from om th thee Grill Sizzling Salads fr
THE BEST OF
100+
Mouthwatering Recipes Ribs, Chops, Seafood, Vegetables & More
New Ways with
Burgers
Barbecued Chicken, p. 49, and Grilled Strip Steaks with Miso-Truffle Butter, p. 28 GRILLING 2016
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contents GRILLING 2016, NO. 111 THE BEST OF
Grilling p. 28
p. 51
16 24
p. 60
appetizers beef & lamb
36
pork
46
chicken
56
seafood
68
burgers
78
vegetables
86
salads
96
desserts
Grilled Corn on the Cob with Thyme and Roasted Red Pepper Butter, p. 82
www.finecooking.com FINECOOKING.COM 3
CONTENTS
117 12 12
112
108 107
DEPARTMENTS 8 Links
106 Test Kitchen Tips, techniques, ingredients.
10
How to Fire Up the Grill Your guide to making the most of outdoor cooking.
13
Grilling Pantry Keep these items on hand to whip up delicious glazes, sauces, marinades, rubs, and more.
116 Credits 117
Sources
118 Nutrition 120
Recipe Index
122
Cookout Cocktail Welcome guests to the party with this sweet-tart drink; its deliciously refreshing qualities are sure to help everyone beat the heat.
p P 4 GRILLING 2016
Cover photography by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day. Steak courtesy of Omaha Beef.
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Your A-to-Z Guide to Grilled Steak Charred. Juicy. Tender. When you invest in a great steak, you want to be sure you get it right. Don’t miss our total A-to-Z guide from San Francisco chef Parke Ulrich at FineCooking.com/grilledsteak-guide.
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Fresh-Baked Bread, Hot off the Grill When the weather warms up, even die-hard bakers don’t often think about making bread. But flatbreads are a delicious exception, since there’s no need to crank up the oven—a few minutes on the grill and they’re hot and toasty. This collection of breads includes classics like pita and exciting twists such as herb-and-cheesestuffed naan. Find it at FineCooking.com/grilledflatbreads.
8 GRILLING 2016
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La Baleine Coarse Sea Salt. Perfect for
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grill guide TiPS • TeCHNiQueS
10
GRILLING 2016
How to Fire Up the Grill Your guide to making the most of outdoor cooking. It starts with the grill There are more grill choices on the market today than ever before. But, really, any good-quality covered charcoal grill (22 inches in diameter is best) or a threeburner gas grill will get you through the vast majority of the recipes in this issue. Gas grills are by far the most popular these days because they’re so convenient; wellbuilt ones can do just about everything charcoal grills can do, including low and slow smoking. But many gas grill owners also have a charcoal grill that they use for special recipes or just because they enjoy tending a fire.
Charcoal vs. briquettes Charcoal fires used to be all about charcoal briquettes, but hardwood lump charcoal has made a big dent in that market. Though more expensive than briquettes (which contain fillers), hardwood charcoal burns hotter and cleaner. If you’re used to briquettes, which tend to burn at a consistent rate, lump hard-
wood charcoal can take some getting used to. The best of both worlds are solid hardwood charcoal briquettes, which many restaurants use for live-fire grills. Make certain that the label clearly states “solid hardwood charcoal briquettes”; if it doesn’t, you’re buying briquettes with fillers.
how hot is your fire? Use visual clues shown below to determine how hot your charcoal fire is.
How to light To light a gas grill: Follow the manufacturer’s directions for li ghting. Be sure to give a gas grill pl enty of preheating time so that the grill and the grates are really hot when you start cooking. Crank all the burners up to the highest setting to heat (you can always adjust one or more burners later). To light a charcoal grill: The easiest way to start a charcoal fire is with a chimney starter. Load the top of the metal canister with charcoal, stuff newspaper in the bottom, and light the paper with a match. Updraft spreads the fire from the paper to the charcoal, and in about 30 minutes, all your coals are glowing. Turn the starter over (beware: the handle will be hot) to dump the coals into the grill. Don’t begin grilling until the red coals are covered with a light ash, which indicates a hot fire. When the fire is medium hot, the coals will be more thickly covered and the ash will look yellowish.
When the coals are all bright red and still flaming, they’re very hot—too hot for most grilling.
The fire will be a little cooler when the coals are red but covered with a light ash.
When should you use direct heat or indirect heat? To some degree, your success as a gril ler hinges on your ability to use direct and indirect heat appropriately. Direct grilling means the food is set right over the fire. Indirect grilling means the food is set to the side of the fire, not directly over it. This charcoal fire is ready for grilling. The red coals are covered with ash.
When the fire is medium hot, the coals will be thickly covered with a yellowish ash. For best results, keep the grilling grate about 4 inches above the coals.
Continued on p. 12
FINECOOKING.COM
11
grill guide
make it smoky
when is it done?
For a little more smoky flavor from your charcoal grill, spread the coals in an even layer but light them only on one side. The fire will spread as you’re cooking, igniting new coals and continuously producing smoke.
managing flare-ups You can prevent flare-ups by letting excess marinade or oil drain or drip off before putting food on the fire. When flare-ups do happen, move food to a cooler spot on the grill or temporarily cut off the air to the grill by covering it or shutting the air vents. Be especially vigilant when grilling foods that have sugar, butter, or booze in their rub or marinade as these ingredients are especially flammable.
should you grill with the lid up or down? When you’re using indirect heat, the grill must be covered to create the convective atmosphere, as explained at right. When direct grilling, you can have the lid open or closed, but grilling pros seem to prefer to keep it closed. The main advantage is that food cooks more quickly and evenly since it’s receiving both radiant and convective heat. “The more you lift the lid, the l onger it takes to cook,” says Elizabeth Karmel, a grilling guru and author of Taming the Flame. More reasons to keep the lid on: You’ll get fewer flare-ups since there’s less air available to fuel them, you’ll trap more smoke (if you’re using wood chips), and you might even get deeper grill marks since the grates will be a bit hotter.
12 G R I L L I N G 2 0 1 6
To understand when and why you should use each method, it helps to think about the different types of heat transfer occurring in a grill. First, there’s the very intense radiant heat emanating from the coals or gas flames. Second, the hot grill grates deliver heat by conduction. And finally, there’s convection, which is the hot air circulating around the food when the lid is down. Direct grilling uses intense radiant heat. When your food is right above the fire, the strong heat energy radiating off the coals or burners is doing most of the cooking. This type of heat is very effective at searing a steak, charring bell peppers, and producing all the delicious caramelized flavors that come from high-heat cooking. Conduction also plays a role, as the blazing hot grates are what form those nice grill marks. The trouble with direct grilling is that it’s all too easy to burn the outside of your food before the inside is fully cooked. (If you’ve ever tried to grill, say, a large roast or even large pieces of bone-in chicken directly over a hot fire, you’ve experienced this.) Think of direct grilling in the same context as broiling or even sautéing: The proximity to the heat is perfect for browning meat, and it’s also ideal for cooking thin, tender items like shrimp or boneless chicken breasts. Or follow the advice of Jamie Purviance, the author of Weber’s Real Grilling: Use direct heat for anything that will cook through in less than 20 minutes: hamburgers, thinner chops, pork tenderloin, and most vegetables.
When using an instant-read thermometer to check the doneness of meat on the grill, keep in mind that temperatures go up 5° to 10° as meat rests off the heat. Pull food off the grill a few degrees shy of the temperatures listed below.
Type of meat
Ideal temperature (in °F)
Chicken and turkey
Breast: 160° to 165° Thigh: 170° to 175°
Beef and lamb
Rare: 120° to 130° Medium rare: 130° to 135° Medium: 140° to 150° Medium well: 155° to 165°
Veal
Medium: 140° to 155°
Pork
Medium: 140° Medium well: 155° to 165°
Fish
Medium rare: 120° Medium: 135°
Indirect grilling relies on convection. There are a few ways to set up a grill for indirect cooking, but in all cases, your food goes over an area of the grate without fire beneath it. When you close the lid and open the vents, cool air i s sucked into the grill, forcing the hot air inside to circulate. This movement of hot air cooks the food more quickly and evenly. In effect, you’ve turned your grill into a convection oven, with the air vents acting as the fan. Indirect grilling is the way to go for large, tough, or fatty meats like whole chicken, spareribs, pork shoulder, or anything that would likely burn before it cooked through over direct heat. Fattier meats have fewer flare-ups when grilled indirectly: Since the fat isn’t dripping onto flames, it won’t ignite. Of course, you can combine methods for the best of both world s. For example, you could start a thick pork chop over the fire to develop grill marks and a nicely browned crust and then slide it over an area with no heat to finish grilli ng indirectly, taking advantage of the milder, more even heat of convection.
Grilling Pantry Keep these items on hand to whip up delicious glazes, sauces, marinades, rubs, and more. Bacon. It makes everything taste better. Try wrapping a thin piece around a piece of halibut or a chicken breast before grilling.
sauce, and sesame oil for a delicious Asi an marinade that’s perfect for shrimp, beef, or chicken.
Barbecue sauce. Tasty when homemade, a quality purchased one is always good to have on hand, too.
Honey or maple syrup. A great way to add a little sweetness to a marinade or glaze, maple syrup can also boost the flavor of a brine.
Beer. Refreshing to drink while grilling, it can also be brushed on food to add a little flavor and keep the meat moist. Apple juice makes a fine non-alcoholic substitute. Bourbon and other booze. Bourbon is a southern favorite for mops and sauces, and tequila often adds flavor to marinades with a southwestern feel. Brown sugar. When you want delicious caramelization, add a little brown sugar to your spice rub or marinade. It’s also a key component in many homemade barbecue sauces. Citrus fruit, especially lemons, limes, and oranges. Use both the juice and zest to add flavor to marinades and rubs. A pretty wedge of lemon or lime on the plate lets guests add a bright burst of flavor to their grilled food. Flavored butters. You can easily make flavored butter, also called compound butter, by adding herbs and other flavorings (shallots, anchovies, roasted peppers) to softened unsalted butter. A pat placed on hot grilled beef, chicken, or fish adds a ton of flavor. Flavored oils. Flavored oils, purchased or homemade, can be delicious in marinades; toasted sesame is especially good in Asianinspired ones. Use more delicate oils, such as herb-infused oils and truffle oil, to drizzle over grilled foods as a flavorful finish. Freshly ground black pepper. Freshly ground pepper has a lot more flavor and a better texture than preground, and you can adjust the level of coarseness to suit your taste or the recipe.
Hot sauce. When you want a little kick in your salsa, sauce, or marinade, reach for a bottle of hot sauce. Sriracha, an Asian hot sauce, also makes a great condiment at the table. Ketchup. Most obviously a condiment for hamburgers, ketchup can also be used in homemade barbecue sauce and marinades for steak. Jams and jellies. For an instant glaze, brush some on at the end of grilli ng. Peach preserves with a pinch of crushed red pepper flakes are delicious on pork tenderloin. Mayonnaise. Though welcome on a burger, mayo is indispensable for whipping up a potato salad or slaw to serve with grilled fare. Mustard. Beyond topping hot dogs, mustard is often used in combination with spice rubs, adding both flavor and moisture. Olive oils. Save extra-virgin olive oil for vinaigrettes or to drizzle over grilled vegetables. For marinades, you can use regular pure olive oil. Salt. Use kosher salt for seasoning. Not only does it taste better than table salt, but you can also easily see the individual grains, which means you can salt more evenly. Soy sauce. A splash of soy sauce will add depth of flavor to just about any marinade, Asian-inspired or not.
Fresh herbs. Chopped and combined with a little olive oil, fresh herbs make a great coating for chicken, beef, lamb, and fish. They’re also delicious in sauces.
Spices, whole and ground. Commonly used spices for grilling and barbecue include cayenne, chili powder, cumin, coriander, crushed red pepper flakes, fennel, and paprika. Asian spices like five-spice powder and star anise pack a lot of flavor. Or to add a smoky flavor, try smoked ground pepper, such as chipotle or pimentón.
Garlic. Fresh garlic, chopped finely or pounded into a paste with salt, adds a lot of flavor to rubs and marinades. Garlic salt and granulated garlic are also widely used in classic barbecue spice rubs.
Vegetable oils. These oils, especially canola and grapeseed, have a neutral flavor that works well in most marinades. They’re cheaper than good extra-virgin olive oil, too, so use them to oil the grill grate.
Ginger. Fresh ginger adds zing to marinades and is often combined with garlic, soy
Vinegar. Often used in mops and sauces, vinegar nicely counters any sweetness from brown sugar or honey.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 13
RAISIN CHILI SALSA CHEESEBURGER
See recipe on opposite page
Find hundreds of other raisin-powered recipes at
SUNMAID.COM/RECIPES
THE SECRET INGREDIENT IS
RAISIN RECIPE
NO.
10 7
Raisin Chili Salsa Cheeseburger —— I N G R E D I E N T S —— · 1 lb. tomatillos, husked, destemmed, cut into 4
For over 100 years, Sun-Maid’s natural sweetness has elevated all kinds of dishes—everything from stews to salsas. So the next time you’re getting creative in the kitchen, #RememberRaisins
· 2 large Hatch chilies (or poblano), seeded, destemmed, cut in half · 1 jalapeño pepper, seeded, destemmed, cut in half · /1 2 large red onion, peeled, cut into 4 · 2 lg cloves garlic, peeled, cut in half · 1 long dried guajillo pepper, seeded, destemmed, cut into 4 pieces · 2 Tbsp lime juice · /1 2 cup packed fresh cilantro leaves, destemmed · /1 2 cup raisins · 1 tsp kosher salt · Cotija cheese · Fresh vegetables
—— D I R E C T I O N S —— - Heat oven to 425°F. - On two parchment-lined 15” x 10” x 1” pans, place tomatillo slices, Hatch chilies, jalapeño pepper, red onion, and garlic. - Place on two racks in oven. Roast for 15 mins. - After 15 mins reposition pans so bottom pan is now on top rack and continue roasting for 15 more mins.
A I N R O F I L A C F O S R E W O R G D I A M N U S 6 1 0 2 ©
- Meanwhile, place guajillo pepper pieces in lime juice and soak for 15 mins; set aside. - Dice all ingredients and mix together. Or for a smoother consistency, place all ingredients in a food processor or blender and pulse for 15 secs. - Prepare a burger according to your liking and top with Raisin Chili Salsa, Cotija cheese, and fresh vegetables.
Grilled Scallops with Rémoulade Sauce, p. 18
Grilled Porterhouse Steak with Chimichurri Sauce, p. 4
Appetizers Wow guests with tasty tidbits served straight from the grill. Pass small plates, put a smoky twist on the vegetable and cracker trays, and more.
Grilled Scallops with Rémoulade Sauce, p. 18 Grilled Watermelon Gazpacho with Lime Crema , p. 18 Grilled Beets with Lemon Crème Fraîche Dip, p. 19 Rustic Eggplant Dip (Melanzanosalata), p. 20 Grilled “Salad” Pizzettes with Balsamic Drizzle and Flavored Oils, p. 21 Bruschetta with Grilled Eggplant and Vidalia Onion, p. 22 Bacon-Wrapped Stuffed Apricots, p. 23
APPETIZERS
grilled scallops with rémoulade sauce This is a take on the more-familiar shrimp rémoulade but with sweet scallops and a bold grilled flavor. See the photo on p. 16. Serves 4 to 6 ½ cup good-quality mayonnaise, preferably a brand without a lot of sugar, such as Duke’s 1 Tbs. capers, drained and minced 1 Tbs. sweet pickle relish 1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh tarragon 1 Tbs. finely minced shallot 1 tsp. tarragon vinegar or Champagne vinegar 1 to 2 cloves garlic, minced ½ tsp. Dijon mustard Kosher salt Pinch of paprika 20 to 24 large sea scallops (1½ to 1¾ lb.), all about the same thickness, side muscle removed Canola oil, for the scallops Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the rémoulade sauce, put the mayonnaise, capers, pickle relish, tarragon, shallot, vinegar, garlic, mustard, salt, and paprika into a blender. Pulse several times, until well combined. Brush each scallop on all sides with the canola oil and season with salt and pepper. If you like, thread two scallops each through doubled skewers. (This helps in the cooking and turning process, but you can skip the skewering if your scallops are big enough not to fall through the grill grate when cooking.) Heat a gas grill to high or prepare a hot charcoal fire. Place the scallops on the grill and cook for 2 to 3 minutes on one side. Turn and cook until the scallops are barely opaque in the center and feel firm to the touch but with some give, another 2 to 3 minutes; be careful not to overcook them. Serve with the rémoulade sauce. To mimic the style of a classic New Orleans lunch, toss the scallops with the sauce and serve them over a bed of shredded lettuce.
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grilled watermelon gazpacho with lime crema Watermelon, grilled to enhance its sweetness, balances the smoky-spicy kick of chipotle powder in this refreshing summer soup. Serves 4 to 6; yields 5 cups 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil ½ tsp. chipotle chile powder 3 lb. watermelon (about ��� of 1 large melon), sliced ¾ inch thick Kosher salt 1 medium tomato, coarsely chopped ¾ cup chopped English cucumber, peeled ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro 1 Tbs. chopped shallot ½ medium serrano chile, seeded and chopped 3½ Tbs. fresh lime juice ½ Tbs. red-wine vinegar ¼ cup crème fraîche
Heat a gas grill to high or prepare a hot charcoal fire. In a small bowl, combine 1 Tbs. of the oil with the chipotle powder. Brush the watermelon slices with the chipotle oil and sprinkle with ½ tsp. salt. Grill the watermelon until nicely charred on both sides,
about 1 minute per side. Transfer to a cutting board. When cool enough to handle, remove the rind, seed if necessary, and coarsely chop the flesh. In a blender, combine the watermelon flesh, tomato, cucumber, cilantro, shallot, serrano chile, and the remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil. Blend until almost smooth. Transfer to a medium bowl and stir in 1½ Tbs. of the lime juice, the vinegar, and season to taste with salt. Refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, about 4 hours. When ready to serve, combine the crème fraîche with the remaining 2 Tbs. lime juice in a small bowl. Taste the soup and correct the seasoning, if necessary. Ladle the soup into cups and garnish with a drizzle of the lime-crème fraîche mixture.
grilled beets with lemon crème fraîche dip Grilling the beets in a foil packet with garlic, beer, and fresh thyme infuses them with extra flavor. The beets may be grilled a day ahead. Serves 6 to 8 10 medium beets (about 4 lb.), trimmed and washed 1 head garlic, halved crosswise 3 fl. oz. (¼ cup plus 2 Tbs.) pale ale 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 3 sprigs fresh thyme Kosher salt 1 cup crème fraîche 4 tsp. fresh lemon juice
In a large bowl, toss the beets and garlic with the ale, oil, thyme, and 2 Tbs. salt. Transfer to a large square of heavy-duty aluminum foil and seal into a packet. Prepare a gas or charcoal grill fire for indirect cooking over low (300°F) heat (see Grill Guide, p. 11). Grill the packet over the cool zone of the grill until the beets are completely tender when pierced with a paring knife, about 3 hours. (Alternatively, roast the beets in a 300°F oven for 3 to 3½ hours.)
Remove the beets from the foil, peel them, and cut them into quarters. (Discard the garlic.) Transfer the beets to a serving bowl or platter. (The beets may be prepared 1 day ahead; refrigerate and return to room temperature before serving.) In a small bowl, mix the crème fraîche and lemon juice. Season to taste with salt. Serve the beets warm or at room temperature with the lemon crème fraîche dip on the side.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 19
APPETIZERS
rustic eggplant dip (melanzanosalata) Grilling the eggplant here adds a wonderfully smoky flavor. Yields about 2 cups; serves 8 to 10 2 small eggplants (1½ lb. total) 1 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup seeded and finely diced fresh tomato 2 Tbs. minced yellow onion 1½ tsp. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice 1 tsp. red-wine vinegar ½ tsp. chopped fresh oregano or marjoram ½ tsp. chopped fresh thyme ½ tsp. chopped fresh mint Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Prepare a medium gas or charcoal grill fire (charcoal will give a smokier flavor). Prick the eggplants once with the tip of a paring knife
20 G R I L L I N G 2 0 1 6
to prevent them from swelling and exploding and rub all over with 1 Tbs. of the oil. Grill, covered but turning every few minutes, until the eggplants are very soft inside and the skins are charred, 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool. Cut the stems off the eggplants and peel away the charred skin; discard the stems and skin. Coarsely chop the flesh and transfer it to a medium bowl. Add the remaining 1 tsp. oil and the tomato, onion, parsley, lemon juice, vinegar, oregano or marjoram, thyme, mint, 1 tsp. salt, and ��� tsp. pepper. Mix well. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours before serving. Season to taste with more salt. Serve cool or at room temperature with fresh pita wedges or toasted pita chips.
Make Ahead The eggplant can be broiled several hours or up to 2 days before making the dip. For best flavor, make the dip a day ahead.
grilled “salad” pizzettes with balsamic drizzle and flavored oils Here is a streamlined, free-form approach to weeknight pizza that features yummy salad greens. Choose the freshest greens—spicy arugula, a jumble of tender lettuces, or an Asian mix that includes mizuna and tat soi. The grilling is easier than you think and goes quickly, so have all your ingredients and tools at the ready before you start. Makes 5 to 6 small pizzettes 2 cups (9 oz.) unbleached all-purpose flour ¾ tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste ��� cup very warm water (110°F) 1� � � tsp. active-dry yeast 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the mixing bowl, sheet pan, brushing, and tossing with the greens 2 to 2½ oz. Parmigiano, Brie, aged Gouda, or other cheese, very thinly sliced or grated 4 cups small salad lettuce leaves, young arugula, baby Asian greens, or a mix, washed and dried Balsamic Drizzle (recipe at right) 1 lemon, cut into six wedges 2 oz. very thinly sliced prosciutto, ripped into smaller pieces (optional) Lemon Oil (optional; recipe at right) A selection of flavored or infused oils, such as blood orange oil, pumpkin seed oil, or truffle oil (optional)
In the bowl of a food processor, combine the flour and the ¾ tsp. salt. In a liquid measure, combine the warm water, yeast, and the 1 Tbs. olive oil. Let the liquid sit for 5 minutes. With the processor running, pour the liquid into the dry ingredients just until a dough forms. Scrape the dough into an oiled mixing bowl and cover it with a dishcloth. Let sit for 50 to 60 minutes. Heat a gas grill to medium high and scrape the grates clean. Arrange tongs, a cutting board, a little bowl of oil and a brush or spoon, some salt, and your cheese near the grill. Arrange the salad greens, Balsamic Drizzle, lemon wedges, and salt in small bowls on your kitchen counter or serving area. Put out a few extra bowls for tossing greens. Coat the back of a sheet pan with a little olive oil, and oil your fingers. Pinch off a knob of dough (about a sixth of the dough), and plop it on the back of the pan. Press it out into a roughly shaped disk that’s 5 to 6 inches in
diameter and ¼ inch thick. Brush the top of the dough with a little more oil and sprinkle with salt. Carry the sheet pan to the grill, set it down, and use both hands to pick up the dough and drape it across the hot grates (it will stretch—don’t worry about the shape). Cover the grill and cook for about 1½ minutes. Uncover, flip the pizzette over with tongs (it should be well marked), and brush it with a little more olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and top with a bit of cheese. Cover and cook for 1 minute. Uncover, transfer to a cutting board or plate, and bring to the serving area. Arrange a few pieces of prosciutto over the cheese, if using. Grab a small handful of greens, sprinkle with salt, and toss with just a tiny bit of Lemon Oil (if desired), olive oil, or infused oil. Arrange the greens on the pizzette, drizzle with a little bit of the Balsamic Drizzle, squeeze a lemon over all, and drizzle again with a tiny bit of oil. Cut into pieces and eat right away. Repeat with the remaining dough to make a total of five or six pizzettes, and grill two or more at a time.
balsamic drizzle 3 Tbs. balsamic vinegar 2 tsp. light brown sugar
In a small skillet, combine the balsamic vinegar and the brown sugar. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook for 1 minute, until slightly syrupy. (It will thicken more when it cools, so do not over-reduce or it will be very thick.) Remove from the heat. Let cool. Store at room temperature, covered, for up to a week.
lemon oil 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 1 Tbs. freshly grated lemon zest
Combine the oil and lemon zest. Let sit for 15 to 30 minutes before using. S tore, covered, in the fridge for a week.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 21
APPETIZERS
bruschetta with grilled eggplant and vidalia onion You can cook the eggplant on a stovetop grill pan with equally delicious results. Serves 6 to 8 1 medium eggplant (1 to 1¼ lb.) 1 medium-large (about 12-oz.) Vidalia onion (or other sweet variety, like Texas Sweet or Walla Walla) ½ cup heavy cream 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves, chopped ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the bread Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano ½ baguette, sliced diagonally into ½-inch-thick slices
Prepare a medium-hot grill fire. Trim off ½ inch from the top and bottom of the eggplant. Cut the eggplant lengthwise into ½-inch-thick slices. Cut the onion crosswise into ½-inch-thick slices. To keep the rings together, insert toothpicks or small skewers horizontally through the rings of each slice. In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, bring the cream, garlic, and thyme to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer gently until the cream has reduced by half, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat. When the grill is ready, brush both sides of the eggplant and onion slices with the ¼ cup olive oil. Arrange the vegetables on the grill and cook with the lid closed until the first sides have started to soften and get grill marks, 2 to 3 minutes for the eggplant and 5 to 6 minutes for the onion. Flip and cook the second sides with the lid closed until the eggplant is tender and the onion is nicely charred but not necessarily fully tender, 2 to 3 minutes more for the eggplant and 5 to 6 minutes more for the onion. Transfer the eggplant to a cutting board and sprinkle with ¼ tsp. kosher salt and ¼ tsp. pepper. Transfer the onion to a large sheet of foil, stack the slices, wrap tightly, and let rest until residual heat has softened the onion, about 5 minutes. Remove the skewers from the onion slices. Coarsely chop the eggplant and onion and combine in a medium bowl. Add the cream mixture and the Parmigiano; stir to combine. Taste and add salt and pepper as needed. Brush the bread slices on both sides with oil and grill until lightly golden brown, 30 seconds to 1 minute per side. Top each slice with a generous dollop of the eggplant mixture.
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Make Ahead The apricots can be assembled and refrigerated up to 1 day before cooking.
bacon-wrapped stuffed apricots Apricot sizes can vary; if yours are on the smaller side, just trim the cheese a bit and squish it in. Serves 6 to 8; makes 24 24 dried apricots (about 7 oz.) 3 oz. plain Havarti, cut into ½- to ¾-inch squares ¼ inch thick 24 almonds (about 1 oz.) 12 strips bacon (about 12 oz.), cut in half crosswise Freshly ground black pepper
Heat a gas grill to high or prepare a hot charcoal fire. Soak 24 toothpicks in water. Pry open the apricots and put a piece of cheese and an almond into each one. Wrap a piece of bacon around each apricot, trimming as necessary so it overlaps by ½ inch,
and secure it with a toothpick. Season the apricots all over with pepper. Reduce the grill heat to medium (scatter the coals a bit or raise the grate if using charcoal). Use tongs to grill the apricots on all sides with the grill open, propping them between the bars to hold them up on the narrow sides. Move the apricots around often to avoid flare-ups. Cook until the bacon is crisp all over, about 6 minutes total. Serve immediately and remind guests to remove the toothpicks.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 23
Grilled Porterhouse Steak with Chimichurri Sauce, p. 26
Grilled Porterhouse Steak with Chimichurri Sauce, p. 4
Beef & Lamb Spice and sauce marry beautifully with steaks, chops, and more.
