FANTASTIC FINISHES Coloring and Finishing Leather the Fiebing Way By Tony & Kay Laier
TABLE OF CONTENTS GETTING S TARTED
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LEATHER DYES: ALCOHOL, OIL & WATER BASED
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2
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3
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4
BRUSH SELECTION & CARE
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BACKGROUND DYEING
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5
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COLORING A FIGURE & PICTORIAL SCENE MORE COLORING TECHNIQUES ACRYLIC COLORS
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COLORING AN OAK LEAF COLORING A FLORAL
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AN TIQUES
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SPECIAL EFFECTS TOP FINISHES
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COLOR CHARTS
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19
EDGE FINISHING LEATHER CARE
1
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20
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COMPATIBILITY CHARTS
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INTRODUCTION Since 1895, the Fiebing Company has been manufacturing and developing high quality dyes, stains, finishes and leather care products in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. Fiebing�s, as it has come to be known, is dedicated to serving the needs of leather workers, crafts people and hobbyists worldwide. The Fiebing Company continues to combine classic formulations with modern processes and materials to create products that are trusted by professionals and hobbyists of all ages. This book illustrates how Fiebing's dyes, stains, antiques and finishes will help your leather projects come alive and how Fiebing's leather care products will ensure that your work is preserved for all to enjoy. This book is intended to provide a collection of demonstrations and informative tips and is sure to be a worthy addition to your leather working library. Fiebing's Fantastic Finishes
GETTING STARTED SELECTING THE RIGHT DYE, STAIN, ANTIQUE AND FINISH FOR YOUR PROJECT: After spending hours tooling your leather project, adding color can often seem like a "leap of faith". To lessen the doubt and increase your confidence, first consider all of the possibilities illustrated in this book before settling on products to use. Each has its advantages and can enhance the look and durability of your leather project. Some will penetrate the leather more than others; some will result in bolder and brighter colors and others will vary depending on the type of leather used. By the time you finish this book and with practice, you should be able to identify which Fiebing's product best suits your needs.
CHOOSE THE RIGHT COLOR: Experiment with applying different colors on samples of leather that are as close as possible to the leather used for your final piece. No two pieces of leather are exactly the same; be patient and practice. Expect some variances even when
TOOLED BORDER
using the same products and colors.
WITH FIGURE CARVED CENTER
SET UP A PROPER WORKSPACE: Work in a well lit space. A good mix of natural and artificial lighting is always preferable. Make sure your workspace is well ventilated and free of unnecessary obstacles. Set up your work bench so that everything needed for coloring your project is within easy reach. Keep lots of rags or paper towels close for clean up. Choose a chair that puts you in a comfortable position over your project.
PREPARE THE LEATHER FOR DYEING AND FINISHING: Be sure your leather is Fiebing's Dye Prep is a formulated cleaner for use on leather that has not been previously dyed or finished. Fiebing's Deglazer can be used to clean and prepare
as clean as possible.
leather that has been previously finished - it is the more potent of the two prep products.
COMPATIBILITY: Always consider which products work best together before applying them to your leather project. A Compatibility Chart is found on page 21.
BORDER & CENTER BACKGROUND DYED
THE BUCKING SADDLE BRONC COVER was designed, tooled and colored by Tony Laier. Shown on this page are some of the techniques used to add color to the original tooled piece. The following pages of this book will explain in more detail these techniques and offer tips for coloring and finishing your projects.
SHERIDAN COLORING
CENTER COLORED &
LOGO COLORED FOR
ADDED TO BORDER
TOOLED LOGO APPLIED
FINAL COVER
Copyright
2008 Fiebing Company. All rights reserved
LEATHER DYES: ALCOHOL, OIL
&
WATER BASED
Choose the best dye or stain for your project, style and comfort level. See pages 20 & 21 for color swatches. FIEBING'S LEATHER DYE
FIEBING'S PROFESSIONAL OIL DYE
The most recognized and trusted penetrating alcohol based leather dye
An alcohol based, penetrating dye created specifically for natural strap leather, vegetable tanned leather, bag and case leather. Vibrant colors and superior UV
in the world.
protection.
FIEBING'S LEATHERCOLORS
FIEBING'S INSTITUTIONAL LEATHER DYE
Penetrating leather dye that complies with VOC regulations. Formulated with a low VOC solvent base resulting in a uniform finish.
Non-flammable, water based, penetrating leather dye formulated for usc in hospitals, schools. prisons and other institutions.
FIEBING'S LEATHER STAIN
FIEBING'S DYE REDUCER
Non-flammable, penetrating dye that provides long lasting color. Fiebing's Leather Stain is Linseed Oil based.
Use with alcohol based Leather Dye, Leather Colors and Professional Oil Dye to dilute colors.
OVERALL COLORING TECHNIQUES To do "overall" (large space) dyeing, be sure to have a sufficient quantity of dye on hand to cover the entire area. Dyes may vary slightly in shade so consider combining more than one bottle to create a large enough batch needed to complete the job without color variance. As always, make sure your workspace is well ventilated before using any of these dyes. Here are various application techniques for applying the dye: USING A DAUBER:
USING BRUSHES:
Dip dauber in dye and begin
When dyeing with a FLAT brush,
in upper left corner moving
use cross and diagonal strokes for
quickly in a continuous
1st, 2nd and 3rd applications for
circular motion, overlapping
a more solid, even dye coverage.
the previous stroke. Keep
When using a ROUND brush, move
dauber full of dye, resuming
quickly in a circular motion so each
circular movement over
stroke slightly overlaps the previous
lapping previous strokes.
stroke. When more dye is needed, dip, then resume circular movement
When the I st coat is dry, you may see light and dark spots. Go
overlapping previous stroke. When
over the entire project again, in the opposite direction with the
dry, buff to remove excess dye off
same procedure. If necessary, dye a third time or more until proper
surface and for a sheen.
coverage is achieved. When dry, buff to remove any excess dye off surface and to achieve a sheen.
