building
FLYING DUTCHMAN By Gerald Taylor White Design by Westlawn Associates. Naval Architects
I
F FLYING DUTCHMAN were a new and untried type of boat, you would be entitled to look at her plans and remark, "She looks wonderful on paper, but it is all too good to be true." For where else can you find a boat of this length that has a huge forecastle, an enclosed toilet room, a good galley, and two full-length berths, to say nothing of as much deck room as on the average 30-footer? FLYING DUTCHMAN is the latest of the GREY DAWN DAWN designs. The basic hull lines were developed in Holland centuries ago and boats of this type have been used ever since in both the shoal waters of the Zuyder Zee and the vicious waters of the North Sea. The first first of these Dutchmen Dutch men to be designed in this country was GREY DAWN DAWN II. She was built over 20 years year s ago and is is still afloat afloat.. During Dur ing her twotwo -
score-and-more years she has cruised the East Coast from Maine to the Carribbean, and her owner would have sailed her across to Europe Euro pe had it not been for for the war. She is a 37-footer. Scores of duplicates duplica tes have hav e been built and are now in service on both coasts, the Gulf, and the Great Lakes. Yachtsmen who saw the 37-footer wanted a smaller edition; so a 29-footer was designed. designed. Again Again the boat ou outt-pe perrformed all expectations. The next was a 22footer, the prototype of FLYING DUTCHMAN. MAN. In this, the most recent rece nt of the designs, the original lines have been kept without a single deviation—wise men do not gamble with perfection. Some changes, based on previous experiences, have been made in the deck and cabin arrangements. Here is an auxiliary that—for a boat of her size—is extremely easy to build. There
are no steam-bent frames, no cross-bending of parts. Some of the planks and the chines and clamps will be too stiff to go in cold. Wrap them with old rags or sacking and provide a supply of boiling water to be poured on the rags as the clamp screws are gradually tightened. She isn't a light little plaything, she is all boat; and, if built according to the plans and specifications, should last for at least 25 years. All of you may not be technically inclined, but to really appreciate the virtues of the boat, it may be worthwhile to consider for a few minutes some of the mathematical aspects of the design. Unlike most boats, her center of buoyancy is closer to the midship section than to the next station aft. This is an ideal situation if the entire underbody can be properly balanced. If you you will look at the drawing entitled Lines and Offsets, you will see a dotted line marked Curve of Areas. The shape of that line
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indicates the path of the water around and under the hull. Note that the forward and after ends of that curve are almost identical. In a motorboat, that would be fatal to speed; in a sailing craft, it is ideal from both the speed and rough-water angles. If the lines of FLYING DUTCHMAN could be compared with any American type, it would would be the Down-East Down-Ea st dory. But the dory is known for its lack of stability, while the GREY DAWN type is famed for exactly the opposite. The answer lies in the way the hull is balanced. Look at the Curve of Righting Arms on the Accommodation Plan. It represents the inherent power in the hull that causes it to return to an even keel. Many sailing boats have a curve that reaches its peak at about 30° and then falls off sharply. You will note that the stabilizing effect of this hull shape is still going upwards at even 40°. At any such angle, the deck edge would be way
Mechanix
Illustrated