Grilled Porterhouse Steak with Chimichurri Sauce, p. 26 Grilled Lamb Chops with Charred Red Onion Chutney, p. 26 Grilled Boneless Leg of Lamb with Black Olive Purée, p. 27 Grilled Strip Steaks with Miso-Truffle Butter, p. 28 Grilled Denver Steak and Tomatoes with Caper-Mustard Vinaigrette, p. 29 Champagne-Lavender Marinated Grilled Rib-Eye, p. 30 Korean Barbecued Beef Short Ribs (Kalbi ), p. 31 Turkish Lamb Köfte, p. 32 Carne Asada Tacos, p. 33 Grilled Lamb Chops with Watermelon-Feta Salad, p. 34 Beef Kebabs with Cherry Peppers and Oregano, p. 35
BEEF & LAMB
grilled porterhouse steak with chimichurri sauce This take on the classic Argentinean condiment includes a little heat in the form of a jalapeño; it’s a perfect pairing for a big, beefy porterhouse steak. Finish with a little flaky sea salt before ser ving, if you like. See the photo on p. 24. Serves 4 1 2-inch-thick porterhouse steak (about 2¾ lb.) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1½ cups coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil; more as needed 1 Tbs. sherry vinegar; more as needed 2 medium cloves garlic 1 small jalapeño
Season the steak well with salt and pepper. Let sit at room temperature for at least 1 hour or refrigerate uncovered for up to 48 hours. Meanwhile, make the chimichurri: In a blender, purée the parsley, cilantro, oil, vinegar, garlic, jalapeño, 1 tsp. salt, and ¼ tsp. pepper, adding more oil as needed. Transfer to a small bowl and season to taste with more salt and vinegar, if needed. If the steak is refrigerated, let it come to room temperature before grilling. For a charcoal grill, light a chimney starter full of charcoal and bank the coals against one side of the grill. For a gas grill, start with all burners on medium high and then turn off one or more of the burners to create a hot zone and a cool zone. Pat the steak dry and grill over the hottest part of the grill, rotating it occasionally to create a crust, until well browned on one side, 2 to 4 minutes. Flip and sear the other side. Move the steak to the cooler part of the grill, cover, and cook to your desired doneness (about 14 to 18 minutes for medium rare). Let rest 5 to 10 minutes before serving with the chimichurri sauce.
Make Ahead The sauce will keep in the fridge for 1 week.
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grilled lamb chops with charred red onion chutney Grilled onions become a savory chutney after a quick simmer with fresh tomato, a touch of sugar, vinegar, and spices. Serve with grilled or roasted potatoes. Serves 4 1 large red onion, cut crosswise into ½-inch-thick slices 3 Tbs. canola oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 tsp. whole cumin seeds Pinch crushed red pepper flakes 1 medium ripe tomato, cored and chopped 2 Tbs. apple cider vinegar 1 tsp. granulated sugar 4 ¾-inch-thick bone-in lamb shoulder chops (2 to 2½ lb. total)
Prepare a medium-high gas or charcoal grill fire. Rub the onion slices with 1 Tbs. of the oil, keeping the rings intact, and season with 1 tsp. salt and ¼ tsp. pepper. Arrange them on the grill in a single layer and cook, flipping once, until lightly charred, 8 to 10 m inutes. Transfer the onions to a cutting board and chop into small pieces.
Heat 1 Tbs. of the oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the cumin and pepper flakes and cook, stirring constantly, until toasted and fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the chopped onions, tomato, vinegar, sugar, ½ tsp. salt, ¼ tsp. pepper, and ��� cup water. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and boil until the onions are soft, 5 to 7 minutes. Uncover the pot and continue to boil, stirring often, until thickened, about 5 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Meanwhile, rub the lamb all over with the remaining 1 Tbs. oil and season with 2 tsp. salt and ½ tsp. pepper. Grill, flipping once, until deep golden brown outside and medium rare inside, about 8 minutes total. Serve topped with the chutney.
grilled boneless leg of lamb with black olive purée This herb-and-garlic-rubbed lamb is super easy to make yet so full of flavor, especially when paired with a tangy olive spread and a squeeze of lemon. If you don’t have a grill, you can roast the lamb in a 425°F oven for about 25 minutes. Serve with potatoes and green beans or a green salad topped with goat cheese. Serves 8 1 cup pitted black olives, such as Kalamata ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil ½ cup finely chopped fresh herbs, such as a mix of parsley, rosemary, and thyme 4 large cloves garlic, minced and mashed to a paste with a pinch of salt 4 to 4½ lb. butterflied leg of lamb Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper ½ large lemon, seeded
Finely chop the olives until paste-like. Whisk in half of the olive oil and 1 Tbs. of the herbs. (Refrigerate if not using within a few hours; let come to room temperature before using.) Combine the remaining herbs and oil with the garlic in a small bowl.
Rub the herb and garlic marinade all over the lamb and wrap it well in plastic wrap. If grilling right away, let sit at room temperature for 1 hour. If not, refrigerate for up to 24 hours. When ready to grill, prepare a medium (375°F) charcoal or gas grill fire. Season the lamb generously with salt and pepper. Grill the lamb, flipping once, until the thickest part is 120°F for medium rare, 15 to 18 minutes. Transfer the lamb to a cutting board, squeeze the lemon half over it, tent with foil, and let rest for 10 minutes. Thinly slice across the grain, drizzle any accumulated juice over it, and serve with the olive purée.
BEEF & LAMB
grilled strip steaks with miso-truffle butter There’s something about the way salty, savory miso mingles with charred grilled beef that’s impossible to resist. You’ll have leftover miso butter, but it will keep in the fridge for a week and can even be frozen. Serves 4 4 oz. (½ cup) unsalted butter, softened ¼ cup white miso 1 tsp. white truffle oil 2 12- to 16-oz. New York strip steaks, 1 to 1½ inches thick Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Mash the butter with the miso in a small bowl. Mix in the truffle oil. Season the steak well with salt and pepper. Let sit at room temperature for at least 1 hour or refrigerate uncovered for up to 48 hours. If the steak is refrigerated, let it come to room temperature before grilling. For a charcoal grill, light a chimney starter full of charcoal and bank the coals against one side of the grill. For a gas grill, start with all burners on medium high and then turn off one or more of the burners to create a hot zone and a cool zone. Pat the steak dry and grill over the hottest part of the grill, rotating it occasionally to create a crust, until well browned on one side, 2 to 4 minutes. Flip and sear the other side. Move the steak to the cooler part of the grill, cover, and cook to your desired doneness (about 5 to 10 minutes for medium rare). Let rest 5 to 10 minutes, cut the steaks in half, top each piece with 1 to 2 Tbs. of the butter, and serve.
Make Ahead The miso butter can be refrigerated, covered, for up to 1 week. Bring to room temperature before topping the steak with it.
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grilled denver steak and tomatoes with caper-mustard vinaigrette A bold and briny vinaigrette acts as both marinade and sauce for beefy grilled steak. Serve with garlic-rubbed grilled bread and a green salad, if you like. If you can’t find Denver steak, substitute top sirloin or New York strip. Serves 4 3 Tbs. red-wine vinegar 2 medium cloves garlic, minced 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard ½ tsp. anchovy paste ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 Denver steaks (about 8 oz. each) Kosher salt and coarsely ground black pepper 1½ lb. firm-ripe tomatoes (about 3 large), sliced ½ inch thick 2 Tbs. capers, rinsed and drained 1 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
In a small bowl, combine the vinegar, garlic, mustard, and anchovy paste. Slowly whisk in the oil. Put the steaks in a glass or ceramic dish large enough to hold them in a single layer.
Reserve ¼ cup of the vi naigrette and pour the rest evenly over the steaks. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 and up to 24 hours. (Refrigerate the reserved marinade if not using within a few hours. Return to room temperature before using.) About 45 minutes before serving, remove the steaks from the refrigerator. Prepare a medium-high (400°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. Take the steaks out of the marinade, letting any excess drip off, and season with salt and pepper. Grill for 4 minutes, flip, and grill until medium rare (130°F), about 4 minutes more. Transfer to a cutting board to rest for 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, season the tomato slices with salt and grill them on one side only until grill marks appear, about 3 minutes. Using a spatula, transfer them to a plate. Whisk the capers and parsley i nto the reserved vinaigrette. Cut the steaks across the grain into ½-inch-thick slices and serve with the tomatoes and the vinaigrette.
champagne-lavender marinated grilled rib-eye Lavender may not immediately come to mind when you think of steak, but paired with thyme and Champagne vinegar, it adds a subtle summery note to the meat, as if you were enjoying your steak at a bistro in P rovence. Serves 4 to 6 1 tsp. dried lavender Kosher salt ��� cup Champagne vinegar ��� cup extra-virgi n olive oil ½ tsp. chopped fresh thyme Freshly ground black pepper 2 1 ½-inch-thick bone-in rib-eye steaks (about 2 lb.)
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To make the marinade, crush the lavender with a pinch of salt and then add it to the vinegar. Let steep for at least 5 hours. (The vinegar will keep in the refrigerator for weeks.) When ready to marinate, whisk the vinegar (no need to strain) with the olive oil, thyme, ½ tsp. salt, and ¼ tsp. pepper. Reserve some of the marinade for basting, if you like, then use the rest to marinate the steaks for at least 30 minutes at room temperature and up to 8 hours refrigerated.
If refrigerated, let the steaks come to room temperature before grilling. Pat the meat dry and season with additional salt and pepper. For a charcoal grill, light a chimney starter full of charcoal and bank the coals against one side of the grill. For a gas grill, start with all burners on medium high and then turn off one or more of the burners. Grill the steaks over the hottest part of the grill, rotating them occasionally to create a crust, until well browned on one
side, 2 to 4 minutes. Flip and sear the other side. Move the steak to the cooler part of the grill, cover, and cook, basting occasionally with the reserved marinade, to your desired doneness, about 8 to 12 minutes for medium rare. Let rest 5 to 10 minutes before serving.
korean barbecued beef short ribs (kalbi) The longer you marinate these thinly sliced short ribs, the better they’ll taste; overnight is best. Asian pear is a common addition to the marinade, but apple juice is a nice substitution because it’s easier to find. Serves 6 FOR THE SHORT RIBS 6 Tbs. granulated sugar 6 Tbs. soy sauce 6 Tbs. apple (or Asian pear) juice ¼ cup Asian sesame oil 4 medium cloves garlic, smashed 4 tsp. finely grated peeled fresh ginger (from a 2-inch piece) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 lb. ½-inch-thick, cross-cut, bone-in short ribs (flanken) Vegetable oil, as needed FOR SERVING ¼ cup thinly sliced scallions, both white and green parts (about 2 medium) Big pinch of Korean chile threads or 2 Tbs. thinly sliced fresh long red chiles 1 tsp. roasted sesame seeds 18 lettuce leaves (such as green or red leaf), washed and dried 4 cups cooked white rice, preferably short-grain Ssamjang (recipe at right) MARINATE THE SHORT RIBS
In a large bowl, combine the sugar, soy sauce, apple juice, sesame oil, garlic, and ginger with a pinch of salt and pepper. Add the short ribs and, using your hands, massage the marinade into the meat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 and up to 12 hours. GRILL THE SHORT RIBS
Prepare a hot (450°F) charcoal or gas grill fire. Clean and lightly oil the grill grate. Remove the short ribs from the marinade and let any excess drip off; discard the marinade. Grill the short ribs, flipping once, until done to your liking, about 4 minutes total for medium rare. Transfer to a serving platter.
ssamjang This deeply flavored, spicy sauce gets its name from ssam, meaning “wrapped,” and jang, meaning “sauce.” It’s often served with grilled dishes, including kalbi and dak gogi, which are eaten wrapped in lettuce with rice and this sauce. Once you start eating it, it’s hard to stop. Yields ��� cup ½ cup thinly sliced scallions, both white and green parts (about 4 medium) 3 Tbs. dwenjang (fermented soy bean paste) or red miso 2½ Tbs. gochujang (red chile paste)
In a small bowl, whisk together all of the sauce ingredients. (You can make the sauce up to 2 days ahead. Cover and refrigerate; bring to room temperature before serving.)
2 Tbs. mirin 2 tsp. roasted sesame seeds 1 tsp. Asian sesame oil
TO SERVE
Garnish the meat with the scallions, chile threads, and sesame seeds. Serve with the lettuce, rice, and Ssamjang, cutting the bones from the meat with kitchen shears before eating. To eat, put a small spoonful of rice inside a lettuce leaf, dab it with some sauce, and top with a piece of the beef. Wrap and eat.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 31
BEEF & LAMB
turkish lamb köe
Use wide, flat skewers to keep the köfte from spinning when you turn them on the grill.
Found all over Turkey and the Middle East, köfte (KOF-ta) are essentially meatballs, often made from lamb. They’re traditionally served with warm flatbread, raw onions, and plain yogurt, but they are also great with a bright, tangy yogurt sauce. The spice mix makes more than you’ll need—use it on beef, pork, and grilled vegetables, or stir it into hummus and other dips. Look for ground sumac and pomegranate molasses at Middle Eastern markets. Serves 4
FOR THE SPICE MIX 1 Tbs. ground cumin 1½ tsp. dried mint 1½ tsp. dried oregano 1 tsp. sweet paprika 1 tsp. hot paprika 1 tsp. cracked black pepper FOR THE POMEGRANATE-YOGURT SAUCE ½ cup plain yogurt 1 Tbs. pomegranate molasses; more for serving 2 Tbs. chopped fresh mint 1 tsp. ground sumac or ½ tsp. fresh lemon juice FOR THE KÖFTE 1 lb. ground lamb 1 medium plum tomato, seeded and finely diced ¼ cup finely grated red onion 1 tsp. pomegranate molasses 1 medium clove garlic, minced ¾ tsp. kosher salt Vegetable oil, as needed 2 Tbs. pomegranate seeds (optional) 2 Tbs. small fresh mint leaves (optional) MAKE THE SPICE MIX Combine all of the ingredients in a small bowl. MAKE THE YOGURT SAUCE Combine all of the ingredients in a small bowl. MAKE THE KÖFTE Soak eight 12-inch flat, wide wooden skewers in water for 30 minutes. Put the lamb, tomato, onion, pomegranate molasses, garlic, 1 Tbs. of the spice mix, and salt in a large bowl. Using your hands, mix until combined and the meat is a bit sticky. With wet hands, divide the lamb into eight portions. Working with one portion at a time and rewetting your hands as necessary to prevent sticking, press the lamb around the skewers into sausage shapes about 4½ inches long. Transfer to a baking sheet, cover loosely with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 and up to 4 hours. Prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas or charcoal grill fire for direct grilling. Oil the grill grate. Grill the köfte, turning once, until no longer pink in the center (cut into one to check), about 6 minutes. Garnish with the pomegranate seeds and mint, if using. Drizzle more pomegranate molasses over the yogurt sauce, then serve with the sauce.
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carne asada tacos Often featured in fajitas, skirt steak is perfect for tacos, too. Because of the meat’s striations, it slices into bits that have the perfect amount of tenderness, chew, and caramelized nubbins. Tangy pickled onion and salsa verde are the perfect accom paniments. Makes 18 tacos; serves 6 FOR THE STEAK 4 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped 1 jalapeño, stemmed, seeded, and coarsely chopped 1½ cups fresh cilantro leaves ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup fresh orange juice 2 Tbs. fresh lime juice Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 lb. skirt steak, trimmed of excess surface fat FOR THE QUICK PICKLED ONION 1 medium red onion, halved and thinly sliced ¼ cup kosher salt 2 tsp. granulated sugar ½ cup distilled white vinegar FOR THE SALSA VERDE 1 lb. tomatillos, husked and rinsed under warm water, halved 6 sprigs fresh cilantro, leaves chopped and stems reserved ½ small yellow onion, coarsely chopped 1 jalapeño, stemmed, seeded, and coarsely chopped 1 medium clove garlic, peeled 1 Tbs. fresh lime juice Kosher salt FOR SERVING 18 corn tortillas 1 cup fresh cilantro leaves 4 oz. (1 cup) crumbled cotija cheese or queso fresco 4 limes, cut into wedges MARINATE THE STEAK Pulse the garlic and jalapeño in a food processor until finely chopped. Add the cilantro and pulse a couple more times. Transfer to a baking dish or zip-top bag large enough to hold the steak. Add the oil, orange juice, lime juice, ½ tsp. salt, and a few grinds of pepper and stir to combine. Add the steak and marinate for at least 1 hour at room temperature or up to 3 hours i n the refrigerator.
PICKLE THE ONION In a medium bowl, toss the onion with the salt and sugar to coat well. Let sit at room temperature until the onion softens, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer to a fine-mesh strainer and rinse under cool water while tossing with your fingers to remove the salt and sugar. Pat dry on paper towels. In a small bowl, combine the onion and vinegar. Cover and refrigerate until needed. MAKE THE SALSA VERDE Put the tomatillos, cilantro stems, onion, jalapeño, and garlic in a 2-quart saucepan. Add 1½ cups water and cook over medium heat until the onion is translucent and the tomatillos are tender, about 30 minutes. Using an imm ersion blender, regular blender, or food processor, purée until almost smooth. Allow the mixture to cool. Add the chopped cilantro leaves and lime juice and season to taste with salt. Refrigerate until needed. (Leftover salsa will keep for a week.)
GRILL THE STEAK AND SERVE Prepare a high (500°F to 600°F) charcoal or gas grill fire. Remove the steak from the marinade, season with salt and pepper, and grill, flipping once, until grill marks form on both sides and cooked to your liking, about 3 minutes per side for medium rare (135°F). Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, warm the tortillas on the grill until light grill marks form on both sides and they soften, about 30 seconds. Slice the steaks with the grain into 4- to 5-inch-long pieces, then against the grain into thin slices no wider than ¼ inch. Assemble the tacos with the tortillas, steak, salsa, pickled onion, cilantro, and cheese. Serve with lime wedges for squeezing over.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 33
BEEF & LAMB
grilled lamb chops with watermelon-feta salad Fresh, juicy watermelon is the perfect counterpoint to sweet, smoky lamb. Add tangy cheese, salty olives, and fresh mint, and each bite explodes with flavor. Serve with grilled bread and call it a delicious day. Serves 2 ½ small red onion, very thinly sliced crosswise (about ½ cup) 2 tsp. dark brown sugar 1 tsp. smoked paprika Kosher salt 6 lamb rib chops (about 1 lb.) 12 oz. watermelon, rind removed, thinly sliced into narrow wedges, seeded if necessary 12 Kalamata olives, pitted and sliced lengthwise 3 oz. (��� cup) crumbled feta 6 fresh mint leaves, thinly sliced 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more for serving 1 oz. (1 cup) baby arugula 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
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In a small bowl, soak the onion in cold water for at least 10 minutes. Drain. Meanwhile, prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. (Or position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the broiler on high.) In a small bowl, combine the sugar, paprika, and 2 tsp. salt. Sprinkle over both sides of the chops. Divide the watermelon between two dinner plates and sprinkle lightly wi th salt. Top with the onion, olives, feta, mint, and a little oil. Drizzle a little oil over the chops, and then grill or broil them, flipping once, until done to your liking, 4 to 6 minutes total for medium rare ( 130°F). In a medium bowl, toss the arugula with the 1 Tbs. oil and lemon juice. Season to taste with salt, and pile it on the watermelon salad. Serve the chops with the salad.
grilled bread “sticks” Thin slices of grilled bread round out this dish. To make them, slice ¼-inch-thick pieces from a baguette, lengthwise if the loaf is short or on a sharp diagonal if long. Brush with olive oil, grill until grill marks appear, and season well with salt and pepper.
beef kebabs with cherry peppers and oregano These grilled marinated beef skewers are based on a traditional appetizer at many Boston pizzerias, most famously Santarpio’s in East Boston. Spicy-tangy cherry peppers give the dish a delicious kick. Serve with crusty bread. Serves 4 ¼ cup plus 2 Tbs. extra-virgi n olive oil 3 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano 2 Tbs. soy sauce 2 Tbs. red-wine vinegar 1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce 2 tsp. granulated sugar 2 medium cloves garlic, chopped (2 tsp.) 1½ lb. sirloin tip steaks (about 4), cut into 1½ -inch chunks Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup seeded and chopped jarred Italian hot cherry peppers
In a large bowl, mix ¼ cup of the oil, 2 Tbs. of the oregano, the soy sauce, vinegar, Worcestershire, sugar, and garlic. Season the beef with 1 tsp. salt and 1 tsp. pepper and transfer to the bowl, tossing to coat. Refrigerate, covered, for at least 8 and up to 24 hours. Prepare a gas or charcoal grill fire for direct grilling over medium-high heat (400°F). While the grill heats, thread the beef onto long metal (or soaked wooden) skewers, leaving a little space between the pieces, and let sit at room temperature.
Grill the beef until grill marks form, about 2 minutes. Flip and continue cooking until grill marks form on the other side, about 2 minutes more. Continue to cook, flipping occasionally, until cooked to your liking, about 2 minutes more for medium rare (130°F to 135°F). Transfer to plates or a serving platter and let rest for a few minutes. Drizzle with the remaining 2 Tbs. olive oil and sprinkle with the remaining 1 Tbs. oregano and the cherry peppers.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 35
Cornmeal and Green Peppercorn Crusted Spareribs, p. 38
Pork Quick, lean cuts result in satisfying weeknight meals, while low-and-slow-cooked classics provide the centerpiece for deliciously memorable cookouts.
Cornmeal and Green Peppercorn Crusted Spareribs, p. 38 Grilled Asian Pork Tenderloin with Peanut Sauce, p. 38 Bourbon-and-Vanilla-Brined Pork Chops, p. 39 Grilled Pork Chops with Sweet-andSour Onions, p. 40 North Carolina–Style Pulled Pork, p. 40 Cuban Pork with Mojo (Lechon Asado con Mojo), p. 42 Rum-Glazed Pork Skewers with Coconut Rice, p. 44 Herb-Rubbed Pork Spareribs with Honey-Lemon Glaze, p. 45
PORK
cornmeal and green peppercorn crusted spareribs Prepare this recipe the day before you plan to serve it; that way, the ribs will absorb more flavor from the crust as they rest overnight. See the photo on p. 36. Serves 6 to 8 ¾ lb. (2 cups) medium-grind yellow cornmeal 2 oz. (¾ cup) dried green peppercorns 1 oz. kosher salt (¼ cup if using Diamond Crystal; 2 Tbs. if using Morton) ½ cup pure maple syrup ��� cup vegetable oil or melted bacon fat 1 Tbs. bourbon, preferably Evan Williams Kentucky Straight 2 racks St. Louis-style pork spareribs (5 to 6 lb. total), silverskin removed (see Test Kitchen, p. 109)
Prepare a gas or charcoal grill fire for indirect cooking over low (300°F) heat (see Grill Guide, p. 11). In a large bowl, mix the cornmeal, peppercorns, salt, maple syrup, oil or bacon fat, and bourbon. Coat the meat side of the ribs with the mixture and wrap each rack in foil. Arrange the ribs meat side up in a single layer over the cool zone of the grill. Close the lid and cook the ribs until fork-tender, 3 to 3½ hours. Let cool to room temperature and then refrigerate for at least 2 hours but preferably overnight. (If refrigerating overnight, let the ribs sit at room temperature for 1 hour before continuing.) To serve, remove the ribs from the foil; scrape off the crust and reserve. Reheat the ribs meat side down over a medium-low (350°F) direct gas or charcoal grill fire until nicely browned, 5 to 8 minutes. Flip the ribs and pat or sprinkle with about half of the reserved crust (discard the rest). Cook until hot, 3 to 4 minutes more. Cut between the ribs and serve sprinkled with any of the cornmeal crust that fell off while carving.
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grilled asian pork tenderloin with peanut sauce Serve with steamed jasmine or short-grain rice and stir-fried spinach or snow peas. Serves 4 to 5 1 cup light coconut milk ½ cup smooth peanut butter, preferably a natural variety ¼ cup soy sauce 3 Tbs. fresh lime juice 3 Tbs. dark brown sugar 2 large cloves garlic, minced (2½ tsp.) 2 tsp. ground coriander 2 small pork tenderloins (about 2 lb. total) Vegetable oil for the grill
In a large bowl, whisk the coconut milk, peanut butter, soy sauce, lime juice, brown sugar, garlic, and coriander to make a smooth sauce. Trim the pork of excess fat and silverskin. Butterfly the tenderloins by splitting each one lengthwise almost but not quite all the way through, so the halves remain attached. Open each tenderloin like a book, cover with plastic wrap, and pound to an even ½-inch thickness with a meat mallet or the bottom of a small skillet. Put the pork tenderloins in the bowl with the marinade and turn to
coat. Let marinate for 10 to 20 minutes (or up to several hours in the refrigerator). While the pork marinates, heat a gas grill with all burners on high. Clean and oil the grate. Remove the tenderloins from the marinade, letting excess marinade drip back into the bowl (don’t discard the marinade). Grill the tenderloins, covered, turning once, until just cooked through, 5 to 7 minutes total (cut into one to check). Transfer to a carving board and let rest for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, pour the marinade into a small saucepan and add 2 Tbs. water; bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat. If the sauce seems too thick, thin it with 1 or 2 tsp. water. Slice the pork and serve with the sauce on the side.
bourbon-and-vanilla-brined pork chops For even more smoky flavor, throw some hardwood chips that have been soaked in water for 30 minutes over the coals before grilling these chops. Grill a few halved, pitted, ripe peaches and serve them with the chops, if you like. Serves 4 FOR THE BRINE 1 oz. kosher salt (¼ cup if using Diamond Crystal; 2 Tbs. if using Morton) ¼ cup bourbon
1 Tbs. kosher salt
BRINE THE PORK CHOPS
MAKE THE SPICE RUB
1 Tbs. freshly ground black pepper
In a large mixing bowl, combine 2 cups warm water with the brine ingredients; stir until dissolved. Add 1 cup ice to the bowl and stir to quickly cool the brine to at least 45°F. Put the chops in a 9x9-inch (or similar size) baking dish and pour the brine over the chops. They should be submerged. Cover with plastic wrap and put on a tray (in case of spills); refrigerate for 3 to 4 hours (3 hours for thinner chops, 4 hours for thicker ones). Remove the chops from the brine (discard the brine), and pat them dry.
Combine all of the spice rub ingredients in a small bowl or jar. (The spice rub will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 months.)
2 tsp. ground dried sage 1½ tsp. dry mustard
3 Tbs. dark brown sugar
1 tsp. ground cayenne
2 Tbs. unsulfured molasses
1 tsp. ground cumin
2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
1 tsp. ground coriander
4 bone-in pork rib chops (1¼ to 1½ inches thick; 2 to 3 lb. total) FOR THE SPICE RUB 1 Tbs. sweet Hungarian paprika 1 Tbs. dark brown sugar
¼ tsp. ground ginger ��� tsp. ground cinnamon
GRILL THE CHOPS
Prepare a gas or charcoal grill fire for indirect cooking over medium-high heat (400°F to 450°F). Sprinkle 2 to 3 Tbs. total of the spice rub generously over all sides of the chops. Grill the chops over direct heat, flipping once, until dark brown grill marks form on both sides, about 2 minutes per side (move them to indirect heat if any flare-ups occur). Once the chops are well marked, move them to the cooler side of the grill , cover, and cook until their internal temperature registers 140°F to 145°F on an instant-read thermometer, 4 to 6 minutes more per side. Transfer the chops to a serving platter, tent loosely with foil, and let rest for 5 minutes before serving.
