Flower Horn Fish is basically from the Cichlid family, which is classified under the genus of Cichlasoma, which is commonly found in South America. This beautif ul hybrid is thought to be the end product of cross breeding between the Cichlas oma Trimaculatus, Cichlasoma Festae, Jingang Blood Parrot. To date, many of the better quality Flower Horn have been produced due to the intensified eagerness o f breeders to produce the best show quality fish for the market. As stated in some reports, the Flower Horn Fish is also known as a "mutated" bre ed of fish. Rest assured that this is just a claim. Flower Horn Fish have gone t hrough intense selective cross breeding in order to have the best characteristic s of the respective strains of the Cichlid Fish family. For instance, most breed ers are striving to produce Flower Horn with a bigger nuchal hump on the forehea d, better coloration, bolder black marking on the body (which at times resembles Chinese characters), more elegant fins, and wider body. No chemicals, or bio-ge netic engineering have been incorporated to improve on the traits / characterist ics of the Flower Horn. Thus, the claim that this is a mutated fish is unfounded . In addition, this fish is very hardy, and can endure water conditions that are n ot suitable for most breeds of aquarium fish. This is also part of the reason wh y the Flower Horn is well received by many tropical fish hobbyists. But the idea l pH level in the water required, should be around pH 7 to pH 7.8 with water tem perature ranging between 27 to 32C. For temperate / colder climate regions, they just need a water heater. The Flower Horn is from the South American Cichlid family, and this fish is very territorial. They are also very aggressive in nature. Co-existing with other fi sh is not advisable, especially smaller fish. Some parties have claimed that we can "play" with the Flower Horn. In actual fact, Flower Horn is actually trying to get rid of the "intruder" (be it a stick or a person's hand). Therefore, it i s advisable that we keep our hands to ourselves as the fish has quite a nasty bi te depending on the size of the fish. Here are some varieties of Flower Horn Zhen Zhu = RD and BD JK = Golden FH Kamfas = Synsphillium or Parrot x ZZ ZZ = Zhen Zhu RD = Red Dragon POTO = Pearl of the Orient RC = Red Crystal RG = Red General SDK = Super Dragon King RPD = Red Pearl Dragon TB = Tunder Bolt SP = Super Pendian
RD = Rainbow Dragon FD = Fiery Dragon BD = Blue Dragon BCD = Blue Comet Dragon DBD = Diamond Blue Dragon BFD = Blue Face Dragon KB = King Baccara EM = Eastern Maiden OGD = Oriental Green Dragon GFF = Golden Fire Face KAMFA SRS = Super Red Shock RM = Red Monkey RS = Red Shock JH = Jin Hua RK = Red Kamfa OK = Orange Kamfa OP = Oriental Phoenix RP = Red Phoenix RBK = Rainbow King HBK = Hell Boy Kamfa = Eastern Maiden X KKP Buffalo = KKP+ RD = Kamfa bred by 65rivi PARROT BP = Blood Parrot KKP = King Kong Parrot Mammon = High Quality King Kong Parrot (Happy Breed Farm) Darmo = High Quality King Kong Parrot (Rarefish) DD2 = Desert Dynasty II CGY = Colorful God of the Year GD = Golden Dragon
JPG = Jing Ping Guo JG = Jaded Griffin KDC = Kimdingchu Golden Monkey ALSO called KAMALAU Kamalau is a Cantonese term which is the same as GM. In Malaysia, Singapore & In donesia, this term is commonly use among hobbyists. GM = Golden Monkey KGM = King of Golden Monkey MGM = Marine Golden Monkey MK = Metallic Kamalau BKM = Blue King Monkey DM = Diamond Monkey KGM1 = King of Golden Monkey Generation 1 KGM2 = King of Golden Monkey Generation 2 KGMF = King of Golden Monkey Flowerness SML = SonMalau = New Generation GM Diff b/w kamfa and ZZ 1.KAMFA
2.ZZ(Zhen Zou) Sexing of FH. #Age and length 2 months (1mm - 30mm) . #Characteristic 1. Juvenile stage. 2. Colors and body patterns are not noticeable. #Sexing Method
