OptiTex PDS User Manual

SGS SG S Digi Digiti tize ze™, PDS™ & Grade™ User User’s ’s Manu Manual al

SCANVEC GARMENT SYSTEMS SOFTWARE LICENSE AGREEMENT

This agreement gives you certain rights and duties regarding the Software Program, the User’s Guides and the copy protection key (the “Key”) that you are licensing from Scanvec Garment Systems Ltd. (“Scanvec Garment Systems”). The Software Program, the User’s Guides and the Key will be referred together here as the “Licensed Materials”.

1. License grant and termination. Scanvec Garment Systems grants you personal, non-transferable, non-exclusive license to use the Licensed Materials for the ordinary purposes of your business. If you breach any terms of this Agreement, this license will immediately terminate and you must promptly return the Licensed Materials to Scanvec Garment Systems. The Licensed Materials are proprietary products of Scanvec Garment Systems, and Scanvec Garment Systems retain title to and ownership of the Licensed Materials.

2. Scanvec Garment Systems copyright, etc. no copies or transfer, etc. You acknowledge that the Licensed Materials are protected by copyrights held by Scanvec Garment Systems’ parent company. You acknowledge that Licensed Materials embody trade secrets owned by Scanvec Garment Systems’ parent company. You may not copy any part of the Licensed Materials for any purpose. You may not disassemble, decompile, reverse engineer or otherwise modify, tamper with or make changes to the Licensed Materials under any circumstances. You may not rent, lease, loan, assign or transfer the Licensed Material to any third party. You may not allow any third party to use the Licensed Materials or to make copies of them. You may not use the Software Program without the Key. You may not emulate, duplicate, replace or modify the Key.

3. Warranty, disclaims, remedies. Scanvec Garment Systems warrants that the Media containing the Software Program (the “CD’s”) are free from defects of materials and workmanship. SCANVEC GARMENT SYSTEMS DISCLAIM ALL OTHER EXPRESS AND IMPLIED WARRANTIES REGARDING THE CD’s AND THE LICENSED MATERIALS. You agree that your only remedy for any breach of the above warranty will be that if you discover any defects in the CD’s within three months after receiving them, Scanvec Garment Systems will replace the defective CD’s with non-defective CD’s.

4. No damages beyond Purchase Price. You agree that if, in connection with your use of the Licensed Materials, you incur direct or indirect injury of any kind, including injury to persons or property or lost profits, Scanvec Garment Systems shall be liable to you only for the Product Price. In no event will Scanvec Garment Systems, its stockholders, directors, officers or employees be liable to you for any damages, including lost profits or other incidental or consequential damages arising out of your use or inability to use the Licensed Materials.

Copyright 2001, Scanvec Garment Systems ALL RIGHTS RESERVE

SCANVEC GARMENT SYSTEMS SOFTWARE LICENSE AGREEMENT

This agreement gives you certain rights and duties regarding the Software Program, the User’s Guides and the copy protection key (the “Key”) that you are licensing from Scanvec Garment Systems Ltd. (“Scanvec Garment Systems”). The Software Program, the User’s Guides and the Key will be referred together here as the “Licensed Materials”.

1. License grant and termination. Scanvec Garment Systems grants you personal, non-transferable, non-exclusive license to use the Licensed Materials for the ordinary purposes of your business. If you breach any terms of this Agreement, this license will immediately terminate and you must promptly return the Licensed Materials to Scanvec Garment Systems. The Licensed Materials are proprietary products of Scanvec Garment Systems, and Scanvec Garment Systems retain title to and ownership of the Licensed Materials.

2. Scanvec Garment Systems copyright, etc. no copies or transfer, etc. You acknowledge that the Licensed Materials are protected by copyrights held by Scanvec Garment Systems’ parent company. You acknowledge that Licensed Materials embody trade secrets owned by Scanvec Garment Systems’ parent company. You may not copy any part of the Licensed Materials for any purpose. You may not disassemble, decompile, reverse engineer or otherwise modify, tamper with or make changes to the Licensed Materials under any circumstances. You may not rent, lease, loan, assign or transfer the Licensed Material to any third party. You may not allow any third party to use the Licensed Materials or to make copies of them. You may not use the Software Program without the Key. You may not emulate, duplicate, replace or modify the Key.

3. Warranty, disclaims, remedies. Scanvec Garment Systems warrants that the Media containing the Software Program (the “CD’s”) are free from defects of materials and workmanship. SCANVEC GARMENT SYSTEMS DISCLAIM ALL OTHER EXPRESS AND IMPLIED WARRANTIES REGARDING THE CD’s AND THE LICENSED MATERIALS. You agree that your only remedy for any breach of the above warranty will be that if you discover any defects in the CD’s within three months after receiving them, Scanvec Garment Systems will replace the defective CD’s with non-defective CD’s.

4. No damages beyond Purchase Price. You agree that if, in connection with your use of the Licensed Materials, you incur direct or indirect injury of any kind, including injury to persons or property or lost profits, Scanvec Garment Systems shall be liable to you only for the Product Price. In no event will Scanvec Garment Systems, its stockholders, directors, officers or employees be liable to you for any damages, including lost profits or other incidental or consequential damages arising out of your use or inability to use the Licensed Materials.

Copyright 2001, Scanvec Garment Systems ALL RIGHTS RESERVE

Table of Contents Contents Chapter 1: Introduction Introduction and Installation Installation Procedures ________________ ______________________ ______ 1 Welcome to OptiTex! _____________________________________________ ____________________________________________________ _______ 1 How to Use This Book ___________________ ______________________________________ ________________________________ _____________ 2 Package Contents _________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________ ______ 3 Registration_____________________________________________________ Registration_________________________________ ___________________________ _______ 3 Help Services Services Provided ____________________ __________________________________________ ______________________________ ________ 3 Technical Support __________________________________ ____________________________________________________ ____________________ __ 4 Installing OptiTex________________________________________________ OptiTex_______________________________________________________ _______ 5 Configuring OptiTex to Your Plotter Plotter ____________________________________ _______________________________________ ___ 9 Configuring Output Output Control Center (OCC) as output manger _________________ _________________ 12 Setting Up a Plotter ____________________ ________________________________________ ________________________________ ____________ 15

Chapter 2: Icons and Tool Bars______________ Bars______________________ _______________ _______________ __________ __ 17 The Tools __________________________________ _____________________________________________________ ___________________________17 ________17 Grading Toolbar _____________________________________ _______________________________________________________21 __________________21 Equal X Grading (Ctrl + G + E) __________________________________________24 System Toolbar ____________________________________ ______________________________________________________ ____________________31 __31 Insert Toolbar _____________________________________ _______________________________________________________ ____________________34 __34 Edit Notch Dialog Box: _____________________________________ __________________________________________________39 _____________39

The Edit Toolbar ___________________________________ ______________________________________________________ ___________________ 73 The Modify Toolbar ____________________________________ ____________________________________________________ ________________ 85 The Darts Toolbar Toolbar ___________________________________ _____________________________________________________ __________________ 90 The General Toolbar Toolbar ____________________________________ ___________________________________________________ _______________ 95 The Advanced Toolbar___________________________ Toolbar_____________________________________________ ______________________ ____ 102 The Dimensional Dimensional Toolbar Toolbar ___________________________________ ______________________________________________ ___________ 103 The Accessories Toolbar ___________________________________ _______________________________________________ ____________ 107 The Template Basic Basic Shapes Toolbar: Toolbar: ___________________ _____________________________________ __________________ 123 The Template Template Toolbar: ____________________________________ ________________________________________________ ____________ 124

Chapter 3: File Menu _______________ _______________________ ________________ ________________ _______________ _______ 125 New (Ctrl+N): _________________________________ ___________________________________________________ _______________________ _____ 125 Open (Ctrl+O)_________________________________________________ (Ctrl+O)________________________________________________________ _______ 126 Merge Style File ____________________ ________________________________________ __________________________________ ______________ 128 History ______________________________________ _________________________________________________________ ________________________ _____ 131 File Finder Finder ___________________ ______________________________________ ______________________________________ _____________________ __ 134 Save ___________________________________ _____________________________________________________ _____________________________ ___________ 144 Save As____________________ As______________________________________ ___________________________________ ________________________ _______ 145 Digitize___________________ Digitize ______________________________________ ______________________________________ ________________________ _____ 147 Digitizer Setup _____________________________________ _______________________________________________________ __________________ 163 OptiTex Panel commands:____________________________________________ commands:______________________________________________ __ 166 Digitizer Dialog Box: _____________________________________ __________________________________________________ _____________ 194

Export to CAD/CAM files ______________________________________________197 Import from CAD/CAM Files ___________________________________________201 Layers Table Dialog Box: ___________________ ______________________________________ ____________________________212 _________212 Dictionary Dialog Box: ________________________________________________ _________________________________________________214 _214 SGS Modulate ____________________________________ _______________________________________________________ ____________________217 _217 Plot ___________________________________ ______________________________________________________ ______________________________219 ___________219 Plotting Options for Graded Pieces_______________________________________243 Plotter Setup _________________________________________________________244 Print ___________________ _____________________________________ _____________________________________ ___________________________246 ________246 Printer Setup ___________________ _____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________248 __248 Report to Excel and E-Mail utilities ______________________________________249 Exit (Alt+F4) ____________________________________ _______________________________________________________ _____________________253 __253

Chapter 4: Edit Menu ________________ ________________________ ________________ _______________ _____________ ______ 255 Undo (Ctrl+Z) __________________________________ _____________________________________________________ ______________________255 ___255 Redo (Ctrl+Y) ______________________________________ ________________________________________________________255 __________________255 Cut Current Piece (Ctrl+X) _____________________________________________255 Copy Pieces __________________________________________________________256 Paste Piece (Ctrl+V) ___________________________________________________257 Copy/Paste Internals___________________ Internals________________________________________ ________________________________258 ___________258 Clear Selected Pieces___________________________________________________258 Pieces___________________________________________________258 Clear Selected Piece ____________________ _________________________________________ _______________________________259 __________259 Replace Old: _____________________________________ ________________________________________________________ ____________________259 _259 Remove Current _____________________________________ ______________________________________________________260 _________________260 Make New ___________________________________ _____________________________________________________ ________________________260 ______260 Move Base Line ___________________ ______________________________________ ____________________________________261 _________________261 Delete Piece (Del)_________________________ (Del)____________________________________________ _____________________________263 __________263 Attributes (Enter) ____________________ _______________________________________ _________________________________265 ______________265 Add Relative _____________________________________ ________________________________________________________ ____________________268 _268 Align Points __________________________________ _____________________________________________________ ________________________274 _____274 Round Corner __________________________________ ___________________________________________________ ______________________275 _____275 Extend Internal ___________________ ______________________________________ ____________________________________276 _________________276 Segment ___________________ ______________________________________ ______________________________________ _______________________277 ____277 Make Pieces ___________________ ______________________________________ ______________________________________ ____________________283 _283 Video___________________________________ Video_________________ _____________________________________ _____________________________285 __________285

Chapter 5: Piece Menu_______ Menu _______________ _______________ _______________ _______________ _______________ ________ 287 Info (Ctrl + I) ___________________ _______________________________________ _____________________________________ _________________ 287 Global Info ___________________ _____________________________________ _____________________________________ _____________________ __ 295 Style Area and Perimeter Values Dialog Box_______________________________ Box_______________________________ 297 Global Change Internals Internals ____________________________________ _______________________________________________ ___________ 299 Global Notch Grading Grading __________________________________ _________________________________________________ _______________ 300 Order of Internals____________________________ Internals_______________________________________________ _________________________ ______ 301 Modify ___________________ ______________________________________ ______________________________________ ________________________ _____ 301 Rotate______________________________________________ Rotate___________________________ ____________________________________ _________________ 301 To Rotate the Baseline: ___________________________________ ________________________________________________ _____________ 303 Flip Horizontal _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________________ ________ 305 Flip Vertical ____________________ _______________________________________ _____________________________________ __________________ 305 Mirror ___________________ ______________________________________ ______________________________________ ________________________ _____ 306 Scale and Shrink________________________________________________ Shrink______________________________________________________ ______ 308 Optimize Cutter Ordering__________________ Ordering ______________________________________ ____________________________ ________ 311 Points Cleanup ____________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________ ___ 312 Set (0,0) Point ___________________________________ _____________________________________________________ _____________________ ___ 314 Start Point _____________________________________ ________________________________________________________ ______________________ ___ 314 Base Parallel to Segment _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ 315 Make New Base Line Line ___________________________________ __________________________________________________ _______________ 317 Guideline Parallel ___________________ _______________________________________ __________________________________ ______________ 318 Seam___________________________________________ Seam_________________________ _____________________________________ _____________________ __ 318 Reseam (F6)____________________________________________________ (F6)__________________________________________________________ ______ 319 Update Notches Notches ___________________________________ _____________________________________________________ ____________________ __ 320

