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DIY Multimedia LED Projector (video manual) by newtonn2 newtonn2 on on October 25, 2009
Table of Contents License: No license (full copyright) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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Intro: DIY Multimedia Multimedia LED Projector (video (video manual) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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step 1: The Principle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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step 2: Materials and Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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step 3: Placing the LED in the Heat Sink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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step 4: Mounting the Condenser Condenser Lens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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step 5: Dismanteling the L LCD CD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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step 6: LCD Mount . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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step 7: PCB Fitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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step 8: Schematic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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step 9: LCD Stand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 step 10: Fit legs to the Light Source Source . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 step 11: The Mirrors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 step 12: The Projector Lens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 step 13: 13: Cutting the Fresnel Fresnel Lens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 step 14: 14: Work out the the Distances Distances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 step 15: The AV connectors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 step 16: The Box . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 step 17: Sound System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 step 18: Power Connector . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 step 19: Hot Glue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 step 20: USB Multimedia Reader . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 step 21: Finishing Touches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 step 22: You're Done! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 step 23: Cleaning the Projector . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
License: No license (full copyright) Intro: DIY Multimedia LED Projector (video manual) In this Instructable, I show you how to make a LCD projector with a LED as the light source. I tried to make videos of everything so it is easier to follow the steps. Este Instructable esta en versión en versión en Español After making my first LED projector that you can see here here , , I had lots of questions and people interested in the projector. Some of them went ahead and did something similar like mcastles mcastles . . I felt sorry that I could not give more details of the making of the projector. Also the MP4 player that I used is not longer available so many people could not find an MP4 with composite input like mine. I decided to make another one, so you could actually SEE how to do it. This type of projector is very energy efficient. It only consumes about 41W. A normal projector with metal halide l amp will consume about 260W plus a DVD player which can consume between 20w and 45W for a total of about 300w. That is a saving of a lot of money by the end of the year. Although the quality and brightness of a conventional projector will be better, you'll have to pay the price, and the environment as well. Another good feature of this projector is that the LED should last about 10000 hours of use wile a conventional projector lamp lasts about 2000 hours. Lets see the result of making this projector.
Image Notes 1. DVD just to show size.
Image Notes 1. About 41W consumption.
step 1: The Principle The principle is very simple. There is a powerful light that i s projected through an LCD into a lens so the image is projected. Some things you want to take into consideration: -The better the quality on the LCD, the better the projected image. (I'm using a LCD with 640X480 pixels) -The LCD can't take more than 40C, so if you decide to use some other type of light source, pay good attention to the cooling system. -Without a good fresnel lens will be really difficult to light the LCD evenly. (I'm using the always faithful fresnel lens from an old OHP ) -The fresnel from the OHP is really a twin fresnel, the one that faces the light is expanding the light to the full area of the lens, the other one is focusing all the light to one point. If you keep the two of them together (like this projector) it will be a lot easier and l ess danger of damaging or scratching them. Any big scratch will be reflected in the projected image. The down bit is that you won't be able to do keystoning adjustment. So the projector will have to be placed in a perpendicular position with the screen. -The use of mirrors allows you to make the box smaller as if there are no mirrors, you will have to place the LED farther from the fresnel lens, and also the LCD from the main lens. -You need to have everything inside some sort of enclosure, or the light will be coming out and it will light the room making the projector a lot less efficient.
Image Notes 1. In this image you can see that there are two fresnels, this will allow keystoning. In this projector the two fresnels are together.
