Ilkal saree (Kannada Kannada:: Ilkal saree (
ಇಳಕಲ ಸರ)
is a traditional form of saree saree which which is a
common feminine wear in India India.. Ilkal saree takes its name from the town of Ilkal Ilkal in in theBagalkot theBagalkot district of Karnataka Karnataka state, state, India India.. Ilkal sarees are woven using cotton warp on the body and art silk warp for border and art silk warp for pallu portion of the saree. In some cases instead of art silk, pure silk is also used. Ilkal saree has been accorded eographical Indication
!istory Ilkal was an ancient weaving centre where the weaving seems to have Ilkal was started in the "th century #$. %he growth of these sarees is attributed to the patronage provided by the local chieftains in and around the town of Bellary Bellary.. %he availability of local raw materials helped in the growth of this saree.#bout &'''' people in the town of Ilkal Ilkal are are engaged in saree weaving. ni*ueness •
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%he uni*ueness of saree is +oining of the body warp with pallu warp with a series of loops locally called as %- %/I techni*ue. %he weaver will gait only 0 yards, " yards, yards, 1 yards warp due to above %- %/I techni*ue. K/$I %echni*ue is used for weft through inserting 2 shuttles (లళ).
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-allau portion$esign: 3%- %/I 45#6 /ormally in tope teni seragu 2 solid portions would be in red colour, and in between & portions in white colour. %ope %eni seragu has been regarded as a state symbol and was greatly respected during festival occasions. %raditional Borders: (i) 7hikki, (ii) omi, (iii) 8ari and (iv) adidadi, and modern ayathri are uni*ue ones in Ilkal sarees width ranging from &.96 to 6 Border 7olour ni*ueness: 5ed usually or ;aroon dominates.
$escription %he peculiar characteristic of the saree is +oining the body warp with the pallu warp which is locally called as %- %/I. %his techni*ue is only used e06 to &?6. %he pallu threads and body threads are +oined in loop techni*ue, a typical method which is locally called as %- %/I. @eatures he distinctive feature of Ilkal sarees is the use of a form of embroidery called as Kasuti. %he designs used in Kasuti reAect traditional patters like palan*uins, elephants and lotuses which are embroidered onto Ilkal sarees. %hese sarees are usually 1 yards in length and the pallu of the Ilkal saree (the part worn over the shoulder) carries designs of temple towers. %his pallu is usually made of red silk with white patterns. 9C %he end region of the pallu is made up of patterns of diDerent shapes like hanige (comb), koti kammli (fort ramparts), toputenne (+owar) and rampa (mountain range). %he border of the sari is very broad ( to 0 inches) and red or maroon in colour and is made of diDerent designs with ochre patterns. %he saree is either made of cotton, or a mi
Types of Borders %he design woven in the length wise borders are mainly three types : •
omi (more popularly known as Ilkal dadi)
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-araspet (4ubdivided into chikki paras and dodd paras)
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aadi
Main Body design •
4tripes
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5ectangles
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4*uares
Other Dierences =ith above broad parameters the Ilkal sarees diDer in matters of siEe, nature and *uality of yarn used for diDerent portion of saree as also colour combination and combinations of designs on the borders and main body of the saree. %he beauty of %opeteni seragu is further enhanced at times by weaving in its middle portion, yet another design known as FKyadgiG.
-roduction =eaving of Ilkal sarees is mostly an indoor activity. It is essentially a household enterprise involving active participation of female members. %o weave one saree with the help of the handloom, it takes about ? days. =e can weave it with the help of the powerloom also. ;ethods of -roduction Ilkal traditional sarees are produced mainly on pit looms with the combination of three types of diDerent yarns namely 4ilk < 4ilk, 4ilk < 7otton, #rt silk < 7otton. #long with the above said yarn combination totally four diDerent traditional designs are produced they are 7hikki -aras, omi, 8ari and recently modiHed traditional design ayathri. %hese sarees are produced in diDerent lengths 0.'' yards, ".'' yards, and 1.'' yards with solid as well as contrast borders. %he main distinction in these sarees is its attached temple type -allav (locally called as %- %/I) by inter locking body warp and pallav warp using loop system and inserting weft by three shuttles using two diDerent colours yarn by Kondi techni*ue. # weaver re*uires apart from himself two others for preparatory work.
Ga dwa ls a r e esh a v eb ee ni ngr e atd ema n ds i n c et h e1 93 0s .Th es es a r e esa r ema dei nGa dwa lwh i c hi si nT el a ng a na s t at eofI n di a.Gadwal s i l ks ar e esandGadwal c ot t ons ar eesar eof t enl i ght wei ghtandv er ymuc heff or t l es si ndr api ngon. Kn ownf oradmi r abl ez ar i pat t er nsan dar emar k abl et r ai tofge t t i ngf ol de ddo wnt ot hes i z eofama t c hbo x ,t hes es ar ees beara nex c el l entar t wor kc al l ed‘ Kut t u’ .
dwa ls i l ks ar e es,Ga dwa lc ot t ons a r e e s co F amo usf o ri t sh an dwo v e nGa andGadwalSi s ar e es ,Gadwal whi c hi si nTe l ang anas t at ei sas mal l t o wns i t uat edbe t weent her i v e r sT ungabhadr aan d ees Kr i s hnao veranar eaofabout800s q. mi l es .Li ght wei ghtandeff or t l es si ndr api ngon,Gadwalsar ar e
r enownedf oradmi r abl ez ar i pat t er nsandwel l c r af t edKut t ubor der sandpal l us .Thepr oc es sof ees we av i n gGadwalsar bei ngc ar r i edoutmanual l y ,t heyar et r adi t i onal l ywov eni nt hei nt er l oc kedwef t
t e c hn i q uec a l l e dk u pa da mo rt i p pa da mul o c al l yandof t e nwi t hk o t ak o mmaal s oc a l l e dk u mba mi nt h e b or d er sa ndt h ust h eya r eal s ok no wnask o t a k o mmaork u mb am s a r e esl o c al l y .Th ewe av e rc o mmu ni t yi n Ga dwa lb el o ngt ot h eHi n duc ommu ni t ya ndmo s to ft h em s pe akMar a t h i .I n f a cta c co r d i n gt ot h eHi n du my t h ol o gy ,t he ya r ei d en t i fi eda st h ed es c en da nt sofJ ee v es hwa rMa har a j–we av e ro fHi n duDe v i De v t a s . Ar emar k abl et r ai tofget t i ngf ol deddownt ot hes i z eofamat c hboxandt heot herdi s t i nc tqual i t i esmak e Gadwal andGadwalsar l egendar yt oI ndi a. ees