USING A SPRAYER (Air Brush or Aerosol Sprayer with Bottle): Be sure you have plenty of pre-mixed dye before starting. Fill bottle with dye. Attach sprayer. Place project in a spray booth or spray box made from cardboard. Position box on a sturdy table covered with paper in a well ventilated area. Prop up project on cardboard pieces or sticks to raise it up off paper. Tlus will prevent dye from pooling along bottom edge. Begin spraying off the project on one side. Move across project spraying off project on the other side. Continue back and forth until project is covered. Maintain a uniform distance from the project while spraying. Spray light coats until desired color is achieved. Allow to dry. Give project a quarter tum and re-spray if necessary. Allow to dry and buff with sheep wool or soft cloth to remove excess dye in preparation for a top finish and to achieve a sheen.
Fiebing's Fantastic Finishes
BRUSH SELECTION
&
CARE
Most techniques of coloring can be done with a good quality # 3 or #4 Round Red Sable brush. The head should be approximately 118" in diameter by 5/8" long with a good snap or spring and a gradual taper to a fine sharp point. A #1 Round Sable is also good to have at hand for very fine detail work. Have separate brushes for each color category (browns, reds, greens, yellows, blues and black). No matter how well a brush is cleaned, some dye color will always remain in the brush ferrule. Dye that remains hidden in the ferrule will eventually migrate down the bristles and mix with whatever color is being used.
GENERAL RULE: "The better the brush, the better the results." TIP: Mark the end of each brush handle with electrical tape or paint that matches the color category each brush is to be used for to avoid confusion.
;:·
#4 ROUND RED SABLE BRUSHES
HOW TO USE BRUSHES: Before using new brushes for the first time, clean them thoroughly as described below. Familiarize yourself with the brushes on scrap leather. Dip brush tip into dye (only 3/4 of the bristle length) but never up to or over the ferrule. Practice using varied amounts of dye and pressure. LOADED means the brush is full r . of dye. Too much dye is not a good practice. However, an over loaded brush can be carefully used when flooding a background surface. The amount of downward pressure on brush tip will � ::r dictate the width of the stroke and the amount of dye /• w .. .fl.· released. Only practice will help you decide when to "'' #' 4#· · use more or less pressure. - ·
CLEANING AND CARING FOR BRUSHES: When using ALCOHOL or OIL DYES, clean brushes with Fiebing's DYE REDUCER. When using WATER BASED DYES, clean with water. TO CLEAN: Pull brush head across a stack of folded paper towels or tissues while dripping dye reducer or water directly on the bristles. Move to a clean area of the towel after each wipe. This will remove most of the dye without harming the bristles. Then gently wash brush head in warm soapy water (mild hand or dish soap). Pat brush dry on a paper towels and reform the tip to a point by rolling the tip in the crease of your palm. TIP: Apply a drop of hand lotion in crease of your palm before forming the tip. This will help retain the tip's point and condition bristles for longer life. When properly cared for, good quality brushes should last for many years.
DYE REDUCER OR WATER
REFORM TIP OF BRUSH
MORE USEFUL ITEMS TO HAVE ON HAND
SCRAP LEATHER MATCHING PIECE TO BE COLORED
--
REDUCER FOR OIL & ALCOHOL DYES
PLASTIC MULTI HOLE PALLET I
PAPER TOWELS
WATER FOR WATER-BASED DYES
Copyright
PLASTIC SQUEEZE BOTTLES & EYE DROPPERS
2008 Fiebing Company. All rights reserved
EXTRA APPLICATORS
\\\llllllllJI/1/
q
RACK FOR BRUSHES
(Brushes & rack holes marked w/colors)
BACKGROUND DYEING By definition, the background behind a tooled design is dyed separately from the rest of the piece. Practice using a #4 Sable brush for large areas and tight spaces on a piece of scrap leather until you can control the movement of the brush. A #1 Sable may be used in tight spaces if desired. Always begin dyeing in the center of an open larger space; then work towards the edges and into tight corners. Never touch a cut edge or small area. Place brush near the space or edge and let dye work up into the space. The technique for coloring silhouetted designs and background coloring are the same.
Starting in a small space risks having dye "bleed".
Correctly started in the center of a space.
TIP: After dipping brush in dye, touch tip on paper or scrap leather to remove excess dye before applying dye to your project. Too much dye will run and "bleed" into tool cuts and impressions.
WET BRUSHING is applying full strength or diluted hues of dyes with a heavily loaded brush to obtain the most even full cover of dye tones. This technique is most commonly used for background coloring as seen here and in Step I on the next page. It is also used when base coats are applied to projects in preparation for other techniques. SHADING WITH DILUTED HUES is a shading technique using 2 or more (nmmally 3) progressively darker strengths of one or more dye colors to create shape and shadow. This type of coloring almost always follows the old water color rule "work light to dark". Lighter and darker shades of dye are created by diluting dyes with different amounts of the appropriate diluter: thinner or dye reducer for alcohol or oil based dye and water for water based dves. NOTE: Refer to Monochrome Coloring on oas>e R for a different appucauon or thiS tcc fii'IIQUe.
