R
elpe
1enu-
en
\11
\1\
Re't.1urant Menus
Xt'
Acknowledgments
Xt'll
Preface
XIX
The Chef as Artist
1
Meet Your Medium
23
Compoing Flavors
37
Compo~ing a Dish
61
Why Food Matches?
87
Food ~1atche~ Made in Heaven ~ea'ioning Matche . . Made m Heaven
Composing a Menu
223
Common Accompaniment' to Entrees Evolvmg a Cuisine
196
260
289
The Evolution of Leading Chef' CUismes De~ert Island lists
323
Culinary Art as Communion Re (lurec,
399
BIOgraphies of Chefs
Index
403
409
Ahour the Authors
425
391
307
B\ krm and heauty, we're not referring strictly to Food IS very much theater [he IDL.leasmdv popular, and in some cases misguided, - Jam. Be" c; emphals that Sl'me chefs have placed on the visual presentation of food. In jetermll1U1g what form a dish will take, chefs have the opportunity to conve\ their own sense of beauty with every decision they make about a dish, from the selection of ingredients and their pairing with other ingredients, to Its cookmg techniques, to its presentation on a plate, to its order of presentation on a menu. Just as philosophers have suggested that art is "about" something, and conveys feelings toward that subject matter, so does Alice Waters tell us that "Being a really good cook has to do with having a point of view." Throughout history, great culinarians have likened the culinary arts to arts ranging from architecture to painting to theatre. The press has even used artistic analogies when describing particular chefs. For example, Los Angeles Times food writer Charles Perry once likened chef Joachim Splichal to the late rock musician Jimi Hendrix, who was known for his
artistic daring. "Cooking is indeed an artistry," says Bradley Ogden. "It's a form of creativity and expression, especially the more defined you become with your cuisine. The direction you decide to take It In-your per~onal styleusually depends on your background and your education. I grew up in Michigan, and my cuisine i more traightforward Amencan. Unheknownst to me, I wa developing a palate back when I wa five or IX year old, helng reared on organic blackberrie and wall-eyed pike" "We are certainly associated With the art," Gray Curnonsky's belief that "La cuisine! Thats when Kunz agrees. "There's no question ahout that. But the thmgs taste /Ike themselves· IS none other than affiltatlon hide~ an enormou am unt of hard work. the artist's precept. "Respect your medium This work I very stressful-hoth phy ically and on the transposed Into the world of food. mind. What helps the chef is the 'Imph: de~lre to cre- -RrchCi'd 0 ey ate di he that are con tandy on a very hlf~h le\'el. It' a ,hame you c, n't put me of them on canvas!" Wayne 1 1 i .h, who once tudled architecture, POint- out that "Architecture In the Middle Age wa~ the mother of the art. In or,ler to he
What Leading Chefs Think
by customers, food critics, and the culinary community . How hd edch of th three considerations played a role m the perception of the Culmary art! e ile WI hd . thhe fmaJOrity of ea mg c e s we Inter_ viewed agree on the potential for artistry within the culinary expenence, a few express hesitations about the use of the term. This is perhaps not Surpris_ ing, given that chefs have evolved from a profeSSion historically viewed as domestic labor into one that now boasts celebrity chef-restaurate urs. Throughout this transformation, they have largely maintained a professional spirit of modesty and service to the customer, and some chefs still feel uncom_ fortable with the elitist connotations of calling their profession an art. Michael Romano is one leading chef who has expressed some discomfort With the comparison of food to art. "I think there's a danger of getting too much into the idea that 'I am an artist.' For myself, I like to be in touch with Cooking is an art that needs to evolve and what I enjoy cooking, and what my customers enjoy change on the basis of its methods and materi- eating," he says. "It's not just 'This is my artistic creals. its organization-and even of the whole ation-take It or leave it.' A restaurant is about nur. concept of the role of the chef turmg, about saying, 'Welcome to my home.' It's an -Pierre TWlsgros mteractive proces~ m which you provide your guests with something they're gomg to mgest, going to put in their bodies. It's a very intimate thinu, and they ~hould have a ilY in it. Chefs shou ld be flexible." Am,try abo carne_ With it the connotation of originality. However, it took years before chef. dared defy cla"ical tradition to begin experimenting with their own dt-he. The French chef~ who pioneered nou~'elle cuisine in the 1960" repre emed a ~Iant ,tep wwarJ bringing the culinary wl)r1d into its own. Once creativity \\'a unlea~hed m French and, subsequently and espeCially, American kitchen~ m the la,t few decade, there was no turning back. "Before nOlH'elle cuisine hit America, there was not th is 'interpreti\'e' ,pirit. What we learned in ~chool, and what all great restaurant Jid, wa dlshe like duck a l'oranRt' and \"eal car. You made the clas~ic saUl.:e'-Y~'U wouldn't ever have made an or.lOge hoilandai e sauce," say~ Chri ~ chle lO!!e r "But nouvelle cuisine openeJ cooking up to interpretation. A I ng a yOll ru k to the fundamental prinCIple of good food, then y u "ere allowed to expenment And (ha('s what I think pened c Ion
