JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012
At Odell Brewing, play isn’t a distraction from work. It’s an important part of everything we do and lets us try new things. That’s why we started UnBottled — a movement that celebrates it. Join us by grabbing a few friends and some tasty brews and find your own secret ingredient.
Show us your game on facebook.com/OdellBrewingCo
CONTENTS 66 THIS YEAR’S TOP 100 BEER BARS
FEATURES
IN EVERY ISSUE
10 RIGHT ON THE NOSE
28
Take a sniff of five wintry flavors, then find them in your beer.
A new generation of beer series spawned from science and nature.
14 IPAS 13 WAYS
38 WHERE TO DRINK NEXT
Bitter, smooth, traditional, avantgarde—and everything in between.
The seriously booming beer scenes St. Louis, Oklahoma City and Traverse City.
18 A HISTORY OF CANNING
62 IT TAKES A VILLAGE
Follow the can from Napoleon’s request to Coors’ color-changers.
Hops and craft beers bloom in Argentina’s El Bolsón.
ALCOHOL BY VOLUMES
9 ON TAP
79 DRAFT PICK
Sixer: Smoke beers Pubs We Love: Bowling bars Brewery Spotlight: Lavery Brewing
Funkwerks Tropic King
32 TREK 10 Places to Drink a Beer Beertown: Indianapolis
48 TASTE Pairs: Beer & Wings Á la Beer: Pancakes The Morning After: Silver Lake
80 REVIEWS Wood-aged beers, imperial IPAs, strong Scotch ales, wheat wines, smoked porters, American ambers, black IPAs
92 CALENDAR 94 STYLE 96 BEER ME
Beer Revolution, p. 67
E I B O R N I V E K
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
MAGAZINE
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Erika Ann Rietz MANAGING EDITOR Jessica Daynor BEER EDITOR Christopher Staten COPYEDITOR Scott Verbout
Wat cs lovs you lbaton? Wat lbaton lovs you cs? Ts a t ag-ol qustons auntng
DESIGN DIRECTOR Kevin M. Robie ASSOCIATE DESIGNER John Walters CONTRIBUTORS Morgan Chidsey, Tim Cigelske, Noah Davis, Amy Lynch, Carolyn Malcoun, Ted McGrath, Tien Nguyen, Alexandra Pecci, Laraine Perri, Mike Riccetti, Ellen Ross, Joe Stange, Nate Storey, Ruth Tobias, Miles Van Dusen
umankn snc t awn of atng an nkng. Qustons tat can finally b answ wt t guanc of “Cs Cu .” No long wll you quston f mlot lays nc wt Ca. O f cabnt as omantc nclnatons towa Asago. Ys, lov s n t a. Can you fl t? O sall w say, tast t?
PRESIDENT & C.O.O. Trevor Cravens PUBLISHER Evan M. Hughes V.P. SALES Mark Nugent V.P. SALES: IMPORTS Erik Laudenschlager SALES EXECUTIVE Bryce McDonald WEB DIRECTOR Jonathan Surratt CIRCULATION MANAGER Lori Day ADMINISTRATION Aimee Mowbray SUBSCRIPTIONS AND BILLING 888.806.4677, ext. 1,
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CsCu.com U N I T I N G
W iNe, B eer, ANd S piriTS W iTh W iSCONSiN C heeSe.
draftmag.com DRAFT Magazine (PP79) is published bimonthly by Draft Publishing, LLC, P.O Box 15769, Phoenix, Arizona, 85060; Phone, 888.806.4677; Fax, 602.391.2677. January/February 2012, Volume 7, Issue 1. Periodical postage paid at Phoenix, Ariz. and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Draft Publi shing, P.O. Box 15769, Phoenix, AZ 85060. Contents copyright © 2012 Draft Publishing, LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced i n any form or by any electronic or mechanical means without prior written permission from the publi sher. All items submitted to DRAFT Magazine become the sole property of Draft Publishing. Opinions expressed in DRAFT Magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. DRAFT does not assume responsibility for claims by its advertisers or contribu tors.
© 2012 Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board, Inc.
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
chewlicious
adjective: when food is so delicious that it is savored for as long as po ssible before being swallowed. The last bite of Wiscons in Gouda always proves to be the most chewlicious.
. c n I , d r a o B g n i t e k r a M k l i M n i s n o c s i W 2 1 0 2 ©
Wisconsin Cheese
Outdo Ordinary ™
eatwisconsincheese.com
EDITOR SPICKS
O
n an overcast Sunday afternoon in New Orleans, I wandered into Avenue Pub and sat at the bar next to a couple of scruffy-faced guys, slowly sipping 11.11.11 Stone Anniversary brew (it was 11/12/11). They eyed me for a few minutes while I settled in, before one leaned over, halfsmiled and asked, “And where are you from?” There’s something almost precarious about stopping by beloved local beer bars, inadvertently stepping on the turf of guys whose names are practically tattooed on the barstools. But a bit of amicable deference can go a long way, and (as happened that day at Avenue Pub) you’ll quickly find yourself getting an unequaled insider’s guide to a city’s beer scene. In traveling across the country searching for the best beer bars in America (p. 66), we had quite a bit of spontaneous help from friendly locals and bartenders, eager to chat about the bars and beers they love. And this is part of what makes a good beer bar great. Sure, there are objective criteria: A commitment to craft beer shown through a thoughtful selection, a knowledgeable staff and educational components like pint nights and food pairings. But then there’s the X factor.Whether it’s an upscale urbanite hot spot or a grungy corner dive, the best beer bars are the kind of places that draw the people you’d want to chat about beer with, that want to chat about beer with you; somehow, you all end up in a row, sipping on pints and swapping thoughts about them. Along the way, we found more than just beer bars: We explored three new towns worth having a pint in (p. 38), tasted 13 different versions of IPAs (p. 14), and, to recover from it all, perfected the Bloody Mary (p. 22). Wherever you’re a regular, whether it’s on our list or not, we hope youtell us about it. And in the spirit of the New Year, we also hope 2012 finds you in a few new favorite barstools. Cheers, Erika A. Rietz
HONORABLE MENTIONS Paring down our annual Top 100 Beer Bars list gets tougher every year; our editors share their favorite spots that didn’t quite make the cut. “The South has seriously stepped up its beer-bar game: Aromas in Athens, Ga., has taps from The Bruery and Stillwater, plus a nice bottle list. And The Beer Trappe in Lexington, Ky., is really more of a beer store, but it has killer bottle offerings you can only sip there.” –Jessica Daynor, managing editor “Every beertown needs a sports-friendly bar like the Concordia Alehouse in Portland, Ore. Tipping back a hoppy pint of Laurelwood Free Range Red while watching a weekend’s worth of football is absolute bliss.” –Christopher Staten, beer editor “I love the way things are going in Dallas beer-wise. The Libertine is a classic, excellent beer bar. One of my new favorite stops is the year-old Anvil Pub; it’s a place to keep an eye on. The building was reportedly quite a ‘sketchy establishment’ before the new owner gutted it and turned it into this cool, industrial space with an urban vibe and an awesome beer list.” –Erika Rietz, Editor-in-chief
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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
LETTERS
TOP BEERS OF THE YEAR
Good to see my local Crooked Stave getting some love on your Top 25 Beers of the Year list (November/December, 2011). The things Chad Yakobson is doing with Brett are unreal. –D. Wolski, Ft. Collins, Co.
new packaging shields the beer from light, and lets the beer’s stellar toastiness and nut accents shine through. We maintain the classic brown ale’s an of-the-moment testament to how the right vessel can make a beer sing.
grandfather used to make a nearly identical recipe, but it was lost over the years. He made his with a Trappist ale and probably double the liquor, but this one could be our new holiday tradition. –Aaron Hernandez, Philadelphia
STAYING SAFE
I have only had the privilege of trying four beers from your Top 25 Beers of the Year list, one of them being Brooklyn Concoction. I didn’t care for it. But I also didn’t know it was based on a cocktail; I’d like to try to find it again and give it another taste. And I hope to make it through at least half of your list. Next up, White Birch Tavern Ale! –Si Goldstein, New York City Your Be ers of the Year list look s great, but Newcastle? Really? There are so many better beers out there. –Chris Locke, Joliet, Ill.
As a longtime craft beer enthusiast and avid road cyclist, I dove into your article, “Mountain Men” (September/October 2011), with great expectations. My excitment, however, quickly turned to indignation as I discovered the ill-advised nature of their trip. Really? Four pints of IPA before a day of riding the Blue Ridge Parkway? I wonder if your three “adventurers” realize that they were legally drunk in most states? After logging well over 10,000 miles in the saddle, I know how fast things can happen on the road when I’m totally sober. Please print articles that showcase the responsible side of beer drinking. –Craig Sutherland
Editor’s note: In that list, we explain that the new canned version of Newcastle Brown Ale RIGHT-ON RECIPES sent the stalwart beer to new heights, far Thanks for printing your beernog recipe (“Use above the beer in those old clear bottles; the Your Noggin,” November/December 2011). My
™
Your smok ed go uda so up (“So up’s O n! ,” November/December 2011) might be the best beer soup I’ve ever made—and also one of the easiest. Definitely a new regular in our house! –Misty Burke, San Antonio, Texas NEW BEER IN THE OLD SOUTH
Thanks for your story on beer in Atlanta (“Beertown: Atlanta,” November/December 2011), and for pointing out Wrecking Bar. I’ve been to The Porter and Brick Store several times, but Wrecking Bar was simply awesome. My wife and I will definitely be back. –Mason Preta, Hoboken, N.J. Questions? Comments? Send your thoughts to
[email protected] and include your full name, city and state. Letters may be edited for space and clarity.
ONTAP 12
SPOTLIGHT: LAVERY
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14
IPAS 13 WAYS
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20
A SMOKY SIXER
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22
BEERY BLOODY MARYS
26
CHOCOLATE!
Our favorite truffles & chocolaty beers
E I B O R N I V E K
DRAFT JANUARY . FEBRUARY 2012
9
ONT ON TAP
RIGHT ON THE NOSE At your next beer tasting, hold off on sipping and sniff instead: Novices and pros alike can refine their tasting vocab by smelling beers alongside their corresponding scents. MAPLE
VANILLA
Smooth, sweet vanilla creeps through Breckenridge’s Vanilla Porter; smelling real beans makes their scent stand out against the beer’s natural nut and chocolate notes.
COCONUT
Maui hand-toasts the coconut in its CoCoNut Porter; toast a bit of shredded coconut in a warm pan to get an identical smell.
Life and Limb, a Dogfish Head/Sierra Nevada collaboration, is brewed with birch syrup, too, but its maple syrup weaves through wafts of booze to shine in the aroma.
CHOCOLATE
The best-selling Young’s Double Chocolate Stout oozes sinful sweetness. Smell a rich milk chocolate; bitter dark chocolates won’t connect with this brew.
CLOVE
21st Amendment loads its seasonal Fireside Chat with a spice rack full of ingredients, but the dose of Madagascar cloves is easy to spot among the allspice, orange peel, white peppercorn and the rest.
SNIFFING TIP:
Letting beer warm heightens its aroma; don’t open brews straight from the fridge.
ADVANCED PAIRING Test newly nuanced noses with Ommegang Adoration. Its multifaceted smell begins with zesty coriander, orange peel and grains of paradise, but dig deeper to find darker cardamom and mace.
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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
seldom
never duplicated
seen
REMARKABLE • PARTAKABLE
BreckBrew.com
Follow us
ONT ON TAP
SPRING: Liopard Oir “This is our spring seasonal fermented with French saison yeast and bottled with Brettanomyces. We wanted to brew a beer the way a farmer would have hundreds of years ago. You get a little tartness and must, and some great fruitiness with bracing bitterness and Brett flavor.” b
SUMMER: Imperial French Ale “It’s 11.5%-ABV, and hopped with the four American ‘C’ hops: Columbus, Chinook, Centennial and Cascade. It’s also fermented with French saison yeast, so it’s kind of a blend of a double IPA and French IPA.” b
b AUTUMN: Stingy Jack Pumpkin Ale “We wanted to make it a beer, first and foremost. It’s about 7.5% ABV and fermented dry with a restrained spice profile of classic cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg and clove. It’s a simple malt bill and has a restrained hoppiness. We put a decent amount of pumpkin in the mash, which adds a slight nuttiness.”
EARLY EARL Y WINTER: Belfast Black “This smoked porter inspired the whole brewery. It’s malty, and has a lot of Scottish chocolate malts for a nice chocolate and coffee f lavor. We use Northern Brewer hops for their woodsy, minty flavors. The German smoked malts give a restrained smoked flavor that goes really well with the dark chocolaty malts; some people think it tastes like bacon.” b
BREWERY SPOTLIGHT
LAVERY BREWING, ERIE, PA. Co-owner and brewmaster Jason Lavery gives us a snapshot of his ephemeral beers: Be warned, they’re only here for the season, and next year ye ar,, they might not be the same.
C
onventional wisdom suggests a new business—whether brewery, bakery or biotech company—should settle on a flagship product, then promote the hell out of it. Jason Lavery, who co-owns Lavery Brewing with his wife, Nicole, disagrees. “People told us we had to stick to one style, but would a painter stick to one color?” From the wintry Belfast Black, a rich, malty ale with hints of bacony smoke, to Liopard Oir, a French-style saison available from April through
August, Augus t, the the flav flavor orss of Lave Lavery’ ry’ss seven seven se seaso asonal nal bee beers rs mark the time of year—and for him, they keep the days from rolling into one another: “If you brew the same brews over and over, you get bored,” he says. This year he’ll augment his seasonals with remixed sour versions. That Belfast Black? “We’ll omit the smoked malt and age it in our barrels with the dregs from some of our favorite sour beers,” he notes. And then, with perfect timing, he jokes, “We’ll see how many good beers I can ruin.” laverybrewing.com
b LATE WINTER: Devil Bird “This winter seasonal changes every year. This year, it’s an imperial porter aged in fresh bourbon barrels. Maybe next year we’ll do a golden barleywine with just pale malt and New Zealand hops. Maybe we’ll age it in neutral oak barrels and pitch it with Brett.”
Jason Lavery’s father planted a half-acre of hops on the family farm, including Cascade, Centennial and Willamette varieties, which Lavery hopes to incorporate into his beers one day: “It’s a romantic idea to use hops from my Dad’s land,” says Lavery L avery..
BOOK NOW NOW:: Nestled in rural Missouri, Crown Country is an agri-tourist’s dream. Stay at one of seven onsite onsite B&Bs, and visit the Crown Valley wine wi nery ry,, di dist stil ille lery ry an and d br brew ewer ery; y; fr frui uitt tr tree ee fa farm rm an and d greenhouse gardens; black angus cattle and bison operations and tiger tiger sanctuary sanctuary. crowncountry.com 12
E I B O R N I V E K
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
Enjoy the Return of
BJ’s ABBEY NORMAL
®
Our Handcrafted Abbey-style Ale This historic beer style is traditionally brewed by Trappist Monks in Belgium. BJ’s Abbey Normal® is a full-bodied, light brown ale with a sweet and malty flavor profile. The unique bouquet of fruit and spice comes from fermentation with an authentic Trappist yeast . BJ’s Abbey Normal® may not be brewed in an abbey, but it sure tastes like it!
Available for a limited time in February and March
Enjoy BJ’s Award-Winning Handcrafted Beers All Year Long:
BJ’s LIGHTSWITCH ® LAGER
BJ’s BREWHOUSE BLONDE ®
HARVEST HEFEWEIZEN®
PIRANHA ® PALE ALE
BJ’s JEREMIAH RED®
NUTTY BREWNETTE®
BJ’s P.M. PORTER ®
TATONKA ® STOUT
Light Beer
German-Style Kolsch
Bavarian-Style Hefeweizen
American Pale Ale
Irish-Style Ale
American Brown Ale
Robust Porter
Imperial Stout
HANDCRAFTED SODAS
|
LOCAL AND IMPORTED CRAFT BEERS ON TAP
|
QUARTERLY BEER DINNERS
|
www.bjsrestaurants.com
BOTTLE-CONDITIONED BELGIAN ALES facebook.com/bjsbeers
ONTAP
BITTER BLACK IPA:
IMPERIAL IPA:
A perpetual loud-mouth, this near-barleywine style spews a mélange of hop flavors, then obliterates the tongue with bitterness.
WET HOP IPA:
Hop porn in a bottle: Using freshly picked, “wet” hops preserves essential oils.
A dose of roasted malt sharpens the bitter bite of these dark, brooding beers.
BRETTANOMYCES IPA: As extreme as
SESSION IPA:
This en vogue , low-ABV style lacks in malt, so its hop flavors stand out.
SPICE/HERB/ VEGETABLE IPA:
Jasmine? Why not? This green thumb IPA’s brewed with garden ingredients.
they come (so far), these beers blend the barnyard funk of Brettanomyces yeast with citrusy and piney hop profiles.
AMERICAN IPA:
Brasher than its English cousin, its aggressive bitterness and citrusy, piney hops redefined the style.
L A N O I T I D A R T
WHITE IPA:
SINGLE HOP IPA:
This solo act showcases just one hop variety for hop connoisseurs.
IPAS 13 WAYS
A Belgian witbier on hop steroids, this new style merges coriander and orange zest with piney, citrusy American hops.
A V A N T G A R D E
BELGIAN IPA: WOOD-AGED IPA:
Discover which IPA variety best suits you.
A wood barrel’s vanilla smoothes an IPA’s rough edges.
Fruity, spicy Belgian yeast refines the brazenness of the style.
ENGLISH IPA:
The OG IPA: Its moderate bitterness and earthy, fruity hops were revolutionary—in the 1800s.
RED IPA:
A fruity, toffeeladen malt cushion softens an IPA's hop edge; think hoppy Irish red ale.
SMOOTH
How do you turn a stout Belgian? With Belgian yeast, of course. Belgium’s iconic Brasserie DuPont injects its house yeast strain into a roasty, coffee-laden version of the English style, lending DuPont’s signature thirst-quenching quality to Monk’s Stout’s charred finish. Drink Monk’s Stout along with our beer editor at draftmag.com /video
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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
S R E T L A W N H O J
ONTAP
Sweet Cans! EXPERTS APPRAISE YOUR OLD BEER CANS
Beer: Carling Black Label Analysis: Like so many pre-
WHAT’S IN A NAME?
BLACK HUSKY BREWING
A
t its peak, the Eichinger family in rural northeast Wisconsin was more than 20 strong. There was Tim and Toni, their son Jake, and a slew of colorful characters: Lothar, the bitterest of the brood; Creek, the family’s hard-nosed staff sergeant; Doris, the sweetheart; and Howler, the cool-headed womanizer. These other family members were of the four-legged variety: The Eichingers once owned a sled dog kennel in Pembine, Wis., which is now more of a retirement home for huskies in their twilight. But these old dogs still inspire Tim when he rolls up his sleeves in the brewery adjacent to the kennel. The brewery itself is named for Howler, the philandering black husky who Tim says “owned him,”and each beer is a representation of one of the Eichingers’ litter. Take Lothar, the acerbic dog prone to biting, who is naturally the face of Black Husky’s Sproose Joose II IPA, a bitter, high-alpha beer made with local spruce tips. The kennel has slowed recently, but the nanobrewery is ramping up: This year, the Eichingers will quadruple their capacity with a 5-barrel system, expand their line of 22-ounce bottled beers and release a smoked beer and an imperial red—inspired by dogs Smoki and Harold, respectively. –Christopher Staten
16 9
Prohibition breweries, the Carling Brewery has a tumultuous history. Originated in Ontario, Canada, in the mid-1800s, the brewery weathered both the Noble Experiment and World War II. Black Label lager, released after Prohibition, mirrors the ups and downs of the brewery itself: The beer was discontinued during World War II, only to be reintroduced in the 1950s to high acclaim, according to Robert Fondren, vice president of the Brewery Collectibles Club of America. At its peak during the early ’60s, Black Label was available in every state and nearly 50 countries; a decade later, sales sharply declined, but the brand still survives today. Since the sale of Carling in 1979, the beer has been produced by Heilman, Stroh, Pabst and now MillerCoors. The can pictured is from the brand’s heyday, between the ’50s and ’60s. Estimated value:
$20 in mint condition
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
E I B O R N I V E K
ONTAP
GREAT MOMENTS IN CANNING Craft brewers are realizing the benefits of canning their wares (cheaper to ship, no chance of lightstrike) and jumping on the aluminum bandwagon. Here’s a rundown of how the humble can got to where it is today.
1933
1795 The stage is set for the first can when Napoleon offers a 12,000-franc reward for a way to preserve food for his military. Thank the little guy the next time you pop open a cold one.
The American Can Co. submits a patent for its new process of lining cans with tarlike “brewers pitch.” Within a year, the substance is replaced by enamel, and the beer-ready “keglined” can is born.
1999 1962 The lowly can becomes high art with Andy Warhol’s Campbell’s Soup Cans.
1969
1818 British inventor and merchant Peter Durand patents the tin can. He brings his idea overseas, and Americans finally get their hands on some cans.
1937 America’s favorite block of canned meat, SPAM, debuts. The first SPAM joke is created shortly thereafter.
1856
1935
Gail Borden receives a patent for the first canned liquid: condensed milk.
Krueger Brewing sells the nation’s first canned brews: Krueger’s Cream Ale and Krueger’s Finest Beer. It’s the greatest thing since sliced bread— which was only seven years old at the time.
1810 Napoleon’s challenge is met by “the father of canning,” Nicolas Appert. The Frenchman’s simple glass sterilization process quickly spreads, setting the stage for tin canners yet to come.
The times, they are a-changin’: canned beer outsells bottled beer for the first time. The war between glass and aluminum gets serious.
Aluminum gets a new twist when Big Sky Brewing bottles its popular Moose Drool brown ale in the United States’ first aluminum bottle.
2011
2002 Colorado’s Oskar Blues becomes the first American craft brewer to can its beers exclusively.
In September, Great Crescent Brewery canned its Bourbon’s Barrel Stout; one month later, Tallgrass Brewing released the first canned tripel, Velvet Rooster, challenging the stigma of the packaging and the preconceptions of beer connoisseurs everywhere.
TODAY The canning craze continues. First out: aluminum-clad Sierra Nevada launches in California.
1963
1941 Troops fighting in WWII rely heavily on canned rations. Back home, Americans do their patriotic duty and take their cans to be melted down and used in the war effort.
Ermal Fraze replaces the cumbersome pull-tab by creating the pop-top that still graces cans to this day. The reign of the can opener is destroyed in one fell swoop.
1985
2009
Coca-Cola becomes the first canned beverage to be consumed in outer space aboard the Challenger space shuttle.