Heavily diluted Kelly Green Alcohol Dye
Lightly diluted Kelly Green Alcohol Dye
Full strength Chocolate Brown & Yellow
Full strength Kelly Green Alcohol Dye
DRY BRUSH SHADING is shading with full strength or diluted hues using a brush containing very little dye. To do this technique, dip the tip of the brush into the dye, then stroke the brush on a paper towel or scrap piece of leather to remove most of the dye while forming the tip of the brush into a fan shape. The fan shaped tip of the brush is then stroked lightly over the leather allowing only a very small amount of dye to penetrate into the most raised areas of the leather adding color to those areas. HIGHLIGHTING or "bringing out" (1) GRASS and bark pattern detail on pictorial carvings and (2) HAIR detail on figure carved pictures are just two of the many uses for the DRY BRUSH SHADING coloring technique. This technique defines detail. (1) GRASS Fiebing's Fantastic Finishes
(2) HAIR
COLORING AN OAK LEAF DEMO USING FIEBING'S LEATHERCOLORS The How-To on this page is done using Fiebing's low VOC LeatherColors. The same steps can be followed using Fiebing's alcohol or oil based dyes as well. The demonstration below includes 5 steps to achieve a finished, colored piece. However, depending on your choice of colors and hues (diluted colors) you may require more or less steps.
DYES & HUES USED Yellow
(diluted)
(diluted)
(diluted)
(diluted)
( diluted )
(diluted)
Red
STEP Mix desired color hues in enough quantity to complete your project and keep count of how much Fiebing's Reducer & full strength color you use to create the hue.
1
Full strength Chocolate & Yellow
STEP 2
Diluted & full strength Medium Brown
STEP 3
STEP 4
STEP 5
Diluted & full strength Green
Diluted & full strength
Diluted & full strength Red
(with Yellow added)
Chocolate
Copyright 2008 Fiebing Company. All rights reserved
COlORING A FlORAl DEMO USING FIEBING'S INSTITUTIONAL LEATHER DYES The How-To on this page is done using Fiebing's water based Institutional Leather Dye. The same steps can be followed using Fiebing's alcohol or oil based dyes as well. The demonstration below includes 5 steps to achieve a finished, colored piece. However, depending on your choice of colors and hues (diluted colors), you may require more or less steps.
D YES & HUES USED Black
Yellow
Red
(diluted)
(diluted)
Tan
Green
Mix your desired color hues in enough quantity to complete
STEP 1
STEP 2
your project or keep count of how much water & ful l strength color you use to create the hue.
Full strength Black
Full strength Yellow
STEP 3
STEP 4
STEP 5
Diluted & full strength Tan
Diluted & full strength Green
Full strength Red
Fiebing's Fantastic Finishes
COLORING A FIGURE & PICTORIAL SCENE DEMO USING FIEBING'S LEATHER DYE The How-To on this page is done using Fiebing's alcohol based Leather Dye. The same steps can be followed using Fiebing's water based or oil based dyes as well. The demonstration below includes 5 steps to achieve a finished, colored piece. However, depending on your choice of colors and hues (diluted colors), you may require more or less steps. Acrylic Dyes were used to add accent colors to the sky, deer and snow on mountains.
D YES & HUES USED Chocolate & British Tan Mix (diluted)
(diluted)
Chocolate
Green
(diluted)
Kelly Green
Chocolate & Black Mix (diluted)
(full �..,.......,
STEP 1
STEP 2
Diluted & stronger Chocolate &
Full strength Chocolate
Acrylic Dyes: White
Blue
D
British Tan Mix
STEP 3
---
STEP 4
Diluted & full strength Green
Diluted & full strength Kelly Green
Diluted & full strength Chocolate & Black Mix on rocks & mountains
Copyright
2008 Fiebing Company. All tights reserved
STEP 5
D
White & Mix of Blue
& White Acrylic Colors
MORE COLORING TECHNIQUES MONOCHROME COLORING MONOCHROME COLORING is coloring with one color or various shades of that one color. This technique involves beginning with a light shade of one color and adding darker shades of the same color to create a 3-D effect of roundness and depth on an object. Brown is the preferred color. when using this technique on leather because natural vegetable tanned leather is a shade of brown. However, any color will work. The samples below show how effective the Monochrome Coloring technique can be using just three shades of one brown color. Drawings on the left show where different shades are used.
lB) FIRST COAT: Acts as
a base coat, defining
muscle tones, shadow areas and highlights.
2A)
Second area to be colored. Use about a half and half
2B) SECOND COAT:
Used to strengthen and define
mix of dye and solvent (or water).
muscle tones, shadow areas and highlights.
3A)
3B)
Third area to be colored. Use full strength dye.
THIRD COAT: Used to color eye and apply final
shading and coloring for definition.
Fiebing's Fantastic Finishes
ACRYliC COLORS FIEBING'S ACRYLIC DYE Quick drying, long lasting leather paint for color coating a smooth leather surface. Acrylic dye is flexible and water resistant. The colors are easily mixed and can be diluted with water. Acrylic dye also makes for a great edge finish. Fiebing's offers a convenient Acrylic Dye Pack that includes 11 Acrylic Dye colors, Fiebing's Resolene top fin ish and 2 mtist brushes.
TIP: Normally, Acrylic Dye is applied over natural or dyed leather using a brush. Many different textured effects can be achieved using other applicators, such as sponges (natural and synthetic), daubers, wool, cloth, etc. Clean applicators with water.