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Digitize, PDS & Grade Manual

Work on Seam (F5) ___________________________________ ____________________________________________________320 _________________320 Switch all Pieces to Cut (F5 + Ctrl) ____________________ _______________________________________322 ___________________322 Switch all Pieces to Sew (F5 + Shift) ______________________________________322 Unseam______________________________________________________________322 Walk ___________________ ______________________________________ ______________________________________ __________________________323 _______323 Switch Direction (F11) _________________________________________________326 Notch Both (F12) _____________________________________ ______________________________________________________327 _________________327 Notch Stationary (F12 + Ctrl) ___________________________________________327 Notch Moving (F12 + Shift) _____________________________________________327 Fabric and Stripes ____________________________________ _____________________________________________________327 _________________327 Fabric Pattern ____________________________________ _______________________________________________________ ____________________328 _328 Relate Piece to Stripes______________________________ Stripes__________________________________________________332 ____________________332 Set Group_______________________________ Group_________________________________________________ _____________________________334 ___________334 Ungroup ____________________________________ ______________________________________________________ _________________________334 _______334

Chapter 6: Grading Menu ________________ _______________________ _______________ ________________ ___________ ___ 335 Stack Point_________________ Point ____________________________________ _____________________________________ _______________________336 _____336 Load Sizes ____________________________________ _______________________________________________________ _______________________337 ____337 Reshape Variation Grading _____________________________________________338 _____________________________________________338 Copy Grading (Ctrl + G, C) ___________________________________ _____________________________________________339 __________339 Relative (Ctrl + G, R) __________________________________________________339 Paste Grading (Ctrl + G, P) _____________________________________________340 Paste X Grading (Ctrl + G, X) ___________________________________ ___________________________________________340 ________340 Paste Y Grading (Ctrl + G, Y) ___________________________________ ___________________________________________340 ________340 Paste Around (Ctrl + G, A) __________________________________ _____________________________________________340 ___________340 Flip X Grading (Ctrl + G, F) ____________________________________________341 Flip Y Grading (Ctrl + G, L) ____________________________________________341 Equal X Grading (Ctrl + G, E) ___________________________________ __________________________________________341 _______341 Equal Y Grading (Ctrl + G, Q) __________________________________________342 Zero Grade (Ctrl + G, Z) _______________________________________________342 Zero X Grade (Ctrl + G, N) _____________________________________________343 Zero Y Grade (Ctrl + G, O) _____________________________________________343 Sizes (Ctrl + G, S) _____________________________________________________344 Change Size Order ____________________________________________________347 Base Size______________________ Size_________________________________________ _____________________________________ ____________________347 __347 Sizes Variation: ___________________________________ _____________________________________________________ ____________________348 __348 Graded Nest ___________________________________ ______________________________________________________ _______________________352 ____352 Grade Proportional___________________ Proportional______________________________________ _________________________________354 ______________354

Chapter 6: Grading Menu ________________ _______________________ _______________ ________________ ___________ ___ 335 Stack Point_________________ Point ____________________________________ _____________________________________ _______________________336 _____336 Load Sizes ____________________________________ _______________________________________________________ _______________________337 ____337 Reshape Variation Grading _____________________________________________338 _____________________________________________338 Copy Grading (Ctrl + G, C) ___________________________________ _____________________________________________339 __________339 Relative (Ctrl + G, R) __________________________________________________339 Paste Grading (Ctrl + G, P) _____________________________________________340 Paste X Grading (Ctrl + G, X) ___________________________________ ___________________________________________340 ________340 Paste Y Grading (Ctrl + G, Y) ___________________________________ ___________________________________________340 ________340 Paste Around (Ctrl + G, A) __________________________________ _____________________________________________340 ___________340 Flip X Grading (Ctrl + G, F) ____________________________________________341 Flip Y Grading (Ctrl + G, L) ____________________________________________341 Equal X Grading (Ctrl + G, E) ___________________________________ __________________________________________341 _______341 Equal Y Grading (Ctrl + G, Q) __________________________________________342 Zero Grade (Ctrl + G, Z) _______________________________________________342 Zero X Grade (Ctrl + G, N) _____________________________________________343 Zero Y Grade (Ctrl + G, O) _____________________________________________343 Sizes (Ctrl + G, S) _____________________________________________________344 Change Size Order ____________________________________________________347 Base Size______________________ Size_________________________________________ _____________________________________ ____________________347 __347 Sizes Variation: ___________________________________ _____________________________________________________ ____________________348 __348 Graded Nest ___________________________________ ______________________________________________________ _______________________352 ____352 Grade Proportional___________________ Proportional______________________________________ _________________________________354 ______________354

Chapter 7: Pleats Menu ____________________________________________ 371 Add Pleat Lines ________________________________ ______________________________________________________371 ______________________371 Add Pleat By Angle ___________________________________________________371 Remove Pleat Lines ___________________________________________________372 Create Box or Knife Knife ___________________________________ ___________________________________________________372 ________________372

Chapter 8: Darts Menu ______________________ __________________________________ _______________________ ___________ 373 Open Dart ___________________________________________________________373 Open Multiple Multiple Darts ___________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _______373 373 Create Dart ____________________________________ __________________________________________________________374 ______________________374 Edit Dart ____________________________________________________________375 Remove Darts ________________________________________________________375 Copy Darts __________________________________________________________375 Paste Darts __________________________________________________________376 Rotate Dart to Point ____________________________________ ___________________________________________________376 _______________376 Rotate Around Center _________________________________________________377 Fix Darts ____________________________________________________________378 Reform Dart _________________________________________________________379

Chapter 9: Design Menu ___________________________________________ 381 Create Parallel________________________________________________________381 Cut Parallel __________________________________________________________383 Segment Length_______________________________________________________384 Hole to Piece / Piece to Hole _____________________________________________387 Point Connection______________________________________________________388 Equal Segments _______________________________________________________390 Custom Fit ___________________________________________________________392 Custom fit tools _______________________________________________________398 Industrial Fabrics _____________________________________________________405 Hole By measure ______________________________________________________408 Create Parallel Cutting_________________________________________________410 Scatter Pieces_________________________________________________________411 Unscatter Pieces ______________________________________________________411 Arrange For Plot______________________________________________________411

Chapter 10: Template Menu_________________________________________ 413 Open Library_________________________________________________________413 Add To Library_______________________________________________________415 Save As______________________________________________________________416 Choose ______________________________________________________________417 Primitive Tools Bar: ___________________________________________________418

Chapter 11: View Menu ____________________________________________ 421 Template Window_____________________________________________________421 Screen Coordinates____________________________________________________421 Rulers _______________________________________________________________422 Pieces Bar____________________________________________________________422 Piece in one scale ______________________________________________________423 Piece List ____________________________________________________________423 Piece Attributes _______________________________________________________424 Bubble Info __________________________________________________________427 Colors by Mode _______________________________________________________427 Base Only (F4)________________________________________________________429 Show Seam (Ctrl + F6) _________________________________________________429 Grading Table ________________________________________________________429 Grading Rules Library_________________________________________________429 Compare Length ______________________________________________________430 Calculator ___________________________________________________________434 Tool Bars ____________________________________________________________435 Status Bar ___________________________________________________________438

Chapter 12: Options Menu __________________________________________ 439 Snap and Selection ____________________________________________________439 Draft Setup __________________________________________________________440 Grid and Stripes ______________________________________________________443 Colors and Line Types _________________________________________________444 Fonts________________________________________________________________447 Working Units ________________________________________________________447 Grading Manually by Edit Tool _________________________________________450 Open Move Point Dialog _______________________________________________450 Open Move Piece Dialog________________________________________________451 Open Create Dialog____________________________________________________451 Auto Reseam _________________________________________________________451 Auto Update Notches __________________________________________________452 Lock Piece (F3) _______________________________________________________452 Preferences___________________________________________________________453

Chapter 13: Help Menu ____________________________________________ 459 Index (F1)____________________________________________________________459 Keyboard Map _______________________________________________________459 Scenario (Ctrl + F1) ___________________________________________________460 Using Help ___________________________________________________________460 Check Plug Protection _________________________________________________460 SGS on Line__________________________________________________________461 Tip of the Day ________________________________________________________461 About OptiTex PDS ___________________________________________________461 Send File_____________________________________________________________462 How to Contact SGS ___________________________________________________464

Chapter 14: Using the Mouse________________________________________ 465 Right Mouse Button ___________________________________________________465 Select Tool ___________________________________________________________466 Edit _________________________________________________________________467 Insert _______________________________________________________________468 Tools ________________________________________________________________469 Zoom _______________________________________________________________470 Transform ___________________________________________________________471 Move Base Line _______________________________________________________473 Delete _______________________________________________________________473 Attribute ____________________________________________________________473 Segment _____________________________________________________________474 Grading _____________________________________________________________475

Chapter 15: Keyboard Commands ____________________________________ 477 SGS Keys commands __________________________________________________477 Cursor Movement Keys ________________________________________________480 Dialog Box Keys ______________________________________________________480 Editing Keys _________________________________________________________481 Help Keys____________________________________________________________481 System Keys__________________________________________________________482 Text Selection Keys____________________________________________________482 keyboard shortcuts ____________________________________________________483 PDS ShortCut Keys____________________________________________________487

Chapter 16: Digitizer Installation ____________________________________ 491 Installing the Numonics AccuGrid _______________________________________491 Configuring the GTCO Calcomp Drawing Board 3 Digitizer _________________495 Installing the Altek Digitizer For Use With SGS Software ___________________496 Installing the GTCO Roll Up Digitizer For Use In SGS software ______________502 Installing the SummaSketch II For Use In the SGS software _________________507 Installing the Summagraphic LCL Digitizer For Use In SGS _________________511 software _____________________________________________________________511 Installing the GTCO 5A DigiPad Digitizer For Use In SGS software___________516 Installing the MicroGrid IV Digitizer For Use In SGS software _______________521 Installing the MicroGrid II Digitizer For Use In SGS software _______________526 Installing the Summagraphic 4 Button Digitizer For Use In SGS software ______530 Installing the SummaSketch Professional Digitizer For Use In SGS software____534 Digitizer Manufacturers _______________________________________________539

Chapter 17: Output Devices Installation_______________________________ 541 Installing Algotex Plotters with SGS Software _____________________________ 541 Hewlett Packard 600 or 700 Ink Jet Plotter _______________________________ 544 Hewlett Packard 750C Ink Jet Plotter____________________________________ 551 Configuring the Hewlett Packard Draftmaster II Plotter ____________________ 560 Ioline 28 Plotter ______________________________________________________ 568 Ioline 600 Plotter _____________________________________________________ 578 Ioline Studio Plotter___________________________________________________ 588 Ioline Stylist Plotter ___________________________________________________ 597 Configuring the Ioline Summit Plotter For Use With SGS Software ___________ 605 Plotter Technology Plotter _____________________________________________ 619 Calcomp TechJet 720 Plotter ___________________________________________ 626 Gerber AP300 and AP310 Plotters_______________________________________ 632 Gerber AP700 Plotter _________________________________________________ 637 NovaJet Plotter_______________________________________________________ 642 Numonics Design Partner 9000 Plotter ___________________________________ 650 Summagraphic HighPlot 7100/7200 Plotter _______________________________ 657 Lectra plotter ________________________________________________________ 664 Configuring the Cutting Edge Cutter ____________________________________ 669 Eastman Cutter ______________________________________________________ 673 Configuring the Gerber Cutter S3250 ____________________________________ 677 Configuring the Gerber Cutter S-91 _____________________________________ 679 Configuring the Gerber Cutter S-93 _____________________________________ 682

Glossary Terms ___________________________________________________ 685

Chapter 1: Introduction and Installation Procedures

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Chapter 1: Introduction and Installation Procedures Welcome to OptiTex! OptiTex is your complete software solution for computerized pattern design, grading and marker making. It was created specifically for the manufacturer of the apparel, transportation interiors, upholstery and sewn products industries. OptiTex’s powerful CAD tools enable you to draft pattern scratch or modify existing pattern quickly and accurately. Simply import a pattern from your favorite CAD/CAM program, create a new pattern using OptiTex’s freehand design tools or utilize OptiTex’s unique digitizing capabilities. With OptiTex’s digitizing function, your pattern appears on your computer screen as you digitize. If you make a mistake, simply erase it with the click of a button. The OptiTex digitizing system is designed to work the way you want to work. You can enter piece perimeters first, then enter notches, internals and other piece information later. It’s quick, easy and compatible with industry standard digitizers. Once your patters have been created and entered, OptiTex provides a multitude of interactive editing tools. The most commonly used design and editing tools are represented as icons in the OptiTex toolbar so you can access commands with the click of a mouse; there’s no need to navigate through a series of pull down menus. Add or remove different types of notches, create darts, add seam allowances pleats and buttons and view everything on screen as you are working. Add, move or delete points of a pattern, or move entire section of a pattern to quickly lengthen or shorten pieces. And obtaining measurement has never been easier. Whether you’re measuring vertically, horizontally, diagonally or between pattern pieces, OptiTex’s measuring tool is as easy to use your own tape measure.


