SEWING MACHINE OPERATIONS MANNUAL PREPARED BY:
ORIENT CRAFT FASHFION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY T ECHNOLOGY Chenetha bhavan, Nampally, Hyderabad- 500 001
SUBMITTED TO:
GERMAN DEVELOPMENT CO-OPERATION-GTZ CO-OPERATION-GTZ 21, Jor Bagh, New Delhi – 110 003
Page | 1
CONTENTS PARTICULARS
Page No.
6
CHAPTER – CHAPTER – I I
INTRODUCTION CHAPTER – CHAPTER – II II SEWING MACHINE 1. INVENTION OF THE SEWING MACHINE 2. HISTORY OF SEWING MACHINE 3. PARTS OF SEWING MACHINE 4. MACHINE TERMINOLOGY 5. MODERN INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES A. MULTI - NEEDLE PLEAT GAUGE B. OVERLOCK MACHINE C. BARTAK SEWING MACHINE D. BUTTON SEWING MACHINE E. BUTTON HOLE MACHINE F. FEED OF THE ARM 6. MEASURING TOOLS CHAPTER – CHAPTER – III III SELECTION CRITERIA FOR SMO TRAINEES 1. Page board test 2. Color Blindness 3. Visual Dexterity CHAPTER - IV - TRAINING OF SEWING MACAHINE OPERATORS 1. PAPER EXERCIESES
7 To 22
23 To 27
28 To 87 29 to 61
A. Pedal Control at Maximum Velocity B. Precise stops at maximum speed C. Straight stitches at maximum velocity D. Change of Direction with Needle Down E. Sewing Curve with One Hand F. Sewing in Circles G. Judging changes of direction H. Sewing curves I. Over Lock Sewing straight line J. Over Lock Exact stop K. Sewing curves
2. THREADING OF MACHINE (Single needle lock stitch machine)
62 To 65
Page | 2
CONTENTS PARTICULARS
Page No.
6
CHAPTER – CHAPTER – I I
INTRODUCTION CHAPTER – CHAPTER – II II SEWING MACHINE 1. INVENTION OF THE SEWING MACHINE 2. HISTORY OF SEWING MACHINE 3. PARTS OF SEWING MACHINE 4. MACHINE TERMINOLOGY 5. MODERN INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES A. MULTI - NEEDLE PLEAT GAUGE B. OVERLOCK MACHINE C. BARTAK SEWING MACHINE D. BUTTON SEWING MACHINE E. BUTTON HOLE MACHINE F. FEED OF THE ARM 6. MEASURING TOOLS CHAPTER – CHAPTER – III III SELECTION CRITERIA FOR SMO TRAINEES 1. Page board test 2. Color Blindness 3. Visual Dexterity CHAPTER - IV - TRAINING OF SEWING MACAHINE OPERATORS 1. PAPER EXERCIESES
7 To 22
23 To 27
28 To 87 29 to 61
A. Pedal Control at Maximum Velocity B. Precise stops at maximum speed C. Straight stitches at maximum velocity D. Change of Direction with Needle Down E. Sewing Curve with One Hand F. Sewing in Circles G. Judging changes of direction H. Sewing curves I. Over Lock Sewing straight line J. Over Lock Exact stop K. Sewing curves
2. THREADING OF MACHINE (Single needle lock stitch machine)
62 To 65
Page | 2
A. Thread the Machine and and Draw up the Bobbin Bobbin Thread Thread B. Threading the bobbin case case C. Bobbin winding 3. FABRIC EXERCISES
66 To 87
A. Sewing 6”x 6” Sewing off th e material
B. Sewing 6”x 6” Staying Within Material C. Sewing 6”x 6” back tack D. Sew Over 3 Sides 6”x 12” E. 12 X 6 Top stitch F. Backtack 6”x 1`2”
G. Baste 6” X 6” in Chain
CHAPTER - V
88 To 90
MEASUREMENTS MEASUREMENTS AND SIZE CHART 1. CIRCUMFERENCE MEASUREMENTS 2. STANDARD MEASUREMENT FOR CHILDREN 3. STANDARD MEASUREMENT FOR TEENAGERS
CHAPTER - VI
91 To 100
MACHINE MAINTAINANCE & SAFETY PRECATIONS A. Safety- Rules B. Important safety instructions C. Machine adjustments and control
CHAPTER - VII
101 To 112
NEEDLE 1. SELECTION OF NEEDLE 2. PART OF THE MACHINE NEEDLS 3. STANDARD NEEDLES 4. TYPE OF NEEDLE AND THEIR USE 5. NEEDLE SIZE AND RELEVANCE OF TYPE OF THE MATERIAL TO BE STICHED
CHAPTER - VIII
113 To 116
SEWING THREAD AND SELECTION CRITERIA
CHAPTER - IX
117 To 127
TYPES OF STITCHES AND SEAM 1. STITCH CLASSIFICATIONS 2. SEAM TYPES AND CLASSIFICATIONS 3. SEAMS & STITCHES OF MEN`S SHIRT 4. SEAMS & STITCHES OF MENS`S TROUSER 5. SEAMS & STITCHES OF DENIM TROUSER 6. SEAMS & STITCHES OF POLO T - SHIRT
Page | 3
7. SEAMS & STITCHES OF ROUND NECK T – SHIRT
CHAPTER - X
128 To 132
DIFFERENT TYPES OF SEWING DEFECTS & REMIDIES 1. DOUBLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH MACHINE 2. BUTTON HOLING SEWING MACHINE 3. BUTTON STITCH MACHINE 4. OVER LOCK MACHINE
CHAPTER - XI - GARMENT MANUFACTURING
133 To 226
PARTS AND ASSEMBLY PREPARATION OF A SHIRT 1. Straight Long Seams with minimal bursts 2. Attaching one piece to other using folder 3. Placket facing attach using folder 4. Hemming operations using folder 5. Square pocket attach 6. Rounded bottom pocket attach 7. Bottom triangle pocket attach 8. Diamond pocket attach 9. Long & Short seams with needle down stoppages at corners 10. Collar run stitch operation
