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WORKBENCH
A WORKHORSE OF A
Our IDEA SHOPTM workbench may be the design for which you’ve waited for years. It’s simple to build and super strong. We relied on inexpensive lumberyard stock and rugged mortise-and-tenon joinery to construct the base. For the benchtop, we laminated maple to handle a lifetime of workshop activity. And we added bench dogs and a bench vise to expand the usefulness of our workbench, making it a fitting centerpiece for any home workshop. DPMD-00134
©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2001
Page 1 of 11
Let’s build the super-sturdy legs first 1 From 1fi"-thick, straight-grained pine, rip and crosscut eight pieces 3‹" wide by 33‹" long for the leg blanks. Plane the edges of the stock before ripping it to finished width to remove the rounded corners. (See the box at left for our method of obtaining straightgrained pieces from common lumberyard 2×10 stock.) 2 Cut a 3" dado fi" deep 18‡" from the bottom end of each leg blank, where shown on the Mortise detail accompanying the End-Frame Assembly drawing on page 3. 3 Cut a 1×3×6" spacer to temporarily fit in the mating dadoes of two leg blanks, where shown on the Laminating the Legs drawing on page 3. With the spacer between the pair of dadoes and the edges of the leg blanks flush, glue and clamp the pieces together. Then, remove the spacer before the glue dries. (We used pieces of scrapwood stock
Design Notes To keep costs down on this project, we hand picked straight-grained pine 2×10s for the workbench base at a local lumberyard. In addition, we checked each 2×10 for twist and bow, and chose the straightest and driest pieces available. (If you have a moisture meter, take it with you when you shop.) After getting the stock back to the WOOD magazine shop, we stickered the boards, and let them acclimate to our indoor environment for several weeks before cutting the parts (A, B, C, D) from along the edges, where shown in the sketch below. This allowed us to use the straightest grain possible and achieve the best results.
between the clamp jaws and legs to prevent the metal jaws from denting the softwood.) Repeat the clamping process for each leg. 4 Remove the clamps, scrape the glue from one edge, and plane ¤" from the scraped edge to get it flat. Rip the opposite edge for a 3„" width. Next, plane „" from the cut edge to remove the saw marks and to obtain the 3" finished width. Repeat for each leg. Now, add the feet and rails for a wobble-free base 1 For the feet (B) and the rails (C), (See the End-Frame Assembly drawing on page 3 and the Parts View drawings on page 11.) Follow the same method described to form the legs (A). Cut the pieces oversized in width, cut the dadoes, glue the pieces together with the dadoes and edges of the boards aligned, and trim to finished width. 2 Clamp the two feet (B) bottom edge to bottom edge. Mark a centerpoint 3‹" from each end of the
Design Editor
Joint edges to remove rounded corners. 2 x 10 x 12' Cut parts from straight grain.
Pith
For even drying, place strips of wood underneath stock to allow air to pass freely around board.
The purchase of these plans does not transfer any copyright or other ownership interest in the plans, the design, or the finished project to the buyer. Buyer may neither reproduce the plans for sale nor offer for sale any copies of the finished project.
Page 2 of 11 TM
LAMINATING THE LEGS Remove spacer after leg blanks have been glued and clamped together.
Cut spacer to temporarily fit inside dadoes to align pieces when clamping.
Edges flush
Clamp pad A
TENON DETAIL
11/2"
3/4"
1/2"
31/4" 11/2"
11/2"
11/2" 3/4"
3/4"
3/4"
1" 181/2" 11/2" 1"
31/4" C 3"
MORTISE DETAIL
11/2"
Cut dadoes before laminating parts together.
283/4" 3"
3"
A 183/4"
3"
END-FRAME ASSEMBLY
A 11/2"
183/4"
3"
181/2" B
3" for part A ,11/2" for parts B and C
1/2" for part A 3/4" for parts B and C
11/2" 4"
Page 3 of 11 TM
clamped-together feet. Now, use a compass to mark a fi" hole (‹" radius) at each centerpoint. Draw straight lines to connect the edges of each circle, where shown in photo A below. 3 Mark a 45° cutline across the end of each leg, where shown on the Parts View drawing on page 11. Do the same thing to the end of the rails, where shown on the End-Frame Assembly drawing on page 3. 4 As shown in photo A, drill a fi" hole at each marked centerpoint. Remove the clamps, and bandsaw between the holes along the inside edge of the marked line. Sand to the line to remove saw marks. 5 Using the dimensions on the End-Frame Assembly and Parts
View drawings, miter-cut (we used a bandsaw) both ends of each foot (B) and both ends of each rail (C). Sand smooth. 6 Drill a trio of ›" holes in each rail (C), where shown on the Parts View drawing. Next, let’s assemble the base 1 Mount an auxiliary wood fence to your miter gauge and a dado blade to your tablesaw. Cut tenons to the sizes shown on the End-Frame Assembly drawing and accompanying Tenon detail on page 3. 2 Glue and clamp each end frame together, checking for square. 3 Route ‹" chamfers along the edges of the end frames, where shown on the Exploded View drawing on page 8.