TIP: To color a sky as shown above, dampen leather first to extend the time Acrylic Dye can be worked before drying. Begin at the top using a dark blue-white mix. Blend in more white to lighten the sky as it approaches the mountain tops. Add in wispy clouds last using straight white thinned with water to form a wash.
�
------ -----_ � .. ..•
STRONG USE: Sample above shows white acrylic applied in quantity to bring out the
TIP: When adding accent detail using acrylic dyes on a figure or pictorial carved piece, it is important to have as much control of the dye direction as possible. This control requires a quality brush. A #1 Round Red Sable brush works very well for detail and allows control of dye placement.
flo wer petals.
SUBTLE USE: Sample above shows white acrylic applied �paringly with a quality brush to accent deer features.
Copyright
2008 Fiebing Company. All rights reserved
ANTIQUES FIEBING'S ANTIQUE LEATHER STAIN Antique Leather Stain is an acrylic, water based antique finish. Apply in a circular motion with a dauber, wool swatch or cloth. Wipe off excess with a cloth or damp sponge leaving antique in the cuts for contrast.
FIEBING'S ANTIQUE FINISH Antique Finish is a paste that offers a soft patina that emphasizes tooling, carving and embossing. Antique Finish is applied boldly in a circular motion with a dry piece of wool or cloth. Immediately remove excess off raised areas leaving desired amount in the cuts for contrast. Antique Finish can be thinned with Fiebing's Tan Kote. Use a top finish of your choice for desired results.
FIEBING'S HI-LITER Hi-Liter is an easy to use stain that imparts a light brown color to natural leather combined with a dark brown build up of color in cuts and impressions for maximum contrast. Apply with a damp sponge and rub well into cuts and tooled impressions. Remove excess with a damp sponge and apply a top finish of choice as needed.
APPLICATORS FOR ANTIQUES & STAINS
CLOTH Cloth may be used to apply all antiques and stains but is most commonly used to remove excess after the antique or stain has been applied using other applicators such as sheep wool, sponges or daubers. Cloth, especially when wrapped tightly around a small wooden block ("block dyeing"), will leave more antique down in cuts and impressions than other types of applicators. For a lighter look to an antiqued project, slightly dampen the cloth with water before use, which will allow more pigment (color) to be lifted and removed. A clean, soft cloth also works well to buff antiques to a nice sheen in preparation for the application of a final top finish. SHEEP WOOL Sheep wool is also a good applicator for all antiques and stains, but is preferred for applying Antique Finish. The texture of wool helps to push Antique Finish, a thick paste, down into cuts and impressions. Sheep wool also holds a lot of antique and stain allowing for greater coverage and a longer working time in between trips to the container. No other material works better to remove unwanted excess antique stain, wax finishes, soap, etc. from cuts and impressions. In addition, the softness of wool makes it ideal for almost all buffing and polishing. SPONGE A sponge, slightly dampened, is the preferred applicator for applying Antique Leather Stains and Hi-Liter. These liquids tend to dry quickly during application. A sponge's cell structure allows it to hold a lot of stain and the added water acts as an extender which allows for a longer time to work the product evenly into the leather. A slightly dampened sponge also works well to remove excess stain and Hi-Liter before a top finish is applied. BRUSHES & DAUBERS Brushes and daubers are mainly used to apply liquid dyes or edge coatings, but they can also be used in some cases to apply antiques and stains. These include applying antique and stain on smaller projects or on projects where a lot of control is called for, such as areas to be left antique or stain free �resisted).
Fiebing's Fantastic Finishes
SPECIAL EFFECTS: BASE COAT ANTIQUING BASE COAT ANTIQUING TECHNIQUE involves using different colors of Fiebing's alcohol, oil or water based dyes together with different colors of Fiebing's Antique Finish to produce an almost limitless combination of deep, vibrant colors on vegetable tanned leather. This technique brings out carved, stamped and tooled designs as well as highlights seams, edges of appliques and overlays.
HOW TO DO BASE COAT ANTIQUING 1) Apply an overall base coating of Fiebing's water, alcohol or oil leather dye using an aerosol sprayer or air brush . The more even the base coat the better. 2) Optional: Adding shading around figures and edges plus background dyeing some areas a darker color than the base coat color can emphasize and add depth to the design. (See Bison Head shown below.) 3) Allow dye to dry completely. Then buff with a clean soft cloth or piece of sheep wool to remove any pigment from the surface. 4) Apply a liberal coat of Fiebing's Antique Finish. (For best results, use a darker color of Antique Finish than the dye color used for the original base coat.) Be sure antique gets into all impressions and cuts. 5) Before Antique Finish dries, remove excess finish with a clean piece of sheep wool and buff to a soft luster. 6) Allow to dry completely. Then apply a Fiebing's Top Finish of your choice.
Tooling by Tony Laier I Coloring by Philip Smith (Phoro courtesy of Steel Strike Leather Products, Inc.)
Copyright
2008 Fiebiog Company. All rights reserved
SPECIAL EFFECTS: RESISTS (BLOCKING) Most Fiebing's top finishes, when applied to natural or dyed leather, will resist or block the penetration of antiques and stains. Some will resist or block more than others depending on what base was used, not only in the top finish, but also in the antique or stain. For instance, acrylic based Leather Sheen will resist or block more with acrylic based antiques or stains than resin based Tan-Kote. The various hues possible can be used to create many different effects.