11. Top stitch along edges 12. Hem along the contour 13. Mock neck band hem 14. Sewing with template 15. Mock pick stitching 16. Top stitch handling tree piles 17. Mock centre stitch collar 18. Mock topstitch collar 19. Cuff hem 20. Mock run stitch cuffs 21. Binding operation 22. Binding operation using a folder 23. Mock continuous slv placket attach using a folder 24. Mock split edge placket attach operation using folder 25. Attach two plies using folder 26. Pleats 27. Mock yoke attach with folder 28. Shoulder attach without folder 29. Topstitch shoulder
Page | 4
30. Shoulder attach using folder 31. Sew contour fabric to straight fabric 32. Mock collar attach 33. Binding operations 34. Mock collar finish 35. Lap seam along contour 36. Mock sleeve attach operation (Lap Seam) 37. Lap seam along contour using folder 38. Mock sleeve attach operation (Lap seam) with folder 39. Topstitch along contour over lap seam 40. Topstitch along contour over lap seam using folder 41. Topstitch sleeve attach 42. Topstitch sleeve attach using folder 43. Hemming long contours (Curved) 44. Long straight hemming 45. Hemming long contours (Curved) using folder 46. Long straight hemming using folder
CHAPTER – XII
227 To 241
DIFFERENT TYPES OF SEWING ATTACHMENTS AND USE ON MACHINE 1. Various Collar Operations 2. Yoking and Shoulder Joining: 3. Pocket Hemming 4. Cuff Hemming - Short Sleeve 5. Tail Hemming 6. Button Stay Hemming 7. Cuff Hemming - Long Sleeve 8. Setting Sleeve Plackets 9. Closing Side Seams 10. Sleeve Setting 11. Attach Center Placket 12. Pleat Gauge
CHAPTER – XII MONTHLY SCHEDULE FOR SEWING MACHINE OPERATOR TRAINING PROGRAMME
242 To 243
Page | 5
CHAPTER - I INTRODUCTION Apparel and Textile industry in India is the largest employer after agriculture. It provides direct employment to 35 million people and another 56 million are engaged in related activities. Around 14% of industrial production of the country is contributed by the sector. Indeed the apparel sector place a major role in Indian economy and also in foreign exchange earnings. Apparel exports contribute approximately 9% in Ind ia’s total exports earnings and accounts for about 4% of world trade in textiles and apparels. It is pertinent to mention that the apparel sector predominantly consist of Small and Medium Enterprises (SMEs). With the abolition of quota regime under WTO and opening of markets, there is competition from many countries to retain the existing global market share and also look for new markets. India has set a target under 11 th plan to earn $ 50 billion through exports of textiles and apparels. To reach the target Indian apparel industry has to work on many fronts to be successful in a totally competitive international environment particularly focusing on factors like development of skilled human resource, quality and productivity, design development and product diversification and improving lead time and pricing, effective marketing management. Indian Small and Medium Enterprises (SMEs) alone cannot attain competitiveness without the support of likeminded international partners like German Technical Co operation (GTZ) to enhance the competitiveness of SMEs. Indeed GTZ is committed under SME Financing and Development Project for the development of apparel sector and identified it as the priority sector for intervention. Against the back ground the GTZ has undertaken the task of MSMEs competency building through business development services in Readymade garments cluster at Hyderabad with the support of Orient Craft Fashion Institute of Technology (OCFIT) particularly in preparing manual for sewing machine operators. In furtherance of the same, OCFIT with a view to assist development of readymade garment cluster in Hyderabad focusing around 50 RMGs (16 micro units, 14 small units and 20 medium and large units), studied their working pattern, commercial viability and prepared this manual to assist the sewing machine operators. Indeed this manual is prepared based on best international sewing practices world over with a focus on exports of readymade garments from India through SMEs.