It helps to brine pork before grilling it. It’s a mild, lean meat that needs the extra flavor and moisture that brining provides.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 39
PORK
north carolina–style pulled pork Slow-barbecued pork, topped with a vinegar and pepper sauce, is characteristic of North Carolina. Makes 8 to 10 sandwiches 1 medium-size pork butt, Boston butt, or untrimmed end-cut pork shoulder roast (7 to 9 lb.), preferably bone-in (see Test Kitchen, p. 110) Olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Lexington-Style Barbecue Sauce (recipe at right) or your choice of sauce or a rub and a mop Plain white hamburger buns or other rolls (such as Portuguese or Kaiser) for serving North Carolina Coleslaw (optional; recipe at far right)
grilled pork chops with sweet-and-sour onions Garlic bread drizzled with a bit of olive oil is the perfect accompaniment. Serves 4 4 ¾-inch-thick bone-in pork loin chops (1¾ to 2 lb.) ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1½ lb. red onions (about 3 medium), peeled and cut into ¼- to ½-inch-thick disks ½ cup red-wine vinegar 1 Tbs. granulated sugar
Prepare a medium-high fire on a gas or charcoal grill. In a medium bowl, toss the pork chops with 1 Tbs. of the oil, half of the thyme, 1 tsp. salt, and ½ tsp. pepper. Put the onions on a large plate and sprinkle with 2 Tbs. of the oil and 1½ tsp. salt. In a small bowl, whisk the vinegar, sugar, and the remaining thyme. Grill the onions, covered, flipping once, until crisptender, 5 to 6 minutes per side. Return to the plate. Grill the pork, covered, flipping once, until firm to the touch and just cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer the pork to a la rge platter, brush with some of the vinegar mixture, and tent loosely with foil. Heat the remaining 1 Tbs. oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until it’s shimmering hot. Add the onions and the remaining vinegar mixture and cook, stirring, until they absorb all of the liquid and take on a browned, glazed appearance, 3 to 4 minutes. Serve the pork chops with the onions.
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Set up a charcoal or gas grill for indirect cooking (see p. 11). Pat the pork dry with paper towels. Don’t trim any excess fat off the meat; this fat will baste the meat and keep it moist during cooking. With a pastry brush or your hands, brush or rub the pork with a thin coating of olive oil. Season generously with salt and pepper (unless using a rub). Set the pork aside on a tray until ready to cook. Position the pork in the center of the cooking grate, fat side up. There’s no need to turn the meat during cooking. Cook slowly with the lid closed (air vents should be open on a charcoal grill) on low heat (325°F to 350°F) until an instant-read meat thermometer inserted into the middle of the pork registers 190°F to 200°F, about 4 hours. The meat should be very tender and easy to pull apart. (If using a bone-in cut, you’ll be able to wiggle the bone free.) Let the meat rest on a cutting board or clean tray until just cool enough to handle, about 20 minutes. (It will pull apart most easily while still somewhat hot.) Pull the meat from the skin, bone, and fat ( use rubber food-service gloves for easiest handling). Set aside any crisp bits of fat that have completely rendered and look almost burned. (In the barbecue circuit, these crisp pieces are known as “the burnt ends” and are the most coveted part of the pork.) Working quickly, shred the chunks of meat with two forks by crossing the forks and “pulling” the meat from the roast into small pieces. Alternately, you can chop the meat with a cleaver or shred it by hand. Put the meat in a large bowl. Chop
the reserved crisp bits of fat with a chef’s knife and mix them into the pulled pork. While the meat is still warm, combine with the barbecue sauce to moisten and season the meat, about 1½ cups. The pork can be made in advance up to this point; see the instructions at right for reheating. Serve the pork on white hamburger buns. If using the Lexington-Style Barbecue Sauce, top the pork with North Carolina Coleslaw. Serve with more barbecue sauce on the side, if you like.
north carolina coleslaw Yields about 6 cups 1½ cups Lexington-Style Barbecue Sauce (see the recipe at left) 6 cups (1¾ lb.) finely chopped or grated green cabbage (from about 1 small cabbage)
In a large bowl, mix the sauce and cabbage. Let sit for at least 2 hours and up to overnight for flavors to blend, stirring occasionally. Refrigerate if not using the same d ay.
lexington-style barbecue sauce Yields about 4 cups 3 cups cider vinegar ¾ cup tomato ketchup 6 Tbs. light brown sugar 3 Tbs. granulated sugar 1½ Tbs. kosher salt 2¼ tsp. finely ground white pepper 2¼ tsp. red chile flakes ¾ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
make the pork ahead and reheat To reheat pulled pork, put the meat in a 9x13-inch Pyrex baking dish or disposable foil pan, moisten the meat with more barbecue sauce, and cover tightly with foil. Heat in a 250°F oven for 30 to 40 minutes, stirring occasionally. Leftovers can also be heated in the microwave on medium in a Pyrex dish.
In a medium bowl, whisk all the ingredients together and let sit for at least 10 minutes. The longer the sauce sits, the hotter it gets, as the vinegar brings out the heat of the chile flakes (so start with the amount of chile flakes called for and then add more to taste). Pour the sauce in a vinegar style bottle so you can pour and store it easily. It will keep almost indefinitely in the refrigerator. Return to room temperature before using.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 41
PORK
cuban pork with mojo (lechon asado con mojo) The pork needs at least 8 hours to marinate in the mojo and about that long to cook, but the results—unbelievably tender meat and crisp, crackly skin—are worth the wait. Serves 10 FOR THE MOJO 50 peeled cloves garlic (see p. 108) ��� oz. kosher salt (1½ Tbs. Diamond Crystal or 1 Tbs. Morton) 1 Tbs. freshly cracked black pepper 1 Tbs. dried oregano ¼ cup plus 2 Tbs. fresh orange juice (from 1 medium) ¼ cup fresh lemon juice (from 1 large) 2 Tbs. fresh lime juice (from 1 small) FOR THE PORK 1 6- to 8-lb. bone-in, skin-on pork shoulder 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced ��� cup olive oil ��� cup fresh lemon juice (from 1½ lemons) 3 large lemons, cut into wedges Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon MAKE THE MOJO
Combine the garlic, salt, pepper, and oregano in a food processor and pulse until finely chopped. Transfer to a medium bowl and whisk in the juices. Reserve ½ cup of the mojo and refrigerate until ready to serve.
Toward the end of the pork’s cooking, combine the reserved ½ cup mojo, the onion, olive oil, and lemon juice in a 2-quart saucepan. Cook, stirring often, over medium-low heat, until the onion softens and the flavors meld, about 8 minutes. (The mojo can sit at room temperature for a few hours.) SERVE THE PORK
Transfer the pork to a cutting b oard. Remove the skin. Tent just the pork with foil and let sit for up to an hour before serving. Scrape off and discard the soft fat underneath the skin, then cut the crispy part (the crackling) into bite-size pieces. Transfer to a small platter, add a few lemon wedges, and serve the chicharrones (cracklings) as a n appetizer. Meanwhile, use your hands to break the meat into chunks and transfer to a large bowl. Pour about ��� cup of the mojo over it and toss to coat. Transfer to a large platter along with the remaining lemon wedges. Sprinkle with the sea salt and serve, passing the remaining mojo around the table with it.
MARINATE AND GRILL THE PORK
Use a paring knife to make 20 deep slits all over the pork. Using your fingers, push the remaining mojo into the slits. Wrap the pork well in plastic wrap, place skin side up on a rimmed baking sheet or platter, and refrigerate for at least 8 and up to 24 hours. Let the pork sit at room temperature for 1 hour before cooking. Meanwhile, set up a charcoal or gas grill for indirect cooking between 325°F and 350°F; if using a charcoal grill, bank the lit, ashed-over coals to one side of the grill. Cover the grill, and adjust the vents as needed to reach the temperature range. For a gas grill, cover the grill, turn off one or more of the burners, and adjust the active burner(s) to reach the temperature range. Pat the pork skin dry with paper towels. Put the pork, skin side up, on the cooler part of the grill and cook, rotating (but not flipping) every couple of hours, until the skin is crisp and an instant-read thermometer registers 190°F to 200°F in the center of the pork, 6 to 8 hours.
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bonus crispy appetizer After many hours on the grill, the pork shoulder develops a crisp skin that’s served as an appetizer called chicharrones.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 43
PORK
rum-glazed pork skewers with coconut rice A Caribbean-accented spice rub and glaze boost the flavor of quick-cooking pork tenderloin. Rice cooked with coconut milk adds to the tropical feel of the dish. Serves 4 3 Tbs. unsalted butter 1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger 1 cup jasmine rice ¾ cup well-shaken unsweetened coconut milk Kosher salt ��� cup dark rum 3 Tbs. packed dark brown sugar 2 medium limes, finely grated to yield 1 tsp. zest and squeezed to yield ¼ cup juice 2 Tbs. vegetable oil; more as needed 1 tsp. ground allspice ��� tsp. ground cayenne Freshly ground black pepper 1 1- to 1¼-lb. pork tenderloin, cut into 1-inch cubes 1 medium red bell pepper, cut into 1-inch squares 1 red onion, cut into 1-inch pieces Lime wedges for serving (optional)
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Melt 1 Tbs. of the butter in a 2-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the ginger and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the rice and stir until well coated. Add the coconut milk, 1½ cups water, and ¾ tsp. salt; bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook until the liquid is absorbed, about 15 minutes. Fluff with a fork, cover, and set aside. Meanwhile, combine the rum, brown sugar, 2 Tbs. of the li me juice, and the remaining 2 Tbs. butter in a 1-quart saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook until syrupy, about 5 minutes. Stir in ��� tsp. salt and remove from the heat. In a medium bowl, combine the remaining 2 Tbs. lime juice with the oil, allspice, cayenne, 1½ tsp. salt, and ½ tsp. black
pepper. Add the pork and toss to coat. Thread the pork, bell pepper, and onions onto four 12-inch metal skewers, alternating the meat and vegetables. Prepare a medium-high (400°F) gas or charcoal grill fire or heat a large grill pan over medium-high heat. Oil the grate or pan. Grill the skewers until seared on all sides, about 4 minutes total. Brush the skewers with the glaze and grill, turning occasionally, until the pork is browned on the outside but still slightly pink in the center, 2 to 4 minutes more. Add the zest to the rice and fluff. Brush the skewers with any additional glaze and serve with the rice and lime wedges, if you like.
herb-rubbed pork spareribs with honey-lemon glaze Many cooks boil or bake spareribs before grilling to render their tough meat tender, but that method can leave a lot of flavor behind in the pot or the baking pan. Instead, if you grill them in foil so that they cook quickly in their own juice, all the fl avor is trapped inside the foil. Finishing the ribs with a simple glaze gives them extra flavor and crisp edges. This recipe can be made with standard spareribs or with St. Louis-cut spareribs—the former may take slightly more time to cook. Serves 6 FOR THE RUB 1 Tbs. plus 2 tsp. kosher salt 1 Tbs. crumbled dried rosemary 1 Tbs. rubbed (dried) sage 2 tsp. fennel seed, coarsely crushed (preferably in a mortar) 2 tsp. dried thyme 1½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 1½ tsp. granulated garlic 1½ tsp. granulated onion FOR THE GLAZE ½ cup honey 2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice FOR THE RIBS 6½ lb. pork spareribs, membrane removed (see p. 109), cut between the ribs into 4 or 5 smaller slabs Kosher salt MAKE THE RUB AND GLAZE
Whisk the rub ingredients together in a small bowl. Whisk the glaze ingredients together in another small bowl. Set both aside. SEASON THE RIBS
Sprinkle the spice rub evenly on both sides of the ribs. Put a rib slab on one half of a large double thickness of heavy-duty aluminum foil, fold the other half of the foil over the ribs, and fold the edges tightly closed on all three sides to prevent leakage. Repeat with the remaining ribs. Put the foil-wrapped ribs on a large rimmed baking sheet and let stand while the grill heats. PREPARE THE GRILL
Prepare a charcoal or gas grill fire for direct grilling over medium (350°F) heat.
GRILL THE RIBS
FINISH THE RIBS
Arrange the foil-wrapped ribs on the grill grate in a single layer and cover the grill. Have a spray bottle of water ready for any flare-ups, and grill for 45 minutes. Carefully turn the packets over, taking care not to pierce them, or the juices will run out. (If using a charcoal grill, add about 1 quart charcoal to the coals, if necessary, to maintain the temperature.) Cover and cook until the meat has pulled away from the ends of the rib bones and is very tender when pierced with the tip of a knife (carefully open the foil to check), about 45 minutes more. Open the foil and transfer the ribs to a platter. Add any juice to the glaze. (The ribs can be prepared to this point up to 1½ hours ahead, covered loosely with foil, and stored at cool room temperature.)
For a charcoal grill, if necessary, add more charcoal to the coals to maintain a temperature of 350°F. Clean and oil the grill grate. Arrange the ribs on the grill grate and brush with half of the glaze. Cover and cook until sizzling, 3 to 5 minutes. Flip and b rush with more glaze. Cover and cook until sizzling, 3 to 5 minutes. Flip again and cook for 2 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board, let rest for about 5 minutes, and then cut between the bones into individual ribs. Transfer to a pl atter, season lightly with salt, and serve with any remaining glaze for dipping.
Tex-Mex Beer-Can Chicken, p. 48
Chicken Chicken is on our menu all summer long, dressed up with everything from lively spice combinations and marinades to sweet, tangy glazes and sauces.
Tex-Mex Beer-Can Chicken, p. 48 Barbecued Chicken, p. 49 Tuscan Grilled Chicken under a Brick, p. 50 Chinese Grilled Chicken and Bibb Lettuce “Wraps,” p. 51 Grilled Chicken Tandoori, p. 52 Island-Spiced, Pineapple-Glazed Grilled Chicken Breasts, p. 52 Grilled Chicken Tacos, p. 54
CHICKEN
tex-mex beer-can chicken Use any type of beer (or other liquid) you like to make this ultra-juicy chicken. You can also use either a gas or charcoal grill, but charcoal will produce a smokier flavor. Serves 6 1 cup mesquite chips
on a solid surface and lower the chicken cavity over the can 2 . Rub the chicken all over with the oil. Let sit at room
1 tsp. granulated sugar 1 tsp. smoked paprika 1 tsp. ground cumin 1 tsp. pure ancho chile powder ¾ tsp. pure chipotle chile powder ½ tsp. dried oregano Kosher salt 1 4½-lb. chicken, giblets and excess fat removed 1 12-oz. can beer, such as Budweiser, at room temperature 2 Tbs. canola oil
Soak the mesquite chips in water for at least 30 minutes. In a small bowl, combine the sugar, smoked paprika, cumin, both chile powders, oregano, and 1½ tsp. salt. Pat the chicken dry with paper towels. Using your fingers, gently separate the skin from the meat, taking care not to tear the skin. Spread half of the rub under the skin, massaging it directly onto the meat. Massage the remaining rub all over the chicken skin 1 . Open the can of beer and pour out (or drink) about two-thirds. Using a church-key-style can opener, make two more holes in the top of the can. Place the beer can
temperature while you prepare a gas or charcoal grill fire for indirect cooking over medium heat (350°F to 375°F). Drain and scatter the wood chips directly over the coals or put them in the smoker box of a gas grill, following manufacturer’s instructions. If using a gas grill without a smoker box, wrap the chips in a foil packet, pierce it in several spots, and lay the packet over a lit burner. When the chips begin to smoke, transfer the chicken on the can to the cooler side of the grill, balancing it on its two legs and the can like a tripod. Grill with the lid closed until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the breast (not touching the bone) reaches 165°F, 1¼ to 1½ hours. (Halfway through cooking, turn the chicken 180 degrees to ensure even cooking. Cover the neck and wings with foil if they begin to brown too quickly.) Remove the chicken from the grill 3 and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes. Carefully remove the beer can from the chicken with two sets of tongs—one to hold the chicken by the neck and one to hold the can. Twist the can back and forth until it comes loose. Carve the chicken, and serve.
beer-can chicken basics
1
Massaging a smoky, chilepacked spice rub under and over the skin gives the chicken a Southwestern flavor accent.
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2
3
Cooking the chicken vertically To remove the chicken from on a beer can achieves a crisp the grill, grab it by its neck with bronze skin all the way around, tongs, then tilt the chicken while the vapors from the just enough to slide a metal slowly evaporating beer keep spatula under the beer can. the meat juicy. Transfer the chicken to a tray, supporting it with the spatula and tongs.
barbecued chicken Hickory chips give the chicken a robustly smoky flavor, while applewood is a bit milder. Substitute any chicken par ts you’d like. You can make the sauce up to a week ahead. Or, if you have a favorite barbecue sauce, feel free to use it instead. Serves 6 FOR THE SAUCE 1 cup unsweetened apple juice ½ cup cider vinegar 1 cup ketchup 2 Tbs. Dijon mustard 2 Tbs. pure maple syrup 2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce ½ tsp. hot sauce, such as Tabasco ½ tsp. kosher salt ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper FOR THE RUB 1 Tbs. light brown sugar 2 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. smoked paprika 1 tsp. chili powder 1 tsp. granulated garlic ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper FOR THE CHICKEN 6 chicken thighs 6 chicken drumsticks 2 cups hickory or applewood chips, soaked in water for at least 30 minutes and drained
MAKE THE SAUCE AND RUB
In a medium saucepan, boil the apple juice and vinegar over medium-high heat until reduced by half, 5 to 7 minutes. Lower the heat to medium low and add the remaining sauce ingredients. Simmer for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season to taste with salt and pepper and set aside. In a small bowl, mix the rub ingredients. GRILL THE CHICKEN
Trim any excess fat from the chicken, and season the chicken evenly with all of the rub. Prepare the grill for indirect cooking over medium-low heat (300°F to 350°F): For a charcoal grill, ignite a chimney starter full of lump charcoal and burn until the edges of the coals look ashy, about 15 minutes. Carefully dump out the coals and use tongs to spread them over half of the charcoal grate. Put the cooking grate in place, close the lid, and let the coals burn down to about 350°F. For a gas grill, turn all the burners on high and close the lid to heat the grill. Then turn off all but one burner to create a cool zone and adj ust that burner to maintain a temperature of 300°F to 350°F.
Brush the cooking grate clean. Scatter the wood chips over the lit charcoal, or for a gas grill put them in a smoker box, following the manufacturer’s instructions. When you see smoke pouring out of the grill, arrange the chicken pieces skin side up over the cooler part of the grill. Close the lid and smoke the chicken for 45 minutes. (For a charcoal grill, if the temperature drops below 300°F, remove the chicken and scatter a layer of new coals on top of the old ones.) Move the chicken to the hot side of the grill, and grill, uncovered, turning and moving the chicken regularly to manage flare-ups, until lightly charred on both sides, 4 to 5 minutes. Move the chicken back to the cooler side of the grill, brush with a thin layer of sauce, close the lid, and cook until an instant-read thermometer inserted in a thick part of the chicken registers 170°F, 10 to 15 minutes, brushing occasionally with more sauce. (The drumsticks usually take a little longer than the thighs.) Serve hot or at room temperature, with the remaining sauce on the side.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 49
CHICKEN
tuscan grilled chicken under a brick Here, skin-on, bone-in breasts are grilled, rather than the skinless, boneless alternative. As the skin crisps, it releases fat, which bastes the meat and prevents it from drying out. The bones keep things juicy by partially buffering the meat from the heat of the grill. Serves 4 1 small clove garlic 1 Tbs. fresh sage ½ Tbs. fresh rosemary ¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 8-oz. bone-in, skin-on chicken breast halves Extra-virgin olive oil 1 cup wood chips, preferably oak, unsoaked Vegetable oil for the grill 4 bricks wrapped with heavy-duty aluminum foil 1 medium lemon, sliced into 4 wedges, for garnish
In a food processor, pulse the garlic, sage, rosemary, pepper flakes, 1½ Tbs. salt, and 1 tsp. pepper until finely chopped.
Pat the chicken breasts dry with paper towels. Lightly brush both sides of the chicken with olive oil and season each breast with 1 tsp. of the herbed salt. Let stand at room temperature while preparing the grill. Prepare a gas or charcoal grill fire for direct grilling over medium heat (350°F). If using a charcoal grill, sprinkle the wood chips over the coals. Replace the grill grate. If using a gas grill, use two layers of heavyduty aluminum foil to make a V-shaped packet to hold the wood chips. Set the foil packet between two burners and add the chips to the foil packet. Replace the grill grate. Clean the grate with a wire brush and, using tongs, wipe the grate with a paper towel or cloth dipped in oil.
Arrange the chicken breasts skin side down on the grill on a diagonal to the grate. Put a brick on top of each chicken breast. Grill (covered if using a gas grill) until the skin is crisp and golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. If flare-ups occur, move the chicken to a different part of the grill. Using grill mitts or tongs, remove the bricks, flip the chicken over, and replace the bricks. Continue to grill (covered if using a gas grill) until an instant-read thermometer inserted in a thick part of a breast reads 165°F, 8 to 10 minutes more. Transfer the chicken breasts to a platter or plates and drizzle with additional olive oil. Serve with the lemon wedges and the remaining herb salt on the side.
grill breasts beneath a brick Both the Tuscans and the Romans claim to have invented the method for grilling chicken under a brick to keep it juicy and crisp. Although this technique, called pollo al mattone, is traditionally used with a spatchcocked whole chicken, it works well for chicken breasts, which are notorious for drying out when exposed to the high heat of the grill. The weight of the brick presses the meat into the grill for faster, more even cooking, excellent crisping, and gorgeous grill marks. It also works as a cover for the meat, keeping it moist. In Italy, pollo al mattone is often cooked over a wood fire; you can re-create a bit of that smokiness by adding wood chips to the grill. Special equipment needed: Four bricks wrapped in heavy-duty aluminum foil; wood chips, preferably oak.
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chinese grilled chicken and bibb lettuce “wraps” Use the biggest outer leaves from your lettuce, add cilantro and mint, and set out peanuts, scallions, rice noodles or rice, and the dipping sauce. Add cucumbers or fresh chiles, if you like, and double or triple the recipe for a party. Serves 4 5 Tbs. low-sodium soy sauce 2 Tbs. plus 2 tsp. fresh lime juice 3 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro, plus 20 more short sprigs 1 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. minced fresh ginger 1 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. minced fresh garlic 1 Tbs. light brown sugar 1 Tbs. peanut oil ¾ tsp. Asian chili-garlic paste 2 lb. boneless skinless chicken thighs, trimmed ¼ cup thinly sliced scallions (any part) 2 tsp. oyster sauce 20 to 24 medium or large Bibb or Boston lettuce leaves, washed and dried (from about 3 heads lettuce) 20 fresh mint, basil, or Thai basil leaves 1½ cups cooked white rice, hot or reheated if leftover, or 4 to 5 oz. rice noodles, cooked, rinsed, and drained 2 medium carrots, julienned or coarsely shredded ¼ cup chopped roasted peanuts
In a large nonreactive bowl, combine 3 Tbs. soy sauce, 2 Tbs. lime j uice, the chopped cilantro, 2 tsp. ginger, 2 tsp. garlic, 2 tsp. brown sugar, the peanut oil, and ½ tsp. chiligarlic paste. Mix well. Add the chicken thighs, toss, and let sit for 30 to 45 minutes, tossing occasionally. In a small bowl, combine the remaining 2 Tbs. soy sauce, 2 tsp. lime juice, 2 tsp. ginger, 2 tsp. garlic, 1 tsp. brown sugar, 1 Tbs. of the scalli ons, the oyster sauce, and 2 tsp. water. Mix well and put in a little serving bowl. Arrange the lettuce leaves, herb leaves, and cilantro sprigs on a platter. Put the rice or noodles, carrots, peanuts, and the remaining sliced scallions in small serving bowls or on a serving platter. Heat a gas grill to medium. Arrange the chicken thighs on the grill and cook, covered, until grill marks form on the first side, about 3 minutes. Using tongs, move the pieces on a slight angle a nd continue cooking, covered, for 2 minutes to form crosshatch marks. Flip the pieces over and cook for 3 to 4 more minutes, or until the thighs are shrunken and cooked through. Transfer to a cutting board, let rest for a couple of minutes, and cut lengthwise into thin strips. Arrange the chicken on a serving platter and bring all the components to the table for everyone to assemble their “wraps” as desired.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 51
CHICKEN
island-spiced, pineapple-glazed grilled chicken breasts Here’s a twist on traditional American barbecued chicken. The seasoning is a rub similar to Jamaica’s jerk, and the “sauce” is a rum and pineapple glaze. Serves 4 FOR THE RUB AND THE CHICKEN 1 Tbs. packed dark brown sugar 1½ tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. ground coriander ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper ½ tsp. dried thyme ½ tsp. onion powder ½ tsp. ground allspice ½ tsp. ground cinnamon ¼ to ½ tsp. cayenne
grilled chicken tandoori Plain yogurt is the base for the chicken marinade and keeps the meat moist and tender. Marinate the chicken for a day or two in the fridge for the most flavorful results. Chipotle powder, not typically used in Tandoori recipes, adds a welcome touch of heat and smokiness. For a well-rounded meal, serve the chicken with grilled peppers and onions and steamed basmati rice. Serves 4 4 lb. bone-in, skinless chicken parts, rinsed and patted dry 1 cup plain yogurt 2 Tbs. tomato paste 2 Tbs. minced fresh ginger 2 medium cloves garlic, minced (about 1½ tsp.) 1½ Tbs. curry powder 1 tsp. chipotle powder Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Vegetable oil for the grill 2 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro 1 lime, cut into wedges
Put the chicken in a large bowl. In a small bowl, mix the yogurt with the tomato paste, ginger, garlic, curry powder, chipotle powder, 1½ tsp. salt , and ¾ tsp. pepper. Toss with the chicken. Cover and refrigerate for up to 2 d ays, or let sit at room temperature while the grill heats. Prepare a medium charcoal or gas grill fire. Clean and oil the grill grates. Grill the chicken, covered, until it has good grill marks, about 5 minutes. Turn and continue cooking until the chicken is browned all over and cooked through (make a nick in a couple of the thicker pieces with a paring knife), about 15 to 20 minutes total. Set on a platter, sprinkle with the cilantro, and serve with the l ime wedges for squeezing.
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4 boneless skinless chicken breast halves (6 to 8 oz. each), trimmed, rinsed, and patted dry 1½ Tbs. vegetable oil, plus more for the grill 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 scallions (white and green parts), minced FOR THE PINEAPPLE-RUM GLAZE ¼ cup salted butter ¼ cup packed dark brown sugar ¼ cup dark rum ¼ cup pineapple juice MAKE THE RUB AND PREPARE THE CHICKEN
Combine the brown sugar, salt, coriander, pepper, thyme, onion powder, allspice, cinnamon, and cayenne in a small bowl and stir to mix. Set the breasts in a baking dish and drizzle with the oil, rubbing it over the meat on both sides. Sprinkle the rub, garlic, and scallions on both sides of the
chicken, patting the seasonings into the meat with your fingers. Refrigerate for 1 hour while you make the glaze and prepare the grill. MAKE THE GLAZE
Combine the butter, brown sugar, rum, and pineapple juice in a heavy saucepan. Boil until syrupy, 7 to 10 minutes over medium-high heat. Don’t worry if the mixture starts to separate. Whisk it vigorously to combine. GRILL THE CHICKEN
Heat a gas grill to high or prepare a hot charcoal fire. Scrub and oil the grill grate. Arrange the chicken breasts on the grill at a 45-degree angle to the bars of the grate. Grill until the chicken has grill marks, about 2 minutes, and then rotate the breasts 90 degrees (to get a crosshatch of grill marks) and continue grilling for 2 to 4 minutes. Flip the chicken breasts and generously brush the cooked tops with glaze. Cook the second side the same way, for 4 to 6 minutes. Flip the chicken breasts again, brush with the glaze, and grill until the breasts are firm to the touch, another 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the breasts to a pl atter. Serve at once, drizzled with any remaining glaze.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 53
CHICKEN
oaxaca cheese Oaxaca cheese, a soft cow’s milk variety, is most widely available in supermarkets in the Southwest, but it’s becoming more available in markets across the country. If you can’t find Oaxaca, mozzarella makes the best substitute.
grilled chicken tacos Soft corn tortillas have a more interesting texture and distinctive flavor than their flour counterparts, but feel free to use the type you prefer. Makes 12 to 16 tacos; serves 4 to 6 FOR THE MARINATED CHICKEN ½ cup fresh lime juice (from about 2 limes) 1 Tbs. ancho chile powder 2 cloves garlic, minced (about 2 tsp.) 1½ tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. dried oregano 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1 cup vegetable oil 1¼ lb. boneless, skinless chicken breasts FOR THE FILLING
1 cup finely chopped yellow or white onion ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro Juice of 1 lime Kosher salt ½ cup grated Oaxaca cheese or freshly grated mozzarella (optional) FOR SERVING 12 to 16 corn tortillas (5 to 6 inches wide), warmed (see the sidebar on the facing page) Tomatillo Salsa (see the recipe on the facing page)
1 Tbs. vegetable oil; more if sautéing the chicken
Pico de Gallo (see the recipe on the facing page)
3 slices bacon, finely chopped
Guacamole (see the recipe on the facing page)
1 cup cored, seeded, and finely chopped fresh poblano chiles (about 2 poblanos) or 2 fresh jalapeños and ½ green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and finely chopped
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MARINATE THE CHICKEN
In a medium bowl, mix the lime juice, chile powder, garlic, salt,
oregano, and pepper; whisk in the oil. Add the chicken, cover, and marinate in the refrigerator for 1 to 1½ hours. MAKE THE FILLING
Prepare a medium-hot fire on a gas or charcoal grill or set a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat for 1½ minutes. Remove the chicken from the marinade, shaking off any excess. Grill the chicken (or sear it in the skillet with 1 Tbs. oil), flipping after 4 minutes, until it’s just firm to the touch and cooked through, about 9 minutes. Let the chicken cool and then chop it into very small pieces. Heat a skillet over medium heat, add 1 Tbs. oil and the bacon, and cook, stirring frequently, until the bacon just begins to
brown, about 6 minutes. Turn the heat to medium high, add the chiles and onion, and cook, stirring frequently, until they begin to soften, about 4 minutes. Add the chopped chicken, cilantro, and lime juice and stir constantly until the chicken is hot. Season with salt to taste. Sprinkle the cheese (if using) over the top, take the pan off the heat, and let the cheese melt. To serve, set the skillet with the filling on a trivet on the table next to the hot tortillas, tomatillo salsa, pico de gallo, and guacamole so each person can assemble his or her own tacos.
how to warm corn tortillas so they stay soft and flexible Corn tortillas are delicate and deteriorate quickly, so buy them as fresh as you can find them (many groceries carry them, often in the dairy case). To warm and soften them, heat one at a time on an ungreased griddle or skillet, or in a steamer basket over simmering water. If you’re making tacos for a crowd, heat all of them in the oven at the same time. Wrap a stack of tortillas in a damp dishtowel, wrap the whole package in aluminum foil, and heat in a 300°F oven. (If possible, wrap two or three smaller bundles, rather than one large
bundle, and heat them all at the same time.) Although the outside tortillas may get a bit soggy, this method keeps the rest of them from drying out. You can also heat tortillas successfully in the microwave—wrap a stack of them in a damp dishtowel and microwave until warm. Whichever method you use, bring the bundle of tortillas, still wrapped and nestled in a serving container, to the table so that they stay warm and flexible. Corn tortillas dry out and stiffen quickly.
tomatillo salsa
pico de gallo
guacamole
This salsa is best ser ved within an hour.