Chefs and Professional Cooking
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up til thl ountry, because it allowed young people to come to it and we Jldn't h.·w e to do the same junk that went on before us. "I 'owelle cUIsine was a movement in France that was a rededication to the b.l I": fundamentals of good food. The chefs said, 'No more sloppinesswe're not going to thicken sauces so much because what the thickening does IS cover up lack of flavor with texture. We're going to really be careful with our vegetables.' There was a little bit of Japanese aesthetic in there, too-smaller portions, clearer flavors. They said, 'We're not going to be so concerned about following the classics. We're going to take all the best cooking fundamentals out of the classics, and as long as we stick to those, that's what's ,n Important. Chefs have since embraced the opportunity to be creative with, and expressive through, food, and American chefs-widely considered to be the most innovative in the world-are now viewed as world class. Just as the artistic community has over time shifted its center from Paris to New York City, so has the culinary community. Lydia Shire cites the intense "seriousness among American chefs" as evidence that the profession is moving to new levels of respectability and accomplishment. "American chefs have really Jumped ahead in the food world," notes
ARE THERE THREE CATEGORIE OF CHEFS?
Trade
Craft
AT(
Category
"BurgerFlippers"
"Accomph hed Chcf ..
"Culinary Ani.,t,"
Customer Goal
Survival
Enjoyment
Entertainment
Chef's Intention
FiliI Feed
-:an,f'iI Please
Tran cenJ/ Tranport
Off- BroaJway Theatre Ticket
BroaJ\\IlY
Price of Lunch Who Detennines Meal
Cu,wmer ("Have It Your Wa\")
Cbef' Primary Repertoire
Hamburger5
Number of ens Affected u
tomer
Lea~e
a 'ng
""m full."
Cu tomer/Chef
Orehe tTO Ticker Chef (Ta ring Menu) Chef'. own 01 he
)
6
"That wa dehclou."
"Llft
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wonderful."
ShIre, "and are conking some of the most exciting food in the world todav." Yet not all American chefs are culmary artists. We envision chefs as falling into one of three categories along a continuum (see chart on page 7). For the vast majority of America's three million-plus chefs and cooks, this is a trade, typically defined as "skilled work." We'd place the majority of (but perhaps not all) "burgerflippers" into thi· category. \Vhile all professional cher by definition conicier cooking to be their trade, there are some who also consider it a craft. As "ktll is developed with care and experience, and the talent for preparing deliclou food on a consistent basis is honed, "ome chefs elevate cooking to a craft. typically defined a, "an occupatil1n requinng special skill or art." And still other chef may emhrace both definitions while alSl) seeing the potential for arti trvat the hlghe t pr ctlce l t their pfllfesinn. At this level, in rare but unfor!!ett ble In-tance , YOLI c. n iind chef" whose culinary ~kill. combmed with unu uallma0tndtlOn an I cre,lt!vtty, truly elevates their profe "ion to an art. One' level Lompct n e .111 I intention ,h d chef lar~d\' de term me \\ h re n fall on the continuum.
Cooking as a Trade
\Vhethcr or not they thern~e1\'es are viewed that \\ely I) other, certain leading chet~
preter to \'le\\ c km a tr de. "In tf) m to un er mnd what .In I , and wh, t a craft is, and what ,j trade is, I've ah\a argued that I don't thmk co kmg houll be col1'llJereJ an art, for argument' . ke," ay Chn chle mger. "The rea,,( n I ay th,I[ I becau e I thmk It' a kill that gro\\ out f cwal human need-everyboll~ need to cook. Pe pIe don't need to create art; it' a choice that people m.tke. "What' at the heart of cooking for me i that it' a profe IOn. It never omethmg that I chose in order to expre m} elf creatively. I c,m ee other people argumg that it i , but to me it' more vi ccral and immcJI,lte, and it importance and mean 109 Ite in area other than ani tic exprtS Ion . The art or the magic that' involved 10 food I not 0 much 10 it rrepar ItlOn, but 10 eating WIth the people you eat It with, The rna IC I the mealttme. "In the begmntng of Escoffler' Ma CUISIne h write that If the rn m pnnclple 10 cook 109, the maIO one I to make the per n Whl m ~ )IJ r n
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hlPP ". I alway' read that to mean that, whatever we are , we're profeslog'
.tOn al .,-and If we serve food and someone doesn't like it, whether we or the
. . 'c'-. think it's the grandest creation, if we don't please the customer, then cntl we\'e faded. I don't think artists can fail like that."