Page | 6
CHAPTER - II SEWING MACHINE
Page | 7
1. INVENTION OF THE SEWING MACHINE The democratization of fashion began with the invention of the sewing machine, which turned a handicraft into an industry. The sewing machine made the mass production of clothing possible. In 1829, a French tailor named Thimmonier patented a wooden chain-stitch sewing machine, but all existing models were destroyed by rioting tailors who feared for their jobs. Walter Hunt, an American, developed a sewing machine in 1832 but failed to patent it. Thus, the man who is usually credited with its invention is Elias Howe, who patented his in 1846. All of Howe’s machines were run by hand. In 1859, Isaac Singer, whose name has become a household word because of his mass production of the sewing machine. He developed the foot treadle, an improvement that left the hands free to guide the fabric, and mass-produced these machines. Singer spent $1 million a year on sales promotion and, by 1867, was producing a thousand machines per day (Electrically powered models were not available until 1921). To save time and to keep control over production, entrepreneurs brought workers and machinery together in factories. This caused many people in search of work to move to the cities where the factories were located. In 1849, when the Gold Rush attracted thousands of men in California in search of gold, a 20year old Bavarian immigrant by the name of Levi Strauss opened a dry goods store in San Francisco. In 1873 he began to manufacture long-wearing pants with riveted pockets, using a tough cotton fabric called serge de Nimes. (Loomed in Nimes, France), later shortened to denim. They are an item of wearing apparel that has remained basically the same for nearly 150 years. Another early use for sewing machines was to make Civil War uniforms. The Union army recorded the chest an height measurements of more than a million soldiers to come up with the first standardization of sizes. After the war, sewing machines and uniform sizing promoted the mass production of everyday men’s wear.
Page | 8
2. HISTORY OF SEWING MACHINE Historians of the early days of the sewing machine can argue for hours over the simple matter of who invented what is, in many ways, one of the most important machines ever devised. The story really starts in 1755 in London when a German immigrant, Charles Wiesenthal, took out a patent for a needle to be used for mechanical sewing. There was no mention of a machine to go with it, and another 34 years were to pass before Englishman Thomas Saint invented what is generally considered to be the first real sewing machine. In 1790 the cabinet maker patented a machine with which an awl made a hole in leather and then allowed a needle to pass through. Critics of Saint's claim to fame point out that quite possibly Saint only patented an idea and that most likely the machine was never built. It is known that when an attempt was made in the 1880s to produce a machine from Saint's drawings it would not work without considerable modification. The story then moves to Germany where, in around 1810, inventor Balthasar Krems developed a machine for sewing caps. No exact dates can be given for the Krems models as no patents were taken out. An Austrian tailor Josef Madersperger produced a series of machines during the early years of the 19th century and received a patent in 1814. He was still working on the invention in 1839, aided by grants from the Austrian government, but he failed to get all the elements together successfully in one machine and eventually died a pauper. Two more inventions were patented in 1804, one in France to a Thomas Stone and a James Henderson -- a machine which attempted to emulate hand sewing -- and another to a Scott John Duncan for an embroidery machine using a number of needles. Nothing is known of the fate of either invention. America's first real claim to fame came in 1818 when a Vermont churchman John Adams Doge and his partner John Knowles produced a device which, although making a reasonable stitch, could only sew a very short length of material before laborious re-setting up was necessary. One of the more reasonable claimants for inventor of the sewing machine must be Barthelme Thimmonier who, in 1830, was granted a patent by the French government. He used a barbed needle for his machine which was built almost entirely of wood. It is said that he originally designed the machine to do embroidery, but then saw its potential as a sewing machine.