The world’s largest celebration of canned beer, appropriately named CANFEST, debuts. Coors Light introduces color-changing mountains on Cold Activated cans; you know you’re good to go when the Rockies change from white to blue. And Craftcans.com launches to track the rising popularity of canned beer; more than 400 canned brews are currently available for can fans to tick.
2000 Tempra Technology creates a selfchilling can that drops its own temperature 30 degrees in three minutes. Twelve years later and we’re still waiting.
b In what is certainly the world’s biggest ode to the beer can,
John Milkovisch, a retired upholsterer for the Southern Pacific Railroad, began covering his Houston home with beer cans in 1968. Over the years, he added curtains, fencing and artwork made from cans, too, and the completed Beer Can House is estimated to contain more than 50,000 empties. Milkovisch died in 1988, but the house lives on as a tribute to recycling, and is open for tours. beercanhouse.org 18
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
ONTAP
DRAFT SIXER
SMOKE BEERS
To smoke their malt, brewers draw on a variety of woods and earthy ingredients that lend intriguing nuances to the beer’s flavor.
YOUR CELLAR
BRING THIS OUT: PELICAN THE PERFECT STORM 2008
RAecht
Schlenkerla Rauchbier Märzen Originated in Bamberg, Germany, the classic rauchbier is famous for its beechwoodsmoked malts that weave a smoky, baconlike flavor through the crisp, malty beer.
RRanger Creek
Mesquite Smoked Porter Mesquite is a powerful wood, and needs a robust beer to support its aggressive flavor. Here, the wood imparts rich, roasted smoke with chipotlelike flavors.
RAlaskan
Smoked Porter Often credited with starting the smoked malt craze Stateside, Alaskan’s porter uses local alder (a deciduous tree that’s popular for smoking salmon) to develop a sweet, deep smoke flavor.
RStone
Smoked Porter Peat may be the most famous smoking element in the beverage world thanks to the centuries-old distilling traditions in Ireland and Scotland. Here, it imbues Stone’s porter with rich, toasted earthiness and a slight twang.
RNew Holland
Charkoota Rye Smoked Doppelbock Cherrywood produces a bold smoke accented by subtle, sweet fruity notes— a thoughtful pairing for this malt-forward beer’s dark fruit flavors.
Smoke at home Add the right wood to your smoker box for full-flavored meat. Pork: From roast to chops, pig pairs perfectly with smoked beechwood’s baconlike flavor. Brisket: The smooth, clean smoke of oak perfectly accentuates the beef’s charred edges. Salmon: Stay true to alder’s most popular use and smoke it alongside a fresh salmon steak. Ribs: Take a tip from Texas pit masters and slow-cook beef ribs with hickory smoke. Chicken: Cherrywood’s subtle fruit notes work best with tame poultry.
20
RBlind Bat
Vlad the Inhaler This smoked wheat ale, a style native to Poland, gets its clean campfire notes from oak.
The Perfect Storm was renamed Mother of All Storms in 2010, and the name’s not the only thing that’s changed about this b ourbon-barrel-aged, English-style barleywine: After three years in our cellar, the once hot brew turned luscious. A slight booziness tickles the nose as sweet caramel and cherry scents pair with refined tobacco and almonds. A slick, sherrylike mouthfeel c arries elegant aged notes across the tongue; a sweet caramel base pulls dark cherries, vanilla, tobacco and pepper together. Despite this beer’s age, alcohol still snakes through its cohesive ensemble of scents and flavors, and while it could rest for another year or two, The Perfect Storm’s swell seems to be at its peak.
LAY THIS DOWN: WIDMER BARREL AGED BRRRBON ’11 This bourbon-barrel-aged version of Brrr Seasonal Ale (a hopped-up amber) is like a race through the mouth among four contestants: citrusy hops, bready malts, woody tannins and spicy, hot bourbon. Tasted fresh, it’s a palate pleaser, but after a year in the cellar its threads will fuse into a rich profile. The bright orange hop notes will fade, but Brrrbon will emerge with more developed barrel notes: Likely, coconut and vanilla will accent pronounced caramel sweetness, while the bourbon’s heat will bow to a pleasant peppery spice. Put one away this winter, and you’ll have a stunning barrel-aged beer waiting next year. JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
S R E T L A W N H O J , T H G I R ; E I B O R N I V E K : T F E L P O T
Over 2,500 Different Beers from More Than 250 Breweries. SM
Total Wine & More. The Selection is Ridiculous .
Over 75 superstores throughout Arizona, California, Delaware, Florida, Georgia, Nevada, New Jersey, North Carolina, South Carolina and Virginia.
www.totalwine.com
Build Your Own Six Pack!
Cold Kegs Always Available!
Not all beers shown are av ailable in all markets. Visit your nearest store for their complete selection. *Spirits not available in all markets.
ONTAP
c
LONGMAN & EAGLE BLOODY MARY MIX
Serves 10
16 ounces McAuslin St. Ambroise oatmeal stout 11 ounces tomato juice 1 can V8 3 tablespoons pickle juice 3 tablespoons horseradish 3 tablespoons Old Bay seasoning 1 1 / 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 11 / 2 tablespoons Frank’s hot sauce 2 teaspoons minced onion 2 teaspoons grated fresh garlic juice and zest of 1 / 2 lemon pinch kosher salt dash Sriracha chili sauce
Combine all ingredients, in order, in a large pitcher. Pour into ice-filled pint glasses, filling them ¾ of the way, and top with 2 ounces of vodka, white whiskey or blanco tequila.
EYEOPENER!
BLOODY BRILLIANT Vodka and a celery stalk? Not in this Bloody Mary. You can do the ubiquitous breakfast cocktail a zillion ways, but the best we’ve seen comes from Chicago bar and inn Longman & Eagle, whose zingy, briny version gets its smoothness from a secret ingredient: oatmeal stout. We suggest serving it with the biggest skewer you can handle and, like the bar does, a sidecar of Old Style.
File this bottle under unexpectedly delightful: Short’s Bloody Beer is everything you love about a Bloody Mary— Roma tomatoes, horseradish, black peppercorns and more—in a beer that’s decidedly sweet and surprisingly drinkable.
3 MIX-AND-BEER COMBOS YOU’LL LOVE Q Fat & Juicy + Upslope Top Rope A Mexican-style craft lager gives a carbonated lift to a well-balanced mix.
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Q McClure’s + Uncommon Siamese Twin Ale The famous pickle maker’s briny blend clings to this dubbel’s lime, coriander and lemongrass.
Q Demitri’s Chilies & Peppers + Ft. Collins Z Lager Add tomato juice, and the mix’s megaspice and beer’s smoky notes read like a Southwestern burger. JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
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PUBS WE LOVE: BOWLING BARS Line ’em up and put ’em down—the pins, that is— at these Midwestern beer bars with bowling lanes.
WHERE ST. LOUIS
MINNEAPOLIS
Southport Lanes
CHICAGO
Pin-Up Bowl
Bryant Lake Bowl
3325 N. Southport Ave., sparetimechicago.com
6191 Delmar Blvd. pinupbowl.com
810 W. Lake St. bryantlakebowl.com
DETAILS
Chicago’s fun-loving Lakeview crowd hits this corner bar for its four bowling lanes and 32 craft taps.
This St. Louis bowling institution boasts about its creative cocktails, but the real treat is the small but wonderful beer menu that pairs disturbingly well with the cherry and blueberry Pop Tarts on offer.
A bowling alley that celebrates Surly Darkness Day and scores rare kegs of Alaskan Smoked Porter? We’re in.
DRINK
The handles read like a who’s-who of Chicago brewing: Half Acre, Revolution, Metropolitan, Goose Island— they’re all here. Opt for a pint of 5 Rabbit Golden Ale.
Local gem Schlafly rules the handful of taps; the bottle list, though, is full of surprises like Mikkeller Green Gold and TOØL Black Ball Porter.
The taps are always changing; right now, the here today, gone tomorrow winter seasonals (think hard-to-come-by kegs like Alaskan Smoked Porter and Great Lakes Nosferatu) are your best bet.
BOWL
Here, the bowling pins are still set the old-fashioned way: by hand.Weeknights, lanes go for just $15 per hour, and shoes are always $3.
Rent one of eight lanes by the hour, or play by the game: On weekends, a round of ten-pin runs you $4.50.
Bring your sweetie on Mondays, aka Cheap Date Night, and get two pints, dinner and bowling for $28.
A BETTER CELLAR Two Brothers takes
the guesswork out of beer aging with a smart barrel icon on the back of its labels; an empty barrel means “drink now,” while a full one tells you the beer should take a nice, long nap. Hoodwink, the brewery’s brand-new, fantastically creamy dark sour, shows a barrel nearly full—that means you can let the cherry-veiled sweet and sour notes sting your cheeks today, or stick it in the cellar for five to 10 years and let those dark malts take the edge off the pucker.
GENIUS IDEA: VinniBags store flat, then inflate to immobilize and protect bottles in your suitcase—that means no more broken beers and saison-soaked luggage. $28, vinnibag.com
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BOXED IN We’d trade cream-filled hearts and plain old caramels caramel s any day of the week for this dream-box of our favorite artisan chocolates crafted with innovative ingredients.
MARIZPAN SICILIAN PISTACHIO Knipschildt, $9 for 5, knipschildt.com
LAVENDER HONEY John & Kira’s, $32 for 15 (assorted), johnandkiras.com
WHITE RUSSIAN Sweet Shop USA, $27 for 18 (assorted), sweetshopusa.com
WHITE CHOCOLATE STRAWBERRY Godiva, $32 for 24 (assorted), godiva.com
TOFFEE-COATED FRENCH CARAMEL Julia Baker, $21 for 10, juliabaker confections.com
MACALLAN SCOTCH Valerie Confect Valerie Confections, ions, $15 for 32 (assorted), valerieconfections.com
FORGET HOT COCOA; GET YOUR CHOCOLATE FIX WITH WIT H ONE OF THE THESE SE BEE BEERS. RS.
CRÈME BRULEE Lindt, $32 for 41 (assorted), lindtusa.com
REBEL ROCKY ROAD Droga, $28 for 12, drogaconfections.com
v BOULEVARD
CHOCOLATE ALE For the second year, brewer Steven Pauwels teamed up with chocolatier Christopher Elbow to brew this specialty beer "dryhopped" with Dominican cocoa nibs. It pours orange, but tastes like chocolate milk laced with strawberry, chilies and a little bitterness.
cFOOTHILLS
SEXUAL CHOCOLATE This chocolatecharged North Carolina seasonal reappears in February. Brewed with wit h organ organic ic Per Peruvia uvian n cocoa nibs, this stout’s completely chocolaty, but there are swirls of toffee, coffee and dark fruit, too. At 9.7% ABV, it’ll certainly put you in the mood.
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cLEFTY’S
CHOCOLATE OATMEAL STOUT Oatmeal and Valrho Va lrhona na coco cocoa a powder in the brew evoke chocolatechip cookies; perky carbonation and a little roast keep the mouthfeel light.
v CHARLEVILLE
BOX OF CHOCOLATE This 10.5%-ABV Belgian-style quadrupel’s the ultimate aperitif: The aroma simply oozes chocolate, choc olate, and on the tongue, it’s a dead ringer for liqueur truffles.
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
#1 Prague beer in the world
. O C , r e v n e D C L L , s d n a r B m u i m e r P t n e d n e p e d n I H & S y b d e t r o p m I
The spirit of Prague www.staropramen.com
ONT ON TAP
ALCOHOL BY VOLUMES Science and nature inspire a new generation of beer series. BY CHRISTOPHER STATEN
E
very fall, when the air turned crisp and the central North Carolina landscape shed its green hue for a shimmering gold, the McConnell family watched watche d as the ripened r ipened fruit of its it s two persimmon trees dropped to the ground—much to the delight of the McConnells’ two dogs. “We’d talked about making persimmon pudding, but never actually did anything with them,” remembers Sharon McConnell. That is, until Fullsteam brewery founder Sean Lilly Wilson began chang changing ing the way w ay local l ocal residents view the flora around them. Wilson’s a rare breed, breed , a natural na tural leader lea der bursting with enthusiastic creativity and magnetic charm; through the power of Facebook, Twitter and blogs, he had the Internet buzzing about Fullsteam years before it ever poured its first drop of beer. A North Carolina native, Wilso Wi lson n rem remem ember berss his his fir first st jo job b wait waiting ing tab tables les at a high-end restaurant, where seasonal, locally sourced dishes were the chef’s raison d’etre . That notion stuck with him, and when he began hashing out Fullsteam, he made it his mission to treat beer-making agriculturally, “using local Southern food traditions to remind [people] that beer is agriculture,” he notes. So, two years ago, to the dismay of her dogs, McConnell responded to a Facebook post from Wilson inquiring about where he could find locally grown persimmons. “In my back yard,” yard ,” she wrote wrote.. A few days days later, later, Wilson Wilson was was crouched beneath the McConnells’ persimmon trees, scrounging up the fruit that would go into his first batch of Forager beer, a series of beer brewed with local fruits and vegetables. Today Today,, locals don’t wait for Wilson to ask before bringing over baskets of their fallen fruit. 28
Fullsteam’s Sean Lilly Wilson
On its surface, Fullsteam’s Forager series is something of a grassroots, local movement; Wilson Wil son puts puts out out a call call for for a local local wild wild fruit fruit and offers market price to anyone who delivers. The project is a culmination of his passions: Southern brewing tradition, social networking, micro-commerce and North Carolina’s oft-overlooked bounty bount y. “It’s really rewarding for us because people don’t know what persimmons or pawpaws are, and they should,” says Wilson. “That’s what gets us excited about the Forager series—we’re getting them to discover what grows in the earth around them.” Like the McConnells, families hear about the Forager collection through Twitter, Twitter, Facebook, Fullsteam blog posts, or simply word of mouth. During During harvest, they deliver bags and buckets of produce, such as figs for Wilson’s Wilson ’s Surprise Surp rise Fig Beer, Be er, to the t he brewery, bre wery, where the fru it i s in spec ted and weig weighed. hed.
SERIES PREMIERE Watch for these new beer series this year. Aspen Brewing launches its Temerity Series this spring, a collection of sour, Brett and spirit-aged brews. _______________________________________ Elysian Brewing preps for the end of the world with its new Twelve Beers of the Apocalypse, Apocalyps e, released on the 21st of each month. _______________________________________ Great Divide’s Yeti beers—all riffs on the famous imperial stout of the same name— transition into an official series this year, with new packaging and a formal release schedule. _______________________________________ Thirsty Dog releases the big guns with a new barrel-aged series in 750mL bottles, including a Belgian-style tripel, dubbel, imperial stout and strong Scotch ale. _______________________________________ JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
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Wilson then cuts them a check—a major part right now, a years-in-the-making series is of his mission to build what he calls “a quietly unfolding in Fort Collins, Colo., under Southern beer economy.” Should a family the microscope of Crooked Stave’s Chad decline the offer, he donates the money to a Yakobson. local community garden. A few years back, if you wanted to find “It’s nice we have a useful thing to do Yakobson, the best place to look was in his with the fruit of a tree we’ve always admired,” makeshift laboratory at Heriot-Watt notes McConnell. “For years our property was University’s International Centre for Brewing a farm, and in a small way it’s agriculturally and Distilling in Edinburgh, Scotland. At the productive again.” time, he was slogging his way Specialty beer series, through a master’s dissertaSpecialty beer series collections of beers brewed tion even his professors didn’t by one brewer around a understand: “Pure Culture have captured the theme, have captured imagiFermentation Characteristics imagination since nations since brewers began of Brettanomyces Yeast brewers began releasing limited-edition botSpecies and Their Use in the experimenting with tles of their barrel-aged Brewing Industry.” In short, it experiments in the early was a trailblazing s tudy on barrel-aging in the 2000s. But the most interesthow Brettanomyces—a wild early 2000s and ing series—like the Forager yeast used sparingly in beer releasing limited-edition line—often speak to brewers’ styles like Belgian lambics, personal passions, and let and considered a rogue agent bottles to consumers. them step away from their in brewhouses—can be harless creative but more lucranessed as a sole fermenting tive flagship beers. Dogfish yeast. Any one scho ole d in Head’s Sam Calagione and University of brewing science and having an abundance of Pennsylvania’s Patrick McGovern galavant free time should peek at the research, posted around the world Indiana Jones-style, resuropen-source-style on his Brettanomyces recting historic and pre-historic fermented Project website. beverages. Brooklyn Brewery’s Garrett Oliver He opened Crooked Stave brewery last manipulates his beer ingredients to replicate year, and his Wild Wild Brett (W.W.B.) series is classic cocktails, while Flying Fish’s Gene his first achievement: It’s a collection of 100Muller is well on his way to brewing a beer for percent Brett beers brewed with ingredients every exit on the New Jersey Turnpike. And inspired by the color spectrum. “Beer primarily
fermented with Brett is a whole new beer; it’s not an ale or a lager, it’s a style or category of its own that doesn’t really exist yet,” explains Yakobson. “Right now, I’ve got 10 different types of Brett yeast, and I’m choosing different strains that pair with the colors and ingredients.” First came Rouge, brewed with two Brett strains, rose hips, hibiscus and Hawthorn berries, giving the final brew a reddish hue. Next was Orange, brewed with four Brett strains, fresh tangelos, bitter orange peel and citrusy Indian coriander. Yellow was inspired by the flavors of Indian cuisine, with turmeric, tart mangos and coriander—and so forth. Yakobson’s experiments have allowed him to pull out flavors from the yeast that were once unimaginable. “I’m selecting Brett for its fruit-forwardness, and less of the barnyard characteristics,” he points out. His scientific wiz ard ry shines in beers lik e t he one-off experiment Petite Sour, packed with fresh guava notes derived from the yeast. “I’m trying to reeducate. People automatically assume Brett is sour, and while it will produce a tiny bit of tartness, it’s a clean yeast that can produce fruity esters,” he says. “Its diversity is even greater than Saccharomyces [the genus of ale and lager yeast], and there’s a potential to have 1,000 different yeast strains.” In a way, all of the brewers are scientists, testing their theses with each new batch. The takeaway for drinkers is the opportunity to explore a single theme with every installment.
LOOKING FOR A BEER SERIES TO DIG INTO? Here are some of the most intriguing bottled series on shelves.
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CULINARY
ROMANTIC
STOGIE-INSPIRED
Belgium’s Brouwerij De Troch fuses sweet fruit with funky lambics in its Chapeau series, which launched Stateside late last year. Sip its lemon, apricot and banana lambics, made with real fruit and natural fruit juices.
Stillwater’s Brian Strumke crisscrosses Europe to brew his Import Series, and each beer feels like a postcard from abroad. Of Love & Regret, a saison brewed in Antwerp, Belgium, evokes springtime with heather, chamomile, lavender and dandelion additions.
Cigar City stays true to its name with its Humidor Series, a growing collection of beers aged on Spanish cedrela, a wood commonly used for cigar boxes. Installments include a Scottish gruit, imperial stout and the exquisite year-round Humidor India Pale Ale.
TOURISTY
HISTORIC
Ever wonder what’s beyond the New Jersey Turnpike exits? Each beer in Flying Fish’s Exit Series is brewed as a nod to a piece of culture from every stop, like Exit 9, a hoppy red ale commemorating the home of Rutgers University.
If you’re curious about what people imbibed during the Neolithic period, grab a bottle of Chateau Jiahu, one installment of Dogfish Head’s Ancient Ales series. From King Midas’ meadlike tipple to an ancient Honduras chocolate beer, these brews are a trip back in time.
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
E I B O R N I V E K
WORLD’S BEST DARK ALE Inspired by the great Belgian brewing tradition of Trappist monks established over the centuries, Unibroue 17 was first brewed in 2007 to celebrate our brewery’s 17th anniversary. However, the overwhelming success of this specialty brew made it obvious that we could not let such a gre at ale slip into the anonymity of retirement. As testimony to its remarkable flavor pro file which increa ses in compl exity as it age s, the original batch bottled in 2007 was awarded an international platinum medal three years in a row, and the prestigious title of “World’s Best Dark Ale” wh en it was well past three ye ars in the bottle! So in 2011, we proudly brought back this French Oak aged, bottle refermented dark ale, with the “Grande Réserve” appellation as a fitting endorsement of its exceptional quality for aging. Brewed only once a year, in limited quantities, and individually numbered “brasseur” bottles, this is truly a flavorful delight for the specialty beer enthusiast. Tasting notes on unibroue.com
WORLD BEER AWARDS LONDON UK WORLD’S BEST DARK ALE 2010
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January / February 2012
TOP 10 PLACES TO DRINK A BEER
4
Bill Speidel’s Underground Tour weaves through Seattle’s original downtown district, which was destroyed by fire in 1889 and later built over. See old storefronts and passageways underneath the now bustling Pioneer Square, then reemerge and head a few blocks to Elysian Fields, Elysian Brewery’s stadium district brewpub. There, you’ll find The Trip, an ongoing collaboration series wit h New Belgium that recently spotlighted Australian and New Zealand hops in The Trip IX Down Under IPA.
BY CHRISTOPHER STATEN
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1
Portland’s iconic Rogue-operated Green Dragon pub is known for its regional focus, but nothing’s as local as Buckman Botanical beers, brewed behind the bar. Depart from the Northwest’s hopmonsters with Buckman’s Chamomellow, a pale ale with a chamomile twist.
T We’ve fantasized about fast food and beer ever since John Travolta waxed poetic about European McDonald’s locations in “Pulp Fiction.” Miami’s Sonic Beach, a branch of the fast food joint, is the closest thing stateside: Chow down on a Carolina pulled-pork sandwich alongside a cool pint of Heavy Seas Loose Cannon IPA.
On Feb. 9, The Lost Abbey releases its limitededition Red Poppy, a Flanders-style red ale that not only garnered a 99-point review, but also made our 2011 Beers of the Year list. Sip this king of sours at the source, or scour shelves for a bottle.
Y After a day of hunting down prehistoric rel ics like the Standing Stones of Stenness on Scotland’s Orkney Islands, warm your bones inside The Orkney Hotel’s Victoria Restaurant with a steaming plate of lobster and a pint of Orkney Brewi ng’s rare Dark Island Reserve, a malty old ale aged in local whiskey casks.
7
Sate your carnie appetite at San Fran’s STRAW , where gourmet, state-fairstyle dishes like rosemary turkey legs and pints of Cucupá Chupacabra Pale Ale create pure carnival bliss.
8
Whisk your valentine to the source of all things chocolate: Hershey, Penn., home of Hershey Park. Start with Hershey’s Great American Chocolate Tour, a free ride that tracks the cocoa bean from rain forest to factory, then create a custom chocolate bar. Unwrap your creation alongside a coffeepacked pint of Tröegs JavaHead Stout, just down the road at the brewery’s new tasting room.
