Dremel Carver Duplicator Like a Human Power CNC Ro

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Dremel Carver/Duplicator like a Human Powered CNC Router by Adran on January 4, 2009

Table of Contents License: Attribution Non-commercial Share Alike (by-nc-sa) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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Intro: Dremel Carver/Duplicator like a Human Powered CNC Router . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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step 1: Design Intent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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step 2: Rev 1.1 - Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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step 3: Rev. 1.1 - CAD Model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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step 4: Rev. 1.1 - Wood Pieces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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step 5: Rev 1.1 - Metal Pieces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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step 6: Rev 1.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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http://www.instructables.com/id/Dremel_CarverDuplicator_like_a_Human_Power_CNC_Ro/

License: Attribution Non-commercial Share Alike (by-nc-sa) Intro: Dremel Carver/Duplicator like a Human Powered CNC Router For the last few years I have seen all these cool CNC projects from affordable rapid-prototyping machines, to laser cutters, to hacked together CNC routers. One of these days when I have the funds, I will build one of these CNC machines but till then I thought I would do something more on my budget. I have a Dremel and have been buying various router bits for it lately. I was thinking that I could buy one of those Dremel Router tables but, that would be kind of limiting. So then I thought what about building a Dremel Duplicator. It would have three axes and could be utilized much like a CNC Router with the added advantage of copying an existing object. This is my exploration into building a Dremel Duplicator. Updates: + Revision 1.1 - 01.04.08 - Wood and Metal Pipe construction + Revision 1.2 - 01.06.08 - Axes improvements + Revision 1.3 - Coming Soon!


Image Notes 1. Dremel 2. Stylus a.k.a. Phillips screw driver 3. To be mounted on a board later 4. This axis could moved to the top holes for carving details up to 16" tall 5. Rev 1.1

step 1: Design Intent My original design intent was to create a Dremel duplicator/carver from readily available and inexpensive materials. This machine should be able to duplicate simple operations such as holes, channels, and outlines. Ideally this machine would also be able to manufacture complicated 3D objects. Future versions may include synchronized turntables and a mounting plate to hold items in place. I had this all planned out: draft a simple CAD model to figure out dimensions, print out pieces to use as a template, cut and drill parts, assemble, document, post to contest and brag about how this machine cost less than $20 to build, was modular and reconfigurable. Seems pretty easy but it was anything but& The main stumbling block in Rev 1.1 was that I did not have access to a drill press. The holes in this project need to be exactly aligned, which is really hard to do with a hand drill. Rev. 1.2 will show a proof of concept. Rev 1.3 will hopefully show a refined project.

step 2: Rev 1.1 - Materials You may have asked yourself, does this work? And the answer is that it's a work in progress. The biggest problem was that I used a hand drill because I did not have drill press. All of the holes were crooked and none of the axes aligned. So would this work if you had a drill press? Maybe, but I think you would still need to come up with an ingenious to increase the performance of the sliding axes. This may be achieved by adding ball bearings or using UHMDPE plastic. At any rate I am going to include the printouts and construction documents in case you want build/modify this design. If you build one or have any suggestions please email me and/or attach a picture. You can fast-forward to Rev 1.2 to see a working prototype if you like. Rev. 1.1 Materials: + (1) Dremel + (1) Phillips screw driver to be used as a Stylus + 20ft of 1x2 hemlock (mdf or plywood may be better because it will be less affected my expansion and contraction of natural wood) + 5' 11 3/8 of .5 Stainless steel pipe (electrical conduit would be fine) + (1) 3/4" or smaller pipe clamp ($0.79Hardware Sales ) + (1) 1.25" pipe clamp ($1.29 Hardware Sales) + (1) 2.5-3" pipe clamp ($1.29Hardware Sales) + (16) 2.5" wood screws + (34) 1.5" wood screws + (7) .5" wood screws + (6) 8-32 x 1" screws (this is to lock the Dremel and stylus in place.) Useful Tools: +Safety glasses and ear plugs: Safetly First, attempt project at your own risk! I will not be held liable for any injury, medical expense or death as a result of think about, building or using the project once completed.'' + Hand drill + Miter Saw (hand saw could also be used) + Drill press + Pipe cutter


+ Various drill bits including 1/8, 1/4, .5 or slightly larger + Tape measure + Ruler + Router bits for a Dremel