step 2: Materials and Tools Here is a list of material I've used to make this projector. Also a list of the tools I've used. MATERIAL :
-LCD Screen (640x480, view ) -30W High power led (1.8A 16V, view ) -Thermal paste grease (This is to conduct more heat between the LED and the heat sink, view ) -Two Heat sinks . (One for the LED, and the other one to cool the voltage regulator) -OHP Mirror. -OHP Fresnel lens. -Old LCD Projector Lens (If you're using a LCD bigger than 2" you won't be able to use a slide projector lens. I found the LCD projector on the street without light. Some copy lenses are good for this project) -Some sort of case (I made mine with wood and plywood, but be creative, If you can fit everything inside some sort of metal box, that'll be even smaller.) -40mm fan ( I took mine from a Mac case I found on the street.) -20V Laptop charger (4.5A) -12v PC Speakers -4 Small washers. - Paint (only if you decide to paint the enclosure) ELECTRONICS :
-LM350 (3A Voltage regulator. Used to power the LED, view , datasheet ) -12V Fixed voltage regulato r (2A, view , datasheet ) -5V Fixed voltage regulator (2A, This one is not totally necessary, I used it to make the fan less noisy, view , datasheet ) - 560 Ohm Resistor -(2) 1N4001 Diodes - 0.1 uf Capacitor - (2) 10 uf Capacitor - 100nF Capacitor - 5k variable resistor TOOLS :
-Drill -Dremel with cutting disk and round file tool.
-Solder. -Small round file. -Pliers. -Double size tape. -Masking tape. -Epoxy ABOUT THE COST... I spent about 60 pounds, but I had many parts already. The LCD was 22 Pounds The LED was 25 Pounds The old OHP was 5 Pounds (mirror and fresnel) The Electronic components cost me around 3 Pounds I had all the other parts. The condenser lens was from a car headlight. The heatsink from a old pc processor. The lens came from an old LCD projector.
step 3: Placing the LED in the Heat Sink The High Power LED needs to be placed on a Heat sink. The heat sink I'm using is not as big as I would like, that's why I added a fan to cool off the heat sink. 1.- Mark the holes where you'll fix the LED. 2.- Make the holes with the drill. 3.- Put some thermal paste grease . 4.- Fix the LED to the Heat sink. 5.- Find a way to fix the condenser lens later. ( I used some slide lens adapter that I had hanging around. You could use any plastic tube. Make the necessary holes for the cables) 6.- Solder the cables to the LED (Protect the LED before soldering. Pay good attention to the polarity, It should say it) Here is the video of how I've done it.
step 4: Mounting the Condenser Lens The condenser lens will help to project the light further and also will help to avoid loss of light. 1.- The condenser lens I used is from a car, so it has some sort of border around. I used some rigid copper wire to hold it in place. 2.- Use some electrical tape to hold the condenser lens to whatever you're going to use to separate it from the LED. 3.- Use the pliers and some more copper wire to fix the lens to the heat sink. 4.- Give it a try with your bench power supply (Don't have one yet? See here to make your own) Here is the video of how I've done it.
step 5: Dismanteling the LCD Before taking apart the LCD: -Try the screen and see if it works. -Don't take the protective film off the LCD. That will be the VERY last step (as it will protect the LCD from scratches). -Put some tape on top of the protective film and write down some letters (like DVD). This will help you always see what is the top and bottom of the LCD, even without having to turn it on. A picture is worth a thousand words... so I guess a video is worth even more..... so.... Here is the video of how to take apart and desolder the back light. I tried to do everything in front of the camera, but some times I forgot, sorry! :)
And here the video of how to desolder the backlight.
Image Notes 1. Cover the wires with some electrical tape.
step 6: LCD Mount A good and easy way to mount the LCD is to use the same case where it goes. 1.- File a little bit the with the dremel the 4 holding points where the circuit was screwed to the casing. (This is done so you can fix the LCD with some washers as you can see in the video) 2. - Place the LCD with the wires at the top. 3.- Use the same screws that used to hold the circuit with a few washers to hold the LCD in place.
step 7: PCB Fitting This is very important, as placing the LCD circuit near the LCD without blocking the LCD itself is vital for a good result. 1.- Place the circuit on top of the plastic that is holding the LCD and mark the two holes where the circuit will be fitted. 2.- File the holes a little bit until you can fix the screws you want to use. If you can take out of a old computer the type of screw I'm using (they are called standoffs screws), it would be better as these screws still separate the circuit from the case a little bit. 3.- Drill the case and, after protecting the LCD, use some epoxy to glue the screws. 4.- Fix the cables to something so you wont break it. I used a cable tie.
