men's emporiums. the last time anyone -;potted the genuine odd wni.stcoat for :-,ale on

American shores ,,·as back ,,·hen Brooks, Chipp. r\H~ nue

J.

Pres~.
li·iplers still basked in i\ lad ison

gloq: The odd ,,·aistcoat \\as one of the chromosomal \V,\~ P's trump cards in his lor-

mer dars of peacockcrr J\ cursory sun ·ey into this Ame ri.Glll tr;;tdilion begins in 1928. the Gatsby era. with a

lil1t'1l \\'~istcoat in pastel shades of tan, gra). and blue. ft

\.VJS

apparent!) in such favor that the

trade paper j\ fens \\ 'ear decreed that "the linen 'odd' vest is an import~1nt item in the ward robe oF

e\·er) man \Yho m~tkes :.111} pretense whatever at foUowing the fashions." By the mid - thirtie~. sma rr countrr attire spawned a ne\\ w:.1istcoat. the single- bre;:~sted tatte rsall vest its colors cho-

sen to harmonize with the :-Kcompanying ho1·sc) jackets. Younge 1· men who had never worn the odd waistcoat berLli"C '"'e re ca uti oned to remember that the loude r its hue. the quic:te 1· its style should be. ''For instance.'' wrote a Mens \\ 'et1r editor. ''the t;;ltre rsall check is almost im~uiablr ~ccn

in the single-breasted model. while the plainer. more consctTative

colors mar be ' porred in the double- breasted model." B) the

19-!-0S,
semi-sports outfit ,,·as not only acceptable for city \\'ear

but acco rdin g to Esquire. "it wa~ ~mart to be ~po rt(' The 11ew det:.1 iling oF semispo rts clothes \\'as a n outgrowth oF hun ti ng and ridi 11g togs. Unfort unatel y despite the separate \'est's nJtiona1 sponsorship. the wJ.i stco~1t per ~e \\'as waning. During d1e \\arrears. it was dealt an insurmountable blow " ·hen the \ Var Production Board dL·crced that doublc-breaHed suits could no

longer be manufactured \\'ith 'ests. \Vhilc the checked. plaid, or brightly roned solid odd ves t 1·emai ned :1 fixture on mall } hJ League campuses up through the sixties. the Pencock Revolution u-;hc,·ed in the shaped suit, eflccri\'cly killing it. By the early se,rcntics. the peacock had distmced himsci f from the postboy. [\·en though the current ,,·orkplacc has

~KtiYated

the sport j:.1ckct

Cor d ress-dmrn dut). unl ess the (our- in - h~lnd is similarly mobilized. the sepa-

rate vest is not liJ.:ely to be see n storming the fro nt lines of men's fashion anytime soon. This is a shame. because the snapp}' odd weskit could al\\ a)'S be depe1ldcd upon

to

inject a bit of\\'himsr inro rhe ward robe.

The tattersall waistcoat em semble.

I I

C

Ooo]Ac Tn o USB I~'·" lSTC

"Since you asked, sir, I tecommen.d aplain white sl1irt witl1 that su.it and a no-nonsense tie."

Throughout most oF the nineteenth century. all ·gcntlenicm's undcrclothirig was made of line n. The word "linen'' bccatne a generic ren11 for a tnan·s undenvear. The dress shirt functioned exactJy like tbe modern T-shirr br keepilig sweat mvay from the outer garments while

pro recti ng the body From the coarse outerwear m<1terials. HoweveL propriety demanded that only its coll;,1r and cuff be vi~ ibl c. hence the term ·'showing lin en" mea11t that vvhire lit~ e n at the neck and hand was a sign oF gentility. As recentlr as the late 1940s. it was as shocking for a man

to expose his dress shirt in polite society a!) it would have been for a vvom8n to walk into a restmLrant wearing·no thin~ over her brassiere. <...

L'

The modern dress shin's shape developed dnri11g Vkto6an tim.es as men do n ned tight vvaistcoats. fo'rerunners· of the modern vest, thqs rendering the :full- cut shi.rt obsolete. Once the HltTent dress shi rt's body shape \\:as establ.ished. the col lar became its most distingtt.ishing and

Elsl_;.ion-setisitive feature. In Uho. a hcmscv\'ite in Troy Nnv York. changed the face of men'~ l~1shion. J Janna Montagut: \:Vas

the wiFe of a h.1stidious blacksmith who insisted on a clean shjrt

every eveni ng to arrenq his ci\·ic engagements. Vexed by the daily drudgery of laundering. she Iiberated both the s hirt and herself by cutting oFf the calLus. binding the edges and ncckb~uids, and attaching .strings to hold them in place.

At first, Mr. Montague .,IVas disturbed b) his detflchable coUar. but the idea caught on among his fr iends. and soon Th)y housewives \Ne re snipping away. The o\\'ner oF a general store

recognized the commercial possibilities of this simpler shirt and started manui~Kn11'ing some in his back rt)O nl. Almost ove rnight. Troy abounded vvith shops clamoring to tt.u·n out the detachable

collar. [n fact. American sh iiT-makinggiants such as Clueu Peabody and Phillips Van Heusen fi rst began as separate-colla t' manufucntrers in the Tro) area. Septtrate collars rose to the pinnacle of t'"a."hion in the years preceding the First \iVorld VV;,u·. when the commercial artist J. C. Leyendecker created the m
the 'Separate double, or turricd-down. collar. However, wru- forever changed its destjny \1\fith five \ll.ill io n men serving tkt€'i r ~Country i t~ government- issue soft attacbed~.collat shirts. the vvar

dce:1lt a blow to the ~epa rate stiff collru· from which ic nevet 1·ecoveted. By the la,m ented that the United -tares \vas alone in its espousal Gf the

collar-~utached

1920:.; ,

a-itiGS

shirt for town

\Year. By the early 1930s. sof1- double collars we re accompanying the new dinner jacket. a dt:vel-

opment that sparked conside rable debate. Advocates of the stiff tollar regarded it as the keystone of classical male cleg;Jncc, the last b2stion against slovenliness. U

A youthful Anthon),. Eden

L

(preceding page) dons a dress shiJ'twith a stiff. attached straigh t-

point collar. Notice how rightly knotted ·allrl therefore. smalL the ,knot had to be to fit into it'5 starched e1'1virons. The knot's positioning tlp, into. and directly out from under the stiff collcu·'s inverted ''V', -point became the cr.iteria of smartness for the emerging :mft-collar fashions. Ju~t as the tailcoat mentored the dinner jacket's evolution, the older .stiff-co llar,s design 3bet_-red that of the newer .soft att:::~ched-col lar deconLm. Even todar. a dress shin appointed with a pw·posdy tied neckie 3ffecting :.1 crisp knot si tting high in its collar is stjiJ a.n expression of an authoritative and

polished practitioner.

PLAY YOUR BEST LINE

ne of th~ most important but least unde rsrood Functions of male attire is to l ~ad the viewer's q 1e tow~u-d the f~Kc. Unde ,·standing the subtle balance rhe1t should ex ist between a m:.111 's most visible and e'\prcssive body part- his ~~Ke-and the clothes that lead up to it is a

prerequisite of fi nc d ressing. By , .j rn1e·of its pro xi miry to the r=acc and irs con Figuration of angle. scale.
constitutes the cynosure or· a man's tai lo r~d cosnlmc. Sc,·cral dy1w.mics work to direct the ' i~wer's

focus Loward th is area. First of all. iris d1rcctlr uoder :1 m'"u,·s most an imated featu re. his f~Ke. Sec'

oncl this triangu l
lighr~r

shirt, silken tic and du lled or matre ~hirrin g. etc. gain. keepi ng in mind that t he face is that destill<.ltion where one's dress ·hould be escorting the attention of the beholder. think or the face as a picture : 1 nd wh<:lt suno unds it as rhc frame. 'vVhcthcr or not the. color or pattern of a dress shirt coordinates perfectly with an outfit. irirs collar is too small, the head will appear large: if the collar sits too lm\· on the neck. it \\:ill ma ke the neck look longer than it is. The choice of a dress !\hirt should be guided fi rsr and fo remost by rhc appropriatencs1-> of its coUar to the \\ eatTI·'s I~Ke. rather tha11 the ,·icissihtdes of !~1shion or person::~! "'him. Ghoosi ng the app ropriate shirt collar requires a bit of experimentation and a li ttle common sense. A ~ma l l picture requjres a compar:1ble frame. just as a smaller man with delicate Features requires a collar of mo re restrai ned dimensions. Conversely. when the content is mo re expansive, t he frame must enlarge ro aftord proper balance withouT disn acting from the intended focaJ point. Just as large t;;lblctops beg fo r ample pedestals. heavyset or big-boned men require more ful ly proportioned col hr~.

For e.\.ample. former President

Clinton compe11satcs for his larger jaw with slightlr spread collar~ \Yhilc balancing his Ful l face ·with vgenerous!)' scaled, ~

THE CYNOSURE OF THE TAILORE D MAN 'S PRESENTATION .

long- pointed ones. Both Conan O ' Brien and Dm·id Letterman pos ess pronounced jaw!incs and favor dress shirts'' ith brgcr-proportioncd collars on camera. T ht length nnd spread of the collar points should complement the head's co nto ur and size. Long straight- po inrcolbrs. those 3 inches or more. with li ttle spread between rhei r points. \\'ill extend and narro\\' a "ide countenance, just as the broadly spaced poi nrs of a spread collar will counterbala nce

;1

long a11d narrow

l1Ke. Long- necked men require talle r colla.r.s with wider

neckbc111ds that l·aisc the collar's height. whi le shortnecked men need lower-sitting collars \\'ith a more for" ard lope. The tab collar or other pin-affixed collars pn)\·idc the add itionaJ height thar can diminish a long Founder qf'Black enterprise magazine, Earl Gnives employs a long poirttedfull-scale collar to balance his lionesque visage.

neck! i ne. The writer Tom \!Volr:C presents a fairly srrikitlg image \·Vith his lchc.1bod Crane-height co l l ~1 rs. almost Victorian in thcir sriffness and grandeur, but

they do camou!lage his longer neck. Collars .should also counterbalance the f;.Kial

structure by ejrher sorrcn ing it~ dominant line~ or strengthening its We;Jk o nes. Long-pointed collars th8t are either pinned o r buttoned down will help to coumennand Faces ·with angular

features and strong lines. A Ful l l~t.ce that .sags around SMALL COLLARS MAKE A LAROE HEAD APPEAR LARGER .

the chin or checks dema11ds a stiffer collar to counte ract the effects

L)f

age

~111d

grm it). \ Vhile soft burton-

down collar<; arc classically ty li.sh. they are too ortcn fa, ored b) rhe double-chinned set, who should e'\p re~s l r avoid

them in Iieu of,, slightl )' firme r collar.

T hroughout 1980s ;:111d llluch of the J 990s, ill an effort ro give men a mo re Gl."ual air. fashion designers Lmfornmately tried to neutralize the dress sh ids n·ad itionally d ignified and ordered format. Dress shjrt colbrs we re .shortened. lm,·crcd. and softened to such a degree that their original stylistic precepts we re eithe r disto rted

beyond l·ecognition or lost co mpletely. Abbreviated button -do\\ n collars could no longer roll. shortened straighr-poim collars losr contact with rhe shirt's chest. and spread collar.s sat so low on the neck from their diminished colh:tr bands th ~r they vvcre sapped of :;:dl rhcir inherem llair.

MEDIUM TO LONG STRAIGHT-POINT COLLARS

SPREAD COLLARS COUNTER·

LON G NECKLINES REQUIRE

WILL NARROW A WIDE COUNTENANCE .

BALANCE A NARROW FACE ,

HIGHER-SITTING COLLARS .

Other than the Jerm yn ~ treet or odd bespoke product. nowada)S most men nre wea ring dress shirrs \·Vith collat·s roo small for their face t hat sit roo low on their necks. And. '' ith the spread collar's ren1rn to the fas hio n forefront. those men vvbo have adopted the so-called h ~1l f- or full -Vlind!'ior tic knot have succeeded only in e:'{accrbati ng the problem. as its bulbous mass inYariably fo rces the collar's already truncated length po ints even farther off the shirt's che T forhtnatel): tO\:va rd the late 1990s. dress shirt aesthetics began

to

follow that of suits br returning to their cusrom-t~1 il ored

roots. Fueled by an Ital ian reviYal of classical clcg::uKc and rhe emergence of artisan- made clothes. bigh-c11d menswear stepped into the new millennium on bespoke footing. A plethora of ready-made dJ·ess shirts are now beginning to 1-e' anu·e collars that no longer h.ave to apologize fo r their style-defining presence. ·

Tom \!Volfe's t:alkollar· cammiflages his long neck.

ON THE FACE OF THINGS

nlike o dx~r less ,·isible acco utrements such as hosie r\' o r sh if't cuFFs, the shirt coll
integral and highl y tTH~alingge~tuPe of personal style. All sop histiGltcd d resse 1·s have <.UI"i\cd at o ne or more collar styles tbat best highlight their unique feattu·e.s whJe adcLng n bit uf dash

alo ng the ,;,-~1): The foiiO\ving me n ill~tstrate hmv tbeir physjognomy and sens~ a ( style inAu-

iS I NG

cttccd their choice oF dre~s ~h ir t colbr.

Mrl N

THE STRAIGHT-POINT COLLAR

,;ccausc the srraighr- poinr collar was the colJar shap.e gracing mos t millta ry- issued dress. sh irts since \~ 1 VV 1, it has long been the foundat iun of the mndcrn man·s dress shirt wa rdmbe. As the most stylisticall ),. neutral of al'l coll :1rs, the

str::tigh t- poi nt coHar can be wo rn wit h

~my

kind of

sui t or spo 1·t jac ket. Ideally, its collar points should finish

bet\·VCC I11. 3/4

inches ond 33/ s inches in length.

The narrow opening between irs points favors a

rou.nde1·, oval-shaped face. rarher than a nar row one. Here is rt man who chose to ti tle his autobiography Lr Tt.Jol< Nine Tiii!Grs. As one of lloll y,-vood '~ great early Leading men. Adolphe ~~fenj ou vvas also one

of its lead.i ng dand ies. Jlet·c he is tailored to hi1:i own measu re in a long~po inr ~ol.l;:u· with jusr rhc righr amount ofcakulated disobedience to pla) the han·ied

polit ical boss in Frank Capra's The Mtul Behind the Presi-

dettt. I-:1is collar's casual deport111cnt not only de fangs his aggrcss ivel)' .stri ped bespo kc su itiJl g but also serves to elongate his OV
11=you \vcre fceJ i ng unensr that rh is. coll;.l r presentatio n was overly ball yhooe~. consider the

ne\:t victim. Here's a dJ•ess shirr perJo rmauce rhat is

dcfinicclr laying an ~gg. Engl and's L~sli e ll oward i~ pictured tak i11g ~l stl'oll o n deck as he returns to ELu·opc aboard the SS Berc,ngaria (and, let's hope. to a

Leslie Howard i11 a collar stylt accentuates his mtrr01vjac

glXKI Jcrm)'ll .)trcct chemi~ic r). I low he has 111~111agc.d ro en me up \\'ith exactlr Lhc wrong collar

For his Face is
thL~SC

or his

r:lce k·;n c otf. rendering his aIread) gaulll \'i:\~lgc e\·en more bnk. If there C\·cr \\aS a prj me C111 -

d idatc lor a spn.~<.ld-collcH ~hi rt. \ la.stL' r I lm' ard \nmld be it.

THE SPRE1\D COLLAR

lh. ' '-pn.'.ld O:\lhJr hi.l~ be~n the kc} srane of rhr rngli h bespClkl! look slllCC the doub)c col lar caml~ ro nm 11 during rlw c~lrl) 1920!-i. h~ intrl1duction 1~ "id'-'1} auribmed to rhe famous P rin~o.·l· <.11- \\a l ~~. probabh due

hl

hi~ alk:ged t:rc-alinn oC the \Vind~or knot dml \\as supp •'ed to

l'~(\)J'I i I. In r:li1'll~~~. it "<1~ fGlll) lti-.;} oungcr hrlll her. rhe ])l'G1liSC

or lht: sprca~_i \ inht:l'i.:'llll)

d r\''iS}

nuke nf Kc.Jir. who first p0pulanzcd ~t

nnd L'legant Dl.'::tring. it h.L become h.1da~,

mosf implll't:lllt dress ~hirt CL)IItlr .\, .spread Cr"'lbr~

hL' !gh t. pur m lengll1. :liH.i open nco,;~. there are usual I}

\:11')

sCh>r:II

gre;:ul} 111

model. Ihnt

wilJ llanc.r :lily ma11\ head shape or profile Ifani) for \:lnt't). some \c.:r .sinn ul· lh~ sprl·r11J cdlar ~huuld be a perman~nr fixLnre

111

all mcn·s

\Yard robt.:s. \ lrlll'ugh Prince Chark·~ mar~ rhi~ perfccl mb]caux of ro)al ~hirrmaking b, being caughr wirh his Cinger in hi ear. hi-. collnr ~m:hi,

reclllre i~ ·pot ~r111 (top l~ft) . The height, point Jengrh. and ~prcad of hi.

Turnbull & \:-"er glen plnid coll<1r Pl'inr..,; arc pcifecd) '} rnmetric:.1l \\ id1 the conrour.s

or hi-; I.Ke

'-otice ho" the. collar\ pl1im~ rouch hb che..-t

whil~ I'Clllt:li11 i11g tud~l·d under hi' coat's rront. e\ell \\ht?n flj~ head I~

wrned, one o( the 'rrcad\ p1·anical adv<.lntage." O\l'l' ~)thcr rnodt..~k In ~1dd nion. the: drmplc o( hi, l~our- rn- hand knot falJ, Jircnl} u11der rhe

"\ "po1nt ;Jt chc coiL.11·· top , \nd ju.st for good m~a~ure. nor icc tb::u hi . . ~IcC\ c cuA-ha-. not rcccdl'd from ,·icw, l''\·cn when hi-. 31'111 e:-;:rend'. cour tCS\' '

nr tb longer ._ !'Ice\

L'

and cJo,e fit of it~ cuff around hi' "ri't

lkc.lll'L' rhc majority of ltalia11 men are ~rnaller~buned.

lllO!-t

fanq ~ome 'cr.., Jon of LIK -.pread colbr. FabJO Borelli. one of lml}\ nl'\\ gencratton of shrrr ~ m~1k111g scions.

do'' 11 almo"t

tl1 .1 pLHlll ,

j.., 1111

c'.ccption. A. . hi~ l~cc t:1p....r ..

the $prcad collar ~~

111

fan. tlw onl) po,,ible

dcs1gn abl~ to coumcr~1ct such a conrom: B~..m:ll t

ha-. L'mplorcd ~1 l11ghcr-sirring 'Pf(;'.1d ~.·oll.tr ro betlcr F1-a.me hi~ I~Kc " l11 lc t i11 ken ng \\ ith rrad 1tiL'll wi rh L) piGll It:&l i.tn5prr::mmi1 (botto111l~fi) Pon·t think l~1r ~l minutL' rhm Ius cnlbr', :-light bo" ing. the minutd} ,k~wcd .mgle ur hi' knot. ~>r ('\en the pcakmg ('lr hi .. de\ under bl:ldc h.1ppcn tl1 bL· l.:'oinCidencL'. Tt) rhc conrr:Ir). 1his demon,tr:ltton of noblesse IH:gligctKe 1., .llh'thcr rcmindcrL)f:.m almo~t culmml prcdi ptlsl rjon bv lr:tlr".. :-t\ k· co~nn-,cemi ro conrinualh rc'h'rk rhc c..mon . . ofrng Ii-.h r.l ...lC \\ hu ,,,b rhar the male ~PL'Ctc' j, an} lcs drcorari' c minded u

--------------------------

'

---------

-

£han th~ fi?m.1k·: lit,,, L'\ cc ltkc In~)-.r .1-.p~...·r~ of 'l) Ii.:-h habil i llll'IH.

LTll'-'

"'·l~g.111C"'' rc~idcs not i 11 rhe.:

elm he-. lhem cht!'' but in ho'' rht:} ,.tr~ '' ont llerc·. rhc -.prL'::td collar ,:um \\ irhJ,or knct' llhJ~l in"'id~Hig~1blc champiun. the acror .lnd Jllthor 11oughb rnirbanb. Jr. (bdon~. ThL·

lllnlllL'IH thi~ Clllbr

Jnd krll)[ 1~;1111 hit

I.HL'

L L)JJ

d n luruor nnmediarch e1doprl·d ir. l.'\('ntualh bcr.Jmin\! its lil~·l . .,nu ~1mba,sc.1dor. h1irb.tnb's •

J

cnthu''·' m 111.1\ haH" h.1d .1~ nmch

to

'-

.._

do'' ith the l:.tr~"'· klll'L and cnllar's ~arl: .Kccptancc b) rhc

beau monde as" nh it-. alleged in~tig
1.! 9 TIH

D Rf.SS

SIIIRT

OPI='OSITE :

•

\\ 'dl-proport(OIIt'J spn·ad collars as li'OI'II b}' Priuet' Chtrrlt·s cmd Fa(,;o Bol't.'lli LEFT:

Dt1ug Fairbanks witb spmul collar tlllcljitll \ Vindsor kuut. •

---~

j

TilE I~OUNDED COLL 1~

"·ulbr

shitt

t·",d). l'.trl~

111.!1~ t·lub~.lli'Jl(<:' it!' r :. II\ l• l .\1 \ N

ti~.·rh

\riJ thl~

uf the \\nrld' m' t t ~.h tllll11iker. the ..,J,,b .. u)lbr I h~..· frttlll'U' \rrd\\ t:n11.ar ad .. 111 tht t..lrl h'• L·llll.tr stgndltnl

lllllllh

-r. . lup iJJ

Pllt:

11

l!clpl·d ll) t'lcutc tht ~ ~'' ll' llrolbr liltht• p.ulth..:t'll ('fda . . ,cdr"" ~lurt ·~.II H"> .\s .1 ~lli'L .llt.tdu!'d ,·oll.lr the duh cniiJrbeL".mre on~ .-(rh~ 19~oso m "l p •P J.u·f ,flu . . h.tpl':> 1u be \H'J"il ptlllll.'d IL' l.'lll"\\..' pl.tp. \J p.trucul.trh \\dl under dtL' Jc\ tdc ~ thlltt• II L"hi~~.·ll•d \l~ag~ \ltlt,,uglt dw clt~b cnll.tr r.uL·h c.l\tH'l!-i mHtmg thr..: ma'- t: tfu, huld hr fh m \ it ruri:m !\l)Cll'l) '"·a11 l)ff.hlOil dl} hl' lcmnd h~1bnubbmg" uh tht cu-.tum t.uf, rt d ' l l C\.'111111'}

Ilen·s o11t' ~r \mtTtnl ~ 11ftl5tJ1slt fmralllt' Stltrtlll tt'S,

4\ Iilwul Jilfdrn. Jp1mill..~ 1111

carl}' im•oc,ttiou, aslwrr. st[f}: to·tlttm:Jt cf,£, r,)nu:

Tl-IE TJ\L~ CO LL;\R

tgun

Ill

thl' JlJ(,(),

\Jthough it' pnpul.trin h.l:- \\:111cd due 1~1

til('

ill('Xtlf~lblc ('~1SU!lli:t~ltilll1

m.-IIL' J:1 ha,lt the t.Ib coll.l r r~mai 11 •.., a fd\ 1,ll"lt C ll ( tlw~t' ~C\.' kiII ..g t h:t t ('X tra

Tlt..· tah \..llll.1r tutht be dc~ignc~..f perl~~,-tl} l~lr the tk" knot

h.l

Ill L.:.liKC 0

or

r n;H Lj 11\.'S'\

r·~..·~t cPml1)r-rablr in

Ij I

ih l'Fk'tl

'rllr.DRlSS

mg '-pect.tll.tb-.la.'lL'Il rl> c.tch ~.Hh:.·r Luh.ll'r the tic\ km't tu huld tlw (lllhu··,. pt)illt" in pl ~K~' 1hnt.st

S If nrr

mg dt~,• ~h1n cull:w .mJ rJt•ckrie knot higher up llllLI..:r d11.:· \\~,·;m.·r'.s chi11 l t,llg ll~("kcd r1tl' ll "ckurne

rht: rnb l11ghcr po moiling "hile the t\mnd or ~qu;lrc ,lmp~..·d \ i..;agc apprcl."r~ues 11s lt..)rrgitLII...lin:ll ,, mnwtr t )nguull) a 't'f-"''CCial br.t':- srud 'elur~,·d d ,~,. culbr I
bmwnh ,lc ~1pp.1r.1nt' •~ w.ualh substlllll\:'1..1. 1ltl\H:\Cr ,1\ "trh mt,:st uld \Hlrld ,,c,u· .tbk· 1he ung111.tl bra's 'tud :;ull pn,jcct' :t tn•'ll polt"iltcJ llph• tic..nton tl1.1n it' Jc,, \ t4iu.JI mc.xil.'ru urrog3le'Hnt.lin'.

.111

\\t.'r tn til~

'l\

'

1~.~11

suprl'lll,t(} ',( \ nll·nc.t\ I red \'ram:· w.t"

tlwtr l1\\ n

tLlrt}

rhe"pi.tn artJ huofcr l.h.·k

nudt.m.m In be cnllcd J

:t .. Hnch.man ..

\))mplmtl'lll. su~L"'tlllg

\\ .t~

the r~crp1em

knL.,_, lu ... \\.1\ .lround J fi trin~... room \ nd tha' Hu ·h.m.m gtl\ t"ould outfit " \\llh th. ocst ot"thcm

lmn~cli

jm:l.: Hudwuau, the always natty IJO(!f~T. ,md Britams tmsn•cr Ia Ameriuts fred ,\stlllrc. L---- -

T

I)l.NNED COLLARS

one pt)tllr during the 19~os. nt:nrl~ half nf all \mcrican men repun~dl}

du...Jr dr\~s~ ~hwt cllllnr pinned. fod.l}: It" nuld be surprising to flud unc.: man in .1 hundrL'd o appumtcJ t

\nnw

llll'H

\\Ofl:

lfth.lthe pinncJ C"01Jar ru.SS) : 11101\l IUL'Il ar'-' simp!~ imirllld3ted b) lt"i ob!Jgatuf} nggmg

~:on.-:idered

hr man~

,_,r cr~lbred carnage

,hin ..:maJH' to bt: rlw· pinnnrle

tin

1s

nor

th·~·k t r:1pping w hide bdtind. L'tllik,, 1hl· t:tl t :m ;1) or hul wn du\\ n. rhe pinnl!d coll.1r"s ~>nJi,h 11~''-S l'l~Cs ()J' Ctlls ill n:l:lli(lfl l't'l l'llL' ~ki ll its C:>:t?cution. \\L•aring it \\llh pnnach~ dt.>mandt, .lin rJc pr.h·t·kL'. "l)fi1C tll.111UllJ dt:>\'lL'I'it}. illld ;1 bi1 o( p:tt it'lll'C.

or

runctiu11i11g lllLIC"h likt' thL' t:Ih, Lning dw

thl•

pi1111Cd \-\)liar

l';li l'.:i

the ric knot L1p Oil illl' llCCK -.hort

ltl1 tg_llcd-=. The ~t raighr puitll '' t:n ic:~lit) \\ C')rk w countt.'rpoint the rounded or O\J) con

totm.•d lt~.?al{ nr chin. Hack in their hl'htl\ collarc, \\C'rt• Gm hed at , , in the thirties, strnigln-nninr ..._: r· bet'\\ ec-n 3 inche.' ond 3' m~1king \.

2

inches long.

rhem n3rural candidarc~ for

pinning up. The mo"t common app.1

r.nu' "a. . a pbln gold ....Ift:q pm.

llC\l

was a :-;on· or~pring-loadt•d :-,I ide mcch i111i!'lll;

while the aftciunado u~t"d a bar

''it h sh:1pcd end,., rh~n Ull!ilJ'C\\'tX-1 10 fit

through 'Pt>L"iall~ m~ldt• colla! t'~ dcts Tht• next step in 'ur:h collar :Kcou tremenr wa' m a(quire one dccrm11c..-d

'' ith a 'porring molif such

.1!>

a goli

dub. pol . ., malice or riding O\.lp following dte 'aml' pnnnplt~

nf ~ryli...:h neck rigging. lhc pinned club ~.:·olbr rr.m ... pln"t~ 0nc quieth 01110f dte

ordinrtl) r·m·t~~ning 'nugl~

beneath the

1ic ku0r. rht' n_,m1lk'd Ct,JI.tr t ..lt:' .ue

rite "e<1rcr':. '""JII.1r ltcighr. ~m1 trs ~

l~~--------------------------

LEFT

.''lllk.s Fifth i\l't.'nuc:•-former dUJ;rmarJ, thr fl'iT clt"~llut Plrilip B. j\ filler, dmmiug his sigmzture lcm~~·~olut collm· 5tcum! h}' asimpit-gold Sl!f~' pm. ~

--------------------------- -- ]_ ....---------

-

I 1

Riclt,ml Mrrkit1. t,;, ned to pti~{t:ctiou .

•-#: 4 .. • • •A...f.O. J:IU.J'rr\,

. .. ;1;; wwt . 'It;

..• ,u;,. 11\.RAJt

l

ftt:r rmrndcrllUtline harmoniz~' panicubrl} well

\Hth rht: quJn.- or angular j:m line \\"id1 no p~Jim ... to curl

up. bend 0\ cr. or go .tSke\\. the rounded pm

collar r~rn:IIIt\ trnn &md rid} throughour the d.1y. \rtto;,t

\\ ntl·r

and

\H~II-known ~ew

York roiT

Ptdutrd ~lcrlcin pins lu' collar to perfection (rigl!O.

Tl-fE BU TTON -DOWN COLLAR

ntta.1fh popul.lnzed b} ~meric:1n port ... men ~llld htstcrn uni' cr~it) men during tht: 192t)~ and

ll)JO-.

the oxford buttcm~down

i~ ,\mcril:a\ ..;oJ~

drc \ htrt fJshtOtl Sfnce \\ C.'lrld \Vnr 11 .

CI)Jit rilnll itltl IU

rllt'LJpC:lll

door rep uf lt'i hrme. 3.~6 ~1ad1son A\l!rtuc. to lo:1d up

th~ Jt.:~xicon o( pcrntallC tH

~Ill hu~i;tsts have descended upon 011

rt.:ccnrl} nu elegant male could t.rn(url hi~ stripe witlwut

tlw

this uni\.]liC AnH.'nran da~~ic. Utuil at

lc
tl"\tord gracing hts clo"l.;t \\ rth dr..: tgner men \\t:ar helpmg to blur the disrmctton bet"~cn tlispns~blc :mll penn•1 nrnr t:Bhwn Brook<> Hrorher~ ha! fun her muddied the \\:Her.; b) abdicating t~ f\Jic a.' the ptl'tcc-

mr~u of \mcnCJ tr.1d1ttonnll"dsluon \s goe.' Brooks . () goe. rlw buttt-.n-down The 1\1 l caguc

l k \\.1. the l.tsr parrictJn in~;pircd men\ fi1shion to establish it"elf betorc the mors of!\ mcric;1's upper -cLt· Llst~ "'~rc di placed in the uphca,al nf the 1960!' Pcacack RcYollllion. \Vcrc H 11ut 1;w

-

--

---------~-----

- ----the \ i"ion .md g~Jt m1s uf IL1Iph I .mrt·n \mt~r Ka'... \'eq O\\ n n;~mmf ,Jwuldt..T '1' It \hlUid

h.t\L' f(>lhm~d lu-. alm,J nuter 1\n,Pl. Brurht•f

illLl' ~.J rll1rial ccltp"L"

·rradiwm.tlh (hd i11n,uc

da

!11Tll:'11),

Lxh

l

nntmt 111 I. h.nl

)'\.:Jr. .1 'm til r,ucril- ( (

J-r~'IH."h nnt.4 ltnlian ml.·rchHH\ uU~r" up

tl"iCI\\11

1.1ke 011 1 ht! h ~ l.t?nguc look in~prn·J lT\ l ))J \\~-:wid

ll nng.L:\,

I

~r \menc.Ui "iftCic[1 &

dl

ria~ in

"-:~·" pl 'n or Palm H~.~arb

\ Vltt."n ho~Iin!! .. :J necktie thl hutwn

dm, 11 collar prLljCl."l' .:~bout the :o;:tmc lrh·l of ~.Jrc:-. . inc-.!- as the n~l\} hl.lh'r llr \\t;it.'Jlln 't\ It!

lt•:1lcr. t'\t' uf ir, more fi·equcm rocnn-.pir:unr...

I ike Llll' blue bi.IZer. [ht: c1n

trxl~m.1

buncm

dll\\11

bt> dn?s..,cd up or do\\ n :1hhwugh 1t t~nd~ tn

t"O tl!'-nn lllL)rc

1~1hrits

o•mlunabh '' ith l1kc

lc\.t-un.:d

"LKh a~ llmmd ur "' l..'t·d fn rhr burtt. Ill

dnw11's ~.1lnd d~ip:. all 'l)'IL' \\.1!\ I~Jrl~·itcd ,!Juuld

its pl •im.; brk ~uftkient kngth

h)

pl,t: r:I-.wtl.

----------ABOVE:

Scquestad .uniJ irs crm;ir~ cir:.o 1950, the buttotJ·dowJI isjllwkcil br otlrrr ll)' Lraguc both1 jldt's, sl!} i, 5houldtr tu wd span _jc;ckct. m![ird smr.f]mwt'ls.foulm·Jfallr-in·h·wd. ,1,ll>Jkiu \'rst. 1111d s/ri'·Llll ttlt'Ctast'ns.. LEFT

Spc,1kilt~ t~(tlwsc u•htl like rhm:fi1sJu'on

unlmtttltzt'd. ,,bst·n•.: s,~utlr .. Bnrbtras sldglu tlf/umd. Nm btli/Jt'riH£ ,,, brlfl.tiiJ his L't,flar~1tnls. . lrt· 5t't'mS ftl hr~rc trmrtd 11 blind l')'i: tothasr <1U his J•1dm t15 wdl. Barbera..'• 51.}'/ish impt~/i-aum Jut• bt'c'' parrlr inspired br his Cl'lll1tr}':' ol!'lt ~i~uc1r at'srric. Gmr1ui .Agm1li 6-r.rpagr :!Jo) ..., . ~

~----

- 1

l

- --

--------------------

--

rnll t>h'r .md

I "' CRO CtofFC"K 8LUI! BA"llSTE

1.

I I

I

j

1

ETON BLUE ENlXJN•END BROADCLOT>-t

HIGH-COUtiT MULn-TRACY. BLUE BROADCLOTh

\mH fANCY BOND STREET STRIPE

CttAMB~V GRAPH CHECK

L!Gt-flWEIGI'iT F.ANC'r" WEAVE

BLuE 8A'n5Tff.

OLIVE l·11NI.CHECI\ POPUI'f

0PCrt·WF".AVE l IOHTWtiCHr

0£!l..iFT BI..UE P£!14CIL.-5TR!PE BROJ-\C>Cl..OTH

BLUE O>tFOnu

COTION/LUiEN PASTEL BLUE MADRAS STRIPE

CAMBRIDGE BLUE C.-.r•m· Sl?JPE 8ATIST£

·r

.

'

CRIMSON HAIR U HI! CtiECK

( OFHIFLQV/1 R BLUE C.oTTON/Lti~L t~ PoPL.III

,

12 ~~

~,. I~

'~ I~

t'

''

r•

I•

• I<

,,

I'

f ilii

~~

"'

I' l• h

I'

lq-

~~

I·

,.,.,

I~

f•

I"

I·

I~

,_

~~

I,

F

F

l>

~~

1- b

,,. f1t l f r 1 t

1= r~

I~

t~

,-;

I~

1;:

•

1-

~~

,~

I;

·-

FITTING TJ-IE DRESS SI-IIRT

th rht:"' ex\:epriun ;..)(the (r:.lian~. wh0 blJt\.l~..·r t\ll

dn...:s' ~hirt:-.. mo:-l men \\C;Jf their~ roo tight ... iu the neck roo ~h<.'rr in rh~..· ~k·c' c. nnd hXl tl.JIJ.uound th~..· wri~l. The explanm ion l~1r thi.s i~ n. .•l .1 thl'l~ ~1111ple- ,u.:xe..,,ih~ ,,,c.hin~ "hri11k rlw collar .sizt• and d11..'

f~ti'hl'llL rd.tti\l~ t1..1 rhl..' fir of rhcir

kc' ~ lcn~th. '' hif~ mo't manulacturcn...111,)" cnuugh cttFr • ,, idth t~)r a l.u·gc Rol~..·:-. - . . izcd watch to drh·e rhrough. ~

~

,hirt i~ u.;de'"· \\ i£h the top bunon cll):-c-~..L

f\\O

f'inger~

should be .1blc ro ~I ide com tortubh bet\\ ccn l he neck and rhe coll.tr or,} fl('\\ ... hirt \lo:.r fine .. ltirr 111~1kl'r. :tdd all I

l'\.U'il

hnlf inch to the ~mr.~d collar ~ize

r1..1

i(lr ~hrink­

al111W

5EMl-'SPREAD COLLARS SHOULD HAVE NO TIE SPACE

.1geduring the fir r se,~ral \\a.;;hing' Should the coll:lrl)f~l n~\\

drt:'- shirt ftr W perfecTion \\hen fir...,l

tl'll'd

AND POINTS LOI'fG ENOUGH TO BE COVERED BY THE

011. l'l'l'lll'll

JACKETS /'IECKLINE

nor risk bemg 'Lmnglcd bcf0rc ro") long .\-..the WI"•L)·:-. ~~.xund ~kin. th..! shrrr should l.it' Cl1111~

fun.auh \r a mmimum it :;hould be cut full t.:lll'ttgh ro :tlh)\\ Llw w~arcr ll) sit without cotKt'rn \\ hcth<.~r it~ fwm \\ ill.(}lpl' opcR ili.."l'Ch' (lLTt

th~ che t

r\Cil

mXlll:ll.shrinkagc 1JI' \\l'lght

o1· \\ ai't. The :-.hi n'.s (l\ cr.1lllc ll~L ... h

l~1r

galll' shottld nnr cr1.~~1LC lc.m~ioll

shoukl be ~u\.'h rhat \'( 1u c:m rai..;e \ 'Our mIll' " uh

it pulling out of the trow•cr rop. \\"hen n necktie is worn the collar\. point.s tlltght

tl)

h~ .1blc m rcm:1in in t0uch

"irh the

hu-r' bod} no m.Hl'cr ho'' the wc.an:.-r llll'll' hi . . hc.1d Sl.·mi spread to cut.1\\ .1y c~.lll~ro• should h~n e

no

th.'

p:tccabme thL· ric"... knor. \\ith po1nL' lung ~.:taougl& robe ~..-mer~..~d bv rhc j;Kh·r·~ neckliue.

'\nd finLilh nu p:~n nf the colbr·, ncckband ~hl)ttld pc~k out n\l.'r rill' ric·~ knnr \\ hether barrd or rrl.'ll('h cull

rhc bin nun tit '"~:tugl) .lround ihe '' nsl ., th.u th~: addinonJilt•n,glh required ll' k~L'p the cul'f from pulling bhck wh1:n

rhc nrn 1

~~

e'\rendccl

dm, n d1t· hand.

dot:~ rtnt l~lrCI.:.' ir.

r -

I

IF THE SL.EEVE l.Et4GTH

I

I

CORRECTt...Y 1 THE WEARER SHOl)C..O BE

A13LE

TO EXfEND HIS ARM lf'l ANY

DIRECTI0~4

WITHOUT THE CLIFF

PUU.ING AWAY fROM THE WRlS-r.

hurt cull and hand

. . huuld mm e :l"'d.lllt!. Iftlw hand can t-1i de: thn,ugh thl' cufT opening \\ nhout 11rst nnt:l,tt>nmg '' httl

1t

tht' cuff\ nr",_unt~rencc

l.trgl! 0

~--~-

------

ANO CUFF FIT

---

I

--- --

--

DR.ESS Sl-1I fZT MODES

{1:\l

men arc r;ntght tv ~mplo}' tlw dre's slun a a harmomzerof the uit and

lll:Ck

tic \\he' ll tltc g.n g,_., L'i~hri~-. trnnsform~d 1he IH.>L"ktic into a rior of patt~rn the drt:,., ~Inn \\.lS

fo rcPd

t \.1

J-------

t.1k1-.

-

a backsc:lt \\'hik· the 'l"bd dn.' ~ "hin pro\'ide),

- ---

:1

blank can\a . . ou \\hach

tc.l

imprmisP theaccompli,1t0d dn.'·~cr\\rll frequemh optlrn·rht•

l~tnl) shin tn ~en c :1~ the cn~t·mble\ foLal p HIH necktie ~1 11d suit ja\rket

rltcn pa) Jl.'fercnce

llll!Sl

The f ngli!'lt cia's'} llH:'Ilt ll ,. rurnishing:-.. Ill llll'll

b}

tl!!lll

is rcspc Jllsihl\; for thi~ rcahgtt

pn!"~lr rjme..'i, 111U"f uppt't' d.l~li I ngltsh

t ) pically "orl" on I) 1h~..ls~ n~d. tiL'

'irtUL'

h:J \\ hicb tilL

rh.u d1c) \\ere emnled tn

.._,r a publi-..· 'ldmol. milimq regiment or pri\.HL' dub

a((i Ii,n inn. \~ the- 1) piral [ngl i~h ari.stocr.H CllJO} ed no more rhan a duz~n or so of these assocmunn~ ht

era' at cdk·crion

"3!:\

thereion.:• ~oml'\\ h:u

limitt•d. -f(, comrcn~att'. he ronk ll'\ di\~r,rf)

TOP ·

Punctttilting 11 plam

backdrop. the shirting's bold srnpe lights rtp both center stage t111d 1\Ir. J-lo111ard's l'isage

ing ht-. "('mbcr "Or'-ted....md pr(:dtnnbl~ duh

tics wirh ')llappicr- k,,_,king drc....:..: ..;hin

bcgcm acculllulming more dn.,.,, 'hirt' rhan n~ckric_ ,

bL'ltm.'

LEFT·

\ \' ith "polka dot dress sl11rt and a breast packet ~( pattcn·nrd .srlk. Douglas Fairbanks}r tmmps up his so/rd .suit cmd tic.

\~he

lt!nnyn Street~ ltkc "a' 1lc R1.J\\

it. b~c1mc an ~.:-mirl· ~trcct dt!~med ro

lhc cr:Jft t,fbL"spt'lkL' ,hinm11kcr~ A::.

rhe_x~

nt?xt piC! ure.•. an:e"1 du'

, pirircd drc~~ :-hin nltcrnariH' ran ll'nd -.m;l rtnc~s ro rhe wilorcd ~cennrill '' i l hout

compromi.-.ing the boundanc" L f £,ood tJ. te lkc.usc rh1" t~ m11ar rdi~, on .1 lugh dt.•grce o( cnuntcrpGint b~..·mcetl ~uiL. hin j[ lL'11d ~

t ('t

'Ill'.

JQ\'01" dll' htglh"'r· l'Oiltr.l'l (0111

plc\lun. I lo\\'C\ ~ r. n!len!ng :-ouch ~'nmpliGncd rh~111 . . L'~ui ng a

and

-;1

tn• )1\.iintlt ion l' no

mu~r

Cc" \.1f ~L"lllf nl'"i \\ardn.A>e .. w.ndb\~

Ih.::\ r Ll) d irt~rl"·n r di 11111.: r p~11-rncr~.:.

Iktt cr culbrcd and ll"l'king quire .. urc of himself: rhe [ngli~h .lLll)rTrt'\Or llow~1rd ddth 'J'c~a pot~miall~ Hat pre:~

cmaril'll b,· c:1sL 111~ ' .. hi~ JrL''' -.hirr in the leading rt..ll'.

--------------------------

--------~-----~ ~ -

DRESS SH IRT f\ EST l-1 ETI.CS

n addition ro tbrrcring.. d1c we~lrt·r. dte drl·'' 'hin ·dllluld t) p~ with an ourfit'_... sq·k· and le\'d

of formnlit} \\'hile \.iiffering collar ,t· k~ Ct)lllh'tl? \af) 111g degrCt.'' of dn.:s' up so Jtl certain ,hirt fitbrin.. fhe ~,1phi. rica red drc,~t.r "ould

lllH

normnlh

pa1r

a ~ptlrty butron-d,m n \\ ith an

dct!:lllt mn,. ~mit. nor would lw marc ~1 .;olgnt~ dn>" -.ltirt "1rh contrastlllg "hire collar wiLh a ... c.bu.tl t\\t:ed 'Port jackL't. Although rhe Ltl"<;c;~t~urc attitude of modern men\ t;1!'hinn ha~

obfu,c.-ntctl mall} o( rh<'~~..~ guidt:'lim_. . ., that ,.l(l...'gu.lrlkd glluJ ra.•m.~ sc,eml r~main thnt :11-c .st ill rcle\alll in J:--~c;;sing "hether a particular dr~..·-.s

'l11n will add <11' ~ubtract from nn cn.;cmbk·'s

imcndcd dre,,i IIC~!'. \ ,bin' lorm~1lir1 begin~ nr the collar. irs lllt)st prominent and defining feature. The

nffer rhe collar. the more lormal1t' lntcnriun-. Th~ more t>pen rhe coll.a.r·s point' rhc l.lre.ssicr rhc prc.!'enranou . \ conrra:-ring "hirl? Cl.)llar aurnmat icnlly adds ccrcmOn). while most tab or pinned col1.1r~ heighten the ~'crage solid or patterned dre"' .;.hin' pruprict\ 1.\ofrcr collar Cl)ll il~ur.utOn~ such a~ the buuon- down or u nsrarchcd long po11n rank lower on rhc formal i r; .scale

The cuff al..;o COil tribute~

to

the overall d"fcG. Tht• formal sh1rt's stit"C '\lllgk· cuii which

accompanies the whire r1c Jnd tailcoat


prc\Cilh

the lllo-,r formal arrangcmcn t \ Vhile Lhe

f rc..:nch cuff drcs:-c~ the hand more than the Sl
«;mtr..mb the tngle-buuon in wrisr dl.'cnrum . .... f .1bric 'l'rvcs as the next

indic:nor 1.1( Cnrmnlil'\. \moothcr L)r more lu,tmu~ m.tt~..·rial!' '

nrl' drc' icr \Vhit~ broaddlJth ranks ab,mt t:qually with" hitc-on- \\1hite broaddnth in l~>nn!tl ­

iq. '' hile "hire ro) al oxford run:-. a dusc .scc~md. \\1 hit~ ,·nik' l~1r summer inches (lllf rlw ''hit~ pmpoinr. \\ luch do~' the same ro tbt.: rcguhlr white nxrord. \ for nomdurc solids. blue brnadclorh registers bd<)W white-on-" hiLc but abmc the \\hire oxford in torm.lln} \Vhilc blue L'lll1-on-cltd nllt.:~ :1bnut equally wirh white pinpPint o :\:f0t\l. pink. pan.tcubrl} in broaddorh. is nor lar behind. ft llluwcd bv \ dlnw t)r gold. ran. and then green. A

fhc drcs~illC."

~

}

~

or a fany --hining is derermined b) the amounr of whirc in the design·~

ground \\'hite ground pattern~ di,play n mon:: f:t~t id ious air than a en bred ground !:1bric. mak ing them n step up on the fDrmali:Kldt?r. !11 n t\\t)~culur stnpc

11r

dwck wlh..·rc whit~.· is the

ground the bdder pattt:rn denorcs the 1~ .... dn.::-S) ~al'lll<'IIL l-iner srripl'' ;trl' lllOI'L' rl·remn11i.1l il. not mnr~ att~tL'rc than widely "P·1ccd ;;rripc". \\ hile:: the ~111a llcr dJc dlcck. 1)r plakl i11 ~, pallt'rm·d

-.hwung. the Jre!'sicr the (•(feeL l n gutct';ll. n hllri,.nrHnl - -arip.~d ~hin wdl n~ad drc~~ic1· t h:lll t ht: o;;amc ~n·ip~ running\ cnicall).

-

TilE OR.HS SlllR'T'

- -

--

----

SI-1I J~T ltlmugh pure whitt~ hr~~ trndttionall) been th~ color of choiCe I{ r a ba~1\_ dr\:"' 'ihnt medium blu~ ~Ktu.dl) llnn~r' 111nr~ rnen\ fact?" thnn "hit~ l)um \',hire ~m drain J\\,l\ \\hJt lutle na1uml rolor lllt'll {:'Xtrdc kk·' {,i,Jn pr•>ducer~ "ill ad' i c rnale gue~t'i

tt)

dun :1 blue drl'"' "hln to

\'t)lltpell~.nc ~1r the :-:;wdru's -.trtHlg ligl11 ing. "hich tend' tt • ll.uJt.•n and \\CJkcu tbL" rompll'~wm lu~t ~1s a tll:thl~gnm· t:-~ble lend~ a mnPc.:' l'xpen-.i'c :Htm ltl thr: irem

)R f." S"' :-.: G

Hr.

plxed on it mediUm

blu'-" t..:nl iH'th :tl l men ~t ,l~n rnnL\"i. r\ 11) l"~ dor Lll' lt~:'\ltl n.• pi.Kcd un llf nc.tr a 11 nc llt mhq medium b-lnc

M-,z...

drl's~ :'hin .llllt'lll~lli\·:111~ ~1ppc~tr~ wnrn1crnnd richer t\tl(';l't half of a JlJ:lJ]\ dll!C'n or~o dr\~"- "llln~

.... hnuld h.k:lll} he itt

'!JtlK'

mo:'l \CI'!i:Uile b.h..-kdr. . )p

'hade t)f ~nli~..l blul" or in :1 predominant)} blm: panern: The

rl)

l

pr\J\ 1dc tht:

Cllt'rdin~Hc a 1:1ilorcd ~.·n~crnhl~.· (~ce ,hn-r fabric~ gatL'fnld)

"-.uurnll1: 'nme blue hue~ ,Jffcr n'mplcxions moru help than t'lhcr:-;, bm then.: an: m k·;1~1

'L

\l'ral ~h.h.~l'~ <)f n1L·dium hlul' tltnt notabh' im·igorate C\Cn. mnn·. kin lOne nnd lu"t'-'r ...

The trick i:' ll~ rind the dt?L'f'C.'t -.h~dc ol-blue it.. \nd

tlt:1r

be misled b\' dw~'-' l1\t.'fC:l.St. .llllll)Sl ru\nl

It_:...(, rH.ll

I

l.nc \\ith

,jmilar ~ t~..mcd

and pt..:rmancnr r~1:--hion , \ 111n11

ingdL'l'P

t1JtW

,olid

numbt-r~ that

have been JlTlllllOh.:d of

'

rwcktic~.

lust~. red

The} art? ret another nni\'C :.Iberr.ltilln frnm good t.Jstc

by dw irJLhl'u ,.\ Jh..:c-d for -.bon tl!rm

"ith .srroil!l (OtHTa~t in hb Cl'llll1k·xi(l!1 G11l ~-' t

L'llJ.O\' ,1 I

Jl•)\ dt}

cnthlll:->.

l·a ir... hairl'd

and pro in

lnrgcr nlO\!e of colors. mclud '-

V

blue-. like dlL' (~ambndgc t"~r \-\cdg\\Ol)d -.hade.> fotl111..1 in fin~ l'\\

rn}.1l 1:\l(ltTL ur d~1rkL'r cnd-un l..'nd
highlight!' the face without di~tr:tcting from

'l

ph hnJaddnlit

men'' irh nultl'd complexion~ r.111 hal

their ligln~r tone" '' ith ,l,t't lntt?~o.1 blttL'' ,ud1 a-. end-on-end~. ln~(ords ••md mint check~

,,j,o,l '''-'a\l~~ u-.c \\hnL' to reduct: the blue's intt?n.sity. \\'ith :1~ummcr t.m.thcdcrnh ofhluectJn

bL· incrca~cd t•l play up the hcightcned colnr contrasr bct\\ccn ,l....iu and hair Cream or ran can be complimcllt~ll'}. though thl!_,c lo\\ - inu?n,it~ ~hade" dtl mure f'-H.

the muted than rhc ClHHr~bting cnmpkxion Pink is .:-omt:'time~ 'i~w'-~d .1' too fcmminc .1 ~hade far men~ ho" L'\ '-"r. d1e ptnk l>~ford butttm l·or

fift)

}CUrs.

dP\\11

h~b bc~n

:1

lindtpin ,,f ~lad1-.on. hultlc fort::

Pink ~11'\t) tlancn• th1..· m~} dweked Yi:-agt' \\'hen bcdu:-kcd \\Hh "comr.lstmg

"hit'-' L'olbr. and p;litTd with a dark gr.ty l't' nm~ :-.tnpcd ''or.srcd. the pmk end on end drl'!' .-.hi n , >I' b r, wdclut It d rl'~~ ~It l l't )cliP\\

t..lr guld

t:"Ollt i nw: ....t.s :1

toi1C'
perc 1111 ial (a, ~.lri reo Crill' Jenn ~ n . Lr~t.~l 'er

highl) de!'irablc bur .;rrnilarl) unden:lht(•d drc-.~ -.hin ~~Jint-...

L.;nlikc blue. 1he'' dl, han: a drawback \ IL·n ,\It h ,,,lin'" .skin nt?ed to -.t-ecr de1u· ,11- thC''-l~ ~hadt: ~

their dwmp:tgnc "F"'rklc Glll impnrr an cl.lll .md \ielliq t('l .lll} suit from the bnmn~ thn.'ugh thc \!rav.s [~) naY\~ t_;t)ld j.. fn.:oucml} u,cd :I' .111 .Kcem LOior in mnm p3ttl:-rned ncrk "l nul

""

'-

4

fa lllilll ha:o. lied..' of blond lt~1 j I~ l'Cht)i ng It Ulldt''l' l he d1i11 i:' illl oppnn liJlC \\:1\ ITI Jllu Lhe l~tCl.'. In t:h:L, rhe bold \'clkl\\' \ll' gl1ld 'l ri1~cd drc.'' .:-hin .md blu~ bhllcr "ilh glldl·d

l iL·='· M l j

mina1c

L

.

~

~

----~~-

TI~IE

PA -\TTERNED DRESS SHIRT

__...-omplexu.:m .aL o dictate~ rhe dtLlil·e l)t" pau~..·rn. t_1ncl' :-tg~tin. the :1mnum o( (l}lllJ"
ftntnd 111 rhe curnpl~xton .tboH" ,,iJI~..Iin.trc i.he dcg.rcc nl.(l'lllra.sr dc~ircd bckn' Tit~..· h:1irlinc. pm penctl. ...h.ldlH\, BengaL ~Uld , ..tricgarL·'--1 . . rripcd \t'llilt~!' cnju} h.mg- q~1n~..1111g ptlpulnrin on dw bu:!!llll''~ circuit In the

af-;l) h1uhl} ~

rcc,J~n;zL·d ~

dlL't-k

t"amil). the pin. mtnJ:nurt• graph. and ~mall bo'\ t:Jttcr....Jil ~lfL'

(igurc_, \\ ithin rhe cor1Jl11·nrc l·h.l.1rdn)
Tu r D R.FS.>

~

\\ hilc it\ h~1r·d

roO\\

n Lt1ll Jll.tll) simplt• bluL' and "hitL'

'ifl"lpt.:d

dn.;:-.s .shirt'i the ,,1111c

C.lll bt• ,JKI ior duN_. dr'--'"''}' mini ch~?ck . . rh.n t'IYc('L .1 prL'dl,min:mrh bl u'--~ b;KkgrnUtlLL fkc~1t1'C rh~ 'mall f:tnq

blue l'heck nppcars like .1 '()ltd from ~1 di!'ltallC'L'. ~ub... tnuring [he fi11e blul.~ ch,xk fc•r .1 blue soltd ~hirt lcud-. an .1ir 1.lf ~ophi~[i(.nic111 with liul~ n.;k t,l-ru,,lnc"s "'lnpc' or check' "Hh red .K(l'llt .. '\'liii u ruddier L"Pmplc:\il)n. whik·) L'lll.)\\' l.ll' ~<.)ld pattern~

f3\·c,r

the 1:1ir :-.kinnl.'d

ur blond mJn ~ll'tltum Lu bonk· ~rt·cn ~rripL'' \lr !'limplc grt'l'll graph chec-ks un whitl.' grl1ttnd-.

an.· ~11\\.l\-.: n lt .. h. c~pccialh under rhc das,Jc n~n' r

1

~.u· bl'J"a\, \\'l.)f",h:d su1t.

\\ i th il '' hlll' ground srripc or check. a co1Hra'r i ng \\ h1tL' ftll b r 1' .1! \\'3\'" .111 npt il,n. and It'

lu tllrical pro,enance ,Jmuld nor be i~tlt''lred. Thl' cnnrra,ttn~ '' hitc col!Jr drL'':- -,IHrt'- h:1rl.. ~

~

buck w the d:t) :s of the .. cparak~ collar. -ltkb). unl) the nJUildcd. club l} pe (prcfcrablr rinned) 1.ll' Lh~ \ L'r~ open .IImtl"t (ll[:J\\3\ mndcl nrl' "t' Jj,h cnnugh il, 4

hold their tm n \\hen

..

C(Hltrasrcd again:-.t ...

n different

color or pancJ·ncd ,lurt bod). ContrM) to popul~lT'

uplntlHl the cunrrn ting \\hirt.' coll.1r Joe' llOl rlxluirc

a mJtdmle \\hire I n:nch cuff ro maintain it' pt:•digrl'e .

•1lrhough a

d\lC'

mon:: m catch rhc

c?} e.

\\'!tile the

m.Jtdung I r'-'nch culT L• al"a)~ atcl'ptable..1 buuon cutT h.l" no place at the cud of a ,J('c' e an!tdt~d rn a

\l11rr" •th a contrasting\\ hire collar.

-~-

------

SHIRT

..

DRESSING TI-IE 1-IAND

hi n culT dc~ign usuall}

C\ oh ~'along"

nh collar ~11 lc-. and durmg tltt· nitlL'fc~.:•nth L'L'llllll"), curt!- ,111J colbr!\ .shar~d rnnn} famrcs I d.~ dlc blttlll. "G' '~1rc .;inglc Ctll lnt: till.:' ~birr cuff '"1~ n.::ctangubr and uA1, ~1.1 rlhed. The cuff could ai.M' DL' ~inglc or double hut It ''.IS tltt: Ia ncr ~~~~·m that came ru ig11il) fonm1lit} "eparmc cufi-., lske rhe dctarhablc '"·ollnt·. n ,u iJ be l'l'\l'l''l?d '' ht."n '..111l' edgt.· wa' ~oiled In thl· lllllL'h..'t:IHh (('llllll'). thl' cuff \\i})oi orlL'Il left unbununoo .lt the ~i~.lt.· :md could hang ~1bmtt h:1lr :tn incl1 bckm the co~u :'llt:c\e a thrm' b,Kk tn the dap \\hell dw -:hirt \\:1:- cothid\;-rL·d undcnn~nr ~md \Cn~d a~ .1 pmtc(t i' c b) l.:'r again'il rougher m:ncri:1l~. In prim:ipl~ mudcn1 nrf( t"anun 1\,lkm:-l irs forcbl':ll·,· ,tc.;thcric "irh th·~ ndded LJ\~ar thar a hmt l,f hin ~

I

linc11 bel('" Glll make 1hc ;Jrm appe~H· kmgcr. prO\ 1ded rh~ J·Kkc:'t\ ~lee\e

k·ngrh is Cll r rcct. J\ 111~111 with "'H'rl
1

d11 .. ~leioln .t;.

l)l.h;111d ..

\mcc rhl' h~md g~...·,nt rc~ i 11 :1Cl.·orth1Kc \\it h a mnn ·~ facial ~it'll" l~'~r

drama and ctnpha'I'

drt.·,~ing 1h1.:'

C\lJfC"

h:md an ran~ n . . o.,harc of JC..'-·

rh~...·uc focu' and cumnl\l'f<\) J ILrL· i~ l wl~" nh>st rentt\\ncJ

daJJdroftht.> carh (\\ cnticrb (('Jlllll): th~...· pnct l~abriel~ r)1\nnunzi•) (t..lp). ··. ..huonng hi'i cuC(, .. ln11nmacul:ne rcpt)S~ rh'- 'riiTculbrand cul"fdc.\:lfC h1s appl!.ndag~

w pnruc pcliccttun. T he dcb.HL' bcm ccn 'ri IT 'l'pnt·arc collar. . and ,ofr ;lrt~u:hcd LJI1C'

had l o~t much nf irs 'ream b,· rhl.:' time bunon-dtJ\\ n comJoj,!'.rur Fred .J

\-;t ..ltl'l' .1ppcarcd in tht

5crcctl ..lth.1

ncx1 pil.·ture. .t\merira·,

"orr st\ lc liked

O\\ n

ma,rer oi -.tage

hi' Hroob bunnn dm, n~ "ith ju

t

~1hc,ur

e\cn·rhing• Of\ 'uir~ drl'SS\ wL·dding\..- nc~ c1rdig.m .S\\L::m~rs lie even '-r ~

pinned

Li1L'

collar dL)Wil

jlL"t

tLl •.

ho" it" ho wa' bns!- Perhap:- ir take~ \..llll'

jaunn pcrt~)nncr tll ~1ppnxiarc ~llh)rhL·t .1 .. \qajl'c'!' Fulded ba~k ...tun cuti.

pia)!- t lw pcrfrct 1~'1il

tn ht!\

coll.u··, unprcdi(t:Jblc roll (a:urcr) L1kc:- 1he

~b,1L·cr's g~11t. ht~ clothes al" :1) s appcarL'd In PL'fpt'LLtal morinn

Thmk 1he .shirr cuff" a~ d'-''l~Ik~d :-imp!) ~1:- a milormg comn' ance

inr~...~ndcd 10 join rhc ,Jcc'c ro rhc" rist? k:m C\xtc.m Jidn'r (bnrr,mr) \~hi' CL'llllltl'\ 111<111

~lcph:111t" \..~rappdli did for the jazz Yiolin. Cl't.l~.nl deuttcd

rhc orn:1mcnr
L__--~----------~ -~---

THE SHIRT MONOGRAM

hen laum-lq O\' ncr ·hip

fjp.r scnr tHrt ""(till· hnn11..'. rhe 11hllll1£1"
":1!'

lu the heHi:n· l'( men"_.; t:1,hwn. llll'llvvr~11111rrcd br.llL''. iniualcd belt bth:kks. :1r1Li C' S

I

embroidered pucker b.llldkcrcllrL'f, ''ere pllpuhH gifr, (rom gn..llllll~ w u:-hcr" "hilc rL·gardcJ .1 . . roken~ of .ll"fc"·ri)n (rom rhc t""~ircr ~C\.. ltKhl\.

'lli11C

,OiliC'\\ h~lt

ll' J~ :1 \ ig11

prcrcllliolb. \\ h ilc l.H her..; .lpprcc i.HC

"-111cc d,c: drc'' ~hin lllCillOgr.llll' \\(.'rC

men Cllll'ldl·r rhc drspla)

l)ll thl•

i11itials

n r i n"ln id ll~l i i ~ and Cjll
'Ll.' CLm~tl·krl'd und~.:n-..c.1r until

Su.l!IL';.ttL'I"L'd rrom \ ic\\, L'lthl•r

1Jf one·~

bllttulll

TH f. D k E.S'

\\ell rnro the l~tc 1930' J1l(t~t of the 'lh 1rt\ l;.ll l 01"

uir \c't .\:- thl? n~.st began w d1'.1ppcar and men bq~an n..1 remmc thcrr )Jcl-.cr.;.

bCI1L'~Jth thl'

111

publiC. Lhis

In de qe cue bcg.m w acqwrc it' P\\' ll cadu:r. l )j..,crt:riL"m i.-. la~c ~

par~1mow1t

to gp(Jd ra!'itC. ~md

or con,!JicwJu.,h nlncL·d initiJI.-. an: indr.;crcet. r r J

Di pl.t} mg one\ m 'lll'gram ~m n collar or cutrclearl)

dccbre' the pcrpcn·amr·~ lack uf ~JYoir t:1ire. t\~ in nll'ht

martcr:. . t>f mak· dl-coration. Icy,," u..,ualhJ morL'. I or th<.· ~htn lll\)llO~FJI11 to create a rouch ...

of cla' . lcrrcrin~ 'n lc shl'uld bt· simple and ~mall. '-

m.!l l.trgor tlr:111

I

1 ·•

inch high. ~ [oq m~mogr~l111.'­

shmlld be itunte\.1 ~tbmrt +inches to the kJr t)f rhe hin pl.Kh:t'" ccnrut: I(tilL' ~hin h1.1s

.1

pockcr. ini ~

rial'i are u ua11} ccmcrcd on it or P{'!'iriLmL'd in rhe

middle of It upper \\ elt. ~fi..)p-dm\\ cr initialing is Jonc D) hand. \\ ith rht:

lt~nep; ~urnetimrs

:ned b} tm) periods. Bccau
llf

puncru ~

the marking\

dimmutJ\C scale. it' frequc.ntl} C(Hltr~l!"Lcd in ciLhl·r

a darker hJde or a different cuklr fn 1111 the .-.hin ing If the fabric t'cfJOc

011l'

of

j, lilllC\. the monoC't .."'mtn li)'>U:llhI J

j l" O)lllp011Cllt rdlor~ .

hme cl t:nt•rtlc? (Oior•. uch

._ l)J11(' 111eTI

L'old or purFJ!t: • which

.b 0

c.;ene" to ddincate their p~r,onal ~rylc.

1} ronc 1\J\\ ~r\ monogram

j,

.,o

!llllllltC

( ugge't111g 11 s handm~1Je origin) a.;.; tn beconte a point of cuno~it) It-; appcanmcc rellcCls t:hc [ng

.

h hand \rncriGm pre'-irlcction for the rnon~ con picuou!' pocket pl:lccmcm .•1bout 9 inches do'' n from the neck point. \ltern.niH~I): thl· rurupcnn

mans escutcheon c~pou:\"~ hi~ penchant fur disci ~------

-------------------

-

~--------~-----·-

I..} I

-

SHIRT

--

----

plincd undcr~tatCJih.~nr Uroppcd JU"l bdo'' rht: d1rt:n line t,f ,i,.ion the munogrmn' ln\h'Lllu mdr w,unll~ nppt\1 r rough I} 14 inche-. from hs~ n~ck point or -l lll ) mchc~ .tbm c t ht n·ou l r' "·"~'ditll" (If the· two .tddrcsst'" rhi IClcalt.' '" def1nitch tht.' more ~ubtic 1f not\ luc •

\\ hen the Com int.'nt.:JI '' ~1r:-. lu:- mgle brea"teJ j.J.ckcr unbuttonc:d. a \\ ai'l ll·h:l dlll1 C(llllllJl:"tlCl''

bc·nn•en rlw coar\ open fronts and lht.' nt.'d..Lit:\ end~ Tht: nl'cktlt: · unf&?tlL"rl·d blad~,:

in rh} t h m "it h the n1.1n \. g.ti l. t:lll .tcro:-:' till ,birr' from permitting 11Pdung mor:L' lhJn 4bUl1Jl\Oil

oi monogr.mt

tn

peak through. \~ tthmu supc:rfluou!\ distrJCllon .... rhe..c ~mallurdw:-.lr.ut lJh t.JI~t.:

on .t s'• rllbnli'lll ~tiJ their tm 11•

Tlw rngli~h ~tn:-to\.4 rnq lm~ kmg

DR~S'{,'\t.i

nH ,\L., :-.:


rr. .·d

ih

hercLliraq ~train ttl. cC('l.'ll

\~tai r~ hoLm~)bb~d

\\ it.h

ent)ugh ~

of these '.1ll't -trained bd..; m L)bsen e such form 1-ir,th:md. ( -.....:. ')uarrcring . ... ~me·., initials on

,Jtirr\

the

t1UtL'r :-l~e\e j, ~ithcr ~1

pL'l-uli.tr ro slh)\\ biz Lion

cu,tom

l') pt.'~ or nnorher nfTecm

of rhe pn\ ik:g\.:J \\ irh mo much ume on

d1c1r band'. \\ hcrhcr such ~wank .. ma("b mon.~ t

l,f the titled rhan rhc Lht::uric.al. nnc-

hmg'-' i:-; lor sur~: h:1llmarking l'nc·s ,hirt .·deL'\ c

011

it" upp~.·r lore:1nn ccl't:.unh rcinfon:c-. it"

bcsp\'kt· ~,tll\Cnancc. a propllsiti~_)n nut likd) O\'Crlt.lclkt·d

b,·' tho,t: :'O inclined.

~-- -- ---

- -

Iu

..(n1m t

tmd I t

em r

impbc.1ble re... i:-tance to dcmh b) 1-:.... hinn deaec maJ\? nl:cb,~arfact·!'i Jh m '"' Mnou d1.1llL·ngl: tn dmc. \\ hile the w~.1rkplacc has tradn•onall~ b~..:cn the m~cktit:·~ for:t:mm•t ba!'.tJun n-. r.tp 1d

~a~u.lhzatil'll i~ handing d1is l(.>rnk'r ndjunCl uf rn.t1t• dcgancc ib pink lip in\ nmg ~m. numbl·r of les' throat ·COil.'ll"aini ng altt•rn:Hi\t~ lO appl} t:u· the job !t is incrca'111gh ~mnmun l 1 \tlt mcntn po,nion~ of:tullh'nq \\ithmu a ned tie lu "umeofficcem&ronmenh thl! ban." nt.cted cxe~.·utl\ c l1:1-. ben, me the~) mho! l11 .111

l,f., llC\\ maJtagemL'111

ironi(' l\\ isr~ 1he nc.•ckul'·~ longtmw

ib uhimatc- undoing \\'hethcr rhi~ DRE5.SI1\ G Tllf. hi~~

hHC'-t

ptlllCLWr l:l'irpor:nt.> confonwq

lllL''n·s

ma} no\\ bl:

Jip in t:henccbic\ f(u·wne~ \\ill pcnnancmh .ther n'

de~llll\ I.' h.~rcl to ~:t). \V1dtuttt the tailurL'd lll11fonn nt•rktit'·~ rL"'k illl'Untempumrr

-.t~ le

to

111onopolt:r..e 1he cnrpor.n~ bnd c:.1pe . tlH!

l~1slli~•n v.ill certainf) change h'nppc.Jr.ann·\\Jllmorc

dl:tlll'\\.'r'-lguif) rhc w~aJ\.·r·... dl·,ir\? 10 e1nbr.tcc .1 drt?-.-.lt.?r. mm~c .mrbonratl\c.: imJg-t 1\.:rltJP"Ill

time. man

regard the 11cckLie as pn.,of uf hi' mdh idu::Ilil). ~~..nm.•thing. that

111:1) C('111C tu

.1 p:1 rr fro 111 t h('

l.'fl m

'itt'-

hrm

d.

CRA\IATOLOGY

-...,_, inct:'

Jdc;1lly. rl1l'

:1

ncckric· :-h. .)lJid be •1grcc.:abl~ n' the t•lllch , ..:ilk i~ und~.:·niabl~

l~lCI'ilc qu:·tlities o( :1 (jlll'

silk rie shtlllk~ prlkillce a SCU'i:Uion

lhl'

fabnc of dmict:

nlll unllltt dun u( ,jIll

The term that th\? indw. tn u.;c~ ro dc~ign~1rc a h1bric\ \\cigh1. lc.~xmrc and lt.·cl '' i:&llled u. . ··baud·· l:l'lllllll'scur~ apprcci:u~.."' a b~..~.unifullwnd The 11ccknc'~ mori( llr pan ern. expr~..·,~e" rlw p~..,erq . rhl:· !\~n~e o(" him~\. tlw P"' dml 0"' of rite indiYidual \\L'ar~.·r Dcs1gn mor.il... (,lll~d cr:l\arol<>i-1: began tt.l floun.;h in tlw fl)3<.) pl\n.1 great j~,..,,gn t!w1ili~s dh id~.· rhc pauerned nt.>ckrie. kingdwu· ~arn d}e \\0\l..'O' and pnm' 1n d1~:' c;;.1 s~.· L,f the II r"t. the jacquard loom "~...·:1\l'~ di fTc rent color rh read, direnh into t hl' f'Jbnc. ~

'' hile in tit~.