Image Notes 1. Pipe cutter 2. Phillips screwdriver to be used as a stylus 3. 14mm and 15mm wood drill bits. 4. 3 pipe clamps: + (1) - 2.5-3" + (1) - 1.25" + (1) - 3/4" or smaller 5. Molly Bolts: These were going to be used to hold the Stainless Steel Pipe in place until I change the design to a free standing unit. 6. Wood Screws: You need an assortment of screw .5", 1", 1.5" and 2.5" 7. Tee Nuts and Screws: This will be used to bolt material to base board 8. Dremel 400 Series: 9. Stainless Steel Pipe: I found this at the Japanese Version of the dollar store, [http://www.daiso-sangyo.co.jp/english/ Daiso] Everything is $1.50 including these 910mm (36") x 13mm dia. (.51") pipe + (2) 18" x .5 " dia. + (1) 19.375" x .5" dia. + (1) 16" x .5"dia. 10. Wood: + (2) 1x2 x 4' Hemlock + (2) 1x2 x 6' Hemlock + (1) 3/4 x 2' x 4' mdf or particle board for base

step 3: Rev. 1.1 - CAD Model I'm not an engineer, so this is a work in progress.

Image Notes 1. When the arm is attached here, it has a carve height of 16" 2. When the arm is attached here, it has a carve height of about 3". 3. This can travel about 16" back and forth. But this could be increase or decrease with pipe length. 4. This Dremel Duplicator can be easily mounted to different tables


step 4: Rev. 1.1 - Wood Pieces I used 1x2's because its inexpensive and relative uniform. The materials will be updated soon, I'm working out a few bugs.

File Downloads Router Duplicator Template.pdf ((792x1224) 21 KB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Router Duplicator Template.pdf']

step 5: Rev 1.1 - Metal Pieces Metal pipes lengths:

step 6: Rev 1.2 Finally some success! As you can tell from the videos, all of the axes are working properly. Now I just need to work on the accuracy. The x axis (left and right motion) is quite choppy at the moment. Im going make the arm the entire length of the vertical support so that it can only move up and down. The new x axis will be the pipe that the Dremel is attached to. Another improvement will be the addition of skate board bearings on the rails which should improve tool fluency. So stay tuned!


Image Notes 1. Counter balance: this is just a scrap piece of tile 2. draw sliders 3. Electrical tape and c-clamps hold Dremel and stylus stationary 4. X-Axis is screwed into drawer slider 5. Going to increase width so that this arm will only move up and down in Rev 1.3 6. This is going to be the new X axis on Rev. 1.3

Image Notes 1. Adding an additional pipe clamp will reduce twisting of stylus

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Comments 20 comments Add Comment

wch says:

Mar 27, 2009. 7:22 PM REPLY I carve mask and gargoles and I have tried to used a dremal yool in my duplicator and found it does not have enough power for any real serious work ,instead use a trim router as it has a lot more power and you will see the chops fly and listen to the people about beefing up your design.

kenbo0422 says:

Aug 19, 2009. 3:58 AM REPLY To get a better accuracy at the tip of the dremel: Use another dremel tip in place of the screwdriver. The exact profile of the tip will give you better results. Also, fill in the cutting ridges on the profiler tip with epoxy or putty... Since the carving tip is spinning, its profile is virtually solid, so the profiling tip needs to be solid as well.

kenbo0422 says:

Aug 19, 2009. 3:51 AM REPLY To eliminate the slide problem, there is a 'sliding' ball bearing you can use, called a ball bushing, simply enough. It is a tube with straight 'races' inside. The races contain ball bearings that roll through the races and return the other direction, but not touching the surface as they return. It allows radial and linear movement. They come in many sizes and give a good tight fit when used with the proper sized shaft.


static says:

Aug 18, 2009. 11:08 PM REPLY IMO no matter how much flex you remove flex from the other components, slides rails and bushings are going to be a problem. They work fine in designs where the carriage is moved by lead screws. Here where the force that moves the carriages is so far removed from the slides, I believe control will remain a issue. Using two parallel tubes where there is now one tube just might help, but may introduce other problems Good luck in getting it all the bugs worked out to YOUR satisfaction.

merijnvw says:

Aug 17, 2009. 3:38 AM REPLY

Hi this is really cool. Do you have photos of things you made with it?

gearhead1951 says:

Aug 15, 2009. 2:07 AM REPLY I dont remember th' titles , but there are a number of tutorial boks on routers and router jigs and at least one that covered a 3 axis pantograph that was capable of carving in th' round , that is , to carve a free standing copy of a statue ! I last saw this book in VA in 1997 Gearhead

kmpres says:

Aug 14, 2009. 8:46 PM REPLY Hey, nice work! I really like the low-tech approach; human arm power instead of stepper motors, no need for electronics, etc. Some diagonal bracing will help a lot, I think, as well as a front piece connecting the two side rails together makng a four sided box instead of the three sides you now have. If a wood peice would get in the way you could make this out of 2mm thick aluminum. These should go a long way to improving accuracy and reducing flex in the arms. Also, I noticed the cardboard surrounding the pipes you bought have the Katakana characters for "Stainless Pipe" written on them. This probably means those parts were imported from Japan, or maybe you live there, as do I?

