COLLECTION FW16
BIRK • CARDIGAN BY O LG A B U R AYA- K E F E L I A N
SIZE
To fit bust 32 (36, 40, 44, 48)" FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
43 (47, 51, 55, 59)" bust circumference YA R N
Woolfolk Får (100% Ovis 21 Ultimate Merino®, 142 yds/130 m per 50 g skein) 11 (13, 14, 15, 16) skeins in color no. 1 Woolfolk Sno (100% Ovis 21 Ultimate Merino®, 223 yds/205 m per 50 g skein) 6 (7, 8, 8, 9) skeins in color no. 1+15 NEEDLES AND NOTIONS
Size 8 (5 mm) circular needle, 24" or longer Size 9 (5.5 mm) circular needle, 24" or longer Stitch markers, tapestry needle, waste yarn, stitch holders Size I (5.5 mm) crochet hook 8 (8, 8.5, 8.5, 9)" of ½" wide grosgrain ribbon or twill tape Sewing needle and thread GAUGE
16 sts and 25 rows = 4" in St st on larger needle with one strand of each yarn held together, blocked NOTES
Body is worked in one piece to the underarm, then divided and fronts and back worked separately to the shoulder. Circular needles are used to accommodate the width of the piece. Shoulders are shaped with German short rows, then joined using a three-needle bind off. Sleeves are worked flat from the wrist up and seamed. Ribbed front bands are knitted in one with the body. Work with one strand of each yarn held together throughout.
Copyright © 2016. Woolfolk and Olga Buraya-Kefelian. All rights reserved. The pattern and charts contained in this document are property of Woolfolk and Olga Buraya-Kefelian. This pattern is available for personal use only. Unauthorized reproduction, in whole or in part, or distribution via copier, fax or via email is prohibited. Not to be used to create garments for commercial sale. www.woolfolkyarn.com
PA G E 2
BIRK CARDIGAN
STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES CROCHET CHAIN CAST ON
THREE NEEDLE BIND OFF
With crochet hook, make a slip knot loop. Holding the knitting needle in your left hand, and the crochet hook in your right hand, bring the yarn behind the needle. *With the crochet hook in front of the needle, wrap the yarn over the needle and the hook, and pull loop through. 1 st has been cast on the needle. Bring the yarn back between the needle and hook and repeat from * until you have cast on the required number of stitches less one. For the final stitch, transfer the loop from the crochet hook to the needle.
Have the two pieces to be joined on separate needles held together in the left hand with right sides facing. Using a third needle, insert into first st on front needle, then first st on back needle and knit them together. *Insert into next st on front needle, then next st on back needle and knit them together, then pass first st on right needle over second to BO 1 st. Repeat from *.
K 1 , P 1 R I B ( M U LT I P L E O F 2 S T S + 1 )
Row 1 (RS): Sl 1 pwise wyib, *p1, k1; rep from * to end. Row 2 (WS): Sl 1 pwise wyif, *k1, p1; rep from * to end. Rep Rows 1-2 for patt.
DIRECTIONS B O DY
Using the crochet chain method, smaller needle, and one strand of each yarn held together, CO 181 (197, 213, 229, 245) sts. Work in K1, P1 Rib for 2”, ending with a WS row.
GERMAN SHORT ROWS
German wrap: Sl 1 pwise wyif, pull yarn up and over needle to back, drawing the two "legs" of the slipped stitch up. This creates what looks like a double stitch. When you work back over the double stitch later, knit or purl it through both legs.
PA G E 3
Change to larger needle. Set-up row (RS): Work in established rib for 12 sts, pm for front band, k33 (37, 41, 45, 49), pm for side, p1, k1, p1, pm for side, k42 (46, 50, 54, 58), ssk, k41 (45, 49, 53, 57), pm for side, p1, k1, p1, pm for side, k33 (37, 41, 45, 49), pm for front band, work in
established rib to end. 1 st dec’d; 180 (196, 212, 228, 244) sts. Next row (WS): Work in established rib to band m, sl m, [p to side m, sl m, k1, p1, k1, sl m] twice, p to band m, sl m, work in rib to end. Continue as set, working body in St st with front bands and a 3-st panel at each side in rib, until piece measures 9" from CO, ending with a WS row. Pocket openings:
(Optional; also note that our model is 5'11" with correspondingly long arms, so those of average height may like their pockets higher, perhaps at 10" from CO.) Next row (RS): Work to band m, sl m, k10 (12, 14, 16, 18), knit the next 17 sts with waste yarn, then place those waste yarn sts back onto left needle and knit them with main yarn, work across remainder of right front and back to last side m, sl m, k6 (8, 10, 12, 14), knit the next 17 sts with waste yarn, then place those waste yarn sts back onto left needle and knit them with main yarn, work to end.
S C H E M AT I C Work even until body measures 20" from CO, ending with a WS row.
