternator output terminal, from discharging through the alternator. This characteristic of the rectifiers eliminates the need for a cut-out relay, BUT IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT THE BATTERY MUST ALWAYS BE CONNECTED WITH THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL TO GROUND. FAILURE TO CONNECT A BATTERY WITH THE CORRECT POLARITY
WILL DAMAGE THE ALTERNATOR AND REGULATOR. DISCONN ECT ONE VEHICLE BATTERY LEAD WHEN USING A QUICK CHARGER. Portion of the output current is fed through the field diodes to the voltage regulator. From the regulator this current goes to ground via the field windings. As the speed of the rotor increases, the induced voltage in the stator winding increases, causing more current to flow to satisfy the load equirements. However, the inductive reactance of the stator winding provides an automatic upper limit on the current output of the alternator. The function of the voltage limiter is to control the output voltage of the Alternator to meet the needa of the vehicle electrical system which it accomplishes by controlling the flow of current in the rotor field coil.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION REMOVAL 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. 2. Loosen the alternator mounting bolts and remove the adjustment arm to alternator bolt. (Better access to these may be possible with the vehicle raised) . 3. Disengage the alternator belt.
EJ MAJOR
Remove the alternator mounting bolt, disconnect the alterna tor wiring harness a nd remove the alternator. INSTALLATION 1. Attach the alternator wiring harness. Position the alternator to the ~ngine, and install the alternator mounting bolt finger-tight.
2. Install the adjustment arm to a lternator bolt. 3. Adjust the belt tension using tool T63L-8620-A . Apply pressure on the alternator front housing <'nly, when tightening the belt. Tighten the adjusting arm bolts and the mounting bolt. 4. Lower the car and connect the battery ground cable.
REPAIR OPERATION
DISMANTLING THE ALTERNATOR
1. Mark both end housings and the stator with a scribe mark. 2. Withdraw the three through bolts. 3. Separate the drive end head and rotor sub-assembly from the slip ring end head and stator sub-assembly. Do not loose the wave washer from the slip ring end head bearing recess. 4. Using a pair of long nose pliers as a heat sink on the stator wire quickly unsolder the stator leads from the terminal strips on the rectifier pack and remove the stator from the slip ring end head. 5. Remove the two rectifier pack attaching nuts, spring and flat washers. Remove the brush gear attaching screw. Remove the voltage regulator attaching screws (ACR models only). The rectifier pack, brush gear and
voltage regulator (ACR models only) may now be removed as an assembly. NOTE: The rectifier pack may now be tested as detailed on Page 11 of Part 1 and if further dismantling is necessary proceed .as follows. 6. ACR models only, unsolder the regulator leads at the brush gear. 7. Unsolder field diode connections on brush gear terminal. NOTE: It is important this unsoldering operation be carried out as quickly as possible as excessive heat transference from the soldering iron to the brush box moulding could warp the moulding and.result in restricting the free movement of the brushes. This also applies when soldering on the field diode connections during reassembly of the alternator. 8. Using a pair of long nose pliers as a heat sink grip each of the semiconductor wiring terminations in turn
and unsolder the three wires from each, this will separate the Positive, Negative and field diode heat sinks. NOTES: (a) Field diode assembly consisting of three field diodes and insulated moulding is serviced as one unit. (b)Positive and Negative heat sinks are serviced separately as complete units, each unit comprising three diodes and heat sink. ( c) The rectifier insulators and heat sink separators are serviced as a complete kit. For electrical tests on the components refer to pages 10 and 11 of part one of this group. ASSEMBLY
1. Reassemble the rectifier assembly placing the four insulation pieces and the Positive male Lucar in original
PART 13-3-L UCAlS ALTERNATOR positions. 2. Place the rectifier in position in the body of the SRE bracket and fit fixing bolts, flat and spring washers and nuts. 3. Refit the brush gear and fixing screw. Solder field diode wires onto brush gear terminal. NOTE : It is important that this soldering operation be carried out as quickly as possible as excessive heat transference from the soldering iron to the brush box moulding could warp the moulding and result in restricting the free movement of the brushes. 4. Solder main and field diode wires onto their original terminal strips using a pair of long nose pliers to grip the wire and act as a hea t dissipater. (Use 'Ersin' 60/40 'M' Grade Solder or equivalent). NOTE : When bending the diode wires to link up with the termination strips, grip each diode wire at its base with a pair of long nose pliers
and bend the wire into position with the fingers. This will eliminate the possibility of the wire becoming detached from the silicon wafer inside the diode assembly. 5. ACR models only . Ensure 6m/mxl 3m/m PVC sleeving pieces on each of the two voltage regulator mounting posts are in position and are not damaged , renew if necessary using PVC sleeving cut to the abovementioned lengths (Fig. 25). Place the voltage regulator in position and fit pan head screws with the lock washer under the screw on the right hand side of the regulator as viewed from the front (Ref. figure 33). This washer is important as it ensures a good earth return for the regulator. Regulator Wiring Terminations Green wire from regulator to rear brush terminal. White or Red wire to front or IND brush terminal.
6 . Place wavy thrust washer in SRE bearing housing. 7. Compress brushes and insert a 3" x 3/32" diameter steel pin through the guide hole in the SRE head with approximately 1" of the pin protruding through the rear face of the end head. This will hold the brushes in a compressed position whilst the rotor is being fitted . 8. Fit stator and solder the three phase leads onto their original terminals. Fit D.E. head and rotor assembly . Fit and tighten the three through bolts evenly to a torque of 45 lbs/ins. ensuring the end brackets are sitting evenly on the stator lamination pack. Withdraw brush gear retaining pin . Refit fan, pulley, spring washer and shaft nut, tightening shaft nut to specification. 9 . Ensuring that the rotor turns freely by hand, install on the vehicle and observe operation.
White or Red Lead Green Lead Voltage Regulator Lock Washer under this screw
6mm x 13mm PVC Sleeving
FIG. 25- 14 ACR Alternator S.R.E. Bracket Internal View
13-21
13-22
PART 13-4
ALTERNATOR REGULATOR· BOSCH
Section
Page
I Description and Operation .... . ........ .. .. 13-22 ............ 13-24 2 In-Car Adjustment and Tests DESCRIPTION
VIBRATING CONTACTS
The BOSCH alternator regulator is a single element electro-mechanical voltage regulator only (Fig. 26). Because of the inherent current control of an alternator caused by the inductive reactance of the stator no current limiter is required and as the rectifier diodes prevent reverse current flow from the battery no cut-out is required either. The voltage regulator is a double contact vibrating unit incorporating a positive temperature co-efficient resistor. An electro-magnet attracting the armature blade against spring tension provides the voltage control. A wire wound choke is used in the field circuit to smooth out voltage surge and prolong point life. OPERATION
There are three phases of operation of the voltage regulator. 1. Lower points closed - no regulation Fig. 29.
FIG. 26- Bosch Regulator
~~1 I I I I r-111
,, REGULATOR
0
FIG. 27- Voltage Reg. Test (Bosch)
0
13-23
PART 13-4-ALTERNATOR REGULATOR
OF TERMINAL FIELD WINDING CIRCUIT
OF TERMINAL LAMP INDICATOR LIGHT CIRCUIT
DF TERMINAL FOR RADIO SUPPRESSOR
FIG. 28- Bosch Regulator When the alternator voltage is low the lower contacts will be closed by the armature spring allowing full system voltage to be applied to the field windings. Initial field excitation via the ignition switch and indicator light is applied to the field windings through the lower contacts as residual magnetism in the alternator is usually too small to start a voltage build up. 2. Lower points open - first stage of regulation Fig. 30. When the alternator voltage irn· pressed on the electro-magnet reaches a predetermined value the armature is attracted to the core of the electromagnet, the lower contacts are opened and a resistor is connected in series with the field winding. The reduced field strength causes the alternator voltage to fall. As a consequence the contacts cannot be held open by the reduced influence of the electromagnet and they close. This cycle is repeated 50-200 times per second and the voltage is maintained at a predetermined setting. 3. Upper contacts closed - field circuit grounded - second stage of regulation Fig. 31. As the alternator speed and battery voltage rise the voltage begins to overcome the resistance and as a result the alternator voltage will rise. The influence of the electro-magnet becomes so strong that the upper points will make contact. The stationary upper point is grounded and so the field circuit is short circuited. The drop in voltage impressed on the electro-magnet allows the armature spring to open the upper points and the resistor is again in circuit, this cycle of regulation on the upper points is also repeated many times per second.
ALTERNATOR
IGN. SWITCH
BATTERY
FIG. 29- Field Circuit- Lower Points Closed
ALTERNATOR
IGN. SWITCH
FIG. 30- Field Circuit- Points Open
BATTERY
RESISTOR
13-24
GROUP 13-CHARGING SYSTEM 9. Cycle the system by stopping and re-starting the engine.
ALTERNATOR
10. With the ammeter reading 10 amps the voltmeter reading should be within 13.5-14.4 volts. To check the regulating range proceed as follows :11. Increase the engine speed to 2700 - 2800 R.P.M. The voltage reading with an 8 - 10 amps load should not vary from the regulating voltage by more .than - 0.2 to +0.4 volts.
REGULATOR
IGN. SWITCH
Electrical adjustments 1. Switch off the engine. 2. Remove the wiring plug from the base of the regulator. 3. Remove the regulator from the vehicle. 4. Remove the sealing tape and remove the regulator cover. 5. Refit the regulator to the vehicle. 6. Replace the wiring plug to the base of the regulator. 7. Adjust the bi-metal spring bracket upwards to increase or downwards to decrease the voltage setting. Fig. 26. 8. Replace the regulator cover, start the engine and run it at 700 R.P.M. for 5 minutes to stabilize the temperature. 9. Cycle the system by stopping and restarting the engine. 10. With the engine running at 700 R.P.M. adjust the load (lights etc.) to 10 amps. The voltmeter should read 13.5- 14.4 volts . If the specified voltage cannot be obtained the regulator must be re-
BATTERY
FIG. 31 -Field Circuit- Upper Contacts Closed 3. Insert an ammeter between the alternator B+ terminal and the B+ terminal of the disconnected wiring cable. 4. Connect the positive lead of a voltmeter to the test connector on the alternator B+ terminal and the negative lead to ground . 5. Replace the battery earth cable. 6. Install a tachometer on the engine. 7. Start the engine, switch on lights and accessories as necessary to obtain a charge rate of 10 amps and adjust the engine speed to 700 R.P.M. 8. Run the engine at this load and speed for 15 minutes to normalise operating temperature.
IN CAR TESTS AND ADJUSTMENTS
Voltage regulator tests. Before attempting to assess the performance of the voltage regulator always carry out an alternator output test - see page 13-7 Accurate test equipment must be used. The voltage regulator tests must be carried out with a fully charged battery; with the regulator at normal operating temperature ; and with the cover in place. Regulating voltage test. Fig. 27 1. Remove the battery earth cable. 2. Remove the wiring plug from the B+ terminal of the alternator and fit the test connector. RE ST
ATTRACTED
POSITION
POSITION
BIMETAL SPRING
" L -~
ARMATURE TIP
~
B
BIMETAL SPRi riG BRACKET
~
•t
,.._A
~
--
~
..........,
--"" .........::~
\c
D
II
lD
~~
~p
LOWER CONTACT BRACKET UPPER CONTACT BRACKET . t---l
FIG. 32 - Bosch Regulator Gap Setting
~~ ~I II"' 1\
....--..,
PART 13-4-ALTERNATOR REGULATOR moved from the vehicle for further adjustment or repair. To reset the regulating range 11. Increase the engine speed to 2700- 2800 R.P.M., adjust the load to 8 - 10 amps, the voltage should be within -0.2 to +0.4 volts. 12. If the re~ulating range exceeds +0.4 increase/reduce the air gap between the armature and core. 13. If the regulating range exceeds the permissable decrease of 0.2 volts enlarge the air gap. When it has been found necessary to adjust the air gap to achieve the specified regulating range voltage must be checked to ensure that it remains within tolerance.
14. After the adjustments have been satisfactorily completed seal the cover with Polyester tape. A spot of sealer should be applied at the start of the tape underneath the overlap to prevent water ingress. Mechanical adjustments To carry out the mechanical adjustments the regulator must be removed from the vehicle. See Fig. 32. 1. Armature air gap: (A) With the armature in the rest position the gap between the arrnature and the core of the elctromagnet should be .032 - .050". This may be adjusted by bending the lower contact bracket. 2. Upper contact gap: (B)
13-25
The gap between the upper or high speed contacts should be .008 .016". Adjust by bending the upper contact bracket. Ensure that the contacts are in alignment with each other. 3. Armature air gap - upper points closed: (C) Close the upper points by applying light finger pressure to the armature, gap should be .012- .028". 4. Armature to bracket gap: (D) The gap between the armature and the bracket should be .008 - .028". Adjust by bending the bracket. Mter making any mechanical adjustments to the regulator the electrical settings must be checked and adjusted.
13-26
PART 13·5
LUCAS ALTERNATOR REGULATOR
Section
Page
I Description and Operation ........ . .. . ..... 13-26
LUCAS ALTERNATOR REGULATOR
Two models of alternator voltage regulator are used . The 9 ATR model voltage regulator is mounted on the fender apron and is matched to the 14 AC model alternator, Fig.34. The 13 ATR is integral with the 14 ACR model alternator and is mounted inside the slip ring and head. Fig. 33. The two regulators have identical circuits and the description and mode of operation described herein apply to both. Both regulators are non-adjustable and if tested and found defective must be replaced . DESCRIPTION
The regulator consists of a completely static compact assembly of transistors, diodes, resistors and capacitors soldered to a printed circuit
FIG. 33- 13 ATR Regulator
Page
Section
2 In-Car Tests
board. In effect, the operation is similar to that of the conventional electro-mechanical regulator in that the alternator field current is varied to maintain the output voltage within close limits, but switching is performed by transistors instead of vibrating contacts and a Zener diode provides the voltage reference in place of the usual electro-magnet and tension spring. The unit incorporates a radio interference suppression capacitor. Since current can only flow in one direction through the alternator output diodes, no cut-out relay device is required .. Neither is a current limiting device needed, due to the inherent self-regulating characteristic of alternators. The control unit and alternator field windings are isolated from the battery when the engine is stationary by means of the ignition switch.
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
.13-29
OPERATION
In effect, the operation is similar to that of the conventional electromechanical regulator in that the alternator field current is varied ·to maintain the stator output voltage within close limits, but switching is effected with transistors instead of vibrating contacts, and a Zener diod~provides the voltage reference in place of the usual voltage coil and tension spring. As the alternator is accelerated from rest, its output voltage is allowed to build up until it reaches a limiting value set by the Zener diode and a fixed resistance. At this point the field current is reduced by the action of a transistor amplifier. Any further small increase in voltage beyond the limiting value serves to switch out the field completely - again by transistor action. When the ignition is switched on the control unit is connected to the battery through the indicator light,
FIG. 34-9 ATR Regulator
9ATR REGULATOR SURGE QUENCH DIODE ZENER DIODE
~
• ~
-
w I
Y' )> r-t m
"'z
~
+~------------~ -=F
-,-
___I_ I
f FIG. 35- Lucas Charging Circuit AC
"' "' Q c
~
"'
-
w I
~
13-28
GROUP 13-CHARGING SYSTEM
this energises the base circuit of the power transistors T2 through resistor Rl. Refer in Lucas circuit diagram. These transistors then become conducting by virtue of the transistor action characteristic of the semi-conductor material employed in the transistor and will permit current to flow in the collector-emitter section of the transistor and thus acts as a closed switch to complete the field circuit. As the alternator rotor speed increases the rising voltage generated across the alternator field-feed diodes is applied to the potential divider as illustrated in the diagram and identified as R3 , R2 and R4. According to the position of the tapping point on R2, a proportion of this potential is applied to the Zener Diode (ZD). This latter device which opposes the flow of current through itself until a certain voltage (known as the breakdown voltage) is reached, beyond which the current increases very steeply for small increases in voltage. The Zener diode can thus be considered as a voltage conscious switch which closes when the voltage reaches its "breakdown" voltage (about 10 volts), and since this is a known proportion of the alternator output voltage as determined by the position of the tapping point, the breakdown point, therefore, reflects the value of the output voltage. When this point is reached, the Zener diode conducts and current flows in the base circuit of the driver transistor T.l. Again by transistor action, current will now flow in the collectoremitter portion ofTl, so that some of the current which previously passed through Rl and the base circuit of T2 is now diverted through Tl. Thus the base current of T2 is reduced and, as a result, so also is the alternator field excitation. Consequently, the alternator output voltage will tend to fall: and this in turn will tend to reduce the base current in T1 , allowing increased field current to flow in T2. By this means, the field current is continuously varied to keep the output voltage substantially constant at the value determined by the setting of R2. NEGATIVE FEEDBACK CIRCUIT
Basically, this is the principle of operation of the regulator, but there are certain desirable additions. If the field current were varied continuously as described , considerable power dis-
9ATR Control
FIG. 36- Alternator Vo·ltage Test -14 AC. sipation would occur in the power transistor, leading to problems of overheating. For this reason, it is desirable to operate the transistor either in the fully-on or fully~ff condition, and this is the purpose of the positive feed-back circuit comprising RS and C2. As the field current in transistor T2 starts to fall, the voltage of F rises and current flows through resistor RS and capacitor C2, thus adding to the Zener diode current in the base circuit of transistor Tl. This has the effect of increasing the current through T1 and decreasing the current through T2 still further. This effect is cumulative and the circuit quickly reaches the condition when T1 is fully-on and T2 fully-off. As capacitor C2 charges, the feed-back current falls and eventually reaches a value at which the combination of Zener diode current and feed-back current in the base circuit of Tl is no lbnger great enough to keep T1 fullyon. Current then begins to flow again in the base circuit of T2, so that the field current again begins' to flow through T2. The voltage at terminal F now commences to fall, reducing the feed-back current eventually to zero. As T2 becomes yet more conductive and the voltage at F falls further, current in the feedback circuit reverses in direction, in effect reducing still further the base current in Tl. This effect also is
cumulative and the circuit reverts to the condition where T1 is fully-off and T2 fully-on. This condition is only momentary, since C2 quickly charges to the opposite polarity when feed-back current is reduced the current again flows in the base of Tl. The circuit thus oscillates, switching the voltage across the alternator field winding rapidly on and off. This method of operation results in considerably low power dissipation. SURGE QUENCH DIODE
Because switching is achieved so rapidly, any sudden collapse of the field current would result in a very high induced voltage being applied to transistors T2. They are protected by means of the surge quench diode D connected across the field winding. This also serves to provide a measure of field current smoothing, since the current continues to flow in the diode after the excitation voltage is removed from the field . This current decays by only a small amount before the excitation is again applied. RADIOINTEREFERENCE SUPPRESSION
The elimination of radio interference caused by rapid switching within the regulator is achieved by connecting condenser Cl between the base and collector terminals of T1 to provide negative feed-back.
PART 13-5-ALTERNATOR REGULATOR ZENER DIODE LEAK CIRCUIT
At high temperatures, a small leakage current may flow through the Zener diode even though the latter is in the nominally non-conductive state. Resistor R6 provides a path for this leakage current which otherwise would flow through Tl base circuit and adversely affect the regulator action. IN CAR TESTS AND ADJUSTMENTS
Before attempting to assess the performance of the voltage regulator always carry out an alternator output test. See page 13-7. The voltage regulator tests must
be carried out with a fully charged battery and with the regulator at normal operating temperature. Before carrying out the tests ensure that all wiring and connections in the charging circuit (including battery terminals) are tight and in good condition. Voltage Regulator Test 9 ATR and 13 ATR.
1. Connect a voltmeter across the battery terminals. 2. Connect a 0.60 amp ammeter in series with the alternator main (+) lead. 3. Connect a carbon pile rheostat or switched lamp bank across the
13-29
battery terminals (Make sure controls are in the out or off position). 4. Connect a tachometer to the engine. 5. Start the engine and adjust speed to 1000 R.P.M. 6. Adjust charge rate to 11 amps and allow the engine to run at this rate for 10 minutes. 7. Increase engine speed to give 6000alternator R.P.M. (see chart) and adjust charge rate to 11 amps. 8. The voltmeter should now register 14.3 ± 0 .4 volts. Both the 9 ATR and 13 ATR regulators are non-adjustable units therefore if the test figures are not achieved the regulator must be replaced.
13-30
PART 13-6
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS- 6 Cylinder BOSCH ALTERNATOR MODEL UK1 14V40A22 Earth polarity Nominal voltage Nominal DC output Stator phases Stator winding connection Number of poles Resistance of rotor windings Resistance of stator windings Brush length (protrusion) new minimum Minimum diameter of slip rings Tightening torques: Alternator through bolts Pulley retaining nut Rectifier pack fixing screws Brush box fixing screws
NEGATIVE 14 volts 40 amps 3 Star 12 4.2 ± .2 ohms 0.21 ± 1 ohm .35" .15" 1.24" 33- 47 in/lbs 25 - 32 ft/lbs 20/25 in/lbs 20- 25 in/lbs
BOSCH REGULATOR MODEL U- AD1/14V TYPE Electro-mechanical vibrator Regulating voltage (warm) Voltage range Armature to core air gap (at rest) Armature to core air gap (upper points closed) Point opening Armature to bracket air gap
13.5 - 14.4 volts at 1700 RPM (alternator) and 10 amps output reading at 7000 RPM (alternator) and 10 amps output must be within - 0.2 to +0.4 volts of the regulating voltage. .032 - .050"
.Of2 - .028" .008 - .016" .008 - .028"
13-31
PART 13-6- SPECIFICATIONS
Engine
R.P.O.
Alternator R.P.M.
Engine R.P.M.
8 cyl. 8 cyl. 8 cyl. 8 cyl 8 cyl. G.T.
Standard Taxi and Police without Power Steering With power steering With air conditioning
6000 6000 6000 6000 6000
2500 2500 1800 1800 1800
6 cyl. 6 cyl.
With air conditioning TaW"i and Police
6000 6000
2500 2500
LUCAS ALTERNATOR- V8 only MODEL 14ACR 4D Earth polarity Nominal voltage Nominal output Stator phases Stator winding connection Number of poles Resistance of rotor winding Resistance of stator winding Brush length
new minirnwn
Negative 12 volts 4D- 38 amps 3 Star 12 3.3 ohms ±5%at20C 0.23 ohms ± 5% ger phase at 20 C .625" .250"
6D
6D - 55 amps
3.0 ohms ± 5% at 20° C 0.15 ohms ± 5% ger phase at 20 C
Lucas Regulator Model 13ATR Solid state transistorized - non adjustable Volt.age setting 14.3 ± 0.4 volts LUCAS ALTERNATOR-6 Cylinder Air Conditioning 6D MODEL 14AC Earth polarity Nominal voltage Nominal output Stator phases Stator winding connection Number of poles Resistance of rotor winding Resistance of stator windings Brush length new minimum
Negative 12 volts 55 amps 3 Star 12 3.0 ohms± 5% at 20° C 0.15 ohms per phase at 20° C ± 5% .625" .250"
LUCAS REGULATOR MODEL 9ATR Solid state transistorized- non adjustable Voltage setting 14.3 ± 0.4 volts TIGHTENING TORQUES Alternator through bolts Pulley retaining nut Rectifier pack fixing nuts Voltage regulator retaining screws Brush box assy. fixing screw Brush box moulding screws
35 - 45 lb/in. End heads must sit evenly on stator. 25-30 lb/ft 20 - 25 lb/ins 15 lb/ins 20 lb/ins 7 lb/ ins
REFERENCE TO SERVICE INFORMATION AND NOTES Date
Letter No.
Page
Brief Detail
-
FALCON FAIRLANE w~::~~~P
STARTING SYSTEM
GROUP 14
PAGE PART 14-1-
Ford Starting System
14-2
PART 14-2-
Ford Starting System Repair
14-7
PART 14-3-
Bosch Starting System
14-10
PART 14-4-
lucas Starting System
14-13
PART 14-5-
Specifications
14-17
14-2
PART
14-1
FORD STARTING SYSTEM
Section
Page
1 Description and Operation 2 Diagnosis and Testing ....
D
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
Three types of starter motor are used on XA/ZF Falcon/Fairlane vehicles. 1. Ford - positive pre-engaged pinion operated by a moving pole shoe and remote relay. 2. Bosch - positive pre-engaged pinion operated by an integral solenoid. 3. Lucas - positive pre-engaged pinion operated by an integral solenoid. The function of the starting system is to crank the engine at high enough speed to permit it to start. The system includes the starter motor and drive, the battery, a remote control starter switch (part of the igni-
D
14-2 .... 14-2
tion switch). the neutral-start switch1 the starter relay or solenoid ana heavy circuit wiring. The starter mounting is shown in Fig. I . Turning of the ignition key to the START position actuates the starter relay, through the starter control circuit. The starter relay then connects the battery to the starter. Cars equipped with an automatic transmission have a neutral-start switch, in the starter control circuit, which prevents operation of the starter if the selector lever is not in the N (neutral) or P (park) position. The starter utilizes an integral positive-engagement drive
FIG. 1 -Starter Mounting -Typical
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
The following diagnosis and testing procedures may be applied to all three starter motors. Where applicable read solenoid for relay. A schematic diagram of the starting circuit is shown in Fig. 3 The majority of starting problems usually fall into one of the following situations: the starter will not crank the engine; the engine will crank at normal speed but will not start; and the starter cranks the engine very slowly. If the engine will crank but will not start, the trouble is usually in the engine, fuel system or ignition system rather than in the starting system. Following are road map type
charts which may be followed to determine the cause of the difficulty and the corrective action.
ROAD SERVICE On road service calls, connect a booster battery to the system for cases of a starter that will not crank the engine or a starter that cranks the engine very slowly. If the starter turns the engine over, but the engine still will not start, even with the booster battery attached, refer to the following charts. Be certain that corred battery polarity is observed when using a booster battery; posidve to posidve, and negadve to negadve
connecdon of the au:dliary cables.
STARTER WILL NOT CRANK THE ENGINE Refer to Fig. 2 for this symptom. NOTE I-NEUTRAL START SWITCH TEST On vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission, apply the brakes and attempt to start the engine while moving the selector lever through all ranges. This may determine if the problem is caused by a maladjusted or defective neutralstart switch. Refer to Group 7 Part 3 for the adjustment of this switch.
PART 14-1- FORD STARTING SYSTEM
14-3
STARTER WILL NOT CRANK ENGINE-ROW lltAP (SEE NOTE NO. 1)
*I
CHECK THE BATTERY AND STARTER CABLES FOR GOOD ELECTRICAL CONTACT . LOOK FOR BROKEN OR CORRODED CONNECTIONS . IN PARTICULAR ASSURE GOOD GROUND CONNECTIONS . CLEAN AND TIGHTEN THE CABLE CONNECTIONS AS NECESSARY . CHECK THE BATTERY SPECIFIC GRAVITY .
BATTERY SPECIFIC GRAVITY OK
BATTERY SPECIFIC GRAVITY LOW
PERFORM THE BATTERY TESTS. CHARGE OR REPLACE THE *BATTERY AS NECESSARY . CHECK THE BATTERY AND STARTER CABLES AND STARTER RELAY FOR EXCE"SSIVE RESISTANCE .
CHECK THE STARTER RELAY·OPERATE THE STARTER (IGNITION) SWITCH .
RELAY DOES NOT CLICK
BY-PASS THE RELAY WITH A HEAVY JUMPER CABLE .SEE NOTE NO . 2.
*
I ENGINE CRANKS
II
*
STARTER SPINS,BUT WILL NOT CRANK ENGINE
BY-PASS THE IGNITION SWITCH, NEUTRAL STARTS WI TCH AND WIRING . SEE NOTE NO.3 .
ENGINE WILL NOT CRANK
J
~
* REPLACE RELAY
*
CHECK THE WIRING TO THE IGNITION SWITCH, NEUTRAL START SWITCH AND WIRING TO STARTER RELAY·. SEE NOTE NO. 4.
BY·PASS RELAY WITH A HEAVY JUMPER CABLE. SEE NOTE NO. 2.
I
STARTER ENGAGEMENT WEAK OR NO ENGAGEMENT .
STARTER ENGAGEMENT FIRM. ENGINE LOCKED UP .
I
I
I
ENGINE WILL NOT CRANK
*
I
* REMOVE AND TEST THE STARTER. REPAIR AS REQUIRED.
* REMOVE THE STARTING MOTOR AND DRIVE . CHECK AND CLEAN THE STARTER DRIVE AS REQUIRED. CHECK FOR DAMAGED FLYWHEEL RING GEAR TEETH . WHEN INSTALLING THE STARTER, PROPERLY ALIGN IT TO THE FLYWHEEL HOUSING .
ENGINE WILL NOT CRANK
*REPLACE RELAY
I
* REFER TO GROUP 8
STARTER ENGAGEMENT WEAK OR NO ENGAGEMENT.
STARTER ENGAGEMENT FIRM, ENGINE LOCKED UP
* REFER TO GROUP 8
J 1316-A
FIG. 2-Starter Will Not Crank Engine-Road Map
GROUP 14- STARTING SYSTEM
14-4
1---1~
..!.
BATTERY. -
_ __.TO GENERATOR REGULATOR STARTER RELAY
TO IGNITION COIL STARTER
Red·Bive Stripe ---AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ONLY STARTER NEUTRAL SWITCH CLOSED WITH SELECTOR IN N OR P POSITION
Red· Bive Stripe ---STARTER SWITCH (ON IGNITION SWITCH)
( TO BATTERY TERMINAL OF GENERATOR REGULA TOR
terminal of the relay to the starter (ignition) switch side of the neutralstart switch (Fig. 4, connection No. 4). If the engine does not crank, the neutral-start switch is out of adjustment or defective. If the engine cranks, check for voltage at the battery terminal of the starter (ignition) switch wiring harness connector wi!h a test light or a voltmeter. If voltage is not available, the wiring between the battery terminal of the starter relay and the battery terminal of the starter (ignition) switch is at fault. If voltage is available, substitute an ignition switch from stock. If the engine cranks, replace the ignition switch. If the engine still will not crank, the trouble is in the wiring or connections between the ignition switch and the starter-neutral switch. STARTER CRANKS ENGINE SLOWLY
J 1 083 -C
FIG. 3-Starting Circuit
Refer to Fig. 5 for this symptom.
1---1~.l
BATTERY. -
NOTE2 Connect a heavy jumper cable from the battery terminal of the relay to the starter terminal of the relay (Fig. 4, connection No. 1). NOTE 3-STARTER RELAY TEST Connect a jumper from the battery terminal of the relay to the starter (ignition) switch terminal of the relay (Fig. 4, connection No. 2). If the engine does not crank, the starter relay probably is at fault. NOTE 4-STARTER CONTROL CIRCUIT TEST On vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission, if the engine cranks, connect a jumper from the battery terminal of the relay to the relay side of the neutral start switch. (Fig. 4, connection No. 3). If the engine does not crank, the wiring between the neutral-start switch and the relay is at fault. If the engine cranks, connect a jumper from the battery
: ~, •
__,
TO IGNITION COIL
3
1•
I
STARTER LOAD TEST Connect the test equipment as shown in Fig. 6 Be sure that no current is flowing through the ammeter and heavy-duty carbon pile rheostat portion of the circuit (rheostat at maximum counterclockwise position). Crank the engine with the ignition OFF, and determine the exact reading on the voltmeter. This test is accomplished by disconnecting and grounding the high tension lead from the spark coil, and by connecting a jumper from the battery terminal of the starter relay to the ignition switch terminal of the relay. Stop cranking the engine, and reduce the resistance of the carbon pile until the voltmeter indicates the same reading as that obtained while the starter cranked the engine. The ammeter will indicate the starter current draw under load.
The starter no-load test will uncover such faults as open or shorted windings, rubbing armature, and bent armature shaft. The starter can be tested, at no-load, on the test bench only.
.••• ....,_ •
tom.
STARTER NO-LOAD TEST
I
•
NORMAL SPEED BUT WILL NOT START Refer to Group 8 for this symp-
~--~S~TA~R~T~ER~--~
--------AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION STARTER NEUTRAL SWITCH Red. Blue Stripe
------STARTER SWITCH (ON IGNITION SWITCH) ( TO BATTERY
Make the test connections as shown in Fig. 6. The starter will run at no-load. Be sure that no current is flowing through the ammeter (rheostat at maximum counterclockwise position). Determine the exact reading on the voltmeter. Disconnect the starter from the battery, and reduce the resistance of the rheostat until the voltmeter indicates the same reading as that obtained while the starter was running. The ammeter will indicate the starter no-load current draw.
J 1084. F
FIG. 4-Starting Control Circuit Tests ENGINE WILL CRANK AT
ARMATURE OPEN CIRCUIT TEST---oN TEST BENCH
An open circuit armature may
PART 14-1- FORD STARTING SYSTEM
14-5
STARTER CRANKS ENGI HE SLOWL Y-ROAO MAP
*
CHECK THE BATTERY AND HARTER CABLES FOR GOOD ELECTRICAL CONTACT . LOOK FOR CORRODED OR LOOSE CONNECTIONS . IN PARTICULAR , ASSURE GOOD GROUND CONNECTIONS . CLEAN AND TIGHTEN THE CABLES AS NECESSARY . CHECK BATTERY SPECIFIC GRAVITY.
BATTERY SPECIFIC GRAVITY LOW
BATTERY SPECIFIC GRAVITY OK
* *
CHECK THE STARTER CRANKING VOLTAGE AND CURRENT DRAW.
CURRENT DRAW NORMAL OR HIGH
CURRENT DRAW LOW
*
*
REMOVE THE ST AR T ER, INSPECT TEST AND REPAIR IT AS NECESSARY .
REMOVE THE STARTER AND CHE CK THE CURRENT DRAW AT NO LOAD.
CURRENT DRAW ABOVE OR BELOW SPECIFICATIONS
*
IN SPECT , TEST AND R E PAl fl THE STARTER AS NECE SSAilY .
FIG. 5
-
STARTER SWITCH (ON IGNITION SWITCH! TO IGNITION COIL TO BATTERY TERMINAL OF GENERATOR REGULA TOR
FIG. 6-Starter Load Test
PERFORM BATTERY TESTS . CHARGE OR REPLACE THE BATTERY AS NECESSARY . CHECK THE BATTERY AND STARTER RELAY FOR EXCESSIVE RESISTANCE .
STARTER
CURRENT DRAW IS NORMAL
*
REFER TO GROUP 8
J 1317-A
14-6
GROUP 14- STARTING SYSTEM
STARTER TERMINAL
VOLTMETER --.....:$. POSITIVE LEAD
FIG. 7 -Starter No-Load Test on Test Bench
J1094 - B
FIG. 9-Field Grounded Circuit Test
ARMATURE AND FIELD GROUNDED CIRCUIT TESTON TEST BENCH
FIG. 8-Armature Grounded Circuit Test
sometimes be detected by examining the commutator for evidence of burning. The spot burned on the commutator is caused by an arc formed every time the commutator segment, connected to the open circuit winding, passes under a brush.
This test will determine if the winding insulation has failed, permiting a conductor to touch the frame or armature core. To determine if the armature windings are grounded, make the connections as shown in Fig. 8. If the voltmeter indicates any voltage, the windings are grounded. Grounded field windings can be detected by making the connections as shown in Fig. 9. If the voltmeter indicates any voltage, the field windings are grounded.
This is accomplished by disconnecting and grounding the high tension lead from the spark coil and by connecting a jumper from the battery terminal of the starter relay to the ignition switch terminal(s), of the relay. The voltage drop in the circuit will be indicated by the voltmeter (o to 2 volt range). Maximum allowable voltage drop should be: 1. With the voltmeter negative lead connected to the starter terminal and the positive lead connecte~ to the battery positive terminal (Fig.lO, connection ) . . . . 0.1 volt.
@.•.......:"""""""'-
•
I
I
-
I
\••
••••
STARTER CRANKING CIRCUIT TEST
Excessive resistance in the starter circuit can be determined from the results of this test. Make the test connections as shown in Fig. lO.Crank the engine with the ignition OFF.
J1259-1
FIG. 10 -Starter Cranking Circuit Test
14-7
PART 14-2
FORD STARTING SYSTEM
Section
Page
1 Removal and Installation 2 Common Adjustments and Repairs
The Ford Starter Motor is a series parallel wound four pole four brush machine using a moving pole shoe actuated positive pre-engaged pinion. The mam battery supply is not connected until the pinion is in engagement unless tooth abutment is encountered. The starter motor is protected by an overrunning clutch which disengages the drive between the armature and ring gear as soon as the
D
Page
3 Cleaning and Inspection 4 Major Repair Operations
engine starts and so prevents over revving of the armature. A remote relay connects the starter to the battery when the starter (ignition) switch is operate1. When the starter is not in use, one of the field coils is connected directly to ground through a set of contacts. When the starter is first connected to the battery a large current flows through the grounded field coil, actuating a movable pole shoe. The pole
14-8 14-8
shoe is attached to the starter drive plunger lever and thus the drive is forced into engagement with the flywheel. When the movable pole shoe is fully seated, it opens the field coil grounding contacts and the starter is then in normal operation. A holding coil is used to maintain the movable pole shoe in the fully seated position, during the time that the starter is turning the engine.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
1. Raise the car on a hoist. 1.. Disconnect the starter cable at
the starter terminal. 3. Remove the starter mounting
EJ
14-7 14-7
Section
bolts. Remove the starter assembly: 4. Position the starter assembly to the flywheel housing, and start the mounting bolts.
5. Snug all bolts, then torque them to specification. 6. Connect the starter cable.
COMMON ADJUST~ENTS AND REPAIRS
STARTER DRIVE REPLACEMENT CIRCUIT TEST 1. Loosen and remove the brush cover band and the starter drive plunger lever cover. 2. Loosen the through bolts enough to allow removal of the rear end housing and the starter drive plunger lever return spring. 3. Remove the pivot pin retaining the starter drive plunger lever and remove the lever. 4. Remove the drive gear stop ring retainer and stop ring from the end of the armature shaft and remove the drive gear assembly. 5. Apply a thin coating of Lubriplate on the armature shaft splines. Install the drive gear assembly on the armature shaft and install a new stop ring. 6. Position the starter gear plunger lever on the starter frame and install the pivot pin. Be sure that the plunger lever properly engages the starter drive assembly. 7. Install a new stop-ring retainer. Position the starter drive plunger lever return spring and rear end housing to the starter frame, and then tighten
the through bolts to specifications (55-75 inch pounds). 8. Position the starter drive plunger lever cover and the brush cover band, with its gasket, on the starter. Tighten the brush cover band retaining screw.
BRUSH REPLACEMENT Replace the starter brushes when they are worn to 1/.1 inch. Always install a complete set of new brushes. 1. Loosen and remove the brush cover band, gasket, and starter drive plunger lever cover. Remove the brushes from their holders. 2. Remove the two through bolts from the starter frame. 3. Remove the rear end housing, and the plunger lever return spring. 4. Remove the starter drive plunger lever pivot pin and lever, and remove the annature. 5. · Remove the front end plate. 6. Remove the ground brush retaining screws from the frame and remove the brushes (cut the ground brush nearest the starter terminal from the brush terminal block, as close to the brush lead terminal as
possible). 7. Cut (or unsolder) the insulated brush leads from the field coils, as close to the field connection point as possible. 8. Clean and inspect the starter motor. 9. Replace the front end plate if the insulator between the field brush holder and the end plate is cracked or broken. 10. Position the new insulated field brushes lead on the field coil tenninal. Install the clip provided with the brushes to hold the brush lead to the terminal. Solder the lead, clip and tenninal together, using resin core solder (Fig. 4). Use a 300 watt iron. 11. Install the ground brush leads to the frame with the retaining screws. 12. Clean the commutator with #00 or #000 sandpaper. 13. Position the front end plate to the starter frame, with the end plate boss in the frame slot. 14. Position the fiber washer on the commutator end of the armature shaft and install the armature in the
14-8
GROUP 14- STARTING SYSTEM
starter frame. 15. Install the starter drive gear plunger lever to the frame and starter drive assembly, and install the pivot pin. 16. Position the return spring on the plunger lever, and the rear end housing to the starter frame. Install the through bolts and tighten to specified torque (55-75 inch pounds). Be sure that the stop ring retainer is seated properly in the rear end housing. 17. Install the commutator brushes in the brush holders. Center the brush springs on the brushes. 18. Position the plunger lever cover and the brush cover band, with its gasket, on the starter. Tighten the band retaining screw. 19. Connect the starter to a battery to check its operation.
EJ
ARMATURE REPLACEMENT 1. Loosen the brush cover band retaining screw and remove the brush cover band, gasket, and the starter drive plunger lever cover. Remove the brushes hom their holders. 2. Remove the through bolts, the rear end housing, and the drive plunger lever return spring. 3. Remove the pivot pin retaining the starter gear plunger lever, and remove the lever. 4. Remove the armature. If the starter drive gear assembly is being reused, remove the stop ring. retainer and the stop ring from the end of the armature shaft, and remove the assembly. S. Place the drive gear assembly on the new armature with a new stop ring. 6. Install the fiber thrust washer
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
1. Use a brush or air to ciean the field coils, armature, commutator, armature shaft, front end plate, and rear end housing. Wash all other parts in solvent and dry the parts.
amount of grease to the needles. If the commutator is rough, or more than 0.005 inch out-of-round, turn it down.
2. Inspect the armature windings for broken or burned insulation and unsoldered connections.
4. Check the commutator for runout (Fig. 1). Inspect the armature shaft and the two bearings for scoring and excessive wear. On a starter with needle bearings apply a small
S. Check the brush holders for broken springs and the insulated brush holders for shorts to ground. Tighten any rivets that may be loose. Replace the brushes if worn to 'A inch in length. 6. Check the brush spring tension. Replace the springs if the tension is not within specified limits (40 ounces minimum).
3. Check the armature for open circuits and grounds.
rJ
on the commutator end of the armature shaft and install the armature. 7. Position the drive gear plunger lever to the frame and drive gear assembly and install the pivot pin. 8. Position the drive plunger lever return spring, the rear end housing, and the front end plate to the starter frame, and then install and tighten the through bolts to specification. Be sure that the stop ring retainer is seated properly in the drive gear housing. If the starter has needle bearings apply a small amount of grease to the needles before installing the starter ends. 9. Place the brushes in their holders, and center the brush springs on the brushes. 10. Position the plunger lever cover and the brush cover band, with its gasket, and then tighten the retaining screw. 11. Connect the starter to a battery to check its operation.
FIG. Check
1-Commutator Runout
7. Inspect the field coils for burned or broken insulation and continuity. Check the field brush connections and lead insulation.
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS
Use the following procedure when it becomes necessary to completely overhaul the starter. Fig. 2 iilustrates a partially disassembled starter.
DISASSEMBLY 1. Loosen the brush cover band retaining screw and remove the brush cover band and the starter drive plunger lever cover. Observe the lead positions for assembly and then re-
move the commutator brushes from the brush holders. 2. Remove the through bolts, starter rear end housing, and the starter drive plunger lever rc;tum spring. 3. Remove the pivot pin retaining the starter gear plunger lever and remove the lever and the armature. 4. Remove the stop ring retainer. Remove and discard the stop ring re-
taining the starter drive gear to the end of the armature shaft, and remove the starter drive gear assembly. S. Remove the front end plate. 6. Remove the two screws retaining the ground brushes to the frame. 7. On the field coil that operates the starter drive gear actuating lever, bend the tab up on the field retainer and remove the coil retainer. 8. Remove the three coil retaining
PART 14-4- FORD STARTING SYSTEM REPAIR
START ER FRAME
14-9
RE AR END HOUSING 11130
FIELD COILS 11082
START ER DRI VE 11 350
J
BRU SH COVER BAND 11126 ARMATURE 11005
-
n
(
""""'~-,) STARTE R DRIV E...... ~ ~ PLUNGER LEV ER 11067
~o.
0
/ "'ITt');/
PLUNGER RET URN
'
SPRING 111 03
ST OP RING STOP RIN G
COVER 11060
()
11222
RETAINER 11223
J 1089-D
FIG. 2-Starter Disassembled Jl 092-C
screws, using tool 10044-A and an arbor press (Fig. 3). The arbor press prevents the wrench from slipping out of the screw. Unsolder the field coil leads from the terminal screw, and remove the pole ~hoes and coils from the frame (use a 300-watt iron). USE Arbor Press TO HOLD Tool IN SCREW SOCKET
BE SURE TO SEAT DRIVE HEAD IN SCREW SOCKET
J1 059- C
FIG. 3-Pole Shoe Saew Removal 9. Cut (or unsolder) the insulated brush leads from the field coils, as close to the field connection point as possible. 10. Remove the starter terminal nut, washer, insulator and terminal from the starter frame. Remove any excess solder from the terminal slot. PARTS REPAIR OR REPLACEMENT
Nicks and scratches may be removed from the commutator by
turning it down. A brush kit and a contact kit are available. All other assemblies are to be replaced rather than repaired. If the starter has needle bearings, apply a small amount of grease to the needles before assembly. ASSEMBLY
1. Install the starter terminal, inwashers, and retaining nut in the frame (Fig. 4). Be sure to position the slot in the screw perpendicular to the frame end surface. l. Position the coils and pole pieces, with the coil leads in the terminal screw slot, and then install the retaining screws (Fig. 3). As the pole shoe screws are tightened, strike the frame several sharp blows with a softfaced hammer to seat and align the pole shoes, then stake the screws. 3. Install the solenoid coil and retainer and bend the tabs to retain the coils to the frame. 4. Solder the field coils and solenoid wire to the starter terminal using rosin core solder. Use a 300-watt iron. 5. Check for continuity and grounds in the assembled coils. 6. Position the new insulated field brushes lead on the field coil terminal. Install the clip provided with the brushes to hold the brush lead to the terminal. Solder the lead, clip, and termit>~l together, using rosin core solder (Fig. 4). Use a 300-watt iron. 7. Position the solenoid coil ground terminal over the nearest ground screw hole. 8. Position the ground brushes to ~ulator,
FIG. 4-Field Coil Assembly the starter frame and install the retaining screws (Fig. 4). 9. Position the starter brush end plate to the frame, with the end plate boss in the frame slot. 10. Apply a thin coating of Lubriplate on the armature shaft splines. Install the starter motor drive gear assembly to the armature shaft and install a new retaining stop ring. Install a new stop ring retain-
er. 11. Position the fiber thrust washer on the commutator end of the armature shaft and position the armature in the starter frame. ll. Position the starter drive gear plunger lever to the frame and starter drive assembly, and install the pivot pin. 13. Position the starter drive plunger lever return spring and the rear end housing to the frame and install and tighten the through bolts to specification (SS -15 inch pounds). Do not pinch the brush leads between the brush plate and the frame. Be sure that the stop ring retainer is seated properly in the drive housing. 14. Install the brushes in the brush holders. Be sure to center the brush springs on the brushes. 15. Position the drive gear plunger lever cover on the starter and install the brush cover band with a gasket. Tighten the band retaining screw. 16. Check the starter no-load amperage draw.
14-10
PART 14-3
BOSCH STARTING SYSTEM 250, 302, 351 2V Page
Section 1 Description and Operation 2 Removal and Installation 3 Major Repair Operations ...... ,..... ......
II
14-10 14-11 14-11
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
The Bosch Starter Motor is a series parallel wound, four pole four brush machine with solenoid actuated positive pre-engaged pinion. The main battery supply is not connected until the pinion is in engagement unless tooth abutment is experienced. The drive connection between starter armature and ring gear is automatically broken by the overrunning clutch coupling, which disengages the drive as soon as the engine speed exceeds that of the starter. Closing the mlenoid switching circuit energises the pull-in and hold-in solenoid windings. The soft iron plun-
ger is drawn in moving the engaging lever which in turn moves the drive assembly towards the ring gear. The helical splines on the armature shaft rotate the pinion slowly to assist in engagement. Should a tooth of the advancing pinion abut a tooth of the ring gear, the engaging lever will compress the helical spring at the pinion until the switch contacts close. The pinion is then turned and engages with the ring gear under the helical spring pressure. Before the pinion is completely in mesh the contacts in the solenoid switch are closed by the action of the
FIG 1. BOSCH STARTER MOTOR
soft iron plunger. The starter then rotates and cranks the engine. When the starter rotates, the pull-in winding is de-energised by the isolation of its ground connection, providing more power for cranking. As the starting speed of the engine exceeds that of the starter, the pinion rotates freely and engine acceleration does not affect the starter. The drive is pulled back by the tensional helical spring, but, the pinion remains partly engaged as long as the starter switch is operated. Once the starter switch is released, the plunger return spring moves the pinion to its rest position and the switch contacts open.
PART 10-4 BOSCH STARTING SYSTEM
EJ
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
I. Disconnect the starter cable at the starter terminal, remove the flywheel housing to starter retaining screws. Remove the starter assembly"
EJ
14-11
2. Position the starter assembly to the flywheel housing, and start the starter retaining screws. On a car with an automatic transmission, the transmission dipstick
tube bracket is mounted under the starter side mounting bolt. Snug all bolts, then tighten to specifications, tightening the middle bolt first . 3. Reconnect starter cable from battery and wiring to switch.
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS
DISASSEMBLY 1. Disconnect the solenoid switch to starter motor lead from the solenoid switch terminal (9). 2. Remove the two solenoid switch attaching screws. 3. Remove solenoid (10) by lifting and unhooking the plunger yoke from engaging lever (11). 4. Remove the two bearing cap screws ( 1), pull off bearing cap (2), and remove circlip (3) . 5. Remove through bolts (4) . 6. Remove commutator end cover (5).
7. Remove four brushes (6) and brush holder (7) plate. 8. Withdraw armature (15) with drive end housing ( 17) engaging lever (11). 9. Remove engaging lever fulcrum bolt (14) to release engaging lever and armature from drive end housing. 10. Press stop ring (18) on armature shaft towards drive assembly. 11. Remove spring ring ( 19). 12. Remove drive assembly ( 16).
16
FIG. 2
8
15
12
6
7
3
SECTIONIZED VIEW BOSCH STARTER
TESTING STARTER COMPONENTS 1.
Cleaning and ln:'pection Clean and inspect all parts. Check all bushings, bearing surfaces, pinion, engaging mechanism and electrical contacts for wear and replace worn parts. Check electrical joints and connections and repair where necessary. Field Coils Test field coils for open circuits with an incandescent low-voltage test lamp in series. Test lamp must light if circuit through field coils is complete. Disconnect all ground connections and connect test latnp from field winding terminal to ground. Test lamp will not light if field coil insulation is good. Defective field coils should be removed with an approved pole shoe screw driver only. 2.
Armature Test armature winding for short circuits in a growler and test insulation to ground with test lamp as under 2. The commutator should not be erroded or out-of-round. If it is necessary to re-dress the commutator, ensur
Carbon Brushes Make sure brush~s slide smoothly in their holders, brush connections are good and brushes are clean and not chipped. Brushes worn to less than ~" long should be replaced, at
which time the commutator must be machined. Always replace the complete brush set. Check brush spring tension according to the prescribed figures with spring balance. Replace springs that do not conform to specifications. 5.
Bushings Replace worn bushings by pressing the old bushing out with a correct fitting mandrel and press the new bushing into place in like manner. New sintered .bushings should be soaked in oil for one hour before installation.
4.
Solenoid Switch Remove switch cover fastening screws. Unsolder external joints where the winding ends are connected to the terminals and remove cover. G.
14-12 Inspect contact bolts and contact plate for wear and replace worn contacts. The short contact bolt is retained in place, after the terminal nut is removed, by an external connecting strap from the solenoid winding terminaL This connecting strap can be removed by prising the strap away from the switch cover with a screw driver. A replacement bolt can be lightly pressed into the connecting strap and after two or more threads have entered, the terminal nut can be used to draw the bolt into place. The moving contact is secured by a contracted washer. This washer can be removed with a pair of side-cutters. After fitting a new moving contact, a circlip and cup washer must be used to secure the contact; crimp cup washer over circlip. The operation of the detached switch can be checked by connecting a battery supply through a variable resistance to both pull-in and holdin windings and increasing the voltage gradually until at 6.0 volts or less the plunger moves into its operational position. The plunger should return to the rest position when the voltage is reduced to, from 0.05-0.4 volts. When an ignition coil resistor short circuiting terminal No. 16 or C is incorporated in the switch cover, the terminal must be energised when the switch is in the closed position. A~SEMBLY
L Replace drive assembly (16). 2. Fit the stop ring (18) on the armature shaft to allow the spring ring ( 19) to fit in its groove in the armature shaft. 3. Slide the stop ring (18) over the spring ring ( 19) to lock the spring ring in position. 4. Assemble the armature (15) and engaging lever (11) in the drive end housing (17) and replace the engaging lever fulcrum bolt. 5. Insert the armature and drive end housing assembly in to the carcass. 6. 'Replace the brush holder plate (7) 'ind the brushes (6). 7. Assemble the commutator end cover and through bolts. 8. Replace the circlip (3) the bearing cap (2) and the bearing cap screen (2). 9. Refit the solenoid and attaching screws. 10. Reconnect the solenoid switch to starter motor lead, to the solenoid
GROUP 14- STARTING SYSTEM 1-------11•
terminal (9). IMPORTANT: Ensure that a water tight seal is made at rubber packing (13). MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS Armature End Play The armature end play is the lengthwise travel (longitudinal) of the armature in its bearings. Too little or too much end play results in increased wear of the bearings. The end play is adjusted by placing or removing shims at the commutator end between the end cover and circlip on the armature. Adjust to specification. Armature Braking Torque The total armature braking torque is composed of brush, bearing and the auxiliary armature brake torque. Too high a braking torque results in excessive mechanical wear and armature brake heating. Too low a braking torque results in extended starter stopping time. Also, the starter overrunning acceleration will be too high. Armature torque can be measured with a torque balance. Clutch Overrunning Torque The overrunning torque of the clutch assembly is the force necessary to turn the pinion in a rotary direction while the armature shaft is held s€ationary. Too low an overrunning torque may prevent starter power application. If the overrunning torque is too high, the armature can reach too high e speed and may be damaged. For measuring overrunning torque, move the pinion forward at least 0.4", with armature stationary measure torque in direction of rotation. Clutch assemblies not conforming to the specifications must be replaced.
ELECTRICAL TESTS OF ASSEMBLED STARTER MOTOR The electrical test values depend upon the condition of the battery (capacity and charge). The testing period also plays an important part (heating of the starter and battery discharge) . Long cables on the test bench also influence starter performance. The test period should therefore be as short as possible. The batteries must be in good condition and well charged or the electrical values of a faulty starter will differ considerably from the specified test data.
Circuit Diagram The internal circuitry of the starter and the electrical connections are given in the diagram above. 1.
Short-circuit Test Clamp starter in test bench and connect in accordance with the wiring diagram. The ring gear of the test bench and the starter pinion must have the same pitch; adjust backlash and out of mesh clearance. Operate starter and apply · test bench brake until pinion is almost to a standstill. At this moment read current and voltage which must conform to specifications. 2.
3.
Load Test Clamp starter and connect as in short circuit test. Operate starter and apply brake until the specified current draw is recorded, read voltage and RPM. Free Running Test Re-position starter on test bench so that pinion and ring gear cannot engage. Connect as for previous tests. Operate starter, read amperage, voltage and RPM.
4.
14-13
PART 14-4
LUCAS STARTING SYSTEM
Section
Page
1 Removal and Installation
14-13
3
14-14
Major Repair Operations ......
DESCRIPTION
The Lucas starting motor model M40AK is a pre-engaged, four pole, four brush, four inch diameter machine with a series parallel connected field, an armature with a face type commutator and a solenoid operated roller clutch drive. The face type commutator on the end face of the armature works in conjunction with a fully insulated brush bear assembly comprising two pairs of brushes and coil type springs assembled into a brush box moulding attached to the inside of the end cover by two Phillips head screws which also act as earth returns for the starter earth brushes. OPERATION
Closing the solenoid switching circuit energises the pull in and hold in solenoid windings. The soft iron plunger is drawn in moving the engaging lever which in turn moves the drive assembly towards the ring gear. The helical splines on the armature shaft rotate the pinion slowly to assist in engagement. Should a tooth of the advancing pinion abut a tooth of the ring gear, the engaging lever will compress the helical spring at the pinion until the switch contacts close. The pinion is then turned and engages with the ring gear under the helical spring pressure.
FIG. 1 -Lucas Starting Motor
REMOVAL & INSTALLAT ION
1. Disconnect the starter cable at the starter motor terminal, remove the flywheel housing to starter retaining screws. Remove the starter assembly. 2. Position the starter assembly to the flywheel housing and start the
FIG. 2- Wiring Diagram M40AK Starting Motor.
14-14
GROUP 14- STARTING SYSTEM
starter retaining screws. On a car with automatic transmission, the transmission dipstick tube bracket is mounted under the starter side mounting bolt. Snug all bolts, then tighten to specification, tighten the middle bolt first. 3. Reconnect the starter cable from battery and wiring to switch.
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS DISASSEMBLY
1. Remove the field coil/solenoid linking cable from the solenoid terminal. 2. Remove the starter motor through bolts. 3. Remove the brush gear retaining screws. 4. Withdraw commutator end cover assembly and field yoke assy. 5. Unscrew the solenoid retaining nuts and remove the solenoid. 6. Remove the armature assy. 7. Remove the thrust washer from the armature shaft. 8. Remove the jump ring. 9. Remove the thrust collar. 10. Withdraw pinion and drive assy. 11. Remove the pinion engaging lever pivot lock nut, pivot and remove lever. TESTING STARTER COMPONENTS
1 . Clean and inspect all parts. Check all bushings, bearing surfaces, pinion, engaging mechanism and electrical contacts for wear and replace worn parts. Check electrical joints and connections and repair where necessary . 2. FlEW COILS. The field winding insulation can be checked by connecting a 11 0 volt AC 15 watt test lamp between one of the brushes and part of the yoke. If the lamp lights it indicates that the field coils are earthed. Remove and rectify or replace the field coils as required. Check field coil continuity by connecting a 12 V battery operated test lamp, between each of the field coil brushes, and the field terminal. The lamp will light if continuity is satisfactory. 3. BEARING REPLACEMENT. Both end brackets are fitted with self lubricating porous bronze bearing bushes. New bushes must be immersed in clean engine oil (SAE 30-40 Grade) for a minimum of 24 hrs. before fitting and must not be reamed after fitting. Bushes should be replaced on the occasion of a major engine overhaul or when the starter motor is to be fitted to a replacement engine.