This salsa is best ser ved within an hour.
Yields about 1 cup
Yields about 1½ cups
Guacamole is best made as close to serving time as possible. Yields 1½ cups
½ lb. tomatillos, husks removed 1 large or 1½ small serrano chiles, cored, seeded, and coarsely chopped 2 Tbs. coarsely chopped white onion 2 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro ¾ tsp. kosher salt ¼ tsp. finely chopped garlic
Cut the tomatillos into quarters. Put them in a blender, along with the chiles, onion, cilantro, salt, and garlic. Pulse, scraping the sides of the blender with a rubber spatula after a few seconds, until the ingredients are very finely chopped and combined (the salsa should be somewhat smooth, but still have some texture), 30 to 60 seconds. Serve with the taco recipe of your choice.
¼ cup coarsely chopped white onion
2 ripe avocados (about 6 oz. each)
¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
3 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro
3 fresh serrano or jalapeño chiles, cored, seeded, and coarsely chopped
2 Tbs. minced red onion
1½ ripe medium tomatoes, finely chopped Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Put the onion, cilantro, and chiles in a food processor and pulse until very finely chopped. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the tomatoes. Season with about ½ tsp. salt and ¼ tsp. pepper. Serve with the taco recipe of your choice.
2 Tbs. chopped Roma tomato 2 Tbs. fresh lime juice; more to taste Kosher salt
Halve and pit the avocados; scoop out their flesh into a large bowl. With a fork, mash the flesh into a coarse paste. Stir in the cilantro, onion, tomato, and lime juice. Season with ½ tsp. salt. Add more lime juice or salt to taste and serve with the taco recipe of your choice.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 55
Maple-Rosemary Salmon Skewers, p. 58
Seafood Here, fish and shellfish are grilled to perfection and topped with flavor-spiked sauces and butters.
Maple-Rosemary Salmon Skewers, p. 58 Swordfish with Black Olive and Mint Tapenade, p. 58 Yucatecan Grilled Fish Tacos, p. 60 Grilled Salmon Steaks with Sea Salt, Chile, and Lime Butter, p. 61 Grilled Salmon with Wasabi-Ginger Mayonnaise, p. 62 Fiesta Quinoa Salad with Grilled Shrimp, p. 63 Grilled Old Bay Shrimp with Lemony Horseradish Cocktail Sauce, p. 64 Grilled Tuna with Puttanesca Sauce, p. 65 Grilled Clams with Garlic-Butter Sauce, p. 66 Moroccan Pasta with Grilled Tuna, p. 66
SEAFOOD
maple-rosemary salmon skewers Mustard, maple, soy sauce, and rosemary make an irresistible sweet and tangy sauce for salmon. See the p hoto on p. 56. Serves 4 ��� cup pure maple syrup ¼ cup grainy Dijon mustard 1 Tbs. chopped fresh rosemary 1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice 2 tsp. soy sauce 1½ lb. skinless salmon fillet, pin bones removed, cut crosswise into strips Vegetable oil for the grill
Prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) charcoal or gas grill fire. In a small bowl, whisk the syrup, mustard, rosemary, lemon juice, and soy sauce. Set aside half of the sauce. Thread the salmon onto 10- to 12-inch metal skewers and brush the remaining sauce on the salmon. Set aside for 5 minutes. Oil the grill grate and grill the salmon, flipping once, until just cooked through, 4 to 8 minutes, depending on the thickness of the salmon. Drizzle with the sauce and serve.
swordfish with black olive and mint tapenade Make a double batch of this versatile black olive paste and use the extra as a dressing for pasta, sandwiches, or sautés, or as a garnish for grilled or roasted chicken. It’s paired with fish here, so anchovies (an ingredient in traditional tapenade) are omitted, but feel free to add them if you like. Serves 4 FOR THE TAPENADE 1 cup pitted Kalamata olives, coarsely chopped 2 oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, chopped 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 8 fresh basil leaves, torn into small pieces 2 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh mint 1 medium clove garlic, minced and mashed to a paste Large pinch of crushed red pepper flakes FOR THE SWORDFISH
skewer the salmon Try to thread the skewer straight down the middle of the salmon strip so it stays intact when it’s time to turn during grilling.
4 1-inch-thick swordfish fillets (6 to 7 oz. each) Kosher salt and coarsely cracked black pepper 1 Tbs. olive oil, plus more for the grill FOR SERVING 1 pint ripe grape or cherry tomatoes, halved 2 Tbs. chopped fresh mint 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt
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MAKE THE TAPENADE
Put the olives, sun-dried tomatoes, and oil in a food processor and pulse until the mixture forms a coarse paste. Pulse in the basil, mint, garlic, and red pepper flakes until combined and transfer to a medium bowl. GRILL THE SWORDFISH
Heat a gas grill to medium high or prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire. Clean and oil the grates to prevent sticking. Sprinkle the swordfish with 1 tsp. black pepper and ½ tsp. salt and drizzle with oil. Grill the fish until it has good grill marks, about 4 minutes. Using both tongs and a spatula, carefully turn the fish. Continue cooking until the other side has good grill marks and the fish is just cooked through, about 8 minutes. TO SERVE
Toss the tomatoes with the mint, oil, and ½ tsp. salt. Transfer the swordfish to a platter, spread generously with the tapenade, and top with a spoonful of the tomatoes (and their juices). Serve immediately.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 59
SEAFOOD
yucatecan grilled fish tacos
grill & shred
These bright, spicy tacos get their authentic flavor from a mixture of orange and lime juices (to replicate the bitter oranges grown in the Yucatán) and herbs and spices like Mexican oregano and annatto (see Test Kitchen, p. 108, for more information). Serves 4 to 6 FOR THE SALSA ½ cup fresh orange juice (2 medium oranges) ¼ cup fresh lime juice (2 medium limes) 1 small red onion, quartered lengthwise and very thinly sliced crosswise (about 1 cup)
The fish may need to be turned more than once in order to cook through without burning the outside.
Using two forks makes short work of shredding the fish. If the fish has skin, pull the meat away from the skin as you go.
½ habanero chile, seeded and minced (about 1½ tsp.) 1½ tsp. dried Mexican oregano 1 tsp. kosher salt 1 ripe mango, cut into medium dice (about 1 cup) FOR THE FISH ¼ tsp. cumin seeds 20 black peppercorns (¼ tsp.)
MAKE THE SALSA
Combine the orange and lime juices, onion, chile, oregano, and salt in a medium bowl. Cover and refrigerate until the onion begins to turn pink, about 2 hours. Stir in the mango. (The salsa will keep, refrigerated, for 1 day. Bring to room temperature before serving.)
4 allspice berries
MARINATE THE FISH
4 tsp. annatto seeds
Heat an 8-inch skillet over medium-low heat. Toast the cumin seeds, peppercorns, and allspice berries in the skillet, shaking occasionally, until fragrant and the cumin seeds are a shade darker, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a spice grinder or mortar. Add the annatto seeds, oregano, and cayenne and grind to a powder. Transfer to a small bowl. Mash the garlic with ½ tsp. salt into a paste with a mortar and pestle or the side of a chef's knife. Add to the spices along with the orange and lime juices and olive oil. Stir until well combined. Rub the marinade all over
½ tsp. dried Mexican oregano ��� tsp. cayenne 2 medium cloves garlic, minced Kosher salt 1 Tbs. fresh orange juice 1 Tbs. fresh lime juice 1 Tbs. olive oil; more as needed 1½ lb. mahimahi fillets or swordfish steaks (about 1 inch thick) FOR ASSEMBLY Vegetable oil for the grill 12 6-inch corn tortillas 2 ripe avocados, thinly sliced
the fish. Transfer to a plate and refrigerate, covered, for at least 30 minutes and up to 2 hours. ASSEMBLE THE TACOS
Prepare a medium (350°F to 375°F) gas or charcoal grill fire for direct grilling. Oil the grill grate. Working in batches, heat the tortillas in a single layer, turning once, until soft with light grill marks. Stack in a cloth-lined basket or plate and wrap to keep warm. Brush both sides of the fish with olive oil and lightly season with salt. Grill, turning once or twice until just cooked through (the tip of a knife inserted into the center should be warm when you touch it against your lip), 8 to 12 minutes total. Transfer the fish to a cutting board. Coarsely shred the fish with two forks. Distribute among the tortillas, and use a slotted spoon to top each with salsa. Garnish with the avocado slices and serve.
grilled salmon steaks with sea salt, chile, and lime butter Piment d’Espelette chile powder is perfect for this butter, though crushed red pep per flakes make a fine substitute. If you like salmon cooked medium rare, take it off the grill when it’s still a little translucent in the center. Serves 4 to 6 ¼ lb. (½ cup) unsalted butter, softened to room temperature 3 Tbs. finely chopped fresh cilantro 2 tsp. fresh lime juice 1 tsp. coriander seeds, lightly toasted and coarsely ground ¾ tsp. finely grated lime zest ½ tsp. coarse sea salt, like fleur de sel or sel gris ½ tsp. piment d’Espelette chile powder or red pepper flakes ¼ tsp. very finely chopped garlic 1½ Tbs. olive oil; more for brushing the grill 4 to 6 salmon steaks, 1¼ inches thick (6 to 8 oz. each) 1 tsp. kosher salt
Beat the butter in a small bowl with a spoon to loosen it. Mix in the cilantro, lime juice, coriander, lime zest, sea salt, chile powder, and garlic until combined. Scrape the butter onto a sheet of parchment or plastic wrap
and roll it into a neat log, using the parchment or plastic as a guide. Twist the ends and refrigerate the butter until firm, about 1 hour. Keep the butter chilled until ready to use. Clean and oil the grates on a gas grill and heat the grill to medium high, or prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire. Meanwhile, generously coat both sides of the fish with the oil and season both sides with salt. Let the fish sit at room temperature for 15 minutes (while the grill heats). Grill the steaks directly over the heat source (covered on a gas grill, uncovered on a charcoal grill), without touching, until they have good grill marks, 2 to 4 minutes. Flip the steaks and grill until the second sides have good grill marks and the fish is done to your liking, another 2 to 4 minutes. (Check for doneness by slicing into one of the thicker pieces.) Slice thin rounds from the butter log (shown at right) and top the salmon steaks with a couple of them the second they come off the grill.
flavored butter The magic of flavored butters (also known as compound butters) is that their essence remains safely locked up in a state of hibernation until the instant they’re melted onto whatever you’re cooking. Then, the flavors come pouring out. All it takes is a little pat or two of flavored butter and the simplest of meals becomes special.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 61
SEAFOOD
grilled salmon with wasabi-ginger mayonnaise You can find wasabi paste and powder at Asian groceries, or try the Asian section of your supermarket. Serves 4 1½ limes ½ cup mayonnaise 1½ Tbs. wasabi paste; more to taste 2 tsp. finely grated fresh ginger Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 6-oz. skinless salmon fillets Vegetable oil for the grill
Prepare a medium-hot grill fire (be sure the grill grate has been scrubbed clean with a wire brush). Cut the half lime i nto four wedges and set aside. Finely grate the zest from the whole lime. Cut the zested lime in half and squeeze the juice from one half into a small bowl (save the other half for another use). In a medium bowl, combine 1 tsp. of the lime juice with the lime zest, mayonnaise, wasabi paste, ginger, and ¼ tsp. salt. Stir to combine. Taste and add more wasabi paste if you’d like a zippier flavor.
Run your finger along each salmon fillet to feel for tiny bones; use tweezers or needlenose pliers to pull out any that you find. Season the fillets lightly with salt and pepper. Spoon about 2 Tbs. of the mayonnaise mixture onto the salmon fillets and refrigerate the rest. With your hands, spread the mayonnaise in a thin layer over all sides of the fillets. When the grill is ready, oil the grill grate using tongs and a paper towel dipped in oil. Grill the salmon until crisp and slightly charred on one side, about 4 minutes. Turn and continue to grill until the salmon is just cooked through, another 3 to 6 minutes. Serve the salmon topped with a dollop of the mayonnaise and a lime wedge on the side. Pass the remaining mayonnaise at the table.
turn powdered wasabi into paste Also known as Japanese horseradish, wasabi is a member of the mustard family. If you have a choice, powdered wasabi is the better option: It has more of a kick than the commercial paste, which is primarily available as a convenience. To turn powdered wasabi into wasabi paste, mix equal parts powder and tepid water and then let stand for at least 15 minutes to let the flavor develop. Buy wasabi in the smallest quantity available because, like dried spices, its potency dissipates over time.
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fiesta quinoa salad with grilled shrimp Studded with black beans, bell pepper, and corn, this colorful grain salad can also be paired with grilled halloumi or tofu for a vegetarian meal. Tasty at any temperature, it’s perfect for picnics and barbecues. Serves 4 1 cup white quinoa, rinsed 4 Tbs. olive oil 3 Tbs. fresh lime juice 2 medium cloves garlic, mashed to a paste 1 tsp. ground cumin
If using wooden skewers, soak them in water for 30 minutes before grilling.
½ tsp. dried oregano Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 lb. extra-jumbo (16 to 20 per lb.) peeled, deveined shrimp 2 large ears corn 1 15-oz. can black beans, drained and rinsed 1 medium red bell pepper, finely diced 7 medium scallions, thinly sliced ¼ cup cilantro leaves (optional)
Prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. In a 2-quart saucepan, bring 2 cups water to a boil. Add the quinoa, reduce the heat to
low, cover, and simmer until tender and all the water is absorbed, about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small bowl or jar, combine 2 Tbs. of the olive oil, the lime juice, garlic, cumin, oregano, 1 tsp. salt, and ¼ tsp. pepper and whisk or shake until combined. Thread the shrimp on metal or wooden skewers. Brush them with 1 Tbs. of the oil and season with salt and pepper. Rub the corn with the remaining 1 Tbs. oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill the shrimp until cooked
through, about 4 minutes per side. Grill the corn, turning occasionally, until charred in spots, about 8 minutes. Let the corn cool briefly, then cut the kernels from the cobs. In a large bowl, combine the quinoa, corn, beans, bell pepper, and scallions. Toss with the dressing, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve the shrimp with the q uinoa, sprinkled with the cilantro, if using.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 63
grilled old bay shrimp with lemony horseradish cocktail sauce Old Bay seasoning is a spice mix sold in grocery stores (look for the bright yellow tin). Ser ve these addictive shrimp with cold beer or sweet iced tea. Spread the shrimp out on news papers and invite your guests to “peel and eat.” The cocktail sauce will keep for a week in the refrigerator. Serves 4 to 6; yields 2½ cups sauce FOR THE SAUCE 2 cups tomato ketchup Grated zest of 2 small lemons Juice of both lemons (about 5 Tbs.) 4 heaping Tbs. prepared horseradish; more to taste 8 shakes Tabasco or other hot sauce; more to taste ½ tsp. sea salt or kosher salt Freshly ground pepper (optional)
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FOR THE SHRIMP 2 lb. jumbo shrimp in the shell (24 to 30), thawed completely if frozen and blotted dry ¼ cup vegetable or olive oil 2 Tbs. Old Bay seasoning ½ cup salted butter, melted (optional) MAKE THE SAUCE
In a medium bowl, combine the ketchup, lemon zest and juice, horseradish, Tabasco, salt, and
pepper, if using. Taste and adjust the seasonings, adding more horseradish if you like. Refrigerate if not using right away.
good way to do this is in a zip-top
COOK THE SHRIMP
halfway through. The shrimp are
Heat a gas grill to medium high or prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire. (If using charcoal, be sure the grate is hot, too.) Just before cooking, toss the shrimp in the oil to coat, sprinkle with the Old Bay, and toss to coat evenly (a
bag). Put the shrimp on the grate directly over the heat and cook for 6 to 7 minutes, turning once done when the shells are b right pink and the meat is opaque. Pile the shrimp on newspapers to peel and serve with the cocktail sauce, melted butter (if using), and lots of paper towels.
grilled tuna with puttanesca salsa The classic ingredients for a puttanesca sauce—tomatoes, olives, capers, and garlic—make a briny salsa perfect for fish. The salsa would also be delicious served over grilled bread. Serves 4 1 cup grape or cherry tomatoes,quartered ¼ cup pitted Kalamata olives, quartered lengthwise 1½ tsp. rinsed and drained capers 4 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium clove garlic, minced Pinch crushed red pepper flakes Pinch granulated sugar 1½ Tbs. chopped fresh basil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 5-oz. tuna steaks (preferably about 1 inch thick)
Heat a grill pan over medium-high heat or prepare a medium-high (400°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. Combine the tomatoes, olives, and capers in a medium bowl. Heat 2 tsp. of the oil in a 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, just until fragrant, about 10 seconds. Add the red pepper flakes and sugar, and stir in the tomato mixture and basil. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and take off the heat. Brush both sides of the tuna with the remaining 2 tsp. oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill until rare to medium rare in the center, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Slice the tuna into thick slices and serve topped with the salsa.
kalamata olives Kalamatas (or calamatas) are Greek olives named for their geographic region of production; they’re great for eating and for cooking. Mediumsize with thick flesh, Kalamatas have a wonderfully intense but not overly strong flavor. Picked ripe, Kalamatas are slit, brine-cured, and then packed in vinegar. Easy to pit, they’re delicious in fresh sauces like the one above or Greek salads with feta cheese, fresh tomatoes, and cucumbers.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 65
SEAFOOD
moroccan pasta with grilled tuna Serve the grilled tuna sliced on top of the spicy pasta, garnished with a few extra cilantro leaves and lemon wedges. If you like, you can break the tuna into chunks and mix it into the pasta. Serves 6 Coarse salt 12 oz. dry fusilli bucati pasta (or other spiral shape) 10 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 1 ½ tsp. ground cumin 1 tsp. sweet paprika ¼ tsp. turmeric ¼ tsp. cayenne 3 cloves garlic, minced ½ cup minced yellow onion
grilled clams with garlic-butter sauce Gather friends around the grill and enjoy hot clams as they come off the fire. Plain melted butter works fine, but this rich garlic butter is a show-stopper. Mussels, grilled in a grill basket, are great with this sauce, too. Yields about 1½ cups sauce
��� cup packed chopped cilantro leaves, plus ¼ cup whole cilantro leaves ¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 6 Tbs. fresh lemon juice Freshly ground black pepper 1 lb. fresh tuna (about 1 inch thick) Lemon wedges as a garnish
5 oz. (10 Tbs.) unsalted butter, at room temperature 12 cloves garlic 1 cup dry white wine 1½ tsp. white-wine vinegar 2 Tbs. heavy cream Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Pinch of cayenne 1½ tsp. finely chopped mixed fresh delicate herbs, such as parsley, basil, chives, or chervil 3 to 5 dozen hardshell clams, such as cherrystone or countnecks, scrubbed
In a small skillet, melt 1 Tbs. of the butter over medium-low heat. Add the garlic and cook, tossing occasionally, until the garlic is golden and very tender, about 25 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and let the garlic cool. In a food processor, pulse the remaining butter with the garlic until nearly smooth; set aside. In a nonreactive saucepan, bring the wine and vinegar to a
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rapid boil. Simmer to reduce the mixture by half and then whisk in the cream. Simmer again to reduce this mixture to about ½ cup. Off the heat, whisk in the garlic butter, 1 Tbs. at a time, to produce a creamy emulsion. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and a judicious pinch of cayenne. Keep the sauce warm while you grill the clams, but avoid overheating, which will cause it to separate. To grill the cla ms, build a medium-hot charcoal fire or heat a gas grill to medium high. Set the clams down on the grill, in batches if necessary. Cook just until they open, the edges of their meat begin to curl, and their natural juices begin to simmer. Transfer the clams to plates or a serving platter; the shells will be very hot. Stir the chopped herbs into the warm butter sauce, spoon the sauce over the opened clams, and serve immediately.
In a large pot, bring 6 quarts water and 2 Tbs. salt to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain and toss it immediately with 1 Tbs. of the olive oil. Let the pasta cool completely in the refrigerator. Start a charcoal or gas grill. In a blender or food processor, purée the cumin, paprika, turmeric, cayenne, garlic, onion, the chopped cilantro, the parsley, lemon juice, 8 Tbs. of the olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste. Put the mixture in a large bowl. Brush the tuna with the remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil, season it with salt and pepper, and grill it over a medium-hot fire for 6 to 8 minutes, turning occasionally until it’s cooked to the doneness you like. Remove from the grill . When the tuna is cool enough to handle, slice it into strips or break it into chunks. Add the pasta to the sauce and toss to combine thoroughly. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (At this point, you can hold the pasta in the refrigerator for 2 hours, if you like. Bring to room temperature before proceeding.) Put the salad in a serving bowl and garnish with the tuna, the whole cilantro leaves, and the lemon wedges.
Banh Mi Burger, p. 70
Grilled Porterhouse Steak with Chimichurri Sauce, p. 4
Burgers The grill’s most iconic sandwich, from classic beef to pork, chicken, turkey, and more.
Banh Mi Burger, p. 70 Bacon Burgers with Bacon-OnionBalsamic Jam, p. 70 Beef Burgers with Blue Cheese and Caramelized Onions, p. 72 Salmon Burgers with Peanut Sauce, p. 73 Caramelized Onion Cheeseburgers, p. 74 Moroccan Chicken Burgers with Feta and Carrot Slaw, p. 75 Turkey Burgers with Spicy Slaw, p. 76 Thai Curry Turkey Burgers, p. 77
BURGERS
bacon burgers with bacon-onion balsamic jam banh mi burger You can substitute half of the carrots with daikon radish for an even more authentic flavor. To speed up the process, you can buy already julienned carrots in the produce section of your supermarket. See the photo on p. 68. Serves 4 1 large carrot, peeled and cut into ���-inch-thick matchsticks (about 1½ cups) 3 Tbs. granulated sugar Kosher salt ¼ cup white vinegar 1 lb. ground pork 1½ Tbs. chili garlic sauce ½ Tbs. fish sauce ½ Tbs. fresh lime juice Canola or vegetable oil, for brushing 4 crusty rolls, such as French baguettes, split Mayonnaise ¼ medium English cucumber, cut i nto 16 ���-inch-thick slices 1 fresh medium jalapeño, cut into 16 thin slices ½ cup loosely packed cilantro leaves 4 thin slices of ham
Put the carrots in a medium bowl and sprinkle with 1½ tsp. of the sugar and ½ tsp. salt. Using your hands, toss the carrots in the salt and sugar to begin expelling the water from them, about 3 minutes. They will soften and liquid will begin to pool in the bottom of the bowl. The carrots are ready when they can bend easily without snapping in half and they have lost about a third of their volume. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold water. Gently press down on the carrots to push out any additional water. In the same bowl, combine 2 Tbs. of the sugar, the vinegar,
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and ¼ cup lukewarm water and stir to dissolve the sugar. Add the carrots to the pickling liquid (the liquid should be covering the carrots) and let sit for about 20 minutes. Meanwhile, combine the pork, chili garlic sauce, fish sauce, lime juice, and the remaining 1½ tsp. sugar. Shape into four 4-inchwide, ½-inch-thick patties and let sit at room temperature for 15 minutes. Heat a gas grill to medium high or prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire. Brush and oil the grates. Make a thumbprint in the center of each of the burgers and then place on the grill. Grill the first side until grill marks form, about 4 minutes. Flip and continue to cook until an instantread thermometer reads 145°F, about another 3 minutes. Remove the burgers from the grill and let rest on a plate. Place the buns on the grill and toast until grill marks form on both sides, about 1 minute per side. Spread a small amount of mayonnaise on the upper and lower halves of the buns. Lay a burger on the lower bun and top with a quarter of the carrot pickle, four cucumber slices, four jalapeño slices, a few cilantro leaves, a slice of ham, and the top half of the bun. Repeat with the other three burgers and serve.
Use the best bacon you can find to make these burgers; they’re especially delicious with dry-cured, applewoodsmoked bacon. The jam can be made a day or two ahead and gently reheated before spooning it onto the burgers. Serves 4 FOR THE JAM 4 thick slices applewood-smoked bacon, cut crosswise into ½-inch strips 1 large red onion, halved and thinly sliced Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper ��� cup balsamic vinegar ½ tsp. Dijon mustard FOR THE BURGERS 2 thick slices applewood-smoked bacon 1½ lb. ground beef (85% lean) ½ tsp. Worcestershire sauce Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 hamburger buns, split MAKE THE JAM
In a heavy-duty 12-inch skillet, cook the bacon over medium heat until lightly browned but not yet crisp, about 8 minutes. Transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain. Pour off all but 2 to 3 Tbs. of bacon fat from the skillet. Add the onion to the skillet, season with a little salt and pepper, cover the pan, and cook for 2 minutes. Uncover, add a splash of water, and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the skillet. Cover, and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft and beginning to color, about 10 minutes. Add the vinegar, mustard, and ��� cup water. Return the bacon to the skillet and bring the mixture to a simmer. Simmer, uncovered, until the liquid has thickened and most of it
has been absorbed, 2 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl and let cool slightly. Cover with plastic wrap and leave at room temperature for up to 2 hours, or refrigerate for up to 2 days and gently reheat before serving. MAKE THE BURGERS
With a sharp knife or food processor, mince the bacon. Transfer to a large mixing bowl, and add the ground beef, Worcestershire, 1 tsp. salt, and ½ tsp. pepper. Using a fork, gently toss until well mixed but not overworked. Form into four equal patties, each ¾ to 1 inch thick. Press your thumb in the center of each patty to create a deep depression.