7.5 (8.5, 9.25, 10.25, 11)" 7 (7, 7.5, 7.5, 8)"
24"
7 (7.5, 8, 8.5, 9)"
4.75"
15.75 (16.25, 16.75, 17.25, 17.75)"
Shape V-neck:
Neck dec row (RS): Work to band m, sl m, k1, k2tog, work to 3 sts before second band m, ssk, k1, sl m, work to end. 2 sts dec'd. Work 17 (17, 17, 17, 15) rows even. Repeat neck dec row. 176 (192, 208, 224, 240) sts. Work 7 (7, 7, 7, 9) rows even, ending with a WS row. Body should measure approx. 24" from CO.
Sizes - (47, 51, 55, 59)" only: Short row 1 (WS): Work to last st, turn. Short row 2 (RS): German wrap first st, work to end. Short row 3: Work to 1 st before previous wrapped st, turn. Short row 4: German wrap first st, work to end. Rep the last 2 rows - (10, 7, 3, 0) more times. Next short row (WS): Work to 2 sts before previous wrapped st, turn. Next short row (RS): German wrap first st, work to end. Rep the last 2 rows - (2, 5, 9, 12) more times. All sizes:
Divide fronts and back (RS): Work to first side m, remove m, m1R, k2, place the 46 (50, 54, 58, 62) sts on right needle on a holder for right front leaving band m in place, k1, m1L, remove m, work across back to side m, remove m, m1R, k1, place the 88 (96, 104, 112, 120) sts on right needle on a holder for back, k2, m1L, remove m, work to end. 46 (50, 54, 58, 62) sts rem on needle for left front.
Neckband:
Next row (WS): Work to band m, remove m, place the next 30 (34, 37, 41, 44) sts on a holder for shoulder. 12 band sts rem on needle. Change to smaller needle and work even in rib for 3.5 (3.5, 3.75, 3.75, 4)". Cut yarn and place sts on a separate holder. RIGHT FRONT
LEFT FRONT
Read through this section before continuing: neck and shoulder shaping are worked simultaneously.
21.5 (23.5, 25.5, 27.5, 29.5)"
13.25 (14.25, 15.25, 16.25, 17.25)"
Continuing in St st with band sts in rib, work 9 (9, 9, 9, 5) rows even, ending with a WS row. Neck dec row (RS): Work to 3 sts before band m, ssk, k1, sl m work to end. 1 st dec'd. Rep neck dec row on every 18 (18, 16, 16, 16)th row 3 (3, 4, 4, 2) more times, then every - (-, -, -, 14)th row - (-, -, -, 3) times. 42 (46, 49, 53, 56) sts.
18"
AT THE SAME TIME, when armhole measures 7 (7.5, 8, 8.5, 9)" ending with a RS row, shape shoulder:
8.25 (8.75, 9.25, 9.75, 10.25)"
PA G E 4
Size 43" only: Short row 1 (WS): Work to last st, turn. Short row 2 (RS): German wrap first st, work to end. Short row 3: Work to previous wrapped st, turn. Short row 4: German wrap first st, work to end. Short row 5: Work to 1 st before previous wrapped st, turn. Short row 6: German wrap first st, work to end. Rep the last 2 rows 12 more times.
Read through this section before continuing: neck and shoulder shaping are worked simultaneously. Place 46 (50, 54, 58, 62) held sts on needle and join yarn with WS facing. Shape neck:
Continuing in St st with band sts in rib, work 9 (9, 9, 9, 5) rows even, ending with a WS row. Neck dec row (RS): Work to band m, sl m, k1, k2tog, work to end. 1 st dec'd. Rep neck dec row on every 18 (18, 16, 16, 16)th row 3 (3, 4, 4, 2) more times, then every - (-, -, -, 14)th row - (-, -, -, 3) times. 42 (46, 49, 53, 56) sts. AT THE SAME TIME, when armhole measures 7 (7.5, 8, 8.5, 9)" ending with a WS row, shape shoulder: Size 43" only: Short row 1 (RS): Work to last st, turn. Short row 2 (WS): German wrap first st, work to end. Short row 3: Work to previous wrapped st, turn. Short row 4: German wrap first st, work to end.