The bush in the drive end housing can be pressed out whilst supporting the housing. the bush in the Remove commutator end bracket by inserting a 9/16" tap for a few turns into the bush and withdraw the bush with the tap. CLUTCH AND 4. ROLLER DRIVE. The roller clutch is an over running or free wheeling device, which prevents the armature from being rotated at an excessive speed in the event of the drive being held in engagement after the engine has started. A roller clutch drive assembly in good condition will provide instantaneous take up of the drive in one direction and rotate smoothly and easily in the other. The assembly should move freely round and along the armature shaft splines without any roughness or tendency to bind . Should the assembly not meet these requirements, a replacement unit should be fitted. All moving parts should be liberally smeared with Molybond GS1 0 grease or a suitable equivalent. 5 . BRUSH BOX. Each of the four brushes should be free to move in the brush box moulding. Sticking brushes can usually be freed by cleaning the brushes and moulding with a petrol moistened cloth. Brushes which are worn to or are approaching 3/8" in length must
FIG. 3 -Testing the Brush Spring tension.
be renewed as a set. Note the positions of the long and short brush leads in relation to the commutator end bracket and field winding termination. (a) FIT NEW BRUSHES AS FOLLOWS:The two earth brushes, flexible leads and fixing plates are serviced as complete assemblies. To replace the field coil brushes, cut off their flexible lead 1/8 - 1/4" from the field winding joint. Solder the new long and short brush leads to the ends of the original leads. Ensure that the insulated sleeves on the leads provide maximum coverage consistent with satisfactory soldering. (b) BRUSH SPRINGS. To measure the brush spring pressures, position a new brush in each of the brush boxes in turn and then press on top of the brush with a push type spring gauge until the top of the brush protrudes about 1I16" from the brush box moulding. At this point the ~pring pressure reading should be approx. 28 oz. F. (see FIG. 3). 6. COMMUTATOR. A commutator in good condition will be burnished and free from pits and burned spots. Clean the commutator with a petrol moistened cloth. If the commutator is badly worn, mount the armature between centres in a lathe, rotate at high speed and take a light cut with a very sharp cutting tool. Do not remove more metal than is necessary. The minimum thickness to which the commutator may be skimmed before replacement is 0 .080". The commutator surface should be finally polished with very fine glass paper. NOTE: The insulators between the commutator segments must not be undercut. 7. FOULING OF ARMATURE AGAINST POLE FACES. Fouling of the armature against the pole faces indicates either worn bearings or a distorted shaft. A damaged armature must in all cases be replaced and no attempt should be made to machine the armature core or to straighten a distorted shaft. 8. ARMATURE WINDING INSULATION TESTS. (a) To check the insulation of the armature windings, remove all traces of brush dust with a dry air blast Using a 11 0 volt AC 15 watt test lamp, connect between a commutator segment and the armature shaft. If the lamp lights replace the armature. (b) Check the armature for short
14-15
PART 13-4 LUCAS STARTING SYSTEM
1. Bracket, Commutator End 2. Brush Spring and Plate Assembly 3. Brush Box Moulding 4. Face Type Commutator. 5. Bolt, Through Fixing.
10. Solenoid 16S. 11. Lever, Pinion Engaging. 12. Pivot Pin and Retaining Nut. 13. Nuts and Washers, Solenoid Fixing.
6. Yoke and Field Coils Assembly. 7. Drive Assembly. 8. Bracket, Drive End. 9. Bush, Bearing.
FIG. 4- Starting Motor (pre-engaged) Model M40AK.
DIAGRAM (A)
circuited windings using a "Growler" equipment. Replace the armature if a fault is indicated. TO REASSEMBLE
During assembly operations place a few drops of engine oil on the armature shaft bushes. Smear Molybond GSlO grease on the armature shaft and drive assembly helix. Also on the pivot points of the pinion engaging lever. Always use new jump rings during assembly. 1. Assemble the pinion and drive assembly to the armature shaft using a new jump ring. 2. Assemble the pinion engaging lever to the drive end bracket (closed side of the lever toward the drive end bearing). Do not fit the lock nut to pivot pin at this stage. 3. Assemble the solenoid to the drive end bracket and tighten the nuts. 4. Assemble the brushes to the brush box and attach the box to the commutator end bracket using the two attaching screws and washers.
BRUSH GEAR
RETAINING SCREWS
FIG. 5 -1740 AK starting motor.
14-16
GROUP 14- STARTING SYSTEM
NOTE: Ensure the long field brush lead "passes through the arch of the adjacent earth brush fixing plate. (FIG. 6).
DIAGRAM (B) LONGER FIELD BRUSH LEAD THREADED THROUGH EARTH BRUSH TERMINAL
5. Assemble the armature and drive assembly to the drive end bracket. 6. Assemble the yoke and field coil assembly to the drive end bracket. 7. Assemble the commutator end bracket and brush gear assembly to the yoke and field coil assembly. Fit the through bolts and torque to specification. 8. Assemble the field coil/solenoid linking cable and tighten the nut. PINION ENGAGING LEVER AD· JUSTMENT
a. Disconnect the solenoid lead to the starter motor field . b. Energise the solenoid with a 6-8 volt supply. (6-8 volts is used to prevent solenoid over heating). c. Using a screw driver in the recess, turn the pivot pin until the correct setting of O.Ql5 ± .005 is obtained between the pinion face and the thrust collar. d. Fit the lock nut to the eccentric pivot pjn and lock pin in position.
FIG. 6- Commutator end bracket, inside view.
14-17
PART 14-5
SPECIFICATIONS
FORD STARTER (8 Cylinder Engine) 3514V
Vendor
Current Draw Under Normal Load !Amperes)
Normal Enrine Crankinr Speed lrpml
Ford Positive Engagement 4 1!2-lnch Diameter
250
250-290
Minimum Stall Torque@ 7 Volts !Foot Pounds!
Bruabes Maximum No·Load Load (Amperes) IAmperesl
14
600
60
Mfr. Lenrth llnchesl
Wear Limit llnchesl
Brusn Sprinr Tensio1 IDuncesl
0.5
0.25
40
Maximum commutator runout in inches is 0.005. Maximum starting circuit voltage drop (battery + terminal to starter terminal @ normal engine temperature) 0.5 volt. Starter through-bolt torque 55-75 inch pounds. Starter mounting-bolt torque 3; 8 inch bolt two-hole mounting 15-20 foot pounds, 5/ 16 inch bolt three-hole mounting 12-15 foot pounds.
BOSCH SOLENOID UNIT Resistance of ma tn closing or sertes wtndin g
- R-estslance of
hold -on or shunt
0.40-0.46 ohm·
BOSCH STARTER 1.351 .60 ohms"
wtn dtng
250 1V - 2V - 302 2V - 351 2V
-
Spr tng pr essure to push plunge r fully home
16·20 lb .
Spring pressure to close sta rte r swttch con tact s
10·14 lb.
Tota l spindle trave l
0.170"" -0.210'"
Contact " follow-thr ough''
0.028 "-0.101 "
"Measured betwee11 the small terminal screw and terminal " STA" . W~en Lucar terminals are ftned. between small terminal on rioht as viewed from commutator end . .. Measured between the small term inal screw and earth. t. e. solenoid outer case or body.
Short Circuit Test Load Test No Load Test Commutator Out of round Mica undercut
Amp 395-445 210-240 50-70
R.P.M.
Volts 6.0 9.0 12.0
1150-1450 5900-7100 0.002" max. 0.03125" max.
Brush Gear Minimum length Spring Tension Armature End Play Braking Torque
0.5" 41-46 ozs. 0.002-0.012 2.2-3.5 in. ozs.
Solenoid Pull-in Voltage Drop-out Voltage
The specifications referred to above were in effect at the t ime th is publication was approved for printing, however Ford Motor Company of Australia Limited and/ or Ford Sales Company of Australia Limited , reserves the right, su bject to the laws of any state or territory and the regulations of any competant authority which may be applicable at the time, at its discretion and without notice , to change the specifications and prices of the products referred to herein at any time and without incurring any liability whatsover to any purchaser thereof.
Max.6 0.05-0.4
14-18
SPECIFICATIONS
LUCAS M40AK STARTING MOTOR USED ON XA FALCON 200 CID ONLY Lock Torque Current Terminal Voltage Running Torque @ 1000 r.p.m . Current Terminal Voltage
15 lb/pt 430A 7.0 v ± .1 7 lb/ft 280A 9.4 v ± .1
SOLENOID TYPE 16S Pull in voltage Current draw 2 coils Hold in winding Resistance Series winding Resistance shunt winding
7.5 volts maximum 60 amps maximum 12 amps. 0 .225 ± .017 ohms 0 .95 ± .07 ohms
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS Solenoid fixing nuts Terminal nut
4-5 lbs/ft. 20-24 lbs/in.
FALCON FAIRLANE w~:~~~~P
LIGHTING
GROUP 15
PAGE
General Lighting System, Horns and Instruments Service
15-2
PART 15-2-
Lighting System and Horns
15-7
PART 15-3-
Switches, Circuit Breakers and Fuses
15-12
PART 15-4-
Instruments
15-14
PART 15-5-
Specifications
15-23
PART 15-1-
15-2
PART 15-1
GENERAL LIGHTING SYSTEM, HORNS AND INSTRUMENT SERVICE
Section
Page
1 Diag nosis and Testing Light Trouble Diagnosis Guide Instrument Trouble Diagnos is Guide Horn Trouble Diag nosis Guide Turn Indicator Trouble Diagnosis Guide Windshield Wiper Trouble Diagnosi s Guide Headlight Switch and Beam Selector Switch Test Constant Voltage Regulator Test
D
15-2 15-2 15-3 15-3 15-3 15-3 15·5 15-5
Section
Page
Fuel Guage and Fuel Level Sending Unit Test Temperature Guage Test Oil Pressure Indicator Light Test Charge Indicator Light Test Speedometer Tests 2 Common Adjustments and Repairs Horn Adjustment 3 Clean ing and Inspection Two Speed Wiper Motor
15-5 15-5 15-5 15-5 15-4 15-6 15-6 15-6 15-6
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
LIGHT TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS GUIDE
ALL HEADLIGHTS DO NOT LIGHT
1. Loose battery cable. l. Loose quick disconnect or broken wire from the battery to the headlight switch. 3. Defective headlight switch. 4. Disconnected or broken wire from the headlight switch to the beam selector switch.
INDIVIDUAL LIGHTS DO NOT LIGHT
1. Burned out bulb. l. Loose or broken wires to the bulb.
LIGHTS BURN OUT REPEATEDLY
1. Loose or corroded electrical connections. l. Excessive vibration.
5. Loose or broken wire to the bulbs. 6. Defective beam selector switch. 7. All headlight bulbs burned out. This may be caused by a defective or improperly adjusted alternator voltage regulator (Group 13).
3. Poor ground.
3. Improperly adjusted or defective alternator voltage regulator (Group 13).
INSTRUMENT TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS GUIDE
OIL PRESSURE INDICATOR LIGHT INOPERATIVE
CHARGE INDICATOR LIGHT INOPERATIVE CHARGE INDICA TOR LIGHT STAYS ON AT IDLE
1. Indicator bulb burned out. l. Loose or broken wire from the light to the indicator switch. 1. Burned out bulb.
1. Faulty alternator and/or regulator.
1. Loose terminals on fuel gauge. FUEL GAUGE ERRATIC OR INOPERATIVE
l . Defective fuel gauge. 3. Loose, broken, or shorted wire from fuel gauge to the fuel tank sending unit.
3. Defective oil pressure sender unit (in this part).
l. Loose or broken wires.
2. Loose fan belt.
4. Defective constant voltage regulator. 5. Defective fuel tank sending unit. 6. Poor ground between fuel tank and body.
CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE
I""'
pART 15-1- GENERAL LIGHTING SYSTEM, HORNS INSTRUMENTS SERVICE INSTRUMENT TROUBLE
15-3
DIAGNOSIS GUIDE
1. Loose terminals on temp gauge. TEMPERATURE GAUGE ERRA TIC OR INOPERATIVE
FUEL, TEMPERATURE, AND OIL PRESSURE GAUGES ERRATIC
l. Defective temperature gauge. 3. Loose or broken wire from the temperature sending unit to the tern1. Loose or corroded constant voltage regulator ground. l. Defective constant voltage regulator.
perature gauge. 4. Defective temperature sending unit. 5. Defective constant voltage regulator.
3 Broken or loose conductor from or to the constant voltage regulator. 4. Defective ignition switch.
HORN TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS GUIDE
HORNS DO NOT SOUND
ONE HORN FAILS T0 OPERATE HORNS OPERATE
cONTINUOUSLY
1. Loose connections at horn button· con tact. 2. Open wire (blue/red) from horn to horn button. 3. Open wire (green) from fuse
box to horn button. 4. Horns defective or out of adjustment.
1. Broken or loose wire to the horn (blue/red).
l. Horn defective or out of adjustment.
5. Fuse burned out.
1. Horn button defective.
TURN INDICATOR TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS GUIDE
TURN INDICATOR LIGHTS I NOPERATIVE
1. Burned out bulbs, or loose sockets. l. Loose or broken wire from ignition switch to flasher. 3. Defective flasher.
TURN INDICATOR LIGHTS OPERATE INCORRECTLY
1. Burned out bulb. l. Loose, broken, or shorted wires from switch to lights.
TURN INDICATOR cANCELS IMPROPERLY
1. Cam improperly positioned on steering wheel hub.
4. Loose or broken wire from flasher to turn indicator switch. 5. Defective turn indicator switch. 6. Broken, shorted, or loose wires from switch to lights. 3. Defective indicator switch. 4. Defective flasher.
l. Coil spring on switch plate assembly loose or weak.
WINDSHIELD WIPER TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS GUIDE
I NOPERATIVE OR SLOW WIPER
1. Binding linkage. 1. Defective switch. 3. Defective wiper motor
4. Defective wiring or blown fuse.
GROUP 15· LIGHTING SYSTEM, HORNS AND INSTRUMENTS
15-4 •
AA ~L.CC)IIJ LOCA'nc:;lo".(
'Qt.ACK t:~CT '
- y·
® !f:-;.~~~~..t.-:.:.~ ® .,..lJrtl07 - CL.~
/
I
@ @
\
~.
''
,;- . M-0
-----\ '\
,,
\'
'
~O:SZ4 - _,.,. • 8CII..T
~0 - &N - ~HEIIII
'
,,'
\
\
"'
FIG. 1 -Installation Speedo Cable.
SPEEDOMETER DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES Speedometer system complaints are generally the result of a visible or audible defect in the system. It is imperative that the specific defect be determined prior to attempting any physical repairs to preclude unnecessarily disassembling system components. The following suggestions are intended to aid in quick and accurate system problem diagnosis. VISIBLE DEFECTS Slight Needle Waver or Severe Needle Fluctuation (No Noise)
I. Loose cable retainer . l. Defective speedometer head. 3. Bent cable core at attaching nut. 4. Kinked or pinched cable housing. 5. Excessive grease in speedometer head. Inoperative 1. Broken cable core. l. Defective drive and/ or driven gear. 3. Defective speedometer head. AUDIBLE DEFECTS Clicking or Ticking (With Needle Waver), Grinding or Ringing
I. Loose cable retainer. l. Defective drive and/ or driven gear. 3. Defective speedometer head. 4. No lube on cable.
SPEEDOMETER REPAIR PROCEDURES NOTE: To effect any tests or repairs on the speedometer head the instrument cluster must be detached from the instrument panel (see page 15·15) to gain access. DEFECfiVE SPEEDOMETER HEAD Before removing a speedometer head, disconnect the cable at the head and insert a short section of cable core in the head. Rotate the section of core to check for any dragging or noise. The speedometer shaft should turn freely and evenly. DEFEq'IVE CABLE CORE AND HOUSING 1. To check for a kinked cable core remove and wipe dry. Lay the core out stra\ght on a flat surface and roll it back and forth . Any kinks or damage will be seen. Then take an end in each hand, allowing core to hang in approximately a 9-inch loop. Rotate both ends to be sure core turns evenly. 2. Routing of the cable housing is
particularly important where the cable leaves the speedometer head. The optimum routing would provide that the cable and housing take virtually no change of direction for at least a length of 8 inches from the speedometer head. 3. When installing a new cable and housing it is necessary that the new assembly be guided and routed properly to eliminate any kinks. 4. Proper lubrication of the cable core is accomplished by a light application of a lubricant after the cable has been wiped clean. A light film is all that is required. DEFECTIVE DRIVE AND DRIVEN GEARS 1. A score nicked or gouged driven gear is usually indicative of a defective drive gear on those vehicles that have the drive gear integral with the transmission output shaft. The output shaft should be carefully inspected for imperfections and replaced if necessary. 2. A driven gear with two or three adjoining teeth badly scored is indicative of improper assembly procedure. The gear should be inserted in the transmission while simultaneously turning the drive shaft. This will insure initial gear engagement and prevent gear damage. Force should never be used. 3. Whenever a drive gear is replaced, a new driven gear should al-
PART 15-1- GENERAL LIGHTING SYSTEM, HORNS INSTRUMENTS SERVICE so be installed, regardless of its apparent condition.
nSTING Refer to Group 22 for schematics and locations of wiring harnesses. HORN TEST The only test necessary on the horn is for current draw. Current Draw Test
Connect a voltmeter and ammeter to the horn and to a voltage supply as shown in Fig. 2. The normal current draw for the horns at 12 volts is 4-5 amperes.
v
N;~~~~ ~
LEAD
~
POS.I~
LEAD
~
-4~-...,.--
+
FIG. 2 -Horn Current Draw Test HEADLIGHT SWITCH AND BEAM SELECTOR SWITCH TESTS The following tests may be made to determine whether a headlight switch or a beam selector sw1tch is defective: Turn on the headlights, and operate the beam selector switch. If none of the headlights turn on when the beam selector switch is operated, yet the instrument panel lights operate, the headlight switch or the red-yellow stripe wire from the headlight switch to the beam control switch is probably defective. Suhstitute a known good switch for the suspected switch to determine whether the switch or the wiring is at fault. If the headlights operate only with the beam selector switch in one position, the selector switch or the wiring from the switch to the headlight is defective. Substitute a known good selector switch for the suspected switch to determine whether the switch or the wiring is at fault. CONSTANT VOLTAGE REGULATOR TEST The instrument cluster must be removed to gain access to the voltage regulator and gauge terminals. Turn the ignition switch on, check for voltage at the fuel gauge upper terminal (Falcon) temp gauge terminal adjacent to the regulator screw. The voltage should oscillate beabout 10 tween zero and
volts. If it does not, the constant voltage regulator is defective, or there is a short to ground between the voltage regulator and the gauges. If a gauge unit is inaccurate or does not indicate, replace it with a new unit. If the gauge unit still is erratic in its operation, the sending unit or wiring to the sending unit is faulty. If both the fuel gauge and the temperature gauge indicate improperly and in the same direcdon, the constant voltage regulator could be defectin, as it supplies both gauges.
TESTING FUEL AND TEMPERATURE GAUGES FUEL GAUGE. A simple check to show whether it is the sender unit or gauge unit at fault is to fit a known good sender unit in the circuit. If the gauge unit reads proportionate to the float setting, the gauge unit is correct . Do not test gauge units by shorting terminals direct to earth. Minimum circuit resistance is to be held to 10 ohms for high indication. Lower resistances will destroy calibration. TEMPERATURE GAUGE TEST Start the engine and allow it to run at 1200 rpm for 30 minutes. Place a thermometer in the coolant at the radiator filler cap. The temperature should read a minimum of 180°F., and the gauge in the instrument panel should indicate within the normal band. If the gauge does not indicate, short the temperature sender unit terminal wire to ground (ignition switch on). Do not leave the sender wire grounded longer than necessary to make the test, as the gauge may be damaged. If the gauge now indicates, the sender unit is defective or not properly sealed to the engine. Be sure to use an electrically conductive sealer. If the gauge does not indicate, the gauge, the wires leading to the gauge, or the constant voltage regulator are at fault.
15-5
out, indicating that the oil pressure has built up a safe value. To test the oil pressure switch on the engine, turn the ignition switch on, engine not running, the indicator hgnt snould come on. If the indicator light does not come on, shch"t the terminal of the oil pressure switch unit to ground. If the tight now comes on, the oil pressure switch is defective or not properly sealed to the engine. Be sure to use electrically conductive sealer If the light still does not come on, the bulb is burned out or the wires from the bulb to the ignition switch and oil pressure switch are defective.
CHARGE INDICATOR LIGHT TEST .To test the charge indicator light, turn the ignition switch on with the engine stopped. The light should come on. If it does not, the bulb is burned out, or the wiring to the light is defective or there is a fault in the alternator/regulator circuit. Remove the wiring plug from the D+ terminal of the Bosch alternator regulator or the IND terminal of the Lucas alternator regulator. Connect a jumper lead from the D+ or IND terminal in the cable to earth. The indicator light should come on. If the light comes on the regulator is at fault. If the light does not come on the fault is in the wiring or globe . To check the globe and wiring the instrument cluster surround must be removed to gain access to the globe . SPEEDOMETER TESTS
OIL PRESSURE INDICATOR LIGHT TEST
To test the odometer accuracy, drive the car over a measured mile. Speedometer accuracy can be checked by comparing the speedometer in question against one known to be accurate, while two cars are moving at the same speed, or by timing the car on a measured mile.
To test the indicator light, turn on the ignition switch. Do not sta~t the engine. The light should come on. Start the engine. The light should go
Page 15 24 shows the correct combination of gears to use for various rear axle and tyre size combinations.
15-6
B
GROUP 15· LIGHTING SYSTEM, HORNS AND INSTRUMENTS COMMON ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
HORN ADJUSTMENT Horn current can be adjusted by changing the contact tension. Con-
nect the l).orn as shown in Fig. 2. Turn the self-locking adjusting pan
FIG. 4- Fairlane Printed Circuit.
FIG. 3 - Falcon Printed Circuit.
EJ
headed screw until the current is within the limits for the horn being adjusted.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
ADJUSTM~NT
SCR~W
TWO-SPEED WIPER MOTOR 1. Clean the gear housing of all old grease. Do not allow any cleanIng ftuld to contact the armature shaft and output shaft bearings.
gears for scored surfaces. Replace defective parts and add new grease to the housing and gears.
l. Wipe all other parts with a clean cloth.
3. Inspect the gear housing for cracks or distortion. Replace a cracked or distorted housing. HIGI-l OR LOW TON~ ID~NTIFICATION
4. Check all shafts, bushings, and
FIG. 5- Horn Adjustment.
15-7
PART 15-2
LIGHTING SYSTEM AND HORNS
Sec:tion Paae 1 Description and Operation ................ 15-9 Headlights .............................. 15-9 Horns .................................. 15-9 2 In-Car Adjustments and Repairs ........... 15-9 Headlight Alignment ..................... 15-9 Headlight Adjustment ................. . ... 15-9 Back-Up Light Adjustment. ................ 15-9 3 Removal and Installation .................. 15-10 Headlights .............................. 15-10
D
Gear Selector
Quadrant Light•............ 15-11
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
Refer to Group 22 for locations of wiring harnesses and schematics.
HEADLIGHTS The Falcon Models use two No. 2 type sealed-beam headlights. Each light has low-beam and highbeam filaments.
A conventional beam selector switch is located on the floorboard at the left of the driver. Quick disconnect terminals are also provided on the left and right of the radiator support assembly.
EJ
Sec:tion Paae Parking Light ........................... 15-10 Tail, Stop, and Back-Up Light Bulbs .... , ... 15-11 License Plate Light ....................... 15-11 Dome Light ............................. 15-11 Instrument Lights ........................ 15-11 Horns .................................. 15-11 Horn Switch............................. 15-11
The terminals are colour coded. Like colour terminals are connectEd. together.
HORNS Standard and De-Luxe models are fitted with one low tone horn. On
Fairmont, Futura and G.T. models a pair of tuned horns is used, one a high pitched tone, the other, which is similar to the single horn installation, has a low pitched tone. A horn button closes the circuit to the horn(s). High and low tone horns can be identified by the letter "H" or "L"
respectively cast into the throat of the horn (Fig. 3, Part 15-1). NOTE: Horns are located forward of the left front suspension tower. SEAT BElT WARNING LAMP. The standard vehicle has a seat belt warning lamp fitted which illuminates only whilst the ignition switch is held in the start position. On vehicles fitted with seat belt retractor a relay is used which illuminates the lamp for 12-1 ~ seconds after switching on the ignition.
IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
HEADLIGHT ALIGNMENT All headlight adjustments should be made with a half-full fuel tank plus or minus one gallon, with a person seated in the driver's seat, and a person in the passenger seat, the car unloaded and the trunk empty except for the spare tyre and jacking equipment, and recommended pressure in all tyres. Before each adjustment, bounce the car by pushing on the centre of both the front and rear bumpers, to ·level the car. To align the headlights by means of a wall screen, select a level por-
tion of the shop floor. Lay out the floor and wall as shown in Fig. 6.
HEADLIGHT ADJUSTMENT Adjust each upper headlight beam as shown in Fig. 6. Some states may not approve of the D + 2 inch dimension for the headlights. Check the applicable state law. Each headlight can be adjusted by means of two screws located between the light and radiator grill Fig. 5 & 6. CAUTION Always adjust aiming screw counter clockwise then clockwise until high intensity of light is
properly aimed. This will bring the beam into final position with the unit held under proper tension when operation is completed. Note: Do not check aim on the low beam.
BACK UP LIGHT ADJUSTMENT
Place the shift lever in the reverse position. Loosen the switch retaining clamp and position the switch so that the operating plunger is depressed n ~. Ensure that the switch body is not contacting the shift arm and is parallel to the arm. Tighten the clamp.
15-8
GROUP 15- LIGHTING SYSTEM, HORNS AND INSTRUMENTS
_., ~~ l\1«"'
&!~~
\'(
~~
~~
~~ ~§
.,_:t
"~~ ~
~~~ ~
~
.
_., ~~.
•
J
I '-'P'
..
I
.I •§ ~
-fi
i
'<
'<
~
~ ~
'"
~ ':l
I
~
~
l
F'l I I
.,;
:i
0
:I
> j -;;;
s:
"C
.. c
IV
0 0
u:: I (I)
52 LL.
PART 15-2- LIGHTING SYSTEM AND HORNS
15-9
FIG. 7- Headlight and Parklight Installation - Falcon Typical.
\
II
- ----
I~
(j
6
P. H
LH
(})13015 PIING HE.IIDIAMf> Rf:TAINING
.2
2.
0
13088 CLIP H£AOIAMP SPRING AA&oA
2
2
0
1.300 7 BUL B A 55Y
G
IJII B R INGA..S 5Y HCADIAMP HGH &AM
N£AOLAMP (H13 )
@ 1311.9 RING A~ Y UO,D/.ANP H IGH BU,M -
® IJO ' !l HOUSING A SSY
@
HOU.StNC A.S .S Y
1-/l:ADLAMP HEADLAMP
IJOJZ .SCRCW HCADLAMPADJUSTING 4
® IJOJI ) PR!Nef.c"!J;~~p @ 13021 @
PAD
NI/ T H£A[)I. A I'fP IILl.JUSTI Nt;
13046 A lNG
A .~SY
.,
H£ At;U.AMPJJJW MAM I
,.......,..------------------' @ 1.304 1 AINC. ASS Y ,;£AOLIWIP !OW SCAM J J @ 1.3007 B UL B ASS Y H£11DLAMP (t .IJ.) ,/
FIG. 8- Headlight and Parklight Installation - Fairlane Typical.
4
l
of
15-10
EJ
GROUP 15- LIGHTING SYSTEM, HORNS AND INSTRUMENTS
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
HEADLIGHTS
REMOVAL To replace the sealed beam unit, remove the radiator grill and remove the three sealed beam retaining rim screws. Lift the sealed beam unit free of its cradle. Remove the push-on 3-pin connector by holding the headlight assembly and applying a firm pulling
action to the connector. Remove sealed beam unit from vehicle. REPLACEMENT Align the three-pin connector with the contacts in the sealed beam unit and push on. Fit the sealed beam unit to cradle ensuring the three locating lugs engage in cradle locating slots. Fit the retaining rim and fit three screws. Refit grill and aim headlights.
Whenever a sealed beam umt IS replaced or any other alterations are made to a headlight assembly the headlights should always be checked for alignment and adjusted as described on page 157. PARKING LIGHT
The parking light of FairlaneFalcon vehicles is shown in Fig. 9 To replace the bulb remove the le~s retaining screws and the lens. (i)
~
IJ2o6/1 800Y AMY- PARK UMP
~
8UL8~Y .32C'P
j
13211 ~r PARK U.NP UNU 13A32f,/7 L[Nj TURN .:,K,NAL <¥'TIC ~/JA2.36 :;,JII£LD L.WP SID£ l.lZ08J9 L£N,5 PoRI
(]) £139 -NC ·2 8UL8 ASSY
2 1/1 2
@
•
G
!
S600.:1 :!>CREW •
ll PAN N£AO
&.SO.XU. .:JCRCW ,. 8 .l21WV HCAD /} C-'62u /llur ... e u· TYP£ e
FIG. 9- Installation Drg. Park Lamps.
01JAS.J7 6ClCL AJH RCI'IIt LAW
L£N.S
0
IJ4l0
®
1$/H
Q)1.1• .. s
@)
GA.\I'CT AC.AIItiJI&N.UNI ICCAitl.ANP
.I
.l
Pv40 .ctf;AA LAMP Altt/UflniNG .l
8t.t..e A.S.H'
•ut•
IJ
~ .1.-..71
@
.l
ltCARLA/IIIP
@I.J4.J4 .COY A3SY'
FIG. 10- Falcon- rear lamp installations.
1/1 2 2 1{1
1/.J • • Itx!J
A.U1'
.J.l·4C.~ .U. CP
.S.HICLD ·MAA J.A,..-
w.-r ,. . u~WJt. NUT· -"'A.JY,OC .UA.t._
© 'IU7-S
lr&
@t~M711*'>
.SriC) ,.....
fl.
*
qcQD
15-11
PART 15-2- LIGHTING SYSTEM AND HORNS TAIL, STOP, AND BACK-UP LIGHT BULBS
To replace the tail, stop, and/ or the back-up lights, remove the retaining screws and remove the lens. See Figs. 10-11-12. LICENCE PLATE LIGHT Bulb replacement is straightforward as there is no lens covering the licence plate bulb. DOME LIGHT
Remove the self fixing dome light lens and replace the bulb. INSTRUMENT LIGHTS
Instrument cluster illumination lamp bulb replacement necessitates removal of the instrument cluster as described in Part 15-4. Once the cluster has been removed simply remove the bulb holder from the cluster replace the bulb and reinsert the assembly in the cluster. GEAR SELECTOR QUADRANT LIGHT COLUMN SHIFT.
1. Remove the horn switch.
2. Remove the steering wheel retaining nut and using a suitable puller withdraw the wheel. 3. Remove the globe.
wheel and disconnect the horn wires at the steering wheel hub. 3. Remove the steering wheel pad/horn switch assembly. Reverse this procedure for assembly.
GEAR SELECTOR QUADRANT LIGHT FLOOR SHIFT.
HORN SWITCH G.T. & G.S.
1. Remove the console and dial assy. 2. Remove the globe.
1. Remove the steering wheel pad by removing the retaining screws from the under side of the steering wheel spokes. 2. Disconnect the rim blow horn switch connections at the steering wheel hub. 3. Strip the horn switch from the steering wheel rim.
HORNS
Disconnect the horn wire from the terminal. Remove the horn mounting bracket to horn retaining screws and remove the horn. To install, mount the horn in position, then connect the horn wire to the horn terminal.
TO REASSEMBLE
1. Feed the horn switch into the steering wheel rim groove using a small steel spatula (approx. same size as 6" rule). 2. Connect the horn leads at the steering wheel hub. 3. Reinstall the steering wheel pad.
HORN SWITCH
1. Remove the two steering wheel centre pad/horn switch retaining screws from the underside of the steering wheel spokes. 2. Lift the pad/horn switch assembly away from the steering
@.U.OU?U..-•Al.M~-
@•.lue/t
u..- .._.
,
I
(J) •J·~~ .... ~""""·-
@ tJ •._
G..._.,. . ..... .-w:..
(j) ........, ... _.ow•··~..-
ll> ..... -· -- - - · · · C!> ••l• -... ........... ~
'
'
® •J•u ._..,, ...uc.•
Ci>"··® - __.....__. ,.. __ (I#IU•
.ICA&W -
6 .U
-
.....
•
"'~~·~..- ----~.....:........
FIG. 11 - Fairlane- rear lamp installations. 0 0 0
e
I.J
GASifET
REAA
TUIW ~
A-liD · RCAit t ANJP /IIIDUNTIIIG I
/J ""-34/~
&OOYA.SSY /f£ARI.ANIP
@ I.J4sc; UNS IJ.6..5
151$1~
R£AA TlJAI¥
aut&
~UY
8VLI5
A$$Y
0..$.S O . .J4·.UII:
@."i16·46 - SJ '
FIG. 12- Ute·Van- rear lamp installations.
~"
t::ASK£ T olli:Aolll LANIPl..CHJ
IJ 4.1.0
0•.J.J:Z.6/fi.Ut3A£1414 LAN'IP
0 0
I.ZNS
/.J41io/l
.SC.Itt::.W
.SCNW
I
15-12
PART 15·3
SWITCHES, CIRCUIT BREAKERS, AND FUSES
Section
Page
Section
Page
Description and Operation .. . . .. .. . ... . . . . Headlight Switch ........ . ... .. ........ . Fuse Panel ..... .. . . . . ........ .. ....... . Mechanical Stop Light Switch ..... . . . ..... . Reversing Light Switch .. . ............... . 2 Removal and Installation . .. . ... . ....... . Headlight Switch . ......... . ... . ....... . Headlight Beam Selector Switch ....... . ... .
15-12 15-12 15-12 15-12 15-12 15-13 15-13 15-13
Stop Light Switch Dome Light Switch Ignition Switch and Lock Cylinder ....... . ... . Windshield Wiper Switch ................ . . .
15-13 15-13 15-13 15-13
Neutral Start Switch ...................... .
15-13
Back-Up Light Switch . .. . . ..... . ......... .
15-13
D
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
The reversing light switch is incorporated in the inhibitor switch on automatic transmission vehicles. In column shift manual transmission vehicles the plunger type switch is located on a bracket at the steering column lower bearing where it is actuated by the first and reverse shift lever. On floor shift manual transmission vehicles the plunger type switch is mounted on a bracket on the front of the shift mechanism where it is actuated by the reverse shift lever as it reaches the reverse position.
Refer to Group 22 for locations of wiring harnesses and schematics. HEADLIGHT SWITCH
A separate headlight switch and circuit breaker is used. The headlight circuit is protected by a 22 ampere circuit breaker. The tail, parking, licence plate light and horn circuits are protected by 8 amp fuses. FUSE PANEL
The fuse panel is mounted on the right of the dash panel under the right-hand air vent. Fig.I3 shows the fuses, their valves and locations. MECHANICAL STOP LIGHT SWITCH
REYIISING LIGHT SWITCH
FIG. 13- Fuse Panel Location- Typical.
The mechanical stoplight switch is located on the brake pedal support bracket and is operated by a lever extending from the brake pedal arm. With the brake pedal in the r~ leased position and a test lamp connected to the switch terminals adjust the switch as follows1. Release the locknuts retaining the switch body. 2. Move the switch body forward until the test lamp goes out. 3. Move the switch body a further 0. 050" forward. 4. Tighten the locknuts.
FIG. 14- Mechanical Stoplight Switch Installation
SWITCHES, CIRCUIT BREAKERS AND FUSES
EJ
15-13
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
HEADLIGHT SWITCH 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. 2. Prise the switch forward from the instrument cluster. 3. Disconnect wiring and remove the switch. 4. Connect wiring to the switch connections. 5. Press the switch assembly into the aperture.
HEADLIGHT BEAM SELECTOR SWITCH Lay the ftoor mat back from the area of the switch, and remove the mounting screws (Fig. 15). Disconnect the wire terminal block from the switch. To install the switch, connect the terminal block to the switch and in· stall the switch to the floor. Replace the ftoor mat.
STOP LIGHT SWITCH 1. Disconnect the wires at the connector. 2. Release the locknut (pedal side) and withdraw the switch. 3. Reverse the above procedure to replace the switch. 4. Adjust the switch as in section 1.
DOME LIGHT SWITCH The dome light switch is incorporated in the panel lamp switch. It is actuated by rotating the switch control wheel to the right when once the panel lamps have reached full brilliance . The further rotation of the wheel switches the dome lamp on. The dome lamp also acts as a courtesy lamp actuated by switches tn the door pillars.
IGNinON SWITCH AND LOCK CYUNDER 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
FIG. 15 - Headlight Beam Selector Switch 2. Remove the column from the vehicle. 3. Remove the steering lock shroud and shift tube. Page 3 - 38 4. Cut slots in the steering lock attaching bolts with a hacksaw and remove the bolts with a screw driver or hammer and centre punch. 5. Rotate the lock around the column tube until one end of the base clears the aperture, lift the lock from the column. 6. Place the steering/ignition lock assembly into the steering column 7. Engage new recessed bush in the shear head bolts and tighten them evenly until the heads shear off. Install shift tube. 8. Assemble the shroud to the column. 9. Assemble the column to the vehicle. LOCK BARREL REPLACEMENT.
1. Remove the steering/ignition lock shroud lower attaching screw from beneath the shroud. 2. Turn the ignition key to the off or on position. 3. Push a 0.062 dia. pin into the lock thiough the shroud lower mounting hole to raise the barrel locking pin and remove the barrel Fig. 16.
FIG. 16- Typical Ignition Switch Removed. 4. Align the barrel tongue and aperture and assemble the barrel to the lock and raise the barrel locking pin by turning the key to the start position. 5. Assemble the lock shroud lower attaching screw.
WINDSHIELD WIPER SWITCH 1. Disconnect the battery cable. 2. Prise the switch from the instrument cluster. 3. Disconnect wiring and remove the switch. 4. Connect wiring to the switch connections. 5. Press the switch assembly into the aperture .
NEUTRAL START SWITCH See group 7 for replacement of the neutral start switch on cars equipped with automatic transmissions.
BACK-UP LIGHT SWITCH 1. Remove the two wires from the switch. 2. Loosen the retaining clamp or locknuts. 3. Remove the switch.
15-14
PART 15-4
INSTRUMENTS
Sec:tion 1. Description and Operation
. .. ........... Gauges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Constant Voltage Regulator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fuel Gauge. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Temperature Gauge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Charge Indicator Light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil Pressure Indicator Light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Turn Indicator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Speedometer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brake Warning Lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2. In-Car Adjustments and Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . Windshield Wiper Blade Adjustment . . . . . . . 3. Removal and Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Instrument Cluster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fuel, Temperature Gauges . . . ........... Printed Instrument Circuit . . . ........... Fuel Sending Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pare 15-14 15-14 15-14 15-14 15-15 15-15 15-15 15-15 15-15 15-15 15-15 15-15 15-15 15-15 15-16 15-16 15-17
Section
Temperature Sending Unit .............. . Oil Pressure Switch ..................... . Turn Indicator Switch ................... . Turn Indicator Flasher ................... . Speedometc!r and Tachometer ............ . Speedometer Cable ..................... . Windshield Wiper Motor ................. . Wiper Pivot Shaft and Link .............. . 4. Major Repair Operations .................. Disassembly-Permanent Magnet Type TwoSpeed Electric Wiper Motor ............. Inspecting and Testing Disassembled Motor .... Testing and Assembled Motor .............
Pare 15-17 15-17 15-17 15-17 15-16 15-16 15-17 15-17 15-18 15-19 15-19 15-20
NOTE: If the instruments require servicing while the assembly is removed from the instrument panel, the cluster case must be earthed to the vehicle body. Failure to observe this precaution will cause immediate damage to the fuel and temperature gauges as soon as any power is applied to the electrical circuits.
D
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
All of the instruments are electrically operated except the speedometer. Brightness of the instrument panel lights is controlled by a rheostat adjacent to the lighting switch. GAUGES
The instrument cluster includes a fuel gauge, temperature gauge, charge indicator light, oil pressure indicator light, speedometer, high beam indicator light, a left- and right-hand turn signal indicator light, brake warning light, and stop lamp and brake warning light. CONSTANT VOLTAGE REGULATOR
The constant voltage regulator (Fig. 17) used with the fuel, temperature, and oil gauges maintains an average value of S.O volts at the gauge terminals. The regulator operates by means of a bimetallic arm and a heating coil. When the ignition switch is turned on, the heating coil (Fig. 17).
heats the bimetallic arm causing it to bend and break the contacts, disconnecting the voltage supply from the heating coil. The bimetallic arm then cools and brings the contacts together again. The making and breaking of the contacts, causes a pulsating voltage, with an effective average value of S.O volts to be supplied to the gauges. Although these pulsations are quite rapid, there is in each gauge a bimetallic arm which changes temperature quite slowly, and this assures steady average readings. As the pulsating voltage would normally cause radio interference, a radio interference suppression choke is connected in series with the constant voltage regulator supply wire.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE UNIT
FIG. 17- Gauge Voltage Regulator and Temperature Gauge - Typical.
FUEL GAUGE
The fuel gauge consists of a sending unit, located on the fuel tank, and a remote register unit (fuel gauge) mounted in the instrument cluster. The remote register unit pointer is controlled by a bimetallic arm and heating coil. The sending unit is a
rheostat that varies its resistance depending on the amount of fuel in the tank. The rheostat is operated by a float control. As the fuel level rises or falls the float control arm moved by the float, varies the resistance.
15-15
PART 15-4- INSTRUMENTS COIL
TEMPERATURE SENDING UNIT
turned on, and it should go out when the engine comes up to speed. The light is connected between the oil pressure switch unit mounted on the engine at the left rear on the six, above the oil filter on the V-8 (Fig. 18) and the coil terminal of the ignition switch. The G.T. has an oil gauge adjacent to the tachometer. TURN INDICATOR
The turn indicator uses a single filament globe in the upper section of the front park/ indicator combination lamp and the centre section of the rear light assembly. The turn indicator flasher is located in the back of the instrument panel, on the steering column brace. OIL PRESSURE SWITCH
FIG. 19- Oil Pressure Switch and Temperature Sending Unit 6 Cyl.
FIG. 18 -Temperature Sender and Oil Pressure Switch - V8 Typical.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
The temperature gauge consists of a $ending unit mounted in the cylinder head at the top front on the V-8 (Fig. 18 or 19), left rear on the six, and a remote register unit, (temperatl•~e gauge) mounted in the instrument cluster. Changes of engine temperature vary the resistance of the sending unit which in tum operates the temperature gauge. CHARGE INDICATOR LIGHT
A red alternator charge indicator
EJ
OIL PRESSURE INDICATOR LIGHT
An amber indicator light illuminates when the oil pressure is below a safe value. The light should come on when the ignition switch is first
The speedometer is connected to the output shaft of the transmission by means of a flexible shaft, and a drive gear located inside the transmission. The flexible shaft drives the speedometer which registers speed in miles per hour and also drives an odometer which records distance traveled in miles and tenths of a mile. BRAKE WARNING LAMP
A red indicator lamp illuminates when either the front or rear brake systems become inoperative. The warning light switch is located in the master cylinder body. "Prove out" of the light circuit is conducted by turning the ignition switch to the start position when the lamp should illuminate.
IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
WINDSHIELD WIPER BLADE ADJUSTMENT Turn the ignition switch to the
EJ
light is used. This light illuminates if the battery is discharging and the alternator is not supplymg current. When the ignition switch is closed, battery current flows through the charge indicator light and through the regulator voltage limiter to the field . When the alternator output voltage opposing battery voltage is high enough the charge indicator light goes out.
SPEEDOMETER
accessory position. Turn the wiper switch on and off to allow the wiper motor to adopt the park position.
Install the wiper blades so that they lie flat within 1i-2! ins. from lower edge of windsq·een (measured at centre of blades).
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
1. Remove the three screws, (five screws Fairlane) retaining the cluster housing. 2. Remove the housing toward the steering column. 3. Disconnect warning lamps (and
/or Gauges G.T.). 4. Remove the housing from behind the steering column by moving it toward the centre of the vehicle (select 1st or 1 gears on column shift vehicles).
5. Remove the four cluster retain-
ing screws (one in each corner of the cluster body), and partially remove the cluster. 6. Disconnect speedo cable and printed circuit plug. 7. Complete removal of the cluster by rolling the top back toward the column.
15-16
GROUP 15-
LIGHTING SYSTEM, HORNS AND INSTRUMENTS 3. Remove the housing from behind the steering column and remove the gauge retaining screws. 4. Remove the gauges from the housing. FUEL & TEMPERATURE GAUGES FAIR LANE.
l. Remove the instrument cluster as previously outlined. 2. Remove the four screws attaching the lens and cover to the canister. 3. Remove the terminal speed nuts from the gauges and remove the gauges from the canister. FIG. 20- Speedo Cable to Speedo Connection. SPEEDO CABLE DISCONNECT FROM SPEEDO HEAD
1. Remove the crash pad and cover (from right hand side). 2. Using a long screw driver or solid rod depress the release tab and pull the cable away from the speedo head. (Fig. 20).
from the temperature gauge mask and remove it from beneath the needle. 4. Remove the terminal speed nuts retaining the gauges to the rear half of the canister and remove the gauges. NOTE: The fuel gauge mask must be removed before the temp gauge or mask can be removed.
FUEL & TEMPERATURE GAUGES
I . Remove the instrument cluster as previously outlined. 2. Remove the two upper screws retaining the lenses and the two screws holding the two halves of the cluster together. 3. From the front of the gauges, remove the two screws retaining the fuel gauge mask, unclip the mask
FUEL & TEMPERATURE GAUGES G.T.&G.S.
1. Remove the instrument cluster housing (3) retaining screws and lay the housing toward the steering column. 2. Remove the gauge wiring and disconnect the warning lamp holders from the housing.
SPEEDOMETER & TACHOMETER.
1. Remove the instrument cluster and separate it as previously outlined under fuel and temperature gauge removal. 2. Remove two retaining screws from the backs of the speedometer/ tachometer. NOTE: On Fairlane remove fuel and temperature gauges prior to attempting to remove the speedometer. 3. Remove the speedometer I tachometer from the cluster. PRINTED CIRCUIT.
Replacement of the printed circuit can only be achieved once the gauges -speedometer/tachometer have been removed. Fig. 3 & 4.
A
~·:_.h-k-··
~~r )'
WIN IN DIRCCTI(.W Lit ""~'JW S/llfJWfN6 €J..R.T,.,IC.III.. CONNt.Cflt..-~W ~ 'iCtkJIMD 1"'.-H .W.SfJUI..AIIIJ/N (AtJI.Jin()lllltt ICJ ;TA-N/)NO(I~HK.)
ALL FALCON MODCL5 UCEPT 54H ~I T WAIININ* I.. AMI' .J0CK£r A.S.SY.J. A r IVVItii6611£1J LDCATIONS INACCOifiJANCI ¥lii'Jt /ltiMIN4 1/JIHr/"CArN:IN J(NIDVl.6. 611.01111 :
@)
61..VC/WNI T£ 4 61fiiN
~
&AC'If/,-ILI.OW~ #HEN
@
FIG. 21 - Installation Drg. Cluster Housing.
Wllnl # GIIIIIV YILLOW/61..ACK 4 ILACK-{AIMOtfl rAN WHIN lf.IIO. JIA 1" . , , r WAifNINe .S~I,/ID DNL Y) ~IIN/.LACK 4 .LACK
PART 15-4- INSTRUMENTS CLOCK.
OIL PRESSURE SWITCH
1. Remove the instrument cluster housing. 2. Remove the instrument panel pad, right hand end cover. 3. Remove the two clock attaching screws. 4. Disconnect the clock leads. 5. Remove the clock through the end opening in the instrument panel.
To replace the unit disconnect the wire from the terminal. Remove the unit from the engine. Apply conductive sealer to the threads and install the wire to the terminal and check the operation of the unit.
WARN lNG LAMPS.
1. Remove the instrument cluster housing. 2. ·Remove bulb holders from the housing. NOTE: On Fairlane vehicles remove the heater control panel to gain access to the brake warning lamp. FUEL SENDING UNIT
1. Remove the fuel from the fuel tank. 2. Disconnect the fuel gauge sending unit wire from the sending unit. 3. Loosen the hose clamp and disconnect the tank line at the sending unit. 4. Remove any dirt that has accumulated around the sending unit so that it will not enter the tank. S. Turn the sending unit retaining ring counterclockwise and remove the unit, retaining ring, and mounting gasket. 6. Clean the fuel gauge sending unit mounting surface at the fuel tank. 7. Position the sending unit and mounting gasket on the fuel tank and secure with the retaining ring. 8. Connect the sending unit wire and the fuel tank line. 9. Fill the tank with the fuel removed. 10. Check the fuel gauge operation and check for leaks. RMPERATURE SENDING UNIT
t. Disconnect the temperature sending unit wire from the sending unit 2. Prepare the new temperature sending unit for installation by applying a small amount of conductive water-resistant sealer to the threads. 3. Remove the temperature sending unit from the cylinder head and immediately install the new temperature sending unit. 4. Connect the wire to the temperature sending unit. S. Start the engine and check the sending unit operation.
TURN INDICATOR SWITCH
REMOVAL 1. Disconnect the negative (ground) cable from the battery. l. Remove the steering wheel hub and steering wheel retaining nut. 3. Remove the steering wheel from the shaft. 4. Disconnect the two wire-connector blocks at the dash panel above the steering column. S. Remove the wires and terminals from the connector blocks. This can be done by depressing the tab on the wire terminal with an awl, or by in~rting a ball point pen (refill plastac type) over the bullet pin and pull the wire and terminal from the connector block. Record the color code and location of each wire before removing It from the connector block. Tape the wires together and attach a piece of heavy cord to the wires to help pull the wires through the steering column during installation. 6. Remove the turn indicator handle from the side of the steering column. 7. Remove 3 bearing retainer attaching screws and remove the bearing retainer and tum indicator switch and wires from the steering column. Disconnect the heavy cord from the switch wires. INSTALLATION 1. Tape the ends of the switch wires together and attach the cord to the wires. l. Pull the wires down through the steering column with the cord, and position the switch to the steering column hub. 3. Install the bearing retainer and attaching screws. 4. Install the turn indicator switch lever. S. Press the switch wires into the connector blocks in their correct locat.ion recorded during removal. Plug the connector blocks together with the mating connector blocks at the dash panel. 6. Install the steering wheel on the shaft. 7. Install the steering wheel retaining nut and hub. 8. Connect the battery ground
15-17 cable and check the operation of the turn signal switch and horns. TURN INDICATOR RASHER
Disconnect the wires from the flasher unit terminal, turn flasher and remove. Observe the colour code and number on the cover of the flasher. Be certain to replace it 'with a new flasher with the same colour code and number on the cover. WIPER PIVOT SHAFT AND LINK
1. Remove the windshield wiper blade and arm assembly. 2. Remove the-pivot shaft retaining nut, bezel and gasket. 3. Disconnect the wiper link from the motor and remove the link and pivot shaft assembly. 4. Position the link and pivot shaft assembly on the cowl and wiper motor. Connect the link to the motor. 5. Install the pivot shaft to the cowl and install the gasket, bezel, and retaining nut. 6. Install the wiper blade and arm assembly. 7. Check the pivot shaft and link operation. WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR AND WASHER ASSEMBLY REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the harness from the Wiper Motor. 2. Remove the three hoses connected to the Washer Pump. 3. Remove the three bolts retaining the Wiper Motor and mounting seal assembly to the dash panel. Lower the assembly and disconnect the wiper ~inks at the motor. Remove the Motor and Washer Assemblv. INSTALLA liON
1. Position the Motor and Washer Assembly and assemble the connecting wiper links to the motor. 2. Position the Motor and Washer assembly to the dash panel and install three retaining bolts. 3. Connect the harness connector to the Wiper Motor. 4. Connect large hose to inlet and two small hoses to outlet connections on washer pump. 5. Connect the battery and check the operation of the Wiper Motor and the 'park position' of the Wiper Blades. WIPER PIVOT SHAFT AND LINK REMOVAL
1. Remove the windshield wiper
GROUP 15- LIGHTING SYSTEM, HORNS AND INSTRUMENTS
15-18
blade and arm assembly. 2. Remove the nine cowl panel attaching screws and remove the cowl panel. 3. ReQ1ove six bolts retaining pivots. 4. Disconnect the wiper link from the Motor and remove the link and pivot shaft assembly.
' MOUNTING CLIP
INSTALLATION
1. Position the link and pivot shaft assembly on the cowl and wiper motor. Connect the link to the motor. 2. Install the pivot shaft to the cowl and install six bolts to retain pivots. 3. Install the cowl panel. 4. Install the Wiper Blade and Plrm J\ssembly. 5. Check the Pivot Shaft and Link operation.
IJ
SPEEDO>IETER DRIVEN GEAR
K 1629 · A
FIG. 22- Speedo Driven Gear.
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS (Preslite)
FIG. 23- Wiper Motor Assy.
ITEM 1 3
5 7 9 11
13 15 17 19 21 23
DESCRIPTION Clamp Nut Seal Terminal Block J\ssembly Distance Washer Thrust Cone Terminal Brush Screw Plrmature J\ssembly Thrust Pad J\ssembly Wave Washer Screw
ITEM 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22
DESCRIPTION Motor Crank J\ssembly Grommet Insert Gear Housing J\ssembiy Gear & S ¥ J\ssembly Washer Pump J\ssembly Screw Brush Spring Spring Washer Ball Motor Housing J\ssembly Earth Finger
15-19
PART 15-4· INSTRUMENTS DISASSEMBLY PERMANENT MAGNET TYPE TWO SPEED ELECTRIC WIPER MOTOR 1. Remove the clamp nut (1), Motor Crank, Assembly (2), Wave Washer (21), Flat Washer (7), Grommet Insert (4) and Mounting Seal (3). 2. Clean the gear housing of old grease. Do not allow cleaning fluid to contact the armature shaft and output shaft · bearings. Wipe all other parts with a clean cloth. 3. Remove the two screws (15), lockwashers (16) and motor housing assembly (20). Do not pound the Motor housing assembly as the ceramic magnets may be damaged. Remove the ball (18) and thrust pad assembly (19). 4. Note: That the ball may have dislodged and become attracted to the magnets during the dismantling operation, and it is essential that this item is located. 5. Retract the brushes (13) and withdraw the armature assembly (17) and thrust cone (9). 6. Remove the four screws (12),
Terminal (11) and Washer Pump Assembly (10). 7. Disconnect the feed wire (miniature terminal) from the wiper motor. 8. Remove the gear and shaft assembly (8) and distance washer (7). 9. Insert screwdriver in slot at base of terminal block assembly (5). Prise upwards to free terminal block assembly, unsolder wires and remove from housing (6). 10. Remove self-tapping screw (23) and earth finger (22).
INSPECTING AND TESTING THE DISASSEMBLED MOTOR 1. Cover motor housing bearings and blow dust from interior with compressed air. 2. Visually inspect for damage to the ceramic magnets-replace motor housing assembly if necessary. 3. Visually inspect the armature assembly for burned commutator bars, galling or pitting of the armature shaft bearing area and worm gear for scoring. Check thrust ball for pitting, balling or discolouration due
to heat. Replace if necessary. 4. Test for grounded armature. Obtain a test lamp and battery, connect one probe to the armature shaft or armature stack, and touch each commutator segment in turn with the other probe. The lamp should NOT light. If the lamp lights the armature is grounded and must be replaced. 5. Inspect the brush holder plate for cracks or damage. Ensure that brush boxes are secure and that connections are not burned or corroded. 6. Replace motor brushes that are worn down to f long. Examine brush springs for distortion, burning or collapse. Normal brush spring length is 1!" minimum. Replace if necessary. 7. Examine the gear housing for cracks and distortion, and the bearings for excessive wear. Examine the three parking fingers for loss of tension, burning or pitting. Replace gear housing assembly if necessary. 8. Examine the gear and shaft assembly for worn or damaged teeth. Check cam for wear on face. Replace
7
6 4
~
8
3
s
t
~\2
'0
FIG. 24
ITEM 1 3 5 7 9 11 13
DESCRIPTION Housing Assembly Suction Cap Trim Cup Valve Cover Valve Seal Screw Bush
ITEM 2 4
6
8 10 12 14
DESCRIPTION Solenoid Assembly Plunger Cover Valve Seat Valve Rubber Plunger & Lever Assembly Spring
~
15-20
GROUP 15- LIGHTING SYSTEM, HORNS AND INSTRUMENTS
if necessary.