USING RESISTS ON NATURAL (UNDYED) LEATHER: EXAMPLE Al shows a RESIST OF FIEBING'S LEATHER SHEEN applied with a brush to a design on natural leather. EXAMPLE A2 shows Fiebing's Antique Leather Stain applied over the design, after top finish dried.
A2
Al
EXAMPLE Bl shows the same design RESISTED WITH FlEEING'S TAN-KOTE. EXAMPLE B2 shows application ofFiebing's Antique Leather Stain. Notice the darker hues created with the lesser resisting or blocking power of the resin based Tan-Kote.
Bl
USING RESISTS ON DYED LEATHER: A resist of Fiebing's Leather Sheen, Fiebing's Tan-Kote or other top finish over a design colored with Fiebing's Leather Dye (alcohol, oil or water based) can be used with great effect to tone down harsh colors and define cuts and impressions. EXAMPLE Cl shows a design colored with alcohol dye, RESISTED WITH LEATHER SHEEN. EXAMPLE C2 shows design coated withFiebing's Antique Leather Stain after the Leather Sheen dried.
Fiebing's Fantastic Finishes
SPECIAL EFFECTS: RESISTS (BLOCKING) EXAMPLE Dl shows the same alcohol dye colored design. RESISTED WITH FlEBfNG'S TAN-KOTE. EXAMPLE D2 shows the design coated with Fiebing's Antique Leather Stain after the Tan Kote dr ied -
Dl
.
D2
USING ANTIQUE AND STAINS WITH ACRYLIC DYES: Antiques and stains may also be applied over a design painted with acrylic dye. The antique or stain will tone down acyclic dyes' bright colors, at the same time accenting all cuts lines and impressions. Note: it is advisable to seal the color white with an acrylic top finish to prevent the antique or stain from turning the white dye yellow. Different top finishes may be applied as resists over all colors of acrylic dye. EXAMPLE El sho w s a design colored with Fiebing's Acrylic Dye before a coat of Fiebing's Antique Finish is applied . EXAMPLE E2 shows the same acrylic colored design after a coat of Fiebing's Dark Brown Antique Finish was applied. A top coat resist may be applied over leaves and flowers before antiquing if brighter colors are desired.
El
E2
BEESWAX AND LEATHERCRAFT CEMENT FIEBING'S B E ESWAX CAKES Fiebing's Bees Wax is the perfect thread pre-coating for all linen handstitching threads. Strengthens and protects thread for easier sewing and longer thread life. Pure beeswax cakes are also used by boot makers to fill cracks in the toes and heels of boots and shoes before final finishing. TIP: Beeswax can be used as a creative resist. Lightly draw a design onto leather with edge of wax. Gently brush off excess wax residue. Apply dye. Remove excess dye and lightly buff. Great for kids.
FIEBING'S LEATH ERCRAFT C EM ENT Hig h strength bonding leathercraft cement for all leathers. Fiebing's Leathercraft Cement is the perfect adhesive to use for filigree and applique work. Non-flammable. non-toxic and quick drying. TIP: May also be used as a resist or block. Use a brush to apply. Thin with water if necessary. Let dry completely before applying dyes, stains or antiques.
Copyright 2008 Fiebing Company.
All rights reserved
TOP FINISHES BEFORE APPLYING A TOP FINISH TO YOUR PROJECT: PREPARE YOUR WORKSPACE: 1) Clear away all unnecessary supplies, especially dyes, applicators, cloths, wool pieces that may contain dye residue that could get onto your finished project. 2) Use a small dish or extra empty clean bottle for easier access with applicator. 3) Also have a dish of water available for dampening sponges or cloths if necessary. 4) Have all possible applicators handy and ready to use. 5) Have excess amounts of paper towels and a trash can with plastic liner.
APPLYING A TOP FINISH: NOTE: Practice finishing techniques on scrap leather. 1) Dip end of sponge (or other applicator) into finish and apply to the leather, beginning at top and working downward. 2) Dip in finish as often as needed. 3) Apply liberally and work into all cuts and depressions. 4) Move quickly and try to spread finish as evenly as possible. 5) Some finishes should not be rubbed or buffed after they are dry. Always read directions for use before applying the finish.
TIP: Most Fiebing's top finishes may be applied with an air brush, aerosol or commercial sprayer. Thicker top finishes such as Fiebing's Tan-Kote and Fiebing's Bag Kote should be thinned with water before use. Always begin and end spraying off of the project to prevent spots of heavy build-up. Spray on light coats allowing each to dry before applying another.
FIEBING'S INSTITUTIONAL LEATHER FINISH A water based neutral top finish for use in schools, hospitals, prisons and other institutions. Although it is best applied with a spray, it can be applied sparingly with a soft cloth or brush. Do not let finish run.
FIEBING'S LEATHER BALM WITH ATOM WAX A specifically formulated liquid wax finish that can be buffed to a rich, soft, velvety luster. Although Leather
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Balm with Atom Wax is not a water resistant top finish, it is the preferred finish of many professional belt makers. It is best applied sparingly with a soft cloth or wool skin worked evenly into the leather and allowed to dry.