Image Notes 1. Hot glue or use some epoxy to glue the screw underneath
step 8: Schematic Here is the schematic. Place the voltage regulator in a good heat sink. With the LM350 I can change the voltage with the 5k variable resistor and at the same time I have the ammeter connected to make sure the amps will not raise 1.7A. (The LED is rated 1.8A but just to be on the safe side)
PLEASE NOTE :
I found a problem on the schematics, there shouldn't be connection between the anode of the 1n4001 and the negative of the 10uf.
Image Notes 1. Schematic with only one power supply for the LED, LCD, fan and speakers.
Image Notes 1. Schematic with only one power supply for the LED, LCD and fan.
Image Notes 1. Schematic with only one power supply for the LED and fan.
Image Notes 1. Schematic with only one power supply for the LED only.
Image Notes 1. Later I got rid of this condenser because is was giving problems.
step 9: LCD Stand From now on we are going to make everything able to stand in an upright position. This is going to allow us to play with the distances of everything to get the picture right. The first thing we'll be getting in an upright position is the LCD as it's the main point to get the other things lined up. 1.- I found some heat sink supports from an old amplifier. But you can use anything in a right angle. 2.- Mark where they'll go (Pay attention that they will not block any light.) 3.- Drill the case and screw to it. It is very important now that you are able to get the LCD in a straight position by measuring from the middle of the LCD to the holding surface. This measurement will have to be the same for the light source (LED with condenser lens) and the main projection lens.
Image Notes 1. Is very important that the LCD is i n a upright position.
step 10: Fit legs to the Light Source Now that we know the height of the centre of the LCD, we need to make everything line up with that. So the first thing is the light source. 1.- I found some plastic legs that will do the job, but you could even use some wood cut to size. 2.- Drill the heat sink where you think it will be a good place to fitted.
step 11: The Mirrors The mirrors came from the mirror of an OHP. 1. - Protect the mirror with some masking tape. 2. - Mark the centre of the mirror and take it to your local glaziers to get it cut. (normally they wont charge for such a small job) 3. - I found a couple of angle metal things, and with some double sided tape I held the mirror to it. (This will be provisional, as once you know the right position of the mirrors you can reinforce it with some hot glue.)
step 12: The Projector Lens I was really lucky, because the projector lens I'm using has some sort of metal support, and the height was almost exactly with the centre of the LCD. All I had to do was drill a couple of holes to fit it to the wood.
step 13: Cutting the Fresnel Lens When cutting the fresnel lens you could use many tools. I decided to use the angle grinder to be quicker, but this is not a toy, is very dangerous if you don't know how to use it. You should wear a mask (the fumes from the fresnel when cutting aren't very healthy), safety glasses and gloves. But you could cut the fresnel with a dremel or some other thing. 1.- Mark the centre of the fresnel. (see the video to know how to) 2.- Use some masking tape to protect the fresnel as any big marks on the fresnel will be visible on the projected image. 3.- Now that we know the centre of the LCD, we want to do the same on the fresnel. So measure the space from the base of the projector and the circuit, paying good attention to the center (see the video to know what I mean. Do your best, if i ts not right right on the center is still ok) 4.- After cutting the fresnel, tape the borders to stop the fresnel coming apart, or dust getting in between them.
step 14: Work out the Distances We now have everything ready to work out the distances This really depends on your personal setting of the condenser lens, LCD, mirrors, lenses... etc.. - The best thing to do is play with the distances and mark everything once you're happy with the result. - Try the distances where you will think the projector is going to be. Some lenses wont focus from too far and too close. This is my setting. I used two mirrors to keep the enclosure as small as possible.
Image Notes 1. First try. 1 meter from t he wall.
step 15: The AV connectors I recycled the AV connectors. If you are doing the same: 1.- Cut the circuit board with some scissors, or with the dremel. 2. - Make sure the lines on the circuit board are cut. 3.- Solder the cables 4.- Hold the cables with a cable tie.