O Stock up on local truffles at the Oregon Truffle Marketplace, part of Eugene’s annual Oregon Truffle Festival on Jan. 29. Then head over to nearby Oakshire Brewing in search of the best beer to pair with your fungi: Try the savory winter seasonal brown, Ill Tempered Gnome Winter Ale.
3
Proving you can never milk a cow dry, George Lucas’ “ Star Wars” saga returns to theaters in February with the 3D version of “Episode I: The Phantom Menace.” Purists take note: Spend your ticket money on New England’s Imperial Stout Trooper winter seasonal, dust off your original “Star Wars” VHS tapes and spend the night watching the series in the seclusion of your basement.
P
CHILL OUT, WARM UP Embrace Vermont’s epic snowfall at the StoweWinterCarnival, Jan. 16 to 29, where events like Snowvolleyball and ice sculpting draw throngs of visitors. Don’t miss the Norwegian Ice Music Festival, featuring actual instruments made from ice, before retreating inside the quaint Shed Restaurant & Brewery with a pint of Mountain Ale, a malt-packed strong ale. 48 32
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THE HOPPIEST PLACE ON EARTH Six German beers launch in an unlikely spot.
I
t seemed like a smart move for Germany’s Radeberger Gruppe to test six of its authentic German beer s outside of a beer hall, in the shadow of a Germanic castle. Throw in the fact that both the castle and the beer hall are in Disney World? Genius. During last fall’s Epcot Food and Wine Festival, streams of stroller-pushing parents, grandparents and young couples sporting mouse ears stopped outside of Epcot’s German Pavilion to taste schnitzel and fill their cups with a few German beers at the only place you could find them stateside. With the resounding success of the launch, Radeberger will be rolling out these beers more broadly across the country.
NEW IN 2012: Look for these Radeberger beers around the states P HÖVELS ORIGINAL
This amber-color specialty beer comes from Dortmund, Germany, and the recipe dates back to 1893. A rich blend of light and dark barley malt, wheat malt and roasted malt creates a complex profile: Thick caramel and bread flavor are ornamented with sweet raisin fruitiness.
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P BRAUFACTUM ROOG
This complex smoked wheat beer from Bamberg, Germany, gets its campfire flavors from malts roasted over a beechwood fire. Soft wheat and banana address the tongue first before the smoky character emerges and fills the mouth; it finishes clean with a touch of bitterness in the back.
P BRAUFACTUM INDRA
A German twist on an American-style IPA, this unfiltered wheat version has traditional wheat beer signatures like banana and clove in the nose, and honey-orange sweetness on the tongue; eventually, they give way to classic IPA citric hop bite, grassiness and bitterness. JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
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BOOK NOW:
KATE DAY IN PORTSMOUTH, N.H. Once a year, New Hampshire’s Portsmouth Brewery releases its illustrious Kate the Great Russian Imperial Stout to hordes of thirsty beer geeks on the morning of Kate Day—this year, on March 5. Score Kate on tap until the kegs run dry, or if you hold a winning scratch ticket, buy a bottle; when you’re stouted out, explore this little city by the sea and the big flavors waiting at every turn. P DRINK: Sidle up to
the snooker table and grab a pint at the Coat of Arms (174 Fleet St., coatofarmspub.com), a British pub where the cask ales and specialty imports pair up great with the bangers and mash and tartan décor. Beers like Belhaven Stout and Twisted Thistle IPA are on draft, and the always-changing casks include treats like the English-born, Shipyard-brewed Old Thumper ESB.
P EAT: Dinner at
Black Trumpet Bistro (29 Ceres St., black trumpetbistro.com) is a culinary adventure where even simple ingredients get the superstar treatment. Chef Evan Mallett, a 2011 James Beard semi-finalist for Best Chef, Northeast, might elevate the humble cabbage by stuffing it with rye berry and pine nut risotto or pair potato chips with truffle-whipped foie gras. The restaurant uses local—and sometimes even foraged—ingredients for innovative dishes that change every few weeks to reflect seasonality.
P STAY: The sleekly
retro Ale House Inn (121 Bow St., alehouse inn.com) has a sophisticated vibe and décor that’s nautical without hitting you over the head with a buoy. Located in a former brewery warehouse, the inn has iPads loaded with local menus in every room; energy-efficient flatscreen TVs; bikes to borrow; and free tickets to the adjacent theater when there’s a show going on. Plus, two complementary Smuttynose beers await thirsty travelers at check-in. –Alexandra Pecci
BEER SCIENCE Where there’s good water, there’s good beer, and Milwaukee’s primo location at the confluence of three rivers certainly had a hand in its vibrant brewing culture. In celebration of the city’s watery abundance, Milwaukee’s Discovery World science center recently unveiled THIRST Lab for Freshwater Innovation. While it’s dedicated to all things that freshwater can become (like tea and perfume), THIRST Lab’s most extensive program is all about the brew: Visitors are invited to tinker with ingredients and play on a one-barrel system with guest brewers from the MillerCoors Pilot Brewery, Lakefront Brewery and Leinenkugel’s. For those interested in the roots of beer, staff archeologist and ancient brewing scholar Kevin Cullen heads up Ales Through the Ages this spring, an adult education program where guests explore, brew and bottle historic beverages like ancient Egyptian ale and old Irish curim ale. discoveryworld.org
MILWAUKEE’S BEST TOUR!
Beyond THIRST Lab, Discovery World offers “Legacies of Milwaukee Brewing” tours around the city, guiding participants through Milwaukee’s current brewing meccas and historic beer hideaways. 36
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WHERE TO DRINK NEXT
OKLAHOMA CITY For a 3.2 state, Oklahoma’s firing on all four cylinders. The hub of the action is OKC, but from Marshall Brewing in Tulsa to Choc Beer Co. in Krebs, local craft producers have suddenly found themselves in good company. BY RUTH TOBIAS
RePUBlic Gastropub
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TAPWERKS
Housed in an old Bricktown factory, Tapwerks looks every bit the well-worn U.K. pub. But the globe-spanning 212 taps themselves (along with the sizable bottle selection) are “skewing more toward American craft beers every day,” explains GM/buyer Greg Powell—and so are his customers. Case in point: COOP’s superhoppy F-5 IPA “is selling right up there with Guinness.” Powell’s so optimistic he’s launching a cellaring program—starting with bombers of COOP DNR. 121 E. Sheridan Ave., tapwerks.com
P
BATTERED BOAR BREWING
“I’m not here to make geriatric, coffee-table beer,” vows Battered Boar’s Edmond-born brewmaster, Mike Sandefur. “Beer’s as diverse as the brewer’s imagination.” That much is clear with a single sip of not only flagships like fruity Briarpatch Amber Ale but the funky, toasty Coconut Cream Stout and newcomers ranging from chocolate-cherry porter to homegrown dandelion ale. 14801 Metro Plaza Blvd. Unit 6, batteredboar.com
P
RePUBlic GASTROPUB
All black panels and glass panes, this ultrasleek gastropub on Classen Curve backs up its style with substance. Beverage director Jason Ewald oversees a list of some 250 bottles and 100 drafts, rounded out by flights and beer cocktails that the pros behind the stick will gladly customize. The food, meanwhile, is as fresh as the space: Don’t miss the burger with white Cheddar and porter-hickory sauce, or the spiced donuts with a trio of dipping sauces. 5830 N. Classen Blvd., republicgastropub.com
P JAMES E. MCNELLIE’S PUBLIC HOUSE
Like Tapwerks, this comfy, memorabilia-filled, multilevel Midtown hang boasts a hundreds-strong selection of drafts and bottles from 26 countries, as well as flights and mixes like the Oklahoma Yellow Jacket (half Guinness, half locally brewed Mustang Wheat). But it also serves up a slew of community events, from pint nights and Firkin Fridays to beer dinners and tasting seminars. 1100 Classen Dr., mcnelliesokc.com
P
REDBUD BREWING
Founded in early 2011 by former COOP brewer Chase Healey, Redbud has only just begun to sprout—but it’s sure to bloom big and bright. The flagship Pale Ale is already a local cult favorite, while the Cuvée series is a study in Belgian-inspired richness; in the works are an imperial chocolate stout, a barrel-aged barleywine, and monthly one-offs. 421 S.W. 26th St., redbudbrewing.com
P COOP ALE WORKS
Farmhouse sours. Wheat wines brewed with local honey. Collaborations with Bulleit and Templeton. On the burgeoning OKC scene, COOP is the one to beat. Though “quality over quantity,” as partner J.D. Merryweather puts it, remains its simple formula for success, the results have been such that the brewery’s currently moving from a seven- to a 30-barrel system. That means more of its distinctively citrusy Native Amber Ale for everyone. 1124 NW 51st St., coopaleworks.com
c FORWARD FOODS True story: With wife Suzy Thompson, Steve Reynolds—or Wampus, as he’s widely known to locals—opened this one-stop shop for artisanal cheeses and gourmet accoutrements galore after winning big as a contestant on Jeopardy! in 2004. During regular in-store tutorials, he drops serious knowledge about beer-and-cheese pairings alongside McNellie’s resident expert, Adam Price. (And no, he doesn’t do so in question form.) 5123 N. Western Ave., forwardfoods.com 38
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WHERE TO DRINK NEXT
SAINT LOUIS A new beer scene is emerging from the shadow of America’s most famous brewery. BY JOE STANGE
Urban Chestnut
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URBAN CHESTNUT BREWING
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IRON BARLEY
Open since January 2011, Urban Chestnut’s tasting room hits many sweet spots at once. It offers wide variety, typically with around 14 of its beers on tap any given day. It offers full-flavored traditional German styles, like its rustic Zwickel, a s well as more Americanstyle innovations, including a session-strength IPA and several heavily hopped lagers. And it has a small beer garden out front, complete with long tables imported from Germany. Old school for the new school. 3229 Washington Ave., urbanchestnut.com
Many St. Louis restaurants are beefing up their beer lists these days, but the first suggestion from many local geeks would be Iron Barley. Owner-chef Tom Coghill’s Midwestern oak-roasted pork and other comfort grub was made-from-scratch tasty enough to get a look-in from both Guy Fieri and Adam Richman. Coghill is al so a longtime homebrewer and beer geek, and it shows in a smart list of 10 taps, including a cask selection, with strength in the locally brewed. 5510 Virginia, ironbarley.com
P
THE CIVIL LIFE BREWING
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SCHLAFLY TAP ROOM
After Jake Hafner sold his popular 33 Wine Bar to new owners in 2009 (it remains a local institution), he hit the roads of Europe looking for inspiration for life’s next chapter. He came back with the conviction to open a brewery. The Civil Life’s two-level pub is built into the side of the brew house and has stools that overlook the kit. Hafner designed the pub and its various cubbies to facilitat e conversation, while brewer Dylan Mosley has designed the beers—many below 5% ABV—to do the same. 3714 Holt Ave., thecivillifebrewingcompany.com
Newcomers get all the buzz, but locals have cemented the Saint Louis Brewery as a Midwestern institution (file alongside Boulevard, Goose Island and New Glarus). Known for its Schlafly beers, its original home remains the Schlafly Tap Room downtown. This is where to taste the latest brewhouse experiments and pub fare—ooh, bacon-wrapped meatloaf muffin?—that has gone from strength to strength over the years. 2100 Locust St., schlafly.com
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BRIDGE
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4 HANDS BREWERY
Every major city worth its salt has a taphouse with 40plus drafts these days. St. Louis has a few, but downtown’s Bridge is the most distinctive. Loft tables overlook the long bar and its Tim Burton-esque treebranch chandeliers. Beer sizes range from 4-ounce tasters to 64-ounce growlers to satisfy various thirsts and budgets. Nibbles run the gamut from chipotlehoney roasted nuts to a beef-bacon-manchego bolognese. The discerning wine list appeases our less beery friends. 1004 Locust St., thebridgestl.com
To say brewmaster Will Johnston is doing creative stuff would be an understatement: In the few short months 4 Hands’ tanks have been firing, he’s already knocked out a fresh-hop saison, a dry-hopped rye wine and a few more regulars—oh, and there’s also that vanilla-beanand-coffee-brewed imperial stout sitting in Elijah Craig barrels. A sustainably-designed tasting room opened in late fall, just blocks f rom Busch Stadium. 1220 S. 8th St., 4handsbrewery.com
c NEIGHBORS: BEER & BARBECUE
Buffalo Brewing
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Pappy’s
The St. Louis barbecue scene has gained national attention thanks to a couple of smokehouses that happen to be within easy walking distance of some top-flight beer. The line is out the door at Pappy’s (3106 Olive St., pappyssmokehouse.com) when it opens at 11 a.m. in Midtown Alley, the same neighborhood that is home to Urban Chestnut (above), Six Row (3690 Forest Park Ave., sixrowbrewco.com) and Buffalo (3100 Olive St., buffalo- brewingstl.com) breweries. In the historic Soulard neighborhood—still home to Anheuser-Busch —Bogart’s (1627 S. 9th St., bogartssmokehouse.com) serves smoked prime rib a block from the International Tap House (1711 S. 9th St., internationaltaphouse.com) and its 40 beer faucets. JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
E G N A T S E O J
TO OUR FELLOW ST. LOUIS CRAFT BREWERS– ‘PROST!’
We’re proud to be part of the St. Louis craft brewing community. Learn more about Urban Chestnut & our ‘new-world meets old-world’ brewing philosophy at UrbanChestnut.com
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WHERE TO DRINK NEXT
TRAVERSE CITY, MICH. When it comes to the mitten, all the action’s in the pinky: Northern Michigan’s largest city puts out plenty of beer and some sweet spots to sip it in. BY CAROLYN MALCOUN
Mission Table
P RIGHT BRAIN BREWERY
Craft beers made with creative ingredients are the name of the game at this Warehouse District brewery. Brewer Corey Wentworth was a chef for 20 years, so he isn’t afraid to put everything from cold-smoked pig bones to roasted asparagus and whole cherry pies into his beers. He aims to have at least 12 beers on tap every day, including standbys like Black “Eye” P.A., a hoppy stout, and Northern Hawk Owl Amber Ale, along with a handful of crazier beers. Business is so brisk, plans for a bigger brewery are in the works. 221 Garland St., rightbrainbrewery.com
P BREWERY TERRA FIRMA Brewer John Neidermaier cut his brewing teeth at Traverse Brewing and Right Brain, all the while dreaming about opening his own farm-to-bottle brewery. With his new operation located on the outskirts of town, Niedermaier plans to grow most of what he needs to make his one-of-a-kind beers on the 10-acre propert y, and what he doesn’t grow himself he’ll source from local farms. Right now, look for his take on a colonial ale, brewed with honey-baked parsnips, Indian corn, roasted pumpkin, black walnut and spices, and his fire-roasted sweet corn cream ale in the summer. 2951 Hartman Rd., brewery- terrafirma.com
P THE SHED
A trip to Traverse City isn’t complete without a visit to this airy, comfortable bar. The Shed prides itself on carrying at least one beer from every microbrewery in the state, including a handful on tap. If your stomach’s growling, order a juicy burger, creative sandwich or a plate of smoked meat from the attached Blue Tractor Cook Shop. Don’t miss the ultracreamy mac and cheese with smoked chicken, chilies and jack cheese—it’s fantastic paired with Short’s Huma Lupa Licious IPA. 423 S. Union St., bluetractorcookshop.com
P MISSION TABLE
If you’re in the mood for a fine meal paired with local beer, wine and spirits, hop up the Old Mission Peninsula to Mission Table. Grab a seat on the expansive patio overlooking Grand Traverse Bay or dine inside—either way you’ll be treated to a divine meal inspired by the bounty of local fruits, vegetables, meat and seafood created with an expert touch by Chef Paul Olson. If it’s on the menu, don’t miss the local lamb loin with house-made kimchi, a perfectly poached egg and potato puree—it’s just right with a glass of Jolly Pumpkin Bam Noire, straight from the brewery’s satellite location on the property. 13512 Peninsula Dr., missiontable.net
P NORTH PEAK BREWING
North Peak has been brewing classic session beers like Diabolical IPA and Siren Amber Ale along with some inspired seasonal beers since 1995. Depending on the time of your visit, grab a pint of Archangel (summer wheat) or Darkangel (porter), both brewed with local sour cherries. Don’t miss Hoodoo if it’s on tap; the brewers pick their own fresh hops for that one. Many of the brewpub’s dishes feature North Peak’s beer, too; try a bowl of cheddar-ale soup with mustard-pretzel croutons, or a slab of ribs glazed in cherry porter barbecue sauce. 400 W. Front St., northpeak.net
P TANDEM CIDERS
A visit to this artisanal cidery is well worth the 30-minute detour out of Traverse City up the West Bay. Belly up to Tandem’s comfortable bar and let Dan Young or Nikki Rothwell, the dynamic husband-wife duo who run Tandem, pour you a glass of one of their many fine ciders made solely from locally grown apples. Sip on Pretty Penny, made from heritage and heirloom apples, or Cyser, a dry, lip-smacking cider, while you play darts with the locals or nosh on a plate of Leelanau Cheese Co. raclette and bagel chips from a local baker. 2055 N. Setterbo Rd., Suttons Bay, tandemciders.com
c MICHIGAN HOP ALLIANCE
The Shed
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North Peak
Representing 10 hop growers, mostly from the Grand Traverse area, the Michigan Hop Alliance promotes brewing Michigan beers with Michigan hops. Members of the alliance sell their hops directly to breweries like Right Brain, Short’s and Jolly Pumpkin as well as local homebrew stores. About half of the hops are certified organic, and 14 varieties are available with more on the way in 2012. michiganhopalliance.com JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
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St. Elmo (left) is an Indy institution. But after winning a record eight medals at this year’s GABF, Sun King Brewing (below) is, too.
BEERTOWN, U.S.A.: INDIANAPOLIS With a booming slate of microbreweries, a diverse restaurant scene and its own distinctive brand of Hoosier hospitality, Naptown is anything but sleepy. Indianapolis proves its mettle this month by playing host to Super Bowl XLVI. BY AMY LYNCH
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BREWERIES A microbrew ing renaiss ance is underway in Indy, heralded by a handful of new operations within the past two years and more on deck. In July 2009, fun-loving Sun King Brewing (Downtown, sunkingbrewing.com) became the city’s first full-scale production brewery to open since Indianapolis Brewing closed in 1948. Creative quaffs like Crab Apple Wit and 2011 GABF medalist Popcorn Pilsner made from locally sourced ingredients keep fans coming back. Rob Caputo, head brewer at Flat12 Bierwerks (Downtown, flat12.me), has a penchant for porters, so his beer lineup revolves around his smooth Pogue’s Run incarnation. Seasonal variations infuse the flavors of tangerine, black-rum-soaked oak chips and glazed ham spices. Bier Brewery (Binford Corridor, bierbrewery.com) beat out more than 1,000 entries from throughout the country to wi n th e co ve te d 20 11 In di an a St at e Fai r Brewer’s Cup. This sophisticated nanobrewery cranks out small batches each week for sampling and growler fills; the crisp kölsch and
Belgian wit are standouts. Laid-back Thr3e Wise Men Brewing (Broad Ripple, thr3ewise men.com) concocts classic American-style beers for Scotty’s Brewhouse locations around the state. The Two Lucy’s Blackberry Wheat, made with Oregon-grown fruit and Cluster hops, packs a tangy punch. A 20-year-old mainstay, the Broad Ripple Brewpub (Broad Ripple, broadrippl ebrewpub.com) claims the title of Indiana’s oldest operating brewpub. Its ambiance calls to mind a traditional English pub, but caters to non-meat-eaters with a full menu heavy on vegetarian fare that complements the Lawn Mower Pale Ale and a balanced ESB. New kid on the block Triton Brewing (Fort Benjamin Harrison, triton brewing.com) cuts a dashing figure in a renovated 1920s brick barn on the grounds of a former military base; ask for an impromptu tour when you arrive. The family-frie ndly tasting room offers pours of reverse-osmosis-crafted beers including the citrusy Railsplitter IPA. Headquartered in Bloomington, Upland Brewing (South Broad Ripple, uplandbeer.com) manages a popular outpost in Indianapolis where sippers can test-drive the wares, including the seasonal and superbly caramelly Ard Ri Irish red, within a cozy coffee-shop-style tasting room.
BARS Tomlinson Tap Room (Downtown, tomlinson taproom.com) commandeers a sunny mezzanine corner of the historic City Market building to serve a rotating selection of Indiana-made microbrews. Selections change weekly, making
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
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Thr3e Wise Men Brewing (top) makes innovative beer in modern digs, while Tomlinson Tap Room (center) serves only local brew inside the historic City Market.
showcase seasonal ingredients. Bon Appetit named the Batali sandwich at Goose the Market (Fall Creek Place, goosethemarket.com) one of the best in the country, but there’s also a deli counter packed with house-cured meats, cheeses and gelato to consider. Go online to track down Duos food truck (duosindy.com) for a short menu of hyperfresh organic sandwiches, soups, salads and desserts that changes each week. Café Patachou (various locations, cafepatachou.com) bills itself a “student union for adults,” where diners are encouraged to help themselves to gourmet coffee while they wait for a table. The broken-yolk egg sandwiches and the “Hippie with a Benz” omelet are satisfying choices for breakfast, lunch or brunch. SLEEP
this a great place to sample some of the best beers the state has to offer. During warm weather months, the huge outdoor biergarten at the Rathskeller (Downtown, rathskeller.com) is a popular backdrop for live music; this time of year, stay inside the Bavarian-esque beer hall (one of many rooms in the 19th-century Athenaeum building) where patrons down German food and a vast beer selection. Opened last year, The Sinking Ship (South Broad Ripple, thesinkingship.com) has quickly gained a following for its slightly raucous vibe, chatty servers and draft beer (including pours from local newbie Fountain Square) served in oldschool Mason jars. A few blocks north, Twenty Tap (South Broad Ripple, twentytap.com) offers, yes, 20 taps of regional craft beers, along with a noteworthy Cuban sandwich. DINE
Although Indianapolis is home to an array of spectacular ethnic eateries, some of the best restaurants excel at putting modern spins on good old Midwestern comfort food. No Indy 46
visit is complete without a stop at St. Elmo Steak House (Downtown, stelmos.com), a local landmark since 1902 famous for its sinus-searing spicy shrimp cocktail. The new St. Elmo 1933 Lounge provides a speakeasy-style perch for a pre- or post-dinner cocktail. Across downtown, industrial-chic Black Market (Mass Ave., blackmarketindy.net) proffers a well-edited beer list and terrific gastropub grub; don’t miss the unusually addictive house pickle plate with crunchy peanut butter for dipping. Diners never know what to expect at Recess (South Broad Ripple, recessindy.com), and that’s the main attraction: Chef Greg Hardesty changes up his four-course prix-fixe menu daily to
Thirty-three floors earn the J.W. Marriott (Downtown, marriott.com) bragging rights as the tallest hotel in the state. This massive metallic blue monolith is positioned for prime access to White River State Park attractions, Circle Centre Mall and trendy downtown restaurants. Need pampering? The Conrad (Downtown, conradindianapolis.com) delivers with an on-site luxury spa/salon, Tastings win e b ar and t he spl urg e-w ort hy Cap ita l Grille. Fresh off an $8 million renovation, the Omni Severin ( Wholesale District, omni hotels.com ) digs feature breathtaking views; request a room with a balcony, then pick up a growler to enjoy al fresco.