ASSEMBLY 1. Apply grease to the centredrilled holes in each end of the armature shaft. Assemble the Thrust Cone (9) to the worm end of the shaft and the -&" diameter ball (18) to the other end of the shaft. 2. Assemble brush springs (14) and brushes (13) to the gear housing assembly. 3. Retract the brushes and assemble the armature assembly (17) to the gear housing assembly. 4. Apply stiff grease to the back face of the thrust pad assembly (19) and locate in the recess in the bottom of the motor housing assembly (20). 5. Assemble the motor housing assembly (20) to the gear housing assembly (6). Ensure that the wiring to the brushes does-not foul the motor housing. Assemble the two screws (15) and lockwashers (16). 6. Adjust armature shaft thrust screw in until resistance is felt and then back off screw a quarter turn. 7. To secure earth finger (22) to gear housing (6), install screw (23). 8. Install terminal plate assembly (5) to gear housing. Ensure that flanges on terminal plate assembly are located in receiving slot in housing (6).
9. Apply No. 2 cup grease to parking plate and cam track (8). 10. Assemble the distance washer (7) on the gear shaft assembly (8) and assemble gear and shaft assembly to the gear housing. 11. Install mounting seal (3) to gear housing and assemble grommet insert (4). 12. Connect washer lead connector to wiper motor terminal, assemble washer pump assembly (10), terminal (11) and four self-tapping screws (12). Re-locate self-tapping screws carefully in existing threads to avoid stripping and tighten screws to a torque loading of 20-25 lbs. ins. DISASSEMBLY WASHER PUMP 1. Remove the four screws (11) attaching valve cover, remove valve cover (7), valve seal (9), valve seat (8), suction cap (3), trim cup (5) and plunger (4). 2. Remove solenoid assembly (2), with cover from housing assembly ( 1), dismantle plunger and lever assembly (12) and solenoid cover (6). 3. Remove bush (13) and spring (14).
INSPECTING AND TESTING DISASSEMBLED WASHER PUMP 1. Check operation of non-returned valves in valve assembly. 2. Check suction cap for damage or cracks or deterioration. 3. Examine trim cap, solenoid lever and plunger for damage or wear. 4. Check solenoid windings for continuity or short circuit. 5. Examine housing bush for damage and excessive wear. 6. Check compression spring for damage. 7. Examine washer housmg and latch for cracks and distortion, examine timing gear for worn or damaged teeth. Note: Timing gear should rotate only when latch is retracted. ASSEMBLY OF WASHER PUMP 1. Apply No. 2 cup grease to latch mechanism (1). 2. Install spring (14) and guide bush (13) to housing. 3. Install plunger and lever assembly (12) to solenoid assembly (2). 4. Install solenoid to housing taking care that lever engages with slot in latch. Ensure that solenoid is located in receiving slot in housing and solenoid wire is correctly positioned in housing assembly. 5. Install trim cup (5) and plunger (4) to suction cap (3). 6. Install solenoid cover (6) to snap fit over location pin. 7. Install suction cap assembly and ensure that plunger is located in guide bush. 8. Install valve seat assembly (8, 10) and valve seal (4). 9. Install valve cover (7) and secure with four screws (11) tighten to a torque loading of 10-15lbs. ins.
TESTING THE ASSEMBLED MOTOR
1. Obtain a switch assembly ARC9DF.17A553-A, a 12 volt automotive battery and an 0 to 10 amperes Ammeter. 2. Connect the Negative terminal of the battery to the motor earthing terminal (11) and the 'E' terminal of the switch ass~mbly. 3. The terminal block assembly has four terminal blades and the moulding has four identification numbers 1 to 4 respectively. The switch assembly moulding also carries identification numbers.
4.
(i) Connect motor terminal No. 1 to switch terminal No.1. (ii) Connect motor terminal No. 2 to switch terminal No.2. (iii) Connect motor terminal No. 3 to POSITIVE battery terminal. (iv) Connect motor terminal No. 4 to switch terminal No.4. (v) Connect washer pump terminal to switch terminal 'W'.. 5. Operate switch assembly and check for LOW speed and HIGH speed operation. Switch to park position two or three times and check that the motor crank assembly stops with a positive action in the same pcsition. 6. Switch motor to low speed and back-off the adjusting screw in the gear housing at the end of the armature shaft. Adjust end play of the armature by tightening the screw until an ammeter in series shows a slight rise in current. Back-off slightly until the current is just normal, apply 'LOCTITE-GRADE CV' to the screw to prevent unlocking. 7. Check the current consumption after running the motor for 30 minutes. The consumption should be 2 . 5 amperes maximum at 13. 5 volt and the output speed 40 rpm LOW and 65 rpm HIGH. 8. Energising the solenoid of the washer pump, the current consumption should not exceed 2 amperes over the motor consumption during the energising period at 13 . 5 volts ± 0 . I. Washer should complete four discharge cycles per one revolution of the wiper motor output gear and 12-16 discharge cycles for one wash cycle. LUCAS DISASSEMBLY - PERMANENT MAGNET TYPE WIPER/WASHER MOTOR 1. Remove the fixing nut, motor crank assembly and flat washer. CAUTION: The moulded gearwheel inside the gearbox must be prevented from moving while the crank assembly fixing nut is slackened (or tightened on re-assembly). This is most easily achieved by securing the crank in a vice while the nut is turned. 2. Remove the three screws attaching the washer unit to the motor. To completely detach the washer unit from the motor it will be necessary
PART 15-4- INSTRUMENTS to unsolder the washer unit solenoid lead. 3. Withdraw the shaft and gear being careful not to lose the dished washer fitted beneath the gearwheel. 4. Unscrew and remove the two fixing bolts from the motor yoke and carefully remove the yoke assembly and armature. INSPECTING AND TESTING THE DISASSEMBLED MOTOR 1. BRUSHES The original specified length of the brushes is sufficient to last the life of the motor. If due to accidental damage to the brushes, or faulty commutator action, it becomes necessary to renew the brushes, the complete brush gear and body assembly must be replaced. The brush gear assembly must be renewed if the main (diametrically opposed) brushes are worn to -k •, or if the narrow section of the third brush is worn to the full width of the brush. Check that the brushes move freely in the boxes. (2) CHECKING BRUSH SPRINGS The design of the brushgear does not allow for easy removal of the brush springs. This is due to the fact that, similar to the brushes, the springs are expected to last the life of the motor and should not normally require renewing. In the unlikely eveDJ: of the spring pressure failing to meet the specified requirements, the complete brushgear service-assembly must be renewed, in a similar manner to that necessary for servicing the brushes. To check the spring pressure press on the end face of the brush with a push-type spring gauge (see Fig. 6) until the bottom of the brush is level with the bottom of the slot in the brush box, when the spring pressure reading should be 5-7 ozf. Note: In the event of the brushgear being renewed, it is important to re-connect and position the cables in accordance with Fig. 25
1 Negative brush cable 2 Third brush cable 3 Positive brush cable
FIG. 25- Checking brush spring pressure.
Mterwards, clear the inter-segment spaces of copper swarf. (4) INSPECTION OF MOULDED GEAR Examine the gearwheel, especially the teeth, for signs of wear or damage. If the gearwheel needs renewing, a shaft-and-gear service replacement assembly will have to be fitted. (5) BEARINGS All bearings are self-lubricating and require no attention for the life of the motor. The bearings are not a serviced item and if for any reason replacement is required the body and/ or yoke assemblies must be renewed. ASSEMBLY This is generally a reversal of the dismantling procedure detailed in (b) but special consideration should be given to ..he following: 1.
A liberal quantity of Shell Alvania No. 2 grease is necessary for lubricating the gearwheel teeth, the gear wheel cam and the worm gear on the armature shaft. The total quantity of grease must not be less than 15 cc.
ISW
(3) TESTING AND SERVICING THE ARMATURE
Use armature testing equipment to check the armature windings for open and short circuits. Test the soundness of the armature insulation by using a mains test lamp (Fig. 7). Lighting of the lamp indicates faulty insulation. If the commutator is worn, it can be lightly skimmed while the armature is mounted in a lathe.
15-21
IIOV........_.
FIG. 26- Armature insulation Test.
2. Armature end-float is 0.008" (0.05-0.2 mm).
0. 002-
To obtain a satisfactory end-float adjustment with the motor and gearbox completely assembled, position the unit with the thrust screw uppermost, tighten the thrust screw until abutment takes place and then slacken it off one quarter turn and secure it in this position by tightening the locknut. The yoke fixing bolts should be tightened to a torque of 25 lbs. in. If a service replacement armature is being fitted, it is advisable to fint slacken the armature end-float thrust screw before tightening the yoke fixing bolts. Mterwards, reset the thrust screw.
3 Before fitting the motor crank assembly to the gear wheel shaft, plug in the vehicle wiring and operate the wiper switch to set the motor in the park position. Fit the crank to the shaft in the position indicated on the wiper body.
15-22
GROUP 15· LIGHTING
WASHER PUMP TO DISMANTLE 1. Remove three screws fixing pump to wiper motor. 2. Slip off white plastic cover. 3. Push cam follower towards bulb then slide solenoid assembly out of housing. 4. Disengage large tension spring from cam follower. 5. Lift cam follower and pawl assembly from locking pin and remove pawl from cam follower by easing out of the locking hole. 6. Remove retainer clip and spring from timing wheel. 7. Disengage tension springs on latch and tension spring from seconcary lever.
SYSTEM, HORNS AND INSTRUMENTS
8. Prise secondary lever upwards to disengage from rubber bulb. 9. Lift latch and timing gear in one movement. 10. Lift locking wheel from pin. 11. Remove four screws from valve assembly and remove assembly. 12. Remove rubber bulb upwards from housing. TO ASSEMBLE 1. Replace rubber bulb in housing; insert spring into bulb and screw on valve assembly. 2. Replace locking wheel over pin. 3. Stand timing wheel on pin; stand latch on pin and replace both in one movement (ensure timing wheel meets with top section of
locking wheel). 4. Replace small tension spring on latch; replace spring and retainer clip to secure timing wheel. 5. Slide secondary lever over the moulded section of rubber bulb and moulded pin on lever. Replace spring on lever. 6. Replace cam follower over pin ensuring that pawl is engaged in timing wheel. Replace large tension spring on cam follower. 7. Push cam follower towards bulb and slide solenoid into housing ensuring that black lead is facing upwards. 8. Replace white plastic cover and attach pump to wiper motor ensuring that cam follower engages with cam.
15-23
PART
SPECIFICATIONS
15-5
CIRCUIT PROTECTION Location
Function Dome Courtesy
Fuse Panel
Tail, Pork.License
Fuse Panel
Stop Light
Fuse Panel Fuse Panel
Radio Heater
Fuse Panel Fuse Panel
Cigar Lighter
Fuse Panel
6
Windshield Wiper and Back Up Lamps Light-Instrument Panel
Fuse Panel Fuse Panel
2 4 6 6
Fuse Panel Fuse Panel
Light-Luggage Compartment
7 4 2
I
Fuse Panel Fuse Panel
8 8 Circuit Breaker 9
Light-Glove Box Light~Headlights
Horns
Fuse Panel
BULB CHART
3
8Amp 8Amp 16Amp 8Amp 8Amp 16Amp 8Amp 8Amp 8Amp 8Amp 8Amp 8Amp 8Amp 22Amp 8Amp
BULB CHART (Continued) Wattage
Unit
Wattage
Unit
50/75
Headlight
ALL MODELS Front Turn Signal
21
Parking
6 21
Rear Turn Signal and Stop / Tail License Plate
6
Lights
(Stat.
21 Wagon)
21
Luggage Compartment
10
Cargo Light (Wagon)
10
Dome Light
10
Warning Light Oil and Alternotor
2.2
Brake Warning Light Radio Dial Turn Signal (Ins. Panel)
2.2 2.0 2.2 2.2 2.2
Instruments Jllluminationl Heater Control
6/ 21
.Sack Up Lights (Sedan) Up
8 6
Turn Signals
Light-PRNDL Dial
Back
Rating Time
Hi Beam Indicator
2.2
Speedometer Glove Compartment
2.2 5.0
Courtesy Light Fairmont
15
Front and Rear Door Automatic Transmission Control
2.2
HORN
I
Horn current draw at 12V
HEATER MOTOR CURRENT DRAW 4-5 Amps At low speed At high speed
INSTRUMENTS Fuel and Temperature Gauges Average voltoge at terminals
SPEEDOMETER CABLE 5 Volts !Mounting Clip Bolt Torque
TURN INDICATOR
I
Current draw at 12V
4.5 Amperes ot 12V 5.6 Amperes at 12V
0.4 Amps
I
3~1
Ft.
Lbs.l
15-24
GROUP 15- LIGHTING SYSTEM, HORNS AND INSTRUMENTS
WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTORS PRES LITE CURRENT CONSUMPTION (HOT) OUTPUT SPEED (HOT)
2.5 Amp maximum at 13.5 V. HIGH LOW
65 R.P.M. 40 R.P.M.
LUCAS CURRENT CONSUMPTION (after 60 seconds from cold) Light running (linkage disconnected) Output Speed (light running)
Two Speed 1-1.8 amps at 12 V. (Low) 2-2.6 amps at 12 V. (High) 35-40 R.P.M. (Low) 56-66 R.P.M . (High)
SPEEDO GEAR COMBINATIONS Axle Ratio
Tyre Size
No. Of Teeth Driving Gear
No. Of Teeth Driven Gear
Colour
B.W. Manual & Auto
3.23:1
6.95 X 14 7.35 X 14 7.75 X 14 ER70 x 14 185 X 14
(8) (8) (8) (8) (8)
(21) (21) (20) (21) (21)
(it. Green) (Lt. Green) (Brown) (Lt. Green) (Lt. Green)
B.W. Manual & Auto
3.50:1
6.95 X 14 7.3 5 X 14 7.75x14 ER70 x 14 18"5x14
(8) (8) (8) (8) (8)
(23) (22) (22) (23) (23)
(Black) (Grey) (Grey) (Black) (Black),
8 Cyl. 6 Cyl. B.W. 302 CI.D.[ Manual
2.92 :1
6.95 X 14 7.35 X 14 7.75 X 14 ER70x14 185 X 14
(8) (8) (8) (8) (8)
(19) (19) (18) (19) (19)
(Pink) (Pink) (Purple) (Pink) (Pink)
6 Cyl .
3.23 :1
6.95 7.35 7.75 ER70 185
14 14 14 14 14
7 7 7 7 7
18 18 18 18 18
Green Green Green Green Green
Engine
Transmission
6 Cyl.
6 Cyl.
U.S. 4 Speed RUG-D
X X X X X
U.S. 4 Speed RUG-D
2.92 :1
6.95 X 14 7.35 X 14 7.75 X 14 ER70 x 14 1 85 X 14
7 7 7 7 7
17 1 6, 16 17 17
Purple Orange Orange Orange Purple
8 Cyl. 302 CI.D.
US. C4 Auto
2.92 :1 .
6.95 X 14 7.35 X 14 7.75 X 14 ER70 x 14 185 X 14
8 8 8 8 8
i9 19 18 19 19
Tan Tan Grey Tan Tan
8 Cyl 351-2V
U S 4 Speed RUG-D
3.0 1
7.35 X 7.75 X 1 85 X ER70 x
14 14 14 14
7 7 7 7
17 16 17 17
Purple Orange Purple Purple
8 Cyl. 351 - 4V
U.S . 4 Speed RUG-AS
3.50 1
ER70
X
14
6
17
Purple
8 Cyl. 35 1 -2V
U .S. C4 Auto
2.75 :1
6.95 7.35 185 ER70 7.75
X
X
14 14 14 14 14
8 8 8 8 8
18 18 18 18 17
Grey Grey Grey Grey Natural
6.95 X 7.35 X 185 X ER70 x
14 14 14 14
8 8 8 8
18 18 18 18
Grey Grey Grey Grey
8 Cyl. 302 C.I.D.
8 Cyl. 351-4V
I
U.S. FMX Auto
2.75 :1
X X X
FALCON FAIRLANE w~:~~~~P
VENTILATION, HEATING, ACCESSORIES
GROUP 16
PAGE
PART 16-1-
Ventilating and Heating
16-2
PART 16-2-
Air Conditioning
16-7
PART 16-3-
Radio-Stereo Tape Player
16-26
16-2
PART 16·1
VENTILATING AND HEATING Page
Section 1
2
Section
Description and Operation
16-2
Control Adjustments
Ventilating System
16-2
Blower Motor Electrical Circuit
16- 5
Heating System
16-2
Heater Hose Routing
16-5
Diagnosis and Testing
16 -3
Heater Hose Replacement
16-5
Ventilating and Heating Trouble Diagnosis
0
16- 5
Bleeding Air From Heater Core
16-5
16-3
Removal and Installation
16-6
Loose Motor Fan Test
16-5
Heater -
Assembly Removal
16-6
Blower Switch Test
16-6
Heater -
Asembly Installation
16-6
Plugged Heater Core Test
16-5
Common Adjustments and Repairs
16-5
Ventilating System
16-5
Heating System
16-5
Guid~
3
Pare
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
VENTILATING SYSTEM Two ventilating air outlet ducts are located under and at each end of the instrument panel; both ducts are open to the cowl air inlet plenum chamber. Two manually operated flap valves are located within the air ducts. The flap valves are opened, to allow the entry of fresh air into the passenger compartment, by pulling the respective left or right hand knobs on the instrument panel (Fig. 1). Pull knob half way out for floor level or full out for face level.
HEATING SYSTEM The heater is a blown system connected to an opening in the left hand air duct. The entire heater assembly is located under the instrument panel, and it is necessary to remove the heater assembly to ser-
vice major components of the heater. Outside air is drawn into the vehicle from the cowl inlet through the left-hand air duct into the heater housing and through the heater core and then discharged through outlets in the distribution box or windscreen demister outlets (Fig. 2).
AIR AND TEMPERATU1tE CONTROL The control assembly is located on the dash panel in the instrument cluster assembly. It contains two horizontal slide levers and a blower switch (Fig. 2). The upper lever is used for controlling mode position. The lower lever is used for controlling air temperature. The three-position switch controls the two-speed motor and fan. The air temperature is varied by a temperature control door which blends hot and cold air. A tap in the engine compartment cuts off water in the cold position. As the temperature control lever is moved- from the cold to hot position, a Bowden cable operates the temperature control door to mix hot and cold air through the heater.
The air is then discharged into the distribution chamber. A distribution flap valve is located within the chamber to control the discharge of air between the interior and the screen and to close off all air in the off position. The 1apper control lever actuates a Bowden cable connected to the flap valve in the distribution chamber. Air is directed as required through the interior air outlets or through the demist outlets below the windscreen. The air flow distribution can thus be modulated by setting the control lever in any position between "interior" position and the "off" position, varying the volume of air erttering through the interior outlets. All air flow is cut off with the control lever in the "off" position. A single demist nozzle directs the air to two slots in upper dash panel below the windscreen. Two speeds are provided for the blower with a 3 position switch in the control assembly. A resistor located in the motor circuit controls the "lo" speed. The amount of heating can be varied by the two
16-3
PART 16-1- VENTILATING SYSTEM AND HEATER
II ii
.I I
~'
~lll.tM~VM ~•
..
t
_/
I
IDfr.AU.c::.t.II.Ll ;!OICAI»UUJ1CD.JD 7HIITWICN11Ji#' IAUC U 17.LI..Y CI.DMO o'CM:8 t:W N5T IWtiA .)1U . - , NIPIIIO• r•cL JIJN4It04 .
Mil.'
..,r ..
/ilat:HIP' ··
CJ10"
.C..C
nt:r""'l.
t
-------- FIG. 1 - Fresh Air Ventilation. blower speeds. HEATING AND DEMISTING
For maximum effect : 1. The left hand air duct must be fully closed. 2. The temperature control lever moved to the "HOT" position. 3. The fan switched to the "HI" position. The distribution lever may
EJ
be moved to either the "FLOOR" or "SCREEN" positions, intermediate positions may be selected to give combined effects. COOL AIR VENTILATION
With the temperature control in the cold position, the unit will function as a ventilation system,
directing the air flow to the interior or screen as required. MIXED VENTILATION
Should it be desirable, with the right and left hand air vents full open, cool air may be admitted to face level with warm air being directed to the screen or to the interior or both, by normal operation of the heater.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
VENTILATING AND HEATING TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS GUIDE
INSUFFICIENT OR NO HEAT
1. Burned out fuse or loose wires to the heater blower. 2. Defective ground, or defective blower motor. 3. Fan loose on motor shaft, or motor stalled. 4. Defective heater blower switch. 5. A kinked, clogged, or collapsed water hose.
INSUFFICIENT OR NO DEMISTING
1. Improperly adjusted demister control cable. 2. Plugged or loose defroster nozzle obstructed demister openings at windshield.
TOO MUCH HEAT
I. Incorrectly adjusted temperature control door.
6. Improperly connected heater hoses. 7. Plugged heater core, or a1r outlet. 8. Improperly installed or defective engine thermostat. 9. Incorrectly installed and adjusted control cables. 10. Air leaks in the body.
CO..CR H£.14T£A MOTOR. DASH PANCL OPENING.
\
I
\
-.APPLY £58 M4G.3.Z · A I
/
.sCAt.CR 8£Tw££N cor£R f OA Sh PAN£ L TO liOAM ... WAT£A Tlc.H T AND OUST PAIXJF" .S£AL.
ltiOZllL
A~Y
DEFR05TER
a--
---""'" Cltlfl.JU MDNT o;r IS =<1~<'1'
/'hzui
i::~u":~ ~~
"'
f'tbo/J 1'6 ~NII'IIIt#.
,~·
.\
\ "-...
...
COOITIIll '"::oNHfrTIVN NlJi.TCR
V'I(»'Y
FIG. 2- Heater Installation
~.)'1"
""'-J
I
m
)>
:::!
z
G)
PART 16-1- VENTILATING SYSTEM AND HEATER TESTING The following tests may be made on the heater: Burned out fuses, loose wire connections, defective wires, collapsed hoses and air leaks in the body may be determined by visual inspection of the parts.
LOOSE MOTOR FAN TEST Turn on the heater switch, and
EJ
listen for the sound of the motor. If only a hum is heard, the fan is loose on the motor shaft.
BLOWER SWITCH TEST Substitute a known good blower switch for the suspected switch. PLUGGED HEATER CORE TEST Start the engine and temporarily
16-5
remove the outlet hose from the heater core (the hose may be detached from heater in engine compartment). Very little or no flow of water from the core outlet indicates that the core is plugged. Make certain the water is being supplied to the core inlet: i.e. the control lever is set at HOT.
COMMON ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
VENTILATING SYSTEM Bowden cable operated vents and air inlets are adjusted so that the vents are tightly closed when the control knobs are approx. 1/16" from being pushed all the way in. Loosen the Bowden cable retaining screw at the vent control arm, move the cable housing back and forth until the vent is closed when the knob is -ft to k inch from the in position, then tighten the retaining screw.
16 AMP. FUSE BROWN +WHITE
GREEN+ RED
IGNITION SWITCH
~----------------------------------------~~
HEATER
HEATER MOTOR
SWITCH~-~ RED
BLOWER MOTOR ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT For the blower motor circuit wiring diagram refer to figure 3. HEATER HOSE ROUTING Care must be taken when servicing the hoses to insure a smooth kink free installation for maximum heating. HEATER HOSE REPLACEMENT To replace a heater hose, drain the coolant, remove the hose, cut a new hose to the same length as the old hose, install the hose, and replace the coolant. Make certain that the heater hoses do not come in contact with any part of the exhaust system. After the coolant has been replaced, bleed the air from the heater core. BLEEDING AIR FROM HEATER CORE Remove the hose at the outlet connection of the heater core (hose that leads to the water pump). Allow any trapped air to flow out. When a continuous flow of coolant is obtained, connect the hose to the core.
YELLOW
FIG. 3-Heater Motor Circuit HEATER SYSTEM
5. Refit the control cable retaining clip. 6. Check the leyer travel.
CONTROL ADJUSTMENTS TEMPERATURE To assure maximum temperature the following temperature control adjustments should be made.
1. Loosen the temperature control cable retaining clip (at the heater end of the cable). 2. Move the control lever (upper) hard left against the internal stop (cold position). 3. Move the lever to the right off the stop.
-ft"
4. Fully close the temperature control door.
HEAT AND DEMIST (Fig. 2) 1. Loosen the distribution control cable retaining clip (at the heater end of the cable). 2. Move the distribution control lever (lower) hard left against the internal stop (off position). 3. Move the lever to the right -ft • off the stop. 4. Hold the distribution valve crank (right hand side of distribution box) in the fully closed position. 5. Refit the control cable retaining clip. 6. Check the lever travel.
GROUP 16- VENTILATING AND HEATING
16-6
EJ
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
HEATER ASSEMBLY REMOVAL
1. Drain the Cooling System. 2. Remove the glove box. 3. Disconnect the temperature/ mode and left hand air duct control cables. 4. Remove the hoses from the heater pipes in engine compartment. 5. Disconnect the wiring plug at the heater assembly. 6. Remove the left hand air duct and the demist nozzle retaining clips. 7. Disconnect the feed wire at the top of the heater above the fan . 8. Remove the 4 heater assembly retaining nuts from the dash panel (engine compartment). 9. Remove the heater assembly from the dash panel.
HEATER ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION
10. Check the operation of the heater.
1. Mount the heater assembly to Pasten the the dash panel, heater in place with the 4 nuts, spring anq flat washers. 2. Connect the air vent and temperature control cables 3. Adjust the control cables and install the glove box. 4. Replace the left hand air duct and cable. 5. Connect the wiring plug and feed wire. 6. Refit demist nozzle clips. 7. Connect water hoses. 8. Fill the cooling system. 9. Bleed the system.
HEATER CONTROL ASSEMBLY REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the wiring plug at the heater. 2. Disconnect the cables from the water valve and heater. 3. Remove the instrument cluster housing. 4. Remove the control assembly which is retained by two screws.
INSTALLATION Installation is the reverse of removal. For adjustments refer to Section 3.
-WI.TCR IIALVC CAlLI
(All)
-
\ CONNECT .S'WI".U WfiUNt; PLvtiO 10 14CIIT£R
A'"~ro.t
FIG. 4- Heater Control.
16-7
PART 16-2
AIR CONDITIONING
Description and Operation Diagnosis and Testing ... . .. Controls position and operation Sight glass ... ... ... Magnetic clutch test Receiver dryer test Compressor seal leak test Refrigerant leaks Compressor oil level check ... Safety Precautions ... ...
2
D
16- 7 16- 9 16-11 16-15 16-15 16-15 16-15 16-18 16-18 16-19
3
4
Adjustments ... ... ... Discharging the system Evacuation ... Recharging .. . . .. .. . . .. Major Repairs ... ... ... Removal & installation ... Compressor Clutch bearing .. .. . . .. Specifications ... ... ... Operating instructions ...
16-20 16-20 16-20 16-20 16-22 16-22 16-22 16-24 16-25 16-25
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION This zone ranges in temperature from 70 to 9Q•F and in relative humidity from 30% to 70% . Outside conditions determine the actual recommended inside conditions.
DESCRIPTION
The Air Conditioning System is a combined heater-cooler unit located in the forward part of the automobile. Functionally, the unit is a normal mechanical refrigeration system, combining the primary components of a compressor, condenser receiver, expansion valve and evaporator. In addition, a magnetic clutch belt driven from the engine crank, is used for the compressor drive. Basically, the capacity of any air conditioning system, be it in a building or in a car, should be such that inside conditions are maintained within the normal "comfort zone" CAPILLARY
The heater unit is functionally the same as described in Part 16-1. OPERATION (a)
REFRIGERANTCYCLE
The refrigerant cycle is as follows: Low pressure, low temperature gas from the evaporator enters the compressor at the suction valve. In the compressor the gas is raised to a high temperature and pressure. Superheat is added to the gas due to heat of
compression and mechanical heat. From the compresf,or, the gas enters the condensor where the superheat is first removed and the charge is condensed to the liquid state (still at high pressure) . Leaving the condensor, the high pressure liquid passes to the receiver then to the expansion valve. At this point, the throttling action of the expansion valve reduces the liquid to a low temperature and pressure where it enters the evaporator.
In the evaporator, the liquid boils until the charge is entirely vapourised , then returns to the compressor.
TUBE
EXPANSION VALVE
COMPRESSOR
CONDENSER •
HIGH. PRESSURE LIQUID
tal
LOW . PRESSURE LIQUID
•
HIGH. PRESSURE VAPOR
f/lA
LOW. PRESSURE VAPOR
FIG. 1. Refrigerant Cycle
16-8
GROUP 16- VENTILATING AND HEATING
PR¥JIJ 7fJ T!(,I/(EA/11'116 l-tJ6N
An/IM,I-/INI/1'~ IYU I ~
lt.(.r r
1. -MARV
£NSIJQC. ( ..A ,f'J:T A(,41NST
(b) SYSTEM CAPACITY Design of the components of the system is such as to provide a capacity potential comparable to any unit presently marketed. Rated capacity of
the compressor is 3! tons at 4,000 R.P.M. Note that one ton of refrigeration is equivalent to the cooling effect of melting 2,000 lbs of ice in 24 hours.
ro :L"AA.i..
£ ~~..,if /l.~·~y
FIG. 2- Installation.
valve. As a suction is created in the evaporator coil by the action of the compressor, it allows the refrigerant entering the coils from the expansion valve to expand and boil. This causes an evaporative effect lowering the temperature in the evaporator coil. As the warm air is blown across the coils, it is cooled to a comfortable level.
(b) EXPANSION VALVE (a)
EVAPORATORASSEMBLY
For the "front end" unit, the evaporator assembly contains the evaporating or cooling coil, blower, motor, and controls. This assembly is located below the instrument panel in the front compartment. Cooled air is discharged into the cabin through adjustable louvres. The evaporator coil is of fin and tube construction and is made complete with inlet and outlet manifolding. Male fitting s (expansion valve inlet and evaporator outlet) extend through the dash panel for connection to the expansion valve in the engine compartment. Refrigerant is sprayed into the evaporator coil from the expansion
The expansion valve is a pressure reducing control which regulates refrigerant flow to the evaporator. High pressure freon enters the valve in the liquid state and leaves as a low pressure spray, being approximately 75% liquid by weight but 25% liquid by volume. Its action is analogous to the cor:1mon garden hose nozzles where the hose line is "solid" with water, but a fine spray is emitted from the nozzle. The expansion valve also senses suction temperature, thereby actuating the valve. With rise in suction line temperature the charge in the bulb expands exerting pressure on the valve, forcing it to open and allow more refrigerant
to flow. With reduced temperature the charge contracts, relieving pressure to the valve diaphragm subseq· uently causing orifice ir. valve to close. (c) COMPRESSOR Fig. 24 The compressor is a -reciprocating twin-cylinder type driven through a magnetic clutch, which is belt driven by a special pulley on the engine crankshaft. Belt tension is obtained by positioning of an adjustable idler pulley. The fuction of the compressor is to raise the low temperature. low pressure gas entering from the eva· porator (suction side) to a high temperature high pressure gas which is pumped to the condensor (discharge side). In this compression process, temperature of the discharge gas is raised above that of the condensor air supply (atmospheric temperature) , thereby dissipating heat removed from the car interior. The compressor is equipped with two service valves. One is defined as "discharge" and the other "suction". Both are of the "back seat" type used for service checks. With valve stem
PART 16-2- AIR CONDITIONING full out (counter clockwise) the gauge adaptor fitting is closed, allowing the cap to be removed and line to be attached. Turning the stem (clockwise) opens the gauge port. To shut the valve off to or from the compressor, the stems must be full in (clock wise) . On compressors equipped with Dill core valve ports, the compressor can be shut-off from the system by clamping off the suction and discharge hoses.
The compressor mounts horizontally to the left (8 cyl.) and 250 2V to right. 250 1V compressor is mounted vertically on the right. (d) MAGNETIC CLUTCH Fig. 24 The compressor drive clutch allows the system to be "on" or "off" as desired and also provides positive temperature control when combined with a thermostatic switch. The basic parts of the clutch are the field drive assembly. (F ield coil, bearing, slip ring and pulley), clutch plate assembly and brush bracket assembly. The magnetic clutch is employed also to allow the compressor pulley to free wheel when the air conditioner is not being used, therefore, the compressor is not operating needlessly. Therefore, during the winter or off season it is not necessary to remove the belt from the compressor pulley.
EJ
The compressor clutch has a ballbearing which is pressed into the field coil assembly and located with a snap ring. The clutch plate assembly is pressed into the bearing and held by a snap ring, and the hub is then secured to the tapered compressor shaft with a locking bolt. This permits the clutch pulley to free wheel when the field coil is not energised. When the evaporator air and temperature switches are turned on, current is allowed to flow to the field coil energising the electro-magnet; this causes the clutch plate to be held in contact with the field coil and compressor pulley, thus the compres·sor is being driven through the clutch plate. In the off position of the evaporator air switch the electro-magnet is not energised and the clutch plate does not contact the field coil assembly and therefore does not drive the compressor. (e) CONDENSOR Like the evaporator, the condensor is of fin and tube construction. Discharge gas from the compressor is pumped to the condensor, mounted ahead of the car radiator. Air passing over the condensor first removes the heat of compression from the gas, then condenses it to a liquid state. Temperature of the air through the
16-9 condensor must be lower than the saturation temperature of the discharge gas. Air temperature and quantity determine the condensing temperature and pressure. The top fitting of the condensor is to be used as the inlet fitting from the compressor. The lower fitting is for the liquid line returning freon to the receiver. Servicing the condensor coil consists mainly of removing bugs, dirt and other foreign matter would tend to restrict airflow across the condensor. (f) RECEIVER-DRIER-SIGHT GLASS The receiver is a cylindrical housing incorporating inlet and outlet ports filters, drier and sight-glass. It functions as a reservoir for the liquid refrigerant from the condensor providing sufficient charge for all variations of weather. The drier serves as a moisture trap and filters minute substances which may travel through the refrigerant circuit. The sight glass aids in determining whether system is fully charged or not. In fully charged systems the sight glass will appear clear and when undercharged it will continue bubbling or frothing when the system is operated.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
GAUGES INDICATE LOW HEAD PRESSURE: 1. Defective compressor valves. Replace valve plate. 2. Blown or defective gasket. Replace gaskets. GAUGES INDICATE LOW SUCTION PRESSURE: 1. Insufficient refrigerant. If bubbles or frothing are apparent in sight glass, add freon until condition is corrected. 2. Restriction at drier or in lines usually indicated by frosting at point of restriction or lines being cool on side of restriction away from compressor. Replace faulty part or remove restriction. 3. Expansion valve faulty . 6. Moisture freezing in expansion valve. Expansion valve and manifolding will be frosted while coil tubes will show little or no frost. Install new drier, evacuate system and recharge. 7. Sticking of expansion valve caused
by corrosion. 8. Clogged drier indicated by frost forming on drier. 9. Low air supply to evaporator. GAUGES INDICATE HIGH SUCTION PRESSURE: 1. Expansion valve faulty .
2. Leaking or broken compressor valves. Repair or replace valves with valve kit. 3. Compressor drive belt slipping. Adjust for proper tension. 4. Magnetic clutch slipping. Check electrical circuit for proper voltage to clutch. 5. Expansion valve not closing. Evaporator coil flooding, causing suction line to frost. 6. Suction service valve strainer clogged. Remove, clean and replace. OVERHEATING OF ENGINE: 1. Loose Fan Belt. 2. Collapsing or obstructed radiator
hoses. 3. Faulty pressure cap on radiator. 4. Radiator plugged or exceedingly dirty. 5. Inoperative thermostat- replace. 6. Bugs or dirt clogging fins of condenser or radiator- clean off. 7. Excess freon charge- purge overcharge. COMPRESSOR DRIVE BELT TROUBLES:
1. Tension of drive belt - tension new belts at 100-140 lbs. and belts that are worn in at 90-110 lbs. 2. Drive belt slipping but correctly tensioned. Caused by overcharge of refrigerant, obstruction to cooling by condenser or air in system resulting in high head pressures. 3. Belt life affected by incorrect pulley alignment, broken or buckled pulleys, or excessive oil on belt or fracture of cords due to forcing belt in place.
-0I \
0 1972 FALCON· FAIRLANE .4/C·HEATER CONTROL SETTING
"
Fl-"4CTIONAL CONTROL LEVER POSITION
A/C ~C~NI
Sou«~
R
v
0 0
~
Nil
v
··-
WIAT POSITION HI/
V · .,..
~~~ - lfOI
c:w......
OH
£wiTcH
SU VACUUM OIA6MM
-·· .. ·H
SWITCH
WATIUI
~-UUT' /lc::lollt VAC.Uu.Jof MD1bC.
NV
v
NV
II&.Ow••
1
V~YC..
on
v
C.ANDITICIIII
-
£WtTc.H a'i·PM.S•D &Y S&L5,TOC CMic.utT
NV
A
T L
R
v '-
A
v I
-$105
COOL
C"LMW
II
OIDI
NV
8LU5
-w ....
.,_
-r.......
-
MIO- IbM,_, IIN'fl~ • - I/IDINIM ~ - Dl'ltcc r NAU ~ __:::_ l ltCUUM MOmiC.
-~ lVAA::I!tA Tol
OU t'PbE- l!rcJI!£ ~\f.otC/'JitDTOI/l
&I
MOO
L. H
Duc. r.A«Jf COLoo,.olt'l ,
ALAe..- •
.SP'ItiMS ON ~ AU 6LACX '7LIM
'TtA ~
VAUJuM
souec.t.
FIG. 3- Control Setting Chart and Vacuum Source Schematic
L.·LOW AU!'
~- - II • WI~
"""'-
a~,
CJ.OUO
MOD
DOOil
I
C-1.
COOL
SIUC.To• sw"""' Ctec.utT ~$ WATC• VA'--"a 8Y G.&.OSIH.
ccu:a ... ~"""'""
HD.,..· CA:Hl&.
=::H==._ ,...., .......... Ttta.
...aD
ALL COLO Al8 ""'"U
OUTSIDC AI. AY' · --Ilft
fiMTM
~·
- ...,...,
OUTCtCIIC AfA Mil ~·u C. ~0
~a.tTa•
OuTJtOC AHI
HUT••
CO&&
-..n"
'TWN
co•c.
-------
II- VAC.<.IUM N'tl"' NO VAC.UUM MOO · MOOUL.AT£0
CeNT-.
)>
z 0
NV
v AU.
~
z G)
W AAM
w
.." ~
~ACUUM
CLOSIO
sc z
C#P .. MM AI"
sw'"'"
MOO
Q
< m
0..-L.M ... H
CIH-Iilet.l
VIICUUM
£WITC.H
fTtON f~IT
OFF
F........ ..H
OPEN
COOL
SCREEN
OHN TO OUTSIH
Dll!f"05T
r- -I I
OI'EH TO Ra<:IRC.
A/C: POSITION
HEAT 'fLOOR
"'-'-
•
FLOOR
ONN TO OUTSIO. HV
HC:IAC.
14/C.
D
""'"
ONI4 TO
OUTSID£ RE.c.IRC.
I
~
FRESH
MAle'
,..
+',
HEAT
OFF
VA(.~
-
S&TT,.. CHMT
AIR · CONOIT ION IN& FALC.ON • FAIRLAN[.
:t:
E z
G)
PART 16-2- AIR CONDinONING
MODE ,_ OFF A/C & HEATER
16-11
---
A/C CLUTCH SWITCH OPEN COMPRESSOR NOT OPERATING
HOT WATER VALVE CLOSED
A/ C VENTS OUT
FRESH AIR IN
HEAT/AC DOOR VAC MOTOR
v
AIR IN DOOR MOTOR DEFROST RECIRC AIR
OUT
FLOOR HEAT OUT
IN NV FLOOR/DEFROST VAC MOTOR
OFF
FLOOR .... DEFROST
WARM
COOL
OFF V = VACUUM NV = NO VACUUM
FIG. 4 -Off A/C & Heater. MODE ,_ MAXIMUM AIR CONDITIONING (RECIRCULATING)
CLUTCH SWITCH CLOSED COMPRESSOR OPERATING
HOT WATER VALVE CLOSED
A/C VENTS OUT
FRESH AIR IN
i
HEAT/AC DOOR VAC MOTOR
v
AIR IN DOOR MOTOR
FLOOR HEAT OUT RECIRC AIR
IN NV FLOOR / DEFROST VAC MOTOR
!WfJ
MAX A/ C
FRESH
WARM
COOL FAN OFF V
o
VACUUM
NV = NO VACUUM
FIG. 5 - Maximum Air-conditioning (recirculating)
3 NOTE : A/C COMPRESSOR OPERATES ONLY WITH BLOWER ON
GROUP 16- VENTILATING AND HEATING
16-12
MODE : - FRESH AIR -
CONDITIONING
CLUTCH SWITCH CLOSED COMPRESSOR OPERATING
HOT WATER VALVE CLOSED
FRESH AIR IN
A/C VENTS OUT
J
HEAT/AC DOOR VAC MOTOR
v
AIR IN DOOR MOTOR DEFROST AECIAC AIR
FLOOR HEAT OUT
OUT
IN NV
IMPORTANT : FOR MAX COMFORT USE THIS SETTING FOR SHOAT PERIODS ONLY (5-10 MIN.) IN HIGH AMBIENT & HIGH HUMIDITY CONDITIONS
FLOOR/ DEFROST VAC MOTOR
FLOOR
I
DEFROST
WARM
COOL
3
OFF
NOTE : A/ C COMPRESSOR OPERATES ONLY WITH BLOWER ON
V = VACUUM NV = NO VACUUM
FIG. 6- Fresh Air-conditioning MODE :-
.1.
FRESH OR RECIRCULATING A/C SHOWING TEMPERATURE CONTROL
-~HOT WATER VALVE PART OPEN
___
,____
CLUTCH SWITCH CLOSED COMPRESSOR OPERATING
A/ C VENTS OUT
FRESH AIR IN
HEAT/AC DOOR VAC MOTOR
v
AIR IN DOOR MOTOR
FLOOR HEAT OUT NV FLOOR / DEFROST VAC MOTOR
ALT
I~
MAX A/ C
FRESH
WARM
COOL
OFF V = VACUUM NV = NO VACUUM
FIG.
NOTE : AIC COMPRESSOR OPERATES ONLY WITH BLOWER ON
7- Fresh or Recirculating A/C showing Temperature Control
16-13
PART 16-2 -AIR CONDITIONING MODE : - HEATER -
FLOOR/COOL
---
A/C CLUTCH SWITCH OPEN COMPRESSOR NOT OPERATING
HOT WATER VALVE FULLY OPEN
A/C VENTS bUT
FRESH AIR IN
HEAT/ AC DOOR VAC MOTOR AIR IN DOOR MOTOR DEFROST RECIRC AIR
FLOOR HEAT OUT
OUT
IN NV FLOOR/ DEFROST VAC MOTOR
r?M
I
FLOOR
I DEFROST
WARM
COOL
OFF V = VACUUM NV = NO VACUUM
FIG. 8- Heater- Floor- Cool. MODE :-
HEATER FLOOR -
MIDWARM
___........._ A/C CLUTCH SWITCH OPEN COMPRESSOR NOT OPERATING
HOT WATER VALVE FULLY OPEN
A/C VENTS OUT
FRESH AIR IN
HEAT/ AC DOOR VAC MOTOR AIR IN DOOR MOTOR FLOOR HEAT OUl
DEFROST RECIRC AIR
IN
~ FLOOR
OFF
NV = NO VACUUM
FIG. 9- Heater- Floor- Mid-warm.
I DEFROST
WARM
COOL
V = VACUUM
I
16-14
GROUP 16- VENTILATING AND HEATING
MODE:- HEATER -
FLOOR -
---
WARM
-~1,-
ili
A/C CLUTCH SWITCH OPEN COMPRESSOR NOT OPERATING
HOT WATER VALVE FULLY OPEN
FRESH AIR IN
A/C VENTS OUT
HEAT/AC DOOR VAC MOTOR AIR IN DOOR MOTOR FLOOR HEAT OUl RECIRC AIR
IN
FLOOR/DEFROST VAC MOTOR
FLOOR
I
DEFROST
WARM
COOL
OFF V = VACUUM NV = NO VACUUM
FIG.lO- Heater- Floor- Warm. MODE :-
HEATER -
MID POSITION FLOOR -
-~
1....-ili
HOT WATER VALVE FULLY OPEN
DEFROST
__..,..._ A/ C CLUTCH SWITCH OPEN COMPRESSOR NOT OPERATING
A/C VENTS OUT
FRESH AIR IN
HEAT/AC DOOR VAC MOTOR AIR IN DOOR MOTOR
RECIRC AIR
~"00' ~
IN
VON
;J. . ID
FLOOR/DEFROST VAC MOTOR
WARM
COOL
OFF V = VACUUM NV = NO VACUUM
FIG.ll- Heater- Mid-position- Defrost- Floor.
FLOOR HEAT OUl
PART 16-2 -AIR CONDinONING MODE : - HEATER -
16-15
FULL DEFROST
____......._ AIC CLUTCH SWITCH OPEN COMPRESSOR NOT OPERATING
HOT WATER VALVE FULLY OPEN
A / C VENTS OUT
FRESH AIR IN
HEAT/ AC DOOR VAC MOTOR AIR IN DOOR MOTOR FLOOR HEAT OUT RECIAC AIR
IN FULL V FLOOR/ DEFROST VAC MOTOR
FLOOR
I
OEFAOST
WARM
COOL
OFF
2
3
V .., VACUUM NV = NO VACUUM
FIG.12- Heater- Full defrost NOISY ENGINE COMPONENTS AND VIBRATIONS: 1. Brackets loose due to improper mounting, loose bolts, or broken support legs. 2. Missing or improperly applied braces. 3. Clutch retaining bolt loose. 4. Crankshaft pulley loose or incorrectly mounted. 5. Rough bearings in idler pulley or clutch. 6.. Compressor oil level below minimum. 7. Engine mounts in poor condition.
8. Drive belt tension below specifications. ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS: CLUTCH INOPERATIVE OR NOISY: 1. Blown fuse. 2. Loose connection or broken wire. 3. Shorted slip ring or field coil. 4. Worn brushes. 5. Defective bearing. 6. Defective thermostatic switch. BLOWER OR FAN MOTOR WILL NOT OPERATE OR OPERATES SLOW: 1. Blown fuse. 2. Wiring connections loose or wire broken. 3. Defective switch. 4. Motor shaft tight or bearings worn.
5. Fan misaligned. USE OF SIGHT GLASS
Clean the sight glass before checking for a proper charge of refrigerant. Then, observe the sight glass for bubbles with the engine running at 1500 rpm and the A/C controls set at maximum cooling. A continuous or large amount of bubbles in the sight glass indicate an undercharge of refrigerant . If an under-charge of refrigerant is found, check the system for leaks. Repair any leaks, evacuate the system with a good vacuum pump, and charge the system with the proper amount of Refrigerant-12 . No bubbles in the sight glass indicate either too much refrigerant or a complete loss of refrigerant. While observing the sight glass, cycle the magnetic clutch off and on, with the engine running at 1500 rpm. If refrigerant is in the system, bubbles will appear while the clutch is off and disappear when the clutch is on. If no bubbles appear during the on and off cycle of the magnetic clutch, there is no refrigerant in the system. If there is no refrigerant in the system, it will be necessary to leak test, repair as required, and · charge the system. Under conditions of extremely high temperatures, occasional foam or bubbles may appear in the sight glass.
RECEIVER- DRYER TEST
Operate the air conditioner for about five minutes; then, slowly move your hand across the length of the unit from one end to the other. There should be no noticeable difference in temperature. If cold spots are felt, it indicates that the unit is restricting the refrigerant flow , and the receiver-dryer must be replaced. MAGNETIC CLUTCH TEST
Disconnect the magnetic clutch wire at the bullet connector, and connect it to the negative lead of an ammeter. Connect the positive lead of the ammeter to the battery positive terminal. The magnetic clutch should pull in with a distinct click and the current reading on the ammeter. TWO-CYLINDER COMPRESSOR CRANKSHAFT SEAL LEAK TEST
Oil leak problems can be identified by observing the three possible leakage paths shown in Fig.l5 Oil Leakage Past Carbon Ring
Oil weepage through the carbon ring forming a streak or drip pattern as shown in the left illustration of Fig.l5 , ia considered normal. However, if oil is present on the surface
--
9'
0\
WIRING
CONN£CTIONS
MV.S T 8£ riRMLY PUSHCDON TD VACtA.N VALV£ VNTIL M£ "'L CUP.5 LOCK 1 N£C£.55AR.'Y APPLY A .SIIML.L AJr«JJ.JiiT CT LIQUID
NOZ.ZU: (Iocr)
( tr
.504P ON VALV£ NtlZZL£.5)
INSTAUMLNT CLUSTER
(lou)
G\ :Ia
0
c, --
--~
Ll-l
8RAGI<£T ATTAC.HING AOL.T
WIRC AS.SY
-<
(/\ m
CONTROL ASS Y C.ONOITION£Q
z-4
};: -4
'
(1) (J.)
WIRING et::JNIIEC T'IONS r CDIVNE..C. T MUL TIPL£ PL.U~ CONN£ C. TQit "'Tl:) RCSUTDI'f A.SSY CONN£..CT ..S/NC.LC PLUG CONN£C70R TO ACLAY T&AMINAL
V~t.SS-~
N·.S·NJ
oO&.JII?·.S~
(uu::gq
\~
~ ~·, ~ ·-1 .!I.!I9UJ·.Slr-
'!.
z
G> )>
z
0 I
m
~
z
G>
CA8L£ .SOTHATWH£N INNCR. CA&£ IS PUSNCO rVLLY IN THC. TCMP CONTROL LC.VDf 15 APPFf.OJt;: rRONI LH .SrOP
AlP CONDITIONING FALCON · FA/PLAN£
FIG. 13- Installation- A/C Vacuum Control
STA'ITER.
el
..,
To bATUJIY (!lol)
Pf\H!L
PAS~
~
I
'""
I I
...,.
.
:1111
II
.
SlilotrcN
·----4•-
To Co&. •~ . . lbt.H41fr sw,ftCH ere.
oI -
~
,..I
iii
~
8
:z
I
0
I
awwec.
L
30
~srcwt.
:z
z
EVAPORATOR ASSY
~
• ~.
FIG. 14- Installation A/C Electrical Schematic.
-f\
- .J
16-18
GROUP 16- VENTILATING AND HEATING
LEAKAGE THROUGH "0-RING"
NORMAL WEEPAGE PAST CARBON RING
LEAKAGE THROUGH DAMAGED BELLOWS
FIG. 15- Oil Leak paths compressor oil seal. RUBBER TUBING
4·11 / 1 6 1 N C H - - - - 1
I
-1-1 12 1NCH-1
\
THIS END FOR HORIZ().ITAL MOUNT Ca.IPRESSOR
12 NOTCHES 1/8 INCH APART STARTING AT EACH END OIL TO BE CHECKED WITH KEYWAY IN SHAFT FACING THE HEAD OF THE COMPRESSOR.
.
FIG. 16- Compressor oil level dipstick. . of the compressor beyond the clutch or has sprayed on the hood and surrounding brackets, the leakage is excessive. Replace the seal assembly. Oil Leakage Through 0-Ring
Leakage through the 0-ring type gasket on the cover plate (center illustration, Fig.15 ) indicates possible cracked, pinched, split or loose mounting screws. Check the screws for good condition and proper torque (7 to 13 ft-lbs). If there is heavy oil discharge with screws of good condition and correct torque, replace the oil seal assembly. Oil Leakage Through Damaged Bellows
Oil will leak through the rubber bellows as shown in the right illust-
Ll293-A
ration of Fig. 15 if the bellows distorts or cracks due to heat. A large discharge of .oil on the front of the compressor beyond the clutch indi· cates this type of leakage. Replace the oil seal assembly. Refrigerant-12 Leakage
Refrigerant-12leakage through any part of the seal can be determined only by a leak detector. Be sure to wipe all the oil away from the ~eal area before using the leak detector, because the oil may contain refrigerant which would give erroneous readings. If refrigerant leakage at the seal exceeds I oz. per year, replace the seal as outlined in Section 5. If no leak is found at the compressor crankshaft seal, thoroughly check all system fittings and lines for leaks as outlined in this Section.
FIG. 17- Compressor oil level, check and oil trap. COMPRESSOR OIL LEVEL CHECK Under normal conditions, when the air conditioning system is operating satisfactorily, the compressor oil level need not' be checked. There is no place for the oil to go except inside the sealed system, when the engine is first started, some of the oil will be pumped into the rest of the refrigerant system. After several minutes of operation, most of the oil is returned to the compressor crankcase. Check the compressor oil level only if any portion of the refrigerant system is being replaced, or if there was a leak in the system and the" refrigerant is being replaced.
PART 16-2- AIR CONDITIONING The compressor oil capacity is 10 fluid ounces. If there is a surplus of oil in the system, too much oil will circulate with the refrigerant, cause a reduction in cooling capacity of the system. Too little oil will result in poor lubrication of the compressor. When it is necessary to replace a component of the refrigeration system, certain procedures must be followed to assure that the total oil charge in the system is correct after the new part has been fitted to the car. When the compressor is operated, oil gradually leaves the compressor and is circulated through the system with the refrigerant. Eventually a balanced condition is reached in which a certain amount of oil is retained in the compressor and a certain amount is continually circulated. If a component is removed from the system after operation, some oil will go with it. To maintain the original total oil charge, it is necessary to compensate for this by replacing oil in the new replacement part. The procedure for replacing oil is as follows: -
COMPRESSOR ONLY 1. Idle the engine for 10 minutes at 1000-1500 rpm at maximum cooling and high blower speed to allow oil to circulate in the normal manner. 2. Discharge the system and remove the. compressor from the vehicle. Remove the drain plug and pour the oil into a measuring container. Make a note of the amount of drained oil, then discard it. 3_ If a new compressor is being fitted drain all initial fill oil from the sump. 4. If the oil drained from the removed compressor measured less than 4 ounces, replace 6 ounces of new oil in the replacement compressor. 5. If the oil drained from the removed compressor measured between 4 and 6 ounces, the oil is properly distributed throughout the system. Simply replace an equal amount of new oil in the replacement compressor. 6. If the oil drained from the removed compressor measured 6 ounces or more, replace ONLY 6 ounces of new oil in the replacement compressor.
REPLACEMENT COMPONENTS Whenever replacing a component of the air conditioning system, add measured quantities of oil to the component to assure that the total oil charge in the system is correct before the unit is operated. Oil should be added to replacement components as follows :Evaporator Add 3 fluid ounces Condenser Add 1 fluid ounce Add 1 fluid ounce Receiver
Condenser and receiver assembly add 2 fluid ounces. Oil should be poured directly into the replacement component. If an evaporator is installed, pour oil into inlet pipe with the pipe held vertically so oil will drain into the core. If any other components such as valves or hoses are replaced, no additional oil is necessary whilst the air-conditioning system is discharged. The compressor oil level can be checked using the tools shown in figures 16-17 as follows:1. Remove the oil filler plug from the compressor. Insert a flattened 1/8 inch diameter rod (Fig. 17) in the oil filler ' hole until it bottoms. The dipstick must be wiped completely clean before insertion. If necessary, slightly rotate the compressor crankshaft by hand so that the dipstick will clear the crankshaft. On horizontally mounted compressors, the oil check hole is located on the side of the crankcase that faces up. On the opposite or downward side, there is a corresponding boss provided on the inner wall as an alternate oil check hole for a different mounting. When checking the oil level on such a compressor, angle the dipstick so that it bottoms against the lower side of the crankcase and not against the boss. 4. Pull out the dipstick, and check the oil indication. It should show at least the minimum amount of oil as indicated in Fig. 16. If the oil level is low, add ESAM2C31-A (Ford Part No. C9AZ-19577A) oil If too much oil is indicated proceed as follows:(a) Draw out all of the oil using a trap similar to that shown in Fig. 17, or remove the compressor from the vehicle and pour the oil out of the crankcase. (b) Add oil until at least the minimum amount is indicated on the dipstick . 5. Remove the dipstick and refit the filler plug.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
The refrigerant used in the air conditioner system is Refrigerant-12 . Refrigerant-12 is nonexplosive, noninflammable, noncorrosive, has practically no odor, and is heavier than air. Although it is classified as a safe refrigerant, certain precautions must be observed to protect the parts involved and the person who is working on the unit. Use only Refrigerant-12. Do not use refrigerant that was canned for pressure operated accessories (such as boat air horns). It is not pure Refrigerant-12 and will cause a mal-
16-19 function. Liquid Refrigerant-12, at normal atmospheric pressures and temperatures, evaporates so quickly that it contacts. For this reason, extreme care must be taken to prevent any liquid refrigerant from coming in contact with the skin and especially the eyes. Refrigerant-12 is readily absorbed by most types of oil. It is therefore recommended that a bottle of sterile mineral oil and a quantity of weak boric acid solution be kept nearby when servicing the air conditioning system. Should any liquid refrigerant get into the eyes, use a few drops of mineral oil to wash them out, then wash the eyes clean with the weak boric acid solution. Seek a doctor's aid immediately even though irritation may have ceased. Always wear safety goggles when servicing any part of the refrigerant system. The Refrigerant -12 in the system is always under pressure. Because the system is tightly sealed, heat applied to any part would cause this pressure to build up excessively. To avoid a dangerous explosion, never weld, use a blow torch, solder, steam clean, bake body finishes, or use any excessive amount of heat on or in the immediate area of any part of the air cooling system or refrigerant supply tank, while they are closed to the atmosphere whether filled with refrigerant or not. The liquid refrigerant evaporates so rapidly that the resulting refrigerant gas will displace the air surrounding the area where the refrigerant is released. To prevent possible suffocation in enclosed areas, always discharge the refrigerant from an air cooling system into the garage exhaust collector. Always maintain good ventilation surrounding the work area. Although Refrigerant-12 gas, under normal conditions, is nonpoisonous, the discharge of refrigerant gas near an open flame can produce a very poisonous gas. This gas will also attack all bright metal surfaces. This poisonous gas is generated when the flame-type leak detector is used . Avoid inhaling the fumes from the leak detector. Make certain that Refrigerant-12 is both stored and installed in accordance with all state and local ordinances. When admitting Refrigerant-12 gas into the cooling unit, always keep the tank in an upright position. If the tank is on its side or upside down , liquid Refrigerant-12 will enter the
16-20
GROUP 16- VENTILATING AND HEATING
system and damage the compressor. In surrounding air temperatures above 90 degrees F ., prolonged engine idle will result in excessively high compressor pressures.