FIEBING'S CARNAUBA CREAM This blend of natural waxes, originally developed for use on smooth leather, also works well on certain carved and stamped projects. If used on carved or stamped leather, any residue should be removed from cuts and impressions as explained in the TIP on this
TIP: When a top finish containing wax is used on a tooled design, care must be taken to prevent an unsightly build-up of wax residue in cuts and impressions. Listed below are a few ways to safely remove the residue if it does occur: 1) Try to remove the residue by rubbing briskly with sheep wool. This method works best if the finish is still wet. 2) If the wool does not remove all of the residue, scrub affected areas with a soft, fine bristled tooth brush. Clean up and buff with sheep wool. 3) If wax residue still remains in cuts and impressions after trying Steps 1 and 2, try warming np the wax using a hair dryer set on low heat. In most cases, this will re-Iiquify the wax enough allowing Steps 1 and 2 to work. CAUTION: Use a low or no-heat setting only! A high-heat setting may damage the leather.
page. Work evenly into the leather with a soft cloth or sheep wool. Allow to dry and buff to a mellow glow.
Fiebing's Fantastic Finishes
TOP FINISHES
This piece shows a base coat of Fiebing :S alcohol based Leather Dye, Fiebing's Antique (paste) and Fiebing:S Leather Sheen top finish. Tooled by Tony Laier & colored by Philip Smith. (Photo courtesy of Steel Strike Leather ProduCls, Inc.)
TIP: Make eyes come alive by using a high gloss top finish, such as Leather Sheen, instead of painting white spots on the eyes.
FIEBING'S LEATHER SHEEN (LIQUID VS. AEROSOL SPRAY) Fiebing's Leather Sheen is available in liquid form and as an aerosol spray and are very different in application and result. Both are acrylic, wax top finishes but that is where the similarity ends. The aerosol version is best used for providing a quick and high gloss shine. The liquid version is preferred
Designed, tooled and colored by Tony Laier, this 3 dimensional picture shows the use of Fiebing :S Alcohol Based Dyes applied with a red sable brush. Leather Sheen top finish, both liquid and aerosol, were used for the final seal on the individual pieces before assembly. Leather Sheen liquid applied with a brush works best for detail pieces, while spray is easier to use for an even overall background coverage.
if an acrylic seal is desired over the top of your colored leather project. The liquid version will provide a more water resistant finish.
FIEBING'S SADDLE LAC
FIEBING'S ACRYLIC RESOLENE
A clear, quick drying lacquer finish in an
A flexible, durable, water resistant acrylic top finish for dyed, antiqued or polished leathers. The surface
aerosol can. Saddle Lac dries glossy and hard yet flexes without cracking. Apply to your project when completely dry by holding the can 5 inches from the surface and spraying
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• ..Urm FINISH
of your item should be dry and clean before applying Resolene. If you are spraying, spray one light coat and let dry. If using an applicator, use a damp sponge
lightly. Saddle Lac may be used as a resist
in long strokes once over to prevent tacky build up.
for Sheridan Style coloring as shown
Resolene may also be used over Fiebing's Edge Dye
on page 16.
for a durable top finish.
Copyright 2008 Fiebing Company. All rights reserved
TOP FINISHES SHERIDAN ST YLE COLORING USING OVERAll TOP FINISH RESIST
1)
2)
Optional: After all tooling is completed, add a very light coat
3)
Apply a liberal coat of Fiebing's Sheridan Brown Antique
of Fiebing's Neatsfoot Oil. This helps replenish oils lost in the
Finish or other color. Mix colors for different hues. Use a sheep
casing and tooling processes.
wool applicator. Work antique down into all cuts and
Apply a coat of Fiebing's Tan Kote, Leather Sheen, Saddle-Lac,
wool using long straight strokes (not circular) to keep as much
impressions. Remove excess antique with clean pieces of sheep Resolenc or other top finish to act as a resist. (NOTE: Use Tan
antique down in cuts and impressions as possible.
Kate or Bag Kote as a resist on saddles.) Allow to dry completely.
4)
After all excess antique has been removed, leaving desired
5)
Apply Fiebing's Tan-Kote as a final finish. NOTE: Tan-Kote
antique in cuts and impressions, allow project to dry
will pick up some of the antique, so do not rub too hard while
completely. Then buff with a clean piece of sheep wool.
applying. Buff to a mellow satin glow.
FIEBING'S TAN-KOTE
..... TAN·KOft - ..... -
Tan-Kote is a resin based, moisture resistant, easy to apply top finish. It goes on smooth, even and streak free leaving a soft, mellow satin finish. Tan-Kote is a preferred finish for saddle makers because it allows the saddle to be periodically cleaned and oiled. Tan-Kote is often used to thin down Fiebing's Antique Finish. Neutral can be tinted different colors by mixing in small amounts of water based Fiebing's dye. Tan-Kote also brings out and enhances carved and stamped designs. Apply an even coat with sheep wool, sponge, brush or sprayer. lf a sprayer is used, thin with water. Always let dry between coats and always allow to dry completely.
FIEBING'S BAG KOTE Bag Kote, another top finish preferred by saddle makers, will give a soft, satin finish no other product can achieve. Fiebing's Bag Kote was originally developed by John Ficbing over 80 years ago
as
a treatment for US
Mail Carrier's leather mail bags and remains unchanged to this day. Bag Kote may either be sprayed or applied with a damp sponge, sheep wool or dauber. Bag Kote may be applied over natural or dyed leather. A thin coat is all that is necessary. Bag Kote may be applied over natural or dyed leather. lt may be diluted with water up to 20%.
Fiebing's Fantastic Finishes
EDGE FINISHING
EDGE ENAMEL BLACK 40Z.