Image Notes 1. Use a cable tie to hold the cables in place.
step 16: The Box My box is made of wood and plywood. I made it to fix the top to the base, so they will be no screws showing in the sides. 1.- Before making the enclosure, take measures of the height of everything, and mark them so you don't place something where it will be in the way. 2.- Once you have the enclosure ready, cut and drill all the holes needed for the sound system, buttons, speakers, connectors, fan, etc.... Also make a few holes under the heat sink of the LED to allow air flow. 3.- Use some two part filler If you're using plywood and want to make it smooth. 4.- Paint the enclosure. The way I painted mine was with a couple of coats of oil based primer and then with another couple of coats of oil base paint. (it took forever, with this cold I had to wait around 12h between coats) 5.- Is a good idea to fit a couple of small legs at the bottom, and some sort of leg at the front that can make the front of the projector go up and down. I used a leg with that feature, but if you don't have anything like that you could always use a screw. 6.- Paint the base in matt black so they will be no reflections. I use some black shoe polish, and it did work well.
Image Notes 1. Provisional box
Image Notes 1. The shoe polishing paste it was good to paint the base in black .
step 17: Sound System My sound system came from the computer speaker. If they work at 12v even better as you need to drop down the voltage to 12v for the LCD. 1.- Take it apart. 2.- I modified the circuit so I could use the sound system switch as main switch. see pics 3.- Later I change the LED of the sound circuit for a blue LED, which looks cooler!
Image Notes 1. Power Switch 2. Power bridge . On substitution for the old switch. 3. Power input. 12v 4. Speaker output
step 18: Power Connector I fitted the power connector once I knew where it could go. 1.- Mark where the power connector can go from the inside. 2.- Use a needle or a small nail to make a small hole from the inside out. 3.- Drill the hole for the connector.
Image Notes 1. This is the 20v charger I'm using.
step 19: Hot Glue Now you can hot glue everything to the case. Wait until the glue is fully dry before closing the case.
Image Notes 1. Hot glue
Image Notes 1. Fan (Blowing air to the ouside) 2. Right speaker 3. Power connector for the LCD 4. Composite connector 5. AV connectors 6. Left speaker 7. Sound circuit.
Image Notes 1. I did hot glued the 5v fixed regulator to the fan. This one doesn't need heat sink. It will not get very hot.
step 20: USB Multimedia Reader Here are a few pictures of the multimedia player. I had a portable DVD player that din't want to read DVD's any more so I took it apart and place it inside the projector.
Image Notes 1. USB input is what we'll be using. 2. I got rid of this. 3. I got rid of the outside buttons as well
Image Notes 1. I took the USB connector form is old USB hub ( it was USB 1.0 anyway) 2. This will cover the IR sensor as well as the state LED 3. Put some masking tape if you already paint the enclosure to avoid cracks wile cutting.
Image Notes 1. Sound cables. 2. USB cables 3. Power cables 4. Composite cables. The LCD I'm using has to composite inputs, so one is connected to this to use the internal player, and the other one is connected to the AV connector, to connect anything from the outside to the projector.
Image Notes 1. I did cat the IR because it was safer to solder. 2. Same with the LED 3. I mount the IR and the LED in a board which is situated right under the usb connector.
Image Notes 1. Protect with electrical tape before soldering.
Image Notes 1. 8GB pendrive full of movies!
step 21: Finishing Touches Everything seems to be working ok, you're happy with the projector, but maybe there is some light coming out of the box. Use some foam like in the video to cover around the lens and other areas where some light is coming out. I also place a few labels with some rub-on letters like you can see in the pictures.
Image Notes 1. Use some foam where the light may be coming out.
Image Notes 1. I place this separator, so there will be no light getting to the mirror besides the light that gets through the LCD.
Image Notes 1. I use a permanent marker to paint it in black to avoid reflections.