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PASS ME A WARM ONE Heading up to Indy for the Super Bowl? Better stock up on beer before the game. On Sundays, Indiana forbids selling beer in retail spots (bars and restaurants only), and every other day of the week, suds can only be sold at room temperature at most retailers. And because drinkers will cross state lines to buy booze, that means a loss of about $9 to $12 million in tax revenue for the state: Hoosiers for Beverage Choices is working to change Indiana’s beverage laws; contribute to the cause at ChangeItIndiana.org.
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
Epic Sour Ales
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PORTER HOUSE BY LARAINE PERRI
A
swanky steakhouse dinner reimagined— your steak, your house, your style. Start with the premium cut of your choice (ribeye is ours, but you’d do no wrong with a porterhouse, strip steak or tenderloin). Top your perfectly seared steak with a decadent Maytag blue cheese butter, then gild the lily with a luscious coffee porter-based jus. The beer’s roasted coffee and bittersweet notes make for a complex-tasting sauce that belies its mad simplicity. Now there’s a steak worth its buzz. COFFEE PORTER RIBEYE WITH BLUE CHEESE-WALNUT BUTTER Serves 4 2 tablespoons walnuts 1 garlic clove, halved 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
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11 / 2 ounces Maytag blue cheese 1 tablespoon minced fresh chives 4 12-ounce boneless ribeye steaks Kosher salt and fresh-ground black pepper 2 teaspoons vegetable oil 1 / 2 cup Philadelphia Brewing Joe Coffee Porter 2 tablespoons pure maple syrup 3 / 4 teaspoon cornstarch • Heat a small skillet over medium heat until hot. Add the walnuts and cook, tossing, until fragrant and lightly toasted, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board. Cool completely, then finely chop. • Rub the cut garlic clove over the bottom of a small bowl; discard garlic. Add the butter and blue cheese, and using a fork, blend together. Stir in the walnuts, chives, and a grind of black pepper. Transfer the mixture to a piece of plastic wrap, form into a log and chill. (The butter can be made up to
3 days ahead and refrigerated.) • Let steaks stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before cooking. Heat two large heavy skillets (cast iron are best) over medium-high heat until very hot but not smoking. Season steaks very generously on both sides with salt and pepper. Add 1 teaspoon oil to each skillet, swirl to coat; place two steaks in each pan. Cook the steaks to desired doneness, about 3 to 4 minutes on each side for medium-rare, depending on thickness. Transfer the steaks to a platter, tent with foil, and let rest 5 minutes. • While steaks rest, combine the porter and maple syrup in a small saucepan over medium heat; bring to a boil. In a small dish, combine the cornstarch with 1 teaspoon water; whisk into the porter mixture. Reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer 2 minutes. • Top each steak with a generous slice of the blue cheese butter, and spoon some of the porter sauce alongside them. JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
E I B O R N I V E K
Get off the beaten trail . . .
Hand-Crafted Bottle Conditioned 8.59 % ABV 100 % Pure Ale
Black Imperial IPA Scotch Ale Tripel Hopped Rye Export Stout Rocket Bike AMERICAN
LAGER 5.5% ABV*
16 OZ
Johnny’s AMERICAN
IPA 7% ABV* *May vary by state
16 OZ
OPEN YEAR ROUND - 686 S MAIN ST; MOAB, UT
www.themoabbrewery.com DISTRIBUTOR/BROKER OPPORTUNITIES: 435.259.HOPS
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FIRE IN THE HOLE In Nashville, it’s not just the music that’s hot: There’s also the sinus-searing, tongue-obliterating fried chicken that can only be cured with a quart of milk and a prayer. The local diet staple arrives on white bread with pickles, but you’d do well to order a side of coleslaw, potato salad—or a fire hose.
BURNING
Above: Hospoda’s all-foam sweet pour; Below: The headless neat version
HOSPODA: PILSNER PERFECT
L
ocated in Manhattan’s Bohemian National Hall (also the Czech consulate), Hospoda is an enchanting little spot dishing up small plates of contemporary Czech cuisine, like rabbit, smoked beef tongue and roasted squab. Though primarily a restaurant, Hospoda actually translates to “beer house” in Czech, and the man behind the brew here is none other than 2010’s International Master Bartender of the Year, Prague native Lukas Svoboda. The beer’s impeccably fresh, typically less than three weeks old and always served at 44.5 degrees. The catch? The only beer on tap is Pilsner Urquell, but it’s served in four distinct ways: sweet, slice, crème and neat. Devised at a sibling location in Prague, the sweet (mliko ) is nearly entirely foam: Drink it quickly, for a sweet, mouth-filling experience. Slice ( snyt ) features a substantial “four-finger foam” that has a smooth, refreshing mouthfeel, but a bit more bite. The creme (hladinka ) is the normal pour with a standard head, while the neat (cochtan ) features no head at all, allowing the Saaz hop bitterness to shine. Experience all four pours in 0.3 Liter mugs for $19. –Mike Riccetti Hospoda, 321 E. 73rd St., New York City, hospodanyc.com
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Bolton’s Spicy Chicken and Fish Though the tiny pink room seems to say otherwise, one does indeed need to man up to order the skillet-fried mild, spicy or extra spicy chicken (the place also makes a mean hot fish). The spicy version has a dusting of peppery heat; co-owner Dolly Ingram says, “It has a nice kick to it, but it doesn’t make you lose your composure.” 624 Main St., 615.254.8015 ..................................................................... SCORCHING
Prince’s Hot Chicken Shack The chicken that started it all four generations ago is still available at this cash-only Nashville institution with a surly staff. Choose from mild, medium, hot and extra-hot; the hot style is seriously tongue-stinging, though the crispy crust gives the heat something to cling to. 123 Ewing Dr., 615.226.9442 ..................................................................... TEAR-INDUCING
400 Degrees Hot Chicken Most patrons are sane enough to order this dive’s 100° or 200° crusty, skillet-fried chicken, spiced up with paprika and cayenne; only the truly brave should attempt the deep-fried 400°, an almost inhumane batch set ablaze with habanero. The burn hurts less if you get a smile and a bowl of sweet baked beans from gracious owner Aqui Simpson. 319 Peabody St.,400degreeshotchicken.com JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
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Canele
THE MORNING AFTER: LOS ANGELES After a night of rubbing elbows with a glamorous, “Who do you know?” Hollywood crowd, come down to earth in Los Angeles’ artsy Silver Lake neighborhood. With a cool, low-key vibe, it’s the perfect spot for brunching yourself back to normal.
LOCAL
CANELE
CLIFF’S EDGE
2943 W. Sunset Blvd., silverlakelocal.com
3219 Glendale Blvd., canele-la.com
3626 W. Sunset Blvd., cliffsedgecafe.com
True to its name, Local proudly sources organic ingredients from nearby vendors and farmers. Lest you think this sustainable ethos translates to weak brunch fare, think again: The braised pork belly and eggs will battle the heaviest of budding hangovers, as will the BBQ pork hash and hearty whole-wheat, cast-iron banana walnut pancake. For something a little lighter, do as many locals do and order the chilaquiles with tofu, black beans, crème fraiche and salsa. The outdoor seating gives you full view of the hipsters motoring down Silver Lake’s slice of Sunset Boulevard.
Canele’s brick-lined interior is a perfect setting for the restaurant’s inspired interpretations of rustic California-Mediterranean cuisine. The mountainous slabs of crispy, custardy French toast, topped with poached prunes and mascarpone, might be the best in the city. On the savory side, the Fried Farro with bacon, egg and Sriracha sauce is an unusually kicky dish that works. Regardless of what you order, a side of the house-cured bacon is a must. For a morning-time spin on your nighttime activities, try the London Mary, which replaces the vodka in a traditional Bloody Mary with pale ale.
Cliff’s Edge is hidden in plain sight on bustling Sunset Boulevard; it’s marked only by a sign pointing you to the parking lot. Follow that sign and you’ll soon find yourself walk ing thro ugh an enor mous castlelike door into a gorgeous, sun-drenched patio lined with bamboo and small palm trees—a garden oasis with a killer Mediterranean-influenced brunch menu. Here, the poached eggs are served with crab hash, and the Nutella-stuffed French toast arrives with a flaming brandy-soaked banana. Try the crepes with smoked salmon or Black Forest ham and eggs, and wash it down with mimosas, if you’re up for a glass or two.
BY TIEN NGUYEN
•
LATE-NIGHT NOSH
…and by late night, we mean early morning. Sometimes there’s nothing better than late-night spice, which explains why Thai Town’sRuen Pair (5257 Hollywood Blvd., 323.466.0153) is bustling right until it closes at 3 a.m. on the weekends. The Thai omelet, Pad Thai and pad kee mow comfort the soul, while the spicy red curry keeps you on your toes. 52
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SHAKE IT UP
Oblio's Established in 1884 as Schlitz Sample House, Oblio’s is home to Northeast Central Wisconsin’s largest draft, micro and import beer selection with 27 beers on tap. Visit us and try some of the greatest beers found anywhere in the world. 434 N. Main Street, Oshkosh WI 920.426.1063
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PAIRS: WINGS & BEER Ain’t no thing but our favorite wing and beer pairings.
SPICY ASIAN
& Hoegaarden In this globalinspired pair, a traditional Belgian witbier’s coriander and lemon draw out the wing’s ginger-and-redpepper sweetness, while refreshing, zippy wheat tames the sauce’s spice.
GARLIC PARMESAN
& Rio Grande Brewing Chili Cerveza
Spice things up Southwestern style: A chili beer brings on the heat, while its green pepper flavor is a perfect pard’ner to garlic and parmesan.
HONEY BARBECUE
& Widmer Brothers Pitch Black IPA
LEMON PEPPER
&
Boddington’s Pub Ale
Mild-mannered Boddy’s politely steps aside for the wing’s lemon and pepper flavors, but its hop bite and soft, creamy mouthfeel tidy up the palate.
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This wing’s tangy barbecue sauce gets fresh-off-the-grill credentials from a black IPA’s roasted notes, which emulate a charred flavor.
HOT
& Samuel Adams
Bonfire Rauchbier
With a mouthfeel thick enough to battle this wing’s blaze, this rauchbier’s smoky tones complement the heat to create a firestorm of flavor.
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
E I B O R N I V E K
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Á LA BEER: PANCAKES Eye-opening pancakes (and crepes!) get pumped up with a splash of beer.
Y E S D I H C N A G R O M
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OATMEAL PANCAKES WITH LA CHOUFFE SABAYON AND ORANGE MARMALADE SERVES 6 Chad Kelley’s no stranger to pairing beer with breakfast: At Dallas’ Meddlesome Moth, he serves brunch items like bacon waffles and pork-belly Benedicts alongside the gastropub’s 40 craft taps. Here, he tops hearty oatmeal pancakes with homemade orange marmalade and a frothy, faintly fruity La Chouffe sabayon. Make the marmalade ahead of time; it’ll keep in the pantry for a year. Orange Marmalade 1 pound oranges, sliced into half-wheels 1 / 4-inch thick and seeded 1 / 4 pound lemons, sliced into half-wheels 1 / 4-inch thick and seeded 8 cups water 31 / 2 cups white sugar 3 cups brown sugar • In a large stock pot, combine all ingredients and bring to a boil, stirring frequently to ensure the sugars don’t settle at the bottom of the pot and burn. • Let cook over a rapid boil for 30 minutes until firm. If the marmalade seems thin, continue to cook until it reduces; if it appears too hard, add more water. Let cool and store in sealed mason jars for up to a year.
Serve the extra La Chouffe sabayon over ice cream or pound cake
La Chouffe Sabayon 5 egg yolks 1 / 2 cup La Chouffe Blond Ale 4 tablespoons sugar • Boil a large pot of water over high heat. • Combine all ingredients in a large metal bowl. Set the bowl over the boiling water and whisk briskly, using a figure 8 pattern and spinning the bowl as you work. About every 40 seconds, remove the bowl from over the water to keep the eggs from scrambling. Whisk constantly until thickened and frothy, 4 to 5 minutes. Oatmeal Pancakes 1 / 2 cup all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 / 2 teaspoon salt 11 / 2 cup cooked oatmeal 2 eggs, beaten 1 / 2 cup milk 2 tablespoons plus additional butter, melted • In a large bowl, combine the flour, baking powder and salt. In a separate bowl, add the eggs, oatmeal, milk and melted butter; stir until combined. Stir the oatmeal mixture into the flour mix until the batter is well-combined. • Heat a griddle over medium heat and brush with additional melted butter. Working in batches, drop the pancake batter onto the hot griddle using about 1 / 3 cup of batter for each pancake. Cook until bubbles form, 1 to 2 minutes; flip, then cook 1 to 2 minutes more, until both sides of the pancakes are light golden brown. Keep covered until ready to serve, then top each serving with orange marmalade and La Chouffe Sabayon.
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SPENT GRAIN PANCAKES SERVES 10
Chef Eduardo Camarena of Flossmoor Station, an award-winning brewpub in suburban Chicago, works the brewery’s spent grain into pancakes spiked with vanilla and honey. (Score grain from a local brewery or a homebrewer friend; just be sure to press the grain in a mesh sieve to remove excess water before cooking.) Serve them sprinkled with chocolate chips, slathered in a berry compote or drizzled with old-fashioned maple syrup. 4 4 1 / 2 1 1 4 2 1 1 2
eggs cups buttermilk cup oil teaspoon vanilla ounce honey cups self-rising flour tablespoons sugar teaspoon baking soda teaspoon salt cups spent grain
• Heat a griddle over medium heat. • In a large bowl, beat together the eggs, buttermilk, oil, vanilla and honey. In a separate
bowl, combine the flour, sugar, baking soda and salt. Add the dry ingredients to the egg mixture 1 cup at a time, stirring until wellcombined. Add the spent grain, and stir until just incorporated into the batter. • Working in batches, drop the pancake batter onto the hot griddle using about 1 / 3 cup of batter for each pancake. Cook until bubbles form, 1 to 2 minutes; flip, then cook 1 to 2 minutes more, until both sides of the pancakes are light golden brown. Keep covered until ready to serve. CORNMEAL-IPA CREPES SERVES 4-6
At Skinny Pancake—a Montpelier, Vt., creperie with a small but serious beer list—chef Jeremy Silansky morphs his arsenal of crepe batters into canneloni, Thai “noodles,” and even fish ‘n’ chips. Here, he infuses a cornmeal crepe with the mega- hoppiness of Heady Topper DIPA from The Alchemy Pub & Brewery in nearby Waterbury (you can sub in your favorite imperial IPA): Stuff it with pulled pork, Cheddar and caramelized onions for a meaty meal that works for breakfast or lunch. 3 eggs 2 / 3
cup milk
11 / 4 cups plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 / 2 cup fine-ground cornmeal 1 teaspoons salt 11 / 2 sticks butter, melted 4 ounces imperial IPA
• In a large mixing bowl, combine the eggs and milk; using a mixer, mix on low speed with a whisk attachment until thoroughly combined. Add the flour and salt; mix until combined. • Scrape down the sides of the bowl, mix the batter at medium speed, and add the melted butter. • Add the beer and mix by hand until wellincorporated. Batter should be thin with no lumps; add more beer if needed. • Lightly oil a griddle or frying pan over medium heat. Making one crepe at a time, scoop about ¼ cup of the batter onto the griddle or pan; if using a pan, tilt it using a circular motion to coat the surface evenly. Cook about 2 minutes, until the bottom of the crepe is light brown. Loosen with a spatula, flip and cook the reverse side. • Place fillings in the center of the crepe. Fold the crepe in half, then in half once more to form a quarter-circle; let sit 2 to 3 minutes to allow the fillings to melt, and serve. Repeat with remaining batter.
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CHERRY PORTER PANCAKES SERVES 10 Every weekend, Chicago’s beer-loving breakfast-
eaters head to Revolution Brewing for chef Jason Petrie’s pancakes, loaded with the brew- ery’s Eugene porter. Petrie tops the warm cakes with a slice of cinnamon-cherry compound but- ter; a handful of chopped tart, unsweetened Michigan cherries; candied pecans; and a dust- ing of powdered sugar, and serves a dose of maple syrup on the side—though the pancakes are equally good crowned with fresh bananas and a drizzle of chocolate sauce. Porter Pancakes 3 cups all-purpose flour 1 / 3 cup sugar 1 teaspoon salt 1 / 2 tablespoon cinnamon 1 / 2 tablespoon baking powder 1 tablespoon baking soda 11 / 2 cups buttermilk 4 ounces Porter 3 eggs, lightly beaten 3 tablespoons butter, melted • In a large bowl, combine the flour, sugar, salt, cinnamon, baking powder and baking soda. Add the buttermilk, porter and eggs, and whisk until smooth. Whisk in the melted butter until the batter is well-combined.
• Heat a griddle over medium heat and brush with additional melted butter. Drop the pancake batter onto the hot griddle using about 1 / 3 cup of batter for each pancake. Cook until bubbles form, 1 to 2 minutes; flip, then cook 1 to 2 minutes more, until both sides of the pancakes are light golden brown. Keep covered until ready to serve. Top each serving with cinnamon-cherry compound butter, candied pecans, chopped cherries and powdered sugar, or your choice of toppings. Candied Pecans 1 pound pecan pieces 11 / 4 cup sugar 1 / 2 cup water 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 / 2 teaspoon nutmeg 1 / 2 teaspoon cayenne pepper 2 tablespoons salt • Preheat an oven to 350 F. Spread the pecan pieces on a baking sheet, and bake about 5 minutes, until the nuts are just toasted. • Cover a baking sheet with parchment paper, and lightly spray the paper with nonstick spray. • Combine the sugar and water in a large sauté pan. Turn on the heat to medium-high, and bring the mixture to a boil. Use a pastry brush dipped in water to frequently brush down the sides of the pan so sugar crystals don’t form.
Heat the mixture until it reaches 250 to 265 F (use a candy thermometer to monitor the temperature); the syrup should drip from a wooden spoon in thick threads. • Remove the pan from heat. Working quickly, add the nuts to the pan and stir to coat them with the syrup. Sprinkle on spices and stir to distribute evenly. Add salt and stir 1 minute more as the liquid begins to harden and nuts begin to separate. • Transfer to the prepared baking sheet, and spray the top of the nuts very lightly with nonstick spray. Break any large clusters of nuts, and let cool until warm to the touch. Serve warm, or refrigerate for up to a week. Cinnamon-Cherry Compound Butter 1 / 2 cup (1 stick) butter, softened 1 / 2 cup unsweetened cherries, softened and roughly chopped 1 tablespoon honey 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 / 2 teaspoon salt • Combine all ingredients in a medium glass bowl. Using the back of a fork, mash the ingredients together until well-combined. Spoon the butter onto a sheet of plastic wrap, roll into a log, and twist the ends; refrigerate until ready to use (up to 5 days), or freeze up to 1 month. Slice and use as needed. •
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One of the Premier Beer Events in Our Nation’s Capital!
Brewer’S Ball Mc 3, 2012 NatioNalS Park, StarS aNd StriPeS CluB
serving up hope, one pint at a time
Handcrafted microbrews from more than a dozen of the region’s best microbreweries
Great food from several popular restaurants (and we aren’t talking finger foods… we mean Braised Short Rib Sliders and a carving station!)
Live entertainment
A fantastic live and silent auction (Trips to Cabo and Europe; private brewery tours and much much more!)
Visit the website to view participating breweries and buy your tickets now!
Sold out the laSt 7 yearS!
www.dcbrewersball.org
Proceeds benefit the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation and our mission to cure and control cystic fibrosis and to improve the quality of life for those living with the disease.