No known method. Observations shows larger sized fish within the same batch tend to be males. #Age and length 2 - 5 months ( 30 mm - 150 mm) Characteristic Colors and body patterns are becoming more distinctive #Sexing Method 1. Distinctive black marking on the dorsal fin indicates that it is a female. Ho wever, this is not foolproof. The same pattern does exist on some male Flowerhor ns. 2. Observations on the shape of the genital papillae. V-shaped papilla indicates a male fish, while a U-shaped papilla indicates a female fish. Gently squeezing the abdominal region may reveal the papillae. 3. Male Flowerhorns will have broader body with higher dorsal, anal and caudal f ins. It is also observed that male Flowerhorns will have thicker jawline and mor e distinctive body color. #Age and length 5 months and above (150 mm - 600 mm) #Characteristic Flowerhorns begin to mature. Distinctive and rather prominent head humps are vis ible on the male fish. #Sexing Method Female will start to lay eggs even without the presence of a male. Some more characteristics to be observed. #1 dorsal black spot: flowerhorns are hybrids,therefore this method will not be 100%accurate.this meth od is usally use on pure bred cichlid however the rest of the method we are going to talk about here will not apply to fries under 3 in therefore this one is included. 90%of fry with out dorsal spots,will be males. 60% of fry with dorsal spot will be females. #2 body structure. male flowerhorn often have more angular and muscular lines ,while females often have a rounder,smoother body line. #3 Dorsal spine method. look at the first 6 dorsal spines of your fh, males often have rounded and thick spines, while females have a more flatened and thiner look to the first 6 dorsa l spines.
#4 pelvic fin and pelvic spine method. female flowerhorn need to use their pelvic fin as a fan to fan the eggs while br eeding,therefore when you touch the pelvic fin and pelvic spine of your fh,if it is soft,and the spine is not as hard that will make you bleed,your fish is high ly possible to be a female. #5 chest line(chin line) method. if you view your fish from the side,behind the gill jucture and before the pelvi c fin,right under the petoral fin,this is the chest of your fish,if your fish ha ve a bulkier chest,the it is more possible to be male,females often have a small er,and smoother chest(unlike human)...lol #6 anal venting method. hold your fish upsidedown,look at the anal vent,males have a V shape and females have a U shape. now look from the side,males should have their tube pointed toward the back ,whi le females have straight tubes Male organism Female Organism
Source of Sexing of fh : FLOWERHORNUSA,AROFANATICS Common Flowerhorn Diseases and Treatment Caring for your Flower Horn is not just about feeding it, it's also about watchi ng for potentially serious health conditions. Below are some of the problems you r Flower horn might experience. White Spot Disease Cause and Symptoms * The cause of this condition is Ichthyophithirius multifilis (ICH ) , a ciliate d protozoan . * Bad water quality can increase the likelihood that your fish will be victim to this parasite. * Low water temperatures (< 25°C) are ideal breeding grounds for ICH. * The most common way Flower horns get ICH is when they are fed live or frozen f ood that has already been contaminated with the parasite. * The most prominent symptom of this condition are the pure white spots that wil l appear all over your fish. You may also notice the fins are clumped together, and they act a bit more lethargic than usual. Moreover, it's common for them to lose interest in food when ICH infects. Treatment The parasites resides under the skin of the fish, hence it is not affected by wa ter treatment or direct treatment applied to the fish . Break the breeding cycle of Ich by washing the tank thoroughly to remove the cysts of the parasite. Keep in mind that this is a highly contagious condition, so your entire aquarium mus t be treated.
To cure white spots: * * * . *
Place Kordon Ich inhibitor in your tank. Add aquarium salt at 3g/l of water every 3 days together with the medication. After 3rd day, tank must be washed thoroughly to eliminate the causative agent Add Kordon Malachite Green treatment to your tank.