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OptiTex Makes grading pattern pieces quick, simple and automatic is just as interactive as the editing process. Grade any pattern, point by point or globally according to previously stored rules. OptiTex enable you to witness the results immediately on screen. With OptiTex , it’s easy to create your own rule libraries, add new rules or remove old ones. You can even grade internals such as notches, dart, pleats, buttons and lines. When it comes to marker making, OptiTex provides both manual and automatic nesting capabilities to help you design markers quickly and efficiently. In addition, OptiTex gives you the flexibility to change order quintets, substitute size, change marker dimensions and additional patterns to your marker from other styles. Match your pattern piece to specific locations on your striped, plaid or printed materials. With the extensive training and knowledgeable technical support services we offer, we are confident you will find OptiTex to be most users Friendly production tool you have experienced. Thank you choosing OptiTex.

How to Use This Book This manual is design to mirror your computer interface. The chapters are based on the pull down menus and tool icons. To find information in this book, use the index, table file, which allows you to view, print or save pertinent information. The remainder of this chapter is dedicated to explaining the different training and technical support services SGS offer. Lastly, we offer complete installation directions with pictures. Feel confident knowing that you not only purchased the most complete software package for computerized pattern design, grading and marker making, but also that SGS will continue to support you in every way we can.


Package Contents Security Lock

** VERY IMPORTANT** OptiTex will not operate without the Security Lock! Scanvec Garment Systems (SGS) will replace your CD if it is lost, but WILL NOT replace lost or stolen Security Lock. If the Security lock becomes defective it will be replaced, but only after it has been returned to SGS. If you must return the security lock, the package should be insured. CD

The OptiTex Program Disk. Documentation

OptiTex Manual and Lesson Plans

Registration Before you begin, send in the Product Registration card to register yourself as an owner of OptiTex. This card can be faxed or mailed to the address on the card. As a registered owner, you’ll be informed of updates, upgrades and training seminars; you’ll be on the mailing list for technical bulletins and product information.

Help Services Provided SGS offers extensive customer service. Below are the operational support services available to you as a Registered OptiTex user.

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Technical Support Our US and Canada Technical Support department will provide assistance for problems of a technical nature. If you are having problems printing or plotting, for example, technical support will assist you. When calling for technical support, please be at your computer with the following information: •

OptiTex Version Number.

•

OptiTex Security Lock # (listed on the lock).

•

Detailed description of the problem, including exact wording of any error messages.

Technical Support offices

USA Tel.: 610-521-5970 Fax: 610-521-1564 ISRAEL Tel.: 972-3-904-9979 Fax: 972-3-904-2710

Toll free: (US & Canada) 877 RING OPTI

Internet

Messages can be sent via Internet to our support at the following address: E-Mail Technical Support: [email protected] E-Mail Sales & Marketing: [email protected] Web Page

http://www.optitex.com


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Installing OptiTex Before you run the installation program for OptiTex, make sure your computer meets the minimum requirements to run the software. OptiTex Requirements

Pentium or better processor 16 MB of RAM Microsoft Windows ™ 95 Hard Drive with 150 MB of free disk space Microsoft mouse or other compatible pointing device SVGA 15’’ monitor running at resolution 800X600, 256 colors, 1 parallel port, 1 serial port Recommended Equipment

Pentium II – 350 or better processor 64 MB of RAM Microsoft Windows ™ 95 or Windows 98 or Windows NT Hard Drive with 150 MB of free disk space Microsoft mouse or other compatible pointing device AGP display card with 4 MB of memory


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17’’ monitor running at resolution 1024X768, 256 colors, 1 parallel port, 2 serial ports USB port SGS recommends using a Bus mouse if you intend to install a serial plotter or digitizer, since most computers are only equipped with two serial outlets. In order to use OptiTex, you need to do the following: •

Attach the OptiTex Security.

•

Install the OptiTex Software.

•

Configure your Plotter.

Attach the OptiTex Security Lock

There are five steps, which must be performed in order to attach the OptiTex Security Lock. •

Turn your computer off.

•

Remove any cable or Security Lock which may be connected to your printer (LPT1 – the printer port is a female slot at the rear panel of your computer).

•

Plug the male side of the OptiTex Security Lock into the printer port (LPT1).

! Note: Before plugging in

the Security Lock you may want to write down the serial number located on the plug. This number will be necessary when calling for Technical Support and is required on the Product Registration Card.


•

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Plug anything, which was previously attached to the printer into the back end of the OptiTex Security Lock.

! Note:

If you have a printer connected to the back of the OptiTex Security Lock make sure the printer is properly grounded. If it is not grounded correctly, the printer can short out your Security Lock. Do not connect the Security Lock to an A/B switch box or a cable, as this also short out the Security Lock (you may find that it will work for a while, but it will eventually destroy the Security Lock). The OptiTex Security Lock MUST be plugged DIRECTLY into the printer port (LPT1).

! Note:

SGS does not guarantee that its copy protection and software are compatible with all kind of computers.

Install the OptiTex Software •

Start Microsoft Windows 95.

•

Place the CD in the CD-ROM drive of your computer.

•

The installation screen will display on the screen automatically.

•

Select “Install Optitex 8.0.”

•

In the first screen select the installation language. Click NEXT.

•

Select the Optitex language.

! Note:

The installation will take few minutes to copy the necessary files to your hard drive.

•

The destination directory dialog box will be displayed. The default installation path will be set to C:\Program files\Optitex8. Click Browse button to select a different path. Click Next.


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•

Select the options that you would like to have install and click next.

The program will begin installing the files to the selected drive and directories. After the installation is complete, a dialog box will display thanking you for installing the latest version of SGS software. Click OK and icons will be placed on the desktop of your computer for OptiTex PDS and OptiTex Mark. To open PDS or Mark, double click on the correct icon. You must restart you computer after first OptiTex installation (no need to restart it if you upgrade the existing OptiTex software).


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Configuring OptiTex to Your Plotter There are several steps to configuring your plotter. You must set up your communication parameters, configure the plot manager, and use the plotter setup command in the File menu. You can use the plot manager of your choice. OptiTex supplies you with OutMan (output manager) which supports different standard and non-standard plotters as well as OCC. The OutMan uses Windows communication routines and has its own Queue of file to plot. Set Up Communication Parameters

You must first set up the communication parameters for the Com port to which your plotter is connected (there is no need to configure parallel port). Refer to your plotter’s manual to find its particular communication parameters. ! Note: It

is absolutely necessary to setup the communication parameters for the Com port to which your plotter is connected.

Configuring the OutMan as the Output manger

To configure OptiTex to your plotter, the OutMan must be loaded on the station connected to the plotter. This way all users can share the plotter. Do not load the Output manager on stations without a plotter connected. The OutMan installation will copy all relevant files to your disk and place the OutMan icon in your Startup group. OutMan displays a complete review of the file being plotted, including the amount of paper left on the roll and other useful information. You must perform the following steps for each plotter you will be using.


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•

On the station connected to the plotter, double click the OutMan icon. The OutMan dialog box will be displayed.

•

In the Out Man dialog box select the Communication command in the Options menu. The Communication dialog box will then be displayed.

•

Select the proper communication port and set the correct communication parameters for it.

OutMan Dialog Box


Stop Action

Stop Action command is used to stop the current plot job. Exit

Exit command is used to close the output manager. Communication

Used to set up the port, baud rate, data bits, parity, stop bits, flow, and protocol. Working Units

Allows you to choose the working unit of your choice: mm, cm, inches, or feet. Font

Allows you to change the font size and type. About

Displays information about the version of software.

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Configuring Output Control Center (OCC) as output manger The Output Control Center (OCC) is used to communicate with your plotter or cutter as well as manage all your plotting jobs. The OCC supports plotters in local computer or on any other computer on your network. OCC (Output Control Center) is a 32 Bit application, native to windows, and it's main usage is for arranging a queue to plotters. OCC can control all kind of output devices, regardless of how they are connected to your computer. You can use serial, parallel & network plotting with it at a great ease. The following document comes to explain to you how to use this application. Note that it's possible to set the OCC in the same way from our "Plot" dialog in OptiTex 8.0 The OCC user interface

The Occ application is built mainly from two windows. The first one is the "Plotters and Queue window" and the second one is the "Jobs and Info. In queue" The Toolbar is made of buttons which are always the same. Make Job Ready

Making a plot job ready, and sending to plot Hold Job

Leaves the job in the queue in order to plot it later.


Restart Job

Use this button to restart a stuck job or a job you want to re-print it. You can also "restart" jobs that are already done and are in the done folder of the selected plotter. Delete Job

Removes the plot job from the queue. Move Up

Move the job one level up in the queue. Move Down

Move the job one level down in the queue. Move to Top

Move the job to the top of the list. Move to Bottom

Move the job to the bottom of the list. Pause Job

Pausing the plot job, may be resume at any time. Abort Job

Aborts the plotting job, but leaves it on the queue.

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Setting Up a Plotter •

Open the OCC and choose "setup -> Plotters" from the file menu.

•

The “Plotter Setup” dialog appears: Press the "ADD" button, to add a new plotter Choose the way the plotter is connected and press "Next" If your plotter is connected directly to your computer, choose "My computer"

•

And if it's a plotter that's connected to another computer on your network, choose "Network computer". Choose the way the plotter is set. Choose the port (LPT,COM or File),

•

Choose if you want to print to Lectra, Gerber or Standad plotting protocol, and choose the data bits, stop bits, parity and baud rate as they are in your plotter's manual. In your plotter manual you should also have the switches (communication parameters) for your specific plotter.

•

After setting up everything press on the "Next" button.

•

In the plotter name dialog, write the name of your plotter (or any name you want) and choose a path where you want to keep your queue files (file to plot), and then press on Finish.

•

If you want other people on your network to be able to plot with your plotter, you have check the "Shared Plotter" box.

15

16


In the new window you can see your plotters, and the name of the computer that they are connected to. On the lower part of this window, you can see which plotter is the Default one, If you want to change the default plotter, all you have to do is to click once on the plotter you want to make as default and then press on the "set Default" button. When you're satisfied with your plotter settings press the "Close" button, to get into the main window of the OCC application again.

Chapter 2: Icons and Tool Bars

17

Chapter 2: Icons and Tool Bars The Tools Tools are small icons or pictures that represent different features within the software. Tools are displayed across the top of the screen in bars (rows) located below the pull down menus and above the piece bar. There are five different Toolbars in the PDS and GRADE software: !

Note: Toolbars may vary in appearance and number of available tools on each Toolbar based on software modules that were purchased. For example, the Advanced Toolbar may have fewer icons if the Custom Fit software module was not purchased. This section covers all tolls on all Toolbars.