under water. In other words, a careless skipper could actually sail the boat under water but she would still be struggling to right herself. In rough water, her widely flaring sides lift her up and over the seas instead of plunging through them. It would be severe weather indeed to cause this boat to drive her bow under. This is what designers call abnormally high reserve buoyancy. She is at her best with the wind abeam or slightly forward or aft aft of that tha t point. Going to windward, she will point up surprisingly well—as a stunt, a sister ship was sailed dead to windward, tacking up a channel 100 ft. in width—but her worst point of sailing is going dead before the wind, especially when running into rough water. Her bows are a bit bluff for this sort of work; so she will carry a heavy bow wave. The wise skipper will soon learn this and won't sail a direct downwind course. The power plant shown is a Universal 8-hp. Fisherman. Any small engine of about the same power will do providing that it doesn't turn over 1,500 r.p.m. Don't expect a little high-speed engine, turning a 10-in. propeller, to be sufficient. It is not the amount of power, but the combination of power and relatively low revolutions. If you must get a high-speed engine, it will have to have a reduction gear, for FLYING DUTCHMAN needs a propeller at least 14 in. in diameter, and 16 in. would be better yet. Like many successful auxiliaries, the engine is installed so the propeller is off center. Thus the natural tendency of a boat to be thrown off her course due to wheel torque is counteracted. This would not apply to the average motorboat as the area of lateral plane is much less and you would have steering troubles. Make up your mind to one thing before you build her—that you will not change a single line. Years of experience went into her design. The construction, shapes, locations of weights, and all other factors are correct the way they are shown. If you attempt to change any measurements, alter the rig, or monkey with weights, the
result will probably be a total waste of your time and money. FLYING DUTCHMAN is timed-tried, comfortable, reasonably fast, and built to last many, many years. Can you ask for for more in any boat? SPECIFICATIONS Length Lengt h Over All Length Lengt h Waterline Water line Beam, Extrem Ext remee Beam, Waterline Water line Draft, Board Up Draft, Board Down
22 18 9 7 20.5 4
ft. ft. ft. ft. ft. ft.
0 9 5.5 9
ft. 0
in. in. in. in. in. in.
General. The objects of these specifications are to help in explaining the drawings and to specify certain materials and sizes. In every case, dimensions mentioned in these specifications should be considered as authentic, even if the plans do not scale the same exact size. size. Lettered Let tered dimensions on the drawings should be taken in preference to scaling. Laying Down. To insure accuracy, it is highly advisable to lay down the set of lines full size on the shop floor. This is because a variation of only the thickness of a line on the drawing will make a difference in the full-size boat. Only when it is impossible to obtain a smooth, level floor upon which the lines may be laid down should the frames be made directly from the Table of Offsets. Note that the offsets extend to the outside of the planking and the decking and that the frames fit to the inside of planking and decking; therefore the thickness of planking and decking must be deducted when the frames are made. Keel. White oak, 4 in. thick, built as shown in detail drawing. Note that to save lumber there is a piece of triangular deadwood aft and a similar piece forward. The keel is slotted for the centerboard from a point 7 in. forward of Station 4 to a point 1 in. abaft Station 7. This slot is 1-1/2in. wide. The fastenings for the keel and its parts are 3/8-in. through or drift bolts, as indicated on the drawing. The surfaces of all joints must be well covered with non107
hardening marine glue or white lead before being drawn together. Stem. Stem . White oak, sided 4 in., molded 6 in., arranged as shown and extended far enough above the rail line so it can be finished off with the ornamental curve. Below the clipper stem it is faced off to a width of 3/4 in., but in way of the clipper stem, facing off should be left until that piece is in place. The entire stem is rabbetted for the planking. Clipper Stem. Stem . White oak, preferably a grown knee, 2-1/2 ". thick where it joins the stem and tapered to 1-1/4". thick at the forward upper point and, gradually, to 3/4 in. thick at the forward lower point. Stem Knee. Knee. White oak, sided 3 in. and molded about as shown. You can get slightly more room in the forepeak and use shorter bolts if you curve the upper portion of the stem knee, although it involves more work. Stern Post. White oak, sided 4 in., molded 4 in., and notched for the l-1/4 ". transom. Stopwaters. Half-inch white-pine stop-