IT TAKES A
V ILLAGE In a humble Argentine valley, a small band of bohemian brewers are quietly changing the national face of beer. BY NATE STOREY
M O C . E M I T S M A E R D | Z I V A J ©
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D
eep inside Argentina’s Patagonia—a windswept region of frosted peaks, massive glaciers, and crystalline rivers—undulating meadows of hops unfold around a glorified hippie commune in a valley sheltered by the hulking Mount Piltriquitrón. El Bolsón is an artisan outpost at the end of the Earth, where flower-power porteños went to find “free love” in the early 1970s. Its hippie roots are still evident at the weekly crafts markets, where longhaired townies hawk jams, produce, chocolates, fruits, trinkets and beer. Copious amounts of beer. Lagers. Ales. Raspberry-flavored brews. Chili-pepper pints. El Bolsón is where Argentina’s beer story begins, like Mendoza—its grape-shrouded counterpart to the north—is for wine. Argentina is a vino country. There’s no disputing that. Flagons of Malbec grace every dinner table and accompany any asado. But Patagonia has a rich beer tradition as well. Its roots trace back to the late 19th century, when a German named Otto Tipp popped over the border from Chile and taught locals how to cultivate hops. But it wasn’t until the early 1970s that anyone with a garage began churning out liters of beer by the caskload. The El Bolsón Regional Fair was conceived and quickly became a platform for neophyte beer makers to showcase their freshly brewed batches. Over the ensuing years, a few emerged as town staples, and to this day pour frothy mugs for natives and adventurists passing through this small town on the Pampas. The annual hops festival in February is a celebration of this legacy, drawing peripatetic beer mavens from across the globe. As beer goes, industry giants like Quilmes dominate the marketplace. Over the last decade, however, the winds of change have begun wafting microbrew into the country’s taps. Cervezas artesanales from diminutive breweries now stake shelf space at gastropubs in the Capital Federal. The conversation is changing. Quilmes’ rollout of new varieties like a stout, bock and red lager over the past few years is evidence enough that the brew behemoth doesn’t view the craft revolution as a fleeting trend. Argentines are displaying a more persnickety palate with their brewskis, and why not? A deluge of options is pouring onto the scene. What’s happening in the valleys of El Bolsón has been decades in the making, and its namesake brewery is leading the charge. The eponymous El Bolsón brewery is the largest purveyor of these craft suds, a hop shop that has emerged as the region’s most ubiquitous, reaching taps from Ushuaia to Buenos Aires to Tucumán. But while Cerveza El Bolsón may have the vastest reach, each and every one of the town’s 30plus breweries has a compelling story to tell. It’s difficult to walk two blocks in El Bolsón without stumbling across a brewing operation, makeshift or otherwise. There are a few bulwarks, though, that solidify the town’s bona fides. It’s only appropriate that the pioneer responsible for endowing Argentina with an alternative to the grape be honored with his own beverage. The mom-and-pop brewpub Otto Tipp does precisely that, paying homage to Mr. Tipp with six beers at its black-and-red chalet and pairing the draughts with fresh river trout dished out at the adjacent restaurant. Two blocks from the town center, passionate and humble Adolfo Acosta produces Araucana’s collection, like the revered cloudy blond ale, in a remodeled auto repair shop. Acosta has the ath63
Argentina’s hop-growing capital celebrates its bitter bounty with the El Bolsón Fiesta Nacional del Lúpulo, held every February in conjunction with the hop harvest. letic build of a hiker, short hair and a neatly kept graying beard. His brewery nonchalantly positioned off the shoulder of a dusty gravel road, Acosta’s ascendance from homebrewer to regional supplier has been nine years in th e making; a te stament to the creative spir it that chann els through El Bolsón’s veins. On the town’s southern outskirts, an amber wooden sign wedged between two narrow tree trunks points thirsty visitors in seek of a tipple down a road to nowhere. Cerveza Vikinga is run out of a tiny garage amid a cluster of pines. The husband-and-wife team behind the effort has been peddling their pale ale and stout at farmers markets since 2005. The ponytailed Gerardo has been honing his skills for 10 years out in the woods with his bohemian wife and their dog. They can be found doling out cold ones to hikers traversing the surrounding mountain trails or sightseers making a pitstop on their way to Parque Nacional Lago Puelo. The region is a cradle for these charming, hodgepodge breweries. But only Cerveza El Bolsón can claim to have made the leap from smalltown markets to big-city bars. The brand is the product of one man’s hobby, started for friends and fun in the early ’80s. Juan Carlos Bahlaj is a Ukrainian-born nomad whose campervan tour took him all over Europe and the Americas. A pudgy man with a scruffy Che Guevara beard, his globetrotting eventually landed him in El Bolsón after a stint in Buenos Aires as a window-and-door salesman. His salt-of-the-earth persona effortlessly meshed with his new surroundings and he soon took up the town trade. He didn’t know at the time that his affinity for beer-making would later birth Argentina’s first craft brewery in 1986. His family-owned operation grew into a national brewery by 1992 and, with his son Guillermo Bahlaj, a chemical engineer, running management, is thriving more than ever today. From his command post in the thin-aired Andes, Bahlaj creates 18 flavors sourced from local fruits (raspberries, cherries), vegetables (chili peppers), and even chocolate—all brewed with the immaculate water from surrounding rivers and lakes. He also dabbles in saving the world— as he sees it—by producing three gluten-free beers for people with Celiac disease. His cases and kegs ship to every corner o f the country. Businessmen sip them after work at beer halls in the capital. Farmers tip them back on their stoops in the northern jungles. Even Mendoza’s vintners pivot from their sumptuous reds when they need relief in the thick of the South American summer. Cerveza El Bolsón might not be a Quilmeskiller per se, but in concert with other budding microbreweries across the country, it’s giving Argentines a precious gift: options. On the northern edge of his hometown next to a rustic campsite, Bahlaj leads daily tours into his malting station, where guests can taste his collection directly from the maturation tanks. Revelers fill the indoor beer garden in the evenings as the sun creeps up the jagged 64
mountains outside the large windows, chomping on picadas and sausages bathed with housemade beer mustard. Times are good. Bahlaj claims he can’t make enough beer to keep up with demand. Cerveza El Bolsón’s story mirrors Argentina’s continuing beer evolution. Thanks to a bundle of ragtag brewers, an artsy mountain town abundant with hops meadows, and pioneers like Bahlaj, the progressive march forward seems keen to continue.
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3 ARGENTINE BEERS TO BUY HERE Jerome Cerveza Neg ra The only brewery in the Andes, Jerome exports crafts like this smooth stout.
Quilmes This lager’s ubiquitous in Argentina, and readily available across America.
Barba Roja Barrel Aged Red Ale This fruity, high-ABV ale hails from Buenos Aires.
E I B O R N I V E K : M O T T O B ; M O C . E M I T S M A E R D | 2 8 9 1 A E R D N A © : P O T
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
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#!∃!∀∃!∀! %∀!!∀% ∋∃!#∃&∀&∀ #!∀! %∀∋!!∀& ∃ Beer Revolution Oakland, Calif.
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Apex Portland, Ore.
• SERVES FOOD
APEX
Portland, Ore. Cruise down to bike-friendly Apex on your fixieand grab aseat at one of the many outdoor picnic tables: This is the perfect spot to people-watch Portland’s hipster class while sipping on something hoppy from the rightfully named Hopworks Urban Brewery. Plot your next pours with Apex’s sleek, real-time digital tap listing display, which showcases the bar’s thoughtfully compiled selection of 50 regional hop bombs and coveted brews from abroad. 1216 S.E. Division St., apexbar.com
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.................................................................. BAILEY’S TAPROOM
E I B O R N I V E K : E T I S O P P O
Portland, Ore. Bailey’s exposed brick, timber pillars and windowed exterior give this downtown corner bar a lived-in coziness beyond its four years. It’s not only the perfect location to unwind with Portland’s working stiffs (it opens at 4 p.m.), but also a one-stop pub for sampling the best of Oregon, from Oakshire’s single-batch brews on tap to a healthy collection of Hair of the
q POURS HOUSE BEER
Dog bottles. 213 S.W. Broadway, baileystaproom.com
P • .................................................................. BEER REVOLUTION
Oakland, Calif. This low-key hole-in-the-wall is reshaping Oakland with more than 40 incredible taps and a wall of beer fridges housing one of the best beer selections in the city. Grab a spot at a barrel table and strike up a conversation with fellow revolutionaries, or stop by on one of the many brewer nights for special tastings with craft beer luminaries. 464 Third St., beer-revolution.com
+ 400+ BEERS
PSELLS BEER TO GO b
Then, roll yourself over to the bottle shop for a bomber to go. 4500 S.E. Stark St., belmont-station.com
P+ • .................................................................. BEVERIDGE PLACE PUB
Seattle Comfy couches, borrowable books and chatty regulars make this sleepy West Seattle tavern more like a living room than a beer bar—but a phenomenal spread of Northwestern beers and bartenders who are generous with samples and hell-bent on finding something you like put Beveridge Place among the beer bar elite. 6413 California Ave. S.W., beveridgeplacepub.com
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• ..................................................................
BELMONT STATION
BLIND LADY ALE HOUSE
Portland, Ore. Bottle shop, biercafé and locally sourced cuisine: Belmont Station nails the beer geek/foodie trifecta. Nosh on corned beef with organic veggies and a helping of Oakshire’s Overcast Espresso Stout Ice Cream between sips of the neighborhood café’s cask-conditioned offering.
San Diego BLAH is one of those big, cheery places that takes its beer pretty darn seriously. Its state-of-the-art draft system guarantees only the freshest pours from each of the 26 thoughtfully selected taps, and all of the liquid is served up in the right glass. Go for a pint, but stay for a slice; the highly
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NEW TO OUR LIST
lauded pizza’s topped with organic ingredients from a local farm. Bonus: BLAH’s owners opened sister bar Tiger! Tiger! just across the freeway in the fall. 3416 Adams Ave., blindlady alehouse.com
• .................................................................. BLUE PALMS BREWHOUSE
Hollywood, Calif. This unlikely little spot next to the Henry Fonda Theater has inspired sausage (alligator and pork andouille, anyone?), but it’s really all about doing beer right: The bartenders are all super-knowledgeable, and the brews are served in correct glassware at proper temperatures. You’ll rarely find the same draft selection twice, and with consistent “tap takeovers” and a legion of beer fans parked on the barstools, there’s always a reason to come back. 6124 Hollywood Blvd., bluepalmsbrewhouse.com
q • .................................................................. THE DAILY PINT
Santa Monica, Calif. If you’re a jeans-and-T-shirt guy, pool shark, shuffleboard champ and foos67
Saraveza Portland, Ore.
ball fanatic, then you’re in the right place. But if you also happen to like beer, you’ve hit the jackpot. Daily Pint’s huge selection is “ever-rotating”: Just check out its Twitter account to see the latest local gems on the faucets, which include four cask engines. 2310 Pico Blvd., thedailypint.net .................................................................. DRAUGHT HOUSE PUB & BREWERY
Austin,Texas Forty-three years in, and this Texasbar-meets-Bavarian-looking-chalet is still pouring strong. With 70 taps, including a smattering of pretty darn good housemade beers, it’s got just about something for everyone. While the beer’s flowing over, so is the crowd, but that’s OK: You can grab a stool at the bar or at an outdoor pic-
nic bench; for a sure seat, bring your lawn chair and kick back in the parking lot. 4112 Medical Pkwy., draught house.com
q • .................................................................. FALLING ROCK TAP HOUSE
Denver The unofficial outpost for Great American Beer Fest goers, the dimly lit, wood-dressed Falling Rock is one of those places that everyone who knows about beer knows about. Seventy-five taps draw a serious selection of the best in the West and beyond; stop in for regular visits by brewers, who know that this is the place to celebrate their beer in Denver. 1919 Blake St., fallingrocktaphouse.com
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FATHER’S OFFIC E
Santa Monica, Calif. Open since 2000, Father’s Office is, for this city, an aging starlet, but in a Betty White sort of way. Yes, you’ll still wait shoulder-to-shoulder at the bustling long bar for your pint (36 taps and a super-knowledgeable staff make it worth your while); and yes, though the competition’s fierce, the Office Burger is still one of the best uses of beef in town. 1018 Montana Ave., fathersoffice.com
• .................................................................. FREAKIN’ FROG
Las Vegas No sequins or Bengal tigers in sight, but this off-off-the-strip bar’s 1,000 glorious bottles make it one of the best beer shows in the West. Owned by UNLV beer and wine lecturer Adam Carmer, this bar’s the perfect spot to study up on beer and whiskey, with the latter topping off at 800 selections. 4700 S. Maryland Pkwy., freakinfrog.com
+ • .................................................................. GREEN DRAGON
Tony’s Darts Away Burbank, Calif.
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Portland, Ore. Located on the fringe of Portland’s warehouse district, the urbanesque Green Dragon tempts patrons through its garage door entrance, and keeps them hanging around with more than 50 ever-rotating taps—probably none fresher than offerings from Buckman Botanical Brewery, a small-batch brewery set up inside the Dragon. From regular meet-the-brewer nights to the
annual Great American Nano Fest, this bar is one of the most craftbeer-centric venues you’ll ever find. 928 S.E. Ninth St.,pdxgreendragon.com
• .................................................................. HAMILTON’STAVERN
San Diego The oldest beer and wine bar in San Diego is one of the best: This classic alehouse is barn-big and doesn’t take itself too seriously, just lying low as a beloved neighborhood joint that honors its hometown with several of the 27 taps dedicated to SoCal favorites while the more than 200 bottles lean Belgian. The adjacent café serves tasty eats (don’t miss the grilled cheese), and two sister bars (Monkey Paw and Small Bar) let you keep your drinking in the family. 1521 30th St., hamiltonstavern.com
• .................................................................. HOPVINE PUB
Seattle
This quiet Capitol Hill bar is one of those spots that’s ideal to visit alone; you can talk shop with even-keeled staffers over a small-batch Hilliard’s saison from across town, or read a book at the counter with a schooner of Hale’s Supergoose. The small but wellcurated beer selection leans local and changes daily, but somehow, every pint goes with the superb seasonal meatloaf sandwich-and-soup combo. Watch for a cask on most Mondays. 507 15th Ave. E, 3pubs.com/hopvine
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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
HORSE BRASS PUB Portland, Ore. When founder Don Younger, who passed away last year, claimed, “If it were any more authentic, you’d need a passport,” he wasn’t kidding: Bric-abrac adorns the nicotine-stained walls (from the old smoking days) of this dimly lit, wood-paneled pub, perfectly re-creating the neighborhood haunts of England. Horse Brass has championed the craft beer movement since 1976, and with its legacy still intact as perhaps the best bar in the nation, it isn’t just a destination in Portland, but a bucket-list item for any beer lover. 4534 S.E. Belmont St., horsebrass.com
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HUMPY’S GREAT ALASKAN ALEHOUSE Anchorage, Alaska This iconic bar boasts a patio that breathes in gorgeous Alaska scenery and the largest selection of draft beer in the snowy state. Here, you can nosh on fresh-from-the-sea eats while lingering over a slew of local brews. If you’re less “tundra” and more“tropical,” there’s a sister spot a few thousand miles away, in Kona, Hawaii. 610 W. Sixth Ave., humpys.com
The Surly Goat Hollywood, Calif.
expanded in the fall, making more room on the soup/salad/sandwich menu—though you should still head straight for the crunchy-sour pickled hop shoots. 8564 Greenwood Ave. N., nakedcitybrewing.com
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LA TRAPPE CAFÉ San Francisco While there’s an upstairs bar, the dimly lit, intimate basement of this San Fran haunt is the best place to experience a taste of Belgium: 19 taps lean toward the motherland, with lovely choices from Cantillon and Affligem making frequent visits, while the twice-cooked frites are accompanied by your choice of 10 inspired dipping sauces. 800 Greenwich St., latrappecafe.com
O’BRIEN’S AMERICAN PUB San Diego The unadorned, “regular Joe” vibe is part of O’Brien’s charm, but you have only to look at the tap and bottle lists to know that this is no ordinary strip-mall dive. Owner Tom Nickel is a San Diego beer legend who draws local breweries to regularly unleash their latest smallbatch wonders on his taps and favorite patrons to hop off the barstools and follow him on his Belgian beer adventures. 4646 Convoy St., obrienspub.net
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THE MAYOR OF OLD TOWN Fort Collins, Colo. Fort Collins is famous for its homegrown crafts; now, The Mayor of Old Town ups the “beercentricity” with 100 globe-spanning taps, about 30 of which favor northern Colorado’s best. The selection rotates pretty rapidly, but fear not: Every time a new brew’s put on tap, the list automatically updates (presto!) on three enormous HD projection screens above the bar, and on the bar’s Twitter feed and Facebook page. 632 S. Mason St., themayorofoldtown.com
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NAKED CITY BREWERY & TAPHOUSE Seattle Naked City unselfishly turns the spotlight away from its own worthy beers and dedicates most of the nearly 30 taps to brews that give a lesson in current Northwestern beer—think brandnew Sound Monk’s Indiscretion and Seattle stalwart Big Al IPA. The kitchen
S T T O H S R E D N E H E H T
PAPAGO BREWING CO. Scottsdale, Ariz. Newly expanded Papago celebrated its 10-year anniversary this year by hosting Hoppegeddon, dedicating all 30 taps to stellar IPAs. One of the first bars in the Valley to embrace craft, it’s the place where die-hard locals, brewers passing through and a young crowd converge to share a pint. The tap selection is always tempting, but drink local and dip into the house brews. 7107 E. McDowell Rd., papagobrewing.com
qP •..................................................................
SARAVEZA Portland, Ore. Fresh-baked beef pasties, kitschy vintage beer decorations, the Packers on TV: Saraveza is a Midwesterner’s bar away from home. This quaint north west Portland pub may seem homely, but its nine taps and more than 200 bottles pack a big beer punch. Come on the second Monday of each month
for Free Bacon Night, when your beer’s paired alongside house-smoked pork. 1004 N. Killingsworth St., saraveza.com
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STUMBLING MONK Seattle Cavernous lighting and utterly bare décor don’t do this place justice; then again, the hipsters and beer geeks who fill the stools are too absorbed in their Duchesse de Bourgogne to care. A whiteboard seduces with a treasure trove of straight-from-Belgium saisons, lambics, dubbels and tripels, plus American-made homages to the Belgian greats—all priced to sell and served in proper glassware. It’s a raw, rare place for passionate drinkers. 1635 E. Olive Way, 206.860.0916 .................................................................. THE SURLY GOAT Hollywood, Calif. Sprung from the great minds behind legendary Verdugo, Surly Goat is a cool, dimly lit West Hollywood haunt where sometimes the music can get loud and sometimes the crowd can get thick. The 27 well-chosen taps give this place staying power, even if the beers themselves delightfully come and go as quickly as reality stardom. 7929 Santa Monica Blvd., surlygoat.com
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TONY’S DARTS AWAY Burbank, Calif. Tony’s Darts Away is just so California, and we’re not even talking about the 38 taps wholly dedicated to the best of Cali brew (though that certainly helps). Its environmentally friendly ethos hugs every part of the place, from tap-only beer, soda and wine (not a bottle or can in sight), recycled napkins and hyperlocal, Cali-sourced fare. 1710 W. Magnolia Blvd.,tonysda.com
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THE TRAPPIST Oakland, Calif. A slice of Belgium is tucked away in Oakland; this quaint hallway-esque bar has all the charm of an Old World café, with all the beer that makes its homeland the toast of connoisseurs. Find Belgian rarities on more than two dozen taps, served exactly as they are supposed to be (right down to the brewery’s own glassware), or linger over the impressive beer list that boasts more than 100 bottles. 460 Eighth St., thetrappist.com
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TASTE OF TOPS Tempe, Ariz. Phoenix’s swiftly escalating enthusiasm for craft beer is best observed at Taste of Tops, where 24 taps pour from around the world—if beers like Odell Hiveranno don’t do the trick, mosey over to the adjacent shop and choose from more than 1,000 bottles to pop open in the bar. Legendary beer characters like Fritz Maytag, Ken Grossman and Jake Leinenkugel have all tipped back beers here, proof that you should, too. 403 W. University Dr., topsliquors.com
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TORONADO San Francisco This crown jewel of American beer has been visited by every brewer you’ve heard of, and most of the guys seated at the bar, ogling the inimitable tap selection, are proudly wearing beer shirts. There are countless examples of what makes Toronado a pioneer, but we especially love that it’s hosted a Barleywine Festival for 18 years and been unwaveringly dedicated to quality craft before it was cool or profitable to do so. 547 Haight St., toronado.com
The beloved Flying Saucer Draught Emporium’s(beerknurd.com) empire stretches from Raleigh to San Antonio, with 15 locations and more than 240 beers at every one of them; the original still presides over Ft. Worth, Texas. Meanwhile, the original Ginger Man(gingermanpub.com) outpost in Houston just celebrated its 25th anniversary; there are five more in the Texas family, while a cousin location (gingerman-ny.com) whets palates in NYC. AnotherLone Star State favorite is LittleWoodrows(littlewoodrows.com), which boasts eight locations in Houston and Austin and more than 100 beers—or, as Woodrows puts it, “Mucho Cerveza, baby.” In the beery Northwest, the all-encompassing McMenamins has more than 50 incredible beer bars, plus its own breweries, winery, distillery and hotels. Cathedral-themed newbie chain Congregation Ale House(congregationalehouse.com) has three SoCal locations and a veritable Bible of beer for each; go during “mass” for happy hour specials.
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The Muddy Pig St. Paul, Minn.
• SERVES FOOD
ASHLEY’S
Ann Arbor, Mich. Since 1983, this classic U of M hangout has been as smart as the grad students who frequent it.The 70-plus taps reflect a vast beer landscape, pouring local favorites like Be ll’s Breakfast Stout, new releases like Left Hand Nitro Milk Stout and Belgian beauties like Tripel Karmeliet. 338 State St., ashleys.com
• .................................................................. BANGERS & LACE
Chicago Barely a year old, this Wicker Park lounge teeming with young, sudssavvy patrons jettisoned to the top of the Windy City beer scene with a 32beer tap list that not only hits trends (de la Senne Equinox, BrewDog/ Mikkeller collaborations), but starts them (France’s Pietra Colomba Chestnut). A sausage-laden menu— think rabbit links, veal brats and foie gras corn dogs—complements the beer beautifully. 1670 W. Division St., bangersandlacechicago.com
b • .................................................................. BOMB SHELTER
Milwaukee Only in Beer City does a bar proudly stick a Schlitz Gusto spout next to an O’so Dominator Doppelbock handle. This dive pays homage to Milwaukee’s storied brewing history with a solid collection of local breweriana, and 70
q POURS HOUSE BEER
carries the city’s tastes forward with more than 360 brews and a weekly beer-tasting club. 1517 S. Second St., bombshelterbar.com
b • .................................................................. BRIDGE
St. Louis A minimalist design concept starring warm wood and an eclectic collection of chandeliers and lamps sets an upscale tone and seals Bridge as one of the world’s prettiest places to drink. Two hundred worldly bottles and 55 Midwest-heavy taps give the place serious beer cred, and the elevated menu of cheese, charcuterie and creative snacks lets foodies play with pairings. 1004 Locust St., thebridgestl.com
P • .................................................................. BUCKEYE BEER ENGINE
Lakewood, Ohio This tried-and-true tavern gets better with age:The 200-plus beer list has grown in diversity (a zwickelbier on cask!), a sign this old haunt isn’t past its prime. A topnotch burger menu keeps things interesting with wacky specials like the Xmas Dinner: a patty piled high with ham and sweet potatoes. 15315 Madison Ave., buckeyebeerengine.com
qP • .................................................................. CRESCENT MOON ALE HOUSE
Omaha, Neb. The corner of 36th and Farnam streets (aka Beer Corner, U.S.A.)