A
4 Cut the stretchers (D) to size.
Cut a 3"-long tenon at each end of each stretcher to fit snugly through the leg mortises. 5 Route a ‹" chamfer along the edges of the stretchers between the tenons. 6 Using the Tenon detail accompanying the Exploded View drawing, bandsaw a pair of V-shaped notches in each tenon. 7 Cut eight wedges (E) to the size shown on the Parts View drawing. (For contrast against the light pine, use a dark-colored hardwood for the wedges; we choose genuine mahogany.) 8 Glue and clamp the stretchers in place between the end frame assemblies. Inject a bit of glue in each notch, and using a mallet, tap the wedges into the notches, and check for square.
B
Clamp the feet together, and drill a fi" hole at the marked centerpoints to form the radiused bottoms.
Tap the hardwood wedges into the notches. After the glue dries, trim the wedges flush with the legs. Page 4 of 11
TM
9 Being careful not to mar the surface of the leg, trim the wedges flush, as shown in photo B.
drilling and laminating later, mark an X on the best (defect-free) edge (not face) of each strip. 2 Using the Benchtop Assembly drawing below for reference, construct and attach a long fence to your drill press to ensure consistently spaced holes. Add a support to each end. Mark the reference marks on the fence, where shown on the drawing. 3 With the marked edge facing out, align the ends with the reference marks on the fence, and drill three fl" holes in 24 of the 28 benchtop pieces (F). 4 Still using the fence and your marks, drill three 1fi" holes ‡" deep with a fi" hole centered inside each 1fi" hole in two of the remaining four pieces.
Build a top that c a n t a k e a pounding Note: You either can laminate your own maple top as described below or substitute a solid-core door from a local lumberyard or home center. Ask to find out if the company has any doors that customers have rejected because of mistakes in staining or cutting. You can purchase these for a fraction of their retail cost. Avoid doors rejected because of warpage.
1 Cut 28 pieces of 1„"-thick
maple (F) to 2‹×61" for the laminated top. For reference when
5 Glue and clamp eight of the
predrilled pieces (F, G) face-toface, with the edges and ends flush, the fl" holes aligned, and the Xs facing up. Next, glue and clamp two nine-piece sections together in the same manner. Each of the nine-piece sections should have a strip with the 1fi" holes on the outside edge. See the Benchtop Assembly drawing below for reference. (We found it easier to laminate three sections, then glue and clamp the three sections together to form the top.) You should still have two maple strips (F) with no holes in them. 6 Using a hacksaw, cut three pieces of fi"-diameter all-thread rod to 27‹" long.
BENCHTOP ASSEMBLY 1/2"
F
nut
11/8"
1/2 "
flat washer
F
1/2"
all-thread rod 271/4" long
11/8"
10"
1/2"
F
20"
nut
10" 20"
20" 5/8"
SECTION VIEW DETAIL 5/8"
holes
1/2"
holes centered from top to bottom
20"
10"
hole
11/2" hole 3/4" deep
1/2" flat washer
60"
10" F
11/2" hole 3/4" deep with a 1/2" hole centered inside
F F
F
F
Page 5 of 11 TM
7 Spread glue on the the mating matingedges, edges,
base. previously drilled drilled base. Using Using the previously holes (C)(C) as guides, drill holesininthe therails rails as guides, six ‰" pilot holes 1" deep into the drill six ‰" pilot holes 1" deep bottom of the benchtop asseminto theside bottom side of the benchbly. holes in theholes rail are slightly top The assembly. The in the rail oversized to oversized allow the lag screws to are slightly to allow the move with thetoexpansion and conlag screws move with the traction of the Using ‹" expansion andbenchtop. contraction of the lag screws and flat ‹" washers, fasten benchtop. Using lag screws the the top.fasten the base andbase flat to washers, 3to Add the the top. finish to all surfaces. (We applied three to coats Watco 3 Add the finish all of surfaces. Natural Danish Oil Finish.) (We applied three coats of Watco 4Natural Drill the mounting holes, and add Danish Oil Finish.) a4 vise the instructions proDrillusing the mounting holes, and vided vise.the instructions add awith visethe using 5provided Mark and withdrill the ‡" vise.dog (Seeholes the through the for benchtop, Buying Guide our source.)where shown Dog‡"Hole 5 Markonandthedrill dog Layout holes drawing page 7. throughonthe benchtop, where 6shown If you use round on the same Dog type HoleofLayout bench dogs did,7.mark the layout drawing onwe page for dog use holder on a type pieceof of 6 the If you the(G) same 1„" roundmaple. benchMark dogsthe wecenterpoints did, mark