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waters are driven where indicated, there being two forward and one just forward of Station 2. Transom. Transom. White oak, 1-1/4 " thick, in as wide boards as possible. If made of marine plywood, it can be 1 in. thick. Note that the notch in the stern post must be the same thickness as the transom. If made of boards, the seams run horizontally and are backed by 7/8x2-in. screw-fastened cleats. The forward face of the transom is finished off with 7/8x2-in. white-oak screw-fastened cleats to form an extra backing for the planking. If a plywood stern is used, the cleats should be flush with the edges of the transom. An alternative method when the transom is made of oak boards is to have the cleats 1-1/4 in. thick and to set them in the thickness of the planking from from the edges of the transom. In this case, the plank ends butt against the transom and great care must be taken to apply plenty of marine glue between the cleats and the transom. [Continued on page 128]
Mechanix Illustrated
Flying ying Dutchm utchman [Continued from page 108] Centerbaard Head Ledges. Ledges. White oak, Mast Step. White oak, 4x4 in., notched 2-1/2x3-1/2 "., with the larger dimensionrunning runnin g over three frames, as shown, and secured to athwartships athwa rtships . At the bottom, bottom, each head ledge ledge those frames with 1/4x8-in., 1/4x8-in., drift bolts. A is notched n otched to a thickne t hickness ss of 1-1/2in. 1-1/2in. so it can be square hole, 3 in. fore and aft by 1-1/4 ", is slipped down into the centerboard slot. Plenty cut in the step to receive the heel of the mast. of marine glue should be applied at this point Bottom Frames. Frames. White oak, 7/8x4 in. One and, when in place, two bolts should pass en- frame is placed on each Station, as provided tirely through the keel and each head ledge. by the Offset Table, and there is one addiBoth head ledges are long enough to extend to tional frame at each Half Station. There is the cabin roof, the forward one helping to sup- also one extra bottom frame at the after side port the roof beam at about Station 7 and the of the after head ledge. Two feet off the cenafter one being beneath a block of white oak terline, each of these frames has a 3/4x2-in. spanning two of the roof beams, as shown. limber hole. This distance cannot be mainGreat care must be taken that these head tained forward of Station 7, where the limber ledges are square with the waterline in both holes will have to be alongside the keel batten directions. and triangular in form, as shown on Sections CenterboardTrunk Logs. Logs. White oak, 2x6 8 and 9. Each bottom frame fastens through in. Along each upper inner edge there is a the keel with a 1/4-in. through bolt. Note that lxl-in. rabbet facing the slot. They are also the bottom frames fall on the after sides of the rabbetted at the ends, around the head ledges, station marks. Side Frames. White oak, 7/8x3"., located to which they are bolted. The distance between the trunk logs is equal to the width on the forward sides of the station marks. of the slot. These logs must through-bolt in These frames should extend quite a distance the rabbet all the way down to the bottom above the main sheer, as the rail frames are of the keel, there being not less than five bolts attached to them. At the chine, the side and in each of the logs. The trunk sides are made bottom frames are notched for the chine and of two layers of 1-in. white oak, the inner are fastened together with three 1/4-in. bolts. layer being screwed into the trunk-log rabbet The rail frames are the same size as the side after plenty of marine glue is applied. Use frames and are on the after sides of the side l-3/4 -in. No. 12 screws, spaced not more than frames, fastening to each with w ith th ree re e 1/4" 3 in. apart. The outer layer is of similar ma- bolts. These frames project an inch or so above terial, but arranged so the seams of the two the rail line and can later be cut. The three layers are staggered. Plenty of glue or white frames at Stations Statio ns 9, 9-1/2, 9-1/2, and 10 have h ave extra ex tra lead must be applied between the layers. The floor timbers, timbe rs, the t he same size as the bottom bott om two layers are fastened together along the frames, extending across the top of the stem seams with 1-3/4-in. No. 9 screws, spaced no knee and fastening with two bolts to each more than 4 in. apart. The trunk sides are side frame. built up to a total height of 34 in. above the Keel Battens. Battens. Between each bottom frame, keel. Great care must be exercised in the con- except in way of the centerboard trunk, there struction of this trunk to make it tight and is a wh whit itee-oa oak k keel ke el batt ba tten en,, 1-1/4x6 in. This Thi s strong. 