L

'-L'Cond. col~.1rcd

p:.nrcrns :1rc prime~.! dire(tl} onro ra'' <'I' d) ed ,il]~

\\l O\l EN N ECl(\\lEt\R

u!'e 1r alh.m s t~'r highl) LleruiiL'd motif~" hilc l'I'P\ tding an lllC\Hnp.u·able nchnv.. , '-1f

hand. thl' ,, 0 , L'll ~ilk

temper~ :.1 eulur\

til1

b I'L'\!,~1rdcd :1~ the nc pJu~ ultra of male plumage. The" ~.a' mg pnK"<-....,,

inn3tt" brill~atKl~

b~

illl"llrporatmg ir into ~l cmnplt!" ...uri:ltL' HHt.'rtl~.,ng. m.tl

• rc•'fL''C'nt a ...null ing 1h: """'Hm t·l 'll r 1n •11n nJ t I w cj n.:·~-.tc"t o ,- :1 II llCL·k·til• ' ' Jk ' · \Jtll')tt'll .. e ""'en' l r

pt=rct:nt!lge of rhe tot-al nL"ckwear produ(cd t':lt:"h ~ c:1 r. rhe} h
hand rmforcd dC\rha and bcm.-]1-crafrcd foon\ car. llcre·. a cia ,j, examplt:> of hon Engl:md came ro -.er rhe ~randard in imernarional men '£1 k fnr tht:> better p~1n ofrhc rwcnticth c<.'lltUr). ThL' i\lacck·,:fidd ntxkrie. a ~ilk group of parrcm' m.1dc from 'mall '' c~' e~ of dimnon~h . .;quare... and cirdc.:-. bL~amc e.:'pcciall) fashion able among ~

\\Cil

drl.~,,cJ Briri"'h men in rhc carhI lli.!O~ The~e 'mall ~,~comL'tric!' \\Crc fir.,.t ~

m.1dc in contra~ I ~ • t:lL'~ of gra\: black and white. £,1\'ing a marot.h.:'fr)r efFect acn."""'' rhc :-urtncc tlfthe tiC The} \\ere the 'Pt·cialf) uf dw texrile wemt~r~ frnm ~ lacde.,fidd.a :-;mall town in l.an Gl hire. nonln\Qt En~land. ...., &,.;

•

....

""'

...,

\mung the· '' orhfs _,anorjaJ literati. rhe ;\.lacdt. ,fidd lk'ckrle conri nuc.l' w en jo) i r~

long,[.mdin{! repur:ttion a:' the quinrcsscncc of upper d.N, Engli~h ar'tL Par'-·ntht.•ricall~. it i:- 1he onh gc11re of rradmonal neck\\ ear ~

to

rcmin ir, ori\.•inal mctanhorical iruaaen. Referred to a~ a i ~

i:t~

---~

N £CJ.:.n

-

--

\\\...Jdm~ uc-"

111

n~rram eire!~-. tht' . . jJ\t'l"\ nr..:kti~ b~:.--g•m

ib

'cncr.1bk ctrL't'l. a~ d1c llbligawr)

l I

lc.mg ttl' t"l,r l~mnal dJ} attirt•. meaning \\C~.idill~' ~md mlwr da) Liml' ~clcbratitm,, \' \llltrt ltmn~c

d

lth\;-, b<:1!~Ul

w obnt it"

(Onmam. thl' dn.•.:-s\ r

•

~

~l.tcdc~(icld lhYktil.' l~,und 11, t•lnc sen icc~

bnJ.tdtnto include the ~mbclli-.lunem ._)fl>rhcr lc,, l~'rnlal~.·ns~.·mblcs

r rom ro) aln w rodt.·o. here·-=- a pictori.1l !Jistoin· (tlflJltlSilt', bdt tl'. uud 011 rl~t')olloll'illg P''S.c) t..l ( 1

thl \I.Kdc,fldd'.

ro ...anorial 'tardom. bl·ginning "ith rhc lbn'll "\.in,la!'l de l ~l11ubcrg.

fi"•C

IO(ll·l.tltt~. \nrl1llll\ nrt•xcl Blddll\ and I k'll) \\l1lld' 1\.nbcn \hmLgomcry ~111d l ~an { .lll)Pl.'l'.

\\ lulc dtt'rl'

.1rc :t lll} riad of", 'h'll

lwnor~.:d pl.l~c!' of corrcctJic. . s aalll J(leni\Jn ft'rlLi\\llCd ...

the "nitill-.fidd ..

til'. )'Ut

p.H t~.·rn:-.

neck ttl i11

l)nh a hath.~ (ul h.n c \H~n t 1111l'

the gcntl~.'mJn·s \\,lrdrt..,b~.

anmhl'r ((.lJlll'lhllrlun

l)I1L' tJr

the mo.st

or rngland.;; kgcnd;1!'\' Bond '-' trccl c

\..

,J

"n lc tn pcrm.111L'Ilt tJ~rk\\(•:tr Ct...;hj,111 R1'111g tn prl111litll.'ll(Y bc,h.:ic tr" sth er \Ltcdc~ric l d con fr~..·rc m rhc t9~0". thi~

\\O\en

ne~kri~..·

\\;1:-.

al,o n~1mcJ I~H· the to\\ n th.u prl>duccd 1~. \pnab·

iadd on Lhc outskans of LundPn. llw ""pHal,fldd d~.:·•ign L•rigin;III) dt-.wtgui:.hcd

ll"L I(

(rom the- \ LKclcs(rcld by irs

.;li~l.d} Cm~..·i r ::md Llrgt.•r rnuti[,. which \\l'rc .trrattgL·d in ~tlkncr "t.'tungs c_. .,

'L.-

L

tour ~Oillr ('Ptllbm,Hillll!\_ This more \('f'\:Hil~..· l} pc

Hntam' htgh ciJ. \\ ..l\C'll

\\ll\CJ1

l)f silk

t'r t\Vl'

tlC\tgn (l.111Sllllltl''\

.

thrL'l'~. or

the backb<.'lll'

l}r

ncck\\car 0:o l~)ngcr made cxclu~iH·I) in rht' 'mall l.nndon rnwn.

ncd.tJc5 of tit.: pii~I~Jicld

·---

L]

p~.· ,, rt'

--

tld\\

m:11lltt:Kwrcd all 1n·cr the wn1ld

N

.I:'C:k WF.t\R

THIS PAGE

Gr1ry Coopu drt•ssing up d 5port jtrckrt \l'tl /J t1 J\ I acdt'~/irfJ ITt'Ckt it•. OPPOSITE ·

Ca'1' <;,·clmt-rosst•d al,lltltm Jo\1'11 slurt wit II ti dttllblt• l,n·,t~tcd .suit i111~I a Spital~(;c/J nL'rkt it·.

llcr..: I >eau \chc son rL·h\: un the firm lund "' lu" i.ltl r1\. h d tab l·ollar 111 dm\ npl.l\ hi, -.agging ll~d..ltth..· \d11Jt. the r1J ., 111c, 0 f111., '-pit:~J,fldd nccktw pl.t) ~up hi d1plom:urc urb:uun

l~H E REG IMENTAL CANARD Bnthh Ln dl'rJ\,llt llll'Jll.tl

stripL's

I '},2( ·~

Hd(xe rill' d.n ..

C(

h.I\c

been contn1u lll'-1) u. .ed

ur

lllll\ (·r-,~d

111 tiC

Jt.•,ign

11

rt ,1 ......

'-IIKt:

rhe

I h.lkl all Hmi~.h fL'g.unem lnJ n

,Jc)r ,._-h,•mt.• uf t heu· ')\\ n. 'L'CJI Jt ll "i nm~t

l\

pt ·al1n dlt: mt "'" l·trktt , (

rhi'· c11Til·l!r:-. I ngl ish rt.'gi Ill Pill~" ore ('J"~\ .H~ Lll'conned ''It h "itTI p

:'1

nH hur

r~..:·gii iiL'IH:ll ct•lm·'· Tl11~ g.JH' ri'L' h \\h,ll 1~ kncJ\\11 .Js the rcgmlcntal •

l iL'.

\d lith

rl'.1 I UJ'e:.

(t

,Jurt.•d ~tripL''i 011 thl' di.lgon.tl ,) ~~ .ltUfi.!

Ul L p.u

ble from gn ,, . . h uni r\11'111 de ...ign. Xftl!l" r~,.~tunllllg n l CJ\Ihnn ld~ l~nll h

Dtcm Achrsonu·c:,lriu..~ a

men "ore tlw tiC'-. of l bei r iormer r~giml."nt .•md (rt."quemh no orhct

Spiral~flt·ld IJ'J'e '"·ckt;t'.

( "\nc pnim nf long "ilJnJmg (()Jlh:.'lltl('IJl ben\ n'll bbdc, fr,,m

the uther . . ide of tiJt• herring pond \\a" lhe culnlllst-. .tlltl!cd -.,trhH1 tl \ inlnt inn o( ha\ ing 1hLir :-;rripc.... rllll COU ilh'l' ll) dm~l' of the king· men roil(')\\ mg b~lth 1w•h.lr1Lc I PfL'(C'dCflt

.111d tic_q hL•fiC logit, rngJj~~~ til• \ll'ipl':-. f~11l from ltf1,houldc-rdt.l\\1l i0\\3rd the nglrt \lJC

·1hi' dir\.Yti. . liiCPirKidcd" it h dll." male jad-\ct\ tr.1~..ii ri' nallct"r ou·r right t;,~reniug (thu .. pr'-'\L m in~ the coat'" fronr fnnn imu·J~ring.... \\itll :1 ~oldicr'.., utl!--beathin~(·fhio; '"l1rJ from hn.ldt rdl) '-' ... ()nc lllllldr...·d

\ t'jfS i

t1\.Jl),

ft

when l),·onk ...

the ~tAll!.:.'~. in dd~ n:·nc~~ l l l the nri~in:1l-..

l
Hrnlhl'r~ tlJl')

rlr ... t

intmducn:l

rhL·

LngH . .h '-

rc-~nncm.tl 0

lk' H'l

hnd theirs (lll i11thc opp\>,ire dll't.'Cllt'n (lu~h ught

App;ltvntl)~ Fngli•dlllll'll

bclnnuin~ l L' n·ruin Brit ish rq~ib "\.lll('Jlll\

g~..)t

\ C'T}

their prcciou:-lll::ch

or I\ mcric:ll1 tllUri~rs. II ere j,

I . R ·Ti·iplcr\ pb) on '' l1rd~ m l? r the ''t\meri...-:lll

\\ '~t} ··\,(it~ ~tripe...

. \t (lllds \\llh

the prt'\:Jil

tastt;' l't 'r "hi IllS) . dn.''IL qri pt;•d Jll'd. \\CUI' h.lLl bent l)ll1 n( r-:1\-lH. 1: ll"

1ng.

• t'Hlll''

ni

rime I lu"~' cr. :1~ a rc~uli

ltal)\ tit: designt·rs lotl"t~lling ~

up Brit:111ni~1\

Famous Stripes ... in the. ~1mtricatJ !Pa;'

~

C\1 1l\L""I11Hlll:ll

TJr~ umtJUi1lly smarl duipu am! a(htDI colM comMrr41t'"'! if 1hr Engltth srJuxsl1ir.s1 a:lid ''O.m Bovs," rrrrwnlun t~par'al.'y jorTIUPLF.ll.. Ami in All~ilk "I'P· f'n-~ Jr:zm!iom~TGT.re of fJIIUrns fur bme, grry tl1" lrrOr:m .tuitt. T/:11 Jl
~inpt•

.trmngcmcllh .llld cokw tllmhiu.l 11011"

•qripc.J

:11 l.,;lJlCC

Jll'd.\\c;tr j,

in a rcn

Wml f'OLD£0 .Sll.X TlUOUQHOUT, J...-~5 £.1-Im

I)....::-.igner r tlcl~111 l) B:uher.1 .....

W~ onfCJ'lfli by maiJ•raa: C'C!kn of IIWU. EuJr •kctlOU &U...a.blc

JiRTRrPI]R & ]]

(ptigt" 1-JS) could h:l\ c dw,cn .lll} t\ pt•

(lr nccktll'

fc.11' thi-. nllrl1t,

bw l..

---- ---- ---

-

h

--

1

h.: tlptL'•d ti)r a 'tnpc l)n~ \umld be h:.1r~.t- pr~.·:-)cd .111} thmg

tl'

fiud

r~~uncml·d d~ri' a[i\ c or prcdinabk· J.bnttt

J~-.tgn \\lud1 j.,. prob.tbl) \\h) bt: ch~..bl! j;

ll'

"·'It' the pn1p..:r

dm.:crmn uflu . . uipc .... lugb ... lcti ro lm' right. ._ \norhcr rca.,on t'Or thl' 'tripe\ h.Ibitu.tl prr.:>cncr under rht: bcncr .1rrmcd ch.in •

j..; il~

diagom1l d\ n.lllliC" The
.. .triphl necktie\;

sman d~~l.'r undcr..tanJ, d~1tam lim• that angk•!\ ~Kro"' th~ '

b 'd' al o \\I.Jrk.'

to

.:-lim it. In

th~·

l~blrquc parrcm m.tgic4tllr chisel~·'" ~1) brL'.l~.irh ~111d

1t~

(:l!'-1.',

snftllL'"'

r·n. m tht• [JCe•• m .1...ham.1gl' much priz~.·d br it:\ d~.·, ntccs

I her~.:.;!' ~murher cumpdling illu"lr:Hit'n ,~r "In

men

l)r lofikr

. .ocial plarr-.ut...; rend w lean wward the

'trtpc ir!' mEuuarmg '"agger Bd
:tct,)l' I~eginakl

hi~ . . tripe tu pwKtll!H~.: hi..; C;\pan:-c ,)1-

biUt: sen~~ \\hale cJch of ir..) fortY fi, e degrees rcinl~m:cs 0 l

rhc fhagon~tl

!I.} mmctq

~

(,f hL' double -brca,tcd ~ui r.

Hl)l

)k

t:ndmg"'- \\ iK· Bcnn.1 on the left. Rl)Jlald ~~o lem:tn '-'lll'agc.s 0

STRIPED NECKTIES CHISEL

L

AWAY BREADTH AND SOFTNESS

thl' br,.lad repeat of hi' n.ccktic· . . rripc ro harmonize with ht" -.;port Jacket'.... O\Cr~izLxl pbid.

FROM THE FACE.

J

1..------

-

----

I

1

- -rl t E

p LA 1 D ~r1 E \\ 'h~th~r pt·int~d

tif

wo\~11 \ilk ur

pl.1id nt"·ckrie ha. . :1l \\ ar~ attmned r he traditional • i"t b, 'irtue o(it!' rkh "cutu,Ja heritage ~I ill' fir~• plaid tie~ \\\.'1"(' mndl· L)r \\ r•ol. b~L'HU'L' t)f tbl· lllOll r\ :l"'I{)Cl:ldon "11 h l.lrt.lll kilt.-. 1lo\\ CH·r. l he mu hemic J I ighland plaid~ "t:rc \\lllJI. t hL'

g~ntrillcd inro dre~,j~r ~ilk \'t'I'Sit)ll\

r\)J' 10\\11 \\CHI'

dbt1ngui~llt'~ the pbid frum11thcr &tt.!doie mottl-.,

1s

\~ ·hnt

i1 mul

lil.l)L't'cd bl'~l1k~ dt..·':'lign. "hich crcml·.'\ 1hc illu ion of DRhSI~G 1Hf 1\I!\N

~iillll'n~iniL \\'lwn m:11cd \\ irh :1 :-rripc• nr· ~1 ditTm\'nt :'!Calc

dwd... the pbid\ \.kpdl

or

ril·ld

jll'l'h.ltlccs :1 ri~."h alld

ntt.\JlCl'd 11~11 tin\?ss. I lc'TL:. a 111;111 "h~_..l kll\.1\\' ho\\

n

II• Jlli:lkc

:-oli~.l .suil .ln~l ~.lrL·~s shin JflPL'ar k·~s plain. jlqwcr':-

lugh

com r:t~tcol(')l"t'd lll'cktic abP :-;a\ rs his\)\\ n st r0ng ((llllplex-

inn (dnrk hair nnd lighL -:kin) frl'lll nppc:tring le s ~o. NECK\YEAR Thi~ ne~t :-tatcmcm might

SOLID "l'l'lll

:-.omc" har t.lf an L1Xrnwmn. hllt t ht..: 111orc sc)phisticm~d

a man\ t~l"LC.S in Llnrhe< the mnn.' "ol1d 11cckrie.' he's likcl} d\\ 11

like the lltxcdo' chic which depends llll only two cui~

ors. the ~~)lid necktie 1~1\C'I"S (~ec

Lu

rlw

h.:.'cotnL'!-

'Inu:1lly tndispl'nsabk· i( llllC

quiL~t ::tsJ-ctth·ctlL'S:s ~>I

Dnugi:Js

T:1irh~1nk.s

the

~impk t'\l) · tun~

kir

and ( rl~lnni 1\gndli. ch~lptL'r 1. .. Per-

m:mL'lll F:1shiun."') l;enrgc I ra.siL'r. esquire':, l;t,hion pundit cx:traor~linairc. had~ pcr~tmalln,cal"f:lil'\\ith thL'~olid

...~rcnadlnc necktie. ::ts di,J l~1rmcr Banw\ ' rrc\.{ PrL·~~man. ~~")ll(OLJid

unt

il1lllll'

mah· boPk l\11

'\.t'\\

bi.Kk

York\'" ner.

Prt!~'man

slwwing

of hi~ cla . . sic ._grJv llanncl c'r r.111 ~~1bardirw en em J

\.

blcs aco1111p~mi~d by his L~Ycr pr~,.·,cm bl~h.·k grcn:tdme lour i11 -hand pinned just ~o askC\\ intn lw• blue drL''·' . . hirt . The

perenJJiall) suign.: cntcrwint;r 1\ubhr Sht)t'l uw11~ !l collcc~ tin11

of ~di~.:.l n~l\\ and

Stllrd

black 1~111(\ ''men .silk.: th~1r

' ' tllldl'!Ubtt'dh niiUHJmhcr thnt-t.' n( P0rtt.:r •

lrcr.sln' ttl. and

Ulingrun n'rnbincd. The ~crond ratinnalc l~>r a \\':lrdrwhc: rcpl('fl' "it h inTl:'fC!>tjng ...olrd nc..>d.me.tr 1.!' thL p&~l tl'l'll

prt..:rog:Jt ih' .\~ thl'" ·ai'ici0nadt' .l~(Cilds the p.HLern lln -paut·rn

:-rairGl'l'.

rhc :-olr~~ nt.>cktll:

oftt..:n becomes IJi, bcq rriend St,mctJtll' ~'n(r farctinu~h Jc,cribed dw 1\riu,h 3ppr:o.Kh w '

d~,..·("l)f ,1, that \\hicb L~mplcl}t>d the brgcq IIUJllbCr of (('lllll'~ \\ithotll dJ..,hlllg ) llf thn t' men inclined tL' push rite p:utrrn cmell'pc. the 't)lrd tic ba~ ,3\l·d m:~m a llL~cl. from ll\l;J h

lllfllf'

ambi 1iou" del·{ >r~ll il m.

-~-

, \\ 0 Q L t

1EC

K \V EA R The- ll.tli.IIJ:- h:n l.' i mere' d 11~ "t' lc

....---------------1

k.1nn.t l mpll\H~rcd Ln their de...;ign 'tnuo,ir~. "irh ClllC lmnd t ht.:\ m.111~1gcd tn mundarc rlw rie \\(\tring world in a ~ca ot" ~

~

mtrll..,lH' prim... \\ InI~

\\ l[h t hl.· •Jrlwr dw~ m:ln.l~~.·d

l\'

prol.lth.·c

CJhJUgh h1gh d.l'- tWCktics to kc0p frlllll drO\\ 11i11~ ill dH.•ir

(l\\

11

C\.lOlllll.'J'(I.tlcftlm nun lk,"~J. ., \.':o-~.·uing rhc ..:trip~.:· (r'-'111 ~..·l·rt.1in l'~nn~~tftlJl rhl'~ ~..m aha be lTl:''-htL·d '' ith

rent JpprlYI.ltlon of lu~uq

\h.:

till' ~l) li'h m.tk\ cur-

llncckwl.·ar

I \lrtun.nch t~1r rbc. oubidc ''odd. ~

L':Kh

ol-lt:th \

Lltic"

e..nnt.tHl" pod...et, of so(i.llly pr{'minl.'nt. q} lt· .....1\'\) bu'ii lll'':-.llll'Jt

,, ho h<~pp~'' w be p.t.. ._,ion.trc .1bou1 app.tl\'1 It\

nul I~H·

.md undt·rqmcd r:a..:tc. \\t.!rc ir

L,r L:xccptinnal qualthis

.

(.·gment in tht" h.11i.m men·" ma rkl.'t. ma m ..

\Hntld not bl· pri' ~ to ,ud1

rar~fieJ

~.liscrimin~tting

1hHl

ra,rt• and \\ carablc:-..

otto be confu,ed "irh rhe im.~'pctt-.:1\ I? llL'(kllL' of I ngh"h nntorict"'-. tlw; i:~ "J

I tmd "~" n in

lllt'l

I tal i:111 men

,1

tmalh I

'' Olll

countr)

~.li(ferent animal.

p -r~cnt wor:-tcd (,bhmcn.· or blends of (,,,h

ntt:l'l.' aud ,,lk. clw. sm:tll knortin~ ""inuou:- "rrif-, uf L.Ktik ddight ~

~

rtlJt:(r~ JtllHhcr ht}Cf of re.xtur~d ridlltL''' intri th(' fl~ti1J11:1 :-~uit cJr luxLtr~ 'port j~KkeLl'llSl'Jllble.

I k·rl· \H·It:nc the embodiment of ltaliJn brio. l~inttlli i\gndl1 '' ho like'i hi~ hcrnngbotle wPol ~

tie -.n much th.ll IH.: \\e.u·..: it

O\L'r lti~

c.1-..hmL'rc ~"cater.

Lllllks

~

perfectly kosher rn me.

I ong .111 .td\·c,carc on thi:- !'ide <.,( thL' t\tl:mt ic lclr tlu' (t)Gl -" eathcr ned, rq~:1l i~1. t hl' L

1.1

r

flO\\

undcr~tanJ,

the wool tic\ tc..\Lural GKhct :1:- well as

it$

change of...;ilkcn pace

-- -

-

l) I~ I NTE D N E~C K\\'EJ\R

l'

rm.t printed Clhrk' anuall)

"ilk muflkrs '-llllJ•~rim~ in rhe

latl'

fir,! gf'oJllCtric ~.:k•qgn::. pnntt>d

'ihl)\\Cd

up :ll't~und man\ throat

nitlL'tt'~.:'IHh cenruq II

•)Jl :1

pure> sill,.

£:\\

\Ul-..n't

jJI bl.!gnu

to

t1l

tht." form off 1m1Jl

th . . e~rl~ llJlrJ.., that thl'

un11t

111:1ke the rllUlld'\ of the '--ultur<;\

mor~ fn~hton.tbiL' n0lk~. l"rnm tberL'. tlw tr.111:,iti11n to ned.ttc~"\\,ts almo.t automatK If\ mk DRl:SS l'i\',; HH

M -1

~

''hat limited Inn·· (c.•nn;ll iH· ~ ~.~al'l'\, the st:unped l1f;lpplt~d method uf making p.m(:·rnu.i dmh "ns ··unsid~.:"'rt·cl 111 fcrinr rP pL"nn~men tl) "em. ing rilL~ tk·~jgn dirc~d~ i 11 U.l t h~· cl~th " ~lli{tct:

Bc-c.lbl'-c 1r ts le~' '-'xpett~he

t't' prt)llu~c th~m

thl" wt.:,\·~n nnd em accPmmpJan.: decorn

ti\l~ rno11f, c•f C\cry \.-uJlC"ei,abJ~ ,.ui. .·t). pnm ~1rd~.l!t'S ar\! rhe brge.;r-~L·lltng cattg~..'l! ll( m!c.k \h'ar P.} tht ltJ(,rJ:-..

rlw

f'-'P('fl

nf printl'd "iilb 11' tile \a ·t .\menG1n markt.:t uni~.J:-htd a

\ eri tnbll.." e~plo..;inn in thL~ qu:mti n at~d dn cr'tt} n( f.'lbric design~. '' hJCh u1 turn prumpr.. d fi1r

thl"r 111 11li\Olt j, lll~ in rhc produft iou ptucr:-s. In rhc cighrit?~. comput~r~driH~n tcduh;Jiog) prcs\!m~d

rlh.•

prim de'-Jgrwr

rual bl.mk l"am .1 ... on'\ hich he n•tdd 1\.'corcl and iu,tanr.:meousl} reproduL"c

\\Hh

a

\11

m1~ or nil r:r~.JU\l

impul'c". \Vh~tht?r i-n the name of \\l!nrablc an ~nteJTainmcm. ur \11npJc ~hod, thr lll't rt: Ulh \\:l'

Lh:lt ;li-ter p,,,o de;.;adt~!" of m·ckues as comer

rht· pnnu;d Jh.'tktit und\!rmmcd

_,,lJ iun shHTl't''.

it!'df :h ~m..tdjmKt of mule dcg:l.Jh·~ \\ hde dc:bJ, i 11g ... t !Jt.> ll~~bH~
C'Jlttn.;

cult lll'l.: f m·

tl!l' mO!TlC'Ilt. :--hould ,1 man \\.am n"')

:tcqu•r~ .1

neL·bic "ith ~ r·c l'-onablc prob.1bilit~ of ue then'

I( Hl''C'' in. rhe" m t'O de1-ign tie \H,uJJ gcul't aJh bl.' t::' I

'"

'-

[he ~:1fer bt•t.

That ~aid . .tlwrt• .1r,• ~nil :1 'h~hh of (igu nn ih' mnti fc; and gt"'llfe~ ut print ttt.: rh.u t r4m :-~..·ctll..~

tlw 'Ltgarie~ of fa.lmm Ltkc 1h • ''til cut .... gra) tlmnl·l ~uiL tbc,\..~ 1w..:ku~. rct~in thc.:·tr-.n lr h~ m·~- b, \ inue o( rbeir 1nl\11lrt.•..,l:.ctble g~.u d l.t,h! •

C H.-\ R VET t bt.• 1q

].1.'b Lmd

pRINT S \\ tth rht" tq

;tfHliL:ill

m

~l. b ~pendmg more Jnd moll rime

\ m ul'.H ion. rc~orr dn.: sing l}(.,Y.unc .1 prml.1pal Sl.'lli'Cl'

l'~f f:t~hwiJl in:'pimnnn. l11.:r \\ eah h' I ur\.1

p,·:m cmbra~ed .1 '1Jmmct) lol1long ric t"(IJl(t::lh"C! h\

rht' Em1ou-. P..u·i.::i.m ,Iurr and cr.1' .u makt:r Chan N l"hi' li\'IH .1nd bn"c:A. ncc.knt· fc.uurcd Jlll'rtl:. th.u ~

fX'I"f~· ....tl' c.1pmrcd lhL' holid.t\ mood ,,f n ~

-- --------

t!ll\lrtlll'

\kan\\hile in the !arc l\\\_~ntiL''· tht: "hir'-· ~UIIll11Cr 'llil began "" J'Jim Ht•a'-·h and around

'c\Cr.ll

111 g
\m~ri(J.Il unin.!r'itiL'~. -, h~ ncull':tl roncd

"till

d~..·matHieLI

"Oilk'

,trongcunrrast .md hke their lurup~au~..·.,mnt"·rr:llh ,m:ut \mcrkan~ tl)t'k w dw t:hancr tic

l1h· Jm:b ro \\,ttt:r. \ltln'llgh '-'

till' 1:1,hion~tbk·

non [CI rht ru .:. Jed the PJ\l'lr

111an ...geucr.tllr' <1\'('l"lcd bold Jh.'Ck\\L"ar. thi~"- L''L~r)

or th '"''- \\ dl drc"'L'd 'tKicn lllL'I1 \\ hl'"l t'rd in:tril) held tkl:->L'I) hl

.. mall.md con,cn d[l\ ~ ~11~cb in t hell· Jh:Ck\\ ('~1 r. I r:- ..:.-h K

\\ ~1~ 111

their ll n ru'>S\ m lllChal.m [ bt:ann~ ...

fo rh.~ Jdt..!ht of rhctr m.1m .tdmtrt r~. the "-:11:11'\l..'r:-; L'n~' ll o.;ettin~~ t:Kdn.ucd blcnd111~'- "it.h ;111 ' r '-

kmd.., off'Jnt"\ 'uiL'. frl m ht1Uilli'r

u.. 1rlh

tP 'trine:-.. tll f1bJl!, nfi!lml)~t ~1m* r

trJ.lll.luner pnnt' bt•c:tmcthe tlr:-ot and rcgrt'tmbl~· almnst rhe

!.1 .... 1

'1/L'

\ll' dt•,tgn '-

The l)rig._

buld- ftgurcd ntxktit· ll.l')l11

N

I ( K WT.-\

[,till:~ upper da:'l' r.t~h:: \\ ith rhc t':\Ct'plilHt ftJ)\.''

elected llcnne' ~c..:~rf ri~,·,.

l,f [mi lio Pqcci'o.; l.1rge alJ tWer p1·i111 tic' in rhc :111d thl' ,>dd R~tlph Lauren :md l.;arn..:.-k \ndcrs\lll ncckric

prmt (n\o oi" \mct'tl:i:-. bc~r punC}Llr~ l,( the p.lst). tilL' prc...'Pt'IJder.mcc nl" l~1rgc· figured prim ncdare' cmrld prubabl} be termed lll\t:o;~ r~Hht.:r rh~n nJcc

RI1dh) pcrsoualir)' tllld wmt·~iillu Fn·d 1\llm hosr i~rg l17cjimwus Amos ii ·A ml}' ttmm. Up to thdr 11t'Ck in chan't'1S, tlzt:S(' bry~ kllc.'ll' lww tc>l'JIIt'rlaiu millions •rith wit mrd imdli{!nlcr .. • words that cmtlcl ctptly dt'.suibr thdr llt'Ckll'ctlr

-TilE PAJ..,l£1

lr7lt1on .md It' .L''oci:ujon '' trh rugli~h t.l:-tc, p;u:-k·) 111

the ,,orld of malt~ lll'chH•·Jr.

.'ll;t',~-'·

l'lliO}' .1 'F'L'ri:1J

stalll'

In hi:-. (l>llll"l'l\L'r:;i~ll :-cYcllt'il.·~ bt"1~)k Prc,::.f~w

"-'<.:'' ) ork im:1g~ (On,ul rant

Itlim \ loll0' t.lpi 111.'d 1h.n t:t..'nain

lll'lk

thL'' 'h.!llificlt ~l t'-..1 breeding ~1nd l,"dUCHIILlll { )f J11 tht:• k)ttd lk'Ckrie.'. he d<.:'l'l11l'1.1 r',IJ'k'\ tilt" lllll} pcrml''lblc nne bcc~u:~l.' It \\,b the .. li.mlic.. ut rhc uppt•r llliddlc d l''l'" I'rcud thought' lll' h.11..1 rhar .. h' I cngtK' ca-..-hl'r:· bcc.u

'L

d1ar J p.u lc} p.1ncrncd ric'} mb,,lized 'irilit\ -.ttlCl' it rc~cmbk·d ...perm. nw p~wdl', mmit- prm id~ ... K1r nch npponunitie~ l'r color ntl.TilCt: mh.l1ormaJ

ill\ ~.:nrion :tJkl rhL't'l.:fur'L' (.l n rc.1l iz~.· it!' full (Oil1Jilk'ir~

onh through rhe pruned medium. Jintlll\

'-)tl.'W;-Jl't

:.hm,~ o(( hi-. p~llrem~

1111\:Jng pro\\ 6:- "tth a dre.:-:-. do" 11 L lhlmbk· of qrjpl·d o.;hin. glen dwt:.k 'PPrt J:Kkct .m i ~clulard (lHir in-han~.!

("L'c

lll':lll.\c hc~nn·,

al'u

\\O\L'I1

paJ,Ic\ ut~ page ~9 ) CLUB AND '"'P 0 R TS In rhe tnrmdu(tiPn twnt 1 ngh-.h co,tume Ju,rorian

}<111ll''

his bnnk Tb, rhc cmi-

l\1

l.a\l'r pni mcd

that rill' carltL''t

tllll

rt.'(\,rded ct of porting col~)r' bdong.c~.l ro thl' I /mgari Crh:kd Club.

\\ htch \\.h l~\t.!llJcd around

J~...j.)

b) .1 gruup l)t") llllllg c~ullbridgl L 111\L'f'iltY

mJcnL" \\ho cnJ ;} ed both the ga111e nnd .llll:ILL'lll' thc;,tric.ll~. I hq \'ro1.dd JciH.feZ\Ilth

;a

thl' Blenheim J h)rd on i'cmlt

\trl.'c:t. '-lnm~titll1.' rhL""fL·aCtcr· a

~·t nl" (r1lur' '' .1' adoprt•d that could b~.. ~,n nll:d \.m

:1

lbg nnd llmrn ('' cr the

Pm 1JJ.._ Ft dunng their mmcht:" ·1ht"'' cho,c hi.Kk. a CliTUt \ bri~hr I'L'd .•md g,)IJ. tn~}mbolize outofdarkm.:,s. thn1ugh rirc. imu light" In t~/(1. when \.

#

•

'-""'

the\ (,line ro :1dopt a ric. it naturall) emb,,dietl rite' ~a me col~ >rs. \nothcrcategon motii. . th
19.2Ch. It

\\as

1

j

.,

ucd m ... m.1ll editinn~ (If subwn ~rela tl•d pat tern' printed

m '' 1..10l chaiJ i ''('.If

"-

I ach theme prtl\ illcd

it''> liCHH Cl'" \\ i rh .111 c\:Cll:o.c

111.111 '\P('rt~ f&gurcs that signified tHll..'\ soci~tl ~t:tt.us .1s .1

pol~)

h,

pl.l} cr.

g( 1! fer. :mJ n 011

It took

thl' cdcbr.lted

lliltatt hur'r lmcr hl put

r n... nch dl·

ig11er lle111'i d't )ngn).

rhc ~pc..'rrs rit:: h.Kk

i11

11.:

llcrmc-. rae has brand1cd our

Lu tll her

Jiwmr Stemm ;, ,, pm'slt'}' ul'rktit. BOITOtv1:

pas-

I

I

thl: . . . ltltlk· \\hen l1c

n.:l~.,,cJ lw~ fanll\LIS cqw·,trian J~,igns fut·l kn1tc i11 the Jl)~\l~

the d.u

;l

TOP

'Ti,day.

..

- -

ubj~."ns. such~~' paltnl rcc-., ek·phant' and b.1l

h• Hl~ g..1111~ring J tc11lo'' ing around the \\uriJ C\l'n amollg nll'n "111-. ll<.'nnalh C''cl1c"

::\11\ •

1~'1"111

)f tdl·nufi.1blc .u11re In nmd1 the :,amc \\cl) that the llcnnc . . lie":. n.lrru\\ "ill tit Jd~~" f.1:-hion anJ llhl't tlll' n"" ph) ''-lut·s. tlu" icon' "ct•mtngl) comr.trinn im.1ge '' l'rb tl) ih .k·h ~tntagt: I <'r th.: 1mc tmcnt (llmmunit} and other

uil"\. its

C1miliar J J crmc~ dc . . ign a1·g(lt l1n'

\HJrld Ot:\\t~..'it nkl ho, 'dub nc.. (:--.cc: Jlso Pnncc Ch.1rl~~\ ric page 12.R)

----

nt.11.k

it dw

T l.l E ASCOT

J h._,

.t~cott~

thl' mn"'

[~H·malt)J11l' ufnet"kuc l~nm\n It-, nJme dlrr\i. fr un

rngl.111d'~ \sc~._n r.tr:c~ hdll nnnuallr in \pril -,mn·

t.•arl i L.'r 1) pes of ncrk\\ car th:m the f~,u r in h.md t hl' .hcot '\till

)R£~ '1 ~ l;

-u L

i\fA r-.1

n adhere\ llll rt. do d hl dtt. bdong\ ro tht gc.:nn: 1h..t ltll m

1-1 • \hhough

dll' ru:H fro11t \Vurn 'pccilkall} '' 1rh ~Htn.ll d.J} dntlu?~ tlte .l'ct'Jt '' frcqHL>ntl~ found 111 ru:h :.Ilks tJf .-.ubdttL'd Cell( 1rings ~llld, in.:i ·il'lllalh all~)l·ds the genrJeman n ho \\ p.:h,.. u~ 111d11l!!'-' 111 i \.~bpl.1} ,lijl.'\\clr) rhe opr)onunit) lLl wenr n cr(''-tt~d pm t.>r n pc:1rl ~I Oll~t). a cots .1 rt:' \\urn ftw !i-1rmnl d.t) .Jn_.!-1~ c . .pcci:dl} \\ edding. Jnd ro11. sdu,~

J'=

ngut·ur al hunting owing. rhl' Fhlinted cndt'd blade., .trc tt~."Cl m a -.impk I nt:•t \\lth tht t.:nJ\0 cm,~~.:d c.>H'r the ~hinframt t11 l~>nll a pl.~twn on cl1e che l the

pearl. prder.1bl}

J

\\boll -,t.•t"urcd b, a cr.n n pm n

r~.tl on~.-,~, quorc f1·om .1 19J 3 <..;a:t•Jtt dt· Btm 1im. 'oOt."T} ·"' htgh .trhnl r oi l , ••lit~.

JtHit. ··1 ur a m.m to \\Car the. hcot proper!). along" ith the nobilit1 nfhi" m.mn<:r t1u: .uuhunq "i

his g.ti!. :md Lhe 'olumt~ l)f hi~ mf',. ), an deg:mt beanng ~'Uid much nJntr.tl iJldi!'ncn~nbk•.'' r

·rll E

bolt

pr..:.'il'lkl'

.m.· l!l.t.'l\1~

·l, much for rhL' ~lh'ragc joe being nblc tO muck ~n·0und 111 unc '" '"'

Bo ' v l -IE ThL· bcm tie deri,,·s fmm the ccnturie -old 'i:ql~ knl'''n

or\\" hahl~ l~lbric \\ r.'lpp~d tn.lll)

rime.•lrnund the

fle'l·k

.t...

£ht.:

'h1 d

d

and Ut~d in front I \t.>ntualh rht.•

stock,, ,1, rl'dli("~J tn a 'i11~le ha11J around rhe rwck '' ith h~ end~ tied up Ill rhe h~m uf h JJ

\t

nitlL'tL·L~Il l h cl!nrun. there'' ere La lca'il two dt!"tinct m£tdd . . t,fb{l\\ nc' tilt ~tn • tarll} and t ltl:' hat \d ng The "·arliLT hunc•rll~ t) l~ ''a' dtaractenzed b\ brl.Md tl.tru:i . . h .. [X

d1c t.:nd (If rhe

---end',, ho'~ "h.ll! bo" riC>d up "ith ct :>m.tll knot Tlw 1!1m~d I n~hsh manufacturer \\·d,h \ l.u·g~t'-L"~n. aloll~ '' irh orlwr [ 11 gl1 h firm ... called rheir bunrrtl~ b"'''~ tl11'-tk· tie~. which '-' \\,1.

a more accur.l.tl! dc . . cnprion of rh~ir form Luc-r on, rhe burrcrtl) w·.IS 1110'-litled into a narrl)\\~o:'r

~hape "irh qu.tre end:- and n:nn~d rhe ·'batwing .. \lrhough

rhe dTcct "a' pa~Kticilll} rhc ~anw. it '' .1' .m~1incd "ith

llllKh

Jt:Ss rroubl~ The butterfly· '' ing' h~1d to be m~1dc in di!"l~·rcnt

,, idth' ro .1rcom mol.latL' \":lf}'iug un~Jmpcd, .,tr.1iglll C'lh._b

(\)I! a r

or the ban' ing fir

heigh t.s. wh i It: the

CdJbr '>ilL'\ J ll \mei'JCa. dw. 't} le came to be knO\\ n a.." rhe dub bu\\: AIrhlmgh rhc:) can l~ \\Ort1 intcrcharlgc;lbl}. tlh' thr'lk ends ,houklnol ~xcet·d 2 ~ 4 inche_, or bL·Icss d1::tn .2 1 4 inrhc' Ill'' idrh. while dw bat\\ ma'_ t ..tb" c.m rang~ b~nvecn b ~

Bo" tic~ can be ''orn occa~ion!>, Ja) or C\'ening.

1'

011

1

llll''t

inch~.' h1 2.

both

inchL''·

(~,rm~1l

:1nd

inl~'nn<11

and are (Orren" irh ~..·ithc.:r '-tnglc-

or dl'ublc brc.1sred jackN'. t\s rhcr cxpn~t· more.· ,hJn(J\'IH rhnn &.he ltmucr l·~lttr-in-h~md. it· i~ not .::-

sumc form

of~ \\ai ... tcoar

ro find

lltli.'Otnnum

in :lrtt•ndancc The bow

til'

tends

lll

be adopted b) rhu. . c men "husr prnfcs . . itlll' rcquirL' th~111 w lean O\er frcqul!ntly. such a' archir~cts. doctors ..mcl ''aitcrs. In \meriLa. the lxm ric retKhcd ib pc~tk ol" pt)pubrH) 111

rhc nud thinics. [Jucatcd bcm de l~1rc l·or

man "cnr omcrhing like rhi!>. a t~ 'ulard bow ""

till'

fDr

a

n'llcgc L\\ ccd

Jacket. a plaid buttcrtl} fur his ')inglc-brc.btcd gabardine !-llit. .md m:t} be J rcginw11ntl bat\\ ing '' ith hi~ ~hcrl:'md j:1ckct
..

cumbi rl.ltton~ .md de,tgns

\<\'raring tile Bow Tic In the hnnds uf :111

1.!':\PI..'I'it.:tlC\.:d

pcu.:ti ~

Le Corbrtsic:r q·itlg IIi$ b,,w tic iu aaonlcwcr ll'it!J IIi)> m~,od.

tlunl.'r. the bm\ ·s final .:bnpc can end up inilucm:i11g dw nutfrt·s O\t:raiJ im.1gt! ~ell rTJ(,rc chan its fabriL >-:~o.'Ck\\t'!lr ~huuld nut

d1 t:r;Jct from th~ t:K~

.111d

bccau:-.c t[ is usunll} th,:

llh.l::.t

L

-

prl'Hni-

nent item of doth mg. i[ musr ah\ ·•>' bc GJreli.tll} prcsen1 ~d. I krc' l he architeC't It' ( :urhu.,icr (at rt1p)

f~htuning hir.. slip of Mlk to Ci.lnlorm "irh it:-. more t'rdcrcd

tt.s bcncf.tcrnr\ h:mdmork. the bo,., ·s f~,,·mmion suggc h

.1

'-'11\

irom. \sk(.''' c..:rwugh to rclll!tl

man in control t.."~fhis PJJ\ ironment. of

hi, 0\\11 l}lc .\ltcrnari'elr (bdou:J. he 1._ c.-apmrcd m lt''i .tustl.'rt· circurn~tancc-;, rdlc..'cted l>01h hjc; fact.ll L'Xpn:

'-tOn and

b} hJ!'!lllL'rc C
prcsl.'n~e of rl \\.ll~tcoat \\ htch hdp~; t1..1 mmimizc thl' from·, opelll'Xpilll~c

--

----

111

----

f j

16!

.....,

a af'

•

0

Tt-tE BOW 11E SHOULD F1NISH .VITHIN THE OUTER EDGES OF A MAU S £YES AHO Tr.~£ ~ DE L r ~

o.-

5 F

t.

tir . . qJi"ltl) t\\ni ..-.qc ~o,hnulJb~.·~_·,m idtrLL:I fJr,t ih \tdrh!\h uld,ht the ourr..~r t.>dgl' ,,f.l pcrlinn\ l~cl:' .•md dl'ltnitt.•h m~r bqtHh:l rill: btt.tJt.h .. (h, . .

lll\\t':tr,lblm

C\te!ld ht:}L'nd

n)II.J r \:- \\ i rl1 \'rher n~"'l-b' ~:tr r h'-' ,hj n '~ \:'oil a r .;la;u ld Fr.unc.' 1 he rie" l.nnL . . 'lllL' n .J],ir lt~llf.t.'r 'tT.1igln pt;>im lW "~lfter .1\ t'ra~c' ~

'iZI...' hu\\

st.'llll

llnn'l purch.l~l"' Ull)

l'nd~

up\\ it hin rhl' L"nlhlr ...

btl\\

tie\\ itlllHll Jlr~t

II\ ing

'lllL.'r

cJg'-·' 1~ c l 1h

that it

t

cdeJ tht: ongan d t '\,Kl "11~ h ''' .b ro he- ~i.:rtttmth;-tt I[ -.n bt sh ·tn

it dll

0

~

~~lur c~act nee!.. :.i/t'. ir:,

lCt·c

'Hpl'r

ened "'nough ro hnnn,mi:~.e "ith \l)ur t'" 11 fact.tl f~aHJrc-. 1 h1" ml"'.m" rh.n h1

\\it h

spre.Jd co!I:ll·" '' 1!1 happ1l~ aaonunod,nr ht

ph~ilwd wda). thanb to l11c graduated hand~~ 'tl'l1l that

aJju ... f,·d it

Jl'\\ 11-o

tTL'.

I nsuriug th~lt rh!? bti\\ \width tiC

Ht~n{ 111

1f .I(tt; r \C\U

bl'" ;.., 'IIIItclo ''Ide (a ,-\,lll11lun plt>blc.:m) chc.. ·k h

h.t\l '-c

L.111 ~uJI

I I1L'

be m.h.lc "lll:tllcr l
.

"g,trtll~lll tkiT LOillbill~'- GnnridClll tllllll"l'h \\ llh .lb-.~.,,,ll[t; rc'pcct ..IbJJJt\' l hl•f\..' I"' Jll\ pntn[ Ill

~pl1rting Lhl' brm bl)\\ lllldl·r

\Our

lit: tll1lc

::>

chi11 .lu\.1

~qu plan 1.,111 r~ iltg II \OU

0

unprc~.:IiL"tnhle .. ,, irl~ g.iH" )<'HI

}•Hii''t.lr

Pl.Kt' a llUlhL'tnltk.dh pert~ -r rr'\j

tLll·~nkL' .til I Ill~ I\ tdu.1l1t\ llw h.md nl'J bn\.\"'

tlhH

111\Jl'IJ\

lo ,p...,

Ut.:U t

d

suhtle m . . ~..mn:tJt..·t~ dun dt'"'>~rL'd ..1plmnb

their~ \\ilh mt>n! !\.mgfn•1d th.m the fn:nch bnult\Jf<~.ll\:f ..

J .lllt r l'hilippe '-:c)jreL llerc hl' t~1~h1o11. 111~ dub brm '' ith under... t.n'-"<1 d4111 -h,n·d 1:Kkct .Jfp•.tt.. :t '' m tCl1:lt. ~o1i l)11br ~hirL mini dot DO\\ -.pm of f..ml.ud .11 \.11'-''l. .md 'tU z tllr: idll dw ,bft.; t tun cig.tr. .. lJnJI,c ..llt'llfl .. nr irs lll"'l SIICL'illft 'llh.' )l1ll .ln.: mun.• m.ch I'tl fmJ flll n \\lth rt.d per ~ lllnl ..,q·lc frt.. m thu:-;e \dw hnH·Ih \.·d lung c.'nough rtl h.n c l'b \.1'\ ._•,u Jf .lJld thc.u appr lpn::un.ln le" men

f(H· tiH..·m~c-ht''

\\c,lr

i11 ~._nlll·r "')rd ... thl· n\L'r

ftfl\ '~t

-

-

-

1

N

Ph1l1ppe N lti t s!Jo" u~ hu Galltc gout

f

c /.: \\ I .A

•

DRI:: '·' r N:tr TH r i\1 :\ ';-..•

--~

T}'itlg the Bow T;c L'-'arning

to

knnr

riK'

b(m tic i" m-n tht: daunting m k

)OU

1mght imagine tt

requires Ill> tm>rl' 'kill rhan tying' ot r 'hllC.!'. Onl' "m to pracri~c i.:- to f1r5t rn nnw 1\.UlL' .tround hlUr • tr,..;J ~

I

Q

..

lhigh. SirJo,, 11 and eros~~ our legs.\\ r:1p the bcm an,und) 0t1r thigh jusr abV\\:' dw knl.X' :\m\ do'~

yottr l') L'S ~1nd tit: it J.<.. H1ll \\ 1.)uld roLl I" shod~lC\!. \.."'lpcnin~} ('llf C~ l'.',) OU ~hlmfd 1ind l hm . .!It h ugh 11 ll\:I} lad~ ~1 cc•·tain nc.srltetic }'Oll haYl manipulatL'd the bl-,w t1Hl1 J re(o_f.nizablr knut \Vi1 h n ...;nil ''TappL·d ..tbnttl vn11r knee. rhr bl)W GHl BL)" be fin~ wncd 11mld It le-11 1, ,op in )'tJttr l~(r h~md and the rtght lm'p in) 011r right. Pull1n~ tla~ r\\O loop:-. 111 nppn ne din:t: t iot1~ 1ightcn~ 1he knot:.'' hdt.' pulling rhL' two t,tb L'nrb rc.-.hnpt.:.s a.nd ~u·.11ghrcn' the loop

.. \ Crt'r t:mDJ iarihing y•1ttr<•cll \\ lth tl~t.• prl1CP!'-.. lhl\\

1ry

knouing it around~ lmr neck bm

without ~1 shirt FL'r Ill)\ lccs. the :-;h 1n collar c<,mpl icatc-. rhl' le.trning pron~:-~ The big J,ffen:nc~

here i · 1h:.H in ,rJer ro get blallc

tllll'>t "t.lrl

out Ct)ur

e:tl·h

L1r

..-id~? nf dtl! be"'

tll ,.:omc \)Ur equaUy

m "idth and lt·ngth

.-.o inches l,,ng('r dt:lll thl· orhcr \\ "hic:h ,jde} ou cht\l'":t·

fd

l'JlL

lllJU

llmg,·r i~ rca II} up t·p} oLL

--- ------- - -----

-

------------ 1-H E F 0 UR-I

1-

H .\ ~ D Th~ term "l~)ur in lund" l(x Lh\:.· ~1 ipkuot nnw

om the \\oriJ came im.' ~,· 1cmilbc .u the end

l'r Lhc

nitwtl'l"tHh

Ll'IHllf}.

\Hll'll

duuugh

The cx:1,.:t dt•ri,,Hion

of the term 1.. 'ull un,cLLil.:d \tun~ time. it \\.b tlllltJgln t0 bL· a rcferLTKc to rhc h)tJr-in ll~n~l

England in the nint:tC\:'nth cumuq b) young nten who indul~cd in c:lJTi:1gc r;J(lllgand then adopted thi~ t) pc ofknot ror their lit.'' l)r, itt.-Pllld haYe rl?fcrrcd lll the \\:1) l)Jll' Club timrh.lcd

111

hdd the rem of a four hot· c "-arringc Th~..·

tit.'\\"

tour in hanLI knm \\'~b qui\."kcr

w l'Xccutc. nnd

ccm Jdcrcd more ma:\culinc tlwn the dccnrou.; blm tit.·.

\\I tit 1t' conn01~rs and harmoni~..·.... rhc Jh.'dni~..·'..; dL''1gn C<.:lmc~ ckN? rtJ tilL· ann( p.1int ing·

hPWt'\Cr knotting it l'L'St'mhk·-. th~..· :ll'tll(.sculpwn·. Th~.... man•wr in \\'hiLh a ne is kncJthxl oflcr.., rhe onl~ tnt~ rncan:' ofimpt• .. ing onc"'s indi\ idunl

st.llllp 0 11

ir ( )"-'~" Li111~. Lhi" mal~ ric~.:: !il1l'ukl eV< 1hl'

mro .morhrr mnnitcc:.mrinuufonc\ pc..'r'L'm,J :-t) lc ~ lust men'' CIT intn1duccd [l1 rhc dr . . cipl i ti L' o( ncckti•: decorum b: thf'ir Cuhcr~. :it h.-~..· d1"~ m.ljl>nl) Cl11Hilllrcs

unn a ...ntnch~,.n, . . aero

1~~\\ h.ne ncr rn i!'itcd

'tllKt.

dem.m designer Lunann Harbcr.1, one

rihmghr. on

h1s rcl.ttion~hip

,_,f Italy"'

to

rcgarJ this c~1rlr indoctrina

this prucl·Ju1·c in

;.1

crcariH' manner. l ~L'll

l'l~"pccrcd raqcm:1kcrs. ~hare.., -.nnw

tllL)"l

wirh the necktie: "The tic iullow_.. rhL~ culture. In the 1-i(rics. I wor('

abm ne In rhc,ixtie-.. I tried a \\ 'ind~orknl..'t.ln thc'c..'\L'lllic~. l wcntl..'pen~ncckcd In the caghtJ~s. 1 h.1d \\Jilt 1!-

cl

big ~lggrc,~i\1..' knm that s:1id. 'Don't mc. . s \\ith me '\.c.m· I find that "hat I

.1lc .. , fu,,cd

l)\Cr

knot'' id1 a ,l.,.ft plc:1ting. It I" '11nplc. It is dccbrarivc. Ir

feel~

right.

I ~0\\ "ill I \\car 111) tit in the n~xt decade? \VIm knuw~? t\$k me then_"

\!though 111

1\\0

knot~.

the \Vindsc.lr and

half~ \\

h.tllcl n:main-. the prcK'JTcd ktwr lilr mu~t I·:Ki::d


men. The four-in hand\ principal adV:lllt':lgc

mdsnr sui! enjoy limited

L) p~s

i~

~m d l~1r ~he

tlwt it

1..,

u~c. rh~ f()ur

wurld\ mosr ck·gantl)

the .simpJc,r knnr to c:-:ccutc

Jnd it rlllnm:r (rnme rl(.:; into all :-;hirt colbrs \\ ithuut pushing its point~ awar (rl)!ll the ~hin bod\ like the \\idcr bt>died \\'iw.lsors. <..Jn a purcl) architectural basis. ir~ conic~111~1rt11 il:Hrers more rnc-n' faces rhau th~ \\.im:f,{.1f\ horiZltJlLal gcomctr}. \\ hich lonl' att,dd~ ttlldcr :1 L.lpered dun ·1 h\.:· fnur in hand·s ~tighrlr a'rmn11~trical set al~ll help.; rhc prc-.cnrarjon appl~:tr Irs~ fu~'} than rill unmctriatll} t.1tic and tri~ngular \Vithl,l)J" pre . .entaLinn. It' h,bnd the half-\\'indsf'IJ', c.m :1lmost hl' excu~c~..L i!"onl) whelp n thin ti~· prl)tlttCl' a l.trgt}r knot llo\\t:>\er hould a fulkr !...not be "Jc.;irc~.l. ir's better tnn b.t~tcall} .t four in h~md luupcd 1.}\~r .u:rr.l~tl\c to .. hurt m~n be-=.au~c it

results

;.1 St'Cllnd

i11

Ln ll"l

the Prince ,\lbl'rt \cr

rime. I hi.., fl'::~turr nqkl'' it p.lrti(\d,lrl)

:1n ;thbrL'' i~ul·d

tic

IL·ngth Il1l'r~ cnn~istl'lll 'L

thcu 0\t.Iture. \~'hen luoping th~ rw Oh.:r the n:lrr,,\\ ~trip. rnrc ~huukl bt·

knot roo nghtlr

othCf\\1'-t'

knot. lite Pnncc: \lbert\ clu:~ lonk 11 mchabnc('_

pa~s:tgc

ell\}

or tl.l.'

Sl.'Cf'ltld

Lilkcn

"ith

nut to pull the

lnop "dl be dillJclliL. Like the four

llliJll"trkal Ct add-that ~;lllltar~ IPllch so import:llll

ill

ill

lt.tnd

COilH.'ying

or

Rc.~garding

rrl.mun l11p

th

tt'\

the appropriate \\idth nf:-t m.111·~ tic the princip.1l criterion hn.!- .rhHl~.!) h~en

thl' jack~t lapel

llJ1Ce .tgaill, t:1shinn

mu'l

d~fc..:r w rhc :1rchit~cturc o( its

-t-' 4 inche~ ''ill gene-mil) cn~ure longf'' ir~. \ Jli:Hl \\llh n.lrrt)~\ "houldcr h:1 lc~ chest to drape a lapci.Km~s. and thereh:w~ ib nan·o\\er dinll'll prat:utimh.:r-.

"-H

\\',Jth-. bc..·t\\CCn

n dtctate.., that the tJe

--

) 1 :t

inchc~ and

foliO\\ su11 CCHnl'rc;cl}.

a

111.111

who ha!'l brl):ld ~houldt.•r~.; rt'quin· dw

N I! c K \\' L•.o\

-

---~

-

l

~---

I(,NlCKWLitR

tHE" TYING P~E.OIJRE ,AIMS TO EXECUTE A TAUT KI'IOT WITH A DIMPLE UNDERNEATH.

__j

(,l·tting the kn"n to tOld rhi:.- \\a} i:- important. bccau~c i(i tightened properly. th~

t\\0

:-illL"' uf it~ crea..,\.· \\ill deepen. blo:-,oming our und~:.·r Lhc knnr. andl~.lnng tr ~ll rhar it rc~iq~ lno~­ ~ning It j, partKlilarl~ nnportanr upon fir.:-t knouing a nc'' ric ro rq ro makc the knot dimple

pmpcrl}

.1;

the neck-tie' lininJ anJ .. ilk cn..:a..;cmenr (cmn a "mL'llH)ry" rh:.n" ill a!)~ist in rhc dim-

f le . . lnrm.nion the nexl time..· out. Thi." i:-; ~llh'l her rc..':bull wh} nwt\.' "t':lS\ Hlcd pr!l..:rit ioncrs of thi5

,tn h.:nd [O prd~·r !1.1nd

'L'\\

n Ik..:hi~" of wtnelt silk The

\\ll\'L'll

:-;ilk·~

rc.xrurcd ..;url~c"· hdp~ di-.

Cl,ur.:tgc undue ,}ippngc of the knot. nnd rlw g~...·nuinL· handmade anide hn~ gn.:at.l'r 1 hth mort.~ ten 1011 can bt- impo"cd on the knot:\\ ithout ruining rhc tit;~ fabric

\\ &rh rhc parriaUr complcrcd knOl

qp..

re~ilicnq.

pcndcd rrom rh".. neck. place both rhttmb.!i

Jll'l

bdo\\ the knot under eirher ide oF top blaJc...: '' irh d1e lorct"ingcrs rt:sring. Jirc..:rl) above. Pull do\\11 martl} )ou \\ ilJ find thar the tic\ top blade'' ill .,ran tn buckle: in the middle ju:-;[ belu\\ dt(' kn n fitrming .1 slight com ex cm·it}. It "ill com inuc to

du on the upper blade

j,

pulled tiglu L;t•nd) guided

Lo

1

it~

)

fln.1l de,umnion b} tl1c rip~ of rlw rhumb and forefinger pf

nne h.tnd (,t.., opposed to the Eu of the palm)" hilc the other hand hold') tht.> bnrtom blade

111

place. the knot. arri' . .::-

appearmg t"rt•~;,her. more rda..xe"l and ueed i "g lc..;s fi n.1l Jdju-.nncnt

If tht.>

l) m~ prn~c.durc i.;o,

not e\cnn.ed "ith :u1

llm .uJ producing .1 rnur knnr. tht> tie ''iII not h.l\ c the ncccs ·an 'prm~ .1ruund its. klltH to arch out from the collnr. as if

pmsrd .n artl'lltnm ln~tt.!.."ld it,\111 hang.lrlc n dead Ctl\h com· prmnic.mg the "t.tmre o( the entir~ arrang~mcnl.. \\ nh the tie .. pn

ltl• Hkd

J~1

\11\\

m.trtl~ up uuu d1~ Lollar. ir~ JunpiL: ~xtcnding

Jrd d11.~ t:'{'lllP ,...,ttion pruJ~ct~ ..1 4iublrmin.tl.mrhl)rii}

A "TAUT KNOT LETS THE TIE

J\RCt-! OUT F'ROt-: ll-iE COLLAR WITH MINIMAL F'E.RIOOIC Ao.JUSTMENT

-

--

- - -

-

---~--

I

I

-

-

T il E N EC K ER C II J E F ~incc .mch..'nt time.. a m:m has ~th\ J\ ... fdt DR£. t>Sl N l• TH.Fti!AN

tht. lil

t

""'T\

h.' \h.

r

~tHnethlllg :ll'("lltlh.i hh 1lt!ck. \~'ith the cxplo,ion fll.mmll•ru 'JlOrt't\h'.tr m dw JI.JlO" the 1 u h

ofthl't'rl~n nc("kcd !'lf'llrt shirt in,ptrcd n \';lriL·q ~>fnt:\\ ''~}~ wappmntth( ned. I ifl);u JH'J' ui:Jr r,l:;hion .It [urDpc~lll \\,liLTing holes, the ~pOrt\ !\Car(\\.l' and 'lliiJJ;; du">d} tdL"IlUfh;J \\Jth l~idern high''} le

J \ ...

illtcrmuiumtln·a,d .tcc.."cler.Jtl'd the ..h.1opnun ofltght\\t t~ht

"PPfh\\l:

''·'"'n·t lnng bd~,re the llt:\\ 1/.llltdt•cozt begnn lltrnmg up around dw ned.., of rrurtl F'OI..DING THE NECKERChiEF

tOLOINO THE NECKERSCARF

, ..

.'

,• ' '•

.

, . .• •• ,

TYING THE NECI
•

.----- .

t

n1

r 1r

J ,Jill

-\m\.'riCUT1'i from I he '\\.luth o(

rrancc

l()

till' C.uibbt.':lll's

n ft,h -.rmn~hokh 1\h.'l

basiL mo~.id.., n( :-pnn nc~l'' c~u b~~.111 .

1.1ki11g ...

h.tpe 1 he mnrc common ''~~ rhl' neckerchief. .1 -.plid Cl,jl,r

t.\r partt. n1cd 'qu.m! o( -.ilk. corwn. or nrlll·r m.Hcri~tl t h~l£ \\ <1~

knom·d t.lrdrap~d m .1.:-cor ta:-l11on around lhe neck (tJppt 1.'itc,

wp) \t lllle pOI Ill in the mid rhinics. l)l'hL·r dun !(,r :tl~'nnal \h'.tr I:t, llUt~ C\ en• I k·ll," \lOO hl.":td ~hor of .1 m..1ll· '-t'l'lllL'U to • fc.1ture one 'crsi m (.)r anorher l ,f

thcsL'

c.1-.ual nc" k-.cu \c ....

lake l'aq <;rum here. l1km, hL' h.t... a hca~..l stan in the '

deb 1nnrr dcpnrnncm. bu[ drape a ncckcrdlicr in a t hm" ou·r sq lc und~.:·r a mund:mc knit polo and wund neck

pullm l'l' and pre,to. in~tant chic. The ccond :.carf 'n lc was the neckcrtic. "hich "as a ~

. ,tk

qu.trc t~1ldcd nn.,und the n('ck "irh it:-; cnt.f.,Jpn,dy rkd in

a four

hnnd ~t) lc (oppasur. m£./Jlc tmd bl,ttl1111). 0Lhcr 1ha1 1 rhe

111

Frrnchm~m ... pnning ~1 loul.1rd

l'·Jd £uropc.m. ur c pcci:1ll} n l:Ot

Jl \

.

;1 r.Uit) hl

anpnorc. I or

1110::-1

fj 11d

men.

f)

a

man \\'Cari 11}.!. ~

cl

llt:ChTch ll.J

ing 'omcthing ~Hound rhc neck

r..mack.-. of the- tit~:\} rhe (cmininc.

l)r

bctth. ·11w. ''

.t

bit

biZ&liTC c:uKe most mtddle-m;rcd t\meric111s ~~rL'\\ ut) ~ r wnruh-

ABOVE

CnT)' Gra11t w'al'ittg a neckr.!rclri~f. BELOW·

Animating the oprn nccklim· with a scaiftird·likt· aJour-in·hcmd.

•ng RO) l~oger and
athc lm neck decor nC\ the\ r. klc herd on tlw bad ~u\ s. '

~

I

v\ err the neckcr. Glrf ever ro ::-L.lg(' ... :1 1~1::-h iL)Il "·nmL'back. thc ne\\ mode in c.lSual office mrirc mi~hr "dl become ....

tt5logu:.ll "PL'>n"or. \\ nh 311 manner of rid(:."" neck~ de,ccnd i ng.._ nn rht> modern \h'rkplace. a '~riet) tll- alternate neck treat mc1tt' uuglu pn..1\ 1dc n wdco111C rein:( from to\\ h:n promi ...c~ to be m ern t~f rdatncl} blanJ bu lllt>~-.~bod) cmering (\t.'l.

pngc 2-~)

---

--- c~~-

T

1 ht! c' ~lot' nnd p:Htt.·rn of .1 lll.m lw,l' w~ tht anonul s nw 1h l\Hl

t,•xruml om:po ts

ht'lll.: t tc:\

tnkt:

111

g}

n:itcmungat fl, urlc:HI.t~uJ.,r._ rpntr.:rn fmnd

upper :tJu:i It>" s?r /..\

th:'

tb,· \\h~1lc picture. I t.:•\\

bt:glll to m.'t\hlrl

.1n1q

\\ nh

•n

t

r

th .. ,)

lk rt1

c:.tch Jth~;r pn mpun~ tlt

capturt.•d :\bnhatts 11'- cal~"

llltl\ \\JtJ

II 1 t

nu h

li~hliC'\' d yuitl! .1 It\\ he.: ~L' but \\l: \\Ill iocu'i, n tht'~ It d t. i nu1 1htr~ r '11it.111g lu-. .lllkl\:' sl}

DR I. s .. , r\(, iT u r M A :'II

Jn stnp1

anr Jre.

dut1 tt1td hosr

armt J>~rLr Anra rdtat5 m lmr.ar ftJ' 11

----

-

1

--~-------

..J.

IIL'r~\ thcd~b'icn~'} Jn.·,, suit L'nlh~n~d

b,• •t

J

"lurh' md llf nm} and" hire :Kn.''"l)ric!' .. \\.ld

red carn.tnon ~md \Oll CL'mlJho'l \our 0\\ ll arwr •

J

noon \\t:dd111g ,\hJmugh s,llid mn1 dr'-''' lh ~-.."-·

\Hmld be dw '~milia of choice t~ ,r :-ot~~.:h .1 l~·a:-t vf fonn.tlm "irhtlm .1 parrcrn bdcm the w.1ist w int~"f3t~ thl• t"O'tWlll'\ l"\\ L'lliah-L'', the b(lt tlllll h.1l r ~

is ll:ft m r~:.·lmhc cclip''-~lmpll'llh!IHlll£ .... uch .1 rchtri(li1Ship is

lh.H

"itKb J d:nu1t mg rn,k. 'J(, bct!in. hP~renJ ~hu1 tld matrh .... ... th~

h'-l

rrou-scr r:uhL:r th:m th'-· .sh,)L: fnut\\'<.'ar ~md JCr")

rh~u ar~

pcrcci' c~..l H~ a unir ult irn~ltd~ .scpa

r.ue rhcm che~ fi·om rhc rrou~r. !'>n 1pping thl' C) t.: at t!JL: p~mt

lt:g bmtnm insrC~h.{ Ot: C•..,Ctlning ir all the

\\,1\ d(l\\11 •

to the llom: \\ irh

~h'-lt.'!- na'} "L>cb

:t

nan·• suir and black

app1..'ar richer than black. \ \'i l h a

d.uk gra} Stilt and bro\\ n l~>om ear, ch;1rco~tl ho. . c \\ ould th\.' mnre ~I} lbh coku: \\11 ile apprnprin rc I(1r

lornlai \\t:at' and pracdcall) oblig.twrr fpr those s\\,ttltc.J he.1d to roc In rcgubtion hlnck. black IH'~L' .. -.hould b'-• .wuidcd .lt \Jther time'. "' ll~>sc noir" [fall\ l~mns the aukle imo :1 bl.tck hole. dim111ish111~ th~u ~

'' hich n could bt:amif\•.

Pattcmt:d hose ltelp intc,grr1U llllcl c:nlit~t'll the.• top fltld bottOcnt hall't's o{Ms t'tlst•mb!t:.

-

--- --

THIS PAGE

Saclul Guitr)' in silk dress ho$e ~111d crocodile lace-ups. OPPOSITE :

Tite slrcen C?.{Deau Acheson$ atrtl Al'erill I farriman's lrosc

connerr rhr:1r dim1er clothes to rltdrformal shors below.

\ 111.111' ho~c .tbo nctx1.' m be nunp.Hihk· in drl''~illL'" \\ith it'

up

tJJrs

t\\l)

rt\.>w•cr and thm 11-'r.1ir' 'hoc: \' , gL'Tll'l':ll priTk·iplc. tlu: mt rc l~wmal

rlh'

lll'ighbor:-.. the

~11'-~o'tllhlr. t h~

flnt:t or llh)J"C ..h.:~r rlw L_,,'ilk drt''' hn"tt'n. \utlt ir' inhercm 'himmct: dll.'t'L'I~)rl'. Ct'lltilltiL'" tn bL' the .111klc: l'lllbd

It hment ~,f ·hoKL'Iin· rhc Cl.)gno,(l.'rHi l'f.tt"tcr -.i:-.: Lhic ·r:tkc llllLC l"l( Lhl' h~1'c \\llfll h' '-.Khat ;ui m l.mcoftht.'~rc.H b ule,ardier,oftltL' ln.·nclt "ta~l.' I I.'" (l"ltlll.'lllP'lran mend\ nllllsicr~ ll(dti, -,hL-ernc . . l'I"tlpJ.k• . . ~,.·('IKC. bm it dllL'' complcmcm rile . . uhtlc lwacr fn•m ht:- (Tll(l,dtk• ..;hl'L'". I ih.· \\ i e ,.>b,cn c l ard111nl ~F'dlman .1.-- piCtured here" ith t\\ u prL,mim·lll ~llld "dl-drc:-."cd '1 uc,m \!11 ufdwird.l} I c,m \cht'!-l,.lll.md \h·rrll J larriman. lk~innittg"ith dtcir,ill. . - laccd l.tpcl!->. tr~1\di11g

J

\\11

rh~1r u·ou,t:r 'C:;lllh ,md culmin:uing .. \\ irh thctr

'ilh.:k.... .llh.1

~hu~'>.

:111

unbroken ,eL umlbllu

"'' ~ sn·ipe oflt\!ht in plnmarc.-. each ~'-·'-·riot! ot" dw ("Hilrit "Hit th12 llL'\.l '\nricc hu\\ \If I brriman':lm"c t:'con: rh~ hecnti·L".,m hi:- rrou,Lr 't.:~lllb dm\ 11 H• hi:- pmcm lc:uht'·r L'Yening .. ht)C'.

I ( O.SJ nrY ll i\R.\IONI£5

-

I

DRE '~I" G

r

rJ E.

.'Ill .A

•

As wifh lJJciJiuo \ 'i$(oOillii tw.i Frank Sinmr~s rhtrk ;;illi'. J~r tltt' st,rk !t1 ~f_l;ocr a ~l}'lMi ~r.zuJition

bm1·un

frc.mst·r· cmd sliLit', it tlrtW 5lrcliY .'CIJIIC' t!(rTit'rr plty~rtitl pnlpmn'.i-

----- --The bulkier 1h(· mnCit, dw 1m:~rc ~'lh.' mwa

Sh?p

up th~ -.ud..\ duclnc'-~ ·~"'"·un~r ,,.ul

wn li~lc ho:,c.' would ~lppt:ar lnq '' ith .1 p.1ir of hc.n} tlmmd :-~1. \.-k., .md .t t''"' L't..i "'P 11 Fl J rot \\ci~hin~ in bn11..:.arh thL· ~l1 r~u dirc.'Ctl'lr I uchilin \ is-.-tliHI\ tbnnd trOlt"t:'r' .1rc \\ 1ttl ll -.e JU ~ ~ "ide.· chnn k.)

rib~. dem~m . . t r~u ing .tg.H u ho''

1he

:igc.·nq of re"nm..• run join d1tl( rent!''''' h •ns f

:m 'll~t·mhlc. Likt'\\ i:;~- rwt uul) dol>), 'ung I rank 'ii1:Jll'a\ :-p '1 n h '"" lu1h ht' 0JmllJ tl\ ll"i.:P. cnar-.\:·r h'~ run• "i th rh.n of hi~ i nf(,nn:tl blnchc.:r hKe-up... but hi-. arg' lc-. \\ ang ll tht une

bent

.1:-.

his

nerkuc.~

---

--

S

QE_

soc s ECK . EA

\' lllClltl 111cd prL\ IOU•·d\ the bc~l drC~'-l'd llll'll llll)l.., llthlll ;1((\..':-.sorit..::-> :l" (Uillf
th. struggk Jg.un ( ...Jfl(lrl.ll ntcdincnt) \\ IH n:.Is hosier} h:t" long rul(iik·d

-.Jitllth... l

1 gu.trda,In

o!"thc .111klt: n

hlnk ,,me tunc h(•illT'C it

.:rufappard -, h~'nphisllclll.'d

rmll11ll.

111.111

il!'

h)giL'Ilir

1"1..':-;potl

oHdd dch'IPp intP ih "lC:tlnd;lr}

tll.tlw I
n 11mg lu hl 1igcnr \\ nh lu" fout'\\l .1 r \\ ath t h1s pt'l.:~o:~d 'Ill 111 plclc"L.:. \\h) c.-,uld n·t IKis il' r} \ t:

~

•

I r

llh.l

p.lttt rn'

.alo; , prumntc..: h.n·mom bt:l\\ ccn ditYcrclll senor' uf

1 uttn-- \\ hc.:11 n ·lk\\l.'3r mouf ~ud1 .1s P''lk:-~

b tl• r t l"ptn J

(I

t

I n: nh

t

~ t11

dnt\

. tnl'cs

.111d "pii,ll'

n 'W lppear Ill tinl gauge\\ 1lll drL"' lw .. itT\ 111Cil \\ere rur t l t.lkL c.: nur~

full td\:lntJgt:: L

':1 r

ll

cmblc

lr rJu :lC\."t:\'-1.ln

lllL't'C:l mg

f'Ol~.'lll i:JJ

ABOVE Gt111' Ctlopcr dons complt·mflllaJ)'ItllSf ,wtf •

{
hc~ud

Bogg uSts hJs parrJM1ll"1 ro d:realus ho££s ciMrucra.