FIEBING'S EDGE ENAMEL
FIEBING'S EDGE KOTE
Edge Enamel is a heavy bodied, resin
Edge Kote dries water resistant with a flexible,
based edge finish. To use, apply after
deep semi-gloss. Edge Kote is recommended
smoothing the edges to produce a clean,
for use on nah1ral edges and can be thinned with
smooth and glossy edge. Edge enamel
water. Always stir Edge Kote, never shake. If a
can be thinned with water.
higher gloss is desired, allow to dry completely
118n'IL
and buff gently with a soft cloth.
FIEBING'S EDGE DYE
FIEBING'S EDGE DYE
A penetrating edge finish that is
FINISH & APPLICATOR
durable and long lasting. Edge Dye
A convenient, water resistant acrylic edge finish
will dry to a semi-gloss and needs to
that dries in minutes. Provides a quick and easy
be applied to edges that have been
professional finish on the edges of belts, saddles
smoothed down. After it is applied,
and other leather goods. lnve11 bottle and apply
Edge Dye can be polished, burnished
evenly with attached sponge applicator.
or finished with Resolene.
APPLICATORS Many types of applicators will work to apply edge dye or finish including the following: A small
( 1 " long x 3/4" wide x 1/2"
thick) square of thick dense felt or a small square of sponge held by a clothes pin. An applicator preferred by many professionals is a wool dauber prepared by trimming to desired size. All of these applicators will work well with all edge dyes and finishes.
APPLICATOR MACHINES Various companies make different types of machines that apply edge finishes. These machines normally involve a wheel of some type that rotates through a reservoir containing the edge finish. Running a project over the wheel causes rotation which picks up edge finish from the reservoir and transfers it to the project's edge. All of the above Fiebing's edge finishes will work in most of these types of machines.
SELECTING THE RIGHT EDGE TREATMENT APPLICATOR: There are many options for Edge Treatment Applicators. Some can be pm·chased ready-made: Small & large wool daubers Sponges of all sizes Sponge brush
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Many leather workers prefer to make their own applicators or modify the store bought variety as needed for their individual projects. Felt Daubers Wool daubers trimmed to desired size Rectangular felt on end of clothespin Many options custom to the individual worker
Copyright 2008 Fiebing Compan). All rights reserved
EDGE FINISHING EDGE PREPARATION: For more professional looking projects, preparing edges prior to the application of edge dyes or finishes is essential. The basic steps used to prepare an edge are:
1)
Round off square cut edges with an edge beveler or bissonnette sized for the thickness of the leather.
2)
Use a sponge to lightly dampen the beveled edge with water or Fiebing's Gum Tragacanth. NOTE: Gum Tragacanth acts as a light resist or block. For
TIP: Lightly dampen edge with water before rounding off with an edge beveler or bissonnette. The edger will cut through the leather much easier and leave a smoother surface in preparation for next step.
best results, apply after project has been antiqued or stained.
3)
Rub edge briskly with an edge slicker, bone folder or piece of natural coarse canvas to compress the fibers and burnish the edges. If some fibers on the edge refuse to lay down, remove them by rubbing edge with a piece of very fine grit sand paper. Then repeat Steps 2 and
4)
3.
Apply your choice of edge dye o r finish using one
TIP: Dip applicator into edge dye or finish and touch to a piece of scrap leather or paper towel to remove excess. Use quick, long light strokes to apply on edge. For best control during application, lay project flat on work table with edge of project overhanging the edge of table, if possible.
of the applicators described in this section.
LEATHER
EDGE APPLICATOR OPTIONS: 1) DIFFERENT SIZED TRIMMED DAUBERS 2) FELT DAUBERS 3) SPONGE BRUSHES 4) SMALL PIECE OF FELT ON A CLOTHESPIN
CANVAS
APPLICATOR (Dauber Shown)
EDGE BOTH SIDES OF LEATHER
NOTE: Edge dressings should normally be applied after top finishes. Care should be taken to keep finish off slicked (burnished) edges of your projects. If finish gets on edge, sand edge with a very fine grit sandpaper. Then re-slick (burnish) edge and apply edge dressing.
TIP: Projects that have multi-layers of appliqued leather will need to have edges prepped for dyeing before they are assembled. A final top finish is applied after all pieces are assembled.
Fiebing's Fantastic Finisbes
LEATHER CARE Oi lS: Many leather workers prefer to use oils (natural and compounds) on their leather projects, adding or replacing oils lost in construction or with time, use and weathering. For best results, apply oils sparingly and allow to set. Then apply more coats if necessary. The following products work especially well on Leather items that will be subjected to harsh treatment and outdoor use. FIEBING'S 100% PURE NEATSFOOT OIL For smooth or tooled new leather or previously oiled withFiebing's Pure Neatsfoot Oil. Apply a light even coat, rubbing briskly with a soft
clean cloth. Allow oil to set and penetrate for 24 hours. Apply additional coats if necessary.
FIEBING'S PRIME NEATSFOOT OIL COMPOUND A combination of natural and synthetic oils for softening, preserving and waterproofing smooth leathers. Clean leather and apply oil allowing to penetrate freely. Rub briskly with soft, dry cloth.
FIEBING'S MINK OIL PASTE A natural by-product that softens, preserves and waterproofs all smooth leather or vinyl. Best when used on medium to dark colored a1ticles. Apply freely, working well into leather and wipe off excess. Helps prevent salt stains.
FIEBING'S MINK OIL LIQUID This blend of Mink Oil and 100% Pure Neatsfoot Oil softens, preserves and waterproofs smooth leather. Will darken light leather. Apply freely and work into leather. Allow for absorption and then wipe off excess.