6-in. measurement is net and even an addiBitts. Bitts. There is a main mooring bitt, 4x4 tional width will do no harm. Each keel batten in., of white oak or locust, located as shown. fastens to the keel with not less than three mortised into the stem knee, and fastened 3-in. galvanized boat nails driven at slight there with not less than two drift bolts. This angles. The joint between batten and keel bitt extends 9 in. above the forward decking must be coated with marine glue or white ' and is fitted with a 1-in. bronze pin approxi- lead. Chine. Chine. There are two chines, an inner and mately 9 in. long. Above deck, the bitt is neatly outer oute r one, both being 1-1/4x2-1/2 " white whit e oak, beveled off. Aft, there are two additional bitts extending from the bottom of the boat up preferably in single lengths. The outer one the face of the transom and for a distance of fits into the frame notches, boxes into the stem 15 in. above the rail line. These are of white and transom cleats, and fastens to each frame oak or locust, 3x3 in., spaced 22 in. apart with at least one 2-in. boat nail. The inner and thoroughly secured to the transom with chine is bent at the intersection of side and 1/4 " bolts. At their top is a 1-in. bronze rod bottom frames and must be beveled off on the bottom to form a good brace for the frame to be used as a traveller. This rod is approximately 30 in. long and is laps. Better than beveling would be to notch pinned to prevent it from shifting from side the underside of the chine across each of the [Continued on page 130] to side. 128 128
Flying ying Dutchman [Continued from page 128] bottom frames. Fasten with one boat nail into shape of the engine bed as it will vary to suit each side and bottom frame. the engine installed. Basically, it is made of Main Clamps. Longleaf yellow pine, l-1/4x 2-in. yellow pine or white oak, notched over 2-1/2",, in single lengths if possible, fastened frames from Stations 2 to 3-1/2, and throughto each side frame with two galvanized boat bolted to them. The bed is installed at an nails and boxed into the transom cleats. It angle to the centerline in such a position that is important that the clamps be located in the shaft line intersects the centerline at Stathe proper position below the sheer line so tion 3 and is approximately 12 in. off the centhe deck beams can rest upon them and the terline and not less than 10 in. below the top top of the decking come exactly on the main of the keel at Station Statio n 1/2. It is highly importa imp ortant nt sheer line. to know what engine is to be installed and Main Deck Beams. 7/8X2-1/2 ", cut to a what the direction of rotation will be. A leftcamber of 19 ft. 6 in. There is one extra deck hand engine turning a righthand propeller' beam as a filler between the bulkhead and should be installed with the propeller on the starbo ard side. A righthand engine turnin tur ning g the regular beam on Station 8. In -way of the starboard a lefthand wheel should be installed at the hatch above the forepeak, the beam on Station 9 is cut as shown and the hatch framed opposite angle. Where the shaft passes through up with fore-and-aft carlings the same size the hull, a 4x4-in. wedge-shaped shaft log as the beams. Deck beams from Stations 3-1/2 is installed and bolted down to the planking to 7 are installed on the forward sides of the over a canvas and white-lead gasket. This side frames, being screwed or bolted to the shaft log carries the stuffing box. The after heads of the side frames. In way of the cabin, end of the shaft is carried on a strut bolted throug h the planking plan king with fillers fillers on the inside, there are short beams extending to a point through said strut to have dimensions to suit the shaft 2 ft. 10 in. from the centerline of the boat and restin res ting g upon u pon l-1/ l-1/4x 4x33-in in.. carlings carl ings firmly size and angle required for the individual attached to the bulkheads at Stations 3 and 8. engine. Cabin Construction. Each cabin side is Cockpit Deck