Prepare a gas or charcoal grill fire for indirect cooking over medium-high heat (400°F to 450°F). Grill the burgers over direct heat until grill marks form, 4 to 5 minutes (move them to indirect heat if any flare-ups occur). Flip the burgers and cook for 4 to 5 minutes more for medium (a faintly pink center). For more well done, cook an additional minute. Transfer the burgers to a plate and tent them with aluminum foil. Toast the cut sides of the buns on the grill until golden grill marks form, about 1 minute. Serve the burgers on the buns, topped with a rounded ¼ cup of the jam.
Making an indentation in the center of each burger keeps them from swelling up into mini basketballs on the grill.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 71
BURGERS
beef burgers with blue cheese and caramelized onions Salty blue cheese, sweet onions, and juicy beef are a classic and addictive combination. Cooking the onions is the most time-consuming part of this recipe, but be patient: It’s worth it to coax out their deep, earthy flavor. Serves 4 2 Tbs. unsalted butter 2 medium yellow onions, chopped (about 2 cups) 1½ lb. ground beef (preferably 85% lean) 1 Tbs. chopped fresh tarragon 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard 1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce (preferably Lea & Perrins) Vegetable oil, for the grill 4 brioche or challah rolls, split 4 oz. blue cheese, crumbled (about 1 cup)
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Prepare a medium-high gas or charcoal grill fire. Melt the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring often, until golden and soft, about 20 minutes; reduce the heat to low if the onions begin to brown too quickly. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, thoroughly mix the beef, tarragon, mustard, and Worcestershire sauce with your hands. Form the mixture into four ½-inch-thick patties.
Oil the grill grate. Grill the burgers, covered, for 3 minutes. Flip the burgers and top with the cheese. Cover and continue to cook until an instant-read thermometer inserted into a burger registers 130°F for medium rare, about 4 minutes more, or 145°F for medium, about 6 minutes more. When the burgers are nearly done, toast the rolls cut side down on the grill until browned and heated through, 1 to 2 minutes. Serve the burgers in the rolls, topped with the blue cheese and caramelized onions.
salmon burgers with peanut sauce Peanut sauce goes really well with the Asian flavors in the burger, but a hit of purchased sweet chili sauce would also be tasty. Serves 4 1 lb. skinless salmon fillet 4 scallions (green parts only), cut into 1-inch pieces 4 cloves garlic, minced 2 Tbs. grated fresh ginger 2 Tbs. tamari 1 Tbs. Asian sesame oil ¼ cup fine dry breadcrumbs 2 Tbs. sesame seeds Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Vegetable oil cooking spray 4 hamburger buns Lettuce leaves Peanut Sauce (recipe at right) or Asian sweet chili sauce
Check the fillet for pin bones and remove any you find with tweezers or needle-nose pliers. Cut the salmon into 2-inch chunks. Put the salmon, scallions, garlic, ginger, tamari, and sesame oil in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until combined. This may take 5 to 6 pulses, but do not let the machine run. Put this mixture into a medium bowl and add the breadcrumbs and sesame seeds. Use your hands to gently combine. Portion the salmon mixture into four equal mounds and shape into patties about ¾ inch thick and put a slight indentation into the center of each patty. Season both sides of the burgers with salt and pepper. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. This will help the burgers hold together on the grill. Heat a gas grill to high or prepare a hot charcoal fire. Clean and oil the grates. Remove the burgers from the refrigerator and spray both sides of each with the cooking spray. Place on the grill and cook for 5 minutes. Turn and cook for 4 minutes
longer, so the burgers are just cooked through. Use a spatula to turn your burgers, but loosen them from the grill before you make the attempt. During the last minute or two, place the buns on the grill, cut side down, so they get warm and toasty. Remove all from the grill to a platter. Place the burgers on the buns and top with lettuce and either the peanut sauce or the sweet chili sauce.
peanut sauce Peanut sauce is also great with grilled fish and Asian satays. Yields about 1 cup 1 tsp. peanut oil 3 cloves garlic, minced ¼ cup soybean sauce (not soy sauce; available at Asian supermarkets) 1 Tbs. tomato paste
1 tsp. chili paste 1 Tbs. peanut butter ½ Tbs. granulated sugar 1½ Tbs. sesame seeds, toasted 10 to 15 dry-roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped
Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook for 2 to 3 minutes or until lightly browned. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the soybean sauce, tomato paste, fish sauce, and chili paste. In a small b owl, combine the peanut butter, sugar, and 1 cup water. Stir into the soybean mixture. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Pour the sauce into individual serving bowls and sprinkle with the sesame seeds and peanuts. Serve at room temperature.
1 Tbs. fish sauce
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 73
BURGERS
caramelized onion cheeseburgers Burgers just got better with the addition of tender sweet onions, melted cheese, and tangy lemon-Dijon mayonnaise. Serves 4 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more as needed 1 large sweet onion, thinly sliced (about 2 cups) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper ��� cup mayonnaise 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard 1½ tsp. fresh lemon juice 1 tsp. finely chopped fresh rosemary 1 small clove garlic, minced 1½ lb. 85%-lean ground beef 4 slices Comté or Gruyère cheese 4 good-quality hamburger buns or rolls, split 12 fresh arugula leaves
when is my hamburger done? As always with grilling, much depends on ambient temperature as well as fire intensity. Here are some ballpark guidelines for grilling burgers over a medium-hot fire. The times given are for a 6-oz. patty that’s 1 inch thick.
DESIRED DONENESS
APPROXIMATE COOKING TIME
DONENESS FEEL
rare
side one: 4 minutes, side two: 3 minutes
center very soft; inside red
medium rare
side one: 5 minutes, side two: 4 minutes
center slightly springy; juices not yet flowing from interior
medium
side one: 5 minutes, side two: 5 minutes
center very springy; juices flowing from interior; inside moist
medium well
side one: 7 minutes, side two: 5 minutes
center firm; inside texture dry, slightly crumbly
well done
side one: 7 minutes, side two: 7 minutes
center hard; inside texture crumbly
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Prepare a medium-high gas or charcoal grill fire. Alternatively, position an oven rack 5 to 6 inches from the broiler and heat the broiler to high. Line the bottom of a broiler pan with foil and lightly oil the perforated part of the pan. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion, ¼ tsp. salt, and ��� tsp. pep per; reduce the heat to medium low and cook, stirring occasionally, until deeply golden brown and tender, 15 to 18 minutes. Combine the mayonnaise, Dijon, lemon juice, rosemary, and garlic in a small bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper and set aside. In a medium bowl, gently combine the beef with ¼ tsp. salt and ��� tsp. pepper. Form the beef into four patties (3½ inches in diameter) and make a deep depression i n the center of each patty so the burgers keep their shape during cooking. Lightly sprinkle the patties with ¾ tsp. salt and ½ tsp. pepper. Grill or broil them on the prepared pan for about 4 minutes per side for medium, or until desired doneness. Top each burger with one slice of the cheese and grill or broil until melted, 30 to 60 seconds. Toast the buns on the grill or under the broiler until golden, 30 to 60 seconds. Serve the burgers on the toasted buns with the caramelized onions, mayonnaise, and arugula.
moroccan chicken burgers with feta and carrot slaw These burgers come packed with aromatic flavor thanks to cumin, fresh ginger, mint, and harissa, a spicy North African condiment. If you can’t find harissa, try a mild Thai curry paste for a slightly different flavor. Serves 4 1 lb. ground chicken (preferably not 100% breast meat) ½ medium yellow onion, grated on the large holes of a box grater 3 Tbs. chopped fresh mint 2 Tbs. harissa 1½ tsp. ground cumin 1½ tsp. finely grated fresh ginger Kosher salt 3 medium carrots, grated on the large holes of a box grater or cut into thin strips with a julienne peeler 1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice; more to taste 2 tsp. granulated sugar 1 tsp. cumin seed
4 mini whole-wheat pitas, slit open 1½ oz. crumbl ed feta (��� cup) Vegetable oil for grilling
Prepare a medium (350°F to 375°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. With your hands, gently mix the chicken, onion, 1 Tbs. of the mint, the harissa, ground cumin, ginger, and ¾ tsp. salt in a large bowl. With wet hands, form into four ½-inchthick patties. Toss the remaining 2 Tbs. mint with the carrots, lemon juice, sugar, cumin seed, and ¼ tsp. salt. Season to taste with more lemon juice and salt. Oil the grill grate and grill the burgers, flipping once, until cooked through (165°F), 8 to 10 minutes total. Serve the burgers in the pitas along with the feta and slaw.
To keep the burgers juicy, don’t press down on them while grilling. Use the spatula for flipping only.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 75
BURGERS
turkey burgers with spicy slaw With a slathering of barbecue sauce and a topping of slaw, these juicy burgers may remind you more of pulled pork than turkey. That’s a good thing. Serves 4 1 lb. ground turkey (preferably not 100% breast meat) 1 large egg, beaten 1 Tbs. finely chopped cilantro Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 oz. coleslaw mix (about 2 cups) 2 Tbs. mayonnaise 1 Tbs. seeded and minced jalapeño 2 tsp. lime juice ½ cup good-quality barbecue sauce; more to taste 4 to 8 thin slices sharp Cheddar 4 hamburger buns, toasted
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In a large bowl, combine the turkey, egg, cilantro, ½ tsp. salt, and ¼ tsp. pepper. Shape into four ½-inch-thick patties and refrigerate for at least 10 minutes. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, combine the coleslaw mix, mayonnaise, jalapeño, lime juice, and ½ tsp. salt. Prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. Grill the burgers, flipping once, until grill marks appear, 4 to 6 minutes per side. Brush the tops of the burgers with some of the barbecue sauce,
flip, and cook until the sauce caramelizes in spots, about 2 minutes. Brush the tops with more sauce, flip, and cook until the burger is cooked through (165°F). Top the burgers with the cheese and continue to grill until the cheese melts, about 1 minute. Serve on the rolls, topped with the slaw and more barbecue sauce, if you like.
thai curry turkey burgers Aromatic Thai curry paste mixed into the meat gives these turkey burgers a flavorful kick; look for it in the Asian section of most supermarkets. Serves 4 1¼ lb. ground turkey (not ground turkey breast) 2 Tbs. red or green Thai curry paste Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Vegetable oil, for the grill 1 medium lime ��� cup mayonnaise ¾ cup thinly sliced seedless cucumber ¼ cup fresh cilantro leaves 1 small shallot, thinly sliced 1 Tbs. seasoned rice vinegar 4 sesame seed hamburger buns Sliced tomato, for serving
Prepare a medium gas or charcoal grill fire. In a medium bowl, gently mix the turkey, curry paste, and ¼ tsp. each salt and pepper with your hands just until blended. Form the mixture into four ½-inch-thick patties.
Oil the grill grate. Grill the burgers, flipping once, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the centers of the burgers registers 165°F, 12 to 1 5 minutes total. While the burgers cook, finely grate 1 tsp. zest from the lime, then squeeze the lime to yield 1 Tbs. juice. In a small bowl, combine the zest and juice, mayonnaise, and ¼ tsp. salt. In another small bowl, toss the cucumber with the cilantro, shallot, and vinegar. Toast the buns cut side down on the grill until browned and heated through, 1 to 2 minutes. Spread the tops and bottoms of the buns with the mayonnaise. Serve the burgers in the buns, topped with a slice of tomato and the cucumber mixture.
curry paste Curry pastes are a staple of Thai cuisine. Made from chiles, spices, and aromatics like lemongrass, wild lime leaves, shrimp paste, shallots, garlic, and galangal, these concentrated blends are the base of many delicious recipes, including these turkey burgers. Look for Thai curry pastes in well-stocked supermarkets and Asian groceries (or see p. 117 for a mail-order source). Once opened, curry paste keeps for about a month in the fridge and three months in the freezer.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 77
Grilled Sweet Potato Fries, p. 84
Vegetables Take corn, zucchini, onions, eggplant, and other summer favorites to the grill; it’s the perfect way to cook your farmers’ market finds.
Grilled Corn and Shallots, p. 80 Grilled Artichoke Hearts, p. 80 Grilled Zucchini with Spicy Peanut Sauce, p. 81 Grilled Corn on the Cob with Thyme and Roasted Red Pepper Butter, p. 82 Balsamic-Glazed Grilled Sweet Onions, p. 83 Grilled Eggplant Rolls with Feta and Olives, p. 84 Grilled Sweet Potato Fries, p. 84 Grilled Goat Cheese Pizza with Figs, Beets, and Wilted Greens, p. 85
VEGETABLES
grilled artichoke hearts Some small artichokes are so young and tender that they have practically no choke. Others are small but mature, with tougher chokes that must be removed. For trimming, use a stainless-steel knife and rub each cut surface with a lemon half. Serves 8 ¼ cup olive oil 4 to 5 medium cloves garlic 6 sprigs fresh thyme 1 Tbs. salt; more for seasoning 1 medium lemon, thinly sliced, plus the juice of ½ lemon 16 small artichokes (or 8 large artichokes)
grilled corn and shallots Quickly charring onions and shallots on the grill brings out their sweetness for this easy side dish. Serve it with grilled tuna or spareribs. Serves 4 4 ears corn, husked 3 large shallots, halved 2 Tbs. olive oil 2 Tbs. unsalted butter 1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice 1 tsp. finely chopped fresh tarragon Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
Prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) charcoal or gas grill fire. Brush the corn and shallots with oil. Grill them, turning occasionally, until grill marks appear and the shallots soften, about 6 minutes for the shallots and about 10 minutes for the corn. Let cool briefly. Cut the kernels from the cob, chop the shallots, and transfer to a medium bowl. In a small saucepan, heat the butter until browned. Off the heat, whisk in the lemon juice, tarragon, ½ tsp. salt, and ½ tsp. pepper. Toss with the corn and shallots, and season to taste with salt a nd pepper.
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In a large nonreactive pot, combine 2 quarts cold water with the olive oil, garlic, thyme, salt, and lemon slices. Bring to a boil over high heat and then lower to a gentle si mmer. To prepare the artichokes, peel away the darker outer leaves until you see the pale green-yellow of the tender inner leaves. If using small artichokes, trim off about ½ inch of the tops and trim the tough end from the stem. With a sharp-edged spoon, scrape out the choke, if there is any. If using large artichokes, slice
off the upper two-thirds of the artichoke and cut off the stem. Pare away the remaining tough leaves from the base. Cut in half lengthwise and scrape out the choke fibers. Prepare a charcoal or wood fire. Immerse the artichokes in the pot with the simmering brine. Simmer gently until cooked through and fork-tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain the artichokes on paper towels and set aside until cool enough to handle. When the grill is hot, for small artichokes, open out the leaves and press them onto the grill so that they flatten slightly. Cut larger artichokes into quarters and then grill. When nicely browned, remove them from the grill and season with lemon juice and salt.
grilled zucchini with spicy peanut sauce Zucchini takes on smoky, nutty flavors when grilled, making it a delicious partner for the spicy, satay-inspired peanut sauce. If you have any leftover sauce, try it with noodles or shrimp. Serves 4 2 large zucchini, trimmed and sliced lengthwise into ¼-inch-thick slices (12 to 16) Olive oil, for brushing Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 Tbs. red curry paste ¾ cup coconut milk ¼ cup chunky natural peanut butter 2 tsp. fish sauce ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro 1 Tbs. fresh lime juice
Prepare a medium-high (425°F to 450°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. Brush the zucchini slices with oil and season with salt and pepper.
Grill the zucchini until grill marks form on one side, about 2 minutes. Flip the slices and continue to grill until tender, about 1 to 2 minutes more. In a 1-quart saucepan, cook the curry paste over medium heat, stirring, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Whisk in the coconut milk, peanut butter, and fish sauce until well combined. Remove from the heat and stir in the cilantro and lime juice. Arrange the zucchini slices on a platter, drizzle with some of the sauce, and serve, passing the remaining sauce at the table.
how to slice the zucchini First, trim off both ends of the zucchini. Then, trim a little off two long sides of the zucchini and cut the remainder into lengthwise strips, each about ¼ inch thick.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 81
VEGETABLES
grilled corn on the cob with thyme and roasted red pepper butter The chunky, vegetable butter topping in this dish is at once sweet and tangy, a bright addition to plain old grilled corn on the cob. Serves 8 4 oz. (½ cup) unsalted butter, softened to room temperature 2 jarred roasted red peppers, drained well, patted dry, and finely chopped (½ to ��� cup) 1 large shallot, minced (¼ cup) 1½ Tbs. sherry vinegar 1 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme 2 tsp. kosher salt ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper; more as needed 8 ears corn, shucked 2 Tbs. olive oil
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Put the butter, red peppers, shallot, vi negar, 2 tsp. of the thyme, 1 tsp. of the salt, and the black pepper in a food processor and pulse until blended (it’s fine if it’s still slightly chunky and looks a l ittle separated). Transfer to a large piece of plastic wrap and roll tightly, twisting the ends so the bundle acquires a sausage shape. (Store in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.) When ready to grill the corn, slice the butter into ���-inch-thick rounds. Heat a gas grill to medium or prepare a low charcoal fire. If desired, cut each ear of corn
in half. Toss the corn with the oil, the remaining 1 tsp. salt, and a few grinds of black pepper. Put the ears on the grill, and if using gas, reduce the heat to medium low. Cover and grill the corn, turning every couple of minutes, until browned all over and tender, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a large platter, and top with about half of the butter and the remaining 1 tsp. thyme. Serve, passing the remaining butter on the side.
balsamic-glazed grilled sweet onions Sweet, smoky, tangy, and herbal—a lot of flavors come together in this rustic dish. These onions are fabulous with grilled chops or steaks or tucked among sliced tomatoes for a summer salad platter. Or chop them roughly and spoon onto grilled bread rubbed with a cut ripe tomato for a twist on bruschetta. Yields 1½ cups 2 lb. sweet onions (such as Vidalia, Walla Walla, Maui, or Texas Sweet) Olive oil 1 cup balsamic vinegar 1 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme leaves ½ tsp. crushed pink peppercorns (optional) ½ tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
Peel and trim the onions. Cut them crosswise into ½-inchthick slices. Insert a toothpick or poultry lacer horizontally halfway into each slice to hold the onion rings together. Prepare a medium-low charcoal fire or heat a gas grill on medium low for 10 minutes. Brush the grill grate clean and wipe it with a paper towel dipped in oil. Brush both sides of the onion slices with olive oil and grill, covered, turning every 10 minutes, until very soft and well browned on the outside, 35 to 40 minutes total. (A little blackening is OK, but try not to char the onions.) Stack the onions on
a large sheet of foil and wrap loosely. Set aside while you make the glaze. Pour the balsamic vinegar into a small saucepan and add the thyme leaves, pink peppercorns (if using), and salt. Boil, uncovered, over medium-high heat until the vinegar has reduced to about ¼ cup and has a syrupy texture, 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool briefly and season to taste with salt, if necessary. Transfer the onions to a dish. Remove the toothpicks and any extremely charred layers, if necessary. If the balsamic glaze has thickened, reheat it gently until pourable. Pour the glaze over the onions and brush to distribute it evenly. Serve warm or at room temperature. Note: You can grill the onions and make the glaze several hours ahead, but wait to glaze the onions until just before serving. If the onions sit in the glaze for more than 10 minutes, their juices will thin the glaze.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 83
grilled sweet potato fries If you’re grilling your burgers, shouldn’t you grill your fries, too? These spiced, tangy sweet potato wedges make a great side dish for any kind of burger or grilled chicken. Serves 4 4 6-oz. sweet potatoes, cut lengthwise into ½-inch-thick wedges 3 Tbs. olive oil 2 Tbs. fresh lime juice ½ tsp. ground cumin Pinch of cayenne Kosher salt
grilled eggplant rolls with feta and olives Luscious grilled eggplant slices filled with tangy feta, briny olives, and fresh herbs make an elegant yet easy summer starter or light dinner. Having a cookout? The recipe can be easily doubled for a crowd. Serves 2 as a main dish or 6 as an appetizer 1 large eggplant, trimmed and sliced into six ½-inch-thick lengthwise slices Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper ½ cup crumbled feta 2 Tbs. chopped pitted Kalamata olives 2 Tbs. chopped mixed fresh herbs (such as chives, parsley, and basil); more for garnish
Prepare a medium-hot (425°F to 450°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. Brush the eggplant slices with oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill the eggplant until grill marks form on one side, about 3 minutes. Flip the slices and continue to grill until the eggplant is tender, about 2 minutes more. In a small bowl, combine the feta, olives, and herbs. Spread the eggplant slices on a work surface. Put 1 heaping Tbs. of the feta mixture at the wider end of each slice and then tightly roll up. Arrange the rolls seam side down on a platter and finish with a little oil, pepper, and more chopped herbs.
An eggplant with a small calyx—the leathery, green cap that protrudes from the stem—will often have fewer seeds than one with a larger calyx.
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Prepare a medium-high (400°F to 475°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. Blanch the sweet potatoes in boiling water until just tender, about 6 minutes. Drain well. In a large bowl, combine the oil, lime juice, cumin, cayenne, and 1 tsp. salt. Add the potatoes and toss to coat. Grill, turning occasionally, until dark grill marks form on each side, 6 to 8 minutes. Return the potatoes to the bowl and toss with any leftover dressing. Season with salt and serve.
grilled goat cheese pizza with figs, beets, and wilted greens Serve these individual pizzas with a mini antipasto platter of grilled red peppers, olives, and marinated artichoke hearts, and a refreshing, citrusy beer. Serves 4 4 medium beets with tops, beets peeled and sliced ¼ inch thick, and beet greens washed, stemmed, and thinly sliced 4 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 lb. pizza dough (white or whole wheat), at room temperature All-purpose flour, as needed Cornmeal, as needed 4 oz. goat cheese, softened ��� cup chopped dried figs 4 thin slices provolone (about 3 oz.)
Prepare a high gas or charcoal grill fire. In a medium bowl, toss the beets with 2 tsp. of the oil and a light sprinkling of salt and pepper. In another medium bowl, toss the beet greens with the remaining 2 tsp. oil and a light sprinkling of salt and pepper. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Using a dough scraper or sharp knife, quarter the dough. Working with one piece at a time, stretch or roll each piece of dough into a rustic 12x3½- to 4-inch oval. If the dough resists stretching, let it rest for a few minutes while you work on the other pieces. Transfer to large cornmeal-coated rimmed baking sheets. Grill the beets, covered and turning once, until tender and spotty brown on both sides, 8 to 10 minutes. Return the beets to their bowl and set aside. Reduce the grill heat to medium low (or let the fire die down). Arrange the pizzas on the grill perpendicular to the grate. Cover and grill, moving them around as needed to ensure even cooking, until the bottoms are spotty brown, 2 to 4 minutes. Return the crusts to the baking sheets grilled side up. Spread each with a quarter of the softened goat cheese and then top with the beet greens, grilled beets, and figs. Top with the provolone, breaking it into pieces so that most of each pizza is covered. Return the pizzas to the grill, cover, and cook until the bottoms are spotty brown, the greens are wilted, and the cheese is melted, 2 to 3 minutes longer. Transfer the pizzas to a cutting board, cut into pieces, and serve.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 85
Grilled Peach and Buffalo Mozzarella Salad, p. 88
Salads From Fr om fresh, bright dinner salads to bold sides that round out o ut the barbecue, there’s a salad here for any meal.
Grilled Peach and Buffalo Mozzarella Salad, p. 88 Grilled Southwestern Potato Salad, p. 88 Green Bean Salad with wi th Tomatoes, Tomatoes, Arugula, and Basil Dressing, p. 89 Grilled Butter Lettuce with Buttermilk-Chive Dressing, p. 90 Shells with Arugula, Feta, and Sun-Dried Tomatoes, p. 91 Seven-Layer Grilled Southwestern Chicken Salad, p. 91 Steak Salad with Grilled Red Onions, p. 92 Avocado, Fennel, and Grapefruit Salad with Grilled Shrimp, p. 93 Basmati Rice Salad with Mango and Cucumber, p. 94 Grilled Pepper Panzanella, p. 94 Chopped Grilled-Chicken Salad, p. 95
SALADS
grilled peach and buffalo mozzarella salad Reduced balsamic vinegar adds a tangy kick to peaches that are grilled to bring out their inherent sweetness. Be sure to choose nice, firm fruit; if the peaches are soft, they’ll collapse on the grill. See the photo on p. 86. Serves 4 as a starter ¾ cup balsamic vinegar 2 sprigs fresh thyme Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 firm-ripe peaches (12 oz. total), halved and pitted 4 ½ tsp. extra-virgin olive oil 4 cups lightly packed baby arugula (about 2¼ oz.) 1 ball buffalo mozzarella mozzarella (5 to 7 oz.), cut into ¾-inch chunks (about 1 cup)
Prepare a medium gas or charcoal grill fire. Combine the vinegar and thyme in a 2-quart saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until the mixture is thick, syrupy, and reduced to ¼ cup, 6 to 9 minutes. Remove from the heat, discard the thyme sprigs, and season with a pinch of salt and a few grinds of black pepper. Rub the peaches all over with 2 tsp. of the oil and season lightly with salt and pepper. Grill cut side down until lightly charred, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer Transfer to a cutting board and let cool slightly. Slice each half into thirds. In a medium bowl, toss the arugula with the remaining 2½ tsp. oil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Arrange on a platter. Top with the buffalo mozzarella and peaches and drizzle with about 2 Tbs. of the reduced balsamic, adding more to taste. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.
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grilled southw southwestern estern potato salad This potato salad is filled with favorite flavorings of the Southwest—corn, chiles, red onions, peppers, and some crisp bacon. Serves 10 to 12 as a side dish 2 large red onions, cut cut into ½-inch disks and threaded onto metal skewers 4 red bell peppers, halved, cored, and seeded ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 tsp. plus 2 Tbs. kosher salt; more as needed 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper; more as needed 1½ cups cooked fresh corn kernels (from 2 ears) ½ lb. bacon (8 to 9 slices), cooked until crisp, drained, and crumbled ¾ cup chopped fresh cilantro 1 tsp. chili powder 3 lb. red potatoes, cut into 1½-inch pieces 3 Tbs. cider vinegar; more as needed
Heat a gas grill to medium or prepare a charcoal fire with medium- and low-heat areas. Put the onions and peppers on a rimmed baking sheet and sprinkle with 2 Tbs. of the oil, 2 tsp. of the salt, and the pepper. Turn Turn and rub the vegetables to coat all over with the oil and seasonings. Grill the vegetables, covered, until they have good grill marks, about 5 minutes. Flip,
cover, cover, and continue to grill until the peppers are softened and nicely browned, about 5 more minutes. As they finish cooking, transfer the peppers to the baking sheet. Reduce the heat on the gas grill to medium low or transfer the onions to the cooler part of the fire and continue cooking until they are j ust tender and browned (it’s fine if they’re charred in places), about 8 more minutes. Move to a cutting board and let cool. Scrape the skins off the peppers if you like. Coarsely chop the peppers and onions and toss in a large serving bowl along with the corn, bacon, cilantro, and chili powder. Put the potatoes in a large pot, cover with cold water by a couple of inches, stir in the remaining 2 Tbs. of salt, and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook until the potatoes are just tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain and toss with the grilled vegetables, the remaining ½ cup plus 2 Tbs. oil, and the vinegar. Season with salt, pepper, and more vinegar to taste. Let sit at least 30 minutes and up to 2 hours at room temperature before serving.
green bean salad with tomatoes, arugula, and basil dressing This vibrant salad is full of fresh flavors and ingredients. Serves 8 as a side dish 1 cup loosely packed basil leaves 2 strips lemon zest about 3 inches long and ½ inch wide, white pith removed ��� cup extra-virgi n olive oil Kosher salt 2 lb. fresh slender green beans, trimmed (long ones snapped in half) 2 cups arugula, arugula, rinsed and and spun dry 2 cups cherry tomatoes (about ¾ lb; preferably a mix of red, orange, and yellow), halved 1½ cups (10 oz.) 1-inch-diameter fresh mozzarella balls (ciliegine), halved 1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice; more to taste Freshly ground black pepper
Fill an 8-quart stockpot three-quarters full of water and bring to a boil over high heat. Put the basil and lemon zest in a metal sieve, immerse it in the boiling water, and blanch for 5 seconds. Remove, tapping the sieve over the sink to shake off excess water. Turn off the burner but leave the water in the pot with the cover on. Roughly chop the lemon zest. Put the basil and lemon zest in a blender and pulse a few times. With the blender running, pour the oil through the lid’s fill hole and blend until incorporated, stopping to scrape down the sides of the blender as needed. Transfer to a small bowl or liquid measuring cup and cover. Refrigerate until ready to assemble the salad.