Page | 9
Unlike any others who went before him, he was able to convince the authorities of the usefulness of his invention and he was eventually given a contract to build a batch of machines and use them to sew uniforms for the French army. In less than 10 years after the granting of his patent Thimmonier had a factory running with 80 machines, but then ran into trouble from Parisian tailors. They feared that, were his machines successful, they would soon take over from hand sewing, putting the craftsmen tailors out of work. Late one night a group of tailors stormed the factory, destroying every machine, and causing Thimmonier to flee for his life. With a new partner he started again, produced a vastlyimproved machine and looked set to go into full-scale production; but the tailors attacked again. With France in the grip of revolution, Thimmonier could expect little help from the police or army and fled to England with the one machine he was able to salvage. He certainly produced the first practical sewing machine, was the first man to offer machines for sale on a commercial basis and ran the first garment factory. For all that, he died in the poor house in 1857. In America a quaker Walter Hunt invented, in 1833, the first machine which did not try to emulate hand sewing. It made a lock stitch using two spools of thread and incorporated an eye-pointed needle as used today. But again it was unsuccessful for it could only produce short, straight, seams. Nine years later Hunt's countryman, John Greenough, produced a working machine in which the needle passed completely through the cloth. Although a model was made and exhibited in the hope of raising capital for its manufacture, there were no takers. Perhaps all the essentials of a modern machine came together in early 1844 when Englishman John Fisher invented a machine which although designed for the production of lace, was essentially a working sewing machine. Probably because of miss-filing at the patent office, this invention was overlooked during the long legal arguments between Singer and Howe as to the origins of the sewing machine. Despite a further flurry of minor inventions in the 1840s, most Americans will claim that the sewing machine was invented by Massachusetts farmer Elias Howe who completed his first prototype in 1844 just a short time after Fisher. A year later it was patented and Howe set about trying to interest the tailoring trade in his invention. He even arranged a competition with his machine set against the finest hand sewers in America. The machine won hands down but the world wasn't ready for mechanized sewing and, despite months of demonstrations, he had still not made a single sale. Desperately in debt Howe sent his brother Amasa to England with the machine in the hope that it would receive more interest on the other side of the Atlantic. Amasa could find only one backer, a corset maker William Thomas, who eventually bought the rights to the invention and arranged for Elias to come to London to further develop the machine.
Page | 10
The two did not work well together, each accusing the other of failing to honor agreements and eventually Elias, now almost penniless, returned to America. When he arrived home he found that the sewing machine had finally caught on and that dozens of manufacturers, including Singer, were busy manufacturing machines -- all of which contravened the Howe patents. A long series of law suits followed and were only settled when the big companies, including Wheeler & Wilson and Grover & Baker, joined together, pooled their patents, and fought as a unit to protect their monopoly. Singer did not invent any notable sewing-machine advances, but he did pioneer the hirepurchase system and aggressive sales tactics. Both Singer and Howe ended their days as multi-millionaires. So the argument can go on about just who invented the sewing machine and it is unlikely that there will ever be agreement. What is clear, however, is that without the work of those long-dead pioneers, the dream of mechanized sewing would never have been realized.
Page | 11
3. PARTS OF SEWING MACHINE:
Page | 12
4. MACHINE TERMINOLOGY The parts of the lockstitch machine, which are identified below. Arm
The horizontal part of the head that houses the drive shafts.
Bed
The working surface of the machine under winch is located the mechanism at handles the lower thread. On a flat bed machine, the bed rests In the cut-out of the table.
Belt (motor belt or machine
The circular strap that transmits motion from the pulley to the hand
belt)
wheel, allowing the machine to operate.
Bobbin Mechanism
The parts - bobbin, bobbin case, and bobbin tension spring - that control the lower thread and Its tension.
Bobbin winder
The part that fills another bobbin while the machine is stitching.
check spring (tension spring or
A small wire spring behind or at the top of the tension discs. It provides
take-up spring)
a. small amount of tension on the needle thread and acts as a shock absorber. On some machines, the check spring is mounted separately.