Image Notes 1. This should really say composite, but it was too long.
step 22: You're Done! Well done! You were able to make your own projector with an LED, which will l ast almost forever. Now relax on the sofa while you watch your favourite movie on a 2m diagonal screen. (by the way, for the screen I'm using an Ikea roller blind , works GREAT!) I hope you like this Instructable, I did work hard to make it as good as I can, but maybe I missed a step or something, so just ask if you have any questions.
step 23: Cleaning the Projector After some time using the projector you may see that there is small marks or dust on the projected image. That is normal, the LCD could get some dust or something that needs to be cleaned from time to time (not very often though) First take the lid off your projector. Here is a video of how to do it if you have a enclosure like mine.
To clean the projector you could use a blower cleaner. I use this blower that is to clean my camera. It only takes a minute.
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Comments 50 comments Add Comment
alexr15 says:
view all 329 comments Mar 15, 2010. 5:49 AM REPLY
hi. could i use the lcd from a touch screen mp4? i dont want to destroy it for nothing.
oli1122 says:
Mar 18, 2010. 10:50 AM REPLY A touch LCD and LCD are two completely different ball games, A touch LCD will require a MUCH brighter light source as the Liquid is twice as dense. The reason for this is if you push lightly on a normal non-touch LCD you see circular pattens appear. By changing the density of the liquid in side you can press on the screen without distorting the image. So I don't think it will work Sorry. :(
newtonn2 says:
Mar 18, 2010. 12:28 AM REPLY
I would not use a touch screen, it will be more difficult, and in some cases impossible to use
oli1122 says:
Mar 12, 2010. 10:44 AM REPLY My Projector is Finished click below to see some results ( I realy dont like the vid because it looks nothing like real life. In Real life it looks brighter and the corners are not missing. www.youtube.com/watch Here are some pictures. picasaweb.google.co.uk/107034076847908401891/ProjectorPicsAndVids#slideshow
oli1122 says: here is my youtube channel plz subscribe www.youtube.co.uk/MCRskullz
Mar 12, 2010. 10:44 AM REPLY
oli1122 says:
Mar 12, 2010. 10:45 AM REPLY
My Next Project is a FULL HD 1080P Projector will make instructble and is newtonn will let me put a link here
newtonn2 says:
Mar 18, 2010. 12:26 AM REPLY
Of course! I will put a link of your instructable once is finish!
mcastles says:
Mar 13, 2010. 3:00 AM REPLY
Nice! Did you put your video camera in night mode? I found that helped for me.
oli1122 says:
Mar 13, 2010. 11:40 AM REPLY Yeh. im happy with the results but my next projector is 1080P where im using a 500W Floodlight and a 15" Full 1080P HD screen so it should be fun. But this projector is great for being portable because I can watch films on my wall or anywhere. So thanks Newtonn for all of your help :P
oli1122 says:
Mar 12, 2010. 10:42 AM REPLY My Projector is Finished click below to see some results ( I realy dont like the vid because it looks nothing like real life. In Real life it looks brighter and the corners are not missing. www.youtube.com/watch Here are some pictures. picasaweb.google.co.uk/107034076847908401891/ProjectorPicsAndVids#slideshow
newtonn2 says:
Mar 18, 2010. 12:24 AM REPLY Hey....... I love it! good job!. I like the size of it, it's really small. Try to record the video with the camera in night mode. that'll help to see better the result.
oli1122 says:
Mar 12, 2010. 10:43 AM REPLY
here is my youtube channel plz subscribe www.youtube.co.uk/MCRskullz
KcPower says:
Jan 17, 2010. 10:54 AM REPLY
Can i use any mirror?
ngaiki says:
Mar 12, 2010. 11:48 AM REPLY you might wanna make yourself a FS mirror from an ordinary mirror. get a box of "paint remover", spray or spread them across the back side of the mirror (the surface with blue or gray color) then wait for around 15 mins, finally rinse it with tap water, you'll then get your own FS mirror with just a few dollars =]
newtonn2 says:
Jan 18, 2010. 8:43 AM REPLY
It would be better if you can find an optical mirror.