The Grading Toolbar:

The System Toolbar:

The Insert Toolbar:


18

The Edit Toolbar:

The Modify Toolbar:

The General Toolbar:

The Advanced Toolbar:

The Custom Fit Toolbar:

The Accessories Toolbar:


19

The Template Basic Shapes Toolbar:

Toolbars may be viewed on the screen, or they may be hidden from view. When all Toolbars are displayed, the size of the working area is reduced. To control the display of Toolbars on the screen, use the Toolbars command in the View menu. To display a particular Toolbar on the screen, place a check mark next to the name of the Toolbar. To hide a particular Toolbar, uncheck the name of the Toolbar. To check or uncheck a selection, click on the name of the Toolbar in the Toolbar menu. Toolbars toggle from on to off each time the mouse clicks on the name of the Toolbar. To Customize a Toolbar: •

From the View menu, select Tool Bars.

•

Click on Customize.

•

Click on New. Name the new toolbar.

•

Click OK. The toolbar will display under the Toolbars tab and on the working screen.

•

Select the Tools tab. On the right, the buttons are displayed for the highlighted toolbar on the left.

•

Select the button to be placed in the new toolbar. A description of that button will display at the bottom of the dialog box.

•

Click and drag the button from the dialog box to the new toolbar on the working screen.


20

•

Lift the mouse button to drop the button into the toolbar. Repeat this until all desired buttons are placed in the toolbar.

•

Click OK.

! ! Note:

The buttons from the Template Basic Shapes toolbar cannot be transferred to a customized toolbar.

To Reset a Toolbar:

Resetting a toolbar replaces any buttons that were taken out of a default toolbar. •

From the View menu, select Tool Bars.

•

Highlight the desired toolbar.

•

Click Reset.

•

Click Close.

! ! Note:

The Reset command changes to the Delete command when a customized toolbar or a Template toolbar is highlighted.

To Create a Template Toolbar:

A Template Toolbar is a toolbar in which the buttons are pattern pieces, which can be stretched to a desired length and width. •

Save your file as a Template (From the Template menu, select "Save As".)

•

Exit PDS.


•

Open PDS.

•

From the View menu, select Tool Bars. The Template will be added to the bottom of the Toolbar list.

21

Engaging a Tool

Clicking once on the tool activates most tools. The cursor changes from the normal pointer (an arrow) to another type of pointer that coincides with the selected tool. For example, when the Walk tool is activated, the normal pointer turns into a cross hair line with two small feet. The two small feet remind the user that the walk feature is currently activated. Disengaging a Tool

Returning to the normal arrow pointer disengages a tool. To return to the normal arrow pointer, either click on the tool that looks like an arrow, or click the right mouse button, and select the first option in the pop up menu, “Select Tool” using the left mouse button. Selecting another tool from one of the Toolbars also disengages tools currently in use. Grading Toolbar

The Grading Toolbar consists of tools that are directly related to the grading commands in the Grading pull down menu. These commands are also covered in the Grading chapter.


22

Previous Point

Use Previous Point to select the next grading point in the counterclockwise direction from the currently selected grading point. This tool eliminates using the mouse to select grading points.

Copy Grading (Ctrl + G + C)

Use Copy Grading to place the X and Y grading increments of a selected Grade point on the Windows clipboard . After clicking on the Copy Grading tool, the X and Y grading increments are copied to the clipboard and remain on the clipboard until another item is copied. Typically, the Copy Grading tool is used as the first step in pasting grading increments from one point to another.

Paste Relative (Ctrl + G + R)

Paste Relative is used to automatically apply opposite grading on a piece when using the Paste command related to the position of the point; left, right, up, down to the point where the grading value came from. Opposite grading refers to grading increments that reverse in the negative or positive direction. A check mark next to Relative in the Grading menu indicates that the Relative option is activated. Another way to activate the Paste Relative option, is to click on the Paste Relative icon in the Grading Toolbar. The Paste Relative icon appears highlighted when activated.


23

Paste Grading (Ctrl + G + P)

Use Paste Grading to paste the X and Y grading increments from the Windows clipboard onto the selected point . Select the point where the same X and Y grading increments are desired and then click the Paste Grading tool. After clicking on the Paste Grading tool, the X and Y grading increments are pasted on to the selected point. Typically, the Paste Grading tool is used as the second step for pasting grading increments from one point on to another.

Paste X Grading (Ctrl + G + X)

Use Paste X grading to paste only the X grading increment that was copied onto the clipboard. This command is used after the Copy Grading command.

Paste Y Grading (Ctrl + G + Y)

Use Paste Y grading to paste only the Y grading increment that was copied onto the clipboard. This command is used after the Copy Grading command.

Paste Grading Around (Ctrl + G +A)

Use Paste Grading Around to paste the average of a specific grading value around a selected piece.

24


Zero Grading (Ctrl + G + Z)

Use Zero Grading to nullify a grading value of a selected point(s).

Flip X Grading (Ctrl + G + F)

Flip X Grading of the current selected point, reverses the direction of X grading values. If the X value for a grade point is +1/2” for each larger size, Flip X reverses the X so that it is -1/2” for each larger size.

Flip Y Grading (Ctrl + G + L)

Flip Y Grading reverses the direction of Y grading values. If the Y value for a grade point is +1/2” for each larger size, Flip Y reverses the Y so that it is 1/2” for each size larger.

Equal X Grading (Ctrl + G + E)

Use Equal X Grading so that only one grading value must be entered for an entire size range on an even grade. This command eliminates tedious and repetitive typing.


25

To Use Equal X Grading: •

Type in the X growth amount for the next larger size from the base size.

•

Move the cursor to the top of the X column in the grading table.

•

Click the cursor with the left button one time to highlight the entire X column in black.

•

Select Equal X Grading from the Grading menu or use the Equal X tool

•

All sizes are now equally graded.

! ! Note: If

the grading is not visible or only partially visible on the screen, press the F4 key on the keyboard to activate all grading.

Equal Y Grading (Ctrl + G + Q)

Use Equal Y Grading so that only one value must be entered for an entire size range on an even grade. This command eliminates tedious and repetitive typing. To Use Equal X Grading: •

Type in the Y growth amount for the next larger size from the base size.

•

Move the cursor to the top of the Y column in the grading table.

•

Click the cursor with the left button one time to highlight the


26

entire Y column in black. •

Select Equal Y Grading from the Grading menu or use the Equal Y icon.

•

All sizes are now equally graded.

! ! Note: If

the grading is not visible or only partially visible on the screen, press the F4 key on the keyboard to activate all grading.

Zero X Grade (Ctrl + G + Z)

Zero X Grade of the selected point, quickly makes all grade values for all sizes, zero in the X column. This command is commonly used to remove grading from a particular point. To Use Zero X Grade: •

Select one or more grading points with the arrow tool. If selecting multiple points, drag the arrow in the clockwise direction from the first point to the last point.

•

Select Zero X Grade from the Grading menu or use the Zero X icon.

•

All sizes on the select point/s are now grading zero in the X direction.


27

Zero Y Grade (Ctrl + G + O)

Zero Y Grade quickly makes all grade values for all sizes, zero in the Y column. This command is commonly used to remove grading from a particular point. To Use Zero Y Grade: •

Select one or more grading points with the arrow tool. If selecting multiple points, drag the arrow in the clockwise direction from the first point to the last point.

•

Select Zero Y Grade from the Grading menu or use the Zero Y icon.

•

All sizes on the select point/s are now grading zero in the Y direction.

Graded Nest

Allows building a graded nest using pieces that came from another CAD application via a DXF, AAMA or any other file format where grading value information and relationships between pieces is lost. For example, if a marker is imported that contains a men’s shirt style including sizes S, M, and L, all the pieces are imported into SGS OptiTex software as separate pieces. No relationships between sizes are imported with the data. The Graded Nest tool provides the ability to stack all same pieces of different sizes into a graded nest and relates the pieces as the same piece but different sizes.


28

To Use the Graded Nest Tool: •

First, sizes must be defined using the Size command under the Grading Menu. Define the Base size and size range to be used. (See the Grading Chapter.)

•

Display the point numbers for each pattern piece using the Display Piece Attributes dialog box in the View menu. Make sure that the zero point to be used for each size is set to the same number. In the example below, all pocket pieces use point #1 as the zero point. If the zero point for each size is not set to the same number, use the Start Point command in the Piece Menu. (See the Piece Chapter).

•

Click on the Graded Nest tool. Notice that the status line at the bottom of the screen prompts the user to select the Base size first.

•

Click on point #1 of the medium sized pockets (the base size).

•

Click on point #1 of the small sized pocket.

•

Click on point #1 of the large sized pocket.


•

The pocket pieces should now display as a graded nest. If the graded nest is not visible, press the F4 key on the keyboard.

Grade Proportional

Grade Proportional is used to apply grading on curved pattern edges. For example, proportional grading is commonly used on the hemline of a circle skirt or on scalloped edges.

29


30

To Apply Proportional Grading: •

Select the Grade Proportional tool.

•

Click on the first point from which the proportional grade originates. In the example above, select point #3.

•

Click on the last point from which the proportional grade originates. In the example above, select point #1.

•

Click on the point to receive the proportional grade. In the example above, select point #4.

Next Point

Use Next Point to select the next grading point in clockwise direction from the currently selected grading point. This tool eliminates using the mouse to select grading points.


31

System Toolbar The System Toolbar consists of many standard Windows type tools as well as several SGS specific tools.

Pointer

The Pointer tool (sometimes called the Selection tool or the Arrow tool) is the default tool used in the PDS software. This tool is used to select pieces, points, and line segments. ! ! Tip:

Double click the Pointer tool to redraw the screen.

! ! Note:

To access the Pointer tool without clicking on the Pointer icon, click the right mouse button one time. With the left button, select the Pointer tool from the pop-up menu.

New (Ctrl + N)

Use the new tool to start a new design (DSN) file. A DSN file contains all the pieces necessary to make one complete garment or other sewn product. When the New tool is selected, the Make Rectangle dialog box displays by default. Enter specific length and width values for the new pattern piece or select Cancel to bypass the Make Rectangle dialog box. The number of pieces in a DSN file is limited only by the amount of memory available on your computer.


32 ! ! Note:

Refer to the File Chapter for more information.

Open

The Open tool opens an existing SGS pattern file ! ! Note:

SGS pattern files have the extension, .DSN.

! Note: The last directory where design files have been saved becomes the default

directory for the Open and Save commands. Use the Browse button to select a different directory.

Save

The Save tool saves the file displayed on screen to the current path under the current name, replacing the old file. If a new file has been created, but the new file has not been previously saved, a dialog box prompts for a file name to be entered. ! ! Note:

The DSN extension is added to the file name automatically.

! ! Note:

The last directory where design files have been saved becomes the default directory for the Open and Save commands. Use the Browse button to select a different directory.

! ! Note:

Refer to the File Chapter for more information.


33

Print

Use the Print Tool to activate the Print dialog box. Refer to the File Chapter for in depth information.

Plot

Use the Plot Tool to activate the Plot dialog box. Refer to the File Chapter for in depth information.

Digitize

Use the Digitize Tool to activate the Digitize dialog box. Refer to the File Chapter for in depth information.

About OptiTex PDS

Choose the About OptiTex PDS tool to find the version of OptiTex PDS you are currently using and your security lock number. This information is necessary when contacting Technical Support for help with your SGS software.


34

Context Help

Use the Context Help tool to get information about any item or feature in the SGS software. Select the Context Help tool and then click on any item on the screen to get information about the selected item. Information regarding the selected item displays on the screen.

Insert Toolbar The Insert Toolbar consists of tools used for editing pieces such as adding fullness, deleting elements from a piece, adding notches, seam allowances, pleats and more.

Delete

The Delete tool is used to delete points, notches, darts, and inner elements on a piece. When the tool is selected, the pointer changes to an eraser with a black dot on its end. ! ! Tip:

Be careful when deleting curve points as removing a point may cause the curve to look very different.

! ! Tip:

Select the Undo command from the Edit menu to undo the deleting of a point.


To Delete Elements from a Piece:

! ! Tip:

•

Select the Delete tool.

•

Place the black dot on the eraser over the element to be deleted.

•

Click the mouse button.

•

A dialog box pops up on the screen and asks if you are sure you want to delete.