Beams. Same size as main deck beams, but cut to no camber. Bolt to carried on a 2x4-in. oak or yellow-pine sill. the after side of each frame and locate so the These sills are cut off at the bottoms at 8° cockpit decking will be 9 in. above the water- angles from horizontal to impart the proper line or 3 ft. above the base line. In way of rake to the cabin sides and their tops are rabbet ed to take said cabin sides. At the the engine box, a hatch is framed up. It is rabbeted suggested that the engine be installed at about forward and after ends of the cabin are thr ough h this time so the size of the hatch can be made similar sills. The forward one bolts throug to suit the machine installed, making sure to a deck beam and the after one bolts through provide plenty of space for working around a cockpit beam and is framed up around the ar e 1-in 1-in.. oak, the engine and reaching into the storage space engine box. The cabin sides are yellow pine, or mahogany and are screwunder the cockpit deck. It is advisable to place a post on the centerline from each of the cock- fastened into the lxl-in. rabbets in the tops 1-3/4in. No. 10 screws at inin pit beams down to the keel to keep the deck of the sills. Use 1-3/4in. tervals of no more than 4 in. While While marine from sagging. Mast Partners And Fillers. In way of the plywood could be used for these sides, conmast and for the entire distance from it to the siderable difficulty would be encountered it for the windows. The stem there are 2-in. fillers of scrap wood to when rabbeting it provide a firm foundation for the mast wedges height of the sides is taken from the outboard profile. and the bitt. The bottom and sides of each window open1-1/4 in. thick, in the form form of a Breasthook. Breasthook. 1-1/4 ing have 1/4X1/2 in. rabbets in order that a triangle, filling in between the forward ends ing of the clamps and the stem. Should be well conventional jump-and-swing sash can be infastened through the clamps and also to the stalled. On the outside, to protect the opening, there is a 3/8x2-in. batten at top and bottom. stem. Bulkheads. The bulkhead at Station 8 is Each sash frame is lxl-1/2-in. oak or mahogany, constructed of 1-in. marine plywood. In way rabbeted for the double-thick glass, which is of the lavatory, a paneled door leading to the held in place with quarter-round molding. forepeak is installed. While this can be a Each sash is fitted inside with a handle and a securin g it to a roof roof beam. In the hinged door, it will be more convenient if it hook for securing is arranged to remove, being held in place forward end of the cabin are two 6-in. portlights. • with cleats and thumb buttons. (Part II will appear next month). Engine Bed. It is impossible to specify the 130
By Gerald Taylor White Design by West/own Associates S mentioned last month, Flying . Dutchman is patterned after the traditional, time-tested Dutch yachts. She has amazingly comfortable and roomy cruising accommodations for two. This month we are presenting the remainder of the drawings and specifications. Cabin Construction, continued. While marine plywood can be used for the cabin sides, considerable difficulty would be encountered when rabbeting for the windows; so you are advised to use the material previously specified. The 1x2-in. roof beams are cut to a radius of 11 ft. 6 in. and are located as shown in the plans. One of these beams notches into the upper end of the forward headledge. In way of the cabin hatch, the beams are framed up in the manner usual for hatches. Note that the cabin sides extend beyond the bulkhead on Station 3. The cabin door is made of the same material as the bulkhead and is framed up to suit. The hatch is also of the same material, is arranged on low coamings, and is of the double-hinged type—the after portion folds forward; then both halves can be flipped forward onto the cabin roof. All necessary hooks, hinges, and locks are to be provided. The hinges for the hatch and for the engine box must be of the continuous type. The cabin roof is 3/4 " T&G white pine or spruce, with a V-bead on the underside. This roof is covered with 8-oz. canvas that is laid in glue and turned down under the cabinside moldings. The roof beams are supported by 1x2-in. cabin clamps, which are shoved up tightly under the ends of the beams and screw-fastened to the cabin sides.