C ft
Some leading chefs admit that cooking could Cooking as a ra arguably be called either an art or a craft. Jimmy Schmidt says, "I think it's safer to call it a craft. To capture the impreSSion or the dynamics of a certain mood or feeling is a lot tougher in food than it is in other media. But that doesn't mean that it's not creative." Other chefs believe that it starts out as a craft. "Cooking is a craft first," says Terrance Brennan. "Like a carpenter, we learn our trade through hands.' " 00 apprentlcmg. From its start as a craft, it can evolve into artistry. "The first few years (cooking] aren't a matter of style," says Jasper White. "I tell all my cooks when they come to work for me that it's really a matter of learning how to cook. The techniques and skills are universal, I think, to a certain extent. If I tell my cooks to make lobster bisque and how I want it to taste, the skill that it take for them to recreate my dish is the same skill that they would need to create their own food. So I really feel that before you reach the point of art, it' a craft. And without being really highly killed in the craft, I don't believe you can ever attain artistry---even if you get a few write-up in the magazlne ." Joyce Gold tein i al 0 careful to di tingUi h between tho e who practice thi prafe ion as a craft ver u an art. he agree that" me chef are arti t . And then there are lots of craft people. A craftsperson i someone who rna ter technique and can do a lot of dazzling tuff with technique. And that comes from practice, which i where school really helps a lot. "Arti try can come from people with virtually no kill with a knife at all. That' cookmg in the soul-and some people have that and some people don't. That you don't learn-that either you have, or don't have. It' like being a painter-you can be a very competent painter. You can learn how to grind your pigment and prepare your canvas. You can learn all thi tuffbut it' not going to give you soul. There are some people who have hitty technique, but they paint fabulously. The artistic i intuitive-and that comes from God know where. I couldn't begin to tell you." How should chef evaluate their impact? "When you cook, do you reach others with your message?" ask Goldstein. "With lots of technical tuff, dinm go, 'Ooooh!' But only the culinary artist wants to make food that pea-pi,e III remember With their mouths, not only with their ey that when 0d1-. taste It, they want to taste It again and again.
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"I don 't thtnk you have t be remvcntm' th wheel to be creative or a rti~ tlL. metllne the m t d sec nd out of the If S artistic people play with a very \tm lted palclte. Y, U pKk a'1d olher human bemgs your palate, you pICk your ran ge, you pick what lOterHowa d Ga'dn r ests you-and then you cook your h eart out. "How do you measure success as a chef? Well. did you get them m the gut? Did you get them in the heart? And, most importantly. diJ you get th m in the mouth? These should be your goals."
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What does it take to make the leap into the realm of artistry? "How do you learn to become a great piamst? Where does that come from? It' not ju~t learnmg how to punch the keyboard." says Bradley Ogden. "It's omething mure than that. A lot of it is natural ability-it' prohably 75 percent natural ability. Either you have it or you don't have It. orne of it can be tramed, but a lot of . can '" It t. Gary Danko says, "Cookmg i-, for me, the perfect halance of art and Clence. There' that creative endeavor within you that can think out the season~ and the tlavor pr fde . Then there', the cientlfic part-what is actualI) gam!.! n with the whl.k. It I'm blanchmg hroccolt, why IS it turnmg brown 10 the pan? A y u tlId) th t, you Ie rn that \lmetime it you conk a lot (t vegetable, 10 the ,line wat r" n aCI I wlil devt:\op. And If you cnok a green vegetable 10 th ( odie wJ[cr, It' g 10 to turn ,mny brown. l) these .Ire thmg you tart to Ie rn throu 'h clenee." Hubert ' lIer b ·lle,,1:' that creativity i rooteJ in ma. tering the cla.SIC~, ,m argument r Ill, term' the cr,1 t of co Jkin~ hefore attempting arti try. "If yuh \ e a (oundari n, Y u ere 'Ihle to pl'l)' d little 1m," he ays. "When you're learntnc [fiU ie at the beUtnlltn " y, u I r.. ctlCe calc. Once you Ie, rn, you tart to play ther pe Ie' ong. An I once you've le.trned th e, If you get really good. you might ,wn compe II1g, little hir. It' the elme tn co kmg. Once ~ou have a lot of tX nence, you might. tart t tnl:lu Ie a c uple In the hands of a oyal art san cook ng can be of ingrtJient that mIght n t have been mcluded b very good Indeed In the hands of a great chef [Paul) Roeu e, by [Paull Haeherlm, by fRo' rI Vcr 'Cft can be ublme othen.... ~e. III }be their half W ulJ ~t,m I on en I! But I R - dO" y you're tn ifferent country, with a different udl n c, and if you fed It' not JU t being done to hock, meume It can.... rk. Yl)U have to have a gUideline, though- nd thcn ~ou e n go a little bit n 'ht r little bit left."