marvelousmixinmiguel says:
Mar 5, 2010. 9:06 AM REPLY
Hello Newtonn2 I just ran across your diy LED Projector. I'm hoping you could answer my question on the lens. I found the following on ebay and wanted to know if this lens would work for the project. It's a project that does not work but parts are in great condition. Any info is greatly appreciated. Aspect Ratio: 4:3Data Compatibility: XGA, SVGA, VGA, Macintosh® and 1080i/720p HDTV compatibleImage Size (diagonal): 2.5 feet to 18.6 feet Native Resolution: Native SVGA 800x600Projection Methods: Front/rear, ceiling/desktopVideo Compatibility: Full NTSC, NTSC 4.43, PAL, and SECAMContrast Ratio: 500:1 full on/full offDisplay: DLP™ technology by Texas InstrumentsLight Source: 270 Watt SHP lamp, 2000 hoursProjection Lens: 1.25:1 manual zoomThrow Ratio: 1.61 to 2.0:1 Thanks Miguel
newtonn2 says:
Mar 8, 2010. 1:29 PM REPLY If the projector is DLP you can't really use anything to make a DIY projector. sorry. Only an old LCD projector with a lcd of about 3" will allow you to reuse the lens.
marvelousmixinmiguel says:
Mar 9, 2010. 7:04 AM REPLY
Thanks for the update Newtonn2.
jani123 says:
Mar 8, 2010. 12:47 AM REPLY What is the model number of the LCD screen? I bought a very similar LCD monitor from ebay and it had LQ035NC111, which is only 320x240. Is this one really 640x480?
newtonn2 says:
Mar 8, 2010. 1:42 PM REPLY I have not idea. I don't really know where the casing is to check the number. Sorry you got a bad one, I thought there was only the 640*480 mode.
jani123 says:
Mar 8, 2010. 2:13 PM REPLY In the taking monitor apart video at 1:30 there seems to be a sticker behind the lcd element. I hope you did not throw the part with the sticker away.
newtonn2 says:
Mar 9, 2010. 12:17 AM REPLY
I will check and see if I can find i t for you.
oli1122 says:
Mar 8, 2010. 10:20 AM REPLY
Hi Newtonn Iv just finished insalling all the parts in my box and im waiting for a Fresnel lens to arrive then im done. all works fine i just want the picture bigger so i was playing with some left over Fresnel lens and found it enlarged my picture so i ordered a nice new clean one. Will be finished by the weekend will post pictures then. :P thankx olly :P
newtonn2 says:
Mar 8, 2010. 1:45 PM REPLY
Excellent!! I will love to see it. I hope you finish soon!
mcastles says:
Mar 8, 2010. 1:05 PM REPLY
Cool, I want to see it too! : )
oli1122 says:
Mar 9, 2010. 11:17 AM REPLY Yeh will be takeing some pictures tomorow because here in the UK its 7 oclock and im sitting down for film will take some pics in the next few days because im a bit tired but soon i promise
renavspainatal says:
Mar 8, 2010. 6:33 AM REPLY
Hello newtonn2, thank you for the how to ;) I've got one question: The last schematic is the one that is corrected(the one with real pictures)? Thank you
newtonn2 says:
Mar 8, 2010. 1:44 PM REPLY The last schematic is correct, but it only shows how to connect the led. The other ones have a fault, but is already mention on the instuctable where the error is. Thank you
marvelousmixinmiguel says: It's it safe to say any LCD or DLP projector lens would work fine with this project? http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=as+is+projector&_frs=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m359 Thanks, Miguel
Mar 5, 2010. 9:16 AM REPLY
newtonn2 says:
Mar 8, 2010. 1:32 PM REPLY NOT! only lens of a LCD projector that has a big lcd like 3" will all ow you to use the lens. Maybe other LCD Projectors with smaller LCD Will allow you to use the lens, but I will not buy one just in case.
johannesgj says:
Mar 4, 2010. 11:37 PM REPLY
nice project!!! i have a question: is it possible to incorporate two or more leds to make it power ansi heavy? kind regards johannes
newtonn2 says:
Mar 8, 2010. 1:25 PM REPLY
It is possible but it will make difficult to have a evenly light screen.