El
ADJUSTMENTS
DISCHARGING THE SYSTEM
When replacing any component in the air conditioning system, the system must be discharged. To discharge the system proceed as follows: 1. Remove the caps from the high and low pressure service (Schrader) valves in the high and low pressure lines at the compressor (Fig. 18). 2. Turn both manifold gauge valves fully clockwise to close the gauge set to the center outlet hoses (Fig. 19). 3. Connect the high and low pressure gauge hoses with adapters, to the respective high and low pressure service valves at the compressor (Fig. 20). 4. Place the open end of the center hose in a garage exhaust outlet. 5. Slowly depressurize the refrigeration system by opening the low pressure gauge valve a slight amount and allowing the refrigerant to discharge slowly from the system.Fig. 20 6. After the system is nearly discharged, open the high pressure gauge valve very slowly to avoid loosing an excessive amount of refrigerant oil and allow any refrigerant remaining in the compressor and high pressure line to discharge.
manifold gauge valve at the full counter-clockwise or open position. 4. Set the high pressure (discharge) manifold gauge valve at the full clockwi~e or closed position. 5. Open the Refrigerant-12 tank valve to allow refrigerant to enter the system, and observe the gauges. When both gauges reach 60 to 80 pounds at approximately 75 degrees F, shut off the tank valve. 6. Perform the leak test with the leak detector (Fig. 21 ). 7. Set the A/C controls for maximum cooling (Fig. 5). 8. Start the engine and open the R-12 tank valve again to prevent drawing vacuum on the suction side. 9. With the engine running at 1500 rpm, complete charging the system until the specified weight of refrigerant has entered the system. The sight glass should be clear with no bubbles visible at this time. (Note: Under 70 degrees F ambient a few bubbles may appear in the sight glass). 10. If the refrigerant will not enter the systein due to low temperature, it may be necessary to place the ~efrigerant-12 tank in a container of hot water at about 150 degrees F. This will increase the R -12 pressure and force the gas from the tank during charging. Never heat the Re-
EVACUATING THE SYSTEM
1. Discharge the system as described in the foregoing procedure. 2. Attach a•tank of Refrigerant-12 and a vacuum pump to the manifold gauge set. Make certain the Refrigerant-12 tank valve is tightly closed. 3. Open both manifold gauge set valves. 4. Run the vacuum pump until the low pressure gauge reads at least 25 inches and as close to 30 inches of vacuum as possible . Continue vacuum pump operation for 20-30 minutes to remove any moisture out of the system. Turn off the pump and close both gauge valves.
VALVE CLOSED
CHARGING THE SYSTEM
1. Discharge and evacuate the system as outlined in the foregoing procedures. 2. Leave the vacuum pump valve closed . 3. Set the low pressure (suction)
L 1672-B
FIG. 18
frigerant-12 tank with a torch. A dangerous explosion may result. 11. During the charging, the high pressure (discharge) side may build up to an excessive value. This can be caused by an overcharge of refrigerant, or an overheated engine, in combination with high surrounding temperatures. Never allow the high pressure to exceed 240 pounds while charging. If it does, stop the engine, determine the cause, and correct it. 12. After the proper charge has been made, close the Refrigerant-12 tank valve, and check the system pressures for proper operation. (Low pressure suction gauge 4-25 psi; high pressure discharge gauge 120-170 psi at 70 to 90 degrees F ambient). 13. After satisfactory operation has been achieved, disconnect the manifold gauge set high and low pressure hoses from the service valves (Fig. 20). 14. Install caps on the service valves and the manifold gauge set lines (Fig. 18).
PART 16-2 -AIR CONDinONING
16-21
TO LOW PRESSU RE
"""'~
L1290-A
FIG. 21-
Transistorized refrigerant leak gun
FIG. 19- Manifold Gauge Set
CHECKING FOR LEAKS
Attach the manifold gauge set as shown in Fig. 20. Leave both manifold gauge valves at the maximum clockwise (closed) position. Both gauges should show approximately 60 to 80 pounds pressure at 75°F with the engine not running. If ve~;y little or no pressure is indicated, leave the vacuum pump valve closed, open the Refrigerant-12 tank valve, and set the low pressure (suction) manifold gauge valve to the counter clockwise
Note - when using transistorized refrigerant leak gun refer to manufacturer's instructions. (Fig. 21). Flame type leak detector only. The smaller the flame the more sensitive it is to leaks. Therefore, to ensure accurate leak indication, keep the flame as small as possible. The copper element must be red hot. If it is burned away, replace the element. Hold the open end of the hose just below each suspected leak point for two or three
seconds. The flame will normally be almost colourless. The slightest leak will be indicated by a bright green blue colour to the flame . Be sure to check the manifold gauge set and hoses for leaks as well as the rest the system. NOTE: If the surrounding air is contaminated with refrigerant gas, the leak detector will indicate this gas all the time. Good ventilation is necessary to prevent this situation. A fan, even in a well ventilated area, is very helpful in removing small traces of refrigerant vapour.
of
LO MANIFOLD GAUGE Sfl
SIGHT GLASS CO NDEN SER
V4CUI..L'.1 PUMP
FIG. 20-
16-22
EJ
GROUP 16- VENTILATING AND HEATING
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
COMPRESSOR All compressor removal and installation operations, except belt replacement, can be performed only after the unit has been discharged. When replacing a compressor, the oil level in the old compressor should be checked. Then the right amount of oil should be removed from added to the new compressor so that the oil level is the same as that in the old compressor. This keeps the amount of oil in the system a constant. Failure to use this procedure is the most common reason for excessive oil in the crankcase. Refer to Compressor Oil Level Check, Adjustments Section 3. Removal 1. Discharge the system - refer to Adjustments Section 3, and disconnect the two hoses from the compressor (Fig. 24). Energize the clutch and loosen and remove the clutch mounting bolt. 2. Install a 5/8-11 bolt in the clutch drive shaft hole. With the clutch still energized, tighten the bolt to loosen the clutch from the shaft. Disconnect the clutch wire at the bullet connector.
necessary (Section 3}.
3. Loosen the idler pulley or alternator and remove the drive belt and the clutch and then remove the mounting bolts and the compressor. Installation Before installing the compressor, carefully remove any burrs or dirt that may be on the compressor shaft. The shaft must be dry and brightly polished.
VALVE
HEAD
2. Remove the cylinder head bolts. 3. Remove the valve plate and cylinder head from the compressor by tapping upward with a fiber hammer on the overhanging edge of the valve plate. 4. Remove the valve plate from the cylinder head by holding the head and tapping against the valve plate. 5. Remove the drip pan from under the horizontally mounted com-
0 """" 0 ... 0 ~7$ @ , •• 7 @ .o~eet
IU.TVlfNAJDil
.....
0 Jn,.,.""'
CLUT"CH
@
.1:0,.· 1.1
CONPR~JJM
....
©
.l4ll· #J6
f;I&LD
@
neU•I ·Sl/IX .ac,r
·-·-·.. --
0 ® ., ® ._.. @100\~
••~cr
.IMCK&T
""''"
CNGIIC:~~¥&
,,_ F:
AND
The procedure for replacing a blown head gasket is identical to the procedure for replacing the valve plate except that the old valve plate is used. If a worn valve plate has caused the cylinder walls to become scored or has imbedded pieces of metal in the pistons, the compressor should be replaced. Removal - AU Compressors 1. Discharge the system (Section 3 in this Part), and disconnect both suction and pressure hoses. Place a clean drip pan under the horizontally mounted compressor.
1. Mount the clutch on the shaft and install the mounting screw and washer finger-tight. Place the compressor on the mounting bracket and install the four mounting bolts fingertight. 2. Connect the clutch wire, energize the clutch and torque the clutch mounting bolt to specification. Tighten the compressor mounting bolts to specification. 3. Install the belt and adjust and tighten the idler pulley. 4. Install new Schrader valves in the service valves if the original compressor is to be reinstalled. Leak test the compressor, then evacuate it and connect it back into the system. 5. Check the oil level in the compressor, and add or remove oil if
®
PLATE
GASKET
-
~~~- fO.lOIYG)
® ..
. llltQIKJI
aaLr(••~ lOC'CWAUWIII
fM · SJ/SIIA .tOC.IIt....,LA
0c.•lfr.oto """"~ ~
® ~,..,....~
@
® 0
®
{f.uQq
.IOJ••·n
•«ri·•"i
I.O.J•t · 4J
~rl-·l·kiJIO
.1:0.147 ·.1&
.OI.T
@ , .J•••J·S7/It
®
.aLT
.JC..CW'
447l• · .S--
~H~7Z·SJ~
MIT nAT 'NII'ISI'f611
CLI~
® ·~ IIOIJ 0 ~M7 · St NIJT .$"10:11.
J
AIR CONOITION¥VG FALCCN · FAIRV.NE
FIG. 22- Installation Drg. 6 Cyl. Compressor
16-23
PART 16-2 -AIR CONDmONING
--
vu. .. ... ::a.t t ~ =~ ·.. nu. I":O'.rrt:n
ON ·ri'flCU _ P"')W'ER
VJEV Sl«lWDiO DISTALl.ATION 0~ CLIJ'i'CH ASSY.
~]
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 9. 10. 11. 12.
Bracket Compressor Mounting Belt Idler Pulley Assembly Alternator Assembly Pulley Assembly Fixed Clutch Assembly Compressor Assembly Nut Pulley Attaching Torque to 25-40 lbs. ft. Oil Gauge Wire. Brace Assembly Field Assy Washer
f....UI ~r--~ .. J ~n:Ei\ !NO ;,t~;.:>n .\
:'ii ,'C
'nEW SII
13. Bolt Bracket Attaching Torque to 30-45 lbs. ft. 15. Bolt Clutch Attaching Torque to 20-30 lbs. ft. 16. Screw Field Attaching Torque to 6-12 lbs. ft . 17. Bolt Bracket Attaching Torque to 20-32 lbs. ft. 18. Bolt Compressor Attaching Torque to 20-32 lbs. ft . 20. Bolt Idler Pulley Attaching Torque to 30-45 lbs. ft . 21. Stud Bracket Attaching Torque to 30-50 lbs. ft. 22. Nut Bracket Attaching Torque to 45-65 lbs. ft . 25. Stud torque to 30-50 lbs. ft. 26. Tag Compressor Identification 27. Clip Tag Attaching
FIG. 23- VB Compressor Installation pressor. Then, remove all particles of gasket,_dirt and foreign material from the surface of the cylinder head and cylinder face.
Be extremely careful not to scratch or nick the mating surfaces or any edges. Installation Compressor - Fig. 24 1. Apply a thin film of clean refrigeration oil to each side of the valve plate gasket (Fig. 24). 2. Place the new valve plate gasket in position on the crankcase so that the crankcase dowel pins go through the dowel pin holes in the gasket (Fig. 24). 3. Place the valve plate in position on the cylinder so that the dowel pins go through the dowel pin holes (Fig. 24). 4. Apply a light film of clean refrigeration oil on each side of the
cylinder head gasket. Then, place the gasket and cylinder head on the cylinder with the dowel pins inserted into the dowel pin holes in the gasket and head. 5. Insert the two longer cap screws in the two center holes of the cylinder head. Then, insert the remaining cap screws in the holes around the edge of the cylinder head. The four 12 point head screws should be inserted into the four holes closest to the service ports. 6. Tighten all head cap screws until they contact the head. Then torque the two center screws to 15-23 ft-lb . 7. Tighten the remaining cap screws in a pattern so that the cap screws diagonally opposite each other are evenly tightened to 15-23 ft-lbs. After the cylinder head has been installed 1/2 hour, retorque the head bolts to 15-23 ft-lbs. 8. Inspect hose connections and
Schrader valves for damage. Replace if necessary. 9. Check compressor oil level. Add or remove oil as required. 10. Evacuate and recharge the system. CRANKSHAFT SEAL Removal 1. Discharge the system, loosen and remove the belt. 2. Remove the clutch and remove the Woodruff key . Carefully remove the secondary dust shield so as to avoid marring the shaft. 3. Carefully remove all accumulated dirt and foreign material from the seal plate and surrounding area of the compressor, and position a small drain pan beneath the seal plate. 4. Remove the seal plate cap screws, and gently remove the plate and gasket. Do not mar or scratch the sealing surfaces, or the polished shaft surface.
16-24
GROUP 16- VENTILATING AND HEATING
SUCTION SERVICE VALVE
}dL T , '
MOUNTING BOLTS
l ~,.,a-.....t..
DISCHARGE SERVICE VALVE SERVICE VALVE 0-RING CYLINDER HEAD
VALVE PLATE ASSY.
VALVE PLAH GASKET
OIL FILLER PLUG GASKET
SEAL KIT ASSY.
FIG. 24- Compressor Disassembled.
BEARING INTERNAL RETAINER
~ULLEY
ASSEMBLY GREASE CATCHER CLUTCH DRIV~ PLATE ASSEMBLY
FIG. 25- Clutch Disassembled.
PULLEY ASSEMBLY
5. Remove the carbon seal ring and seal housing assembly from the crankshaft. A disassembled view of the crankshaft seal assembly is included in Fig. 24. 6. Clean all old gasket material from the seal plate and the compressor. Make certain that the shaft, the seal plate and the compressor gasket surfaces are completely clean. 7. Check the face of the crankshaft front bearing journal in the seal housing to make certain that there are no nicks or burrs. Check the crankshaft surface to be sure it is not damaged. Check all parts of the seal assembly to be sure that they are not damaged. 8. Inspect the compressor internal components for damage. Installation 1. Wash the new seal assembly components in clean refrigeration oil. 2. Position the seal over the end of the shaft with the carbon ring retainer facing out. Move the seal in and out on the shaft a few times to insure a good seal between the seal and the shaft. 3. Push the seal all-the-way on the shaft. Be sure that the seal drive ring slots engage the drive pins on the shaft bearing journal face. 4. Place the carbon ring (Fig. 24) over the shaft and in the seal ring retainer. The polished surface of the carbon ring must face out and the lugs must engage the ring retainer and be fully seated. 5. Apply a light film of clean refrigeration oil on the matching faces of the crankcase and seal cover plate. Then, place the gasket in position on the crankcase face. 6. Place the seal cover plate in position (Fig. 24), with the polished side facing the carbon ring. Then, install the cap screws. Tighten the cap screws evenly while turning the crankshaft. Be sure that the·clearance between the crankshaft and the hole in the seal cover plate is even all around the shaft. ·If the clearance is not equal all around the shaft, gently tap the seal face into position until the clearance is equal. Then, tighten diagonally opposite cover plate cap screws evenly to 7-13 ft-lbs. 7. Make certain that there are no burrs or dirt on the compressor shaft. Install the key and magnetic clutch on the shaft. 8. Install the belt and adjust the tension to specification. 9. Check the compressor oil level (Section 3).
PART 16-2 -AIR CONDITIONING 10. Evacuate system.
and
recharge the
CLUTCH
1. Loosen and remove the belt. 2. Energize the clutch and loosen and remove the clutch mounting bolt. · 3. Install a 5/8-11 bolt in the clutch drive shaft hole. With the clutch still energized, tighten the bolt to loosen the clutch from the shaft, then remove the magnetic clutch. 4. Carefully remove any burrs or dirt that may be on the compressor shaft. The shaft must ·be dry and brightly polished. Install the clutch, the clutch mounting bolt, and the washer. S. Energize the clutch, and torque the bolt to specification. 6. Install and adjust the belt. CLUTCH BEARING
When installing a new bearing, extreme care must be taken to support the bearing and the clutch assembly so as not to place any pressure on the balls of the bearing. The following procedure should be rigidly adhered to during bearing replacement. Any exceptions due to clutch design are noted. Refer to Fig. 25 . Removal 1. Remove the clutch assembly from the compressor shaft as outlined in the foregoing procedure. 2. With the clutch assembly face down, remove the external bearing retainer from the drive plate shaft. 3. Support the clutch, face down, by the outer edge so as to clear the drive plate. Insert a 5/8-11 inch bolt through the drive plate shaft and hand tighten the bolt. 4. Smoothly apply enough pressure on the bolt to free the shaft from the bearing inner race and then remove the drive plate assembly. Before proceeding, check the drive face plate for any excessive warping or breakage. Replace the entire clutch assembly if any damage is evident. S. Remove the internal bearing retainer from the pulley assembly . Support the pulley assembly, face up, by the bearing bore making certain that there is no interference when the bearing is pressed out. With a suitable plug, force the bearing out of the pulley assembly by the inner race. The plug should clear the metal
16-25
COMPRESSOR SPECIFICATIONS TORQUE LIMITS FT-LBS. 15-23 Cylinder Head 7-13 Front Seal Plate Mounting Bolt 20-30 Oil Filler Plug 4-11 Clutch Mounting 20-30 Base Plate 14-22 Back Plate 9-17 140 lbs. Drive Belt Tensicm New 110lbs. (Between Fan pulley and Used 90 lbs. air conditioner compressor) minimum A belt operated for a minimum of 10 minutes is considered a used belt. * Refrigerant charge 32 ounces Clutch current draw 3.75 amps * When recharging the syst~m, add 28 ounces and check site glass. If bubbles are evident, add Freon 12 up to 32 ounces. COMPRESSOR 01 L CAPACITY
Vertical 10 fluid ounces 7/8 min. - 1-1/8 max. Do not add oil if dipstick indicates proper level of oil between minimum and maximum. If dipstick is below minimum level, add oil up to minimum oil level only. ESA-M2C31-A Compressor oil grease catcher, but do not remove the grease catcher from the pulley assembly. Installation Before installing the bearing, be sure that all bearing contact surfaces are clean. 1. Support the pulley assembly face down, near the bearing bore but do not support it by the sides of the pulley grooves as this may bend the pulley assembly. 2. Press a new bearing into the bearing bore by the outer race. Do not press the bearing in by the inner race. Pressure should be uniform and in line with the axis of the bearing bore. Replace the internal bearing retainer. 3. Support the pulley assembly, face up, by the bearing inner race . Insert a 5/8-11 inch bolt, into the front of the drive face plate and carefully press the shaft into the bearing inner race, exerting pressure on the bolt. Be certain that the shaft is in line with the axis of the bearing bore. 4. Replace the external bearing retainer onto the drive plate shaft. Rotate the pulley relative to the drive plate to make certain that there is free rotation and that there is no looseness of the assembly before
Horizontal 13/16 min.- 1-3/16 max.
installing the clutch onto the compressor. S. Install the clutch on the compressor shaft.
c=)\ ~~ SELECTAIRE ·r Air Conditioning OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS I. MOVE TOP CONTROL LEVER TO - MAX : (CLOSE R.H. AIR VENT) 2. MOVE TEMP CONTROL LEVER TO
-cooL:
3. SWITCH FAN TO -Hr· SPEED. 4. ADJUST AIR OUTLET LOUVRES TO DIRECT AIR UPWARDS FOR MAX EFFICIENCY. WHEN CABIN HAS COOLED TO A SATISFACTORY LEVEL SET FAN ON - MED - OR - LO - SPEED. INTERIOR TEMPERATURE IS THEN CONTROLLED BY ADJUSTING THE TEMPERATURE LEVER .
NOTE : FOR
MAXIMUM COMFORT IN HIGH HUMIDITY CONDITIONS USE " FRESH " AIR MODE FOR SHORT PERIODS ONLY.
HEATER: I. SELECT " FLOOR " OR "SCREEN." 2. ADJUST "TEMP ' LEVER AND FAN FOR DESIRED TEMPERATURE. FOR QUICK WARM UP OR DEMIST MOVE " TEMP" LEVER TO WARM AND FAN TO " HI."
FIG.26
16-26
PART 16-3
RADIO & RADIO TAPE PLAYER
Section
Pare
1 Description Diaposis and Testing
~
D
Pare
3 Common Adjustments and Repairs 4 Removal and Installation 5 Tape Player ··· ..................... ..
16-27 16-27 16-28
DESCRIPTION
Four models of radio receivers are available manufacturw by Amalgamated Wireless (AUST-RALASIA) . Ltd. Model No. XA-18805-A is a deluxe solid state press button 7 transistor radio. Model No. XA-18805-B is a deluxe
B
16-26 16-26
Section
solid state manually tuned 7 transistor radio. Model No. XA-18805-C is a super fringe solid state push button 11 transistor radio. Model XA-18805-D is a super fringe solid state manually tuned 11 transistor radio.
The·aerial socker is located on a short lead at the left hand rear of the receiver and the aerial trimmer condenser on the top to the left hand and rear of the receiver. The speaker lead and socket is at the rear of the receiver together with the "A" lead which has its own fuse (See Fig. 1).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
The procedures given cover only minor radio receiver troubles. Each procedure either locates the minor trouble or determines that the receiver should have a major repair. The follo~ ing parts will be required to make the radio trouble shooting tests:-
Noisy reception-when car in motion. 1. Loose or broken aerial cable. 2. Loose or defective aerial.
Spare fuses (8 ampere); Aerial and lead (XL-18813-A, XL-18814-A); Speaker (A.W.A. Part No. 50263W) (Ford Part No. ARC 90C18808A);
Noisy reception--engiqe running. 1. Defective suppression equipment. 2. Capacitors not properly grounded. 3. Receive1· not properly grounded to instrument panel. 4. Aerial not properly grounded to fender.
RADIO DIAGNOSIS GUIDE No reception. Check for the following: 1. Burned-out fuse. 2. Defective aerial or aerial cable. 3. Shorted speaker lead or defective speaker. (Be sure to turn off the radio receiver before removing the speaker.) 4. If radio still will not play, remove the receiver for a major repair.
DISTURBED OR GARBLED SOUND Check for the following : 1. Voice coil rubbing on centre pole piece of speaker magnet. 2. Torn speaker cone. 3. Foreign material on cone. 4. Bent or twisted speaker mounting. 5. If still distorted remove for major repair.
NOISY OR ERRATIC RECEPTION Check for the following : Noisy reception--engine not running. 1. Loose connections.
WEAK RECEPTION Check for the following : 1. Adjustment of the aerial trimmer.
2. Check aerial cable. 3. Radio nuts tight :
All mounting bolts must be tightened securely in order to provide adequate earthing for the radio. 4. Aerial tight : 5. Aerial Connections tight : Aerial lead in cable must be firmly inserted into the receptacle in the receiver. 6. Aerial Trimming : The radio must be trimmed to match the aerial at installation. This procedure is simple and quick , vitally important for good performance and the most neglected of all the installation steps. 7. General Care: Many installations suffer due to generally careless work, causing rattles around the speaker area, unsightly installations (cables dangling) and damage to the aerial lead-in during installation. 8. If still weak, remove for major repair.
PART 16-3- RADIO
D
16-27
COMMON ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
ADJUSTMENJ AND OPERATION OF PRESS BUnONS
Switch the receiver ON by turning the front right hand knob clockwise. Allow the receiver to operate for about fifteen minutes before setting buttons. Any of the five buttons may be set to any station within the tuning range of the receiver.
AERIAL TRIMMER
1. Pull the desired press-button
out to ita fullest extent (approximately !" movement) to release the locking mechanism. 2. Carefully tune in the selected station V~~:th the Manual Tuninr Control. 3. Press the button fully in (total movement approximately j") to lock mechanism. Proceed in the above manner for the remaining four buttons. Five stations are now instantly available and independent of Manual Tuning. At any time the choice of preselected stations may be changed by repeating the above simple procedure.
rJ
I
RADIO FEED WIRE
\
ILLUMINATION LAMP FEED
FIG. 1-Radio Connections-Typical AERIAL RIMMER ADJUSTMENT
Switch the receiver ON and extend the aerial to its maximum length. Tune to the weakest station near the 15 calibration. With the volume control set in a suitable position adjust the aerial trimmer control
slowly in either direction until a peak volume is reached (Fig. 1). WARNING: These receivers are for 12 Volt negative earth operations only. Connection to wrong polarity will cause damare to the receivers.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
RADIO REMOVAL
Check radio operation and adjust aerial trimmer.
1. Remove instrument cluster housing . 2. Remove radio knobs and surround. 3. Remove heater control mounting screws. 4. Remove the wing nut attaching radio to rear bracket. 5. Remove 3 mounting screws at the front of the radio. 6. Withdraw radio and disconnect the aerial, speaker and power leads. Reverse removal operations for installation.
AERIAL REPLACEMENT 1. Remove the oblong base outer cover and remove the four mounting screws. 2. List aerial from fender. 3. Disconnect the lead from the radio and feed the lead through the cowl side panel as the aerial is being removed. NOTE: To aid in reassembly, it is advisable to attach a piece of cord to the aerial lead during removal. If a piece of cord is not used to draw the aerial lead through the
cowl side panel, it will be necessary to remove the splash sealing panel from inside the front wheel arch to enable access to the aerial hole in the cowl side panel. SPEAKER REPLACEMENT 1. Unplug the apeaker cable from the receiver.
2. Remove the wing nut and two screws retaining the speaker to the instrument panel. 3. Remove the speaker. 4. Fit up the new speaker and replace the wing nut and screws. S. Check radio operation.
16-28
GROUP 16-VENTILATING AND HEATING
RADIO TAPE PLAYER UNIT Installation of this unit is as shown in Fig. 2. Refer to Fig. 3 for speaker installation. Removal of the unit from the instrument panel is the same as for single unit radio. The playback head and capstan in the tape player may accumulate tape
FIG. 2 - Radio and Stereo.
coating residue (oxide) as the tape passes over the head. This accumulation may need to be periodically removed, as part of normal maintenance, if it causes weak or wavering sound. The playback head can be cleaned with a cotton swab, slightly moistened with alcohol. To clean the capstan, trip the on-
off switch at the rear of the cartridge slot with the eraser end of a pencil and hold the alcohol-moistened swab against the rotating capstan.
Excess alcohol on the swab may run down the capstan and damage the bearings. Do not use carbon tetrachloride.
PART 16-3- RADIO
16-29
~--·-
~"(
-
. ·· I;'"
/_; ( \
\
--
'-
/
FIG. 3- Speaker Installation Sedan and Wagon - Typical
GROUP 16- VENTILATING AND HEATING
16-30
i i I
II I ,
\
WIR£ W t rHBJ...,M;k. SU!Ell.e' 7l:' BE CONN~CTED TO T£.RJ'AIIJI4L Atttt¥HC£D .:;.•
J
FIG. 4- Stereo speaker in cowl side card.
FALCON FAIRLANE w~:~~~~P
BODY, DOORS AND
GROUP
WINDOWS
17
'"
PAGE
PART 17-1-
General Body Service
17-2
PART 17-2-
Front Sheet Metal Bumpers, Exterior Mouldings
17-12
Doors, Windows, Tailgate and Deck Lid
17-31
PART 17-3-
17-2
PART 17-1
GENERAL BODY SERVICE
Page
Section 1 Diagnosis and Testing ........ ...... .. Dust and Water Leaks ...... .. 2 Common Adjustments and Repairs Body Sealers and Application ...
D
Page
Body Alignment Paint Refinishing 3 Cleaning and Inspection 4 HoistiRg Door Windlace and Seals ....
17-4 17-4 17-8 17-10 17-10
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DUST AND WATER LEAKS Sealer locations should be considered when checking for dust or water leaks. The forward motion of the car creates a slight vacuum within the body, particularly if a window or ventilator is partially open. Any unsealed small opening in the lower section of the body will permit air to be drawn into the body. If dust is present in the air, it will follow any path taken by the air from the point of entry into the passenger and luggage compartments. Opening the ventilator air ducts will equalize these pressures. Dust accumulates in the rocker panel, and may eventually work its way to the kick-up or the rear body pillar, and follow the contour of the wheelhouse into the luggage compartment. To eliminate dust leakage, determine the exact point at which the
EJ
17-2 17-2 17-2 17-3
Section
dust enters. The point of entry is often deceptive in that the dust may enter at one point, then follow the passages formed by interior trim to another point. Under certain conditions, water can enter the body at any point where dust can enter. Any consideration of water leakage must take into account all points covered under dust leaks. To determine the exact location of a dust leak, it may be necessary to remove the following trim from the car: 1. Cowl trim panel. 2. Rear seat back and seat cush-
ion.
3. Luggage compartment mats, and sdde trim panel.
floor
4. Scuff plates.
After removing the trim, the location of most leaks will be readily evident. The entrance of dust is usually indicated by a pointed shaft of dust or silt. Seal these leaks, and road test the car on a dusty road to make sure that all leaks are sealed. After the road tests, check for indications of a dust pattern around the door openings, cowl panel, lower part of the quarter panel, and in the luggage compartment. Sometimes leaks can be located by putting bright lights under the car, with the above components removed, and checking the interior of the body joints and weld lines. The light will show through where leaks exist.
COMMON ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
A wide variety of sealers are used by manufacturers. Since it would be difficult to stock all of these sealers, the all-purpose sealers described have been selected for service use. The method and points of application are given under each sealer type. A cement for all weatherstrips. To repair leaks at windshield and rear windows, apply a ribbon of this clear cement and allow to
MOTORCRAFT MULTI-PURPOSE ADHESIVE R1-43
MOTOR CRAFT MULTI-PURPOSE ADHESIVE
dry until tacky. Press surfaces together firmly, i.e., rubber to glass or rubber to metal of body. This cement is also very satis-
factory to use for cementing weatherstrips to doors, bodies, deck lids, windows, weathershields etc.
PART 17-1- GENERAL BODY SERVICE BODY SEALER
SPECIAL MULTI-PURPOSE ADHESIVE
R124 GREY
R1·43
17-3
R125 BLACK This Sealer is semi-elastic and is fast drying. It will not run and can be cleaned up with solvent if necessary. It is packed inllt2lb. cartons and is either black or grey coloured.
MOTORCRAFT MU L T 1-PU RPOSE ADHESIVE
Multi-purpose cement is a quick drying, strong adhesive cement for general purposes . It is suitable for cementing rubber to metal, rubber to cardboard or wood or rubber to rubber. Surface to be cemented must be cleaned of all grease, dust and mould com_pound. To be assured of a clean surface, wash thoroughly with a cloth moistened with clean petrol or cleaner's Naptha. Cement is applied to both surfaces, allowed to dry for a few minutes, then pressed together firmly. If used according to directions, this white coloured cement gives a clean, satisfactory result.
These Sqlers are used for semisealing jobs such as are found in the floor pan, wheel houses, dash panel, rocker panel, door opening, quarter panels and drip mouldings. It is also used to seal trim panel and outside moulding clip holes and for windshield and back window installation. The grey coloured sealer is mainly used for general purpose operations as described. but the black can be used as an alternative as deemed necessary . The black sealer is especially suitable for windshield and back window servicing or when paintwork etc. is of darker colours.
II
LUBE STICK R1-26 (Dry Lubricant)
Prevents squeaks, rust and sticking.
Invaluable as a dry lubricant on car door dovetails, locks, latches, striker plates. Just clean the surface to be lubricated and apply a thin film- only a little is required. Also has a lot of domestic home uses--cupboard doors, window slides etc.
BODY ALIGNMENT
Servicing the unitized body should present no unusual difficulties or necessitate additional equipment other than that required for the conventional frame and body repair. The application of heat and the use of heavy-duty jacks must be carefully controlled because of the difference in the gauge of the metal in the sub-frame of a unitized body &nd the stress points developed in a single welded unit construction. It is possible to pull damaged areas
back into alignment with the use of light-weight jacks and hydraulic equipment without heating the metal. Rough out badly damaged areas before taking measurements for squaring up a body. If necessary, remove the glass from the damaged area to prevent damage. In severe cases reinforcement brackets and other inner construction may have to be removed or cut to permit
restoration of the outer shell and pillars without excessive strain on the parts. Straighten, install, and secure all such parts in place before attempting to align the body. In cases of severe or sharp bends, it may be nece'lsary to use heat. Any attempt to cold-straighten a severely bent bracket may cause ruptures of the welds and may also cause cracks in the bent part. Never heat the area more than a dull red.
17-4
GROUP 17-BODY, DOORS AND WINDOWS
CHECKING BODY FOR MISALIGNMENT To align or square up a body, take two opposite diagonal measurements between pillars. Use a measuring tram for these measurements. Take the measurements between reference points such as crease lines or weld joints which are diagonally opposite each other on the two pillars being measured. Since all measurements should be made from the bare metal, remove all interior trim from the checking points. In some cases, it is difficult to obtain proper body alignment when repairing a body that is damaged on both sides. In these cases, horizontal and vertical measurements can he taken from a body of the same · body.. style. Once these b;~sic dimensions are taken and established on the damaged body. alignment can be made by diagonal measurements taken from points on the two pillars. Do not attempt to correct any serious misalignment with one jacking operation. This is particularly true if other sections of the body also require aligning. Align each section proportionately until the proper dimensions are obtained. Door openings are checked in the same manner as the body. Horizontal, vertical. and diagonal checking points are established on all four sides of the door opening that is being measured. CHECKING UNDERBODY FOR MISALIGNMENT The dimensions of the underbody must be restored in the repair of major body qamage, to provide correct front and rear wheel geometry (Fig. 1). All the dimensions are detailed to the centre line of existing holes in the underbody assembly. Once the frame and suspension members are aligned, the balance of the repair can be performed.
PAINT REFINISHING Acr~· lic Enamels. Acrylic enamels exhibit better hardness. mar resistance and gloss retention in metallic colors than the ordinary enamels. Acrylic enamels also possess the property of good polishability. Following are recommended repair procedures for acrylic enamels: Repair By Polishing. Repair of minor dirt or fallout. sags, mars. scratches. dry spray. overspray and orange peel can be accomplished by machine or hand oolishing or by
both sanding and polishing without the necessity of repainting. Repairs of this type should apply to an entire panel while spot repairs should be attemped on.Jy in isolated areas. The suggested polish repair procedure consists of: 1. Remove the defect hy oil sanding with 600 grit paper, using water or mineral spirits as a lubricant.
2. Apply a white or light colored medium grit machine polishing compound to the painted surface with a brush. 3. Polish the entire panel surface using an I 850 rpm wheel and a carpet pad (approximately %-inch nap) or lambswool pad. 4. Buff the surface with a clean lambswool pad. Normally. acrylic enamels do not need polishing to improve their gloss; however, the foregoing procedure can he used to restore the original luster to the film after weathering, or to ill}prove the surface smoothness of the finish on the entire car. Repair By Repainting. Acrylic enamels can be repaired by repainting with either conventional air drying or low bake enamels, or with acrylic lacquers. When repainting metallic colors, it is recommended that acrylic lacquer be used since a better color match can be obtained; both the original finish and the repair can be polished to provide the same luster, and the air dry acrylic repair lacquer will provide better durability in service than air dry enamels. Do not use Nitrocellulose lacquers for exterior repairs. When using any one of the three types of repair materials over acrylic enamel, remove all traces of wax, polish or grease with a good silicone remov~r. It is extremely important that a thorough sanding of the original finish be accomplished using No. 400 grit paper. Care should be exercised to ensure that all surfaces; including edges and areas adjacent to applied mouldings, are thoroughly sanded in order to provide adhesion of the repair top coat. Areas saaded to the base metal (cut through) should be treated with an acid cleaner. Follow the directions of the supplier as stated on the container. After sanding, proceed with the application of a primer surfacer reduced according to the supplier's recommendations to any bare metal spots that have been exposed. After
the recommended air dry time, sand the primer surfacer with No. 400 grit paper before application of the repair material. The lacquer or enamel used should be reduced as recommended by its supplier. PAINT DEFECI'S AND REPAIR PROCEDURES Listed here are some of the abnormal paint conditions that may be encountered (Fig. 2). It is very important to identify the paint conditio.:t correctly so that the proper repair procedure may be followed. For each of the following paint conditions described, the recommended repair procedure will be indicated. BLISTERING Blistering is the formation of bubbles or pin points on the surface of the finished work. Unless inspected by a magnifying glass, this condition is very hard to identify. In some instance;, this complaint may be confused with dirt in the paint. To verify blistering, prick the suspected areas, and note whether a hole exists under the bubble. This condition is caused by rust, moisture, or oil between the coats, metal not properly cleaned, or uneven temperatures between the metal and' the paint being sprayed. Acrylic Enamel. Repair by repainting (color coat) . Priming procedure must first be followed if defect is due to poor metal preparation. CHECKING Line checking has the appearance of thin, straight lines criss-crossing each other. These lines may be from one-half inch to four inches or longer, increasing in length as the finish ages. Acrylic Enamel. Refinish panel. (Color coat-primer if damaged.) CHIPPING AND STONE BRUISES Chipping occurs when the surface of the finish coat of paint has been broken by a sharp blow, and small p,articles of paint have flaked off. Frequently, stone bruises result in chipping. Acrylic Enamel. Refinish panel. Paint may be spotted if in isolated areas. (Prime to be bare metal.) CRACKING Cracking is evidenced by the paint curling. Frequently, cracking starts at the edge of the panel. This is caused by poor mixing of paint or by temperature changes during the various painting stages.
8
.,
.-~
[I ~
.,-I
-
'" --r
; ~~ ; r ~~
.I
.'\
LJ
Q
,~ ~~
;;::-!
78 51 SEDAN 83 64 wAGON UTE & VAN /
39 08
n
0 :I
/
c:
170.96SEDAN 176.9 WAGON-UTY. & VAN
:I
..r:r
~ ft)
-=~ :: ~ ~~~~~ /
0
19 .56 R.H . WAGON UTY & VAN
t
44.50 SEDAN
I
I
"<
-..... I
G) m
0
-·3
"'.... I
~
ft)
.,,..
t-
53.18
:I
Ill
PLAN VIEW
0 :I
UI'I'EII SUSPENSION IIEAII HOUNTI.HG HOLE UPPEII SUSPENSION FIIONT MOUNTING HOLE ~
FRONT IUHI'EII HTG. HOLE
,.
72 .71 ......1-------WAGON -UTY· & VAN------~
DIAGONAL DIMENSIONS MUST &E EQUAL DIMENSIONS UNDER too• HAVE A VARIATION OF t 0·6"EXCEPT AS NOTED BY AN ASTERISK. DIMENSIONS OVER 100~ HAVE A VARIATION OF t 0.12~ *VARIATION OF ~ O·QZ" ALLOWED
Ill
IIIAKE SUI'POIIT WCKET
SIDE VIEW
z
66.35 SEDAN------~
46.99
-
g
m :;o )> r-
--
0
DETAIL OF END OF HEM8E R SHOWING LOCATING HOLES
OJ
0 0
~
(/)
m
:;o
<
(")
m
-..... I
V1
GROUP 17- BODY, DOORS AND WINDOWS
17-6
CROWFOOT lNG
RANDOM BLISTERS
PITS AND POP·UPS
SCRATCHES
.. .:..... .... PATTERN BLISTERS
DIRT IN PAINT
WATER SPOTTING
CRATERS
..
. ·.. ·
. .. .. , ';'
..
.
~·
• ;~ o
LINE CHECKING
a
MILDEW
THIN PAINT
INDUSTRIAL FALL·OUT
OFF COLOR
RUNS AND SAGS
ORGANIC FALL·OU T
... CHIPPING
BRUISES
CRACKING
"~RANGE
PEEL
PEELING
OVERSPRAY
N -1471 - A
FIG. 2-Paint Defects
PART 17-1- GENERAL BODY SERVICE Acrylic Enamel. Refinish panel. (Prime if both color and primer cracking.) CROW FOOTING Crow footing may be described as small lines branching off from a point in all directions and giving the appearance of a crow's foot. Crow footing is usually caused by spraying a second coat before the first coat is dry, by spraying an excessively thick coat, or by thinners which evaporate too fast. Acrylic Enamel. Refinish panel. (Color coat.) DIRT IN PAINT Patches where dirt appears are sometimes confused with blistering. To vertify the condition, prick the suspected areas, and note whether there is foreign material under the surface. Acrylic Enamel. Refinish panel. procedure will be effective in most cases. (Color coat.) MILDEW Mildew growth which occurs along radial lines is most commonly found in a very dark gray or black color. Acrylic Enamel. Repair by polishing. OFF-COLOR The term off-color is applied to adjacent areas on which the colors do not match . It may also appear when making spot repairs. Acrylic Enamel. Refinish panel if polishing does not correct condition (Color coat.) ORANGE PEEL Orange peel is a term used to describe an uneven, mottled appearance on the paint surface. This is usually caused by improper thinning of the paint. Acrylic Enamel. Refinish panel if polishing does not correct condition. (Color coat.) OVERSPRAY Overspray is evidenced by a rough, dull finish in the area surrounding the paint repair. PEELING Peeling occurs when large areas of the finish or primer coat separate from the metal or prime coat. This is usually caused by wax , grease, rust or oil under the paint. Do not confuse with orange peel. PITS AND POf-UPS Pits and craters may be ident ified by the appearance of small round
depressions in the paint. These may be caused by not allowing the first coat ol dry sufficiently before applying the second coat or from failure to remove silicone polishes before repainting. Acrylic Enamel. First use polish repair procedure refinish panel if necessary. (Color coat.) THIN PAINT The primer will show through the fini sh coat as a result of an excessively thin color coat, or application of the color coat before the surface is dry. Acrylic Enamel. Refinish panel. (Color coat.) RUNS AND SAGS The . uneven collections of paint on the finish surface are referred to as runs and sags. The collections may appear in the form of tear drops or sagging lines. Usually these lines are quite soft and sometimes the y may be wrinkled . This is usually caused by over-application of paint or hesitation in the stroke of the gun . Acrylic Enamel. Use polish repai r procedure. SCRATCHES Scratches are thin marks or tears that may partiall y or completely penetrate the surface of the finish coat of paint. Acrylic Enamel. Use polish repair procedure for shallow penetration . Refinish panels to correct conditions of deep penetration. SPOT DISCOLORATION This is evidenced by brown spots or stains on the surface. Stains or spots can be caused by road tar, acid or alkali-bearing water from the streets. Acrylic Enamel. Use polish repair procedure. WATER SPOTTING Water spotting is evidenced by a milky pattern where water drops have fallen . Acrylic Enamel. Use polish repair procedure.
INDUSTRIAL FALLOUT IndustJ;ial fallout is the result of particles being exhausted into the air by the various processes of heavy industry, in areas where there is a concentration of such industry.
17-7
Industrial fallout particles appear to the eye as tiny rust coloured dots on the paint film and the surface feels rough to the touch. Some of the particles have excellent adhesion and are difficult to remove. However, the following procedure has proven effective in the removal of this fallout . 1. First, wash the car with car wash compound to remove loose soil. Rinse well and examine painted surfaces for iron base fallout particles. If there is a significant quantity of fallout not removed by ordinary washing, the acid treatment should be used. All cracks, ledges, grooves, etc., where fallout has accumulated should be cleaned by wiping or by an air blow off. 2. Dilute 1 part hydrochloric acid (commercial grade) to 100 parts of warm water and add one or two tablespoonsful of a non-alkaline detergent such as car wash compound to every gallon of the diluted acid mixture. Other neutral detergents are permissible, but all alkaline compounds should be avoided. This acid detergent solution must be prepared and kept in a clean NONMETALLIC container. Apply this solution liberally to all affected surfaces of the car with a large sponge. U se a broad wiping stroke and keep the work completely wet for about fifteen minutes, or until the operator can no longer feel any surface roughness or even isolated gritty particles with bare or gloved finger tips. If this is not done thoroughly rust stain may soon re-develop. Again, it is most important that the work be kept wet, since a dry acid residue is not active in loosening fallout. Be sure that the entire acid cleaning procedure is performed in a sheltered area so that the work will be kept as cool as possible, to prevent rapid evaporation of water and consequent surface drying. DO NOT WORK IN THE SUN. Even a strong breeze makes it difficult to keep the job wet over a large area. 3. Rinse the job with clean water. This must be done very thoroughly to prevent possible corrosion. CAUTION : No traces of acid should be left on any surface. Bright trim parts, particularly anodized aluminium and stainless steel may be stained by prolonged con-
17-8
GROUP 17- BODY, DOORS AND WINDOWS
tact with the cleaning solution. Even painted areas can be spotted by prolonged exposure. It is also important to keep the acid cleaner solution from leaking inboard because some fabrics might be bleached or discoloured by the same. NOTE: If the fallout is not completely removed or is deeply imbedded in the paint film, cleaning with the acid detergent mixture must be repeated. This may be aided by using a fine scrubbing brush, possibly a nylon bristle type. Just make sure that the light scrubbing required does not scratch the paint. It is also helpful sometimes to brisklv rub the work with a mixture ·of equal parts of the acid cleaner and a cleaner wax polish, using a piece of heavy towelling. Again thorough_ water rinsing is extremely important.
EJ
The use of Oxalic Acid to remove metallic particles derived from Industrial Fallout has been investigated. The use of Oxalic Acid is not recommended for uncontrolled use by the public. This acid is extremely poisonous ( 1 gram of solid acid being a fatal dose for h\lmans). The Department of Public Health advise that a 5% solution is safe if normal precautions are observed but it is felt that there are more suitable alternatives. Hydrochloric Acid will achieve the same result as Oxalic Acid. This acid is corrosive but not toxic.
ORGANIC FALLOUT Organic fallout may result from parking cars under trees or from the air under certain atmospheric conditions.
Acrylic Enamel. Refinish damaged panels. (Color coat and primer.)
INTERIOR PAINT REPAIRS The proper matching of colors can be obtained if the following procedures are carefuly adhered to: 1. Clean the surface to be painted with wax and silicone remover. 2. Feather-edge the damaged area with 400 grit wet or dry sandpaper. (Prime all areas of bare metal with M-6J-12S Primer.) 3. Mix the paint per instructions on the can and spray several light coats. Allow the paint to become tacky between coats. 4. Spray the entire area sparingly with B7 A-645-S Lacquer Leveler which will blend the repaired area with existing painted surfaces.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
FLOOR PAN PLUGS AND GROMMETS The floor-pan plugs seal the various access holes. If any plugs are missing or improperly installed, a dust or water leak may result. This also applies to the grommets used on the dash panel. When dust or water leaks are evident, these plugs and grommets should be checked for proper installation. DRAIN HOLES Drain holes or valves located on the underside of each rocker panel, quarter panel. and door should be cleared periodically. BODY MAINTENANCE Regular body maintenance preserves the car's appearance and reduces the cost of maintenance during the life of the car. The following steps are suggested as a guide tor regular body mamtenance: 1. Vacuum the interior thoroughly and wash the car. 2. Check all openings for water leaks, and seal where necessary. 3. Cement all loose weatherstrips which are still usable. 4. Replace all door and deck lid weatherstrips which are unfit for service. 5. Apply silicone lubricant to the weatherstripping. 6. Replace all cracked, fogged,
or chipped glass. 7. Align the hood, doors, and deck lid if necessary. 8. Inspect the windshield wiper blades and replace them if necessary. 9. Tighten the sill plate and garnish moulding screws. 10. Clean the seats, door trim panels, and head lining. 11. Touch up or paint chipped or scratched areas. 12. Drain holes located on the underside of each rocker panel, quarter panel, and door, should be cleared periodically.
RATTLE ELIMINATION Most rattles are caused by a loose bolt or screw. Foreign objects such as outs, bolts, or small pieces of body d'!adener in the door wells, pillars and quarter panels are often the source of rattles. Door wells can be checked by carefully striking the underside of the door with a rubber mallet. The impact made by the mallet will indicate if loose objects are in the door well. In the event that tightening the bolts and sccews, located on such assemblies as the doors, hood, and deck lid does not eliminate the rattles, the trouble is probably caused by misalignment. If this is the case, follow the adjustment and alignment procedures for these assemblies.
Rattles and squeaks are sometimes caused by weatherstripping and antisqueak material that has slipped out of position. Apply additional cement or other adhesive, and install the material in the proper location to eliminate this difficulty. EXTERIOR CLEANING The outside finish should be frequently washed. Never wipe the painted surface with a dry cloth. Dusting the finish when it is dry tends to rub the dust and dirt into the baked enamel, and leaves a sandpaper effect on the surface. To keep the finish bright and attractive and eliminate the necessity of using polish, wash the car whenever it has accumulated a moderate amount of dirt and road salt.
The bright metal parts of the car require no special care. Periodic cleaning will preserve the beauty and life of these finishes. Wash with clear water or if the parts are very dirty use Autolite car wash. Using a clean soft cloth or a sponge and water, rinse and wipe the parts dry. Do not scour aluminium or chrome finished parts with steel wool or polish them with products containing abrasives. A Autolite. Polish will provide excellent protection for all bright metal parts.
PART 17-1- GENERAL BODY SERVICE INTERIOR CLEANING
Use a vacuum cleaner to remove dust and dirt from the upholstery or
REMOVAL OF SURFACE STAINS FROM VINYL TRIM MATERIALS
Many warranty claims are received at Head Office Service for replacemertt of stained body trim. From examination of displaced trims returned from the field, it has been found that in many cases the stains have been further aggravated by using incorrect removal agents and therefore staining the trims to a greater degree than the original stain. The following procedures basically detail the removal agents for stained vinyl trims and should be used prior to replacement being contemplated. Ballpoint Pen Inks:
First mix parts of fresh Calcium Chloride* and Fuller's Earth {both available at your local chemist). Now add a few drops of methylated spirits and mix with a knife into a fairly thick paste. Add more methylated spirits as necessary. Next, apply the paste with a knife along the ink stains. Wait for it to dry, then remove it with a damp cloth. Finally wash the affected area over with a wet cloth and dry with a clean cloth. Should the stain still remain, repeat the cleaning procedure. If the removal of the stain leaves the surface dull, wipe it over with cotton wool moistened with glycerine. Do not use furniture or floor polishes.
* Special Note: Use only calcium chloride. Chloride of lime is too drastic as a cleaning agent and can permanently damage the fabric. Lipsticks, Shoe Polishes, Fatty & Greasy Stains:
With a dry rag, remove as much of the stain as possible. Take care not to spread the staining substance over
17-9
floor covering. Vinyl and woven plastic trim that is dusty can usually be cleaned with a damp cloth. Do not use cleaning materials containing kerosene, naptha, toluol, xylol 10°,
lacquer thinners, cellulose acetate, butyl cellosolve, carbon tetrachloride, body polish, battery acid, antifreeze, gasoline, motor oils or other type lubricants.
the surface. Now gently wipe the affected area with a cotton cloth moistened with methylated spirits or mineral turps. To complete the cleaning process, wash over with warm, soapy water.
hot water, then allow it to dry thoroughly. Now wipe over with a clean cloth moistened with methylated spirits. In this case, do not use warm, soapy water, as this sets the stain.
Battery Acid:
Ice Cream:
Battery acid is a severe corrosive agent. It may destroy the surface of your fabric or permanently stain it. If you have household ammonia handy, apply it at once to the acid. This will neutralise it. Now wash over with warm, soapy water. Always dilute the acid quickly. If ammonia is not readily available, use a normal household detergent. These usually contain a neutralising agent.
Try using warm, soapy water at first. If this is not successful, wash the affected area repeatedly with very hot soapy water, then rinse with cold water. Now wipe over with a clean cloth moistened with methylated spirits, followed by warm, soapy water. Ice cream is a very difficult stain to remove if left to harden, so quick action is important here.
Blood:
A tar stain is one of the most stubborn stains, virtually impossible to remove if left for any length of time. Quick action with a little kerosene or mineral turps on a clean cloth is recommended here.
Cold water will remove blood stains if used immediately. If marks persist, use household ammonia, or a starch paste. Chocolate:
Remove the excess chocolate with a spoon and wipe over with a cloth moistened with methylated spirits, then wash with warm soapy water. Toffee:
Scrape the stained surface with the edge of a spoon and wash with very hot water. Then wipe over with a cloth moistened with methylated spirits. Then wash with warm soapy water. Chewing Gum:
Set the gum with an ice cube, then scrape with the edge of a spoon . Wipe over with methylated spirits (as above) and finish with warm, soapy water. Liquor & Fruit Stains:
Wash the stained area with very
Tar:
Paint:
While the paint is still wet, or just set, apply mineral turps with a clean cloth. Now wash over with warm, soapy water. Again, immediate action is essential, as dry paint cannot be removed without damaging the surface of the fabric. IMPORTANT: You should never use abrasive cleaners or cleaners containing solvents (other than those mentioned above). Neither should you use steel or copper wool. These can permanently damage the surface of your fabric and spoil its appearance. Such cleaners as "dissol", "Plastic Devil" and "Vyno" are very effective if used strictly in accordance with the instructions provided with them.
17-10
E]
GROUP 17- BODY, DOORS AND WINDOWS
HOISTING VEHICLE
The unitized body-frame construction requires special precautions and procedures when the car is jacked up or hoisted. In some cases, special hoist adapters must be used as recommended by specific hoist manufacturers. Refer to the Owner's Manuals when using the jack supplied with the car. DRIVE-ON TYPE HOIST To prevent possible damages to the underbody, do not drive the car onto the drive-on type hoist without first checking for possible interference between the upright flanges of the hoist rails and the underbody. Should there be interference, the hoist flanges should be modified as necessary and/ or the approach ramps built up to provide the needed clearance.
REAR
To prevent damage to the shock absorbers, the rear forks must contact the axle at points as near as practicable to the differential housing. Carefully raise the rear post and check the position of the fork (Fig. 4).
FRONT RAIL TYPE , FORK LIFT OR F LOO R J A C K CO NTAC T A REA
least 12 square inches of underbody area. Figs. 3 and 4 show recommended contact points for the hoist pads.
FLOOR JACK When a stationary floor jack or a roll jack is to be used, there are several specific recommended points of contact. Either side of the car may be raised at the front by jack contact at the lower arm strut connection. Either side of the front end of the car may also be raised by jack pressure on the front crossmember, or on the crossmember to which the stabilizer is co!'loected.
RAIL TYPE-FREE WHEELING HOIST
FRONT The front adapters or hoist plates must be carefully positioned in contact with the lower suspension arms to assure safe, accurate lifting.
REAR The hoist adapters must be positioned carefully under the rear axle to prevent damage to the shock absorbers when the car is raised. The hoist rails should be raised slowly and the position of the adapters checked. FORK LIFT HOIST FRONT
FRONT FRAME CO N TACT AREA
M1111 .A
FIG. 3-Front Hoist Contact Areas
TWIN POST
To assure safe hoisting, the front post adapters must be positioned carefully to contact the centre of the lower suspension arms (Fig. 3).
FRAME CONTACT HOIST Frame contact hoist adapters are necessary to lift the car. The hoist adapter pads should each cover at BODY-DOOR WINDLACE AND SEAL
The installation of door windlace and weather seals is shown in Fig. 5. To remove the combined windlace/ seal remove the screws attaching the moulded ends to the door frame and remove the windlace/seal from the flange .
FIG. 4-Rear Hoist Contact Areas
PART 17-1- FRONT SHEET METAL BUMPERS, EXTERIOR MOULDINGS
FIG. 5- Door Weather Strips and Seals
17-J 1
17-12
PART
17-2
FRONT SHEET METAL, BUMPERS, EXTERIOR MOULDINGS Page
Section 1 In-Car Adjustments and Repairs Hood Adjustments ... .... ... . ... . .... Hood Lock Adjustments .. .. .... . .. .
17-12 17-12 17-12
2 Removal and Installation .... .... ....
17-12
Section
Page
Hood Hinge Radiator Grille Front Bumper ... . Rear Bumper Exterior Mouldings Instrument Panel Sun Roof
17-12 17-12 17-12 17-16 }7-16 17-19 17-17
DIN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS 3. Tighten the lock retaining screws. Open and close the hood several times to be sure that it latches securely.
HOOD ADJUSTMENTS
The hood is provided with fore and aft, vertical, and side-to-side adjustments (Fig. 1). These directions refer to the position of the hood when it is fully lowered. The enlarged bolt slots in the hinge at the hood provide the side-to-side and fore and aft adjustments. The slots in the hinge at the fender apron provide vertical adjustment. Hood bumpers, located on the top left and the top right surface of the radiator support, can be adjusted up and down to provide a level surface alignment of the hood panel with the front fenders
HOOD LINE ADJUSTMENT
1. Adjust the hood bump stops so that there is no bump stop to hood contact. 2. Adjust the hood lock dowel so that an even bonnet line is obtained. 3. Adjust the bump stops so that they just contact the hood.
HOOD LOCK ADJUSTMENTS
FIG. 1-Hood Hinge Installation
1. With the hood open loosen the hood lock retaining screws (Fig. 2).
2. Move the hood lock mechanism as required to align it with the Jock striker.
EJ
4. Close the hood and check for correct lock operation. Under no circumstances should the bump stops be used to obtain hood line adjustment.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
HOOD HINGE
1. Prop the front of the hood in the open position and cover the fender and cowl panel. 2. Remove the hinge-to-hood retaining bolts, the retaining bolts at the fender apron and cowl (Fig. 1), and remove the hinge. 3. Position the hood hinge on the body and install the hinge retaining bolts. 4. Adjust the hood for proper fit.
RADIATOR GRILLE AND SURROUND- FALCON & FAIR LANE
The grille is a one-piece plastic moulding and is retained bv eight screws. To remove the grille frrst remove the screws, (~ at each head lamp surround and 2 in the centre) and remove the grille forward. FRONT BUMPER
REMOVAL
1. Remove the front bumper arm to fender support brackets left and right hand sides.
2. Remove the bumper left and right inner and outer arm-to-frame side rail retaining bolts and remove the bumper assembly (Fig. 3). 3. Remove the bumper inner and outer arms from the bumper. 4. Remove the licence plate. INSTALLATION
1. Install the licence plate on the new bumper. 2. Install the bumper inner and outer arms on the new bumper using spacers and washers as shown in Fig. 3.