Return the water to a boil over high heat. Add 2 Tbs. salt and the green beans. Cook until the beans are crisp-tender or fully tender, depending on your preference, 4 to 6 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water. Spread the beans on a large rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate to cool completely. If making more than an hour ahead, cover and refrigerate. In a large bowl, combine the cooled beans with the arugula, tomatoes, and mozzarella. Toss with the basil oil and lemon juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper and more lemon juice.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 89
SALADS
grilled greens A quick turn on the grill gives salad greens caramelized edges, while their interior leaves remain crisp-tender. Their flavor gets concentrated and infused with smokiness, making for salads that are complex and satisfying. For summer dinner parties, they’re ideal—unexpected, visually appealing, and tasty—but they’re also easy enough for weeknights.
grilled butter lettuce with buttermilk-chive dressing This is so much better than your average green salad. The flavorful grilled lettuce is offset by a cool, tangy dressing. Serves 8 as a side dish ½ cup buttermilk ¼ cup crème fraîche 2 Tbs. mayonnaise 2 Tbs. thinly sliced fresh chives 1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice Kosher salt Vegetable oil for the grill 4 large heads butter lettuce, halved lengthwise
In a medium bowl, whisk the buttermilk, crème fraîche, mayonnaise, chives, and lemon juice. Season to taste with salt. (The dressing may be made up to 1 day ahead and kept refrigerated.)
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Prepare a gas or charcoal grill fire for direct cooking over medium-high (500°F) heat. Lightly oil the grill grates. Lightly season the lettuce with ¼ tsp. salt. Grill cut side down until wilted, lightly charred, and the cores are crisp-tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the grilled lettuce to a serving platter and drizzle with the dressing (you won’t need all the dressing; refrigerate leftovers for up to 3 days). Lightly sprinkle the lettuce with salt and serve.
shells with arugula, feta, and sun-dried tomatoes If you can’t find high-quality arugula (smallish leaves with no brown spots or large holes), use baby spinach instead. Serves 8 to 10 as a side dish Kosher salt ¼ lb. arugula, washed (stem and rip the leaves into smaller pieces if they’re large) 6 oz. feta cheese, crumbled ½ cup pitted Kalamata olives (16 to 20), quartered 2 heaping Tbs. drained, thinly sliced oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes (or 8 sun-dried tomatoes, rehydrated in hot water and thinly sliced) 1 lb. dried small or medium shells or orecchiette 1 Tbs. red-wine vinegar 3 Tbs. olive oil Freshly ground black pepper 10 basil leaves, cut in a chiffonade (see p. 110)
Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Put the arugula, feta, olives, and sun-dried tomatoes in a large bowl. Reserve or refrigerate until needed. Cook the pasta in the boiling water until it’s just tender, about 9 minutes (follow the package’s instructions). Meanwhile, add the vinegar and oil to the arugula salad, season liberally with salt and pepper, and toss well. Drain the pasta, add it to the salad, and toss. Check the seasonings and serve hot, warm, or at room temperature, adding the basil just before serving.
seven-layer grilled southwestern chicken salad Chicken salads like this one are open for improvisation; for example, a layer of fresh cooked corn or chopped olives would be more than welcome here. Serves 4 as a main course 1 lb. chicken breast tenderloins, rinsed and patted dry 1½ tsp. plus a pinch of hot chile powder Kosher salt 1 tsp. plus 2½ Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 3 cups (6 to 7 oz.) coarsely chopped crisp lettuce (like iceberg or romaine) ��� cup loosely packed fresh cilantro leaves 1 ripe, medium avocado, pitted, peeled, and cut into ½-inch dice 1 generous cup (6 to 7 oz.) grape tomatoes, quartered, or 1 small ripe tomato, cut into ½-inch dice 4 scallions (white and light green parts), thinly sliced 2 oz. (about ½ cup) crumbled fresh goat cheese, chilled ��� cup toasted pine nuts or pepitas 2 Tbs. fresh lime juice
Heat a gas grill to medium high. Toss the tenderloins with 1½ tsp. chile powder, 1 tsp. salt, and 1 tsp. olive oil to coat thor-
oughly. Put the tenderloins on the grill and cook, covered, until lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip and continue to cook until firm and cooked through (they should still be a bit flexible), another 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for a few minutes. When cool enough to handle, chop into ½-inch pieces. Arrange the lettuce over the bottom of a wide (preferably glass) salad bowl. Sprinkle the cilantro leaves over the lettuce. Add the diced avocado and sprinkle ½ tsp. salt over it. In successive layers, add the chopped chicken, diced tomato, scallions, goat cheese, and nuts. In a small bowl, whisk the lime juice with the remaining 2½ Tbs. olive oil with a large pinch of salt and a large pinch of chil e powder. Drizzle the mixture over the whole salad. At the table, gently toss all the layers together and serve.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 91
SALADS
steak salad with grilled red onions This meaty main-course salad has loads of full flavor thanks to a glaze on the steak, a mustardy vinaigrette, and a generous sprinkling of blue cheese. Serves 4 as a main dish 1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce ¼ cup plus 3 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 lb. skirt steak, trimmed and cut in half 4 tsp. sherry vinegar 1 tsp. Dijon mustard 1 tsp. honey ½ tsp. minced garlic Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 medium red onion, sliced crosswise in ¼-inch-thick rounds 6 oz. baby greens (6 packed cups) 1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved 3 oz. blue cheese, crumbled (about ¾ cup)
Heat a large grill pan over medium-high heat or prepare a medium-high (400°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. In a baking dish just large enough to hold the steak, combine the Worcestershire sauce and 1 tsp. olive oil. Add the steak and turn to coat both sides. Combine the vi negar, mustard, honey, garlic, ½ tsp. salt, and several grinds of black pepper in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in the ¼ cup olive oil. Brush the onion slices with the remaining 2 tsp. olive oil, and grill until tender, about 4 minutes per side. Season the steak with salt and pepper and grill alongside the onion, flipping once, 3 to 5 minutes total for medium rare. Transfer the steak to a cutting board, tent with foil, and let rest 5 minutes. Toss the greens and tomatoes with just enough of the vinaigrette to coat lightly and divide among serving plates. Slice the steak across the grain, separate the onion into rings, and arrange both over the greens. Sprinkle the blue cheese over the salad, drizzle with additional dressing, if you like, and serve.
92 G R I L L I N G 2 0 1 6
avocado, fennel, and grapefruit salad with grilled shrimp Mâche is a small oval-leaf lettuce that is common in France and has recently become more popular in the U.S. It’s also sometimes called lamb’s lettuce. If you can’t find mâche, use an extra cup of Boston lettuce. Serves 2 as a main course or 4 as a starter 1 ruby red grapefruit ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 large shallot, finely diced (about ¼ cup) 1 Tbs. fresh lime juice; more as needed ¾ tsp. kosher salt ½ tsp. fennel seeds, lightly chopped ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper ¾ lb. jumbo shrimp (21 to 25 per lb.), peeled and deveined 1 large head Boston lettuce, washed and torn into large bite-size pieces (about 3 cups) 1 cup mâche sprigs ½ small bulb fresh fennel, cored and very thinly sliced or shaved on a mandoline (about 1 cup) ½ cup loosely packed fresh cilantro leaves 1 medium-size ripe Hass avocado
Slice the ends off the grapefruit to expose the flesh. Set the grapefruit on one of its cut ends and slice off the skin in wide strips (try to remove all the bitter white pith). Working over a medium bowl, cut the segments free from the membranes, letting each segment fall into the bowl as you go. Squeeze the juice from the membrane and strain the juice into a small bowl. Remove any seeds from the segments and cut the segments in half crosswise. Put 3 Tbs. of the grapefruit juice, the oil, shallot, lime juice, salt, fennel seeds, and pepper in a container with a tight-fitting lid and shake it vigorously to combine. Taste and add more lime
juice if needed to make the vinaigrette bright and tangy. Reserve ½ cup of the vinaigrette for dressing the salad, and pour the remaining vinaigrette into a medium nonreactive bowl. Put the shrimp in the bowl with the vinaigrette, toss, and let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes, tossing occasionally. Prepare a hot gas or charcoal grill. (Prepare the salad ingredients while the shrimp marinate and the grill heats.) Or, heat a grill pan over mediumhigh heat. Grill the shrimp until just cooked through, about 1½ minutes per side. Transfer to a plate and let the shrimp cool slightly.
Put the lettuce, mâche, sliced fennel, and cilantro in a large bowl. Peel and cut the avocado into ½-inch chunks. Give the reserved vinaigrette a vigorous shake and drizzle about 3 Tbs. over the salad. Toss the salad gently to combine; the vinaigrette should just coat the leaves. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Divide the salad between two dinner plates or four salad plates. Scatter the avocado, grapefruit, and shrimp over the salad, tucking some pieces between the leaves. Sprinkle with the feta (if using), drizzle with a little of the remaining vinaigrette, and serve immediately.
3 oz. feta, crumbled (about ½ cup); optional
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 93
SALADS
basmati rice salad with mango and cucumber Mango, ginger, cilantro, and rice vinegar give a Southeast Asian twist to this spicy, cool rice salad. Serves 8 to 10 as a side dish 2½ cups basmati rice Kosher salt ½ cup plus 1 Tbs. extra-virgi n olive oil; more as needed ��� cup rice vinegar 1 Tbs. Asian sesame oil 2 Tbs. finely grated fresh ginger Freshly ground black pepper 1¼ cups diced mango (½-inch dice) 1¼ cups diced peeled cucumber (½-inch dice) ½ cup thinly sliced scallions ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves and stems
Rinse the rice under cold water and drain. Bring 7 cups of water to a boil in a 4-quart pot over high heat. Add ¾ tsp. salt. Add the rice, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally and adding more boiling water as necessary to keep the rice covered, until
tender, about 10 to 15 minutes. Drain and rinse the rice with cold water to stop the cooking. Transfer the rice to a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet, drizzle with 1 Tbs. of the oil, and toss lightly to coat. Spread the rice on the baking sheet and let cool completely at room temperature or in the refrigerator. Put the vinegar in a small bowl and gradually whisk in the remaining ½ cup of olive oil. Whisk in the sesame oil and ginger. Taste and season with salt, pepper, and additional vinegar or olive oil if needed. Put the cooked and cooled rice in a large serving bowl and toss to break up any clumps. Add the mango, cucumber, scallions, cilantro, and ½ cup vinaigrette and toss. Taste and season as needed with more vinaigrette, salt, and pepper, and serve.
grilled pepper panzanella This bread salad gets a double dose of smoky flavor from grilled peppers and grilled bread. It’s delicious for lunch or a light supper with fish or chicken. Serves 4 as a side dish 3 red, yellow, or orange bell peppers (or a mix), quartered lengthwise, stemmed, and seeded ¼ cup extra-virgi n olive oil; more for brushing Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 5-inch-long piece day-old ciabatta bread, split lengthwise 2 cups halved cherry tomatoes ¼ cup chopped fresh basil 1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice 1 medium clove garlic, minced
Prepare a medium-high (425°F to 450°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. Brush the pepper quarters with oil and season with salt and pepper. Brush both cut sides of the ciabatta lightly with oil. Grill the peppers skin side down until grill marks form on one side, about 5 minutes. Flip the peppers and continue to grill until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes more. Meanwhile, grill the bread, turning once, until nicely toasted on both sides. Cut the bread into ¾-inch cub es and transfer to a medium bowl. Cut the peppers into 1-inch pieces and add to the bowl. Stir in the cherry tomatoes and basil. In a small bowl, whisk together the remaining ¼ cup oil, the lemon juice, garlic, ¼ tsp. salt, and ¼ tsp. pepper. Drizzle over the salad and toss to combine. Season to taste with more salt and pepper and let stand for 20 minutes before serving so the flavors meld.
chopped grilled-chicken salad Buttermilk, blue cheese, and bacon: These three Bs conspire to make a chicken salad that’s unbelievably good. Serves 4 as a main dish ��� cup buttermilk 2 Tbs. mayonnaise 1½ Tbs. Champagne or whitewine vinegar 2¼ oz. blue cheese, crumbled (½ cup) 2 large cloves garlic, mashed to a paste with a pinch of salt 1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh tarragon Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1¼ lb. thin-cut chicken breast Vegetable oil, for the grill 2 ears corn, shucked 5 slices bacon, cut crosswise into ½-inch pi eces 2 romaine hearts, sliced crosswise 1 inch thick (about 8 cups) 1 heaping cup grape tomatoes, halved
Prepare a medium (350°F to 375°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. In a small bowl, whisk the buttermilk, mayonnaise, vinegar, half of the cheese, and half of the garlic paste. Stir in the tarragon, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Combine the remaining garlic paste with 1 tsp. salt and ¼ tsp. pepper, and rub it all over the chicken. Oil the grill grate and grill the chicken, flipping once, until just cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes total. Transfer to a cutting board, tent with foil, and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Chop into bite-size pieces. Meanwhile, grill the corn, turning occasionally, until charred in spots, 3 to 5 minutes. (The corn will not be fully tender at this point.) Let cool briefly, then cut the kernels off the cob. In a 10-inch nonstick skillet, cook the bacon over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until crisp, 5 to 6 minutes total. Leaving the fat in the pan, transfer the bacon to a paper towel–lined plate. Discard all but 1 tsp. fat. Add the corn and cook over medium heat, stirring, until tender, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl. Add the lettuce and tomatoes and toss with enough dressing to coat well. Add the chicken and toss to combine. Serve sprinkled with the bacon and the remaining cheese, and pass any remaining dressing at the table.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 95
Peach and Blueberry Crisp with Spiced-Pecan Topping, p. 98
Desserts Favorite sweets like brownies and pie make a delicious end to a summer meal. Or, leave the fire on and try out one of our grilled fruit treats.
Peach and Blueberry Crisp with Spiced-Pecan Topping, p. 98 Grilled Cinnamon-Sugar Bananas with Vanilla Ice Cream and Bourbon, p. 98 Macadamia Double-Decker Brownie Bars, p. 99 Mixed Berry Tarts with Lemony Filling, p. 101 Coffee and Cream Icebox Cake, p. 103 Classic Key Lime Pie, p. 104 Grilled Peaches with Pound Cake and Ginger Crème Fraîche, p. 105
DESSERTS
peach and blueberry crisp with spiced-pecan topping Unlike most recipes for fruit crisp, which feed a large crowd, this one, baked in a 9-inch pan, is perfect for smaller households or gatherings. This crisp is delicious served with vanilla-bean ice cream. See the photo on p. 96. Serves 6 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened; more for the pan
grilled cinnamon-sugar bananas with vanilla ice cream and bourbon The secret to grilling bananas is leaving them in their skin to hold them together and protect them from the flame. The bonus is that you know that your bananas are done when the skin starts to separate from the flesh. Serves 6 to 8 Vegetable oil, for the grill 4 bananas, ripe but not overly soft 1 Tbs. granulated sugar
3 oz. (��� cup) all-purpose flour
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
½ cup packed light brown sugar
1 pint best-quality vanilla ice cream
½ tsp. ground cinnamon ��� cup coarsely chopped pecans
½ to ¾ cup toasted pecan pieces
3 cups (about 1 lb.) room-temperature blueberries, washed and drained on paper towels
2 Tbs. best-quality bourbon, such as Maker’s Mark or Woodford Reserve
¼ tsp. table salt
3 medium peaches (about 1 lb.), halved, pitted, and sliced ½ inch thick ¼ cup granulated sugar 3 Tbs. cornstarch ¼ tsp. freshly ground nutmeg
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F. Lightly butter a 9-inch square metal or ceramic baking pan. In a small bowl, combine the flour, brown sugar, cinnamon, and ��₈ tsp. of the salt. With your fingers, work the butter into the flour mixture until the mixture readily clumps together when pressed. Mix in the pecans. In a large bowl, toss the blueberries and peaches. In a small bowl, combine the granulated sugar with the cornstarch, nutmeg, and the remaining ��₈ tsp. salt and toss this mixture with the fruit. Spread the fruit into the prepared bak ing pan. Pressing the streusel into small lumps, sprinkle it over the fruit. Bake until the fruit is bubbling in the center and the topping is crisp and well browned, 45 to 50 minutes. Let cool slightly and serve warm.
Be sure to use room-temperature berries. Cold fruit straight from the refrigerator will prevent your dessert from baking evenly.
98 G R I L L I N G 2 0 1 6
Heat a gas grill to medium or prepare a medium charcoal fire. Brush the grill grate clean and lightly oil it. Slice the bananas, still in their skin, in half lengthwise and then crosswise so that each banana yields 4 pieces.
In a small bowl, mix the sugar and cinnamon. Lightly sprinkle the cut sides of the bananas with some of the cinnamon sugar (you may not need it all). Let sit for 5 minutes so the sugar starts to dissolve. Put the bananas, cut side down, on the grate and cover the grill. Grill until marks appear, 2 to 3 minutes. Using tongs, flip the bananas, cover the grill, and cook until the skin starts to pull away from the banana, about another 5 minutes. Remove from the grill and let cool for 2 to 3 minutes. Peel and serve the bananas on top of vanilla ice cream, sprinkled with the pecan pieces and drizzled with bourbon.
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Ready, Set, Grill!
Greek Yogurt Pineapple adds a fresh flavor to a variety of grilled dishes Four Ways From the chefs featured on Fine Cooking’s TV show, Moveable Feast , here are four fabulous recipes featuring Chobani ® Greek yogurt. Watch for the show’s season 3 premiere on PBS this fall.
Sweet Choices
PINEAPPLE SLICES
PINEAPPLE CHUNKS
PINEAPPLE TIDBITS
Citrus Barbecue Chicken
CRUSHED PINEAPPLE BROUGHT TO YOU BY
FINECOOKING.COM
15
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Grilled Pineapple Candied Shrimp Cocktails with Pineapple Jalapeño Dipping Sauce Prep: 15 min. Cook: 10 min. Makes: 5 servings
1 can (20 oz.) DOLE® Crushed Pineapple, divided 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard, divided 1 tablespoon packed light brown sugar 1 lb. (13 to 15 count) raw shrimp, peeled and deveined with tails intact Juice and peel of 1 lime 2 medium jalapeño chiles, seeded and finely chopped 2 tablespoons fresh cilantro, finely chopped Preheat grill to medium-high heat.
Place remaining crushed pineapple,
Combine 1/2 cup crushed pineapple and juice, 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard and brown sugar in small blender or food processor for basting sauce. Cover; blend until smooth. Transfer to shallow bowl; set aside.
remaining Dijon mustard, lime juice and zest and chopped jalapenos in a small sauce pot. Place on side grill burner or grill rack over medium-high heat and bring to a simmer, stirring often. Cook for 5 minutes, remove from heat and allow to cool for 20 minutes. Stir in cilantro.
Brush grill with cooking oil. Blot
shrimp with paper towel, removing any moisture. Baste one side of shrimp with pineapple basting sauce, then place on the grill sauce side down. Baste other side with sauce. Cook shrimp on grill about five minutes or until firm to the touch, basting the shrimp until sauce is gone; remove shrimp to a platter.
Place a spoonful of the sauce into 4 to
5 small (4 oz.) jelly jars or similar size cup or martini glass. Arrange 3 to 4 shrimp on the rim of the jars or glasses with the tails on the outside; serve immediately.
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on the cover:
Citrus Barbecue Chicken
Harissa Meatball Pineapple Kabobs with Greek Yogurt Mint Sauce & Goat Cheese Prep: 15 min. Cook: 35 min. Makes: 5 servings
Prep: 10 min. Cook: 15 min. Makes: 5 serv-
1 can (20 oz.) DOLE® Pineapple Chunks, drained, reserve juice
ings 1
½
cup barbecue sauce
1 teaspoon grated orange peel 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger 5 boneless, skinless chicken breasts 1 can (20 oz.) DOLE® Pineapple Slices Stir together barbecue sauce, orange peel, ginger in small bowl. Grill or broil chicken breasts 8 minutes, brushing with one-half sauce. Turn chicken over, add pineapple slices to grill. Brush chicken and slices with remaining sauce. Continue grilling 8 to 10 minutes or until chicken is no longer pink in center and slices are lightly browned. Garnish with orange wedges and parsley, if desired.
/ 3
cup orange marmalade
2 teaspoons black pepper, divided 1-¼ teaspoons salt, divided ¼
cup plain Greek yogurt
¼
cup fresh chopped mint, divided
Combine ground beef, harissa, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper, 2 tablespoons yogurt, and bread crumbs in a large mixing bowl; blend well. Roll into 15 meatballs (2 to 2-½ tablespoons each) and place on baking sheet.
1 lb. ground beef 2 teaspoons harissa seasoning ¼
Place saucepan with juice on the grill over medium-high heat. Add marmalade, 1 teaspoon pepper, ¼ teaspoon salt, and chopped pineapple. Heat to boiling; reduce heat and simmer 20 minutes or until thickened, stirring occasionall y. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly; add 2 tablespoons yogurt and 2 tablespoons mint.
cup Italian-seasoned breadcrumbs
4 oz. crumbled goat cheese, optional Coat grill with cooking spray; heat to between 500°F and 600°F. Pre-soak 5 wooden skewers (10-inch) in water for 10 minutes. Place reserved juice in small sauce pan. Remove 25 pineapple chunks and set aside on a plate for skewering. Chop remaining fruit to add to sauce.
Skewer a piece of fruit, a meatball, two more pieces of fruit, another meatball, two more pieces of fruit and an additional meatball on wooden skewers. Repeat this pattern for remaining skewers. Place kabobs on grill, and close the lid. Cook skewers 12 to 15 minutes or until cooked through, rotating the kabobs every 3 minutes. Remove skewers to a baking sheet and let rest for 5 minutes. Serve skewers with sauce and garnish with chopped mint and goat cheese, if desired. Serve additional sauce in a bowl on the side.
Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day
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Grilled Pesto and Pineapple Turkey Burgers Prep: 20 min. Cook: 25 min. Makes: 10 servings 6 cups spinach 2 lbs. lean ground turkey ½
cup prepared pesto sauce, divided
2 tablespoons olive oil Salt and pepper, to taste 10 slices Monterey jack cheese 10 green leaf lettuce leaves 1 can (20 oz.) DOLE® Pineapple Slices, drained 10 kaiser or hamburger rolls, sliced Process spinach to a food processor until finely chopped. Combine turkey, spinach, ¼ cup pesto sauce, and olive oil in a large bowl. Gently mix until incorporated. Form mixture into 10 patties. Season patties with salt and pepper. Grill meat until no longer pink inside. Add pineapple slices to grill the last 5 to 10 minutes and cook until golden brown.
Grilled Pizza with Canadian Bacon and Charred Pineapple
Toast buns on grill. Spread remaining pesto sauce on bottom half of each bun.
Prep: 25 min. Cook: 25 min. Makes: 6 servings 1 can (20 oz.) DOLE® Pineapple Tidbits, drained ½
cup green onions, thinly sliced diagonally, divided
1
teaspoon salt
1
teaspoon black pepper
/ 8 / 8
Vegetable oil, as needed 8 oz. Canadian bacon, sliced ¼-inch thick 1 lb. fresh pizza dough 1 to 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon olive oil, divided 2 cups coarsely grated Fontina cheese 1 cup arugula 1 teaspoon white balsamic vinegar Preheat gas grill with lid down to medium heat Combine pineapple, ¼ cup green onions, salt and pepper in small bowl. Place a double sheet of heavy duty foil on part of grill grate. Lightly brush foil with oil. Spread fruit mixture on foil; grill, turning fruit often until lightly charred. Remove foil and fruit from grill, set aside.
Meanwhile, brush small section of grill grate with oil. Cook Canadian bacon on both sides until grill marks appear. Remove slices and coarsely chop; set aside. Turn one burner to high and other burners to medium low. Divide pizza dough in half. On floured surface, roll and stretch each half to a 10 x 5-inch rectangle. Brush ½ tablespoon olive oil on one side of each crust; place oil-side down on grill plate and place over medium-low side of grill. Cook with lid down 3 to 5 minutes or until golden brown on bottom, breaking up any large bubbles in crust, if necessary with tongs. Brush top of crusts with remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil before turning crust to grill second side. Quickly top each crust with 1 cup cheese to ½-inch of edges. Top each with bacon and fruit mixture. Cook with lid down 3 to 5 minutes or until golden brown and crisp on bottom and cheese starts to melt. Meanwhile, toss together arugula, remaining ¼ cup green onions, 1 teaspoon olive oil and balsamic vinegar in small bowl. Evenly divide arugula mixture over pizzas.
Place burger on bun. Top with cheese, grilled pineapple slice, and lettuce. Place bun on top.
macadamia double-decker brownie bars These gorgeous two-layer bars have a brownie base topped with a gooey nut-and-coconut-studded topping. Yields 48 bars FOR THE BROWNIE LAYER Cooking spray 6 oz. (12 Tbs.) unsalted butter, cut into large chunks 1½ cups granulated sugar 2 ¼ oz. (¾ cup) unsweetened cocoa powder (natural or Dutch processed) ¼ tsp. table salt 2 large eggs 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract 3½ oz. (¾ cup) unbleached all-purpose flour FOR THE MACADAMIA LAYER ½ cup firmly packed light brown sugar 1½ oz. (��� cup) unbleached all-purpose flour ��� cup light corn syrup 1½ oz. (3 Tbs.) unsalted butter, melted 1½ tsp. pure vanilla extract 2 large eggs 1 ½ cups roughly chopped salted macadamia nuts ��� cup sweetened coconut flakes
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F. Line the bottom and sides of a 9x13-inch baking pan with foil, leaving some overhang on the sides, and spray with cooking spray. MAKE THE BROWNIE LAYER
In a medium saucepan over medium heat, whisk the butter until it is melted. Remove the pan from the heat and add the sugar, cocoa powder, and salt. Whisk until well blended, about 1 minute. Add the eggs and vanilla and whisk until smooth. Add the flour and stir with a rubber spatula until blended. Scrape into the prepared pan and spread evenly. Bake until the top is shiny and dry-looking and the brownie springs back very sli ghtly when pressed with a fingertip, about 20 minutes. (The brownie should not be completely baked.) Remove from the oven and put on a rack. MAKE THE MACADAMIA TOPPING WHILE THE BROWNIE LAYER IS BAKING
breaking up any large clumps. Add the corn syrup, melted butter, and vanilla. Whisk until blended, about 1 minute. Add the eggs and whisk just until combined, about 30 seconds. (Don’t overmix or the batter will be foamy.) Add the nuts and coconut and stir with a rubber spatula until evenly blended. Pour the macadamia topping over the warm, partially baked brownie layer. Using a spatula, carefully spread the mixture into an even layer. Return the pan to the oven and bake until the top is golden brown, 37 to 40 minutes. Transfer the pan to a rack to cool completely. (At this point, the entire pan can be wrapped in plastic wrap, then foil, and frozen for up to 1 month.) Using the foil as handles, lift the rectangle from the pan and invert onto a work surface. Carefully peel away the foil. Flip right side up. Using a sharp knife, cut into 2x2-inch squares and then cut each square into triangles.