The cover on the left side of the bead that covers the needle bar and the
Faceplate
presser bar. feed dogs (feed dog, feeder or
The toothed mechanism beneath the presser foot that moves fabric
feed) fly wheel)
forward and backward.
Fittings
The parts - presser foot, feed dogs, and throat plate - that control the cloth during stitching.
Hand
wheel
(balance
or
The part that controls the motion of the machine manually and/or
flywheel)
electrically.
Head
The part of the machine above the table, containing the stitching mechanism.
Heel
The back of the presser foot.
Hook(rotary hook or machine
A rotating device that hooks the needle thread to carry it around the
hook)
bobbin and form the “lock” on t he lockstitch.
Knee Lift (Knee Lifter or knee
A lever mounted at the right under the sewing table to lift and lower the
press)
presser foot with the right knee.
Motor
The electrical unit that drives the machine.
Page | 13
Needle
The part that penetrates the fabric. It carries the thread to the hook or shuttle and up again to make the stitch.
Needle bar
A vertical bar that holds one or more needles and moves the needle up and down.
Needle screw (needle bar clamp)
The screw that holds the needle in the needle bar.
Oil gauge
The part that Indicates the amount of oil in self-oiling machines.
Pan (machine pan)
The metal pan. under the head that catches oil, lint and metal shards. On self-lubricating machines, it holds the oil.
Presser bar
The bar to which the presser foot is attached.
Presser bar lifter
A lever at the back of presser bar to raise and lower the presser foot by hand. It is used to raise the presser foot when winding a bobbin and when not stitching.(Its use is discouraged in industrial sewing because it wastes time and energy).
Presser foot
A device that holds the fabric in place for stitching.
Pressure regulator
Control that regulates the amount of pressure on the (pressure dial) presser foot.
Pretension
A simple tension disc used to regulate the thread so that it will feed into the tension assembly evenly.
Pulley
The wheel attached to the motor. It transmits motion from the motor to the hand wheel by means of a leather belt.
Rotary hook assembly
The part that holds the bobbin case.
Shuttle
An oscillating device that carries the needle thread around the bobbin and forms the “lock” on the lockstitch.
Slack thread regulator
A metal hook or bar near the tension discs.
Slide plate (slide or bed slide)
A removable cover at the left of the machine bed that bed allows access to the lower mechanism.
Sole (shoe or slipper)
The bottom part of the presser foot that contracts the cloth.
Stand
A metal structure upon which the table is mounted.
Stitch hole (needle hole)
The hole in the throat plate. The needle carries the thread into the hole so that it can interlock with the bobbin thread.
Stitch regulator
A device that regulates stitch length.
Switch (power switch)
A key or button that turns the machine on and off.
Page | 14
Table
The cabinet upon which the bead rests, it generally has a drawer on the left side.
Take-up lever
The part that first loosens the top thread during the stitch formation, then removes any slack to set or lock the stitch.
Take-up lever guard
A piece of metal in front of the thread take-up lever.
Tension discs
Two concave discs that control the delivery of the upper thread from the spool to the needle.
Thread guides (thread eyelets)
The parts that guide the thread from the thread cone (thread eyelets) to the needle. They smooth the thread and protect it from abrasion.
Thread retainer (pretension)
A three-hole guide that applies a small amount of tension on the thread so it win flow into the tension discs uniformly.
Thread stand
A metal device that holds thread cones.
Throat plate
The smooth surface directly under the presser foot that includes the stitch hole and surrounds the feed dog. It protects the lower mechanism from a build-up of excess lint.
Toes (Prongs)
The front end of the presser foot, or the part that faces the oncoming cloth. It is frequently upturned. On feet such as the zipper foot, cording foot, and shirring foot, there is only one toe.
Treadle (foot treadle)
A metal platform on which the feet rest.(Note: In case of an accident, the clutch control releases the hand wheel so that it can be turned).
Page | 15
5. MODERN INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES A. MULTI – NEEDLE PLEAT GAUGE
Imperial multi-needle pleat gauges for tuxedo front shirts - both men's and ladies'. Several pleat types are available; including exposed and covered types illustrated above. Attachments available for Union Special 54400 (type 401 stitch) machines or 52 Class (type 101 stitch) machine. Exact finish size and samples are required. Please Submit Samples with Order. Both Union Special 54400 and Imperial 52 Class machines also available.
