DIY DI Y Sculpting Tools
www.WillowProducts.com
Prof rofe ess ssiion ona al Scul Sculp pti tin ng Wa Waxe xes s for th the Stud Studiio
J oin the best sculp lpttin ing g and modelin ling g fo foru rum m…. …... for pro’s and amateurs alike!
www.TheTinkerage.net
Before you go any further, read the important message below: 1) This document is copyrighted and here is official notice:
©2009 Gary Overman 2) However, despite the fact that is copyrighted I hereby give you the right to distribute it freely….. As long as you keep all the pages intact and do not add, change, or delete the content. 3)Please note that the tools and techniques shown should only be used by trained and competent adults. I do not offer any warranty either implied or expressed. 4)If you are under the age of 18 you MUST ask for adult help and supervision! 5) Adults…. You are responsible for not only your own safety, but that of your underage children. Use this information only in good faith and PROCEED AT Y OUR OWN RI SK . 6)Always practice safe work habits and maintain a safe work environment. If you do not understand what this means, then stop and either ask appropriate persons for help or just stop what you’re doing , pack-up the project and go read a good book.
I’ve always designed and made my own tools, at least where it made sense froma skills and cost perspective. Several artists who have seen photos of them on our website have asked for a tutorial on how they were made. But the “old style”tool that I’ve used for many years required a lot of time and effort and I felt that they were a little beyond the average artist’s time and cost tolerance. And of course, for my own selfish reasons, if I can build a tool that performs as well, is attractive and is quicker to complete, then I have good reason to keep my toolbox ready with everything I need. Over a year ago I broke my favorite tool. I decided that I had suffered long enough without it. So to remake it, I decided to use my latest design and photograph it along the way. Here’s the basic concept: 1) Requirement: Quick and easy handle that does not require lathe. Solution: Use pre-made wood doweling for main handle so that a lathe is not required. 2) Requirement: Robust connection of the tool bit to the handle and a solution that does not require extensive tooling. Solution: This is one of the main features of the new design. The bit is soldered into a solid copper “contact welding tip”. These tips can be bought in packs of 10 at around $1 each at industrial warehouses or on-line. Expect to pay 2x if you get them froma welding supply store. You will need to drill the hole in the tip to be large enough to accommodate your bit, here around 1/8”. 3) Requirement: The tool should be able to be disassembled in case repair is required. Solution: The completed bit can be removed fromthe wooden handle . And the copper can be heated to remove the steel bit should it need to be replaced or reworked. 4) Requirement: The completed tool should be quick to make and cost should be a minimum. Solution: I completed this tool in less than 1 hour, and that includes working out a few bugs in the design and prepping to work table with the tools required. The material cost came in at just over $2.00 USD.
These photos give some basic shots of forging the tip. You can find out more in books on tool-smithing and black smithing. Since my tools are used on clay and wax, I don’t harden and temper them. I find that the tool steel works just fine in a forged state. If you want to harden and then temper them and know how to do it, go right ahead... J ust be careful not to make these tiny tips brittle. I think “bendy’ is better than “breaky”. And they’re tough enough. Photo 1- Here’s a few essential items you’ll need to forge the steel bit: Propane Torch, Lighter, Scrap Metal Anvil, Ball Peine Hammer. Pliers. Photo 2- The tools and materials to make the handle: wood dowel, center punch,7/32” wood bit, Forstner bit sized to fit rare earth magnet (optional)
Caution- Fire Hazard!- Use good ventilation as well- Hot metal can bur n your skin ! Knowledgeable Adult Supervision is a requirement. Proceed at your own risk. Photo 3- 1/16” allen key is heat until tip glows orange, and then quickly hammer flat on end. Photo 4- Here’s what is looks like flattened. Now you can shape as you desire. Photo 5 - The sides of the flat is ground to an angle and the front is ground concave and the back convex, using a small grinder, a high speed tool, or hand files. Photo 6 - The tip is re-heated to a cherry red and then it is bent with pliers as quickly as possible.