In a large mixing bowl, combine the brown sugar and flour. Whisk until well blended,
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 99
DESSERTS
mixed berry tarts with lemony filling You can decorate these delicious tarts with berries before serving them, or set out dishes of tarts berries and let guests garnish their own tarts with the berries of their choice. Yields eight 4¾-inch tarts 1 recipe Buttery Shortbread Pastry Dough (at right) All-purpose flour, for the work surface Cooking spray ½ cup heavy cream 1 cup Lemon Curd (at right) 1 cup each fresh raspberries, blueberries, and blackberries or boysenberries (rinsed, picked over, and dried), placed in separate bowls
Have ready eight 4¾-inch fluted tart pans with removable bottoms (see Sources, see p. 117). Working quickly, shape the dough into an 8-inch-long log and divide it into eight equal pieces. On a lightly floured surface, roll a piece of dough into a 5-inch round. Gently press the dough into a tart pan. Repeat with the remaining dough. Put the tarts on a baking sheet and chill in the refrigerator for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 400°F. Cut out eight roughly 6-inchsquare pieces of foil and spray one side lightly with nonstick cooking spray. Line each tart with a square of foil, oiled side down, being sure to gently fold the foil over the top edge of the tart. Place a handful of pie weights, raw rice, or dried beans into each lined tart. Transfer the tarts (still on the baking sheet) to the oven and bake until the crust turns golden brown and starts to pull away from the sides of the pans, 25 to 30 minutes. (Check the color by carefully lifting up the foil on a few of the tarts.) Let the tarts cool on the baking sheet on a rack for 5 minutes. Ca refully
remove the lining and weights. Let cool completely on the baking sheet on the rack. In a medium bowl, whip the cream to soft peaks. Add the lemon curd and gently fold together with a rubber spatula until combined. Divide the mixture among the pastry shells and smooth the filling with a spatula or the back of a spoon. The filling should be no higher than the edge of the tart shell. Carefully remove the outer rings and bottoms of the tart shells (use a metal spatula for the bottoms) and arrange the tarts on a l arge platter. Top Top each tart with a mixture of raspberries, blueberries, and blackberries, and serve immediately.
lemon curd This recipe makes more than you need for the tarts at left, but once you taste this lemon curd, the leftovers will disappear before you know it. Yields about 1¾ cups 3 large eggs ��� cup granulat gran ulated ed sugar suga r ½ cup fresh lemon juice (from about 2 large lemons) 6 Tbs. unsalted butter 1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest
In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs until well blended. Combine the sugar, lemon juice, butter, and lemon zest in a small (1- to 2-quart) saucepan. Gently heat over medium-low heat until the butter has melted. Don’t let the mixture come to a boil. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk
the lemon mixture into the beaten eggs. Pour the mixture back into the saucepan and cook gently over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with the whisk, until the mixture thickens and reaches at least 160°F, 160°F, about 5 minutes. Again, don’t let the mixture boil. Let the lemon curd cool briefly before transferring it to a heatproof container. Press a piece of plastic wrap onto the surface of the curd and poke a few holes in it with the tip of a knife—this will keep a skin from forming on the curd. Refrigerate until completely chilled. The curd will continue to thicken as it cools. It will keep, covered, in the refrigerator for up to a week.
buttery butte ry sho shortb rtbre read ad pastry dough
In a food processor, combine the flour, butter, egg, sugar, cream, lemon juice, and salt and pulse until the dough starts gathering together in big clumps 1 . Turn the dough out onto a counter and gather it together 2 . Shape the dough as directed in the Mixed Berry Tart recipe at left.
1
This versatile dough can be used for everything from tarts to turnovers. The dough is quite soft, but all the butter in the recipe makes it forgiving and easy to work with. When baked, the crust is very tender— almost like a shortbread dough cookie. Yields enough dough for 8 mini tarts (or 1 single pie crust or 12 turnovers)
2
9 oz. (2 cups) bleached allpurpose flour 7 oz. (14 Tbs.) chilled unsalted unsalted butter, butter, cut into 1-inch pieces 1 large egg, lightly beaten 2 Tbs. granulated sugar 1 Tbs. chilled heavy cream 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice 1 tsp. table salt
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 101
This chocolate cake doesn’t look like much while whole, but the slices reveal what looks like 11 layers of cake—actually cookies softened by the coffee-flavored coffee- flavored whipped cream filling.
102 G R I L L I N G 2 0 1 6
coffee and cream icebox cake Coffee and hazelnuts give this cake—a variation on Nabisco’s Famous Wafer Roll recipe—a more sophisticated sophisticated flavor. To be safe, buy two boxes of cookies, as some may break. This cake slices best after 2 days in the refrigerator. Serves 8 1¾ cups heavy cream 1 Tbs. instant espresso powder 1 Tbs. sugar 44 Nabisc o Famous Chocolate Wafers ¼ cup finely finely chopped, toasted hazelnuts, for garnish ¼ cup crushed chocolate wafer cookie crumbs
Lightly grease a 6-cup loaf pan. Line the pan with two pieces of overlapping plastic wrap, allowing the excess to hang over the edges of the pan. In a bowl, combine the cream, espresso powder, and sugar. Whisk until the cream holds firm peaks. Spoon about two-thirds of the whipped cream into the prepared pan. Tap the pan firmly on the counter to even the cream and eliminate any air bubbles. Starting at a short side of the pan, arrange 11 cookies in the cream, standing them on their edge in a row like dominoes. Gently squeeze the cookies together as you go.
Do the same with a second row of cookies, slightly overlapping the cookies from the second row with the cookies in the first row (see photos below). Continue with two more rows for a total of four rows. Press down on the cookies gently. Cover them with the remaining cream. Smooth the cream with a spatula, gently p ressing to make sure any gaps between the cookies are filled. Tap the pan on the counter several times to eliminate any air pockets. Cover the cake with the excess plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 24 hours, preferably 2 days. When ready to serve, peel the plastic wrap from the top and gently tug on the plastic to loosen the cake from the sides of the pan. Set a cutting board on top of the pan and invert the cake onto the board. Lift the pan off and gently peel away the plastic wrap. Mix the hazelnuts with the cookie crumbs and sprinkle over the top of the cake. Slice carefully with a warm knife.
assemble the cake
Line up the cookies in slightly overlapping overlapping rows. Gently squeeze the cookies together as you go to bring the bottom layer of whipped cream up between them.
Spread the remaining coffee cream over and in between the cookies. Gently press down with the spatula to be sure the cream is filling any hard-to-reach pockets.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 103
DESSERTS
classic key lime pie If you can’t find fresh Key limes, you can substitute common lime juice, which will be tart but without the floral notes found in Key limes. Bottled Key lime juice is an even better choice as long as it’s 100% juice. The pie needs to chill for at least 5 hours before serving. You can bake and chill it up to a day ahead, but don’t top it until you’re ready to ser ve. Serves 8 FOR THE CRUST 4½ oz. (1 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour; more as needed 1� � � oz. (��� cup) cake flour 1 tsp. granulated sugar ¼ tsp. table salt 4 oz. (½ cup) cold unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces ¼ cup ice-cold water 1 tsp. cider vinegar FOR THE FILLING AND TOPPING 4 large egg yolks 1 14-oz. can sweetened condensed milk ½ cup fresh Key lime juice (from 14 to 16 limes) or bottled Key lime juice (preferably Manhattan brand) 1½ cups cold heavy cream 1 oz. (¼ cup) confectioners’ sugar ¾ tsp. pure vanilla extract MAKE THE CRUST
In a food processor, pulse the flours, sugar, and salt to combine. Add the butter and begin cutting it into smaller pieces wi th four 1-second pulses. In a small bowl, combine the water and vinegar. While pulsing, gradually add the liquid
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in a thin stream through the feed tube until the dough forms several large clumps, 20 to 30 pulses. The butter should still be visible in small pieces. Gather and press the dough into a 1-inchthick disk. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 1 and up to 24 hours. Dust a work surface and both sides of the dough lightly with flour. Flatten the dough slightly by tapping it all over with a rolling pin, then roll the dough out into a 12-inch circle. Try to make the circle as even as possible, but don’t be concerned about rough edges. Roll the dough around the rolling pin and carefully unroll over a 9-inch glass or metal pie plate. Gently press it into the bottom and up the sides of the pan without stretching it. With scissors, trim the overhanging dough to ½ inch beyond the rim of the plate. Fold the overhang under and crimp decoratively. Wrap the crust in plastic and refrigerate for at least 1 and up to 24 hours. Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. Line the crust with aluminum foil and fill with dried beans or pie weights. Put the crust on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until the
edge is firm and pale golden, 20 to 25 minutes. Carefully remove the foil and beans. Prick the bottom of the crust all over with a fork. Continue baking until golden brown, 8 to 12 minutes. (If the pastry puffs up, gently prick it with a toothpick.) Transfer to a wire rack and let cool to room temperature. FILL AND BAKE THE PIE
Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F. In a medium bowl, vigorously whisk the egg yolks by hand until slightly thickened, about 1 minute. Gently whisk in the sweetened condensed milk until combined, then whisk in the lime juice; the filling will thicken just a bit. Scrape the filling into the crust and spread it evenly. Bake on a rimmed baking sheet for 20 minutes—the filling will be only partially set. Cool to room temperature on a rack, then refrigerate until the filling is completely set, at least 5 and up to 24 hours. (If refrigerating for more than 5 hours, cover the pie with plastic wrap.) TOP THE PIE
Chill a metal bowl and the beater(s) of an electric mixer. In the chilled bowl, combine the cream, confectioners’ sugar, and vanilla. Beat on medium-high speed to firm peaks. Spoon the cream over the filling, swirling it attractively. Slice and serve.
grilled peaches with pound cake and ginger crème fraîche If you can’t find crème fraîche, use low-fat vanilla yogurt and omit the sugar. Serves 6 5 Tbs. unsalted butter 2 Tbs. granulated sugar 1 cup (8 oz.) thick crème fraîche Vegetable oil, for greasing the grill 3 ripe but firm peaches or nectarines, halved and pitted 6 slices pound cake (1 inch thick) 3 Tbs. chopped crystallized ginger
Heat a gas grill to high, covered, and when it’s hot, turn it to medium (this will get the grates sufficiently heated). Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat on the stovetop. In a bowl, whisk the sugar into the crème fraîche until smooth.
Use a grill brush and then a lightly oiled rag secured on long tongs to clean the grill thoroughly. Brush the cut sides of each peach half and both sides of the pound cake slices liberally with the melted butter. Grill the peaches cut side down, uncovered, until lightly caramelized, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer them to a platter and cover with foil. Grill the pound cake slices on both sides until nicely toasted, about 3 minutes total. Cut each peach half into slices. Top each slice of pound cake with the sliced peaches. Spoon the crème fraîche over the peaches and scatter the crystallized ginger on top. Serve warm.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 105
test kitchen Tips • Techniques • ingredienTs
Thick, juicy, and tender, porterhouse steaks are an excellent choice for a cookout.
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GLOSSARY
Favorite cuts that love the fire There’s nothing quite as satisfying as a beautiful steak grilled over a hardwood fire. The ritual of building the fire, the aroma of smoke, and the mouthwatering flavor of grilled beef all contribute to the uncomplicated pleasure of this summer tradition. Here is a look at three of our favorite steaks for the grill.
PORTERHOUSE (shown at left) is the iconic steak for the grill for good reason: composed of the tenderloin and the loin, it’s magnificent when cut to a luxuriously thick 2 inches, which can serve 3 to 4 people. Try to keep the tenderloin over the cooler part of the grill as it will cook more quickly.
FLANK STEAK This boneless cut from the belly area of the steer is full of rich, beefy flavor and has a pleasantly chewy texture. Its coarse and loose grain absorbs marinades beautifully (as does the similar, though thinner, skirt steak). Grill over a hot fire, but keep its thinner tapered end toward a cooler spot. Slice across the grain.
RIB-EYE This is an exceptionally flavorful, tender, and juicy steak. Rib-eye comes boneless or bone-in; both are great for the grill, though bone-in offers more flavor. It’s best when cut at least 1½ inches thick. The deep, beefy flavor of ribeye holds up well to most dry rubs and marinades, too.
TECHNIQUE
Cutting across the grain
TIP
In the Grilled Denver Steak on p. 29, we call for slicing the steak across the grain (perpendicular to its muscle fibers). Doing so makes the steak seem tenderer because it shortens the length of the fibers, so chewing is easier. The tricky part of this is that if you lay a steak flat and slice it, you’re actually cutting it w ith the grain. Here’s the solution to this problem:
Perfectly grilling vegetables For delicious grilled veggies like the Grilled Sweet Potato Fries on p. 84, you’ll want to follow a few guidelines: •
•
Cut the steak with the grain into 1- to 2-inch sections. •
•
•
1
Flip each section onto a cut side and slice it—you’re now cutting across the grain.
•
•
•
•
2
Always coat the vegetables with a thin layer of olive oil to help them cook evenly. Sprinkle with kosher salt or sea salt (and freshly ground pepper, if you like). The salt is essential: It helps draw out the natural sugars and promote caramelization. Morton kosher salt is preferred for grilled food because it has large grains that don’t melt quickly. When grilling vegetables, the grill fire, whether charcoal or gas, should be medium to medium hot. If the grill is too hot, the vegetables will burn on the outside and be undercooked inside. Be sure the cooking grate is clean and hot. Arrange the vegetables in the opposite direction of the cooking grate to keep them from falling into the fire. Turn the vegetables with tongs. Slide the tongs gently under the center of the food in the thickest part when turning. In general, turn the vegetables only once halfway through the cooking time. Remove vegetables like zucchini and asparagus when they’re crisp-tender; they’ll continue to cook after they come off the grill. Bell peppers and eggplant, however, should be grilled until soft all the way through. Taste the grilled vegetables while they’re still warm, and if they need more salt, add it before the vegetables cool down. Experiment with all kinds of vegetables. Even Brussels sprouts taste better from the grill.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 107
test kitchen
INGREDIENT
Annatto
Annatto and Mexican oregano The authentic flavor of the Yucatecan Grilled Fish Tacos on p. 60 comes partly from a couple of seasonings that may not be familiar to many cooks outside of Mexico: annatto seeds and Mexican oregano. Brick red and triangular, annatto seeds (also called achiote) are a common spice in Mexican cooking, especially in the Yucatan, where they’re toasted and ground into flavorful pastes. The seeds impart an earthy flavor and an orangeyellow hue. (In the U.S., they’re used commercially to color foods like Cheddar cheese and margarine.) Mexican oregano looks similar to Mediterranean oregano, but
Mexican has a stronger resinous and earthy flavor. (The plants are from different but closely related botanical families.) While you can substitute the l atter in recipes calling for Mexican oregano, it won’t impart the same robust flavor. Look for dried Mexican oregano and annatto seeds at well-stocked supermarkets and Latin markets (for a mail-order source, see Sources, p. 117). Like other spices, they should be stored in a cool, dark place in an airtight container, where they’ll last for years, although their flavor may dissipate over time.
EQUIPMENT
A really great grate One of our newest Test Kitchen finds is the GrillGrate, a cooking grate with a flat, slotted bottom and raised rails that fits over your existing grill grate. Made of highly conductive aluminum, the grate amplifies and evens out the heat across the grill. The grate produces excellent grill marks on steaks and chops, but we especially appreciate it when barbecuing chicken because its design eliminates the flare-ups that so often burn it to a crisp. The GrillGrate requires no special cleaning and develops a stick-resistant coating the more you use it. It comes in different shapes and sizes to fit rectangular and round grills, and the pieces interlock for a custom fit; prices range from $39.99 to $119.99, depending on size. The grate also comes with a pronged spatula that, while not necessary for using the grate, fits nicely between the rails for easy flipping. For where to buy the GrillGrate, see p. 117.
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Mexican oregano
TIP
A quick way to peel a ton of garlic The Cuban Pork with Mojo recipe on p. 42 calls for a whopping 50 cloves of garlic. You could buy peeled garlic to save yourself the peeling step, but if it’s not available, use this trick: To peel many cloves at once, put the cloves in a big metal bowl, and cover them with another metal bowl bottom side up. Then, while holding the bowls tightly together, shake like crazy. Not only is this kind of fun, but it also takes most of the skins right off.
TECHNIQUE
Removing rib silverskin Whether you’re cooking pork baby backs or spareribs, such as the HerbRubbed Pork Spareribs with Honey-Lemon Glaze on p. 45, you’ll want to be sure that the membrane, or silverskin, covering the bone side of each rack gets removed. If left on, it keeps seasonings and smoke from penetrating the meat, and it cooks into an unpleasant leathery skin on the ribs. Some racks are sold with the silverskin already removed, but you probably won’t know this until you open the package. If the silverskin is still intact, removing it is simple:
1
Slide a table knife under the silverskin anywhere along the rack. If it resists in one spot, try another. Lift and loosen it with the knife until you can grab it with a paper towel.
2
Pull it off the ribs; it should peel away in one large sheet, but if it breaks, use the knife to restart at another section.
TECHNIQUE
A clean grill means less sticking It’s always a good idea to start with thoroughly cleaned and oiled grill grates. That way, there’s no flavor transfer from the last thing you grilled, and foods are less likely to stick to the grates. To clean the grates, heat them first to soften the stuck-on gunk and then scrub them with a stiff wire grill brush. Next, fold a paper towel into a little pad, grasp it with long-handled tongs, and dip it in some cooking oil. Quickly swab the grates with the towel, cleaning and oiling them at the same time. Repeat this step until the grates seem clean, and then cover the grill briefly to let it heat up again. If you’re grilling something that tends to stick, like fish, give the grates another swipe of oil just before the food goes on.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 109
test kitchen
GLOSSARY
TECHNIQUE
Chiffonade: fine shreds of leafy herbs or lettuces A basil or mint chiffonade (which means “made of rags” in French) is a beautiful and flavorful accent for fruit or pasta salads, such as the Shells with Arugula, Feta, and Sun-Dried Tomatoes on p. 91. Here’s how to cut a chiffonade. Stack about 10 leaves into a neat pile. With practice, you may find that you can handle more than 10 at a time.
Pork butt: it’s not what it sounds like Despite the images conjured by its name, pork butt doesn’t come from the rear end of a pig. It’s actually from the other end—the shoulder—and is composed of the upper part of the front leg and the shoulder blade. Many supermarkets label it as a pork shoulder blade Boston roast, but you may also see it called Boston butt or Boston shoulder. Regardless of its name, this is the cut favored by barbecuers for recipes like the North Carolina–Style Pulled Pork on p. 40 because its relatively high fat content—25% to 30%—bastes the meat during cooking, keeping it moist and juicy.
1 Roll the pile of leaves lengthwise into a fairly tight cigar shape.
2
Two ways to measure propane
Use your sharpest knife to slice across the cigar. The closer together the slices, the finer your chiffonade will be.
There’s nothing more annoying than running out of propane in the middle of a barbecue, so before you fire up your gas grill, check the fuel level in the propane tank. If your grill doesn’t have a built-in fuel gauge, here are two other ways to check:
3 Fluff the chiffonade with your fingertips to separate the shreds. The cut edges will darken quickly, so use the chiffonade as soon as possible.
4
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EQUIPMENT
THE HOT WATER METHOD
THE SCALE METHOD
Disconnect the tank from the grill and stand it upright. Pour a quart of hot tap water down one side—the propane inside the tank will quickly absorb the heat, leaving the tank cold below the fuel and warm above it. Slide your hand down the side of the tank where you poured the water, feeling the temperature. The point at which the tank becomes cold marks the level of the propane. Knowing that a completely full 20-pound tank (which holds about 4.7 gallons of propane) lasts about 20 hours, you can now estimate how much cooking time remains.
Disconnect the tank from the grill and set it upright on a bathroom scale. Subtract 18 pounds (the weight of the tank); the difference is the weight of the propane remaining in the tank. Each pound of propane equals about one hour of cooking time. Note: Cooking times are averages
and will vary depending on the BTU output of your grill.
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test kitchen
INGREDIENT
Fish steaks vs. fillets
GLOSSARY
Mojo, a magical sauce In English, the word mojo is pronounced moe-joe and means magic power. In Spanish and in cooking parlance, the word is pronounced moe-hoe and refers to a citrusy garlic sauce, like the one on p. 42. Mojo the sauce is still magical: It can be used as a marinade, dressing, dip, condiment, and, of course, sauce. Popular throughout the Caribbean and in Latin America, its specific makeup differs from place to place as each region puts its own local stamp on it. Additional flavorings include onion, butter, or cilantro. Mojos may be raw or cooked, which mellows and sweetens the garlic.
The Grilled Salmon Steaks with Sea Salt, Chile, and Lime Butter on p. 61 and the Grilled Salmon with WasabiGinger Mayonnaise on p. 62 call for two different cuts of fish: steaks and fillets. A fish fillet (bottom) is one whole, boneless side of a fish. It may be skin-on or skinless. Fillets from large fish like salmon are frequently cut into individual portions, which are also called fillets. A fish steak (top) usually refers to a cross-cut portion of a large fish like salmon or halibut. It comes bone-in and skin-on. It can be confusing, but fillets from big, meaty fish like tuna and swordfish are often referred to as steaks as well, even though they’re technically fillets. For most cooking, fillets and steaks are essentially interchangeable, and the choice between the two usually comes down to aesthetics and whether you feel like dealing with fish bones. On the grill, however, steaks behave better than fillets because the skin and bones help hold the fish together. (And though they’re really fillets, meaty fish “steaks” grill well because they’re firm to begin with.)
EQUIPMENT
Three tools for lighting charcoal A charcoal fire started with lighter fluid tends to impart a chemical flavor to grilled foods, so we recommend these three alternatives. CHIMNEY A chimney is a wide metal
tube with a handle that has two interior compartments separated by a grate. The deep top section is for coals, and the shallow bottom section underneath is for newspaper. Once the paper is ignited, the tall, narrow shape directs the heat up through the coals while keeping out any wind that might blow out the flame. It takes about 30 minutes until the coals are ready for grilling. A Looftlighter works by forcing superheated air (about 1250°F) onto the charcoal to ignite it. To use it, plug in the Looftlighter and point it at the base of the coals. Press LOOFTLIGHTER
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the tool’s button and hold it in position for about a minute until flames appear. At this point, it takes about 20 minutes for the coals to burn down, but you can speed up the process by continuing to blast the coals for another 5 to 6 minutes until they are ashed over. ELECTRIC CHAR-
This device has a long looped metal coil with a heat-resistant plastic body. Mound your coals on top of the coil and turn it on. The coil takes about 10 minutes to ignite the coals surrounding it. After removing the coil, the coals will take about 20 minutes longer to ash over. COAL STARTER
From left, chimney, Looftlighter, electric charcoal starter.
TECHNIQUE
How to peel a melon If you’re cutting up a melon for a recipe like the Grilled Lamb Chops with Watermelon-Feta Salad on p. 34, it’s easier to peel it first. But because they’re large and round, melons can be awkward to peel. Here’s how we like to tackle them: With a chef’s knife, slice off about ½ inch from the ends, enough to expose a circle of flesh. Slice the melon in half crosswise and seed if necessary. Set one of the halves on the large cut side. Slice down the side, following the curve of the melon, deep enough to remove all of the peel without removing the flesh. Cut all the way around, going back to remove any small bits of peel that may remain. Repeat with the other half.
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113
test kitchen
TIP
The best barbecue chicken The recipe for Barbecued Chicken on p. 49 is flavorful and delicious for many reasons. Here are some guidelines we followed in developing that recipe that would be helpful to keep in mind: You want a good amount of dark meat. The legs are richer and fattier than breasts, and the extra bit of fat goes a long way toward keeping the meat from drying out. Use a spice rub and a sauce. Sprinkle the rub on the chicken before cooking so it can penetrate and flavor the meat. Brush the sauce on at the end of cooking to give the chicken another layer of flavor and a deliciously glazed exterior. For a charcoal grill, use hardwood lump charcoal. It burns hotter than briquettes, and it lights quickly, so if you have to add more during cooking, you can just scatter unlit pieces on top of the lit ones. Charcoal briquettes, which are made from compressed hardwood by-products and additives, take longer to light and can give off a chemical or sooty aroma while doing so. Keep the temperature between 300°F and 350°F so that the meat doesn’t cook too quickly and dry out. If your grill doesn’t have a built-in thermometer, drop a heatproof probe thermometer through its top vent. Add wood chips early. Smoke penetrates the chicken best when it’s close to raw. If you add chips throughout cooking, the meat may taste sooty.
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TECHNIQUE
Faster green bean prep Trimming a couple of pounds of bea ns for the Green Bean Salad on p. 89 might take you a while—if you trim them one at a time, that is. Here’s our strategy for quickly tackling a mound of beans:
Start at the store. When you pick out your green beans, don’t toss them into the bag in a jumble. Instead, pick them out one at a time and line them up in the bag with all the stems together. This takes a few extra minutes (and, yes, it does make you look a bit obsessive), but it’ll pay off at home. Plus, you won’t end up with any rejects, as you might if you pick your beans by the handful. Trim a handful at a time. Grab a small handful and lightly tap the stems on a cutting board until they’re all lined up. Cut all the stems off with a single chop of a chef’s knife. In the test kitchen, we like how the pretty tail ends look, so we trim only the stems. But if you’d rather or if the tails look less than perfect, feel free to trim them off, too.
Wash the beans after you trim. Now that they’re trimmed, you can toss them into the colander for rinsing without keeping them lined up.
EQUIPMENT
A Mexican lime juicer is perfect for Key limes Key limes are too small for most citrus squeezers, so when we need to squeeze a lot of them for recipes like the Classic Key Lime Pie on p. 104, we reach for a handheld Mexican lime juicer for easy juicing. If you’re unfamiliar with this kind of j uicer, the correct way to use it might seem counterintuitive. You put a lime half in the bowl of the juicer cut side down, which looks backwards. But the shape of the bowl combined with pressure from squeezing the handles together turns the lime inside out, forcing out every last drop of juice.
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ALL NEW SEASON 4! Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking returns for Season 4 with host Pete Evans stirring up fun. Join us for pop-up feasts across the country – new locations, new chefs and artisans, and fabulous new dishes .