•

Click OK to complete deleting the element.

Another way to delete elements is to select the element with the pointer tool, and then press the Delete key on the keyboard.

Point On

Use the Point On tool to add a point onto the perimeter of a piece. You can also decide on a point type when adding the new point. To Add a Point on a Piece’s Perimeter: •

Select the POINT ON tool.

•

Move the tool to the area where the point is to be added.

•


•

If the Move Point dialog box is enabled, it allows the user to specify a distance from the previous or next point to place the added point.

35


36

•

! ! Tip:

Click OK.

If the attributes are not changed, the point receives the same attributes of the last point selected. Use the ‘Point On’ tool to add points to an internal as well.

! ! Note:

Refer to Move Point section in the Edit Chapter for more information on the Move Point Dialog Box.

Point Beside

Use the Point Beside tool to add a point beside the perimeter of a piece. This tool changes the shape of the piece. When the point is added outside or inside the piece’s perimeter, the line segment closest to the point snaps onto the point, changing the shape of the piece and breaking the original line segment into two line segments. The diagram below illustrates an example. To Add a Point Beside a Piece’s Perimeter: •

Select the Point Beside tool.

•

Move the tool to the area where the point is to be added.

•


•

The Move Point dialog box displays, the user can specify a distance from previous or next point to place the added point.

•

Click OK.

•

Notice that the shape of the piece changes based on where the point is placed.


! ! Note:

37

Refer to Move Point section in the Edit Chapter for more information on the Move Point Dialog Box.

Notch

Use the Notch tool to add a notch to a piece’s perimeter. This tool provides an easy way to add or edit notches once the digitizing process is finished. A notch is a marking point positioned on the boundary of a piece and is used to accurately align one piece to another piece indicating how pieces are sewn together. There are three parameters that define a notch location on the piece’s boundary and the size of the notch. These parameters are depth, width, and angle. The Notch’s parameters are defined and can be changed in the Edit Notch dialog box. Notches are also used in the PDS software to define stripe adjust points for stripe matching on the marker. Stripe adjust points are set in the Notch Attributes dialog box which is accessible through the Edit Notch dialog box. (See the subsection, “Attributes” below in the Edit Notch section). ! ! Note:

The default notch type can be changed using the Options Menu, Preferences, Default Sizes, and Notch Parameters.

To Add a Notch: •

Select the Notch tool.

•

Place the tool where the notch is to be applied.

•


•

The Edit Notch dialog box displays allowing the user to specify the type, size, and exact placement of the notch.


38

! Note: See the section below for more information on the Edit Notch dialog

box. •

Click Apply. Then click Close.


39

! ! Note:

Corner notch direction is global command for all the notches in the DSN file!

! ! Note:

All values displayed in the Notch Attributes dialog box refer to the base size. See also the Attributes section in the Edit menu.

! ! Note:

You can crate as mach notches, with same attribute, as you need without clicking on the "Create" button in the crate notch dialog box. Note that when you will click on the "cancel" button only the last notch will remove. To remove all the notches hold the CTRL key while clicking on the cancel button.

Edit Notch Dialog Box:


40

Reconnect

The Reconnect Button is used to reset a notch to relate with the original point from which it was established. It is usually used in case the original point is deleted and a new grade point should be related to the notch. ! ! Note:

The reconnect command is enabled only when the value in the proportional window is not between 0 and 1! Using the reconnect command will change the notch link to relate to the nearest grading point with distance proportions in the normal range (0 to 1).

Type

There are six types of notches available to choose: T, V, I, L, U, Box. Pieces may have more than one type of notch. Use the down arrow next to the Type box, to see a list of available notch types and to make the appropriate selection. Size

The size box indicates the size piece for which information is currently displayed. This information is only important if the pattern is graded. Depth

Depth indicates the length of the notch. A typical notch depth is .25”, however this measurement varies depending on the type of pattern piece, and on individual standards set by each company. Width

Width indicates the width of the notch. Width does not apply to Slit notches (also called I notches).


41

Angle

Angle indicates the angle of the notch from the line where the notch is placed. To apply a notch on the outside of a pattern piece, use an angle setting of 180 degrees. Other way to edit the notch angle, is using the mouse click. Click on the "Angle by mouse click" and click again on the general direction of the selected notch. It will be move to the click direction.

Attributes

The Attributes button activates the Notch Attributes dialog box. This dialog box is used to establish parameters for an automatic cutter and to establish stripe adjust points when working with stripe, plaid, or repeated print fabrics. Parameters for the cutter include notch type: draw, cut, or punch. Additionally, this area is used to establish operational stops (op stops) for temporarily stopping an automatic cutter before or after cutting a piece.


42 ! ! Tip:

Under Commands: to prevent cutting the notch use Draw, to cut the notch use Cut, to cut the notch with a special head use Punch (in Gerber cutters it will be the M68 command). In the None mode the notch will not be plotted or cut. This mode is used in notches that are used for stripe adjust or OpStop the marker.

Proportional

When Proportional is checked, the notch is placed proportionally between two grading points before and after the notch.


! ! Note:

43

See the Attributes section in the Edit chapter.

From Previous

When From Previous is selected, the notch is placed a specified distance from the previous grading point. ! ! Note:

It is possible to assign different positions and attributes to each notch on the piece perimeter.

44



! ! Note:

45

Refer to the Attributes section in the Edit chapter.

From Next

When From Next is selected, the notch is placed a specified distance from the next grading point. (See diagram above). Regrade

Use Regrade to regrade and move a notch in case you have changed its position value in the previous three fields (Proportional, From Previous, From Next) have been made. Regrade All

Use Regrade All to regrade the notch on all sizes to follow the grade position of the current notch on the base size after changes in the previous three fields (Proportional, From Previous, From Next) are made. Copy to All

Copy to All is used to copy the attribute of the current notch to all sizes (proportional, from previous, from next).

46


Distance from Grading Points

When this box is selected, all measurements originate from the previous or next grading point only. If this box is not selected, all measurements originate from the previous or next point regardless of whether it is a grading point or a non-grading point.


! ! Note:

! ! Tip:

47

While this dialog box remains open, different notches may be selected and changed. After each notch is changed, click the Apply button. No changes are implemented unless the Apply button is clicked. After editions are final, click Close to exit.

To create a notch that is the same distance from a point for all sizes (sometimes referred to as a notch with a tangent rule), use either the From Previous, or from Next options. Use APPLY to apply changes, then use COPY TO ALL to copy the notch to all sizes, then use REGRADE ALL, so that the notch behaves the same on all sizes.

Seam

Use the Seam tool to add seam allowance to piece. ! ! Note:

Refer to the Seam section in the Piece chapter for more information.

To Add Seam Allowance: •

Select the Seam Allowance tool.

•

Either select a point on a piece indicating that seam allowance is to be added to the entire piece, or select the segment on the piece on which to apply seam allowance.

•

To select a single point for adding a constant seam allowance to the entire piece, point the Seam Allowance tool at a point on the piece and click the mouse twice.

•

To select a segment or multiple segments, point the Seam Allowance tool at the first point and click the mouse, then drag the Seam Allowance tool to the last point of the segment and click the mouse.


48 ! ! Note: It

is not recommended to choose a curve point as a start or end point for a seam.

•

When the Point Attributes dialog box displays, enter the amount of the allowance in the Seam Width box at the lower left of the dialog box. If the seam allowance is added to the entire piece, select the appropriate corner type by clicking on the corresponding corner icon. If the seam allowance is added to a segment of the piece, choose the type of corner to apply to the start of the seam and to the end of the seam from the Start Seam/ End Seam boxes. The icons illustrate available corner types. To leave the corner types as standard corners, it is not necessary to make a corner selection.

•

Click OK after appropriate information is added.


49

! ! Note:

If any changes are made to piece after the seam allowance is applied, press the F6 key to recalculate the seam values.

! ! Note:

Refer to the Attributes Section in the Edit chapter for more information.

! ! Note:

Negative or positive seam allowances may be applied depending on how a piece was created or digitized.

! ! Tip:

To quickly see if seam allowance has already been applied to piece, select a point on the piece, and press the Enter key. When the Point Attributes dialog box displays, notice the value in the Seam Width field.

Delete Seam

Use tool to delete seam from your pieces. •

Select “Delete Seam” tool.

•

From “Unseam” dialog box select which pieces seam to delete.


50

•

Use “OK” button to delete the seam from the selected pieces or use “Cancel” button to cancel to delete command.

Dart

Darts are based on four points. If the dart is digitized, the Start, Middle (the overlap extension) and End points are on the piece’s boundary. The fourth point is the apex of the dart and is digitized while defining the dart. Just below the apex, the drill hole should also be indicated. The first point of the dart is placed on the pattern contour by pressing the letter ‘D’ on the 16-button digitizer. The second point is placed internally at the apex of the dart. The other two points are automatically inserted. ! ! Note: ! ! Tip:

See the File Chapter for details on digitizing a dart.

If a dart is not digitized during the digitizing process, it can easily be added to piece on the screen using the Dart tool.

To Create a New Dart: •

Select the Dart tool.


•

! ! Note:

Click the left mouse button on the first point of the dart (See the diagram below).

There must be existing points on the first and last dart points on the piece’s boundary. If points do not exist where the dart is to be placed, use the Add Relative command in the Edit menu. (See the Edit chapter).

•

Click the left mouse button again on the last point of the dart. The cursor automatically becomes the center point (apex) of the line created between the two selected points.

•

Drag the cursor internally to create the dart depth and click the mouse button a third time. After clicking the mouse button a third time the Dart Attributes dialog box will appear.

! ! Note:

51

The dart is always created symmetrically.

•

When the Dart Attributes dialog box displays, select the desired options.

•

Click OK.


52

Dart Attributes Dialog Box:

Name

Use name field to give a name for the dart apex point. ! ! Note:

If your dart apex point as a name, you will be able to apply a grading rule (by using “Apply Rule by name” command from grading menu) for the dart apex without selecting the dart apex point.


Direction

Select the direction to fold the dart, clockwise, or counter clockwise. The Overlap box below must be checked in order to select a direction. Overlap

Check the Overlap box to establish that the dart is to be folded in a specific direction. Checking this box activates the Direction options above. Depth

Use the Depth field to view the current depth of the dart or enter a specific depth for the dart.

53


54

Equal for All Sizes

If the dart should not grade with the pattern piece, check this box. If the dart should grade with each size, uncheck this box. Drill, Draw, Cut, None

Select the desired option for the drill hole. Distance

Enter the distance to place the drill from the apex of the dart. To place the drill hole one half inch below the apex, enter .5 in the Distance box. To Pivot a Dart to a New Location: •

Select the Dart tool.

•

Click and hold the left mouse button on the center point of the dart.

•

Drag the cursor to the new location along the perimeter of the pattern piece where the dart is to be pivoted Click the mouse a second time.

•

As shown in the diagram, click on point #1 and drag to #3. Click the mouse button again at point #3 to pivot the entire dart to the side seam. This step directly relates manual pattern making when closing a dart after the pattern has been slashed.


55


56

•

! ! Tip:

To pivot part of the original dart to the side seam, click on point #1 and drag toward point #2. Click the mouse again at point #2. The Move Dart dialog appears. To move 50% of the original waist seam dart to the side seam enter 50 in the percent box.

To move the entire dart from the waist seam to the side seam, enter 100 or 0 in the Percents box.

Combining Darts

Combining two darts is possible if both darts have the same pivot (Apex) point. This situation occurs when a dart has previously been divided using the dart tool. To combine the two darts use the same method used to pivot a dart to a new location. To Change the Position of the Dart Apex: •

To change the location of the dart Apex, select the Dart tool and click on the apex of the dart. Drag in the direction where the apex is to be relocated. Click the mouse a second time.

•

When the Move Dart Origin dialog box appears, enter the desired X and Y values.

•

Click OK to activate the new location of the dart apex.


Add Fullness

Use the Add Fullness tool to slash and spread a piece to add more fullness. This feature is commonly used in the apparel industry. The diagram below illustrates an example of adding fullness. To Add Fullness: •

Select the Add Fullness tool.

•

Click the left mouse button on the first point. The first point is position on a pattern where slashing would begin.