Cooking as an Art
In the proce of hecoming a culm f) ftl t, Or ~ Kunz I th;ll th r I a point that you are not, and a pomt th t you ,lrc. Wh n ~ u'r 1.,1 t on your feelmg and mtult! m to a di h-the rtl t I nlln U[ t d I[ nr
li rice ()<:fml n ,md Johanne Killeen are quick 'lint ,-mt, "There are not th,lt many culinary {I I nh .1 ,m.1l1 proportion of chef fall Inta that aru't'. .,
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lteglJr)'
Cookmg IS at once onf: of the Simplest and rr:o t gratlfymg of the art" but to COOK well one muc;' love and respect food -\,/a' :
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Part of \\hdt characteri:es culinary artists is their expressiveness and [heIr dblhn to cook from their gut. "They have their own way of expressing them,eke,," says Daniel Boulud. "In food, the expression is more phy~ical and el11l)[[Onal. When creating great food, the taste is always memorable. Buts sometlme' the best food is not always the result of deep thought. 5ai11etlme~ It Imply falls together." Killeen and German agree. "We're most influenced-I don't want to
sa\' tntellectually or theoretically, because that's getting a little bit beyond what It really Is-hy our gut," says Killeen. "It's also very dangerous, when you ,tart talking In theoretical and philosophIcal terms," adds German. "It really i, almost like the death of a dIsh." Kdleen continues, "In terms of art and artl'try and food. it has a lot more to do WIth your gut than your intellect. There are certainly great intellectual artl ts. but there are also artists who Simply create from their gut. And I think that's more what we do than an\'thmg ele."
Customers
eu'tamer var') greatly In term~ of their knowledgeahility ahout food and Wine, not to mentlon peronal hl,tPry, !tfe
expenence, :md !tkes and di,ltke', whICh dffect nor only theIr p(ltentlal for enJOYing a dil11ng expenence but al,o f Ir interpreting \\ hat a chef m.IY he trymg to expre,,, in hIS or her food. Food' meanll1!.; lie, a~ mLlch 111 the CLl'>tomer's reception as it Joes 111 the chet" II1tentlon. For example, pre,entll1g four different cu'Swmer, With identical. "perfeC[" trawbern' tart might evoke four \ery different reactiom: fonJ memone 10 omeone who reLall~ picking and eatm,! ,trawherrie' as a child, alarm In ,mother who I' allergic to ~traw berne", ~ih in a third who may be on a dIet and concerned ahout the Jish\ calone or chole terol count. and e(>t.l'l 10 a fourth who ,pent the pnor even 109 hem'! fed 'trawherrie' hy a 100'er! Cu,romers' level of knowledge WIll al,o color their percertLon of the chef' profe~,ion Ibdf. The ~ame popular cookbook and televi Ion ,how that have ,erved to catapult leaJmg chef. mto hoU',eholJ name~ have perhap, 10 turn, done chefs a db,ervlce. In leading chefs' well-meaning enCllur3!!emcnt to home Loob that the~, too, (an Look the chef' three- Ilt four- tar iood at home, the~ have rerhap, omitted any mentIon ot the Ve,lT of trainIn!? md expenence that are behmd the re Ipe ,md mdeed the p~dCtlCe (If pro~ lonal cookmo-, leadm o- to the genera I pu bl' ll: mt gUided VICW that "an~lxxh c n k .!reat food."