kakadoo14 says:
Mar 3, 2010. 11:56 AM REPLY
First: Great project you got there, these kind of projects inspire me to do things on my own, to explore possibilities :) Second: Where I live, I couldn't find any fresnell lens, only if I buy them from other country, and with the shipment and stuff will cost a lot more. I did find in a store some pvc (i think) lenses that look very similar to fresnell, they are magnifying sheets. They have the same texture as a fresnel. (I've never seen fresnel except for pictures on the internet). Do you think i t will work ? Third: Excuse my poor english grammar skills (I'm from Europe)
newtonn2 says:
Mar 8, 2010. 1:15 PM REPLY
Thank you. I think it may work as it does more or less the same
Rascafr says:
Feb 20, 2010. 3:35 AM REPLY Hello Newtonn2, I think as Tymenel that there is an error of wiring in your schematic. I looked in the "datasheet" of the LM350, and I deduced the following assembly from it ( by taking for exemple yours ). Could you say it to me if that will work ? Thanks ( Excuse my bad english, I'm french ;)
newtonn2 says:
Feb 20, 2010. 6:17 AM REPLY
Thank you I found the problem on the schematic, is not what Tymenel suggested, there should be not connection between the anode of the 1n4001 and the negative of the 10uf. If you get that of the diagram the rest is fine, is exactly as I'm using it just fine.
Rascafr says:
Feb 22, 2010. 3:54 AM REPLY
Ok, thank you very much :) I just want to know, is it really necessary to put a heatsink on the LM350 ? ( for save space )
newtonn2 says:
Feb 25, 2010. 11:18 PM REPLY
YEAH! The Lm350 will get very very hot, and will burn if is not in a heatsink.
Rascafr says:
Feb 26, 2010. 9:19 AM REPLY
lol indeed :-P Just a last question, I saw that your projector have one " S-Video " input. However, it does not seems to me to have seen entry of this type on the TFT screen ( only "composite " inputs ). Had you used an adapter, or an home-made assembly ? Thanks
newtonn2 says:
Feb 26, 2010. 11:26 AM REPLY I was planing to use an adapter, but later I decided not to use it as i have two inputs one inside for the multimedia reader and other outside .
Rascafr says:
Feb 28, 2010. 6:21 AM REPLY
Ok, thank you ! Otherwise, about the heat, is that the fan blows or aspire air from the box ?
newtonn2 says:
Feb 28, 2010. 9:21 AM REPLY
It blows air out of the box
Rascafr says:
Mar 4, 2010. 9:49 AM REPLY
Super ! Thank you very much !
tanksponge says:
Feb 28, 2010. 8:17 PM REPLY First off, great device you have built here, now I have one question lol. I cant seem to find a lcd screen smaller than 7inchs. My Fresnel lense is only 2inchs x 2inchs and the actual lense is only 1 inch. I removed them from an old slide projector. Is that to small? Can i fix that by spacing my l cd farther from the lense somthing? I also plan on using a 30 watt high lumens compact flouresnt bulb as well. Appreciate it!
newtonn2 says:
Mar 1, 2010. 1:38 AM REPLY
Thank you! There are lots of small LCD's on ebay. If you using 7" you will need to find a bigger fresnel and the slide projector lens will not work. You will need a OHP lens. The slide projector lens will only work with LCD of 2" or less.
tanksponge says:
Mar 1, 2010. 2:10 AM REPLY
ahh bummer, well thanks for the reply..ill get lookin for more materials.
TheWanderer says:
Feb 28, 2010. 9:57 PM REPLY
I have a question, is there a way to use a slide projector and an LCD to replicate the results of this design?
newtonn2 says:
Mar 1, 2010. 1:37 AM REPLY
Yeas you could do that ! there is an instructable about how to do that.
KcPower says:
Jan 17, 2010. 6:41 AM REPLY
Where can I find a projector lens?
newtonn2 says: That really depend on where you are.
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Jan 18, 2010. 8:44 AM REPLY