-

---rh the ell~l Jf th~ 19-!0~ lnnq ho't'

a(U1unu...J tl:n· u{l percent oLt.ll men· 'l'(k purch.t~ocs '-em

(.J t J.'

a princip.1l cb.:mKrcr. tht·

, -=k.. ml~ c~p.md~d be) ond the :-nnplc cxdt.mgt~ of d l.llllh'l.IC \\lth the neck ric t' l 'll:ll

c' lbbor.m..u· .tnd ro ,}, ccnr~r -m1~'-" .lk'n~'i'-lc thl' t)tht·r ert-.~mblt• pb} ~r, ll1c: tl\.~\:l pictun.> prnii lc rh i' Ill'\\~..--~ r

cdc:bnn nnd rt leading c~..}.. rar...

tlw ho:-c\

Ut:

thlJlt:

r lmquem

J \

licr tit«.: n~..Yk

.St.lgC partJKT

i-:

mhc:r th.m the dre,~ 'hirt •\:- dw ~hin

1.-.

111\)

treqm:ml\ olrd. the ho~c i5\ 6·c:L

t8 J

10

H nsrrnY

f1 ,, n M o .N r L s

pl:1~ ~,n· th~..·

!'ohn-r 111 Cl'lorur parn.:m a-. rhl'~l.' ncxr n'n illu' lrJt1

ms ~Jcmon .. rr.ne

\\ Hh ho.,ien

. Hl''

llC'\\ CllJ.l '\

;:;,

its Ill'\\

f~nm'-i tJndmg nrlwr btt pb}l'f' "·lit «..:a~crl) 111

th~.· "mg., h~,pmg

sonH.·ttm~-'·

pt,rr J.Kkct CJil rlt~.:

ro JDirl the 'hm' .. \ n odd impr'tl\ c: :..om..:· ol

mnt\' 1mpmb.1blc r ,uti lll."'S. I lt.:rc\ l~ogc} .

rclaxmg

Ill .1

md:mgc

h.md \\ O\ ell '\\Ctnl

of'~,·, rli~ll \\OOit*llS,

hos~

h~JI111} com

fl.'dmg

fi..lrt.tblt• pl.1) ing oppll..,ltP a

Iii."

t \'11 ecd

j:1cket rrnlll

1"))0$

-.oundcd .1

rhc Jml.' ~ughl.md

fht: cnn. cl\atiH~

~nphisticatcd

dc.nlt knell fi,r

men\ ho icq.

lrr r the ~r.n fbnnd mnn tried hi\ bc~t to ~

uppre ... mg 3.11) IIKimation

IL>nk lllvn mou

tm,nrJ t:t"luun or md1' rdualrt\ Then the I

pr.tCllt111 •mir

t

f

tilt• \mcric:m m,lll's br.lill .

.md ~non l'h·q lHn.·' plar du jm1r '"'as a choice bcnH:cn bbck n.n) .md brfl\\ 11 strctdt sud.:s. 'l'tne I .1 t ( ll,1sr cnllcgc~ l'\'Cn inlli.n·cd the

rn Jdt.·r· fJ..,hll)(l fl)r d•spcnstng \\ ith "ocb

.Jit 1gcrhcr

umt: -.om:hcrn Gunpu't''

<.'\ L'll

h td

1{'kh_.,.., fr.ttcrnn tl'"\. but a.;, cc,ol ...1, it

' .1'

lt > ge1 Jrt"' ' d up md bctrc }our ankle".

.tcru.1ll <: 111 H:d '' ennng... ~\h'al\ \ \ u,: JUil 'r ta."'d l dt~r

f '\\ gu

------

~~ etmcemiug the waangof ~ ,_ th sllottJ. Unl.--you can pia, basket ti:.tl• 1M 1~ ¢_ts pOWer forward Keith an Hom cal{ or knee--high •port btl!it u unifor:mlf e:ma~v~: Hbwever. 'Yidt Wlonrd shons finWHng at differen! lu!lghts idlove me ~. their hottt>.al opu-nillgs r:eqwre mote mass th~n just ~rear at the bue a£ thl! bod} for proper b~. Other tlwlloling dre ROd altogether the Ottl) St) mh *mati c ti an nnlck 50Ck with clther-a rib top that can be rolled o\ cr or a loose-fitting pair of hulk) half Mll:b "tth the tops folded down. (ln ~ auk.kts look plttt) tYfish under long uuusers prondiog the trouser featur.e.s a ful1 and casual cut) Vvom here b) oel Co\\tard (oppMtt) and pictured tn dif ft.,ent periodicals tro1n the ~hiT-ties the anklet t.s stiJJ the most chic wa) to tt!:ttn t~ocks and shorts. Unfortunatel): the sports ankl~r "'as ant)ther in a long line of sn lu~b ho!.1e11 asualtu:s

r

flJH \ ,'i l t-:G

T JI r l\1 A

RIGHT.

The Dttkt '1'Vimisor nn•cr missed em opportumty to pnra.de his colors.. or irr rlns Cr.ZSt, /Jis stripes. 1 Irre he shows tht·m t1fwtth pinwalr: cord trousers ami iiJit! ~(It is t)'picallr audacious ll•fndawpanc affairs dirt!ctmg tra.fl1c. OPPOSITL

America'sJmntT ambassador ofmetf's fashion. NeimrJtJ .Marws's own mmswcar cxpen, Dernll Osborn fl'eJJ i11c gr,mdwr l~(tltc Taj Atalwl cannot l!umb/t: this mans dedfcatiOt1 tO pcrs. mal aJormmmr A more spectacular rxample '!flwrmouizing headwrm·, ltosit•t-y. ancl heart we lttli'c }'Vt 10 St'C

-~-~-----~-

----------------- -- --

•

\. , llh II

l

/,1

--

OLE OF COMFORT

he l1r~t shoe'

I

I~

J) R E \ ' I I\ ,; TiH: ~\J !\ N

liul~ nu.tre than ~ole . con tructed from leather or\\ ,od J• ughh sh.lpcd \\ ithoul de:-.ign.Hilm to the right or left foot. tile) \\e:re 'ieettred h1 "trap~ or ~mul.1r f.1'i tcnjng th:u kept: them frllln l~'llling ufT I cathcrpro\cd durable readil) m~ulabk nd m r~ ph .1bl..? than '' •l•Jd. \\ 'l n• n ~hq, ., beea me l:'IH:l(l.sl"d, il!.1thcr\ prom tnenc~.: incrca~oCd b~.:cmst: n \\ u'one Ll Jl 1e (C,, CO\ t..::ring:-. dm t .tJJnwl'd :11 r lOci rcul.t£e \\ h tie ~ffording the fnm m.t\1111\1111 prou•c 11011 .1~:1in~t. rlw clt'llk'tlL~ \\Cil?

~

1hough the <::J rh lll~le ~hodd mg" nd\l'llUtnlll~ u( moden1 n11m. durabilit}

"crP

l?xp,,scd to J'igl)f~ unl 110\\ n 10 all but d

m tltOdl·rn

hoes

j ...

,,m a I-.e, fentun.:

l:

mo\t

.\ \Hl1 madl .and

prnpcrl} ltH;ketlnfrer pair ,,flem her dr~s' siH'e..-. c.1n prnvidL" e\l'r.lf decadt.~ of llne ~ n tee.: lop dr:l\\ cr loot\\ e:1r ha, upp~rs

(tlw top pan of rhe shoe) made from km~ n l nwrc th.m t:\h:ht.:: \h'cb \)ld These hide-. b.n t' :1 fine grain taking a high poli,h. The ~1ut:er ,oft al,u made ot leather. "Ill uld bt> '\velt\Jd"

Lo

the

J'l.'St

of the sht>e \~ drnm . . tmctton d.th::s back t 'the ftfteemh

ccntltf} in \\'c~ten1 Europe .1111J con~i.:-1. c)f .!'it:\\ ing a srrip of leather in Ot.'l\\t~n the t..Jgc of the ,ol~ anJ the turned-in eligc u( the upper. Thi. i·•rocc's pdd~ an dcg:uul) dur.tble '-hl c in ''hich

the ·l)lc c:.1n be remmcd :llld rt'pairl!d repcnrf~dl) '' irh minimal dumagL" to the -.hot>'. uppt;r The snlc~ of the be!'it •d10es ~trl' 'c.:gl't:tble ran ned for long~' it~ .md ~( l In~ .. ~ the1r '-litche' hidden in n -"J.>L'Ciall) rut cllaJlllel <1r0u11d the 'ole. lnsoh:.s :111J lilting~ sh ·mid al'>rJ he con·'lrtKt~d oCic:nher bt·um~c

ab~orb per pi ration

tilt')

WirlhHU

condp(ting he'at altcm mg tht•

font ll. ' brt.'~lthe ~md rht' ~h£'t' 10 !11(Jid Ill tb ..1t:1pc. \\dl -c.rafrcd h~d" are mnde ftum b}Cr> ~f lc:Hilt' r 11.1 ilcd together \\ i 1 h brass pillS. :l sand" ich i 11£ crfcct 1hat prO\ ide..; the grt.>:Ht.'"ll...ll!'hmn

ing suppllrl, and :-rrcugth Fill.lll). lhl· ,!J,tpc of the fir.SL dns' ~boc 'hdtdd folio\\ the ron

it elf -srraigln hl~

till

dw in,ide ;md cun ccl on the 0ut. ide." ith rhe in-.rcp pointing ttmnrJ d1~ bt~

ra1her than the shoe's cl"ntcrlint·. If the .shoe·~ hht (the "~"~od form on \\IHch

crafh~d) rm;

rhc wear~r\ f'oor "ell. thcrt'" ill be little need t(1r dw ritual bre~1kmg

t.ht: lh>t.' \\;ls 111

that •' u'u

all) a~~ocbtcd '' ith rhe 11L'\\"~~ hoc e:-.:pcricnc:c

In hi;-; lif(.cime. a m:ln may wnlk :1~ m.mya~ r I).OOC'rnile.s. ::-\1J\\\ ndt.•r th:lt I cmur-dnJJ \'im:·i, all arti._t of ~pic: il11p\1IT:l1Kl:

:llh.f

:t lll,lSI\.'1' of an~ll011l}:

called

dJl'

t11gineering :-111d a work ol- art." h·s in•pt'.:sible to 'pend wu much ~m

n[ling P•~ i r 0 ( 'hlK''

tlneh ct.lftcd p~rlec:u~

Unl ih· m:m·s 0\\'ll t \H) cuiTl·d \\ l)rk, l' ( .lrt rhe-,e llC'\\

"ith age.

PREVIOUS PAGE:

Adolplzc Jo. feujou in front oflt isfootm:ar stabft-. Gi•·en ltis rxpansc ~frusttJm·nwde shoes, tl(ll tc1 mot troll his collertiou ofrjJing boots, wlroe1•er coit~ed rlu rc:nn ·clotlu·slwrsr'' must ltc1l't' had him it1 m{Hd. _j -~

J

f~lOI a maSt'Crplt!L't! o(

---------

~-

--- --

.lrll Ctct:-.

\\ lllunprm e

---~

STEPS IN TIME

hl· louk pf 11Hxlt·n1 nwn, :-ht,c:-; h b lh\,1\.' b~.Hnl' dh:' Cll[ u( rh\:•

rdation,lJip W

trou~crs

.\l

dw

lllrll

.1

~.Hn·ct

l,f dll' f\\l'IHit:rh

ccntun. . hi~b ... ,IWL'' "nh 'h:trpl) pt,int~.·d hll':\ pcrl~ctl) L"t11llpk· rnt:mcd rh'-"' L"uft1~,. narro''- bonum pcg._\.!'-'d li"IJU.scr. B) llJU~ ~,_rfrL•J

[ftllbCI':'

p:n cd l he

\\'3}

lor iJll"' tlX f 1t\.f ''H'l' \\ i th I[."

l'l llllld .

bulbl>ll!" tt1t:

H:

1'"I 19 IJL'\\'1)

I ibcrarcd

icemen gm l' tlw oxl"urd 'lht'L'

't'l"\

.1 tremcnJou. botl"l. opting f~'l" it' L"UI11ron after '\lOillping
111 ,ufi(xatlng cotllbjtt bu(1t'. \cCL 1rding tl' Equircs Euqdll}lt'

dwP{20thCt'llll11)'•\fl'lls •

Ft1slriou. -The \\'dl \.lrc~~l·d man of the

period L·lL"'GJme a' comt<.1n

(Otbcious rb

posl\\',11'

ltc "a" dorh~..o·."' c~.,,,,,.oou"' ··

\\hen the fll"'pular kni~·kl·rblKhr "ttir dC'maltLkd cqu~lll)

11h)\.k·rn

,mJ lllOI"L t.:'Oillllln-:tblt• f0l1t" L'ar. th\.• high -tup !'>hoc\\ L'nt l he \\'~1)'

(he . . ntT high tlrting ,hin ... "l~g and it\ ~LJli.III}

or

c~..,lbr.

t:I,tidiou:-

plain bottom a., th~ \()\ crcign

naiTP\\:

J'ltJin,bottom trousrrs anJ slim-fitting bendwwdes.

of.1ll rnm,~r silll('lucne'. \\'irh 'uch dtminu t i\~ dim~nst~ms .shcn th· 111g tht: clllkiL' ,111)'! hing lc.•·,~ ~p.trtal1 [h:tJ1 a p~1i I" I l(dliSl''

[lll'd

__j

i111pe~

n.tlh ·dim hcnchm~klc" ''uuki L·on:--tillliL' .s!lrtorial ~lltCJdL·. Bct'\h'Cn

rhc

1'\\P \\tlrld

\\~tr......1 ridnl

ol m~tlc Ct~hinn' \\c.l~ unk·~1,hcJ a.s io,lL\\car of tndn} ·~ ('l..t'='l\- ,lhK' ltlt)t..k:ls "ere llrsL (:rc~Hcd l~'r indi,·id

1\tcppcd h) the IDil:fn)nt -1-hc m~tjorit)

\\J\'l'

.

U3l cll':tl'Illcl"'l !J, unC' llf BriL•1i11\ u\\ 11 custulll "hn~..·m:1kcr:;J lmt as th~..· l:ngl[sh ~

e i.1bli h~d the bt'tlchrll:H k lor t;ult.m.?d nwn':o, l~t,hillll during dtc

"·l\ ik Ruw :1nis:.1rb

and 3d' Lt)tldnn\ \\t·~r lnd cobbk'r:" scr the -.r:m~.tlrlb l~u· hi':.!h-das." 1~'01\\'t.:~tr lh ll)2l), o.;hoL' manui~.Klt1rcr~ and r~?taikrs .lgrL-eJ that the \\a\ to dl ·hoe-. \\as thruugh "st\ k·agc rather th.llllltilcn~\? .. Thi" lluol\'st-l'lll rncrioJ ~

~·

ll).!l)s

I

...

,

t..:

....:.,.

uf men\ td.-.hit'n produced rhc half brogue oxl~)rd. the ~·;lp we blucher. the pbln

rlw \\ mg

tip bud....kin. the ~orwcgian

shp on . .an~L.n.1rict} CCilttlll

l'r~a~u.1l" iiJr . . pori U

f~\\ mar~· t'lllfiL''i

up

mnnk fr,·•nL

dw L"nrTc:-plll h.~L'Il t ... Ill k'. rhc "hi fl' bulk. tlw \\'t:t:ju n

~p~l·t.llur1
l1t ter h;llrL)r the

dw dns,jc i('ltHWC,ll' illllllibu~.likt: 111l.'ll.!' I~I~IJit>ll i11 ~Ctl ... ' I.I"ihil1Jl:tblc male l( ot\\C,tr enn~umcred a ~eric: uf l1ctl Htr~ tl!ld Lk:nd L'lllk

COillTibmed

t•ral
I.Kc

H>t''

[l)

In the fitll of l
Ill'\\

head

tel-rue

"f;uiJ I onk" Thi'

Ct 11ltrlhxl bur m.I~tt.'rlill rctrtil promotion prop~.')~"'d t h~n the cothlliL'I'IIlg . \ ml'J'ic.ul "ar hero

rfi.: .. t the

til'\\

nt.lll

\\urlJ PrdL:r b} \\l.':umg bold"-r pmp~ )niom:d :111d rnl~lfl'LI ckllhl''· ~:nurall}.

nr"ler In kL:cp 111 o;tep.J1Wn'...I~)C•t'h.':tr h~cl

!'I•

"'t~p up in

btHh

111

--n1le :111ll design. I rnm th~,•tt thruug.h

the IJlter hnlr uf rhc I9~l.l~. tlw \me1·i~.111 fit hi~m plelw ,,(tell '':1lkc"l .1n.1und in ~tr.tlgiH lt.mging.

n.uura1 --houldcr r..uir'i .llldltlrl'd b) gunboat izc brogue.-.'' ith hL'm d) dcL:tiled "ing tip~

\ rh~..· \ etcran \ •~it.c:d ltii'Opt• tht'} lwgan 1.1t ing tWtli.: uf the halLll 1 ''· lnht: "n,lunmar·· It ~>k I hi-. ugln finmg ,jlhuw..:nr ulnlfJ.(,l.I.'d sh:lrpl~ "rth tht: ..hlp..dc ,. ~..1 k. un t'

\1.tdi'>~..m \H!llllt" l)\c'l" rht.• JW\t rhirn r1r)' ~l"ar~ \mL-"f"icm men h ~:mthuJ flu'tJtllll \ll 1 ~."lot hrng .mel lunl'' car d~~rgnr:d tD makt· dh.: male b1Jd\ .md ((,t t :1pp~a.r 11 11 , nl rn lltr b u ll.'.lllcr \\ 1th ll'- lo\\ er 'amp ptlUllrl·r tm and ._IJppcrltl e pl.uh1nn tht l.gfu \ 1gl t lul1;11 ~..r.t11t'd 'hoc \\ilS the lugic1l (tllldu .. ton hJ tlw L'ra\ n.HTO\\ k~gt"d lmnl m \:( tunulth· 11 J 12'ight ie . \\hen C.,H"rgi >. \nn.mi 1111n1 lu('cd t,,, fulll'r h.luch "'Lilts. dulm~n .. l\h' dt: 1~0 btgtll u rl~\ t:-ort rln·l.trgt>r pr\f'l..lrti,m~ ~ fit fort•be~u·~ tl1e ''dt cnn truct~d \ngl(• \u L rh:.an dtt"' '-hoc \\ hilr.:- fhc 'lxtJes Pc.tnld l{l'\olrrtion sp.mn("d .t plcth•nltl ~rt: ltl\ln c ptLI.lll f r Lho'c o)ll('l.-mr" of pop "·ulnrn.: ki r ch. ud IL r 1h.m l'icrr~ ( ardin \-blum h1L: hf m uf lt)(>t-\ ,, htrh

ll)U flRIS'\1"<•

fiH

AI-\"

1

'l't\cd

.1

tlh_'

lll'pirati,m (or (;,•n X\ "p1lgnrn tue dunk~r' thn~t.: )c.u·, .1ud

\h'rc a '' .1 relanJ nf malt· ll1t1l\\l!.11.

"lllW

~..i'-·~•gn llmH:' er \\ rth r he &m ning o( the

(itll~ ir:,cJftrcaJingorl t:1milr,lrh.'ll':lUl. roiiO\\ingdo d~ llllht:

d1l

nt t l\\UU~

He\\ Ct: mun

h .UH

nult

lc.:J'"
ln\\cd nr-.,tom .. h,'lc~ crl'.llcd rn I d\\,trdi.m Lngl.md more fine men ... 'h'l't' wd.t\ ~dl t:"b... tcJlh proportioned. hand

la'\tl'l.l f~mt\\C:lr than

at nn~ wne 'incc thl· rrm.:lnmn ll'pplmg '1

tit.:

COLOR

hile black drc'~ .. hf,rs

h.th'

ah' np been con .. iderc~.l de rigueur f~H J.:~rk drv•'} 'uumg:-.

dark bn''' n 0n~·r~ equal re(incnwnt. ifrh'l superior ~qle Regardlt·:-.~ of thc1r lthl ·r. biJd. Jrt: " ,hn1.> "ill ah\.lp la(k the amiqucd brm\ n\ dc~·p patina :md changing lu!!hltgln-.: lu\1 .1 ....ttl\

.trtl

de placed on a poli .. hcd mahc lg:tll} rahlcrtlp imm~dmt.:h acquire' an cxp~n r\ t: :lUfJ. ll)p <.pulm

bnJ\\ nlearlwr slwcs invc:-l .111 (abric~" nh .111 rm4mgiblt• nchne~:ln £936. the k:.ulwr .1m il]uing pnJCL'"' "a.. final I) refined hl rhe ('lHnt "hen. n 'PLU rt::d

acceptano; of rhc- ~..-brk bro\\ 11 'hlll'

r'-'r drc'')

\\Ur.ted

\H'ar

I krc

j,

the ednnr"

r~a~.1~r\ qu~.·r) fmm ~~ 193(1 ,\p}'tlrd .\rts m.1g~1zinl.' on thl! cm-rt.:cm~~~ of'{

I

IC:'JXHl'L h

l)rdm.nmg ht•'-'"n

~hoes \\it h 1111\} .. uits:

D II.\ R :\ l R. E.; It was CtlSftJIJlal'}' rears ag(.) hl ll'ear 0111}' blLick shoes witlr &1tlnrk blur swt. 111 n:UI1t }'t'ars thrrc /tasl1ecn

tl

daidcd trmd ltHI'clrJ browns/roes, tl )f tl:i' /ig/ll (at1, brll tJr

dm·k an rique brow11 slmd.:. Siuct' tlrcsc tire' aJUJl15( JS cwrk as apair ~fblack shoe.£. their aclaptiOtzJor u•c:ur with dczrk blue suits bl•ccWil. quite gt:n~rai. At tlu prest'mtimt.', dark broll'll shoes an.· co11sidc.red torratmrd satijuttOI)'.for wear with a dt1rk blue suir. U!!ht mn slroes tlri' uot nmsMercd appropriate. ~

J

---- ---------

I C) I

f OOT DI C:(H C M

PlJTTING 1.l)U R BEST FOL'T FOR\\1;\RD

THE OXFORD

HOE Thel)'Jord :-;h(\l'd~:.·ri'~-' (rom the O);L)llian . .l h.,lrbllOt with ,,de

lrb th:n lln;r gamed popularity ar l)xfc,rd Lnih~r:-iry in 18l10. The ">tdc slit ~ollll dcH·loped

mto J sH3' beL· rh.u C\enntalh... m(wed roth~.:' lll~tcnr .b . . tlt~J~m~ bc!!:.lll ltJ rebd a~i:t1 ~11!1st kncc ~ high .... '""

19 3

.md .111klugh tH •t 'rriLtl} t'lxm.II W\\ n "~.1r Dc:-igncd tl) nwl:!t the ~...k·man~...{ ll.>r .1 nlllrc ,n lis h. Iightcr wctgln shoe t h<111 rhe full brogue nxfllf\.1 ~hoc. rlti, oxford \\ .1-. l'llC of rhc c.1rl) :;t) ll!...' ro t:1kc rhc.· pi
Foor

I he 11.: c r.tp't\ punched hole. ar~.:· smncLimc!- rq>l.lc~.:·d br t\\l'

natTl>W

n1und tJr hghrl} :-.quare plain roc or" i1h a 111\.'dallion dt:coratit)Jl. it nt:" \,,trdrub · 1 hi-. tu.llll>f th~ t~l~

tll\\

rm'" of srirch111g \\ nh a

j,

the ~rJ.plc l)( m ~lll }' hu'-t

n .:-hoe\ :-111~1n lin~ i~ t:>nll
CL'tltt::r

pl>r-

that J0111" rhc frorn: with th~.:' hc~.:-1. a l~.uurc oralll igh[\h?ighr ·dwcs ;}~ l)pposcd (t)

the '"1u..Irc \\,ll"t u...cd fur more . . rout type:- :-uch .b the Illl'nk or '\.orwcgtan.

D C:GOIHJ.\1

---

--

-

-

D.-\.rs~JNG

nu: ;\I' N

., .... . *"- •

, o· . .. • •.. u "

.•

•

'

... •

TH E \Af I N G- TIP B R 0 G U E Tlw lnw~h~ekd 1'lxtord rrimmcd "ith perlorauon-t stitdl

ing . ~nd pinki1 1brs knnwn a~ rlw brogue comes from I rei and and the ~coni. h llrghbnds t~enntrie a~n. ir haJ nu hcd and ''•b made n( lhick. untanned deer hide'' irh the ·fl:rr mrnct 111e \hJrJ ~

'"brogue.. en me~ t"i·om rhc l~~lcl iC" brJg. which mcanr ttl pu~h nr~ &m lr.hrou~h. a. . wa.-. dnnc in d1c ~titch ing oflcadk·r. ~ 1odenl brogues h~l\ 0n't borrowed much m1.rre Lhan the name from rhe ancient st)le

exccpr tor rh~ pum::hjng" rhm art:: known a~ broguing!l. The imitation punching~ thar dt.,.-or:nt: rodm 'bn >gtiL'S once" ere acmal hole-. or sl.1:-hing~ m:lde to let water L:kun out ulth~-..c carh o. t ~

~

ti~h shoe....,, whkh werL' ot1en worn" hile lording a !'ffcam or cra-:-.:ing 111<1fS.hy l.md

The Lradirional wing-tinr dre...;s :-:hue i!' ~ligluk lc~s- h1rmal dum the phun nr dcL·Lmut,j ~

~

~

(.lp-tqc: modd. lt.s ~omplcte broguing pt\lduce~ ~1 ~lighrl} bulkier. lc_.. , ~let"'k .appt•aranct.·

larger propnrti•Jns alk1w lor

:t

.md it"

nwrc h~ll'lllti'niou' match "nh h~1' icr £l•xrun.:d !abnc.; :.uch a..

lln111lt'l.s. l.·ht.:\"kl[.<\. or t\' c~d "· The wing tip take~ i [~ 11:lll1l'

rn.

llll

I

r. . [I. II? l"ap ~lmp~:d ltkc tlnr spread

wing" al- ~bird, pnil1rcd in rht..· cc:1ltc:r and ~xtcnding hl\\ard the rear \\ilh hcmrh perJun:nt>d ~ idC'

-..ca 111.:-.

-----~

~

-------

--~

19)

Fo<'>T DliCORU.\1

Tf r E BLUCHER \vhen Pnt~5ian general Cebhard Lcbcrccht 'on Bli.i.cher. nne o( N:tpoleon 's more formrdnblc oppon•:nL'. Llccidcd that hi~ troop\ n~cdcd hL·nct· -.,hoes than the low-cur one~ the\

\\Ore

with gaiter'. h~ commi,~ion~d :1 boot" ll h s1de pieces lapped oYer the fronr. They had a

I,JO~c inner edge ... and

lacing aero'S the wnuue. \ Vhcthcr or not tl11, l(lotwcar '-gave his inlanrn men f.:t j

.m ad,amage j, debatable. But Bliichcr'.s wdl-shod force,... did help \Vdlington rr::tmplc the Frcnrh at \ \aterloo

Success beget~ imitation.
blucher C\Ohed into a tn•nd) sporting and hunting 'hoc, bm it tll') thar ir dcbut~d a .t

IO\\

\\'llSil't

until the turn

I8')Ch.

the

or l h~ ccn-

.)hoe ror toWil :lfl~lirs. Distingui~hcd rrom t:ilrlicr shm·s h) dw for~

\\urd C.XlCJl'lJOJl of it\ {ILI
j,

:1

wnguc

lilt'

in

a h~1sic llHidd for town . .SpOrtS. nJh.l Jeisur~ .shlll'"

(lllC

piece

or OXI~H.J.

height BcGmsc at ~ide t;traps lend a sltghd} hcm'ier :tppl:ar:mcc l han ~.:he cln.;ed dtroat bee-up.

rhc blucher i a h:p ckm n in drc -.,i11ess from 1hr oxford. ~len\\ ir.:h higher in,.nk·' tend ro invor its npcn·thro~u from fitst•.:ning. "hich permits more gh·c. ewer rhc in~rcp rlwn ''it h tlw clo~er­ fitting bal·tj pc (shan for lhlmornl. the (~u?cn· cnsrlt' in ;)codand) oxford.

---

---~--------

___ j

r -

D.Rt

lNf;

l HI

M ... l'i'

--

THE DR rs s

s L l P- ON

-~---

--

Back'' hr·n :1 m:111\ choict• ofdothl'' wa:. dictmrd

rn dt~l!t'tC.:' of ..

fnrmal i l). p~iri ng a ,( i p nn shoc'' i 1h d res.:- t"kH he:-" ould h:l\ t' bu.·n fru\\ n~d upon .t'- n t:-tu\ p.t .. Hut wilh current mt:n·-. C1~hion (ul'leJ b) comcnience :md comfi~n-. enjoy~ an equal footing \\'irh rlh.·lan?~ up for

lht•

l•p nn

ntn\..td.t~ "J

r.ulortxi bu~i11ess dot·he'.

ThL: imroductil'll of the low~r cu1. li~hnH?Jght lraltan f~)O£\\e~tr 111 rht: mid t1fttt: h.1 . . "-' ._

tcncd tllL·Iace-up·s ~lidc from sn, lc Stlpr~man~ The l'l:llnng b, d1e American bu-.ine :-,man lihl" r ~

l..

..

n:nural -.lh)ulder .;uit' with hbck \\'e ejun' in rhe ~.:i:xric' p1r'agcd the gdt bm:·kll'd l,ucn loafer'!' infiiLrarion

()r

\Vall 5rreer\: btl:ll"l!n"~mn in the C\cntie' In the t.'ightt("' tlw '''-k ...

ur dubiou~ ubiqmt} t\ (a.s:-.cllo:l r~r of :111\. shal)e. d~:-ign. color\\ a~ oneln:~lh U cnsuaf.,.IHw .lTl\.i r h~rchx~ ' ..

rc\caling lo\\ v~mp ~lip~on rl!nchcd :1 kind

llr

11c' t?r i11 ten'-kd f\ 1r d0nning under rhe ClJ (frd '~l>hriety uf lhc dnrk: n:n} or gm} \\ l: r'"h.:d llln\ ('\ l'!l" t

(~rtain ·dip, on!'

(:111

.St:.lnd ~idl· h\ -IJdl' wid1 the n·nic:tl hu.sim·--~ brogut~ in the :rtnkk pro t '
•

pri~t) dt•panmt.•tn. Th~.s(._' h} brld~ nrc us11a1l) appo111ted '' irh the tnllo" mg lan• up l&l..e (c-nrurc~: \\L'It .sc,lcd brHTom." l~'r bcrrcr fo11t :-'-:ak· and -:tamre. drc"'~· bl:"pok~.: m-.pJr'-"ti \J111p de ign~. and 1"1\ l.'rall dccor:n j, e under .. tat~nll't1l

Fo oT [;)f: C 0 R l ,\1

.t•..a••••.. . .. . •

....

•

•• ,

-

•• • •

.

=- ,.. I .. • • '

,

THE ~.,.~IDE-GUSSET 5HOE j. ~p:11kl'" Ilall. hn•'lt makL·r to ~L·cn

muLh of ht' Iii~·

to

dc-.igning l~)t..'l(\\'Car rh~11

t~ll:l'n· urging he imented a

."lttlc?

W
with ill"Crl~

e~t') m pur

\.tll

\1CL111·in.

and t.the oil

or clastic Elbrk

011

lt1 1g3~. ~11

~

Olh.'

of the ()uccn\ ladiD ~

i.l'

"the comfon

t)( Ill\ I

dll.'

\.·irhl'r 'ide. ~lad~ \\irh

"itrt·tch.lbk· gore.'~ nf rubberized cloth 1hat prc,~,.•mcd a trim!) firred ankle. his feminine? de crib ·db,

~,.lc,nrcd

bch)l

life." As he de, doped this

\\~b llC\\

bmnch of ~hocmakmg lhc "t} lc spread to. \mcrk:t. bel'Oillillg known as the ''l:ongrC:\:' g.tircr.. 01' .. Ho"ton b lOt.

ft,Lb) rhl' d.tstJc sided men\ ,he·~ i~ gl'lh:!r.lll) coni"ined

111

the r~lr~?Ci\.·d \\c1rld of thL'

l.1.t,wm ltoL· aficiomtdo r\ Ion grime chnmpion uf 1hi' 1r.lllit iom1ll) lw"pnkt.· St) lc ,lr .,h0~.1~.1illg. 1h{' f~1nnc.: r dean nf l

nglio;;h 4\hn~rnakutg t ;e<'rgc l :l(':rn·rle} I~>' cd d1is model. hcG.Ili'C hc.? tell

IU'

u dIL~r

"ft.·. .tgn produced a bt•trer Fining -;lip-on. '" li'itumillg dte cxpo. . ed rb~tic .side gus:-;\::1~ with "mall lt'.ltlter panel' r one \\:1} tl iurrhcr relining it. I ur thm...: i11 the kno\\ ~ulLll~H'lttrl:lle ClltlUglt tu ':lmH; upon .1 gtl\,d p:ur. dtc Sldt?-gu"~t't ~lip .. on is~~ \Cr}' .sl) Iish ~t1lutiun tt"' the busincs~ siHK'

.:unundnun nf comfort \CJ'll' corre~ttlc.:"'s

-------

-

From t"r or(einal prim ad· tf"Tia· t1m·e monkfnmt slrnes shL'Il'll /zen; rl!a~ml}' madt' bJ' ufimrous Ltmtftm bookmaker, arefrom l~fi to ,.(~lu a bntwu Cfl[{shot~ a ITl'Ct'Sed f"a!{slroc, (Uicl a pigt..kiu slror...

DB;tH i Nt>

THE AlAN

TH 11 ~ 10 N K- 5TRA P

S H 0 F. U11c uf dt~ fc\\

anjd~s

{'f app.1rd to t.•:trn ir~ n.tmt. hon

~...·~ tl}. d1t.• mcll! k · frun t ~hnc W!l~ lKtuall y pn trt' rnl~d after :1 q pe of fi-,on\ cnr \\lu·n fi1r u·ut ttrh'" an

run 'PL~n Jl 111011~l~tc ri~s. Lcgl'lh:l h~JS II dm t Ihe sn k· t'irigi n::n~d .am~mg !tin r' Ill 1he lt.Jit.lfl \ lp, Ill

thl:' fi!"rt.'t'tll"h

CCIHLIJY .\ \isit· ill~ ; t.

r>f the tnt.mks· sh('""" rhat he was

I 1t~lbl1 '"-

hrother\\a~ . . upf:lll~t-dh

:-.o imJ:trc-.,cd h\ the.,tmJ)It(ll\ pa1r lit:.· wok rhcm b:t(k ll.' Lngl.md ''hl:!t' l

fl.

prL''~Iltl:ll \\'Hh :t

•

tht: !;11• lc \\a> r~adik• adl n1rt.·d. r The modern mot1~ - l-ronr modd i.

:1

lm\ fitting strapped hu~ \\Hh .m upper l"vm

posed of rhn.'C ~~~Lhe.r pitxt~.' . t\ bro:h.l ;;rr~lp .tLnJ'' the in~h.'P [n_,lCJlc; du\mJ!h .1 5.llldlc hud-.lt: (lll dw sh(ll:, our,idt.: The nwnk-,trap·, tongu~ i~ broade-r than 1hn~~ w-ed m mo"t Jon h 1e' \\hen· a d(lSl'r fir is dl'_ ,irahlc. tlw~ ennblin~ .1 more l-om1on ..lble fit around ·d w .1nkiL" rhJn till.~ ~

l) pic:tl bel~ - up .shoe.

I1c, ntCL'' ~tppreciare the tnon k\ 'ltpcrb1) propo11illlcd a:; "ell as it' irH~o:rmcdiate (urmalit). t"l'gi,t~.;•ring 'nma:\\In~rt' lao.:' up . . hlk'. rs:.L'11li;_tll) pl:till

bb(k c1lf tn bn,,, 11

rt'\llr!'cd

ll)L',

c:1IC

-..mttrtllC"' .md ~at1bt:at p.m

bt>t\\tX'n

'du rh:u tll a slip un .UtJ J

the tll(ll1k tlliJdd \.·:tn la.H1dl~ 't..ltne bnlguing. tfdl'sir~J IJ(lf11 dlf' Jlll)tJk '!>

e~.·onomirnll} eJpqut.~m fr'Om ~n.tblc'

It

to ~r-:t.:r~

In Ih' t:'t-l) n a d i' cr.!\e ran0'-"'C f Lrl"lll ..;e r.. (l

-

~ -

--

~---

-

ED r

L.

ttc

\\ 1thni m, methmg <..Hh~·r dun poli"iht."d kmhcr \)L'-·urrcd

r

......

I Hn.ltchc

Inn~

.1t

H . .TE .

lr ...

Jcncr.tlh c )n..xdcJ rkn tlw flr~t L.. \ _'tghring ll( m.tlt' ("\tl\'11ll

TH

"hui11g the

192-4 l ntcn1atinn.1l

Lon~ I l.mJ\ ~ k:-h..l l\\ brook l~LlUil rn Club. -1 here. 3~tndc rh~ ,·ega I (t?cL \J( the

'If \~a.lt!-' \mcri~m

''Clt:I) \\.1

h , t:n'(; mblc IIJiJu~h !he l\('l\c.."r6Jn

rrc.ncd h'

t()

the first ll.lllllcl

'Lilt •..111d

brrmn bllck..,kin

[lc ~ 'trtorial pn)dl\ 1ncs ''ere aln::ad\ legend on bu[h

~J \ t"rh~ \tl,mtK t:1 . . hton ob~cTh'r' \' t:n.: agh.1'f ar hi, ..;upptLcd brc..h·h . oC good rasrt'

p "~rtrng

'ul'dc "a' then termed) O\:I~Jl-d' \\'tth ~1 -;un. th..'l les""C\ t\ Jc 'CO !It''- 11lc.J the l~n nn..·\ J~~hion rt'
calf

111

(.1 ..

or

._

•

J

Ill j.-

tllll quc'llll ned the ,fuJQ. 1:,,hion pedigrcL' "tdr..''-tcppmg rhcm bt.·c~w!-c oi rhcir l~e1r rhaL o;nch la(klu ...

l:f

tcR'~t'' ear . .~ppt:·artJd J.diGllt' and unm~nlj. l)ther" (~tiled rhem .. brorhcl-crccpcrs ··

199

FooT Dr coR..uM

i fu t:ulu f lUnd t ht; r\ , t

Gil( 'hoc

hJO

r.n.ht al ill .m~ t1

b.ro\\ n ~Jl1Liung Jl "--nul \'at

mnt 10 ll)

In "l tn cod I h.:.·nJt ritll t .. on ti L

cnrrl·ct dntlte' tn

\\L1I '' nh

I hmt:\CJ fit.,hlon ;ui·nh-r...,

thun

i1 'pu.oJ

J

the ucdc ... u nmt'lilatd\ .1h It :ltlgh n

\\ nsn I tum! ~1lmo._ t a dt'l"cld~.. I.Ut>! LI1Jt th lntt) t1u.lll) '-J\\ the ),~fn \\ htn rhL '\ttt•dl.! c;h,,l fa.;.h ~

aon fin,tl1} did lur C't.tll"ptCUOll

cnp we un

rrnhd m

H

plenttuJt ttl\\ 11

·rf nHt'li faq, I~ ,r hu ..ntt , p

unmg mbht·r oled b]u, ht.:r> f~;r rhi? countY) and ml J~· h1!!h "' C'} det Ill.' mr~dcJ, ~~)r '-pt 'purt~\~ar

rhl bJ\)\\ n bu {. ktn .il11.. t h.,1d !\0 inflltnth d f ngf1 h B} llJP

:-p~) n i ng circle~ t hJt Ol \\ l:.'IJ

dn: "'t'ti

lkir t:on,idcred hi.-.. \' ardmbc nun

Hrou·nsueJe or bttchkiu shoes ,,m b,· wow ,111 }'l'ar rorwJ

pi etc "idmur ..u k·a.. t um: p.m l )n

i

du~

oppo:-.n-e .. horc

dll'

'L 'IIt.'n

"pon sml'll .n \ kad( ''' brd ,1

Piping Rock clllllllf~ Club!- on L<)ng j,land \\ere '\.) cnamor~.J of the

bill\\ ll l\\t.'c.!d

.tnd

J.ld Ct nd

gr:n ·tl:mnd- tron,cr cnmbi11ati•m that he \\ho .. rc~1lh bdcml;!ed.. itn.1n.1hh tlmslwJ nlf due;

~

~

~

~

e.n-.cmblc "it h .1 p.tlr l,f thrIll'\\ buck--kin shoddin~s \ VhiiL· dti!' timck·,, '} ml:h.'>lvf .tt'i~h..Kratic Britt·dt m,tc mak~ am tlung \\l'~rn \\llh n ;lppear mon: st)'lish, rhc brown ~lh.:'dc ~h''L' ~tiM) h.1ppen:-. to he suitnhle fur :til 'l:·l"<\Jl'l pt·ri~·~tl, .sh.tded f<')r 1ight L"nlored 'Pr111g doth i ng, nnd rich i 11 nt.H -.o hm~ r\?fnll·mrnl lrw" IllH. t \h:igln \\Or't"ed:- ~mel llnnnd .. ( )1Kt.' .;mitn.·n. matn afi~.·i\'JHldo~ hmr .1 tlJtt..th time tt.•turmn~ h. thL •

t,..

I

,:; hi 11 \' ~ Ll r i~Ke:-> n f \-(,11\ c n t illnal mn lc I~ •lll" c:t r '

--

-

--

,!OJ FOOT' D r: c I'll( lJ.\t

THE CROCODILE SHOE The ilrsr croc-udile k•ath0r

shoe l~'r men \\41S mrroducl.'d in £he :spring o( 19~" one

Df I ondon's

L()tlrll''>!

o(

b~·rrcr knQwn boOl m;1ker'. It nll'r ''it h

in tJnt Mtcc~ umon~ '' hu adontcd ... wdl-drc.:-:!'CJ [ngli~hmcn. 'r tt

.

for re~on .md mfonnnl t~Jwn \\ear ~ larn \m
I n~land br~Juglu rhe hoe back hume tu in.Higuratc rhc E1ll 'fashion l.':lsPn ~

l ikc.- the bro'' n buck kin ho(\ Lf• )codilt.: k·arhcr in a dark hmtC} wnc .ltl(lrd_, \Cr~4ujlit:) \\ ltethL·r in :1 lllunk "lr..tp mudd tell· rl1e \\Cekcnd, pl.1in cap

or tJ,..,cl lu::tler

lcrr

t::r1 KocHie ho~.· oft~n..

r:tn: opporllllllt)

t•)C I.Kc~up ltH'lO\\

11.

rlw nin~r~L·nth hole. the sJu:dlw,c:d~.:d

tlw norm:1lly nwt 1r, shl)d ..,,iplt i~ t i.::lll.: .1

t\J Cll!''CL

l1imsel( it1 S) bnriLIL ..,hccn.

---- --

DRl"SSTNG

Tflf

I

M.A.-.:

T H E N 0 R \ V E G IAN Hy th~ lllid t hirtie . \\•cll-dre.!>'~d \meric::tn!- h:1d adoptt:d inspired ... huc.s.

J

-.l,p-01111loccasill

\ll"

\Vl''t'jllll

nnll n lace -up mcxiel \\ith moccn in fr,,m '-.1JieJ tht

Nurwcgi:m. I )t"fingui~hcd l·w its snl~t-~t"l'L' dc~ign. the i"orweuian fearurc'i r ~

t'\\ o lctrure

~

~

.1

\crnc.ll h.md r.,lJti"h

do\\'n the (t:nrcr ofit!i toe~ \Viti! hc:l\~y lcmlh·'r upptt'" and thick coumr~ sole . the ru!;_gt'lf :O....:onH· gia11 \\'as buil r (or dw ourdoor~. · r~ ,d,l), the n1l st famou!' pttnre) or of cl1c '\:unH·gi:m qrtaet "hnc I" the 1-rL'lKh !'hvcm·ah:r J ~ ~ \\'c$LOtl. \Vhen the broadcr-.shonJder:cd dl1rhing ni the Lnc L.'tghue~

II r.. . r clllghr hL)Id. \\ t'.'lon . 's black scmi-cha,:-c lac.:c-up "a' one of tht? fe'' qua hi} hnr .. capable oi

..

bala 11ci ng rhc fttllcr-:\calcJ l~1~h ion~.

T H E S L £ P - 0 N ~~ 0 C C :\ S I N

\\'he 11 (i~h were lc'~ rh:u1 tOrthcommg

on' t>gt:IJJ fi~h

10 ~rman "ould pass the timL' b) :-litchitlg tngcther pc·a~am ~hoes. nme of rh~,l ~t'nh"gl.lll .. -

"t'n: expurtl..'d rorsah.:

lO

Great Brit.lin .•wd dunng rhL'

1')30S \menC:lfi!'

wunng london dJ'

((1\cr<:'d rh~ Osk' impmT-<1 Gl='ll:ll ~li~"' t'll1 with a moccl~m -s r~,l~ fllmt - tr~1ngcl~~ tt·w;l~ dw ~l'rwegi:111 :md mn the Indian "h(1gaH· tl11.:: nh ~C.1'1H II"' b1gho'"'

:1~ a ca ... u~l fn~hinn. Pr\.'vJ{lllSI}. thc- Indian moo::a ...m :lppcarL"d mo,lh a' soli_, .,fed L."":unp ~~~Ot'\\ eo~r 11r a bc:1dcli bedroom slipper. ='on\ l'ginn dt.?signct-.. w.:rc rhe fir't rn cop\ the

":\,Jtl\ ~

1\menc.m,

idea oi itherting a plug l)l'll·atlwr L(l con:r the l~1rcp.trtof the t1mt and then h.md ntd11ng tt hJ a

Cl)Jllblnation .sole :md uppL'r.

--

-

.203 f tJOT

D L\

\\'uh rhc hdp of rhc.loc:1l l~i~hing indttstn.

dl t'

ORU,\1

~o nvcgi:Jn-. began producing lc1surc

"Iipper th.u turned up at ;man Continental re~ons .md sekcn:d Curopc.111 cn1c~ \ ,..,lli11g \m~rican manuC1crur~n- brouglu them humt: and rc adapted the ungm,ll \ llll.'ncan lnd1an

nncnttOil I Ierc\ a man\\ ho rare!; srood on cercmon). the'' ell-heeled Jin11n'

'-,tC\\·an.

luafing

ahour 111 J p.1ir of\\ ccjun'. Jn the

r111d thiniei;, the G. I I Jh,s com-

p<1m rt.'giStcrcd the name -\\ eejun." "hich. nlc1ng "ath at.'\ mtKGl in roe and diamc lJKI cutout pmtcrn.

6cc.unc one of the mo"t n.xognized models of this popular ne\\ genre. rtl,o km1'' n .1~ penn) lu.1l~... rs.

lnm.tll} \\urn n

.Jii.ummcr~hoe in ;md amund thc

homr thl' \\eejun ~l} lc ~lap on b~c.1mc the }c,tr round '' orkhlH-..c of many

1Jh:n's

•A•• fiTq I ~

· ·· · · ~·

a

r;t,ual :-.ito!..'

\\drdrl'llx- lcJd~l} bolrr maker... I :\I. \\{:-_'-H1ll and

John I obb produce rcnJmon" lh,'lt cnmt? a~ cln.sc h.l pL'ntlh.:' from ht:.1\ en .. ~ po. tble

I

J

-

DRI ,_:. f Nu

HH

~\1"

..

-nff~•I..HWCar h:h in~pir~d lllUll} ufl:,llPOP,; hO\\L'\Cr, i1 j.,

P n.'~L'nt~;.·d hl're in rr'

nri~inal fimll . the m ~· ~

l'\I d~t

.mkle buot. l )ri~malh-. brou~ln tnt he \\ t_,_,, !"rom lndin ~

b\ Lhc HriLish I

l~lJ·.

~

Lhcv dubbed i1 '\·hukka." :1r1cr the I

pl:l) illf!, pcrilid in pulo. l )ftl'll unllul.·d :111d fiucd "irh a Je.nh~r ur rubber .. ulc. thi' fidd ~hnl' c.111 ir\:'qth.:ntl)'

bl· fonnd ens("t il1Ccd undt.~r a p.1ir L,( llm11lt:'l' or ~ord~. in either ~1 .slllol'lth tnn calfskin or a n'''e1 :-.h.1dc

l}r

"uedc. l(irrcd out in 1} rolcan ('hapL':Hr. ~Cl)tti~h ~her land ~port coat. and [ngli ... h llll)k~..,kin trnn~cr!'. rhi,

t:btditlh• aitircd roiT rl!:lllinn~ the

~..":hukka\ lllll' rll
1ionnl rankin~. '-'

I

-~--

_J

L----

~ur

)f Jll"'bdtn thl·

l~mou ... <...Jurcrlo
"irh :1 btt

l,,- gd~..lcd ~

hoP•e re~~1li:1 '

nHilillltL''

to

n.: '"lll.1t~ ~h k \\ h~thcr in bn..1wn leathl'r forth~..· (\.'~llh'PQiiran'~ g.rar thn11d~ ''r black ... u~..·dc \\lth Jug '-Ole f~lr tTil: drm ll£0" ll urbanite. tilt' (;lKCi Joal~·r I' ,UJI Clllt' 1..1l:th1..· ~l"'l(tt'Sl. llll)~[ ~..·um

tl.•rr.L1bk· c.t~>uaJ, in t~r tlut of W\\ 11 ]n 1<)66 rhe I h.m~c •Jf L~ucn ,,hu:h h.t. 'Pd\\lh.:-d more imir..1ril'th ttl''

.

"''H~Ir ... lt:llldcdh rc\ j,·~..·d intcn.·,t in th~..·ir

[h,m

(anh.ltt!-

~liJ1 -
:mr other :'l') lc l\( mak· l~'lt)r\\l.'JI". H) rh~..· carl) :\~\t'll

\\,til 'n·eet imeqmenl banker~ rook h"l appl,illling tht.'ir Cl'rporare ch.1Jk ~tnpc" "ith Titrn

bull & \:-...L'r 'Pf""·ll1 (t,II.u~. llcnne' f~._)ur-in h:md~ 111d

-

JQ~

l;ucCI k~~uhcr

..,Jip on'. \ L" IT i"~..·w tn~liL' ~~WL' dl'l,tgn.; '\lit'\ iH? l he ug:li'IL'~ or high l:tshfl'll. I.'IUt llll"'l!'L' t h:it1 thin\ ) l'Jr~ l:ltl'r. ( ~tiCCI\ bltfk ~ l~d ,oJe~ o( coml~u·r h.t' ~- .;r} Je mi1t:agc [\., "P 1 rt'. Duuglns Fa1 r~.111b Jr. po~cs i11 rh i-; i(l)ll t ll ml -

)

FOOT DECORuM

inn a~ti.llm.lll hip

Dorcglc1s l·iu'rballksJt~ in Gucd lof!{t·rs.

J

--- --

I

I

DR r s., I SG TH! MAN

Famed Hol~·woL)d costume desig11er Adrian, cosstted itt the classic white buck shoe.

TH E \ V H ITE B UC k

".l1

artie!~

oC it1t.>n\e.lr bl·uer q·pafit?d

relaxed sryk· than t\mt?rKall "hire bucks. Tlk'ir

t~he po"t\\,lr tn·nJ tl'''..trd

slightl~ ,cuft~J Jppt•arJUC
lent thun

thJI

nr

IiH:d i Jl cha racrer $0 chan1(ll'ri'l it l he ("I 'Uill f} ':- nnmraJ· . .1mulder fil,luon l mqud) \ml n can in r heir undc r-.t ..tttJd ll~mpt?ram~nt. Llw \\ hitl" buc..k,kin cl'.ford lan.· llf' \\ll"h u' n..:d n1hh r

soles

r 1rsL 'IL't"\l'J ,)',

CtJtn(()rt~lbll "lllllll1L'I~:lCCOlllp.111il1Wnt

tv l"e'~<)rt dmht?'

\H'fll 10

tht ~trl\

r9 ~o.s. Larer c..'ll rc.,ourccful comtmtter' di~(L'' acd rlmt t hL·~e .:-t:Hnl; 'ucde' comporrt
trnpictl \\L1r:-rccl

!-illlli111Cr

pa\'l~mcm~ under lighn' l?tQht {!abardme ~~.:cr,.,ud l r ._''

l'f

SUir'

Bmdt~r~ Hrotlk, li'•Cd

make tlw ,ine quLl non uf"himbut:k'

rng1.md 1 ht:\ \\ciT thL perfect Cll111panion tL1 t h,· 1r:1~.i':-: well-" orn kh.1l..i pnnt, ur madm, 1\c.: rmudn ... L n1~'nun tch tin· l~ruoks' J\1-tt'i,h ~lriginal i:-; )l'{ ;1!1udwr c t'u dt~ of tlw compml) \ n1!>.h t l d.i\t:'r IL~If '-fIt ... \dnJn ~llJ('\ mg tht c. lh old-nu:1rd hernaoc. HcrL' '' l lt)lh• 'Ot1d's !"tlm\:'d CChtume JL'~£ncr b t' ._. lf..)

111

:-pnkt!n luxurr ol~hi~ \\'0rll in bw.·b

-----

--

-

-

----------------------

John Lobb daim,

ll.)

-~----

han" designed the firo..t .:-.pcct~uor :-hoL

fur cracker .1round 1~68. It":-. prob~1blc rhat the shoe\ cnn ~

rra-.ring dJrk l~arhcrarc.ls-iL' counrcrs, l,Hsal strap. toe cap. anJ tacings

wcrl' initi.1lly dc,Igncd rhi~

\\U\.

bcGlu..,c the)

had to'' idi,t::md th~ most '' t'~l r during rhc ngon. 1.11· 'Pl'HT. In the j.lu age. the ,IJoc "a.:> ktw'' n :-~~ "rhL' currc'ipondcnr " iL" rwo tOJh.::d rcm1r a.ssoci:ncd wi£11 thu~L' ~had)

chnrncrers \\Ito sometime.'~ acted a dthll"fCC.l~c

.lt\\,lSoriginalh de:-igncd J

'-'

t"Orrc,:.;pondcm:-- in in brll\\'11

willo" c.1lf

and \\ hJtc buck or reverse calf suede. \\ i Lh black box calf often . ub,nrutcd for the bra\\ n lear her. \11 essential pan~,,( the tltirncs rncln:_t;m~m or holidar 'ports \\ ard robe. t hi~

t\\ t•

toned lace up\ unusual contra r l)( tcxLurc ~111d col{w e'en ~

tuall} bL'c.1me knl''' n in rht: ~t:ue . . a~ "tht> spcn:ltur ,.

·Iixla} the real ~deCor (an be acquin·d only thruu~h th~ Jllspl~..:s

ol the bespOk·l! -,!Joemttkl'r l,:(iUrh~S)

c.)f. lllUtk'l'll

commerce. m:~nui.lcntrer h.t,·e replaced this prdigr~cd !~hoc's autht:nttt. ''hire ~uede "irh a ch~1p nnd :-,hin} ")JiritcLit: lrat her, effecu'd) dimnmring the d:tss from rhis summer cb

,jc_

Gmrgt• Cersl!u-irr nud Jniug lkrlin 11'iuging it iu 14

t."Ofl't'5pt.lltdiugu spatcllors

... -

r 11 L I) RE SS SL IPP ER

Its ~~~1rd to pinptHlll the exan Wlll' or place \\hen .1 I }J\JU

;\rh n

mi~ht ltm h'ntttr'L•d ouhtdL· hi' IHHl1l' or d11h '''Jthcd in a pJtr ,f dtg nr h(•U~ 'hpptr .'t!t.-h .tn l'\"f.l ... ton llllt~l h;l\t• f~,ll~.m l•d du,t.:h on the ht.:d' .o f the mndt:nl dmner Jn. .·ll·t (.; 1 1, l\

pe

1.,;

pub]it' \.'XCUI'!o..!t)JI'

l·nl dw m hl·r nppard wagm.H cJ ll\ ro} ~tit} or Iugh sout L) Jn..._, "'•pp~." J, r mu1 m h r ·.utght dw publir r:mc~ \ tde from lite CC•Iit ,,f ~udt a one uf a ktnd furbd,m tht urn.lmt.:nh:d \I ben .;lapJ:.wr r.1rd~ n\ l:-.:.;~d path~" ith tlw JH'ra1tc m(m Pan llf n:. l'ltth , tl:g.un .tppt:.ll \\it tts Jlt!'ider d11C. 1.. }m· a} ... , • llt:('dl'd cuniiJt!nn· in CHH' s O\\JJlJ.s1e ;tnldm~ abuut Ul1\\ mpathlit\ t p n 1l H r1:s iu •l p.1ir \1f 1he..;e t•lu i't

DRL"'SIXo liH J\LHi

. \ ·dippt!r

i-...

1r.1 ~~pmg"

..:m lid t~.:'">l rh&? Jl prhs nf an} 111.1 n !'> m.Jdw.rn~

a gl:'twric 1ype n( "ihLlC 1tul a pan icuhu·

:-.t\ IL'

tndudmg

:t \\ 1de

\ :triL·n nf

f~'Ol\\t':lt'f~x mnu~ tl~c" "Iipper~. \\ hflh t•ttJ hel1l\\ the .\nldt.> auL· ~hppcd on L,nd held h, tlw f

till

'' idtnua :U1) 1:1S!L'11ing The pu111p t~ .l lippe1·.. t:'\ i~ rht: ( )J'ieutdl b.1huuchc \\iLh turnuJ up H1\: To break ~m . n trcnn

l . Iipper assoctation

'

~nnH.:

old !:1-:luunc.J h li!IIL m.mu1"Jrrurl·r.. ('~tii~J the .Lhl

indour ~ourduor r~ pt.• a :-.lip- on

I kre\ Cecil HcJit.'n :md ht•'lt:t: rl~a ~In:-. well

t

uaordm:urc

maHng merll at tlw \nt1bc~ H.tll m the

~nut II of I mnrc drca 19}.;. 'h·ung Hcmt'lll' c.: n rmblt '"

\\onh t!xantinalion. as rt I~ lllllw.

iL dtiJtl'"~

murL' dr~"' '\."UJt::- th~tl

Lih;> nne of hb lcgCJubJ] photogr,tphk 'II

1ing~. "h~rc Ill' "ottld imbue

.1

mentbi?r ~,( rhL bt.:. u

tllllntle "ith a hd~h.tem?..:f ~u1m l'"fgbmllllr lkJt.lll1 h. Llmh' Jlluch

'i

dw ~am~ dung her~ dr~~ing Jm, n due\:

llOJ'Illalh Ull!'datl"d \\ t'3r:Ihfe, of Ullitnpt:.::lrh,tblc Ll'{L I

•1

bcspt)kL· suit. ~1 dn:~sic T ~hu1 . anJ a parr of hl.trl dr. . ~ pump.... -, ht· tiuurc :-.ir \.~t~.:il rran...ct.:ndeJ mnc plact nnd , qgtw to bl'come IilL' much of'' hat h~ toudwJ. fn~htLmahlt

pc:nnnnl·ntl)

LEFT

Crdl JkdtoH nwakinl! (iln 1't'tmou in opt'm pump!. T 5/m·t. unA nllt. ~

OPPOSITE ;

Dul'id Ni1'm \l'ith tH'o got;geotL' clif!tlr~rr dlid motlt,__t:rammcd s!~vprrs m hn'. --------~--------

[

~--~ ---

TI-lE PO C KEl- 1IA. DKERC IIIEF

11 \ l.t} l lJ~- \pparel \rt5. the men\ ( t:,hton btb1c dcdarl!d rht: pvck~:l hnndkt n:hH:f :.u1mJt:: .,~

l!t,hlfm chauge- In od t~.:·r word . ''hun dt-:og:mn: penuchc.aJI} retun1rd w th~ fllrdi1tin i men t:t h It 'Ill.

!:10 lHd rlk· pufTufp:Ull'rtlllllllans brt.·a-.t pockt:t \

l-t\'tld 1 cufr~

21~

n rt

~·

~\·1 A N

t i•1n. tl llll

(~tJk·rnruf:Kl,of'JrCiuJ ••J ~ l'lt"h tiL.:

,,r ~1 c<1ll.tr b:u: the jn.:-k.:t ·f\ cht''·ll hnnukerL.htef .tdd,.. .1 ri1w~.lung wnrh u.~ til= t: n. mhl~

I luPin\! the cnrh; f~r-nai"

Dl~ll ~.s I·'·<.;

\\tth

.1J11·e

luwrfk.·rd1id~ \\L'fc cdnl-lidL·red an L""l"'lll:t.tl antd liml'

~teet·)\~" '} r\~ the ..,j\:ICL'i1th c~·nwr~ iutellccnl.ll gmnt J r:t"-'inu:'; nm~d · ·ro \\ ipt:: '1 u1 flll\t'

)(lur

~lcL'\L'

\HlS"

bnl)l"i:'ll. ·I t.,ndkerdu~Jf, gr.tduall} brc.11m::: more ornate ~\(!lllUJJl "tr\lllP,

.1:-i rokrtl-" t ,1- ~l L"tmpte\ loH? l~lr c~tch ot Iter h eq n.: .. pecrabh..:

rhi:-. d~l). it i" collsidcrl'd :1 ~}'lllhul ,,( gcnttliq and

M

m.1le c.lfn~d .1 h.lndkt.·rdlll t' and H1

cinlt~mk

l11 cighrccndt (Ctllllr} l:11gbncl. the pPpular ~nurlh.1hir ~1nd tts coucmnn.mt .trt ul "- '" taining :1 ~Ilt't·zc hn1ugln men\ h.1uk.<: i1110 thl' d1:.1\\ing room. B~ lhe muctt.:s.::mh ~entun tl1c ordt llill') • \Jnl·ri\2~m

fanner in

tilL·

I >eL·p ~omh

w;·b

mopping his bnm

\\Hh ..1 ...-nnlm

1m1 Hf tbt

\\.'f

origin:tl silk print llllJWrted fn,m lndt.1 I ht 1ra

litiuu tnr cuiPrL-d han\.~kctrhit.'fi gr.tdualh g~tl loped '\t.)Uthwcsl aJqng \\ 1th t lw t:U\\ b.o\

rht.. Roaring 1\,entu"' 'a'' a ,i1.1rp n'c: in dccut·ativ~ handl cruhtd. ,,,.., the P1'11lCt' c I . ' Ii"h drc''l?f harmon i:1cd h," h.mk .md lit· but did nor march it' iabnc ~,r c~..,lor B\ dtl

mtH't.' SL'

rhi rt ic!\ \\ell -drt:~:-ed men carnl d t\h '1f dtt.:''-' app:trd uple. . lmmcdmtc .lCCJl'~" to .1 hJndl.t:r:du~.:f t'cmcia1. wh~rhcr _, tll't'Zt'

h.J

hl·nd ofr th.u unt:\f'L'Cl~J

or ro map up -;prlled champ.tglH I '\ur

in~ \\ orld \~nr 1. uujj~lfJTJcd

ll1fll"l'l"" \\

~

th

tight!~ 11app~d pocket, ~achn:~ thdr lundku

t·hid:..; "trhin 1heir coar slce' e\; """ tlw t~HJU!! i.1d:l'l ,, id1 it!- bn.:!a't pockt t .. uppbm~J t ht·

irnck .:o~u. d1t• "nne f\ lr bkm IH "' From tlte 1930s right up to todar. pockt:t handkcrcltic:Js l't'ntuin symbols q[

sa r1\Jria 1gw t if if)'·

"'

If( h

rue ked :m .:n ur thl.· unfbppl·ll ft,;.ar trlnht.: r ptKket "hilt~

tiTL'

-.)nt: lor . . hm\ln

"\\J...,

m•m h• di:-cp~n e.J in lhl' J.Kkt."t' brt a'l •

pt•rma

plX h

t

'···.:-c 1he ad\cnt llf rhc rm.:n It ungt .. uit in the btr ninetcl.·nth

tionnl h raih.lfl'd •

l

\\.1

C:\lfll'

t:t."tHun .11J

h.n c ~~ JlUI'l'.d

--

.1n

rr.1d1

.tppn

\ p&tt i breast pocket mu d~(~11ed to displai' c: pockn hundki•rd:r~f

1\t

ch~"t pocket 11ot lor ciuarct tc' ur ~1 p.tir ~~r rcadi11g !!Ll''L"'. but L•l Lii . . nl,n H bit tlf l,n.uch antrk·d l:J ::.::') f imt'h \\ uhom 'onw ttlnn 1..1f pl)ck~t rigging. an ullt~ide hr~.·ast pt lCkct JPJX~ll~. ~111d ~

L,..

I

L""

the nur lit in(ompk·tc

I11 the bilk} Llll petiod r.( 111<1lc..: ck~gathT. nne \\ nuld hL' h:lrd prc,,ed to find unt.: nf the "bo}':· without

cl

prupcrlr dn.:-:,cd (hc:-t

pnckL'I.

dn.:". ~r' the plKkcr hank .1ffordcd )C'l ~tnothcr opponunir) f ht.:

h:tnLlkt::rchicr iS part of tiJ~

:1 ~,hlllP

or

F1lr each ol- r·hesc l,rnllh.'tht:~ln l"\1

exprt.'\'- his

ll\\11

indi,idtr>llit}

uf maleS[} ic rh:H CCIII\ 1..') S llH ll't' th:111 )ll'l ll'a ~.ltth'll tht rn.mn\.'r IJl \\ hi·-h 11 i.s di~pla} cd c.m be a~ d1s1 inguishin~ ~1' it' ,:o;dcctiull. l )n rlw it,Ucm mg page. cl1c I )uke ni \\ i nd!'or ':-; ~ubi i me chic rl.'~idcd in d 11..' ca'l.' ;md n,nu mint \\It h \\ hich hl· "c. lrl' dorht•' p11Ckct dccc.Jr i nd udcd -, h,Jugh the l )ukc folded hi:-- tiC~l tl} he pi..ll;.·b_ t

\\on them

.lt

,,dd .mglt•s witlm1

t\\ 1st ( Jf) t ~ mnt Ill\ Jored

tht•

IlliiHtiWL'

breast pocket ()rhcr C1mcl1 [lshil'nable~ :1dd\·d their~,,, 11

lw;, 't' di-.crectl} th.H it

!ilk' rnrnt:r

sla IH!\ tU\\ .1 rd hi~ I:Kt>. l"olll ran t n 1L~

CW·lom.ll) Jngk· puintmgout rt)\\.trd the ~ltouldcr I red \~t.11rr hknltt• \\c..lr hi~ ~ilk ~qu:tn:'' 111:1

putr l~1ld tlmt h~ .1llegcdl} inh·m..:d. (Jar} L\1opcr Sf1(H'tcd his :tl" ir ~1n ~~rrt·rthnught. '' ltid1 hnb nubhcd h.1ppll} \\ tth l11~ curled up ~.-(lll:lr~ :md cctsunll} .l'>ke\\ th.:d. rit:". \ I.Jic hahllimcnt i.._ n dml} 11111111.1C'\ lh:u publici} tr:msmit ~ i n:-.cl'tmJbl~ pri' .\!(' tnG~o.:.tgL'S \\ htlc pL•rmancm f:t"htoll' like rhc shrph··rJ'<> chL'ck necktie. d1c GJmd hair pol<' co:1r. ,,r hl.h:k cnl(up.:rn pump-. arc .1 t~·" of thi ql, ... tk l.mgtt.lg...·\ bctl'\.'r kno\\n ~..yc ...:11es -.o i~ 1hc ~implt• \\ hn.: h.mdkr-rlltic{ fi."'dm mu't 111L'rl .1\ ntd dOJ111ing one. l~nring thm d1q "ill dL, It incl)rn.Ytl~ h~tJh •'r both ImJgL:' \\here t:ht handl...t·rl"ht ....f j, so cnn~pi'-"'ltoth dt,n it· appc..lr.. rc.1d} LU balloon IIU.ll p.tl"~· l lr pni l'd J«, .1 m1Jlc napkm rl.'lll fl>rc...· rh~..· :n er.l~'t' 111:111\ dr~:~d of the plllt'IH t;d Gut~ p.l~. To the 1.: .. snplu"tiCJ.t\..'{1 man. thl· pnckct 'tlll.tn.' 111.1} ..,lTill :111 crfete llnuri:-h. )t'I" a C.lsU.tll} (oldcd

<'ES~ORffS

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT

Th~·

Dt4hc sct~gccl Jus, Cary Gra11t trrcgulm·Iy auglt!d llli.

f-red Astt1in· pt![TJ-.lded his, a11d Ga'l' Cooprr ploppt•d hi.~.

•

----\\ lll[t:

ha11dker.chicf utter~

the· quid~l'Sl

1 .L

:md lr..·a~t

~'Xp\?n,i\L' ''a~ tn lend 4~ mcdit'~.-r~· sui l

-

.1 llll'n.·

c.'f>C'l't\ c loc.lk 'lin~x· mo'r dn.:~s~} ~uir' arc paired "id1

,t.-.hd "hue. blue ·h1n'.

01

"h1te gr0und

pattc'J"Ilt.'\.{

drc"~

rhi' color f~·mn:n aflord..., the ... irnpl"· "hire

hJndken:hicf :1mplc opporrunif) ro pn'' idl· all the b.L,ic pnmp Jlct:;d~d Tlwrd~Jrc. rhc tl r'-t nrdt.'r lll. busint?""

j,

tl' learn h,)\\ to pr\1pcrl~ :;pon lHlc

l)l'

tiW'\:' \\ 111! L' llUI I lbl' r~

rhough [he lnll1ing of ;] hnnk rt't.lllirc~

.

mtnJful L".m.·. like the n ing .... L'f a bow Lie. rlw lllll"t impw ram dung ro remctnb.t.•r

t'>

dun it:-; dcplH·t-

mcm 'hould nppc.1r un mdied . d"f(..,nlc ... ,h conrnbutin!! to the m·e,-:~11 aph-.mb. PaniLularlr bcc.lll'L~

nf It' 'tar1 counterpoint w rhc dJrk ..;uir.

the \\hire linen qtr;lrc no.·d.s ro be irrc~ubrly .lrr:tnc~..·cl. ~

"uh 1l" pornEs neither marlwm~ui~..·~1lh•'

c\an nor tlnnened n~ if prc:-~~cd "ith n n.'lling iron.

Lik~,.·

.1

.~uod ha1rcut,.

rhc be~t - fnldc-d

C-011Sp1cuous pockr:t dt'cor

detractsfrom tlu· H"lwk

'------------------

"-lJLLnrc..,
uh~.·~e th:ll d\;l mll·

.

l)llC \\3\

tt, gngl~ "-

dr.m attcnrldn to rhcm .. ch cs. [I) eJICOllrag~ r!Jj.; h.h:k vf \-l"lllll'l\;lJICt.' IS . the h.mk ~I i£!1nh ~)utwnrd tOW
-- -..,

I

houldcr Thi. po:"itioning noL onlr rcintorct:..,

till.'

dsagon.IIIiJlc nf Ule j
the dtt: t\ \

... hapl· .md "houldcr.< brc.11..hh.

AlthDugh lo11g con~ide.rcd

tHllL'\\ hm

p.h~l'.

clu.. \l]LL1J"C '"T\ .. h'lld ~ain~d pupularll) back in 1 he 19)U"

\\hen C\crnl of ,\mt.'rici\ tdc.:\i.siun c~.:-kbri

tic" be~m1 ~

to cn:.a!-c

rbcir' in .;uch a manner Th~'(l~h ~

PJL'~Jd~~,Jt 11.:-~rq ' · rnlman . •1 htJ'f11l'l. h:lhCI\1.1'-Iwr.

aJl,pted th~ same sq le. d1c rrcnd !:tiled ro Ctldurc. prob.tbl} bc.'Clrl'>t ns purpo..;eful s~mtJtf•try c:omm -

\ «.:ned the .111 l~'rm·~ under!) iug spnm.mci t )·

r he best sii.C I~ H. the pul'kCl . I

h.1lldkPrchic(

n

tlw ~ubrlc hand stirchl.'d edge t'l" n find~ railoreLI jnckt:>t lapd. iv rxpn"t.: d pntm ~ :md ctlgt.!.-t nt:C\.1 to bl' rolled :md b t 1l: I 6

to Jti inch quilre. and. like

"intchc..xl b} hanJ l~tr g~nuin~ rd1llcrnem llerc nrc 11ft..\\

\\41~ stu fi,ld rhc o:;olid linen ~quare.

Tht st[ft..TV"Jold.