PART 17-2- FRONT SHEET METAL BUMPERS, EXTERIOR MOULDINGS
I
I I
I 'b I
I \
I '\
\
'\\
FIG. 2 - Installation Hood Lock
-\
17-13
17-14
...
Q)
Q.
E ::J
...c:::
Q)
...
0
u..
c:::
0
~
iO
t; c:::
I M (!)
u..
GROUP 17- BODY, DOORS AND WINDOWS
PART 17-2-FRONT SHEET METAL BUMPERS, EXTERIOR MOULDINGS 3. Position the bumper assembly to the car and loosely install the bumper arm-to-frame side rail retaining bolts . 4. Align the bumper assembly and tighten the bumper arm-to-frame side rail retaining bolts. 5. Replace the front bumper arm to fender support brackets.
REAR BUMPER
REMOVAL WAGON 1. Remove the screws retaining the license plate lamp assembly to the rear bumper. 2. Remove the rear license plate. 3. Remove the eight bumper armto-frame retaining bolts and remove the bumper assembly.
INSTALLATION 1. Transfer the rear bumper arms and rubber bumper to the new bumper.
2. Position the bumper assembly on the car and install the bumper arm-to-frame retaining bolts. 3. Position the license plate lamp assembly to the bumper and install the retaining bolts. 4. Install the license plate.
17-15
3. Remove the bumper stone shield and brackets as an assembly. 4. Transfer brackets, stone shield and licence plate to new bumper. 5 . Position the bumper assembly on the car and install the bumper bracket to frame bolts. 6. Align bumper bar with vehicle . Tighten mounting bolts and install licence plate lamp .
EXTERIOR MOULDINGS Before removing the exterior mouldings, it should be determined by the type of retainer used whether a respective door, quarter or luggage compartment trim panel must first be removed to provide access (Figs. 9 through 12).
REAR BUMPERETTE REMOVAL UTE & VAN 1. Remove bumperette outer support bracket nuts. 2. Remove main support bracket bolts to frame ( 4 from beneath vehicle) Fig. 5. 3. Transfer brackets and pad to new bumperette. 4. Position bumperette assembly on the vehicle, install the bumper bracket to frame bolts. 5. Align bumperettes to vehicle. Assemble bumperette outer support and tighten mounting bolts and nuts.
REAR BUMPER REMOVAL SEDAN 1. Remove the licence plate lamp from the bumper. 2. Remove the 6 bolts bumper support .bracket to body (2 . from beneath vehicle I from inside luggage compartment each side) Fig. 4 .
1
e J
&JMPERA.S.S ,..- TAll OAT£. TO &JMPfRETTE IJA/? I?[AR dUMPrR£.77£ IMPACT .ARI\II .45.SY REAR 6UMPli?ETTl INNlR !NNE~
4
RCIIVrASS'I·REARtwMPER'C.rTE 'SlOE
5 6
REINF' REAR l3VMP£1U7T£ SID£ OUTER A PM REAR 8UMP£RETTE. OUT£R
A
ll
c 0 E ~
6
FIG. 4- Installation Rear Bumper Ute/Van
80L T A55Y hf.-14 J( SPACE li!
/JfJ
<' R(QD 8 REaD
WA SHEI: ~FLAT d REGV NCJT h<·/4 LOCK 8REQO Sl.RE VV .t' WASHER A.55Y k · .4.~~t/A HX HD B REGD NVTOVASHER A.SSY J'4 -CO NX t! IUQD
!YtiTtWiJ.sHE..RASSY ht-A!I
ZI?EQD
-.-.... I
0\
"c :Ia
0
.,
..... I
OJ
0 0
-<
0
0 0;o (/)
)>
z
0
~
z
~
(/)
~
/
~
7
FIG. 5 -Installation Rear Bumper Sedan
PART 17-2- FRONT SHEET METAL BUMPERS, EXTERIOR MOULDINGS Instructions for Repair and Adjustment of Sun Roof. 1. Adjustment of panel alignment: (a) Front, left and right: Release lining frame at the front and push back. Loosen the fixing screws for the slide at the front end. Adjust the milled nuts and re-tighten the fixing screws. (b) Rear, left and right: Loosen the bolt on the closing mechanism. The bolt can be moved to the desired position in the slot in the closing mechanism by turning the adjusting screw to the left or right. Re-tighten the nuts on the bolt. 2. Panel rises on one side only: Examine the ramp in the drainage channel in the frame to see whether it is properly aligned with the lifting element at the rear end of the panel. To do this, slide the panel back completely. The point where the lifting element makes contact with the ramp can be clearly seen on the rearward slope of the ramp. Adjust the ramp and if necessary, the lifting element on the panel, so that working point of the lifting element lies at the middle point of the ramp.
shorter than the original). Reinstall parts and panel, adjust the cable so that the forward edge of the panel is parallel with the forward edge of the roof aperture. If necessary adjust as indicated in paragraph 3.
5. The joints of the cable slides are out of alignment (guide rail, corner and connector rails and cable box) and are jamming the cable drive: Loosen the screws holding the guide rails, corner and connector rails and cable box a few turns. Retighten the screws one by one, continually activating the drive mechanism. Where necessary realign those points where resistance is felt. Checking for alignment of the ramp and lifting elements (see paragraph 2). If one cable needs replacing, replace both to assure a parallel travel of the roof panel.
4. Damaged drive cable includes remove and replace panel and push back lining. Remove the lining frame, unscrew front slides, remove closing mechanism from the skid at the rear, lift out the outer roof panel. Remove the cover of the drive mechanism box, spring plate over drive pinion, connector rails and upper parts of the corner rails. Pull out the cable with the rear slide from the guide rail. Install a new cable, lubricated with grease of molybdenum disulphate. (Replacement cables may be longer but never
LUBRICATION
During cable replacement, lubricate the cables with petroleum jelly or vaseline. It is not necessary to lubricate the top surface of the guide rail covers or the slide tracks. Periodically, clean off any residue that may accumulate on the guide rail covers. DRAIN TUBES
During regular maintenance check to ensure the drainage holes at the front corners of the roof panel frame are open and free of foreign material. If the drains are plugged , they may be cleaned with an air hose (low pressure) or with a flexible wire. If the drain tubes can not be cleaned in this manner, they must be replaced. When cleaning with an air hose, use low pressure so as not to damage or detach the plastic tubes.
LOWER FRONT GUIDE CONNECTIGI UPPER FRONT GUIDE CONNECT!""
CABLE DRI VE HOJSING COVE R
C~~~ £r~HOJS=ING===== UPPER ELBOW
GUIDE
''
3. Panel does not run true: Close the roof. Determine which side of the panel jams. Open the roof again. Remove alloy cover of drive mechanism. Lift out the spring plate over the pinion. To pull forward the right hand side of the sliding roof panel, lift the cable at the front (looking in the direction of travel) of the pinion, pull it one or more teeth to the left and replace. Note: Do not accidentally move the panel while the cable is off the pinion. Slide back the spring plate over the drive pinion. Screw back the drive mechanism cover.
I
17-17
F ROHT SLIDE . . - - - - ASSEMBLY
.,..f!'
DRI VE CAB LE RETAI NING CUP
REAR SLIDE AHOCABLE-............. ASSEMBLY
SLIDE RETAINER
REAR STOP
GUIDE RAIL _ _ . . .
FIG. 6- Sun Roof Sliding Panel- Disassembled View- Typical
17-18
GROUP 17- BODY, DOORS AND WINDOWS
FIG. 7 - Drive Cable and Housing Installation - Typical
FIG. 8 - Removal and Installation of Rear Slide and Cable- Typical
PART 17-2-FRONT SHEET METAL BUMPERS, EXTERIOR MOULDINGS INSTRUMENT PANEL REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
REMOVAL 1. Remove the crash pad as outlined in Group 18-1. 2. Remove the glove box and door. 3. Remove air-conditioner/heater/ ventilation ducts from instrument panel. 4. Remove instrument cluster housing
5. Remove the instrument cluster. 6. Remove heater /air-conditioner control. 7. Remove radio . 8 Unclip the wiring harness from the instrument panel. 9. Remove two screws, hand brake handle to instrument panel. 10. Remove brace attachment bolts at the instrument panel. II. Remove bolts attaching the instrument panel to cowl side brackets.
12. Release the steering column upper support to allow access to the bolt instrument panel to pedal support. 13. Remove the instrument panel from the vehicle, Fig. 15. INSTALLATION Reverse removal procedure for installation
©
r----t-=,==fr--.L___-t--..L--L--r'-~~- -@
roR-~-;-;y I OOYIIVG LM-fPS FOR Gr CW.Y -
@
lrnJJ1~~~-~-@ ~--~
FIG. 9 - Grill and Front Ornamentation
©
©----@
~ - ~-@
($5l!J=L -- -
@
17-19
®
--
17-20
GROUP 17- BODY, DOORS AND WINDOWS
@
FIG. 9-A- Grill and Front Ornamentation
@----®-~~
~----------~~
l )
H
FIG. 10- Exterior Ornamentation (Sedan, Wagon, F/Lane)
©
~.
PART 17-2- FRONT SHEET METAL BUMPERS, EXTERIOR MOULDINGS
©
@)
FIG. 10·A- Exterior Ornamentation (Sedan,
1 --~--
\
'\
©
@
®
F/Lane)
17-21
GROUP 17- BODY, DOORS AND WINDOWS
17-22
I
\
.
I
\,~
\
,....__ __ ~·,
J
~ --
I ,
\
.-J.
[?
FIG. 10-B- Exterior Ornamentation (Sedan, F/Lane)
(
-
\f. '
®
©
®
17-23
PART 17-2- FRONT SHEET METAL BUMPERS, EXTERIOR MOULDINGS
/0
FIG. 10-C- Exterior Ornamentation (Wagon)
ARDZOB ·71·517:«.·1 IWCJULCJING ROOf# t:RI<> I'INISII ,ADf'IT .<0'1 MOtii.S 7/B, 710 1/1 Qfdo
l
J.
ilcl
lA. 72DA·li·517M/9
IVOULDING R OO> a
FINISH REAR -I'OA MOlllLS
718. 1JD 1/t A£0'0
ARDZDB·/60~ NOUI.DING I'RONT F£ND£R WH££L~N1NG I'OR NoODEL 110 - 1/1 ACQ "O
2.
NFotC}J CAGH M()()LOINO I-YITH •A . 579$60-5/01 '!X-AOV- 7 REO 0 ARDdDB · 71·/01~ - 7 M/)lJL/)1/Vf': M£M8£H - FOR. MODEL Jln 1/t AT!ACI-4 EACH /VtOUU' IN6 Will-I
~ IDC
rL OOI-l 11[~'~
D
C AIO'C9DB · 54 ·10182. · R~TAINC/i? A.OOI:l SIDE MCMB£'2 - 7 Ai'CG t) 15 53037- S!J6:SCQ£N • z REGO
I<'/OUti)fNC'
4. ARD2DB · 71 ·29144 ·5
MOU.DII\G OUAQTCAi' WHE:CL OPeNING - R::>Q MODEL 710 ·1/II?COrJ ATTKH CACH MOULDINC WITH A 379560-SO·s=REw-6~0
S. IIR02CB · 54 - 2445G·9 MOULDING CCr/ • SGii!I£/V -6 -'?LOb
6. A/i/DU:IIJ· 11·.29061>·1
AI/OUI.D/1;16 ASSY IUAR 1/1 REO.URCD
QIJNIT£R Ol/76/DE
(At,- 0 AL(. 71 MOCkL:::i) A T TA ._ H £~ H M Q,_ C N 6
WIT ...
REWNCR AR 00011 OUTSIDE MOUD/N6 6 RCQ"O. ~-~-z~ IICTNNCR ASSY t:lOCW OiJT!>JDE. MLD6 I R£0. 0 . V-'871~-57 /II/IT IREo.:L>
F . AAC9QB·$.. ·e$4tA4e A
<>
~: rs:;;~:~ .4TTACif£A ~H
~o;~
lt
ASSY
IV! DOOR
w ~ ~
1. '..,;...;.tlt 'IU.
F'
G
ARC908 ·5-f • 2 /0 !:HA. R£ TIA.INCif ASSY OOCR Our5tD£ MLDG 2 .11~Q 'D
V38T7ZS ·Sf
8 A.ROCDB
-~4
2 R£0"0
NUT
-COTIJ0-1 HnULCING A5SY
~N
(')t"Y:;J~
1/1 ACQD {R PO ALL 71 H . Xlf:L.::;) ,ll ':'
I
.o~ ._· ,..
.4. ' H
'
4-1 ~-..
TI-l
F.A. ~-' . 908 - S4 · c ~ •A~~ ,4 RCTAtN£'k
..3
OUTS!!)£ HOULt) I !VG
' P DOOR
A£Q D
G ARC908 ~54--Z t': 94A R£rAttvF.R A~!Y ~()O,Q OUTS/~£ .v.. .:>G 2 REG ~ V38llZS ·51
9
e RCQD
NUT
AR0208 ·If.. - 8068 / 9
FCIVIJ£k SID£
F
1,
··I[
MOULC J\IG A5':t
,Yr.
o u · 1r c
;.. .')J fY6
Hl.LJG_ ,
V lf47725-57 IO Af?Vc..Ot.. · ,_ ,. :'t- r . .~r
6
Rc.- TAt!V£R Ff ,,., DCXJR PEG., D RETAIIIIFD ..t! SSY f'lOOP
~>t.u.,
N •IT
t Rra o
~..; .... .;
ltiOtiLOtflt• · r"J..':)"'i f!NUCR 2 RCO [) ( . ,., A~- 71 ~s)
-4TTAC ,., EACH MOUL {'' '' .
0
~R\JN'T '
"·. - .,,,-v)( t;
.AR; - 9tJ8-5 4 · 2 ~ 4A4~-A.
OUTJt[l£
G Ah'C 9
H
~
;r 'L
Jl.5890 ~ S100 _ ,_£i~E
u
7'1
NUT
-
1 q£') D
GROUP 17- BODY, DOORS AND WINDOWS
17-24
- B z~ -
TYP
-
,_
1/ /
I
I 5ECA IVO'Ir A . BIC AU. Mt::IOEL.S .
I ~noo.
>"')ooA'C~ ,t:"f>'?
FIG. 11 -Body Side Stripe
PART 17-2- FRONT SHEET METAL BUMPERS, EXTERIOR MOULDINGS
17-25
2
(£
Lfl@
I
IF? ~
'
I
I FIG. 12- Rear End Ornamentation {Van and Wagon)
'
I
I
~ ----@----0
(8)
17-26
, r, , rI
GROUP 17- BODY, DOORS AND WINDOWS '
LF_J
~ I
~
(.
{)0
--=- =-
''·l·~ ' '~'·\\\, I '
I
'\
1
JU
i\
0
·£ -
®-
0)
FIG. 12-A- Rear End Ornamentation (Ute and Fairlane) nV;'-JL(-J__©S~
13) -®- - - - -9XJ
·'
I
®
PART 17-3- DOORS, WINDOWS, TAILGATE AND DECK LID
2
@
@)
GV;\JL_@ ® l * - ® @
-- -®
,ern- -
6£=~--
@
ffl -- - -
®
( CSSJ
FIG. 12-B- Rear End Ornamentation (Sedan)
©
@
®
®
0 ®
17-27
GROUP 17-BODY, DOORS AND WINDOWS
i). _ _
-
--- ~
-
-()
'
I
®
2
SYioolo
I
PART NO -16AI08/9
PART NAiooiE looiOULDING-FAONT FVIOER AIR !COOP- G.T,
2
-1&01~(6
PANEL FRONT
l
.... 6E106 - 7
DEFLECTOR FAT. FENDER Alii SCOOP
"
f3 7388&--.1 iol!'>
NUT-
FENDER
r SELF THREADING
FIG_ 13- Fender Air Scoop G.T. SEC
A
PART 17-3- DOORS, WINDOWS, TAILGATE AND DECK LID
I. ~
f
_
, [ 02_:':~ AT ~,------ .\r~~. _ -1 DIMO: HEA~[J I
~~
LJ
~
5£CTION CC
17-29
PEkiPHERY
-16612- BA HOOD MJY -16C612-AA MOULDING A.SSY.·J.IOOD AIR SCOOP OPENING {37.3888-540) NUT (12 REQD) ·16A70.J-A LATCH NOOD D(TERNAl -16A704-A8 SPRING- 1-1000 f x TC/rNAL LAT('l--1
@/17?1
536 PIN-GROOVED
~ ~ -'""to
I
(
A
fl
V!£W-
B
(/) NOTE:- PIN(S) MUST BE ASSEM8LED
5YM A&:vT STEM o,:- LATCH TNRI.J SeLECTED HOI..€ W!I!Cfl TO
UNDER ),: ( l:r.JN
A -A
FIG. 14- Hood Air Scoop G.T.
RErA!NER ASSY
-.._. •
UJ
0 I.
2
Q
0 4320 AllNCL ASS Y INST. WCL0£0 10A892'1JCZ£l AS SY. INST Cli/STCR MA IN A j587~S· 5 8 SCREW • 8 ·15 ~ 38 CRS . R£C l-ID. WASHeR lJ. V .J88U ~9- 5l Nf/T A SSY. CA GC 1"~ ·18 UNC . C . 42758 5 36 SCI: CW(~ SHCR A SSY ¥6·/8
t. J
-H
04810
P
?2S .536
WAS H[ ,f
,r "(E PTA C L£ Aj ~ Y
SS!:ti~7 S ~
"VS I PANEl A.JJ..I JC.{}£w •8 ·18 A 1J TYPEA 8i'MNI"'OCAR£(
/
,__,.. _
~
RCQ
'
'
2
.
.
-~,1-.- -=::----__--~---- ~ ~
~ ;Ia
0
1
c.,
z
-..... •
"T1 C)
.... (,11
I ::s
!!:. .,
OJ
0 0
.,
-<
<
0
0
c
3(1)
KNOCKOUT AS REQD FOR CLOCK /N.JTALLA~
....::s ""0
::s
z
(1)
0
::s
.... "' I»
~
ii)
::s
"'
}>
I»
.... (5'
0
(/)
z
0
.3
~
(/)
r/
'®
17-31
PART 17-3
DOORS, WINDOWS, TAILGATE AND DECK LID
Section Page I In-Car Adjustments and Repairs .. .. .. .. .. I 7-31 Dour Alignment ...... .. I 7-31 Lock Striker Adjustment .. .. I 7-31 Vent Window Adjustment .. .. 17-31 Front Door Glass Adjustment 17-3 I Rear Door Window Adjustment 17-31 Single Action Tailgate Hinge Adjustment 17-33 Deck Lock Adjustment .. .. .. .. .. 17-53 Deck Lid Alignment .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 17-37 2 Removal and lnstalla tiun .. .. .. .. I 7-37 Doors .. .. .. .. .. .. . . . . . . . . 17-37 F runt Door Lock .. .. .. .. 17-37 Re:n Door Lock .. .. 17-37 Door Lock Cylinder .. .. .. .. .. .. 17-37 I 7-37 Door Handle .. .. .. .. .. Door Lock Remote Control Handle i 7-37 Door Vent Window Frame . . . . . . . . . . .. l7-3X 17-38 Front Door Glass . . . . . . . . . . ..
D
Section Front Duor Window Regulator Rear Door Glass .. .. .. .. .. .. Rear Door Window Regulator Rear Quarter Window and / or Weatherstrip Station Wagon .. .. .. .. .. .. .. Windshield .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. Back Window and / or Weatherstrip .. Tailgate Glass . . . . . . . . . . . . .. Tailgate Window Handle and Lock Cylinder - Manual .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. Tailgate Switch and Lock Cylinder - Power Deck Lid Lock Power Window s .. .. .. .. R/Vision Mirror Dual Actinn Tailgates Description and Operation .. .. .. Adjustments .. .. .. .. Remova l and Installation
Page I 7-38 17-38 I 7-39 17-39
1740 17-41 I 7-43
.. .. .. ..
17-43 17-47 l 7-53 17-54 17-41 17-48 17-48 17-48 17-48
IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
DOOR ALIGNMENT The door hinge> provide >uflicient adjthlnl.:nt to correct mo>t mi,alignmcnt condition\. Loosen the door hmgc attaching holts and adjust the door '>0 that it is centered in the door opening \\hen clo~ed. Then. tighten the hinge attaching holt~. After adju,tment at the hmgc att.tchmg point~. check the alignment het\\t'en the door lock anJ ,tnl-.:r pl.tte for prope r Joor closing. no not conr up poor door adjustment "ith ~trikcr plate adjustment. LOCK STRIKER ADJUSTMENT The ~.triker pin can he adju>ted laterally and vertically as well as fore and aft. The lock striker shC'•Jid not be adjusted to correct door s.ag. The lock strika !>hould he shimmed I<' l!Ct the clearance 'hown in Fig. I hetween the lock striker and the lock . To check this clearance. clean the Jock jaws and the striker area. anJ then apply a thin layer of dark grease to the Jock striker. As the Joor is closed and opened. a measurahlc pattern will result. Move the stnkcr a~>emhly laterally to provide a tlu-,h tit at the door and the pillar or 4Uarter panel.
R.P.O. VENT WINDOW ADJUSTMENTS The vent glass and / or the vent window frame may be adjusted in various ways. With the vent glass installed, the lower pivot spring tension may he adjusted with a socket. extension, and ratchet used through the access hole in the door inner panel. Adjust so that the glass will stay open at highway speeds. The door frame mounting holes are elongated to provide a tight tit for the vent window frame in the door frame. The upper pivot mounting holes are slotted to help provide a weather-proof tit of the glass frame within the vent window frame.
J
lOCK STRIKER
: ·~~': ~ .
' ':
"
', >'\ . 1!-'\:, ' '-
I
~·~. '
MINIMUM MAXIMUM
FIG. 1-Door Lock Striker Adjustment
FRONT DOOR GLASS ADJUSTMENTSThe door trim panel must be removed to make any of the following adjustments. Fore-and-aft adjustment for snug glass tit within the runs may be made hy using suitable shim stock between the front run and the vent window division bar. The front and/ or the rear run may also be shimmed at the lower attaching point(s).
Vertical adjustment is possible by moving the regulator in its attaching holes. Lateral adjustment for smooth movement of the glass within the runs can he maJe by moving the lower attaching points of the run (Fig. 2, 3 & 4). REAR DOOR WINDOW ADJUSTMENTI. Remove the door trim panel and watershield . 2. To obtain proper alignment of retainer and division har assemblyto-door window frame, shim the attachment points until desired alignment is obtained.
17-32
GROUP 17- BODY
DOORS AND
WINDOWS
GLASS RETAINER REMOVAL PUSH BUTTON IN UNTIL FLUSH WITH RETAINER
PUSH RETAINER IN FIRMLY
GLASS RETAINER INSTALLATION
FIG. 2-Front Door Ventless Window Mechanism -
Typical
N2179-B
PART 17-3- DOORS, WINDOWS, TAILGATE AND DECK LID 3. Install the watershield and door trim panel. Power windows are not available where vent windows are fitted.
TAILGATE EMERGENCY OPENING PROCEDURE If the window regulator or the manual regulator handle is inoperative, the tailgate can be opened using the following procedure. I . Remove the tailgate interior cover panel retaining screws. 2. To remove the tailgate cover panel, carefully pry loose with a large ~:.-
. ... ...r;.
screwdriver. Be sure to protect the trim panel from scratches. 3. Remove the panel by attaching two wire hooks in the upper holes and slide the inner panel up and off the tailgate. 4. Remove the water shield. 5. Disconnect the regulator arms from the glass lower channel. Carefully lower the glass to the down position and open the tailgate. TAILGATE HINGE ADJUSTMENT The tailgate can be adjusted fore or aft and up or down at the hinge to body mounting bolts. ·• ~ ~ ·
I
. oM
17-33
To adjust the tailgate from side to side in the tailgate opening, loosen the hinge to tailgate bolts and shift the tailgate as required.
DECK LOCK ADJUSTMENT The striker plate can be adjusted laterally and \'ertically and the lock can be adjusted laterally. Before adjusting the deck lid lock, make sure that the deck lid is properly aligned. To adjust the lock, loosen the attaching screws, move the lock as required to make good contact and
- .. ..... <1. (
Ill"'!'
.'. IITJJ~QJo~ •Af.
vr.
r----
• 1 • :.0:00
4 ,
ICJ.r ll
r.tl tP
• n~
US'rA ~SO l'l.t.Tl'IO.
•w•
rc.
Tl'll JXD '1U.M!
-:"". r..CH.ITA~ l lllltAWTlOII I.ISr (t a-111'191'1'9·• } ~
..
~;~lfn:~:J ~O:c~ I ~~ ~ vurm~~~~
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12.
Glass - Front Door Window Weather Strip Assy - Front Door Glass at Belt Outside with Clips Bracket Assy- Front Door Window Glass Mounting Weatherstrip Assy - Front Door Glass at Belt Inside with Clips Run Assy- Front Door Glass Retainer Assy - Front Door Glass Run Lockside Run·Door Vent Window Division Bar Glass Retainer Assy - Door Vent Window Division Bar Glass Run R & L Regulator Assy - Front Door Glass (Manual) Window Assy - Front Door Vent Bracket Assy- Front Door Window Equalizer Arm Regulator Assy - Front Door Window (Power)
A
B
c
D
E F G H
J K
L M N p
Q
FIG. 3-Front Door Vented Window
Retainer Assy - Door Window Glass Channel Bracket Screw & Washer Assy Torque 6-11 lbs. ft . Screw & Washer Assy Tor que 6-11 lbs. ft . Screw & Washer Assy Torque 6-11 lbs. ft . Screw Hex head Tapping U Nut Screw Torque 18-43 lbs·in Screw & Washer Assy Torque 6-11 lbs. ft. Screw & Washer Assy Torque 6-11 1bs. ft . Screw & Washer Assy Torque 6·11 lbs. ft. Spacer - Rear Door Window Regulator Motor Bracket Bracket - Rear Door Window Regulator Motor Nut & Washer Assy Torque 18-43 lbs·in Black Sealer - .25 dia applied along entire Inside Corner and on Top of Channel & Window Assy (item 10) before Installation of Vent Window Assy Adhesive Bead .18- .25 Applied to Areas Between Points V and Won Both Corners.
17-34
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18.
GROUP 17- BODY
Glass - Rear Door Drop Glass - Rear Door Drop Glass - Rear Door Stationary Weatherstrip - Rear Door Stationary Window Glass - Rear Door Stationary Window Weatherstrip - Rear Door Stationary Window Weatherstrip Assy- Rear Door Glass at Belt Outside with Clips Bracket Assy- Rear Door Window Glass Channel Run Assy - Rear Door Glass Run Assy- Rear Door Glass Weatherstrip Assy- Rear Door Glass at Belt Inside with Clips Run - Rear Door Glass Rear Run - Rear Door Glass Rear Retainer & Division Bar Assy - Rear Door Glass Run Retainer & Division Bar Assy- Rear Door Glass Run Regulator Assy- Rear Door Window (Manual) Retainer Assy - Rear Door Glass Run Front Regulator Assy - Rear Door Window (Power)
DOORS AND WINDOWS
A B C D E F G H J K L M N P
Retainer Assy - Door Window Glass Channel Bracket Screw Screw & Washer Assy Screw & Washer Ass y Screw & Washer Assy Screw & Washer Assy Screw & Washer Assy Screw & Washer Assy Screw & Washer Assy Spacer - Rear Door Window Regu lator Bracket- Rear Door Window Regulator Motor Nut & Washer Assy Adhesive Bead - Apply both Corner s Shown X and Y Black Sealer - .19 Dia . around Perimeter of Stationary Glass as Shown View B
FIG . 4-Rear Door Window Mechanism
AI-(A
--
z
09
I~ ,o;:::.~
'
2
DESIGN CL EARANCE
AREA
Z
--
~-~
~j I~H
b
n
I ' \l--.~ ~ - ---"'1'\ )~~~
'\ /
' ~/.: -~~~ -,/ /~ "'' "-""" y ,
8 VIEWC
~~
,
·
13
vtew£
II
10
8
G
~ MODELS XA-54 ( 71
f-7\ 7-
A
APPLrfr:.- 8 -MIC9J ·Aj LUBRICANT
I
II
9
NOTE ·
08 DESIGN CLEARANCE
~
3
TO LOO< R[LEA5£ LEVER OF HANOLL A.SSr JT[ Mtfii!ATAR[A Z
i I
.,
1. Handle Assy - Rear Door Lock Inside 2. Latch Assy - Door - Rear 3. Link Assy- Door Latch Remote Control 4. Link Assy - Door Lock Control Rod 5. Rod - Rear Door Lock Push Button 6. Knob - Door Lock Control Rod 7. Bell Crank Assy- Rear Door Lock Control 8. Handle Assy Rear Door Outside 9. Rod & Washer Assy- Rear Door Handle Actuating 10. Plate- Front Door Handle Outside Mounting 11 . Handle Assy- Rear Door Outside 12. Pad - Door Outside Handle 13. Plate- Front Door Handle Outside Mounting 14. Striker Assy Door Lock
-:-a
w I
§ "'
~
~
z
-~ ~
6'.
~
VIEWD
,f 4
,.,-t ~
~
(tl) '
IN VI{W5
A18 e.EFOR{ IN5TALLAT!ON OFI-iANDL! A.)SY ·
-t
m
)>
.,
"08~
.
z
''--A
0 0
m
()
2
~
r-
0
-.a I
w
Vl
FIG. 5 Door handles and locks installation
GROUP 17- BODY, DOORS AND WINDOWS
17-36 .06 .03
AREA
2
......
Z
7
13
·H
J
H
14
II
10
09MIN IS MAX.
10
VIEwC
9 VIEW
8
VI[W
ALL MODELS
D
NOTE APPt.Y{ESB-MIC93·A} LUBRICANT TO LOCK RELEASE LEVER OF 1-/ANOL£ ASS'Y. TT£MI2t4 AT AREAZ"IN VIEWS BEFORE IN:5TALLATION
A; B
OF HANDLE A.SS'Y
B
VIEW
G
VIEW£
VIEWF
ALL MOtJt:LS
J 1. Handle Assy - Door Inside 2. Latch Assy - Door Front 3. Link Assy - Door Latch Remote Control 4. Handle Assy - Front Door Outside 5. Plate & Lever Assy- Front Door Outside Handle Mounting 6. Knob- Door Lock Control 7. Rod- Door Lock Push Button 8. Ref - Door Lock Pillar 9. Striker Assy - Door Lock 10. Rod - Door Lock Control to Cylinder 11 . Lock Assy - Door 12. Rod Assy - Door Lock Actuating 13. Handle Assy Front Door Outside 14. Pad - Door Outside Handle 15. Plate - Front Door Outside Handle
A B C D
Screw & Washer Assy Clip Assy Screw Clip- Door Lock Rod Retaining
F Nut & Washer Assy G Grommet Door Lock Knob H Clip Door Lock Rod Ret J Shim - Rear Door Lock Striker Plate K Screw & Washer Assy Torque 10-20 lbs. ft. L Retainer- Door Lock Cylinder M Clip Door Lock Rod Retaining
FIG. 5A Door locks and handles installation
PART 17-3- DOORS, WINDOWS, TAILGATE AND DECK LID tighten the attaching screws. Move the striker plate up or down as necessary to increase or decrease the clearance between the deck lid and the lower back panel.
EJ
DECK LID ALIGNMENT The deck lid can be shifted fore and aft, up and down, and from side to side. Slotted holes in the lid provide fore and aft movement.
17-37
Slotted hinge bolt holes in the mounting bracket provide up and down movement. Enlarged hinge mounting bolt holes in the lid inner panel provide limited lateral movement.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
DOORS REMOVAL 1. Remove the door hinge-to-door attaching bolts, and remove the door. 2. If a hinge is damaged, remove the pillar attaching bolts and remove the hinge. 3. If the door is damaged, a replacement door is furnished as a sheet metal shell in prime paint. It has no hinges, trim, glass, runs, or hardware. When a door is replaced, make any needed minor repairs to the new shell, drill holes necessary for mouldings, paint the door, and transfer all usable parts. Cement the weatherstrip properly. If only a door outer panel is seriously damaged, the whole door need not be replaced. A replacement outer panel is available.
INSTALLATION 1. If the hinge was removed, install it to the pillar. 2. Position the door to the hinges. Partially tighten the bolts, align the door, and tighten the bolts securely. 3. Align the door glass, glass runs, stops, regulator, and remote control. 4. Install the door water shield and the door trim. FRONT DOOR LOCK
REMOVAL 1. Remove the trim panel and position the water shield away from the access holes. 2. Disconnect the door lock remote control link, the lock actuating rod and the lock control to cylinder at the lock (Fig. 5). Remove the knob from the push button rod. 3. Remove the glass rear run lower retaining bolt and position the run away from the door lock. 4. Remove the lock assembly from the door. Remove the push button rod from the lock.
INSTALLATION 1. Connect the push button rod to the lock.
2. Position the lock in the door, and install the retaining screws. Connect the lock control to cylinder rod, the lock actuating rod, and the remote control link at the lock. Install the push button. 3. Position the glass rear run in the door. Install the retaining bolt, adjust the rear run, and tighten the retaining bolt. 4. Check the operation of the lock. If necessary, adjust the lock striker. 5. Carefully position the water shield to the inner panel; and install the trim panel. REAR DOOR LOCK REMOVAL 1. Remove the trim panel and position the water shield away from the access holes. 2. Disconnect the door lock remote control rod and door lock control rod at the door lock assembly. 3. Remove the three screws retaining the lock assembly to the door and remove the lock assembly from the door (Fig. 5).
INSTALLATION 1. Position the lock assembly in the door, and install the retaining screws. 2. Connect the door lock remote control rod and the door iock control rod at the door lock assembly. 3. Check the operation of the lock. If necessary, adjust the lock striker. 4. Carefully position the water shield to the inner panel, and install the trim panel. DOOR LOCK CYLINDER The key code is stamped on the lock cylinder to assist in replacing lost keys. When a lock cylinder is replaced, both door lock cylinders and the ignition lock cylinder should be replaced in a set. This will avoid carrying an extra key which will fit only one lock.
1. Remove the trim panel and position the water shield away from the access holes. 2. Disconnect the lock control to door lock cylinder rod at the lock cylinder. 3. Pull the door lock cylinder retainer rearward to release the cylinder, and remove the lock cylinder from the door. 4. Transfer the lock cylinder arm to the new lock cylinder. 5. Position the lock cylinder in the door, and install the lock cylinder retainer (Fig. 5). 6. Connect the lock control to door lock cylinder rod at the lock cylinder. 7. Carefully position the water shield to the inner panel and install the trim panel. DOOR HANDLE
1. Remove the door trim panel, and position the water shield away from the access holes. 2. Disconnect the lock actuating rod. 3. Remove the handle retaining nuts and remove the handle (Fig. 5). 4. Connect the lock actuating link to the door handle and install the handle. 5. Carefully position the water shield to the inner panel, and install the trim panel. DOOR LOCK REMOTE CONTROL HANDLE
1. Remove the remote control housing bezel by sliding the bezel towards the front of the car, then lifting clear of the trim pad. 2. Remove the window regulator handle (manual windows) and remove the door trim panel. 3. Slide the remote control hous· ing forward clear of its location in the door inner panel, unhook the remote control rod and remove the housing. Reverse the preceding operations for re-assembly.
17-38
GROUP 17- BODY, DOORS AND WINDOWS
R.P.O. DOOR VENT WINDOW FRAME 1. Remove the door trim panel and the watershield. 2. Remove the i:mer and outer door belt line weatherstrips by prying them loose from the door. 3. Remove the window lower stop (power windows) and completely lower the door window. 4. Remove the front glass run adjusting bolt, lock nut and washer. 5. Remove the front glass run from the division bar retainer at the vent frame by sliding the run down and removing it from the door through the inner panel access hole . 6. Remove the three screws retaining the vent frame to the door frame . Remove the vent window assembly and place it on a bench . 7. Remove the screws retaining the upper vent pivot to the vent frame assembly. Remove the nut retaining the lower pivot bolt and remove the spring nylon bushings, washer and stop washer. 8. Remove two screws from the top of the assembly and remove the four rivets retaining the vent frame and division bar weatherstrip. Separate the frame and division bar. 9 . Using suitable tool, remove the glass. Remove the weatherseal.
INSTALLATION
1. Position new weatherseal to the vent glass. 2. Lubricate the weatherseal with rubber lubricant and seat the glass assembly in its channel. 3. Position the division bar to the vent frame . Position the vent frame and division bar weatherstrip and install the four rivets and two screws at the top of the frame. 4. Assemble the vent tension spring to the lower pivot and adjust the pivot spring tension so that the window will stay open at highway speeds. 5. Position the frame assembly on the door and install the three retaining screws. 6. Position the glass front run in the door and slide it into the vent frame retainer. 7. Loosely install the front run adjusting bolt and nut. 8. Raise the window halfway and loosely in stall the lower glass stop.
9. Adjust the front run and tighten the retaining nut. 10. Lower the window so that the top of th~ glass is le·1el with the window opening belt line. 11. Install the belt line weatherstrips. 12. Install the door watershield and trim panel.
FRONT DOOR GLASSREMOVAL 1. Remove the trim panel and position the water shield away from the access holes. 2. After removing the stop, lower the glass until the regulator arm roller is out of the glass channel. 3. Unsnap and remove the belt weatherstrips, loosen the front run attaching bolt at the mounting bracket, and remove the bracket attaching bolt from the inner panel. 4. Remove the front run from the division bar by pulling rearward on the edges of the run. 5. Remove the glass.
INSTALLATION
l. Disconnect the glass retainer and remove the channel from the glass. 2. Install the channel, using new retainers. 3. Simultaneously, position the glass and run in the door, and install the belt weatherstrips. 4. Position the regulator arm roller in the channel. and finally position the run in the division bar. 5. Connect the run and bracket, making necessary lateral adjustment. 6. Install the stop, making necessary adjustment. 7. Carefully position the water shield. the inner panel, and install the trim panel. FRONT DOOR WINDOW REGULATOR REMOVAL 1. Remove the trim panel and p~ sition the water shield away from the access holes. 2. Disconnect the regulator from the glass channel roller. 3. Raise the glass by hand and secure it in the raised position.
4. Remove the regulator retaining bolts (Fig. 3). and remove the regulator through the door access hole. INSTALLATION 1. Position the regulator inside the door and install the retaining bolts snugly. 2. Lower the glass and connect the regulator. 3. Check the operation of the glass, adjust it if necessary, and tighten the retaining bolts. 4. Carefully position the water shield to the inner panel and install the trim panel.
REAR DOOR GLASS REMOVAL
l. Remove the door trim panel and watershield. 2. Remove the two screws retaining the regulator roller channel bracket to the lower window channel (Fig. 4) . 3. Remove the lower stop assembly. 4. Remove the screw and nut retaining the rear run retainer and stationary glass. Move the run retainer and glass back and down in the door. 5. Remove the door belt, outside w~atherstrip .
6. Tilt the door window down and then lift it out of the door. 7. Disconnect the glass retainers and remove the glass from the lower channel.
INSTALLATION
I. Install the lower channel on the glass using new retainers. 2. Position the glass and channel assembly in the door. 3. Position the rear run retainer and stationary glass assembly and install the retainer screw and nut. 4. Install the regulator roller channel bracket on the window channel. 5. Install the lower window stop. 6. Install the door trim watershield and the door trim panel. 7. Install the window outside belt weatherstrip.
17-39
PART 17-3- DOORS, WINDOWS, TAILGATE AND DECK LID REAR DOOR WINDOW REGULATOR REMOVAL 1. Remove the trim panel and position the water shield away from the access holes. 2. Disconnect the regulator from the glass channel roller. 3. Raise the glass by hand and secure it in a raised position. 4. Remove the regulator retaining screws and remove the regulator through the door access hole.
INSTALLATION 1. Position the regulator inside the door and install the retaining screws snugly. 2. Lower the glass and connect the regulator. 3. Check. the operation of the glass, adjust it if necessary, and tighten the retaining bolts. 4. Carefully position the water shield to the inner panel and install the trim panel.
REAR QUARTER WINDOW AND/OR WEATHERSTRIP STATION WAGON REMOVAL
INSTALLATION
1. Apply a bead of sealer around the window opening flange. 2. Position the weatherstrip on the glass and install the outer moulding in the weatherstrip. 3. Install a draw cord in the weatherstrip, and apply rubber lubricant to the weatherstrip surfaces that will contact the window opening flange. 4. Position the window assembly to the window O;Jening and use the draw cord to pull the weatherstrip over the window opening flange. S. Using a caulking gun, apply sealer between the outside of the glass and the weatherstrip.
1. Remove the quarter window inside rear garnish moulding. 2. Remove the quarter window outside front moulding (Fig. 6). 3. Working from inside the car, loosen the weatherstrip from the window opening flange, and push the window, weatherstrip and moulding assembly out of the opening. 4. Remove the moulding and weatherstrip from the glass.
6. Install the outside front moulding retaining screws (Fig. 6). 7. Install the inside quarter window gear garnish mouldings.
5. Using solvent, remove all old sealer from the window opening flange, the window and the weatherstrip.
8. Check for water leaks, then clean the glass and mouldings. 2
c
/
/
2
VlEW-A
VIEW-B
VlEW -C
FIG. 6-Stationary Rear Quarter Window -
Wagon
I
VtE W-0
GROUP 17- BODY, DOORS AND WINDOWS
17-40
WINDSHIELD REPLACEMENT PROCEDUKE Before removal of the windshield glass, carefully examine the mouldings, interior and exterior, to locate any areas of moulding interference with the glass which will require rework prior to re-installation to prevent recurrent windshield breakage. Prior to removing the windshield proceed as follows: 1. Remove the wiper arm and blade assemblies. 2. Remove the cowl top ventilator grille panel retaining screws and remove the cowl top ventilator grille panel. 3. Unsnap the upper moulding retainers using the special tool and RETA I~R
At1H£R
.SliRI74C£
remove the outside top moulding. 4. Remove the outside side moulding retaining screws and remove the outside side moulding. 5. Remove the outside lower moulding retainer retaining screws. Remove the outside lower moulding and retainers. 6. Remove the sun visor and bracket assemblies. 7. Remove the interior garnish mouldings.
Removal (Fig. 7): 1. If the glass has been broken, remove loose glass fragments. Beginning at the comer, peel the butyl
·Iii IUQ 'D
~ ~PPt.ICD
£tTHLR Sl« ()." WINDSHIILD OP£N1Ne .
TO BODY
O'Otl'iti . - - DIN£NSIONS !'DR IJI/T>'L "It> GLASS CONYACT Alfl' SIIOWN IN VICWJ '. IIOTC ' GLA3S NIJST /J£ C£N17:/KD IN IW""'-D
'¥1-
ON IJNDERSID£ or GI.A5.S ASSY. 1'011 APPI.CATION NVST IJ£ IJNirof(lf WITH NO SI(IPS ~CR/IfiSSI6LE. ALLOW 20 SECONDS NINIJWH DltYINO Tll't£ At~
4
AROUNO £ NTtlt£ PUUNCT£Jt O'
WIND$H~tD OI'Eit~ .
3
tape seal away from the body pinch weld ftange by grasping the seal near the flange and pulling directly away. If the glass is not broken it can be removed by using a piece of small diameter piano wire to cut the butyl. The piano wire is threaded through the butyl tape leaving about ten inches of wire on either side of the glass. Each end of the wire is wrapped around small wood dowels to permit the operator to firmly grasp the wire and with a sawing motion cut the butyl. 2. Remove the window from the body opening. CAUTION: Care must be .used to prevent cutting the rubber tip on existing retainers or lower glass supports.
) SEAL A$5Y • Wl/rrOSHIClO GlASS ,
TO INSTAlLATION
APPI.IED 10 - ENS/016 SilO- IN VI£WS"8 : o 4 G AROUND ENTIRE PERI!tf£T£R OF WIN(JS/1/CLD Ol'rNtNG AI"TCR INSTAl lATION 0" R£Ti'. IN£/i. l"r£/11 I SEAL ASSY. HIJST ~£ C 1./T ON ANGCC A !5 .SNOWir IN VIEW '1-1' AND £~ Ht.IST 6UTT , A Pf'ROX. AT CINTfR 0'
£-
GI.ASS ASSY·IOIIOD~ GLASS ASSY·-c>SH~C) ..)t.Cf.AIW: BY PfM5S/IIG IN PI.ACC 10MSUW A COHI'I.C'f'E SIAL AlfO<.NIJ PrRIIWTE"f OF" WJNDSJ«r.D
!f.
OAr- ~UCN 1'11AT TN£ 01rrrc..a - l A SIDE ItA~ 1$ 11t1T GRCA"IW"~ "!"NAN ·"'0 ALOM> £1mRC "A' PILJ.Aif .
0' GLASS A$SY·
!II'MC£R ASSY. · WINDSHieLD IOLASS LOWCR · I "1"00 · ATTACH CACH -4SsY Wmt
~
A. SCIIUI flllt · 51
Z Rl.f:IIJIIIO>
7
:ZAL£1?(8LACif) ·ALL YEHICUS · ltllll MAD Al'lf.l£0 M7Wr£N ~ A.JSY, 11'CN J ,AND IIOD'I ' ALL AIIOVND AFT£/f IISTALLAT10N 01' &ASS ASSY. ITCN S .S£C VICW t-: ~ -~LDCIASI« 701"
15 '
":JI.Jt.DIIiriG ASSY -
WINDSHIELD ourstD£ SID£ .
10. WHCN A 'MHOSHIELD ..,.AtS 1l) l'f£E T "DfE
0\li!ltLAP I. Pfii/IIE
-£/'1£~ .
EDGE
CY ,GLA$$ A/liD NINIItfUN 040 ,
0111'51/IE SIIIFN:E AT AR£"' OF PDM OVIlRL.AP .
Z. ALLO/tlf 10 ·S«
.!J:
II.· 1101./LDIHG WINOSHI£LD OUTSIO~ TOP COI#NIIf 1Jt lf~'D . SECURE £ACH NOI.IlDING • ._ CLI-NG Ollif SID£ ANO T'OP ltiOULDINGS . IZ
ltiOULDI"i(J WINDSHICLD OUTS« BCLT ' I' "flO 'D . SECUIIC LACN I«JUU.DIN(; W!Tit THC 'Ott.OW.tiiG ITEIII$
Z
,lf£TA1HIIf. NOIJL~
Y
WIND$Nin0 .EL T
• 7 RCQ"D . ~CREW
- 7 R£Q 'Q .
13
SAACER
WINDSNICLD
OUTSIJ¥_ ULT HOULDtNG - ~ ltlQ 'D
PRErERR£0
CVT. DPT'ION.IU. CUT.
FIG. 7Windshield Installation
~ '
-15 WI()TH riSI/Jl£ CONTACT ( TYPICAL ) . / " , NOTC: · tltR£GUI.AIItriCS 0' l l.NIN. WfD'r/1 AlfL ACCEPTA6L£ NIOYIDING T~L'r
DO NOT EW:ECD
THE I'CIUOWIMI . i 'NAX lENG"nt lAC/If ONC(I} PCR IS" SCG/fENT TrN (I O)'rOTAL Eln'!IIC P£/fi JiwCJ!f.Y.
.......,~,..,.._
PART 17-3- DOORS, WINDOWS, TAILGATE AND DECK LID 3. Remove and retain the lower rubber glass supports from the windshield. 4. Clean body flanges thoroughly
by removing all butyl tape and if vinyl top model, removt! any excess vinyl top cement in the sealing area. If the glass has previously teen replaced using a different sealer, the old adhesive must be completely removed from the pinch weld flange. 5. Examine the glass opening pinch weld flange and rework if ree>uired to eliminate high-low areas on flange. Paint repair as required .
INSTALLATION If a new windscreen is being fitted, attach the bracket rear view mirror to the windscreen in the position shown in Fig. 22 . Using Arildite or similar adhesive, apply masking tape over the bracket to ensure the bracket does not move during windscreen installation and adhesive curing time. 1. Based on the initial moulding and glass examinations, rework exterior and j or interior mouldings to eliminate any points of moulding interference with the glass.
7. Cement spacers to pinch flange with rubber cement as shown in Fig. 8.
8. Temporarily position replacement glass in opening and adjust to the best glass to body pinch weld overlap position. Mark this location with crayon. Remove the glass and clean the glass thoroughly. 9. Apply the primer, furnished in the kit, to the entire pinch flange' and around the entire perimeter of the underside and edge of the g·lass that will contact the sealer. (Refer to Fig. 8). 10. Place cartridge in caulking gun and pump out a 5/16" diameter bead along the sealing surface of the glass opening.
11. Place glass in position using the crayon mark on the glass to locate the glass in the body open· in g. ~OTE: The side windows should be opened and left open for at least one half hour after repair so the new glass is not forced out of position if the doors are slammed shut.
17-41
least ss•F to insure satisfactory curing of the sealer.
Subsequent replacements of glass can be made in the following manner: When a windshield glass is re· moved which had previously been installed with the same type of sealer, it is not necessary to remove all of the sealer from the body glass opening. The remaining film of sealer on the body flange can be used as a base for the new application of sealer. IMPORTANT: If any doubt exists as to whether the old sealer is of the same type as the new sealer, then remove all of the old sealer and prime the pinchweld flange.
BACK WINDOW AND/OR WEATHERSTRIP
REMOVAL 2. Procure a windscreen replacement kit. 3. and sure and
Check all moulding retainers replace or repair them to in· adequate moulding retention glass positioning.
4. On vinyl top Model: Apply masking tape or other protective material over vinyl roof cover in area of the glass opening to aid in clean-up operations after the glass installation. 5. Reinstall the lower supports (removed in Step 4 of removal procedure). 6. Fabricate four rubber spacers x f' x I" from mechanical rubber.
c"
12. Clean excess sealer from the glass with a razor blade and wipe off with a clean cloth dampened with a glass cleaner. 13. Visually inspect appearance of sealer through the glass. Dull spots indicate areas where sealer is not contacting the glass surface. Repair these areas by applying additional sealer.
14. Allow the sealer to cure before reinstalling any mouldings to avoid cementing the mouldings to the sealer, then reinstall the mouldings. NOTE: Cure time is seven hours in temperatures over 70•F. The temperature of the area where this work is performed should be at
l. From in3ide the car, hosen the weatherstrip edges and then push out the back window and weatherstrip as an assembly .
2. Place the window assembly on a bench and remove the mouldings and weatherstrip from the glass.
INSTALLATION - (Fig . 9). 1. Clean the glass, weathentrip and the body opening flange. 2. Using a sealer gum, apply sealer in the weatherstrip glass opening. 3. Position the weatherstrip on the glass, and then install the mouldings in the weatherstr:p.
17-42
GROUP 17- BODY, DOORS AND WINDOWS RU68ER SPACER (FOUR RECUIRED)
REFER VIEW '8' FOR PRIMER APPLICATION
VIEW 'A'
APPLY PRIMER TO UNDERSIDE AND E OGE OF GLASS AND TO METAL SURFACE - - - -
FIG. &-Windshield Replacement
PART 17-3- DOORS, WINDOWS, TAILGATE AND DECK LID
S EC
17-43
A
SEC
8
6
CIR CLe(.
FIG. 9- Back Window Installation---- Utility 4. Insert the draw cord in the weatherstrip, and apply rubber lubricant to the weatherstrip surfaces that will contact the back window opening flange.
3. Remove the regulator arms from the window regulator channel and remove the window assembly.
5. Using a sealer gun, apply a bead of sealer completely around the back window openin!; .
1. With a glass remover tool, r emove the glass lower retainer and channel assembly and then clean the glass groove.
6. Position the window assembly in the body opening . With a helper applying hand pressure from the outside, use the draw cord to pull the lips of the weatherstrip over the window opening flanges . 7. Clean the window and mouldings.
TAILGATE GLASS REMOVAL 1. Open the tailgate and remove the trim panel and watershield.
2. On power operated models, turn the right hand side lock pivot to the closed position and raise the window partially out of the gate. On manually operated models wind the window partially out using the handle.
INSTALLATION
2. Position the weatherstrip into the glass lower channel. Install the weatherstrip and channel to the g-lass. 3. Position the window assembly in the gate and install the regulator arms to the regulator channel. Lower the window into the tailgate. 4. Install the tailgate watershield and trim panel.
TAILGATE WINDOW HANDLE AND LOCK CYLINDER-MANUAL REMOVAL Refer to Fig. 12 for views of th e assembly.
1. Remove the taiigate trim J:anel and watershield and align a ccess holes in regulator asemblsy with those in tailgate inner panel.
2. Unscrew the two nut and washer assemblies fastening the window handle assembly to the tailgate and remove the handle assembly, the regulator stem socket, the spring and the rubber pad. 3. To remove the lock cylinder, turn the key in the cylinder to align the cylinder locking pin with the access hole in the handle assembly. Depress the locking pin and remove the lock cylinder.
INSTALLATION I. To replace the Jock cylinder, transfer the 0 ring, and then with
the key in the cylinder, install the lock cylinder in the handle assembly. 2. Relocate the parts removed and replace the two nut and washer assemblies and tighten securely.
GROUP 17- BODY, DOORS AND WINDOWS
17-44
S ECTf()N- AA
44 6, C . 0, £, G, H
MODElS
SECTION- 66
c
SCCTION· CC
~--_:::::::; -
~-~
FIG. 9A Back window installation - Sedan -MOlllL
84CJI' WINDOW AND
~1
A
EXTERIOR MOl/WINGS rOR AlL 54 MODELS
(!)
!!>lACK SEALER APPUef) AKOUNO lNTtJ.t h .. !-': METER OF !JACK WINDOW :JPENING.
@
WEATHER STRIP AS5Y. BACK WINDOW nmJJ ON ALL .54 MODELS EXCEPT "
@)
MO:Jl O ING bACJt' WINI>OW OiJfj/lJE U~PlR R£QU/4t.O FVRAll :~4 MCJ{)EL~ EXCtPT 5-/ -1 ATTACH TO W/STRIP A~" SHOWN
(3:)
MOUlDING BACK WINDOW OUTS![)£ lOWEk lfEQIJ/{(1[) fOR AlL .54 MObllS EXCEI'T 44A ATrACH TO W(STRIP AS 5HOWN
WfATNERSTIIIP ASSY lw:l< WIN{)()IV IIE~D fOil 44A ONLY
@ (Z)
MOULD/NV BACK W!Nl>OW OUTSIDE LOWE!? I(EQ'D
S"'f ;II MODE£.
NOTE:
ONlY
ArTEA APPliCATION o,lJIArK .'i/A/li?-I.XOSS !>lt4llR lrll/ST M W!Pl. "[) ("[ EAN FROM £- LASS A.~·.r.y, Kl A Till~ StRIP ASSY M0l/LDING5 A/IV All /JODY S'./RFA(L:::,
->£TAll /IF
._ ffl r
l £
f'
PART 17-3- DOORS, WINDOWS, TAILGATE AND DECK LID
17-45
II
1/
~ ~li '
TYPICAL 2 P LACES EACH SlDE
L~ I
VIEW-F
VIEW-H
FIG. 10 Tailgate weatherstrip installation
1. Moulding Assy- Back Window Outside Side 2. Weatherstrip & Assy - T /gate 3. Moulding - Back Window Outside Upper 4. Run Assy- Back Window Glass Top 5. Retainer Assy - Back Window Glass Ru n 6. Retainer - Back Window Moulding O utside - Upper 7. Sealer - Gray or Black . 19 Dia . 10 Pl aces Vi ew " 8 " 8. Alternate Sealer - Pressu re Sensitive o n o ne Wide Side On ly. Applied Entire Length of Retainer - Item 5 See View A. C, D & H . 10. Adhesive Sealer - . 19 D ia. Bead as Shown Each Side V iew " C & H " 1 1. Black Tape 1.00 x 6.00 Long - Each Side of Car o n We ld F lan ge 12. Sealer- Black .25 Dia . to fill Space Betwe en Fl ange and Mo uld ing Back WindoliV Cu tside Upper- View "A" 13. Adhesive- Applied Between Items 4 and 2 afte r Posit io ning
'~
A . Screw B. Screw C. Nut & Washer Assy D . Screw
17-46
GROUP 17- BODY, DOORS AND WINDOWS
FIG. 11 Single action tailgate l')inges and locks
1. Striker- T/gate Upper RH 2. Stop - T /gate Check Cable Spring 3. Bushing- T /gate Counter Balance Torsion Bar 4. Bracket - T /gate Counter Balance Torsion Bar on Body 5. Retainer- T/gate C/balance Torsion Bar on Body 6. Cable Assy- Tailgate Check 7. Spring- T /gate Check Cable R H 8. Hinge Assy - T /gate R H 9. Striker Assy- T /gate Upper Latch LH 10. Hinge Assy T/gate LH 11. Spring T /gate Check Cable LH 12. Cable Assy - T /gate Check
A. Screw- Torque 17-27 lbs ft. B. Shim C. Sealer- Gray or Black, .19 Dia. 15 places D. Nut & Washer Assy- Torque 25-38 lbs ft. E. Bolt Truss Head F. Washer FIat G. Screw & Washer Assy- Torque 25-38 lbs ft. H. Shim J. Nut & Washer Assy- Torque 25-38 lbs ft. K.Shim L. Screw- Torque 17-27 lbs ft. M. Screw & Washer- Torque 25-38 lbs ft. S. Washer FIat
PART 17-3- DOORS, WINDOWS, TAILGATE AND DECK LID
17--47
on the lock cylinder and install the spring clip. 3. The window may now be wounc;l to the open (in) position. 4. Return the catch pawl on the right-hand side lock assembly to the open position. 5. Install the tailgate cover panel and replace the retaining screws.