Preventive measures: * Add Kordon Prevent Ich Fish Disease Inhibitor and Preventative to your tank. * Quarantine new fish for three to four weeks. * Avoid cross-tank contamination. Hole-In-The-Head Disease Cause and Symptoms * The cause of this condition is Hexamita Protozoa , parasitic organisms that ar e highly contagious. * These parasites thrive with poor water quality management. * If your fish has this condition, you will notice the appearance of small pits and pimples mainly on the fish's head. These pits will simply grow and form bigg er pits. * The pits are white in color, and sometimes mucous are visible around them. * In addition to losing weight, becoming lethargic, and losing their appetites, the fish will produce white, stringy feces. Treatment * Add Dimetrydazole (5mg/l) or Metronidazole (7mg/l). * Repeat treatment once every 3 days. * Do a 20%-30% water change. * It is sometimes necessary to inject Metronidazole, but injections near the aff ected area should be attempt only by qualified personnel. Preventive measures : * Change your water regularly. * Quarantine new fish for three to four weeks. * Avoid cross-tank contamination. Mouth, body and tail fungus Causes & Symptoms * This condition is caused by Saproglenia and other related bacteria. * Bad water quality only causes these kinds of bacteria to thrive. * Sudden changes in the water condition can also cause this condition in your fi sh. * If your fish has this condition, you will notice cotton like tufts at the mout h, body, fin and tail. * You may also notice your fish losing weight. Treatment * Add Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Aquarium Salt to your tank. * Adding Jungle Labs Fungus Eliminator will also help. * Be sure to treat the whole tank, but quarantine the most seriously ill fish.
Preventive measures : * Change your water regularly. * Quarantine new fish for three to four weeks. * Avoid cross-tank contamination. Dropsy Causes & Symptoms * This condition is caused by a bacterial infection. * Poor water quality, overcrowding, and stress can make your fish more susceptib le to this condition. * If your fish is affected, he may appear bloated and stop eating Treatment · Do not add aquarium salt to your tank. · Use a commercially prepared treatment available at your local pet shop. Preventive measures : * Change your water regularly. * Quarantine new fish for three to four weeks to avoid the introduction of new, dangerous bacteria. * Avoid cross-tank contamination. Fin & Tail Rot Disease Causes & Symptoms * * * . * *
This condition is caused by Pseudomonas and other related bacteria. Poor water quality causes these bacteria to thrive in your tank. If your fish is affected, the fin and tail appeared eaten away and white edged You may even notice the fin or tail beginning to literally dissolve. The color of the fish may dull, and the fins may clump together. This bacteria is highly contagious.
Treatment * Treat the whole tank, but quarantine and treat the heavily infected fish. * Tetracycline should be added. Preventive measures : * Change your water regularly. * Quarantine new fish for three to four weeks. * Avoid cross-tank contamination. Air Bladder Disease Causes & Symptoms * This condition is caused by a number of things, but the most likely problems a re a virus or a bacterial infection. * If your fish has this condition, you may notice they have trouble swimming cor rectly, or they tend to swim upside down. Treatment
* Because it can be hard to determine the cause of this problem, it can also be difficult to treat it, but in general, an antibiotic agent should take care of t he problem. Preventive measures : * Change your water regularly. * Quarantine new fish for three to four weeks. * Avoid cross-tank contamination. Velvet Disease Causes & Symptoms * This condition is caused by a fungus living in your tank. * Poor water quality causes this fungus to thrive in your tank. * If your fish is affected, he may stop swimming, and he may begin to look ill. Treatment · Add Copper Sulfate (Blue Crystal) to your tank. Be sure to use the ratio of 1 g Copper Sulfate and 0.25g Citric Acid to 1 litre of distilled water. Dosage instr uctions: 12.5 ml to 10 litres of aquarium water for 10 days. Administer half of this on days three, five and seven. Preventive measures : * Change your water regularly. * Quarantine new fish for three to four weeks. * Avoid cross-tank contamination. Ammonia and the Nitrogen Cycle With some fish, high ammonia levels are a horrible problem. It is astonishing, t hough, that Flowerhorn fish have good tolerance towards high ammonia levels in a water system. However, in order to optimize your Flowerhorn's potentials and be auty, good water quality management is essential. The nitrogen cycle is a big pa rt of water quality management, and understanding it will truly help increase th e success level of your tank. All organisms excrete ammonia as waste. Proper waste