altomic says:

Aug 14, 2009. 11:23 PM REPLY Re: the Katakana - I thought the same thing (having lived in Japan for 4 years and bringing home cartons of Japanese tools and electronics parts). great instructable. I like it. without the massive complexity of industrial CNC instructions. thanks

Instructabilis Deus says:

Aug 14, 2009. 6:10 PM REPLY That's pretty cool Adran. I tried to come up with something like this a few years back, but never succeeded completely. A couple of ideas I did have that might help though were to use a square piece of plywood on a piano hinge connected to a 1x8, and a couple of ball-bearing drawer slides for the side to side axis, that the 1x8 attaches to. This gave me better side to side accuracy. The piece I never figured out, you clearly did with the drawer slides going forward and back also. Very nice

aaronscottaugustinhotmail.com says:

Aug 14, 2009. 1:46 PM REPLY I have to say this is pretty darn cool! But technically because a computer does not run any of the movement, Its not really a CNC its more of a mechanical Replicator. Still pretty sweet ible

imshanedulong says:

Aug 13, 2009. 3:15 PM REPLY

That is a very clever idea! Extremely useful!

peterlonz says:

Aug 2, 2009. 6:58 PM REPLY I am an engineer & I congratulate you on a "rolled up sleeves" approach to getting your project to the demonstration stage. Please heed the suggestions above, all are soundly based. Yes low cost does bring bragging rights, but when the chips are down & your time, energy & emotions are considered, what you really want is something that works outstandingly well, within the limitations imposed by your chosen cutter head. Construction precision, well chosen stable materials, & rigidity are are key to performance. If you could build this for $150 excluding the cutting head & reach the performance objective, that would be an outstanding achievement. Keep developing & don't be afraid to start over - and please buy that damned drill press.

armylifer says:

May 29, 2009. 10:40 PM REPLY Nice beginnings. Release your stylus from the hose clamp. To make your stylus springloaded and touch the pattern before the dremel hits the work piece, make a solid bracket on the swing arm with a hole just large enough to let the screwdriver or a real stylus to fit in. Make two adjustable stops to fit on the stylus below the bracket and the other on the stylus above the bracket. Put the top stop on the stylus and put a spring on that is easy to compress, but not so that the weight of the swing arm causes it to bottom out. Put the stylus in the bracket and put the bottom stop on and secure it once the dremel is almost touching the work piece. Much less goof-ups and more precision carving. Good luck.


GEEKSRUS says:

Mar 4, 2009. 12:30 PM REPLY Poor design due to limited stability of the axis materials you are using. Try a Arm that reverses the work upside down on the other side of your table opposite to the model you are attempting to copy, (two tables) an upside down cutting table and the Template table. What does it matter if your dremel drops the material upside down away from your template model? Consider a stiffer Beam; the wooden amusement park roller coaster is popular because it moves. Wooden Floors are popular because they flex. Reduce the number of moving parts and increase the strength and sliding flow with brass bushings or lead bushings, or wheels or something. Nice try though to be nice. Also if you use a seesaw type of setup you can increase the size or reduce the size by moving your dremel tool up or down the beam on the opposite side of the axis. Note: only if the Beam is 50/50 like a standard seesaw would it produce the exact copy from he template. good luck

jackzylkin says:

May 26, 2009. 9:15 AM REPLY Don't listen to GeeksRUs. Your design is really impressive, considering how ultra-low fi you kept everything. It is way possible to build a good router duplicator with exactly these materials (I have), but I agree with flaco1: consider using diagonal bracing in your next rev -- as is, your design will flex a lot since everything is square, not triangular. And why not get a drill press dude? They are cheap and you deserve one after all this effort.

RWReade says:

Feb 6, 2009. 5:41 AM REPLY

Looks great, can't wait for you to come up with version 1.3

flaco1 says:

Jan 19, 2009. 11:08 AM REPLY You can increase the stability of your X axis if you increase the width of the Dremel holder and add a diagonal brace from front to rear

PKM says:

Jan 5, 2009. 10:26 AM REPLY This looks like it could be a cool project- a bit like a cross between a key-cutting machine and a pantograph. I wonder whether you will have any problems with fine detail if your "stylus" isn't exactly the same shape as the engraver bit, but I suppose you could always use an engraver bit for a stylus if you were concerned about that (and had a suitable work piece, of course).

gmjhowe says:

Jan 5, 2009. 4:31 AM REPLY

Unfinished? when you do finish it, be sure to add a video!

jeff-o says: Yes, I'll be looking forward to seeing how well this works when it's done!


Jan 5, 2009. 6:33 AM REPLY

Dremel Carver Duplicator Like a Human Power CNC Ro

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