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F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 115
CREDITS
Many of the recipes and photos in this issue have appeared previously in Fine Cooking . Listed here are the original authors and issue numbers. Unless otherwise noted, all photos are by Scott Phillips.
appetizers Grilled Scallops w�Rémoulade Sauce, from Grillin’ with Gas by Fred Thompson, photo: Ben Fink Grilled Watermelon Gazpacho w� Lime Crema, Samantha Seneviratne, #111 Grilled Beets w�Lemon Crème Fraîche Dip, Robert Hellen, #105, photo: Lisa Romerein Rustic Eggplant Dip ( Melanzanosalata), Susanne Hoffman, #93 Grilled “Salad” Pizzettes w�Balsamic Drizzle and Flavored Oils, from Fresh from the Farm by Susie Middleton (Taunton, 2014), photo: Alexandra Grablewski Bruschetta w�Grilled Eggplant and Vidalia Onion, Jessica Bard, #80 Bacon-Wrapped Stuffed Apricots, Allison Ehri Kreitler, #86
beef & lamb Grilled Porterhouse Steak with Chimichurri Sauce, Parke Ulrich, #129 Grilled Lamb Chops w�Charred Red Onion Chutney, Liz Pearson, #105 Grilled Boneless Leg of Lamb w�Black Olive Purée, Joanne Smart, #124, photo: Jennifer May Grilled Strip Steaks with Miso-Truffle Butter, Parke Ulrich, #129, photo: Eva Kolenko Grilled Denver Steak and Tomatoes w� Caper-Mustard Vinaigrette, Lynne Curry, #124 Champagne-Lavender Marinated Grilled Rib-Eye, Parke Ulrich, #129, photo: Eva Kolenko Korean Barbecued Beef Short Ribs (Kalbi ), Judy Joo, #123 Turkish Lamb Köfte, Pete Evans, #130 Carne Asada Tacos , Pat LaFrieda, #136 Grilled Lamb Chops w�WatermelonFeta Salad, Joanne Smart, #136 Beef Kebabs w�Cherry Peppers and Oregano, Tony Rosenfeld, #123
pork Cornmeal and Green Peppercorn Crusted Spareribs, Robert Hellen,
#105, photo: Lisa Romerein Grilled Asian Pork Tenderloin w� Peanut Sauce, Pam Anderson, #86 Bourbon-and-Vanilla-Brined Pork Chops, Bruce Aidells, #112 Grilled Pork Chops w�Sweet-andSour Onions, Tony Rosenfeld, #99 North Carolina–Style Pulled Pork, Elizabeth Karmel, #66 Cuban Pork with Mojo ( Lechon Asado con Mojo ), Julissa Roberts, #135, photo: Gabriella Herman Rum-Glazed Pork Skewers with Coconut Rice, Lorraine Perri, #129 Herb-Rubbed Pork Spareribs w�HoneyLemon Glaze, Rick Rodgers, #118
chicken Tex-Mex Beer-Can Chicken, Jamie Purviance,#135 Barbecued Chicken, Jamie Purviance, #123 Tuscan Grilled Chicken under a Brick, Steven Raichlen, #117 Chinese Grilled Chicken and Bibb Lettuce “Wraps,” from Fresh from the Farm by Susie Middleton (Taunton, 2014), photo: Alexandra Grablewski Grilled Chicken Tandoori, from Big Buy Cooking by Tony Rosenfeld, photo: Maren Caruso Island-Spiced, Pineapple-Glazed Grilled Chicken Breasts, Steve Raichlen, #59 Grilled Chicken Tacos, Jim Peyton, #64
seafood Maple-Rosemary Salmon Skewers, Ivy Manning, #131 Swordfish w�Black Olive and Mint Tapenade, from Big Buy Cooking by Tony Rosenfeld, photo: Maren Caruso Yucatecan Grilled Fish Tacos, Shelley Wiseman, #130 Grilled Salmon Steaks w�Sea Salt, Chile, and Lime Butter, Maria Helm Sinskey, #86 Grilled Salmon w�Wasabi-Ginger Mayonnaise, Molly Steves, #73
Fiesta Quinoa Salad w�Grilled Shrimp, Julissa Roberts, #135 Grilled Old Bay Shrimp w�Lemony Horseradish Cocktail Sauce, Elizabeth Karmel, #59 Grilled Tuna w�Puttanesca Sauce, Lorraine Perri, #128 Grilled Clams w�Garlic-Butter Sauce, Sam Hayward, #31, photo: Judi Rutz Moroccan Pasta w�Grilled Tuna, Joanne Weir, #39
burgers Banh Mi Burger, Julissa Roberts, Finecooking.com Web-only recipe Bacon Burgers w�Bacon-OnionBalsamic Jam, Bruce Aidells, #112 Beef Burgers w�Blue Cheese and Caramelized Onions,Bruce Weinstein and Mark Scarbrough, #117 Salmon Burgers w�Peanut Sauce, f rom Grillin’ with Gas by Fred Thompson, photo: Ben Fink Caramelized Onion Cheeseburgers, David Bonom, #100 Moroccan Chicken Burgers w�Feta and Carrot Slaw, Karen Tedesco, #130 Turkey Burgers w�Spicy Slaw, Ronne Day, #135 Thai Curry Turkey Burgers, Lori Longbotham, #117
vegetables Grilled Corn and Shallots, Ronne Day, #136 Grilled Artichoke Hearts, Alice Waters, #27, photo: Mark Thomas Grilled Zucchini with Spicy Peanut Sauce, Judith Fertig, #124 Grilled Corn on the Cob w�Thyme and Roasted Red Pepper Butter, Tony Rosenfeld, #86 Balsamic-Glazed Grilled Sweet Onions, Ruth Lively, #93 Grilled Eggplant Rolls w�Feta and Olives, Judith Fertig, #124 Grilled Sweet Potato Fries, Ronne Day, #135 Grilled Goat Cheese P izza w�Figs, Beets, and Wilted Greens, Pam Anderson, #111
salads Grilled Peach and Buffalo Mozzarella Salad, Melissa Pellegrino, #106 Grilled Southwestern Potato Salad, Tony Rosenfeld, #86 Green Bean Salad w�Tomatoes, Arugula, and Basil Dressing, Maryellen Driscoll, #93 Grilled Butter Lettuce w �ButtermilkChive Dressing, Robert Hellen, #105, photo: Lisa Romerein Shells w�Arugula, Feta, and Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Tony Rosenfeld, #51 Seven-Layer Grilled Southwestern Chicken Salad, Susie Middleton, #65 Steak Salad w�Grilled Red Onions, Lorraine Perri, #128 Avocado, Fennel, and Grapefruit Salad w�Grilled Shrimp, Allison Ehri Kreitler, Fine Cooking Fresh 2007 Basmati Rice Salad w�Mango and Cucumber, Joanne Weir, #93 Grilled Pepper Panzanella, Judith Fertig, #124 Chopped Grilled-Chicken Salad, Nadia Arumagum, #130
desserts Peach and Blueberry Crisp with Spiced-Pecan Topping, Nicole Rees, #93 Grilled Cinnamon-Sugar Bananas w�Vanilla Ice Cream and Bourbon, Elizabeth Karmel, Finecooking.com Web-only recipe Macadamia Double-Decker Brownie Bars, Abigail Johnson Dodge, #89 Mixed Berry Tarts w�Lemony Filling, Janie Hibler, #79 Coffee and Cream Icebox Cake, Heather Ho, #33 Classic Key Lime Pie, Greg Patent, #123 Grilled Peaches w�Pound Cake and Ginger Crème Fraîche, Lauren Groveman, #52
make it fresh Limoncello-Gin Cocktail w�Grilled Thyme, Robert Hellen, #105, photo: Lisa Romerein
Several recipes and photos in this issue were excerpted from these books: Grillin’ with Gas, by Fred Thompson (The Taunton Press, 2009). Photos © Ben Fink; food stylist: Fred Thompson.
Fresh from the Farm by Susie Middleton (The Taunton Press, 2014); photos © Alexandra Grablewski & Susie Middleton; food stylist: Mark Pederson.
Big Buy Cooking, by Fine Cooking (The Taunton Press, 2010). Photos © Maren Caruso; food stylist: Katie Christ.
SUSIE MIDDLETON
CO R IO LK L IFNRG E S2H0 1W6I N T E R 2 0 1 6 116 G
SOURCES
turkish lamb köe,
thai curry turkey burgers, page 77
page 32
From Amazon.com, 866-216-1072:
•
Steven Raichlen 12-inch flat, wide
•
Mae Ploy curry paste, $3.95 for 14 oz., Grocerythai.com, 818-469-9407.
bamboo skewers, $6.68 for 25.
From espicehouse.com, 847-328-3711: Pomegranate molasses, $3.99
•
for 4 oz. Ground sumac, $3.79 for 2½- oz. bag.
•
korean barbecued beef short ribs (kalbi), page 31 1 Korean red pepper chile threads, $1.50 for ⁄ 8 oz.,
•
Savoryspiceshop.com, 888-677-3322.
barbecued chicken, page 49 ThermoWorks digital probe
•
thermometertimer, $39,
From Hmart.com, 201-229-1111:
Thermoworks.com, 800-393-6434.
Haechandle hot pepper paste (gochujang), $5.99
•
for 500 g.
•
Haechandle soybean paste (dwenjang), $3.99
866-216-1072.
•
for 500 g.
Taylor digital instant-read thermometer, $14.99, Amazon.com,
Frontier lump charcoal, $13.99 for
•
test kitchen, page 106 •
Green metal lime squeezer, $10.99,
Coleman refillable butane lighter, $5,
•
Fluted tart pans, 4¾ -inch round, $5.19 each,
•
Mexican oregano, $3.09 for
•
Webstaurantstore.com, 717-392-7472.
From Penzeys.com, 800-741-7787: Annatto seeds, $3.45 for 4-oz. bag.
Coleman.com, 800-835-8378.
mixed berry tarts, page 101
Amazon.com, 866-216-1072.
•
20 lb., Lowes.com, 800-445-6937. •
GrillGrates, $39.99 to $119.99,
Mygrillgrate.com, 877-380-2527. •
Haioreum roasted sesame seeds, $4.79 for 8 oz.
•
Charcoal Companion V-shaped smoker box, $9.99, Basspro.com,
800-227-7776.
From Weber.com, 800-446-1071: 18-inch grill brush and scraper, $7.99.
•
•
1-oz. bag.
Stainless-steel locking barbecue tongs, $15.99.
Applewood or hickory chips, $4.99
•
grilled strip steaks with miso-truffle butter, page 28 •
for 3 lb. •
Rapidfire chimney starter, $17.99.
Strip steaks, courtesy of Omaha •
Beef, from $49.99 for two 14-oz. New York strips, Omahasteaks .com, 800-960-8400.
Lighter cubes,
$4.29 for 24.
cornmeal and green peppercorn crusted spareribs, page 38 Evan Williams Kentucky Straight bourbon whiskey,
•
$15.95 for 1 liter, Crownwineandspirits.com, 866-946-3830. St. Louis-style pork spareribs, $36.95 for 2 lb.,
•
Lobels.com, 877-783-4512.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 117
NUTRITION
RECIPE
CALORIES
FAT CAL
PROTEIN
CARB
TOTAL
SAT FAT
MONO
POLY
CHOL
SODIUM
FIBER
(KCAL)
(KCAL)
(G)
(G)
FAT (G)
(G)
FAT (G)
FAT (G)
(MG)
(MG)
(G)
APPETIZERS, p. 16
Grilled Scallops with Rémoulade Sauce
180
140
9
4
15
2
3.5
8
25
540
0
Grilled Watermelon Gazpacho with Lime Crema
120
80
1
12
8
3
4.5
.5
10
110
1
Grilled Beets with Lemon Crème Fraîche Dip
260
150
5
23
16
8
7
1
25
1030
4
Rustic Eggplant Dip ( Melanzanosalata) per 1 Tbs.
10
5
0
1
.5
0
0
0
0
35
1
Grilled “Salad” Pizzettes
290
100
10
37
11
3
6
1
15
500
2
Bruschetta with Grilled Eggplant and Vidalia Onion
230
110
4
26
13
4.5
7
1
20
380
4
Bacon-Wrapped Stuffed Apricots
180
90
7
16
10
4
3
1
20
280
2
830
570
58
3
64
15
40
5
175
430
1
BEEF & LAMB, p. 24
Grilled Porterhouse Steak with Chimichurri Sauce Grilled Lamb Chops with Charred Red Onion Chutney
330
180
29
6
20
4
11
3.5
90
1070
1
Grilled Boneless Leg of Lamb with Black Olive Purée
450
260
44
3
29
6
18
2.5
135
710
1
Grilled Strip Steaks with Miso-Truffle Butter
230
150
15
3
17
9
5
1
65
550
0
Grilled Denver Steak & Tomatoes w/Vinaigrette
340
210
24
9
23
6
14
2.5
85
600
2
Champagne-Lavender Marinated Grilled Rib-Eye
370
270
22
0
30
10
16
1.5
75
100
0
Korean Barbecued Beef Short Ribs ( Kalbi )
410
130
21
47
14
4
6
3
35
810
3
Ssamjang (per 1 Tbs.)
25
10
1
2
1
0
0
0
0
220
0
Turkish Lamb Köfte
300
170
21
10
19
7
8
2
80
290
1
Carne Asada Tacos
620
240
42
54
27
9
11
3
120
840
5
Grilled Lamb Chops with Watermelon-Feta Salad
480
270
34
18
31
11
15
2.5
120
1960
1
Beef Kebabs with Cherry Peppers and Oregano
430
260
36
7
29
6
18
2.5
80
1300
0
Cornmeal and Green Peppercorn Crusted Spareribs
600
340
38
25
38
13
16
7
130
810
2
Grilled Asian Pork Tenderloin with Peanut Sauce
300
110
39
7
12
3.5
2.5
.5
100
490
1
Bourbon-and-Vanilla-Brined Pork Chops
350
180
36
4
20
7
8
3.5
100
730
1
Grilled Pork Chops with Sweet-and-Sour Onions
370
190
25
21
21
4.5
13
2.5
60
760
3
North Carolina–Style Pulled Pork
490
200
40
30
22
7
11
3
130
1400
1
Lexington-Style Barbecue Sauce (per ½ cup)
100
0
0
27
0
0
0
0
0
1580
1
North Carolina Coleslaw
80
0
2
22
0
0
0
0
0
820
4
Cuban Pork with Mojo ( Lechon Asado con Mojo)
430
260
32
10
29
7
17
3
110
1400
1
Rum-Glazed Pork Skewers with Coconut Rice
550
190
25
53
22
8
7
5
80
720
3
Herb-Rubbed Pork Spareribs with Glaze
510
170
58
26
19
6
8
2
145
1060
1
PORK, p. 36
CHICKEN, p. 46
Tex-Mex Beer-Can Chicken
440
240
44
2
27
7
12
6
140
430
1
Barbecued Chicken
600
280
55
24
31
8
13
6
320
1300
1
Tuscan Grilled Chicken under a Brick
270
90
40
2
10
3
4
2
110
1350
0
Chinese Grilled Chicken and Bibb Lettuce “Wraps”
520
190
46
35
21
5
9
5
210
950
3
Grilled Chicken Tandoori
180
50
27
3
6
1.5
2
1.5
80
210
0
Island-Spiced Grilled Chicken Breasts
460
170
40
22
19
8
7
3
130
960
1
Grilled Chicken Tacos
410
180
23
33
21
4
8
6
60
910
3
Tomatillo Salsa (per 2½ Tbs.)
15
0
0
3
0
0
0
0
0
290
1
Pico de Gallo (per ¼ cup)
15
0
0
3
0
0
0
0
0
200
1
Guacamole (per ¼ cup)
110
90
1
6
10
1
7
1
0
200
4
SEAFOOD, p. 56
Maple-Rosemary Salmon Skewers
350
100
40
21
11
2
4
3.5
100
640
0
Swordfish with Black Olive and Mint Tapenade
470
300
33
8
34
5
23
4.5
60
1210
2
Yucatecan Grilled Fish Tacos
440
150
26
49
17
2.5
10
3
85
460
9
Grilled Salmon Steaks w/ Sea Salt, Chile & Lime Butter
410
240
40
1
27
12
9
3.5
105
450
0
Grilled Salmon with Wasabi-Ginger Mayonnaise
350
180
39
1
20
3
4
5
111
464
0
118 G R I L L I N G 2 0 1 6
RECIPE
CALORIES
FAT CAL
PROTEIN
CARB
TOTAL
SAT FAT
MONO
POLY
CHOL
SODIUM
FIBER
(KCAL)
(KCAL)
(G)
(G)
FAT (G)
(G)
FAT (G)
FAT (G)
(MG)
(MG)
(G)
Fiesta Quinoa Salad with Grilled Shrimp
540
170
36
60
19
2.5
11
3.5
170
550
9
Grilled Old Bay Shrimp with Cocktail Sauce
210
100
20
8
11
1
6
3
180
620
1
Grilled Tuna with Puttanesca Sauce
280
130
34
3
14
2.5
8
3
55
530
1
Grilled Clams with Sauce (per clam, w/ ½ tsp. sauce)
20
10
2
1
1.5
.5
.5
0
10
20
0
500
220
24
44
24
3
17
3
35
230
3
Banh Mi Burger
430
170
30
32
19
6
8
4
85
1230
2
Bacon Burgers with Bacon-Onion-Balsamic Jam
630
330
44
29
37
13
16
3.5
135
1310
2
Beef Burgers w/Blue Cheese and Caramelized Onions
820
470
45
42
52
28
11
1
280
1000
2
Salmon Burgers with Peanut Sauce
400
100
33
31
11
1.5
3.5
5
70
1100
2
25
15
1
2
2
0
1
.5
0
290
1
Caramelized Onion Cheeseburgers
740
450
43
27
50
16
20
10
140
930
2
Moroccan Chicken Burgers with Feta and Carrot Slaw
360
170
26
23
19
5
9
3
110
730
4
Turkey Burgers with Spicy Slaw
530
230
35
38
26
10
7
7
155
1140
2
Thai Curry Turkey Burgers
610
370
32
27
42
8
11
19
110
730
1
Grilled Corn and Shallots
190
120
3
18
14
4.5
7
1.5
15
140
2
Grilled Artichoke Hearts
50
0
3
10
0
0
0
0
0
270
5
Grilled Zucchini with Spicy Peanut Sauce
200
160
6
9
17
9
4
2.5
0
300
3
Grilled Corn on the Cob w/Red Pepper Butter
210
140
3
18
16
8
6
1.5
30
300
3
Balsamic-Glazed Grilled Sweet Onions
130
40
2
20
4.5
.5
3.5
.5
0
110
3
Moroccan Pasta with Grilled Tuna BURGERS, p. 68
Peanut Sauce
VEGETABLES, p. 78
Grilled Eggplant Rolls with Feta and Olives
70
50
2
4
6
2.5
3
0
10
190
1
Grilled Sweet Potato Fries
130
90
1
10
10
1.5
7
1
0
280
1
Grilled Goat Cheese Pizza w/Figs, Beets & Greens
540
210
21
68
23
10
7
1
35
1070
3
Grilled Peach and Buffalo Mozzarella Salad
210
120
7
16
14
6
6
1
30
75
1
Grilled Southwestern Potato Salad
270
150
6
27
17
3
11
2
5
610
4
Green Bean Salad w/Tomatoes, Arugula, and Dressing
230
160
8
10
18
16
9
1.5
30
410
4
Grilled Butter Lettuce with Buttermilk-Chive Dressing
40
30
2
2
3
1
1
1
5
60
1
Shells with Arugula, Feta, and Sun-Dried Tomatoes
270
90
9
36
10
3
5
1
15
470
1
Seven-Layer Grilled Southwestern Chicken Salad
420
260
31
11
29
6
16
5
70
1070
5
Steak Salad with Grilled Red Onions
450
290
30
9
32
10
19
2.5
90
590
2
Avocado, Fennel, and Grapefruit Salad with Shrimp
350
220
19
15
25
6
15
2.5
145
500
6
Basmati Rice Salad with Mango and Cucumber
320
130
4
45
14
2
10
2
0
290
1
Grilled Pepper Panzanella
190
130
3
14
14
2
10
1.5
0
150
3
Chopped Grilled-Chicken Salad
400
180
39
15
20
7
6
5
105
840
3
Peach and Blueberry Crisp with Pecan Topping
400
160
4
61
18
6
8
3.5
20
105
5
Grilled Cinnamon-Sugar Bananas
250
130
4
27
14
6
5
2
60
35
2
Macadamia Double-Decker Brownie Bars
130
70
1
16
8
3
3.5
0
25
35
1
Mixed Berry Tarts with Lemony Filling
560
330
8
51
38
23
10
2
205
340
3
50
25
1
5
3
1.5
1
0
30
10
0
Coffee and Cream Icebox Cake
380
240
4
33
26
14
9
2
75
300
1
Classic Key Lime Pie
520
300
8
48
34
20
10
1.5
200
150
1
Grilled Peaches w/Pound Cake and Crème Fraîche
400
260
3
34
29
18
8
2
135
150
2
150
0
0
8
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
SALADS, p. 86
DESSERTS, p. 96
Lemon Curd (per 2 Tbs.)
MAKE IT FRESH, p. 122
Limoncello-Gin Cocktail with Grilled Thyme
The nutritional analyses have been calculated by a registered dietitian at Nutritional Solutions in Melville, New York. When a recipe gives a choice of ingredients, the first choice is the one used. Optional ingredients with measured amounts are included; ingredients wi th out specific quantities are not. Analyses are per serving; when a range of ingredient amounts or servings is given, the smaller amount or portion is used. When the quantiti es of sal t and pepper are n’t specified, the analysis is based on ¼ ts p. salt and ��� tsp. pepper per serving for entrées, and ��� tsp. salt and ���� tsp. pepper per serving for side dis hes.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 119
RECIPE INDEX
Cover Recipes Barbecued Chicken ...................................49 Grilled Strip Steaks with Miso-TruffleButter...................... ...............28
Beef Bacon Burgers with BaconOnion-Balsamic Jam ............................... .70 Beef Burgers with Blue Cheese and Caramelized Onions ......................... 72 Beef Kebabs with Cherry Peppers and Oregano ...............................35 Caramelized Onion Cheeseburgers .... 74 Carne Asada Tacos ....................................33 Champagne-Lavender Marinated Grilled Rib-Eye........................30 Grilled Denver Steak and Tomatoes with CaperMustard Vinaigrette ...................................29 Grilled Porterhouse Steak with Chimichurri Sauce .....................................26
Grilled Asian Pork Tenderloin with Peanut Sauce .....................................38 Grilled Pork Chops with Sweet-and-Sour Onions ...................... ...40 Herb-Rubbed Pork Spareribs with Honey-Lemon Glaze ........................45 North Carolina–Style Pulled Pork ........ 40 Rum-Glazed Pork Skewers with Coconut Rice .....................................44
Lamb Grilled Boneless Leg of Lamb with Black Olive Purée...............................27 Grilled Lamb Chops with Charred Red Onion Chutney ..................26 Grilled Lamb Chops with Watermelon-FetaSalad................ ...........34 Turkish Lamb Köfte ....................................32
Poultry Barbecued Chicken ...................................49
Grilled Strip Steaks with Miso-TruffleButter...................... ...............28
Chinese Grilled Chicken and Bibb Lettuce “Wraps” ................................51
Korean Barbecued Beef Short Ribs (Kalbi ) ....................................... ..31
Chopped Grilled-Chicken Salad ........... 95
Steak Salad with Grilled Red Onions .... 92
Grilled Chicken Tandoori .........................52
Pork Banh Mi Burger ............................................70 Bourbon-and-Vanilla-Brined Pork Chops ...................................................39 Cornmeal and Green Peppercorn Crusted Spareribs..................................... .38 Cuban Pork with Mojo ............... ...............42
Grilled Chicken Tacos ...............................54 Island-Spiced, PineappleGlazed Grilled Chicken Breasts............. 52 Moroccan Chicken Burgers with Feta and Carrot Slaw ........................75
120 G R I L L I N G 2 0 1 6
Avocado, Fennel, and Grapefruit Salad with Grilled Shrimp......................... 93 Fiesta Quinoa Salad with Grilled Shrimp ..............................................63 Grilled Clams with GarlicButter Sauce ................................................66 Grilled Old Bay Shrimp with Lemony Horseradish Cocktail Sauce.............................................64 Grilled Salmon Steaks with Sea Salt, Chile, and Lime Butter .....................61 Grilled Salmon with WasabiGinger Mayonnaise ....................................62 Grilled Scallops with Rémoulade Sauce .......................................18 Grilled Tuna with Puttanesca Sauce ......................................65 Maple-Rosemary Salmon Skewers ..........................................58 Moroccan Pasta with Grilled Tuna ........66 Salmon Burgers with Peanut Sauce ..... 73 Swordfish with Black Olive and Mint Tapenade ....................................58 Yucatecan Grilled Fish Tacos .................60
Sandwiches Bacon Burgers with BaconOnion-Balsamic Jam .................. ..............70 Banh Mi Burger ............................................70
Seven-Layer Grilled Southwestern Chicken Salad ..............................................91
Beef Burgers with Blue Cheese and Caramelized Onions ......................... 72
Tex-Mex Beer-Can Chicken .. ..................48
Caramelized Onion Cheeseburgers.... 74
Thai Curry Turkey Burgers ....................... 77
Moroccan Chicken Burgers with Feta and Carrot Slaw ........................75
Turkey Burgers with Spicy Slaw ......... ....76 Tuscan Grilled Chicken under a Brick ...............................................50
p. 35
Fish & Shellfish
Salmon Burgers with Peanut Sauce ..... 73 Thai Curry Turkey Burgers ....................... 77 Turkey Burgers with Spicy Slaw ............. 76
p. 22
Grilled Zucchini with Spicy Peanut Sauce.......................................... ......81 North Carolina Coleslaw ...........................41 Shells with Arugula, Feta, and Sun-Dried Tomatoes .........................91
Toppings Lemony Horseradish Cocktail Sauce .............................................64 Lexington-Style Barbecue Sauce .......... 41 Mojo ................................................................42 Peanut Sauce.......................................... .....38 Sea Salt, Chile, and Lime Butter .............61 Ssamjang ........................................................31
Desserts & Beverages Classic Key Lime Pie ................................104 Coffee and Cream Icebox Cake ..........103
Salads
Green Bean Salad with Tomatoes, Arugula, and Basil Dressing ..................... 89
Avocado, Fennel, and Grapefruit Salad with Grilled Shrimp......................... 93
Grilled Artichoke Hearts ..........................80
Chopped Grilled-Chicken Salad ........... 95 Grilled Butter Lettuce with Buttermilk-Chive Dressing ......................90 Grilled Peach and Buffalo Mozzarella Salad .................................. .......88 Seven-Layer Grilled Southwestern Chicken Salad ...............................................91 Steak Salad with Grilled Red Onions ...................................................92
Starters
Grilled Corn and Shallots .........................80 Grilled Corn on the Cob with Thyme and Roasted Red Pepper Butter .....................................82 Grilled Goat Cheese Pizza with Figs, Beets, and Wilted Greens........................ 85 Grilled Eggplant Rolls with Feta and Olives......................................... ...84 Grilled Pepper Panzanella .......................94 Grilled Southwestern Potato Salad ......88 Grilled Sweet Potato Fries .......................84
Grilled Cinnamon-Sugar Bananas with Vanilla Ice Cream and Bourbon..................................98 Grilled Peaches with Pound Cake and Ginger Crème Fraîche........................................ ...105 Limoncello-Gin Cocktail with Grilled Thyme .............................................122 Macadamia Double-Decker Brownie Bars .................................... ............99 Mixed Berry Tarts with Lemony Filling......................................... ....101 Peach and Blueberry Crisp with Spiced-Pecan Topping ....................98
Bacon-Wrapped Stuffed Apricots ........ 23 Bruschetta with Grilled Eggplant and Vidalia Onion ......................22 Grilled Beets with Lemon Crème Fraîche Dip ......................................19
p. 89
Grilled “Salad” Pizzettes with Balsamic Drizzle and Flavored Oils .................................................21 Grilled Watermelon Gazpacho with Lime Crema..........................................18 Rustic Eggplant Dip (Melanzanosalata ) ....................................20
Sides Balsamic-Glazed Grilled Sweet Onions...............................................83
p. xx
Basmati Rice Salad with Mango and Cucumber ..............................94
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 121
MAKE IT FRESH
Cookout Cocktail Welcome guests to the party with this sweet-tart drink; its deliciously refreshing qualities are sure to help everyone beat the heat.
limoncello-gin cocktail with grilled thyme Throw some thyme sprigs over the fire to coax out the herb’s floral qualities. Serves 1 2 large sprigs fresh thyme; more for garnish ½ fl. oz. (1 Tbs.) fresh lime juice 1½ fl. oz. (3 Tbs.) gin, preferably Bluecoat American Dry ½ fl. oz. (1 Tbs.) limoncello, preferably Averna Limoni di Sicil ia
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Prepare a gas or charcoal grill fire for direct cooking over medium-high (500°F) heat. Grill the thyme sprigs until fragrant and lightly charred, about 15 seconds. In a mixing glass or cocktail shaker, gently muddle the grilled thyme with the lime juice. Add the gin and limoncello and fill the shaker with ice. Stir well. Strain into a chilled rocks glass filled with fresh ice, garnish with thyme, and serve.
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• 1 pork chop • 1/4 cup peach preserves • 2 tbsp Maille Dijon Originale Mustard • 1 tsp hot sauce • 2 tsp whole black peppercorns • 1 clove of garlic, finely minced • 2 tsp red chili pepper flakes • 1 tsp smoked paprika • Salt and pepper for seasoning • IF YOU CARE Heavy Duty Aluminum Foil
Peach Glazed Pork Makes 1 Serving 1. Mix together peach preserves, mustard, hot sauce, peppercorns, garlic, chili pepper flakes and smoked paprika. 2. Season 1 pork chop with salt and pepper and coat with the peach mixture. 3. Seal in aluminum foil packet. 4. Grill over high heat, turning, 18 minutes. 5. Garnish and serve.
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