+ 400+ BEERS
PSELLS BEER TO GO b
boasts a German beer hall, a Belgian tavern and a 600-bottle beer shop, but the crown jewel is the 50-tap Crescent Moon. The handles pour a little bit of everything: cask ales and nitro pulls, seasonals and regulars— and best of all, an excellent sampling of Nebraska’s notoriously limitedreach brews. 3578 Farnam St., beercornerusa.com
P+ • .................................................................. EL BAIT SHOP
Des Moines, Iowa Totally hodgepodge yet utterly homey, this mural-and-taxidermy-clad pub’s a place you can (and should) spend entire days in. More than 100 taps and just as many bottles make the place a beer oasis, but 26 bike racks and a working shower draw in a chill crowd of cyclists who don’t mind if you can’t tell a stout from a wit. 200 S.W. Second St., elbaitshop.com
P • .................................................................. THE FOUNDRY AT MCCOY’S
Kansas City, Mo. A handful of house-made session brews joins a wh o’s-who list of g lobal artisan beers; they show up in pints as well as flights and quirky beer cocktails. The clean, retro-modernstyled setting makes a nice departure from the beer-signed and Belgianinspired haunts you’re used to. 424 Westport Rd., foundrykc.com
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NEW TO OUR LIST
THE HAPPY GNOME
St. Paul, Minn. Regardless of your stature, you will indeed be happy at this former firehouse that now herds about 475 American craft beers and global delicacies. Exclusive pours, beer dinners and regular drop-ins by big-name brewers put the Gnome in the upper echelon of beer bars, but an energetic patio and chatty Midwesterners make the place feel like home. 498 Selby Ave., thehappygnome.com
+ • .................................................................. HEOROT
Muncie, Ind. Valhalla exists in the middle of Muncie, where this low-lit, Viking-inspired pub boasts one of the worl d’s greatest collections of beer, period. Scaldis Prestige, Viking Blod mead, multiple batches of BrewDog’s Paradox beers— they’re all there with a few hundred top-shelf friends that together make the middle of Indiana a serious beer destination. 219 S. Walnut, 765.287.0173
+P • .................................................................. HOPCAT
Grand Rapids, Mich. Never has a beer bar with so many offerings (about 200 here) been so unpretentious. Sure, the lineup’s stellar—think brand-new Greenbush brews on tap and bottles the likes of Norway’s HaandBryggeriet Dark
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
Force—but beer dinners, group trips to area beerfests, Sunday jazz jams and a dog-friendly patio make it clear the place puts community before snobbery. 25 Ionia Ave.S.W., hopcatgr.com
qP • .................................................................. INTERNATIONAL TAP HOUSE
St. Louis I-Tap’s Soulard location’s an ideal library for beer tickers: 40-plus taps and more than 500 bottles collect of-theminute releases (Boulevard Tank 7 Saison) and the so-new-you’ve-neverheard-of-it stuff (Charleville Hoptimistic), plus all the classics you can think of. The bar’s Passport Program helps drinkers keep track of what they’vesipped, and throws a party when they hit the 500-beer mark. 1711 S. 9th St., internationaltaphouse.com
P + .................................................................. LA CAVE DU VIN
Cleveland Heights, Ohio This dark basement beer bar’s a stop on every brewer’s itinerary, so the taps are always spilling limited editions and rarities. Cellarmasters, take note: La Cave’s got an impressive vintage list that runs deep; visit often to make sure you’re there when the management decides to dip into the archives. 2785 Euclid Heights Blvd., lacaveduvin.com
• .................................................................. LOCAL OPTION
Chicago Each year, this hard-edged bar gets geekier, and proudly so. Thirty taps round up some of the world’s strongest, from a 10.5%-ABV Struise St. Amatus 12 to a nearly 12% De Molen Hel & Verdoemenis. (The selection’s balanced by a wide-reaching bottle list and DAB tallboys.) Po’ boys and tacos give the hard crowd a base for all that booze. 1102 W. Webster Ave., local optionbier.com
q • .................................................................. MAP ROOM
Chicago Billed as a traveler’s tavern, the Magellan of beer bars warns patrons “don’t be lost”—but you never will be, even among more than 200 global brews; bar manager Jay Jankowski (a certified Cicerone) makes sure of that. An exploration theme keeps the small bar worldly, and the mind-
blowing selection (De Struise Pannepeut on tap, Three Floyds Zombie Dust on cask) keeps it worldclass. 1949 N. Hoyne Ave., maproom.com .................................................................. MCNULTY’S BIER MARKT
Cleveland, Ohio Belgian and Belgian-inspired brews remain the focus of this sleek, barebulbed bar, but the 20 taps also serve to test-drive beers from owner Sam McNulty’s Market Garden Brewery across the street. The crowd’s young and cool, the bottle list is long, and the prices are on point: $24 for a 10-beer sampler? Yes, please. 1948 W. 25th St., bier-markt.com
P • .................................................................. MICHAEL & LOUISE’S HOPLEAF BAR
Chicago A $1.4 million expansion (the paint’s still wet) doubled the space and added 20 taps to this Chicago icon—although how a tap list that already includes Goose Island Green Line and Dilewyns Vicardin Tripel Gueuze can be improved is beyond us. The kitchen’s bigger, too, which means more elbow room for chef Ben Sheagren and his outstanding Belgian cuisine. 5148 N. Clark St., hopleaf.com
• .................................................................. THE MITTEN BAR
Ludington, Mich. By dedicating its beer list solely to Michigan-made brew, The Mitten Bar (named for the shape of its home state) has single-handedly developed an area culture centered on drinking local, all before its first birthday. And with New Holland firkins, Short’s special releases and mug-club-membersonly locavore dinners, it’s an easy movement to get behind. 109 W. Ludington Ave., mittenbar.com
b • .................................................................. MONK’S HOUSE OF ALE REPUTE
Sioux Falls, S.D. More than 200 bottles and 40-plus taps ranging from South Dakota’s Crow Peak to Norway’s HaandBryggeriet is a windfall anywhere, but in the middle of the Great Plains, it’s a godsend. A cozy fireplace and comfy couches make it the ultimate spot to wile away the winter. 420 E. Eighth St., monkshouseofalerepute.com
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Bangers & Lace Chicago THE MUDDY PIG
St. Paul, Minn. A stop on every brewer’s trip to the Twin Cities—not just for the expertly pared-down selection of about 100 Belgian-leaning brews priced to sell, but for the easygoing, board-gameplaying crowd of beer hobbyists that fill the friendly little dive. 162 Dale St., muddypig.com
• .................................................................. PALM TAVERN
Milwaukee More than 250 of the world’s best artisan beers and an intimate setting that lets you discuss them in-depth are draws enough for beer lovers—but all a true geek needs to know is that Palm Tavern was the only Wisconsin bar to score a keg of Founders Canadian BreakfastStout. 2989 S. Kinnickinnic Ave., 414.744.0393 .................................................................. ROMANS’ PUB
Milwaukee Surly beer geeks will find a friend in owner Mike Romans, who skips the frills and funny business and focuses squarely on tapping good beer (and cellaring some, too). The bar’s lined with working-men regulars whose after-5 beer just happens to be a local gem like New Glarus Chocolate Abbey Ale. 3475 S. Kinnickinnic Ave., romanspub.com .................................................................. ROYAL MILE
Des Moines, Iowa At streetlevel, the Royal Mile’s the spit-
ting image of a British-born pub, with firkins full of Scotch ale and English pork pie; upstairs, the bar goes Belgian with 90 Belgo brews and abbey-style stained glass windows to match. Geeks and novices alike will appreciate the bar’s thorough digital beer library— photos, stats and descriptions for every beer served—visible on Royal Mile’s website and touchscreen ordering system. 210 Fourth St., royalmilebar.com
P • .................................................................. SHEFFIELD’S BEER & WINE GARDEN
Chicago At this Chicago institution, young Lakeview patrons tailor their drinking seasonally: On a humid summer day, it’s pitchers of Half Acre Daisy Cutter in the beer garden; come winter, it’s a bomber in the cozy front bar. The rest of the year, finger-licking barbecue and brewery nights (North Coast beer and slider pairing, anyone?) keep the crowd coming back. 3258 N. Sheffield Ave., sheffieldschicago.com
• .................................................................. SUGAR MAPLE
Milwaukee Rebelling against its worldly sister bar, Palm Tavern, Sugar Maple pours strictly American-brewed craft: 60 on tap, and heavy on Wisconsin brews. The clean, modern environs host weekly local music acts, and a cool crowd of beer-smart Bayview regulars each night. 441 E. Lincoln Ave., mysugarmaple.com
•
International Tap House St. Louis
Aside from hugebeer lists at 14 locations throughout Ohio, Winking Lizard Tavern’s(winkinglizard.com) claim to fame is its World Tour of Beers; drink 100 brews from the chosen 250 and earn the coveted World Tour jacket.Beer Sellar’s (beersellar.net ) Indianapolis and Cincinnati locations (plus a Nashville outpost) each boast more than 100 bottles and 50 taps and pour the best of the Midwest, including top-shelf pours like Boulevard No. 2 White IPA. 71
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• SERVES FOOD
THE ARMSBY ABBEY
Worcester, Mass. A lengthy beer list is always impressive, but Armsby Abbey’s collection of bottles is a beer nerd’s wet dream. BrewDog Tactical Nuclear Penguin, Girardin Gueuze 1882 Black Label, Avery Dépuceleuse, Dogfish Head World Wide Stout 2008—the selection rivals even the rarest of rare beer festivals. 144 Main St., armsbyabbey.com
b • .................................................................. BEER TABLE
Brooklyn, N.Y. Proprietors Justin and Tricia Philips operate this tiny establishment with the care a couple gives their newborn. The rare beers such as BFM Abbaye de St. Bon Chien and Hitachino Commemorative Ale Zymatore, along with a selection of cellared brews, change daily; there’s always pairing fodder for impeccable fare like butterbean stew with bacon, scallions and mayonnaise, or pickled peanuts with red chilies and chives. 427B Seventh Ave., beertable.com
• .................................................................. BIER BARON
Washington, D.C. Formerly the famous Brickskeller, this bar’s ownership may have changed hands last year, but the vast beer selection (50 taps and roughly 500 bottles) remains the same. Located in
q POURS HOUSE BEER
the heart of Dupont Circle, this bilevel bar offers a world tour of beer, but you’ll always find a healthy selection of seasonal and local pours. Hint: Book a room in the Bier Baron lodge upstairs, and last call i s just a few steps away from your bed. 1523 22nd St. N.W., bierbarondc.com
+ • .................................................................. BLIND TIGER
New York One of New York’s first beer bars (named after a synonym for “speakeasy”) remains one of its best. The West Village spot is packed with everyone from NYU students and businessmen to tourists and beer geeks, but it’s worth the fight to get at one of the best-curated lists in the city. 281 BleeckerSt.,blindtigeralehouse.com
P • .................................................................. THE BREWER’S ART
Baltimore From the award-winning house beers brewed on-premises to the phenomenal guest beer list, everything you’ve heard about The Brewer’s Art is true—but you have to go there to really fall in love with it. Located inside a Baltimore townhouse, drinking here is like imbibing inside an eccentric millionaire’s front room: The bar’s situated in front of a fireplace, and home-cooked fare like Chipotle Mac-n-Cheese is rib-stick-
+ 400+ BEERS
PSELLS BEER TO GO b
ingly delicious. 1106 N. Charles St., thebrewersart.com
DEEP ELLUM
q • .................................................................. BUKOWSKI TAVERN
Boston Don’t expect to be coddled at this cash-only, hard-nosed watering hole. Like its namesake, this tavern is rough around the edges (the food menu reads “Today’s fucking specials”), but that’s part of its charm. Tip back The Buk, the house pale ale, then work your way through the locally minded 20 taps and cask. If you drink 120 different beers in six months, you win a spot in the Mug Club—but chances are, no one’s going to be impressed. 50 Dalton St., bukowskitavern.net
qb • .................................................................. CHURCHKEY
Washington, D.C. Without a doubt, the chic Churchkey is the capital’s premier location for beer. About 50 taps pour local and nationwide favorites, and 500 world wide bottles are divided by style into three coolers, each set at different temperatures. Come with an appetite: Churchkey sits above the renown Birch & Barley gastropub, so upscalecasual fare like fig-prosciutto flatbreads is just an order away. 1337 14th St. NW, churchkeydc.com
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NEW TO OUR LIST
Allston, Mass. Across from Allston’s Union Square Plaza sits Deep Ellum, a quaint watering hole that washes down its throwbackmeets-steampunk décor with 28 wellcurated taps and one cask spotlighting the best local brews. From proper glass ware and a knowledgeable staff down to the housemade sausages, this quiet pub pays close attention to detail. 477 Cambridge St., deepellum-boston.com
• .................................................................. EARL’S BEER AND CHEESE
New York A simple premise: four carefully selected new drafts a night paired with less than 10 cheese-based entrees. The execution: the type of perfection you’d expect from a chef who previously served on the USS George H.W. Bush. 1259 Park Ave., earlsny.com
Pb • .................................................................. EBENEZER’S PUB
Lovell, Maine Ebenezer’s stocks a gigantic number of beers—we’re talking more than 700 bottles. Yet the number isn’t as staggering as the selection: A comprehensive list of abbey ales shares space with more than 20 gueuzes and lambics, while vintages like 2006 Gouden Carolus Cuvee de Keizer add extra cause for excitement. 44 Allen Rd., ebenezerspub.net
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Max’s Taphouse Baltimore, Md.
72
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
EULOGY BELGIAN TAVERN
Philadelphia A stone’s throw from Independence Hall, Eulogy is an undisputed hub for Belgian beer in Philly’s Old City. Navigate 21 taps and more than 300 bottles, or let the friendly staff and regulars guide you in the right direction— order a Dock Street Belgian Cowboy Saison and a steaming pot of mussels, and you’ll fit right in. 136 Chestnut St., eulogybar.com
• .................................................................. THE FARMHOUSE
Emmaus, Pa. The Farmhouse’s 19th-century farmhouse setting is utterly vintage, and so is the beer: Inside this English-style pub you’ll find Anchor Our Special Ale dating back to 1992, a Sierra Nevada Bigfoot vertical starting in 1988 and J.W. Lees Vintage Harvest Ales dating back even further. 1449 Chestnut St., thefarmhouse.com
P • .................................................................. THE GREAT LOST BEAR
Portland, Maine Not many bars can claim a more thoughtfully designed tap list than this 30-plus-year-old institution with four cask-conditioned pours, a revolving list of Belgian and extreme beers, old favorites like Shipyard Export Ale, and a slew of taps in “Allagash Alley,” a set of faucets dedicated to the brewery’s rarer offerings. From day one, this bar promoted locally crafted beer, and with roughly 75 percent of its 60-plus taps dedicated to regional breweries, it remains the most loyal pub around. 540 Forest Ave.,greatlostbear.com
P • .................................................................. THE GREY LODGE PUBLIC HOUSE
Philadelphia Far from the downtown bustle, this northeast Philly bar’s ’50s Elks Lodge vibe feels like your grandfather’s dive, but its beer selection is of the moment. If you’re an out-of-towner, stick with local taps like Victory Village—that, plus the inevitable conversation you’re bound to fall into with the regulars gives the out-of-the-way Lodge its charm, whether you’re imbibing in its first- or second-floor bar. 6235 Frankford Ave., greylodge.com
• .................................................................. LYON HALL
Arlington,Va. This swanky bar serves serious French cuisine, but it’s still the epitome of cool: Its intimate atmosphere’s scored with a hipster soundtrack, its bartenders have a passion for of-the-moment beer, and no one will care if you drink your 21st Amendment Back in Black straight from the can. 3100 N. Washington Blvd., lyonhallarlington.com
•b
From day one, The Great Lost Bear promoted locally crafted beer; with most of its 60 taps dedicated to regional breweries, the 30-plus-yearold bar remains the most loyal pub around. The Great Lost Bear Portland, Maine
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MAX’S TAPHOUSE Baltimore At first glance, this Inner Harbor bar may seem like a place to toss back shots, but beer nerds take note: Roughly 150 taps (including 5 casks) and more than 1,000 bottles give this spot serious beer cred. Max’s sits on the convergence of all bar cultures: good beer, sports, games, music and, yes, shots, making it the perfect place for craft-minded people to let loose without sacrificing selection. 737 S. Broadway St., maxs.com
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MEMPHIS TAPROOM Philadelphia Hidden deep within a classic Philly working-classneighborhood, Memphis Taproom’s an oasis from the light lagers at nearby dives. The tap list is short, but the choices are phenomenal (Pliny the Elder’s been spotted next to Port Old Viscosity on cask); an equallythoughtful selection of nearly 100 bottles rounds out the list. 2331E. Cumberland St., memphistaproom.com
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THE MOAN AND DOVE Amherst, Mass. Every college town has one great bar, and in Amherst, it’s the Moan and Dove. From tap to bottle, this college hangout takes an even-keeled approach to curating its comprehensive list: On tap, local session beers are as prevalent as West Coast hop bombs, while its Belgian-style quad list is as long as its roster of IPAs. 460 West St., moananddove.com .................................................................. MONK’S CAFÉ Philadelphia Monk’s Café’s place in the upper echelon of watering holes is well-deserved. Its Beer Bible, which covers style
guidelines, brewing 101 and an in toxicating list of more than 300 beers, acts as a visitor’s guide for patrons packed into the venue’s two intimate bars. The selection makes ordering tough; have a pint of the house brew Monk’s Café Flemish Sour Red and a pot of award winning mussels while you sift through the list. 264 S. 16th St., monkscafe.com
with RnH suggestions, a list of alternatives to the big brands. There’s also the Brewers Wall of Fame, where visiting craft brewers sign their names, and maps on the wall with flags marking brewery locations. If you can, go before the end of the workday and snag a corner of the communal tables. 14 E. 33rd St., rattlenhumbarnyc.com
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NOVARE RES BIER CAFÉ Portland, Maine Ever find yourself choosing between a night at an English-style pub, German beer hall or Belgian café? At Novare Res, you get three in one trip. Here, you’ll find no fewer than 13 Cantillon labels, rauch and altbiers, and a lengthy list of English-style barley wines—plus delicious culture clashes like the Novare Belgian Waffles with Young’s Chocolate Stout ice cream. 4 Canal Plaza, novareresbiercafe.com
SPUYTEN DUYVIL Brooklyn, N.Y. What this narrow, tin-ceilinged Williamsburg staple lacks in number of draft lines, it makes up for in the rapid rotation of taps. (A bottle list numbering around 150 doesn’t hurt, either.) The narrow main room gets packed with crafties seeking a new beer, but come summer, the large, Christmas-light-strewn backyard might be the happiest place on Earth. 359 Metropolitan Ave., spuytenduyvilnyc.com
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THE PUBLICK HOUSE Brookline, Mass. With a highbrow lineup and casual décor (think abbey furnishings and gnome figurines), here, you’re just as likely to sit next to a doctor as you are a college student. Thirty-four taps pouring the best Belgian selection in town are split between “Here” (Belgianstyle) and “There” (actually Belgian), while a stunning bottle list with no fewer than six Flanders reds is droolinducing. 1648 Beacon St., eatgood fooddrinkbetterbeer.com
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RATTLE N HUM New York This Midtown spot features a brew for everyone, and educates the suited masses who pull up to the long bar
STANDARD TAP Philadelphia If you’re looking to confirm the hype over Philly beer, head to Standard Tap, where 20 spigots (including two casks) pour only local beer. Study the chalkboard for what’s pouring, but don’t overlook the bar’s endearing décor, from its old-timey tin ceiling to its
1950s-style kegerator behind the bar. 901 N. Second St., standardtap.com
•.................................................................. SUNSET GRILL & TAP Allston, Mass. Nowhere else can a drinker find a selection so rife with rauchbiers, eisbocks, gluten-frees, steam beers and 30 meads alongside en vogue styles and seasonals. This laid-back college hangout may have a casual sports bar atmosphere, but the beer is serious business: A strict 13-day keg rotation policy guarantees your draft beer’s always fresh—all 112 of them. 130 Brighton Ave., allstonsfinest.com
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THREE PENNY TAPROOM Montpelier,Vt. Vermont’s premier beer bar may reside in the U.S.’s smallest capital city, but its passion for craft is colossal. Sip on a Farnum Hill cider or take a draw from The Alchemist Heady Topper tap, delivered fresh every week, while nibbling on rustic small plate items like horseradish pickled beets. While the beer and food is decidedly of the moment, the storefront bar’s checkered floor, soda shop stools and tin ceiling inspire a trip through time. 108 Main St., three pennytaproom.com
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Virginia powerhouse Capital Alehouse (capitalalehouse.com) opened its fifth location in Harrisonburg last year; each spot features at least 6 0 taps, 250 bottles and 2 casks. Up in Pennsylvania, Sharp Edge (sharpedgebeer.com) now mans three taverns and three bistros. The taps are heavily Belgian, but before diving into Petrus, Piraat and Silly, sip on Over the Edge, the house triple IPA made for the bar by Belgium’s Brouwerij Van Steenberge. In Philly, Tria (triacafe.com) rounds up the best of local brew and schools drinkers on beer, wine and cheese at its three bars and Fermentation School.
Blind Tiger New York City
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JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2011 DRAFT
Busy Bee Raleigh, N.C.
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SERVES FOOD
THE AVENUE PUB New Orleans This rickety, two-story Garden District house is a true NOLA find. Nearly 50 of the city’s finest taps from Lazy Magnolia to Hopfenstark Berlinerweiss are running 24/7; come in on Firkin Fridays, sit on the balcony and kick back with gems like Brooklyn Pennant on cask. 1732 St. Charles Ave., avenuepub.com
•
.................................................................. BREWMASTERS BAR & GRILL Raleigh, N.C. Brewmasters knows how to keep the party alive, from discounted canned beers on Mondays to make-your-own beer flights on Wednesdays. And it’s not just about the pros:Wednesday’s Homebrew Humpday features pours from local homebrewers. Of course, if you’re just looking for a pint,this joint has them in spades—its 66 taps (four on nitro) spotlight the best brews North Carolina has to offer. 301 W. Martin St., brewmastersbarandgrill.com
•b
.................................................................. BRICK STORE PUB Atlanta The patriarch of Southern beer bars proved it still has swagger when it unleashed a menu of 200 vintage bottles
q POURS HOUSE BEER
in fall; add to that nearly 20 beauties on tap, a couple hundred bottles and a handful of heavy-hitters in the separate Belgian Bar, and there’s no shaking this neighborly powerhouse from the top. 125 E. Court Sq., brickstorepub.com
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.................................................................. BUSY BEE CAFÉ Raleigh, N.C. What makes the Bee so great?We could say it’s the perfectly curated 15 taps split between two bars, its lengthy bottled sour list or its website’s homebrewer interview series. But what really puts it over the top is the bar’s barrel program: The owners donate barrels to local breweries, who then age their beer and sell it back to the bar. 225 S. Wilmington St., busybeeraleigh.com
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.................................................................. CLOSED FOR BUSINESS Charleston, S.C. Closed For Business opened in 2009, but the warm pub feels like Southern beerophiles have been burrowing there for decades. Forty-two taps hit all the right notes, and provide a home base for local breweries like Palmetto, Holy City and Westbrook. 453 King St., closed4business.com
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DRAFT JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012
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400+ BEERS
PSELLS BEER TO GO b
GROWLERS POURHOUSE Charlotte, N.C. It’s easy to see why Growlers has become a hit with locals in just two short years. Craft beer shines in its modest dozen tap list—don’t miss offerings from local NoDa brewing— while enlightened bar fare, like homemade sausage, inspires the perfect pairing. Come for a pint and leave with an education during its regular classes, which teach everything from making cranberry beer sauce to breaking down smoked beers. 3120 N. Davidson St., growlerspourhouse.com
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.................................................................. HARRIKA’S BREW HAUS Swansboro, N.C. This quaint store-and-bar combo’s something you’ll only find in a small vacation town: It’s located in a seaside beach house, surrounded by a lawn peppered with art installations, and the beer selection, including the store, tops 300 varieties. Come for a game of chess and $9 patio pitcher, or grab a mixed sixer, beer soap and soothing teas to enhance your beachbum bliss. 911 Cedar Point Blvd., teaandbeer.com
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NEW TO OUR LIST
HOLY GRALE Louisville, Ky. Local bottle-shop owners Lori Beck and Tyler Trotter shook up Louisville’s sleepy beer scene when they opened Holy Grale last year, and hooked up 20 taps to stuff you’ve always wished you could try (Goose Island Pepe Nero, Three Floyds Broodoo) and pours you’ve never heard of (Alvinne Kerasus). Genius takes on traditional pub grub—think Scotch Kentucky Quail eggs covered in farm-fresh bratwurst—always manage to lure you away from a totally liquid lunch. 1034 Bardstown Rd., holygralelouisville.com
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.................................................................. THE J. CLYDE HOT ROCK TAVERN AND ALEHOUSE Birmingham, Ala. Alabama’s emerging beer scene can largely be attributed to the liquid education this stalwart provides in the form of beer dinners, firkin Fridays and a simply stellar global tap list. Don’t be surpr ised to see Italy’s Almond ’22 Pink IPA alongside pours from Alabama’s Good People Brewing and Straight to Ale. 1312 Cobb Ln., jclyde.com
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More than a few Yankees show up on The Porter’s 30 taps, but rare Southern belles prove Georgia’s got more than peaches.