Page | 16
B. OVERLOCK MACHINE
Type of stitch Machine speed Type of motor used
Lock stitch 2500[s.p.m/r.p.m] Induction motor
Type of lubrication Oil used Type of feed Type of needle Type of bed Purpose of machine Power consumption
Automatic G2 Different feed DP X 5 Cylindrical bed Loops attaching 3/4HP
Page | 17
C. BARTACK SEWING MACHINE
Type of stitch Machine speed Type of motor used
Lock stitch 2500[s.p.m/r.p.m] Induction motor
Type of lubrication Oil used Type of feed Type of needle Type of bed Purpose of machine Power consumption
Automatic G2 Different feed DP X 5 Cylindrical bed Loops attaching 3/4HP
Page | 18
D. BUTTON SEWING MACHINE
Type of stitch Machine speed Type of motor used Type of lubrication Oil used Type of feed Type of needle Type of bed Purpose of machine Power consumption
Lock stitch 2500[s.p.m/r.p.m] Induction motor Automatic G2 Different feed DP X 17 Cylindrical bed Button sewing 3/4HP
Page | 19
E. BUTTON HOLE MACHINE
Type of stitch Machine speed Type of motor used Type of lubrication Oil used Type of needle Type of bed Purpose of machine Power consumption
Lock stitch [bobbin, bobbin case are used]. 3600 -4000[s.p.m/r.p.m] Induction motor Automatic G1 DP X 5 Raised bed Making button holes 3/4HP
Page | 20
F. FEED OF THE ARM
Type of stitch Machine speed Type of motor used Type of lubrication Oil used Type of feed Type of needle Type of bed Purpose of machine Power consumption
Chine stitch 4000[s.p.m/r.p.m] Clutch motor Automatic & manuals G1 Needle feed TV X 1orTV X 64 Cylindrical bed Joining sleeves, side of trouser 1/2 HP
Page | 21
6. MEASURING TOOLS
Paper Scissors Fabric Scissors
Seam ripper
Measuring Tape
Tracing Wheel Trimmer
Measuring Scale Pencil & Eraser Page | 22
CHAPTER-III
SELECTION CRITERIA FOR SMO TRAINEES
Page | 23
The Candidate for the SMO Training Programme must have the minimum qualification of 8 th Standard. The Candidate’s age preferably should be between 18 to 25 years.
The objective of the program is to meet the skill requirements of the apparel industry and to create gainful employment opportunities for rural BPL families in apparel industry. So, keeping in view the requirements of the industry, the candidate for the SMO Programme has to pass through the following tests: 1. PEG BOARD TEST
The Peg Board Test is conducted to know the hand movement of the candidate. The Purdue Pegboard has been used extensively for various applications. It has two types of activity: one measures gross movements of the hands, fingers, and arms, and the other measures assembly or fingertip dexterity. The Peg Board Test consists of a rectangular board that holds cylindrical pegs. The pegs are approximately two inch (2.5 cm) in height, and are colored red on one side, black on the other. Two tests were chosen for this research. The peg board test requires subjects to transfer the pegs from one hole in the tray to another. The peg board test requires subjects to pick up a peg, transfer it to the other hand while turning it over, and replace it with the opposite side facing up. The operator will be given 80 sec of time to complete it. The operator has to complete the exercises given in the given span of period.
Page | 24
2. COLOR BLINDNESS TEST
The colour blindness test used test to check color vision deficiencies. There are different sets available which are often used for pilot, police officer and other job recruitments, where perfect colour vision is a precondition. This is a test plate in which everyone should see a "12".
This plate is designed to separate the type of color defectives and the level to which they are observed. Most will see the number "26" clearly while some will only see a "2" or a "6" or no numerals at all.
Can you trace a line from one "X" to the other? Someone with normal color vision will trace an orange/brown purple line and those with a slight deficiency will follow a different path.
Page | 25
Some of the Examples are:
The operator will be shown 10 figures. Each carries 5 sec of time. The operator must be able to recognize the Letter or Number which is in the Figure in the given span of time.
Page | 26
3. VISUAL DEXTERITY TEST Example: 8 5 3 2 7 6 9 4 10
Practice:
Visual Dexterity test is the crucial one which plays major role in knowing the Eye Coordination of the operator. Eye coordination is a crucial skill involving how effective we are at translating what our eyes see into appropriate physical responses, such as anticipating the motion of a line in its way so that we could find out the exact destiny of the line. The operator will be given two exercises; each carries 30 sec of time to complete it. The operator has to complete the exercises given in the given span of period.
