Defects fit skirts and their correction
If you sew a skirt for the first time, and the figure has features that you have not considered when building bui lding a basic
skirt pattern, such as "peregibistaya" back or rounded belly, even the exact pattern does not guarantee the perfect fit of the product. At the first fitting, you'll likely find minor defects landing. Such defects can be corrected by following our advice. In order to have a supply of tissue on the adjustment patterns, when cutting the skirt seam allowances recommended 2.5 cm. After removing the defect allowances must be cut to 1.5 cm, and then neaten. IMPORTANT! The
basic pattern does not guarantee perfect fit product, if it does not include the construction features of the figure. We suggest you familiarize yourself with the basic defects landing skirts and ways to correct them.
protuberant abdomen As a result of this defect d efect having horizontal folds and creases, skirt seems narrow at the top.
Fig. 1. Defects landing skirts - bulging belly How to fix?
On the rear panel of the skirt tuck down the side seam on the 1.5-2 cm, add a second block and tackle tuck depth of 1.5-2 cm 2 cm shorter than the first. Place two darts symmetrically on a traveling shear at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other. Give tuck slightly curved shape. The front half skirt reduce tuck on the side seam by 1.5-2 cm. Traveling tuck position for the traveling cent cut front cloth skirts.Increase solution of tackle darts at 0, 75-1 cm on each side, tuck shape gives a slightly curved curve d shape. Raise the traveling cutoff line at 0, 5 cm.
A disadvantage of volume at the bottom of the skirt With such a defect occur oblique obliqu e creases from the center of the side seams of the skirt.
Fig. 2. The lack of volume in the bottom of the skirt How to fix?
Follow oblique incision from the top of the back middle seam halves to line the side seam as shown in the drawing. Slide the panel to the depth of the crease. Extend the side seam line from the upper part of the line perpendicular to the bottom of the product. Adjustment of the front cloth skirts make the same way.
Schlitsa incision or diverge towards the bottom In this defect, or both sides of the slots cut in different directions. Such a defect may occur for the following reasons: violation of the structure of the traveling cutting
back the cloth, the lack of volume on the hips or both causes simultaneously.
Fig. 3 Schlitsa incision or diverge towards the bottom How to fix?
Lower the rear section of the traveling cloth 1-1.5 cm. Increase the width of the back cloth to the desired width. If necessary, an extension on the side of the front cloth.
Asymmetrical layout items in a side view With this defect skirt strongly adheres to the front or rear legs, the bottom line is not parallel to the floor. floo r. The defect is caused by violation of the structure of the traveling products section.
Fig. 4. Asymmetrical arrangement of articles in side view How to fix?
To correct a defect of the front abutment lower line of the traveling cutting the front halves of the skirt 1 cm. Spend a new line of the traveling section.
Ad hidden.
To fix the rear abutment defect lower line of the traveling cutting back halves of the skirt 1 cm. Spend a new line of the traveling section.
Convex hip In this particular figure oblique creases occur in the hips, there is a lack of volume.
Fig. 5. Convex hip How to fix?
Correct necessary and rear and the front cloth skirts. Spend a vertical and horizontal dashed auxiliary lines, cut the pattern along the lines, and open to a depth of wrinkles (usually enough 1-2 cm). Spend new side line and the waistline.
Flat buttocks, flat hip In this particular figure there are horizontal creases in the back area below the belt. This Th is occurs as a consequence of the deep side of the traveling and darts.
Fig. 6. The flat buttocks, hips flat How to fix?
On the rear panel skirts reduce the depth of the block and tackle and side darts. Perform a new line and the traveling side seams. The front half skirt adjust only the side seam line by reducing the depth of the side darts.
Creases in the upper part of the side seams Such creases may occur due to too convex side seam at the top of the product - from the waist to the hips, there are creases.
Fig. 7. Creases in the upper part of the side seams How to fix?
Correct this defect is quite simple. Excess tissue, remove the side seams, adjust the side seam line in the hips.
Convex buttocks In this particular figure there is a lack of rear cloth volume skirts, oblique creases on the rear panel, the rear half of converging upwards, seen from the side there is a violation of the parallelism of the product bottom floor.
Fig. 8. Convex buttocks How to fix?
Apply on the rear panel auxiliary skirt dotted lines. Cut a piece on the planned lines, spread the length of the missing on the (usually quite 1.5-2 cm). Spend the side line and the line of the back halves of the skirt waist. Excess volume at the waist transferred to the second tuck, tuck position the two symmetrically cut on a traveling tr aveling distance of 3-4 cm from each other.
Excess volume at side seams Due to this defect seems to skirt wide, there are vertical coattails. The defect occurs when too big b ig a raise to freedom customized fit in the calculation of basic patterns.
Fig. 9. Excess volume at side seams How to fix?
Remove the excess volume in the side seams. Surplus cut the allowances, allowances neaten. Sew beautiful things and wear them with pleasure! p leasure!