The Porter Beer Bar Atlanta.
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MR. BEERY’S Sarasota, Fla. Less than two years old, Mr. Beery’s is already getting some serious buzz. Not only is the 24-tap selection applause worthy (and matchedby a bottle selection peppered with seasonals, one-offs and rarities), but this place is genuinely dedicated to spreading the good word about craft beer. Attend Beer School and learn how to do your own beer pairings with everything from grilledcheese to sausage, or bring your best bottle and share it during Tuesday night’s Show and Tell. 2645 Mall Dr., mrbeeryssrq.com
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THE NOOK Huntsville, Ala. “Epic” is the only way to describe the beer selection at the Nook, with roughly 50 beers on tap and more than 300 in the bottle. Rare vintages like Gales Prize Old Ale 1996 and J.W. Lees Harvest Ale 2001 tempt the wallet, while Lazy Magnolia Southern Pecan Nut Brown Ale delivers a taste of the South on draft. 3305 Bob Wallace Ave., thenooktavern.com
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OLDSMAR TAPHOUSE Oldsmar, Fla. This is a classic beer joint with a wooden bar, a top-notch 40-tap selection scrawled on a chalkboard, jam-packed fridges and no blaring TVs to distract you from the task at hand. Grab a cheese-and-cracker plate and get to know your neighbors at this beer-geek haunt. 300 State St., E #107, oldsmar taphouse.com
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THE PORTER BEER BAR Atlanta More than a few Yankees show up on this vintagey bar’s 30 taps, but rare Southern belles (think casked Terrapin one-offs) prove Georgia’s got more than peaches. The flavor-minded staff uses the 500 beers and chef Nick Rutherford’s impromptu seasonal specials to dream up dead-on pairing suggestions. 1156 Euclid Ave., theporterbeerbar.com
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RALEIGH TIMES BAR Raleigh, N.C. Located inside the century-old former home of the now-defunct Raleigh Times , this swank Belgian-style beer
bar is the place for rare beer in downtown Raleigh. Hard-to-find bottles like Hanssens Experimental Cassis share equal billing with the bar’s “All things sour, funky and wild” category, while local offerings from Big Boss and Foothills pepper the draft lineup. And like the paper before it, this bar’s got some pull: It recently tapped North Carolina’s only keg of Avery Wet Hop Pale Ale. 14 E. Hargett St., raleigh timesbar.com
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REDLIGHT, REDLIGHT Orlando, Fla. This concrete dive is a Magic Kingdom in its own way: Educated bartenders, two casks and a separate menu dedicated to vintage brew are highlights. Grab a bottle from the fridge to go, but not before stopping at the food trucks that roll by on the weekends. 745 Bennett Rd., redlightredlightbeerparlour.com
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SERGIO’S WORLD BEERS Louisville, Ky. Withmore than 1,300 bottles and about 40 taps, Sergio’s does indeed navigate the world by the glass. The place ain’t fancy, but its sheer dedication to beer— marked by frequent brewery nights, beer dinners and the opportunity to reserve rare releases—makes it an icon. 1605 Story Ave., sergiosworldbeers.com
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THE STEM & STEIN Madison, Ala. Like the name suggests, wine and beer share equal billing here, a feat considering the gargantuan selection of each. Brews from around the world flow out of the bar’s 11 taps—which is an essential first stop when you’re considering what to purchase from the more than 250-bottle selection. Visit each Friday for special beer tastings, or strike out on your own to discover your next favorite IPA. 10871 County Line Rd., Suite B, thestemandstein.com
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TAPWERKS ALEHOUSE & CAFÉ Oklahoma City, Okla. Located in the heart of Oklahoma City’s Brickyard entertainment district, Tapwerks is the undisputed hub for beer, with more than 200 taps and 100 bottles. Stop here for local pints from Choc and COOP, or drink your way through the Old World with two pages
Redlight, Redlight Orlando, Fla.
of Belgians. Bookend your night with stops here—you’re just a few blocks away from restaurants, Oklahoma City Thunder basketball and concerts at the Cox Convention Center. 121 E. Sheridan Ave., tapwerks.com
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THIRSTY MONK Asheville, N.C. Depending on your mood, sip from the likes of Lamme Goedzak downstairs or Abita Imperial Oyster Stout at the upstairs bar. An exhaustive bottle list includes everything from glutenfree to cider to rare vintages (like Stone Vertical Epic Series 06.06.06), making this the premier watering hole in a city once voted Beertown, U.S.A. 92 Patton Ave., monkpub.com
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TRAPPEZE PUB
2 2 2 O I D U T S : P O T
The Avenue Pub New Orleans
DRAFT JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012
Athens, Ga. Sunny and slathered in orange paint, Trappeze is a cheery little spot with bigtime beers not usually seen in these parts—Left Hand Nitro Milk Stout included. The roughly 30 taps and 200 bottles (all helpfully divvied up into style categories) make delicious complements to the savory tart that changes daily. 269 N. Hull St., trappezepub.com
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The South’s biggest beer-bar empire is the 29-location Taco Mac (tacomac.com) ; most pour from at least 100 taps and even more bottles, but all help patrons navigate their famous Buffalo wing menu and the frequent-drinker Brewniversity program. In Florida, 15 Worldof Beer(wobusa.com) outposts pair nearly 500 beers with a strong live music program that lures local and national acts. Also in the sunshine state, Dunedin House of Beer(dunedinhob.com), founded by two homebrewers in 2009, is now up to three locales boasting 40 craft taps. The multitap, cafélike Tyler’s Taproom(tylerstaproom.com) grew its North Carolina family to four with a new Raleigh location last year; mean while,James E. McNellie’s Public House (mcnellies.com) has already solidified its place as Oklahoma’s favorite beer bar, with three spots serving 350-plus beers, including the sessionable McNellie’s Pub Ale, a bitter crafted for the bar by nearby Marshall Brewing.
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REVIEWS WO O D- AGE D B E ER S • IMPERIAL IPAS • STRONG SCOTCH ALES • W H EAT W IN ES S M O K E D P O R T E R S • A ME R IC A N A MB E R S • BLACK IPAS
DRAFT PICK:
FUNKWERKS TROPIC KING
T
raditionally speaking, the saison is an elusive style. Brewed on farms in Belgium’s Wallonia region for the summer season, these beers merged utility with terroir: Low ABVs and mild tartness quenched the thirst of farmhands, while peripheral ingredients like spelt, oats and a variety of herbs and spices reflected the blooming summer landscape, giving each farm’s recipe a unique profile. Modern classics like Saison DuPont have pared down the style’s profile to hallmark vibrant lemon and pepper notes with a slight earthy tartness, but a handful of American breweries, such as Funkwerks, are bringing some whimsy to the brew. Since opening in 2010, the Fort Collins, Colo., brewery’s crafted a number of saisons, from a traditional version to a cherry-spiked variety; Tropic King, however, is its greatest achievement. Billed as an imperial saison, the beer exceeds the style’s sessionable status with an 8.0% ABV, while single-hopping with the New Zealand Rakau varietal creates a colorful profile. The tropical aroma teems with pineapple, melon and banana; the same flavors echo on the tongue above a soft malt backbone. Light tartness and hints of prickly ginger and black pepper awaken the sides of the tongue, but those flavors are masterfully balanced by the beer’s soothing, creamy moutheel. Despite its elevated ABV, Tropic King remains light and refreshing; a slight glow in the chest is the only clue to its heft.
Price:
$10
Tulip Triple-creme cheese, greens with lemon vinaigrette Glassware: Pair with:
E I B O R N I V E K
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79
REVIEWS
WOOD-AGED BEERS Categorically speaking, a wood-aged beer is any beer aged in a wooden cask, or in another vessel with wood additives (chips, staves or essences). Regardless of the aging method, the finished brew should reflect the base beer style as well as wood characters. Additionally, beers aged in used bourbon barrels, wine casks and the like should contain characteristics of those beverages. Aromas and flavors will vary, but mouthfeels should be fuller and ABVs higher than the base styles.
MENAGERIE NO. 5 Evolution Craft Brewing Co. Delmar, Delaware evolutioncraftbrewing.com Wood-Aged Beer ABV: 10.5% IBU: 60 RATING
96
Sweet prune and cherry wafts contrast this beer’s burnt malt aroma; vanilla softens the edges and connects the bouquet. No. 5 is a well-constructed Russian imperial stout: The beer’s sharp roasted notes balance sweet, dark chocolate while smooth alcohol keeps all of the robust malts in check—just as the style calls for. This full-bodied, barrel-kissed brew’s vanilla flavor strings sweetness through the swallow, while woody tannins accentuate the beer’s dark malt bite. A dry finish with lingering chocolate and roasted malts is an achievement for such a flavor-packed beer.
PAIR: Aged beers feature
well-developed flavors that need sturdy legs to stand on: Match these chewy stouts with equally robust fare, like roasts or stews.
BLACK GOLD BOURBON IMPERIAL STOUT Full Sail Brewing Co. Hood River, Oregon fullsailbrewing.com Wood-Aged Beer ABV: 11.4% IBU: 38 RATING
94 BOURBON COUNTY BRAND STOUT 2010
Goose Island brewed the first vintage of this stout in 2005 to mark the brewery’s 1,000th batch.
Goose Island Beer Co. Chicago, Illinois gooseisland.com Wood-Aged Beer ABV: 13.0% IBU: 60 RATING
93 80
Warm bourbon scents awaken the nose for a big waft of vanilla and coconut tinged by dark roasted malts. Light woody tannins pepper rich dark chocolate and vanilla notes that run over a bed of roasted malts. Throughout the swallow, bourbon quietly weaves through the foundation, but never turns hot. Coconut fuses with dark chocolate in the back, and lasts on the tongue long into the finish. This bourbonbarrel-aged brew packs huge flavor and a welcome soft booze bite.
A detailed aroma seeps into the nose with heavy barrel and dark stout scents: Roasted malts and charred barrel notes counter sweet vanilla and figs as smooth bourbon wafts tie the bouquet together. This viscous, chewy beer permeates every part of the tongue. Rich, dark chocolate pools with a cream flavor and cushions a hot wave of bourbon. Woody tannins and roasted malts poke at the sides of the tongue, as sweet coconut, vanilla and maple swirl in the back. This year’s Bourbon County will only improve with age, but its rich beginning and lasting coconut finish make it excellent to drink today.
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
REVIEWS
IMPERIAL IPAS DETOUR DOUBLE INDIA PALE ALE
Bold orange and pine scents seep from this beer’s long-lasting, thick head, while lightly toasted bread softens the hop-forward aroma. This beer’s undoubtedly hoppy, but its smooth, creamy malt base almost steals the spotlight: Toasted biscuit notes stretch across the tongue, imparting a nutty depth in the middle, as they soak up juicy orange and tangerine favors. In the back, dank pine notes enrich the hop profile before a bitter wave leaves the tongue pleasantly dry.
Uinta Brewing Co. Salt Lake City, Utah uintabrewing.com Imperial IPA ABV: 9.5% IBU: 74 RATING
96 HERCULES DOUBLE IPA
Hercules glows a spectacular apricot hue as orange and grassy hop scents sing in the air; sweet, bready wafts underscore the hoppy aroma. Playful, sweet orange hop notes dive into the beer’s biscuit base, drawing out the malt’s subtle caramel notes. Dank, resinous pine swirls in the middle, thickening the mouthfeel to a near-barleywine viscosity. Still, distinctly smooth bitterness lifts Hercules from the tongue, marking a surprisingly dry, quaffable finish for such a powerful brew.
Great Divide Brewing Co. Denver, Colorado greatdivide.com Imperial IPA ABV: 10.0% IBU: 85 RATING
95
DOUBLE SIMCOE IPA
These hoppy giants honor their English and American IPA kin yet satisfy palates that demand a more intense brew. These beers— synonymous with double, extra and extreme IPAs—are powerfully hopped: Brewers may use any number and variety of the herb, resulting in some versions that smell fruity, some grassy and some sweet. Flavors should go heavy on the hops with a commanding bitterness and, usually, dryness. A malt backbone should help to prop up the hops, but shouldn’t be dominantly sweet. It’s important to note the difference between imperial IPAs and American barleywines: The latter is maltier, higher-bodied and more alcoholic, and is regarded as a sipping beer rather than a gulping one—that means imperial IPAs, even with their hop strength, still require drinkability. PAIR: Opt for rich foods that will
stay on your palate as long as these beers’ hops: Carrot cake, bacon cheeseburgers and creamy smoked cheeses are sure bets.
This single-hop brew fills the air with an appealing dank, catty aroma—a hallmark of Simcoe hops—with bread scents woven throughout. Toasted malts lay down beneath resinous pine, while juicy grapefruit and apricot add a succulent touch to the heavier hop notes. Robust bitterness slashes through the flavors and tingles the tongue alongside prickly alcohol, culminating in a dry finish.
Weyerbacher Brewing Co. Easton, Pennsylvania weyerbacher.com Imperial IPA ABV: 9.0% IBU: 90 RATING
94 95-100
DRAFT Classic
90-94
Exceptional
DRAFT JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012
85-89
Very Good
80-84
Good
75-79
Recommended
0-74
No Recommendation 81
REVIEWS
THE ORACLE DIPA ALE Bell’s Brewery
Galesburg, Michigan bellsbeer.com Imperial IPA
ABV: 10.0% IBU: 105 RATING
93
RETRIBÜTION High Water Brewing
Redding, California highwaterbrewing.com Imperial IPA
ABV: 9.5% IBU: 95 RATING
92
CENTENNIAL SINGLE HOP IMPERIAL IPA Flying Dog Brewery
Fredericksburg, Maryland flyingdogales.com Imperial IPA
ABV: 10.0% IBU: 70 RATING
The Oracle fills the glass a brilliantly clear, dark gold hue as big hop scents ooze from the head. Bold, dank pine scents stick to th e nose as grapefruit imbues the aroma with sharp fruitiness; lightly toasted malts dull the edges. The Oracle is decidedly fluid: Aggressive bitterness chases apricot and grapefruit zest that morph into pine and grass in the back of the mouth. Hop bitterness builds with each swallow and tingles the taste buds.
Grassy and grapefruit scents entwine with dank catty wafts as sweet biscuity malts buoy this beer’s bouquet. Those biscuity scents echo in the flavor as they run across the tongue gaining toasted notes along the way. Lustrous grapefruit and lemon dawn in the middle, lightening the biscuit base as sticky pine swells in the back. This beer’s hop presence is bold, but its bitterness packs a pleasant bite, gently drying the tongue as warmth grows in the chest.
Pepper and mint hover on the fringes of this beer’s dewy, grassy aroma. Toasted, biscuity malts blanket the tongue while fresh grass and lemon notes hover above. Mid-sip, resinous hops take hold, adding some stickiness to the malt base. Delicate mint notes punctuate the resinous hops with a fragrant herbal accent before a rush of bitterness roughs the tongue. Lasting bitterness tightens its clutch well into the next hoppy sip.
90 82
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
REVIEWS
2XIPA Southern Tier Brewing Co.
Smells of juicy grapefruit and lemon pith sharpen 2XIPA’s big wafts of dank pine. Grapefruit and apricot lead the charge on the tongue, with fleeting lemon and orange all cascading down a solid bready malt backbone. Sticky, resinous hops build on the tongue’s sides, exuding pine notes while quiet toasted flavors emerge in the middle. Through the swallow, this beer’s hop-forward, but never turns harsh. A refreshingly dry finish leaves behind enduring bitterness.
Lakewood, New York
southerntierbrewing.com Imperial IPA ABV: 8.2% IBU: 65 RATING
89
HOP JUICE Left Coast Brewing Co.
With a name like Hop Juice, it’s no surprise this brash brew balloons in the nose with juicy hop aromas: Candied orange and fresh grassy scents swirl with caramel for a sweet hop bouquet. Hop Juice layers the tongue with a foundation of caramel-sweetened, toasted malts, while candied orange hop notes hover above it. Bordering on a barleywine, this beer’s rich malts endure a wicked bitter wave, which recedes with floral hop notes fluttering in the back. Each big sip warms the chest and leaves sweet, citrusy hop notes latched onto the tongue.
San Clemente, California
leftcoastbrewing.com Imperial IPA ABV: 9.7% IBU: 82 RATING
88
XXXX IPA The Shipyard Brewing Co.
This English-style spin on an imperial IPA greets the nose with a vibrant Anglo-ale aroma: Smooth toffee weaves through a bouquet bursting with fruity berry and shining citrus scents. This beer’s aggressive: Bitterness smacks the tongue in a rage, nipping at the heels of a toasted biscuit base as it spreads out. Sharp orange and grapefruit peel snake through the swallow before warming alcohol merges with the hop bitterness to scrape the tongue dry. The intense mouthfeel might be too bold for some, but the beer’s a match for drinkers who prefer their imperials loud.
Portland, Maine
shipyard.com Imperial IPA ABV: 9.3% IBU: 70 RATING
83 95-100
DRAFT Classic
90-94
Five hop varieties go into Hop Juice, and the beer’s dry-hopped for two weeks.
Exceptional
DRAFT JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012
85-89
Very Good
80-84
Good
75-79
Recommended
0-74
No Recommendation 83
REVIEWS
STRONG SCOTCH ALES Also called “wee heavy” ales, these complexly malty and richly sweet brews are the strongest of the Scotch ales—ABVs can reach 10 percent. Both the aroma and flavor brim with deep malt and a hint of peat and, occasionally, some dark fruit esters; hops are scarce, if present at all. These beers are full-bodied, often presenting a chewy mouthfeel with noticeable (but smooth) alcohol warmth.
ROBERT THE BRUCE Three Floyds Brewing Co. Munster, Indiana 3floyds.com Strong Scotch Ale ABV: 6.5% IBU: 24 RATING
97
This dark brown brew opens up with an intense, complex aroma of rich caramel, sweet plum, toasted almonds and singed malt scents. A sturdy toasted malt base is this big beer’s constant; otherwise, the swallow’s a smooth, twisted trip of flavors. Nutty almond adds a deep, earthy counterpoint to fig and plum notes that swirl in the middle; then, pumpernickel rises in the back and pulls out dark chocolate. Subdued alcohol ushers the beer from the tongue, and dark malts hurry along behind.
PAIR: Opt for game meats,
gnocchi dishes and aged cheeses. Their flavors won’t topple against these beers’ brute strength and thick mouthfeels.
SAMUEL ADAMS WEE HEAVY Boston Beer Co. Boston, Massachusetts samueladams.com Strong Scotch Ale ABV: 10.0% IBU: 45 RATING
Light wafts of peaty smoke wind through the bouquet’s sweet caramel and fig scents; the same smokiness meanders through the beer’s caramel flavors, invoking subtle, woody notes that are spot-on for the style. Light chocolate notes string sweetness through the core of the sip, which is washed away by a rise of spicy alcohol that tickles the back of the throat. Wee Heavy exits with a graceful smoky finish, leaving a touch of caramel behind.
92 HIGHWAY 78 SCOTCH ALE
Watch a video on Highway 78’s inception at vimeo.com/ 19680279.
Stone Brewing Co. Escondido, California stonebrew.com Strong Scotch Ale ABV: 8.8% IBU: 29 RATING
92
84
This collaboration between Stone, Green Flash and Pizza Port glows a stunning chestnut hue as sweet toffee scents permeate the nose. Toasted bread and chocolate hit the tongue first and hard; they pick up light plum notes as the flavors glide back. Subtle alcohol dots the rich malts with peppery spice as an underlining bitterness keeps the beer from saturating the tongue. While Highway 78 lacks some of the nutty, smoky complexity of the style, its elegantly braided flavors and dry finish create a remarkably rich yet tempered brew.
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
REVIEWS
WHEAT WINES WHEAT WINE ALE
Sweet caramel scents drift through wafts of orange and piney hops; light grainy wheat and toasted malts deepen the aroma. This beer’s intense wheat notes cover the tongue and prop up sharp orange peel and thick pine. Toasted malts emerge mid-sip, giving the malt base added dimension before a drying finish sweeps the tongue dry.While this example may lack the sticky mouthfeel of most wheat wines, its dynamic flavor and clean finish make it a true pleasure to imbibe.
The Fort Collins Brewery Fort Collins, Colorado fortcollinsbrewery.com Specialty Beer ABV: 9.3% IBU: 28 RATING
90
This specialty style is just as full-bodied as its sister style, barleywines, but brewed with 50 percent or more malted wheat. Wheat wines typically range from gold to copper in hue. The beer’s malts often showcase bready, wheaty and honey notes, while fruity esters and high residual sugars coat the tongue with sweetness, leaving just a moderate bitterness in their wake. These high-octane beers boast ABVs upwards of 8%. PAIR: Contrast these beers’
heavy sweetness with a funky blue cheese like Stilton, or match its intensity with equally sweet sticky toffee pudding.