•

Drag the cursor to the second point and click the mouse button. The second point is where the pattern is cut to (not through). This point is sometimes referred to as the pivot point.

•

When the Move Point Dialog Box is displayed, enter specific values for exact placement of the fullness. This step is optional and only necessary in order to place the first and second slash points at an exact location relative to other points on the pattern.

•

Click OK.

•

When the Values to Open dialog box displays, enter the amount of fullness to add. This amount can be a linear distance or an angle. Fullness may be added as balanced fullness (equal fullness on both sides of the slash line), or fullness may be added to only one side of the slash line.

•

Click OK.

57

58



59

Pleat

The Pleat tool is used to create pleats. Both Box pleats and Knife pleats may be added using the Pleat tool. The Pleat tool allows for even and variable (uneven) pleating. Pleat depth and the amount of spacing between each pleat may also be specified in the Pleat dialog box. ! ! Note:

Error messages appear if a pleat is placed over a sharp curve or corner. Error messages also appear if the number, depth, and distance between each pleat exceed the existing piece’s dimensions. Error messages indicate that the values entered into the Pleat dialog box are incorrect.

To Make a Pleat: •

Select the Pleat tool.

•

Click the mouse on the piece at the point where the pleat is to start.

•

When the Move Point dialog box displays, either confirm the values in the Move Point dialog box by pressing Enter, or enter the desired values and click OK.

•

Click the mouse on the piece at the point where the pleat is to end. Repeat step 3.

•

When the Define Pleat Characteristics dialog box displays, enter the desired pleat information. (See the Pleat Characteristics Dialog Box section below).

•

Click OK.


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Pleat Characteristics Dialog Box:

Box

Select Box Pleat in order to create box pleats. This type of pleat has four folds. When Box Pleat is checked, an image of the pleat displays on the upper right side of the dialog box. Knife

Select Knife Pleat in order to create knife pleats. This type of pleat has two folds. When Knife Pleat is checked, an image of the pleat displays on the upper right side of the dialog box.


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CCW Folded

This option is activated only when the Knife Pleat box is selected. Selecting this option makes the knife pleats fold in the counter clockwise direction. If this option is not selected, the pleats fold in the clockwise direction. Variable Pleat

The variable pleat option is used to create uneven pleats. For example, a variable pleat may be 1” at the top of the pleat and .5” at the bottom of the pleat. If this option is not selected, the pleat is even or parallel from top to bottom. See the diagram below for illustration. Depth

Depth refers to the size (thickness) of the pleat. For example, a pleat may be 1” in depth. First

First is activated only when the Variable option is selected. The depth of the pleat on the first line is entered in this box, and the depth of the pleat on the second line is entered in the above box. The above box, “Depth,” changes to “Second” when the variable option is activated. This prompts the user to enter a pleat depth for the second line. Number of Pleats

Enter the number of pleats in this box. Pleats Distance

This option is only activated when 2 or more pleats are entered in the Number of Pleats box above. Enter the distance between pleats. For example, there may be two pleats on a pattern piece that are spaced 2” apart.


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Pleats First Distance

This option is only activated when 2 or more pleats are entered in the Number of Pleats box and when the Variable option is selected. Enter the distance between pleats on the first pleat line in this box. In this case, the distance between pleats on the second pleat line is entered in the Pleats Distance box above.

Counter Clockwise

This option controls the direction that the pleats are placed from the original defined pleat line (see step #2 in the “To Make A Pleat” section). If this box is checked, pleats are placed in the counterclockwise direction from the original line. If the box is unchecked, pleats are placed in the clockwise direction from the original line.


! ! Note:

See the following diagram for the results of the above options on a skirt pattern.

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Circle

Use the Circle tool to create a circular line on a piece. Circles may be created with a specific radius, and they may also be duplicated. To Make a Circular Line: •

Select the Circle tool.

•

Click the mouse on the piece where the center of the circle is to be placed.

•

Drag the mouse away from the center point to the approximate size of the desired circular line, and click the mouse again.


•

When the Edit Circle dialog box displays, confirm the existing radius by pressing Enter, or specify an exact radius by entering a specific value in the Radius box.

! ! Note: Use the Name filed to give a new to your circle ! ! Note: If your circle as a name you will be able to apply a grading rule (by

using “Apply Rule by name” command from grading menu) for the dart button without selecting the dart apex point. •

OPTIONAL: To create duplicate circles, press the Duplicate button and enter the necessary information in the Duplicate dialog box.

•

Press OK.

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Button

Use the Button tool to create drill holes. Buttons are also used to mark a match point, for stripe matching on a marker when working with stripe, plaid, or repeated print fabrics. Buttons may be duplicated quickly and easily without having to recreate each button. The button tool can also be used to mark a drill hole for pockets or as OpStop for the cutting machine. Buttons can be graded or they can serve as stack points. (Refer to the Stack Point command in the Grading chapter.) To Create a Button (drill hole): •

Select the Button tool.

•

Click the mouse on the piece where the button is to be placed. If the mouse is clicked on an existing point, the Add Point Relative dialog box displays which allows the user to specify a specific distance from the existing point where the button is to be placed. If the mouse is not clicked on an existing point, the Button Attributes dialog box displays.


•

When the Button Attributes dialog box displays, select the type of button to create and the desired Operation Stop Cutting Option. (See note below). Also, indicate the stripe adjust number if the button is for stripe matching.

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•

OPTIONAL: To create duplicate buttons, press the DUPLICATE button and enter the necessary information in the Duplicate dialog box.

•

Click OK.

! ! Note:

Op Stop options control whether the cutter stops before, after, or does not stop before or after a drill.

! ! Note: Buttons are also created using the Add Relative command from the

Edit pull down menu. This method of adding buttons allows placement of the buttons a specific distance from an existing point. (Refer to the Edit chapter for details).

Buttons on Distance

Use Buttons on Distance to add several buttons on equal distance.

•

Select the Button on Distance tool.

•

Place the Button on Distance tool directly over a point, if the buttons are to be related to that point, where the buttons will begin. If not, place the Button on Distance tool to the desired location on the piece. Click with the mouse button.

•

Drag the tool to the point where the buttons will end. Click with the mouse button.

•

The Set Buttons on equal distance dialog box will display.


•

Enter the Number of buttons desired

•

Between - the number of buttons in between the first and last button

•

Before - the number of buttons before the first button

•

After - the number of buttons after the last button

•

Distance shows the distance between the first & last button.

•

Enable the Set First option in order to display the first button.

•

Enable the Set Last option in order to display the last button.

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•

Enter a value for the Radius of the buttons.

•

Select the Command for either a plotter or cutter.

•

Click OK.

Text

Use the Text tool to add text. This tool is commonly used to add instructions or other information to a piece to aid the cutting process. The text is plotted on the pieces either from the PDS software, or it is plotted from the Marking software. Text may be added at an angle. ! ! Note: It is not necessary to use the text tool for standard piece information

such as the piece name, style name, piece code, piece description, size name, or sequence number. Standard piece information in entered using the Piece Information dialog box. (See the Piece Chapter for details). This information is controlled in the Marking software. It is optional to plot all, some, or none of this “standard” information. See the SGS Marking Manual for more details. To Place Text: •

Click the Text tool. The arrow becomes a text cursor.

•

Move the cursor to the desired position within the selected pattern piece and click the mouse button.

•

When the Enter Text at Screen Position dialog box displays, type the appropriate text in the dialog box.

•

Click OK. The text displays on the screen.


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To Change or Delete Text: •

Select the Text tool.

•

Select the text to be changed or deleted by clicking on top of the text.

•

When the Enter Text at Screen Position dialog box displays, either change the existing text or use the delete key or the backspace key to remove unwanted text.

•

Click OK.

! ! Note: There are limitations to the text size according to your output device.

The text size and font are changed through the Fonts command in the Options menu.

Pleat Lines

The Pleat Lines command has three sub options: Add, Add by Angle & Remove. Pleat lines are a special line type that runs between 2 points. It is a dashed line that is attached to its end points. If you move on of these points, the Pleat line will move with it. To define an Pleat line between two points: •

Or

Using the Pleat Lines tool, select the two points by clicking on the first point, and then hold down the Shift key while selecting the second point.


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•

Using the Pleat Lines tool, click on a point and then drag the cursor to the next point and click again with left mouse button. To remove the Pleat line either select the two points and choose the ‘Remove’ option from the Pleat command, or select the Pleat line with the pointer (arrow) and use the ‘Delete’ (Del) key from the keyboard. Remember that any selected element becomes RED while the cursor is close to that element.


The Edit Toolbar Tools in this Toolbar are used to reposition pieces on the screen such as flip and rotate pieces. It also allows you to edit the contour of the piece by using the move point tools.

Move Point

Select the Move Point Tool to move a single point. To Move a Single Point: •

Select the Move Point tool.

•

Click on the point to be moved. The selected point is now attached to the cursor.

•

Move the point to the desired position and click the mouse again to anchor the point. The Move Point dialog box displays with the new point coordinates.

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•

OPTIONAL: Enter the desired values to move the point to a specific location.

•

Click OK.

! ! Note: The display of the Move dialog box may be turned off by clicking the

Disable This Dialog option. The dialog box is not displayed until this option is reversed using the Open Move Dialog Box command in the Options menu.


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Move Proportional

Select the Move Proportional tool to move a section proportionally between two grading points. To Move Points Proportionally Between Two Grading Points: •

Select the Move Proportional tool.

•

Click on the grading points on each end of the segment to be moved proportionally.

•

Move the points to the desired position and click the mouse again to anchor the points. The Move Segment Proportional dialog box displays.

•

OPTIONAL: Enter the desired values to move the points to a specific location.

•

Click OK.

! ! Note: Segments may be moved proportionally between non-grading points,

however, the results are different. Grading point’s function as anchoring points for the segment that is being proportionally moved. ! ! Note: The display of the Move dialog box may be turned off by clicking the

Disable This Dialog option. The dialog box is not displayed until this option is reversed using the Open Move Dialog Box command in the Options menu.


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Move Parallel

The Move Parallel tool moves a segment of a piece. For example, this tool is commonly used to extend or lengthen one side of a pattern piece. To Move Parallel: •

Select the Move Parallel tool.

•

Click and drag the cursor in a clockwise direction to select the points to move.

! ! Tip: After selecting points, the Move Point command from the Edit menu

may also be used to move the selected group of points. •

Click on any of the selected points and move the segment to the desired location.

•

Click the left mouse button to anchor the position. The Move Parallel dialog box displays.


•

OPTIONAL: Enter values for the exact placement of the segment in the X and Y directions.

•

Click OK.

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! ! Note: The display of the Move Parallel dialog box may be turned off by

clicking the Disable This Dialog option. The dialog box is not displayed until this option is reversed using the Open Move Dialog Box command in the Options menu.

Round Corner

Round Corner is used to create a curved intersection where two lines intersect on a boundary line as well on a multiple point selection. To Create a Rounded Corner: •

Select the intersection point(s) to create a rounded corner.

•

Select ROUND CORNER from the EDIT menu.

•

Enter a value for the radius of the rounded corner in the dialog box.

! ! Note: Round corner command supports multiply corners point selection. ! ! Tip: To undo the rounded corner, select Undo from the Edit menu.


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Align Points

The Align Points command aligns a selected group of points horizontally, vertically or by a specified angle. When choosing the Align Points command, more than one point must be selected. To select points, click and drag the cursor clockwise along the piece contour until the appropriate points are selected (always select points in a clockwise direction). To Align Points •

Click and drag to select the points to be aligned.

•

From the EDIT menu choose ALIGN POINTS.

•

When the Align Points dialog box displays, select the alignment mode: Horizontal, Vertical, or enter a value in the Angle box to align points on an angle.

•

Click OK.

Set Point (0,0)

Select the Set (0,0) Point command to change the start measuring point for the selected pattern piece in the working area. This command is used in conjunction with the Coordinates command in the Display menu. This command is particularly useful during the freehand editing of points with the mouse because it shows the relative moving position of the cursor in any direction.


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! ! Tip: Use this command to add notches, add or move points, etc. with the

mouse by opening the Coordinates window in the Display menu. To set (0,0) Point: •

Select the point to use as the new start point.

•

From the PIECE menu choose SET (0,0) POINT.