----

,~

~---

--- ---

-----

\Vhilc dw white hath.ikcrchief ,,jfla)\\::l)s bl' mailable 10

to

f31J back upon lt1\ mmt

the :-ulid coil) red hank. Altll\)Ugh the pocket handkerchief can rake its coordmate.c; fr,m 1

eral C'nmp,,nent~ within rlw tailored Cfllllpnsilion. the

ltt.. \

Pll '-

cnl11r and pant:ru usuall; dctennme

it clwi(c. lkcau:-e dllrh~ ~h(')ttld hdp ~·scon rhe 1bscner\ C}e td\\an.:l the lac~ mcrrh nwrdJ u:ning. or worse!. m~uching :t rie and h:mdkerchief is not only a "ign of an un ure drc.:\st•r bm a)'"", n 'ure \\:1\ to lead d ll.'' l'\' c.' acn'"' thr bod\ :md a\\ a\ from the face. 1nllowmo thi' logtc I

I

~

I

,J

.1 -.

lhd

cDiorcJ h:tndkcrchicf ~h~)uld only be tn:Hed wiLh a paucrned Tl1:'Cktie. nnd it td~alh "hould nm

hl' {,(the s<1111C culor: a~ thc grnunJ ~h:1dr.:• 1Jf the IIL'cktje l)ll dv" oppo..,itl.! pag..:' i~ an t•dn in((,rmcd r~_·,pnns,~ to :111

DR F~ .SJ f\h:

Esquire r<... n~oler\ qttCI') . drc:1

lf

19':16.

or di[(l'l\~lll li.."Xturcs ;llso helps keep them From apprarmg lU hrackcr the chest. As a general rule or dllllllb, a ie".s !-iilkcn lu'>ter calls f~:tr matH~· pod l't !'quare

TJf r Al.H\

l\ I.Hing tics ~nd

hnllks

I

,J

like linl:'n or cutt'-''111. Ct)I1\er.sdy. a \\ll<'l••r linen necktie \\ith a dulled surflce requm.:-. ahc upbc.::u lu~tcr

L___

((ltllnrd h:mk !\hltltld fit cmnfunnhl) into the pod..u \\ithnut

-----~---------------------------------

J-j

or a ~ilk l~ntbrd. 1\

------------------------------------------

,1-

A

\Vearing a matching handkcrchiif and necktie is a sure sigt1 ofatl wrsophisticared dresser. A solid pocket hank should echo a color in the nl!cktie,

shin, or jacket.

- ------------------------------------------------------. rOR~fUL,\

FOR I IAN DKERCII J r f'-

Gentlemen.

Kindly suggest colors and

design~

of handkerchiefs (dress)

tCl

wear wirh combinadons of plain color white. blue and brown shuts \Vith

blue and white vertical stripe; with wide light brown stripe on whirc: and with solid color brown suit; grey suit (dark): or with a spon combination of unmarchcd coat and linen trousers. Very tnrly yours, Denton. ~1d. L F. C.

Breast pocket hamlkcrchicfi may be 4 similar s!Jude to either tht· tit wont. iii ba~~ounJ color, or the colors cifits.figures or stripes. Altcrnatil·dy, it may be. ofa srmilar shade h, the sllirr wom, or its srrip!S or patt~nas.

If it 1.: possible to srcurc a IIaudkuchiif wllicll contains colors tlutt arc l,oth in the shirt mJd tie, tlrisfteqctently makt~ a smart combinatiotJ. It {s undesirablt to match tlu colors txacrly. llS tllis looks stwlird. L L

--~

---~---~------~-~-

----------~

I

____ J

I

CCESSORJ

--

-~

'--::tggJ ng •'~" bulk1 ng n up Ht fl rP hu, ing nnt:

HlU

might \\.mtt) tt::~t Jl"i ulumt:

b~ fir~t plwnp1111! pocket

11 111 Hur

bn~t"l

lu afFcG a nJtural bot lht

smoother ... u, "qunres rcqum.: ~ h1t , I

-

mun.~ dj]ig~nc\;

.

perlq. sn1~ Jt attcnuon lmt n~ \\ hen khrcd up in 'Oilk 'r.: r"nm of dll' puff fuld t '' i th or \\ l tlwut ars po11H -.hm\ in\!. the l~ntlard handl~L·rduef !'lhould re-;r in d lL' brc.tM pltCkct m 1 ~1 :\Itgin angle \ ... "1tl1 n~ luwn Lt. nfr~;rt. .1 dmgonal ~etting fo t.cr' .1 ft·,.., (".tku

I

DR.fL. Sl~G

nu M

l.,.

in furlmg th~ut the

l

'-'

hned. lllllr~ jaunq '\\.Jill

ignnr lhrber.1 h.t~ de h.: rl\. ~

configur(!d h1 pnntt:d ftmlarJ t'ir"t t~'11l1 i1 rccrangtdarly in the T\' m.mncr bef~Jr0

put I kn· \\e '"c the mac,tm of nu\ lll(king it mer nn\.-e more J1w. Jn•angc

till' cxtm \ nluml' ~lflli .'hapL' ncedL·d to tt:rllL'd bl:.lJ'l.k t· w 1~1!1 propt:tlr It) tlw pocket\ out~idt:

llh.' ll t Cl'l':lf t'-'

, - - - - - - - - -- - - -

-

-

tn ~W\

re111:1111

upright "hiJe .IIJm, mg thl:·

pat

-----------

II

L_ -~----

--

---~~-

219

OPPOSITE TOP:

Contrast trxtun:s: dry twecJ.fackct, wet silk hanky. ABOVE

Luciano witlrfrirnd and podttt ltanlJ. folJeJ his way. (Set also pagt 145)

DRl :,,:., IN l: l /H

i\1 r\N

And to conclude this pocket pontiflcation ott a celebrator)' note, legendary social critic Ltlcirts Beebe toasts cafi sodetys mostj{m1ous parade grocmd, El Morocco, b}1 sporting (ts sigruzwre leopa.rd motif.

-

-

~--------

BELTS AND BRACES

_ , uspendt:•r, ha,,·lt>nge,·irh.·\.:d :m :tir uf-;upt·riorit} over bdts like the 'bghr :.lrTngancc felt b) cl

man proud ro dednre him,df a guH~·r hut ~ht•t•pi::-h ro admir ht: likes bu\\ ling. ThL' Dath.~tt'S

t:1H'rt:-d rhcm mcrrhe ("nu.lcr bdt. '' hiLh tltt.:)" ctm~idt·rl'd 41 l~LH hie inven rion: they Iiked their p:llltakHlJlS Lighd} dra'' nand ultra-rrim. l-r;mcc is gt'Jh.:'ralh crt·dired as rht• birrhpb.ce tl rhe ''gallu~:· nr nwdern :;u,p(•ndt!r. originalk made

t"rlllll

line :-ilk ribbon in a mulrintde oC CLllors and patterns.

fhe 3111..-it.:Jlt l'i\aln bt. t\\C~Il 'll~pt'lh.k•rs and belts g<.'t\'(' ri-.c u 'l''('Jld~r "upn"JltaC' 'w-pcndcr~ ic.t. being f.,,(,ioncd and \ended

WL'I'L'

to

longt.•r ~Ct.:mcd m be n11 artifact for

to\ L'l"\ di!)t JIKL"

~lllllJtg l'ill' rir'\L Wl'M:Jbh.:c; to be rc.ld} made

early (olnnt-a-. b,· tr;l\cling pc.Jdl..:-rs.

periods Llr in Amer~

One~

they tll1 paundn uld lllt'll. su.;;pcndc:r'>. or .. braces" .1.., the English rile

called them r\?igncd ... uprcmc in the L'nircJ

\r.ltl''

dunng the yc
to

rhc first \\t,rld

\\:u J Jm,e,cr. :tccording m Dquirt·5 Eucrdt,pt·ditrL~(loth Ct'lllllr}' J\Jcns l~1shion. "'The dnughbll)' o(

\\\\I ,,o,·c J co.tr:-oc rarn dc.Yldcdl) bdr

" consriou~

b~lr

with hi.' khaki uni!"orm. and when he rewrncd in 1919. he

.. '\Jcvcnhdl'ss. bract:!' t"lmrinucd w domin.ltt.. mcn,wcar thmughmn

the t\\ cntic. '' ith thL' Cutl~L·nstb th.n l11gh rise. (ull cur

held up b~

wa~

tTl1llSL'f"

with pleats dr:1pcd best when

br.1ce~

Dt.•.;pir~

\,tJct nnd tht:

rht.·ir ''"t'rwhdming acceptance. a gcnr rl'vc.tlcd h1.s .;;~1.spcnJer.s only

\\OITl.lfl

),p

bnmght hnml'. [: \po-.ed bratT.S :we re a

'OU_(CC

his

r1l

or cmba tTJ'I'\J11l:Jlt fol'

nk~ltnm•x~d l10111pan>: a~ the) were st illcnn..-idl~l·cd male undcn' car. a' cstigc l)f the \ tLtnrian

era J J,mc\
'-1

'-

rcmL\\Jng thctr \est' ~llh.l Jonning

belt". According to E.squird clltycfopcdi,l. dudng summe-r mumh. 111 the hue t\\Cnties. sales oCbdt" uutnurnbcred .:-uspendcr" four ro one. Dunng the 193lb, the succc~' ,J( the dr~1pcd

.:-;uit (()upl~d

wirh the

inlllli.'ll(L'

o( Sm ilc

Ro\\ fi>rmalit) rcntrncd "u"pender' ro finor. but the lime lwd cnme fL)r rhc ,,eJJ -wardt\)bcd man

toO\\

n .1 dct"tJ,,n ofbcJr, Th~.:· decade\ full :1nd loo,cr..cut rrouscr<; cnt:tJUragcJ ma1HII~ll

Lllrcr-. tU cqtup them \\lth rnrmcd

belt loop.s rhe popubrit) n(knicker.' and knlckt:rbi..'Ckcr ~llib also

a bnou to rhc bch mduqn \11tl. n' a rcsuli o( tilL' interest gl'nl.'r~ncd in I

L

rc\l'I''-L' ~

calf

fnonH.:ar br the Princt: of \Vnles, the \\Prlcl'«;; Ulh.li"plllt'd fashion l ea~cr. c11ordinating shut'~" anti

bclr'\ ~o;onn b~ra111c the \l1gue. \\ith dmmt'i" and sucdl· hdr~ made ro conrditl~lll' with thr' newly (a,humablt~ "ucde spurt "hoe. \\~)rid \\:u· II ~bbrc,·iatcd dtc pn:)\.luct iun

nugannc nl<.1ng ''irh ~ome t\rn~rican

l

)f bl)til

111;1nuf.1cturcr.;;.

hl·h~ and br~K~~- I 11 lt.t.l 1 , E.'qufrc

l.uuh:hc~..i the !\old Look. an

:tllL'Jllpt

to

g~thanil.c the \mericnn man to coordin:ltl! him:-cl( frnm hat tu h~ds in H lm!'k}'. conli\.knt

111:1n

ncr r hl luok fe:tturing large ~calc proportion ~tnd strong color m~trkcd the bcginnillg

nr the..·

end of ( ngland·~ hcgcmnnr mer .\mcncan male . . l!'os aud .\111eric:J\ own dc~n·nt into tht.•

morac;s off~t"hton medi\xrcil) ~u~pt.•ndt:rs

"0Llll

l(lllo\\cd suit

2.11

.-\ ccrs ..,.cHo

1111 ring tl H?

I LJ')lh.

Esqt~in• ld lu\\ t.•d ''it h another fa~o.htoJl pn.unotit'll rcrn 1t d "\!r J In

c''l1!t.1S.I tn the former. more ~grL'g1011s di~ph.l) Df~,d( dH? \lr. T look

~~CIJ

110\\

opt~U ror (tJill(lnni~t. ~11011~ lllllWI .l:J..'lp:Jrd

fL·aLltring

\\&1

dm·J. and

kJn.tnd (\Jil~tef\Jti\t 113ITo,.J\\

dr'l:!'l\ bt:lt~

t ,

suppl)rt 1lw11' ,1 i mmcr. pia in frum t rou~er~. I lwt undt,tiuglll hcd sl\ lc hd ped ro quicrh prupd the

\llJL'l'ltall

man

lllil)

the gnt) lbnncl <•r:t \s nwn rtArurned

the \\ar .tc"'''r unt:d tu the

from

~en il'c' uf u bdt. 'u~pcn,.1·r-. rut'k .1 fa~hto11 himu~ rhat cxtt>ndl.'d lm· tlurn \tar.. 111L h1p hdd tmuser ll( tht> \.:olllincnral. L:Jnl.tb) Stree1. 1\:ac~..Kk Ptl"ITC L .trdm <111d H1ut knn er:t rdt J

--'\~}

Dllb -o-:-.·c;

•

gnted brao. > l~..l tht' priv-:nl' hn'lion" <,(the ~m ilt• Ro\\ aficionado .111d thL)~L: rt·m~unillg l?lldJh-s

{lthe Lt~il_:{,a~t \VAsP. p.lrti(ulnrly \\'~til

\irct·t

The It;~u:- brot1ght the slu" blll lltc~nr~blt> rl:'tttrn u( tlleJJ·s rruu'-l?f!> frc'llll their hmh

HH l\Lu:

I

'

pt.'' it iu t 1i ng dll d1 (' hip 10 t h~ s:am:tu:lt')' Ll the lll an".., "ail'i r .\ contlueth:~ of e\l·nt" '-·uns:pm:d ttJ rcpb.:c rhc -d..:imigbr fit o( tilL' pust Pc~K!lCk R~\<)lunon \\ith 11Ill~r. iongL'r n L' plc.n(_•d frt.lllt trou ...crs. In tilt~ I lolly" ood mm il" ,\mcrir,lfl c;g,,fo, fn~h10n J~ocign~r l,ir,rgin \rmmu JJllh.idu(:eJ hi lt1l'"t'r. mnrc r
L\'

tlte IJshi,Jn pubJic m:1king it cc,ol lt>r men

U..J

lnok Jl1h:r

c~red in dwir :1ppcnra1Ke. The \\'urh.i" idL· succt>" ol Ralph Laun.·n·'\ rran!ipl.lmt.•d \nglomant..I

al-•ll hdpt•d ru cducnc men in ~nnw of the h'ritit'' c,f l1!d \\orld ra.;rc \mcri(a!l men's (:t:-hiun ha . . :-.kl\\·hs bl'~LIIl w rl'connt?Lr "ith "omc ,(its prt:\\Jf her .....

it.tg\!.

~lichaL"·I DougLt" \\Oil nnl},car

for J,j,

portr;~}nl o((;t";rdon

<..;ckko. rlw rt:ptilt.mm,iJc

trader wlwl~norcd rc'iplcl~llend ) .stript~d rnglisb br.lCC~ alon~ WIL11 mher 'mile Lhc llJ86 film

\\i1/l &.,freer.

P"olluwin,,C" l )l)tii..TI:J,' lead . a nl'\\ t"

uf tit(' suspcnd~_.:r'.s inhemm

:-111<11Tlll'\:-i

~cncr:nit•n

'*

RO\\

11\t:f\ in

•)f HH.:'tl hxamt? eu.unun..·d

.llnng \\'lth cur( links. pl'lcket watches and ntl nmnnu ,lf

dn~sic rn:1k dn.·~~ nnl
THE BRACE SUSPENDER

l),GH \\ 'ildt· lllKL'

,Jwuldcr. nor from rhc ''~list.·· In rhts. ht·

_,t:ued .... Ciorbcs ,Jmuld hang from 1ht•

i~ (Ompldt'lrcorrccL

\belL can nc,er m.ud1 the 'u"

pender in allowing rhc plcJ.tcd troll.sl'r w ful!"ill il\ ~1c.-;rhcric J1tnnion H~ 'C\.'1Jring the p~un ~.; rc:1r on either ~1dc of it~ back sc:1m while andwring the trou~cr,· tmm dit'cctl) :-~bene il~

T\\Ll

-

I L-~----------~------~--------

--

m.11 n ple.lt' 'll9-''-"'llders .'lllO\\ rhc nnrumlpull oCgra\ it) to ket•p

dtL'

pant':- fnmt :-tn~.l b:1cl... crca

t•

t.lut Jnd in pf
rn.1u

p hi tlL"ming on rhc '' a:i 'r uulme . . t lie 0\1:' r.11l ll>l>k '' i rh

eN

llh >re clcgan t p rc~pnrt lOll'

t 1rigm311) bm~t:' Jik\.· bdr ... \\ert• m.td~ 111 t:\..Kt ... i/.t'' :-oth.-lt .b )2., ~-+-or ~6 inch., \('on

rrnllul l~ngd1 alltm l.'d dll· su 'pendt:r \ hack i~lrh and .1d ju:-tabk Crum len.·rs to b~..· COITfXrl) po i 0 uk-d ..lC\Lm.hn~ ro the'' l::lrer\: height. Tlk frLHH lc' L"i"' .II\~ mt•am tr) 1·L·,r 111 tlw hoflm, ~.-rc:m.:d

b\ thl' ch ,r· pn.aubt·ratKt' and dt~.· r.1pcr of the- ".ti,tltn{' If -.cr ab~,.,,L rhc bl)ltl'ln h~tlf nf the

cht•-...r. rhL~ double l.nt.:r of ribbon bu]k-' np tht· tol'..,tl. "lulL· dw gilded buckle!'" ind up di,£r,Kt m~h dt.JS~ w the "enrt'r's (;Ke lodm. mo~r br.h.:~;'' .m.• ~l1kl in ()lh.? '1/..L' w mmodau.· \l'U.•1 :...htrl" rcp.1ir

-...ht..'F' ha Ihl' prnper machim.:q to ~hurrl!ll I hem ...,u,p~ndcr worn trou~~r:- ... lmuld h:nc l'''' re:1r brll'pcndcd ~-nrrccrh the rrou L'r..: mmn pk·.H lic. . 'nh othl~ "hik the fnlllt crL·a,e r(·rain:-. ir:- kni(clike line. BUlh)ll!' l'[ ro • fur {Ll the ...ide or dw li"Olht'rs· lll.lill pleat not Olll) fat! ro andh)r it proper!} but reduce the rcn,inn on the 'houldt•r .:-trap~.\\ hich rht·n ~lip (mm t hl' !'hPuldl'r. TrLm,cr' ... huuld .th\.1\. b · \\l.lm Luger at rhe \\ai,t -...o th~H thL·,

Clll :t('tltally

bt: ,u,pcndl'tf" from the ~lllmiJcr'.

ncpcnl"Hng on pcr~onal ra,tt:. brae~ bunon ma} be wom l'n the im;idt.· ,,r llllt:-idc

thl"

\\,lJ

tbnnd In the carl}

)C.a rs, '' ht:n

F'rmocol dkt;llcd

l.,r

th~ll brace' be cmKe.llcd. Lhc ,.e,t or

bunonc:-d jJckt·t .tecompli .. hcd thut dr:~:.·d ha11dily. l'\:uurall). it ''a~ llll"~rc n.,mhH't3bk: trl 'l·rure lht•m tu thl· (iLlt. 1de ot" the wai,tband ..1\\ .1} lTum r ht• ht~d; In rhi . . portrt.lit t1( t ~aq l:oL1pcr nn

the ( llltl\\ mg..... page .... ht-... are affi:\cd "e-trmg a' c

t

L:O

.

the om side: n( hi~ '' ai~L b.1nd F)rnbabh bccltl::iC: he '' .1~

llo\\ L~ cr "hen men :'! tarr~...l g"i ng ·\ c ... tlt.:'=-···

rhc sw•pt.·nder but ron ... "ere mo\ ct.l

our of tght to th~ rmade of Lht;" '',ai,rb.1nJ

" "'cl·dle "ro <-m. bdr. hould ncH.·r br "orn "ilh . . u-.pcndt~r.• ;Uld bdt lotlP' . . hould not

.lc~('~mpan trou~er-. \\trh 'uspcndcr butwn. I \~11 though 'ome mt•n likt.·

u. p~ndl r

\\ Jth

dudgt:' born

tll

.1ltcrnat~

ont.: pair of trouser~. u:-petll..lcrcd pam \\ rth em pi) bdr loop . . j~

tf c mH~.mcnce

l)lll'

a bdt or

or rhl)'('

that t ll\\ ~1rt' both com em iun and go< d ta.'tL'~ I ( ,u~pcr1dl·r.-. .1rc

gomg to be \\Orn ideall} the pcmt \:;hould be

111;1dl' ''

nh ancxtcn ·ion \\ni... tb,md.

ll)

!'i11h>Oth

e-\t~r

rhc tr JU! er npt.•n front. alnng "i rh 'ume kind nf adj u "' .tblc stdl· 1~b I( r aJJiL ionnl \\ .1 j,t ll~J 1\ilm '"'h'U \H m '' tthout .. u~p.~ndcrs_ \\ hile must nd~.?-. r l drc'' an· m;H.ll' tube b\.'!m. 1hi~ (h1l''ll.l h.lp r~n

['be: one of them_ Tht• fml.'"it qu.1l1l) ~u..,pcnders .ut~ m<:a.ie of r.1) nn. rcp1.1Ci 11~ } 1.> wq L""'.l r ·, sdk

l'l1t ,,,.•1p~

are rut m 11 1 mdt or 1 1 _ inch stnp' \n\ nan·tm er and the) "ill b111J.. lll} ' ' 1Jcr and the' "1ll t~d nnnher c m~· Hra~ec; \\ nh clip end~ .1rc proh:1hl) oka~ for l:1nn "ork but lll\f under n sutt u(

l.lt th

1 ho't. of ncd:nc . . dk

pattern gr.tcmg

J

Glll

be comfonnble but .trc lll~ithcr m1rlwnric

su.'ipcnder strap lll1uld

be \\ O\ en

rathL~r

th:111 printt:~..l.

tlllr

.1s

durable \m I

on h

1 he "O\

dl:-...1gn p, ...c.: ~c rhc o,trt:ngth uf dmrJcter tn .:umc\ tht appunen.mcc".. uuhrnn~m lim:agL:

en

A (:CT."S0lt

----------

l

OPPOSITE

Stl5p(ndtrs tiSd co arruch w omsidc ofrrottst:rs ill

.-\ CC E5SORl E

l't'SHI't.'llriug dt~p,

RIGHT.

P(.rJ:cr po.sitimred levers witlr guh:rrd su.spmdas.

u~pc11dcr..; "ith knitrt.•d end~ \\'l'rk well wirh lc>t·mnl wear:

Jnd It: ' bulk\ under n w.1brcoar or cumm~rbund. ( )ualiLY bnKcs •

machurt~ mad~

........_

end in an cfhln

to 1111

J

they ::J.re ,oft0r. 111L)I"L' piinbk . :.lJ"L

cu.stot11an h• m.1dc \\ ith r

derate price. IIO\\C\'l'r. rllgland's \ lbL·n Thurston srill

turn.; our the Rt lis Royce of Lrou.;er usp~nsion. espcriall) if} ou happcn ro lind pt.~imt:ns 111 "hiLc cargur The "hire

C\'C'ntunll) turn~ crl'am. it11p:1rting

\\Drkmg leeH· bunonhole~. old-fashinnt:d white cargm

j,

'Jil

tt'•

lund-finished

,1gcd patina. Lih·

onl' nf thn'L sanonal bt\lla 1"1dc~ con-

m.mng an cducntLx1 palate. ~otc the corren pusitjoning ,__l d1i' Engli~h bracc·.s k' cr~ BRACE }\ESTJJ ETICS

Sine!.! br;.tc~s -.hare the

'\:111H.:

\erLical pl:.1nc as Lhc tic. rhc:.sL

l\\0

element~ arc coordinated flr!'t.. l~Jllo\\ed b) the drc~s c,;!Jin am1 rnJll~t:r. Th\? C'\pLril?nct'·d drc:-,er

\\Iii uc;.e the bra~e·. color or pattern m (rnme r he ~n~t·mblc\ compl}si t ion.

<>~.~l id

ur 'l ripcd bra~:l''.!'

.:tfl~ rd more vt:n••triltt:) rhan a patt\..·nwd pair \s 1he: m.ljllrit )' ol" rncn Gn or pJrtenh.:d Ill'lk\\ L':lr.

tht: !\t1ftl! Or tmple "tripcd ribbon Call pick up uncof the tic\ CtJII.li'S Wilh\llll

L'Oil1pL'lillg witltlltt'

trc\ d~.;; 1gn

Patterned braces ~nonstripcd) cot"rdimttc bell ·r "irh £he ~c,Jid tht

t.:ruil

d1e\ c.m t:1d1er repeat one of rht: tic\ colors or look

pamon.o;;hrp

llll\\C\er:

lo

(lr

stripl:d n~cktic. In

rhc trouser nr shirt !"or com-

smcc suspender arC' hidden under the \C"t or jacket~ thcr elljtl}' 1r~nH·n

d~lus freedom to complement an~. all or none (,f the tor:'lo·!' nt-ce ..... ories. tl~pcnding on the

prnLtttl Hh:r" per onai skill and ta'itt:

·rl l E DRESS BELT -1 he d111iL·e n( dre~s

bdt 'hould be dict;lll'd fln,t br the• ~huk'·~ t1'lnr '

0

.1111~ th~n b) tlw hue of the j:Kket ~md trou')cr

/1

\\llid mixmg .. ll.':llllL·r color s.u..:h :ts a hn'\\ n bdt "11 It .1

bbck ,!Joe :wd 'i\{' 'er~a l;cncr,lll). ,Jrc's

b~ It~

DIU

'I.)

I~\~

1U!t\l~~

,JH.Iuld b(•t>(,m equ;1l t~r ~..brker shrh..ll· dwn tilL· :-.uit. \ &u-kl'r bdr impans a dr~..!'isit•r l~mk J'lw 111\HV rill· (on tra•.;r ben,l.·~n hc.:·lt a11d tl'flll'l..'r tl1e ~plH·ti('r lilt' rc~ult. \\ hc11 "ell "·1~~,~~11. the

l"l''''r pf d1\? drc'" bdt mmitniz~' llw transirilln ~11

A BELT"s Et~o 5HOULO FiNIS!-t

till' '':1i't wit hnur inrerrupti11g dl~..·lillL':lr llc.n\

BETWEEN THE TROUSER S FIRST

nf tltC' C1l:H ~llld rnnbl•r.,·.

t.NO SECOND LOOP

l\ot h tilt' Jrc!>S bcJt\, L'"tcrilll' at1Ll und\: r

,jl.k' should be con.strucred """~1 nne gr~li lled lc:ll ht: r iII :J " id I h \ af} j ng fi·.om I I ~

~

\\ hen buckled, it-. end -;hould b~..·long ('Jllmgh l'llllllillg pa,tlhL'

'l'Cl>lld

ll'

4

in~.h~..· . . lO I I llllL'he

ilni'h 1hrough th~..~ trouse~ fir:'I belt luop \\ nh mt

nuddl:..' .:-hould be o.;jmpJe ill lit,~o.;ig.n. in cit:hcr ,iJ\'ef tlf gold dcptndmg Oil t lw C< 1lor

l

d. the a~.xomp;.m~ ing

it'\\ d~

\ monogram 1f

dl'.'i r~..·d . shnuld bl' d i~1.TL'L'l and \our 0\\ n , I )r~..·~.., bell:- arc di~tinguislwd either b' thl..' 'imuoth ~ ' dulled . . uri~K\'~ u( fine grained leather:-~ such

:1'

pin c.li nr

(,aby• caJI~klll , ur (rll!ll the :-.ubrfe ln~ter C:l~L from the luxun ~
l)r a lt/~1rJ ur bub} CTOC\'dilr. I lt''"'-'H·r. here\ the

I )ukc using :1 gtldl?d D-ring huckk· to drc'" do\\'11 hi'i .tll1g~

wr

W:ll!"t

p~1g~.·antr~ into ~ 'emi - . . pon bdt d1:1t .tCC
mo1\.' \\'ith hi' patterned u1'Ll11ble\.

mform3lil) TJke

nnh:'

,JC ho'' b\ h·eping tht..' nccktit:' mp bJad~ horr. it~ Ltnd,·r blad~.· h:1 ... L'th)u~h length to n~t..-k through the ll'p\ undl:r kll1P .1 nd sccu rL· rhc "hole arnmgL'IiK'IH lldHI~ nuo t lw \\.li.,th
l\..1

wrn riiL'\Jrda

inll" :1 mini -ponraillJre ot-~L'
The D ukc 11ppom ritl..l; his 11'11 isr as tml}' he mttld (Set" also rl1r bMrom ~(p,zgc JcitiJ

] E \~I ELR'(

"""'-"" mce \ Ktonnn run~~..'I} li·dt men lta\l.· tt'rllk-\f tu ~1\ ord all bur the Illl''-l di!-CI'cct .md u ~.•rul 3cce,snrte \\ nh the cx(;e.prion of £he finger ring. 111.111' Jt ,,cln· has bc~n 1:nhercd b} function the

lll\Hll'\

dip tic dip. Cl'lllar pin. kcr ch:Jill, ndrlud''· si111T scud, .md

tll't. dccor.nivc ~~cond I l:lllC'I .:"

\\<.::<11'

\\Tt\t\\,nch

:1rc llliliraria11

quit~ an armr L)( iL'\\dl'} \drill Hit

.,.,-

thl: !unit' ofgol1d u.;rc. ~

In pre \\urld \\~1r 1 d.n ...

hip

1

lla~k

:1nd cigarl'tre c1sc were con,idcred e.s.se1Hial :tcccs

~oon~!l; f~w .1 ~ t.'Ct:lCJ'.lllon d mr bel ic' 1..'d a d ri 11 k hd~WL' :u h.~ a ci\'arct rc .:tl"tcr \\ere ~

f\\ n

n ( t h"'·

rl1 I'L't'

bc.:-;t

rhmgs in Ill~'. I he demise of wbaccu h:t~ 'Li~nHHizL·d C'\ en 1he mnst ~l} Iish of smnking impk·me11L'. \\ hile rlw tl.1~k ha' gone rht: ''a) nf tlw ''"niL 'lick. (h,nhe ntntttcm. 'L''- 1~ -rill in fa!'lti,'tl.)

The 19~Lh re\i\cd rhn:-~ fc" :-;Jnctinnl;!d ill'tlht.l(,dt"-cmbc!II.,htnL'nt th~H Cl•tdd:'ignit')

l'r cui"!" link~

rhc \\l.'an:r husinl?'' and .soc.al srattl". \\'idt tlw rerum \\Ti't

u . . ptndcr~. thl:· Ct.,llcett'r\

or pockcn,:tiCh. and 'deer'' riring in:-LniiiiL'llb, lllnrc men bccmw cofltYTl'r' 1.1f' image

JC\\dr: rhnn in <111) other pcrir1J p( rhc Cl?lltlll'). l.HE FrNGER RING The rin~ ~

I I!'PWHI!i

llll

rhe 111<1lc l.itwer lwQan ~

~,

IL"

~

linked th . .·m tl1gl'rhcr into :1 necld:Ke <1 a ft,nn of (1t1Tl'IIC). The the1~ .t., uf(ici..tl "LJI:-, and b) the l'nd n( th~.., \Iiddle

\\IHl

R.~,,mnns u~~.·d

Cl\iltt.cd ~.-~nxr amon~ th ...· <..~rt'L'ks

•md

I

l-

\gr:"t nug Lx·c..ullc ~o pt1rular th,lt· dTerc \\l.'rc 1.1\\., lt11biddttlg ~cn ­ tlern.m "ith Ittt k· ur 110 pr~ >pcrty aml men bch '" d lL' r.u 1k n( k11 iglu-

h, td w \\ ~.tr one During the hue Rcnais,ancr. the an '-'

o( heraldnI

amnlduccd a\\ hlllc raft<'( "ignc:l rillg · crcstul "ith 1he 1!11nil~ cnm nt" .trm

J(ld:l) fr.ncnlit} pin' and sdmul rill~'~ Gtrl) ou thi~ tr.tdition.

Hel~lrc \\ orld \\ .tr II the double ring \H:dding ccrc>mtJll) \\ :1" a rar ~

bm b) lhe middle Jl)'\0~. ncar!}

at

b.lnJ, h.1d ll'\1\l'd tht: old -\\llr!J pl.nmum band

lJO

l

percc11t u( t\mcric.m lm:'

CUsr0111

or \\Caring

get! . .!

01'

\'i l{w linger jewdr~. lc-.~ is ttstt:lll) Jlllll\', l:'p~.·cinll) Pll }L1ttllgL:r men.\\ l10

should 'ilh:k wirh "implc.u11dc.:t·~t:JI1..'d lllnmmr.:nt.

\k t\.' or·n.m:• lllllll11rtrn.II im~er 1ingo; haH:' ah\~1} s het'll cnn.,.i...lc.·rcd 1

gaudw .md .1

'OCIJtt.'
met I " ho mnk~ a II\ ing h) c• Hllltli~sintt.

( )rg.mt/ 1tic '11.11 ring:;. d,p;, ring . or ~ignt"t. fa mil} ere' I.•md mtltt.ln rm~ t\ lt~h

Jlr~

Call

bl· \\Ofll

Oil

either h.md rhc

'lglll'l ri11g j,

011~

the !)imple \h.'dding band o1· Jl''' dl·r·~ ring. \\ ht:n cngr.l\cd \\ nh the \\carer·~ imtials. H ~uggc~t th.n nne could rtl.lllH' ltl

h.ul from t:h.n 'iJdc (,f tht: rmcb \\here hi~ forcbe.u·-, r:11led up('ll their ll\\ n c.1l to notJrizc corr~pnndcncc nr pared )tttl.llld

Rogtirt iu douMr. ringtd undt·rst,lfr.urrnt

f

---rhc golden age ofjewd') '' orkman~;.hip '\pauncd rh~·mid ninctl'clll h cctHllf}' LO the beginning of the 11rst \~'orld \~m~ \\ uh the later an nomc.m and

CU FF

LI N KS AND DRESS

dcco pcriud:- aJ,~) prvduci11g

:ll'l

JE \VEL}{)·~

'0111C.

r d,l)

G'\lr:turdinaq dt:sign and craft lUJJF•hip

3

patr of

Fd"ardi:111 cuiTimk:' or an ('.lrl)' l:anicr t:mk \\atdt afford.~> a man one of the fe,\ opportumuL-.: 1• anuallr ~pnn an ~.mtamcnt of be:HII) nnd antiqttil) "it bout e1iciung Lhc di. apprm mg luql of hi "·~.,hun-. JZ~.·,\lllllling some fanciful tale tracing th,: it~m\ origin or rccallmg n.s cdcbrnn.>t.i

U\\ner

011 h ~nhat Kl':-. the nn .sriq1 1L' of a s(Yntll..11tn nd cdlenibll.!. '

I

It lw~ bc~n -.:1iJ that ward1i11g a gt•nt undf1 ltts cuff links i~ D.R £:..\ s 1 =' c n n 1' l ~t.l'\

t'\C'f}

bit J~ ~cu~ual Cc)r a

\\oman as (nt' ,1 m~m tu hc
rorm ur shinsk:e\ ('closure drl'.S~L'~ n 111:111' hand hcll.:r I hnn (] \\ ell-fiu~d I J"('IlCh cufr ftCCC'lllJt'd b) the ~ubth.: glaJnc1uruf it' buaunlwlc cu\l"ring lit1k. The mosr prl/cd c:·mmpk·~ pfcuf(-link ilJ'I h:l\e :1lwa~ rdt("d on .til J(:mrstdt:-' we

lll\C\

tht·ir (T~lrt~nnmship and lineage. -1(, Cull) l!xpklit tht> cufflink\ d~carari\e potenu.tl ~.~ach ,idt·

shfluld bc:1r :1 de~ign and connect with a chain or link, 1 he rcnson iris \Cl nnmed. \\'l:anng ruff link' Lhat clip on one ~id~ c.-..:posL' the supcrstrunure. and sugge t rou could afford unl) thr \!Old l)r ...~cm.stone ._

on the nur.;idc. ThPugh it i~ admitrcdJ) ea~icr ro lmk rrcnch (uff \\ 1th a bar

that pushc' rhrnugh

..

it."

four

burr,)nlwk . . on I} half of each hand L'nd ... up cmbdln.hed \rnund

19)1.

along ''irh the nc" backdrop of Palm

Heach·, \\'lllle di1111Cr jad~t·r. drcs:"- .sn1d!' and matching cuff lml..s

\\ irh colorL·d '\toties crL'atcd a .s.rir. CufC!inh \\ iLh brighr. colnrfi.~l 1·L1btc'. l'11lcr:1ld.:-;, (.)J' ~.tpphirc... arc. ,uJI cnn~idered h 10 o~rent.ttiou!­ lor d.1\. wear ;,nLI n:sen cd ft)l' aftt:'r-dark ~.-erL·mnnie". ~lmncr nr

Ia tcr c\ en "cll -d rc•N.:d man should :-~cquirL'

all

:muyuc !'~Ct l",f

'llld' \ pmpL'I' drc:-' set nf jcwdf} include:- ~ pair of douhle .s1dcd cuft" linb t\\ o or rhrL'I:? marching .:-hin n~t·k and nu tc\\er rhan rhrcc w:ti.stcnaL button . \ n \ mcncan tJwcmion. rhc 1ie hnldcr or da~p
llr cum rolled llouri~h. t\ tic dasp b.·tp~ rhc tte undl!r crln

trol. preventing. it (rnm tbpping in the breeze or :tcling a-. a n:tp

kin while dining In additif,n. a(fixing dw til! t'l rhc .. hin\ from

helps 1('1 m;1itlt:lin the tie·~ arch in th~? ncckband Tic bar al~0 ~tdd ~1

lllC:lS LII'C

of" p.lll:lChl' l~"lr tht'.~·C ... hm·tl~f men\\ ho

Ct)lll' tn .. hnlh.i" till(' their

ll\)ll\L'I H>ps. :1

JllU!-1

lllCk their

b I rrJ \!-rarr~. \hm}

~1 nt:t onac.h'=" c:111 t thctr" dlw•n" ~1rd ro ~,rTc(l .1nwrc ca.;u.JI .tir In the .,j,uc:-. tie d;.·hp~, em mto dedme becal~'>C the ,t\ ABOVE :

Canting tltt' tie clip d!lwnward cfficrs a casual elan attd att ecceutrif charm. OPPOSITE ·

Cary Gram iu ll'l'il:flrtt'd rrctrch cr!ffs.

J 1 ~h wider nc \\,1-.thrcm n offcentL'f"hen clipped to the ~turt

-lL,d:J\. nc~..·krie bar.' $ht~uld hL '-tmplc and under-.ratcd. though a wl 111 n,tl":ll (\IlL' ~.,.·:111 add .1 bit of irrc,cvencc r,l the haghbro"

TIMEPIECE AN D \i\l IZI T\J\IAT C 1--1 E

un u11a t ely. 'h' h~n e 1110\ ed be} t)IJd the Victnrian taboo on publtc da~pJ.n, o( a tnnl p1cea.: (.1 t niL'

,

~

-'

(1

DRf!• .'d" l; T fi

[T

gent Ieman \ cnnccnh ''ere nnt 'lii'PCI"icd to include the pa~~age of rime) On 1hc uthtr

h.1t11..l:· till· ac.tor Peter ( r·ItHllt: 111.1} h:n t: rarried thing~ a bit 1;,o i:1r \\hen qu~n('d J t, ,,In ht• ~pun l'd .1 '' :nch 1J11 b0t h "rist'. ht? rcplieJ. ··1 1fc J:o. lOt> shon L"O ri~d· ".1'-Ung prt.•nuu. . "t'u"~Jhi~ gl.wri11g :lt Llw \\run~\\ 1'1.1\t.''

M A I''

Ll rl

r L'l iLllll't l C rcq I ti rl'd l he pnd{l'l \\:11 ch I() :lCLO Ill pa fl~

I he I a ilcn,H. \\ l:nll' .1

thlll drt''>S

''~1t~.-h ''~Is dl'l.."tnl'Ll ·1ppn)pri:H1.' ~~~rdillltl'rl·lutht:'lnrdrc ~i~J·dm \\ear ·1 h~:1tt.1Lhcd ke" clmm ~lth.i pnch•t \\:ltch :Jchtc\n.l C\~11 t,r~.·:ncr 'i:-ibilit) during rhe Lhintc' a' n hccam'"• thl; umfunn ~~)t' l'hllh ~.hl) .tnJ C\L'ntng \\~:1r. (~cl·lh:tprL·r 12... , nrm~lh\l!ar Hbck and \\ hitt: lttqueltl' -)

l )nc llll'asuremcllll'ra Lirncpiccl·\ qu.tllt) and drc . . -.int'·.~~ hit~ thmnc :-. L nf."'~rtun.Ih.h

mam men \\Car I)ick Tr~K) 'LJied "risn,:ncltc!- '' idt bu!-inc..... :o-uiL' (.1lnug, ''Hh drc~ ,h1n \\hlhL

(li(J-:.

.ll'l'

t:itht'f

[l10 :-lhH'f

t>l' ltll1 !till'('

at rhc \\l'i,t). 0H?r!cizc \\3tCht:' do lnde for

man\; m cr.11l

lhl'

:-n• h:dlll~'' .md ~uch t:ncum

bran(cS in\'ariabl) !lcccfcrall: the (m, mg of

rhe <>hin:, cttii 1 '(

Ll\\

cout~l'. th~· lwlum~

h.nc the1r

n a~rcnda \\ ht:n it come~ tn "n-.r d 'n'' 0

\ lrhough thcr Jon·t general!\ faH'r t ht> f-rench l'll f( thC) do like thru· barrel cuff, [I) fit . . nugl~ .u d1l \\ n..,l . le:n ing lml >

for

:Jll} 1hit1(1 .;::,

but the mo

t

slt"udcr

"risf:\' ;uch Iral} \ {)\\ n .. nukl· ~,.,( \~ inJ'l'r" l~i.mni ~\gndh. cro,\nl.'d the -Ral..l' of' rilL ~

Ri,ier~l..

back in dw I<)~Cls h.t . . het·n "·on

t r~n t.llJ'ng

proto~uL -..tnnri.1I and nthc !'\\ N

l~lr 3' Ion~ 3!' am ('Ill' c.m rrmcmbcr · \\ '' '-'

.

c1do.. rc.-.nhPd Ihi~"·ummdrum h1 "}'h'H·ung his \\4ll~h rn e1· his ... htrt \ufT alil'f "lud1

all lt:ll)

r~l\)k

m'lte.

L_

~_j

-~------

----

----~-

THE Bl1LITl>NNIERE

n JX"hr~ -:ocic~ of timner da) ... , the w<.·aring '-l .1

IJpd tl~l\\t.•r \\J.S a"} mbo1 of gnKiuth lh ing ..1 tnburc n., the bd\ un •\ llllf arm. a'" dl a~ to) t..'ttr hL':-t or ho:-t · ~ .. 'h•ar....t~l'' .. it

\\"3.'-

rwthing C'"X(~:'pti\'ll.tl to ~et: ,, man

"t'Jrm~ ... .t bnlHL1tmicrC' loda). (:~dw-r rh.m 11.1\ oring the odd l.1pd ~.l( an -old b<..1) .. ar .. n·· c · 'omc ~nlwr clitl'

r"'1pn..'lom cuming ttpnn t u' t~trnwr grace 11<..'l t' oi male rcltlll'JliUH l' ,1 J":ll"lr\

\ fC\\ blade . . abom ro" n :-till in--ist on m.tin tJtning lhc Pkl . randlrd' b~ not appt.•aring in coaL

.tnd

'!Uns.nnrr :\~'' )brk an:i'l .md d.md} Richard

lfl.'

\ lcrkm

1'

ont• of the h\."lldour'. ]1

'i

.1~

rllt:' . . uit.:'.... "cit

brl.W>l puc~d '' .1 ... dc.>rgnt'd m hold a pocket Imndker

dud· d.ttl'

.1

rlh.'

l.tpcl bunonhok· '' ns nude m :KLC'm ll1l)

flm l.'r \lthou\!h n bouronnicre is no l~m~cr ~ '

«.:xpcctu.i or

C\iCI1

comt:nrionnl

to&l).

111nn· tim~s

th.m not, tht: mau "l1o ian>r~ one u~uallr (ulr-ill-; rhc

__________________ _

pmmi c: l,fgcnnltn sugt.c..,ted b) 'th:h cu~tum. ltk~

..__

the ronccalcd oJIIar button. the stem

of rh~ lapd b lUtonniL:re hould l ~ im i.;iblc. ·rop ~dra\\ "~r dudlL'" are Fim·dwd with mg dct,ul required

[0

proper!} 't.1gl:' the J41pd

rhe J.h•.i.<:f lt.·ft l.1pd of nor lc,:,' rh.lt)

inch

1

fl1)\\

dw~t· L:1ilor

cr\ prL'~('ll[altiun · a\\ orking buttOllhuiC 011

tn len~th

:md

~1

loop t)r rhre1d to hok1 Llll' flo\\cr\

tt.•m on thl.•lJpcr-- undcr.!'ide. Rc!-l't pinning. .1 flower ro the nut-.idc l'r rour bpel. rcgLu"t.11e . . ~ rlu

'-'ct.JillCOl,lOn lr

nor onl} make_, }ou look lih· :111 u. her at

tlc \\cr 1 \\c,trmg \llll If}Ollr J~Kket L..11111ot propl'rl}

j

wl'dding. i1

.lppL·ar!' ~1s

or

if the

~WC
no

~n'e going t'llt of )Ollr\\3\ m Jcm 'Hsl rm~ tt

bouronnicr·c natur.III) .llll':l(t' Lhe ere. iLs '~'rill shuul\1 b~ \.k·rlftt·d siillpl} .mJ Jt,t lltrth rht.• bl.."'i flm, crs arc rhos(' tll.lt prm idl' a p.l n In tla r spu t nr hl l t lOll o( (l}J ll m:-. I. Ii kc th~o.•mtm carnatrun ('f rh~,·ornflo\\l'r J'hc . mnll c:mwrion\ b;l\;e i"tt:' im., mw.t l.tpd bntt•1111Jt.lk·~. Bt:(Ull'ol:

th~

''l11k •t' tl'"'Crt~ nor:so l.trge a"i tn mrn\hdmthc.J\t:r.lge "tdrh lapt'l. lk(au.;t.:• it' b.l'l' em ~•t in rht" butronhtllc: \\nhmu H~ stem h.nlllg to be 'L'Cutt~d in dw buttonl11)lc gu.trd. n .tg.lin r rhl: l.1pd L

'-

c.111

rl.."~t flat

TIR·n· '<·em . . robe an imprc ~•on 1har the \H.'.tnng \)f bm:h ~ polkct sqt1.1re .md bnu rnmlh.:n.· t t.hc cqtm,Jlt·Ynofgildmg the Iii} Thi aberrant nntiou i~ 'uppnncd b) ncithC'r

aflL)

n.tl tndttJL'n nor ht tllnc.1J pracncc 1£ 1 pcrft:ctl) proper to \\C.lr hl'th .1 pucker h.mdkcrLhit..f .mJ .1 flo\\L'f :.c. t \ aden.ccd b~ mnn~ of the gentlemen in tha~ book

f

TELLIN G TA J L. · Tl-1 E F-I I ST O RY

ht.• m~'ldcm rrrilco:u ".1:- inaugur.ncd b) th'-· l.mmu" ( ,eur_;e Bq :m -ncau Brummdl \\ 'bile lHhcr g~l) t.bndie!' or!Jis ci:l}

..,.,-!

-~

Dlt.L.'>.S IN G 11-I£

\\()J"C

colurrul CU!It.!- and breedll~,

ft)ft.'\l'lllllg

dk t..:llltlh:ll[ \Jr

Bnlllltllell d{11111ed a nav~ blur ~m:1lhm Lail co:H bl:1d lm.:'ech\:'". \\hire wa1 tcu.n :md .,_hin •11l,11g with .1 "bin: ned. doth :u1d ,1 () i tlt.:h 't :1 rclwd CtJII
a:-. rhP (bnd; dcrintt iH·. all l.tmdt!Jlel·~ lUJ'llCd t1• '0111ber dmlw~ ancl h::~Hm't loL"I·cd bad *\in.:l..' The t:1ikoar h:1s ch:mgl·d 'en litd,• sitJ(•• it: ori~inah.·d

AI"' I"

L·

p:t n

or dtc cigh ..

riding.

it!'

ll'l'lll

I

..._

:.1!'1

a ridingcu.H dunnol:' 1he l.~ner &...

h lTllt II n. IkGHISI.:' I t.s II Hlg.... frulll'' prm cd rumhcrsnme fbr \\ afkmrr ,}'. \\ dl J't ~

~

th.:uthlc~hre:lS[t::d llli.Xicl \\as (lll baLk. I h~..· llWdrrn

taikom dnt•o;, nut hunon

Ill

rrunt

and -:till t·..:·tnin~ rhrce buun11:-. on cnher 'licit.? o( il ·._honer front'' uh a \.Cilt .md buth n~ llll the; b.Kk. :1 'C!'t ige llf a tim~ when tIt~, '' ~~-...~ u"ed I

~

...

h..'

attach a\\\ ord or Gutt(m back rhl' bon, 1m of thr

ro:H when \\alkingnr ndtiH.!. ...

, \' tlJt.'

quill l l.'S!'C'tlliaJ ")

mbnl

or the l.ngli,hman'!-1 1:11110U~ formnllt)

tbl\

gannt•Jll rcpr~

..;cnt,:.; rhe ..::--am smndard ~cr by dh.: Briti"h gemlt!man l(x m.1lc elegance \llth.n \\a'l nt:t!dt'd \\a'-. (,x the t:liiPr to appl) 1t.; pmpl)rt illtlS m rhl! '' L'
i(' 'tar~

like Adulphe \knjL)lt, one l)( llnll) "t)ud\ l{·:1ding p:tragons of l~n.hion

TI-lE TAILCOA T

iko:u-. "ere orKc akin to Fords it

\\':1!'\

a puim o( pride d1•1t the modtl sddmn changed

Cu t ()11 :1 ~Lraight lin.: to rhc knee" idl the rn1Jll llni,hing abom cllc hipbnn~ the r;ulcll.U fit ,_

..;nugly ro the chest ~1" rfir \\ere· buttlllH:'Lt t\ man t)(~,,C'r3g'-· hcighr IL>ok:-o hc~t in a tailcoat fca wring sun~~..:· fullnc'' :Kro•"- the elk 'L lr~ obligator: jX':Jkcd lapl·l~ !-hould nor be -limp~ Ill

bn:~<1d t h and should be C1ccd in ci l her ,Jl k grn~grnin or s:H in "irlu1 cloth Lollar: The j.l(+~t \.had,

~hmdd rc . . t about :.minch bch.lw 1he bend t)f thl..' knc·e Tl!t: side~ t.lr rhc coat (Uru· "hglnh t'\cr tin.· htr"· running down tl") the r.uJ, "ith norhing but dw ~.lik,r':- m,} .. tt..•rtul ~et unobtru.sJ\C

lclwth I:'

an

lO

hold d1cm tu the f1gure ThL· coat's o )lbr should em cr LllL~ shirt f(lllar':-; rear "nt~.1 :md the 1\'ar b:md ofl.,(l\\

rc\C:lling aLica~r :1 ~~ mch

lh:' '' IHir

or rlw \\ ingct)llac \Vhcn,,IH? j, d~liKing \\'lth dlx'\\~ r.1i cd tht t:h'Jlfl~

. . nnt pull up rr1 rL'\ La1t 11c ":li,TCO.ll" · · "1\.ll' ~ · J l1,:·'~·I IIll_· -~1 ·1 h.· drl.:..'' • L-oJr· fium pvi nt .. h mid fin• .. '

(\),11 nm~t

- 1·1111..' ~\.) t Il
shin'.-.

arl..' cut narro": ) L't not

~n

· " ".:1.1:-. r L-o:n c;-.1"L•nd' bdl l\\ 11 l1lt: ttuk Mt ' pan 11 1· 1I1t, " Illtt: · ·a~.-~d.>lil m' ,lhr • the:-\\ tt.··hh t ( __thL· innnal mpcrcuJ 111:11 r1lt:). t.:.mnot • 1. Ill)

'l~lrdR~d ~mglc cuff. Th~ir k·ngrh .:-hould bc ~lwrr enLmgh to .1lkm

:1b1 1ut ,\ 34 inch. Th~ j~Kkct ,:o;lt.:l'\ (.' c.trric t~'llr l·I1N.h ,, t button:'

the ~lun\ L''l.dt hJ t:\tc:n..i

0

THE DRU5 VIAJS:TCOAT" S POUlTS 5HOULO MltVER PTEHD B"E'LOW THOSE

0,. "TH£ 'tAU-CO~

tME 80¥ fQM QF "ft4S TAILCOAT SHOULD UNit UP Ym"H "ff..U~ BACK 0~ A fot.t.M' S KN££.

Frtd n tilrs a .d~~ris 1'f'st deng red or~l .jttr rlu' l,rmcc of\\ . ale;

_

1

THE FlJLL- Dili SS \¥AISTC0 1\T

ormul drc:·"' dtcr.Ht:' a ~ldrdwd \\hire bir.. r ~~} c b.Kklc (piqul.:) wai~tr ~uJr 1n

etdwr smglc- or d~..mblt! brcn.-.ted dc:-ign. The most rradirional

mudd '' the . ine,lc-brea~rcd ~h.t\\ I collar '' i 1!1 l h n:~..·· b111wn do~ure. The .... b tnL!m edge" of dw dn•-., \c-.r·~ lapd, c.111 either be ''-lll~lll'. wundccl or blum~d.

'\ 1rl1 rhe front gcnc.r;lll} cndi11g in t·wu

S} lllllll'tric1l

point:-.

though there.-.., orne tlc:-..:tbilil) lterl\ as detlll'll'•trmL'd b) ~ l r. h'p I Jar. \\'lutt.· Tic.•md faib him,..elf rrcd .t\swirc llcre lw sp~1rt:' a rcp!tca o( rhl· 1

model dut rht:

r~.l) ..tl

.)hin

m~1ker llm\c~ ath.l <:uni:--

h:lL1 dc\nc up

(jall~ it"'r I fa-, I fighn '"'· rhc Prinlx of \\';lll·'· which ••t~ legend goc1'1.

polncl) rdil'•eJ ro m:ake for ~ Ll-.r~r Freel. The dn.~-.:- \\al~tcoar·.:- dt:cp ~\'~ c pening must bt· ('lit

c~pe­

Lh
roper ~

i~(ll\lll tix ir' narn.m from ro co' ~r rhc .)hin ·~ bib from bot rom

.md

tn)Us~r::

\\ai ·rb.md "irhour irs

bt'1 ond the t.11ko:n ·=- end pnmL'-. -~~)

l'\'

n

bt)lfOlll CXLt:111..Hn~ ...

prt!\'..:'111

the

't..'~t

!'rom

pullmg up. tlw cur recti) tailored' crsion provided :1 f;t~l'('ll

ing lJb rh.n huttoned LO rhc trt1Uscrs' in:-icl~ ''~li,rbamL --~-

Fine arc:ss I'£'.StS lzmlf a tt1b rlwr 111 ~rzdres to tlte trousers.

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Nothing so quit-kl}' gil'es th!! ll'dl dressed ma11 a11 attach ofrlz,· 1'apvrs as the sight
1

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FULL- ORE

:til,,rcd 1i·um mntdting cloth the dre's trow•t•r reqwrc" along~r rh.m tll)l'lll.d ri..,c .111d ·'li"J'C'Ih.h?rs 10

'It

pt'i1pcrl) undl.'r the htgh rut raiknal Jnd

'hon ,,.~i . . ted drc':- ,,..,.,L It \\,lsn·, ltH'Ilothj,,g that l\1enj,lu rnlo2d hi-. amt•hmg r.tplt) It Ti.1ok Ni11L' Tmlws. <.)b:-t:rH' d1e height DRL,Sl·''·· 1 1/f

M ..\ N

,,r his w.ai:.;tcoat

\\hich h~lp-. sets.

the -;tagt· ~~~r the !.""u\ttrme'~ ~ublittw propnniL'Il" lligh cl~ts!" drco'

!lllgk·d th~H' pl~ab t'OW:Jrd I h~ 11) lll tiistriblllt' the 11ll·\\ :trJ with \'Crrical Ull "\t':ll11 side pocket$~() .lS Tlt)l '1"(;1 dJS

1.1\lllsCI's LI.:-LI:lll)

rul!lll'.SS

turh rhe ~..-n:n':- line ·dwuld :.1 lll;lll

dHH'SC

ru Llt i 'U~l a lmnd imo om•

lul l . .IrL '' tTou:-cr' !lt\.~ cunl~.·!':-. brL·ak .sl igh d) :u 1h~.· in!'tt:p. and :-htlllkt be 1rinmt~.·d "id1 l\\ l> ll:tiTLl\\" plain braid, set dnse together

THE FORMAL DRE SS Sl1IRT AND BOW TIE

h~ I~Jrmnl dinnci· ~h11·t j..., another item th~lt hn.Jt'b no de\ i ~ll1011 rrolll

tradition Dc.;lgn~d ro run her ren Ill' dw \\'C:lrcr ·s \ jo,;agl'. ~

~

ir lcawres a ~nff (prdcrablr !'cp~1r~uc w nnal'h) high~~rnnding wing cullar. a stilT bib front th
:K((llllllll)datc.;

either one or t:\n.l ~md~.

(dcpc.?nding \.Hl th~ wean~r\ height). and ~l.lrclwd ,jngk culf-;. ThL' \\ tdth

or the 'htrr·~ btlSl)lll, ~1 biblikc Jc~ign in boik·d plain

linent'r ... uiT pique. L:'o\ nor rt' ~xtcnd under rlw 'li'PL'Ild~.:~r .... rr:lp~. ''hilt..· tL"

length lll't:d~

'toP shnrr Llr d1L' trtlll'-t'l',' \Lll~tbaJh.l If It' ··Ol;lrchl'd t"rt>UI \..!XlL'i1LkJ ITlLL""~ tltL tfl1LISl'r~' wp ..... ''hen a lll:tll .snL ~h)\\'11, ir \\(JUld bill(m like .1.s~1d 111 l-ull\' ind, Ltke dw dr~~s \C\l , rlw \\Cll m:1de (ornllJI ,!tirt lm-. .1 tab th:H at'IJxcs to a dc~ign~Jtcd burron on the tmu ...cr,· iw.;idc ''ai..;rb:wd. ThL' set l11. the ''ill~ (11ll:1r .tnd bl'" til' j.., h·} h' thi.:- t'n-.embl~\ ... lO

prL·or~.bined ek·g
the neck. the dramatic "111g n~lbr nc~.·~.h to sh1l\\ 314 1/

4

ind1 ~1bu\C the taiko:n\ rl":tr ('l'lbt: or

inch mnre th~1n thL' s~mi (urmal Lllrlh.ln" n

t:"ulbr !'hirl \\ hcther in •qn~lc

'L'I11j

hut tt·rll)

The llc:ighr l{tlzr taik.,at ~

ll'aistliur is rile: lmdzpiu L"!fthis tuscmblls disrinctf,•c clrgaucr.

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• •

• • •

FORJJIIL\V

A PRtlPERLY MADE DINNER SI·HqT HAS A -AB THAT f'ASTENS

~0

THE BOW TIE ALWAYS SITS IN FRONT OF" THE WING COLLAR"S WINGS .

THE TRO\JSERS

,.0 KEEF l'r F"ROM PULLING UF

nr ban\ mg !o.hapc £he \\hiLL' ptque hem\ elllf, nrc :tl\\ a)' "OJ'n in fn,tll of rhc \\ ing cvllar tab.. 11('\l."r bt:hind rh~m. \~i(k· fn..1111 the 1:1ct th.tt th~ ~tiiC" ing' nl· the •lriginaJ :--cpa rate cullar"' t"ould ltt'h'r h.n\:

tlt 0\~r th~ kncJttc..:\.i b(m. d1c t:tb ··'Pring hdped to push the bm\

l'ie lt)l"\\ m\L

\incc thc.,c 'rud'. ~Lra~.-·. :wd bulliOn~ lll."t'd tP be precisclr lincd.Ltp. rln: ,,J,itL·-ric ki1 ~\.·unto

be .omc torrn tJ( \ ictnrian Gund:1g~o.•.

the L"0IllT<11'}. "hen npprupriatd} wi ll'rl!d the outfit i c.urprisingl} coml~1rtable.. \ 111.!. 11n1 h.t\'ing I\) \\\'lr'f) .tbmrr tlw ck't h\.·s :-.t.t~ i11g put .1111.111 \.",111 rd.1~ .Uld LU1K~lltrare Oil 11101'1? import:"! Ill thing~. SliCh a:- tilt' J,,C:HitHI n( the b.ll'. twght

T(J

STUD ENSE

m C" lmg m .1 mnLching ~et of am iqul' drc.: ' '-ltl(.l~ l.:r:d·t cd during the l.nc 11 i IWl\:'\..'11 t h lW ~.:·.1rh

t\\t"nth.:th

~l.·ntuq 111 U1L:ttJ1c.r

l..,f

pearl 1S knr.H gnld tlr !..ltht:r pr•"!CiLlli.S

\\JJ'Il·uat t~m11JI birtfrLHlt and L.uff '' ould be lllUilC\

~J"L'Ill

llllttl•rial:;

it•r tit••

~.:lrcss

..,lim guld pn..:kt"·t w:uch "it II tint." le} ..:h.w1 \\OUIJ "'mgmcnt 311} l(:u-m.II prt.''1Cllt:11ion Cnmpleti11g the piourc. dn:.-!' . . ho:-ic~q 1muld Iw bl.td••tbn\~ the calf m ~·U· or"' f1111.: nblwd Llll ron li·dc" irh or\\ it hom dncb I ur for m.II1~1Ut\'.l.H~ opt:r.t pumps or plJm tnc oxJC.rd~ in bl.lck Gtlf or pat em leather nrc m.mdarcd \\ dl

,\

llt:oJlhH,lropttorb mdudL' thl' n,IJ,Jp~tblc "!ilk opera h.u or top hal pJircd '' 1rh .t ~inglc or

doubk bn:.1 t<..'d drt: dH...~tcrl1dd (l\t.~rc.ocn

111

bl.lck or midmght blu~ \\ ith matching \l'h~r cPII.u:

--( )b\ ii)IISJ). :111}

Cll:lfVs'l)l"n

--

ror ~~-~nnal\\ 1.'~lf lllll"il DC lung L..'llllllgh to CO\erthe tntlcoat b

l1 Jtll

\\hldl

ts ''It) thc·Iungcr thl· man\ coat. th.: dn:ssicr it wnd . . tolr)l)k Pt.:rh.1 p~ d 1e mw. 1 , 01gm: 0 f.111 tonnal ("l>.ll

j,

th~..· ~light!} .shorter lcng1h .. \

11h:.l)JC'

single hreasted, A} from modd \Hth r.1gtm-,huuld

r:..

peal.cd Ltpel.s. ~ll1t..:l n~hct cc1llnc \Vith \\hilt.• bnKl'llllnderne~nh and cc,rn:-.pnnd.ing ,,hnt tiL muf

fler.glml?' linen handkct\:hk{:md mmi carnatiou.s\\clleganrc ,8 ne\<:dnrbehmd

SEM I -FOlZM A LWEAR

DRf;,:.fNG

TfH ,\fl\1'

dol phc i\l~o."ll jnu "as once n~kcd "lu..:l hc.r Jk' though r the dmn.:r Jnckcr \Hmld endmt> lie replied, L1 ( cour...c iL "~Jllld . -.i ncc this Ia"' \ cstigc of upper-cia:-. drc~"' ''a a \Jnboll"'f gr.1

thar 11aid tribute tc1 tlw l:tth cic)tb lh ing ~ r J

l)ll

rour .1n11 :b \\ell LOth~ ~\cninu\ ~ o ho~r

\.s rhe n.llllL' :-11gge~r'. the ~:trl) dinner j~ckct cn~cmbk· \\ ClrJl iu rhc pri'
e~actl} dun a lcs

form.tl dmmg pf nne\ home or club The original d,•,ign \\.1~ cr~att:d dunng the \\:I\

nineteenth ccnrur~ ar the reque~t of thr rn~li..:h l'rin-:c (later h.ing) I dwnrd \ I) ,du

w.111 t~:d

a more ("Oilll~rrlt.lbk· :1ltcn 1:11 i\ t' 1(l d 111c i 11 rhau rhe ~w.11lo" rail c\ ening .. com \\ n b n'

bodKr'LlillC r.11L

I Icrc i roy:1 l wilnr 1\)nlc'.s ledger rccordmg th\? Prince of \\ales· origm.tl

order fnr rhc riF.S[ dinner jad.:.ct. The Ll1IlSC.ll'll'

j,

that the fu·,t 111Pdd

or

tillS

cur~ l( raJC:0<1f wa~ sm~lc ...

brc:!l !t~d "uh n

roll ("t1lbr· (shJ"l) in black wor~tcd \\t)lll "irh bl:lck silk l~cin6~ on the lnpl'l This same Jacket mo~lel had been sported._,, a scp~ratc ··~llH'kirrg jacket .. in . . ill.. 'civet b) dw I nglt-.h gemn Ir.. :-;ilk t:1ei11g~ \\cr~ lifted from 1hc Laiko.H' l.tpel'. \'icwri~m ladie_, did n01 -.moke and u1.1 tL·d

that their hu,bands confine

tl11 nnxillll.; .Ktr\il)

.md j
rh rough rhc early 1920~. bbl'k- tiL" au i rL' w:1s dt·emL'd ac("cpmblc in the pri' .1~..--, nf ones home or

dub. whcrc
10

acqmrc tin: nam~

··tuxedo,'' please r~fcr to the gJL,...-:ary lllmc,cr. the term "tll\.cdt.,:· ofren .lbhre\i
or c\cll

\\OI:..,c.

"tux.''

i1->

thankfulh•

oll1r111cd tt'

rlw L 11i1ed ~tah?~ l....~em·rJII}

tt

1~ cc~rrlYtl}

tl!nncd the d ir 111cr j
York. ThL·

produced mcll'"~,':lr·" 1-irst tiiH,(fici.ll designer Lhc Prinrc of \\aft·, later

Il)2.u:-

Kinu and c'cntualh· the IJukc l,( \\ in,Jq,r Llt)th~..·-. con~-:-iou.:- and t"t·

'

tktcrrninc~l to rhrnw

.1

bitl)l.tm.th'rtck he ".1"

orr the (()Urt-rllk~i ~wfflll~''' (.)r hi~ f~nher·.s gencr..

:1bd rem iun i 11 19 ~<'. the l'rinn· had '" "'rn ~ \ff t ht• bc.:)ilcd from

HIOil

l'\

I \("11 het~u·c Jt,,

cning ,htrt :md '~p::mll~ ~.uiT

\\in~ (nllar I~H· the more CI.Hllft,rtabl~· plc:H~.'d (wnt dinilL. .r 'hin "11 h ,t,ft_ :n1J-:hl;·d tlJntdo\\ 11. coli:! r I k· al.-.o piciiWl'l'ed the ba('kh.~~' r~lJ'lll.ll wai,tt"O:ll fun\l·ar in \\ nnncr diml':- g, rhc end 1)1 ~

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/J'R

.!.t I

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•

/

•

--

-

y /

L tltL'l
e

t !t.Cnll

-

,

.

-

11·---------------~--~--~~·--~--~

dw Prine~· cott:'rie t.1rrup1l i'\\d[., legging :1routtd in rht: h1r..

ti 1rnml trnpprng5. dw dinnl!r jnckcr bc.:gan 111 rc.:plncc rhe tailcllat. ?\:o other era could ha\c produced !lw:h ,1 .sart~.wial :-.ucces~. Em:h

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I

I·fmrr Pools ldgcr n:corJiu~~ rlu'}ir.st I ord,•r)or a Ji11ner TtLXt'.dn Jc•L·ker.

rt>p of rhe dinn.:r jad.er·~ C\OhJuun '' .,, mca,ur~d b)' rlw pertccrion 0C rhr outf1r H mtcndtd to rl.!pbce- the gmndl~nhcr uf 111.1le elegance. dw LailcLl3r ,md whill.· Lie

1\rno.• the culmm. .tnun of the dinner facket\ dc-.:rgn in the hue t~,no:-.

n1cn':-- f:1~hil1ll ha~ }'t!t to

unp•'o\e upon the gt.:nm" oCirs original Jc,,ign or the rtuimpe~Khablc.: rd1n~.·nwrlt flfits acc<.'ll tn:mcnt'J The nc" dinn1:r jacket pt'ojcrtcd :r lcH·I ol- ,l,H ltr~

;lth.i

---.

da. . s equal w rlt~lt of its

D I NNE I~ JAC I(ET DOG1vi A

, rill' dir~·cr

dt'.sCL'lldant l'f 1he r,1ikoat. th~ ~mgk·

ht\':l'•tc~..1 din11cr j~k-k~..·t \\ith up\\.u·d ~\\L't•ping pcak~·J

imc:'h

__ ., ,_ ' ., DRJ ,_\4 Nli

r11 r J\1 \ •"

:1ll

bpP1s

lllL'Il with pn,milleth·~ a11d height. \\'ith onh vne L

\\:ti-.t

bllllt)ll ltJ l!t.,IL'Il.

bLtlld

{~l CO\CI'

•

it lll'Ct'~sit:ll'l.:~ ~I \\~lisle

tilL' lr.t.Ht<;t'n,'

):11

Cltlll!lll'r

(tf

l'~p<•SCd \\:tisth:llld.

I nr thu~~..·" ho dtm't ohjvn to \H.: arillg tltl·ir jacket bur ..-

IClllL'll. I h,· dn11hlc bn.::·a,r~..~d dinner j~td,~..·t oiT~..·r, ,·qual di~rinc tiutl "llilc ~Hspen~ing \\ ith tlw :kldirinn ~tll:t)L'l't)l-:t \\:li~rcu,tt nr t..•ttllllllL'rbUJld . l'lallkL·d

b}

l\H)

nr

C.ll'(> '\llCiL'I) 's ll10fc ttOig_llC

'~..Hd' :tt\' ..;:uin r~·\l·n·J husb:llld l:ol~ 1\,ner (n~~ht)

\\ tdl Ill

" tl~·. LlllJa. ~mJ l),,ug Fai rba 11 k, Ir in gw-.grai n (, nen '"-

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I

CtlllY~} s

\ Vhilc dlL -.ILl\\ I CL)IIar dinner jacket

a 'Omt?-

" h:H mc..x~· 0ld-world i m~1gc than the peaked bpcl. the cu n c of irs l:tpL·ItL'Itd"

Ll)

t:n<.'r the

ITh1rL'

angubr ph}'iognmn) '-nll rhro'''


ABOVE

I ;lrh L'IT the peg Engli~h tu.\t:dll:- "~~rc I~Kcd in gk1.'')

Tlte S. B. dimwrjnckrt witI. ptaktd inpr:ls.

.s.trin \r unc polllL rhc ~m tl~..· Ru" t:Sti.lhlishnt~.·nt·decided th:1t· the'

lhtllcd ribbGti -..tlk pcdigrcl'.

gn.i.sgr:ltll

IIP\\e\'CI'. <1S

CL)IlW) cd

long a~

l)lll'

npl\

OPPOSITE

Cflle Portrr aud DClli_g fair.bauksjr u1 D B. Jwurr jaikm.

:1 111orc cus~-...)111- tailored

ror

:l

~ingk-

brL'.l't~..·d

llr

dnubk~

mudd trimmed

111 -..HIIlt '~" grosgrai 11 , ' '

ith cirhcr 'ha" I t'f pr..:::nkeJ bpd . . per

mancm 1:1:-;hion j, :b..;urL·d.

Dinner jackc-r modd, dur d~' i..ne fr~.. m 1hl:'"t' four cl.l''ic :u(lll't) p~s or boa:.;t ,uch inf@rnul emhdll',·h mcnh .l' rwtched l:a~"'d~ Pr tl.1p P'-Kket..., de' oh \! inw ~.tr ll..lriaiL'~rmort'llS . ..::cll1H11ming bod1 th~ f~•rm\• .ll''thcnc

l
ll'i n!'()flli\C

r

ll( rimcJt:'~~ dcg;tll((' ~

rhe \\holt;' idL'!l

tl a (nrmal :-uit '' t~l dt...,tingui~h it . . df fn.Hn L1 p~· I bu'i IlL'"' '-lll r. rw t rl' pl JC~H t' i r -I he babncc

0r thC' prop~r dinner J.h·kct \

ing t\'111illll't 1:111-1) ..:rr.1i,ghtfon' .1n..1- J
rl1L• not~h

"hi 1c Ii nl'n handkcn:-hief .md

;1

'' eh

dl't~ul

br~a!'t pulkl't i~ \r

\\l,)rkmg hutt\mholc un

the krr l.tpd m hold ~t bouronmcrc 1)oublt• be l~mt-d (jL·ttcd) hip po~..-ker.. can be eirlwr plmn ,...,r rrimmc:-d m thl:

s~1mc ,jlk a.; the lapd. like rhe raik~'Jt~ tht> 'lllgll: bm:t~h.:d ~..lirlllL'r j:tch·t t.1b.> llll~ '' ..... r ~1UHOil and fnur dlh~h 't't Nud Co mrrJ ill cr sht~wlt"ol1m· .mavit}'·

. -

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---':llt:c\ c bunons, "hich C1J1 cuher b~.: simple black hl•rn ur cm·cred in the lapel' ~1Ik facing (en her gro'-gntm or o;atin to match) incc mo~t formal aHatt ar~ hdd

111

dm1aLt:

controlled em 1rons. a finished or uniuw.lwd tmd \\l?ight \\Or~L\!:d (q'

2

to I O' z ounce~) huuld take

.1

m:Hl c01nfonablr through cl1r~e ea.sun" of d1e \Car

Like rhe tailc• •:u·, dinnel' dorhe.s arc trimmed in facmg

of, :tl) ingd L"gr~te~ ,,flu.,.rer, rhcretoJ(! so a llllt ttl mt:'r sr:w: the sheen quotient. th,; dinn~r jncl,et· bar ~h·uh

shuullf be in a dt died or m:llle fm1sh

ubtl · trxturrd

... "~a\ e cl leers such as barathe.Js and miw hciTingbtme:-

">r quit'L \:lri~?gared ~?!Tccr' moid afienar:wn '\hrJe

nddi11g surf.Ke ime rt:'~l m the fonnnl an,emble \Vhcn it comes

10

col<'r the bas~? \\ 1lr h.:d

cluth i:- limited to black or midnigiH blue In the ... t~gos , 111idnighr

undL'r

blue began to replace black bccau e

anilki:1l li~ht Lh~ dark blue retained it. richne:-s "hilL" blad ~

.sumcti mc.s g~,, c uiY n ruo;r nr a rrificta1 cast The term .. mtdru~ln blue"

conjured up imjgL'' l)( the -.hank nf rh~..· C'\Cning. ''hen ronmnce i.lnd r;Jmbultn·ic)U\tlc.... ~ \\C IT in l·ull .,, ing. \Vhile midnight blue dmn~r

I

I

I

cnal's orilTJnalh Ct 4

111ings

IOt'k

h
matchtng (:.Kings, bbck ~I\J!'>~fa111 or s.ltlll tnm \..