/l
SOCKET RETAINING
/
SP~IHG
PIEGULATOR HANDL! AS5£M&LY
PAD
FIG. 12-Tailgate
Handle and Lock Cylinder
3. Replace the watershield and trim panel. TAILGATE SWITCH AND LOCK CYLINDER POWER
REMOVAL Refer to Fig. 13 for views of the assembly. 1. Wind down the window and open the tailgate. 2. Remove the tailgate cover panel retaining screws and remove the panel. 3. Rotate the catch pawl on the right-hand side lock assembly to the closed position. The tailgate window may now be wound to the closed (out) position. The glass must be supported while in this position. 4. Detach the spring clip and remove the switch assembly from the lock cylinder. 5. The clip retaining the lock cylinder may now be removed enabling the lock cylinder to be withdrawn.
CYLI~DE R RETAI~ER
INSTALLATION 1. Insert the lock cylinder in the tailgate outer panel and install the retaining clip. 2. Replace the switch assembly
FIG. 13-Tailgate Lock Cylinder (Power)
17-48
GROUP 17- BODY
DOORS AND WINDOWS
FIG. 14-Deck Lid Torsion Bar DUAL ACTION TAILGATES DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Dual action tailgates are available with manual or power rear window operation. The Dual action tailgate can be opened in the normal manner (same as single action) or it can be swung from left to right. The ·right side hinges are designed to accommodate both vertical and horizontal opening. To open the gate vertically , wind the window down, lift the lock-bar and lower the tailgate. To open the tailgate horizontally, lower the window, turn the outside handle and swing the tailgate to the right. If the tailgate has been opened horizontally, and vertical opening is desired, the tailgate must be closed before vertical release is possible and vice-versa.
ADJUSTMENTS While full adjustments are pro-
vided for the dual action tailgate, no unique methods are employed. The following information will assist in locating and performing tailgate adjustments to obtain the clearances shown in Fig. 17. The fore and aft and up and down adjustment of the tailgate is accomplished at the hinge side by means of square holes in the body pillar, backed by floating tapping plates, at the upper and lower hinge attachments (Figs. 16 - 17). Lateral adjustment of the tailgate is accomplished at the upper hinge by adding or removing spacer shims between the hinge on the body and the pillar. Lateral adjustment at the lower hinge is accomplished by means of oversize holes in the tailgate at the hinge on the gate attachment (Figs.
16- 17). Fore and aft and up and down adjustment of the strikers is accomplished by means of square holes in
the pillar backed by floating tapping plates. Lateral adjustment is accomplished by adding or removing shims (Fig. 5).
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION TAILGATE ASSEMBLY REMOVAL l. Lower the tailgate vertically. 2. Remove the right hand cover hinge outer bolts to body. 3. Close the tailgate and swing it open horizon tally. 4. Disconnect the power window wiring (if fitted). 5. Support the tailgate and remove the remaining right hand hinge to body bolts and vertical opening support cable. 6. Remove the tailgate from the vehicle.
PART 17-3- DOORS, WINDOWS, TAILGATE AND DECK LID
17-49
FIG. 15- Dual Tailgate Lock & Handle Installation
JIOTE:
APPLY (ESB-MlC93· A) UIBRICHfl' '1'0 Eln'IR! ~ACE <7 IT!)( lO, '1'0 A~&IR E PIIOPER I liST; ~TION OP' !lA !rOLE ASSY. Il'EII 13. THE IJR.I..IN5 I~ ''L'' , IllS'!' 8!: Ill '1'1!:: 000'11 POSITION 1-Im MEDALLIOII ON IIA!rDLE MUST !IIi UPRIGII'I WIIEJI wlNDOo I 5 Ill CLO:i£0 ?OSITIOII. ~KE'I', IT!:M 10, MUST BE IIISTALLED JI'l'll ii!l:t1', ITEM '' H" Ill IJF P031TION A3 !IIOW!f Ill • PA'JI. I'l'!)l "M" Ill IIA!rDLE
,:;;;," '!., I'l'EM 13.
1. Regulator Assy - Back Window 2. Glass & Channel Assy- Back Window 3. Run & Retainer Assy- Back Window Glass Lower Side LH 4. Bracket Assy - Back Window Regulator 5. Bumper - Back Window Stop 6. Run & Retainer Assy- Back Window Glass Lower Side RH 7. Handle & Housing Assy- T /gate 8. Pad T /gate Outside Handle 9. Bracket - T /gate Outside Handle 10. Socket- Back Window Regulator Stem 11 . Pad - Back Window Regulator Socket Retaining 12. Pad - Back Window Regulator Handle 13. Handle Assy- Back Window Regulator 14. Lock Set
15. Lock Set (Power)
16. Retainer- Door Lock Cylinder 17. Switch Assy- Window Regulator Control 18. Retainer- Window Regulator Switch 19. Sealer .25 Dia. Bead A B C D E F G K
Screw & Washer Assy - Torque 8-13 lbs. ft. Screw Screw & Washer Assy - Tor que 8-13 lbs. ft. Nut & Washer Assy - Torque 8-13 lbs. ft. Screw & Washer Assy - Torque 8-13 lbs. ft. Nut & Washer Assy - Torque 6-11 lbs. ft. Nut & Washer Assy -Torque 13-32 lbs. ft. Seal- "0" Ring
17-50
GROUP 17- BODY, DOORS AND WINDOWS
FIG. 16- Dual Tailgate Hinges 1. Hinge Assy- Tailgate Upper on Body 2. Bushing -Tailgate Counter Balance Torsion Bar on Body 3. Bracket T/gate C/balance Torsion Bar on Body 4. Retainer T/gate C/balance Torsion Bar on Body 5. Cable Assy - T /gate Check 6. Hinge Assy - T /gate Lower R H 7. Striker Assy- T/gate Upper Latch LH 8. Striker Assy - T /gate Lower Lock 9. Shim A Screw & Washer Assy- Torque 25-38 lbs. ft. B Spacer T/gate Upper Hinge on Body
C D E. F G H J K L M N P
Sealer Grey or Black .19 Dia. or Bulk 14 Places Nut & Washer Assy- Torque 25-38 lbs. ft. Bolt-washer Head Shoulder -Torque 17-27 lbs. ft. Washer - Flat Bolt Truss Head -Torque 17-27 lbs. ft . Spring - T /gate Check Cable R H Screw & Washer Assy- Torque 25-38 lbs. ft. Nut & Washer Assy -Torque 25-38 lbs. ft . Shim Screw - Tor que 17-27 lbs. ft. Screw- Torque 17-27 lbs. ft. Shim
PART 17-3- DOORS, WINDOWS, TAILGATE AND DECK LID
17-51
AnrtJ9J'MEJI1' ~ IATCI COift'AOL AKD JWIDL£ SY$ ':)t ~ AAJUm., U:.: A.aGLJ, WITH CO!ri'ROL AS311eLI, I'l'DI 9 1 LOOSE, ftE U'l'CR Assr.LY, nDI 11. KJS!' BE IW 'fBI lA'JICII!l) HAIDLl ASSDCBLT, IT!Jf 3, A.IID UlfK AsaDG:lUIS, POSJTlOI AID W! t'All.OA~ U'l"C'R OPDU.TIIm IZYD , I'l'EMS 2 .&IC> .. , M! 183T.nLED. LA'rCH. TKE LA'ICH PAift ~ LA.'l'Cll ~L!, lTDI S, '«191 U I..GAIIIS!' 1-s.:natLT, I~"'! S· str B.UDU: A.iSE)(BJ.Y, JTDI ftl SI'OP ta 'ftiB lMAC'ftiATED POsmOS, R2 11'111 3, · r:;.'IIf3T ft'J38Dt SI'OPj, I'l'Dt .. Z". SE:I VI~ •M" II r10Uitl 1, LlJ8C ASSDGLY, IT'Dl 16, JIIAJ "C" . .:i!'I GS U?r~ U'll£ LEVER A6 SHOW. VIEW Kill • lWIJl'.aWD M.\liTA.llfl~ TilE A.1JOVS CC*DI· "D", ROl'AT! COIRROL ASSDOLT TO REMOVE ~CK TICIIS. '10 Carlt ADJ\Jrmal' ~:CT!~ CCJWmOL ASSICBLY A'M'ACHJNC PAin'S, K7ft 1. lOrE ~.
UPPDt LA'rCII lTDC S Nl131' !101' LA'l'CII WD'R I.CIWllt LA'l'CII 1'1'111 17 IS II OPEl POtm'lOif. ELICTRIC \llJXN Jti:CJJLA~ 11119'1' .aT OPERATE WREI U'PP'ER Lo\'ICB I'l'Dt ~ I8 II 01'!1 PO$JTIC'
8
~~
'e
lOft:
.:rrl.,
ALL PAM'S, PIYO'I' POlin'S, OUIIZS AID LA'lal ASSDGILIES 'nlAT RAVE 1101' BED W.ICAT!D AT .!IXR:E IE waiCAftD ~E ASSDIBLT WITI (ESBIUC93·A)
,_,91'
/8
APPLT (•S8-MlC9)·A) WliiiCAIT A'l! AltUS "W"', •x" • " Y".
FIG. 17-Dual Tailgate Lock Mechanism 1. Hinge Assy -Tailgate Upper on Body 2. Rod - Door Lock Control LH 3. Rod - Door Lock to Handle 4. Rod- Door Lock Control RH 5. Lock - Assy Upper LH 6. Bushing- Torsion Bar 7. Cover-T/gate Access Hole 8. Retainer- Torsion Bar 9. Control Assy - Door Lock
10. Torsion Bar Assy 11. Valve- T/gate Drain 12. Hinge Assy- Lower RH on Body 13. Hinge Assy- Lower RH on T/gate 14. Bracket - T /gate Torsion Bar Link 15. Rod- T/gate Safety Release 16. Rod- Lower Left Lock 17. Lock Assy- Lower LH 18. Grommet- T/gate Handle Rod
17-52
GROUP 17- BODY, DOORS AND WINDOWS
DUAL-ACTION TAILGATE POWER WINDOW SWITCH AND MANUAL CONTROL HANDLE Removal and installation procedures for manual and power window control handle and switch are the same as for single action tailgates. See Page 17-43 DUAL-ACTION TAILGATE HINGESUpper Right Hinge 1. Open the tailgate (horizontally, as a dropgate) and scribe a location mark around that part of hinge to be replaced. 2. Remove the hinge retainer screws. 3. Position the hinge to the scribe marks and install the retainer screws. lower Right Hinge 1. Open the tailgate (horizontally, as a dropgate) and position a support under the hinge side of the gate. 2. Remove the torsion bar link. 3. Scribe the hinge location on the body and the tailgate. Remove the hinge retainer screws and remove the hinge. 4. Position the hinge to the body and tailgate scribe marks and install the hinge retainer screws. 5. Close the tailgate and check for proper lower hinge alignment. Adjust the hinge if necessary. 6. Reconnect the torsion bar link . DUAL-ACTION TAILGATE LATCHESleft lower latch 1. Open the tailgate (side opening). Remove the tailgate trim panel, watershield and access panel. 2. Disconnect the linkage from the latch. Remove the three retaining screws and remove the latch. 3. Transfer the linkage retainer clips to the new latch. Position the latch in the gate and install the retainer screws. 4. Install the linkage to the latch. Install the access cover, watershield and trim panel. left Upper latch 1. Open the tailgate (side opening). Remove the tailgate trim panel, water-
shield and access panel. 2. Engage the upper latch pawl to the closed position and raise the window partially out of the gate. Remove the regulator arms from the window regulator channel and remove the window assembly. 3. Disconnect the linkage at the upper latch. Remove the wire connector from the upper latch safety switch. 4. Remove the right guide upper retainer bolt. Remove the three screws, retaining the latch and remove the latch assembly. 5. Transfer the linkage retainer clips and the safety switch to the new latch assembly. 6. Position the latch in the gate and install the latch retainer screws. Install the window guide upper retainer bolt. 7. Connect the wire connector to the switch and connect the linkage to the Ia tch. 8. Position the window assembly in the gate and install the regulator arms to the regulator channel. Close latch pawl to engage the switch and lower the window into the tailgate. 9. Install the tailgate access panel, watershield, and trim panel. Open the upper latch and close the tailgate. Check the latch alignment to the striker. Adjust the latch striker if necessary. TORSION BAR 1. Lower the tailgate vertically and remove the torsion bar link and the torsion bar to tailgate brackets and bolts along the tailgate lower edge. NOTE : The torsion bar will be under light tension at this stage. 2. Remove the torsion bar from the vehicle. DUAL-ACTION TAILGATE VERTICAL LATCH RELEASE HANDLE1. Remove the rod retainer from the rod at the latch release handle. 2. Remove two screws attaching the latch release handle to the tailgate. Disengage the handle from the rod and remove the handle. 3. Position the latch release handle to the tailgate and rod, and install the two attaching screws. 4. Install the rod retainer at the release handle.
DUAL-ACTION TAILGATE VERTICAL LATCH RELEASE CONTROL Removal 1. Remove the interior trim panel from the tailgate. 2. Raise the glass part way out of the tailgate. 3. Disconnect the three links (rods) from the latch release control (Fig. 17). 4. Remove three latch release control attaching screws, and remove the control from the tailgate. Installation
1. Position the latch release control to the tailgate and install the three attaching screws snug. 2. Connect the three links (rods) to the latch release control. 3. Lower the glass and adjust the latch release control. 4. Install the trim panel on the tailgate. DUAL-ACTION TAILGATE . HORIZONTAL LA TCK RELEASE (OUTSIDE) HANDLE Removal 1. Remove the interior trim panel and access cover from the tailgate. 2. Remove the glass and channel assembly from the tailgate. 3. Remove two nuts retaining the handle to the tailgate. Remove the handle bracket and handle from the tailgate 4. Remove the lock cylinder from the handle. Installation 1. Install the lock cylinder in the outside handle. 2. Position the outside handle and handle bracket to the tailgate and install the two retaining nuts (Fig. IS.). 3. Install the glass and channel assembly. 4. Install the access cover and the trim panel on the tailgate.
TAILGATE WINDOW REGULATOR The procedure for removal of the Dual action tailgate glass and regulator assembly is the same as for single action tailgates. See Page 17-43
PART 17-3- DOORS, WINDOWS, TAILGATE AND DECK LID DECK LID HINGE OR TORSION BAR
REMOVAL 1. Prop the deck lid open.
2. Mark the hinge position on the lid and on the mounting bracket for reference when a new hinge is installed. 3. Pry the anchor end of the torsion bar out of its adjustment notch (Fig. 14). Lower the deck lid
and from inside the luggage compartment remove the bar. 4. Position a cover under the hinge edge of the deck lid to prevent paint damage. Remove the hinge attaching bolt from the deck lid and from the mounting bracket, and remove the hinge. INSTALLATION 1. Position the hinge, and partially tighten the mounting bolts. 2. Remove the protective cover and install the torsion bar, reversing the procedure in step 3 above. The
17-53
farther rearward the anchor end is twisted, the greater the tension. 3. Remove the prop and check the lid position. After any necessary adjustment, tighten the hinge attaching bolts. DECK LID LOCK 1. Unlock and open the deck lid. 2. Remove the bolts retaining the lock assembly and remove the lock. 3. Position the lock assembly t<' the deck lid and loosely install the retaining bolts. 4. Adjust the lock assembly and tighten the bolts. DECK LID LOCK CYLINDER REMOVAL 1. Open the deck lid and remove the lock assembly and the door lock extension. 2. Remove the sleeve assembly retaining nut, lock washer, spacer, and sleeve and cylinder (Fig. 18) 3. To remove the lock cylinder from the sleeve assembly, turn the key in the cylinder Vs turn clockwise from the locked position, depress the cylinder retaining pin, and remove the key and cylinder. INSTALLATION 1. To install the lock cylinder and insert the cylinder into the sleeve assembly. 1. Position the sleeve assembly turn the key in the cylinder Vs turn clockwise from the locked position spacer, and washer to the deck lid door and install the retaining nut: 3. Position the door lock extension, install the lock assembly and adjust it.
FIG. 18-Deck Lid Lock Installation 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 1. A B
Weatherstrip - Luggage Compt. Door Latch Assy - Luggage Compt. Door Retainer - Luggage Compartment Door Lock Cylinder Pad- Luggage Compartment Door Lock Cylinder Extension- Luggage Compartment Door Lock Cylinder Lock Set Striker- Luggage Compartment Door Lock Adhesive -Apply a .25 Max. Bead to Bottom of Weatherstrip Trough Adhesive -Apply a .093 approx. Bead Under Outboard Lip of Luggage Compartment Weatherstrip After Installation of Weatherstrip in Trough. Application of Adhesive Must Extend Downward on Vertical Surface as Shown in View "A" C Screw & Washer Assy D Screw & Washer Assy
GROUP 17- BODY, DOORS AND WINDOWS
17-54 POWER WINDOWS
DESCRIPTION Each door window is controlled by a separate switch set into the door trim panel. The rear and front passenger windows can also be con-
D
trolled from the master switch panel in the driver's door. Included in the master switch panel is a "lock out" switch which prevents operation of the rear and front passenger windows by the
individual door switches. Wiring schematics for power win· dows are in Group 22, Fig. 2 of this manual. Wiring and switch installation is as shown in Fig. 20 • 21 of this part.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DOOR AND QUARTER POWER WINDOWS
Before making any of the following trouble checks, mare sure that the battery is fully charged, and turn the ignition switch to the accessory position. ALL WINDOWS DO NOT OPERATE 1. Connect a voltmeter or test light from a ground to the power window relay red/blue wire which is connected to the 20-ampere circuit breaker attached to the battery terminal of the starting motor relay. If no voltage is available, repair or replace the 20-ampere circuit breaker or the connecting black wire. 2. Connect a voltmeter from a ground to the red wire terminal of the power window relay. If no voltage is available, repair or replace the ignition switch or the red wire from the ignition switch to the relay. 3. Connect a voltmeter from a ground to the remaining terminal blue wire of the power window relay. If no voltage is available, replace the power window relay. 4. Check the blue ·wire at the master control switch for voltage. If no voltage is available, repair or replace the blue wire from the master control switch to the power window relay. 5. At this point the trouble caus-
ing all windows not to operate should have been found and corrected. The chances of having all of the control switches, ground circuit breakers, switch to motor wires, or motor defective at the same time are very remote. ONE WINDOW DOES NOT OPERATE 1. Activate the switch and listen for the motor running free. If tb,e motor runs and the window does not move, the rubber coupling or gear teeth have failed. 2. If the motor does not run, disconnect the wires at the motor in order to check for voltage at each feed wire while actuating the window switch at the door or from the master switch. If there is no voltage at the motor feed terminals, check for voltage at the switch feed wire. If there is voltage at the switch, replace the switch. WINDOW OPERATES IN ONE DIRECTION ONLY 1. Check the operation with the individual and master switches. Replace a defective switch if the window operates normally from one and not from the other. 2. If the window will not function correctly from either switch, check for defective wiring between the
switch disconnects and the motor. If the wiring leads are open, replace the wiring. 3. If the window operates normally in one direction, the motor is not defective. WINDOW OPERATES SLUGGISHLY 1. Check the regulator and window runs for binding. Adjust the runs, repair and lubricate the regulator. Lubricate the runs with silicone lubricant. 2. Check for frayed insulation where the window wires may partially ground. Check for loose connections which will cause high resistance, and make sure that paint is not insulating the ground wires. 3. Check motor current draw during operation (place an ammeter in series with the ground lead of the battery). Motor current draw should not exceed 12 amperes during normal operation and should exceed 20 amperes at stall. If the current draw is above 12 amperes during operation of the window, readjust the glass mechanism. If the stall current is below 20 amperes at stall, look for poor electrical connections. 4. Motor current draw when disconnected from the regulator plate should not exceed 5 amperes.
PART 17-3- DOORS, WINDOWS, TAILGATE AND DECK LID
EJ
17-SS
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
POWER WINDOW RELAY
REMOVAL 1. Disconnect the ground cable from the battery. 2. Remove two screws attaching the relay to the right side of the dash panel in the engine compartment. 3. Disconnect the wires from the relay and remove the relay. INSTALLATION 1. Connect the wires to the relay. 2. Position the relay to the dash panel and install the two attaching screws. 3. Connect the battery ground cable, and check the operation of the power window(s). POWER WINDOW SWITCH
1. Remove the trim panel. 2. Disconnect the wire connector from the window switch. 3. Remove the switch attaching screws and remove the switch from the trim panel. 4. Position the switch and retainer to the trim panel and install the attaching screws. 5. Connect the wire connector to the window switch and install the trim panel. FRONT DOOR WINDOW REGULATOR-AND / OR MOTOR
REMOVAL 1. Reinove the trim panel and watershield from the door. 2. Remove two screws attaching the regulator arm roller bracket to the door inner panel and remove the bracket. 3. Disconnect the motor wires at the connector. 4. Remove the motor bracket-todoor inner panel attaching screw. 5. Remove four screws attaching the window regulator to the door inner panel. Support the glass and channel assembly and disengage the regulator arm roller from the glass channel. Then, lay the window regulator in the bottom of the door panel. 6. Remove the lower stop from the door inner panel. 7. Remove the window regulator assembly from the door.
8. If equipped with electric windows, mount the regulator assembly in a vise. Drill a -& inch hole through the regulator sector gear and the regulator plate (Fig. 19). Install a l inch bolt and nut in the hole to prevent the sector gear from moving ~hen the motor and drive assembly 1s removed. Remove the motor assembly from the regulator. INSTALLATION 1. Lubricate the glass mechanism: 2. Position the motor and transmission to the regulator and install the three attaching screws. 3. Position the regulator assembly in the door. 4. Insert the front run and retainer into the vent window division bar. 5. Position the glass and channel assembly in the front and rear runs. Raise ¢.e glass and support in the up position. Install the washer and nut on the vent window division bar lower adjusting screw. 6. Insert the regulator arm roller in the glass channel bracket. Then position the regulator assembly to the door inner panel and install the four attaching screws. 7. Position the regulator arm roller bracket to the regulator arm roller
and the door inner panel and install the two attaching screws. 8. Position the motor bracket to door inner panel and install attaching screw. Connect the motor wires and fit trim panel. REAR DOOR WINDOW REGULATOR- AND/OR MOTOR
REMOVAL 1. Remove the trim panel and watershield from the door. 2. Disconnect the motor wires at the connector. 3. Remove the equalizer arm bracket from die door inner panel. 4. Support the glass and channel assembly and remove the three glass channel bracket attaching screws. Separate the glass channel bracket from the regulator arm rollers. 5. Remove the screw attaching the motor bracket to the door inner panel. 6. Remove four window regulator attaching screws and remove the regulator from the door. 7. Remove the motor from the regulator. If equipped with electric windows, mount the regulator assembly in a vise. Drill a -& inch hole through the regulator sector gear and the regulator plate (Fig. 19). Install a ! inch bolt and nut in the hole to prevent the sector gear from moving
REGULATOR ARM ASSEMBLY
ORILL 5/ 16" OIAMETER HOLE THROUGH WINDOW REGULA TOR SECTOR GEAR AND PLATE .
FIG. 19:- Motor and Drive Assembly Removal Precaution
17-56
GROUP 17- BODY
when the motor and drive assembly is removed. Remove the motor assembly from the regulator. INSTALLATION 1. Install the motor on the window regulator. 2. Position the window regulator in the door and engage the regulator arm rollers in the glass channel
DOORS AND WINDOWS.
bracket. 3. Position the window regulator to the door inner panel and install the four attaching screws. 4. Install the motor bracket to door inner panel attaching screw. 5. Insert the regulator arm roller in the equalizer arm bracket. Position the bracket to the inner panel and install the two attaching screws.
6. Position the glass channel bracket to the glass channel and install the three attaching screws. 7. Connect the motor wires at the connector. 8. Remove the window support and check the operation of the window mechanism. 9. Install the watershield and trim panel on the door.
EltiSrllfb- WIKINC. Hllfii(.SS
r. r. (),.. ;· 1 1• I
I I
'-""'"
I. iUJ.AYASSY. l. WIA!NS ASSY. ~£lAY 3. IYW,Yii AfSY. ~ELAY
I . CIACV/T MEAK£1. AJSY S. GA.OMMET ·
FIG. 20- Relay and Wiring Installation
VIEW 8
PART 17-3- DOORS, WINDOWS, TAILGATE AND DECK LID
(j)
: .-ICif AND ltOU.JIIfG A.U,Y
~ ~
MOliN11NO l'f.AtC (MI,Tfi"IJ). OHM¥11 llflQD
~
l#lllfCN ~D .OW.,_G A,U Y
:
MOI.IN11/116 hATe f.l""-ll) ! UI£"' l
11/f/ltiN(; ASSY·fOWl!l WIN/XJII/f
C>
11/llfiM.US:'·I'OM'A"WI/IIDOW
"'fliNG A,SJY · , _ , , ft/WOO#II
C>
\1.~14'
Detail of circle "B"
(A"
, , .,,_. .. $.)
Q)
Detail of circle "A "
IUQ"b
~
(~111
COit,.C1101f)
Y· IOMit WIIO.J#I
.. .-..ur-~
9
~
"'
, , ,,,.,, .._•. y . l'()/lllflffll"'t/M.IItl
C)
17-57
JJ7:!7 j ., l
WIN«
IIUIIIIC lllt•lt
POWER WINDOW MOTOR & SWITCH WIRING
FIG. 21- Door Switch and Wiring Installation
0 UIACIICT .tlliST IJ£ I'IOUNT£D TO WI/IDSHICLO WITHIN r 3 DC61/US "'I WlltDSII/£LD C£1f11(£LJN£
FIG. 22.RKK£T lfi.IST IU IJNISNED
REAR VISION MIRROR.
ON CONTACTIN6 3UIVACI ~~~ ASSIMtl~
../
~ '(:/
~
FOR XA 5[0AN,
-
.....
VJ 00
POWER TAILGATE DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
NOTES: THE BATTERY GROUND CABLE SHOULD BE DISCONNECTED WHEN REPAIRS ARE MADE OR WHEN CONTINUITY CHECKS ARE CALLED FOR WHICH INVOLVE SELF POWERED TESTING DEVICES . DURING DIAGNOSIS ALL CONNECTIONS MUST BE CHECKED TO ASSURE POSITIVE CONNECTION
STATION WAGON POWER BACK LITE DOES NOT OPERATE WITH EITHER SWITCH (INSTRUMENT PANEL OR TAILGATE KEY I
NOTE : BAlTERY SHOULD BE FULLY CHARGED (ABOVE 1.225 SPECIFIC GRAVITY)
G')
s
c: .,
-':-1
PERFORM POWER WINDOW RELAY AND CONTROL CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS AS OUTLINED ON CHART 1 IALl POWER WINDOWS DO NOT OPERATE) NOTE : VEHIClES WITH OTHER FUNCTIONAL POWER WINDOWS OR POWER SEATS WILl NOT REQUIRE THIS CHECK
~
'~ AT THE POWER WINDOW RElAY BATTERY TERMINAl ASSURE CONNECTION OF THE DIRECT BATTERY FE. EO BETWEEN THE POWER WINDOW RElAY AND THE TAilGATE KE'f SWITCH
§ :;10 (/)
CHECK THE PRIMARY GROUND CIRCUIT THROUGH THE INSTRUMENT PANEl SWITCH AND TO THE GROUND ATTACHMENT
~
0
~
REPAIR THE PRIMARY GROUND CIRCUIT AND/OR REPlACE THE INSTRUMENT PANEl SWITCH TO ASSURE GROUND FOR THE TOTAl SYSTEM
WITH IGNITION SWITCH AT ""ON " OR ACCESSORY CHECK FOR FEED TO THE INSTRUMENT PANEL SWITCH FROM POWER WINDOW RElAY
z
~
.,,...
POWER TAILGATE DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Cont.)
::a -t
...... I
w I
80 ;Q
,C/'1 RECONNECT THE CONNECTOR TO THE INSTRUMENT PANEL SWITCH CHECK
THE FEED CIRCUITS WITH AN AMMETER
~
WHilE ACTUATING THE SWITCH If BACKLIT£ MOTOR IS LABORING AND DRAWI N G CURRENT . PROCEED AS '0 K •. !IG NIT IO N SWITCH ON !
z
0
'~
OK
CHECK THE TAILGATE LIMIT SWITCH CONTINUITY CONNECTOR ATTACHMENT ADJUSTMENT OPERATI ON OF PLUNGER
• DISCONNECT MOTOR IN TAILGATE AND CONNECT EXTERNAl POWER SOURCE TO THE MOTOR CONNECTOR (S) lUP OR DOWN
FEED I AND CHECK WITH AMMETER
IF
MOT O R IS LABORING AND DRAWING CURRENT , PROCEED AS ··o K "
~
r-
~ --f
m CHECK THE CONTINUITY OF THE TWO CONTROL CIRCUITS BETWEEN
THE BACKLIT£ KEY SWITCH AND THE MOTOR CONNECTOR
REMOVE THE REGULATOR ASSY WITH MOTOR AND DRIVE ASSY !SEE SHOP MANUAL I AND CHECK OPERATION WITH EXTERNAL POWER SOURCE ISEE ''MOTOR TEST "l
)>
z
0 0
m
DISCONNECT THE MOTOR CONNECTOR AND CHECK FOR FEED AT BOTH TERMINAlS WHILE ACTUATING THE BACK liTE KEY SWITCH USING A 12 VOLT TESTER HGNITION SW . OFF & LIMIT SW CLOSEOl
() ~
r-
0 REMOVE DRIVE ASSEMBlY WORM GEAR AND REPLACE WITH APPliCABLE SERVICE GEAR KIT
...... I
VI \()
-..... I
POWER TAILGATE AND DIAGNOSIS (Cont.)
0\
0
NOTES
CHECK AND REPAIR THE OPEN BATTERY FEED CIRCUIT BETWEEN THE POWER WINDOW RELAY 6 THE BACK UTE KEY SWITCH
THE BATTERY GROUND CABLE SHOULD BE DISCONNECTED WHEN REPAIRS ARE MADE OR WHEN CONTINUITY CHECKS ARE CAllED FOR WHICH INVOLVE SELF POWERED TESTING DEVICES
DURING DIAGNOSIS All CONNECTIONS MUST BE CHECKED TO ASSURE POSITIVE CONNECTION
AT THE BACKLIT£ KEY SWITCH CHECK FOR FEED IN BOTH CONTROL CIRCUITS WHILE OPERATING THE INSTRUMENT PANEl SWITCH UGNITION SWITCH ONI
,.,
G') NOTE
STATION WAGON POWER BACK UTE DOES NOT OPERATE WITH THE TAILGATE KEY SWITCH BUT DOES
CHECK CONTINUITY OF THE TWO FEED - GROUND CIRCUITS BETWEEN THE BACK LITE KEY SWITCH AND
BATTERY SHOULD BE FULLY CHARGED (ABOVE 1.225 SPECIFIC GRAVITY)
WITH THE INSTRUMENT PANEL SWITCH
INSTRUMENT PANEl SWITCH
0
.,
c
-..... I
o:J
0 0
,-<
AT THE POWER WINDOW RELAY BATTERY TERMINAL CHECK CONNECTION OF THE DIRECT BATTERY FEED BETWEEN THE POWER WINDOW RELAY AND THE TAILGATE KEY SWITCH
§ ;;o
(/') UNDERINSTRUMENTPANELCHECKFOR PROPER CONNECTION AND/OR FEED AT THE CONNECTOR lSI FOR THE TAILGATE WINDOW AND POWER SEATS, IIF SO EOUIPPEDJ USING A 12 VOLT TESTER
)>
z
0
~
z
0
~
REPAIR OPEN FEED CIRCUIT BETWEEN THE POWER WINDOW RELAY BATTERY FEED TERMINAL lOR STARTER MOTOR RELAY I AND THE CONNECTOR lSI UNDER THE INSTRUMENT PANEL
CHECK AND REPAIR THE OPEN BATTERY FEED CIRCUIT BETWEEN THE KEY SWITCH ANO INSTRUMENT PANEL CONNECTOR
REPAIR OR REPLACE THE TAILGATE KEY SWITCH & WIRING ASSY AS REOUIREO
POWER TAILGATE AND DIAGNOSIS (Cont.)
,).
,.,-4
...... I
NOTES
THE BATTERY GROUND CABLE SHOULD BE DISCONNECTED WHEN REPAIRS ARE MADE OR WHEN CONTINUITY CHECKS ARE CALLED FOR WHICH INVOLVE SELF POWERED TESTING DEVICES DURING DIAGNOSIS All CONNECTIONS MUST BE CHECKED TO ASSURE POSITIVE CONNECTION
STATION WAGON POWER BACK LITE DOES NOT OPERATE WITH TltE INSTRUMENT PANEl SWITCH BUT DOES WITH 1 AILGATE KEY SWITCH
NOTE : BATTERY SHOULD BE FULLY CHARGED (ABOVE 1 .225 SPECIFIC GRAVITY I
w I 0
0 0 ;;o Ul
VEHICLES WITH POWER BACK LITE ONlY PROCEED WITH THE SAME DIAGNOSIS ON CHART 1 !All POWER WINDOWS DO NOT OPERATE) FOR POWER WINDOW RELAY & CONTROl CIRCUITS THEN. IF NECESSARY , FOLLOW DIAGNOSIS BELOW·
VEHICLE WITH OTHER POW£ A WINDOWS AND POWER SEATS THAT OPERATE tPOWE R WOW. RELAY FE:. ED OK I
~
z
0
0
'~ --i
)> r-
G) )> --i
m
)>
z
0 0
m
() NOTE
FEED CIRCUITS BETWEEN THE INSTRUMENT PANEl SWITCH AND THE TAILGATE SWITCH AND MOTOR ARE 0 K. IN THIS CONDITION SINCE THEY ARE USED FOR GROUND CIRCUITS FOR THE TWO MOTOR DIRECTIONS OPERATING BY THE TAILGATE KEY SWITCH
""'
r-
0
...... I
0\
..... I
POWER WINDOW SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
~
All POWER WINDOWS DO NOT OPERATE NOTE ; BATTERY SHOULD BE FULLY CHARGED (ABOVE 1.225 SPECIFIC GRAVITY)
NOTES: THE BATTERY GROUND CABLE SHOULD BE DISCONNECTED WHEN REPAIRS ARE MADE OR WHEN CONTINUITY CHECKS ARE CALLED FOR WHICH INVOLVE SELF POWERED TESTING DEVICES DURING DIAGNOSIS All CONNECTIONS MUST BE CHECKED TO ASSURE POSITIVE CONNECTION
C) ~
TURN IGNITION SWITCH TO THE "ON '' OR ACCESSOftY POSITION CHECK FOR FEED THROUGH THE POWER WINDOW RELAY FROM BATTERY USING A 12 VOLT TESTER
0
OK
ON VEHICLES SO EQUIPPED CHECK THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IN THE FEED CIRCUIT FROM THE POWER WINDOW RELAY
c.,
..... I
OJ
0 0
~
0
0 0 ;10 (/)
)>
z
0
~
z
0
~ AS REQUIRED
POWER WINDOW SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS (Cont.)
.,,.... ~
NOTES:
THE BATTERY GROUND CABLE SHOULD BE
DISCONNECTED WHEN REPAIRS ARE MADE OR WHEN CONTINUITY CHECKS ARE CALLED
-f
ONE POWER WINDOW DOES NOT OPERATE WITH MASTER AND /OR INDIVIDUAL SWITCH
NOTE . BATTERY SHOULD BE FULLY CHARGED lABOVE
FOR WHICH INVOLVE SELF POWERED TESTING DEVICES
1.225 SPECIFIC GRAVITY)
-
.....
• w
•
DURING DIAGNOSIS All CONNECTIONS MUST BE CHECKED TO ASSURE POSITIVE CONNECTION
0
0 0 :;o !.ll
~
ACTl.JA TE THE INDIVIDUAL WINDOW SWITCH AND CHECK FOR FEED AT EACtl HRMINAL OF THE MOTOR CONNECTOR USING A 12 VOLT TESTER
z
0
OK
CONNECT EXTERNAL POWER SOURCE TO THE MOTOR CONNECTOR(S) (UP OR DOWN FEED) AND CHECK WITH AMMETER . IF MOTOR IS LABORING AND DRAWING CURRENT, PROCEED AS " O.K ."
OK REMOVE THE REGULATOR ASSY WITH MOTOR AND DRIVE ASSY . lSEE SHOP MANUAL! AND
CHECK OPERATION WITH EXTERNAL POWER SOURCE !SEE "MOTOR TEST " I
~
y') -i
)> rG) )> -i
m
)>
z
0
0 m
() ~
rREMOVE DRIVE ASSEMBLY WORM GEAR AND REPLACE WITH APPLICABLE SERVICE GEAR KIT FOR All CAR LINES AND MODELS EXCEPT THUNOERBIROS PRIOR TO 1970 WHICH Will REQUIRE COMPLETE MOTOR AND DRIVE ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT
0
-
..... l
(]\
UJ
-
...... I
"' ~
POWER WINDOW SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS (Cont.)
~
NOTE : BATTERY SHOULD BE
FULLY CHARGED lABOVE
NOTES: THE BATTERY GROUND CABLE SHOULD BE DISCONNECTED WHEN REPAIRS ARE MADE OR WHEN CONTINUITY CHECKS ARE CALLED
1.225 SPECIFIC GRAVITY!
:a 0 c
.,
-
FOR WHICH INVOLVE SELF POWERED TESTING DEVICES
......
DURING DIAGNOSIS All CONNECTIONS MUST BE CHECKED TO ASSURE POSITIVE CONNECTION
I
ONE POWER WINDOW OPERATES THROUGH INDIVIDUAl SWITCH BUT NOT WITH MASTER CONTROL
SWITCH
OJ
0 0
-<
CHECK FEED CIRCUIT TO THE
AFFECTED CONTROL SWITCH IN THE MASTER CONTROL SWITCH ASSEMBLY . USING 12 VOLT TESTER
8 ::10
(j')
)>
CHECK THE FEED CIRCUITS FROM MASTER SWITCH FOR THE AFFECTED WINDOW CIRCUITS AT THE MASTER CONTROL SWITCH WIRING , USING A. 12 VOLT TESTER
z 0
:E
z
0
LOCATE CMI'EN FEED CIRCUIT IN HARNESS BETWEEN THE
0
"LOCK OUT" SWITCH AND THE AFFECTED INDIVIDUAL SWITCH
AND REPAIR AS REQUIRED NOTE FEED CIRCUITS BETWEEN THE MASTER CONTROL SWITCH A.ND THE INDIVIDUAL SWITCH ARE GOOD IN THIS CONDITION SINCE THEY ARE USED FOR GROUND CIRCUITS FOR THE TWO MOTOR DIRECTIONS OPERATING BY THE INDIVIDUAL SWITCH THE INDIVIDUAL SWITCH IS ALSO GOOD SINCE IT OPERATES THE WINDOW IN EITHER DIRECTION
~
FALCON FAIRLANE w~:~~~~P
TRIM &SEATS
GROUP 18
PAGE
PART 18-1-
Interior Trim and Vinyl Top Cover 18-2
PART 18-2-
Seats
18-6
18-2
PART 18-1
INTERIOR TRIM AND VINYL TOP COVER Page
Section
1 Door and Quarter Trim Panels .. ........ .. .... 18--2 2 Headlining ............................. . .... 18--2
D
Page
3 Instrument Panel Safety Cover . . .......... ..... 18- -4 4 Roof Outside Cover ...... .. ...... ... ......... 18- -4
DOOR TRIM PANELS
REMOVAL
1. Remove the window regulator handle and the door inside handle. 2. Remove the arm rest retaining screws. 3. With a putty knife or similar tool, pry the trim panel retaining clips out of the inner panel and remove the trim. On models fitted with 'roll top' door trim panels the lock control knob must be removed before attempting to remove the trim. 4. Remove the water shield.
B
Section
INSTALLATION
1. Place a ring of sealer around the window regulator and door handle shaft holes.
in place along the top edge of the trim panel and install the trim panel by pushing the retaining clips into the holes in the door inner panel.
2. Fasten the water shield to the inner panel (Fig. 1). 3. Make sure that all sleeves are installed in the inner panel and that all the retaining clips are installed in the trim panel.
4. Ensure that the finish strip 1s
5: Install the arm rest retaining screws. 6. Place the friction plates against the trim panel and install the window regulator handle. Install the door inside handle.
HEADLINING
REMOVAL
2. Remove the finish strip from the windshield header flange .
an) or rear quarter windows (station wagon) and unstick the headlining from the flange( s). Refer to Section 17-3 for rear window removal procedure. With the station wagon, remove the rear quarter panel trim mouldings and the tail-gate window glass top channel.
3. Pull the door opening finish strips down far enough to provide access to the headlining perimeter.
9. Peel the headlining from the windshield header flange and the door openings.
1. Remove the sun visors, rear view mirror and centre pillar headlining cover.
4. Remove the rear seat cushion and seat back (sedan).
10. Unhook the headlining support rods and remove the headlining assembly from the car. INSTALLATION
5. Remove the rear package tray trim panel (sedan). 6. Remove the coat hooks and the interior light lens assembly.
7. Unhook the headlining from the rear quarter retaining strips (sedan). 8. Rem6ve the rear window (sed-
1. Unpack and lay out the new headlining. 2. Transfer the support rods from the old headlining to the new one, ensuring that they are located in the correct position. 3. With the headlining in the car, insert the support rod ends into their
respective retaining holes in the roof side rails. Make sure that the headlining rear support hooks are in position, and that the material is taut between supports. 4. Apply a strip of trim adhesive to the face of the windshield header flange. Apply trim adhesive to the inside of the windshield header flange, the top and sides of the back window flange and the door flanges. Adhesive should also be applied to the perimeter of the headlining.
5. Stretch the headlining forward and adhere it to the centre of the windshield header flange across a width of about 20". 6. Working outwards, stretch and adhere the headlining across to one windshield pillar and then to the other.
PART 18-1-INTERIOR TRIM AND VINYL TOP COVER
A·A
FIG. 1 - Door Trim Panel and Water Shield- Typical
18-3
18-4
GROUP 18- TRIM AND SEATS
7. Stretch the headlining out and adhere it to the door flanges on each side, working from front to rear. Where necessary, cut nicks in the lining to prevent puckering.
8. Stretch the rear edge of the headlining to the centre section of the rear window flange and adhere a section approximately 20" wide. Stretch the lining out and adhere it to the rest of the top and sides of the flange, working out from the centre. Cut three nicks in the lining at each corner of the rear window to prevent puckering.
9. Stretch the front edge of the material at the quarter panel to the rear edge of the door flange and adhere.
EJ
10. Stretch the lining down at the lower front edge of the quarter panel and hook it over the retainer tabs.
11. Position the retaining strip over the rear edge of the quarter panel lining and pull down over the lanced tabs. Secure the tabs (sedan).
14. Replace the coathooks and the interior light lens assembly.
15. Replace the rear package tray trim panel, the rear seat back and the rear seat cushion (sedan). 16. Replace the rear quarter panel
tr~m mouldings and the tail-gate
wmdow glass top channel (station wagon).
12. Trim excess lining material from the roof side rail and back window or rear quarter window flanges. 13. Replace the rear window (sedan) or rear quarter windows (station wagon). Refer to Section 17-3 for the correct procedure.
17. Reposition the door opening finish strips and replace the centre pillar headlining cover and the finish strip on the windshield header flange. 18. Replace the sun visors and rear view mirror. 19. Clean the interior and headlining.
INSTRUMENT PANEL SAFETY COVER
REMOVAL
INSTALLATION
1. Open the glove box door. Remove the glove box liner retaining screws and remove the glove box liner.
1. Position the new safety cover to the instrument panel (Fig. 2). 2. Install the safety cover retaining screws. Replace the trim cover at the right hand end of the instrument panel. 3. Position the instrument cluster housing into the panel and fit screws.
2. Remove the instrument cluster housing Refer part 15-4 3. Remove the trim cover from the right hand end of the instrument panel. 4. Remove the screws retaining the safety cover to the instrument panel. 5. Pry up and remove the safety cover.
EJ
4. Position the glove box liner in place and install the glove box liner retaining screws.
ROOF OUTSIDE COVER
REMOVAL
1. Remove the rear seat cushion and back. 2. Remove the package tray panel and loosen the headlining in the quarter area sufficiently to permit access to the side belt moulding retainer nuts. 3. Remove the side and rear belt mouldings. 4. Remove the side, top and bottom wmdshield outside mouldings. 5. Remove the drip rail mouldings. 6. Remove the outside cover retainer strips from the drip rails.
7. Cut the cover away from the drive nails at the windshield and rear window openings, remove the screws at the seams of the cover, and remove the cover from the roof. 8. Remove the old adhesive from the roof area with a scraper or use an appropriate cleaning solvent. It is extremely important that the entire roof and drip rails are thoroughly cleaned. INSTALLATION
It is recommended that the existing drive nails be left in position and the
new cover be retained with drive nails installed adjacent to the old nails. Therefore each location should be identified with a wax crayon. 1. Carefully measure and mark the centre of the vehicle roof. 2. Carefully position the outside cover on the roof panel. (Fore and Aft centre punch marks have been provided in the cover for centering purposes.) 3. With the cover properly positioned and temporarily secured, fold back approximately half the cover and apply an even coating of adhesive to the roof panel and a like amount
PART 18-1- INTERIOR TRIM AND VINYL TOP COVER
18-5
FIG. 2-lnstrument Panel Safety Cover Installation to the corresponding area of the roof outside cover assembly. For best results, secure limited sections at a time. Make certain that the adhesive is not lumpy as it will be objectionable from an appearance standpoint. Stretch out all wrinkles progressively. 4. Drill or punch drive nail holes
at windshield and rear window openings and install drive nails. Existing holes may be used for the screws at each seam. 5. Trim the excess cover material from around the entire perimeter. 6. Using a fibre or wood block snap the outside cover retainers into place in the drip rail trough. 7. Install the drip rail mouldings.
FIG. 3-0utside Cover Installation-Typical
8. Install the rear and side belt mouldings. 9. Reposition and secure the headlining. 10. Install the package tray panel, rear seat squab and cushion. 11. Install the windshield exterior mouldings.
18-6
PART 18-2
SEATS
Section 1
D
Pare
~nch
Seats - Removal and Installation Seat and Seat Track .... Front Seat Cushion and Back Rear Seat Cushion and Back Front Seat Cushion Cover Rear Seat Cushion Cover Front Seat Back Cover
18·6 18·6 18-6 18-6 18-6 18·8 18-8
Section
Pare
Rear Seat Back Cover
.... .... .. .. .. .. .... .. ..
2 Bucket Seats - Removal and Installation Front Seat and Seat Track .. .. .. .. Front Seat Cushion Cover Front Seat Back Cover .. .. .. .. Rear Seat Cushion Cover Seat Belts- General Information
18··8 18·11 18-11 18·11 18-12 18-14 .18-14
BENCH SEATS
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
SEAT AND SEAT TRACK Work, other than that of minor nature, is more easily performed when the front seat assembly is removed from the car. 1. Remove the nuts retaining the seat tracks to the floor pan. Lift the seat assembly from the car (Fig. I) and disconnect and remove the release cable. 2. Remove the seat tracks from the seat frame. 3. Transfer the seat adjusting lever knob and the retracting springs, if necessary, to the new track assembly. 4. Position the seat tracks on the seat frame and install the retaining bolts and release cable. 5. Position the seat assembly in the car and install the retaining bolts and nuts.
Release Cable Adjustment. Release cable maladjustment will affect only the side of the seat. In case the latch retaining the track fails to release, turn the release cable turnbuckle or eye bolt enough turns to shorten the release cable travel sufficiently to release the track latch. If the latch fails to secure the seat travel, turn the release cable turnbuckle or eye bolt to lengthen the release cable enough to allow the latch to snap in the locking position.
FRONT SEAT CUSHION AND/OR BACK 1. Remove the front seat and seat track from the car if the cushion is to be replaced. 2. To replace the seat cushion, remove the seat assembly from 'the seat track. 3. Remove the bolts and washers attaching the seat back to the seat cushion frame. Before being able to remove the attaching bolts, it is necessary to remove the seat backs and seat cushion trim from the bolts. 4. Position the seat back assembly on the seat. Install the bolts and washers attaching the seat back to the seat and fasten the seat back and seat cushion cover trim with hog rings. 5. Position the seat cushion on the seat track and install the retaining bolts if removed. 6. Install the front seat and seat track in the car.
REAR SEAT CUSHION AND/OR BACK
1. Lift the front edge of the rear seat cushion and pull it forward to remove it from the car.
2. Remove 2 rear seat back attaching screws located at the bottom of the seat back. 3. Lift up on the seat back to disengage the seat from the upper hooks and remove the seat back from the car. 4. Position the seat back in the car and engage the seat with the upper hooks. 5. Install the seat back lower retaining screws. Then install the rear seat cushion.
FRONT SEAT CUSHION COVER Fig. 2 shows a front seat cushion build-up. Seat cushions for all models are built-up in basically the same manner. Therefore, when installing new seat cushion covers or pads, refer to Fig. 2 for the location of listing wires, hog rings, anti-squeak pads, and seat pad stack-up. 1. Remove the seat and seat track assembly. 2. Remove the bolts and washers attaching the seat back to the seat cushion frame. 3. Remove the seat back assembly. 4. Remove the hog rings retaining the seat cushion cover and remove the cover (Fig. 2). Inspect the pad and replace it if necessary.
PART 18-2- SEATS
18-7
0
61~ - ·A
0
0
0
rUONT SCAT
61UU
&A
TRAC.I'I. ,I,J,l"Jo'·FRat/1 Jl./1.1
A.A
TA1>0<.
•'«M
AJ~I'
ROD A.S.SY
SPiflltiG
FRONT JlAT
FIU:PU
AJJY
;.iAI'fOLf
~tJJiJ
JI.AT
TR.-CI'(
FA(JNT SlAT
T!fA(.I<.
z
Fj
TRKK
0 0 0
....,
A ~~Y- Htt)NT SCAT
rRAt;/1 A.,!Sf'- ntDNT
TRONT SEA r
ROD
fl't.ATC-FLOOR 110()1'<
0
0
.JTfUT-1 S J
~ll' .U
.-t., ' -
.t X
FIG. 1-Front Seat Tracks
L Ar(.H
TIC
IUtCASC c,.&C
4 W..UNOI 4,1$1" .
MIT • WA.,SHCI't ,USY
-- ----
A(lJVJTIH(;
A.,.StST
IU:TA INCR
ff•ONT S£AT TRIICI'( SCRCW
1/VICK
TRACK
A$5 Y - rff()NT JCA T
IIUT
/fN L 1>1
lfAJia..C A:OSII'-rRONT XAr
~PR!NC
(i
0
Sl'AT
r~t.LISTCI't ~Aa
¥c • 16
-
L IITCH T1[
MONT J(Jio T TRA(.I<. A[JJUJTtNC
\ o/1(""
Ar1
TAAl.J<.AJ..SV·TAOIVT.JLAT
f,/7(),5
{;) t.llS.J
0
•JJY
TAA,;II
t l ) wJOS·6A
------
A~IJT
18-8
GROUP 18 TRIM AND SEATS
FIG. 2-Front Seat Cushion 5. Transfer the listing wires to the new cover. 6. With the seat cushion assembly right side up, make sure that the pads are stacked properly and centered; then place the cover over the pads to hold them in position. 7. Carefully turn the seat assembly over so that the pads do not shift out of position. 8. After centering the cover and straightening the seams along the front edge of the cushion, fasten the cover to the front of the seat frame with hog rings . Make sure that the hog rings encircle the listing wire . Install I hog ring in e.ach hole provided in the seat cushion frame .
REAR SEAT CUSHION COVER 1. Remove the rear seat cushion from the car by lifting on the front of the seat and pulling it forward . 2. Remove the cushion cover hog rings and remove the cushion cover from the seat frame. 3. Inspect the pad and replace it if necessary . 4. Transfer the listing wire to the new cushion cover. 5. Position the new cushion cover on the seat frame and springs and attach it in place with hog rings 1 Fig. 4) 6. Install the seat cushion in the car.
NOTE
10. Fasten the side of the cover to the seat frame side with hog rings throu~h the holes provided (Fig. 2). 11. In sta ll the seat back
Two types of rear seat and se~t back springing are employed and, 1f replacement of a frame and spring assembly is required, it must be of the same type as that removed. FRONT SEAT BACK COVER Repairs to seat backs are performed out of the car and are usually limited to replacement of torn or burned seat covers. In a few instances, the pads may be damaged and require replacement.
12. Install the seat tracks to the cushion anu the seat assembly in the car .
Fig. 3 shows a front seat back build-up. 1. Remove the seat back. 2. Remove the ash receptacle and ash receptacle retainer, if equipped .
9. At the rear of the seat assembly. pull the cover taut over the pads. and install hog rings at the seat frame .
3. Remove the hog rings retaining the seat back cover to the frame. Unhook the listing wires from the seat spring assembly tabs, and remove the cover (Fig. 3) 4. Transfer the listing wire to the new seat back cover. S. Inspect the seat pad and spring assemblies, and repair or replace as necessary 6. Careiully place the cover over the seat frame and pad assembly. Pull the cover taut over the pads, hook the listing wires on the seat spring assembly tabs and install the hog rings (Fig. 3) 7. Cut a hole in the cover for the ash receptacle retainer, if equipped, and install the receptacle assembly. 8. Install the seat back to the seat cushion . REAR SEAT BACK COVER I. Remove the rear seat back from the car. 2. Remove the hog rings retaining the seat back cover to the frame and remove the rear seat back cover. 3. Transfer the listing wires' to the new cover. 4. Position the new cover on the pad and seat frame and secure it in place with hog rings (Fig. 5) 5. Install the rear seat back in the car.
PART 18-2- SEATS
18-9
L
su.A
FIG. 3-Front Seat Back
FIG. 4-Rear Seat Cushion Installation Typical
18-10
GROUP 18- TRIM AND SEATS
FIG. 5-Rear Seat Back Typical
PART 18-2- SEATS
EJ
18-11
BUCKET SEATS
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION FRONT SEAT AND SEAT TRACK The seat track assembly is easily replaced if the seat assembly is removed from the car. 1. From under the car, remove the seat track reta ining stud nuts and washers. Remove the seat assembly f r om the car and place it on a clean work area.
2. Remove the nuts which retain the seat track assembly to the cushion and remove the seat track assembly. 3. Disconnect the release cable from the track being replaced and conn.e ct it to a new seat track . 4. Place the seat track assembly
on the seat cushion and install the retaining nuts
3. Undo the two retaining screws and remove the side valance.
5. Place the seat assembly in the car and install the washers and nuts on the retaining studs.
4. Remove the four hog rings retaining seat back lower valance panel to the seat cushion.
FRONT SEAT CUSHION COVER Repairs to seat cushions or seat tracks are performed out of the car and are usually limited to replacement of torn or burned seat covers. In a few instances, the pads may be damaged and require replacement.
5. Remove the two hog rings retaining the tags of the sleeve assl!mbly on the reclining mechanism cross bar. 6. Loosen the screws holding the reclining hinge assembly to the seat back and remove the bolts holding the hinge assembly to the seat cush ion. The cushion may now be detached.
1. Remove the seat and track assembly from the car and place it on a clean work area.
7. Remove the two sea t cu shi on buttons and remove the hog rings holding the cushion cover.
2. Remove the seat track assembly from the seat cushion.
8. Turn back the cover and remove the surround pad . Remove the
FIG. 6-Bucket Seat Front Typical
18-12 hog rings holding the cushion insert and remove the cushion cover and insert pad. 9. Inspect the pad, flexilator and spring assemblies and repair or replace as necessary.
GROUP 18- TRIM AND SEATS 16. Replace the side valance and the seat track assembly. 17. The seat may now be installed in the car.
8. The top corners of the cover may now be turned back and the suround pad removed.
FRONT SEAT lACK COVER 10. Transfer the listing wires to the new cover. 11. Place the cushion insert pad on the flexilator and position the cushion cover. Hog ring the insert pad to the retainer and spring frame . 12. Replace the surround pad, t.urn the cushion cover over the pad and secUJ·e with hog rings. Replace the two seat cushion buttons. 13. Replace the bolts holding the hinge assembly to the seat cushion and tig·hten the screws holding the hinge assembly to the seat back. J.t. Hog ring the cross bar sleeve
assembly tags to the underside of the seat cushion. 1;;. Hog ring the seat back lower valance panel to the seat cushion.
7. Turn back the lower corners of the cover and remove the lower four hog rings, retaining the insert
1. Remove the l!e&t and track assembly from the car and place it on a clean work area. 2. Undo the two retaining screws and remove the side valance. 3. Remove the four hog rings retaining the seat back lower valance panel to the seat cushion. 4. Loosen the bolts holding the hinge assembly to the seat cushion and remove the screws holding the seat back to the hinge assembly Remove the seat back. 5. Remove the rear cover panel by pulling downwards to disengage the clip. 6. Remove the two seat back buttons and the hog rings retaining the cover.
9. Remove the remaining hog rings around the insert II'Tld remove the cover and in~ert pad. 10. Inspect the pad, flexilator and spring assemblies and repair or replace as necessary. 11. Transfer the listing wires to the new cover. 12. Position the insert pad and the cover on the flexilator and replace all except the lower four hog rings retaining the in~ert . 13. Replace the surround pad and pull the top corners of the cover over the frame . 14. Replac e the lower four hog rings retaining the insert.
covu ASSlMII.Y
lUTTON
A!>S[MtlY
LOW[R
FIG. 7-Rear Seat Back Typical
WI~[
WA5HU
-
m ao
I
0
601508
@613A.!!B
I'HNC:L A.::.SY-RR .SCAT BACK I R£0D CABLE ( LAT'CH A.S.SY SCAT &tCK
@60!iAI!5
SPRNG - .sEAT
FLOOR
2. R£QD
~ "1 42.7'4 - .S
BAt;~(
2.