"Perhap~ heL,lll e e\ crybody edt,
wayne Ih, "T here' "'''anescent, well so 15 the ballet 1 I h ~,., -Julia Crild simply no reference 10 t 1elr I\'e~ to \\ .It oJ re 11Iv !,'Te t , ' can do It require~ a frequent restaurant-goer to e\en culinary praCtitIOner . h' k about that to any extent. . begm to t m , I' h . "When you have cooking shows on te eVI,lon t at are reachmg IJut to , k the" bv necessity eliminate a great deal of skilb in order to domestic coo s, " " . ' 'I ble to the nons killed home cook, he pomts out. ma ke It a\'al a No book of which we're aware (other than the one you're holding) h~, ever case I ' I·) examl'ned how a culinary artist compose, hi~ or her creations ,
while scores of books have exammed the creative process of painters, musicians, and \\TlterS, for example-therehy helping the general puhlic t\l aprreciate the level of sophi. ticated thought and COnsCillUS deign that underlIe, their compo,ition" This ~urely enhances the le\'el of appreciation and respect the puHic has for such artist, In the economic hoom uf the 19 __\\, diner~ grew increasingl) famil Lar with gourmet mgreoLenr ,lOll me clming, fI.'suiring in more educated and discriminatmg palare . The grO\nh m nh.:rnb('r~hlp organi:atillns ,uch as the American In tLtute of ~ . me n I F, ..I (no The James Beard Fl1lmdatLon, which pon
r edu anonal \'en
dinner"), rdle t Ache
n an rea 100~h
rangll1g trl m II1gredlent t,lstmg, to'recial
phi t1l:.ltcd
It\.: ntt.:lc,
h I\e begun to come Into their O\\n, theIr e4ualh ,Ilh'entur-
au eu'tamer h \e enc lUr. 'cd their IOnO\'.It1on, Dmer' Vl)ICe' han' become louder \\ Jth the, d\'ent )f nn \Imer-poll publtcatll1n ~LL(h a tht' :ag-at urte) lIld Marcellmo' \\hlCh ummclflze their (lpinl!ln . There I a tnangular rei t10n hiP' m n J cheh, the tngre lienr \\ nh whlLh the~ chou e to c ,k, nd their cu toll1crs. '0[ onl} Joe c< obl1!!' ,mbigUlt~ ~ n an tern fr m i 'uttlltanan rOot, hut d lubtle tI 0 tr III eu tamef u ed w a hha\ e It }UlIf WI}" menta!Jt} \\hen it come to iood. Thert~ I little r m left tur her' ere t1\ e expre Ion \\ hen thcy'n: re rond109 to reljue t fOf uh t1tUtl I1! nd au e "on the ide." Gl\'en the profe lonalt m dem,mJeJ b} hotel cookmg e peCI til), II !) Danko admit, "I d m't panicularl~ cook for m} elf .1n}m re, I h ve m\ fll\ r pnnciple , anJ I ha\ e UI he ea >ned the \\ a} I \\t)uld e,l~on them, Jnd th gaml he on the dl he are for me. Bur m a hotel re taurant, It I' not unll u II for people to Come m and tan rippmg our food apart, I Jon't Imlld \\ hen reI pic rC\.!uest thtng Itke serving the uce on the .d" but pc ric \\111 rd r meat dl h I l ffer \\Jth a tarrag n essence md 1 '/ d n't v. tnt t lIT I there.' Chef reall~ h \e to learn t rem vc them' h per Ik II fr I food. Wh n v.e 'pened, we'd get cust m rs wh r I red uttl tI 2
~u to under tand what you're ~eeing," says Miller One ch e f mentioned . . ' how
\v
the star system for rat'Ing restaurants but a r artl ular cnnc Wished to abohsh . wa~ not able to do -0 because It sold newspapers! The LUlinary community includes organizations such as Th e James . Beard FuundatlOn, .host of The James Beard Awards, the debut of which in lu~l made the culinary arts the only non-performing art with its own tele\"Ised awards program, a,nd which have played an invaluable role in bringing recognition to Amenca s leading chefs.
The Art of Composition
As previously mentioned, the general public is probably ill-aware of the level of thought and care that goes into culinary artists' compositions. In the evolution or elev~tton of food from a strictly utilitarian Composition: the act of composmg, or putting realm to an epicurean one, such compositions become together a whole by combming parts, an arrangeincreasingly intricate. The moment of composition is ment of the parts of a work of art so as to form a the point at which a chef has the opportunity for unified. harmonious whole. expreSSIOn and to largely determine what a customer will receive. It is important for chef~ to understand how their decisions Will mfluence the end result. "There are some cooks who create Just for the sake of creating. But when it comes down to eating a dish, It has to make sense," Insists Bradley Ogden. "If one flavor is fighting with another, and too many different things are going on, it doesn't work." imilarly, George Germon and Johanne Killeen mention that they heard Fauchon's pa~try chef Pierre Herme dLCU . "the architecture of taste."
t!nue that cycle, wherea~ white men po"e sed them and hroke the cycle. Then, at one point, the Indian \~ent anJ ~tole back the gift, they'd given the white men, and that's where the term "Indian ~IVlng" came from. All of thl helped put ~ome per pective on how our pre ent culture is so damaging to the creative proce . In term of what chef are domg, 0 often they're trying to figure out what the current trend i and what dm:ctlon they ~hould go 10 to rlerue a market. They're so husy orienting themselves commerCially that they lo;e touch With what It i- they want to eat. For example, one of my cooks presented for my cflt14ue a dl h of one fish rolled in another fish with forcemeat ruffed inside, then rolled In somethmg el e, erved With nuts and mu hrooms and herbs and lettuce leaves around it, and two butter uce . I Imply a"ked him, "Would )()u want to eat that?" I thmk It was Gael Greene [of Nett' York magazine] who once wrote of Aurora [a now-defunct 1 nhattan re taUTant that was opened In rhe mid-1980s by Joe Baum and Gerard Pengo), "Right now ) 're bu y tn 109 to figure out what ew Yorker want to eat. We look forward to their getting over h rdle nd cooking what they feel like c king and what they would want to eat."