A
Planking. White cedar, white pine, longleaf yellow pine, cypress, or mahogany, to finish finish 7/8-in.thick. The number of planks p lanks used are shown in the section drawings, 108 108
but it may be necessary to insert stealers at the forward end. These stealers should not run to a feather edge, but should be nibbed into the planks. Where butts are necessary, they are to be backed with %-in. oak blocks reaching from frame to frame. Each block is to be at least 1-1/2". wider than the plank. Butts in adjoining planks are to be at least 3 ft. apart. The planking is secured to the frames with 3-in. boat nails driven at slight angles 4 in. apart. At the stem, stern, chines, and keel battens, use 2-in. No. 12 screws. Bevel the planking so there are 1/16" . caulking openings on the outside and the seams are light-tight on the inside. Decking . All decking is similar in specifications to the planking, but is covered with 10-oz. canvas that is turned up inside the sill and the bulwark ceiling. At the frameheads, the decking extends as close to the frames as possible, watertight joints being made with the bulwark planking, which is 3/4in. thick and extends to a point 1 in. below the rail cap. This must fit very tightly against the deck and must be well fastened to the frames. To further insure watertightness, a shaped quarter-round molding is screw-fastened at the junction of deck and bulwark. All decking is fast
ened with 2-1/2" boat nails. The cockpit deck is the same as the main deck. Between Frames Fram es 1/2 and 1,1.5 and 2, and 2.5 and 3, the deking extends through to the planking. Great Grea t care should be taken here to insur e watertightness. watertigh tness. Scuppers are then cut through the planking so any water can drain overboard. Waterways. Around the upper outer edge of the cabin are ar e 1x1-1/2-in. combined waterways and grab rails, which are screw-fastened through the canvas into the cabin top. Cut scuppers through these waterways at the low spots to provide drainage. Centerboard. White oak, 1-1/4 in. thick, thick , and of the shape shown in the detail. All pieces forming the board are fastened together with 3/8-in. galvanized rod. Lead or iron ballast, about 35 lbs., is added to overcome flotation. The board is hung on a 7/8-in. bronze pin that passes entirely through the keel and is fitted with cotter pins and washers on the outside. A bronze bushing is placed in the centerboard over the pin. A light chain is shackled to the after end of the centerboard and runs through a sheave at the top of the after headledge, then down to a light tackle. After the board is installed, a cap is secured
across the top of the trunk. It has small moldings along the edges to prevent small articles from rolling off. Rudder. White oak, 1-1/4" thick, built up the same as the centerboard, and shaped as shown, with three notches cut in the after edge to act as a boarding ladder. It is hung on heavy gudgeons and pintles, or else on heavy bronze screweyes through which a 3/8-in. rod is run. The tiller is made of a piece of white oak or ash, 2-1/2 in. deep, 1-1/4 in. thick, and apap proximately 4 ft. 4 in. long. It is shaped as shown in the plans. A ball may be carved on the end if desired. The tiller fastens to the rudder through a slot the full thickness of the rudder blade. On each side of the slot there are oak blocks about 16 in. long and 1-1/4 in. thick, nicely tapered towards the bottom, throughbolted above and below the tiller slot, and screw-fastened at the bottom. Extreme care should be taken to make a strong job here as there is considerable strain on the tiller. Moldings. Along the main sheer and the rail line lin e ther t heree ar e 1-1/2in. 1-1/2in . half-r ound oak moldings. These must be very well screwed into the frames and it is important that thick paint or marine glue be applied to 109