Short row 5: Work to 1 st before previous wrapped st, turn. Short row 6: German wrap first st, work to end. Rep the last 2 rows 12 more times. Sizes - (47, 51, 55, 59)" only: Short row 1 (RS): Work to last st, turn. Short row 2 (WS): German wrap first st, work to end. Short row 3: Work to 1 st before previous wrapped st, turn. Short row 4: German wrap first st, work to end. Rep the last 2 rows - (10, 7, 3, 0) more times. Next short row (RS): Work to 2 sts before previous wrapped st, turn. Next short row (WS): German wrap first st, work to end. Rep the last 2 rows - (2, 5, 9, 12) more times. All sizes: Neckband:
Next row (RS): Work to band m, remove m, place the next 30 (34, 37, 41, 44) sts on a holder for shoulder. 12 band sts rem on needle. Change to smaller needle and work even in rib for 3.5 (3.5, 3.75, 3.75, 4)". Cut yarn leaving a tail four times the width of the band. Thread tail on tapestry needle and graft left and right bands together. BACK
Replace 88 (96, 104, 112, 120) held sts on needle and join yarn with WS facing. Work even in St st until armholes measure 7 (7.5, 8, 8.5, 9)”, ending with a WS row. Shape shoulders:
Size 43" only: Short row 1 (RS): Work to last st, turn. Short row 2 (WS): German wrap first st, work to last st, turn. Short row 3: German wrap first st, work to previous wrapped st, turn. Short row 4: German wrap first st, work to previous wrapped st, turn. Short row 5: German wrap first st, work to 1 st before previous wrapped st, turn. Short row 6: German wrap first st, work to 1 st before previous wrapped st, turn. Rep the last 2 rows 12 more times.
PA G E 5
Sizes - (47, 51, 55, 59)" only: Short row 1 (RS): Work to last st, turn. Short row 2 (WS): German wrap first st, work to last st, turn. Short row 3 (RS): German wrap first st, work to 1 st before previous wrapped st, turn. Short row 4 (WS): German wrap first st, work to 1 st before previous wrapped st, turn. Rep the last 2 rows - (10, 7, 3, 0) more times. Next short row (RS): German wrap first st, work to 2 sts before previous wrapped st, turn. Next short row (WS): German wrap first st, work to 2 sts before previous wrapped st, turn. Rep the last 2 rows - (2, 5, 9, 12) more times. All sizes: Next row (RS): German wrap first st, BO 28 (28, 30, 30, 32) sts. Cut yarn and place rem 30 (34, 37, 41, 44) sts for each shoulder on holders. SLEEVES
Using the crochet chain method and smaller needle, CO 33 (35, 37, 39, 41) sts. Work in K1, P1 Rib for 1.75”, ending with a WS row. Change to larger needle and St st. Work 8 (8, 6, 6, 6) rows even. Inc row (RS): K2, m1L, k to last 2 sts, m1R, k2. 2 sts inc'd. Inc 1 st at each end of every 9 (8, 7, 7, 6)th row 9 (9, 5, 11, 8) more times, then every - (9, 8, 6, 7)th row - (1, 6, 1, 5) times, working WS inc rows as: P2, m1LP, p to last 2 sts, m1RP, p2. 53 (57, 61, 65, 69) sts. Work even until sleeve measures 18" from CO. BO.
FINISHING POCKET TRIM
Carefully remove waste yarn from pocket opening, revealing 17 sts on the lower edge and 18 sts on the top edge. Place the 18 top sts on a holder for pocket lining. Place 17 lower sts on smaller needle. With RS facing, pick up and knit 1 st at right-hand side of opening, [p1, k1] 8 times, p1, pick up and
knit 1 st at left-hand side of opening. 19 sts. Beg with a WS row, work in K1, P1 Rib for 6 rows. BO all sts in rib using larger needle. POCKET LINING
Place 18 held sts on smaller needle with WS facing. Pick up and knit 1 st at right-hand side of opening, p18, pick up and knit 1 st at left-hand side of opening. 20 sts. Continue in St st for 5”. BO. Steam-block pocket. With a single strand of Sno threaded on a tapestry needle, slip stitch the short edges of the trim to the RS of the coat and slip stitch the pocket lining in place on the WS, taking care not to let stitches show on RS. Join shoulders using a three needle bind off, taking care to knit through both legs of each double stitch left from the short row shaping. Using a single strand of Sno, mattress stitch the neckband in place along the back neck, matching grafted seam to center back. Block body and sleeves to schematic measurements. Using a single strand of Sno, sew sleeve seams. Set sleeves into armholes. Fold under ½" on each end of ribbon and use needle and thread to sew in place across back neck from shoulder seam to shoulder seam, slip stitching along both long edges.
A B B R E V I AT I O N S BO CO dec(s/'d) inc(s/'d) k k2tog kwise m m1L m1LP m1p m1R m1RP p patt pm pwise rem rep RS sl ssk St st st(s) WS wyib wyif
PA G E 6
bind off cast on decrease(s)/decreased increase(s)/increased knit knit 2 sts together knitwise/as if to knit marker make 1 left: with right needle, pick up running thread between needles from back to front and place it on left needle, then knit it through the back loop make 1 left purl: pick up running thread as for m1L, purl it through the back loop make 1 purl: with right needle, pick up running thread between needles from front to back, place on left needle, purl it through the front loop. make 1 right: with right needle, pick up running thread between needles from front to back, place on left needle, knit it through the front loop make 1 right purl: pick up running thread as for m1R, purl it through the front loop purl pattern place marker purlwise/as if to purl remain(s) repeat right side slip [slip 1 as if to knit] 2 times, insert left needle into fronts of these sts and knit them together stockinette stitch stitch(es) wrong side with yarn in back with yarn in front