and clamp the three three sections sections edgeedgeto-edge, using pipe clamps clamps and and the the all-thread rod with nuts nuts and and flat flat washers attached. Check that that the the surfaces are areflush. flush. a surfaces (We(We usedused a ratchratchet to tighten the fi" nuts on et to tighten the fi" nuts on the the all-thread Alternate all-thread rod.)rod.) Alternate backback and and forth between clamps forth between the the clamps andand the the nuts on threaded the threaded for nuts on the rods rods for even even clamping pressure. clamping pressure. remaining two two top top 8 Glue the remaining pieces (F) to the edges edges of of the the top top assembly to hide the the holes holes and and threaded rods. 9 Scrape off the excess excess glue, glue, then then belt-sand both surfaces of belt-sand of the the benchtop flat. 10 Fit your your portable portable circular circular saw with a carbide-tipped carbide-tipped blade. blade. Clamp a straightedge straightedge to to the the benchtop, and trim fi" fi" off off one one end of the benchtop. benchtop. Repeat Repeat at at end. the other end. Finishing up 1 Finish-sand the base and top. 2 Center the benchtop benchtop assembly assembly on the base. Clamp the the top top to to the the
for dogs and screws. thethe layout for the themounting dog holder (G) Bore holesoffor1„" the dogs, andMark then on athe piece maple. cut dog holder to Next,and drill thethe centerpoints forshape. the dogs the sand smooth, and themounting mountingholes, screws. Bore the holes apply thedogs, finish.and Finally, thedog dog for the thenscrew cut the holder theshape. leg nearest the drill vise. the holdertoto Next, mounting holes, sand smooth, and Buying Guide apply the finish. Finally, screw the Round bench dogs. Solid brass, with dog holder to the leg nearest the vise. wire springs allowing for height adjustment. Catalog no. 911-194. Buying Guide Woodworker’s 5604 Woodworker’sSupply, Vise. Inc., Cast-iron Alameda Place NE, Albuquerque, NM jaws, predrilled mounting holes, 87113. callretractable 800/645-9292 to 34 lbs.,Orwith "dog," order.¿ catalog no. 9GT51785. Available at or order through Sears stores nationwide. Round bench dogs. Solid brass, with wire springs allowing for height adjustment. Catalog no. 911-194. Woodworker’s Supply, Inc., 5604 Alameda Place NE, Albuquerque, NM 87113. Or call 800/645-9292 to order.¿
F 61" rough length Reference line for last hole
DRILL-GUIDE FENCE Centerline of drill bit 11/8" Reference line for first hole 101/2"
Reference line for middle hole
101/2"
3/4
x 8 x 80" plywood
20"
11/2 x 3 x 80" Fence
Reference mark
1 x 2 nailed to end for support
Page 6 of 11 TM
DOG HOLDER 7/8"
3/4"
13/4"
11/8" 3/4"
R=1/4"
G 25/8"
3/8"
3/8"
hole 1/4" deep with 5/32" hole centered inside
#8 x 3" drywall screw
DOG HOLE LAYOUT Vise
3/4"
33/4"
7"
7"
Vise centerline
holes
7"
5"
293/4"
Page 7 of 11 TM
Center benchtop over base. 293/4"
60"
Drill 3/16" pilot holes 1" deep on bottom of bench to mate with lag screws.
F
Do not chamfer top edges. 1/4"
C
1/4
flat washer
C
x 21/2" lag screw A
A
A
331/2"
D G
E
D
8" E
38" B A
1/4"
chamfers
TENON DETAIL 1/4"
chamfers
1/4"
D 11/2" 31/2"
B 1/2"
1/4"
1/4"
EXPLODED VIEW
1/4" 1/2"
23/4" 3"
Page 8 of 11 TM
CUTTING DIAGRAM
A
A
2 x 10 x 12' Pine or Fir
C 2 x 10 x 8' Pine or Fir D B
B 2 x 10 x 12' Pine or Fir
G
F 11/16 x 91/4 x 72" Maple (7 pieces)
Page 9 of 11 TM
Bill of Materials T
W
Matl.
Qty.
Finished Size
A* legs
3"
3"
331/4" LP
4
B* feet
3"
31/4"
291/2" LP
2
C* rails
3"
11/2"
28"
LP
2
D stretchers
11/2"
31/2"
44"
P
2
E* wedges F* top pieces G dog holder
3/8"
1" 21/4'' 13/4''
31/4" 60'' 25/8''
Part
11/16" 11/16''
L
DH 8 M 28 M 1
*Initially cut parts marked with * oversized in width. Trim to finished size according to the howto instructions. Materials Key: LP–laminated pine, P–pine, DH–dark hardwood, M–maple. Supplies: 3–1/2'' all-thread rods 27 1/4'' long, 6–1/2'' nuts, 6–1/2'' flat washers, 6–1/4x21/2'' lag screws, 1/4'' flat washers, clear finish.
Page 10 of 11 TM
PARTS VIEW o
45
FOOT SIDE VIEW
23/4"
1/4"
R=1/4"
31/4"
23/4"
3"
B
R=1/4"
31/4"
291/4"
RAIL TOP VIEW
3/8" 3/8"
holes
11/2"
C
121/2"
11/2"
hole
11/2" 121/2"
11/2"
28"
31/4"
3/8"
E 1/16"
WEDGE FULL-SIZE PATTERN
To ensure full-size patterns are correct size, your printer should be set to print at 100% (not fit to page). Measure full-size patterns to verify size.
‹”
fi”
‡”
1”
Produced by Marlen Kemmet Project Design: James R. Downing Illustrations: Kim Downing Graphic Design: Lorna Johnson Photographs: Wm. Hopkins ©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2001
Page 11 of 11 TM
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