management is crucial in or der to maintain a healthy living environment. In aquatic environments, aquatic o rganisms excrete ammonia into their own living system. The nitrogen cycle takes place throughout a mature system in a man-made tank. In this environment, nitrog en products are recycled by different colonies of beneficial bacteria into diffe rent forms. The highly toxic forms of these nitrogen products are ammonia and ni trite. In a matured fish tank system with a well circulating nitrogen cycle, many other toxins, mainly ammonia, are converted into harmless nitrate, nitrous oxide and nitrogen gas. This cycle will make sure that the nitrogen level in the water is in check, hence, maintaining it below the toxic level in your fish tank. Normally, in a newly set up tank, the nitrogen cycle may not yet be mature, whic h means it may not be a complete one. There will be a surge of ammonia and nitri te in the water system (New Tank Syndrome) mainly due to amount of food the fish are fed and the wastes that are produced. This may cause your Flowerhorn to die if the ammonia level in the tank reaches the toxicity point. This is commonly k
nown as ammonia poisoning. For a new tank, frequent water changes (partial wayer changes) are advisable even if there is a proper bio filtration system in your new tank. It normally takes about 1-2 month's time for the cycle to stabilize, t hen less frequent water changes are necessary. While the surge of ammonia in your tank is a problem for your fish, it will enco urage the growth of nitrifying bacteria, Nitrosomonas sp., to process the ammoni a into less toxic nitrite. The resulting surge in nitrite will encourage yet ano ther group of nitrifying bacteria, Nitrobacter sp . to convert them to even less toxic nitrate. Nitrous oxide and nitrogen gas will then be produced with the he lp of other bacteria and aquatic plants. The complete nitrogen cycle will normal ly take 1-2 month's time to mature and fully stabilize. After this period, a hea lthy population of beneficial bacteria will then be able to work on harmful ammo nia and nitrite in the water system. Nevertheless, the number of fish and the am ount of food given to those fish is an important factor in contributing the amou nt of ammonia in a system. Too much food will be a problem for you fish. Moreove r, you must be moderate when it comes to the cleaning of your bio-media filters. If your system is too clean, the beneficial bacteria will be eliminated. Partia l water change and constant removal of excess food and solid waste from the filt ers are crucial to the health of your tank. Deworming Deworming is basically an preventive measure to get rid of some common worms/bac teria/pasasites. Starving the fh once in a week is good. Apart from starvation, deworming can b carried out as follows.. Metronidazole, main ingredient of Metrogyl tablet, is best fed thru food than th ru tank water. Also, under normal circumstances, fish will readily accept it thr u food. Plus, by feeding metro thru food, we r preventing the nitrogen cycle fro m being wiped out. Same with the other antibiotics like Terramycin (Ingredient- Oxytetracycline)
Metrogyl/Flagyl - for intestinal parasites/bacteria - One treatment of 3 days on ce in 3 months. Terramycin - for gram-negative bacteria and columnaris virus - One treatment of 3 days once in 3 months. Potassium Permagnate - as a 5 second bath - for most external parasites and worm s - Once in a month (BE CAREFUL!!!) Common salt - as long duration bath - as general tonic and stressbuster as half an hour bath in concentrated solution - to get rid of ich - Once in a mo nth. Epsom salt - as laxative Once in 3 months. Metrogyl treatment and Terramycin treatment is separated by at least a month. Ot her treatments can be carried out along with Metro/Terramycin treatment. Epsom s alt treatment works great with Metrogyl treatment.
Note: This deworming procedure, suggested by our fh professor cum lover-Girish B hai. Common traits of a gud Fh # Body Shape Body of the flower horn fish should be thick and oval. Some new variants being a lmost round. Stomach should be full and not tucked in. # Coloration Most flower horn fish, red is predominant from cheek to abdominal region. Howeve r, its background colors would do well to complement the red highlighs. # Black Horizontal Markings (flowerline) It will be ideal if the flower horn fish has a strong and thick black horizontal marking on its body. However, be aware that not all flower horns has this crite ria. We should look at the overall of the fish. # Head Irregardless of shape, size and coloration, a good nuchal hump is preferable. It will be ideal if the nuchal hump is proportionate to the size and shape of the fish. # Eyes Positioned on the sides of its head. Eyeballs and the eye linings should be aler t and distinct respectively. 7) Tail & Fins The tail and fins should stay erect most of the time. Source: WORLD CICHLIDS