Photo 7 - Continue working with heat, hammer, and cold grinding or filing until you’re happy.
Photo 8 -Here’s a 3/4 view of the finished bit
Photo 9 -Here’s a full side view of the finished bit
Now for the hardest part.... Drill ing a small d eep hole in copper. It may sound odd, but the most difficult part of this project ( in my humble opinion) is drilling the hole in the copper welding tip. I knew that copper is one of the softer metals and I just assumed drilling a 1/8" or so hole in the tip would be like serving warm butter. But that was before I broke 3 bits off and ruined 3 tips! I began to wonder if there was some kind of steel insert inside. Luckily I have a friend that is an expert machinist and he assured me 2 things... 1- There is no steel insert... 2- Drilling small holes in soft copper and brass requires a little know trick. And for that very reason, I pass this trip on to you along with a short attempt to explain why it is more difficult than one might think. Most bits have a pronounced positive rake. This "leading edge" on the cutting surface provides an aggressive lead and helps to pull the bit down into the material. This cutting edge works fine on wood or even steel, but copper is soft and "gummy" (compared to the other metals) and it grabs that leading edge and stops the bit as it hangs instead of cutting. And then you get a snapped bit. The solution? Use a small file, stone, or diamond tool to place a very thin angled "flat" across the cutting edge to reduce the rake. This doesn't really dull the bit, but changes the cutting angle. If it still doesn't make sense, just find a machinst and show him the pictures.The good news is that it only takes about 5-6 strokes on each side of the bit and all of about 1 minute.It's truly amazing what that little change does. Now I can place a little oil onto the drill bit and remove a long chip while drilling out the hole. And the bit survives! While it's hard to even see the change on a 1/8" bit, I had him do it on a larger bit so I could photograph that little lesson in picture form. There’s a before and after shot of the larger demonstration bit on the next page.
Item 1- Unaltered tip Item 4- Forged tip
Item 2- Allen Wrench Item 5- Completed tip.
Item 3- Altered tip Item 6- Lead-free solder.
Now that you’ve got the copper weld tip drilled, it’s pretty simple to sand off the allen wrench’s black oxide coating and then solder it into the newly drilled copper tip. I tried using the solder in a tube, but found that “sweat” soldering it just like plumbing to be the easiest. J ust put some flux in the hole, stick the bit in, heat it with the torch, apply the solder and let it wick into the copper till full. It’s easy than it sounds. You can look up soldering copper pipe and find lots of details on how to learn this versatile skill.
Photo 1) The “business end” of the handle is very simple. J ust mark the center of the 7/16” wooden dowel and drill a 7/32” hole about ½”deep in the center. The copper welding tip has a 6mm thread and this makes for a good tight fit. It’s optional, but you can coat the inside of the 7/32” hole with instant glue and spray the threads with mold release. While the glue is still wet screw the tip into place. The mold release prevents the tip from being glued into place while the glue toughens and strengthens the wood. If you can stand a thicker handle, you can glue a 6mm nut into the wooden handle so that you have metal-to-metal interface. But I find I like the thinner handle and it makes the construction much quicker. I doubt it would add significant strength anyway... The wood would end up thinner overall. Photo 2) I drilled the end of the handle to receive a rare earth magnet and glued it flush in place. This added expense is optional, but it will let you hold 2 tools at once and switch between them...as long as you watch the polarity as you glue them in. This also keeps them fromrolling and banging around if you have a steel pate on your workbench and in your toolbox. Photo 3) Here’s a photo of a larger tool that has a 6mm nut in the handle as I describe in 1 above. But overall I like the version without it better. You can see the “standard”version in 4 below. Photo 4) Sand the handle and then you can stain it with commercial stain, or soak it in tea or coffee. Seal and finish the handle with shellac, beeswax, or tung oil for a great feel. Enjoy your effort. A nice custommade tool is an everyday joy to use not to mention show off on your bench.
See next page !
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