the undersides of the moldings before they are fastened fastened.. Additional Additional half half and qu quar ar te rround moldings are used where required to make a neat finish. Rail Cap. The entire bulwark from stem to stern ster n is covered with wi th a white w hite oak or longleaf pine 1x5-in. cap. This rests horizontally on top of the frames and screw-fastens into the edges of the planks and into each frame. In way of any fittings attached to the cap, oak filler blocks, fitted tightly between the frames and fastened thereto, are used. Interior Arrangement, Below decks forward there is a large forepeak. It is reached through a deck hatch and through the panel in the forward bulkhead. A light grating is laid here to keep ropes and sails from getting into the bilge. It is suggested, although not necessary, that a 6-in. deadlight be installed in the hatch. The toilet room is built, as shown, of %-in. marine plywood. A marine watercloset is installed with lead-pipe connections for inlet and outlet. Outboard of the watercloset, shelves for linen and other equipment are installed. Around the inside of the toilet room, coat hooks are installed to suit. In the main cabin, both of the berths are built of %-in. marine plywood and fitted with lockers underneath. The tops of the cushions are 12 in. above the floor. The depths of the berth boxes depend upon the thickness of the cushions and whether or not box springs are used. Shelves are installed out110
board of the berths and a folding table of 3/4-in. plywood is fitted against the centerboard trunk. A small locker for guns and rods is installed against the after bulkhead between the t he companion companion ladder and an d the starboard berth. On the port side, side, a dresser, 11 in. high, is constructed, with lockers under it and dish racks over. The stove rests on this dresser in the position shown and must run athwartships. The sink measures 12x12 in. It drains overboard, the dresser being raised high enough to allow this. The water supply is by means of a 3/8-in. copper tube with gravity flow from the tank forward. The companionway ladder is made of 3/4-in. plywood and fitted with hooks so it can be removed to gain access to the engine and the lazarette. It is suggested from the standpoint of safety that the stove be set in a zinccovered box and that the bulkhead abaft the stove be covered with 1/4-in. asbestos and then covered with zinc. Ventilation. A 3-in. mushroom-type ventilator is installed in the forward deck to keep articles [Continued on page 136]
Mechanix Ill Illustra ustrat ted
BILL OF MATERIALS (Approximate Quantities Required)
111 111
Flying ying Dutchm utchman [Continued from page 110] thi mbles, two in the th e forepeak from from remaining remaini ng damp. VenVe n- cheek leads for the lazyjack; two thimbles, tilation to the engine can be provided with eyebolts on the boom, and two eyebolts on the two mushroom-type vents or a number of mast for the lazyjack; one boom jaw with band; six mast tangs; one masthead compresholes in engine box. Tanks. There are two cylindrical gal- sion band with four eyes; four chain plates; vanized tanks fitted on the forward deck in one bobstay plate; one compression band with fourr eyes for for the bowsprit; seven seven turnbuck tu rnbuck les; heavy oak chocks. Each tank tan k should have fou one V-type stru t for f or the jumper stays; and one at least one swash plate and a filling cap with a small vent in the top. The tanks are held mast slide with the necessary fittings. Standing Rigging. All 1/4-in. flexible plow in place with heavy galvanized straps lined with belt lining and drawn down either with steel, eye-spliced and attached to fittings with turnbuckles turnb uckles or with lag screws. Where the shackles or patented attachments. There are outlet pipes pass through the deck, the open- four shrouds, a forestay, a jibstay, and two ings should be tight. tight . After passing through thro ugh jumper stays. Running Rigging. Halliards, 1/2-in.-dia. the deck, the pipes go outboard to the sides of the boat jus t inside the frames; th en down and manila; jib sheets, 3/8-in.-dia. manila; main manila ; lazyjacks, 3/8".-dia. aft under the cabin floor. A shut-off valve sheet, 3/4".-dia. manila; must be arranged under the deck for each manila. All to be properly spliced and sized. Block List. All of the blocks are to be of a tank. The starboard tank is for fuel and the size size to take the th e running run ning rigging without chance chance port tank for water. 