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"He pointed out the idea that there is--or sh ould be-structure as well as taste and balance going on in a dish," they say. "Even if there are twelve ingredients in a dessert, each should have a specific purposewhether it adds sweetness or tartness or texture. And all of them should come together to work as a whole." The starting point is a classical foundation: some, and preferably much, familiarity with ingredients and techniques. Given the intemattonallarder of ingredients and repertoire of techniques avadable to chefs, the number of different compositions that can result is \'lrtually limitless. History has tamed this potential chaos through the relentless testing of vario us ingredient combinations and the resulting development of classical flavor combinations and dishes that represent the most ucce . ful marriages of flavors and ingredients. These can proVIde an I!1valuable starting point for chefs, and are explored In great detail later in this book. Cookmg IS for capturing the taste of the food and In adJltlon, a chef's individual preferences will, then enhancmg It, as a composer may take a over time and in the nght circumstances (of creative theme and then delight us WIth hIS vanatlons frt:edom), give rt,e to the chef' own personal style of -FE'r'] nd Po nt cookl!1g. \Vhtle thb i a Cllmplex and probably largely unconsciou proce" it 1, compn'ed of a chef's reactions to every cooking technique he or )he ha evcr een u ed or evt:ry combination of flavors he or he has ever tasted-and I!1stantly accepted for or rejected fw m suhseljuent use in hi or her repertoire. Thc work of a chef and the appreciation of a dini ng expenence I' unique-and uniquely demanding-in that it draw upon eac h of the five sen es. Whtle the sense of ta.,te i' the one mo't heav ily empha i:eJ, the sen e of smell is just a , if not more, important. While the tongue can ta te only four hasic flavors, the sense of smell pruviJe us with many more ensory impressions. Similarly, the sense of touch-and one';. ,Irpre~l
The Realm of the Senses
16
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Bringing Creativity and Point of View to ... Asparagus It LllokllH! \H' re ne\'er an art, but simply a skill, you would hand five different 'd up Wit 'h " a bunch
I. Dun,!{eness Crab and Green Asparagus Salad uith MeJer Lemon 2. Grilled Asparagus uith Olit-e Bread Crumbs and Olit'e Oil 3.
Aspara~us
u'ith Dried Shrimp \ 'inai~etre
4. Watercress Salad uith Gnlled Asparagus and Red Onion 5 , AsparaKus Soup u lth a
\l
eet Pepper COl/lis
• • • a. Damel Boulud-Re Ulurant Damel , I eu York City b, Susanna Foo---Susanna Faa, Philadelphia c. Mark Ped and Nanc)' llterwn-Campande and La Brea Bakery, La Angeles
d. Chm chle rnger-Ea t Coast Gnll , Bo ton e, Alree Water -Chez Pam sr , Berkeley , California Reade familiar wuh the chef' unique tyle!' of cuisine hould have a little ea ier time With thi ' than thoe who don't. But there are certainly enough c1u in the above information to get you tarted. For example, are th re regIOn, I or ethnic a ociation with any of the ingredients or technlljue mentioned? Which chef would have the mo t ready acce to them! P mt of \'lew i not limited to the re tau rant experience, nor to the rl teo It I e\'en expre ed through the de criprion of a single di h on a menu.
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A
t
r,Hrtck O'Ctmndl remmd, u' , "Thl . bl1, me~ tford the opp rtUnItv t ' l~~ t'llent th1t draw on e\'en, ,Ing , ' Yl)l1 h,\ve, but It s not vle\\cd th t \\ 1\ vet It ,S \,Ie\\'e Jas' 1110re t,t' ,'1 technical e.'pertl,e .t)r
I
about." Our aim is to exam me the opportunities tor composltll)nal chOlle pen to the chef-specifically, the compoitlOn of f/at'ors , the compo<,ition ot dl hes. and the comrosition of dishes into mentis-and how these ch oice CUlllUlati\'ely evolve into a chef's unique style of cuisine. Whether the reader is a chef, or a home cook wishing to better understand decision making in the compositlonal process, or a restaurant diner wishmg to better understand some of what goes into the creatIon of a dmmg experience, we hope the end result will be the. ame: a stronger appreciation for the talent-, efforts, and accompli hments of Amenca's treasure of culmary artists.