\,__.;

\..J;

I

"orn c;inn: (he rhirtic-..

Back i 11 rlw day' when thL' bon Yi' ~1m rcquirt:"d more tlmn CII1L dinner jacket. ir \tT~ton

W:l\ not

i11 llll)h;lir or

unusual rv find him d~..mning a lighnu~tght

:-;ilk. lixl.l~. rht• dulled sheen ofbab) mohair and

fme ,n,r'\fcd "no! i.s l111l' of the le\\ ra.. . rcfuJ c:-..ceptmn' roth~ rule that

norrnalk cuthtgn~ ~him dC'lrhc~ tn th~? parn:·m1 s1dt· of the track I lc.·rc •

~BOVE

1\

rtdniglu .bluefonnalwear. LEFT:

Signiorc 1\gud/i shiUt'S.

I

<.

Dl

l ER]

CKET _ LTE RN;\TI \ IES

"one .het·ml rhe ..or:i:1li.HI\.icr, wid1 :r' 111~1\'~lsin\'c- ~.lc·m,lllJ, ft1r ~..lr~..·~,

un, r

thL' t1d~..l \)r

cp:.~rar~ dinner pcket .,urfncc~ Paired'' ith rhc '-""l'll\'t'IHic.'llall~'rm.ll tr<.)u:-;er. thi~ nonmatching

1,tckt.>t ·un\.lgJtc: '' ofrt.:n r~'cnt:d ((u·le-. . .

'arintim1 ('111 rhe 'ch l't -:-. llH'king j:1ckct theme .wd t radit ionall)

.1

..

.

grand .1Hnir-. '' • !on~ a' ih dc~ign ronl(,rm" w

l)lll' l,r

mcnnoned L'~lrlier. n . . Elbric can illl'{ \\it h a\.h i?tlturc. c~c~ ll'l in~ the

..

1 cmdon hnusc w her .m ~uLing rh.Jril)t. our man }nirbanb:

"Pt'll~

dw I~Htr da~~i\.· mod~..·b

['ludlt.'SS

n(

"l'lll

rmn1 his

245

r () R ,\J A I, \V Elt

.1 .....Iun-f:1Cl'd 'ch·~..·t "Ill' 'king

1·'\·kcr and llll""~nogr.unnwd slipper 111 tm:. \A~cttng an oflb~ar apllJmb thar Lmlr dw gcnuiJlL' [n~lish tl,ff Glll mu~tcr. art i!'r :md phC\h1gmph~r

Beaton\ c

\\11

Ce -,) H•nton "quire' I~..·~ l~adzi\\':ill

to

the· I ngli .. h prcmicrt• o( G1m lkt\\ ~en

formal ~armtur~an i dll'ir mat~-.-hing "-'her (n,rb. the coupl,.: radial~~ gi:HllllliL

-

-

~-

-

~------------------------'-------,

LEfT

D. Fmrbauks ftJ 1•d~·ct smoki11g}atkct and monogrcmtmtJ slippas.

--

RIGHT.

Cedi Beaton drt55i7lgfor him(clf

-

--~-

Tl-I E I3LAC J(-TI E \\fA I. T

Ill undcrpi11ning ~)r high das~ dinth::r clothe" \\as urjginall) d~'-tgned to be in\J. 1bk

I )J"t''' ..:tud-.: hid the evening shin·~

slltli

ltolc'. :1nd ~ilk band~ cm~r.~d the formal trou.,.,·n· um

side -.e~lllh. r\'lllll\\ ing in the t:1ikn:11 ',:.; (l,<'l"lCps. l.-f6

tilL'

"ingle-br~a~tl!d dinner j.tcket rcquir~' tlw

:-.en icL's o( till' dress \ L'~t or (llllllllt:rbttnd tC'l (~llll'L':ll

l.

D R [ '1.'1 I ~ n 11. •' l A 1'>

bl,'-t.Hll :11 h. I

1he cxptlSL'J

ti'Oll'iL'r

;llld

smoorh ._,,crt hi! t"
"ni:..;t hand -1 he l~utx '' ai!'1band dre..,~ tn.)uscr not onh und-.>r

mint.·" 1hL· form"' Jlltt.:griry h1 11 lntlk' bush lc:lgliL', .. 10 bt)rrm~ a phra-.e from d1e d:J) . . "hen th1~ •I

lllH"Ci t

v nri~in~ul~d. ....

~

Tht> ~ingk brc~sted din11Cr jackt.•t with pL'akcd bpd!', likl" it~ taJio.lat prcdccL·"· ur . . , n \.·hn'ttizl.'s bcucr wirh the drc-..s \\:Ji!\tcn:n. -,incc the ,t. ,t'.~. lo\\Cr point" echo dw·c ,I[ the emu l.tpd~ .lhl'' ~

\\

h ~~~ dw sh~1wl ~ l:tpd d i nncr j.Kkct

Glll

~KCl)ITHnod:ue en her 'n lc of" at .. t dl·d-'r

rlw rumnh.!rbund\ '-·un C' h:1rmomzc~ p~trt~t.-ubrl) \\eiJ "nh the

Ia pd... rounlil.'d -.hapc. In ortkr w keep du:ah."'r ticket:-. .n the rca'-1). b~tter quali1) cummt.•rbund~ bme a little pn l.. ct .. tnd11.~J behind their dct·p~."!-1 plc::-~r. '' hid1 ~lh\ .1~-.;

IS

,\Jw the t·ummcrbund ....

\\urn wi 1h it' fold~ PL'i nri ng uP'' :.lfd 01'igil1<11 k. the Jmn~.-hing .. .... bla~.-k ''ai,tl'a:.u \\a· imper:HJ\t:

'' 1rh a dinnt.•r jackl!t. Onct. rlut royal twcakcr of rr.1diuun deLtdt•d fL1 t LlS'- 0 11c t)( h1, "hit~ ..,tie wc~kh~ imo rlw (orm::tl ring. dw re~t

a-. the,

\cl\ ' '

'

l11ston. '\.1t1tr.1lh. rbt' Prince':- imprimatur brought I

ovcrntght ~lCCL'pt~lJKl' ro the ''hire ·\\ai'lco.tr and black dmnerj;Kkct n)mbi n:ninn. Proust

tliK1..'

~:1iJ

that clc~atKc '-

\\,1-; lll"\Cr

f.1r

.t\\:1\

(rpm

!'impliciry. Tlw JHwdr) ,l(:lll odd-..::r,kwcd \\,listL"o.uur panLrncd

cummerbund is

t\)

be cn..:our.1ged. 'n long a:-

,jngll' lll)lll'l,h !njcctin~

.

into ti1L'

t '' ... )

~mallcr k·s-. rcgti11L'Ill"

th:lll

limited w tha.

..:ont:f
OJ1L'

:lCl."C '01")

c~.)IL'r (ormat fragment' iL' J(>rm.ll integnt~ mto

llllp\.1fl.li1L piLYt'!'.

Ppnhcrmt.,ft:'. 'incc d1r bl.tck

tiL'

.tlrc:H.h btwdcr' on the prcdicr.Jb!c?. km111ng a bo" uc

and matching CVl'll

Ml(lfl?

jt'..,

\l'-.t

l)r

..:t1111111erbund impo:-.L'' on tlw

\\L'.H\."f •

n

morL' ..:o111 ri\ cd. ~..,t.L-p
Hy limiring }our 'l·k·crion lf.l on I} dH."C component prcdomin:mrh b~.)rdt•rcd b) black. 'ucb

.1.:-

nwrh.lllll.c.lrL'" . . ltin .c.x P'-'cker 'q mft>. ~ou 1

, 111 gll:· dnl h'p

"lll:'ll rht• Cun't'tl cummrl'btmd 11'itlt

sqf( plf.ate,l dimtu shirt.

L

''·li't("Orll

hil\t"Cthut"Cd

cum

thar dH

~., ,-d '"l,11 •111c\.· rem=tlfb a parr of rhc ''hole I JLl\\ c>\t'r:

(l)llt

r.1:-;t

b<.)\\ riL" ,, r'lrtJ\' n in under rhc dun \\ 1rhout

bel ill' (r:lmcd b) :1 dark ..:ol0r. n 1::"

thL·

~t:tn ..h

l'tH on H"' O\\ n

makmg dw

11\..:k look gift "'r.lf'~ Jt ..Jso dlstnadS from the.cksired fOQit pOint--~ Jo .tmbr:k-e atlo~ or patt:.!~ IKW~ as th~ir personal badinage

fUr

unn tire more~ ~t

The tunalitJes•-:apable-ofenn.:hmg thi already dtam30C ~~n~st ~It tfk~ ~~4ft equ:d dew« of p~k and nchne . such al\ pltttn bottk sree~

.mJ gold lfa pttt¢tn is chnsen.rtsboukl be~ simple two coJQ.r; d~ign in whicll bluck or wtn~ like a cb.K' b~ and "iUte pnlb dot ora m'l!tmd~-a!ld...Wh1rttUiO

-

---

FORJ\!tAl__\1\IEJ\FZ TRo·u

j~Kkct

adht'I"C' IIJ dw s,une principle of prt\pOrtiC1Jl and "-11 hng a10 tull 1n.: c.. rrnu,er~. \\ ith L)Jll' eXCt.'pt in!). a slighd} "ttfcr ~mglc de..:orntiH:: band t'i.-place... the f~ rrn.tl t~ lUM: r, lllilCr

.small ~~rips l'l1

Ll\)ll!-iL:f:-.

Lnner k·g ~cam

If rhc jackl·t·'i lnpd facing' .m.: sann the lt.'\Wn.· nf thr ll\'>ll~0-r•: side. trim llltt~r l~)llll\\ :-.uit. llcJ\\C'\Cr. iJ" thl' J:lCket·~ bpd~ .m.• ltlllllfll•d Ill i!llJ"'~I7Iut cl lll:llchinggr\)~gr:lill '-'ra~lightl} 11nrnm('rb.llld '''th~1 rru:-cd ribct-lcct ;-~reeqll:tll\ '"·tmtd ltkc.: du: taik·o.lt ll'l)ll "LT. i r' bounm is 11~·' er l"t rlTcd ·1he I t\'1J t'\ Mairl:'· -~ 1 inger Rng\.!1 . . mn\ H.: slwll \\ r Duur.e~ t"llll! ai th :lll ~U llll~ing JcpiCtiUI I of l !JI..' fll nless I radi tkm j 11 \\ htch \~tmn~\ b.md lnt mbt: r:"' 11\ tll ...it.:!t rr:Kk hi' \h·Jdin\., thm drrs' truu~T hL ctdk>d t"' b' com inLing him that till~ btl·~t f."l."hJl>ll r~l,uire -:1 t\\ '-

ib

L

DRl

's r 1\'t:;

TIH \ ·f.lN

J

..

FORMAL WHITE-TIE TROUSERS

SEMl·fOR~AL BLACK·lliE TROUSEJ':S

'-

---

------- --------

THE BLAC I<-TI E DRESS SI-IIRT

II nnd morC" f~wnJJJ is th~ "hire ti~

-.hin "uh ~r:1n:h~d wing ~.?olbr.

C\C'ntiH! ~

~

1 he ~c\.mJ a:-. rhe un,tarched. rttrrll.lt.."'~'' n collar ,hin "ith .,n(r plc~ncd

dc.••\:rtbed ~
J.

iTt1llb

and double culT.

,. cr nnmhcr· ,,trrori.tl conrriburit'll !'rom the .. l,rinr~· t,( \V.llcs ...

\\ h tle eirlwr f1.ll'l urrl :·>1 un doc ju~ticc 10 l hL· fl.lur da,,i~.: di nncr jacket nll1dd-.. the" i11g col

),11"\ htgh st'JrGh~d polllL" hnnllulllZf' p.tn i\.·ttbri~

dinn~r J·h:k~r

th~ fuTI~dr~s" f~,rnwl

Ltkt>

\\ dl with I hJt u( the ~ingle-bl·ta~lc.J. pcak~xl lapd

hfn. mp

dnt''~r rw·ndo\\n l"olbr ~.:'\Cning 'birr.'. ''herlwr '-

pleawd or marrdb fr"mrs are con,rntctcd "ir h .t bib ~ n pl~ de •gn furndo\\ n collnr dinner !'hin' nh' a)'

rake I r~..·nch ~ufY and

t\\ll

or tlm..:c ~ntd'. thL· Cl'rr~n

.

mnnbl.·r dtcLtrcJ b\ the W<.~rt:r\. h~ight. .... must \lf t ~1\ • r~alh or a1~rom m:1de \ er!'ion' ntak"· t heinh'.lr~rs

'

look htc m:ll.l scienti.'>(S:" it h nne t" j,t 1l the ht.-nd .md d1e cnlbr's limp. dim11111th~ p~1i111.~ h~lt1.l to

rull ml.'r rhe bO\\ tie. ( )riginall}. the~~ lfr" ing ~.·ol1:11·

Gitlllt.:

I

~;~paratt.'l). offering n \l1lnety of dill""..·rt:lll height'

Lmd contt1t1r.s dmt ensured

its hro:td wingvd

II

THE WELL-PROPORTIONED TURNDOWtl•

COL!.AR DINNER 5r41RT AND BLACK BOW TIE

pr~cncc

fr.un~dall men C.1~e-- in r~,1l 'plendor. L'nftll'lllllatc..:l). t'JlO.'

f.J,hi"m

m.andatL~ r~ad\ to •

\\l.'ar

\crsion~.

it . .

Jtmcht·d colbr became homnuenizeL.I IT'Jr bro:Jdl.'r ~

app~al

rhu.-. fixlt-m.ng mosi ofi1-.:. fimcrion and all ofi~

mdt\ idual rclint."'menr Ii :., 110 \\01 11.:fer that 't:\ 0rnl }l..a1 bnck. tht.· \\ ing colbr\ emn'io.dmed remain'

0

\\t!I"C

pu.-.hc,l ~'"''de lU mal.~ "U) [(if the l r.m . . tcnt .m~.l iri\ o k,u_.,. col1.1dt formal shm \\ 1th a Cmn• hutw11 d,l'illrl..'

I FLACIO WII~Ci COLLARS ENDING ON THE WRO.NG SlOE. OF A !"OFUiiAL BOW

Bonum right i' <111 r!-x.'1mplc nf.uint lwt·mix~d mct.lph~'lr: .l pleakd [rum dinner ~lun ''it h n '' i11g

cr)ltu· a mutt nf a ~arm&:nr if l hcrt.~ u er \\ .1c; ~11\C

II

I I

0

'

TIHY WING COI.J...AFUi OVERWHELMED

ev

----

-~

l

A Bl'lW TIE

---

Tire autht'lltic \Vindsor kuor the Drtkt•'s tlH'Il pt'rsmwl St)'k Thf bt'tWS own bow.

DIU_," ~G THE: ,\li\~

THE BLACJ( BO\\TTI E

he scmi-(unnnl bl ..1ck ~dk blm 's tl'\turc 1~ g~.l\l'rn~d b~ the j.Kkcr·.. L1pl'l E1ring' buw for satin l~1cings. a ~

nbbcd

or rncbbk·

\\C'HH'

a ... ;um

\,1riario11 l~u· n'"'rO"l~r.Iin I:Kings ltc; bmtedl\J ~ ~

OJ

bnt \\'111g "h~1pc j, J m:H rcr n( pcr-.lmnl pr~..·l~·r~._·nc~.·. \\ hi I..-: llll'"l mea cnngc- .11 vhc? rlmughr ofhn' ing~ w kiH)r rh~ir o"n bo'' ur. 1t' r.lrc to t"l)J11C un~.m ~1 \\l..'ll-turncd our ~lLJH ' ' ho nmnm \ LILk r. o( !!l'omctrical pcrl~ction ill the Citll',llL'J knl'l i:-- bnrh d~._,ir..·d ~nd imp~. rram. humJJ1IZII1g dw L'llSl..'lllblc ~111d 111~1kmg it lollk

il1l'rc:

md1\ Jdu:1l ( "l'L the :-l"l:dt)n (ll1 bo'' ric' 111 d1.1ptcr < "\('('I

\\l'.lr.") The bo" \" idrh sh\)tdd ntH t'\:t~nd bC)l1mi the ..-,JII.lr\ \\ ing'. rh~..· "lwe:ui Cl'llm· .. pcrunc

t~..·r. \)r rhc man-..

-.pe~...wl \\ 111d-.Pr knell C(Htld he rorrccth .uuJbutcd to the Pukt II ''ould be rhc nnl' h~...· empln)ed l~ll· Jtj, bl"'' 1 niter rhan lhc bulb1u . . ~·oniccriPn f<.,r ll'llj! nt:' L'ITOJll'l)ll~h

•

t:Kc. I( ;1

Cl'l:dLtL'd lO

him

Ft\ ""' 1-IIO ~ TI .1

b\! t~lnnal

'htX'

G T I-I E FOI~MALAN J(LE 1\ND FOC}T

as a' Ji,nnt:l from nt h~r nwle l~}l>l '' C'.ll' a:- the di nn(•r jacket i~ frnm a ~uit

LJkt· urhl'r 'nlJd.mon~ llf ''hilL.. L''r hLKk ti~ ..~1..'11tdin. the l~)rma l slwc mu"t i111ht1L' the drc....s tTOLISl:r \\tth n Ct:'rt£1111 .:\\\;}Ilk \\hilL' atTonJiug tht> ~~hJl L'IIC\llgh Jighllh;'~.; ~111d C lllll;>rL l\l help

.

d.ti1Ct:: lht: lJig}H ,1\\.l\~

"-\,Hill:"tillR'S

~IJlll\'. , 'IPilk'tilllC~ .tnD( r r I JJH~d wiriJ a ~jlk_ bu\\.

npp(.·uring more like .1 'Iipper than .1 .:-.lnw. thl· l~>rm,tl ~lll'l' is rite {ml} ;lpprupri.lL~

\C .. l <:lh\<1\'S ,

W
tn l·tni!'h

nff th~ furmJicn,(.·mbll" \. ~ \ l''Bge of m~1l~ cc•un d rt's'. tlw ('PL~ra pump rcmai n~ the .:'l ,It• i rem ~.~( mctl \ [l,J liLm hl

cntl."r rh~ t\\Cill~ t1r,I cl."nntr~ prt:lf} much

:1:- il kl.t tilL· ninL'IL'L' lllh.

tl1l· upct-J ,[,ppl·t '1rik~' the le:-~ ~ophi·aicH~.?d :1'

'lllllL'\\

\\.ith ribbl·d !'ilk b)\\.

h.n c~rcmin:.u~ This ~~ unl~'nun.tre.

ince 11 h:1 been tlu.: foundation(,ff(.,nn.tl hJl't\\car ,jncl· rhc turn pfrhc pr~..·\it•U~ LCillllf)- ·11w

more . . uignt.: tend tu Lhoc1~t' thL' dulled calf,LI· ion '

u\ er its p~Hent lear her peer

t'r the

.\ltholll.!h tin.: more Ct'mcmiunal 't \\ n

(lit

d.ts,ic l~1nnal ~I we'. tlw p.trcnt lear her

\)xl0rd

~..Hd tlnl

make

it~

lk~nr ulll il 1hl' carl) 19 ~lh,

ptunp\

entre~. \\'it!t

deb11t on tlw

It)\\

d:-~nct·

\\rll :Jrl(:r r l ~t• c' ca1i11g

ib plain hu.~. clt>. . clr crtJpp('d

,Jt·li(.:ltt.:!} bt\L'k•d \\.Ii-.L. ~ut<:.l glt''CIIkL:. lit this lon11.d I:Kt.: up i.:: l ~..llh ck·~a11t :mJ pr~Kticall~.,r

c;olcs.

dmtctng. '\;( 1trcc

thi~

bt.':.-pt.Jkc ... hoc's "ilk

l~ces.

nn

old wuriJ lurbclcm rard) ~ecn tuda'

I hl' llH)r~

C:lllC nn~..1s

lum,clr dt'llTling dill nc1 clothes ~(>r pri\.lrc ocnl-:J()Il'. the more ltkcl) he i!' to .ld npr ~c' era I nlrernal'i' l' :- t} !t.:.' t)f 1~Jtlt\H·ar I he dub t'll'g.mt C'lk'r.l pump :llld \I hen -.ltpp"'r nwtdd!o> lt:J\ ~ lcmg bl~L'll ''"~d ..1~ f0nnnl :'1-hol's Thl' Ill(' ·t t""l.t~s} 't.•r,it11l t ,( tlh·lancr .1n: thu"c maJt Ill .I J.1rJ n.·lvet ~{ ,Jm· .HIIJ embmldt.'rt}d \h'.trl·r

nntt.tJ.., or J (mtil}

\\ r.tppmg

ttl

augm~.·nt

i1

llltltlt>gr.lm

nf I he

or dub ( ll'"t (~ce png~ 19.!) "J h~ j,Jcal ~utklc

.til tlw; pnli\h arc L1( '-rti1J bbck 'iiik

nbhl.~ U\L:l" tht ".tlf t.:llth_,n tL.. Ic nr g~tfll'r

t!Hht.•r <1 d (

\\It"

:1 :.t'>tL·d ht,SL' \\

:~

finl·

ith

Clllt ,r ur t:ontr;:tsnng dncklil...e ~Je,Jgn

--

~

.. l

Hltcm Jrr$$ o~

u·dlr Jilk 14«$.

1 -I _').

he '' hi tt.:' me'' j:Kkct repre!\eJHed 1he rcl:t'h ed

Slll'h btU:ld

Dn1 s.• 1 N~

Ill\[

r:td ical change in malt."

t:\ enmg

"'ear and

n:lt iorwl ~Kcc:pti111l'L' th:H it ";ls immediate!} adopted fur rhe umform~ of

hdllinp:-: ~111d l')rdw~rr:l jacket \\:1!'1

f1 r:-,t

111t:lllbe1·.s.

n~lllLTing lO

111:111}

\\' hilc it rc~t'mble..:i .1 ~lilcoat cmutrm rlw \\at~dim: tlw me fi,gurc~ pnrliCtlbrJ~ those rhar didn't happen

t I fL'

~mhJl· dmt

oi , \duni.!'. Tlh~ AmcriL'an m:1lc "a~ ripl' l"dr somctl11ng alotlg mure romemional 1m~.·~ that

THE Milt\

1\.'L:lincd the (tJI111~HT :1ntl '--l>lur o( th~ Ill~'' jacket In IV34. [S,]lllrt' wrned the 111glnmnre of

\\:lrlll- \\C:lthcr l~ll·maliL1 intl) a mid.su111111er night' dr~am. un\l·dmg the "hill dmner J:lcket

\\ith ~luwl L'OIIn1: PrL''L'IHl'd in bod1 'inglc and doubll' brt':I.Sted m,,dd:-, it recei,cd .Kt:.oladc from

hablltll'" c,l· cxdw.i' t: r~~orr!-> C\TI'}'\\ hl'rc.

------

~-----­

---

-

-

-

-

-

______________________ __ -......__

l )n(~" hhc bn,kc the ruh:lr b:11Tier. nthe r rdlo red di 11fh' r j:Kk~r.'i s.onn l'l'llrm ~d.1:m f1 r-. 1 gamt.AJ populariq m .t

n~~-\'

cnlur calbJ

bkmJ LOn~orrium \~ ith mcu buck in

··bi~qllt.:.•." ll.s ~t:t'11 to\\ n II\ 1\\

hcrt? i 11

rile

nJmpan) o( t.hi!' blond-on

\\':lilting to .-.hm\ '

_l __ -

\lft1lldr rn·ctu -.umanneJ. Cl'Titpl~xicliJ~. tht: IlL'\\ c~llllr~ \h:l't..' \rdCHllW .llldmon!'. to rh~..· c.lll...e a~;. the ~u1i"1 I \.•..,Jic ~:mlburg'~ r~nd~.-ring (,rf,rt•c ltj1) ~ \f m:t~rulinc formcll t:lt.'ganc~.· on rhl' I rench 1\.i\ it:•ra bril

ham h pnn r.I} \\e ,,,11 ue\cr

(,th," nglrt) ''a'> rn

k!H.l\\

\\hcthcr thi'\ blat.er trimmed

tu:xc~lo

p1r~.~~.i b} the ani'L Uqmrl. . ta~hiun .,mf( tlr an actual

.

P.1lm IX'.t("h rltJ!t11lte. \\'h.lt an l'Xtr.mrdtnnnh ~t:\.. ltsh id~.1 1 Re' cr-.mg -.;::"

\...-

rha.: '' h1b: t''lll .llld uudmglu blue bt,nnm \\ tt' thl' m.•xt '"'!!JC.11

!.tt'p

in

t:~t·nmg ,, •.,,r,mf~mnalm,trdl. (.l(t,"lSIOil Cc1JI111g ftlf

th~ ntL~l\\,1) ,111lj

it' cllfClld:lllt alL.L<' miglll bt.: rn sugg,t::-if'

far ben\ .1,.'('11 ~ J~ Wl" l't.'IC\ a'llll thf' propl r drc"'' ~~~r .1 ''cddu1g Dr o•tl moni.d \lilting \\h 11 f~,nn.d .utlrl' ico nprinn.tl h the l~lkm C•mgr.uu -,prp, .trt.' lC\\ .ll\J

bung rht• "<. n tL.''- m.m 4un: .Jd\· knPw~. run U11g up fol' ~uch da~.l in

"ulid n.n •\ 'itut ' ' httl Jrcss -.hjrr n.lH Aitd \\ hitl· ~ltt.'pht.'rd's chc(:k til· \\hit ...~ h.tndkt•rrhief and hl..1ck -:.tlf "hl h..: ' ' J•• . mJ "'lllll\ .1 prcr11 t.:tfe .md ~t} },.;h l1t.·t.

.m p"·-.·.1

illll

:1

l __

In 1 h~,; t ll'
L'Lan~c from the cl.l ..s~t· "od ~ .11·.1d tgrn q lat.· Jlt"\\ ca.. uul Hll' tr{· .. d 1 r l~11· .1JI t:ll-.tled k·.t\ tng Jll,lfl) 1111?11 ~trugglmg w f111d .1 "-l\ le ,( u(fi ... c at[lfC t ,11 J J 1 t 1 t rl dJc1r bu"in~.•s., lTt.·drbtllt\ • tt 1

t1

lllth~l\t:CUlJ\tUtljcl'tnJfkstlll•~o,m~J 1 t\ t t p r I \.Cl.'pt l~1r blue cnlbr IJl r u t 1111111:! lhl: \\ r 11

r!u: t'lllLTgt...'llCL'Of('I'Il\atll'so.;;llflfl t.lllt

ch.mgt.:· 111 husmes.. l:t"lmJn 111 our til1ll'

\\ai,tcom. and ~.ln.'s' c~).ll h~1h: bl.'en

CtJII.11 cr.l\JI

I rid.t} d, ~thing hn' rlt 1\\ rl'pl.lc{·d t mdi11ounl bu ...'int " 1.11-rc.::~, l~>r ~)l' percent 1)( \mcric111 pffke \\orkm·;;

11" ll\\ 11 c.l!:!U.tl

~

DIU

nllt. L11 , 1J ._, i ~. .., ,

l~' o llU mi r~·d }l!ar:- \\ 11 h t ht.• d~.·nll lCJ\lllt:lt 1t 111 of corp£W.Itc d rt. , Ct dv.. t lu g l n Itf

llt.'.l rh

--.•'

lhl' ltmlCr:-.llmc < f

\H'l'k

q-..:

T HI ~~ \-.;

lt. 1\l

.11

h:

l

(

4

d. 1

J

Rel.txing t h 'ct ,q )(ll";J.lt' ~.hl'"" ..:'\h.k· ".ts ttlll..'llt.k:d to d i mmtsh tho c btt: J"dr ·lu\..tl harnLr" th:u ,lf'irClttr.lgcd a t1 1urc lllll

Ctllk•giill \\llrkingtmllL)sphell I nltL"rout uft~ll' lf.lppt'.lnngnld f.t,..lm. 1 td "'

\\.lilting t1J pl.tee tlh·tn,~hn 111 rhe path (tl.\\ll:tt 'l'l'I1H:d h] e.1 culnu·.1lul.:~l \\ ..1\-t

111.111 g

r Lc~Tl

dcm 11 h.md,, ngnn 11:1\ing emb1·.1u~d the l :1 u.ltn:11d \ nl ~h." t.e.tl, the} ueglcc1ed Ln .mal)ze" hcther the \t,l...,teruf the L nncr)\e~ Ill'\\ duthe-. mJL:h. nud u '-l Rcg.trd!t.·~-. qf ir:- 'inllL'"· bu ine~~ Ca'LJ.ll has l:OtnpltcarcJ the II\ c.:\ t r lllt f1 \\ l Ill.. thnught thl·m ...chc-" Immune to 1:a.hHm \\ lulc dt.:\~tnP\ nr-t.: j:unmed \\ltb upLJt ('t ll.tr h1 t<• and (,tsu:Il <::l.1cks. mo~r l''xecuti\e-. l...ccp a 'JJ.II\~ 'llit and .1 coupll' of nccktH:.., m tht tr ( f h.l: h r tmpr<.)mptLt m~ctings ..'\t mo~t cnmpaniL·s. old l'l:OllOlll} cllnft~, (me.nnng 'lilt' .md tt J r~ -.t iii Jll,llld.Ht ll') l~ll· llll'L'ting.~ \\it h uld cconolll} dieJl!!- It!) i11g ro juggle J\Hl drc.: "' n t jl \\ ull lllixing intern:d \\\lrk ''irl1 cilt:IIr l·m:I11g \\urk h.1s lc{Ltllnll} men ''ith a!'!inki11g fcdang that th guru.s t';lg('rl}

l)ld ruJt:,

jlltllpPllllll t h~: d1\.'s-.

li:l\L' bt'L·n

dinH' n out. n ith nnthing to put in thL"ir plrKe

.\It h{ ~t~gh rhc in it i:1l e\·idcncc .lppc(11':-.

w be si,Kking ~)cr Thl' tcrh

l.1 rgt:l) .l!teccft.,r.tl the drt:.•s do\\ n plll'n muH'll

i.'>

!-C(tl1r

meltdll\\11

fl'lll\)\Cd '\(.)lU('

or rht'

111( 11\.lllllll

casu.1l d res~. There .lt\~ '-'~rm\ i ng'- i nd i~.·::n iPn · 1h.n dre . . 5.ier dorbe, nrc ~..-reepmg h.KI.

bduud

1111 '

rht

\\ o rk ~, l.h."c

\ \'hiJe (\• nic:- arc ~till nur C1.JI1\ incccl orw Lhing j, certain Tht· dor-com

cr.1Z1.'

rh~t

or a true ttpri~ing tO\\ JrJ lllnt1..' pc lt-.hcd drc' ll~ lll•)k

nfflikt.• a t'l'cker
l;"~nd:-Glpt' bnrh cHitur~ll} ,lJld .:-anonall). Th(' l.'ll crufca"u,1l f-rid~I) fu1lon~.d "hl'tih then..Jf1t.:r

b, (orp()rntc C:l!'ll
"l h

'' '

dl..':-;irc LO lt,uk and feel cnm(orwblc Cun~unwr drl\cn .;;qlc Jm: cnnw Dfagc mtld{tmzmg tht:

lll&llr'du~l't \\ithit~mc

cl H hl':-.

IIL'"l\\

haltg

.-.agt.'l)(!'utKiiOIJ,IJldCt)llllt rt. \\'ithalllC\\

11L'XI tl) slliL".

bdil'\ t: t hal Lhc- comf~ sit in

t.iPl'!-Sittg ~.·ach othL'r up

j .. tll)\\

ab~.1uL

(I) ...

•lr

t:hhion\3Cut1Jfllt..1ftll '-". ttJI

dlm 11 a~ rlw

tJC(.l

u...-L"ttlllb l•' dJt? '-l.lr~h, one

l!
I(

n

dcmmd" I '

df""Jlll In nth r

,, or~.1 ... 11\ ~oing tu he t•.ntgh rn wr11 h:Kk till' clock -1 he ch.1llcngt.:s po,t•d b} n (.:buaiLL'HT•tlr.ltt! clim.ll(: huuld nut d1" tr:lG

tncn

fn)IIJ

thl' l.1rg~.·r goal n( becommg more lneJah.: .1buur "h

bu,ine~~ (l1th~' nw.m. Ikcna..c ~bent t.'XPL~cmtion' conunnt:

PREVIOUS PAGE

J.,--amiug how to ll'ear i1 suit witlzout a fft' i11cn•ascs thL' corporal£' casual options.

tt.

I

thtrr

.,d dn.:,, f' ,J

nwnagt~d bu. lllC'"t'' making one\ da1h Jr"· " nwr d c.m L •Jll'i\l cb nnpnt · t.Hl t •1' h Lmul'' (Jnc·.. I tn'-'ll md ,Jll)ll 1~l1 l'l' ;:: ~ 1\!~ ~

iL·, fi)r llh>"l ''ell

" ·· 'l'Jl-;JllH' J

prc:o>ent:uion . . !...ilk \\ h1lh mam ambinou~ c\~CutiH~' dt.-dtL.Itl.' thc.:·n . . d

L'

t

- --rhr<'ttghtlUt tllt.'lr c.1r~ers.

L

IJ1(:l?

clt.lthc. :ue th~.-· mo:-t po\\ crfullh. lll\'t'rbal rot'!.; of CUI111J1Lillir.t

u 1.:m \\In ;;houldn'r rhn bect'llll' an ctTtx:rih· tore~.'' in one\. L'\t'r~lll bu~mc,, sn·ateg}? .\nd \\tth tht: ~.·orporat~ (.t... u.ll phcmltnt:'non helpmg Lo lunhcr r~.·nm' t'' :til) --rigm.1 fl'lllll men put rmg

l I

mor~ ~fton

uno\\ h.tr rhe~ \\eal~ rhl.:' rime h.1' ncH'r been nH.wc prupitiow. In l!nlt on~ mw' arrn\.' f~w rhe lar~~.:·r bu,inc-.~ mi~:-.inn. thl? illeal or··businc_-.s .1ppwpriate ~

,tltlfl.'

~

'huuiJ be l'\.ll.~lldcd

tD

indudc (he dr~~" dl)\\ll (\pl iOJl

\\ hL'l her lll:ltChing till"

s11lc or 1 he

ti1rnul oud1t tt..1 mnl..:c him l)r Iter fet•l rnun:· :lt c:hC l'r ~.-·.1llin~ utll rl1e pin~tnpc

d1enr '' 1th .1 k

md bmgut.''- h-' cnnnn.mdeer rht! simmiun. ''hu~incss c.P•u.11 drc..,~ing.. ~hl'Uid b~.· ~~ubr~Kcd mt h~r rh•m c chc\H.J •L'· one more w~~1pon in rh~..· bu:-inc-. . . mall·:\ ar,cnal. T he n.~:-nlt ~,;hnuki bl· :1 b11sin~ss tppmpnate

·t)lt.·

n( dre:--. .1ncl a\\ a1\l1·0lw cap:-~ bit· ll( ~e~un lc~~lr ~cci 11g_o1k' fnm1 '' l) l·k tu wt.:ckend

1 1.1m thmg ttl b'-'l"\\cen

GU IDELI ES FOR BUSINESS1\PPROPRI I\TE DRESS

•

1 he fii.,t mc.t~unng 'nck ~~~r bu~ilh>:-. .ntirc •dwuld bl· dc:l nlinc"~ l :liclll~ prefer their prpfc siunal klokilJg well

gr(1\Hncd

l:a-.unl

Ll res ... ing

i:'

Ill) L'XCttSC

r~)J·

ltH)king ~Jopp).

n 1111pleJ. or 1.111" J'hcd •

\\ ht.'n in doubr .h ro the rorn~C'l ,lttirc for a ~pecific bu-.inc"~ IIICcting. 0pt for .1 'uil. Drc .,. d1..1\\ n \\enri ...,'till rd.niH~I) nt.'\\ to the (nrpor.ne ~1rcnn •md :-tillll(lt pcrcciH~d a-. profc,\IL'tl.ll ,lfld po"~r(u] a the cia sic bu~inc'~ cn~emble lfun,Urt: .tb,\ut an ucl"n . . ton-. lc\cl offormaliq mcr'"1r·:~\iug is the safer bet ll} drcs~

111g up lltlt onl~ do' nu pa\ .l complimcm to) our dit:nt. cohort, l_)r cum pan}. hut} nu .d\\,1\ .. h.n e dw ('puou of rt:"mo\ mg onr.: or me 'Ire .lrtid,:, of Lbth111g. •

Dn.''' rn lme \\lrh hmr "-Upcnor" and ll~\cr more rn.!'lhlll~ th.w )Our 'ubordiJJau·s lk

(.u •.Ju] nut rt drc Glll

•

b~com'"

\\1ilh:h:t" tLrt

It\.

rdnxed m.mn~r th.tt )'" ' nulnngl·r ll't'k like -..)Illl'P ih.' "ho

nn .mrhl'rtt) iigurt?

dl'thc~ \DU LhO•ls(' to \\c.:ar

w \Htrk make

'llr•'

the,•

h,lH.'

the "~llllt' dt~l'.lC

louk l~)r 111 .t f1tlt: snit glmd nt,Jterr.ll fine\\urknwn~tlup. nnd ~\cclk·m be"t qualil) )'Ju c,1n ntFmd 11kc om:' cdth...lllnll t.lothing ~~ .111 imt:~o:nncm

dt.u

ht Bm the.

'l!lto;lldt :1

\OU

m \our lianu't;

lh

o;l N'H S

CAlif Al

---

------

-----

Bu!-incss cas.ual :111ir~ i~ t) picalJ) brokt~ll dtm n into muhiple cntL·gunec; dt·nntmg ,, ~ ing

Lfegr~cs of lllfl11:1lit').

known

i11

1

SUCh

:'ts

.lLli\ 1..' C:l!\U
[ngl:tnd. In thr intc.?re~t

ca:;ual, or

.snl:liT C:ISU:ll. a_.,

dw trend

1

l)f simpltcit} and ~tructurl.' I ant g~.,mg 10 di, 1de dw cnt\:r

pri'c it tiLl t:wn Glmp~. drc~ up busines~ cas11nl and dre~r;;-do" n bu,jnc ., La1\ual The dr0

,

up

bu~itlc'' c.n~gor} rangr.s (rlllll the Jres l,:d d{m n uit m an t:n,cmble of ,l•parah: .. fur 111 cJ ni\)tllh.f the tailured j~Kkt'l t?~dW'ii\L' ol 11 IHYktie. \\'ith thu; j.tc.kct driHm option thl.' 1111'1'10111'\ h> l'\li11111Ul1iCalC the- ~:llllC' dcgn.·~ or :1\lthurit) and prnf'"es~ionaJi~m as lhl' tmdittlmaJ bu~ime . . ~ uniflll'lll bnr ~.m a k·~, ~l!trchy

... -~ -)Cl

d~ngth

\\:1\

:\ ltcrn~tli\ d~; d r·r.:=-.~-du\\ 11 busi 1H:"'S C!ISIJ!iil

hm rwo-piece ofli.ce an ire rankt11g beJm, rhc: j:Jd~t·t~uri~nh.·d ou t Cit in drt's!-lil res!-. httr ~lhtl\ t' tlw [1f'l.:..'iscd jl.'~Hl:-i atld :spon. 'hin lunl l nnnnJ) to

DR£.):,J SCi THe i\lAN

\dwt \Vall Street

Llr

l'i l

rhc \Vhanon Schn~'l IIUl) hme nni'dr rl•n.sor1crl b) jt•tti,mllng the ~Lm and

neck tit· uniform. the~· ch..•,r:Jt~..:d 1he ld1:1ki ~tnd polo .shin unift'lnn into the 111..'\\ (ummun dtc.'\'i dm' n

~..l~·ntllllillator. \ \'hilc cnrp1 mltt' Gl,ual attire '':1s imendcd to ben more comfortnblt nnd 1es-. l~mlul aht:l'll
[Ll

the ch:tS'\1( Mllt :111d Ili.:.'Ckti~? rcgilll(", it

"3!"-1

also ·u ppo~ed

to

COJl\C\

cUl

Ullage ofbusJ

nc:-:slikt• intcmiDn. But commq tn popular thmking no combination of dre 'pam .md \lun l'\Cr [in r

\\til

rhc aurhorin .'\c:tk· at :11n \\eight ~lpnnxtehing that t.lfthe da!!sic bu!'!lne-, ~uh l'll"l'lllhlc ~ r ~ J

\ \'ith that

Ill""' ted.

1

rlwrl? arc man}

":l) ~to

make the rrou~er-.-.hin par4tdigm more C\l:-

uti\t? ·lot)king and bu,tnc-.slikc. "hich "ill be ,Iddrc.,:.ed lml:r. llo\\t:h•r dre' up bu lllt''-!ot c:1su:tl olrcr-. the h ighcr probnbilit)

l,r rcm.1ining buth snnoriallr :md ..:oculi}

rdc\Jill m cr the

kmgcr term wh1ch is wh) it i.s L'mph:1sizcd in this chapter.

DRESS -- UP BUSINE SS CASU1-\L: TH.E THIRD v\'ARDRO BE ___ L.-f'"orc men·,'' cckcnd drc.s!' stepped down ton pair,,{ :;neakcr~ .md jc.ms.

1L1

gu) \\ tJfc

~roir1u out st 'cialh~ he wou ld usuolhr step l'lll in wh:tt used robe tt:rmcd "taJl.,red port. \h.'CU'- 1( b

C

I

J

hL· didn't dono "1'01T jacket .Imlllcckric, he m:u:lll}' shl''" L'd up in ~1 rhrcc pi~r~ outfit c" mpn. L'd

ora 'f"PITCLJUt or '-WC.arcr \\ irh h;lt"llWllizing \.11\: ·' p:tlll\ ,llki OPL'Il colbr·~?d 'Pltrt 'hin 11res~ bu!\i tlt'SS Gt."u::U ,,

ur

retllr ~111 upda1cd vl·r.siorl t'( 1har 'l)lllt'\\ h:1r old fu~hwnc~..l mix-and march

rormula. with the ~h.iJed IJIIip l)fitKrC':I!"\l'd

-ri>d:n. nH.>~r men·~ dPst:t" ar~.. for the \\·cckL·:1d In pulliug ti·om

\.'(llllflU"I

,tl lL:k~..·d

and per~tmal e.xpre,:-itm.

"it h somb~r 'lilt~ ft"lr t bt• \H!>rkd.n .md lob dotht.·'

11cith~r thl' pinstripe: Jlt)r the jean-. :-1de nf the cln,t'r

dre'>-, up

bu~inl'ss c:tsunl demand~ ;1 dre,,rng qvle and a wHrdrobc th.tt bib 'onll'\\ lk'l'l? Ill bct"~cn one that 1 • · • • "'th - clmqntere~..d f~K · 1...~..·t, 1111..11 ~.He~ Hn t:.. quuin '"eaten; Jnd ~ron iiKorpor.nc~ :-;pJtly trou . ·.u~ ' • '"" 1n.1llllll1lll.W . ..-1 1ca' , c·par.uc.., re-.,mn!., dr~. 'tnt! ..111' -.hin-. L1 nl~H·tun~u<'l}~ tr) ing LG .lY'-cmbIe outflt, ~, ... ..1 · allt.'SC 1Lbl\ c) I :->Lilt· men nc:\ cr Il:tltJ to 1earn 111

-----------

llrll'lltc?d '' (lrk

erwironmcnL

- - - ----

--

--------

--------~

LO R1 TG U.P ):YO UR DRESS - U I) BL- ~ I N ESS \~lARD ROBE

~C

Up bu"illt'''

fertll£ tilbno

l."a,ual

fhe c.L-.it.:'t: \\&t~

to

forrC' .I lll:tll to ("(lOrd j 11:11 L'

tailPrl'd

l'fl 'CmbJc,

lll:tdt"

rrom d j 1--

pull ro~cr her unm:Hdh·d ''-'p:u·:nc.:-; i:-- rhrmr~h the mellium of

colur \good ntk· of thumb" hen lummnizinl;! dlrt~e dil"t~·rcm !'t'pnr.nc~ is to keep two pit·c~ in

rhc >.;1me (Cllltt

t"l..ll L)f

mp 'lrl'lq

'~tnkc

;I

C·Hnil): Thi~ <1pp nJ:,,-h :-;impliCit'' tht..· melding pror~c::- and 1magc

Ih ' rdds a murc J or example. p.tiring thi:-- nn' )' Ctlrduro) sp,Jrt cuar :md n:l\ y k11it ~hi rt t l.'-tW

more IUlldern mo0d (1~/i) th:m t.tking rhc ..;;lllll.' blue j:.Kkcl and wcaring.1 difl~·renr color

,hjn (nghr) \\ tth ir' gr:n trOU:...er~.lnki ng tilt~ I."OilCt:p[ Olll' ~tcp (un her.\\ caring L';l(h piClT j ll a di r~ l~·rent

h.m.tltn tt.md,

t,, achie\ e a more traditional mn,Jl.l, .1s Hlll . (,In

'il't'

from 1his beige ·Jilck~r. ~

pead1 knit Pl'll). •md d.1rk bn''' n -.l.lC'k l'll.,t:mbk· (Jar r(~ht) . ....,l10ul~..l \nu \\Jnt to .lCLCk:t·cnc dt~.:' EbhiPn rempo. kct•ping all th ree pieces in the same LL

"-'r lnm1l~ packs up the p.h:L' ~ \~ thc.f;t,lziollistci~ l~arned b) nL"quinng a prcdnmin:111rlr bbc-k

.\flm: moJrrn.

l.ess modern.

,_(1

_.,~

Bt'S1l'H5

CAst ..u

I

"·JI'drt)bc~ ~,,,tthing tht'llt..,el'c' hend ,., ltmt in nne cuk11· n,>, unl} rcdu\.ed th~tr marg 111 t1f -~

'-'1'1'01',

I J

Dnr...

1 ~~;

nJ r !\I 1 ~~.

it unil(irttlt'd them in a kiud

or Sll"t.':tlllii!Jed

C'tJOI.

Acce" ori.dng

.! "tWl In .1 mun \t11fll:d

pnl~..·n~ 1111bll\.'!" ir" it h ill~t.mt sll'cknc"' and nmdcrml): a" C\ ide need b} th1~ charcoal md.mgc of gr:1} tunk•nt-ck l"\n gr.J) tl.11111d. \\ h.u·~ ch::~ngcd in tlw nt:\\ millennium 1S that men hJ\L' k·.tnwd he''' tp embr.Ict· lhcir exi,ting \\:11'\.lrohl.' h~ 'Lr~rchiug ns fa~hmndb1Jir~ \ prc,li:-~~ionnl lol1kiug oudla rdiLs lHl :1 n·n41in le\~·1 off{,rmaht) w Ct1me\ ~tnhvnn J pri llll' l'oi 11 L ot- LO tKcrn " lwn \.lr\''~i 11g d, H\ 11 I ~~~~ Lilli form or robe:-. c•f am hnrit} itgw c" :-~uch ru. ju\.lg( -.. bm en(()rC.t.:llll:'nt uiTir~rs (1r dcrm nre u::-ual1) m <.brk. ">olid Ct)lor-, na\' or hlac.k ~um\ ume-. 1111:\l'll \\ith \\llit ..•. l)usiltc~.s "liits .trc- 11picall) rcli~.:.·\l'd b) light~l~ ~one dr~s~ 'hu·rs ,,J,iJ~ nH~n·, I~Jrlltalut'~ll' ft.;:\ nh ~,, :m \lllld th~ Ll,l,, il·li!Jck and \\ lme co~tttmc \hb<."'llgh t"')" h(,IPglt~l~ \..t1JI'il .. ler hint!....l11d "hit~,.• th~ lllllst .nnltt.Jri1~1ri:m nt· all co!ur comhlllnt1un illch lugh ct)ntl.lSI d,J~,.· llDL lbt 1(!J' l~, l:'n. n~tt•'s 1:1cial Ct ~~~~ring~. ~

.\" di::-:rus. ~d t.~arhei: a man·., C\ unpfc:\tnll and ph~ ·''lllle sri II (Onstinu~: rhe main cnmpru

, dec! itJll

or clothing

(OJ or,

for hr~

:md I he1r Idea) Cl t lrd liLt

tbuugi1 darl~er hued h.1nnon1e\ happen t\1 ht• in' c1gu~ that i. no rea~on tC1r the fmr-ham.~u light • ti1 111. EH'li

skinned t'Xc\.·utih~ ro ~-.ho,, up mnmled 111 a C'JCt'piR'm

nr dark color:-.

Likt?'\ is~·

lf}"ir1g

tn pl'll)Cf~

:1

lc C~re

mPil h1l oiTice iJnJg\. 1" no excu:"~e tn -,nf:n nl'rgc .1 lu~h­ CL"~IHmsr \' i.,~ge ... in .1 ~~~ ~)(ant"lllit· <.. )n

tuned .Ipp.tn·l

the urchitcl'tural side. JU'>t as contrJ~t~ng

top~ ~111d borrom~ can unnert:.."~~1ril} dimrm'ih -hnrtt.:r lll\:'!1 ,

darh·r nnuscr-.

\\'ill mike

drc~~icr. In en"h ing n n1rpor;uc

~p 1rt jad~t'l' Gl

u:~t

npp<.-.tr

'nk· tlf drc '

that bnt h tl:urL"r' and prllje:·ch pmf~ .. ,,onall~m 'nu must nPt '-tra' roo far fl\ )Ill tlm..e mdn idu.u gUide • J'• "l~ 1h:u dt( t:m.• nuc cnJ....1r :.t r~ItCg) V\t'f :tlH.li hL:C

LEFT

J Icn·$/ww

lt1}trsfriotr a 5U(LT5gii/

rnmmctwu bctwcnl,l bn1n·u ;portja1kLt 11.11d ramd umfnlt'L"k ttsinggolll·hut·dluTinmd /f~hur·tout•d skiu ltllre/p detcrm;nr rbr idrul ... tWitlrtllt t!{col1f1'tJJt to .•lwn· bc:low. OPPOStTE.

Ki:('jJitlg rl1e (t'l"r sclrt'mr UJtlJJCHilJ~

rcztdrt'ts tip the cJ;semble's anJ in ellis CU.St".. tltt· suits modrrnitr.

---~ -------~~

I

Dra~1-.t~a

ntr

~\I

lN

----

PI.EC I NG TOGETI-IER Tt-I E 1 ORE - Ul BU ., fNE S-CA UA L \t\1A RD I' 0 BE

lw drc.,~ up bu~iriL~'' c!l . . ual "nrJrohc rl.'\uke~ .trnund l\\\ j~teket on~nh:d ~("eu.m" thE' 1hrt'L' piere '-t'p:trarc~ c-n~emble and dw nornie ,uiL <:nufir \;inc~ mn ..t men ha\(. )t; 'l'Xp~n encl! drL·,~iug d1n\ 11 a sui\ dt:llltt'H illing up 01 sport· j~tdn:-r l~r·~ t;mn \\ith tlw dar!· Lulurcd "'PL'rt ith"kt":t \\ Oftl \\it" cl (ttl

1111d ~l'\\ ll or ,-.. ,llatvd knit ~hj rl :'llld 3 pai I Of \\~11 pn.'s~J dr~~' ,JJt"k'

1\n::lW•t' it\."\')\ ~r., rht·large;;t pt,nion c,( tl1c bPd). th~ jJcker "rt~ 1he culor d•nx-ttonti.Jrthl'

r~.:?'t l>l 1he team. \ .; ~plm co.11' nrc apprL1primc in

r

l

nH.Hit

c.1sual bu,mc ;-s 'l rting' n htgl quJitf}

"ell milur~d jackt!t

1

cntiLal lf) tht.: drt' up

bu.sine.'i~ Cl'iUal \\Jrdrolx 'tnn \\llh .1

dark oliJ or ubtir pan:crned u f l h~ pO\\ L'f llCUl raJ

l<

xnurd

splln (OJ.t llli..Hlt

,f1Jdt'' of llJ\ }· dur~tul

lbrl· bnJ'' 11, or raupc ( ; m1mkk1 JJd~t: ung" ,m;

f<.1r muJ tJpl~ 'H .tnng... "t 1 'nd '' ith tUtdl?r~l:a[r_:d p:mrrn~ at the bcgnmmg \~'ith thl· spl.ln L'tl::tr fiHKiioning J'i dw. I c::tp:-;u]c col1x t":Imil) ·~ ccmcrpiccl' 1>.urrnund Jl '' i 1h rd:ncd !\~.:"'}1J.r:li'-'" JoiJm, ing the gmddu1r tiJI J

lllr..'lllf'll'abl~

o((t..)Qrdin:u in~ n' o of the thr~t: gJrm<:·m '· ht·~m

.

l:n lmrmon iz ino rhe ux.,u.-.er \\it h 1he j.lcku 1hr ~

btHlOll.:-

or JlltU '}tOn jack~t

often

\.""011}(' Ill 3

complemem:.u1 nmn-ast s.hndt.•. -.o its t'llt" -' ' ~

th:u rn.ms('r:

chtht'll 111 tht: .um.'

J

1:m

llln.tln

"ill match rhe j:-~cket prl'lT} \\ dl \\ ith t lw i.:lckc·t and

rrPtbi?r

in

a

"itmbr hul' 1hc ... hin G.tn c..-ith~l

be in ~ll:LliHF.l!\t or: ~o.Jnal rd~uon-.htp It~ loth. it .. ~:vordin~ltltll! ~..1in.lll.'d h} } Llllr o" n l:t''HllJ k~\um ~nd prr~utlal I.l~f·.· I( the

c, 11c ,}(its ,::, )lllfS

:-hirt 1~ muhi ·olur't.'J. -.lmt11d c_cho tb.n ut" dw I·Kkci

and 1 rPmet: L)n!,"' \\.n to hoot up u.;u.tl mtt.·J\~~a i~

ro cmplO\ a p:111ern on p.-Hll: n1

l r.th:·g~

,, l1i -h \.~Oilll'' with .1 c~na1u ri.:-k hut c.m prHducc..·

h.mJ!-, )Jilt' dt' idcnd . ._

ln\.: ~Almplc of~·\oh mg 'lh.·h .m uuual \.·.1p,ult· '' .trdrubL· mi~ht ,t.ll't "it h .111lltbnlid.

) II p.utt rtl:d [\Hl ~-(,ftlr J.1L."k{'[ Ill .l prcdomin.llll ~han·o.ll :-h.tde. \\ ith l.lll cl' It' 'L'I..l)lli.Ltq Ju.~nt ( ,f, r \11\:r .~t:qwrmg ba~JL" gr.t\ "-umponl~nt, . . uch 4L' rh.m.:oal Jlannd truthl'r-. ..1 gr.l} ' .,fn.: h ~ullatvd

j

"til \\Jnt t tn

1

kmt .,(lin .mJ perh.tp' a 'm~ll ~r.l\ and

t.lll

panerned "'" c:-n -.pon 'hin

'PI,ltt the t.m '''-'~ L.,f the jacket\ color 'dwmc \pair llt-Cm n ("O\ en t n'll'l'r'

i mtr...hrn~ r m d I mg le~\l' roll.trt·d knu ,Jllrt ''mdd imr,khKc ir ni~.-cl~ '\.'till· gr.1) (nJ,,r ul \JJ 1 \ nl'~.-k \\L'atl:f\t;'t 111 ch:trco.d gr.t\ or i1 c.trdi~.lll in bru\\ 11. :.111d). ou'n: "ell \.hm 11

..

thl: dr," up ca u..tl nJad \\J thom bcmg fi.,r ·ed

..

nmke n bl.17er pit ·'ll'P \~ t:u· .1 .. od ll.•r' JJL"kcr d rn ~·n PUL ii 1' g~,.. tlw 111h~·r"·m da~., inc'' {.,-the ~tngk· n r dot 1h le hr•t t...d rl.t\\ hf.tzcr .tnd gr~l} tn..tll"icr l·oordillntiClll \\ould ~-''-"'11.~1inh be high t'1ll dw list '\.l'\.1 n gin t lim\ .1 I\'"'\ .. r.trch fl'll\lll1 m .._,.(the bl.""·r lnok pcrhnp' a p
_...,'

l\)

~

A slurr ;acklt am be JrcrscJ up or dowH.

., I' .,

Rt

$1Nf.

CA."I

A

''''-·JICI

!till,..!

\-.II,, .111Jtlltl

''U'\1

\

DRC" ' 1111

\I

'

Cm·dlgiiii.Jiwll )'lt"kc1

'll't'ollt'l'

an ~!llotbt•r \1',1)' fLl drtS' up rht

dn·sr. dl,,l'll /,,t,k

ll\il~.lll

I'''

\\1111

II \\CI(ll

ltq'l

'.llllltlll II'\

pttlllt'

till'

I

J

I

---------

----~---

1rh ~{ mt~-.rt dictating otTk~ dt!(Ortllll. th! da.:-~ic spP•T C\1:1r mu.'t .t

\l.''"\.·luf nulc rc-,pt•n4tbilit}

Jt I wed' to (Ombi m·

bt!Cl1111C

mt•rc Lhan

'" t.•att.·rlik~ c0mlt'n "ith bu:"~inc ..!'ltkc protu

,·ol \\ hl·rt'J' 'ou ~lm updJtl· the rradino11.11 'uit b~ painng ir '' 11 h n rnrrl~.~Jh'\k or ·r ~:-hin. try mg m rl·nd~ rhosc -.rrairjacker.. . fro111 the sc\ctuic~ or ci~lllit.'.' underm111~~ Lh~ ~nrirc l"rttt·rpri'c hc~.-dti,L' d1~1r pa.ddcLt torm.tlity belie·" tl'>da) \ mudL·rn c.I:-u;Iitll.~''· fltt~ mo~t 'cr

a tile and t'Ollh:'mpr:waq jnl·kct ~I) I(· i~ the Thrce bunlln. si nglc-brc:Jstcd

mudd '' i[h cJft n1lk·d front~. hghd) p.1ddeLI 'ho~t l1· r".
\nd l1k"~ th(' ..,;mtou:- (ard1gan .,,,catL"r. the ~l,fd) comourcd

:-p0tT ja~.:"kl.'t

can be

\\tlrn

IIKrcmcnt&llh lllflgcr. \\ hen mared '' i11l .1 'aricq ofloug ~~t:~\·e kn i r'. ~uch :b Lll nkne(b or pt'l~ '~· 11

k·t'\ l' ll.'ngth ~an ..1l~o drop ,.Jightl~ lo" er 1111 rill· \\l'i,t. Thi:-; .1dditinnal :-lee\ c length Ime' up

l:wtt'l'r \\ nh rht..' jackt:•r'-. h,,n~c-r k·ngr h..md wgct her t hq

pr01111

ten nwrt' rl·laxcd bt'd) l.mgu.1gc

\\ 1uh.· the older man tl'nd~ tu f:tH)r dw d.l''ic t\h' ·bunf'll rc• rht~ IIC\\ l!r three buttorJ Jackt>l mudd (,1ltl1•mglt the rhrce~bun~m j.Kkct pr<.'datt:d it, l:l'lhit."ll~'' i:--~) either i~ p..:dccd) :JL:~'t'pl .1hk· I h~ Llouble brea.,rcd )Jt:ket i~ .tl'-ll m opUl111.•drhough. bccm.;c- Jl 1'- 'k b\.·nt-r hntnmcd up. it tcn'-h t~l ' li..IU\<.' .1 -.J,glttl~ dn:,sa~..-r pt.' "tlm:. \\ htk Jll thrt•~.: JclCket

ITilldd:t

can

be 'n lr hi\ \' ,,m ro (\.m\l'\ a mon.· ra u.1l bu uw ~ 1n.mncr. at\ u~u.tH} I

Jt,m · r aht~r rh.m ·" I"Wt \JilC \h:,u-s rh.u dt,ungm .. he." both the appard .m 1rh"· mJn

The llll'' SI'Drl cod I nuds to combmt· su e:attrW:t.. com(o~t witlJ brmnGUkc J'rotocol. ~

UNf-f lNG I NG TIZADITION: DRESSING 00\\! N THE SUIT

_ , l'L"iet~ ·s :-.man scr h.t" lwen :"'puning suit!i '' uhout rk·. hw man} )t"_;u-... C,H'\ l

l HI

t. •

I '\ c

\-I

1\ ~

nlht•nc both

;rnru (brlmt~ ~~nd J,trl.. 1\om 11'1' }llcquditH' k~nnt·d} l 'na"'''" 1:u:h ·r (opJ''"IIc) .il-qurttmg

t h~m:-t•lvl' ..

Dll t

.1 .. \\L.

'' i1h ~..-lrar.rcteristic aplnmh "-tuch :t '{1guL" h.HJ pn.'\Jl1usl} !wen a,nrt,wd w rhc 111'11

bu.-.in'~'~ arena (I( r~..·~1wt or \rnu111i unhirch~d th~Miit tt '' ith11ut .1

~P~'r·r~\\'C~tr~ hl'i\\C\L'r. oncr lt.1Ifnn J~.,tgltt'r (.,n,rgto ib unbL·ndi11g bDx-nl n hltt'ines . . unif~li'IJJ in the ft~Hus \H~Jnng

'l't'ri,Hor

fJ\.>111

de h~camL"· b(.)th :t lugio:nl

:J thJ

p~l"lll.lUCtll l~t!·hiun

\\'hi I~ the 11111,:rnet gener~u i•m gn''' up not ha' i ng l\.J \\ ~tr ~~ Hlll t.o \\ ork 111 ~..·sd ''-'' m~ '\.'1kc.s and jem1s f~.1r HKkcd in ,!Jjn.,. and cknh~ tku fit true w ~zc mnn} '~ ungt•r men ha\c rcdb(O\ ~rt'd l he sui r. The \\ell ' l.'lll sui 1 slill hn, ,.•x ~ppectl ·rbdirional men can nv lon~t r aJil.u·d

to htJc bl•hind tlw "lilt- rh<.'\. nc...:d ru Th~f'L• arc m:m}

Ill'\\ ''
n:•itl\t''rll

il.

to\\ c-:1 r ~u. u i 1 h d.I). Lk'Glu~c it h:b undergone :1 makl'('\ ~rm buth

f~tbric and consrructil1n. ~\ lnden 1 t...:d 1110log) h:1' pr•x!un:d Iabrie" light~.?r and llll)f't.' ..upplt" dun

d(·c.ldl .1g\l ~.;nfr COJl'ti"UOtOil W•ing

'' nu1J h:n!! been bdic' cd unl) t..:nmbin~,1

\\ rrh

cl

.1

lighter p.tddmg and thinnl'r intt.·n:1cmg' tlu~

furmt..:rl} hor :md rc•a rkt h c d t.td,·l (,j ru1iug cb~~ :nnhorin h~1~ drm11loadcd it . .di into rhe • ulrimar(' !'tufT\\ ear.

Lc:Irninc-!... ht l\\ a

t i\.:·

affords

1 he

tu \\ ~.lr .a

bLI'iinc ~m.m

-.un \\ n huur lliW

more

l)pponunirr ro ~..·xtend hi. r.111gl· \lfo..,rp 'mtt." c:bmU optiLm;-; . \c(C...'-'uri.zing. the ~1m '' 1th ~t 'met hin~, .. 't her than ir"' n1-.rum:u'\ fnre lt:.ld'

it :ma) f"ro111

it!'

roml'i. hLmcH·r l·mbmcing

-.uC"h ~1 :-.f) lei:- not abow abandt~ning tlu.:

men

h~n c dre:-,t..'d

\\.1\

in rhl' p.;:Jl\1 It· .1bnw np n

in~ up "·hokes tor the" J~ rh~·}

,,111 dr'-'' in

dlt' rm Lll\?. - - · - -----

.............

-~-

LEFT

Heres Cm1' Gra11r nn-rching tlzr-. s:rrt~ sariorial bt1undar1tL OPPOSITE

_lad~ Hou1•it·r attd daugllto}arqudiur iti rslaud.fim".

Hfa.·k Cci$}1111fl't' tlll'lft'lh'Ck black amlwlwt' pl,uli $It 11 ~~ru)1.llHt raH, f~a{~lh Lmtrcn

Let me the backd1op of~ classiC gray bultneas swt to hdp illustrate some of the more pracnced aasual tech mqucs. Without the dosed shin collar and necktie• ordert.~ glamour to highlight the face atld 611 up the \uid under the chta the ~down •~me- must still frame the £tce\\1thout disna:tingfium it 111e button-down collar accorttph~ such a mission. be~11use of bo" tts &stened..c:lown pomb help 1t to stand Up around the wea~et! neck When worn under a racket. ItS m placf' s~· ron~s ~ snappy dan dt~mg up the face more than other sporr bin collars. l.ayerii1g a dark T-sbirt t.tndemeath adds vaswal intemt whiJe helping 611 tn the space left bj the open roHar. \s a ~

nile. dosing a ~· collar cmates a ~ .mage bcc;••se rts relative neatric."Ss hdps tHe face to ;appear more iauporram: (see ptge Ul2) eamp,.st)ie tollm should be a\'Oided af the idea is tOr the shirt alllar to .afd ~to the~ ja<\efsopen ~ Tbe~ofa a.._,bmd~theirftat-lyingcoUats~dowtrtihe

~of~ neck. leaving the .thtuat uncovered aod the wearer

laxikingdLShev.ded. Lt1ce\\i5C' a knit Jldrt buttnned at the neck imari abl) ~ a tidiery less «.iisuaalool However.. •rs soft knit colbr can be easil) ~ ~ the jackets sturdier collar rt ~ ends up gcthllg tm;:d•ed oot of ~itil)n and &o;ng down thr neck en-fins the face praonce This can be awidedb, rnattng a JPOtl awt With only diose 1mit !httts Rlillfewith the-~ m&sraua..eone1*"-sclf--:eo0at. which SitS on.thr neck mudt h'h awown sport-shin tol~r. ~ ... me it;Jn~

•dt.rted• mod: tunJt

knitcoiLmliR•e ~~ 61berse:t~~- ~•J:• tbJMt:hy ~&lw:• Oftfw d1M~P.¥f ~. . . "**~~~ hsie~• eltt:attJ N ~ of b~.

ocu·~itwithancd•••~r.~tit

a .....

.a•.- Jld&eti. 'Vt••t;

........ -.

~ ~~

I

In lhl' ru ... h Ill expand th . .· ...nnonnllmundanl' ( r ihl" "ttll Ct"rnun !!uiddmt~ ~l"l tr

Pl

pled upun h w mstancc. t I"} mg to mnl. . ..: a \Ull j.td ct double J'- J -..pun 1:1. -krt g~.: n~.: ull} It \t"-1;. ",11 \\ tth nL•ither \uir n)m' tend to rl't.un thetr Jre.,,~ probh' h~ 'u1ut: of their fabnc e;.nu)( flh ur [Kl'!'l

.md rht•tr tlattt r. poli:-hed buuon' lltl· cxrc:ptiun-.

to 1 hrs

ntk \Hmld be tht ctt ......I • ctttttlll

g.tbn rd lne or the htrgl.!r-dun micro scale t: hl:d~ !1\UI\ J.Klt: t p.trticulLtrl\ 1( .lppnint tad\\ uh ..porn..: r hnrn 'it) lc buttl111'-~ and p.ucb t) pt pocb:t!i ()pmt

lW

tlappcd p.udl [llXh.: t'- c.m .tbet

'' i 11 t er -.:tilt of cordun ') D.RfS.SI'CI

TPl F

i\1 .\ ~

llt' 1\\ ~cd

.1

Jnd~et \ t.:asu~JI

Jspt.r...IHt"ll"'

Ja~kl"L ti ~.:uu u

\H"'uld .:&1'\o pnJb.1bl) mak~ rl11.: cut 1 Ji.,. \\ c .1nng .1 LtU1\ t.:ruh t:

,jngiL" (II((\\ ith culT linl...". :--pt)rtmg unl) Llll~ bn t h sl') I~.:• :111\1 ~,..,phi "il ir.t t ion.

trtp

h:tll (lc'll ~till U'iualh u1c.b up f.tlling, -.h~.lrt

l'atclz undJ1ap pi1rkcts permrt 1his catt4m smt jad:n ra assume tlw CLlmposure ~fa sporr coat.

111

DRE

-DO

bile a dark spott jacket can make an} man look more professiomd bustn\: auual remoH5 the protective wrapping of such taiJored refuge to reveal neath Built on the fOundation of the $pOrt shirt-and-trouser combiruttio~ ti· ~;(aj£C m dressiness from.a h{!.tb-qu:dity cotton~~~ or sport shirt atop dark wooJ trousers to '"ell pressed khakis or c~ fean below a Ane gauge. long. .sleeve. cut-and sewn knit:sl'ltC h.>ng as ~las$tc fabrics and pattems are relit.~ up014 arriving :tt a busit~csslike should not test the coordinating skills of the avernge fashion -pressed maleTaking a page out of the t\\--o..p~ece suit' story. the le$s contrast gc!nerated by. ~~ tound abo"e and below the waistline. the dressier and more elongating the effuct. ltt ge. . dark rolors worn under- the chin tilt the shirt-slack scheme toward the dresstet ide of L41Sual spectrum Just as most shin--and-trouser cootditiations acquire an increased .. when anchored b) a deeper-toned bottom.. sequestering darker colors on the lower half body tends to produce a raUer. sltntmcr outbne \\ ithout a j:tdcet a.~ the top layer. the shirt takes center~­ the hrrt component- to c01111ttahd authority. it should be collar~ pre£emb:l} c:trt either one pit-ce or with a collar- band. These twa construetiotts help the ool1ar to around the neck, better presenting the face. Ideally. thtdte&-do\\n business-casual shin should haw long lcteves,sincee\'CA up lt."C\'es canvey a more profussionaJ look than half leeves. lf:tavore.d. shor-t smcs rharro just above the elbow g.vc a slight~) more dignihed ~e thanmi~-btQ!ps -vers-.o the Duk~ of Windsot: plF 76). Although the) till c;ommUrtkaJe an attitt.uk
rne to the conventional woven sport:shirt.

~toned ca.tthmer.e~silltpdltowril1

neck. mock tuttle: or rollued mudef can lend .retln~nt w ca&ttr.al ~a Aidl~ the sophistication depends on the fabax and. &msW. ~knint)_pS ~w.eu ~II types. UoJn dms ~ to feat1B; cord~ tP kh•kis. Like-itt -wo m ~ shtrt houtd be~ 1ft~ ~lbt ®Ill',.. and ~lf4-(\W*: ~One way to rnject mdiWdsabty mto the. & ~ is 1:0 and tex~ ~ tilt parter~ the must &if-Mk.~h it to n.~a or stnptd sport~ ._,fc;{ .olhl ~ ii'M: *115• ~ ~ ~&om the shin a paftftiUtt ihe soJ14 bdttoa. ~- ~w·•~•~ thetW4·- •·~ li

While ttxtua: ~ • bP&~ •·lli!s~ ._....,~oh~

flh{L....tJ

of ...,,plu,rKah:..-d In \\inter. m.lltL~

tlni 'bed

'' erh rc,·mr~·J \.'"Wd'- ur !l.mnel p.1nr . . t 'ottl'Ht

\ 111

t:\

J

nmre

L.bU.1I

1

knit.' or nnd} hru,hcd ,, 1)\ ('II~ (jill b~ p~ll r~d

.111 t.:'\cdlent natur.tl l:tbri(" (l>f trou.;ers. blll n

Jrnrudc dun 'H'l,J Jn tht: 'pring .md summt·r.

JJJ~...J ttl Lht ma\ . •tlthou~h ~

1n art

litH.'ll HI)USer'

crm bL"

of £heir ~h1c i:- in tht"ir t'bli~.ltOf) \\ rink!i11g Drc~!ilt'd lo\\ n ~

~

l u..,nw"' lx"Hll\111" "hnuld be pre:-. ed ('fl p w c'\uJl' prul~- .. ~i ~uali .. m ~md ~nltd hl'lttOm

1 he p.tncnwd \H\\cn rop

an:- th~..· bL"drock l)f rh..:- \Ire'~ dv\\ 11 bu~i

n~.. -. uutfh tntn.ldth..·in~ .mother Ll~ cr hdp~ m~.ii\(~l''i~ ing d1~.' lnuk. The th:cklii1L' o( l he rln~'ic ~r.l} f

,- ,..

,h, rt P'-·d~mg um from tllh.l....-r a sp, lrt :--It in·~ l"nil.1r cw
I nr..:rmg .1

llt!-~..-k

\

t'f

cudig.ln ,fec\clt's~

\l.''l

nn t~'P i~

irum t hL' .:hll t ·, p.n te1 n " lHlld bl.' rhe m
Jth.)tltl'l'

tt·L"hni"'lllt:. Repenting a col,lr

10 i llll..'~r:ll (" 1h~.,'

1hi rd brc r i 111 i'

lhstNE

c t\.)1 ,\

d1L' '' hole.