! ! Note: Changing the

0,0 point causes the grid to align itself to the 0,0 point. (To view the grid, check the Grid and Stripes option in the Options pull down menu.)

Start Point

Select this command to define which grading point will become the first point. The first grading point and the order of all other grading points is especially important when using All Point (Global) Grading rules. To display point numbers, select Point Numbers from the Display pull down menu. ! ! Note: While

using the All Point Grading (Global) rules, point numbers play an important role.

To Set the Start Point: •

Select the point to set as the first piece point.

•

From the GRADING menu choose START POINT.

•

The selected point is now the first point. Number one Global Grading rules will apply to this point.


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Move

This tool resembles a hand and is used to move pattern pieces around on the working area. To Move a Pattern Piece: •

Select the Move Piece tool.

•

Click on the pattern piece to be moved. The piece is now attached to the mouse and can be moved in any direction.

•

Move the piece to the desired location.

•

Click mouse button a second time to anchor the piece at the new location.

! ! Tip: The keyboard shortcut for the Move Piece tool follows: Click the

pattern piece to be moved, then press the Space Bar once. The cursor changes to a hand and the piece can be moved to the desired location.

Move Internal

The Move Internal tool is used to move any internal element, lines, buttons, circles and texts on a pattern piece.


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To Move an Internal Element on a Pattern Piece: •

Select the Move Internal command.

•

Click on the internal element to be moved. The internal element is now attached to the mouse and can be moved in any direction.

•

Move the internal element to the desired location.

•

Click mouse button a second time to anchor the piece at the new location.

! ! Note: You

can also copy internal elements to any location on the pattern by using the Shift + move Internal tool.

Select Rectangle

Selects several internal elements at once (including the baseline). •

Select the piece with the internals to be highlighted.

•

Select the Select Rectangle tool.

•

Click with the mouse button and drag the cursor so that a rectangle is defined around the desired internals.

•

Lift the mouse button up to reveal which internals are highlighted.

•

The Copy / Paste Internals (Edit Menu) function can now be performed.


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Rotate Segment

Select the Rotate Segment tool to alter a section by rotating it around a pivot point. The pivot point can be placed anywhere on the piece. You can use the rotate segment for slash and spread purposes. To Rotate a Segment: •

Select the Rotate Segment tool.

•

Click the mouse at the location to place the pivot point. A small red X displays to mark the spot.

•

Click and drag the cursor in a clockwise direction to select the segment to Rotate.

•

Click on one of the selected points and drag in the desired direction. The segment rotates around the pivot point as it is dragged.

•

Click the left mouse button to anchor the rotated segment.

The Rotate Angle dialog box displays.


•

OPTIONAL: Enter new values to define specific measurements.

•

Click OK.

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! ! Tip: To change the cursor back to the normal pointer (arrow), click the

right mouse button and select Previous from the pop up menu.

Rotate Piece

Use the Rotate Piece command to rotate the entire piece around a pivot point. To Rotate a Piece: •

Either select a point with the pointer, and then select the ROTATE PIECE tool to establish a specific pivot point. Or, simply select the ROTATE PIECE tool to rotate from the center of the piece.

•

The piece is now controlled by the cursor. Move the cursor to the location where the piece is rotated as desired. Click the mouse button.

•

When the Rotate Internal Angel dialog box displays, click OK to accept the rotation angle, or enter specific angle values for the rotation.

! ! Note: Pieces are also rotated by selecting the Rotate option from the Piece

menu. (Refer to the Rotate command in the Piece Menu).


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Flip Horizontal

This command flips the current pattern piece 180ø along the Y-axis (Back and Forth).

Flip Vertical

This command flips the current pattern 180ø along the X-axis (Up and Down).


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The Modify Toolbar

This toolbar is used to modify the piece or elements of the piece according to the base line.

Rotate

Select the Rotate command to rotate a piece, internal element or baseline by a specified number of degrees to the left or right.

To Rotate a Pattern Piece: •

Select the piece to rotate.

•

From the PIECE menu choose ROTATE.

•

When the Rotate Piece or Inner Element dialog box displays, check the Piece box.


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•

Enter the desired rotation value.

•

Select the rotation direction, left or right.

! ! Note:

The selected piece rotates each time the Left or Right button is selected. The piece and the base line rotate as if they are locked together.

To Rotate a Selected Element: •

Select an internal element (internal line, text, circle, etc.).

•


•

When the Rotate Piece or Inner Element dialog box is displayed, check the Selected Element box.

•

Enter the desired rotation angle.

•


! ! Note:

The selected element rotates each time the Left button or Right button is selected.

To Rotate Piece Over Base: •

Select the baseline or the piece.

•


•

When the Rotate Piece or Inner Element dialog box is displayed, check the Baseline box.

•

Enter the desired rotation value.

•



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! ! Note:

The outcome of Rotate when using the Baseline Only option is the same regardless of whether the baseline or the entire piece is selected.

! ! Note:

The piece rotates and the baseline remains in its original position each time the Left or Right button is selected.

Rotate to Baseline

The Rotate to Initial Base line command is used to rotate the piece back to its original positioning. The base line, or grain line, is a line (usually horizontal) which ensures the placement of the piece is in the correct direction on the screen and on the marker. To Rotate to Initial Base line: •

Make sure everything is ungrouped.

•

From the PIECE menu choose ROTATE TO INITIAL BASE LINE.

•

The pattern piece is returned to its original position, and all internal elements are rotated along with the piece. This command also sets the current base line to a horizontal position. The ratio between the base line and the contour remains constant.

Rotate Line Parallel to Segment

Use Base Parallel to Segment to realign the base line to another internal line or to a line segment on the piece’s boundary.


88

To Make the Base Line Parallel to a Segment: •

Select the 2 point internal line or line segment to which the base line will be aligned.

•

From the PIECE menu, select BASE PARALLEL TO SEGMENT.

•

The base line realigns with the selected segment.

! ! Note:

When using a line segment from the piece’s boundary, the direction and sequence of choosing the two points is important affects the direction of the base line. If the base line is placed outside the piece after using this command, use the Make New Base line command to move it inside the piece (See the following section).

New Base Line

This command is used to edit base lines that run off a piece. Sometimes base lines move to the outside of the piece while working with the Cut tool or using the Create Parallel to Segment command. This command is useful if the base line was not digitized, or if two pieces were joined resulting in an odd shaped piece. This command places the current base line inside the piece close to the center. ! ! Note:

The length of the base line may change during this process.

To Make a New Base line: •

From the PIECE menu choose MAKE NEW BASE LINE.

•

The Base line is placed closer to the center of the pattern piece .


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Mirror

This command creates a new piece exactly the same as the selected piece except the new piece has two symmetrical halves made from the original piece. Note that this command creates an exact symmetric duplicate, which is the same on both sides. To Mirror a Pattern Piece: •

Select two consecutive points by clicking on the first point, then dragging (clockwise) to the next point.

•

From the PIECE menu choose MIRROR.

•

A new piece is created which is symmetrically placed according to the selected points. The new piece displays in the furthermost right-hand box in the Piece Display Bar. See the diagram below.


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The Darts Toolbar

This toolbar is used to create, multiply, copy and paste, close and fix darts.

Create Dart

The Crate Dart tool crates a close dart.


•

From the DART menu chose CREATE DART.

•

The Dart Attributes Dialog Box Appears.

•

When the Dart Attributes dialog box displays, select the desired options.

•

Click OK.

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Multiply Dart

The Multiply Darts command creates several darts on a selected segment at the same time. To create a multidart: •

Click and drag to the points on a segment where the darts are to be created.

•

From the Darts menu select Open Multiple Darts.

•

The Open MultiDart dialog box will display.

•

Enter the desired multiple dart information and click OK.

•

The darts will be created on the first and last selected points. If more than 2 darts are created, they will be equally distributed between the points.


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The below dialog will be displayed so you can make any specifications that will apply to all new darts.

Copy Dart

Use the Copy Dart command to copy selected Dart to the clipboard. Then use the Paste Dart command to paste the copied Dart into the same DSN file or to different DSN file. The copied selection can continue to be pasted until something else is placed onto the clipboard. •

Select the Dart to be copied.

•

From the DART menu choose COPY DART.

•

Open the layout where the object is to be pasted.


•

From the Dart menu choose PASTE DART. The selected objects is placed into the file and displayed in the working area

Paste Dart

Use the Paste Dart command to paste the last dart cut or copied onto the clipboard into the current DSN file or into a different .DSN file. The cut/copied selection can continue to be pasted until something else is placed onto the clipboard. To Paste a Dart into a DSN file: •

Cut or copy the selected Dart by choosing the appropriate command from the Dart menu.

•

Open the layout where the object is to be pasted

•

From the DART menu choose PASTE DART. The selected Dart is placed into the piece

Close Dart

The Close Darts command closes the selected dart(s). •

Select the apex of the dart to close.

•

From the Darts menu select Close Darts. The pattern will adjust as if the dart was physically closed.

•

To reopen the dart, select the Undo tool.

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Fix Dart

The Fix Darts command fixes an existing dart by changing the direction of the dart apex. !

Note: It is important to note the four options in this dialog box to turn the dart triangle to and even sided triangle.


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The General Toolbar

This toolbar is used for most general functions of the software such as zooming in and out, undo and redo functions as well as cutting and pasting.

Zoom In

The Zoom tool is used to display a selected area in a maximized view. To Zoom In on an Area of the Screen: •

Click the Zoom tool.

•

Click and drag a box around the area to zoom.

! ! Tip: To return to the normal view of the screen, use the Zoom All tool

Zoom Out

The Zoom tool is used to Zoom Out After zooming in to get a full Image display. Click On The Zoom Out Tool several times to achieve the correct zoom. ! ! Note: You

can use the Zoom Out Tool also for zooming In, by holding the Shift key while clicking on the Zoom Out Tool.


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Zoom All

The Zoom all Tool is used To achieve the max possible view of All the pieces in the Working Area. ! ! Note: Use

Zoom All + ALT key, for zooming selected piece only.

Zoom Real Scale

Views a selection up close by clicking on it to receive the maximum “filling” when the piece is edited. •

Select the Zoom Real Scale tool.

•

With the Zoom Real Scale tool, click on the area to zoom in.

•

The desired area will then center on the working area.

. ! ! Tip: To return to the normal view of the screen, use the

Zoom All tool.


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Separate

Use this tool to perform a zoom on a selected piece while leaving the rest of the pieces off the working area. •

Select the Separate tool.

•

With the Separate tool, click on the piece to zoom in on.

•

A dialog box will display to Replace Old (Yes) or Remove Current (No) of the other pieces on the working area

Undo (Ctrl+Z)

Use the Undo tool to reverse the most recent action performed in the design file. The Undo tool may be selected up to 20 times undoing the 20 most recent operations, back to adding a piece to the working area. Undo does not work to undo the loading of the file. ! ! Tip: Press the Control key and the Z key to undo. ! ! Note: Refer to

the Edit Chapter for more information


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Redo (Ctrl+Y)

Use the Redo tool to reverse any operation changed by the Undo command. Continue to choose the Redo tool until all of the “undone” operations have been reversed. ! !T ip: Press the Control key and the Y key to redo. ! Note: Refer to the Edit Chapter for more information.

Cut (Ctrl + X)

Cut is used to cut a pattern piece from a file. The cut piece is transferred to the clipboard and remains on the clipboard until another item is placed on the clipboard. This tool is often used to cut one piece out of an existing design file and paste it into another design file.

Copy (Ctrl + C)

Copy is used to copy a pattern piece from a file. The Copied piece is transferred to the clipboard and remains on the clipboard until another item is placed on the clipboard. This tool is often used to copy one piece from an existing design file and pastes it into another design file.


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Paste (Ctrl + V)

Paste is used to paste an item from the clipboard into another file. The Paste command is used as a secondary step to either the Copy command or the Cut command.

Swap Pieces

Swap pieces exchanges a piece on the working area for the original piece in the piece bar. This feature is used to compare the original piece (the piece in the piece bar) with the piece that is being changed (the piece in the working area) during the editing process.

Remove Current

Remove Current removes piece in the working area without updating the original pieces. Use this option to clear the working area of all pieces without keeping any edits. ! ! Note: Refer to

the Clear Pieces section in the Edit Chapter for more information.