Page | 27
CHAPTER-IV TRAINING OF SEWING MACHINE OPERATORS
1. PAPER EXERCISES
Page | 28
A.
Pedal Control at Maximum Velocity
MACHINE: SNLS
EXERCISE – 1
DURATION: 6 SECS
P O T S
Page | 29
Machine: SNLS
Pedal Control at Maximum Velocity
Exercise :
Starting Position:
Goal:
Exercise Number :
6 Seconds
Paper Exercise #1
Illustration:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine. Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Place paper under the machine so that the dotted line lies directly under the needle. Sew at maximum speed without leaving boundary. stop at the end of the column with the needle at top position (1 stitch tolerance). Raise the foot and slide the paper to the next column. Place paper under the machine so that the dotted line lies directly under the needle. Sew the second line until the end. Raise the foot and slide paper to the next column. Stop the chronometer when apprentice sets paper on the third column.
Security
Hold the paper with the thumb under the paper. Maintain fingers away from needle at all times. use glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair. Quality
Do not tear paper. The stitch line should remain straight and within the column limits Ergonomics
Sited in front of the sewing machine. Both feet on pedal
Page | 30
chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward.
Waste
Throw away used paper. Use paper several times Abilities developed
Pedal control Straight stitches centered at a 3/8” at maximum velocity.
Use of knee lift to elevate machine foot. Necessary material
SNLS without thread Paper exercise #1
Page | 31
Precise stops at maximum speed
B.
MACHINE: SNLS
EXERCISE – EXERCISE – 2
DURATION: 6 SECS
START
STOP
Page | 32
Machine: SNLS
Goal: 6 Seconds
Exercise : Precise stops at maximum maximum speed speed Starting Position:
Exercise Number : Paper exercise # 2
Illustration:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine. Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Place paper under the machine so that the dotted line lies directly under the needle. Sew at maximum speed without leaving boundary. st stop at the end of the 1 column with the needle at top position (1 stitch tolerance). Raise the foot and slide the paper to the next column. Place paper under the machine so that the dotted line lies directly under the needle. Sew the second line until the end. Raise the foot and slide paper to the next column. Stop the chronometer when apprentice sets paper on the third column.
Security
Hold the paper with the thumb under the paper. Maintain fingers away from needle at all times. use glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair. Quality
Do not tear paper. The stitch line should remain straight and within the column limits Ergonomics
Sited in front of the sewing machine. Both feet on pedal
Page | 33
chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing forward. Waste
Throw away used paper. Use paper several times Abilities developed
Pedal control Straight stitches centered at a 3/8” at maximum velocity. Use of knee lift to elevate machine foot. Necessary material
SNLS without thread Paper exercise #2
Page | 34
C.
MACHINE: SNLS
Straight stitches at maximum velocity
EXERCISE – 3
DURATION: 10 SECS
S
P R
T S
Page | 35
Machine: SNLS
Goal : 10 Seconds
Straight stitches at maximum velocity
Exercise :
Starting Position:
Exercise Number : Paper exercise #3
Illustration:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine. Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Place paper under the machine so that the dotted line lies directly under the needle. Sew at maximum speed in a straight line within boundaries. Stop with the pedal at the end of the rectangle with the needle at the top position. Make sure the stitches do not leave the rectangle. Lift the machine’s foot and slide paper so that the second dotted line lies directly under the needle. Sew at maximum speed in a straight line within boundaries. Stop with the pedal once the apprentice has reached the end of the rectangle, keeping the needle in the top position. Lift the machine’s foot and slide paper so that the third dotted line lies directly under the needle. The chronometer is stopped once the paper is placed under the third dotted line.
Note:
Each cycle includes two lines
Security
Hold the paper with the thumb under the paper. Maintain fingers away from needle at all times. Use glasses. Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair. Quality Do not tear paper. The stitch line should remain straight and within Boundaries. Ergonomics
Sited in front of the sewing machine. Both feet on pedal Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Page | 36
Back rest facing forward.
Waste
Throw away used paper. Use paper several times Abilities developed
Exact Stops Straight stitches at maximum velocity centered at 118” margin. Use of knee lift to elevate machine foot. Necessary material SNLS without thread Paper exercise #3
Page | 37