SPRING
RETAINER
L£YER Akl\1 - .sEAT BK:J<
(!)613!'51
IBY.$8l'IS.59-5
~
LATCH
.SCQEW - .5HOUL££R
R£0'0 2 REQ'D LArGH I RE.OD Pf/OT
I RE.Ob NUT-HE.f ..tAM I REO'D ~56.38.' - .S WASHER- SPQING I R£Q'D 61~ 79 KNOB - LEVER APfl.f S£AT BACH LATCH I R£0'0 @otM40 E..fTENSION ASSY- R'R -'CAT 8ACJC REAR I RE.a'D 6~AI6 BI--+'WP£R R'R SEAT BACH E.rT: 2. R£00 @616AM MOULDING - WIJIR .STRIP FLOOR E.rT 2 RE:QD 3!5/17.Jtj-.$ .SCRtiJV 4 REQ'D 016A5.!! TAPPING PLAT£ 2. REOV .349a9- .S i1HSI-IE P - L OCX 4 R£0'0 37'4067 - .S Sc.Rl:W 4- R'i
"
~
~
~-'920-S
0
i ~ <{
w
(/)
~
I
00
1
eOOBO
.371527>'i - .S
@3
!
2. RED.'D
''"10<
.STRI;(£R - li£4R. SCAT iS4CK I RH ILH
11387~-J
SAC.ER - R.s.B. LATCH S TRIKER
REr:ID
6 H£'0'0
:u940-.5
!57'4!50 v
6l6>+n
~HER
6 REQ'D
.SCRE:W 6 RE:Q'D PIID- ANn - RATTLE 2 REo'D FOLD A4D OVER WIRE ( STAPLE lllltn
E.SB - MIA-
t-
l OCATCN Gi/1/X OIMiff 1'1 . RW CENTRE nOOK TO ' lOCAT£ ITTM' 15 (+ PlACES)
OR ESB-IIIIA-112 - A .STAPu
TH£N .sECURE YV'.J<' ADH£.51V£ E.SS-MC!f514 -A TO \!) l'lt7 · WA Y IJCTOI££11 HANOLE AND LATCH£.$.
~
~ A.
' scRE:W
or,...._-46/7
@) 1/SfX> llZJ Yllld:'44
@
~L - REAR f:LCX)I:( 7/::I.W 5100 .SCREW
G/3A57
~ - ST101
IREQD 13 REQD
/:lEAR SEAT &li£K. 2 RBilD
~-- ~ ~--
) \ ~
~~
~ -~l_j
• ( ~- ~ 'I
FIG . 8- Wagon Rear Seat Latch Installation
j
~
)
"EW WITH SCAT
Z
BJ'.CK REit«:JYE.D
18-14
GROUP 18- TRIM AND SEATS
15. Pull the bottom corners of the cover frame and hog r ing the cover to the frame. 16. Replace the two rear seat back buttons and the rear cover panel. 17. Install the seat back on the hinges and tighten the hinge assembly to seat cushion retaining bolts. 18. Hog ring the seat back lower valance panel to the seat cushion. 19. Replace the side valance and install the seat in the car.
3. Remove rear seat cushion pad assembly, upper and lower. 4. Inspect the pad assembly and spring assemblies and repair or replace as necessary. 5. Transfer the listing wires to the new cover. 6. Replace pad assemblies, upper and lower. 7. Replace the seat cushion button:s and hog ring the corner in position. Replace the cushion in the car.
REAR SEAT CUSHION COVER 1. Remove the rear seat cushion from the car by lifting on the front of the seat and pulling it forward.
2. Remove the cushion cover hog ring3 and turn back the corner. Remove the seat cushion buttons.
SEAT BELTS GENERAL INFORMATION The seat and sash belts are factory installed in their proper locations. If the seat belts or sash belts are removed for any reason, they should be installed as shown in Fig. 9 & 10.
I
5. Remove the seat back buttons and all hog rings retaining the seat back cover. 6. Remove pad assembly. 7. Inspect the pad and spring assemblies and repair or replace 83 necessary. 8. Transfer the listing wires to the new cover.
REAR SEAT BACK COVER
9. Replace pad assembly.
1. Remove the rear seat cushion and undo the two screws holding thP. lower end of the rear seat back in the car.
FAIRMONT REAR SEAT
the upper filler flap and remove the bolts holding the armrest assembly in position. Remove the armrest by drawing it back through the seat.
10. Hog ring the seat back cover in position. 11. Replace the armrest and hog ring the upper filler flap in position.
2. Lift the seat back to disengage it from the uppP.r hooks and remove the seat back from the car.
12. Hog ring the lower filler flap in place.
3. Undo the hog rings retaining the lower filler flap and remove it from the seat back.
13. Engage the seat back on the upper hooks and replace the two seat back attaching screws.
4. Undo the hog rings retaining
14. Replace the rear seat cushion.
Sealer should be placed around all seat belt anchor bolt holes in the floor pan. Belt assemblies must be installed in matched sets as received and must not be interchanged between models . The position of inboard front seat belts at the tunnel shall be pointing in a forward direction , plus or minus
15 degrees . If a component portion (buckle portion, retractor portion. etc) of a seat belt or sash belt assembly is non functional or damaged the entire assembly (buckle, tongue and shoulder harness portions) must be replaced.
I'
V6W~
S'TD J!lt. 7J
Jr&J ~#lrJ o.._, ~' $ l/r1'A1If OtlfPIT .-tCIOf' ,...,.n
0Nl V
'Ottt./IIQCW'"UIIIII"N~
.-Loot
......
,..,n,
BOLT J MCMJLD:;:Jt BOLT - - / 16" 1 I
1 '8"
BOLT J MOI..rUD
..; Pit , MG
V~ ; KEI
'(' 16
PL.f. "' " • " ' " ' WAV'. ,'. l:. t1f..R "' i'l!"t:R BELT &3::i!, COMI, RT. SU.f BELT .lS..OT. PaT. lJ!! .t.T t.A.P
aol.T
s.auu.a
..; PACD
FIG. 9- Seat Belt Installation
18-15
PART 18-2- SEATS
I
~
I
\I FIG. 10- Seat Belt Installation CLEANING Wash the webbing with any commercial soap or detergent.
Do not use carbon tetrachloride , naptha, etc. Bleaching or redyeing of the seat belts is not recommended because of deterioration which may
be caused to the webbing. Inspect for loose, cuts or damaged webbing.
REFERENCE TO SERVICE INFORMAnON AND NOTES Date
Letter No.
Paae
Brief Detail
FALCON FAIRLANE w~:~~~~P
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE AND LUBRICATION CHARTS
GROUP 19
PAGE
PART 19-1-
Lubrication and Maintenance Schedule
19-2
19-2
PART 19·1
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
Reliable opera t ion of all Ford vehicles depends t o a great extent on t he use of lubrican ts and service component s which meet Ford Specifications. It is possible that the use of lubricants or service products which do not meet these specifications may cause damage to important operating mechanisms. Conditions under which vehicles are driven vary greatly co nsidering the extremes of temperature, urban and rural traffic, paved and unpaved roads and dry areas where dust is prevalent. Operating conditions are considered " norm al" unless:-
1. More than 50% of the operation is stop and go as in city traffic.
2. The average trip is less than 10 miles.
ENGINE
3. The operation of the vehicle includes long periods of idling such a3 encountered in taxi and police units, where mileage is not an accurate indication of the engine hours run. 4. The temperature for periods of two months at a time regularly range below 45•F. 5. Dust conditions are more severe than typical suburban area majority of the streets
6. The vehicle is used for consistent high speed or competition driving. Where the conditions are more severe than normal, i.e., one or more of the above conditions apply, then the engine oil and the
CRANKCASE
Use of SAE 20W-4 0 oil wi ll prov ide the proper viscosity for all no rmal ra nges of outside temperatures.
encountered those in a where the are paved.
filter should be changed more frequently:The following charts list the lubricant specifications and specified change periods for normal vehicle operation.
IMPORTANT The lubricants listed are specified :for the maximum service periods approved by Ford Motor Company of Australia Limited. Manufacturers of these products may advocate service periods in excess of those currently recommended. We do not propose to comment on the validity of these claims but point <>ut that it is mandatory that the3e products be used in Ford vehicles only for the perio
OILS
defined by ASTM committee 02 for Section G-IV of technical committee B and are published in the SAE Handbook. These tests cover oil characteristics as follows :-
Sequence III High Temperature Deposit Formation (Va rnish). ~quence IV Rust Prevention.
Conosion
and
OIL QUALITY Use only oils which have been tested and certified by the maker as satisfying automobile manufacturers specifications for Engine Operating sequence Tests for Service MS . The Ford Motor Company specification covering these tests is ESE M2C I OI-C These tests are
Sequence I Wear.
Low Temperature
Sequence V -
Sludge F ormat ion .
OIL FILTER Prevention -
(Cold Starts) .
Sequence II High Speed High Temperature Wear. Prevention.
Use of the ri ght oil filter is also essential to good engine life and cperation. For 6,000 mile filter change interval s it is essential that only a genuine Ford filter be used .
PART 19-1- LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
NAME
ITEM
FORD SPEC .
BODY HINGES HOOD LATC H SAFETY CATCH LOCK CYLINDERS FRONT SUSPENS ION BALL JO INT S
SAE 20 W / 40 Petroleum Jelly Lock lu br 1ca nt Ball jo1nt grease
ESB-M2C 20-A MIC75-A
FRONT END UPPER INNER PIVOT PINS
Ball jo int qrease
MIC 75-A
FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS BRAKE MASTE R CYLINDER CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER STEER IN G GEAR HOUSING
Wheel beanng grease ESW FM 1 C2 500 ° bollmg po1n t ESW FM 6C2 Brake flu1d ESW M 1 C 87 --A L1fet1me steermg gear grease M2C 33 F Automati C trans miSSIOn fluid Rubber grea se ES W -M2C 108A Hypoid gear lube ESW- M2C 1 006A L S. o il ESW - M2C 119A L.S. oil ESW- M2C 83A SAE 80 ESW- M2C 37 SAE 30 ESW -- M2C 37 SAE 30 M2C 33f Automatic trans miSSIOn fluid
}
STEER IN G POWER PUMP RESERVOIR POWER STEER ING ACTUATOR BALL STUD REAR AXLE CONVENT IONAL LIMITED SL I P TRACT ION LOK TRANS\~ISSION MANUAL- 4 SP EED 3 SPeED FUL L SYNC HRO 3 SPEED PART SYNC HRO TRANSM ISSION- AUTOMATIC
ESE M 2C 10 1- C
ES W-M1C 87A
UNIVERSAL JOINTS
ES E- M2C 101 - C
ENGINE
M.S. Sequen ce tested
I::NGINE OIL I-ILLER BREATHER CAP E GINE O I L FILTER DISTRIBUTOR CAM
ESE - M2 C 101 - C SAE 20W , 40 6.000 - mile type D1st cJm greJse M1 C 66A
19-3
CAPACITY as required as required 10 gram s at serv1cmq 1nterval 3 grams at serv 1c1ng 1nterval 1 oz. per hub .48 pints .0 7 pints 0 7 lb. ::J- 07 lb . 2.5 pints
2 3 p1nts 2 3 p1nts 4 p1nts 3 25 pints 2 7 p ints 3 . 1 3 pints B.W 14 . 5 pt. C4 1 6 . 5 pt. FMX 18 5 pt. T ota l ca pacity of U.J.s 5 grams 200-250 8 pt. 302-35 1 8 pt. ( In cludes Oil Filter capacity) 1 . 7 pints Smear
19-4
GROUP 19- LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE Maintenance Operations Carry out the operations listed below at the mileages shown or at the equtvalent monthly tntervals .
Months
3
6
9 12 15 18 21 24 27 30 33 36
Miles OOO's
3
6
9 12 15 18 21 24 27 30 33 36
Under Hood: Change engine oil and install new Motorcra ft/Ford Filter X X Clean crankcase breather cap Clean fuel pump filter screen and sedtment bowl Replace closed em1sston regulator control valve Check torque manifold bolts and tnlet ptpe to mantfold nuts Check and adjust steering gear pre·load (ma nual only) Compress1on test eng1ne Cl ean carburett or air cleaner and filter (r epl ace cleaner element as requ ired)
Ch eck, adjust and lubricate accelerator lin kage Check, adjust and lubricate transmissio n linkages (manual, auto.) Check and adjust inhibitor switch Adjust fan belt tenston Che ck al l flutd levels (master cylt nders . stee r1ng box. automatt c transmtsston) Check battery electrolyte, termmals for secu r1ty (clean where necessary) , top up ele ctrolyt e Inspect engtne compartment for flu1d leaks Drain, flush , refill and add inhibitor to ra diator and check c ondition of hoses Clean and adju st po1nts. plugs and reset 1gn 1t1on t1m1ng (replace as requ1red)
X
X
X
X
X
X
X X
X
X X X
X X
X
Replace fuel filter where fitt ed Check idle R .P.M .
X
X X
X X
X X
X
X X
j
XI
X
X
X
X
X X X X X X X X X X X X X
x lx x
X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X IX X X X X X ' X X
X
X X X X XIX X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Under Body: Vtsually 1n spe ct d1s c brake pads for wear . re p lace where necessary and adjust whee l bear1ng s Remo ve and clean brake drum assembl1es . C heck l1 n1ngs for wear and adjust hand brake mec han 1sm Repa ck and adjust front wheel bear1ngs Inspect tyres Ch eck and adjust toe-in Se rv1ce automati C transm iSSion and ad just b ands . Inspe ct shock absorber rn ountmgs Che ck flu1d levels (transrn1SS1on-rnanual . re ar axle) Check under body for exhaustjflu 1d leaks Inspect all steer1ng l1 nkages and steer1ng bo x for wear and secunty Inspect brake hose s Torque rear sprtng Ujbo lts Lubricat e handbrake linkages and check a djustment Lub r1cate fro nt end upper 1nn er p1vot p1n s.
X
X
X X X
X X
X
X
X
X X
X X
X
X
X X
X
X X
X
X
X
X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X
X
X X
X X
X
X
X
X
X X X
X X
Lubricat e front suspension ball joints General: Che ck w 1n dsh1eld w1per;washer operat 1o n a nd bl ade cond1 t 1on Lu bncat e and ch ec k operat 1on of door loc ks .hood and d eckl1d catches Ens u re correct operat1on of alll1ght1ng Road test veh >cl e
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X
ADDENDUM POLICE AND TAXI UNITS
19-5
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE MILEAGE As Required
Each each Daily
each
INTERVAL
each
each
5000 10000 15000 20000 25000
each
30000
E N G I N E
X
Change engine oil and filter Check engine oil level
X
Check radiator coolant level
X X
Check battery electrolite level Clean crankcase breather cap
X
Replace engine coolant and add r?diator inhibitor Rl-36 (or every two years)
X X
Check engine accessory drive belts
X
Ignition timing check and adjust if necessary
X
Clean carburettor air cleaner and filter (replace as required)
T R A N S M I S S I 0 N. Adjust automatic transmission band and service !'{)000 ,and 35000 Accelerator linkage and down shift valve control Check and adjust if necessary (automatic)
cable. X
Gear change linkage. Check and adjust if necessary.
X
Check ftiud level, rear axle, manual tran s mission, automatic transmission
X
c
H A
s s
I
s
Check brake linings and / or pads for excessive wear and check brake lines for damage and. leaks
X
In spect all steering lin~age s amJ sll:ering bus for wear a ml security anJ adjust front wheel alignment if necessary
X X
Steering gear preload check (manual on ly) · Lubncate' front end upper 1nner p1vot pins. Repa ck and ad1ust front wheel bear1ngs
i
\
X X
N.B.- The above information only applies to Police and Taxi units and must be used in conjunction with the chart on the previous page.
REFERENCE TO SERVICE INFORMATION AND NOTES Date
Letter No.
Page
Brief Detail
FALCON FAIRLANE w~:~~~~P
MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS
GROUP 20
PAGE
PART 20-1-
Maintenance Operations
20-2
20-2
PART 20-1
MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS
Page
Section
20-2 20-14
1 Engine and under hood 2 Transmission, Clutch and Rear Axle
Page
Section 3 Under body, Steering and Alignment .. ' 4 Body ..
20-16 20-22
D ENGINE AND UNDER HOOD and observe all the connections for fuel seepage. Tighten or replace fuel lines as necessary.
INSPECT COOLING SYSTEM HOSES AND LINES
Inspect the cooling system hoses for evidence of cracking or extreme weathering. Replace cracked hoses. Check for leaking or porous hoses and tighten or replace. Make sure all supporting brackets for hoses are in place and that the hoses are properly installed in the brackets. Inspect the radiator core and tanks for seepage or leaks. Check all fittings to see that they are tight and in good condition. Examine the hoses at the fittings for cuts or weakness. Repl.ace any hose in questionable condition.
REPLACE FUEL FILTER
FIG. 1 -Typical Cylinder Block Drain Plug-Six
IN-LINE FILTER REPLACEMENT -VB
REPLACE RADIATOR COOLANT
Refer to Part 19, Maintenance Schedule, for recommended frequency of service. To drain the radiator, open the drain cock located at the bottom of the radiator and remove the cylinder block drain plug(s). The 6-cylinder engine block has one drain plug located at the right rear of the cylinder block ahead of the. starter (Fig. 1). The V-8 engines have a drain plug on each side of the cylinder block (Fig. 2). To fill the cooling system; close the drain cock. Install the block drain plug(s). Disconnect the heater outlet hose at the water pump to bleed or release trapped air in the system. When the coolant begins to escape, connect the heater outlet hose. Add radiator inhibitor of approved specifications. Operate the engine until normal operating temperature has been reached. After the. initial fill, the
Refer to Part 19, Maintenance Schedules, for recommended frequency of filter replacement. The in-line fuel filter used on V-8 engines 250 CID 2V six cylinder, and the 250 CID 1V six cylinder engine equipped with air-conditioning is of one-piece construction and cannot be cleaned. Replace the filter (and gasket if so equipped) if it becomes clogged or restricted. Otherwise, replace it at the interval specified in the maintenance schedule.
DRAIN PLUG
11196-A
FIG. 2 - Typical Cylinder Block Drain Plug V-8 coolant level will drop approximately one quart after the engine has been operated about 20 minutes at 2,000 rpm. This is due to the displacement of entrapped air. Add more coolant to fill the radiator supply tank. CHECK ENGINE COOLANT LEVEL
The coolant level should be kept one inch below the filler neck opening. INSPECT FUEL LINES AND FILTER FOR LEAKS
With the engine off, examine the fuel ·line connections for wetness or washed or stained areas that might indicate a fuel leak. Start the engine
1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Loosen the retaining clamp securing the fuel inlet hose to the fuel filter. 3. Unscrew the fuel filter from the carburettor and discard the gasket, if so equipped. Disconnect the · fuel filter from the hose and discard the retaining clamp. 4. Install a new clamp on the inlet hose and connect the hose to the filter. Place a new gasket (if used) on the new fuel filter and screw the filter into the carburettor inlet port. Tighten the filter. 5. Position the fuel line hose clamp and crimp the clamp securely. 6. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks. IN-LINE FILTER REPLACEMENT 250 CID 2V SIX CYLINDER, 250 CID 1V SIX CYLINDER ENGINE EQUIPPED WITH AIR-CONDITIONING
1. Hold hex. part of filter to pre-
PART 20-1- MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS
20-3
vent filter from turning and unscrew flared union, fuel pipe to filter. 2. Hold double female adaptor and unscrew flared union, fuel filter to double female adaptor. 3. Remove in-line filter. 4. Place a new filter in position and screw top and bottom flared unions to retain filter, by holding hex. on filter and hex. on adaptor, respectively. 5. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks. CLEANING THE FUEL PUMP FILTER SCREEN & SEDIMENT BOWL AC type only
l; Unscrew the sediment bowl retaining nut. 2. Remove the sediment bowl. 3. Remove and clean gauze filter. 4. Replace gauze filter. 5. Refit the bowl after cleaning, using a new gasket. 6. Tighten the sediment bowl retaining nut. 7. Start the engine and check for leaks. CLEAN CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM COMPONENTS
XA/ZF vehicles are equipped with crankcase ventilation systems which have the components located at different . points on each type of engine. Fig. 3 shows typical ventilation system for the V-8 engines. The following is a general procedure. REMOVAL
Remove the following components from the crankcase ventilation system! 1. Remove the oil filler cap 2. Remove the air cleaner (and duct and valve assembly, if so equipped). 3. Remove the hose or hose assembly from the ventilator valve in the rocker arm cover. Remove the other end of this hose (or hose assembly) from the intake manifold connection, or carburettor spacer connection, if so connected. 4. Pull the ventilator valve from the grommet in the rocker arm cover. CLEANING
1. Wash the crankcase filler cap in a low-volatility, petroleum-base solvent. Shake the cap dry. Do not dry
">; VENT HOSE
( ~/-,
\
\( \ FIG. 3- Crankcase Ventilation System Components Typical
A\3141-A
20-4
GROUP 20-MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS
with compressed air, since air pressure may damage the filter element. 3: Clean the rubber hoses with a low-volatility petroleum-base solvent and dry them with compressed air. Remove all deposits from inside walls of the hoses. Heavy deposits can flake off in service. Replace any hose that cannot be cleaned satisfactorily. 4. Clean the intake manifold or carburettor spacer connection by probing the inlet nipple or threaded opening with a flexible wire brush. 5. Do not attempt to clean the crankcase ventilator valve. It should be replaced at the specified mileage intervals or when test indicates it is not working properly.
INSTALLATION 1. Install the ventilator valve into the grommet in the rocker arm cover. If the grommet is loose or damaged, use a new grommet. 2. Assemble the components of the hose assembly (if an assembly was removed). 3. Connect one end of the hose (or hose assembly) to the ventilator valve. 4. Connect the other end of the hose (or hose assembly) to the fitting on the intake manifold, or carburettor spacer (if so connected). 5. Install the carburettor air cleaner (and ducts, if so equipped). 6. Install the oil filler cap on the oil filler pipe. CHECK ENGINE ACCESSORY PULLEYS AND DRIVE BELTS PULLEY CONDITION Inspect pulley belt surface for deposits of rust. If rust is present but can be removed easily with a cloth moistened with kerosene, rust is harmless and can be ignored. If rust cannot be so removed, remove belt(s) and polish pulley belt surfaces with fine sandpaper. Wipe or blow clean with compressed air. Install belt(s) and adjust the tension to specifications.
Tool-
-8620-B
FIG. 4 - Checking Drive Belt Tension CHECK ENGINE ACCESSORY DRIVE BELTS BELT TENSION Properly tensioned drive belts minimize noise and also prolong service life of the belt. Therefore, it is recommended that a belt tension gauge be used to check and adjust the belt tension. Any belt that has operated for a minimum of 10 minutes is considered a used belt, and when adjusted, it must be adjusted to the reset tension shown in the specifications. 1. Install the belt tension tool (Part No. 8620B) on the drive belt (Fig. 4) and check the tension following the instructions of the tool manufacturer. 2. If adjustment is necessary, loosen the alternator mounting and adjusting arm bolts. Move the alternator toward or away from the engine until the correct tension is obtained. Tighten the alternator adjusting arm and the mounting bolts. Check the belt tension. DRIVE BELT REPLACEMENT 1. On a car with power steering, loosen the power steering pump bracket at the water pump and remove the drive belt. 2. Loosen the alternator mounting
and adjusting arm bolts. Move the alternator toward the engine. Remove the belt(s) from the alternator and crankshaft pulleys, and lift them over the fan. 3. Place the belt(s) over the fan. Insert the belt(s) in the water pump pulley, crankshaft pulley and alternator or generator pulley grooves. Adjust the belt tension to specifications. · 4. On a car with power steering, install the power steering pump drive belt and tighten the pump bracket to the water pump. Adjust the drive belt tension to specifications. CHANGE ENGINE OIL AND FILTER 1. Raise the car. 2. Remove the oil pan drain plug and allow the engine oil to drain into a container. 3. Place a drip pan under the filter. Unscrew the filter from the adaptor fitting. 4. Coat the gasket on the new Motorcraft/Ford filter with oil. Place the filter in position ori the adaptor fitting. Hand tighten the filter until the gasket contacts the adaptor face, then advance it t turn. 5. Replace the oil pan drain plug and tighten it securely. 6. Refill the crankcase with the proper amount and grade of oil. 7. Lower the car. 8. Operate the engine at fast idle, and check for oil leaks. If oil leaks are evident, perform the necessary repairs to correct the leakage. CHECK ENGINE OIL LEVEL Check the oil level dipstick to be sure it indicates the correct quantity of oil in the crankcase. Be sure the oil is clean.
20-5
PART 20-1- MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS TORQUE INTAKE MANIFOLD BOLTS 8 CYLINDER ONLY Refer to Fig. 5 for the correct tightening sequence. Using a torque wrench, and following the sequence given, tighten the manifold bolts to specifications. Intake Manifold Bolt Torque Engine (Ft-Lb) 302 351 ............ 5/ 16 bolt 23-25 3/ 8 bolt 28-32
CD CD ®0CD 0
IDENTIFIED BY BLACK, DRY FLUFFY 'CARBON DE POSITS ON INSULA TOR TIPS, EXPOSED SHELL SURFACES AND ELECTRODES. CAUSED BY TOO COLD A PLUG , WEAK IGNITION, DIRTY AIR CLEANER,DEFECTIVE FUEL PUMP, TOO RICH A FUEL MIX TUR!, IMPROPERLY OPERATING HEAT RISER OR EXCESSIVE IDLING. CAN BE CLEANED.
IDENTIFIED BY WET BLACK DEP. OS ITS ON THE INSULA TOR SHELL BORE ELECTRODES CAUSED BY EXCESSIVE OIL ENTERING CO'ABUS. TION CHAMBER THROUGH WORN RINGS AND PISTONS, EXCESSIVE CLEARANCE BETWEEN VALVE GUIDES AND STEMS, OR WORN OR LOOSE BEARINGS . CAN BE CLEANED IF ENGINE IS NOT REPAIRED, USE A HOTTER PLUG.
IDENTIFIED BY DEPOSIT BUILD ·UP CLOSING GAP BETWEEN ELECTRODES. CAUSED BY OIL OR CARBON FOULING. IF DEPOSITS ARE NOT EXCESSIVE, THE PLUG CAN BE CLEANED.
0 0®®00 FIG. 5- Intake Manifold Torque Sequence- 302 and 351 Engines BATTERY CABLES Check battery cable connections for tightness. Check cables for frayed insulation or excessive corrosion. Replace as required. INSPECT SECONDARY IGNITION WIRING Inspect the secondary (high-tension) wiring for cracked insulation or indications of heat damage. Be sure that the spark plug wires are fully seated on the spark plugs and that the connections to the coil and distributor are bottomed in the receptacles provided.
IDENTIFIED BY DARK GRAY , BLACK, YELLOW OR TAN DE POSITS OR A FUSED GLAZED COATING ON THE INSULATOR TIP. CAUSED BY HIGHLY LEADED GASOLINE. CAN BE CLEANED.
IDENTIFIED BY LIGHT TAN OR GRAY DEPOSITS ON THE FIRING TIP. CAN i3E CLEANED.
IDENTIF lED BY SEVERELY ERODED OR WORN ELECTRODES. CAUSED BY NORMAL WEAR. SHOULD BE REPLACED.
PRE-IGNITION
INSPECT, CLEAN, ADJUST AND TEST SPARK PLUGS- REPLACE AS REQUIRED REMOVAL 1. Remove the wire from each spark plug by grasping, twisting and then pulling the moulded cap of the wire only. Do not pull on the wire because the wire connection inside the cap may become separated or the weather seal may be damaged. 2. Clean the area around each spark plug port with compressed air, then remove the spark plugs.
IDENTIFIED BY MELTEu OR SPOTTY DEPOSITS RESEMBLING BUBBLES OR BLISTERS. CAUSED BY SUDDEN ACCE LE RAT ION. CAN BE CLEANED.
IDENTIFIED BY A WHITE OR LIGHT GRAY INSULATOR WITH SMALL BLACK OR GRAY BROWN SPOTS AND WITH BLUISH-BURNT APPEAR. ANCE OF ELECTRODES, CAUSED BY ENGINE OVERHEATING. WRONG TYPE OF FUEL, LOOSE SPARK PLUGS, TOO HOT A PLUG, LOW FUEL PUMP PRESSURE OR INCOR. RECT IGNITION TIMING. REPLACE THE PLUG.
FIG. 6- Spark Plug Inspection Guide
IDENTIFIED BY MEL TED ELECTRODES AND POSSIBLY BLISTERED INSULATOR. METALLIC DE POSITS ON INSULATOR INDICATE ENGINE DAMAGE. CAUSED BY WRONG TYPE OF FUEL, INCORRECT IGNITION TIMING OR ADVANCE, TOO HOT A PLUG, BURNT VALVES OR ENGINE OVERHEATING. REPLACE THE PLUG.
20-6
GROUP 20- MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS the cap out of the way (if necessary, remove the air cleaner and/ or the high tension wire to gain access to the distributor). Lift the rotor off the cam. Refer to applicable section of the Shop Manual for distributor point specifications.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION 1. Examine the firing ends of the spark plugs, noting the type of deposits· and the degree of electrode erosion. Refer to Fig. 6 for the various types of spark plug conditions and causes. 2. Clean the plugs on a sand blast cleaner, following the manufacturer's instructions. Do not prolong the use of the abrasive blast as it will erode the insulator. Remove carbon and other deposits from the threads with a stiff wire brush. Any deposits will retard the heat flow from the plug to the cylinder head causing spark plug overheating and preignition. 3. Clean the electrode surfaces with a small file (Fig. 7). Dress the electrodes to secure flat parallel surfaces on both the centre and side electrode. 4. Mter cleaning, examine the plug carefully for cracked or broken insulators, badly pitted electrodes, and other signs of failure. Replace as required.
INSPECTION Replace the distributor point assembly if the contacts are badly burned or excessive metal transfer between the points is evident. Metal transfer is considered excessive when it equals or exceeds the gap setting. REMOVAL-BOSCH DISTRIBUTORS 6 CYL. AND 302 VS
FIG. 7- Cleaning Spark Plug Electrode
ADJUSTMENT
INSTALLATION
Set the spark plug gap by bending the ground electrode (Fig. 8). Never bend the centre electrode. TESTING After the proper gap is obtained, check the plugs on a testing machine. Compare the sparking efficiency of the cleaned and gapped plug with a new plug. Replace the plug if it fails to pass the test as outlined in the tester instruction manual. Test the plugs for compression leakage at the insulator seal. Apply a coating of oil to the shoulder of the plug where the insulator projects through the shell, and to the top of the plug, where the centre electrode and terminal project from the insulator. Place the spark plug under pressure with the tester's high tension wire removed from the spark plug. Leakage is indicated by air bubbling through the oil. If the test indicates compression leakage, replace the plug. If the plug is satisfactory, wipe it clean.
FIG. 8 -Checking Spark Plug Gap CHECK AND ADJUST DISTRIBUTOR POINTS - REPLACE AS REQUIRED
Unsnap the distributor cap retaining clips, lift the distributor cap off the distributor housing, and position CONDITION
1. Assemble the contact breaker assembly by depressing the contact spring blade and pushing the movable breaker on to the stationary breaker. 2. Position the contact breaker assembly on to the breaker plate and secure with screw. 3. Replace contact breaker lead on primary terminal. 4. The breaker points must strike squarely, to align the breaker points carefully bend the stationary point bracket until full face contact is obtained. CAUSED BY
Incorrect voltage regulator setting. Radio condenser installed to the distributor side of the coil.
INSTALLATION 1. Install the spark plugs and torque each plug to 15-20 ft-lbs. 2. Connect the spark plug wires. Check wire position in support brackets. Press wires firmly into proper bracket slots. Push all weather seals into position.
1. Remove contact breaker lead from primary terminal connector. 2. Remove screw securing contact breaker assembly in breaker plate and lift off contact breaker as an assembly. 3. The contact breaker assembly may be separated by depressing the moving contact spring blade until the terminal block is clear of the stationary point.
EXCESSIVE METAL TRANSFER OR PITTING
Incorrect alignment. Incorrect voltage regulator setting. Radio condenser installed to the distributor side of the coil. Ignition condenser of improper capacity. Extended operation of the engine at speeds other than normal. 81443 -C
FIG. 9 -Breaker Point Inspection
PART 20-1- MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS
ing and snap the retaining clips in place.
rfi=D:=::~
CHECK IGNITION TIMING
~CORRECT.~ ALIGNMENT
C ONOT NTACT@ AREA CENTERED
MISALIGNMENT
o:o:::TR@ AREA NOT CENTERED B 3318-A
ISALIGNMENT OF POINT FACES
11019-A
FIG. 10- Breaker Point Alignment Guide
FIG. 12- Aligning Breaker Points 3. After the breaker points have been properly aligned, adjust the breaker point gap or dwell. DWELL ANGLE ADJUSTMENT
BEND STATIONARY BRACKET
FIG. 11 -Aligning Breaker Points - Typical 5. Reset the breaker point gap to speci.fications. 6. Replace rotor and distributor cap. BREAKER POINT ALIGNMENT 351C The vented-type breaker points used in Ford distributors must be accurately aligned in order to realize the full advantages provided by this design, and to assure normal breaker point life. Any misalignment of the breaker point surfaces will cause premature wear, overheating and pitting. 1. Turn the distributor cam so that the breaker points are closed and check the alignment of the points (Fig. 10). 2. Align the breaker points to make full face contact by bending the stationary breaker point bracket (Figs. 11 and 12). Do not bend the breaker arm.
20-7
Use a dwell meter to check the contact dwell. It is not advisable to use a feeler gauge to check the gap of used breaker points because the roughness of the points makes an accurate gap reading or setting impossible. If the used points are serviceable, set the gap using a dwell meter as follows: 1. Connect the dwell meter following the manufacturer's instructions. 2. Operate the engine at specified idle speed and note the reading on the dwell meter. 3. Stop the engine and adjust the gap (decreasing the gap increases the dwell). Now check the dwell again. 4. Repeat this .procedure until specified dwell is obtained. If new points are installed, set the gap to specifications using a feeler gauge. Check setting with dwell meter. If the distributor is equipped with dual breaker points, adjust the dwell of each set separately in order to get the specified combined dwell. The most precise method is to disconnect one set of points while adjusting the other, since spring tension on the cam is then equal. Alternately, a piece of plastic can be inserted between the contacts of one set to take it out of the circuit. As an example: where a 33 degree combined dwell is specified, the points are set separately at 25-25 1/ 2 degree to secure the specified 33 degree dwell. 5. Install the rotor. Install the distributor cap on the distributor hous-
To check and adjust the ttmmg with a power timing light, proceed as follows: 1. Remove the plug wire from the number 1 spark plug. 2. Install the spark plug adaptor on the spark plug. 3. Connect the plug wire to the spark plug adaptor. 4. Clamp the timing light spark plug lead to the spark plug adaptor. 5. Connect the timing light battery leads to the battery terminals. 6. Disconnect the distributor vacuum line. 7. If necessary, clean and mark the timing marks. 8. Operate the engine at the specified idle rpm and point the timing light at the timing pointer. 9. If the timing is incorrect, loosen the distributor hold down bolt and rotate the distributor until the desired initial advance is obtained. 10. Tighten the distributor hold down bolt and check the timing again. 11. Turn off the engine. 12. Remove the timing light and connect the vacuum line.
CARBURETTOR AIR CLEANER CLEAN OR REPLACE FILTER REMOVAL: 1. Remove the wing nut retaining the air cleaner (and duct if so equipped) assembly to the carburettor. 2. Remove the air cleaner (and duct if so equipped) assembly from the carburettor. To prevent dirt from entering the carburettor, the filter element must never be removed when the air cleaner body is mounted on the carburettor. 3. Remove the air cleaner cover and filter element. Discard the air cleaner mounting gasket if it is excessively worn or damaged.
20-8
GROUP 20- MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS
CLEANING FILTERING ELEMENT The cellulose fibre filter element must never be cleaned with a solvent or cleaning solution. Also, oil must not be added to the surfaces of the filter element or air cleaner body. There are two procedures that can be used to clean the air filter element. One method is performed with the use of compressed air. The other is performed by tapping the element on a smooth horizontal surface. Compressed Air Method. Direct a stream of compressed air through the element in the directioh opposite that of the intake air flow, that is from the inside outward. Extreme care must be exercised to prevent rupture of the element material. Tapping Method. Hold the element in a vertical position and tap it lightly against a smooth, horizontal surface to shake the dust and dirt out. Do not deform the element or damage the gasket surfaces by tapping too hard. Rotate the filter after each tap until the entire outer surface has been cleaned. Inspection. Hold the filter in front of a back-up light and carefully inspect it for any splits or cracks. If the filter is split or cracked, replace it.
sUN the word TOP faces up. 4. Install the cover and tighten the wing bolt.
CHECK BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER FLUID LEVEL 1. Remove the filler cap from the master cylinder. The diaphragm which seals the master cylinder should come off with the cap. 2. Fill the reservoir to i inch from the top with approved fluid. 3. Install the filler cap, making sure that the diaphragm is properly seated in the cap.
CHECK CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER FLUID LEVEL 1. Remove the filler cap from the master cylinder. 2. Top up the reservoir to t inch below the top face, with approved fluid. 3. Install the filler cap.
IDLE SPEED AND FUEL MIXTURE All XA/ZF Falcon/Fairlane
carburettors are equipped with idle fuel mixture adjusting limiters. The limiters control the maximum idle richness and help prevent unauthorized persons from making overly rich idle adjustments. The plastic idle limiter cap is installed on the head of the idle fuel mixture adjusting screw(s) (Figs. 13 and 14). Any adjustment made on carburettors having this type of limiter must be within the range- of the idle adjusting limiter. Under no circumstances are the idle adjusting limiters or the limiter stops on the carburettor to be mutilated or deformed to render the limiters inoperative. On the Motorcraft 21 00-D 2-V carburettor, the power valve cover must be installed with the limiter stops on the cover in
CHECK POWER STEERING RESERVOIR FLUID LEVEL Start the engine, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and right several times, and shut off the engine. Check the fluid level in the reservoir. If the level is low, add enough fluid to raise the level to the bottom of the filler neck. Do not overfill the reservoir.
CLEANING BODY AND COVER
CHECK BATTERY FLUID LEVEL
Clean the air cleaner body and the cover with a solvent or compressed air. If the air cleaner contains an opening for the crankcase ventilation system air flow, probe the opening to assure removal of deposits. Wipe the air cleaner dry if a solvent is used. Inspect the air cleaner body and cover for distortion or damage at the gasket mating surfaces. Replace the cover or body if they are damaged beyond repair.
The battery is mounted under the hood at the right front side of the engine compartment. Keep the fluid in each battery cell up to the level of the ring in the bottom of the filler well. Generally, tap water may be added unless it has a high mineral content or has been stored in a metal container.
FIG. 13 -Idle Fuel LimitersMotorcraft 4300 4-V IDLE ADJUSTING LIMITERS
CLEAN CHOKE EXTERNAL LINKAGE
INSTALLATION 1. Install a new air cleaner mounting gasket on the carburettor, if necessary. 2. Install the air cleaner body on the carburettor or position the air cleaner and air intake duct and valve assembly on the carburettor. 3. Place the air cleaner filter element in the air cleaner body. Make sure the filter is properly seated. If the word TOP is indicated on the filter element, make
Examine the choke external linkage for free operation. If the linkage appears to be sticking, or is dirty, clean the linkage using a brush and common mineral-spirits type cleaning fluid. Operate the choke plate manually to make sure that it moves freely. Lubricate the choke plate shaft at each end and the choke operating link with engine oil if necessary. Refer to the applicable section for choke adjustment specifications.
LIM IT ER STOPS
83114-A
FIG. 14- Motorcraft Modei2100-D
2-V Idle Adjusting Limiters and Limiter Stops - Bottom View
PART 20-1- MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS throttle plate(s) to seat in the throttle bore(s). 4. Turn the idle speed adjusting screw inward (outward for Stromberg BV2) until it just makes contact with the screw stop on the throttle shaft and lever assembly. Then, turn the screw inward (outward for BV2) 1t turns to establish a preliminary idle speed adjustment (Fig. 17). 5. Set the parking brake while making idle mixture and speed adjustments. NORMAL IDLE FUEL SETTINGSENGINE ON
FIG. 15 -Idle Fuel Mixture
Adiustment (BV2) position to provide a positive stop for tabs on the idle adjusting limiters (Fig. 14). A satisfactory idle should be obtainable within the range of the idle adjusting limiters, if all other engine systems are operating within specifications. Note: The limiter caps fitted to Stromberg carburettors is free turning on the head of the idle mixture adjusting screw. THE ONLY IDLE ADJUSTMENT ALLOWABLE IN NORMAL SERVICE IS THE ENGINE IDLE SPEED. Following are the normal procedures necessary to properly adjust the engine idle speed and fuel mixture. The specific operations should be followed in the sequence given whenever the idle speed or idle fuel adjustments are made. In isolated cases, a satisfactory idle condition may not be achieved by performing the normal procedures. If this occurs, refer to Additional Idle Speed and Fuel Mixture Procedures.
1. The engine and underhood temperatures must be stabilized before idle adjustments are made. Run the engine a minimum of 20 minutes at 1,500 rpm. This can be done by positioning the fast idle screw or cam follower on the kickdown step of the fast idle cam (Fig. 18). (Not applicable to Stromberg BV2). 2. Check the initial ignition timing and the distributor advance. Use an accurate-reading tachometer and timing light when checking the initial ignition timing and idle fuel mixture and speed. 3. On vehicles with a manual-shift transmission, the idle setting must be made only when the transmission is in Neutral. On vehicles with an automatic transmission, the idle setting is made with the transmission selector lever in the Drive range.
20-9
4. Be sure the choke plate is in the full-open position. 5. Turn the headlights on high beam to place the alternator under a load condition in order to properly adjust to the specified engine idle speed. 6. The final idle speed adjustment is made with the air conditioner (if equipped) turned ON. 7. Adjust the engine curb idle rpm to specifications. The tachometer reading (rpm) must be taken with the air cleaner installed. If it is not possible to adjust the idle speed with the air cleaner installed, remove it, make the adjustment, then replace the air cleaner and check again for the specified rpm. Manual transmission vehicles may be fitted with a solenoid throttle positioner. However, this is not connected on these engines and must be adjusted so as not to affect the engine idle speed. Idle speed adjustment is to be made on the normal throttle stop screw. 8. Turn the idle mixture adjusting screw(s) inward to obtain the smoothest idle possible within the range of the idle limiter( s), Motorcraft carburettors only. Turn the idle mixture adjusting screws inward an equal amount.
On 2- and 4-venturi carburettors, turn the idle mixture adjusting screws inward an equal amount. Check for idle smoothness only with the air cleaner installed.
NORMAL IDLE FUEL SETTINGS ENGINE OFF
1. Set the idle fuel mixture screw(s) Motorcraft craburettors only; to the full-counterclockwise position of the limiter cap(s) (Figs. 13 to 14). 2. Back off the curb idle speed adjusting screw (Fig. 17) until the throttle plate(s) seat in the throttle bore(s). 3. Be sure the dashpot or solenoid throttle positioner (if so equipped) is not interfering with the throttle lever (Fig. 19). It may be necessary to loosen the dashpot or solenoid to allow the
IDLE MIXTURE ADJUSTING SCREWS
FIG. 16 -Idle Fuel Mixture -
ww
20-10
GROUP 20- MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS
FAST I OLE
••ou•••.. ll+',····
( Bend u
FAST IDLE
MOTORCRAFT MODEL 4300-4V
STROMBERG (WW SERIES) STROMBERG (BV2) MOTORCRAFT MODEL 2100-D, 2V
FIG. 17 - Curb Idle Speed Adjusting Screws ADDITIONAL IDLE SPEED AND FUEL MIXTURE PROCEDURES
If satisfactory idle condition is not obtained after performing the preceding normal idle fuel settings, additional checks of engine systems must be performed. 1. The following items should be checked and, if required, corrected: a. Vacuum leaks. b. Ignition system wiring continuity. c. Spark plugs. d. Distributor breaker point dwell angle. e. Distributor point condition. f. Initial ignition timing. In certain instances, it may be possible that the idle condition is not as good as normally expected.
FAST IDLE ADJUSTMENT
2. If the idle condition is not improved after the items in Step 1 have been checked, perform the following engine mechanical checks: a. Fuel Level. b. Crankcase ventilation system. c. Valve clearance (using the collapsed tappet method for hydraulic valves). d. Engine compression. 3. Mter verification of all engine systems has been made, t!lere may be isolated cases where a satisfactory idl~ condition has not been obtained, due possibly to a lean idle fuel mixture, If this condition is encountered, refer to the specific carburettor section of Group 10 of this manual for correction procedure.
The fast idle adjusting screw (Fig. 18) contacts one edge of the fast idle cam. The cam permits a faster engine idle speed for smoother running when the engine is cold during choke operation. As the choke plate is moved through its range of travel from the closed to the open position, the fast idle cam pick-up lever rotates the fast idle cam. Each position on the fast idle cam permits a slower idle rpm as engine temperature rises and choking is reduced. Make certain the curb idle speed and mixture are adjusted
FAST IDLE ADJUSTING SCREW
FAST (Bend .u
••ou,, .. ,....,..,.
FAST IDLE CAM
STROMBERG (WW SERIES) MOTORCRAFT MODEL 4300-4V
MOTORCRAFT MODEL 2100-D, 2V
FIG. 18- Fast Idle Speed Adjustment
PART 20-1- MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS to specification before attempting to set the fast idle speed. 1. With the engine operating temperature normalized (hot), air cleaner removed and the tachometer attached, manually rotate the fast idle cam until the fast idle adjusting screw rests on the specified step on the cam. (Refer to the applicable carburettor section for specifications.) 2. Turn the fast idle adjusting screw inward or outward as required to obtain the specified fast idle rpm.
retaining screws. 3. If other carburettor adjustments are not required, install the heater hose and mounting bracket (if so equipped) and the air cleaner assembly on the carburettor. THERMOSTATIC SPRING HOUSING INDEX MARK
20-11
the choke lever. Hold in this position and check choke valve opening "D" with a drill . gauge. If opening is not 0.140", bend choke link at point indicated to obtain correct setting. After bending link, ensure choke valve does not bind in any position.
ANTI-STALL DASHPOT where fitted
1. With the engine idle speed and mixture properly adjusted, and the engine at normal operating temperature, loosen the anti-stall dashpot lock nut. 2. Hold the throttle in the closed position and depress the plunger with a screwdriver blade. Measure the clearance between the throttle lever and the plunger tip. Turn the antistall dashpot in a direction to provide the specified clearance between the tip of the plunger and the throttle lever. Tighten the locknut to secure the adjustment.
Preu and Hold Olaphratm
at Its full llmU of Trav..
FIG. 22- Vacuum KickStromberg WW Series CHOKE HOUSING INDEX MARK
82394-A
FIG. 20- Automatic Choke Thermostatic Spring Housing Adjustment - Typical CHOKE PLATE PULL DOWN CLEARANCE
STROMBERG WW SERIES (Figs. 21 and 22)
DASHPOT LOCKNUT
83134-A
Apply light closing pressure to choke valve, then open throttle valves to wide open position. The choke valve should open just enough to allow the insertion of drill gauge "C" between the choke valve and wall of air horn. Bend ear on the throttle lever as required to obtain correct opening of 0.250".
FIG. 19- Dashpot- Typical Installation AUTOMATIC CHOKE THERMOSTATIC SPRING HOUSING ADJUSTMENT
The automatic choke, where applicable, has an adjustment to control its reaction to engine temperature by loosening the clamp screws that retain the thermostatic spring housing to the choke housing. The spring housing can be turned to alter the adjustment. Refer to the specifications for the proper setting. 1. Remove the air cleaner assembly, heater hose and mounting bracket (if so equipped) from the carburettor. 2. Loosen the thermostatic spring housing clamp retaining screws. Set the spring housing to the specified index mark and tighten the clamp
BEND EAR OF
THROTTLE (AI reQuired)
MOTORCRAFT MODEL 2100D-2V CHOKE PLATE PULL DOWN CLEARANCE
1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. With the engine at normal operating temperature, loosen the choke thermostatic spring housing retainer screws and set the housing 90 degrees in the rich direction. 3. Disconnect and remove the choke heat tube from the choke housing. 4. Turn the fast idle adjusting screw outward one full turn. 5. Start the engine, then check for the specified clearance between the lower edge of the choke plate and the air horn wall (Fig. 23) . 6. If the clearance is not within specifications, turn the diaphragm stop screw (located on the underside of the choke diaphragm housing) clockwise to decrease or counterclockwise to increase the clearance. 7. Connect the choke heat tube and set the choke thermostatic spring housing to specifications. Adjust the fast idle speed to specifications. FAST IDLE CAM CLEARANCE
FIG. 21- Choke Plate Pull Down Clearance - Stromberg WW Series Depress diaphragm pull rod to the full limit of its travel and apply light upward pressure to choke lever to take up slack in linkage and to deflect the modulation spring so that the choke link is at the end of its slot in
1. Loosen the choke thermostatic spring housing retainer screws and set the housing 90 degrees in the rich direction. 2. Position the fast idle speed screw at the kickdown step of the fast idle cam. The kickdown step is identified by a V stamped on the cam (Fig. 24). On the 351-C engine, a two-piece fast idle lever is used to provide clearance between the lever and man-
20-12
GROUP 20-MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS DRILL OR GAUGE OF SPECIFIED CLEARANCE
FOR 351-C ENGINE
Vl261-A
FIG. 24- Fast Idle Levers Used on the Motorcraft Model2100-D 2-V Carburettor
FAST IDLE ADJUSTING SCREW
V1202-A
3. Block the throttle about halfopen so the fast idle cam does not contact the fast idle adjustment screw, then insert the bent end of the wire gauge between the \ower edge of the piston slot and the upper edge of the right hand slot in the choke housing (Fig. 25).
FIG. 23- Choke Plate Pulldown Clearance- Motorcraft Model 21 00-D 2-V Carburettor ifold, and a tang on the top lever will align with the V mark on the cam (Fig. 24). 3. Be sure the cam is at the kickdown position while checking or adjusting the fast idle cam clearance. Check for the specified clearance between the lower edge of the choke plate and the air horn wall. To adjust the clearance, turn the fast idle cam clearance adjusting screw clockwise to increase and counterclockwise to decrease the clearance. 4. Set the choke thermostatic spring housing to specifications. Adjust the anti-stall dashpot, idle speed and fuel mixture.
DRILL GAUGE OF SPECIFIED CLEARANCE SIZE
MOTORCRAFT MODEL 4300-4V CHOKE PLATE PULL DOWN CLEARANCE
1. Remove the air cleaner, then remove the choke thermostatic spring housing from the carburettor. Toremove the thermostatic spring housing from the carburettor installed on the engine, refer to Thermostatic Spring Housing and Gasket Replacement. 2. Bend a wire gauge of 0.036-inch diameter at a 90 degree angle approximately %-inch from one end.
APPLY LIGHT PRESSURE TO CHOKE LEVER
FIG. 25 -Choke Plate Pull-Down and Fast Idle Cam Adjustment
V1235-A
PART 20-1- MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS 4. Pull the choke piston lever counterclockwise until the gauge is snug in the piston slot. Hold the wire gauge in place by exerting light pressure in a rearward direction on the choke piston lever. Check the choke plate clearance (Pull down) between the lower edge of the choke plate and the wall of the air horn. 5. To adjust the choke plate clearance, loosen the hex. head screw (left hand thread) on the choke plate shaft (Fig. 25) and pry the link away irom the tapered shaft. Use a drill gauge 0.010-inch under the specified clearance between the lower edge of the choke plate and the wall of the air horn. Hold the choke plate against the gauge and maintain a light pressure in a rearward direction on the choke lever. With the choke piston snug against the 0.036-inch wire gauge and the choke plate against the drill gauge, tighten the hex. head screw (left hand thread) on the choke plate shaft. The use of a 0.010-inch undersize drill gauge is to allow for tolerances in the linkage. Use a drill gauge equal to the size of the specified clearance to make a final check. 6. Install the gasket and thermostatic spring housing on the choke housing. Install the spring housing retainer and screws. FAST IDLE CAM CLEARANCE
1. Rotate the spring housing counterclockwise (rich direction) to align the centre indeJC mark on the choke housing with the index mark on the spring housing. Rotate the spring housing an additional 90 degrees counterclockwise and tighten the retaining screws. 2. Position the fast idle speed adjusting screw end on the kickdown (centre) step of the fast idle cam. Check the clearance between the lower edge of the choke plate and the air horn wall. Turn the fast idle cam adjusting screw inward to increase the clearance or outward to decrease · the clearance. Make sure the fast idle speed adjusting screw stays at the kickdown step of the fast idle cam during the adjustment. On the 351-C engine, a two-piece fast idle lever is used to provide clearance between the lever and manifold, and a tang on the top lever will align with the V mark on the cam. 3. Set the thermostatic choke housing to the specified index mark and tighten the retaining screws.
4. If the choke plate clearance and fast idle cam linkage adjustment was performed with the carburettor on the engine, adjust the engine idle speed and fuel mixture. Adjust the anti-stall dashpot (if so equipped).
ACCELERATING PUMP STROKE ADJUSTMENT: STROMBERG (BV 2)
Do not remove the carburettor from the engine to adjust the pump stroke. To check the pump stroke:1. Start the engine and run at idle to normalise engine temperature. Set the engine to the correct idle speed. This is important as it gives the correct closed throttle position. 2. Stop engine and remove air cleaner assembly and carburettor air horn. 3. Measure from the top of the pump piston stem to the top face of the carburettor main body with gasket removed (Fig. 26).
20-13
the arm parallel with the pump stem. 6. Return the air horn gasket to its position and replace the air horn and air cleaner assembly. The capacity of the accelerator· pump is correctly calibrated at the specified pump stroke and any variation of this stroke outside the limits given must result in reduced performance and economy.
Stromberg WW Series With throttle valves fully closed against their bores (i.e. slow idle adjustment screw backed out clear of shut throttle lever), and with pump rod in throttle lever hole specified, check the external vent washer opening "J" as shown in Fig. 27. Bend pump rod at point indicated to obtain specified opening.
FIG. 27- Accelerator Pump Clearance -Stromberg WW Series NOTE: Make sure choke valve is held open during above check so that throttle valves can close fully. MOTORCRAFT MODEL 2100-D 2V
FIG. 26- Accelerator (6 cyl.) Pump Adjustment 4. Open throttle wide and again measure from the top of the pump piston stem to the top face of the carburettor main body with gasket removed. 5. The difference between these two measurements will be the length of the pump stroke. This length should be within the specified limits with the mean size of the limits being desirable. If the measurement is found to be outside the specified limits, the pump stroke can be adjusted by bending the arm (top, horizontal position) of the pump rod. No more than ·h " to ~~" adjustment should be required. Two bends in the arm will be necessary to keep the hole in
The stroke should not be changed from the specified setting. If the pump stroke has been changed from the specified setting refer to the following instructions to correct the stroke to specifications. The primary throttle shaft lever (overtravel lever) has 4 holes and the accelerating pump link has 4 holes (Fig. 28) to control the accelerating pump stroke. The accelerating pump operating rod should be in the specified hole in the overtravel lever and the inboard hole (hole closest to the pump plunger) in the accelerating pump link (Fig. 28). 1. To release the rod from the retaining clip, press the tab end of the clip toward the rod; then, at the same time, press the rod away from the clip until it is disengaged. 2. Position the clip over the specified hole in the overtravel lever.
20-14
GROUP 20- MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS !lEND ROD TO AD JUS f HUGHT
FIG. 29- Accelerating Pump Piston Stem Height and Pump Stroke
/
I V1507- B
FIG. 28
"ACCELERATOR PUMP STROKE MODEL 2100 CARBURETTOR"
Press the ends of the clip together and insert the operating rod through the clip and the overtravellever. Release the clip to engage the rod. MOTORCRAFT MODEL 4300-4V
The accelerating pump stroke has been set to help keep the exhaust emission level of the engine within the specified limits. The additional holes provided for pump stroke adjustment are for adjusting the stroke for specific engine applications. The stroke should not be changed from the specified setting. If the pump stroke has been changed from the specified setting refer to the following instructions to correct the stroke to specification. Before adjusting the accelerating
EJ
pump stroke, measure the height of the pump piston stem as shown in Fig. 29. Bend the pump control rod to correct the piston stem height to specifications. If it is necessary to correct the setting, the pump stroke can be altered as follows: 1. Remove the pump pivot pin retainer. Remove pivot pin. 2. Insert the pivot pin into the desired hole. 3. Install the pivot pin retainer. Position the pump rod end into the pump arm and install the retainer. VENT VALVE ADJUSTMENT: STROMBERG (BV 2) The vent valve adjustment is always performed after the accelera-
FIG. 30- Vent Valve Adjustment (6 cyl.) ting pump stroke adjustment has been completed. 1. Ensure the engine idle speed is correct and engine is at normal operating temperature. l'his is important as it gives correct closed throttle position. 2. Remove the air cleaner assembly and with the throttle in the idle position, loosen the vent valve locknut and adjust from .05"-.06" to the closed £OSition when throttle is opened (Fig. 30). 3. Install air cleaner assembly.