\\lui"'· "lum.uJ,... 11L'Cd n,, dr-.,tppenr bent•mh tl'l:ltt~cr tnp~ t{w a bu~itlL'"~ image. In} c'r ~" eatl'r-: 111:1}

h lt:ft umu ·lcJ h

hur

t

ille

undcn .1lued

urpn-.mgl~ U"-.:fttl.tddm~..m

tsh blL'm~ ' J.'

1111. nrtLlneJ.

(.btul '' Jrdrolk'

tn the \I~ I

"ouJd bl.' dw

<'tortlw 11\.:Ck&:'f'c:nf lr :-ub ltinnc f~1r.1

n ·lut.• under .1

!-tut

t.:Jcket Pr

tr.m-.t~,rnung 1hc most pH.:Ct'

pt111

co.H.

I

humdrum o( [\\\.l~

I I

mto .tn cn,t•mblt: of con:;idcrabll'

dn · \\ ll h lc.•s!\ pracnct• and . . kdl rcqtu rc~.l ttl til..' .t brt\\

ut•

tbt: nt.•ck1-'I'~Jrf fi:llded

n ._t

1

h1\lr m h.111d knL't Jdd~ a 'P lt nf llair rn dtt

un.ltlt'fh.1t.•d lll'cklin~. tUrning thl· typi

\.II ltu k ~ut Jrt.'' :\ bu. . uiL><

- L·l'-UJI

outfit

uuu lltlll~hmt; '-pt.·cul .md de\.Htng a

1mp1t•

htrt .md Ttol~cr ('ILJttf1 uno .tn

~·n ·mbll' uf 'urpn .. ing 'l) li hnt...,~

OPPOSITE

~

RICHT

Drt'JS(J down business (t1mal

c,m look dtstir~guislred

AC~C ESSO Rl ZING -rJ-lE DJtE ~ - DO\i\1

13USINE S-CASUAL OUTF IT

th:u

llllllh

h sP h:\\ gurm~..·mo.; tu hdp com L')

Jrt:-.,ed up bcanng tach uccl\.--..;.,un bnt•m II ILl I\' 1111pnn ant. neC.lll!oit.' or l he beltl'd \\ ,1isdme'" \ l'iibdin rdatmg ft Ill ( JihL'f IlldPJ It

&.J

~.:·t d, 11·. t.J 1 t L'Xllli'l' l< dw I{ 'Ol" ear bdc>\\ i llllllCl''iLl tch 1

PRJ). J

(~

I H J 1\J \ ~.

" 1:-.c\

:.lL'h

ann.~' the •udlr ... l'\ L'l :til hnnnum 111t.:

~.:·d wing 0111.:\ hair Wilt· i 11 tl H' d ll>icl' of.u.!(l'~'lorie' em Jl.~~o pro!TI(lt"" the u1u 'it.'

in~· r,)ll· 111 lc.~~.Jing rlt~ 'ic'' L?r

( ' " .t:

o d nh

tin: ub,cned·~ conlmuntcal!un' remer. Jlj, t:Kt rulcrawag

t&J

L)J1L'·~ h,Jirl·tllur :u tlw \\:ll1-1tlint!and :1~nin.1t rhL· fuut i:-..mOihc?r h1ghh.J rt:,·( nHlWrki~J -.trat.l•'t•rn ~

~

~

I'~:ll'k brcm 11 Je.nhcr bL'It.., a11d hnm n 'iliC'dL· 'hoe" r;w•e l11e Ll.\lc leH::I t•f.tn\ ~4'-U~tf "lH

fn lor rhl.' ~ l il.tlll''-~ :md o1hcr clnhing nfictt'ltl:ldo:'\ nu ''~arabft: b~.·rn:r '>Jgnafit:-. ont, t~mJmg dun .1 pa1r ofbro\\ n -..uedc ~hoes. \ rorn \\ Hh JC'tlllS or : :1 "llJl. 'PL'n "'ilun or ptln J:1d.(•t till"' ft. r lllt'f

~} !11hLlJ

or \\'ind't)J'd&.)llJ hn~ bCC0Jil(' J

'\lOll ~

of ~\Cr\d.J\ ~ , chic

~ftxinga bl.tt:k .:liJigator bdt \\ith a p:11r o(black ._}jp on~

"'} IL" p:1nicularl) i( rite \\l':ll't'r·~ hair lwppcn'\

tO

b~

111

1111p0-it' J

dtff~·rcm lll"'-'l (

dark acct)rd llo\\t.'\cr uule-. .. 1h\;: ,,uttit ~

~.1omin:liH Ct>lllr-.c!K·rn~.· Ctllll .:1i11~ a S!Tong bind: morir (:lltt1.,ometimt•'- c\{~n tl1~.•u). dn~"' d<\\\11

lc.nht·r accc~~ori~.s ilrc bt•tL&..T kep1

111

the wn rnwr. t:~1nhi1'r bro'' n f~nnil). "h~rher rn r.mneJ -s d

die k·:uher. '1111plt.· pin 'l~:11. t)l"~)baritic liz:t1\.l. \\c.lring l1..lp qLmliq bn-mulc.nht:·r~.:nnt:"hl"· 11} rhing ., , lll'll inl·lo~<.:' prcJxirrJrt}

·rhc t.'Xct?pt iu11 r\) t hi~ p rc ...l~ri pt i( m '' ot dd bl· rlm:-.e men t n ing w nif~ct a lllllfl.;' dn\\ n tO\\il denll'~lnor.AI!huttgh black bel t ~ :md -.!we~ \\ould not be rhc d~h:-inc.;r\ dll.llCt'' t l appomt hi, chino . ~l muld tlw fa~h ion an) I} h.:' be '-\\ :uhcd in lower-ri't'. 11m fnmrt.•d kh.Ilt" bl.Kl.. lc>athl'r rc,onatc!> a llllll'l' nwdcrni,t mamra rhan brm\ n Sh,x·~' should complcmcnr rhc l IlL'~' lt)a..H\H'nr i~

utfn a.' a" lmle and drt: ' du\\ n bw;J

nn exception A m..m·... :-hoes n:fl~l.l h1s hl.lt.' llllJfC th.m .un

odlL'r ite-m . . ,( dothmg. and llo_lthing rt't1cct~ more pl

rl) nn

3

11Lln\

dl"l''~i11g st} lc th:111 unp~lfi,hed or broken dn\\n t~;on,eJr Tit.. 'IHl (• o( l''ll1l"'\ ,hoc'

bro:1dca-;b hm' ) ou mnn.1gc dca.ul"' t."'lle

cia II~ i tl·m~ requiring muimen.nKt'

The tl.h.1iti1Jilal d1:-rinaion

bcnh'Cil

dr('"'" .md

Gl~ual shoe~ u:-ed h) bl• rhar the fnnn,>r 1.1 ·t.:d Up. \\ htlt

the I:Htt.'r:-lippt·d nu.lod.l) . .. omeofrh~be...t loukm~(.t.'lt.Il ..hue~ nrl?" ing tip or cap

mlmJ\\ n ~n~dt• '' uh J lug :.ol~ Chunkier ~ol ., "·hangc dtt wnc

dft.'.'. . up w d1"'"" do\\ n Re~MrdJe.'- ~1f ho\\ dn: '"' dtl tJf .m

r

I

Hk' bn.· -up~

A

dn:ss·,iowiJ ·t·r.rsionou a drc.sml up cf,1Sstt.

~--

nudlr

frLHll

..

uppL'r :-brx."'... dt: . .tgn tf It

C.Jllllt'H

lx-

pt'lhhL-J hkc matt~' fini ...ht•" nr ·ucdc.

11 ~('m·mJI)

t:JIJ,

111tn

th\.·

molt'

c.t!>tl!ll ~hot' ·.llC!!nn (an

e'\t:L~pt t\.m of LllUt"'l' bt·ing rcn!r. . e c.tl f",.km ~:;hoc.•. '' 11 h k•;H her "ule . . )

\' tlw . .h k' gci." more !'Ub. . r.mn.tl If'

'0 'hould the~ . .

mrcnmm fht.• thin blaLk or nm'\ dn: . . , \ariCt) h.l\ c

~ht.k!'i

ck rlw Lhirlcr rht? snck. the m,lft.' Gl~u.tl

110 pi.Kt'

in~ ide- the~e l.u-gcr propnrtillnl'd

Ltkl' drc . .s ho . .ter~. cn:-ual hu'e mu . . t be kmg en~..,ugh to rm c-r bare skm "hen

.:rP ~'-;

In gezwrJL rh<-~; -.hould be in the mil? t~mc .1s llw )I,

llflC.

leg :uc

lnlrkolor pat u,'rnt:d socb Glll

tt\lllscc \

en her p.trmen' uh l he m.>tbt."r .md lux· tnne '~~' blcn~..l "it h .1 ~..·olor :!btl\ c l he-'' ;Ii~t.

'

l--

-

D l~E -- ~ I N G F0 R T I-I E J0 B I NT E RVI EvV

1b intcn IL'\\ "ln not penn it n great deal Cll" timL' lll crrare the right impre..,.,iull l'cnplc rend tn "1/C }OU

ou In the

up in the fir..,t thirl) "L'Ctmd"'. "hkh r:m inllucnL"c ho'' £hq dm~.."~ lll imcr:Kl '' nh

pt'nCL''

uf gJtht.>rmg inrlwlll~HIOJI. the intervil'W<'r o.>n.:-:6l)U,Jy and un~
m.rk~ JUdgments b~t,cJ on }\.lUr ,·isual and t

)J"'

'l'rbal cuc'i. The 111o~t com pel Ii 11~ 1h )11\ crbal indka

art.'\ nur dur hl-·" allcl c \ t:rall gfl)tllllin~.

·' housmg uht.· righ1 "·Jut hcs [~,r .l job 111 ten icw h:h a h' :l) ' bct:~l d3ulll i ng. ~ hL"nmc (·,·en nm&\' t'f :1 ch~1lk·llg<· 'Iince corpl1f;Ht' drc,, co~..k"i ClHI rmm.· to bt' in flux .. \.s husnk•-; mrirr...' llCJ\\ allu''" ~lr a hro.tder ran~c nf pcr.:>nnal c.:xprt:s:-1un. it al~o

lll\ ILL'' 111• m.·

mJrgin for t'rrnr. The c111didatt' \\ ho o;hm\:- ur, "caring th~.· righ t ciDthc~ ..

...

11M}

v

g.nn .1 '"' nnpl'tlt th .1d\ .un.1gc \n} ~m.tn .lpplicJrJr prepare~ for .1 job imrn j,~,, b} Cm1iliurizing ... him~'-·1( \\ irh the C< m pan 'hu me.' it compem i!:m ,rnd t h~ mark~tplacc. "10ll.t} Ill\ ~st igating .1 pro,pc(ti\ e cmplu) cr ~

\\ orkpiJ.:\: pt.'~{lfld

111C<11llllg

u-c.. dre-.f\ c.udc shlmld .tlso be

p.-lrl

or the prl'l illl111:1ru.:<...

B~Hmd

irt· 'mg '' dl .md m.1kmg ._t proJes.~o~ional pn.:'t"'lllati• m ) ou \\ .mL ) nur choKe oF d<'l hl's w 1n. ,. "tth th pr 'pt'L'U\\.' org.ttnl..ttnm'~ culturf'. \lrlmugh it t~ al\\ !J}' prd~.'r:thlc ro err uu tht:· l)\cn.:lrL:S~ed JdL rf.t ~.ump.111) LXc..utJ\t:" happen LO be• p.-triiJILO k~llll'> nnd turtlencL'ks. ,Jhm ing !Lp Ill .1 thnx pH.·~:

<>uu Jlh..:l biJ~kbce up 1\\\'ould 111H Lv pnttiJJg}lntrh •q foot fnnL1rd. \ppmprtat"L"

llltt' nIt'\\.•a tire \Cill.h

hornt \(irk l hmk .1bout

rhc\\AI\ tl1c

p~r on

thl.'! mcssngt: t h;tt Itere j._
\ ntr £'1(thr m~h dll' l'"-'" uf a 'trangll~ ~..nn~i~.lcr I

<\u"l

t

\.,.

\\hal

dtd Ius

\.lr~~s 11·) t., l'hjuthrl)

"t.'l'

\l)ur clothe!' lllJ\ nnnowKc :~bottt \ott

.f

•

•

tht m.ttl tn ing rn sh11n1m up d1l' ~nrp{,r.ttC' c.trCL'f pl de \YHhin his CXI!o.ting L' llnp.tn\

d t ~ t~'r tit~.; pl)'lltit~n \OU J.c;pm.· ro llllld nor the OTIC }Oll cutTL ml~ hme

RY

GLO~

Cr ,.

refel"(.'llCcJ dcfinmon-- c1ppear lD ' " \Ll L.\l'

sene" of n:u-ro\\ foldr~hra.7 dwt ~~mblc dtosc of .10 accordtnn. <\Cl ORnll'l"

ru o\T'S

\

111 n

\tlit:'TI.r surrrJ: \ l.lcclco;!>. pull-on

ariguuu:.d b} Princl' Albcrr Comorr ('« p1~~

Qp~u

tnb fronr shoe \ 1ctoria's Prince

1()2)

lh• l£11. such .1, polka dots, rhat rr~!p~at~ conunullu~h .mel n:gu1.trl) OH!r the t'ntire :-urf:lCl' of .1 (II! (.~Y tl~ potgt> -~ ) \ll {.,)\ £R \

ALl AC\ \ rn~nbcr of the ~mel ~1"~ctc-... s1mdar to rhc IJ.un:.~ faund tn the \ndc.m JHghl.mcl..: UJ Clul\' .111~! Pcru It 1s u dJppl!Xl .nnmJI whu.-.c Utldcrco:u is dClwnr ~n.h \Ct') fint= h.ur '
b.: d~dcd from a grcJn.trietrofsoft grars. ru und bm'' n . from pure '' hirr- m a ntst} black \MF1 JL\:-.; loo~

\.

dc~cnb.:-d

b) Brook-:

c;cL,

Hrothcr.~

me 19l9 11uBn 1(· ts. Jbm-e :Ill. di_tinguishcd by ir<. n.uur.d!US$ dothi!s should be wont for comfon :md

uncon ciou .. c.·a"e 111c wc.1rer :<>hould look hkc himscl~ .tn,lno other no m.:men\h..tt the OCUJStOn or "h:n he h..LS on fh,,. cannot be accr1mpli~hed wuh clothe~ th.u bavt• urnethmg abum rhcm rh.tr i~ foreign TLl rh~ v.carer s h.1bJt lirspnsiuon, or ~uryd.i}' app1~ar:m.:~ lud~.:cd natural clothes, like n:uunl P"opk·, .1rc :tl\\ars rhc rmm plt·n~•ng- ( rr Dean . \d1'-'"on. pag,, VJ)

Also culled •boormakcr'o; f'lni"h .. A prott.>s.; of i!ppl)lng t.tin v. .1-..:, or uil tl1 Jeathcr .tfJu,\ mg It to be .tbsorbcd or "'Cl, .Htd Lhen rubb111g rhc le.1thcr \\lth ll doth or hruoihmg ir. Begu111ingaround \

The first is a smglc knm. while rlw second '"a Gordian knot with one end cro~.;ing over the t'thcr and hrld 111 pl.tci:' with a ~tiC'kpllt. J\lso, a dtro\\-over nctk ~carl for sponswcar. (.."u Caf) Gmm. page 169.) ~\UIH.RGJNL

A .shadt.· llf purple rcs~..·mbling rhar of the

t'ggpl.ant. I\ \Ct.: r.u.A rs· The t•\ o plc:.u:- it1 th~.· wpskks of Lrou.;c:rs 1,\..·:m:cl bei'\\C.:t'll rhe front plc.us .tnd rhc sid(• l!,•:un:. (S,·!' plc.ucd trow;cr illustrnlion, top nfpagc 61.)

B \C~

siuglc upeuing or sfit :u dw ha\:k of n ~armcnt Cl( varying lcngrh~. Jep~..'thling nn 1h..: srylmg oC dtl..! jackcr. (S''" page 89,) Vl.N'r: J\

B,\C~LE.'i:o- \\' \I~TCOAT: J\

mndern kind cl formal \CSt uuroduccJ in londt'n in 19.23 rnaJc without :1 back

.uh.l hd ..t in plncc h} mc~m;; ofhands. ia:.-tcncd with n buckle or Inmon, :lcmss the bat:k at the waic;diuc. An innm•ation of the DRF.SS SOFT cr;1 popuh1riu•d bphe Pt iucc of \\'.1les allowing tnr more comfon and coblnt•ss for male formal "\\car. 1 Iawes nnd Curtis, d1c l'nn~c of\Y.1lc~\ :-.hirtmaker, claim~ w have invented the gann~1H.

tailor\ sti~ch, a kj nd of 10ckstirch. diiTcl'ing fru111 others br covering the whole l,f the ni\CKS riTCJ J• The

... ud:u:c Getwccn the swchcs. wirh thl: tht·ca~l exposed 011 du: 11Ke of l he mnteJ'i:!L t\ "dl-ti.1rtncJ bnck~IHch

ghcs a p(~r.fc..:trlitH! of SCam.

rJQ.L'lNG

19~6 Jttr1qumg produced :.1 dchbcrarclr \\'l!athcrcd

p..uinJ.. ermchmg a "hoc s appearance \\hilc pa\·mg th1• wa tor the nch bro" n ~hoe·s acccpt:tncc for tO\\ n and bu mc.c; \\car (Sec p.tge l91 ) ArRnN fhe \mcncan term for tht: wtdc ends. front nd b.at.k. af a long uc r\Jt;o a nu'>cd or flat scam round ~ situ~: front or "amp (Sa ~hoc pagt:' 1CJh)

\tH. 11 1 h houom c1mc of a shoe from the heel m rh 1--:zfl ,f thl.: fot"'l \RG't u

\ mulnco)orr.;d titamund pancrn .somcnmcs

"JW m.crpl.ud usuafl)

111 '\\ oul

ong.mally kmttcd

111

l.ngl;md on hand fr.:un•~Cj 11 ts UO\\ made ll} m.tchtn~ und applu~d prunanh tu oc~ .md .li\\e:ner-. (~u I GJnk lll.ltr.l.

pJgc ~--)

:\R ~

c ll ' C(llltrn•:ti!JO ar·amt·~ C} c- the IO\'>Cr Ide of th .:~rmholt> to \\ luch the lec... r ofa 1adet or ~.:oat •~ qo n If tht~ an'<'! h~ dn'!d} n i.ot known :t'i a lugh .1nnhol • af 1t flrsloosel tt .,. kno,vn ao;; a hH\ ;JfmhLlft'

A r T \ "quan: ended ue wnlu~ach {.ltd uf c.:quaJ \' fth '•"rn pnmaril~ for (nnn.tl d:!\ \H':tr Ocnv111g it rum· from \q:-ut H~ th th~ Englt h r..tcetrad \\hc•n• th~ taa: ~~ finr \\iUn. The.• , ot .coust5b of t\\O kmu

HAl IO I.t.AR: A

!ugh milirary cnlbr thntlll.l) bl.' \\Orn

n.u or llii'IJCJ up ~IllJ buttoned. The 1.'\)ll:tr is

b:tnd nf m:ttc•·ial :about three and a half indres wide, on a rain(o:n or rnpcn;lL The name dedvc-. frlllll t1

IIAI.?-.1.'\CAAN HAL ~1101.. J\ do~cd-rhro.lt shoe" ith

a lact:d front. derived frum Hal moral Ca~tle in ·.:mlnmi (&r Oxford ~hoc. page 19:;.) BAI.ANCr MAin.:'\: l;uH.h• klr the workmnn

111

~cwmg

the \;mou scctium of clothing rogclht•r corrcc-tl) as well as inJtCiltions ro the CUi"fl't' th.:lt this h:1 been d, sm.tll v marks nrc Clll :a Lhc knr.:c :md hip for the lllllllg up of the rcspccrhc p.trts lnlhi" way. the JMI \NCr: of the Wh1.)le g:trfllCIH IS pt'C,\l'f\TCd 1\A Li\NCE- A term 11~cd lC describe

rlw

lt.thg of :t

g.1rmcnt BAll

rh~ pan

of dJC shOt' just: bchmd tlu· toC'i

A Joost• fitting co::u bas~~! on the nrtginolnulit:tJ} \'Crs-ion worn b) dte Pmssi.tn \rnt} HALM \CAA •

c... r~Jte nc.lr lmcrnco;~. -:cotlau\1. tl feature~ rnghm shoulders and a ~u·ro" mrn~d do\\ n"\',Jlar: bmh coll.u anJ coat art: c.:tllcd

N;uncd

rl)l"

Bnltn:tiOilll

;If)

hat· for shorr I~ALMOR.U sof1 p-caUco;s Sc\Jtrl'ih hcnd~cnr for men n~uncd rn the nmeu!t'nth ~t!tUUry u1 honor of Qul!t'U

-.. --

cas de nr Hal moral, wht!re 11 \\'11!; ln·qut?udy worn Also c.:~llcd'" liun ·o ha.nr.cr."' or ... l:umn}.• :tftt·r a IH·rn i11 one uf J(!,lJcn Hunts• poems \ t\l\lt i-1':, )!rCat

large. b1 ighcly colored h:mdkcrchi~f ''orn tic\1 :tround dtt! nc·d:. Ongmall) mndc uf ilk rhq•\\'en· imported from lndt:tan rhccarh e•ghtccmh ccn tUJ) and worn hr rh,, Arnencan cowbo) Also a I Iindi Wt)t d !'or t} ing nnd drcing doth gi\N I>A:-INA· A

usuall\ ri ppe'd ap2n ro be mad m cl n :r nd\':l.nced and p mnanent fin ng

ffli r;

I\"- II ~TE A find\ :mvcn shr.:r.r ll" mred fo1u1 n: cotton or tnhPr fiber:. ud li r 1 mu m d J~n 1\apn tc a french 1!3H~r fim lmen \\I 111 Cnmbrai and fmr pmduced tht 1 th ( • UJruner" m the ... hm F:ilin

r

l?t.di ld )

A \\t;Ust-lcngtb mglc br~ t "oolcn J:td.et wiuch wru rcgulau n fi .t d c.: L: in \\orld \\arll lhe t'l"t wedL r 't\'llran HA1TLE )A<..KET

BA!-:Dt)ll f R s I'RI rr:· A tH.1guna1 snipe .tppt::a·ring on I)

nun: lwlow 1he -,-Q

- '' DRJ. )JNG Ttl£

M .\,,

lll''s

knot.

BAil.A1 II I i\ ·A fine~ rcxnrred \\'OJ sted

doth ui a broken H ll I NG l'ft~ct, \\ hicl1 prnd11..:~s :1 pt•bhldtkc surface 1r b m:uJ,· prim~tdlr in wool for L!\'euing dothes and S1U: riJr llt."L'kwt'a r

sportS>\ l'nr m a '"':meq of fi hn BAI"\\INv ~namcgJ\(;fltoahP\\ tit \\h

I~ HllOUR COA'l; i\

da'>Sic Engli)h hunung 0\crro:u with a '>tand up hmwn corduro} nllbr an\i thmat l.adt dt!mil . made frl)m dark greennih.kinnf Cm pttnn cotltm ~1nd linl-'J in a dur;:~bll' briwu couon pl:ud Its

tTilPht square ends resemble th:tl nf bar "JUg bei ~ "£ I' n~l\\11 as tJu~ dub ho\\ in Ammc.a IllS n hrm tl\ shnpo to dte bune.rfl} bo\\ arr. H·r rh n :1ln1m"rll l·o"• u 1 m d With a I:ngcr l.nl)r \\ ll 1a\ l f; und 111 ribbed sdk or ~tut for('\ t-rung ~c.ilr fir 111 il pancrm:d fabnc fur

---

multi pit.• pnl"kct~ and ''catht?rproof construcrtotl make it dti' squir..:-'s choice for coumrr 01 ell) \\('af_

fur fiber of a fum &Ino th 1UJike t u..st-d cxrcnStH!l} m the Jn:.tnufJctUrf' of :li 1t lut

BARl I: 'I COR:-:· All owr d'-~icn nf mimawre '-" pmpunions charJctcri;ted b) small, f:usu "corn" tri:lllglc~ used for rwccd and othct woolen fahrics

HEnFORf"' CORD A "JSter dot.h r

t\\ ill ~ wcarc

pattern 1~

•

achi~H~d

pagL' 180)

B \RRH CUFF: A single cuff anached 10 n ~hinslcc\c :md C1stc11cd with n button and .1 buttonholt• BARR"\ MORT· GOt.I..AR;

A low-~ct, attacht.>d drcsb shirt

coll:tr with kmg poilus. first worn br John B~trr) more in the btl' 1910" and rhen adopLcd br llollywood ~a.1r~ :wd ot hero; in California. it later becmnl' knlm n as- 1he.: C.tlilornin colbr. B,\R ~S IIAI'f:D I J£:.1\

four-in-h;1nd ric in ''hich th\: l'Uds ar\.' of equal\\ idtb and parallel

A ''ariarioJT of a pl.lin~,VL':I\'l' f:1bric in

"bich two or lllOrc yarns arc worked lTI 1 he W\RI' and WEFT to proJucc a pWrt!d c::m~ baskt·r t!li<.·ct.lwncc 1he n;unc It is used mainly in shining" and spon j.tckt.'lings. (h:tord doth is:t type ofb.1~kc1 \H':t\c.

B,\SQ!.If 1\li lUl : A d1,.N.' ilrrhtg, round~crown~d ~·np with no "isor c1r brun. ns worn in rht.• I~Il ..qtt<-" coun1 f')~ (Sec the Prinl"t.' of \Val~s p:tgc 8 far left phNogrnph) rr: li1 't.'W loosely tog~.:thc'l' or f~·btcJt r\'mpornr:iJr m pl.tn:: with long, cusil) n.-mmcd ~utchc~ In men' tailoring. it j., u:-u::J!I) us~d tv rcmp('ltanlr hnld dtl" p:trb of:t g:trmclll so that it em be tried on l\A:o,

n,\S r1 P F 1'111 ~G. The tiN

fininl! in thC" crcauon of a tnh.' custom t:tilored j.1i"ker \~hell nr·r.:m tf'} on· i prt'p:tr('d dirL'Ctl} from a pap~r patt('rn crl!~tcd b) dll· tmlor This ~kdr.ton coat hz U" c:mv;t~~ wch•d 111 :-c.uns ba.~1cd. ftlHH edge:- mrn~d in. collar ba~t<'d on. llld, ~LlfTlCiillh''-, Ollt' :.lct.•\·t~ t:1Ck~d

011,

nftcr \duch II

1

cl

\tlh 11 CU.

Br 1 1 t E .B.'\C~ The bad: nf.a w:,usrroat' 1th rounded co1 ncrs" hos~ length extend" be}ond rh. edt'- J tU t

its rorcpafl'-

Brwr. \ natural or und) e,JcoloJ of 1a.n.

\!..:" p. h: t

nt'

BrLL B01TOMS Fbres ot pants \\Jth fhred fi tin suggesting 1ht• :.h:tpe of a bi!U Ongmall the I r ''hire trou cr.s worn bj ml\"\ SG~man al l:n \\

rulor\ panr-..

BAll TACK: A stirch made in hcav'' \':tru w rcinforcl' • • rht: slip stitching that jomo; the bod} of thl· tit.~ at rhL· front bl3dc l'nd. H,\SKf. r \\T~\'1::

fAhnc 1U 2 nb \\e:J\C

ptqiU' t

TUn'

!..-d r corded efTccr It ''"25 first u cd lo maJ.c br~ l C. r the Booford rn.Iuia henct: the namt: It ongmJl r.c.,emblc~ CO\ ERT CLOTH Bedford cord com JQ \\O(')I couon. or blends (..\u the entcd SJ rt m n page liS) \\0\CtlStuTd\

b} comr.tstmg the WARP and WET r thrl•aJ.;, (Sec l lumphrt.'} f\ogurt,

"I hi!'!

l\1 A\ if R

I

BF~J OW!- PtE/.T dc'-1' fold at the 1dc f ~ t r coat to pro' tdc cnr.t fullness for comf n (~ t fmn Fonda. page 1 h) Hn LOW PO Ll lro tcmtcd .1: n p 1\ p!nch st)ic podc:~ with thr~ oadt•ptr c rh I :~:ermn dtl• pocke-r to c.\:pand 11tc e "tdt· JUCL" gt'' the:tppe:tr:aiLt:c of old [nghsJt firt: bgfnHl£ bdl lV. « ~lark Gable pag~ I.o-) Bl.MRE.R~· A trnde rtame for Cupr:tm mum nn Jl U. urrlh found m top qu~hf) J:IC~ t'nher a t. lor .,J~C\'C

hmng'

l~tNt..HMADE .\

mlsleildmg lC'..rtn 11~ Uft£ l t percent handt:rnftcd shoe m~de on J ben h h, ~ crafr-snuuL T
Ahem:nmg !impe!- ot e-1 \\d ppeJ u"ualh "hue nnd R~"'lor Th \ \\Crc <'ngm 11 ro world mnrkt"r.s from llt>n~ India d rc found 111 "him~ (Str 1-aH· and wnmer 1 t1 -,hitt r-abnc-p g:netold) BENGAL 'TRJrE5·

~-----~-

BE"RrT \ bruulcss.. Ufl\1-Su~d tnm dTt•ct cap of fch \lr

BLOt"

t~hn~

fab1r~ rr,llll i:.trn.•d woo~l

\\:llkmgshort." ofdtc t}lc-· \\Ortl an Iknnud.l hrcndmg to Jbout the brc.tk in the knt•c. "' th 1r 1de ,~.tms r.tngc &om t\\CHt) tu r\Wnt} U\'O rnchc (11t'4 pagl·n 2 :md 1 -l} BERMl D'l IIORH

front

no. Scr. nrstu rxT l or-:-. rRL'-.;:"1 !I.JN.

\\IN<.. I M ~

f he back of.1 pckct \\ 1th a G ' ' I 1 or 1!" \ 1 ruru I' lEA 1 s:xt-cnliu1sr.._ from ~hlluldcr m ...,:;u tlmt• ou .1ch stdc wwnlly with a srtrdu!d on hnlt

belt 111 b;tck (Srr p:~gc 1o6)

1St M K \\ ncu fh..: Black \\atd1 or tli.J.ck G11:ml. \\,l'i mg.mafl) a grcmp uf n.·ru:~nd~.: c..1rs rccrunc~f b) The km f f n~bnd to chcd: mmblc,omc I IighLmcl dans Titt' \\ m~ J parnnti.tdmtd of TART AN or I'U.I 0 It 1 the umf. nn tnnJn of the Unnsh t\rm} ·:. 4.2nd Ht hbnd R.t:gamt·nr the C:unphdlt.1nan mums dtl' dl " .md .., futc 0\L::rch\:ck Popul.u m men\ \\~ar bc-~J c It unnbmc mo cia~ JL blazer color , na\) >1nd ~ 1 tlu: reb\' ~nrng 11~ .mother hlazcr po tblllt) Or Bnu h bwdc tlus I~ CXtnl ti.allnc.:~ nt the J41ckt-t shouldt: r bi.IJ, ~ C'nmtruc(ion ongmat rng uth U~t lfn r.ulors m rhc \\e,.., r nd London Ill I Itt' bt r• 20~ lr 1 .1l • d1e BmLh tcrrn filr tht· hroadl r l"r J f 1 f Jl R I 11 !\N h knot \\ lru·h u'iunll) hangs tu du.• fl-onr ol the under t. nd ofJJ ncckuc '\!No. rht> c11dc; of .t ncm ru

nunt

or

rhl: t'l! t bl.u:

u.erc bnght J;Qtrlct 1lcX\.'t \HlrJJ h) tuclcnt mcrnlx-r uf dw l.ad) r-..litrgaret Boar Llub .11 ambndg lm\ r.:rnt A 1ukmg n:te1-enu w a"bl.1/. •o( l1r " applied to bnghd srnpt•d boauog J•b.lu:t hkh bt'G.I~ popul.u- 111 d1 1 8 llu t} 1~ rohcr.:d t1 ut th l')J• ~ \\1th the modem bLazer r:o~O , rmg 1 n- Imtl Jnt} tl cl c 1\mt h a\'\ RH HR. bm ~ r onll' 11 t rum bltz..c"r·~~tud (Set page J '')

B

l

1

nr

r-.;

Tlb: t rm d cnpm· of a (~tlmc 111 '"'"'"h a5

rhe m.;a~p patt'trnt!d alter the rmlH.tt} buutc;

W:J}

bm

.tnd cum

If :\

•Ut

when wet

nc~.tkd smdt

l.oo"·

lmroJucL·J br 8cjuiu magazine m the ~pnng ot ICq~, the [\~)fd 1 ook \\Xi :t rt~ICI son W thl" J.td: of nc'' tashions during and just arrcr· \V\VII. £3.tsmg H ou th~, appeal of the: large \V!NDS1JR knot :md 'omm:~ nd spread-cnllar dre-::s shirt, l:.~rurl~ fa~lmm dcpartllll'lll propo~cd ~ lw~H:l ro roc luok oi owrsizcd .tpp:u-d fc.uuringJullt~r suit l·h-·kcts "it h prt•millL'lH . lh,uldt:r.!', .lggrl'''J' c- paw.: rued llt.'C kwc.tr, masSJ\'C k'H:In_ .md thtd: ru ucm.R (,,mwear \ldJOm!h th~.• I ' Bnld lc•ok ll ·~t Jtll)lllt:mrun bph~.-· ncx[ dcc:td.: iT unhill.hed t\mcricauml~n\ L:l!HI.' Crom its r>rooks [kothc:n; ~.n ilc R,·w~mchllr. inittariug .\m,·nc-a'~ Jll\I'UWUI'J spit';1l illh1 Iht! 1<))0!' (1()~ rl N f:~ It\ I 1.00 "· ! hl• 1\)60- 1'1 \COCl\' Rl:VOil n I 0 N, and the dt.spl.lSahJ!' ltt!lhioth (>f the 19-os HOJD

p.1lc.- tnnt: uf tan suggc,ri\"' of 1hc: color oi n slaslnl .. bra" n bi..cuu (Sri' pag~ 2 53)

n ;

thro.tt

irwlcg:uu rec111 l{,r ,1 stilT bc•somcd ..:\'l'll rug :-.hirt. 1.. )ng111.1ll). rht· fr\)ms lit~·rallr hall robe borlcd ro rcrum·e the.: srarch fllr ".t:.hing

Rb .(l 1 .\

1

op~n

f\011.1 D l>ltiiH" An

BIRD UL \ll U\~T\\il"\t.>tt-Unmgorncck\\l!llrf':tbt•Jc '--' mJdl: from u sm;.1U gcomctnc p.urcrn '' ilh n dot ru~~tmg .t bird' c\c. Tfti ... fang ;)olid ~1111 is a (.1\- nrc ot bespoke utlors and t hc1r murL' . t} li~h parr m. ( rt \\ nncr· m tltco -.:·mtt J-abno g;u~rold. fi,IJt"d nn. pag~ 9J )

tl d

ur ,lwt.: \\itlt a Jo\\

HO,.\TLR.Su l-U'fNIT

OC:.:J.:

<.;

mct.ll blt!Cb

honz-t>rl!:U c)pcning :11 rhl• tl•p oi a knit wd pullm cr.

81 kJ ,..., \bbrc\l:trcd- nle ~\Hm :~hons, ad:~ptNI ir,,rn \HUncn o: unrlcnH~:tr

nurrn

pnnttng

1\('1 \1 NlGK ;\

Ui\5 Cl)r-,; TRl

Bt -'1/fR

hand

HJ lJII 1 PGI~ ,\n c~igc.: nwdc up in w;u:ll flrw.hl•d \\it hout outside sllt,-luug

Br rc Kl t:waOIII made. a rcrm .tpplir I m 1 ngl.tnd to .urlcfc, m.1d~ to mdt·.-du~tl ('rder

fll

(lf

of

b,• Gene-ral <..lchh:1rd I ebC'rcchr \Oil Blucher \\ho l~!d tit~ J'ru,"i.ln .trtn} again."t 1.tpolcon. \lso known .1., .:1 nr fUn (.'lu pages 1--;. 19~)

tl.tp I .ufdc:J

l

O\'t:r

\n Llld mcrhod

\\0111

OM

Bt LLl

\bee

BLUCJH:R

A t.ulonng term for d.n in.;cr pt,xk~t made "nJt a rurnm "~ltcd edge abo\'~ the plxkct opc.ning It a-. cnlk·d a dl1ublc bos.lm pod:~ ifbflth top o.nd botmm c.dg'-"~ W\ \Wit" .tnd ~o·allt.•d .1 ilapp~.-d b~om "hen a

Bf

l'lu~·TtNG

\ cnwboy- inc;pir~'-1 ~tnng uc m:lt.lt· \:

B1) In T 11

f

leather or hea'} brJided wrJ with metnlups fu tcnt!,l wuh a 'llidc dcvkc

HOI TAn Clltin~ length of \\On) doth from tfrc loom. rullcd or ioldc:d Holt:. \-:Jr}' in lc:ngth 311}'\\ hcre from 6fq ro t:\'Cllt}tnl.!ter:s .md ,,jdth from thrrt} moto "ir"t} tncl~t:s

13oM HER J \C Kl r A \\ :11-.r length ja~kcr '' nrn b) C ~ \1r I oru: ptlots adapted f,..,, Cl\ 11J.m pllrpl1. ~ m lc.11 ht: r '' uJ1 lwl:pskin lining or m .1 i:tbnr \\ uh :3 prlc f:tlmc lming. fhl

1

1 FoPtwc,1r thor cXtL'Illh am ltl'lglu ab<.nc rhl.·

.urklt•. B•'IU,\lJNu I he ••:uJJl'oithc:grear ltal1.11t h.tlm.tkcl\ CUiltrthutmn roth!! TlULBl h.u l:rnHI} \\Hh 11~

..:h 11':1 tC'rtsttc Lrt:tngle patrh h• the ~..rem n ("t't Mtltu11 lluldl'n p:tgc 1 ~o )

B'-> rr Ll rhat n1 t

fT .1i11

A dc...1' ~ba.:Ir: nf grcL·n rc'\t'mblrug

gl.t~ botrlt_~,

hapt·" Hit 1 rnatkt·d n:~rro,\ing under the knut th.at \Hdcn~ do\\n n1 n·~cmblt: the h 'I'L' nf.a horde; pcruut .a \\tdl'r hoJ.inl Bl'\Tfl

r

t•ltH N

II AI'£ D fll

nt r , 1111~ c

.1

\ tit•

norm.1l ~•zed knnt

lk)TfOM Tht. S
tOt

:o;ok ~l:t{'ndmg from tu till' brcJ t ,j 1hc ht d uot lilt lud111~ tht· h, 1)

llOU• I I 1 n1111 dH· I rt.'ncll \... ord b11Utir mcan 11 tu a ·b•h:kl"" o•·"ringlct .. A um·dL) )am.utd fnu.sh:trccr prdduc'"J on dt•th~; \\hereby \"t'l") f;llJall. dra\' n out curl) lnnps 1r1 the! indi\'tdunl thread appear on rhf' surfncl' of rill· •n:ucn:tl

BnL N ll t

111,1

I dge!> fllllshcd \\ ith hr.~id or odu J

kmd~ of COH'rmg

Bot 1 ONN II RI. 1. ::~m:mon \:OrufkH\t: ,, ur 1du:r flm\el \Hilll on the bpd of a jnd.t•! orolllcrco:u (.Srt

Dnr ....-51 rru M

UOW Til .')n• 1\,tgC!I I bO 64

,.u

1\0WI I R .\u

tii'IH\\ARM

onvnu

tiU~ lEDou~ ~

t

t

mtfu.Jr) origin 1t1 kne mmi hn ... "u 1 th • r runmng \h1rnJ.Se 11 cmu•.anc; ''"''~ 05 nun \\ \RP thrt•ad ...., tl1c fl UINb pr'-l(iu 111g c: llcm lu t r

cotton l1f pol} lllcnds It u u tJ m luru un t; h and ~pnnM\i"ar (Sa rht.• ll.I.It J abn t i M1

1 11

URc l ~Df frum the lmltan brou-.xrr mt>;uung r pnck cu Mm fignn.: " A ltc3\'\ br~~ :111d ftgur ~d tll ~ unll) 111 all-o\crrlr 1gm uf r.uscJ figure or A .c

p;tg·~ 201 .2'31 236) \ .Hit>

UJ

mad~ l)) \\Ant throacl-" bt*m~ r.u~l m JA Ql !\Jm

nr Kill

\\l'iJ\ 1ng to

1 .....

1\o.x U OTII. A la<'tl\'), C•'I'IJ'.'It: doth. ()rigm:tll)' m bulT or 1:111 cok,rcJ M 11Tr.JN lt'ied li1 tlw •)VCtt.!O:ttmg tmdc 1\b('lus<.•d fflr llll'll\ SIJ~r·ENr•tRS

fonn 1he paurrn

Blll1GUr. IIJstoncn.IJ) a rough uurdum h c

If

Uax I' 1 r A r '' plcar with fo!Jcd \!dgt~s facing i 11 nppo:-it(• ..itrecrion~. u
UJilni\ned lc.athcn\1th ;.~ lhong ~ lo urr.: \\ '"' b ' :ot a11d lmh pt.;:as.mh (fmm Lache br~ J h[\() lbd brogue i~< n hea\'y oxft.llll.i lihOt' "' nh a IJrgc pPd r.ucd dcstgn on toe and border '5L".atm mu 11~ \\IN 1 il (\i pag~ 194)

of lllO\ O:lllCill

BROI L"'

Bo:..: TO[: Tht.> !'Uppnrt u:.ed in,.idc the shoe to hold the !ihtt~)C of the 10(' \I'UaJiy rigid. but mar be ::oft Or

llcxtblc BRACJ BU rT,)N /\ :.pt:cbllr shapt'd burron domed nn the sidl! :md o~u.:u:lw~I ro 1T1c wat:.tb:md. pcrrnin i ng suffkicm sp;Kl' for dw "ll'>p~ndcr 's lo0p h1 m ove fr<'d)' Cmm :ml~ w .~idt: (S« pJge l:LJ )

p,rjfi,J, tum fur SU~PLNI"\Eil'O. (Sr.· pagl? .22.!.)

1\JL\Gt:

Bltr\DFORD ~PINN ING: Oneo(thrl'l.'

prllh.:tplc

or ~pinn ing WORSTED l A.RNS Origll1 :1! illg in Ymkshirc. liogbnd. rhis proccs~ or spinning wool

Tlll'Lhuds

ill!\)

wor.~t1:d rnrn t.tk~:- rhc w~,ol and Llwroughlr o1l ir

b CI'OlbcJ. '' hjdt produ('cc; a ,mullth,lustrous prnuscd for\\or:acJ !'littings. Thi!>Jiiicr' from du~ l"r\~lCIJ ~} S{('ltl, \\ hich lS. Jl") spun. before

It

\Vovcn, knitted. or pl:1itcd nmtcri:tJu,c:J for trimming or binding Oiren u:.c:-J for roruulwc:ar lfOU!iCfS SU pagt.'s 2.:,!8. 2.)1. HIM 1I}

BHr..i\l~ "llw amt.lUnt offt..1lding. rrc:.bing.or M,Juva- oi the troust•r horrom "ben it mcer~ :wd .Sit!> 011 the top of rh~ :.hut' (s~( page' 4-8. (, r.) HHt.t:t'll· An old~l~u.hmncd [ngli:.h \h>rd for

bm r..Jck~ Ilene~... brccdw!'~ i-. whar Ct'\'C rs dwm Tlw word Cir.st :H\I"'~,·:m•d in rngl:md tn rh(•$iXll'l'1llb C~TilUf} an~.! nrigi tl:lll~ rete ucd to krwc l.:ngt h twusc 1" "nh t~tiiC\ buc.kle1\ for dcc<'mtion l .1tt·r. brccclws were! •

lt:ngthcncd :llld cnnn.· h~ mean p:~nts.

Colloqui:tlt!'m fur br...·eclu•,,nl!>~' :1 1cnn for t rou:;e r.s i rn plying trim linc.:-

HRI 1 Ks

bridiC' j.. aau:tU} comn..'lllwg gt•:t.r hkc the bndle in a hor.;c·~ mourh it:. mcnnin~ ... here i ru-.1 jnd:et's princjpk "t•ur.:-c a f suppon \t ...o. a n•rm appJietl fur p.1dding :t piCCl' of lll!liL!rJ
~

lnpd

tt>

hold or .:'0111 rol rhc ;:he't.

1\ 1\rimh rerm for wnbrcll

combinntJOll of d cp lud f enrrh-made rod. et £1If \\ rth l\ertnnt.: ,f ~reel gr. Coined hr Dqmu\ ...Apparel \ru" m 1941 t<. "'" l rail r.:.olor blcndtng \\ ttll all cmnpll· ll "" nJ pr m trd :ts a n<'\\ w~t) to sell brown. BROWN TO!':£ A

H1WM.M11. l 11 ORC.l UR1A ,.

Bcnu Jirumm,l

(178 J8:.40) An ear:l} uinct.ecnth ttntUf) I ng{t I d.llld\• \dtosc du::mtcs on male dn: ~ !\UIJ cndutt• •' th~

mdc of lhe \\ell -rlr.e<: ed gcntlun:m Pn rt " J he lh:1.111." 3 gt·mJcm:lll''i nppCi3CU1Cl' dt p~ll !ed OU l'":-L'IHI:ll

1

dtc riclmes of the m.1to:nal ,,nfu b:tl± r"cn rl 111gl the dnthcs were often b.tdl) mnde til fittm • and not :th\.1}, de:tn. \Y1th Brummd male snh bt.·.. am m:uttr of tmpt."ccnblc Gt and cut exqu• n dt t tl nd tllltll!lrubre cl~nlme ~ [\en fu, prefi n: n e t 'r thl

color blue would erulure tn the cxt<'nt tft:u tlu: n.n t.11it bccamC' the urufomt oi mtlhon.. through mu h l t Lhe 1" entieth a::ntun• BRl "lJIN(; \lso call~d nnpptng .1 hnisluug procC' \\ ht·rc cin:ular blu~h~ pull up the tib~ r cnJ to I rnt a iun} urf:Ke dk!r:eb) r.usinp. aN !\I' un l nnt J \\ owH fabrics. 1\Lit:J\.,1..:1 ~

'l'ft napped lt:.athcr ofut•cr or ell tur fine gloh: J; or m ~1'0~1:. qu!llm . hoes ( « J tgr .!Ol J BL IHI'f~l

\ '\\ dl

'-nl.)\\ n lttU hrttgue I'H tm'l shot' with a lugh roc cap

mI

Ul

BU(ili'l 11H:: :smp of au unlin~.:d

Jl.ld t•r t.~h:mltng :h·ms~ the back n('ck rh:n ghc!' !1 fim.,h to thnl iJ n ol thC' ·"l:tl. (In cu<:tom tmlonng whr-n the luungaun :o. four rn fiH· mchc bdO\\ the .mnhull" n a rdrrreJ t ., .. ·half hnoo )

Humn RR1 Thoma, Burbern ~ c:' unm cirapcr m lngLwd hie upon a me'rhod of chl"nn-. II treanr g ('Ot ron fnbnc ,o that It rrpcUcd Wd!CJ"\\ htlc n-m:un I • porou In t'h 4 ht• ad\crUst.-d ..PRt"lLll g 10 t th I ka\ IC"l .R.lin.s and ~1m Hurbcrn umlonn dcparnncnt dc ... tgt\N u r;un rc"tsl nt c,,n,wn ~.... ~~ me

.:o.Jt th:tt "~ tssued to mun: th<111 ~ hnlf nul lion rm~J 111 the ~"'tJI"SC ol \\ \\ I Sa n~.E:-<( H GOA I

higbland. l "Cd eirhcr brir:sclfor rn wool ior ro:u ... stur5, .1ncl , ..,ea,crs

1\L Rut~ Dl

CAN'\ A Ouginnll} n cltnh mack· from hemp ):lrtl~ und u:rmcd from the ward mnrwlm A genet.! cln. lf)c:mon of srmug. lit'~l\'}: c:o,uscl} , ..'0\ en t:'lbrics u.su.tll) rnat.!c ~OltOil The lcrms Cltll\.1~ and duck arc u"ed imt:rdt:tnt!cnhl}: but ...Cinv:.v,'' g~o•nernll} rd.nes to hc.a' ier con-.tructions.

tre1lcll

burguud}

det:p n.:h red ~hade: SUg&C'itiVe l'f ( « 'ch ct: .,Jtpper, page I ''2 )

\HJJ.C

ftt "IlL ll"L '\nmhcr renn for n:p.unn~ or alrcrrng uu ,ackeb ~bds orourcn\-e;:u: UL H£L \f :\N

alu:rnu~uts

\ ~L•urne\ nun

tailor v. ho undcrtttkt·s

nnd rr.p::urs:

Bl .. u r \( RI.f \ belted ~mglc bn::ml."d slun t:u:ket \\1th four PH\. H l'1.lt.$.ET' and tlJp m tan co non Of.Ul.L'" r l,.o.>\IJ.AR[tl !'.'T;. (Sct page I (.1~)

A aow TIE cut wnh thbrlc shape.-,] or fl.ued cmb ned "nh a sm:lll knot aud a ·wide bow '' ll h hro.td cuds l.il\\!11 It 11:unc m 1C)04 due ru the suCCL'"~ , t the opera \'tad.mw Ruttrtjly Unnl that tame. 1 ics f;u;hmn..:d m ~ bo\\ \\en' ~1mpl) called l;RA,ATS (.v~ pagt: 2.4 s 24- ) L\t rrrFFL.1

Ht T rrRNt T Dc..-s-~ripm e of a bm\\11 color thar \\il" n:: ue
f"J&<'

s

\\Ofll

p.Jgl' 134 fred

Asr.;urc,

irCi~ NH::K

The lfsrc::ad allcn':!nce given t(s :t burton \~ ht•rt ~ \\ ll to .1 g:tnncnt rude; 1Jl the US(' of l he button ;u vtdl .1 m promonng ft.·wer \\ rmkles '~hen

th

~rmr111 1 hutt011ed

1 h hetght dastance.•md ~p:li:ing J Cb.lt fmnt button rebrtu~ to tts from l'dgc and ".tL t (su p.tgc J 84) Bl r n

iAN{ l

!..;

or

llt rr lt,; Til ROt uJI DCSJgn;mng the dasur~ or on utt.r.:-1 .JT •r J.Kkct an'' ludt burtons :~rc f~tt:IIL"tl tn buttonhole' ~·1u thruugh the f~ir .tnd nm CO\cre!d

nh o1 tl from '1\l r

b n .1

n \n mt"rlappmg bmung stuc.h m:~dc hm nr b) h.1nd th•lt re.;cmblcs a cabll' lL~cd m Tl T

\ ttcr :tnd Ui:k (.-rean ~)()twds r k prcc.cs ·d fur U.'l Ill r 101~ear .tnd uthcr

<. ;\lJ·

or

CAl' A \'isorrd I:,Lmc h(:adpi('..:c \\ nh :1 rounded crO\\ n. cut in ~·tdwr on C'tghr ·ptcc.." wp or .1 Pill" P"-'CC-lOp St'. lc. In 1~71. tht· llritish P.1rlinmcnt p.tSSl'll :1 law tl'<.ftllrlllg all htgli~h male~ lWt!r 1he ag • ohix (b\11 t.::'\dttdin~ ttt>bili~)) lt' w.:or :1 \\'()tolcn ""Pun S11 nd.tys Til(' law, iutc.nd~d h• stimulate rltr wool trade, wns rcpc.llcd in 1)4Jj', but dw ~.lp with bonnwtal rrour hritll \":lf}'tng length~ has ~\'t.'r sin.:c bc·cn rhc IH"'.t
or

C,\Pl An Ollh'r gMmcnr .H .-ide.~ for dlC a.rms

\\id1\.lUl

.,.fcc\Cs but •wtth bllts

k111d of knitting -md1 Al o a knitted '' c:u.cr" ir hl•llf a collnr or lapels. madl! \\ nh or '' tthout ~Ice''"'· Named for the ~c,·cnth carl of Cardig:m who c..lislikcJ disturbing his <"Oificur bur" ho '-'

did knd the Charge of 1he Light Brigade 111 the Crm11.:an \Var (~a page Hi~)

1-J 0

Rl.: T'f :SHOll GLARD fhc loo. "'-= o;u:.tnd of 1:\\ IS tee! thn·ad s~Jl ou thcunde~rd~ ofdll' pck~,·~ k:fl lapel bummbol· m t
Bl

wJth

C.I\RIHGA.N· A

m the Southern states of

COU \R '-17

ct~mhulauou

f...l"l

ruy

I rlll rgffi d

"UJUR I\ It lU.R Su u.a.ltR't'"\tnRf r.uli...AR ( c\M RIO ,f

RU <; t

"X:fOIUl LR•\1"

\ U l \ lrght \\: llou1 h t:rn based un dh coh r of the hump~.:d

c;uncl

\ 1 L H :\In hl1tt I r• m ..1 &>nmd

r-.m!?Jng m enlor fi m natur.d t:m t bm·• n \ \c;n \\Mm and l1 \ rght ' tn I It Jch JU dun c..t hmcrc: fhc hr cart 1 I ur m fmm tlt under o lt pf a rr n (rn hum~ J) amd taunJ m th ( hm "'(;

CARDING. J\ prore~ ..

for pn~parin,g W•llll pm l~1r spinuing Till' fibers arc .turom:lticJIIy pl:tcL'd 10 propt.'r' :alisnm,•nt :urd tlw impurities rc•no\'t:~ The ~ardcd ) ams aro.: Lh~n pm into~~ m:m.lgl!ablc form known jJs "s fi\ Cr~ rh;H :1pproximah!.' dtr .stzc of:-r mau'-: thumb. I..~AR.NAli'r ~T illl.T

1 he binhpl:tn· ot' the l'c.u:ock Rcvuluti1111 111 ~\\ ingmg I ominn \ two blq.:k street

parallel ro Rt'gl!nt ~m·cJ. London.\\ h~r.:- mnn} shop.s in the ll)h~)s imroduc«Jd ·mt--.d~ clotlut1g a.nd later:: ~uch st}lcs as Onrcd lacb, brighd} pancrncd s.hms :mJ adapt:ttaons of \mcnr.tn "'estern dorl11.·

CA

II J'OCI(fl'

t'C'Th:I\ETJ'Ollo:II

lmt< wool frmn the underco:u of the 1\ ng haired K.tshnur go.n, '' hkh is \\Oven or l:nincd smo "-Dlt f.1bnts rh~u .trc luxurious to thL: hHh:h l o"hmc rc llf"it ''on ncd:um \\hen d 11.' pt'Oplt: uf K.1shmrr "cwt.· H uno cxqtuor;tte ~h.l\d.s. 111 tl1c nin~.:rccndr cenrun the rnglr~h. ~c-ottlsh, and J rendt S(• t\l\'Ctcd tlu~!'tc h.l\\L thnr the' lmll.uNI rh~m. c-.pcci:J.llr m I'.H~Il·). swtl trtd -, h~o· hulk l'f dt~.· wnol1s ;1 pllmcrt Is lin~·r .md. mmc cxp~nsh~ rh:u1 \H:!ulcn cno;hmc: rc ns tltt.' cmnbcd ).tnt! c.anntH h~ :o.pun \\ uh Ul•fccmc or unp<•rfeC'l fibct \\ orsrcd c;ashmL•rc) .Int )1dd;; c .trc.tndy lrghr tn.nr:nJ.l tll.u ts mor~ rc.. mmn 10 I'U 11sr~ (tho.! Lr~o..-.raot• ofltttlt nuhs ofiu7.z on .;url.t•c (lf dw f.thrtc) used t•xJust\Ch lor .mung.-. nml sporr Ja~.lc.•tmg! \Voolcn ca-;luncn: 1., ~ltghtl} lnfmr lc Q•cun nnd b.tll c:asil'r th.ur woNted C"".t<.IUlwrc \\oolt'n c t hmer~.: r u t.'d pnm:ml} for 1:td.eun~ .uhi \\C:•ltt .-.. CA511 MJ IH.

Co\ t "

\ W'•nl.1tccl l<'w \arnpcd ~hcte

tift felt h:tt \\ idt a ~~1ll'f'1} Jllll\ ht.d CTO\\ n tml.1 flnpp) bnm tumt>d up .;til lmunJ CAV'\l I fit

~81

~lndcll·d aftt:'r :'1 slnnmtbl}' plumed afliur fn.lrn the Sl~h'\.101 It ~cJltllf} \\ l l f l l b} tlu:: \\CUJ"iJ em .all") \\i1tLft {i und unrncdhltc fa\Or\\lth ccn:tm rake' 111 the Bnuo;h J'Ovnh) lmu.1Il} "POrtl'd wtth plume~ on tin· left s1dc and ttlnt~cl up hrim on the 11glu Ill order tu haH• more in•cdom \\ 1dding n S\ltt.lrd. mnH• cour.1gc.:ou~ bbdc

upped the tlurd ~1dt.> and tht~ soft cuckt:d hIt ~~~. bct'n knLl\\ n .1~ ~t CJ\ .tlt~r C\ cr s.~nce (.Stt' man tll', p:tgL' 1)8 )

111

polka dpt

A ~mrd) \H~l\t' fab11C made \\llh a dmgon.tl corcl Sll!l'P :;~r {HI a (,3 dcgtd: l\\ 11l \H':W~ iur trou ..er.' 111d hrrcchL'<:, hcth::f' 1 he .lS'>t)\Iat ron "nh 1\mish C'.l\.rlq• o(ilccrs. Alrhuugh ca\1111) twillts dw n,·,guuln:lmt: rh,· l'.:-- go\erumctll n:tmt.>d Jt "claslltl''~" ht•cuu't: t1fi1s ~u·c1rh qunlity :uru ~iurnlHitty

\ S I ..; (,,

llfl

\J\r\

I~H ri.imc clut h~~

•

C1 1 1 ~ :~TRJl'l. \ ~~ IipL•

of h.}~~dik"· cfCr:ot suntlllr tn dJ\•m:u k r11.1J~ with ..1 railof"s chall. usunll) fuuud m l1:umt•l dm!J, "ath .1 light orwhitl' l',,Jor spaced 'l npt' "l!t 1111g ($er the -!'ui1 I nbncs.. g:atcfuld p.1gtJ 79)

A hght'\\ eaght. IUIC•.!iplln. ria Ill '\h'n\ c \\ on;r('() \\ ool t:tbrtc nr·igm,mng 10 l n~lnud arouud 1831,;1 Its tl.1f11t' ClllllCS from a llindi word nw.111ing '"~oft w the lbuch - h W':l" ilr-.t u~~d as a ncckwcnr prim cloth for .-mnll overall p:mL-rns of a sport ur p:tislr} na111r~ :md rh\!.11 Jd:1prcd by r he 113tural "'h(llilJcr !iCt in the Ill 50s for OLid Vt.''l!t, tromcrs .•m\1 j..u:ker:-. (&r page 1)'1) l'IIALLI

.... IIA M liRA) A fine. pl:liu Wll\ cu EtbriL· wi1 b a snft fini~h mil izing u ''hit!? cow'n WJ\ n I' and cnlurcd I I Ll.l NG .m..l fmtatJ rrimMil}' in shirt i11gs 0rlgtJ1;ttcd

r,:tmhr,li. rrancc. (St'l•""bW and "Spri11g" hShir:r Dtbncs" g.udold.) 111

i11

1hc

:n \MI'lfS· i\ pale ydl~m o;uedC' cnlm ti·lHll du.· t.lltnt•d !ikin0f 1hc [mopean gl'l;H of dw :.:unc llttmc:

Cll \NNI l

1\

.;Jamed groO\c cut around dw uudcr

\ f'H"i'lh

tr •dnumaJ \\c;t). u; aft h bon p ncn h.J m~.; o;s tv. til amc-rscct.ed b bn~ht t• r 1 dt. 1r. n n ) Jm A grnm1 tmrgh nap~d t \ d the d 1 t charancr t qutntQ cnnall) [ nf:h h (:S« p~( ~ J

Cu 1 \

CtWAI rt) TWlll

IJ R I

uun(utfi bnc (Jln» un e 1 , '(t-ol) Jll,Idc from dw , ..~m ( t h " I dtr.; hc-t>p fotmd in th ( ht mt lull f eland It CH £\ I )1

n up ud dll\, n v.tp ftt>c1 forml'd b; rt"n·nmg t h~: dtrr.;ctl 11 of tb '" 1ll t r gular mtt n.1ls Res~mblmg:t hrr.nugl lllt' 1h1 b u U\111 p:mt>rn l!i found m topcnnt .md ~mug.~ (Sa p::~gr - _ rutd 73) liON

wr "' 1

A durnblt• dose \\O\cn ton 11 tabm ongtnall} marie~ m M:llldtesr~r lngl.md eliiJWrt~'ll tc lnt.t Ill rhe,11 exported >lg;Jtn to Llulla'l (r m \\ iu r; tt \\ Cill!NO

b) the U "- \nn~ 'tanc ned u tht. l,l11hppmc~ bt·forc \\ \\ I Jnc ruunt·- hm • \\ ... .1ppar.:ntl~ dcrhcd from rht: r~,l th.1l rhc fal n " pu.rchatit:d in dun:. Du.•d 111 J:ktll n \\ 1hc nl inbnc nnd drc d1:u \\.ouJd o.:nlt rand rhc u , 1f nuhtJn "enr \lso the naant of 01 m~n \\:t h:1W f p:tm made ofduno duth. UCluglu for

U!iC

Cl IROML TANNJ N{ •. 1

ht: l.llllltng oflt>.:uhcr h\ a n, 11 of rhrommm ~ah ale~ C::li:pci sl\l :m.:ll ' d~ ira lc: ml'dmd than 'cgetablc l!!ntuu~ C Ill R I~ HOOT Srr. p:tl).L 204 ~1...1\SS!C:

AnY \\:~':lrnblc oi cndurmg \Jive .utJ amrn.

'''nsillt:rt·d a "cb:\;-.il· ~

t..:u

\I{ I i\1~1 D WOR$1TO

t:1bn· of rwi~;rl·d prn~. \\ith rhc nnp rcmtl\c.'t.l .md rlllmughl s-court!d o tlu:- wca\:C ' dl...drh- \1 th1c l ..cd f ...,r UJt 1 CLTI'I'[D I J~URE..'·

Cll.:\HM 1 usr

figure~ ha\c bL·cn dtppcd

-

A "C't\..: LCchlllc:llh· h1m\ n :1~ n-gmtr. n .. ... rm.mt.· gl\ en it during it~ !1r~r era of popu~.~~ II): lro.m about 171 s to 1-.l:;. Jurmg rhc rcgctK) nl llull("lpc , . Dukr·oi OrlL':m,. Mndc from :t dingnnnlnb \H!:lH'. tll!':-;ol1 duiJ tit.• silk drapt.:S \'Cf}' wdl Chat'\ l!t C'l Joik dtr t1111~d PMi" o;htrtm:Ikcr.mad~ :;ldllfulul'C: nfth1 t:1brrc :1 '"dl .15 hldd fi!!llf'cd. spaL"ed-prim n..:..:ktic:s. "hti."h the lllllllt' "l:har\'l'l~ C.lhlt' LO .. t~·tWI'P. (Srt' p;tgt.• 1-i-.) l;lll·l

.\do cf}

\\0\ L ll

Small cmhroadt: rod fil!urc:"' n dh. t:u:e uf a fubric from \\ bich the Ilu;m- lx-'t" en the:

A lighrwclgln, rich·luoking. ,oft 'a lin "irh :t subdued lu~tcr and ;t dull O;ll"kin~ It i~ n registered nnml· of Bi:mchini Fcr:ricr, .md Comp:tll}

.

t

!l"-ll.1lh• ch:~racn~rih-d b~ unden;uttcd d('S'Ign and •muph: dcmtlfng It u,t,r·d to be ~:ud th.tt lf an Ht m uf .tpp.ud rcnuinrcl ia.:.hionabh• lor st."Vl n \ c:at"' u could bt:

cdgl· of" IH'JL' m cutll."cal thl! 5,1k·'s ~titchil1g

CIIA H,\'1:1

1n

'>r:.-\ noo·1. J\ plain toc,i. ... id<"·el.l~t i.:-atcd .t11kll~

bocn, simrlar ro rho..; JODIIPUTIIIOOT hm s1r.1ph:s~ Popula1 in thL' T'J';u" and 196~1:. when H'r} n.ll'rc,\\ tn111SCI"S \\ CJ'L' in\ Oglli'. C nr Nllt £ A \ant with a .:m pik pl'otrudm£ all muud .It right anglc.!i 'rrom the rrcnch word for-l·:tu'J]>tlbr,.

CJJ 15'1T.R IIIl D.,\ plain back. :-lightl} slmped O\crcu:ll m enhasrngk hrea~tl·d Jl} from or dnuble brc~ tt;d l>t)1c.· In d:11 k grn} bl11e or bbck it may !l:l\ c .t mat" hmg H:l"c' orsdi coll:1r · nh! ~·o.1t Is n.uncd lorn Hlllt.'t(·c•nh ce.uruq i.:Jrl nf< hcMc·rtlel..l (..'ia patl! l~t'l)

1\n old and c'o:pe.tN\

pmccss rur WL•::n mg finl' p.tttr.tllt" I rru.tdd nh ~hining no" illmos£ e du<-J\d produ ·ed m SwJt7..crland

.... r OC'K. A l:mucd ur cmhro1dcn~ H me I J 1nn ~n the ('utsidc.lildL' uf the !;ock (Set p.1~c r-.l J ti(• prime.! m the chrucn roh.: ~ •r emblem of;1 club 1.3r group 1'h1.. l•~t dub tiL" •~ cr t,ff 1h\.'11' ttl\\ 1ng h:~r ... :md tied them .1rot111d du:u nt"rl in 1880

Cu n TJ E.

\

flit: \mrri.'an IUUll gr\: tic \Vluh:: \\hen ~ nt \ntl

1 UB B(.)\\ f,/>TWlNG flO\\

to 3 b:tn\ mg-!thnpc TA 1LCOA T:

btl\\

hla.:k or mtdm!!ht blm:

'll

\\Hh c:hnm:r J .. Let

(: r.· 1c:- C<>rbu~tcr: rop of p:t,gc lllJ Phtlrpp

~, 1rct

page 1bJ.) CO"- r \\:lrtlllh

\n outcrgann~m \\Hlt lt'C'\e~ '"''m 1)1C.

fabnc. and l~n~J \4f\

\\tth

f :n'

f~h

Jtl

The dl l~O"l" a_-.; me-asured trom rhl" ·ofl:tr ~L':tlll undcrrhc Cctllfi of the lu-.k l,f rn£ n -.1 f

COAT lE NGTI L

do''

o~ 1.:rdcr s '""011 u: 11 to thf' llt~n1 of d11~ j,tck~t \ center bWiiliiL (~« p:1gt:> 40)

J.'opulanzcd ;~frcr \\r\\ I thts h n tJn..i.uJ slun "nh lmNI. fused. or s:t.'lrcht~ roi!Jr .ur;:rdtt.-d to .1 neck banJ 1..\.lllAR :H 1A.CIIFD HJRr

The '~rtknl dimcn. ie>rt of.l collar

l..OU.-\R rAND

b.md m frum O.ltl:.\R ~ r

ns

'(r 'iLLlTITl> .._OLLAR..

\..(.'M flf"'l!. nn~ 1..'\ST \ LA Tor f.·mn ofn ,ftoc \\it h ~t.utJJrd waddt and length mc:l5urcm~m~ but wtrlr narf'O'.H~r timug he(·l Fhr c~.11nplc. a I) \\:ldth sltoc \\-llll C wt.h h hcd \n .sdunn~d form of .:-Jm11tlg. rhe pro~~·~.; ofarr.1ugmg fibc~ 111 p.rrnllcl altgnmcllt ;m~l n"lllll\ ing .1010 fi~ \honer thnn dw desired lcngrh 1 he rt·~ult is ... 'imooth )3m i~r.spuuungand \\C.a,ing CtlM OJNt.

LOOK In counterpoint ro \ nwn•n' an Lr \Gt.: E f.t h10ns thiS I•ro~ \mcnc:.1n mtt..·qtr~r-anon of·' P"cudu 1t.1han look f~:uured a han "hapcl} '"'d'-" \t rtr\.'d "llll 1:u:kcr and l:tpcrcd cufficss rmuscrs l.t.l':'IT:I

l:.NTAl

Ct1N\t:RTrnu Cl m c:ufflmk

Luffi rhar can buuon or rake'

l:OJ'IHSfl~'-·fN DLl r

\ ~ot"r medium .-.baJc ol grJp~tl.

Ct.rrro~ -.WI! L

A 1!1bric- "ith a ,lt,agonall) src..ocp waled 'urfaccc.m<.l'lj b) rhc inrcrlaringnirlu~w Rr•and \HI r thrcud<: TWILL IS une.Ot th._• three basic \\'C:lVC'.'i r r M: \ ~..:.1le fM l'valu:mng rite qu.1l1t} uf

\ 'ou Nr '

won I \nth gmJc..c; r.angmg irom 8o" or h•ght·r for mt•rinn \\llol to lo\\ cr 1~1r l\\L'cd~. ck "I ht• ducker rh~ )'nrn. rhc lowl'l' dw gr.tdc mnnbt:l': the lugltcr the grade uurnhcr. r!w fin~r the ynm

Cuu:-n ElL,\ pi\."CC or su(l~niilg lll:ttcrul or l~iltcr ill~c!riC.I,JI"O\IIld thl" DaCk part or thL• :-hoc 1~1 uppon 1he oilter lto.:l dw r Ct\tJ){:,f : \.)nc orrhc hon~ollt;ll row~ llriii
i1

kuh ll'd ~~~nic or .;wear..:r. Cm1r;~e~ 'i 'lri' s1 mtl:tr m I II LINt: Inn

WO\Cll

flnril•

l:l>VIiRT ~.,<1.0 l li! 1\

rnidweigiH OVt!r\CMting ~ollo;;tructt:d froJrn two y.aru" nf difl~·re111 colt'lr!\ 111 W.\RI' and ·inglc color in PJI.~LJNG. gi,•ing at\\ illcJ. mot tlt·d ;rppc.tr;tncc. Derin.:d frl'lm rhc rrcnch romtt·rr and tt!t~Oct:ucd "tth rllt' ridtng ~I) at worn br h~"'rscmcn guing imo th~.· thi~kcts or "coun:n .. where thl' pur~ut!'J gaml' take:. refuge. Coven clorh" dJs)oic h:hlc is <1 tJ.n with a dml~ ~,Jj,,c cast Usl'd toda) in it.\ nnginallo hl 18 ounce "'-'ighr torTOT'COATS :ts \\cll.ns lighrer W('lglu vc.r.~10ns f\•rtk~·.;c; or spor1 tmu
blu~.:

\

CORm:n <-TtUI'I \ t)J.lC of shirting fJbru: 111 which r.uc:~:d thr~ads arc bunched Ill \!V(.'f11) 'ip.h7ed im..:n·Jls on the r.,bric ~ surfuce. gi·.mg a 1\.:.xwr~J dimt•fT'IIOII A bnd oi lc.nhc.r inr focm' ca1 m.Kk· fn.i m "phr horsd11Jc or from the mnel"hidr. o(th~ horsl!'s rump N11mcd for Cordob:~. Sp.tin ''here i r wao; II n~t made l.mucd wuh 'cgctnblc mau:·nals, &t LS durnble but H np ,rau

I11d11Call

Hwch

RHI ;;1' :.... UI: N r A spcct:uor ~hoe (.Sa p.t,gr 207)

( ., \r\< KCOLL\R

\

!it)1eofcoiiJ.rfc.nurmg.Jhtglt

b md "uh a stcft" dosure. wom b) Ru".luau l o ack rrt ups

u A Ntll spon shm f.tbr11.: an'' hi... h

t Ffl LIt;;{, thre:td .m: nappa:l m crc.u • 3 lh eft.ect lah· \ t db In oltd cult\~"\ strlpd. 1r rn-1

\\ pb d (Sa \\tnt r-an the Slurt fabn1.s" g.ltt•f\tl,i) • IT"'l"'

r, \B,\k.DINE .A. duculc salk} !\mumh umng

be tt m fabric \\ tth .1 prepondcr.mu• o( \\ \I 1 thf J In :t n n t\\ dl cft't:n h • mg pmnounc~.: d dugiu :d 1m • r :\i,tl s I'

dctlldtu/ respect. l ie CLW, lwwct'cr. do /t1

l·omJJh111d it. - /3ro{1]~s

Brothers

\11

uld CliptC,.SlOII

illl" .J I"Clllll\ll•d COrlll..'f

slun cuff

flufi} whltl! fiber.> irorn thL' :;cedpods of th cutt 111 plitnt I ii'!it I nO\\ n C1fm luclh around 300 • I l onon ~ "i ~ ltl.'iaderc:rl u·r~ mn- aucl prcciou~. lit!! I ngcr n fiber: thl" bs.:nct the coaun qualm

th IJCk

lllllJl dJI}' JIJ
nn COA 1: A knrl' k·ngrh. s.ltowcr pt·oof fJ fronh d wpcoat in \'FNITIJ\N I'Wl Ll. gcncrnlJ}' of :1 p:1lc ~tone color aud often with mmng '"h.ct coll.tr nnd tlctali~cl \\llh three <.1r four ruv.·o; of.sttrchc.:: thr~c c&ghrhs of an mch ap.•rr .n Jts slccn! cufi and btlttom hem rl he: Slltdungs :tl"!! laold\)\Cr'i frurn flu: LIJIIC \\hCn l"t!'infor\:erncm \\ J!'t needed tr;, prote•cr rhC' Co!ll cdgt.:" from wear 111 rhc rhidl•t { 0\\' IJ[I L

\lft

L ll"'h 'N fL-\:N

~1-11 L' i\t ~~

l ~O\

llt'Lk

COTTo~

r

---------------~~

{ lROl

l

t'~

C/LJ/ht:s dl1Jl't IH
l 01 UO\ N

no., \ lurd W(":tnng cur Fll.ll NG ptlc f.1brtc mJtlc: of rottcm '" iclt runkcn lme-o n111ning length\\ 1sc. "><> ailed bcr;.tu e It \lo.tS ungmall) made and ~xdushd) " rn b) the hum"men oFd ~rtatn Hourbnn kmg of I r;mcC' dm J ..:nm.~ptaon of the Frt!nch n:tme of the kmg ~ dotlt ~orJ Jt, n" (~a p;tgc 1Pi )

\ Ru r r

1

rcrmfor:tm•d3t<•dert\·cd iwm thr l•ench cnmztr In the SCH~nrc:emh ccullll"} <.;m.lfian mut\7Cil.u RAVt\T .\

~oldie!'\ cmplorcd b) the fr1·nch gmcnunc-nt wore lin~n sr:an,.• around their nc,·k!\ I rcnclm umcn tlmk

ur

thas kind of m·c~vl':tr. \\luch mt•nl:acrnduptt•d 11ll' fa.sluon !-prt'~d to I ngbnl1" b('r~; tlj{' ,snrf \\.ts t·lllcd n cr.tvmr It w;p; the {lflgm (If thl' modern nc•tktlr:

frf'nch' rb (rc~r. llh.'.rn1ng ..lll fuu nnd curl dl·ri,_,c,l from th~; Lwu rrisp111 \\nul rq><' nnklf m.mc ~urfncc rl r'~o·ct '" obtJmccl w uh ,,}ugh tw1st >·u·u knnwn .1s l."n~ pc t\\ •"t pm Jlld Jlrcrnilld nght l1and .md left hand rw1&red y tnt" m tht• l-' 1u

t IU rr Fmm tlw

1r '·'as popul.mud for mcu&wcnt m the 1')80s b' • luls.m ~:lc .. Jgncr <...,orgu.> Arm.uu \\ h~tlJt"r trt a t\\ all or plau1 \\ \.'il\ c aep · d11th!i arc dr) hght. and dmpey I' en though th pm .trc \\oorstcd tt not of d1~ be l 1..1ualit} \\'t,ol ~rcpt• can bt• cuarsc to the ruud1

fine lighrnl'sghr slk madt 'dth .a crC'pt.: w~a' ~ u~u.tll) ~onstnactc!d \\ n h o1 ro" dl (. JU 1'1 l>l ( IIINL \\AilP

,lJ1d CI'Cp<

\

\C')

(\liJlH

salk I

IL11Nl.

l RJ \\'N I \ ~

.!·-1 DRL ... ~(; ffH ;\1 ~"

Pullm ur S\h!atcr wrth :t rouud nb kn11 nt>rl, '.uncd for lmn shins w:or n h) mcmhc,-.; of c~,llcgc rt•\' ing team:. r" "~n·ws- (Srt11......aq t~r:mr. page 169)

CIUMI' Tlh' n.nur.Jl wmmc!ts fo11ud 111 wool iihc1s L1111 f, )flit it)' of w:n iII<''~ snd Ka tc10 n ··II pcdor "ool TlrL• IliOn· th~.· cnmp 1he fiHL'f the wuc·l l.RI M"ON· A Jl·cp tn 'hid purpli!ib 1vd m a' 1dd red

t:olor.