A Final Word
B~aut\' I'> often in the eye of the beholder. Snme audi-
ence member might be moved to tears while attending the upera, \\ htle other Hung m the "llne row dre bored to te;\ r~ . Likely, some uf them hlllg a mOT edu dte I emd kno\\le,lgeable appreciation [0 what they are xpenen Ill.!, and 0 the e '[ <:nen(e I nllt the same! O ne' con~CIOU ne hm!! n Imp( nant el m nt to ,tn~ ,Ie'thetl( e.·perienle-mcludmg that f I dm r or hef. Tl) nke I pullf exampl ,thmk a th' "~!.lgIL Eye" plLture' th,lt ,1ppear e"cf) \\ here Ir m the und) comll,; to let - ellmf.; hoob, If YUlt IUllk at them one wa , the} 're merel col rtuluna ( n paper-not otfen lve, hut ,Irgu.lhly 11 t creat an, el her, But If) u knO\\ hl)\\ to 10 k mtn the pllotu re, It I ~ plh"lhle to ~ee an 1m t maglloal thrcc-dmlen I n II Image .• ot everyone C, IO see the 3-D nnm!e; It take knowl .!c nd pr<1 tl e. But the potentlal to see It I '1!I\3} there. And JU t hecau>c some pe pIc e It • nJ other lall't doc n't meCln that It Joc n't eXI t. Imtlarh, 111 ~ , me omer I);IVC nc\ er h \ 1 ,) dmmg expenenloe that ha moved them on the le\e1 of art. But tho e ,f II who h \e been 0 mm'c I know that thl potential eXI t . For dmer , the . ecret I to know th,J[ the potential i th re .1II I (0 oren them elve tll It. For chef, the elorcr lie 10 ~bP lfln y to realoh th Ir Cutomer in thl manner. "In order ro lore te \\\th (,)00, or to lre, te It ht: , you really have to ha\'e the end III mmd," y Jlfnlll) l.hm ldl "You ha\e to percel\ e a pIcture or a VI Ion of whdt }llU're tr~ mg [() ere te, tnt! (hen ,our palette to paint with lin order) to create th It pictu re I } ur 10 redl ent and} nur te hnlque~. The mgredlent re the rhmg th t r m t \ Ible, that }oU can ce, and ho\\ you put (hem III nd v. heth 'r th 'r 10 th
. . . (oE~ 8Dd I "11rina abcM "' -.~1 ..... Jefoerated by the actiftdon cl many IMlllIOries are created the wne way. 8Dd that why~_ . .,Ill -life are very VIVid beeauae they've got all cl your . . ."" look al: your food memories, and you can probably rea_a. .L"""'"_ belt med. you've ever had, you can probably bed mrow. But tell me whal: you ate thtee weea ... Oft ....., tJJtI.tt.lf it ,.,m'1: somethinI brilliant, you probably doo'l: ten .. it.1 n it bad? No. II: just didn't create a memory. Bet:. -= IdiVate ex catch the attention all your aemel one the first things that hits. If something. not pIanot png to m II a lot. It doesn't mean a diIh aood .,.a'll: amvare the &enIe c:l si&ht- Smell exaemely auc~· • lot !DOle rhinp you can [ r t e you can only • • . . (JMouIly. the Ide factor d.erc as well. hut beJlDl ·. . .. II l!fEilue factor, the c:l fed. Even if you reD if 104'" thiDe hot or cold to the pall.... the to inner ar; you caD acII.
1IIft_•• "'.
remember._
m
m
man
.1,10-,
iD the tdemky
beckaround
the
really the ~ JOc=-M darlD 1ft
aa.
, , _ ' h'lme way other art can, the way a good pIece of lite ra ture or mu Il I'm n,)t -lire tooJ can 010\ e ) Oll In t e '< ,_ , - t h a t the ahdlty to really mo\'e reople IS a ha~1C c ntenon of fme art. 0 C'r a raln[[ng can, It seem, to me ,, • ' L' nent to cooking? Is the eXistence of haute Clilsme, our equl\er to folk art. They want to be addressing broader qucstioO!'>" If ClI Irure, somet h m ' look at a great rainting, for in'tance, it can mean something rrnfound to people all o\'er the world, Oc>es food eXist on a comparable le\'el? Is that what fine dining-haltte CltL ine-i~? Or is food Ie" expre,>SI\'e and, by necessity, does it ha\'e to stay rooted in the culture that it come from? I'm not ,ure we\'e rOll
come far enough to answer that l/ue"t1on, Perhars haute cuisine is Itke opera, which e\'el)'one Seem to rec(1l!ni:e a" an art form , albeit not uni\'ersal or easily accessible, In fact It\ pretty arcane, Though opera can be movinl!, it's an t becau e it's nnt easily acce,sible. So I could be cnn\'lnced to a the '.Hne .Ihollt halite cwsmc , thlluf.!h I'm not totally comfortable with that conelu I n.