WHEAT WINE ALE
A vivacious aroma of peppery alcohol and fresh, grassy hops sharpen big, juicy apricot scents. The sinewy brew rushes over the tongue with the intensity of an imperial IPA: Bold apricot and orange connect with honey sweetness in the front, while aggressive bitterness flexes in the back. Biting wheat bristles the sides of the tongue as sugary notes pool in the middle. Finishing assertively dry with glowing alcohol warmth, this is a thunderous beer from beginning to end.
Smuttynose Brewing Co. Portsmouth, New Hampshire smuttynose.com Specialty Beer ABV: 12.0% IBU: 70 RATING
87
MISERY
Bold grapefruit scents merge with grainy wheat, sharpening this beer’s fresh, doughy aroma. Smooth toasted wheat notes splash down on the tongue, underlining candy sweetness. In the middle, Concord grape notes swirl with the sweetness and create a jammy sensation, while warming alcohol floats above. Faint grapefruit and orange notes herald a bitter wave, but the rich malt base endures. A wheaty bite flashes in the back, leading into a warming, sweet finish.
DuClaw Brewing Co. Abingdon, Maryland duclaw.com Specialty Beer ABV: 11.2% IBU: 65 RATING
84 95-100
DRAFT Classic
Smuttynose’s was the first wheat wine bottled and sold in America.
90-94
Exceptional
DRAFT JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012
85-89
Very Good
80-84
Good
75-79
Recommended
0-74
No Recommendation 85
REVIEWS
SMOKED PORTERS Rauchbiers employ a Märzen/ Oktoberfest lager as their base, but any beer style can be smoked, and those others are judged in the “Other Smoked Beer” category. Appearance, body, aroma and taste will vary from beer to beer, but they all should reflect the base style (here, we’re talking porters) and present a low to strong smoky twist. Moreover, the wood used in smoking should harmonize with the flavors of the base style; how well the smoke enhances and balances the beer is the most critical criterion.
DOUBLE PORTER SMOKED Rock Art Brewery Morrisville, Vermont rockartbrewery.com Other Smoked Beer ABV: 8.0% IBU: 60 RATING
97
A fantastically smooth, smoky aroma drifts up from the glass with sweet caramel and chocolate accents. Like the aroma, this beer’s flavor profile is heavily smoked and casts a campfire veil over chocolate and coffee flavors. Roasted malts perk up in the middle, contrasting subtle dates, while hop bitterness subdues the beer’s sweetness. This remarkably intricate sipping beer exits the tongue with a dry, smoky finish as spicy alcohol tickles the back of the throat.
PAIR: Couple
these beers with fare appropriate for their porter bases, like a rich stew or nutty cheeses; notice how the smoke adds a new layer to the food’s flavor. Smoked beers also complement creamy cheeses like triple-crème or warm Brie, as their dense flavors soak into the slightly sweet, thick cheese.
SIGNATURE SMOKED PORTER Choc Beer Co. Krebs, Oklahoma chocbeer.com Other Smoked Beer ABV: 7.0% IBU: 42 RATING
94
FADE TO BLACK VOL. 2 Left Hand Brewing Co. Longmont, Colorado lefthandbrewing.com Other Smoked Beer ABV: 7.8% IBU: 35 RATING
90
86
A pleasant smoky campfire aroma fills the nose, mellow and smooth with light bacon accents. The brown brew’s caramel and chocolate tightly twist together, spinning sweetness across the tongue while cool smoke permeates the malt base and adds woodsy contrast to the beer’s underlying sweetness. Earthy hops complement the smoke flavors before bitterness guides the drink to a dry conclusion; smoke hovers in the mouth long after the swallow for a finish worth savoring.
This Baltic porter’s aroma is as dark as its deep, black hue: Smooth charcoal smoke encompasses rich chocolate and subtle spicy pepper scents. Like the aroma, charcoal smoke billows in the mouth, floating above creamy dark chocolate and caramel sweetness. Toasted malts arrive in the middle before a lagerlike snap offers a crisp, refreshing finish; lasting smoke notes please the palate long after the swallow. Although Fade to Black lacks the fruity malt notes of a Baltic porter, its sturdy malt backbone supports a fine showcase of smoky flavors.
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
REVIEWS
ASHLAND AMBER ALE
Bright orange and grapefruit billow from the glass and add sweet touches to an aroma of freshly cut grass, while soft toasted malt notes deepen the bouquet. A solid toasted bread foundation—slightly nutty up front—flows over the tongue, and into sharp grapefruit peel notes in the back. Just before the swallow, smooth bitterness takes hold, culminating in a dry finish that marks the end of this tremendously fresh, sessionable brew.
Caldera Brewing Co. Ashland, Oregon calderabrewing.com American Amber Ale ABV: 5.4% IBU: 24 RATING
90
AMERICAN AMBERS Essentially maltier, bigger-bodied American pale ales, American ambers are high in hop flavor, but a strong caramel malt presence tips them into balance. Sometimes nicknamed red ales, ambers actually range in color from copper to brown, but are usually clear. Some versions feature pronounced citrus hop flavors, while others focus on sweetness. Despite their abundant hops, these brews should finish smooth; some even offer slight alcohol warmth. PAIR: The beer’s caramel notes
WAPITI AMBER ALE
Fresh-baked biscuit scents rule this burnt orange brew’s aroma while wafts of light caramel and grassy and orange hops play backup. On the tongue, the beer’s malts are more subdued than the aroma (and the style guidelines) suggests, but overall, the swallow’s cohesive: Lightly toasted malt notes stroked with caramel sweetness run down the middle, pressing up against orange-studded hops along the way. Faint grassy hops rise in the back before sturdy bitterness washes over the tongue.
Mogollon Brewing Co. Flagstaff, Arizona mogbrew.com American Amber Ale ABV: 6.0% IBU: 35 RATING
88
NATIVE AMBER
American Amber Ale ABV: 6.3% IBU: 40 RATING
87 DRAFT Classic
90-94
mayo from the palate and keep lettuce crisp.
This rust-hued brew’s sugary biscuit malt aroma affixes to sweet orange and fresh grass hop scents. Native Amber runs smoothly over the tongue, laying down a lightly toasted biscuit base and hints of dark chocolate. Orange and apricot hop notes strum brightly, while its relatively urbane bitterness gently presses against the tongue. Fresh pine hits just before the swallow, balancing the hop profile and lending a welcomed hoppy finish to a typically malt-balanced style.
COOP Ale Works Oklahoma City, Oklahoma coopaleworks.com
95-100
draw out sweetness in apple and pumpkin pie, while the healthy dose of hops makes the bite less sticky. Ambers also pair well with most deli sandwiches; the malt notes complement fresh bread, while the hops clear meat and
Exceptional
DRAFT JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012
85-89
Very Good
80-84
Good
75-79
Recommended
See how COOP’s taking OKC by storm on p. 40.
0-74
No Recommendation 87
REVIEWS
APPALACHIAN AMBER ALE Thomas Creek Brewery Greenville, South Carolina thomascreekbeer.com American Amber Ale ABV: 6.8% IBU: 40 RATING
Rich toffee sweetens the soft cherry and orange scents fluttering in this beer’s aroma. Similarly, toffee and toasted malts take the lead on the tongue, pooling in the middle with familiar cherry and orange notes. Throughout the swallow, fresh doughy flavors augment the malt base while grassy hop notes create a dynamic contrast in the back. A slow, drying finish caps off this beer and leaves the tongue tingling.
86
RUNAWAY RED ALE Ice Harbor Brewing Co. Kennewick, Washington iceharbor.com American Amber Ale ABV: 5.7% IBU: 25 RATING
85
AMBER ALE
In 1995, Bill and Michelle Tressler opened Hinterland in a former meat packing plant.
Hinterland Brewery Green Bay, Wisconsin hinterlandbeer.com American Amber Ale ABV: 5.7% IBU: 16 RATING
82
88
Biscuits dominate Runaway’s aroma, though temptingly sweet caramel and fruity esters push through the malt and hints of citrus add a dash of brightness. Nutty, caramel-sweet malts run over the tongue and transition into toasted notes as the beer washes back. Tangerine zest presses against the malts from sip to swallow, empowered by a rising bitterness in the back. In the end, nutty, citrusy notes last long into the dry finish.
This crystal-clear brew’s delicate aroma spins together sweet caramel, berry and faint citrus scents. The beer treads equally lightly on the tongue: Toasted malts (plus an unusual smoke undercurrent) fan out and impart subtle caramel sweetness in the back. Resinous, piney hop notes hover above and counter the malts before drying bitterness settles in. This amber refreshes, but it would benefit from deeper malt and hop complexity.
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
REVIEWS
BLACK IPAS HOPPY FEET
Hoppy Feet fills the air with textbook black IPA aromas of sharp orange and grassy hops, plus sweet wafts of chocolate and caramel. The taste mirrors the aroma, unfurling with a marvelous balance. Light caramel and roasted malts underscore grapefruit peel and grassy hops. In the back, chocolate and nutty notes meet woodsy hops, before an intense bitter onslaught. As dryness parches the tongue, a flash of juicy orange signals this big beer’s finish.
Clown Shoes Ipswich, Massachusetts clownshoesbeer.com Specialty Beer ABV: 7.0% IBU: 75 RATING
94
Although still categorized by the BJCP as specialty beers, black IPAs (also known as Cascadian dark ales, India black ales and American black ales) have become a style all their own. These burgeoning beers should present the American hop-forward profile associated with pale ales and IPAs alongside complementary roasted malt flavors that range from dark chocolate to bitter roast. Lighter-bodied than porters and stouts, black IPAs should maintain the light to medium mouthfeel of hoppy ales along with a thirst-quenching finish. PAIR: Roasted chicken’s crispy
skin draws out the beer’s sweeter
PITCH BLACK IPA
Pitch Black’s aroma pairs sweet caramel and chocolate scents with sticky pine while distant roasted malts thread a slight edge through the bouquet. Caramel runs across the tongue with subtle dark fruit notes while chirpy roasted malts bite at the sides. Like the aroma, the malt base imbues fresh piney hops with a touch of sweetness; sharp grapefruit peel sharpens the roasted malt’s edge. Throughout the swallow, Pitch Black maintains great balance, showcasing an exceptional blend of dark malts and vibrant hops.
Widmer Brothers Brewing Portland, Oregon widmerbrothers.com Specialty Beer ABV: 6.5% IBU: 65 RATING
94
TOXIC SLUDGE
malts, while herbs like rosemary accent the pungent hop profile.
Dark chocolate enriches Toxic Sludge’s roasted malt scents while a shot of juicy orange cuts through the bold aroma. Roasted barley and toasted malt notes carry citrusy hops down the tongue, pooling in the middle with subtle plum. Ashy malts accent the fringes before the dominant malt bitterness dries out the tongue. This beer treads lightly, culminating in a very quaffable sip despite its 7.0% ABV.
Blue Point Brewing Co. Patchogue, New York bluepointbrewing.com Specialty Beer ABV: 7.0% IBU: 35 RATING
93 95-100
DRAFT Classic
90-94
Exceptional
DRAFT JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012
85-89
Very Good
80-84
Good
75-79
Recommended
0-74
No Recommendation 89
REVIEWS
BLACK TOP New Glarus Brewing Co. New Glarus, Wisconsin
newglarusbrewing.com Specialty Beer ABV: 6.9% IBU: 40 RATING
86
IBA Lakefront Brewery Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Lakefront also brews what was the nation’s first certified organic beer, Lakefront Organic ESB.
lakefrontbrewery.com Specialty Beer ABV: 6.5% IBU: 39 RATING
85
BLACK HOPS Blue Hills Brewery Canton, Massachusetts
bluehillsbrewery.com Specialty Beer ABV: 6.8% IBU: 29
RATING
An enticing mélange of hop scents forms a substantial bouquet of orange, pineapple and mango with dank catty accents. Like the aroma, this black IPA’s light on the dark malts. A heavy wave of succulent orange and catty hops consumes the tongue, while flickers of roasted malts accent the hops’ prickly mouthfeel. Black Top’s relatively light bitterness creates a swallow so easy, the beer’s almost sessionable; its ABV is masterfully masked.
IBA’s sharp orange and light roasted malt scents tickle the nose as smooth piney hops and a waft of sugary malts round out the aroma’s edges. Dark roasted malts splash down the tongue’s center, segueing into drying baking chocolate in the back. Along the way, piney, grassy hops flank the tongue, while its bitterness adds extra bite to the roasted malts to quickly dry the mouth. A citrusy hop addition would add some brightness, but as it is, IBA (short for India-style Black Ale) certainly lives up to its brooding name.
Quiet roast and earthy hop scents tangle in the air while this beer’s fluffy off-white head pops in the glass. Dark chocolate takes the lead and rushes down the tongue with threads of coffee and cream. Rustic, earthy hops punctuate the malt base while bitterness quickly builds in the back; a crisp swallow signals the beer’s lasting dry finish. Black Hops covers the tongue with a solid malt foundation, but could benefit from a heftier hop presence.
81 90
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012 DRAFT
CALENDAR
GO NOW: WINTER BEER FESTS Beat the cold with beer-loving crowds and chest-warming brews Winterfest JANUARY 5-7
BIG BEERS, BELGIANS AND BARLEYWINES FESTIVAL VAIL, COLO.
Put on your thinking and drinking caps for this educational gathering at the base of the Rocky Mountains. A slew of experimental and homebrewing seminars explore the outer limits of high-ABV beers to enlighten minds and palates alike. bigbeersfestival.com JANUARY 21
WINTER WARMER BEER FESTIVAL ASHEVILLE, N.C.
Melt away those wintertime blues with more Southern craft beer favorites than you can shake an icicle at. Expect an energy-filled blues lineup like only Asheville can provide. brewscruise.com/beerfest JANUARY 27
WINTER BREW FEST DENVER, COLO.
It’s hard to stay low when you can be a mile high sipping on unlimited samples of Colorado’s best. Keep an eye out for local newcomer Strange Brewing. denverbrewfest.com JANUARY 28
JUPITER CRAFT BREWERS FESTIVAL JUPITER, FLA.
The only festival where you can wear shorts in January. Stop by the day before the main fest for the relaxed Field of Beers event that pairs more than a dozen brews from Florida and beyond with gourmet fare. jupitercraftbrewersfestival.com JANUARY 28
WORLD BEER FESTIVAL COLUMBIA, S.C.
Once again, the minds behind All About Beer bring this two-session celebration to Columbia, along with an impressive lineup of 300-plus worldly beers. Part of the proceeds benefit a l ocal charity. allaboutbeer.com FEBRUARY 3
WINTERFEST ST. PAUL, MINN.
Only 700 tickets will be sold for t his celebration of Minnesota suds, which means the curious drinker can chat with brewers, while the casual drinker can peruse the food and beer tables without stepping on toes. mncraftbrew.org FEBRUARY 3-4
EXTREME BEER FEST BOSTON, MASS.
The weak-willed should skip this festival of beers that push the limits of ingredients, alcohol content and common sense. It starts with a bang: The first night exclu-
sively features wood-aged beers. beeradvocate.com FEBRUARY 10-11
COD AND CASK FESTIVAL ST. LOUIS, MO.
Get a taste of real ale at this festival with a range of cask brews hand-pumped right to the bar. Soak up the suds with Icelandic cod battered in—you guessed it—beer. schlafly.com FEBRUARY 13-18
RUSSIAN RIVER WEEK TEMECULA, CALI F.
Temecula pub Barley a nd Hops hosts a week of drinking that highlights t he best of Russian River Brewing. Don’t dilly-dally; last ye ar, Pliny the Younger sold out in 30 minutes! barleyandhopheads.com FEBRUARY 17-18
MT. ANGEL WURSTFEST MT. ANGEL, ORE.
Who says Oktoberfest has to actually be celebrated in October? Non-stop music, brews by the barrel and the best of the wurst make this a can’t-miss. mtangelwurstfest.com FEBRUARY 18
STRONG BEER FESTIVAL PHOENIX, ARIZ.
Expect big-ABV beers at the perfect reason to drink in the desert—and the kick off event to Arizona’s second installment of its Beer Week. azbrewguild.com MARCH 28-31
NEW ENGLAND REAL ALE EXHIBITION SOMERVILLE, MASS.
Cask-conditioned, unfiltered “real ale” is the star of this expo known as NERAX. More than 90 firkins will be on hand to teach your taste buds what a “real” beer tastes like. nerax.org MARCH 30-31
ATLANTIC CITY BEER FESTIVAL ATLANTIC CITY, N.J. Winter Warmer Beer Festival
92
More than 75 brewers descend on Atlantic City to pour for 17,000 thirsty
beer lovers at three sessions; watch for an array of the nati on’s best brews, including samples from Jersey’s own Flying Fish. celebrationofthesuds.com APRIL 6-7
SPRING BEER AND WINE FEST PORTLAND, ORE.
This Northwest fest combines the culinary and the carbonated when a variety of respected chefs explore intriguing combinations to please any palate. The early bird gets the beer here; admission is free for the f irst 1,000 festival-goers each day. springbeerfest.com APRIL 15
CLASSIC CITY BREW FEST ATHENS, GA.
This is the 17th installment of the Southeast festival favorite, so you know they’re doing it right. Expect some rare, one-off brews and a tent pouring a host of casked beauties. classiccitybrew.com
UPCOMING BEER WEEKS: FEBRUARY 10-19 SAN FRANCISCO BEER WEEK sfbeerweek.org
FEBRUARY 18-25 ARIZONA BEER WEEK Azbeerweek.com
FEBRUARY 24-MARCH 4 SACRAMENTO BEER WEEK sacramentobeerweek.com
MARCH 16-25 CHARLOTTE CRAFT BEER WEEK charlottecraftbeerweek.org
A V O N A V I
Find beer events near you and enter to win free tickets at
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STYLE
BEER BLOTTERS Spilled stout becomes somewhat less of a tragedy when it’s wiped up with beer-minded towels. Tandie Mast, the artist behind NestaHome, hand-stamps cotton kitchen cloths with antique printing blocks—yet they’re durable enough to toss in the washing machine before your next round with the snifter. $24 for four, nestahome.com
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Perhaps Perhaps the the one one time time if if you you go go out out for for
your your wife wife won’t won’t mind mind a a couple couple of of beers. beers.
Visit our website, come to an event, follow our Twitter feed, check out Visit our website, come to an event, follow our Twitter feed, check out our Facebook page. But join us. Because all men over 40 should be aware, our Facebook page. But join us. Because all men over 40 should be aware, and get tested. The life you save may be your own. Cheers. and get tested. The life you save may be your own. Cheers. twitter @pints4prostates twitter @pints4prostates
www.pintsforprostates.org www.pintsforprostates.org
©2010 Pints for Prostates Inc. Creative design donated as a public service by Eric Mower and Associates. ©2010 Pints for Prostates Inc. Creative design donated as a public service by Eric Mower and Associates.
BEERME
Follow Tim’s Streak at draftmag.com /beerrunner
el. I’ve finished the occasional late-night run after a happy hour. You have to be both determined and flexible to keep up this streak. Thankfully, most days aren’t so adventurous. People often ask me how I can keep this up every single day. I tell them you have to pace yourself, and I wouldn’t be doing it if I ever felt unhealthy. I can honestly say that I’ve never felt better, and it turns out there is some scientific basis for this. According to the findings of a study entitled “Beer, Marathon, Genetics, Inflammation and the Cardiovascular System,” athletes who drank wheat beer after exercise had stronger immune systems and shorter and fewer colds than those who drank an alcohol-free placebo. Another study, “Beer, Mediterranean Diet and Cardiovascular Disease,” found that subjects who regularly drank moderate amounts of beer were less likely to suffer from diabetes or high blood pressure and had lower body fat. So to paraphrase a television commercial, beer is a nutritious part of a complete lifestyle. My own performances reflect these findings. Shortly after I started this streak, I entered a 5K and ran my fastest time since I competed in high school cross-country and track. The night before, I carbo-loaded with New Glarus Wisconsin Cran-bic. Nearly a year of beer and running later, I ran another 5K and set a personal record. Originally, I was going to try this experiment for exactly one year. Talk about the perfect pairing: DRAFT blogger As the days passed and I fell into a comfortable routine, I realized I didTim Cigelske proves that craft beer and running n’t want to stop. It was too much fun. But I did want to celebrate 365 are the secrets to keeping fit and loving life. days at the Great American Beer Fest. In late September, I flew into Denver and met beer drinkers and runners from around the country. I ran and drank with groups at the Highland Tap and Irish Snug. I sampled from the hundreds of breweries at the world’s largest beer festival. Finally, I topped it off with a 30-mile run for my 30th birthday, joined by fellow beer drinkers and runners. As I write, I’m on day 406 of drinking at least one beer and running I completed one year of beer and running with an average of at least one mile every day. Usually, it’s much more than the minimum. roughly one beer for every three miles. Never does beer taste sweeter This somewhat obsessive-compulsive streak strikes some as an than as a reward after a good, hard run. odd pairing. But if I ever had any question that craft beer and running Along the way, I’ve met countless kindred spirits. This summer I are better together, this experience has erased any doubt. met a man who has been running every single day for longer than I’ve Why would someone even attempt this, you ask? been alive. A friend presented him with a 30-pack of beer to celebrate 30 A few days before turning 29, I decided I wanted to do something years of running. His story and those of the other beer and running memorable for the last year in my 20s. I wanted to go really big. I asked enthusiasts I’ve met through social media led me to believe that my others for ideas, and a suggestion from a friend to combine my hobbies journey isn’t quite as crazy as it seems. struck a chord. It sounded reasonable at the time. I’ve learned beer and running complement each other. They I had no idea what I was getting into. Since starting this streak, both teach you pacing, balance and that you can enjoy what you love I’ve had more than 800 beers and run more than 2,000 miles—most of every day. them not at the same time. Today, a day without running or beer would So after I finished my longest run ever, I washed down ibuprofen feel unnatural. with a mug of beer. And I decided to keep going. It hasn’t always been easy. I ran through Milwaukee’s worst blizzard Tim Cigelske is DRAFT’s Beer Runner blogger. He lives (and runs, and in years and another time on a treadmill at 1 a.m. in a New Jersey hotel. I drinks) in Milwaukee with his wife and daughter. chugged a PBR just before midnight during a busy day of work and trav-
RUN, DRINK, REPEAT
I can’t stop running and drinking beer.
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H T A R G C M D E T Y B N O I T A R T S U L L I
The “It’s Only Another Beer” Black and Tan
8 oz. pilsner lager 8 oz. stout lager 1 frosty mug 1 icy road 1 pick-up truck 1 10-hour day 1 tired worker A few rounds with the guys Mix ingredients. Add 1 totalled vehicle.
Never underestimate ‘just a few.’ Buzzed driving is drunk driving.