CRL'\...k!Nl~

.\n cx.~s~ d~e thar mhs otT on :m nrticlt:>

:tppard of\\ hich dll' 1Jl!llCrial j.; said lQ "crock"

CROS"~ ~Tni·l r .A ncedl~work

srirch M'lllt:tllliCS u cd forornnrncmatron.orn~a uhsmutc fur 1 Eli II'!, [hin m.n~riaJ:.. or tho:~e li.tbl~ ro frar on r he edge.

I he f.)fk or :l pa'irof Ll (lli'L'P•; th-: anglt' ftmnt:d h\' dll~ rnr11nt! .... of l'H.l ~~~s lll' branclll·'

CHl>TCJI

~

pk;,:c oilining pi:Kt•d at t ht.~ tfotl!>t'l'~· fnrk ro co,er the junction of ll~ li:'ur se:tm~

CRO'I'CJI 1.1 Nl NG. t\

CROTl;J-1 fill CE , \ pkcc of sdf~fitbric ~c" 11 LI'Oltst'r.s·

to the under~1Jcs :u the fork. whc.m the m.ttNi:tl i.' 1111

not widt.• enough

Gnu\\:--:: The rounded se,rion oi dw rop:mlc lt~ad the skc'e

C RO\\ t\\ ill

f Jt,. u rm pplJcd app:~rel,naJc h' cortfonu h then l

TO I M.-'1. Of

1nd" sdual ru mmcr' lor tlu as Ill !' nJ

fl"'ct 'I' bod

t l

1

u 1 [

Cl.., \ ttnn tl'il.-d pnuctp:~IJ n m: l.u- b \\ hach u.Jtcah:~ rht: numb r f 1 t: dl pt r 1tliU 111g m•Klum: I hu m.ulun h vu g JlCr mdt IS a J.:J cut ma.chtnt .md llw r ult a 1::J ·em doth CtrTII.N!)

1\\N .Thct~.:nn.ppltt.:dt

orl:mncd falmcand madunt: \\'ll\'cll

e\\Jll

J

uu ,

n h rhr 4 n dl n f. h u

llpr.,;tr lrutlnn i.IZ

h}land, r

rA\,A"''· In fimn;~l cLn \\tar a u~t JLJ\\ m trmn wtth t:ul:; C'.tt"!nJing tO the bre..U. nf rh kn , m b k (.t

l;R• 11 1rI.-"T A m:ucrial h:tnd nudt• or m:tdune kntt b} hook!'; hum rhc French word mca11ing "tu I!O(lk ·

(If

Cl R I -\l ~ \ hangsng np Pt l~n n • t 1 1 t \\ 1nband muill) f dt ~ \:I bn th llmng. m W' a.Llcan hm\h r tht tr u

FOOT TWILl: A

oJi

'atin wea\l• \\ ith a broken

efi';.·n.

111.1> llfv.n.r:s· [nglish ..;bng for·badlr m.tdc bunonlwle!> ~

CRl

broad low or rn~dium - high h~l·l w11h a st:r:uglu brc.1s1 :tnd a curved back line CUUAJ-: !I EEL: A

Cut r ::,: -, ht: rurn ... up of rrou~~..·r bot tOms. whtdl "c.r\, oircn turned ttp in w~-.·t ond muddr wc-:nhcr. Kmg J d" :m:l VI I (then Prince of\\ ale<;) s(:mcd dw f:tsluon fCir ptnmnm·nrl}' turning them up in the t8•,Hh. PTU:o. (Penn.lll(~nt 1i.u·n - lrp~) b thc.!:!.A\'lU 1-:o..•W tl:rl!l rt)f 1 n:mst·r t ll rn ... up~. CuM r.11 Rntrr-.: 1"1 •\ w:~i,rb.tnd of :-.oli\1 or paltt'rnt•o.l 'Ilk made wirh or wil hout up.,vard-f:win!! ph;:Hs 111 pl.tco: of n form.tl wai,tcoal \\ idt a single-hr~:to,;tcd Jinnl.'l' J:tckcr Originollr a snsh \\urn in lndi:~ (llinJ1 kamarbarrJ). brought tu the \Vr..-.t b} the Hriri:-h lbj In J~H thr cununct bund c.unc to the fore :1~ an aac soq ~lr thl' \\hue nws~ p•ker. \Vhilc rh\.'! me'' jn-:kcr's popuJnril) w:1s sh011 lived. ir did t'pen the doM for rlh· "hit~;• dinner J:h·kct :tnd helped mak(' Amcri~.."ttns ounrncrbunlf nms
---

and a cmc button siuglc hre:t

h:d

fr m ' rh n

iu.'ld

t

pc:~ked I.~pd:. Tha coat J' cut .m.a\ on 4 mn hn fmm thr \\:list rn irom tn dt n-:~r Jr m ,, be W d.

oxford &fllJ worsted wnl1 br.udoo or pl \\ orn '' irh a m.atchmg pale gr.a} '' lutt:

tn tdgt

b

If''

r

Jnd t,~t~,..

CL TA\\Al' l..OU.AR TI1c formal da) " r shrn "1dc~rc~d pomts th:u. coompanu d the f, rmal cur:t\\ 3) tnsernblt.• 'Iod::j) thl h.:nn ' a g ntiJt.: dc.o;cnpnon fl)r an) £lun collar" h , e pntna re l'Xlrcmcl} sprc3d or upcn ( tt page 26 nght

tJ

phuh,gmph) " !)'' I'OCKI T JAC ~ \ pr.tcth:.:JIJ~ 10\J1i!UI t) oth•• p~ pnckeJ .;1dc-stitd1 rack runnmg fl'om ~··.mt ro •c;1m li :1 jt>t ted po ·k~r lll rcmforrc tt.'l ends frurn bre.1J tng ..)uch :1 tailoring det

l... Ja rb;u~ suit ~XJrke' pag{' 8C))

11 B l.AI'rL .. A pmmed sn le of I.Jpcl5 u UAII) c.: n an doublt.•-brenstcd coat:.. suit j~d:er~ .ortnpcaJt somenmt5 styled m smgfc br<:;.lSI~ sun ·o;nc: (~ dlustnmon pages ~4 and ')) DA~~ \\ "h 1 BAND· The first !odf suppomng

bc:Jrlr "

trous\.'r ill\ emed m JQ)2 bJ \Icc tmp!o n I Ir. ~cntu.ill) n.mu:d n Daks ~the acrumm combmmg (bd 11nd ~~lncks.- in mcmorplflm f.1rhcr ( • p.:l!!C1i-) M

DAND'I J.)M l'opubd) thought ro mritn •dJ~b)

r

•cxlubmom m ··but m fru:t u onl) mean rerf~crionbm In the Lime.: of ncau Bmmmd sing ~ric of -uch C\:CfH} dtat n renun JJtnd cxco replanng n '\\Jth nl:'.ltnt:"!--.:: "Hnplu:Jt\ nnd ,ar I rnnc." .. orr~crncss

or

D.-\RT r\

-han -.c;un

usro to gt\c requrrcd !.h

pc t ... a

paniculaJ p.tn ofgarment: \ cur,).( h"h .. m t.ui p:u:lancc O\\ mg it:' rumc u lt' rough n""~tnblan ~ ll ft. h hcmg 'nde:- m rhe m,ddlc rh.m n1 C1th rend

,.tifT-bnmmcod ~ ft l"ecd T nh c-ar tl:1p..; Lh:u are LtTAU:I:.R: 1\

-~~ --

~

pula.nzcJ dunng Q_UCl•n \ 'icrm:.t' rt:•gn un comsh c:.s&u "here deer st
\

\

"tunh

rwtll \\.:~h:

fabric 111 cotton or n bfcrui 'f fiber \\lUl a :s.oltJ \\ARr and \\hitc Fll LING {kmm ''a first m.1d~ about two hundred '\Cars .agtl in "'-i unc" f r.mc~ and us n=unc ~ a corrupuon ofru· :-..; mc.s. • fhc \\ord JC.m~" 1s nnorhcr corruption of ·G(JOdr. hahan s:ulnrs fmm dte port ofGcntl:t b~tng tltl* t'1r:o;t w \\-C:tr the t} pe [)Fs 1M

bo\\ lcr \ h.trd -t1m h ic.lt h.a with ,, rounded cr~Jwn .tud a SLJI1: curled ~dgt! brim "Ihking tl!' namL· (rom the Derb' .1 hoc;e •.trc t:,t,tb"sh•d .u Epsom DcJ\\ns ml-&0, it "a~ custmn to wear .1 bt "l'-"r at tlus .md other races m England lu th.: L mti!
\

~

OJAG lNU \\EA\EA rccprv.lll\\t.':J\'C\\ith

table hncs th.u appear. Ill mall)' fabncs su..:h 15 w t,·n [\\ cd anJ \\aNted sutrings \Vh;:n ;~ ·c.tiagon.tl" 1 spokton l 111 the rrade at i.: undcrnood to mt!:ln n ~ rs:teJ dodnnth J \\l"JI defined nght h.md t\\ rll face uda :t thL" tnnd.:trJ Sl:"RG£. n

11

o \

that progrcso;co; JU<;t '\o far mJ then rc\-Cf""e'i .tnd then l'C\Cr5CS tlu: TC"o crr;h •n to makt i1tmond~ JOUI un c:tdt uthcr TI11s we.wc can m.tk.c man dtlTl!rcrn on:s ofthamond lake Jc~tgus. udtl.l'i the phc.tsam !'i c...1· • lor ultmgs and 1ackcungs l1L\MO

m1ll \\c:p.;e

dctJchnblc bosom rhat could be ~lipped t•\.cr the body of the ~;hlrt that been me an ~scnri 1l p 1rt f \\.:tltl'r\ umfunn rn the 1~30s D1 til

\

Dr \I Pt r The' rncal gromt: fonncd undc1' the iour m h nd or \\ rndstr ~ate Hi'' h~.:u ucclkmw•Jcdgc.tbh

(

pag· 167 .lll)

[ J N l R 1-U...K.E.T .st.( H

XI 0 )

unpnntmga p n m • n :apr 't ru !\ d 1:J I lm \"Hh bll'a hmg m 1 The h mrcal dischargt:thc d c Lim fll

HARGf PRIN fiSt.

fhi."

prot:
ere an!!th p u m [

m \\nh p!!ddi aradun~.;nt'> thu It pc I m c.-t\ Jll-mcr d~rgm dot~ ~md r np 111 rm~d w \CD r ~If «1lor ct:io:: P.i

I )O[Sh.f<". I hi.' ~l! lD!: ,jJt· ~ f the .. kan ol .1 dl'tc.lnrnb. or ~hccp. used for glo\C~ t'r ~>th ...·r lcarhcr goods 1\lso .1 ct . _,scl} ,\:~wen labn. .· \\ ith 01 .laghtl) n:1pp~d surfurc. used for -l:t~b or .;porv:mear:

I 01 tAN "1 FrV£· the annholc

\

full--t:ut slcC\C th.u

IS

\'cl') '''dt• at

Dt>SI G.\1 ·1 \\'1 f:p· ' ' hanJ-s.-o\lrl:d !tome pun n'ccd urigin~lll)•lt:l!hh\O\ en b} croftc.·r~ in Count} Dor1lgnl

lrctmd No'' '' P\en b) n1.1chin~.·. :1 clt.Jr:tCtl!ri~tk of the f.'!bnc is irs cnlmful nubs.

l1l>t

Joublc·dlCstcJ j.tckcl '' :ltSl(u:~r. 01 omer(mH C'ltt hl all(l\\' 1.l\ l.!rl:tpping :1t irom ... lm.iug "irh tW-(l vcn ic:tl mws u(buttom anJ a ingfl• ru\\ of bmmnhole5, '' ith ustl:l!ly n singll' burton nu tlw unJc.:rsiLic to .;~·cure tl1c fabric ..m d1<> \nhcr side. IH.l IHtL\STCn: \

Dot nu: L..0Ll.AR' .i\n old lt.'rlll for .l turnc:J del\\ llllr fi1ldcd C'111lar: J.$ l)PPl'St:J to tlw upturned sltlglc '' ing \."olbr St} Ie. DOUTII.E CUFP :::!ec fRENCil CUI F DOUI\Lf KNIT.

Double

t:.Ked f.1bn( that lms the

:tppc;u:tnc~ of tWJCL"-knini'd

jcrsc} lauric I)oubl<.>-knn ftbn~.· br re.1:.on af irs rwo ·nt·cdlc con't rucdo11 is n more d1mcnsi~.1nall)' ~tahlc doth th.ll1 ~irtglc needle or wm·cnrinnnl1cr.;c) i.'lhric ~lade un circul.tr muclnncs DnlJBL~-Vl.N n:D: Si!r p.tgc ~9

Thjl) do~dytextun:d t"ill ~·mrst ruetion lor lll!ckwcar produ,~.· .. '('ry iitll bodied. lui\uriou~ silk rh.,t pro,idel' the grouud t(,r mall) sp.IC..:cl and nil on· r flgu r•cs. DOUUI.I WARP

The m;tl111t'r in which a £:lflllt'llt hJng~ from rht• 'ihouldcr or wai'r ror t~1\.;mpk dte Lngllsh dr •IJ.1l' (or English lounge) is au intcnclcJ "l) lc fe.uun.: 0i men's j .•ckt•r;, or omcrcu;HS pionecrc,1 i11 the carl) l~.lOs b) the Pdnc(' uf\\alc!..,'s m:wcrrd: tll1lor I rcdcnck Sch,~Jt,•, inspired by the \.UARPS t 0\1, it as char.tctcn~:t•d h} fullucs~ acrms chc:-t nnd mcrthc houkb bladt· l•l form tht vt·t'lJcal \\ nnkkc; lor form comfort. and the tmpression of rnu:.cularitY The draped ~1lhoucui.' domin.ucd men' L!Uiorcd tnsh1ons t1woughout tit~· I'HO.,.md 1930s llr.: word ~.fcrn•c· from the I rcnch t!r.zp. me11ning Mdoth .. (Str llnugln, hmb.mks und U,tr) Cnopcr· p:tgc 38) DJt.\P[·

DHAWI~~G IN

A tntueexpre:),'>tnndc~nrbingn IICCC.;~lf} I ighteuiug .11 .1 pan :t g11rtncllt WIJ~t'C lo<,s(!ncssc.'l:i$t:" .1 nmningstit~eh drnwn nglu ~ .., ns ru gather tlw m.uen11111ore ur lc ..~ 11poa1 itsclf.

or

or

Rdl-rs to tbiH ~~~t...- the l rotch fork oi n pur l,( trou!ir•rc; \\here tlw m:tll' gu11t.1IJ.1 Me pl.1 .:-d Bclorc bncfs '" lu.·tl muST mc..:n wore boxc~. smpC'ndcn; pullt·d the truU'mr h•gh up mtO rl1c t..r'Otch IH!CC.\Sit:mng rh:a rhl' uppt.'r thrgh .trc:t of a slim fimng tramc.:r bt: dcstgnt.: I to acrommodnrc tlae ~right or "le-ft cJ;-c, cd m;~n (Mo'>t men dresc: on Lhl' left) DIU SS;

\ J I I rescued tncn' s-tyle from rt'i \ Ktora:m I rruglu p~kct mcm.tfm h) promuung \\ h.n he fL•nnt:d drcr;..o; 11oit • roft .:t:~ll.u lurt~ \Hth loungc1illlto; pleated frum oft.dt~uhlc culhrformal DR.I:S'i or1 f d\\
Gto

:~h ll't uJstl·ad of st4lrchca fnmt ont s "ir h o;r •IT,., us,g a:oll.u" dtnnt.•r tarkct$ 0\l~r 1aslconrs l>.1cldl!'> \\Jt'ih':

~~H

tu r<~pl.u.-c full bad.cd tmco; ct~

\ dur.~blc

co tf'il.' mutcnal wnh .tl\\ ill "e.ne t \:lf..•ndm~ up\\,trd tm,ard lilt' left· M 1 \A<..J J ht nJJuc p~t.Jbahh d~mc.-. I rom ns u c f tr rht dnlllll~ umfi.mn of the 1\nuo;h lrln) an trop1cul clunarcs DRILl

nu· ddTc rcnti! in fndlC'i b
DR\.>11

1. h

nW:t'iurcmtmt of .1 stm Jad.ct"~ dwo;t and du~ su11 tfOUM.!fiS. \\!liM [\ fmt \m~na111 lllf..!ll ~ "iUUS :liT. d~'l!;JW i ll' .H·rn•nml""tm: 11 st~ mdt drop tfi'r c:-.::unplr .:1 .:12 111 h com cJ.cq 311 I a ~b indt t rwl!'t , ''at 'it) arhl<·tlc cut:!! feature .1 dmp uf ~'eon indt("" or more

Dl' c 1\ l11~ mu:a dllrable J:tbt h. t:tiiiSlfliCliL•n so called be-t-:t\1 <' 1t 'ht!d:. \\,Ut•r.IJkc a du,·k d, ,c_, Onuiu:.tlh .1 t> • pl.uu do.;t•l) woven fitbrk tc,..CJnblmg, 1lu: liglmH•tghr cnm.1s U!>ed for sail:. Used fc.,rsl:~t.ks sporf'menr. Jlld ''ark cluthc:; l UT1-f.l. COI,T ,\ thrl'l' quart:et h•ngrh. k10 l:: 6mng ~oar\\ tth a huocl [tst..·nt•d wil h loop-; an,{ toggles of \\Ood {II" horn In .t h~itV'\ ''onlc.n fabrk,tt \\.Is dubb~d b) the lhl) al Na'} tl1c.' ~mm·o} coat· :m"1 bC"c.umc the ''gn:mtr~ wear of IJcld ~1:trshal Montgomery m \\ \\ 11 In the 1')50!> th•· l\"'1 1 EAGl E .::;c.~ I ~doptl'
c.::tmpu i.1 luon -1111? name cOtnl'.S from the Hclgl.lll 'capon town oi nuf(d

J

Du~.t "" \VtND. Ole l'RINCL 01 WAll" .~c:t

pages 64

and 6~ DUNwAIU!:I: )\ CCl:lr"c 1wilJ t~OUOn, tlriginal!y

JH:tdc 111 l~omb:t) :llld ukcnup for \\enraboard ship b' -.nibr" iu till' cightc~.•uth ccntur)~ Th,· "ard nc1\\ rdcrs to :1 p:m of \Hlr k bot tom!' or jean!' in btu\,· denim DUl'IONI 1\

lu\mimts ~hanmng~l:·pc ~ilk l::tbric 1111dt:

from 3 double srlk ilber from t'\\ o cocotm:-. nc:-.rcu mgcchcr (Srr Ullllllt.'rft in rl11.· "SUit rabrico:" gar..: fold page 9~) M

[liON1; [CRU

\

[so:-: A bl:t~k color likt> that of cbom

-

\\Ood

beige or pale ran 'hade of unblcafhc?~j ilk or

Iuten EoW.\RDJAN:

P\.'scripti\C of f.tshi\)IIS f:t,·orcd b) King

Edward VII (reigned 1901 1910) and. oisub:-t•qm·nr r.,shion_.. b.t l'U on rhc origin:~ I-.. !>Ul,h a:. long J:lfk~t:-. :tnd dt:1inpip~

pant~.

\Vuisr• lcugth j:trh•t of<,liH• b,' '-.~cncrJI (),,ighr !) ll~t·nhowl!r.111d

[lSI NIIOWI R JAGl\l J •

rn cu:lu

1

The hsgh"

J\cl\ \\JUl

t

sed tn: u rd

u pt;nd.cr

nd

J1

M

1

\\.lJ!;tband curH.:' up"" rd m rhe b.1d· fiOJ hug ll >tch at tlu.· C&: m-.•r bach floC :.im fhr- tdt:Oll , , t It oust"r \\ lu.·n \\t armg a on JHtLJ\ :at fN IC.~ niL

r \ JarL tU\>t btu

wl"'r ,f an t: liStgn un1l1 mt 1 1'1."' LLOPF lltc ouu:r heU f tl n , l!.llt' dt \l'>tblc IntO '> htch thr mt rluung .... 11 ~rtcrl

l

1 l'i\UH r t\ ~tmp or orn.uncnt ~>tJTdud r 1 u n li onto the: huuldr."T o{ a1 ganncm bon \\ d fr m md rtnq uuai mns (Srr. s..1fa.rt J••da:l p.tg{" 1olt)

n upngln <;LtUCC rcqumng ;I «
Rfif j

•

I

[SJ'~\ Dllll.Il \ Jnd.tl wnh ..l cnma ttppcr and .a n p s~..~lc· lor bcadl\u~ar. h' AS cmgmall v.um b, dockv.nrh·r m Sp:un and I r.mc

E roN 01.1 A R i\ rounibl i"l ul c
bcJdr:'

,,Jc c J tr •U r

rop \\here the left front of the \\.11 tband ext ruif n 10 fimr mchcs across tlte middl~ ro l.l ten 1Hth nh r ;.~ buuonholc and burtun r1r hook .md e\ 'm l tltl oppo~irc ~ 'de of the wai~tband\ front ( rr 11lu Uil.Uun page 6! top page 2.68.)

l "'r H t 1 .t\ mall hole or pc:rfor•n mn m:tdc l l.1n· or t:~pt• as m a shoe

rt"i I\'C a

r, [UT COI.l. \JL A drC!>S} co1br O:t}IC \\here small huks n•c situated nc:trthc edgl• mtd\\il} up rhc coll.u'"~ an:ommodate :1 galtf or ~i.h c.r colbr bJr th:u unscrew~ :.Hom· end The.st· cmh are uswlh m the l~mn of tin} ,qnan.:. or ball . \\lu!.!h c.ut h g.mn hL.J "1d1 a small shme. md1 m; a cabochon rul'} 1r ~mppl11rc

r \1\RJ C

Thl" mo~T. comprt:hcnsl\i:' tt>rm Ill dtL' t~uk

crade \n\• ktnd of :uncle mad"· from ;t .:umbuuucm f tcxtilq"3rns Cloth "hirh r.mb nl"xt to fabnc m 1 dc..h ripti\ e bro!u.ittes: em not be u'){'d to denotl" l.ti:t" carper. or· knmed goods. bur all of rhr c .trc f:.tbna that ts. m:ucriaJ., mndc \\ ith tc:xtJic fibe-rs or prn I AC£ 1fhc hcncr lookmg or .tnt<-nded upper c.tdr of

r ·'h"' l NC· The luting or ('(Wcrmg JT the edge or ,nlwr pan of n g.trmcm. Iik~ tlll~ em ~nng on tht" lnpcl nJ llinncr jlhcket (~c:c r~lgL' 1.42)

.a

~

othL•rs iu nllllt:'ln• :.cn'tL"c in \V\\ I I Luct \:tfilllJS '\L'r~i{)Jili of tlu :;cylt> w~rc.: .tdaptcd for civtli.m we.tr

J NO

Lt \\

l.t\( J,

d{1rh

I'GCSII r 1 1.. 1\ n off.,., hitc, the :.h:r~.k· o( :111 c~"hdl

drnb wool \\'l)fll

IN .. 1 JSH

._lfWI\Rf'

I N D ON r.Nn u IJtTI.:-.:G· t\ rcnn .l~"p!.ed w a \H':l\'t' of rdtern:u ino 0 '' hitc nnd colorco w \ RP •,·nrn~ t bat fonn •1 minu ..culc cht.>ek effei"t. used in Cit" M IW.A \ lU OADC.l•) n 1. and ux htltD drcs.s :;hirrmgs

J NGl N I I: RED MOTJ I A me-t if dt:ll .lppc!
J <\ltU: A rib

\\i:;lH!

li.tbnc\\ltbacotdltf"tflict

.tehte\ cd b) w•tng h~,·tcT pmt m rhc lllll"'it.. Ut. n ttl rhe WAR I' I ht> oppo.mt- oi RI:I' l~tll~.: •~ usn! tor bpd L1nng~ ~1u fonn:tl cYo:.-ning dodtl.'"' other trtmnnng' and ncd."'''"·1T. fr \\~, ongin:tll) a ht od \\UntO\ nun A• tcnn later d~cnhmg :tnunl \ctlmg ( S« pa.;c ~-)

r.-.t R I'1 ~

Uoth a pbre otnd :1 dc.stgn The pl.lC~o: t~ ~ ..m.tll. nts;i!cd r<:Innd ru..:kcd .>IT rhc ..o~N llf cmLmJ 1111.' dcstgn '"a i:'olorful kmmng pattern wnh no' ·band:- oiwlnr in a fl£ :t\\ 1\ ~ oi conti:;tm:atJnn

gnn.st .:s 6-ltJJ\ bad:.ground 'W~tcrs bc~mng dup-.utcrn \\ere first made b) the 1s-h•1J crofu:rs or renam t~c" Ht.:.-:Jnn-g that au~ Hdm.m f:mncrs \\ cr IIl a:onomtc trouble. the nuJ.-c of \\ md..or donned 'De .lS rhe Cilpi.Un of the R...wal and \ndcm \.Jo.lt t'lub m S.unt \ndre\\-; m Iq~~on:Jpulung thl• ..,\.:Jter arui the tdand -s cconoun into fa~ ronurd

( ,-r PrUicc of\\ ale<: page

bonum nght )

rull.tr Jnd sh •uldcrs of a fuJI fa$h1£lncd g.mnt'm slu wm,g 1h~t n was knmed ut t"t1C pien" and tll\•n ~m.:h~-..d r.;c;hwrung D1C.1Jt•; the proccs.. of mcre:hing or dt:cri!a. Ill£ th~.: \\ tdth vfk nlrred f:iliric h} 'onnnllmg du~ rnph:mt·.nl ot tbc- nt~dl~s S« M~HIO~t:D

Tt:l.l

f.iiT Th~.: Lcrm .1pphed

m a culor clur:rernms It" ongU1tl 4ld~ .:tfrcr '~po!iure ro sunlighr. \\:Her. hle-.1dung. pn:~ rug bc;1t. en:.

FruOR.\ :\ m~n:; {Oit fdr har "~ idu ccnt~r crca.<:c and 61 roUL-d bnm It mkes u:-. n.unc fi-am the drama f"idcrJ {r 1) b, \ actoncn 'ardou (.S« Btddlc, pjgt: ~) one pmcc of m.ncnal.ll\ it.~ edge upon another: thc 'it'\Hl t•dgc being cithcr r.m or rumcd m .JC@rdmg ro ih~; m.ncrial or the pw posl' to FLU 1"l\,

C\\ mg

~ cu.lmphsh~·d

FnTI}. , The pmrc..;. ofcombmg fi1rpanidcs or ther fibers b) kndtdmg then fthrmking the-.~ nuo one mhd f»C'Gl: of mat.cn.1l l"hrec uuncc" t.lffur make .1 hat. [ka\ er w s once usaf but Of\\\ umsth nurn:1 has t~tk~n l

place

EfLUNG S« \\EfT In W("..l\ mg. me prn mnnmg .1[ ng. lt :tns:!lc~ tlJ rhc length ur \\ t\Rr yarn ff"l£ flt~ rcnn appltcd w gr.u:ics ofwool or conon tn '"- ~n mg. ~udt a'C h)O~ l2.0s, I)Cl.'-

fI

GERffl' LrNL.> n-1 l1t~:

t 1 th tip

lengt:h l1fa ~O:tt th.Jt CXll.'ndc:

frhe finger ormrdw21 berv.ccn the htps

omd knt.-c

fJ lUR\H"c ~~IT. Bulk} h.tru:I-knn :v.c.ncrmadt: f n; tuntl It r '' Jtl'r rr:pellcnt "ool ut Emq t r tchc~ d1arJa rt"liC oi \ran I land off the 1\J\ of {,:tl\\'li} 10 ltclJnd l)ngtnalh f-r: m In It f1~1t"'nnen who ' -.re h.tndknn swc.-:trcr!J m t p-;utcrn md.Jcaung i\h~.:reth lr\cd..

f v.adth pur m bc.lo" the \\'3l.'it nl

I L\IR \ urpiu

•mnl"nt l gn .m mrcnu rul ZlJlpt:nr~nc~ nfluo~uco; t tdc r du; ct ttn \ !me bapc fmm rh~ \\;}1 l

(

h ~ku ~ 11

l ·

th \\

pAg1!

mi'

lOS ) r.t:"

d

lous 1

'\1.

\

·n

ll n r u u t.:d \ .trm LU phun art HII rh :t pp<".d urfar c ~once 1tht' \\ :t ~ f

\P \

jm:kct oCk.-ttht ror other nut~d:t) \\tth a shccp!'kin hn1ng and tnmnung fuqcncd with a .,ftd,· fibnmcror with bunons fliGHT J \CKET \\:tl.H-IengLh

mechnrtJC'.aJ1} mckt•d uuo the bad:·sid~· ofjn"qU!lnk-d destgn th:Jt musr "'cro ~"or •Jloar- .:wcr the" I f T rhrcud:<~ on the l:udt \.Urf:tcc nfa "ovt:n fubric I L."' 1 RO;:o..;T A dt:Ntre in which a pbckr.:1 ur pir~c uf [1bri.: .:cwcr.s the buttons or zipper. u~cd on coars. J:l~kc:•t<; .lnJ tr
{)J'

rooTWT \R u:~r~o. The rea~•m

win·• an old boot or

shoe is tkd to :t hone} moon car 1S a rt•minder of .m and.:nt cu:-wm. In An£1o Saxon ume~. th<" shoe haJ the importnuc.: rhac a. wedding rmg dot:' m modern time~. Th.: hdd~ would pass her shoe tO thl' groom dunng the ccrcmon} :md he would st nkc her he:td "irh it :ts a ~ign ,,fhis fururol! authar.it) u w;tcmng to his pou;o,t' to w:nch her "'~-.rcpper 4

FORK

Str. CRCl rcu

FO!l.:'\fAL; ·r hu ll..:rm .tppllcd to clothe.-.. and J.CCI!~"C'fiC:i for w<.·~r on full~drc». or form:tl \)CO.'iions t.l ikuar" or cla•uter jackers for cvenmg: cm.n-..':1} t:oat.<: or oxford ptckers ,,.ith ~tripcd trouser.' tor d:!)'IUllC Fotn\'AJU> PlEAT A ItnU!'Cr pleat th:n fold, Ltcmg th~ fl} 1.;sociatcJ wuh EngiL'ih tail(!nng. ,tl> opp;; ed to dtc rcu·1 'i.!d plc.tt onl!maJI~ chlled Lhc l onunenul plcnt. \\ hach hh:es u:m-arJ rhc pocket.:.. (Sur Errol fh n11

page 118.)

Ff..,.l H P••"'t. l reJung .t t~nc ~ covenng t:hc surf.-tct" unprn tt .:tppcar.zn c b bfCllching J1·cmg. pnnnng \ r '\\ ~erpn.,..•flng tt It b 'S:tid that tC.'itllc bhn .rrl" m..1d · Ill r:ht fint'lh11l}'!.- .tS no ):.trd of doth ' ompJ trl} free from dcfcru

J

\scat \Hth Jt:,.s fullncs than .1v1:rJge t.".au~mg the ~:1nncnt to :tp~:tr t110 btg 111 sc;ar ;~r~a ll..AT BT:·

rtOA1'': W\Rl' thr(!aili that arc 110!

~m;Ul mdi.!Iltunun;; o~mun-i dtt:

FtiHION '\t \R

rt.ARES. ~« J;H l 8C~n\)l\t"'

·nng fi r tht= m• tth of a pf'\.d..t!t

l OL LAim Ton Frcndunan aJoulanf L" a "'ilk h:mdkcrchn:·f 1\'ld.a~ fou.la.rd ,., a nnll dorh for ned.:\\ i"~r or scarves usuallr made ln a laght ..!1k tabrtc for prmnn~ multicllforecl parte' ns and often shnpeJ hke tt·ardrop or. h,trru::t mcmt'S lnt:rtAiu,ed to Ament:";~ 111 1R9o hy the ~enior partt\er of llrof'k& Urot.hc~. ~I r rr.1 ncis Lloyd. (."cr puckt•t (qu.1rc pag~.: .21~)

One of SC\Cf"'JI name-, for dtc -o;hp knor • (1hc • :~don; knot- hCJng another) 11.' cd m kncn rOt R IN II.!\ NT)

tht! "long tte~ at du.: c.nd of the mnctcem h tcntUI) .md «.-:trl) '" tmtJcth ~emuracr Tit~.: fi10r m l!.md ~~ thought to b~ n ['('f renee to the rour~111 1-lnnd Club fmrudcJ m f ngl111d 111 the rnn~recnth Ct'ntucy b oung rncn \\ho mdulgcd m cmn..tge r..ICmg nnd "ho Jdorrc..l thr l.at1d oHn01 for therr llt.:s \ln:n~au,C'h rr c uld rd4 r 1 the I') pe ofknnt u~ h) dtc dri\ c: r \\hen h held the rctl1 tlf .1 Cirn&~gt.: pulled bl four hor>c m ,, m;anncr rh~l re mbloo a knm wnh l"\\Oiung u·.11hng cuJ p..1ge 1C•6 and r6-) ---~-

I mo N • I hl' lcat.hct· UM!d 111 tht! lowt:r pan ul d1c qiUlrtl'r or h:h. k J'WTJUJl

of thrt slwc,; l f'J'l R

A l"liiUI'IHg lll~l• orgmng HOUH'rs 1hc .tppcarnnet.• of normal·su.c cuff~ th:u do nm h.tvt: t unugh lcugd• to make th~ cuir \\ rdth" pmpt rl}

l

J'I:NCJJ

ncn

li.)M\..

I RENt H L n ll1c doublt: lcugth turm·d bJd '"·uff of a dn.:.;.. o;hm, fnst<'lll d \Hth l.'Uftlmks I JU N II Tl PI' I. c. 1 hc fi111slung of rltt• IJl'iJdtH•nds of !l nc<"ktll' \\ ith the '>arne mnt~.:~rul as the 11IH·Il of the- til': rn:o.rc:1.l nj a h111ng: a mort.' {'Xpcur>t\e :tnd sJallcd tim~h to :J ll( ~I

HI

• l >.;c.

AI

P~>

ounCl' \\ur reds. dus f..ttha of 1It\.· mud an high m asr lllUI.l'S a

pc.•r l~l't .tnt i~fute tO wnnkJ(' prone

tropic J! \\l.~1ght s111ri ng-. RON"I Pl.[~ n

Tht..: pleat.) in dt\! !Op!;idcs uf trousers t h:n run an line\\ uh uou~cr< front ae:~se"S (Sc·r. p:tge

I

th.U I Cf•mpart.•d Ill ,fur tn th fruu f ;t (St<.c bou1 nru rrc pagL !f ll J

61 ) r~_;u C.AHDIGAN :'IT ITCH )\

h:tsic loop !ilrtlCillrC 111 buii..T nb kmrrmg r:. produced b) plain net•dlcs kruuiug \\hit(· the rib n~c~llc.!:- tuck \t thc rwxt counc. the fl''~"C rJccurs 1 hr 1:1bric h!t:- d1e . .ante .tpp\.·araWt' ou DLllh -.ides. rhcrc bt•ing :m cquolmrmbcr· ot loop~ 1111 d1c f:tl't' .llld rht- rc\1.'r~t: o)f ~Itt' l:tbrieFULL I \~IIJuNJ:D ,r\ term

appliL·d ru sweater.. and ~H.h\'r .:;:munu' compk·td}' knirtcd ro thdr lrubhcd hapc 011 rho.: ma,hin~. .Shapiug j, done hy :1dding or :suhrrncring srirchc:; to widen or n:~rnl\\ the i.1hrk ill dc.trcd :~rcn~. The pt\J..:ess is used for .soc:k ..... ~\\~:ttl!l , ttndl'f" rar. ~md orhcr :sport:S\\ c;1r

r

11u· .p;u:mg •fun nt"L'dlta fa krum 1 tnJLhmc \~ luch d~rennmc the- thr lu fin 11 tlf t h\: I mth .d f.ilin fh h1ghc rrh g u r numb r of needle per gJ\ ~ n ~re.t th thmn r rhc fJbri (u\U.• t

pi lt-1 t hm nt t d c

LuH Nflll HUITPN llutu. non J \

d1c opcmng madt> b) th tJpt:nug Jun sit C\c

<.;u.J.Jt

I• HI S~l' ~l.ut} 'tllhmt·r -,umng1> in till' JlJ~U'> \\ t.: rc t: laslu 111cd nfalooscl) wtncu. cnsp wook:11 1:1hra&: <':tiled "tr\·-.ru.- \s rt "dghcd ••Imust q uunl-e' fl) rh"· \Jr.! u ,,,1s £.:.trccl) light weight lull it\ pr·r~msit) nccuUIItt:d lOr 11.5 cnnlnc' li,J:J~, nullt>d 111 8 to 10

cloth

l~o~\liNJT \ d:ul n!d •qm.·.o u.-: nnn raJ u d 11

ufl

illt.
'"

A lu\\ .murt 1>ho \\Ith ( l dt-d I n • thai pass Llrrough lt·atllcrluop m.srt>;td ut ~ lt:t ::md • ~..rm" bnd·ward :md fon\ar.1.1cro \.lh Ul!ilCJ smn,•tunrs lll!ln amund rhr nn' lc A L-liW"h re..t 1 tht } Jti(.' U<>IUlll)" mJde \\ulmus n tongue II \\t1. r a( .1 tl'lnguc 1 useJ. "•' ll"lLlll) ftmg\:d TJ ~;; pte em ghillac IS named afrcr rhe hrgbland s:cnaJJr'> \h Yt rt tllt"tn c..HJUU

A s~.;Jnl t H."tcd thrtad uJublc tor makmg r:mcd edge~ ruuund h.mdm;u.lt• buu th I

viM I' I JIRBU

Gl M l'J NG 1runnung and c..rmult.mcou!tl de. ~;:tm the edges nflt~thcr pscccs Int >;ho maler J !> tiJ \\ ith a gimpmg madunc: m ,,Jud1 ld.'J t l \\Jth \'.lr"lous panem.; .md d{'1;!gn can bt- fined From thL htda)~\\ord rnfi?11ft vludJ bcc:unc dte h c nchgumgan. A d} cd m thr- \.un fi bn :111 l"X:tct rcplicn c·f th~· madr.a" constmcwm •n a m.tm GINGJII\M

t hrrnds

in WI FT :1$ m rhc \\rf\RP GeuL·r.Ul .hown m

ched:s or pbuk (Set Da\ id Nl\'en pngc 20'J) l~l EN I'LAW· A four

b\ fourand £'\\0 b\ t\\ tWlll t•ffcn :in both th~~ \\' \ IU' ~fld I'ILLJN(, dtr<·• u n' 'fhr ['lncy owrpl.:tid uf ch~ GLJ NL RQ.1 Ht\R1 l'l.Aill J~> mi :-.ing ill n glen pbid (Scr p:1g~ .:!.h8} L~ J.i.:,Jl.JRQ_U !I ART l'LAI D .\ \\ ooJeJt

or\\ nud


I u ED COL LAR: .i\ ("ollnr !>titi~nt"d b) :m inrl'rliniug l:umnatcd through h\!:&t and pre~!'ure w thl' top

or n~ati11g ruatenal mndc'\\Jth the c\t:T populllr {!! u plaid wn h nn ,o, erpl.:ud effect '' ~:n e 111 both\\ <\I,I ;znd

and or the under.,idc Gbric to pn!\'l!nt wilrrng and wnnkl6.

direcuom Tlus i unc of the.- dt trt t du·d" onguutll) :.doplt?d for In en \\ear b) nmcwcndt c..:lltUI'} ~cornsh l:tndO\\"lll"n> It \\.1 a i;t\ nm~ uf Ed\\ ard \ 11 I \\ he.1 he! was lhc Pnuu: of\\ 1l " (.vc

Bondmg the inner and outer shell of n garml!nr b) "dding rhc r.wo lay!.!r:- together The most common mcd1od of tailoring co:u irnrw. wda). 1 h~· intcrltuiug j, cl1:ued '' irh :1 bonding .1gent and "(u~<·d to the ttJuJerstdc ni the surftJCc fabri'-' wnl1 heat .111d pre!>'-Ur~· . gi' iug the clmh more sh:tpl' :md :-.tabtlir). l11 e:-;pensl\'c dotlll'!ii rh~!\c r''") se,·tious ,,.,,nld be sewn togctht!r b)' h.iiiJ fU\1 NC.:

ill Wl',l\'~ in ~jn!!l~ or t\h' pl) comht•d )':tl'll 'onu.•tinte" :1 thrl'e harn<'S" \\l',l\l'. l.:n\ BAIUtl N E· A

t\\

l.h:tJ':lCl<'ITI.c.l b)' di.tgunal twill line" in eitlwl' .1 .J) <)a' 63~dcgrc1! ,,hl~ljncd \\ Hh mort.' \\i\RI' thr~·;tds tlum WII Ar thr~1ds.

tightly WO\l!U !l~

w make it .1lmost \\:ttc• pronf lJsu::tll} in :.olid colM~. rn \\OOI ~·\)liOn,

(Jr woc·l blL'ml. thi' ddicne but luxumm!>1) sdk) <·lc.rh ts popul.tr for mtdwcight :-uittngs (,f trou,cr~ (.'lrr DaHd Nivl n. p:tgc 114) GA 10511 l), crshoe of rubb~..·r or ruhbcnud f;~hric \\llh .1 rubber sole dos!'d iu front b) a z1ppea· 01

buckle.,

1 I LUNG

rhc "~uit I-abril-" gatefold) ~'ivi~L· :o-;ATI\ E .1\n cxprc -.ion coml-'i m [u~bnd Jur111g the TCJ2P~ and 1q1os mc.uung h' dopr the indJgc.nou... dn:-.. .s of::tn} lncJI culrur~ ror the 1-u rc1pl'an it mcnm \H'rmng rhC"co;padnllc f the ~kditc•r:tne:m fl~hcrm:tn, rho! ber. tot tl.e Bn qut loc.rl or 1hl' seaward o:h rc of rhc: Rt\1(•r:t, I~ r \rnenrnn ir tr:tn:-.hucd trtW dn:·~smg hke th~ f ..anbbt.Jn td ndcr of lkm1Ud.1 .md 1:un.:u.~

GonGT -..C'nm th•u JOmnhe J:t.;ket 'colbrm ~~~ bp ( '\u pages .p. and 43-)

l.l RAIN The marL.;n\!' that arc left un the Jlmmod "' rhc r<"mt)\ .d of h. 11"l .uh..r ..;urf.Io. r of a l~thcr aftcr

\\Hh 3 p:m"rncd sur.fac(" pn: duud b' pnnnng r cmbu ~mg for footwear G:tuNITI gr
GRJ\'1

A darkt h .Judt: of~' ~&li!C~ln;;

--~-

Li 1u h.• r: ( <.R \l) \~oon

Thl' \;f.;l£1..: of doth ,,Sit "ornt'" from loom pnor to bleadune d) mg. or flni luug rtw mmw ~-orne.; from rhe Fr.cru:h wordgrc~e. "hu:·h u~~J to n:ftrtt naumtl illL:duth bctnrc tlni,hutg btc1 nngltctzafto -gra} "

II 1\C~ IN~... 1 \t;._l 1"; "llxk" is !;hon for ~hucknc)." dcs•gn:niu_t! .t --rtdtlll· hem;'-" il'r ordiTI:.tl') rond or lmdiC"

GR! ~~OJ "t[

more "'spring" or llaJc ut the hip ro >~IIO\\ for\\ 1ddt \\hen sitt mg .1 ~uide :t hor:sc, ,1 deep ccntcn ~;: nt to open ll\ 1.'1" rhc.• huN' (the original!i had \v:tterproufcd tntl Jinrng). thn•<.•- nr iOur buttnu from \\o~th siH1TI lapd..,

A ned,,\ car fabric wtth n gau?.cltke qualm nude on .1 pcqwrd loom'\\ nh rhrcads ..--ro -.mg from ~tdc to 5Jd~ Origuull~ ;t black silk bee \\Orn in rrnncc- during rhc: caghtcenth ccmuq· Fsrs1 \\ o\'Cll e~dust\d)· m halt \)II h:md looms cltc sumplU\JitSll•:.-s of tr!o open tcxmre has c:-rnb!Jshl·d dw; !ioltJ rnlor w· "-' u t:.tplc 10 the ltghtwei~hJ 'Htnlrob~·~ ui the "'''rid':; ~rton tl cugno!iccon G~t0mR.Aa

Thi dulled, nL -.ilk t~t.:ing jo; ll:>a-1.1:' .m .tltcr:ll.tti\S: to the himc.r:11 ttin for trimming 011 loJrm.d t'\cnmg dorlu:o; neckwear, auJ :accc"~l'ncl' It onron:ual in the ~IIddie. \ges :111d gained popularit) in f r.tnce "h~n tlk rarn \\ ns u~cd 10 m::tkc 1:abric. and i nntcd fur n< pronounced Fll.U~,; rib cffc..:t 1 ike FAILLf the h:t'm nnpltcs n hc-3\1 or dtickgr.Un line m the cro •wt~ dtrccuon of the gooJ, (Src p.tgc..• 2.4;.) ~

cwd111n O\cr..:oat p-atterned after tltt• Jon r coat \'>i1rn b, the grcnadli.'T guardc; m Engl.tn~I It tc; :~dark color: double-bre:tsred ·oat with n h:tli bl·lr. an m\ l!rtcd pleat cxt~ndjng from benn.'i'n the houldc.r bl.ldcs r • dtc homm1 hc.:m. and det..-p folds :1t rhe sides

parh riding r.uhcr dmn for rncing ur hunung A longer than r~gubr-ll'ngth tweed Jacket f(,r rrdutg :.1 lmr.;;c \\ ith 3 wa1st lmc r:ti~t:d n three ·c.1unncr inch ft~r

and .slamt:J ,jde O.tp po~kcts(wtt!J Or'\\tdHJut n .;l:tlltr.:d t iLkct pnck~t) J:,r C:i"} :u:cc<.~ The h.tcking stlhoucm• £n':ltl} iniltll!lh.Xd rile ~-ut urlugh dass f nglislt

t.ulur111g (Su p:tgL! 1OR) 11.'\t;._I:-:G roc"rr ,\ htp·lcq•J flup po•:kct .u dt(• :-.idt• of .t ~pon r:H:kcr thal i!> sl:tmcd or cut 011 !l an .mgle..1~ '\\ trh the Jbp pn~-kl'ts ou .t hacking j:Jckc[. {Sa p:tg..· 88 top) f I,\ I RCLUlll· 1\ stiJ{ wit'} f.1bric Usll;lll) mndc uf a

couon or linen in lhl· WAH.I' aml f~.:,nncrlr hor.sch:ur (uc in rhe horse's JnJJlc) in the: rtLLI.NG .lS .111 imctlamng or .sriffc..•nm!! mar..:rial. Tc.1c.hy, mohnir ol" forme; {tf hur-.eh.tir an· tt_,cd in the filling.

lrl ARU l.-0 \T

l ;uM "' n L A name .;ometimc.." appl•cd m :a JOLLARD R!t" tlk t$lcft ,t.ghtl) h::u:sh by a cc.•n:un gum c.\udcd b} the tlk\'.orm A~ a-= removnl lt:.,t;'it'll"' \\CJgln ,1 gum mill[;, WU\Cn wirh parr of rhc ••u••• mrnct w be boJlcd off at'tcr wca•. tng Tht' proccs:. pn1ducc :t ~ch'Ct [C..'\tlli"Cd surhtCCSIIIliJar to d1c fccJ of' Jrh.lcnr madclt•r

\n Qld fa!ihionl d tte'rm for casual ~hoc.'i

rt: M\HE

"rth tlHI.k ~;:rcpc nabbcr ~olc'i

Tht" ch~d: wasorrgrn~ll} The ( o1gach from thi' Clbpool •Jre.t m th~ wesr of cml . md \t nmund 18-4. h \\i:t5 nclopted b. an .\mcrtcan ~hootmg dub ..ts rhetr lwl:ry and the n.1mc changed Its W.\R I' ..utd WEfT ttre gcncCIII} arr..mgcd in rhrcc colors :~nd \\,men In .a l'.\0 up f\\O dm-.n rwtll. An .~en d1cck p~ncm \\olth row nf altcrn.mng coloro; and, uo;unll) n \\h tl" background l 'rd tor sumngs sport ,.tckct!i and trou t:N (c;a ]tntrll) Stewart page LS9) <.rl "'i \..ll 8 ( HJ

K.

II '\I Rl.l N£ STRIPES· \ C:l")

llllHO\\

stripes in one rhrcad

Lhack11e.s:-. rh:u resemble IUlirmadc brwca\ingsinglc threads in color to wntrnst with the b.td.grow1d of ... \\llrstt·d WOl•l or corron shirung !\lore '-limcn.,tonal th.m a 'oliJ. tlu: tlnl.· [1ncr li11cs :;cr uff rhl· \\ cm·e1 a \H!II as gi' Lug ltim a $liglulr dangatcd l'lli·'t (s,·,· ~ hirt l~lhric~" ~.ttcfult.l; p;tg~ ''' bNttJilt;)

J Lur

UACK·

t\ rtwasun.:mcm acrus~ tltl' widc:-.r pan of

the jackc1':; bl.aJ"' (rom rlu: ba~k (Ctll£'t sl'um £11th(' puin1 whcrt• rhc :.lccve"s back St'Uill1!1H'r"C\7ts the armhole. II '1 1 ·.st 1 EYl: rhl' slc~·,·e of;~ slurt or- oahcr g.tnm•nr

cxtcndmg .lpprl1Xi m.uel} \Yiudsor. p:1gc 76)

10

rlw c Ibl >\\ (.:-u tht! Duke of

tfALF WAIST!\ tllC:J.~tlr~nlCill

t.tkcn at dn·w;uo;rJmc

from thl' J·•ckct':~ hack cents:r ~!.!am to the coat" from

cdg..· HAlF \VJNn OJL A kuot brger tlt.m 1hc.· four rn hand

but sm
FI .... r 'rigmalh, :m t· rrr.a thid.ncs<; of r.1bric .tdded ro llt'tJtrjiJzc du: 1mpaa of.J shotgun~ recoil on the hoqrmg iad d t~houldcr Nownd.t)S It 1 .Iddccl a.: 1m ph as .a ...!cn,ratt..·c ti. otrttre {,l N

r{

"U TAl

\

d.uk gray r;hadc. stmilar to th~ ,h.u:.i,• or'

cl c nu. r.U f ~ gun b:trrd bL S)f r

\

&J1TT1cnr to

fahrrr M'rtton m~crtcd .u the !fC.:trn of n

til "

L"Xtr:l

fuilnl:" forc..t.'S} muv\!rnent and

n ~ nc· ac :.1 rt'tnf"'lrCs.."Dll"nt \ho :m cxna l.t)Cfor p c f cltd m rrcd 11t rhc borwm J tmng oi ~ lurr·~ !ird ">C;un L r rernfor· m m fnt• U<;e of tJtc gu •t, a ·mb.~ ,f htgher qualm, 11lurr makmg AI~ ) the c ntcr ccnon i \\ cll IT .1dc ru:d:tt~: t h:t:t go~ ~round the l.u:k i th~ n I and UH.dc rncmh th ,_oil r JOimng the from: bJ J t dt nell end

~t]ttcezmg

tt

I IAN I> nt OCK.I n ·nn-: term .tppltcd m rnatl"nnl pnrncd b,• hnud "1tl1 11 \\O-:~dcn or .t wood ~111d metal blo~k I IAN ltNCKI P rite tcnn ·•l'pltnl to lt:md M·hclung al the <>dgt•c of 3 jackt"t l.tpcl vent pttckN ot t rou cr .nus 1lu: ~·xp.:'ctccl Bm~hutg fur top qu.llll) tlalort d dothcs (~u page 2t;) II!\NL1 ROLJ 1 n HIM l11ec:dg~of.t

handkc.:rdurfor orhcr arttdr rollc·d und tJtL..h~d b) band In o1 nccktt(; 1he c ndc: u:~:;: fol ...icd tutder a~-,ut a qu;>tnt>r i Ill h .tnd Stttdh:d h) h.1nd producmg n oft mil off.tbnc ltdd b

&rn:gu1. r sutclh' • found only on h1gh qunlir., nc~kt

GL

'J:ot •

II \1 l)W • n 1 N \\~Well ()J1 .1 lot •Ill 6per.1h d h\ hand ami four I he firu,.;hcd fabm:.. sud1 as a !1o\ccd ur lmmc'>pun h•• . , IITC'gul:umc, th:n t.•nh:mcc tl.. nuth~m•c•t) nddmg ~ har.:tctL"r:.tnd appcJI II RM .Ht m:

)nr

'"Nl.

fU

M'\ N

II \ltNI ~ 1 he iramc on a loum thar ts r.us~d ro 'it'p.tr.uc rile WARJ' fHlm the 1 Ill IN{. prn~> ro .11Im\ th\: slnlldt.• w p.1-..., bct\\CCil tluun There .It'"' .Hil'.t'it tv.o h.trncssc~ un .1 lnnn1 ~lore dabor:nc \W.l\'t); I'('{!Ulrc mnrc hn•nt·~sc• • tiH' c.x:nnpl,· ;t b.r,r.. cy,• lon•n 1C
ll...ruus 1\\ IJ.n Ill\• rradcnwrkot\\lnJicnlll.lh'tl.ll "f1Ull, drcd .Uld \\'(Wr.,!O b) hand hy fltl' cmr~l'I'.S of I Ism·•, nnd I P\\ is nnd ••d11:r ~~l.wJ:. ~)r dw Outer llchnd~" islnnd:; of ~.:-ndanJ. II \1 IICI\\ , . 'Ibd~'· tile fc.nh~n· l1kt.• bow on rlw hat's msJCic.. 1 holdm·~r from rhe :~.ncicm dr.m:otnng rhat mt•d Ill tltP hat tJgJH Oil the hc:~._f ~len'~ hat bo\\S J

•

nr

areal\\a)c; \\Orn ou tht.·lcft ~idcofLhc hnr

a remmd.:r

of the d.tp \\hen till" plume or lr)\ c rokl'll \\ a1> "nm on tlw heart ~l ..lt• for 1(\\ ~. nnJ awH) li·om rhe SWllrJ "ide f(lr .. nfet}

----------------------,\~, Rl ' LI.

nr·

-rrrv~tn:

Cft1thl':' lh11t £1J'C IOOirendy tli"C dcstint'd (0

bctOIJlc old bt)~>n: 1heir tfmc. Toda)' 's pencoch is /OJHOJT01t' 's

j'elllhcr duster. - Hn.>t1hs Brothers

-

lurs \\ nl1 J hu inc o;uJt a l King I d\\ rd \11 ,-Jm brought n b W I o ndnn a ;m nhcrn:nJ\ e fonn;J t '' n h t l <.~tt r popul:mt.cd Ut tl c- 11.)-JO;, b.. Bntnh ~ Tt. gn rn.1n (I ru smmr 1111111 u-r) \ml!Ofl} ldrn (~a p~~~ ' 1 1 Cl

Ungmall ..1 I " 1 ~:n 1 rrlap (;iffi b} thl' prd:cn of bop~ ..1 gc n -raJ dt nJ u t ,f ~ luo t•l > \\ n u falm, n~d~.: m .1 b. ili ' ur i r I l'a\ 1\\o tltrr•.ui.; ufbmh \\ U I nu \\:ARI n t 'th r mstt.:a..l of mtl} one u mg rough t • turs>d .m1 J uurl in :.utung Jac:kc•tmg, and othrr "Pf n. c: r I IOP\AC:l

lNG

J IOl "ND.c> I Ol.lTJI UHCJ;. \ mrdmm t • cb .J p:ttte.nt \\JUl JDggcd eJg ., rt 'lt"mhl111g th 1 e ol dug rootl1 and 1s not pl"rfcul) quar£< (St't' 1:~g\: 1 , I it Dl.lll RS TJf I n .\ fO\\ n 111 'orl ~urc [ ngl .d rlt.:l 1 tlh• cemer of th~ 1 cncr Brirt"Sh \\it.r'\too h un mdu'>r 'l

doul fe- brc.~ctt.od. \H t. I n ou tcrro::~r 111 ''hire or v1T whnt.• "uh m r thn ~: \\ sdc colortul huriz
II UN rIll G REJ. N A deep o;hru:fc ui green v. J th L1

II EM. The llnish pru,fuccd hy turning b:.1d. rhe r
III JUUNGIJO.Nr A ribbed rwill \\e;l\t' in \\hll·h ;m cqualmnnb\.'r ,,f rhrcads ~l.nH right and kft to 1{'1'111 .1 :tigt..;tg p.llt 1't'J1 :>imibr t.l rha1 Ll(a fish\ skdt:t,~n (Nc1rr h J\ 1111.: nc:m lluriug). A puptil.t r d"·~•gn tor clmhing ~111d ac~·co;soril's (Sa Bubb) ~horr p.1gc I ~.:t)

J IJ~...II tusr. Su H.I'-'L fipurc with ...houldcrs "hu~c squ::t I'Cih'ss 1S greater than the norm. J II Gil 'iHOUlnt It\, ,\

ll&GJ 1- W...,\ n R I' \Nl s Jlams th:u ~ltghtlr :1bm c t ht: ankles

r~••ch

on I) tu :t pmnt

fa•·m:1l luuking snfr felt h.u \\ nh u t •• percJ crm\ n .md :t rollcA.~ boun~l edge.· bnm In hla.:-k nr d.trk blue 11111.1) b~..· \\l)rn \\ith .1 dinnl r j:tckct m llllJJtl. \

nt

}ello\\ •~h c.ru.t

Ill.: NUNC.. l'lNI-i. Nut m:tuall~ pml. but ':iUftt:nh Jr of !\C;trlcl <. )rigmalf) all [ng!.'!.h huuung raghb b(•longed ao rhe kmg nnd those t:akmg p rt 111 a hum h:1d ro W(:;lf the kmg\ lwC'n \\Inch \\a.! '-•1rlct I 1e .lllthcHtJC huntmg piuk dn· '" &ud tu t: lffit: fr.om n p o;tc.· 111.ule up of malt en nus bcctiD. mtxed \\ tth tm tn aad

IN!.,.\ 1 :s ·rh'-' t!\'lr:J cloth lei1 m $c.:tm "Ju, h en.thlt: e11fnr.gcmt.'nt. ornettnw' ailed nmlt'tt~

I ~st A 'I\I ., he distilnce m mclk~ from tht" aot h i~t forL w the bl1ttom oft he t rous~rs \L\:0 cant on a glon· ti1Jt i~ sewn ia!tidc out IN -uu: TlK' foundnuon

llfAD Ft1ltWARD. \Vht.•n a human figure\ head i'} earned tom .trd slighd) fmu1 the normal Tlu~ 11'-'tltlllr require.:; an .Jit('r:nion llf "horrenmg the p(k!!t's colbr :tnd :t 'lighr incrca~e 111 ils bJck li>ngth

1ll)

1,1th~.: t

Jf the ~h~.•c a p1ccc ofle: the:r

ben' ecn one L~nth :md •me L\ utth ot n ntch tlud cut to conform cxnctl) ff' the 1zr- and lupc ot thL bouom of the of th~ "hoc .\)o;<1 th p.m t the !
LA.,,.

I "'~1"1!1' The bnd2c mer the tnp .of the foot

rrotn the )ralt6111 rerm for rnt~ntart. In umg "utl:t) .. !\ knmcd d!'"'S" Lhat g•w the cffi•l.f oflx mg inlntd in rhc l~httcwttltttl> p:mern m '01tdcoiLlrs, [ S 1A R I !!t.

.'thO\\ Ill~ Oil ~_-loth ,}Jl!:~ or tJn• iabnc

doth llf ntJh.'ll.tf o; \\'11 her" 'Cll rh btx-h r~bric cl:tgannou and the expa,t..-d lmut~ utstdt• • "' 'L h _; fi,r sulfnCS! "hnpc or I 110\ ant1. ·w .1 t e pllYil' w m:u~n:tf nm I oftell WP\ J Dr al \\\')OJ hJcnd f~und instdr the.' ~tndopc ofthl' ric ro £1'C ll bulk .and i)nru~ IN 1 1 IU LNT ,'\G. A

INTF:RLOC~

tcnn appherl u1 ad "t'h kmncd t bn produ\:·cd on :1 circular 1ulllung mnduur. lmcJ "nh ,\

long :md short n~"':dlc:.

.

~..·mbnd wht ~ Jt I dut

1:--.1\ E.RJ.;I. s \

H.mn

in nonlm

.t

n:uue j,. a s.~ngiC"" brea.o;u:d. ~IC'\.~C~ (o:lt '\: Ut pc.a cd r not du-d lapel .md .m :u~ht•d Collpc '-':~.t ndm!! Tl' thl" c1 bt,-.w,; n prmci:uon LO the ann!> .. n.t upprr ~d In

t\\~'\.>th u '' J a fn\nnh: of thl• \ ICtnri.tn tr:n clcr In Lbrk omtOilfh fubnL"' n mct.lmorphe.~c~ uao nn dL·gant

as Pun,unu h:u' i\1-o, n bro:td bnrmned pbntcr f. ~t}lt"

of hat

t~nJUl at.tt

I ilrc the DEER: T \t.kfR. tt b .d o po...-ryphall .lSSOCJ:u~.:d '' ntt h.:rlock llolrnc

l:-o\ tR1 fD rLL>\f A pll".tt \\ith fullnt

ll\'1 In \ n:trru\\ .-.lumldcrcJ smglt• brcao;u:d J.ad.ct wnh .1 four bunon fium .1nd snug iimng paut an) garml'nr or dressing St) lc tending m p.arod) b)

on tht: mcotd~

du: m~n:e of 1 ho.x pl .. at (S« G fitzp.unck s brcoJ.s! pock<'! pag~ ro-)

C\::Jt'''Cr.ltlon the In• lc::tguc lntlk. oc~

IRilli'>C~\..E.

The rmrupb or rctlc.:no.n of nutltJpk• ~..·nl,u .mmnl-d b\ u.Jng .t \.lncn of ...ol..>r.i m the " \ R I' .mJ 11 u 1NG 1,.1f a fabnc (~'I' Gnl'} Cbopcr\ uc page ~ S)

buckk·l:t tcncr or clnstic ,jd~ for '•' cnr c!ipt'C'I31l) "ah

l r M .. L r 1\Jtothcr rcnn f(,r t\mntcn\ naturnl,ft utdcr f.!shron L,rc:u 1li)O, .t:. popul:m1.~d b) Bmt.,ks 1\rother~ Jnd ftmntf un . \ mcri.;.a '.s h'} L.:ague college

li·om knc\.' ttl .mklc. llr.;t ~l'l'll 111 f:11gl:tml wltc>ro.: 1 her ''err· ;t~'propt·tat~J frmH the: :ji .HL' o( Jv~l hptt r. In,Ita whnsl: loc.1IS' J:n ured rhcm over tlu.· snJ;'lrl('J:. but more e rrort (()Jl'ollrning, brt!£'chc.... nnJ r~ li.!".ltrtl k";lt her ri.lmg hom~. (~r·~ r.Jgc: 4. uppt:-r nglu picrum)

Jomr PUR. BOOT

lc:HH!I'UR\ {
lllll'h'\\

~mpu cS \

hangmg nude\\ lthcmr l'L[AT' 31 f11t: WAISTU \

D

I \.SllT ()ngtn.tlh a ruffie on the bo~om t'f a m:lll·, Jun .1 nf oi ned.:l\t:ar for fommhn·ar "tth n nt:db.md nnd ruffic., hclo'\ u amcd .Ifit:r joq:pb ~ l:tril' Jacquard n r rcndmun bom an 1~'OilS. \\-ho In 1~01, imcntcd .1 lonm th It u;;.....J punL-h~d CJrd-: ro \\t.~a\e ~mcrn" 10 dmh pul n 111\'ltcd lum w P:lns ttl detllllll.:otr:'ltr.: it. and b) t •)6 the:- I "'tn \\.tS p;arcntcd To&n laCC}uard h .1 rcrm J to Jcsai~ m} mottf p&Jttcm or inmcarclrwovcn

h

Q.l o\RO

I:Wnc: lrom rnpt·~m ;Ind brocade to cl.unn ..k .md knn~

q.)

In P 1rl't.: K~. 1ong ri,ling truuscr.s t1:u"·d owr 1he lup.s nnd

h

kmd ..,f ~mr in whtch rhe j:~t:kcr h.t~ n..Hur.tl \\ tddt houldt rs '" rnughr h:mgmg.•tn,l h.lS .t LL.!Dtl'r n:m Tnt.• trou.:oers .UI.' piJin rrom .md qraiglll ..

.\ lo~ ll'ath,·r bont "Hit a strap and

Klr ~KJ· t\ llmdi- UrJu \\Ord mt·.aning Mdu~q .. or '\:.mh-(olt,rcd .. Th~ firs! khak1 (11lor~d dnth \\J."i so.tkcd in mud and trNlc:,i ,lrr Khaki h::t:. conw to refer ro bro\\ 11 £'''11.·'' and oll\ t: t1m~. \\ hach 1mlir ..1~ ior~cs h,t\e ltntnd ucoc-fulln reducing\ ''ihilit) .tg.uno:t ground and folt.tgc lu the nmt.•[cemh ccntun. the Brrttsh tn I ndt•l "ore rhe firsr khaki u111fnrms.

K1LTII •\ sh.m I tougue of iflllgcd lc.1t hcrthnt L'- drnpt·d c.wcr rhc ino;rcp ,,rJ shoe, cmering tltt•lacc." :md t1'Cict

wadc-wid!h twckuc dwl bccum"· hbllJ(wahk· in the :o.i).;tics th:lllh LO ;\Jidud Ftsh l'h<.' hu, a of the f.1nH'~u~ Jt-nm n rrcct ~lunmJkt·r tn l.undon, Titrnbull aud Ass\:'r. Th~ ~LI~.'llClllJ' "hl't her k:IPI'I.n. A

I

l\M \H "\ HORn ',honsen,lmg.+u nm.l dugh. shorter rhan nl:HMUfJA (,H('RT::t ~mncd fmt· the sn·lc ,,j •liNts • (! un I on the tslJnJ of ltm:.uca m rhl' 19.!0'1

J\

s(\

nc.:k\1-t..'.tr fobnc \\110 an arr
I'( \

fi nncd b) ltght mcd1um and dnrk haclcs "rn n

I r

IF \~ 1\ ~fT \ \\.11 t length Jac.k<'f at den rm or otltcr n 11l tton \\lth p;aocl sut-chmg and chest bctght P tLh pOd> 1$_

JrR"l 1

r 11 \. kmucd f.tbri.: made from h-'p\ rll:u tnt nne ...It 111 unc dtrl.s..'"t"ton \\ tth the result that the [ hnL fu, 1 pp r.mrc un the i'.!~::...: ~ldl· .md a\\ !toll} dtfli r m rtt· n the rc' <-'T e 'itdc m.1dC' of wool cotton, 'IT hi nd offtbc.·rs: for s!un~ c;portswcar: :tth:l fl

mdcN ·ar h dcnn• n" name from lhc ,,.f:tnd C~fJcr~cy h n.· .ulu Jar t\\nrt: ~t''lttnnnadcoftltt~ inbnc Sa 8E'i{i~f rf'(' In tJI\: f rem:h jrttr. lO ltu,lt ti1rth ut tn throw ut Th\! tnrlor ~ \\urd "tctrtng tnl .ut t b~.: 1d t'T prpc dat h t r otltcr tn:.ttci'J.J! .n r ·J.. 1~ m h \\ln,g th Jrt.>dgc Jct:rmg.'l m.l) l•t pi l,u H p \\t"ff olt UOtn tf pu.:-kcr mouth~ \Vlw:n I' d' n •th td dtt' p tcr 1'1 t~rmcd d uhl h m1 1r duubk JCttcJ (St·~ p.tgc.· 8b )

Jf·n f

•

m

}1 ,, t R El r r ' \ n.un gt .. '11 bz t;ulur t(l thr.hu n pl;a l d u 1d th• l.dt fl1n.:p;.trt ol a man

I br: ~ted

.u r w;u tcn.1r o .t t , keep tlu: J rtf.'.Jth r p fmm ~..imppmg d v.m,Jrd rJ'1J\ :\

f luc

1

n n m 1 trt ··ut ~ palm1tl•.e rrcc th I{ .t\c IJ fth d tt tre pl.utcJ rnt , h 1t In \\ n

•

dJc moniker came from ~ l r. F1:~h\ n:tme nr rhc tn!" ~ltapr! 1 ' \ ltkh rl'"l'tnblcd a "ktppct·" ll;,h K.NI E "1

ht• knn· mca~urerncrtt llf,l rrou::;er.. wht h 1.