7/8-in . waterproof of binding if the rope swells. One single block Deck Box . A deck box of 7/8-in. plywood is installed alongside the engine for the jib halliard; one single block and one hatch. It is used as a seat and as a receptacle recept acle single block with becket for the main halliard; two single blocks, one double block with for small articles. Icebox. Similar to the deck box, except traveller ring, and one eyebolt for the main that it consists of an inner and an outer box sheet. Sails. Eight-oz. sailcloth of a quality to be with at least 1 in. of ground-cork or glasswool insulation insulat ion between the two boxes. The approved by the owner. The jib is to be fitted with hanks for the stay. The mainsail is to drain for melted ice runs onto the deck. Boom Crotch. A scissors-type boom crotch, have slide fittings along the mast, lacing eyes of 1-1/4x4 " white oak, is built buil t as shown in the along the boom, a headboard at the peak, and reef points: points : one 2 ft. ft. above the detail and arranged to hook to the insides of two sets of reef foot and another 3 ft. 6 in. above the foot. the traveller bitts at cockpit level and to extend far enough above deck to carry the boom To extend the roach, batten pockets are to be installed at 4-ft. intervals. Both sails are when the sails are furled. Bowsprit. White oak or longleaf pine, 8 ft. to be supplied with sail covers and strops. Sail Dimensions. Jib: Luff, 19 ft. 2 in. long and made from from a 4x4-in. piece of material materia l Foot, 9 ft. 6 in. tapered down to 3 in. at the outboard end. It Leech, 15 ft. 10 in. passes through an opening in the bulwark on Mainsail: Hoist, 28 ft. the starboard side of the stem, to which it is 3in. through-bolted. Abaft the stem it is rectanguFoot, 17 ft. lar in section; forward of the stem it is gra du7 in. ally rounded off. It bolts down through Leech, 32 ft, the deck fillers and through the bitt. exclusive of Mast and Boom. To be of selected spruce • roach and made as per the details. The mast is round Roach, 16 in. in section with a maximum diameter of Ballast. Like all centerboard boats, this 5-1/2 in. The boom is rectangular in section, craft will require trimming ballast, the exact made of a piece of 2-1/4-in. materia mate rial. l. It is left straight on top, slightly rounded on the bot- amount depending upon the equipment intom, and tapered towards the ends as stalled. So locate it to bring her to her designed waterline. All of this ballast is inside. shown. Deck Fittings. One pair pai r 6-in. bow chocks forfor - In a boat of this character, ordinary building ward; one 8-in 8-in.. main-sheet main -sheet cleat cleat on the trave l- brick provides an excellent ballast. It is cheap ler aft; two 6-in. jib cleats bolted through and easy to install. The cabin flooring should blocks on top of the cabin; two swivel-type jib be arranged with frequent hatches so the leads, also bolted through blocks on the cabin ballast can be installed or moved. When the roof; two 8-in. halliard cleats, one on each boat is to be hauled out for any length of [Continued on page 138] side of the mast; two 5-in. lazyjack cleats; two
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Mechanix Illustrated
Flyingying-Dutchm utchman [Continued from page 136] time, it is advisable to remove the ballast. Painting. All painting to be of a color to suit the owner. There should not be less than three coats of either paint or varnish on the outside of the boat, no less than two coats on the inside. A suggested painting scheme is red antifouling paint for the bottom and the boottop, black from there to the main sheer, dark red between the sheer and the rail, white cabin, white spars, and buff decks. Anchors and Lines . Depending on whether the boat is to be kept in an exposed location or not, there should be at least two yachtsman's man 's anchors: a 50-lb. one and a 25-lb. one, one, or the equivalent in patented anchors. There should be not less than 75 feet of 1-in. line for the heavy anchor, the same amount of 3/4-in. line for for the light anchor, and at, least 50 feet of 3/4-in. line for warps. Well, Mates, that's the story. Our last word of warning. If you've carefully read the foregoing, you can readily understand that anyone who builds a small boat must be a jackof-all-trades. He must do countless jobs of carpentry, attend to the plumbing, install the wiring, fit the engine, cut and splice rigging, and paint and varnish the finished job. All of this requires careful planning, especially if you are an amateu ama teur: r: so don don your thinking cap and make haste slowly! slowly! •
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Mechanix Ill Illustra ust rat ted