TRANSMISSION, CLUTCH AND REAR AXLE
CHECK TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL Refer to Part 19, Maintenance Schedule, for recommended frequency of service. MANUAL TRANSMISSION($) 1. Remove the filler plug from the side of the case. 2. If lubricant does not flow from
the filler hole, fill the case with the specified lubricant until it is level with the lower edge of the filler hole. 3. Install the filler plug. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION($) 1. Make sure the car is standing level. Then firmly apply the parking brake. 2. Run the engine at normal idle speed. If the transmission fluid is cold, run the engine at fast idle speed (about 1200 rpm) until the fluid
reaches its normal operating temperature. When the fluid is warm, slow the engine down to normal idle speed. 3. Shift the selector lever through all positions, place the lever at P and check the fluid level. 4. Clean all dirt from the transmission fluid dipstick cap before removing the dipstick from the filler tube. 5. Pull the dipstick out of the tube, wipe it clean, and push it all the way
PART 20-1- MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS back into the tube. Be sure it is properly seated. 6. Pull the dipstick out of the tube again, and check the fluid level. If necessary, add enough fluid to the transmission through the filler tube to raise the fluid level to the F (full) mark on the dipstick. Do not overfill the transmission. ADJUST AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION BAND(S) Refer to Part 19, Maintenance Schedule, for recommended fre-
FIG. 31-lntermediate Band
quency of service.
C4 INTERMEDIATE BAND 1. Clean all dirt from the band adjusting screw area, remove and disca.cd the lock nut, install a new lock nut, do not tighten. 2. Torque the adjusting screw to 10ft. lbs., when using tool J-21111 or BW-547A-50-2 set the torque wrench (W & B model 3200B) to 60 in. lbs. This will result in 10 ft. lbs. torque at the screw(see Fig. 31). 3. BACK OFF THE ADJUSTING SCREW EXACTLY 1t TURNS. 4. Hold the adjusting screw from turning and torque the lock nut. to specification. LOW- REVERSE BAND Proceed as for intermediate band adjustment except for Step (3), where the adjusting screw is backed off exactly three (3) full turns (see Fig. 32). BORG WARNER FRONT BAND ADJUSTMENT Remove the fifteen bolts and lock-
Adiustment - C4
FIG. 32 - Low-Reverse Band
FIG. 33- Front Band Adiustment
Adiustment - C4
FIG. 34- Rear Band Adiustment- Borg Warner
20-15
washers securing the transmtsston oil pan and detach the oil pan and gasket. Slacken the adjusting screw locknut, move the servo lever outwards and place a 0.25 in. gauge between the servo piston pin and the adjusting screw (see Fig. 33). Tighten the adjusting screw to a torque of 10 in. lbs., tighten the locknut and then remove the gauge block. Ensure that the mating faces are clean and refit the oil pan with a new gasket. Tighten the fifteen bolts in their lock-washers to a torque of 8 to 10ft. lbs. REAR-REVERSE BAND 1. Clean all the dirt from the band adjusting screw area. Loosen the lock nut several turns. 2. With the tools shown in Fig. 34, tighten the adjusting screw to a torque of 10ft. lbs. 3. Back off the adjusting screw exactly i of a turn. 4. Hold the adjusting screw from turning and torque the lock nut to specification. Where neces~ary, to gain access to the adjusting screw, support the transmission with a floor jack and remove the two nuts securing the rear support assembly to the subframe. Lower the transmission to allow sufficient clearance between the transmission and floor pan. FMX TRANSMISSION FRONT BAND ADJUSTMENT 1. Loosen the pan attaching bolts starting at the rear of the pan and working towards the front. When most of the fluid has drained from the pan, remove the remainder of the attaching bolts. If the same fluid is to be used again in the transmission after the band adjustment, filter the fluid through a tOOmesh screen as it drains from the transmission. Make sure that the
20-16
GROUP 20- MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS
01015-C
FIG. 35- Typical Front Band Adjustment- FMX
FIG. 36- Adjusting Rear Band -FMX container is clean. Reuse the fluid only if it is in good condition. 2: Remove and thoroughly clean the pan, then remove the fluid screen
EJ
and clip from the transmission. Clean the inside of the pan. Do not attempt to clean the filter. If dirty install a new one. Discard the pan gasket. Remove all gasket material from pan and pan mounting face of case. 3. Loosen the front servo adjusting screw locknut two full turns. 4. Pull back on the actuating lever, then insert the Gauge Block Tool 7225-CI3-B, of front band adjusting Tool 7225-C (Fig. 35) between the servo piston stem and adjusting screw. Tighten the adjusting screw until the wr~nch overruns (this should be exactly 10 in. lbs). Remove the gauge block. Tighten the adjusting screw an additional ! turn. Hold the adjusting screw stationary and tighten the locknut to specifications. 5. Install the transmission fluid screen and clip. Install the pan, using a new gasket. 6. Refill the transmission. 7. Start the engine and engage the transmission in each drive range to fill all fluid passages, then place the selector in the "P" position. Check the fluid level and add enough fluid to bring the level above the ADD mark on the dipstick with engine running at idle speed. REAR BAND ADJUSTMENT
1. Remove all dirt from the adjusting screw threads, then oil the
threads. 2. Loosen the reverse band adjusting screw lock nut. Use the tool shown in Figure 36 to loosen the nut. Using the torque wrench shown in Fig. 38 tighten the adjusting screw until the tool handle clicks. The tool is a preset torque wrench which clicks and breaks when the torque on the adjusting screw reached 10 ft.lbs. 3. If the screw is found to be tighter than wrench capacity (10 ft. lbs torque), loosen the screw and tighten until the wrench clicks and breaks. 4. Back off the adjusting screw It turns. Hold the adjusting screw stationary and tighten the adjusting screw lock nut to 35-40 ft.lbs torque. Severe damage may result if the adjusting screw is not backed off exactly 1l turns. CHECK REAR AXLE FLUID LEVEL
The lubricant level should be maintained at ·the lower.edge of the filler plug hole with the specified lubricant. CLUTCH LINKAGE (MANUAL TRANSMISSION)
There is no adjustment required or provided for on any of the clutch systems. The only maintenance required is to top up the master cylinder to the correct level, approximately t in. below the top face, with approved fluid.
UNDER BODY, STEERING AND ALIGNMENT
LUBRICATE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION KICKDOWN LINKAGE
Lubricate all pivot points in the kickdown linkage with the specified engine oil. LUBRICATE FRONT SUSPENSION BALL JOINTS Wipe any accumula~ed dirt from around the lubrication plugs. Remove the plugs and install lubrication fittings. Lubricate the ball joints using a maximum of 10 grams (one level teaspoon) of the specified lubricant and remove the lubrication fittings. Install the plugs. LUBRICATE UPPER ARM INNER BUSHES
Refer to Part 19, Maintenance Schedule, for recommended frequency of lubrication.
By utilising the access holes in the suspension towers, wipe off any accumUlated dirt from around the lubrication fittings and lubricate the inner bushes using a maximum of 3.2 grams per bushing. CHECK STEERING GEAR PRELOAD POWER STEERING ONLY
To check and adjust the power steering gear pre-load it is necessary to remove the steering box from the vehicle and carry out the operation on the bench. See page 3-36 CHECK STEERING GEAR PRELOAD MANUAL STEERING ONLY
There are only two possible adjust-
ments within the recirculating balltype steering gear, and these should be made in the following order to avoid damage or gear failure. 1. Loosen the nut which locks the sector adjusting screw (Fig. 38), and turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise. 2. Measure the worm bearing preload by attaching an in. lb. torque wrench to the steering wheel nut (Fig. 37). With the steering wheel off centre, read the pull required to rotate the input shaft approximately 1t turns either side of centre. If the torque or preload is not within specication (Part 3-6), adjust as explained in the next step. 3. Loosen the steering shaft bear-
PART 20-1- MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS CHECK BRAKE LINES AND LINING DRUM BRAKES
FIG. 37- Checking Preload ing adjuster lock nut, and tighten or back off the bearing adjuster (Fig. 38) to bring the preload within the specified limits. 4. Tighten the steering shaft bearing adjuster lock nut, and recheck the preload. 5. Turn the steering wheel slowly to either stop. Turn gently against the stop to avoid possible damage to the ball return guides. Then rotate the wheel 2! turns to centre the ball nut. 6. Turn the sector adjusting screw clockwise until the specified pull (Part 3-6) is necessary to rotate the worm past its centre high spot (Fig. 37). No perceptible backlash is permissible at 300 on either side of centre. 7. While holding the sector adjusting screw, tighten the lock nut to specification and recheck the backlash adjustment. 8. Connect the Pitman arm to the sector shaft and torque to specification. I'IWI PWG
ADJUSTB LOCK NUT
SECTOI SHAFT ADJUSTING SCREW
FIG. 38- Typical Steering Gear Adjustments
Raise all four wheels. Remove one of the front brake drums, and inspect the drum and the linings (the wheel bearings should be inspected at this time and repacked if necessary). Do not let oil or grease touch the drum or the linings. If the linings are worn to within "3~ inch of the rivet heads on rivetted linings or shoe on bonded linings, replace or reline both sets (primary and secondary) on the front or rear wheels. Under no circumstances replace one lining only, or one wheel set. Both front wheel sets or both rear wheel sets should be replaced whenever a respective lining or shoe is worn or damaged. If the drum braking surface is excessively scored, refinish it. The condition of the remaining front linings is usually about the same as that of the one inspected. The rear brake linings may also need replacing at the same time. FRONT WHEEL DISC BRAKES
Raise all four wheels. Remove one of the front wheel and tyre assemblies, and inspect the disc caliper, and linings (the wheel bearings should be inspected at this time and repacked if necessary). Do not let oil or grease touch the disc or the linings. If the linings are V'{Orn to within 0.030 inch of the surface of the shoe, replace both sets of shoe and lining assemblies (inboard and outboard) on the front wheels. Under no circumstances replace one shoe and lining assembly only, or one wheel set. Both front wheel sets should be replaced whenever a respective shoe and lining is worn or damaged. If the disc braking surface is excessively scored, distorted, warped, worn or shows excessive runout, it should be replaced. If the caliper is cracked or otherwise damaged, it must be replaced as a unit. With the parking brakes in the fully released position, check the brake cables. The cable adjustment should be just tight enough to remove the slack. Excessive tightening may pull the brake shoes off their anchors. Check all brake lines for leakage or physical damage and replace or repair as .required. CLEAN AND PACK FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS DRUM BRAKES
20-17
1. Raise the car until the wheel and tyre clear the floor. 2. Remove the wheel cover or hub cap. Remove the grease cap from the hub. Remove the cotter pin, nut lock, adjusting nut, and flat washer from the spindle. Remove the outer bearing cone and roller assembly. 3, Pull the wheel, hub, and drum assembly off the wheel spindle. 4. Remove the grease retainer and the inner bearing cone and roller assembly from the hub with a drift. 5. Clean the lubricant off the inner and outer bearing cups with solvent and inspect the cups for scratches, pits, excessive wear, and other damage. If the cups are worn or damaged, remove them with a drift. 6. Thoroughly clean the inner and outer bearing cones and rollers with solvent, and dry them thoroughly. Do not spin the bearings dry with compressed air. 7. Inspect the cone and roller assemblies for wear or damage, and replace them if necessary. The cone and roller assemblies and the bearings cups should be replaced as a unit if damage to either is encountered. 8. Thoroughly clean the spindle and the inside of the hub with solvent to remove all old lubricant. Cover the spindle with a clean cloth, and brush all loose dust and dirt from the brake assembly. To prevent getting dirt on the spindle, carefully remove the cloth from the spindle. 9. If the inner and/ or outer bearing cup(s) were removed, install the replacement cup(s) in the hub. Be sure to seat the cups properly in the hub. . 10. No grease should be packed mto the hubs between the bearing cups. 11. All old grease should be completely cleaned from the bearings before repacking them with new grease. Pack the bearing cone and roller assemblies with wheel bearing grease. A bearing packer is desirable for this operation. If a packer is not available, work as much lubricant as possible between the rollers and• cages. Lubricate the cone surfaces with grease. 12. Place the inner bearing cone and ~oller assembly in the inner cup, and mstall the new grease retainer. Be sure that the retainer is properly seated. Smear wheel bearing grease around seal lip. 13. Install the wheel, hub, and drum assembly on the wheel spindle.
GROUP 20- MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS
20-18
Wi th drum/ d i s c and wheel r ot ati ng, to rq ue ad jus ting nut t o 17-25 ft lbs .
Back off adjusting nut until an end float of .002-.008"
Selectivly position .tne nut loc~ retainer on the adjysting nut and locr in post tion with a new cotter pin .
FIG. 39- Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment INNER BEARING
HUB AND ROTOR
ASSEMBLY
GREASE RETAINER
~~~
ADJUSTING NUT
GREASE CAP
INNER BEARING CONE AND ROLLER
WHEEL ASSEMBLY F 1259 - A
FIG. 40- Hub and Bearing- Disc Brakes Keep the hub centred on the spindle to prevent damage to the grease retainer or the spindle threads. 14. Install the outer bearing cone and roller assembly and the fiat washer on the spindle; then install the adjusting nut (Fig. 40). 15. Adjust the wheel bearings (Fig. 39) and install a new cotter pin. Bend the ends of the cotter pin around the castellations of the nut lock. Install the grease cap. 16. Install the hub cap or wheel cover. DISC BRAKES
1. Raise the car until the wheel and tyre clear the floor. 2. Remove the wheel cover or hub cap. 3. Remove the wheel and tyre from the hub. 4. Remove the bolts attaching the caliper to the spindle. Remove the caliper from the disc and wire it to the underbody to prevent damage to the brake hose. 5. Remove the grease cap from the hub. Remove the cotter pin, nut lock, adjusting nut, and fiat washer from the spindle. Remove the outer
bearing cone and roller assembly (Fig. 40). 6. Pull the hub and disc off the wheel spindle. 7. Remove the grease retainer and the inner bearing cone and roller assembly from the hub. 8. Clean the lubricant off the inner and outer bearing cups with solvent and inspect the cups for scratches, pits, excessive wear, and other damage. If the cups are worn or damaged, remove them from the hub with a drift. 9. Thoroughly clean the inner and outer bearing cones and rollers with solvent, and dry them thoroughly. Do not spin the bearings with compressed air. Inspect the cone and roller assemblies for wear or damage, and replace them if necessary. The cone and roller assemblies and the bearing cups should be replaced as a unit if damage to either is encountered. 10. Thoroughly clean the spindle and the inside of the hub with solvent to remove all old lubricant. Cover the spindle with a clean cloth, and brush all loose dust and dirt from the brake assembly. To
prevent getting dirt on the spindle, carefully remove the cloth from the spindle. 11. If the inner and/ or outer bearing cup(s) were removed, install the replacement cup(s). Be sure to seat the cups properly in the hub. . 12. No grease should be packed mto the hubs between the bearing cups. 13. All old grease should be completely cleaned from the bearings before repacking them, with new grease. Pack the bearing cone and roller assemblies with wheel bearing grease. A bearing packer is desirable for this operation. If a packer is not available, work as much lubricant as possible between the rollers and cages. Lubricate the cone surfaces with grease. 14. Place the inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the inner cup, and install the new grease retainer. Be sure that the retainer is properly seated. Smear wheel bearing grease around the seal lip. 15. Install the hub and rotor on the wheel spindle. Keep the hub centred on the spindle to prevent damage to the grease retainer or the spindle threads. 16. Install the outer bearing cone and roller assembly and the fiat washer on the spindle, then install the adjusting nut. 17. Position the caliper over the disc and install the attaching bolts. 18. Install the wheel and tyre on the hub. 19. Adjust the wheel bearings, and install a new cotter pin. Bend the ends of the cotter pin around the castellations of the nut lock. Install the grease cap. 20. Install the hub cap or wheel cover and lower the car. CHECK AND ADJUST PARKING BRAKE LINKAGE
Check the parking brake cables when the brakes are fully released. If the cables are loose, adjust them as follows: 1. Fully release the parking brake by turning the handle counter clockwise and pushing it inward. 2. Pull the parking brake handle outward to the first notch from its normal released position. 3. Raise the car and loosen the adjustment lock nut. 4. Turn the locking adjustment nut forward against the equalizer until a moderate drag is felt when turning the rear wheels in the direction of forward rotation (Fig. 41).
20-19
PART 20-1- MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS
VIEW .. C.CLE W TYPICAL 3 ~ACES VIEW
IN CIRCLE Y
YIEW .. CIRCLE T
TORO.I.£ 'TO
?-10 LI. H
VIEW IN
OACL[
U
• FIG. 41 -Parking Brake Linkage 5. Release the parking brake, and make sure that the brake shoes return to the fully released position and no drag is felt when turning the rear wheels. CHECK TIRE PRESSURES
Check all tyres for specified pressures (cold). INSPECT AND CROSS-SWITCH WHEELS AND TIRES
Switi::h tyres according to Fig. 42. Tighten the wheel nuts to specified torque. CHECK FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT AND LINKAGE
FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT CHECKS Do not check and adjust front wheel alignment without first making the following inspection for front end maladjustment, damage, or wear. 1. Check for specified air pressures in all four tyres. 2. Raise the front of the car off the floor. Shake each front wheel grasp-
ing the upper and lower surfaces of the tyre. Check the front suspension ball joints and mountings for looseness, wear, and damage. Check the brake backing plate mountings. Torque all loose nuts and bolts to specifications. 3. Check the steering gear mountings and all steering linkage connections for looseness. Torque all mountings to specifications. If any of the linkage is worn or bent, replace the parts. 4. Check the front wheel bearings. If any in-and-out free play is noticed, adjust the bearings to specification. Replace worn or damaged bearings. 5. Check and balance each wheel as required.
F1019-A
FIG. 42- Tyre Cross-Switching Diagram
6. Check the action of the shock absorbers. If the shock absorbers are not in good condition, the car may not settle in a normal, level position, and front wheel alignment may be affected. Wheel Inspection. Wheel hub nuts should be inspected and tightened to specification at pre-delivery. Loose wheel hub nuts may cause shimmy and vibration. Elongated stud holes in the wheels may also result from loose hub nuts. Keep the wheels and hubs clean. Stones wedged between the wheel and drum and lumps of mud or grease can unbalance a wheel and tyre. Check for damage that would affect the runout of the wheels. Wobble or shimmy caused by a damaged wheel will eventually damage the wheel bearings. Inspect the wheel rims for dents that could permit air to leak from the tyres. Check all the factors of front wheel alignment except the turning angle before making any adjustments. The turning angle should be checked only after caster, camber, and toe-in have
20-20
GROUP 20-MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS
been adjusted to specifications. Equipment Installation. Equipment used for front wheel alignment inspection must be accurate. If portable equipment is being used, perform all inspection operations on a level floor. Alignment height spacers (Figs. 44 and 45) are used to check caster and camber except on GT. The spacers should be omitted when checking toe-in. 1. Drive the car in a straight line far enough to establish the straightahead position of the front wheels, and then mark the steering wheel hub and the steering column collar (Fig. 43). Do not adjust the steering wheel spoke position at this time. If the front wheels are turned at any time during the inspection, align the marks to bring the wheels back to the straight-ahead position.
ALIGNMENT MARKS
FIG. 43- Straight Ahead
Position Marks Tool -
+3
Typical
3000- A or B
FIG. 45- Alignment Spacers-
Rear
2. With the car in position for the front end alignment inspection and adjustment, install the alignment spacers as follows to establish th.:: curb height. Insert the pin in the spacer hole marked for the model being checked. Raise the front of the car and position the alignment spacers between the suspension upper arm and the spring tower as shown in Fig. 44. The lower end of the spacer should be placed over the head of the ball joint front outside attaching rivet. Position the alignment spacers for the rear of the car between the rear axle and the side rail as shown in (Fig. 45).
FIG. 44- Alignment Spacers -
Front CASTER ADJUSTMENT
wheels are tilted at the top. If a wheel tilts outward, camber is positive. If a wheel tilts inward, camber is negative. Correct camber specifications are given in Part 3-7. The maximum difference between both front wheel camber angles should not exceed to. However, a difference of not more than ! o is preferred. Toe-In. Before attempting to check toe-in, remove all the alignment spacers. Toe-in should only be checked and adjusted after the caster and camber have been adjusted to specifications. Check the toe-in with STRUT
3. Install the wheel alignment equipment on the car. Whichever type of equipment is used, follow the installation and inspection instructions provided by the equipment manufacturer. Caster. Check the caster angle at each front wheel. The caster is the forward or rearward tilt of the top of the wheel spindle. If the spindle tilts to the rear, caster is positive. The spindle tilts to the front, caster is negative. See Part 3-7 for the correct caster specifications. The maximum difference between both front wheel caster angles should not exceed f However, a difference of not more than ! o is preferred. 0
•
Camber. Check the camber angle at each front wheel. Camber is the amount the front
FIG. 46- Caster and Ca.mber Adiustments
20-21
PART 20-1- MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS the front wheels in the straight-ahead position. Run the engine so that the power steering control valve will be in the centre (neutral) position if so equipped. Measure the distance between the extreme front and also between the extreme rear of both front wheels. The differrenee between these two distances is the toe-in. Specifications are in Part 3-7. · Front Wheel Turning Angle. When the inside wheel is turned 20°, the turning angle of the outside wheel should be as specified in Part 3-7. The turning angle cannot be adjusted directly because it is a result of the combination of caster, camber, and toe-in adjustments and should therefore, be measured only after these adjustments have been made. If the turning angle does not measure to specifications, check the spindle or other suspension parts for a bent condition. Mter front wheel alignment factors have been checked, make the necessary adjustments. Do not attempt to adjust front wheel alignment by bending the suspension or steering parts. CASTER AND CAMBER ADJUSTMENTS Caster is controlled by the front suspension strut (Fig. 46). To obtain negative caster, loosen the strut front nut and tighten the strut rear nut against the bushing. To obtain positive caster, loosen the strut rear nut and tighten the strut front nut against the bushing. Camber. Camber is controlled by the eccentric cam located at the lower arm attachment to the side rail (Fig. 46). To adjust the camber, loosen the eccentric bolt nut and rotate the bolt and eccentric clockwise from the high position to increase camber or counterclockwise to decrease camber. Mter the caster and camber have been adjusted to specification, torque the lower arm eccentric bolt nut and the s_trut front nut to specification. TOE-IN AND STEERING WHEEL SPOKE POSITION ADJUSTMENTS Check the steering wheel spoke position when the front wheels are in the straight-ahead position. If the spokes are not in their normal position, they can be properly adjusted while toe-in is being adjusted. 1. Loosen the two clamp bolts on each spindle connecting rod sleeve (Fig. 47).
SLEEVE
noaa-• FIG. 47- Spindle Connecting Rod Sleeve CLAMP BOLTS
2. Adjust toe-in. If the steering wheel spokes are in their normal position, lengthen or shorten both rods equally to obtain correct toe-in (Fig. 49). If the steering wheel spokes are not in their nortmll position, make the necessary rod adjustments to obtain correct toe-in and steering wheel spoke alignment. 3. Recheck toe-in and the steering wheel spoke position. If toe-in is correct and the steering wheel spokes are still not in their normal position, turn both connecting rod sleeves upward or downward the same number of turns to move the steering wheel spokes (Fig. 50). 4. When toe-in and the steering wheel spoke position are both correct, torque the clamp bolts on both connecting rod sleeves to specification. The sleeve position should be as shown in Fig. 48 when the clamp bolts are tightened.
FIG. 48-Spindle Connecting Rod Sleeve Clamp Position TURN DOWNWARD TO INCREAsE ROD l.fNGTH
TUIN UPWARD TO DECREASE
~'6;~-; Lin-HAND SLIIVI
TUIN DOWNWARD TO DECREASE
TUIN Uf'WAID TO INCREASE ROD lfNGTH
C«fl liGHT-HAND SL11V1
P1037-1
FIG. 49- Spindle Connecting Rod Adjustments WHEN TOE . IH IS CORRECT TURN IIOTH CONNECTING ROD SLEEVES UPWARD TO ADJUST SPOKE POSITION
TURN BOTH CONNECTING ROD SLEEVES DOWNWARD TO
IS~
WHEN TOE·IN NOT CORRECT LENGTHEN LEFT ROO TO INCREASE TOE ·IN
LENGHTEN RIGHT ROO TO INCREASE TOE -IN
SHORTEN RIGHT ROO TO DECREASE TOE .IN ADJUST BOTH RODS EQUALLY TO MAINTAIN NVRMAL SPOKE POSITION
FIG. 50- Toe-in and Steering Wheel Spoke Adjustments
20-22
~~
GROUP 20- MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS
BODY
LUBRICATE BONNET LATCH
Apply Petroleum Jelly to all pivot points and to the striker plate as required to eliminate any binding condition. Operate the latch mechanism several times to be sure that the lubricant has effectively worked in. LUBRICATE BONNET SAFETY CATCH
Apply Petroleum Je11y to ail pivot points as required to eliminate any binding conditions. Operate the catch several times to be sure that the lubricant has effectively worked in. LUBRICATE BONNET HINGE PIVOTS
Apply approved Engine Oil to the hinge pivot points as required. Open and close the bonnet several times to be sure that the hinge pivots do not bind. REPLACE WINDSHIELD WIPER BLADES
Wiper blade replacement inter-vals will vary with the amount of use, type of weather, chemical reaction from road tars or salts and the age of the blades. Be sure that the windshield glass surface is not contaminated with oil, tree sap or other
foreign substance which cannot be easily rubbed off. Generally, if the wiper pattern across the glass is still uneven and streaked after these tests, replace the blades. LUBRICATE DOOR LOCK CYLINDERS
Apply Ford locK lubricant sparingly through the key slot. Insert the key and operate the lock several times to be sure that the lubricant has effectively worked in. LUBRICATE DOOR HINGE AND HINGE CHECK
Apply approved Engine Oil on the hinge pivot points as required to eliminate any binding condition. Open and close the door several times to be sure that the lubricant has effectively worked in.
make doors easier to close. LUBRICATE LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT LOCK CYLINDER
Apply Ford lock lubricant sparingly through the key slot. Insert the key and operate the lock s_everal times to be sure that the lubricant has effectively worked in. LUBRICATE LUGGAGE
COMPARTMENT HINGE PIVOTS Apply approved Engine Oil to the hinge pivot points as required. Open and close the luggage compartment several times to be sure that the hinge pivots do not bind. LUBRICATE TAILGATE LOCK
CYLINDER
LUBRICATE SEAT TRACK
Apply Ford lock lubricant sparingly through the key slot. Insert the key and operate the lock.
Use Petroleum Jelly on the seat track slides, as required, for ease of operation.
CLEAN BODY DRAIN HOLES OR EXAMINE DUST VALVES FOR PROPER OPERATION
LUBRICATE WEATHERSTRIP AND RUBBER SEALS
Make sure the drain holes in the doors, rocker panels and quarter panels are free from obstruction. Visually check the dust valves for proper sealing and draining operation.
Use Silicone Lubricant AM400 to lubricate door weatherstrips to eliminate weatherstrip squeaks and
FALCON FAIRLANE w~:~~~~P
SPECIAL TOOLS
GROUP 21
PAGE
PART 21-1-
Special Tools
21-2
21-2
PART 21-1
SPECI AL
TOOLS
The service tools illustrated in this part have been developed especially for Ford vehicles by the Sales Service Engineering Department.
are essential to prevent damage to parts, to assure correct assembly and quality workmanship, or where substantiated time saving can be achieved by the use of the tool.
Engineering prototypes, test vehicles, assemblies and components are used to thoroughly evaluate the need for Special Service Tools . During this evaluation, general purpose hand tools are used wherever possible for assembly, disassembly and adjustment. Special Service Tools are developed and specified where they
This part lists Special Service Tools in two categories. MANDATORY: These are tools which are considered essential to performance of quality service work. It is required that these tools be available in every dealership service area and that they be consistently used
in the service operations for which they are specified. RECOMMENDED: These are tools which, while not considered mandatory, will contribute substantially to the performance of high quality service work in the minimum possible time. Tools indicated * on the following pages are distributed by George Sample and Son Pty. Ltd. Those marked t by Repco . Those marked ** by Litchfield.
PART 21-1- SPECIAL TOOLS
21-3
• 1177-C
ReF· l11cer-Re"r Wheel Be11ring Oi Se11l (All Models)
FIG. 1- Replacer-ear Wheel Bearing Oil Seal
REAR AXLE • AGF-1225-A
Re11r Axle Sh.,ft Be11ring Remover & Repl11cer
FIG. 2-Axle Shaft Bearing Remover & Replacer AGF 1225-A-1
t
Rear Axle Shaft Bearing Remover & Replacer Adaptor Use with Tool AGF-1225-A
FIG. 3-Rear Axle Shaft Bearing Remover & Replacer Adaptor
FIG. 4- Tapered Axle Bearing Remover - XYTC-1225-A
21-4
GROUP 21- SPECIAL TOOLS
2
t
4
Breke Tools (Drum Brekes) All Models
t 2 3 4
M818 M402 M804 M802
Breke Cylinder Clemp Sternut Breke Tool Reteining Spring Tool Return Spring Tool
3
FIG. 5- Brake Tools (Drum Brakes) ·----
--·---~,-~
t
Disc Brake Rotor Gauge
-
R1102A.
t FIG. 6- Disc Brake Rotor Gauge- R-1102-A
t •
T65P-3A733-A Power Steering Pump Pulley Replocer
FIG. 7- Power Steering Pump Pulley Replacer
21-5
• \b3L-10300 B Power Steering PumP Pulley Remover
·t) FIG. 8- power Steering PumP PulleV Remover
1bSL-33bi0-0
Pressure
Power Steering PumP Gauge \All Models)
FIG- 9- power Steering pumP Pressure Gauge
~
•• XA-3526·A
-
andSP'<"
~::::::::::::=~~="""""""""""=R=em~!ov:e:lnPut) Snaft Seal ** )(A-3521-B
ExtractorWorm Race
** XA-374309-A
Fitting Tool lube Seat
f\G. 12- fitting Tool Tube Seat
21-6
GROUP 21- SPECIAL TOOLS
** XA -3771 -A Wed ge Sl eeve Coupl ing
FIG. 13- Wedge Sleeve Coupling ** XA -3589 -B
** XA -3544-A
Contra ctor Sleeve Rings
Contractor Pisto n Ring
'
1-'
FIG. 14- Contractor Piston Ring
FIG . 15 - Cont ra ctor Sleeve Rings
XA -370 7-A R 1ng Spanner
FIG. 16 - Ring Spanner
.,. .
XA -3525 -A, 1 Replacer Input Shaft Beari ng and Sector Shaft Sea l
"
XA -35 25 A Replacer Input Shaft Bearing and Sea l
FIG. 17 - Replacer Input Shaft Bearing and Sector Shaft Seal
FIG . 18 - Replacer Inp ut Shaft Bearing and Seal
PART 21-1- SPECIAl TOOLS **
**
XA-3576-A3
21-7
XA -3576-A
Sector S haft Bearing Too l
Was her Sector Shaft Bearing Tool
**
XA -3576-A 1
Sector Shaft Bearing Tool Spacer
\
~~ ~
0 .
\
FIG. 21 -Sector Shaft Bearing Tool
II **
XA -3576-A2
Se
FIG . 20 - Washer Sector
FIG. 19- Sector Shaft
Shaft Bearing Tool
FIG. 22- Sector Shaft Bearing
Bearing Tool Spacer
Tool Guide
**
XA- 10064-A
Mou nt ing Bracket
FIG . 23 - Mounting Bracket
**
XA -3589 -A
**
Expander Sleeve Seals
XA -3775 -A
Gauge for Bearing Spacer
.©
**
XA -371 3- A
F itt ing To ol Outlet Tube
FIG. 25 - Gauge for Bearing Spacer
FIG. 24 - Expander Sleeve Seals FIG. 26- Fitting Tool Outlet Tube
GROUP 21-SPECIAL TOOLS
21-8
t •
T65P-3000B Suspension Alignment Spocers
FIG. 27- Suspension Alignment Spacers
SUSPENSION-STEERING -WHEELS AND TYRES • ACX 3006 Remover Press-Spindle
t •
Ball Joint (All Models) ACX 3006 D Adaptor. Spindle Ball Press
Joint
FIG. 28- Ball Joint Tool
4010 A Reor Axle Spreoder ond Adopter Plotes Adaptor Plates 40 I0-A- 1
(§Jo
0~
FIG. 29- Rear Axle Spreader
PART 21-1- SPECIAl TOOLS
t
21-9
Limited Slip Rear Axle
Torque Check TooiT65K-4204-A.
FIG. 30- Limited Slip Rear Axle Torque Check Tool- T65K-4204-A
4209 B
• FIG. 31 -Pinion Setting Gauge
t
Pinion Setting Gauge (All Models)
21-10
GROUP
21- SPECIAL TOOLS
1
2
t
4221 A-8
t
I Replacer-Differpntial Bearing Cone (All Models) 4621-B 2 Replacer-Pinion Bearing Cone (All Models)
FIG. 32- 1. Replacer Differential Bearing Cone 2. Pinion Bearing Cone
-4221 AR
t
Remover Pilot Differential Bearing Cone
FIG. 33- Remover Pilot Differential Bearing Cone
• 4615 HF
Replacer-Pinion Cup
FIG. 34- Replacer- Pinion Bearing Front Cup
Bearing Front
21-11
PART 21-1- SPECIAL TOOLS
• 4625-H R Replacer-Pinion Cup
Bea ring
Rear
FIG. 35- Replacer- Pinion Bearing Rear Cup
• 4676 G Replacer-Pinion Models)
Oil Seal
(All
FIG. 36- Replacer- Pinion Oil Seal
t Gauge Tool Traction Lock DifferentiaiT68P-4946-A.
t FIG. 37- Gauge Tool Traction Lock Differential- T68P-4946-A
MANDATORY TOOLS Front Suspension
t
&
Steering
Port No. 53100 Front Spring Remover & Replacer off T63 P-53 I0-A 1-Screw
00
T63P-5310-A2-Nut T63P-5310-A3-P1ote T63P-5310-A -Piote
00
Thurst Beoring to Suit
oo oo
FIG. 38- Front Spring Remover & Replacer
21-12
GROUP 21-SPECIAL TOOLS f
5781-A Remover Md Replt~cer, Front Bushinq Rellr Spring (All Models) I off T64N-5781-A4-Tube
&!)
lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll llllli ll
TMN-5781-A 1-Remover & Replt~cer TMK-5781-82-Spt~cer _ TMK-5781-B 1-Bolt T64K-5 78.1-83-Nut
)
TMK-5781-84-Wt~shers
FIG. 39- Remover & Replacer, Front Bushing Rear Spring
f
M470
Oil
Ct~rtridge
Remover
FIG. 40- Oil Cartridge Remover
ENGINE
* 6000 AE Brt~cket
Engine Lifting (6 Cyi.J 111\\\1\\11111
FIG. 41 -Bracket Engine Lifting
*t T70P-6011-A
Camshaft Bearing Bore Plug Installer 8 cyl.
*t FIG. 42- T70P-6011-A *t Camshaft Bearing Bore Plug Installer - 8-cyl.
21-13
PART 21-1-SPECIAL TOOLS
6019
f
Pilot Cylinder Block Front Cover
FIG. 43- Pilot Cylinder Block Front Cover
*t T70P-6049-A
Valve Spring Compressor 8 cyl.
*t FIG. 44- T70P-6049-A Valve Spring Compressor - 8-cyl.
, ~
\
:
'
•
I
~
I
'1 l
J
* t T70P-68070-A Front Cover Seal Installer 8 cyl.
*t FIG. 45- T70P-6B070-A Front Cover Seal Installer- 8-cyl.
* t T70P-6B070-B Front Cover Seal Remover.
*t FIG. 46- T70P-6B070-B Front Cover Seal Remover - 8-cyl.
Reamer -
Valve Guide.
Reomer Kit Oversize Valve Guides (0.003"-0.015"-0.030") t 6085 B All engines.
eo•
Cl FIG. 47- Reamer- Valve Guide
21-14
..
,.
:,.i
GROUP 21- SPECIAL TOOLS
....
~~.,..,.. •...,,--.,;.!"cr.<'
•>'::""""
~
. . '"·
__ .,. . _...,,.
..,
'
*t T68P-6135-A. Remover Replacer Piston Pin. All engines.
FIG. 48 - T68P-6135-A Remover-Replacer Piston Pin All Engines
• 6261
c
Remover & Replocer Comshoft Beorings
FIG. 49- Remover & Replacer Camshaft Bearings
•
• 6261 AD Remover & Replacer-Adoptors Camshaft Bearing (8 Cyl.)
FIG. 50- Remover & Replacer Adaptor Camshaft Bearing
t
Replacer Camshaft Rear Bearing Plug T62F-6266-A.
t FIG. 51 - Replacer Camshaft Rear Bearing Plug- T62F-6266-A
PART 21-1- SPECIAL TOOLS
21-15
*t 6306-AG. Remover- Crankshaft Pulley. All engines.
*t FIG. 52- 6306-AG Remover- Crankshaft Pulley- All Engines
* 6500 E Hydraulic Tappet Tester. Use oil 6500 Det 2.
FIG. 53- Hydraulic Tappet Tester * t T?OP-6505-A. Valve Stem Deburring Button.
*t FIG. 54- T70P-6505-A Valve Stem Deburring Button
*
6513 AG Hydroulic Volve Lifter Down Tool (b Cyl.)
Bleed
FIG. 55- Hydraulic Valve Lifter Bleed Down Tool
* 6513 H Volve Spring Compressor (6 Cyl.)
FIG. 56- Valve Spring Compressor
21-16
GROUP 21- SPECIAL TOOLS
* t T70P-6K517-A. Water Pump Installer.
Bypass
Plate
*t FIG. 57- T70P-6K517-A Water Pump Bypass Plate Installer
*t T70P-6564-A Tappet Bleed Down Wrench 8 cyl.
*t FIG. 58- T70P-6564-A Tappet Bleed Down Wrench- 8-cyl .
• 6700
c
Remover and Replacer Crankshaft Front Oil Seal (6 Cyl.)
FIG. 59- Remover & Replacer Crankshaft Front Oil Seal
Replacer Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal. T?OPG-6701-B 6 Cyl. 670 1-E 8 Cyl.
FIG. 60- Replacer Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal
21-17
PART 21-1- SPECIAL TOOLS
I
MANUAL TRANSMISSION t * 7000 AF 6 CYL. t T57P-7697-A 8 CYL.
• •
-~-
I
Remover Extension Housing Bush. Use with Slide Hammer 982019
FIG. 61 -Remover- Extension Housing Bush
I
(
7111
c
Ret11iner-Ciuster Ge11r Be11rings (All Models)
FIG. 62- Retainer Cluster Gear Roller Bearings
t FIG. 63- Gear Shift Linkage Grommet Pliers- 7341-C
-·-
_ _ ,_ .... .
I
. Twin Disc Clutch Aligning Pilot- 7550-A. '
t FIG. 64- Twin Disc Clutch Aligning Pilot- 7550-A
t * t
7657-G 6 CYL'. T61L-7657-A 8 CYL.
Replacer Extension Bush & Seal
Housing
FIG. 65- Replacer- Extension Housing Bush & Seal
Roller
GROUP 21- SPECIAL TOOLS
21-18
t *
t
7657-G-27 6 CYL. T61L-7657-Al 8 CYL.
Adaptor-Replacer Housing Bush
Extension
FIG. 66- Adaptor- Replacer Extension Housing Bush
t
77047-Bl Input Shaft Oil Seal
Replacer VB 3SPD
77~7-B
f
Replacer-Input Shaft Oil Seal
FIG. 67- Replacer-Input Shaft Oil Seal
21-19
PART 21-1-SPECIAL TOOLS
.
..-
I
I
I
I
'
FIG. 68- Remover & Replacer Adaptors C4 Auto Trans Bushings- T66L-7003-B
-
N
"T1
I
G')
~
~
C)
.,"'
0
c:
N
I
(/)
"U
m
n
7
I)> r-
~
0 0r-
(/)
5 Replacer- Front Pump Oil Seal - T63L-77837-A 6 Replacer- Transmission Extension Housing Oil Seal Assembly - T61L-7657-A 7 Automatic Transmission Clutch Spring Compressor- T65L-77515-A 8 Replacer- Transmission Extension Housing Bushing - AT-7697-B
21-21
PART 21-1- SPECIAL TOOLS
1- 5/16" Socket 3/8" Drive Socket- Clutch Race to Case Bolb 2 - AF2-440S-TV Crowfoot Wrench, Vacuum Control Unit
3
3- W & B Tension Wrench, Model 32008
FIG. 70
Rear Band Adjuster. * J2 11 11.
FIG. 71 -Rear Band Adjuster
* BW 35 Bench Cradle Adaptor (All Models)
FIG. 72- Bench Cradle Adaptor
21-22
GROUP 21-SPECIAL TOOLS
• BW 37 A Clutch Spring Compressor (All Models)
FIG. 73- Clutch Spring Compressor
t • BW 38 Hydraul ic Pressure Test Gauge Kit (All Models)
FIG. 74- Hydraulic Pressure Test Gauge Kit
• BW 38 Z FIG. 75- Banjo Adaptor Detail1
Banjo Adaptor (All Models)
* Banjo Ada ptor Detail 2.
FIG. 76- Banjo Adaptor Detail 2
21-23
GROUP 21-SPECIAL TOOLS
* BW 41 Rear Clutch Piston Replacer
FIG. 77- Rear Clutch Piston Replacer
*
BW 42
Front Clutch Piston Replacer
FIG. 78- Front Clutch Piston Replacer
*
BW 548-1
Torque Screw Driver Adaptor
FIG. 79- Torque Screw Driver Adaptor
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION * BW -548 -2
Front Servo Adaptor
FIG. 80- Front Servo Adaptor Typical
21-24
GROUP 21- SPECIAL TOOLS
. -
'.C!!_ __
~ -
-~~~~ --~
~
* t T?O PG-8530-A . Remove r, Rep la ce r - Water Pump Shaft & Bea ring . 6 Cy l.
*t FIG. 81 - T70PG -8530-A Remover-Replacer"Water Pump Shaft & Bearing, 6 Cyl.
T?OPG-8564-A.
Installer Water Pump Seal. 6 Cyl.
* t FIG. 82- T70PG -8564-A Installer - Water Pump Seal, 6 Cyl.
8620 B
Drive Belt Tens ion Gauge
FIG. 83- Drive Belt Tension Gauge
21-25
PART 21- J- SPECIAL TOOLS
1
Carburettor Tools. {6 Cyl.) I 9533.A Jet Wrench 2 9550-A Float Arm Setting Tool 3 9A516-A Discharge Jet Remover
3
FIG. 84- Carburettor Tools
• AGI6 Vacuum Gloss lifte,
FIG. 85- Vacuum Glass lifter
• TM-F-<42006 Windshield Upper Moulding Remover
FIG. 86- Windshield Upper Moulding Remover
21-26
GROUP 21- SPECIAL TOOLS
BODY • SP 1832-12 Windshield Coulking Gun (All Models)
FIG. 87- Windshield Caulking Gun
GROUP 21- SPECIAl TOOlS
21 - 2 7
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL INDEX Description
Tool No.
Ill ustration Fig . No.
WHEELS Replacer Rear Wheel Bearing Oil Seal 1177C Axle Shaft Bearing Remover & Replacer AGF - 1225-A Rear Axle Shaft Bearing Remover & Replacer Adaptor AGF-1225-A-1 Tapered Axle Bearing Remover XYTC-1225-A BRAKE SYSTEM Brake Cyl1nder Clamp Star Nut Brake Tool Return Spring Tool Disc Brake Rotor Gauge
M818 M402 M802 R1102-A
2 3 4 5 5 5 6
POWER STEERING SY ST EM Power Steering Pump Pulley Repla cer Power Steering Pump Pulley Remover Power Steering Pump Pressure Gauge Remover Input Shaft Sea l and Spacer Extractor Worm Race Fitting Too l Tube Seat Wedge Sleeve Coupling Contractor Piston Ring Contractor Sleeve Rings Ring Spanne r Replacer Input Shaft Bearing and Sector Shaft Seal Replacer Input Shaft Bearing and Seal Sector Shaft Bearing ToQJ Spacer Washer Sector Shaft Bearing Tool Sector ·Shaft Bearing Tool Sector Shaft Bearing Tool Guide Mounting Bracket Expander Sleeve Seals Gauge for Bearing Spacer Fitting Too l Outlet Tube
Description
Tool No.
Replacer-Pinion Bearing Cone Remover-Pilot Differential Bearing Cone Replacer-Pinion Bearing Front Cup Replacer-Pinion Bearing Rear Cup Replacer Pinion Oil Seal Gauge Tool Traction Lock Differential
Ill us t ration Fig . No.
4621-B
32
4221 -AR
33
4615-HF
34
4625-HR' 4676-G
35 36
T68P-4946-A
37
5310-D
38
5781-A
39
M470 6000AE
40 41
T70P-6011-A 6019
42 43
T70P-6049-A
44
T70P-6B070-A
45
T70P-6B070-B
46
6085-B Reamer Valve Guide All Engines Piston Pin Remover & Replacer All Engines T68P-6135-A Remover & Replacer Camshaft 6261-C Bearing _ Remover & Replacer Adaptor 6261-AD Camshaft Bearing Replacer Camshaft Rear T62F-6266-A Bearing Plug Crankshaft Pulley Remover 6306-AG All Engines Hydraulic Tappet Tester 6500-E Valve Stem Deburring Button T70P-6505-A
47
SPRING SYST EM Front Spring Remover & Replacer Remover & Replacer Front Bushing Rear Spring
ENG tNE SYSTEM T65P-3A733-A
7
T65L - 10300-B
8
T65L-33610-D
9
XA-3526-A XA-3521-B XA-374309-A XA-3771-A XA-3544-A XA-3589-B XA-3707-A
10 11 12 13 14 15 16
XA-3525-A/1
17
XA-3525-A
18
XA-3576-A l
19
XA-3576-A3 XA-3576-A
20 21
XA-3576-A2 XA-10064-A XA-3589-A XA-3775-A XA -3713-A
22 23 24 25 26
Oil Cartridge Remover Bracket Engine Lifting 6-cyl. Camshaft Bearing Bore Plug Insta ller 8-cyl. Pilot Cylinder Block Front Cover Valve Spring Compressor 8-cyl.
Front Cover Aligner & Seal Insta ller 8-cy I. Front Cover Seal Remover 8-cyl.
48 49 50 51 52 53 54
SUSPENSION SYSTEM Suspension Alignment Spacers Ball Joint Tool Remover Press Adaptor Ba ll Jo1nt Press
T65P3000-B ACX3006 ACX3006-D
27 28 28
REAR AXLE SYSTEM Rear Axle Spreader Adaptor Plates L1mited Slip Rear Axle Torque Check Tool Pin1on Setting Gauge Replacer-Differentia l Bearing Cones
4010-A 401 0-A - 1 & 2
29 29
T65K - 4204 -A 4209 -B
30 31
4221-A&B
32
Hydraulic Valve Lifter Bleed Down Tool 6-cyl. 6513-AG Valve Spring Compressor 6-cyl. 6513-H Water Pump By-pass Plate T70P-6K517-A Installer
55 56 57
Tappet Bleed Down Wrench 8-cyl. Remover & Replacer Crankshaft Front Oil Seal
6700-C
59
Replacer Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal 6-cyl.
T70PG-6701-B
60
58
21-28
GROUP 21- SPECIAL TOOLS SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL INDEX
Description
Tool No.
Ill ustration Fig. No.
TRANSMISSION SYSTEM Remover Extension Housing Bush 6-cyl. 7000AF Remover Extension Housing Bush 8-cyl. T57P-7697-A Retainer Cluster Gear Roller Bearings 7111-C Gear Shift Linkage Grommet Pliers 7341-C Twin Disc Clutch Aligning Pilot 351 C.I.D . 7550-A Replacer Extension Housing Bush & Seal 6-cyl. 7657-G Replacer Extension Housing T61 L- 7657-A Bush & Seal 8-cyl. Adaptor-Replacer Extension 7657-G-27 Housing Bush 6-cyl. Adaptor-Replacer Extension T61 L-7657-A1 Housing Bush 8-cyl. Replacer-Trans. Input Shaft 77047 - B Oil Seal 3SPD 6-cyl. Replacer-Trans. Input Shaft 77047-B1 Oil Seal 3SPD 8-cyl. Remover & Replacer Adaptors T66L-7003-B C4 Auto. Trans. Bushing Replacer-Front Pump Oil Seal T63L-77837 -A C4 Auto. Trans. Replacer-Extension Housing T61 L-7657-A Oil Seal C4 Auto. Trans. Clutch Spring Compressor T65L-77515-A C4 Auto. Trans. Replacer-Transmission Extension AT-7697-B Housing Bush C4 Auto. Trans.
61 61 62 63 64 65 65
Description
Ill ustration Fig. No.
Tool No.
Socket Clutch Race to Case Bolts fe-AF Crowfoot Wrench. Vacuum AF2 -4405-TV Control Unit 3200-B W & B Tension Wrench Rear Band Adjuster Wrench J21111 Bench Cradle Adaptor BW35 BW37A Clutch Spring Compressor BW38 Hydraulic Pressure Test Gauge Kit Banjo Adaptor. Detail 1 } BW38-Z Banjo Adaptor. Detail 2 BW-41 Replacer-Rear Clutch Piston BW-42 Replacer-Front Clutch Piston BWA-548-1 Torque Screw Driver Adaptor BW-548-2-A Front Servo Adaptor Typical
{
70 70 70 . 71
72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80
COOLING SYSTEM
66 66
67
Water Pump Shaft & Bearing Remover-Replacer 6-cyl. Installer-Water Pump Seal 6-cyl. Drive Belt Tension Gauge
68
FUEL SYSTEM
69
Jet Wrench Float Arm Setting Tool Discharge Jet Remover Vacuum Glass Lifter Windshield Upper Moulding Remover Windshield Caulking Gun
67
69 69 69
T70PG-8530-A
81
T70PG-8564-A 8620-B
82 83
9533-A 9550-A 9A516-A AG.16
84 84 84 85
T64F-42006 SP1832-12
86 87
REFERENCE TO SERVICE INFORMATION AND NOTIES Date
Letter No.
Pa1e
Brief Detail
REFERENCE TO SERVICE INFORMATION AND NOTES Date
Letter No.
Page
Brief Detail
FALCON FAIRLANE w~:~~~~P
SCHEMATICS
GROUP 22
PAGE
PART 22-1-
Schematics
22-2
~ N
·t~l
I•
!=QOI'./T SN I TCH {tNSTRVI\AENT PAIVEt_.)
+
B4TTERY
I .......
I
I
..
I rTt-.., :5?1=
J~9s
197
"c,.,.,
r=1
I
..
I
I
G-4
7
0
CtQCI!I/T I!JQEAKEQ
t?O
..:IO \
I
K~Y
C>PERATEC SIN lTC~ (TAIL.GATE)
\
REL-AY'
1
ol
.,.
1
'"""4
g .402
~
76.3C
I s'::.F I
1
I
r
I
I LIMIT
lr I~
I•
T
40/
SYVITCI-I.
-.--C>tQECTtC>IV OF=" CVQQENT I="ROAA 1\AAIN L 8,:""""l ,...A
FIG. 1 - Electric Tailgate Window
2 ~
C?
I ., I $5
~
..
I
D MOTOR
·II ~TTERy
:
..;
-.:.
I~J RIGJI-iT
-=-~
I
~
I
.SNrrci--1
00012
(Mf'>C)OW MOTOQ)
CIQC.UIT BQ~AIC~Q
573
A..
1"70
.:$74
.S/6
_.,,~
;AC OUT 1/T'C...
REL..AY
~
Q l c;....,-.-
QE'AQ
I 317 IW. #-1.
ON.
oc
Q
:Ia
VP
-t
I"QONT
OOOQ
~
-
.,.
I
I
~ .H.
-QONT C>cx::>R
.,._,c
2
-=><::> 00
~
(!T?JI= R.l-l. Q~.AQ
OOOQ
)>
1/y\
'-·'""'
~" L... -:->"·'.o AA""'"" .......,
l:ti.AQ OOOQ
$7.-4J
ON.
VP
ON.
,;0
Q
r
;~
=""'
OC>C>Q
I 31., 414
573
-t
UP
:57.3
~
~7'41
I
31.9
0
--
571"
I SWITCH
S N I T CH
_I FIG. 2- Electric Door Windows
N NI UJ
GROUP 22- SCHEMATICS
22-4
r-----~7€-----+--~
------5?€-----+~• r----~ -----f-llr-----
5
F
FIG. 3- Printed Circuit G.T. Falcon and Rallye Pack Only
PART 22-1- SCHEMATICS
HI-
L .H .
SEAM 77.../RN IND.
.39
FIG. 4- Printed Circuit Fairlane Only
22-5
22-6
GROUP 22-SCHEMATICS
WIRING COLOUR CODE
39
2 3 5 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15
WHITE- BLUE LT. GREEN- WHITE GREEN- BLUE GREEN GREEN - YELLOW GREEN- RED HASH YELLOW- GREEN STRIPE GREEN- BLACK RED - BLACK BROWN RED- YELLOW
44 GREEN- BLACK
RED- WHITE
53 BLACK- BLUE 54 RED- BLUE 55 YELLOW- BLUE 56 BLUE- YELLOW 57 BLACK 58 WHITE 63 RED 140 BLACK- RED 234 BLUE
16 17 18 19 21 25 26 29 32 35 37
RED-LT. GREEN WHITE YELLOW- RED BLUE- BLACK BLUE - BLACK BLACK- RED YELLOW YELLOW- WHITE RED - BLUE BROWN- YELLOW BLACK - YELLOW
262 450 482 643 648 763A 904 977 7638 763C 763
BROWN- RED YELLOW- BLACK BLUE- RED BLACK- YELLOW WHITE- GREEN BROWN- WHITE GREEN- RED PURPLE- WHITE BROWN- WHITE ORANGE- WHITE ORANGE- WHITE
+ ~~
A5!!1Etvt8J- 16"5
AQCJ.;ilCF • I 4 ..01• .......
t::0-1
J-~E.ADL..A"--P
F'"A lk'L ;ONE ONL Y. .ARCJ::/CJJF 130~ A A L. ~
~RI-
ENGINE CO/vf~TMENT IS ? IJ
~
'.:>----
/~ -
,_,..._
, ..0 - - 1 4§/J -
// A - - - -
/--
"•a--
"" ....
CONNe.
L . 1'-f. CW:::U VII'¥G
~ ,.,.,...,p
....._COl'-./ 01'-/L..Y
L . J>.(.
~CII-AA.4P
~ tlf!IL....,.._·f!
OtNL..Y
l'•
~---
~
PONE!'< >WNC>C>V
[
l~iJ:1~~~~ ~-~-----~--~ COf.....IQT~SY L. ... A.AP 511VITCI-f
·-
CL-OCK l!:ii.PCJ , c;»...L.Y
Q
rftlJ ~ DIP SI'VITCI-I.
l
-~7
~II(E~_. IUJ/;-.
"~
. ,..
L..;
..
~ hV
.--•77..i'..'....
COAJ~r011
~ ~~~:!
\
r-<>d .,.---
,.
3TA.Q 7' AA OTC R/EL.A'J
15 r
~
CJI'/L V
\
'
~~:~~~JkS F;IS ..,......,._·-.-_,, rN-C~
3PLIC~
S70
--=~..:.?_-___
rt:t .c:;. . . 18 ~Wc "~::<-/: >-4-r r~
10
i~~~~~~~m~~
rAe
eu••e.,...,oiOJ
-11!1/J - -
~ >
~
~IV~
ro
-.-L_
1__:]---
~
~ ~"
"""""IN 4-C>C>/\.J CON,...,.C7"'0Q .51~
-1-=>ooo---+
.
:. 111
m,.,
c1
.oi!U10•,.
,... ---4-...,.
-
L-7,.~
II ~~..;;:._,-,. ll
' "'"""'
J
~
~ ~~c•oo.
OQ
~0~/vfANI..J""L
QA~"'
TR.AN.SMI ..SSI ON
JJ. 'f
..
~I" CI~Q
SI-ICAT N I RES
7548
~
'Z::.:~NG 3#'VITC"""'
.,I'TCJ-1.
.Q.PO. ONLY -
7'r
1''-E
'--------,
,_.,~AT"~i;
~
"""'OrOQ;
~~D._ov"so~ 1
,Q.P.~~~Q -~~~Lrl=
<>
II
C>-
lf'C
7,c;;,~ "-.A.~HI'EIW
TUIQN
t--SA
~--L_/'
---
~
/Nkt S!TOR CON~"T~Q
[l
NAS~-EQ · W/PeQ
·u···~· B-~------------------------------
L__
4-1-1. CIC)L.AQT.SY LA,..,_ $1t'V/TC,tJ..~
R
...C. -,!'YO . .N'P"""tf:::I•J/111 """'':>f'""'-:::t..L.Ct ~
·~ .4.S.ii1.L.b"''a:> tJ?"'T"'PI-,~~
;..,.-,NO .;i1N~~e.c::::a.t
A. .. l.ifr!!l ...~..-,~
..L...s'
IV"".;1 / 4f..J.,r"l 67~ · S.Or1'1·.6!1'CU!:OeJ"' NO~"""" N"'C7~
911 ·
&:e>~' ·~ea..,
& ....· ,CIIie),..../•610~
r---J
~~II•
,..,
f - ~.#.LoP-
-<~~
bOIO~I .......
'----
""-
lfi-..
I 1l
1!11:'-
:A...,NO Oet'ZF O;J••
Lf4J.,..,. ~j:=f!~
......:u=---oo
OO..L~
""'"'
CINMIJII/tll _.._,
...,,..,.L
tvetn.L
' '"'. J. ...O.J..,.
.,
.~·
~
.,
.-v~ t w:::r IVC>~_,.,.., ..J. fD
A..,..,O
f'
ec:w
~
.... .,.~011"'10~ ~...,-
·='·
lj