<1Ch'fl11ll1Cd U) hah utg Its i n'>eam and dtt'll mc.t ~tt rmg

t\m m\;h.:s nbuv<' rhc resulung fold lwe KNICKER~ K.NICKLIUH.)CI...l~R •

Loose p.mtc: dr.ap~d met the knee .md fa rcncd \\ tth :a band :md bu"l.le nbo\c dt~..• ~al( onginallr wt'm tor golf and then nthcr "ports 111~ n:unc cClm~ from D&cdnch Kmckcrbt"Ck,•r ficriuous-:lUthorof \I IiS1n'1 ~(l\'n" York (actual!~ \Hilh:n b) \:\a.~hHlgtoll I rnng) rJu, rour<. arc- lull CUt ~Uli\;ker; t h31 pnudll'd fo11r inches bdol\ the knee· plus rwns .md plu · c•glu~ were Jcs~·nhC'd ..IC('ordlllgl} ~"il'r J).lgc u6) l..A LO~ n STI 1Ct 1 \ cross w~:k ron:>t run it'll" u h :thcnmtc plnln Jt.:n:e) cour.:.(·~ prc.duc~d uu J fine cut tnnchine Used prun ml~ fm kntt spoq \I11T't ni mCI\l!rll'('d ctlrton )'nrn

I AMn 'i \\~.'(ll The mrnen.tlmndl' of!Jbcr ~horn

li •m l.tmb.. np to

monrh!' old 1 ht' fiht rs ,IJ"C' ,oft .tud h.t\C "Upcrwr spmnutg prf'pcruc-. L-\PLL I h~

,

H'll

f.1cmg oi :t J:t...kct ur coat tnmt th.tt p.trl<..'l

1ackct or rn;u front JOllied\\ tth tl1c coiiJr th.rt '"\\Urn turned I a~k

;1

1 \I'PUI JAM \ wclkd clrulhcpnmotm~rd t·un mad b) pte \ltlg tfu: C.:Jnl to 00(' ..Ide lb ' " 0 l dgero I tng l.:tppcd m •r t ..tclt other .111d firusltl•d btt .1 row of l 1p tu"h··., of' tr} rng \\ idth ~\\ u cn:het b) Imud ur nu lunc If tl1c bp c.:.un ts ldr op~n and nm sut h£'\i UOWil Us C.11Jr.: ._j lll .. Opt.'ll lap t! IIH J'Jw, sc.ltn J f!Ufing

Gtv

'i

rt·n~h·t the odd ).iCkct ur tY•Juscr mOri! ~prJrf) (See llt"•n11 FonJn, page 106. I tumphrt1 Bogan p~gc 1~0)

L1\Sl A lorm of Wc)Od or metal !)luped likt.- 01 rOOt 0\ er \\luch a <:hoc I" f-as.hioncd In llESJ'O~l :;hocma.bng. cl pJirofindtvtdualln'>LS 1s hand carved b} a :o.pccialla!tt m.1kcr from bl·ech, maple. or bc.am wood into a prectscl) comour\.d f~lt:..(umlc of the Ot\rotm·r :t ftact protnlSlOllS, indl·ntations and nil The utlc chm:cn for tlw book\\ rut en on clw lift.: of john Lobh tile lcgcndJf) t .ugl•sh bonnnaki~.r hears 3 pun 1111~ l.iUt Onnr.s.l rrst l AWr, Origiu:.t.ll) fr\)lll tht! dry C,ll Lton. r ranee :t

hr dtc:" dcrg}' .,,It" prcscHt d.t)' bwn is n ligluwl.light nm'''' ut Imen fitbli\.

J:1brJC USCd ({ll gntllll'IJI:S WOrn

) Iu:s l.l'H.• ur:~I\V

uf t hc- b~u~r gmdc, usu.1!1) mn~ic of ~·ombl!d Ntmn prn :llld gi\'CII a pol[•;Ju~cl ..-;urfac~.·

of the nmtholt foncnn1ation ::and mam-u\er It il.: madt• from D St•fr fleece..: fabru: nngmoo~ung tn Aur.ma ( narm sho\\er--proof ltghtY.'CJglu fo~t grc n lodt..'tl doth \\om b) pummcn fmmrhc 1\ 1 f. r e::~ra for

walking. shooung ;;mJ dmlllg, LONUO~ SU.Hl N~

fhe bntJkng(; ofcl th II tfu r Lid uater method in ordcrm pmcm shnnb,ge nd re;Idt m b em up. 11u.· diJ doth to bt' ~hruJJ.l. 1 Jilld~:t.i bcm L"en an upper and low~r Ia} rr of' ~ dath a.hrn dncd naturall} Jlnd n.fu:rward prc~ti ln LalJ ll)Jr; ultr PQ\\cr 011tgmall) a01o:rblureclorll\,';;lf\" md \\flU London mcrchanq; m be submmcd ID-.l cnrm trm mcrhod of "hrinb~ e:ontro1 NOVo .uJ:n thr t~hmquc 1 :l(tplac•d u~>ualh· at the :.<.>at of prothJL n( n hur rhc u nn

London £hrunk" rc.m:ttu;; a widd) accs.•pu;d o;mndatd

LoNe.

Lf. :;:o.~ahiNG. Set• 1'UXEDO.

fRONT llAI.ANCF An excei's ofiC"ngth m

riw

from b;~lancc ofgamtem ~u.sc!. gannent to nppc;u- full

Ll n •\ Sl'lll i.uu om a tic mac him· LhaL f\.'pr•ld uco.s hnnd sltp•stitching in ncd:nt! mnnufacnarl!

on clothes \mm by 'to.~opmg figure

lJGNE;

Unir of I r('nch origin. equal ro 1 11 in<"h, used u1 mc.t:-uring d!l" width of hat b:.mds an"l bindings ufhats.

LoN& NfCK. A neddu11.: dun rcquarc placement of collar (Sr.i" page 125 )

LINE.; The swnd:ud l~lr me.tsudng buttons; the t:\'lclfth

hm rollar set lu\\ 111 fmnt \\ith point~ four inchr long and adt:quat..: fullne5!> 1:

p:trt of an md1. (.S~·calm LJGNt )

<11

fronr -cr.ens:c edge "hen buttoned. :1. dcfca common ~

luglu.•r

LONu-nOLL C:OIJ..I\Il A.

permit 3 rolled effect

Lt NE:N. A strong. lustrou~ rarn or lnbric oi smoothsuri.tcL'U llax f.1.brk:. thaL ,-.;·nnl:h.!!'i casilr Tht.: fiber is actually llax. Menri01wd in the Bible, linen was \\0\l?rt tnL•f(' than four tlll>liS:tnd years ng~o1

l Ol'll' 1 NG: The hand fru;tC"ning of S\\t"atcr !tcatnl; rn high qU!l.liq :>\\t:atcrs; al-a .doni! ou a lo p111g lllilt'htnc m simul.ne n handmade :1ppear.mcr.

I.ININGS (~110r:) UscJ to

LOUNGf :-.UfT• ·n1e e.u'l} n:Jml' giH~n ro :.t ACJ

rL'inforcc ;md ;tb:.orb pt!r<:pil':Hi~n. afford ~1 smooth fit w rhl~ in~1dc of tlw ~hoe .md 11.J hdp 11 rctam tts shape. MaLcrials Cor linings :He lenrher on all bett~,;r grade~ of fchHWc.lr.

or

l.l:-:I{.S-M-IH- l.lNK.S. The

term <1pplied 10 ;t r:mern purl or t:'lllC} -knirring sritdk·s produccll on n "J'l'l in I

mndtinc known a:\ alinks-and-linb machine th:lt knit" \'enically r:uhcr rhan horizonrallr. This i~ the stitch used fN alpac.r golf-rypc ~\\L'nt\!r:s (s,·,· alpacn \'CSL. page 163) LISU · \ fincqualiry of riglulr twil.ted.long swpk

couon )r:trn that is passed near a ga:- ll:unc tL) rcrnll' c tht> fu:t.z and gin• it a sleek .!'urfac~. Original!) IISl'd m hosicl)~ now nscd for fin(' knit ~him•. lr i!'i "o ca~lt:>d bcc;m~e it W'~1s fina made in Lisle (now I.Jilc). I ranee. A brrmd n:1me of a mocc.1~in -!o.t)'lc ~lip · on shoe \\'it h a broaclllar heel registered Llr Ncul<"mll "hops, Inc (sc,, p:tgc .2tl3) LOAr'JJR:

'Tht! oli\'c grt:I.'JI of the Au~trian "l}·rol. which urig&n:ul!d in the sixrct·nrh cunwry Tlw p~o•n:.!lllt .. \\IHl first m.1dc t hi:- grt.:en ::.IMdc of doth in dw . m•lllnt:tiuous Jist net \\ere c~llt:J Lodl·rc r.:-o, lnomr ng the materml from the rough and oil)' won! of the arc:t•!\ mountain sh~;cp. Bl.'ncr lod~n doth t'frcn ha~ some c.1md hair tn it and i!' \\"atet prol'lf wirlh.mt being treah:d chemi~-:.'llly. l!)DEN!

1unrN c0 T. 1 he f.·l\oritl! co:1t of tltl~ Eump~an "h') League." A mglc hrc:t!-Leti co:tt with a butmwthro11gh front~ milit.try
I.e IT

with siuglc- ()f dotthle-brcasrcd J:~d:et sn soft f.1imc for busines~

wear.

I.OVAT. 1:tmL·d a(tt"r Lord.l.O\dl of~otlnnd who prd.~:rrcu blend~ ofhaz) blue soft grec.n nd t.1n and

gtn}. sugg~.-'~"'Ting du= lh·athiTCd mne
~1ACCLI.:<:f IEl.D Sa pages

14- 49

rype ofhe.a\l napped\\ JoJ bbnl:cr m big ~rripcs orchccb used 1.0 bancnnth du: .ttn~ fo.tACI\:INAW' A

ArnC'rk:m lndiau" around Fon Mndcin2\\ • hdugan ·nll· bJ.ml.:ct. m:uainl was al. o turned mro coat for lumbt·r[ach. Tl1e ryptcal cont was dC'nblc br~a.,tLod lit a ilng~o·nip length" ith shawl ~oll.u :md an arounJ bdt that bcc4tmc knmHt.ts tlu~ ... M:rdnn:m

cl!

~lACK!!'-~ 0~11 The tertn U~('d rn tnglnnd tNln, fir raincoar~ called a ...Mac -for bhon Ycaa ago it \\.1'1 • term o[ten applied to rul) • hm~. blad: \\Jtt>rprouf rain.::o:~r ln r823. Chadt:S Ma•lammh • .> \;l.tS!!OV. .:-hcmiSt, patented :t medwd ofoondntg nw~r he tween two l:t) crs ofcloth to m.Wt· th fim \\-::ttC'rp.rooff~bm:

\~ A HA I I LR \ phro..q:o t1~t ..pp}Jt-d 111 l ';l r.n \\ rlli.un I Ie.un MIHL'r. a f;unoul' Engh.h hanL£·" h o;uffcrcd UJtsrrolc and \\em ll1911!' tls. r bemg c.:trried bareheaded through the street!. of l ondnn on h~ dr..-~ttlln 10 the I Jowe ~)f Gammon$ \lAD

~----

"\pring'' '" tl1c "Sua l.1bnrs l!<•tcfi.,ld J{r)lph L1un•n , ...181! 9) )

I hl' fibrous I'Ut fnc~; g•\cn to .1 dcnh 111 ilmshmg sud! liS n:wncl .md doeskin . . . urf.'l.::c flbl r:. an: ral ..ed U) n'hll\ mg t.."'fllllden; C(\\ crcd \\1Ul metal poults or t<.•a.;cd burrr. Nl\1'

AI'I'INv $u 1\Rl. ')IIIN{.

ofhc.I\ h'J cuu\tru~IUU cmplo) mg M.'H·r.tl colors to nchtc\·t.> n pl'bblcd ciT~ct ll"t'd 111 llt'Ck\\Car: Tlw word is I r\!nch .md n11.:.ans .. bf:'ll J l.!d " NAl I J

D1u: H

1 ~~

M

NA'I't

11\'

\ b;~skct wcaH'

It''

'llhJI ll)I: R Stt I\TJ llA .~n.•md P·•~c ~CJ

\\\.. ) Ull t • \ ..

\\t1rn

1f1

tbc Hriu-.h Nav). dtis d>lur IS

N~

!\ kt\ut or t .. ngl m \ m pbn t: 1b J ..mt incrcllo.c-s or cl~cre-a~t."S uf tt:n ton dunnb the f lfl proc.~.~ nubbc:d \.lm gtn• n trri"gular u-nt rc H

labnc

f

bUrt~ ·t

OJk~JdJI. Ongmall\ .'l~mtem m :i "-ttrpr r b ~com h ftihc:mum anh ~\c-r.tl oo:umgs c. f cruJc lmo;ct d ml 1bda} a r.1mcoar m.:~dc t u ' n (abrrr pmc\!s~rl \\+JUJ ro;mng; uf otl ( u LILkJ 1 ) 01 1\ E A

c~

1

sf•ft tone ofgrttn \\"Jth ... hght \ 11 \\ h

It 1:~ that ot an unnpt; o] n c

J-rcuch rerm (rnl'dtuug" Judo\ 1 pphed tQ :t fabm· dted unHJhn r11 a gr..1danon llf h:otde ("irr R.1nduJph :1\cau's nt:, pagt! tfl) ( 'M lHU. \

A ro!l3fl.t;tbl, ~ugh h..1t "\\Jth a firm ~url ~ brim fCJr f~mnal C\'~uing" L..-tr cmcrrd \\Hh Jull \IU ,r )l't.;IV. !tAT

\ m uall) black Nt:.A 1 .\ Tt'ltnuseJ in tht! nedml~ar rr:tdi.! fo1 rdernng to a cO•l~,·r\,ltiH' tic p.mern \\ irh =-m.1llrcgular flgurnuon ~'re page 1 )~)

otlu·r matd"i:tl

NH ~H \ND 'H llt:r A :.hirt \\ ith a narrow bnnd ctrdmg

01'11 tA 1 h._. hope of.t I'AN'AMA

the neck and buttonhole... at tht• end~ d~~~igncd w be :llt=trhcd LO .1 ~t>p~ll":llC Cl"">il:tr.

OJ'LRA l'CMI'

5o· pagt

:!)I

rotht:r tra\\ Jut wHh a full crown and a ndgt' t"~tcndmg front .fi nr r b:td (St't pageJ8!) OfTurl.tsh ongm . tt·~-rured d~ ~h \\ '' n f.1hric of r.t1s.cd crusswt'>C 11ru m:.tdl" aU· r mh~r i.1hnc., u!'icd for nccl.wt>arand form.Jh,t:.Jr 6 mgs

bwttcc.l or dr:ape~l in :.1 unt fa.•d11on ar.1und t h\1u~ck usuallr madt· ofcoth>n. silk Imen. or n wool- blend (Su· p.1g~ I6tJ)

01 TOM!\ 4

N1 CKI RTII:

One ofr\\0.3CC'-"Jll000l tpl!ltl n for 1he "e1p,ln of.a clorh It ~;hnuld r~;~lh r ad a" ·-.)unce!l pt.!r lmcar ..rtrd... nnt pt•r c;qu;rre ;wJ

J:C h:ERCH II

r \

squ:'lrl."

(\ .~qunrt·

folded and ~..lr.Jpcd around

the neck" ith the cuds Lied in :1 rot..:n- JN IIAN!l or otlwr knN ;1J1d worn with ~n npen mxkl·d ... pun shin It '' usual I) m.td'-· of cotton. <>ilk linen. or a wrml· bf,~nd (.Set• p.tgc 169)

nr

OUNc fS I'I:R ''t:ARD

Ou rstAM The t:rr•tt:.t:r lr..:ngth nwASurtmlltt r 1('n ir,Jm t h<' top uf dt~ wJmbnnd to the trouser b,ltturn

\Vnrn1 outer gartnl-·nt frt ~mgl

NrcK'JII : Tlw sL:ttJdard term tt!ied (M male n('ck\H!:tr

0\'1 RCOAT·

im111 ,unuud 1840 nnwnrd. ~upcr.seding dlf: word "ncckdl'l h.-li.,fo or more thid:ncs:.~~ of 1:1brk 't'\\'11 in :1 shaped scar( or band l~"'r w<>a r unJcr r ht• n >II a r fold or 4r'Onnd the- llt..X:k and knorrcd iu fr~.mr .

~1ouble hn~stt'd 't} le lw;~' ll r

than.1 topcoat Tht coat c:1n be rmccd b:1.d: ro the 'iC\ cntcemh C<'ntUJl "hen ancu:nt B1iwn mndedo wtth a ptc.:c• crf,, I doth Lhnt doubled a.<> .1 mantle b) d;J} and a blanket b, rught

~ EH RU JAC~'"ET· .1\ ~ingle~brc::t~tcd

jnckcr oi shapelr lines buuon!.'J high ro a --mnding-balld r~.lllnr, named lor lnd m's former prim.: mini:.tcr Jnwall.lrlal Nehru.

0\•ERJ'l.A m A pattern m \\ ruL"h il block hgurc rhuJ u superimpn"c.d upon a :muller pl:ud r othc:r npe of de-ign (S« l uct:mo B:~rber.J J:trkct I~St"-)

NILTIJ{J\1.:. Tht.• tc.nn applied to color that mm.tins none ol rlw primary colorl' l"nd) ed lint!n ;, on~

OXFORD UAG

c:<.Jmpk· J \~KL:'r:An informal jot..""k,:t wtth ;1 bliX plc-nr at eac:h sid~, in irom. yoked. tWQ 1>imililr bux plt·:tr" in b:~ck. and .111 all :tround hdt Cnnsiden·d the ilr~t "rnrt t

Htt 01 ~

1:1l·kcr

nrsr populari7.cd b) l oudonl'l~ JlS: :t c:t~11nl shoa. rhi, fm•IWL'~1rw:b lntcradoptt•d h} 'isrling ~lllL'rtl::tu~ in tht.· nud~thlrtic .... ·rwo tnot.h·ls bcr:HJW pllpubr a sli p-cm mtlCt.oL"iu we ca:;ua.l t h.11 '' .ts t:".1llcd .. ,, 1 f J UNS ":md :t lac.l.'~.l rnodd "uh ;1 <.pliL, Ioc dc . . ign and morC.J'illl fronr 1hat ~t!.:amc kntn\ 11 3, the Norwcw:m. Origin;~lly; NLlrwcgian ~hoc:. were h:md sewn hr Norwegian i'ishcrm:ul~.luring thl!tr off ~t·ac:;on {Sre pngc .: w.l) NonwrrJI

\N;

'tl'p cullar: a la~wl ~t} lc fi,r s1ngle brcasred coats fcarunng an ;~nglc b.:tpcd' pt:ning ur step cffcn "at the puint when~ the collar of :1 jilckct or com n•cct <; Lhc l:tpd (S~t! p:li!~ ~1. hottom) Nl ')"J'CH l.AI'f L

t1r

In n::t4-"lJOJl pinq the dmtnptpt:

Edw;~nl1am 0-d~ niL nt\t.Nr> Mudcnt '' idenccl thL"'1r trou;;cr lcp- ~o tlmt W£'\ resembled a patr of deph.nnt s legs :\ltltt~ugh tlu·

tmuser leg'' orn b,

f.1shiun for'"Oxfor-d ha!!- grnduall) Jtl'd nut lhi."' "l~ '' orn for ..omC' wnc on the golf courM farcnmt..nl .and prl!hahh pbFd a roll! in the C"\ nm..tl dCJill!oC of plllli fin1rs m f:a\ 01 ni LrolL~~s fm golf (~r:r J red 6uch:anJn p:tgl'

112)

OxfORD N.11ncd tun.J ford lJm cNltl dIn'' .. h" with t\', ormo1-c 11et. of <1lllt;"'i .. ~~,r l01c:~ mJdc Ill I ~l JH,l t..lllR. or Gl u 1 r. "'} t~ (~c p.tgt" 191} \I ,, >1 r1un or bn'ikCt \\ l-•a\•c .shirung 211 OlltoJJ faro rn•Ju, l!'({ b; rlt•m1'h wc;aer.' "\\ hn h.1d nugr.atdd tl lnglan.:l t Ilu: umc of thL: re' oc.arion of d1l· Ed1ct ,f ';tnl tn lhS~ 1 he cloth ~imuLrres:. l} JX' ofb;.t!'let \h:
t-:.r1 h'R.n .\ J.rrk gtm MlJ.Jl of c~Jlun·ift d~d b) t.Ung o.;:O un fU' 'pPrttt.; .. nfblr t~ht-d \\ l11tt..• ~ S" tl• 1:; p ·nr) aud hlJ I. '-lh·d '\ oul<> ('lS t.• :-- ·r'" m) •\ tgl ft. r Elf.! "~ gn ...·n u.tnk: l•l l..Imbndgr:: h\ \\.1\ t dJ ua ~Ur
tl 1r th

mn\ll• uf .1 lrghNctgln m.1lt; n.tl

wlors fL..tmbndgt: .m laf!IH (b <'l "hal..: tf 1 .. "f\. h.tnrd ..trl: J.ul {hlue) ( • tht.· I[ f b • g;m.·f-.fd) ur &h"mt}

lll nR \hn

fsth.·'iiM.k

PHJ t

I

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1 I

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arJtctad~ f

MI

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11

ttddltJOtl.IJ! ru~.. ,- of tabu.: {lf

hl J;l\.(' or fl\ I

p.trU~:UIJr m.tpt:•

IJh; h

tO

p:trt'i •'lf •l

k t uu.-nr

P\J

\n mrh...ttt" :tlJo,crdcsrgn '!>uggr.ung .1 Hrlm~ pmt" "lltll pe~trc.·f'n \\(1\ en or pnrucd r mHm thr pan em~ of \Hlulc.·n "'h.m Is m.tdl· ;n l

l

lor I

d.md (the hl\\n so n.tma.'li m \ tt"b,n:m h r at t.._ '"" tan produa) 1 h ·..:c 'cLlrtt.'h "h.m 1<. "' n an tum dd.tpt.I%1 lJh I .:-a-;It me.: re h.J\\ ~ oi l r ur1 Jcn mon .-.ngmalh m.t.lc tn J.:ashrmr: lnc.ha In rh !Jt Nlt.h thl" pat.~ill' '"'-1 .1d.tptcd a pnnt Jr. "S' ... tor nll."tl n~: ·fmc 1r ( u twck.nc pagt 3q) o\J \ '\!' r he I·~ ntfl" lccnrh '"I.."'Cnlu.n repl.lC('Il)CJit ,r d u gln·durr ill>Utt Cl.lJN:.cing ,,f.t butrun front or

pt!flm ·r 1 rp ~ uh a Jr: JW tn"!! t~ rl.tsnc \\ us rband f 1u l m td ufcuu 'lit. sail ur other t:il.mi:< prim.ml) titr t~ Ill ~hut .11 'fitr {,1uttgmg J he \'-'prd 1 tJf llmJr nrtg10 e.r:; of dtL; BmJ'h ILJ r~t r Br ~ H lln U \ bmnd ufd •tit rt!~t~rcr~J h I I lm 1k 1 h ( mpanl Ongut :dl} a "11tnn1L'r uftnt! fTbJJ rrJI r.angmg au \'>I. aghr fnun- tet '8 ount.C!o n p :tut '' \\ th ..tcut«nJ \\,\Jtf' :lfld MI..)H\rR

rnrs " '~"rtf

I

\

umnu:r r,;uttJng rn:.trcnal tlt.tt lUOCco; m J pl.un "'-':l\l ,,r1gmnfl~

m ~ t~ r \\ trh • rt ~n \\ . r

r

I\

1

\' itr5t\ d f ll U rh~ '-utt l.tbn,· ... g.tft>h ld )

u\

\ltP .tnd

M

(St't

\ r r-c f I nfJttl'd ,lJJ I umh.tpt:J 'itr.m

h"ugnl b o~tltH"' JnU \ ~lil'IT'i tu the pun of I n&t J (t ~ It ud plur I f( •m Alu (f of the long f 'L fl'' F It 'Jutlf.l) pi 11 (lt~'J·I£ 1r th••nJd ' ru fs n tm I 1 Lcu1Jnr 1( )ngtn.tttllg 111 f u.tclor t nhu " l F'i: ru rJ c.• r l\\ nu• ri.d ,!oc.. not u nh l m I an 01 bur I Jn.lm.Jt t.u~· tc.. I rhL l•:.~u .mtf got

Ju

hrr.t

hr ·r\.'IIIt

rd p.ntt I h< rt ltr \ Jnt.JI• J 1r ' u l Jnt.tf nr dura r n \\ ~ lr.g - n. rm~ I •l J pr d n } 1 lng_Jn m l" · t Jm ffnm l~.J ~ n

'I

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r

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in

P\..., J II

n au d t

11 \ r i •t

\ 'Cl'} p~lt· ton,· uf .1 c(•lor

pnd.d llllldl' b\ Utrhtng J pn:cr of Ill 41J:!C H6) JJ\ Tr 11 It£ H 11.1 I

IIL-.tt•ft'~hrtc

I hr rorUJ applr"1 to J t:\h} uuttnn r-L.r "ttlt d1e lo\\l!r burnm plt.cnl tbu\C till' \qtsliJII~' JnJ th_ uppcdt rtt!Jn ct Jngh \\\.ln~ b\ th~ hor~t'\ !OCI I th Jq1l o;; (&l p.tg \4) (ll ...

\ IJ,~ ~fl•J !.l'Jl dl~lh:d frorn tht• [ l;unu pJrk 1

llri!!tu.tll~ n \\ md bn·al.t·r ltl,t' g.tnn ·nt nit r • h.~~~ luo!.ch lrmn ! ht slmuldt.:r and shp owr rlu l11 .:..f r h .1 np~~r itt tlt~ datuJt4tnd .1 dt.t\\ '>lnng tw ~1 mmalh

r

rru·

(

I'\ Ilk\

\

l'r \ J h. KtT \ heu\1 dnuhl~;: brca..;tt.:d d.1rk blu wu\.!IC'n j.h:k~''t '""·'rn hy !\:till)ts h ~it't •~c . . Jto.; n.un~ I rom tltt· l'>tnLh wnrd py· f\>r a h<. .w\ c.tl,t rs~ ' , ~..,len lll!lt~nJI In thL· c:td) p.u1 c)f tht! uiur.r~~urh Lt:lltttry l.1lUnr \I fred ,!'O.r"ill\, .1 E.sluon pcr"'~m.•ltt} g Jll_,lU,ght 111 tin nun\\ uhc,ur .a ro.u illlU hnught u~h a rccfl·r Jl··k('t from .t ~;:rilor. the l<~~ns. It hnd hl!cmnc pupul.tr •n

n,

tin: L:nnc.d \t..tt~~ ~md ~·rl-'ar Tlntdnl l 'r \CliC"K R1 \ Oll1ll>i'li ~ <. \ ltNA 81 1)J RH r f hl 11.HJJC glh'll TO the CX1.1tJC COfl'lT~ .llld CCC'~IltTk do· ht'\ of 1he 1q6w rh.n nmdr: men lol)k like p~: .kfltk... A tht popubra~ for uu;; d:tnJificd da~ph\ gn.: \\ trl~t..Uilt kno\\ n

.1" th,, 1'~1L'Ct.:k ikHlluuon

J11 H.. E j') 1. ~PH

~ J.tpL•J nit (JTl Ml llfl\\ trd c:J.mt ~~ tnl11F, t1• n poi11t nnd ll'aYlug ''"I)' it n.trnm ~pa'c.: hL't\\.:cn rl'tt: ~()ll:lr .uH.ll.1pd l!~u.•llr fimnd on \:ll.)ubll· bn.';~"tl'C.! L"O:It:o bm somclllnt', in ~mgle hrc t~Hl.'J •"(l.l!s I ht~;, ' '}k· v( t.11koJL l.1pd gr'OI!..o, stm' ur. fllll't tm.:l.ct.., .1 mun· fi HtltHtf d rl'SS} IDok. ~<.cr P•lgt• t<-t ) f'ru. Ill

''lli

~f-rench phrase ntC'a:ttHtg

km pJstll.. -

ddlnllt~pt flt,c, c\eu gr.11n nr lc.nhl.'rltl.i" surf:ll.:c 11ft, dull 4ll1t in) labn. woH·rtltkc .1 H\:11 t1 but'' rth Htb H• flnc .111 tlmoJ-1 !ifllnnt11 f.1cc IS pmdut'cd

l'r HIt F W[ \\£ \ dud1 \\ uh J 1cmgh( nt·d urhu; f. •mw.iln dt her n spcu.tl \\~.1w ur lu!-!.hl\ '" 1"'" I \.1m" th.tt hnnk \\hen wer dl·'>cnptwn fnr tl1at ~c..:tmn of .1 rR 'l r 1 outt: r ll g ltnl· cxtt·ndn1g fmm lhl' mhJdlc of th htp pc;•cl c.: 1 do\\ n h• th~.: J ur·~ PC!! hlp tmu t. r; ..tn 1m full tuf \\ tdc OH"Ifht.•lups nncl rap.. r w u~n \1\\ b Htnn ... I'll.. '\

Pr "'l r''' t;. r r \ pcc"Uf dr\l'm:m \\fUJIJ .i f.trtcr r\' k t or 1 ep.lrJh: JJ,ltrt " Jle,ckr't u~u.lll} ln~hi~ .1 m.ut=-

J.td., l ro lmu

t:

)

11(' ;11' lll(Jfi.•

rl 11

Pt 'l u t PJ I t;'\ \ t..'l'} tim ...mpcs m \ nr tlun: \\ -\ IU1-.. \\ lei• 'uggt ... rmg tlm..•c d1 ;t\>il d'} :l p~ rh d 1n nwn " auir i tl•h UJ J • ,.)urtu blt:nd ,,rcontt '"' '"'" t1.... b.t ~·r •unJ (su th ~lmr r •lmn ,g rrd~,J,1 1\..!IJI I :wreu PJt;• u-1 } PJ l u \ Rr u l 'I 1 h~ pu c.•rmatt. c It r.tt h.'l'ttU\ "' ,tft \ hch pt
1

1

J nth\: 1lt It lrt ,f ~ \ • f tor lt Jt rtl thJ• !Yrm~ d

n .m,ll ~n•

I 1£ \\1.. .t (\ff'

\1 i ..t t1L Jt 1 nrnI' It It iugt,· f.J ll !~ l, dtrt..LJ 111 htt n ••t i!nbr umm r trl thr- "'Ult J.1~ru-o; &-11~ fnld )

J. "\

Jl

I f1

\

t rm Jflplt

I'I [C.[

D'\ I I'

Dl'<'ll dh d

l AR

J1w l"nn upphcd Ul ll fabrrc th.H hil!

alil r If ha... bee 11\\ OH'Il th opp! ltl'

cor w I ..h ph z r m ,., trom thl

r

Ill Lli

Pt

ftt JrT

\I

"r ~\ r

rL"-1 I~ Ill INC. 1 he fornt:tUtln of grot!p'> of . .hon 1r hr l ·1 hb<·r- on t ha surfa\;e of 3 lrrhru: that :m: l:tngk(i tog •1lwr m lite sh.tpt' uf:r tilt} h.tll cnlled 1 -r.ull P"h ln! rmmcd \\ Jat.>n I he enciH)f n h:ttl") 01 \\ miJ) ltbtr

brc.tk Iron• du! ftb!lc surfitcc

Wit4lil}

from\\'('

t

p 1M •\ <.:0 J H 'N •\ l,Hlg :,lnplt• ~OtHHl gmv. n tn rh~ \uwric.m outlml..'c.:t numt!J aftct' l1am., C ,,unr) t\ • 1z, 111::1 ( n:.ucd b) ~ros.,brt"'nling Lg; pt!.lll .md \rlll.:ti..
r

qJJ.ll111 lurtmg" PIN ~HI Ch. \check "i~~ apprDaduug that of .1 pmh~.!nd

smaller than 11 shL-plt~rd\ d11 rl. produo..t d h} rhc t'nd m end Wt"':l\"C o( ah.:mlllllg mlorc,l thrv.ld'i uo:cd for sumngs spvnsv•c.lr and -.hirunga.; (~ sumng p:tgc -I bortom.)

am t • rnm 111 f .111 d c J I 1 l t t. art p llldt; r

th~ T1 M CODtlUUUig

fold nf m tt.:rul p d r t I~ h lltn piJ~.c.: l\- tl c n tTi n, p1 I d\ .n·d aan utt tt• u c.: r \ldtn J pit; t 111 l'rtc.:d l do\ thr- ~ .u~rl md t t l n IIHUiu,gL:tn< Ill Plr::1t~ tr~ u ro; f I t 1 tl u wit.bting nf th r. I1Jp "'h u ~ rt d \I J1 rc- 1 PLr

1 \

\l:numllm

0 1 Ukc n anw's a F. pauurn but sm:tller .1

1'1

snull dor nppru.-xtm.nd) rhe iil7-C of a ptnhl!ad, usuJJiv found 111 \\Orstcd m.ti11ngs (~u !;UJting page 145)

\\ju?Jt

t.ntdin • (. u p:t~ 118

ofr luu L s m mt J t qu3rter u rhrc-e quaner-tnon t ld na nUig "lm~..-lcngtJt tt"P shun I d t v. rt:r f r tnd Y. fh>s~· \'fJJth dnt 11 nor c.:Jil J nd r l1 sur.pcndc~ (~tt p gc !. 4-h Thcpw

c,o(m l,,~ hI

furi'mg du....h...nJ. tlf rht> buu n Lin

u~l

A qpe at ,.Junmg th:tr is liglua an wc1ghr .md linn in h~:ulth:tn '>r;mcbrd oxliJfd dodt PtN W\I.J.' Cor~iuror

I' I U~ 1 Ot.: It\. '>u KNlc J::l fWt) t I R

with

.1 \l!l"}t1:u:r•JW

wale ot• nb

(5tt• n:n ~ jn~ket. pngc 1.-;q) PINK

\ :-.ttlt ~hade

of reeL

Pt ~Kl NC Tlk nHring of d1c l~dgc ul~ mnrcrial m a :'.igz.1g, ~.l,, tuoth de.."Hgn LQ pr~vem fr:t} 111g. PtNNI"I) COLL\R Am ~~hirt

collar su'-h n. a mum! •)r • 'tr.ughr·point -=ollar who-a~ l~oJim.c; ru-e de~ign"·d to bl hcl..lu1 phh·c with~ ~atcty--.1;-k pin. If dw (oll:.u Ita..; a natural tiber luting. rathcnhan lihing rlw pm's lwlcs will do'c up tn dw wibhing process. (St:r pngl!~ 1H 229)

I' IN~ IIUI'ES· Fine 'itripc.s the wtdth of a pin scrnrch resulting from the u l' uf whire, gray. 01 orher).trtl5 in sencs

lf1

the

\\'ARf'

ufa

\\OR."TLD I \1\RJ<..•. c~~c"FnlJ'"sn

rhc "Sun I .rbric.:, .. g.ncfokL) A ll
rib, nr wale f:1brk >lChi~.:\ il1~ its r.1isc,l ~urt:,cc. a,,~swtse from -.dvage to\ ~dv:1gc sornclllllt!'i W(l\On w forl'rl :t hmw1. (vtnb or w:t11le •. JlTt:ct 11 •~ used l(w hnsomo: of f01!l1.1l !ihirts and I~Jrm:tl \\ nio;rco!H~. l he \H1rd b dcrhed from dw Fr,·n~rh •ltt~l rcft>n. to·:~ pth•" or "rh.u whu:h picrrl•s.l'IQ!

t: ,\ 'ur~l.

r

ntl

on rhl" other ._Jdc w Jth .a piUJ:! t t L,,_, Other mnrcnnl t; ~ed nh nuln h1 'r b button< \\-'JUt metJI ~lunl. .~ dldt. f n 1 plu :< hnlc: \\til It(jl he th1 on dtl' urfac:L I U1t 1 l

I'INl'OIN I OXI OIW

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Pn A "lrnn~i of n um JU v..hh.h rn

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nre tw ~~ted tog&.:Ul('lt 111\ rcrm

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b:.1g mad!.! of~ lor h 111~ uc n

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1'0Il' I TO rnt Jl.l \ mc.~un.'tllt'IJl :ll."l~ [ I IU J r \\ 1d1 h Tht dr~.mn.:.L' het\\ ccn the l\\ tJ, uldl r 1 t

\\11lchJ,Jcfillt:dasdt.1tprunt\\h rcrh<"i r h. fJ r :>l':tm lllt!Cn- the top ..:lee'~ at rh 11 ... k am rf t:Il runmng behind rbt" bad, of til!" \."Ull:u r r d

other houlder 2long \\lth tl1c hnlib

~~

m

t

[hc.;c t\\ o rn~ tsurc..-n1C1lt':i LCLintt'-'1 th \\ dtit I th Jackl t shouldm;o;

1'OLKA nor 11H· carlH!.•;;r dt'"l~n l..n u n t l ' nee I.\\ ~:mr. Llrtgmdll) reputed It ~ mb u t God (Srr pnge 11)8)

I

t

•

PbLO COA 1 \ dmiblc ur 'utglc- hfl' c;red

"un '

Pl '\l-:Kn A s, p.tr:th.' .,rrip ofrubnr st'wn onto n slun from nr c;lec~c g:tunclct 10 .;t:cun: the bummholc ~ .wd prO\ ide "rructur~· and finish (.)(t :;hin pngc 2-.l)

cJmd s h:nr nr s11ft i1f.'l'.:.~ '' ath ~·J n ·r 13.1!1 pat.·ll pockets '"·nh ilaps -s.fcc i' :-utr.. m..l h r t' Jl :tround belt Thrs Amc:nL .m dm.c; r.. Jll;e
I'LAI D ~ hoxM>c di!Stgn fi1rmcd b} smpt'' oPYnnous \\ttlths nuuung \crric.dh aud honzonmlh on .tl":tbnc. C>rig1n:tll} the ..plaid- \\a.; a ltmg ~t•cmng,th1r doth'' nh c.tn.tn (mtllll) in hlark and \dur\!~hCJ'Iwrd dtldt) worn owr the left should~·r b) d:t\ nr mp,ht the

Po:-..t.a F. A hghnn!ight ilighth n =t IT J rl 'Ilk fubn~- m J n~turnl ..JuJc • r" um :or al t.ulon.-d spon,-nc.tt. I' ~pe,"t.: " 1d t be · tf rorruprmn of rh.: Clum ' pr bt m..: \ pw1 slrl 11.1tl\.t. unuld ..til.

~

.J

------ - fit.rihh\!d knn~'ih.th:r nmd.: ''aha Jngh round neck '-"r rurrl~.:nL-ck Rl-' t\cd 111 1qbo tn'm a type 1f S\\t.:Jren,om b) n"'~ ho" ~; ~·f du~ c: uh twrnnerh ccntur} l't1 "R llC\'l

l'aJI'U ~S

·\n.urtt

l>t>n"\!

pl.-un tight f.. WtJ\'CJl t:tbnn' n h prououm:cJ rib.. ftWd tn..J . b) u . . m~ lre-~•cr .:md CPUI~r\\ \Rll pmcc, tl1:an \\ n r l ru.1U \U'"Rl.TIU7..E.n fQr higlu.rr lll'ilcr p< pltn has .1 h~' tcr n"\."turc dun broaddNh II \US :\.

ngm.:lllv a ~rlk IJbm. fur ~hurch o; esmu.:11t~o.••.md tht' rc~ s... dcm nf fc'Vm the FrcndtJ'.'lptEr~t•, {rqm "lwn dw l:tlu i · \\.1'1 m.1d~o: w htgnolt,. a p~p:~l cirr (sec mnrnt•r' In th~ htn rahm . . ~pt.efuld) l

fi

1

h_.l£ ur f..tl,ric ha\ 111)! •1 fl.ll rnpl1cJ "ro" tt rc~c-mblmg .a pork pic 111 r;h:~pt.: ... \ I lt::.td urn">llmt:.. M) r.:rmcd E!.JilO'Ffll:Jg:ll.inc wlnrh rnt:rttduc~.:J tt tn rhc t-
(m.K l If. .\ -.pdl4

ltat

JO

<."'ttubfl.,hed Lhhron for W\\ 11 .und .cmapw; tn .1 \~rieq of "·n)op; and latt-r hc('omrng a gtn.t.'Ttc r.·rm in the h.1 t bu ~ 11("5!; PRI~l.£

pulllp. i\lt!H:.tugh the pump bc:~u :1 ;r pc.t~UJt., ~h•x Jt \\.1~ .tdoptcd h) tht.• .unifi..•mts,:d mnn t."r\,1nt n rhC" l.n~ 1-l.ws tbl' lm\ hcdcd shp nn \\lth flJt hu\\ hnall c•JUt red . .oucn as-n srnan Iipper fllr th&: f !>hiouabl dl"t's,.cd bd ship qfLnndun L1tL•I tl br~ urt~:.• \LtmbrJ \H'ilr for mi.'Q forcrnnd .rlTo!Jno.. and \\1 rn wnh hri" • he-. .. (St.e page.. 208 .!'if )

l 1 l'N,~IIJ "lu" P~r:fontw.lnc; to tr(',lh.' .m ontnmctltal cff~~1 nn shot~ (,VC' p;~gc l'Jl)

o;utch Ill k.nmJng Hl \\hiCU I he ).ltn I!\ ruJI..:d tr<:1111 tin• 1:nx~ of the f:thric row·a,·d tlu: bad~ n. dJC; nc\\ lnt,p:. .ut' ti'mn~d Th..:. wvi'rsc uf the pl.un kun st itdt ir pn:•du..:cs horizunt;J I rm' ~> f 11 nwd 11m· kuu riu,g purl stitch,•., ,HI! produ.:c.d un .1 Hnl.s ,,m~ Jmh machl"ne f'U IH. j\

Putti'LF.. 1\ coludmll~u~ bet\\Ct:It hluc and n-.d rlu· cdor rh;tt ts aSS\)CJ:ncd \'>1 t h 1hi! gunm.·ms wou1 hy ''nt}Wrurs ( ( ~mcierH H1Jme was .uctualh crunsuu

Q!_: '\It rt:lt Titt• CNnpkte bad~ and upper p.tn nf .l hoc th:tt ;l,ins the ' !'.111 r

or \\ALE-s LHECJ:.. The rramc "iJch hut

m nrrcctl upphcJ t11 rhe Ol.£NU RQ..LHAl{ 1 ch~ck .1nd 'lnHI.Jr chn·k '' uh u rolored 'Hrcheck 11tt' au!hcnttcPnncc of\\.Ut:E cl1cck "\\,,~ dr:.s1gn ·d h} Ktn!;! hh,arJ \ H gr.mdf:uhcr •fme f.unons Oukcuf\\ mdso1 \\hi: Jl he \\.t<; Pnn~ nf \\1al~s as b\c"t'f) 1:1r his :;ltootrng:. ,J.t \lwrgdd11.: •lnltt;t• un cotland ~ Dt•cstdc. It rs oi muLu· p.mcm tel the ~cnurqulmn but TJt!,l rl} (\\icc 11 ~ IT.£ on r pc:tt with .;oJ,, r;s of red bmw n on .1 \\hue grnund '' uh .1 !!Wtt· gr:J} u•uxc.hl.'d.

' R u L I:

l'RINCl. t'l \\ .u E~ • •"~A: I.

Pa l"'llT rancrn appltcd tu fabric b} mean nf !OCJ"CC:ll'i llr" or uth~r tmpn. ton fl l!.H

\Cr.tgt'

£•

r ~BT \pcr
1 CJU"r

,f 'eat tJt!htnt·~ on o.n

.1mf t rnuscr-..

~ lint m.uendl made ftorn n twn up .md m ' do' n \tAtlP taL:c:cl m1ll \ha>oe \n t·~ht..cnth

r•nt

Nf 1 u

c'" nun I n_glt!'h "ttr:tni f:.1bnc m td~· tn " dm~c h.tl'J\r:~s t \Jll.md \l"il~ll· ~J~d J tl.ulpmpl~ urpfttm hade 1 h1 term'' Ut nhd fmm the f r~ul"h wttr.ll'f'l411tlllJ wlu h m an'" ,plnm .. It H

~ \n niJ t~tl r ~t, rm for 'iiUC si •t~ an '\ ttl'i t(o u.,

I•t ,l}!\14 It \ pk h:~ \ t\t'U f.abn In n soLd "r r.t!t •rn fnr: th b-.md of 3
r.

rl

~.u• rlil unJ lcJ mal :a hKirn dr fur •nn:ll "'~'-• mn gronrl r L'Jltlri 1 aud ball, non l.ci JUit~ uc ~J\' n tm p uup ugur.ui."lf I he h'rnt ''-il flr'
llil-11"' tl :tn i""m \\i1cn fm rmt""JI mJ tb uu! .tn~ ailed pump~ v•m tlun led I 1tb r l lr h 1 b, ~n ugge'>t<-d tb.u du•n I it 10 home ~ho tltppmg np :md d 1 m a th~ U .1 :\ ~ ntnri•lc tlnur... oundt:d hk .t \\".llU:l d dumtg tl t;

., 11 t ~~

n

the doilzes )'Oil HL't'cr tP('llr. -

A !'hort.lno'r:'-larung ragla.n I C\ed mgk bre:~.tcd n} thmt tupcoat wnh .I ruhb\ fJCllk Ltpd and ..ttsh pcn::l:.et.; Titt' tnn nf rlus c.uar r that lhc Pouct: of \\~c s.m rhc ortgHl.tlsu A \\tn lm~ uf d~p.arrmc.·nt swn· w fdmhurgh likt:d 1r .md \\Cut msnit and bnughnt

L) 1

.

-

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-

H.ACI \N r\ luO..'t:.' fh.rmg rope oar with full ..:ut -.It-co\ es c:ncuding at an nnglc from e.1~h armhole to llw wll:tr m fooru nnd h:tcLgL~.ucr.1lh o;inglt hr~·a trd \Hth .1

huuon·thmugh fmm:. uotclti."d l.1pd Jnd turn bJd \'uff.., ~ arnr•d for Lord R.agla.u ~n Ef1!!h h g<-ncral m the~ nmcan \\~rwho \\a mputtd t\.., ha\1.' "liAA( "tt..J that Ius troop' .:ut hnle:s m thr.ll' blanker.; ar1J the:: n Hlh-h tht> ha11~ing folds rnto C)lmdnt alm:tpt·~ fl,r thctr :tnns to pi\H\!u them fn"'m tht• bm,•r H..1f.tdinn t:"ulJ \ raothi!r ~wr~ goc" tlut I nrd R.1gbn h.1d ht~o f'11lor dl: 1g11 ,1 C.OJl 51~\"" that d tsgmsc.-d rhl' Jo-. "(.li ou..: qf lm 1nn" rn b.1ul~

R \1 ON \ ll.'xnlc fiber m:hiv l-;.,111 n.:g m~r:m::d t:dlullll\1.' b} the\ ISH'"'~ t'rcupr~unmuuimu pro«" :-~ 1 ltc. \\ \fO -1.nun"",\I;J..-If1VI!1ltCd II] 1•)..2.J Kl·tmuh J t1f{l '' bu rhottgl·n rite hb ·r hntlln..w•

m

.,hurt f,ttsbl~ brc:-.1~trd ~~' l rct,at or J.n·kr.t usu.tlb m:tJc of 1 h• ~H<) , ll•th ~\'UrtJ l)\ o;c am.an ( "~r1gh,,tll) ir fttMl."ned at tlrf' '.tJl'.; ~u tt mr.tlh pla.. Nl hmttm41 \\(1\lld Jlut he ...uJghl 111 nggmp.ltnt "hen tluft rl"~...fing s til ·r;_....,_.-Ja> It as tltc hJ\1 Brut h Rm111 .r\-y \lffi(cr " pd..l:t ami rfu~ ftul!bl'.ar oft hl· doubk· br'£"..1: t~d bbzcr mudd (~ PntH C' { harl r-.tg<: I II ) '\1:.' t ..angle !r dL uhlt: hre.t. t ...J httt·d r:ul~,rcd oH·r ~ t.M t \I "ltU :t m ufflc r

Rm f'J H.

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RJ(riMI~TA~ liiiRJI'E..Sc't p,tg\.'1'1

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nbhcd fnhr·tt; -with.~ord vtlccr fomtL-d b,- rfu.· rut r \do d)

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tlu: "Akl• m regular I'll\\" of lluat~ P.1n ll ulnrl..1 lat ted la o.tnpt"c; '' rth the rth runnmg tLrolt;~ 1lu I 1bnc an \\(~\Hag Jr '' U'iL'd prun:tnl~ lar ucd:"<".tt .tnd .t~.:<"C'> orlt· llh tctm onginntcd m !.!lglnet mh &:l'ntun f J,111t:L LUI'l'Upl~\i from nf. • I' r I' I A 1 \ \.lc~agn t hu1 appearr. agatn und 'l! un m a ttbaiL.•thn tht· munhr r ol 1 hrcaJs or ttiLho rcqutr(t]l(, ~:om pic 1e tllll.' Jt:s1gn RII'R ''I !l:,l I'\\ H.H . \\noll~bt·r:.

-.

, ll ~

II 1tNT Ct)N:o\'1 lf t.o •l~nN.

\ 1m'1hod of m:muh1Clll111l~ ,, nt.·daic. inH'I1!~.:'d in tlliJt•nrl) ''J2lh l'r Jc:.s1e l.tHgsdinf f11 \\ htdl riH: lm•~ cut ~hdl and rhr: bws ._mjmerltntng.ln' h•'ld wg~.·dtL·r h) .1 rl.'"ilwm "lip 'urch -.o rhal tl1~· ii1ushcLI ric '>tn!lt.-hl·s and fl'<;\lH'f'i \\hen knot:tl'd ,\lJ ltnc ttcs rm.• em u11 rht: hw-. hclpu1g them Lu htm prc>pt.'d) to tlCll mist \\ IH·n hung fmm rhc nt!d.:. and to rct.tm thl!Jr

f\.''tltt::nl·\ a ft{'J- ll1111 mg

Rn TllS \ llOI her n.ml~ fN lapds ,lC[ll:tllr the fncmg of the: l.tpcls which folds back to show the rr.wrsr c;1dc uf rite collnr and l.tpd-. out

J'lr

\ 1RQUsrR 1'1 L.t\I thJriolds or face"

u

0

'UU tlU

I

'\ l;{ceJ ,_, rd :i

black on "lutr (~r p.l$' _ •C.) JAt <..lT \((

nt.:

H J ,.c. 1 fl

th.n ha\t prC'\10u I)

~~.1111 inmm:.tl~n.tl

Itt \ ut~l

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uh trtp leathcrmcJ UlJ.•m b-p n !h m cnl rh t f th fih•• .,r ln mt~t ug I r u h a, bn n r '\Vfll £ \HOl

!oo '\I AJU

b~L'Il f.,bncatL:d hll1 th.:H'r worn, The\' .uc thtn Ulli'JH'In1_ fL"SWI'~d ttl nlwt' r,·,rm 'if'UII afh.l \\O\'t:l1

Rl

l\ I agur.H ~ m lhc L.lrl has1 of Hn nls Bmthr r f. Jr th rh. u ,,. n car

ALf \JI'O J1ff'PTR

fhr 1ipct..klud II

otht: I f11bn produced b) fled bnm 11 ,md whht. a-~

-t

-d

u

fl b_ck uJ \

~A •.. DAJ foot\~ ear con~tl'itmg <•La ole \IUt

r

fall

.,,,.. p~

uppct·m Ur1 •tn· and .a bud. led rr.1p c''lcndtng frt•m d bm:l. o\ cr the jw:wp. 'lnmt:umt•o.: 1hrn are n to~· ~traps tn

o·

1

front

SiA 'N L>t :-. J \ suit tJnnl~t u:lh.n\ h.tdt' fiR :lJ p<. nng un rhe f.1sluon ccm· a .t nn\' Wthardm Muu.:l titr p r1 ~lud:l'> COIIIcd h) Bqurrr., #\pp.ard A. f" mund ~·J4 A~r,Hunn

Tllt p:uuned proe£' of ldmpte h" '>hrml..l}:.' hirt. J he hrand namt 1 l\ th .i b the :-,anforized Compam \dnd1 1 .t ubi 1d1;u I Clu~rr P<.·:Jhnd\ AT J ~

A dfl:tel} wo...en shnt) f.abnc pmdu '"...:ll

dw pocket, l>ngln.dlrcallrclth, Conttncntnl plt:ntllS llppn~~ lll rhe t:n~IJsh r IJ'\Hlrd ple:tt 'I Itt• t'C\'Cnc pleat proJul"cs a ll:m~ r HcJUH!f' irom I h,m dtc il H'\\ilJ\1 p1<.'31:. (Sec page I J ~. I \\'0 bo1 h llll

anr.i dull llmsh b."lck Mad.: of qfk ur' nthenr t!u~: r .unn

phnr ogr.tphs.)

1~ u~-cd i"nr nc.. laveal' :ntd :1s trimrnmg lor fnrmah\~ ar :1'

tO\\'ltrd

Rm 1 l"G no en ;\ h1gh leadwrf,ul·,r ~lt:tpc..•d w leg dcsi~11L'd c-.pl'ci.JJy I(Jr hor!>L•buck riding

dw '"P of th~.~ 1 Rul rrt-.' \\'\I,TT>ANfi, a' tn lo\\" rise sln~.Cks and high rise u·ou,crs or tht! diiTen.·n~e b~.:'l\h'Cn the Tn'u~cr RISl

Tlw dist:tnc..·ll-om lh~? crotch

l11 1bt·

leg's \)Unl A~t and

tu

I~£L\M

R011 COL I !\R ~rr SHAWI L>\1'1:1..

Rt..Wl

sou \ hoc !>ok· m:t:dc l,rhcmp '"'r hruided

flbcr.s .amJ hdd rogcrhcr wnh 1hrc:tcl L

~1r adhc.!SI\1..'

Ru't.Al. ox 1onn· A lu'itrous.. high "'-'Uill (lrtgin:tl!) lllglis!J drc~<;~~bining clotb cnn..,trucft~t.lllt .1 II \l>f.: IT WJ \.\ 1 d(',ign of fine two-pi) } ,tm~. (."irt'' \.\ inter~ ill the "'Slurt [abri ~~.. g:u~·fold.) Itt

I I· 01

·r IH

Mfl:"'

fht• tcrm 'rult• ,,( dm111b' IS dl·riH•ti

iri1m rhc rmcu:tH prao:ticc of U!'ing the thumb n., :-. lllC':.t!;UI'iug de\ icl!. Jn mnrL•

nwd,·rn

rimt'!', 11 h:t~>

cumt'

be kmm n .1s :t guiJfng principle\\ nit" td<· .tpplioui t'ttlcs that govcm pmrcrdt\' !'.lnrk· has h!.!t'll said .1hotn tht:: les." tall~lblf• Cfl\tlllrlllD th:u rnflu~IKt' pJ.un, oJd iashtonc.J good juclgmt•nt" L\r0•1k· l)rOlhcro; 1•)3q tn

Rl ';SI r \ .:hHh d)ixl "ith bark m a dark bro\' n 1\Lj,; 'll r \ .;nfcl} t:ulvrcd cvar (r;.Hht:r th:lll.l .,,ut) \\ n h ~tr.1igln hanging lmt:>~ ltghtl) ~p:~ddcd mmmd ~houldcr>

.md undann1 fr,,ms (whn-h ml·ntb the ~o.lt h:ll; lru lc ~haping ,11 the w.t&~t) fir,l pc,pul:uiz~..J b1 dtl'

.t

p1 .,,bfc 10 llu:u 011 the faa: of the good! rt!,uJung JU g!t '} fi ce

\\Ca\'t'th,u pennirsasm:nt} ofdw'\\l\IU•end

il

:111 ahcrn,mvc 1,) rhc.- dulkr nbb,:d

gru."!!f'l'" {.Vt tlt!cltt:it., of lame" Mru.on p.agc q.t and I IOU5 beebe. p:tgc 1:0.)

~A' ILE

h) the

Rtm, Tht" tnmou.'> fa.shton

t:

tab!tc,hmmtlnult

rnrl of Burlmglon ;md n:unt.>.d ft t lu.s nft

Dnror h) :n tle Toda} 'J str~'!'t 111 tht.: \\ L l l nd nl London on\\ hrch mam ct\l>h m t;ul 1n an: hxuu:d I until H~·au Brummd CT~ted ;t 'n~n'" tnr ni '-1 )Kf ..\ I l.1!loring 111 the Iauer p
or

"~l.lN'"t: \ dmh rh:n dl!tl't:s.at tunH· from rhr \Cf! higt; gr.aie \\ODl r:u~;cJ m ~axom \•cnnnm \\hu~l the hc11·!i to rh~ Engli::.h tlm.m u .;uch ct [d\\.trJ \I I Ill d tn w~:ar l'll rltc•r-coWill"' t;:.
stotk

111

f.'lncy yaru ._}Iocr$ on tlt.. o:rdc or

fl\h

cd.

ll!it

i~'r o;Uitlll~ l
q p<' oJ""•\.l''l.C sallth.u rc ·en d 11 n.lltl~.;;

from kdrrr. \\ htch mean~ rn ch p en .:-ur up ' h.lppi 1lk I!> cut uno ..hoa lcugth" nd nuxcd """ odu:r fibcn> in th~ spun salk method llf m:tkmg \.lm Jl ., ~tronu but e\iJlL'~ trregubr Ju.,ta.>r ;:, "' 'L 01 ..-u c..R \I' \ pet•blc gt:Un1hat t:. m tnmt hem" chrome- .mnneJ .:.'l.J~ lcad1Lr '' tth u dccph cmhm.:l•d pcbblciJ ~urf:au: tku t ret:uncd C\c:U tt r rhc:- "'hn~.: h~!' bL·cu L \STLD c n!!mall} mad Ill ~ d.md ;~nd I ngland for shoe' of lht' ~mrJ l\NO{ l I 1\-p h Lt.::'l(lltrc:J c:uri..,"t.• knJ' ,rux_. ' "f1l rtU1J! jgpl,

mt'

'C T• H T\\'l:£1'' Twe-."\\c. tn!!dc: m .1 J:\H" up .wd two J~)\\"11 nHU ut pl.un \\ lntt" ··nth .t PH u :-.:{i .,f "' ,, k d) c
h) me 111 ut'a Gn~

m ..h ~rcett u1 \\hhlt . . p
Qh\td

tfm,ugh thl: ~o ·n m tlu pan oftill· t:1l nc tmJ'-'' rh" unr~tc..f .lrc.t" L!.:h .:clor m th'-' dcs1gn rl'qum.• .1 -, p.1r.1t1.; crcetl

'-n (st \ND l't.R Tc..i'-' I ht' \'4!I) finl''\t loug l>!plc cnooJl ltt...tn.tu- .UlJ r;trun8 gro''" orig1t1t1lh-1n 1\nu!>h cnkmutl r.Jan {o; w lfh' l .mbh·.m lollJ) 11 •~ r.uscd 011 ~nJ~ 11fr LhL' mudit.':in cna..,T nf <.,L"i.lr~l:t. m •Jmh ~ro 1 ana, Jnd u1 dtt \\est lndn.:~. "r t l:~l.ut\f ~ •nun i!i. a ul.thl.! t uh m rh~ lugltc-..1 quaftt) shtnurg:>. !oi.l \ M

1 h U p.:1n !'lf n gnr~nt \dlCf.: dae l'dg~ · uf t\\ U

p~.~.:ct" nf m t~n.U ll'c ~\\ n mga~lwr

r. \I utt..nw.'< t \..Jcnt·rn.fl• nH'I h til(<'\' mdlt.:"" of :.id.:lmotul millCruJ inr tmu crs nllu\\ ing for t hl· C p;ttl$ti.'D

Ot ~ \'then \\ ~.ucr i!> "eltcd \ ~\tl."hahle

f.thnc afwmm (•rotiwr blc.n.J: lmh "-rmklt'tl "-10pt:.s1tl.ldl·ln alrenng £he lC'fl."l\1 'II ll r.hc \\ \Rl' dtn.•JJs f tn.l dt'iCO\ .:red b\ rhc • llnnm an hrdt.t J .." .1 stlk tnbrtL' rlw \\urd 1 licnwd frum tht: I ftnds trtahr (Penmn slJrr tt sld.:.tr. mc:.tnulg ··mtlk .md ug;u ) (~£' o\nrhum Drcxd p,,Jdlc p~1gc 10c;) \I I R t

< K.Elt

\1:-u U1tW \ luLlJl m.1d~ fr"m clu.· ~Wrm· ~ht: II iithrk :a!> th~t of tht; N LC K Tl E '\l[UJtt•d ti rr.:f~ 1 11~ {{lp bJ.1d~ thruugh \\h1cf1 rhc uc', ~nail c11d ,:!111 bl :tiTu ro l11li,.J1t tU pl c ln tha.: .tlHit.•ncectlrn >elr lul'll· d1t u~.: · l.tb,l uhcn ·~·:'\c;; t1 'iJmc pu.rp l
!1i;

\

\\0\-C.Il UCStgn IU thl• .tmt.: '§b,td\• iJ~

rh.~; h •· kgr mnd af du:

th" Joiumg uf f'\\o pwc~""\ ._,f(tlmo: a 't~l'"dl I' h : ltL•.ltnt.'s,<; tO m:d..---c iunJ fiar curf h ~. tlch J· Ill I hr scrgiug of a ru.tr w .1 It'<'\~ ~F1 TN 51 rn I '>('\\

\ .:-o;~r. Inn. -tlr

n tn .11 the armhole.

~£\ 1

UnlmcJ ll!.!l.."k\\l'.lr nu~tt \\ uh told" of Ghnc dn: uu>st l:ill d .ltld c\.t'ith ucF{ till liE

IIA !IE

oF tlu.:

'I U rJ PM {, .'o« fJtf"p.;( H l fl'I'J l';<.;

ll\ \{.,~ fJdtlt oft hi'" cdgl"5 (

f .l f.abrJC. \\'C.I\\,'11 uf I • \ t r ! \ ':il m u u.tlh- m bngbt c 1lor;; fur nJ rc tnl:O' Qr til prt""\Cii1 uura\'t'hng l he ch;~.go:.;

d

·r

I he lOO\: of :1 ooJur .tpprua.:h rng the d 1d cud

\t,ll "c

":nl·.·

.!'ill \l"ti\\ '>Tilii'ES \nmdr!!ttnct. o;hadU\\ 'ltl 'P'' t:ftett

pi'OJuc..:d by rmplo~ ing .llu·m.1t mg smpc~; tlf n~thi !tlld fefr JmnJ f\\ N }ilrll lii dtt! WAR I' (St\ 1.!11 IU tlk '>J111 t r .tbn,:~ ~ g.n-di,ld prtg~; 1,~. brtUOIIl ) Thcdil•ct on Clloth~ m tnpl: · •r pl.:~iJ, prnducC~.-1 h) tlat! umutJtal(' duplu uu:m o( tla"· '' l't~\c t(mnauon afn:r a dcflruttt n.: pt
~UAJ,.:.J:.l( f..:~ I r

\~\cater kmtRd oflit.:l\) \hl•l \utn

nl .1 pi:Uu riblwd !.tttdt P c...tllt!J be~ m~· m mb~ r~ i"f rh • '-h:Jkcr :-ni ongin:trt>d ir

l!lmng the am t.mm.:... L"Ut tlm)ugh

H \M l\l 1 TO''IIltuu· ,\ lt111\b

of n buttonhole bur J10l

1 ill.' >;t\!d pl.nc or l~;tLitl•r n•mlrm.:(m~ntuJ a ~JrrJc l':'{tt.:mdmg trQm th\ lwd fot ".u.J ill "ill~'J'nrt th~· anch 11 u-:t..

II A I' I k

A pattern guid£." ur CIU"h!d 11IIt.'l' tht'l:f lot'

J

gtt1J(' u' gi\ 'llg t ht" desired t.vnwuno dtt.:' t'Famt 1 1 • g.tnm:ttt \lu'.. " worLcr who pcrf,,tm-.. dm hill~ 1 m b, mnuninJ! rhe front wrth sht.m. "

~11 >\RK Kl'-.i; \ dl'ar fan:-d

iahnc

•IIu.;r ~ mucm \lcL

dr\: ")

\hH~ttJ

fdbnc- n

t\\o tom:-s-n i"prn (lf t\\ dl \h.:.J\l' th:n '-tmul.JlL'"' r he ~m uf 11 -.h:~rk (~c·t J-ail" 1ll thl' Suu f thnc: "g.udi lJ ) I..H \\\ L l \1'1 t

tn l"t'nt.l'f b.-~.-k.

\ lapel cut 111 .~ac p1 ·~~

•r- \\ rrh sc.. m

that iol1o"' 1 he tront 'rt'mng ot tit

I ma: rl .rnarh,f tn wea\ltng 1._. tndtL.U•' thl" J tr ·rcr ry.rnJ f dm e- lfmun mh 11 c"l l1hn lu . _ . _ 1 r tru~.·hon ''~ fiK J b) l.1w ' ''"~ tu·an., rn"rk tlJcrr n nw qr ttndt: mark nr r'rcqm•m httL'r\.tl" 1.11\ the l i!' 1.. In 111~11 the word\\ .1!1 ~l·lf "J,gc

-smglc ur tfuublc brt'J.t:1cd r.td:t•t .md t\lll'i b.tl ~ "1thout ii(.HCh\:c; m~ pc.tb f lr:' J man.., Jinn r! 1d. t 11te ouh th.:tn:nh c w the pt: :~kt',t l1pd J"· 1~11 f. rdw d.t'>!llt dmut•t ~.1 ·kt•t. (~I.". Nc~l t 1\\,.Jrd p.1g :!4.1

"-ntrHJF~fM 1 h · h.trnn;iL'1tOU!Ig hltd ti.._ r.nh r

l~unh or ~ltt•t·p·~kin thnt f1:1" bet. 11 ranm...t WlJh HS "'\lt\1

\\41

than "hm 1w funnnh' \!llr \~ n '"-1 ~

\l Nl

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1

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ttll tdht:J mg to rbc ~Ill

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pi.Jid 1hl:

flliiJl\.l;)tt(')fl Ur(}IJ \•dttdl dtL (.'llltr( S rJ\: 'i ,1,1( S\ 11f"£14J

norJt·, Ptsmu chcd~ n.:

t

1 he· ol"tgtn ,t rh, i\J t rn

Jat .. b a.;kh\th 'St:'\Cilht'ntltt:\'111\111 y,Jt tlll \lo.t: 1 1 d h\ the lu-phL"nls- tor the 1r pln,,t.. tn tht• I ''" 1 11 f In tltf' ure;u I ~1ulutJ n tlf Jk;;J rl p \th n r .acJ t:rn.mor1 .111d "il' dl nh: .:i I :u nn·n 11 1 R ~t r ~ \n nh pn.•pm1t,Jtro:.;:d '"h .. d pltt nt • r 't\\ ill w .a \\ht n• th~ '\ tpuag ,nJ \tdnng h u u I!\ t tttr fb~t.«~ ,.......... •md fi lllr ()f\\ llJf or ·cmtr.1.-'iUng .u lur an"' 1t J mnug .mJ tt au\Cr... (.~ ...,UJ,Ulttr 111 till" Suit lt1bn.... ~.udold th~ Pnn -.- •d \:\ tfc-, p:1~c 66)

~Ill

A "Ol•l pnzc·d (,Jr tt,s lightnru aud \\ .tnnt h from f1t.'1'p 011 \: d off tfu: IU.Udll'rJl I;J t of ~cmlnnd 111 rh~.: h\'tl.wd a lcs. ~lh tl.md hct p ltk\: ~hetland punac ShL tl:md C\l\\.fi ltld lu: tlaud ollu• do~<. :tn· the :-.m.• llt:st or t:bcu pc\.1 . Rt'"'t"tllblmg 1"\\t>t.:d 10 .tppc.mmc<· but sufr'"·r 111 ft r I odd jnckt•t'i m he d:md wo I b, c.tmt· .1 t pll' uf the 'HCJl"l\ .tiport~IU.UJ ,IJI~J lVI LtA• .t:£ l"l 11J tltl' r1 A

D

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'IZING ( HOP,)

(.Su rnpt~

SHIIUUN,.. \ ~ent·.-.ofdoq: p~trallcl

ruammg.....,f,,onl Jh.n Ul! 1rn\\Jl up M.l M.to anakt the: mottcn.tl bct\\ctn dwm s.·t 11111 hr g.JI ht:nugs (.Sre l Inrl.. t.nblc page H ,(,) lad. Hf hadt IC'rlgth •>wr dat: -...lmu(Jcr bbdc~ 10 tit\: b:h k nf the lt~·d :md llohnuldcn cammg <] rolb r to dr:ag dunn rmm b.tck ~,r 1h..: rw..,l :111d or :t c0at ro lnmg ()Umard .md 1\\ n)

CI

In :t tntl Jt"l'd J:ld.l!l

i1

from 1 he .;cat

JncJ uf from lcug1 h 111 tlt'-' h.,fance C\J tht" gamlt:nt causmg dtc garment to pull fom-ard fn1m Lhc figur\.' and to appear SUOH f IRON I BAI ANCI In a t.lilon:d Jnc.J.ct ,1

shorter m from. 1\ defect common to erect figure

plaC'cmc·nt of collnr run

t111

rfH LIN I·

1 he Gnishc:d ,mdinc of d1c ~hc•(tlder

:1 g.1rmcm rhrrt

nawr.JI t'tC.

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'IIU 1 I l l .. \11 bt't\H'Nl \\'

j, ~qwm:-,

imph.·uwnr Lhat

hE I

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nd .t 1.. rJur '

C'&th • J ' UL,Lt:d

I

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The .sen in running from the :trmltolc F> 1h~ bolllllll or the coat jPIUIIlg du.' fi·ont ro dtt• ba(k ofco:ll Sec page 89

~~ 11'1'1 H

\m foot'"\ .tr (~'lcc-pr u rul-bcrJ \\lUI HU fustcmng Lhat as <.]Jf'Jled on the f.., 11 .tnd h ld 11 plot "nhour ·Ill)' f.'ll>..h.::nulg; frmn the tcnst n ilJ'( 'ttl :1 the

1

1d 1i '"" mg t ~ t fu-r blanket of a nt.!d~u~ dlat pcnnm n m

• u r SI ,. \ lighrw'"·ighr CPW>n nv1 LI n1.1tcnal wuh a calcndcnzt•d '-' )!1:1/.c fimsh usl'd f~,r pockl't lming~ ..:rc 1 Llli.JUJ ·r 1 r:

l

1 1J' ON \ notllace!d ~h

~IDE HAM.

II)~ \ FNT~.

IT

pocket 'OCt •m • 1 d t' t ft r 't rtlt.:al ur dr. ga'llLil p )_In m th 1 1 t:t tl h d J gothroughtoLhenc\:tb)r.;r f II m,gutJuJ found on r. llll~•:ltb or uwn t..lt \1...\ Jll'

J:lCkrr or C\ <"'n ~u• r ( u pagt. 169)

~IIL-'~trr Nf..l K \ nc,Jdlllc that rc~JUtf('S :tiU\H'r

u

'\ti.JM HR~rt.SfN

th

someflnli!S ~;ubsmunng ~~~ a ''-'h n

causmg a bad.: ccnrcncm to open

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J.rckcr pagL' 1oS)

SIll 'R I II A( " BA l A

( ( fl ~1

tcm u tghrh u 1h n dt qu..n J n nc.h h 1~ rt' tzrd h\ hah

l

t'.lrl) I •)l.l\S COUJ'tl''i' ~,r Umoks nmtllL r

) JI t '-II' t d t~·n ,.,. d u .. umkrt o <' 111 ~.: r m t

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tl h If Jn\1 um lrL l I and rccm er} charac~nud b the pre.."" fl('l(! ot ·spnnc· or expn"t-d lo p uf th~ d ft unJ r th 11 end 11u<:luopofmrcadl'•dnmnupmt rh In t f dH! uc durm.g wear: prcH~unn._q the ;un n m oop)n ng addmg l'b"ucn~ to the OC" nnd hdpmg Jt h 1.: , t' U I' STITt. H

Th'"· outhnt- of a garmcut t'lr •.md'it :ts

womb} au indivi~hml, .;uch as shupclr or flowing Hn~

Stt h A fiber cxrru ..lcd b) dw silk" ,1nn m fonmng :1 c:oconn "ht'h is pro.:\~,scd and \HlYcn imo fabric. The "II.: thrc.td is :1lmo~1 :1s .-,trong .t~ one of cqu:tl daamctcr

in srcd Stlk i~ .tl~o cxrrcmdy ri!..,llknt .mu r"t'-:il'ts wnnkles. 1\ tltrct·-tont ll..'ngth strcn:hcd to tlu rc ami a hnlf icm \\ill o;ubsl·qm.·ntly rl..'\~rt to 1t:. t'nginallcngth

\

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A lnr coll..r wtth nmfl tnp d Ifill'!! rfn Ur Or ilU~laf put til rhc U!ld('~ld p JCJ '"I 'i c,11.J1 collnrpomt rn ",t '~ ,n stifftn n thu pre~ nt ng If fn>m L.,trhl:tg up ord{ '.\ n T~ ttn dun h \C rcmo,~bll· ,sun" 6.1r l:mndt•rtn,g

n ThL· hmn .tppl•~d to .llilckct w:uMco.n. or outcrcoat w1th .t.singl{' :;ct of button~

plnrc m a v.am

1L" 11 ,\I·, -~~ •r 11,\ 1;

tNGLT lllt[I\S'J"J

st.'\\ n a short d1Hmu:e from r he c:dg~ of OtiC .. tdc \lt the from .111d bunouholc:- 'c" n w th~ corrcspondmg posuaons llO the other iJc INGI.l Cl!l

1 [ lw emiT of.t :;hlrt cuhl·r 5oft or

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s~Ar flRlM HAl Fl"lt ~tr.i\\ ot t:ID.n h t ' nit o1 bnm dl'"tgned to be mmrd dO\\ n tn fr. ut r ' ~adc and up in b:;d..

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