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Make New

Make New removes pieces from the working area and simultaneously creates a new piece in the Piece Display Bar of pieces that were previously in the working area. However, if a piece is placed in the working area and changed, the Make New command will create a new piece which contains the changes. Use this option to clear the working area and create New pieces. (See diagrams below).


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! ! Tip: To place pieces that have been cleared back into the working area, use

the Undo command from the Edit menu.

Replace Old

Replace Old replaces the piece in the piece bar with the current piece on the working area. Use this option to clear the working area of a selected piece while updating the original piece with the newly edited piece. Using the Replace Old tool keeps the edits made to the selected piece. ! ! Note: Refer to the Clear Pieces section in the Edit Chapter for more

information.


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The Advanced Toolbar

The Advanced Toolbar consists of tools used for Advanced Features in PDS, specifically, the Custom Fit Feature and the Fabric Feature. The Fabric feature is covered in the Piece chapter and the Custom Fit feature is covered in the Design chapter.

Hide Fabric Pattern

Hide Fabric Pattern hides a selected fabric pattern from display on the screen.

Show Fabric Pattern

Show Fabric Pattern shows a selected fabric pattern on the screen. The fabric displays on the entire working area of the screen.

Clip Fabric Pattern

Clip Fabric Pattern shows the selected fabric only on the pieces that are displayed in the working area of the screen.


103

Show/Hide Control Points

This tool toggles between displaying the control points of a piece and not displaying the control points of a piece. Fabric appearance is cleaner when the control points are hidden from view.

The Dimensional Toolbar

The Custom Fit Toolbar gives you the right tools to take almost any kind of garment and create a set of parameters, that by definition, if these parameters will be changed, the specific garment will fit any customer measurements.

Horizontal Measurement Tool

The Horizontal tool is used to fix the Horizontal measurement between pair of points to a specific distance. The distance can be set to any expression made of numbers and body measurements, for example, an expression can be: Side_Seam+1 and means that the distance is the side-seam body measurement plus one inch. The points must belong to the same pattern and can only be points of the external contour (the current version supports custom fitting of external contour only, future versions will support internals as well).

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In order to create a Horizontal Measurement:

Select the Horizontal tool, click on the 1st point, click on the 2nd point (one by one, the order is not important,). Drag the mouse to the place you want the rule to appear in and click again. An Edit Dimension dialog will open. In the Expression field of this dialog, enter the required Expression. After you have added your expression, press OK. The new rule will appear on the screen. You can also take the Horizontal rule tool and add a new rule between points which sets the vertical distance between them to 0.0 as they should align (pay attention that we set the Horizontal distance to 0.0 and not the vertical distance).

Vertical Measurement Tool

The vertical tool is used to fix the vertical measurement between pair of points to a specific distance. The distance can be set to any expression made of numbers and body measurements, for example, an expression can be: BACK_SHOULDER/2+1 and means that the distance is a half of the shoulder to shoulder body measurement plus one inch. The points must belong to the same pattern and can only be points of the external Contour (the current version supports custom fitting of external contour only, future versions will support internals as well).


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In order to create a Vertical Measurement:

Select the vertical tool, click on the 1st point, click on the 2nd point (one by one, the order is not important). Drag the mouse to the place you want the rule to appear in and click again. An Edit Dimension dialog will open. In the Expression field of this dialog, enter the required Expression. After you have added your expression, press OK. The new rule will appear on the screen. You can also take the vertical rule tool and add a new rule between points which sets the vertical distance between them to 0.0 as they should align (pay attention that we set the vertical distance to 0.0 and not the horizontal distance).

Diagonal Measurement Tool

The Diagonal Measurement tool is used to fix the diagonal measurement between a pair of points to a specific distance. The distance can be set to any expression made of numbers and body measurements, for example, an expression can be: SHOULDER/2 and means that the distance is the shoulder measurement divided by 2. The points must belong to the same pattern and can only be points of the external contour. In order to create a Diagonal Measurement: •

Select the Diagonal tool from the Dimension toolbar.

•

Click on the first point, and then click on the last point.


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•

Drag the mouse to the place on the screen where the rule should appear. Click again.

•

An Edit Dimension dialog box will open. In the Expression filed of this dialog, enter the required Expression.

•

After the Expression has been added, click OK. The new rule will appear on the screen.

Curve Measurement Tool

The Curve Measurement tool is used to fix a curve measurement between a pair of points to a specific distance. The distance can be set to any expression made of numbers and body measurements, for example, an expression can be: ARMHOLE + ½ and means that the distance is the armhole measurement plus ½ an inch. The points must belong to the same pattern and can only be points of the external contour. In order to create a Curve Measurement: •

Select the Curve tool from the Dimension toolbar.

•

Click on the first point, and then click on the last point.

•

Drag the mouse to the place on the screen where the rule should appear. Click again.

•

An Edit Dimension dialog box will open. In the Expression filed of this dialog, enter the required Expression.

•

After the Expression has been added, click OK. The new rule will appear on the screen.


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The Accessories Toolbar

This toolbar contains a group of tools that you can use to manipulate pieces as well as its segments.

Walk

The Walk tool is used to walk two pieces against each other. This tool is used after the pieces to be walked have been locked together on a shared point using the Move (hand) tool. ! ! Tip: To back up one step, use the Undo command in the

Edit menu or use

Ctrl + Z. ! ! Note: Refer to the Piece chapter for a detailed description of the Walk

feature.

Measure

Select the Measure tool to measure distances between any two points. The points can be vertical, horizontal or diagonal. To Measure Distances: •

Select the Measure tool.


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•

Click the point to begin the measurement.

•

Move the cursor to the point where the measurement is to end and click the mouse.

•

The All Dimension Values dialog box displays showing the measurement.

•

Click OK.

Trace Piece

Select the Trace tool to create a new pattern piece out of two or more pieces laying on top of each other, thereby creating a conjunction of the pieces. This tool traces the intersecting lines of the pieces in order to create a new piece. (See the diagram below). To Create a New Piece with the Trace Tool: •

Place the pieces to be joined overlapping in the working area.

•

Select the TRACE tool.

•

Click the mouse button on any point of the new perimeter. The whole piece becomes highlighted in red.

•

Click the next point in a clockwise direction on the intersecting segment from the second piece. The PDS software generates a new piece from the intersections of the original pieces

•

Once all segments are traced, shown by the new form highlighted in red, click the Trace tool on a blank area of the


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working screen. •

The newly created piece is displayed in the Piece Display Bar as an individual piece.

Join Pieces

The Join Piece tool is used to join two different pieces together as one along a shared segment. If the two pieces have the same length and angle, they are joined perfectly. If they do not have the same length and angle, and if the line segments are not parallel, the pieces are joined, but their junction is not perfect. It may be necessary to edit the intersecting lines on the newly joined piece. Patterns may be cut multiple times and rejoined. To Join Pieces: •

Select the Join Pieces tool.

•

Click within one piece, near the segment where the pieces are to


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be joined. •

Drag the cursor to the other pattern (crossing the common segments of both patterns).

•

Click the mouse button a second time.

•

When the join Pieces Alongside dialog displays, click OK to accept the joining.


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! ! Note: It is recommended to join two pieces at the beginning or end of a

segment. One point will always be shared by both pieces. Join Pieces Dialog Box:

To join pieces into one single piece, unchecked the "Move Pieces Along Side Only option ! ! Tip:

Since the join pieces tool is joining two segments even if they do not have the same length, the direction of pointing is important. The first


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clicked piece becomes stationary and the second piece will move towards the first one. The joining point is the closest point right to the line that is created by the join tool. Delete Seam:

Select this option to delete the seam between the joined pieces, making the joined pieces one individual piece. Move Piece Along Side Only:

Select this option to move the pieces next to each other only, without deleting the seam in between the pieces. The two pieces remain separate individual pieces.

Cut

Use the Cut tool to cut a piece. The Cut tool draws a line across the piece and splits the piece along the line. The line may be a simple, two point’s line. Or it may be a multi point curved line. The PDS software has the ability to automatically grade the piece along the cut if grading is necessary. This eliminates figuring out difficult grading values. To Cut a Piece: •

Select the Cut tool.

•

Click the mouse on the boundary of the piece where the cut is to begin.

•

When the Move dialog box displays, either enter values to specify the exact location of the first point, or press OK or the


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Enter key to bypass this dialog box. •

Click the mouse where the next point of the cut line is to be placed. Repeat steps #3 and step #4 until the cut line reaches another boundary line of the piece.

•

When the dialog box displays asking, “Do you want to align cutting by base size?”select NO to automatically grade along the cut, or select YES not to grade the cut.

•

When the Seam Attributes dialog box displays, enter the desired seam width and corner types

•

Click OK.

! ! Tip: To create a curved cut line, hold the Shift key down when clicking the

mouse to select a point. ! ! Tip: If you need to cut the piece along a known angle

you can use the F2 key just after you clicked the first (start) point of the piece.

Draft

Use the Draft tool to draft multi point internal lines. To Draft a Line: •

Select the Draft tool.

•

Click the mouse anywhere on the selected piece.

•

When the Add A Contour Relative To Current Point dialog box displays, enter specific values for exact placement of the point


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or select OK to bypass this dialog. •

Repeat Steps #2 and #3 until the desired line is constructed.

•

To finish drafting the line, click the right mouse button and select Finish Draft from the pop up menu.

! ! Tip: To create a curved cut line, hold the Shift key down when clicking the

mouse to select a point.

Cut Along Internal

Use Cut Along Internal to cut (split) a piece along an existing internal line. The internal line has to start and end exactly on the pieces external perimeter line. To Cut Along an Internal: •

Select the Cut Along Internal tool.

•

Click the mouse somewhere along the internal line where the piece is to be cut.

•

When the dialog box displays asking, “Do you want to align cutting by base size?, select NO to automatically grade along the cut, or select YES not to grade the cut.

•

When the Seam Attributes dialog box displays, enter the desired seam width and corner types.

•

Click OK.


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Trace Segments

Trace Segments is used to trace segments from an existing piece in order to create a new piece. For example, this tool is often used to create facing and lining pattern pieces. It is possible to use the trace tool to create a new piece from two existing pieces. To Trace Segments: •

Select the Trace Segments tool.

•

Click the mouse on each line segment from which to create the new piece. Select line segments in the clockwise direction. Each segment highlights in red during the selection process and an ‘X’ mark will appear on the next grading point.

•

When all segments are selected (a closed contour shape has been defined), a dialog box displays asking, “Finish form contour?”. Click YES to complete the tracing procedure. Click NO to continue tracing, or click CANCEL to cancel the procedure entirely.

•

The new piece appears on top of the original piece. Use the Move (hand) Tool to move the new piece away from the original piece.


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! Note: When you use the draft tool and you want to zoom ! Note

out, click on the mouse right button. From the menu that will appear, click on “Select Tool” with the mouse left button + Ctrl key!

! Note: To delete the line, select the line with the pointer tool and press the ! Note

Delete key. Or, select the line with the pointer tool and select Delete Internal Elements from the Edit menu. Another Another way to delete the line is to use the Undo tool, the Undo command in the Edit menu, or press Ctrl + Z .

Build Piece

Build piece is used to build pieces from an existing pieces in order to create a. pattern pieces. It is possible to use the trace tool to create a new piece from two existing pieces.


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To Built piece: •

Select the built piece tool.

•

Click the mouse on the first area for the new piece. The closed counter will be highlight.

•

Click the mouse on the next area to be joined to the new piece

•

The counter of the new piece will highlight.

•

In order to place the build piece click on the selected area again.

•

The new piece appears on top of the original piece. Use the Move (hand) Tool to move the new piece away from the original piece.

Fold Out

Use the Fold out tool to fold out part of a pattern piece. This toll is commonly used to make pattern pieces with attached facings. To Use the Fold Out Tool: •

Create an internal line on the pattern piece using the Make Parallel command in the Design Menu. (see the Design Chapter).

•

Click on the Fold Out tool.

•

Click on the mirror line of the pattern piece. (see the diagram below).


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•

Click on the newly added internal fold line.

•

Delete unnecessary internal lines. (See the diagram below to review the new pattern piece with the fold out facing).

OptiTex PDS User Manual

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