Photo of saddle courtesy of Rick Bean
C0 ND ITI0 NER S: The following leather conditioners were developed to replenish oils and waxes lost through use and weathering. One contains a mild soap especially formulatedfor use on .fine and exotic leathers. The other was createdfor leather items that receive hard use and are subject to harsh climates. FIEBING'S 4-WAY CARE LEATHER CONDITIONER I ) cleans, 2) conditions, 3) waterproofs and 4)
A combination of oil and wax that
replenishes the tanning oils in leather.
4-Way
Care Leather Conditioner can also be used to clean fine leather including exotics because it contains leather soaps that float
II
out dirt and grime. Especially effective on leather upholstery including leather car seats. Use a clean cloth or sponge to spread a thin coat on the leather. Allow to penetrate thoroughly, then rub briskly with a soft, dry cloth to clean and polish.
FIEBING'S AUSSIE LEATHER CONDITIONER This product should be used after first cleaning the leather article withFiebing's Saddle Soap. Aussie Leather Conditioner was developed for Australian horsemen living in harsh climates. It contains natural beeswax and is perfect for use on saddles, tack, boot, gun cases, and handbags. Apply a light coat with a clean cloth. Allow product to penetrate. Buff off excess.
SOAPS: When leather needs more than just a conditioner, serious cleaners like these should be used. Keeping your leather articles clean will prolong their life and restore the beauty of the leather. FIEBING'S LIQUID
FIEBING'S SADDLE SOAP PASTE
GLYCERINE SADDLE SOAP
This isFiebing's signature product. It cleans
For large, smooth articles that need to be cleaned, using
leather and lubricates fibers to prevent brittleness,
a spray will be easier than paste. Spray on a generous
while maintaining suppleness and strength.
amount. Rub thoroughly with sponge or brush until
Dampen cloth or sponge and rub lightly over
foam disappears. After leather is dry, buff with cloth to
soap to produce lather. Apply to leather surface.
a rich, satin finish.
W hen dry. polish with soft cloth for light luster.
Copyright 2008 Fiebing Company. All rights reser ved
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_
CO LOR C HARTS FIEBING'S LEATHER COLORS
RED
MAHOGANY
CORDOVAN
CHOCOLATE
DARK BROWN
MEDIUM BROWN
LIGHT BROWN
SADDLE TAN
YELLOW
GREEN
ROY AL BLUE
BLACK
RED
DARK BROWN
TAt\J
YELLOW
BURGUNDY
MAROON
CHOCOLATE
MEDIUM BROWN
RUSSET
BRITISH TAN
BUCKSKIN
ORANGE
GREEN
AQUA GREEN
See page 2
FIEBING'S INSTITUTIONAL LEATHER D YE See page 2
::· /
-
'
MEDIUM BROWN
. ' �·�� :�:� .
GREEN
BLUE
RED
OXBLOOD
BLACK
FIEBING'S LEATHER D YE See page 2
MAHOGANY
DARK BROWN
UGHT BROWN
BEIGE
CORDOVAN
TAN
DARK
RED
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LIGHT TAN
YELLOW
KELLY GREEN
LIGHT BLUE
NAVY BLUE
PURPLE
BLACK
GREY
RED
MAHOGANY
CHOCOLATE
DARK BROWN
WALNUT
SADDLE TAN
YELLOW
GREEN
ROYAL BLUE
BLACK
RED
ORANGE
YELLOW
GREEN
TURQUOISE
FIEBING'S PROFESSIONAL OIL D YE See page 2
LIGHT BROWN
TURQUOISE
L
WHITE
FIEBING'S ACRYLIC D YE See page 9
'Yt
LlGHT BLUE
BLUE
MEDIUM BROWN
DARK BROWN
Fiebing's Fantastic Finishes
BLACK
WHITE
COMPATIBILIT Y CHART Always test the compatibility of products before applying them to your leather piece.
CODES A = YES - but finish may pick up some color. B = YES - but be sure to remove excess ANTIQUE from surface before applying a finish. Allow antique to dry completely or finish may streak, crack and flake off. C = NO on items that bend or flex. YES on items that will NOT be bent or flexed. H {l d..-r '? * D = YES - may be applied BEFORE or AFTER finish. * E = NO - may not be applied over finish. * NOTE: Edge dressings should normally be applied after top finishes. Care should be taken to keep finish off slicked (burnished) edges. If finish gets on edge, sand edge with a very fine grit sandpaper. Then re-slick (burnish) edge and apply edge dressing. FIEBING'S DYES,
FIEBING'S FINISHES:
STAINS, ANTIQUES:
Leather Sheen Institutional Finish Resolene Saddle Lac Leather Balm w/Atom Wax Tan Kote Bag Kote Carnauba Cream
Leather Dye Leather Color
A
A
A
yes
A
A
yes yes
A
A
A
A
yes
yes
yes
yes A
Leather Stain
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
Prof. Oil Dye
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
Inst . Dye
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
Antique Leather Stain Antique Finish
A
A
A
yes yes yes
A
A
A& B
A
A&B
A& B
A& B
B
A& B
A&B
A&B
c
yes E
A
A
A&B
c
E E D
D D D
D D D
E E D
E
D
D
E
Hi-Liter
A
A
A
Edge Enamel
D D D
D D E
D D E
D
D
D
Edge Kote Edge Dye Edge Dye Finish w/Applicator
Copyr ight
D D D
2008 Fiebing Company. All rights reserved