I think thee are thm!!. ,rudentJ m culll1lf) - h )!'-c1n) }llung people tnterc'te,1 in the pmie,sion-
that the) clre ell1 .It theIr peak. You c. n have d grt'.lt Idea , find ynu c,m plir .I hunch of tn!!reJlcn tugether on cI I'll re, lut I lhmk th e key is gcninf.! ,111 01 them down on the plate at the exact tIme mat \\urk perfectlv. "Look, for In ranee at ~ , ed. It hould bc aged, oreau e If you ate it nght away it woulJ be terrible, Even a chicken nced agmg; it need~ fort} -eight hour, as oppo ed to two or three weeks. You don't want to eat a
B
y
A
,
t
,
I t In truth, I don't thmk It has to be-in fact, it won't be-if we continue to talk about these thmgs, to Jebate. to understand. of the fact that you ingest it and not J'ust look at I't- h as a umque " , on F J-because , ImpressIon pe~1rl('. Be(ause It goe across your tongue, because taste and smell are the most evocative of our senses we react in strongly animal ways-these were protective devices for us for so many millenia. Taste and smell are something we have to reckon with carefully. I mean, we're not going to put out a whole big plate of bitter stuff for our customers, just so that they can have a strong, negative reaction to it. On the other hanJ, if you go to a good piece of theater, you might see something incredibly ugly put in front of you. You are intended to have a visceral, negative reaction to it. We don't do that with food, do we? Do we have the equivalent of sad or angry or hateful flavors? If we don't, does that make food less an art than a folk art or craft? Could It be that bitter flavors are the equivalent of ugliness in literature or theater? Take Campari, for Il1stance. My daughter tasted it the other day for the first time, and she washed her mouth out over and O\'er-she thought it was the most vile stuff she'd ever tasted. She couldn't imagine that we could sit there and drink it. I've come to enjoy that bitterness. Is that equivalent to enjoying a heavy novel or play? If food is art, why haven't we developed a sophisticated way of talking about it? Why isn't it studied in art departments rather than schools that have been historically connected to vocational/technical schools? Why is there still ambivalence about whether or not it's a desired profession? I think historically, worldwide--except for haute cuisine in France--cookmg has been backroom stuff, out of the limelight, e,sentially all done by women, Ito., never been celebrated the way other pursuits have, so perhap' It's hard to talk about becau e we're not participating in a conversation that's gone on for eons. I hope that by the time I'm old and gray, we'll have made some progress.
chIcken nght after it's been killed. The) 're terrible. Whether it's chicken or beef, you want to capture it at the moment in iL cycle when It's the most palatable-not only for flavor development, but for texture. Likewise, a vegetable that', pLCked--especiall'y when you're talking about herbs and suchthe be t pomt I nght then and there, that exact second. ":0, If you can collide the different ingredients you're putting together at that tlme when they're all at their peak to create your smgular concept of flavor, hat' the big challenge. Freshness has got a lot to do with It-sometime. In Other ca e" things should be aged. Everything has a cycle. "Th ecret i-: gettlng in 5'inc WIth that cycle to get the elements to collid ,"hen it' most advanrageou-, to all of them."
,
A
MedIum. A t
Cui mary artlsb mu, t under<;tand the nature of th Ir f rf a Is medIUm Cookmg 15 dltferent rom pc ume-making ~~~~ . , ~ mvC'/vec for example, m that chef don't mix pure flavor or the ere · . I boratory test tubes and different from music-makmg in that the essences m a ' . edl'ents aren't as singular as musICal note~-they' re more hke fl avors 0 f mg r natural chords. Not only is an ingredient very often a combmatlon of flavor but it also has other characteristics that must be taken into comlcit!ration when cooking-its aroma, its color, its texture, and even it common aS~OCI' ations, such as with a particular holiday or country. It is critical that cooks become conscious of, and learn to respect, the medium of food. rtS )f eX(lfC"C;lon
as dctemmeti
Sensory Perception
In any encounter with food, taste IS probably one of the last senses en gaged. Because
food is something we ingest, we judge it carefully, critically, and instinctively. All of our senses are used to evaluate whether to put the food mto Our mouths, and then whether to wallow It. First, you look at it, and then you might smell it. Is it safe? Is it appealing? If a food appear~ h ot , for example, you might first try to touch it to gauge Its temperature. W ill it bum your mouth? If it pas<;es mu ter and you bite into it, your first experience is one of texture . Is it oft? Cn,py? If It\ Crl,py, you'll probably hear the crunch m your inner ear a plttecond before It. Havor hegins to register on your taste buds. Su, ta ·te h methmg that I expenenced (and, one hopes, enjoyed) only after the Other en e have ir t been ti,iie I-and it b where our attention ha the pleasure of IlOgering. A~ Mark Miller POint out, "TH te 1 an eXl'otenttal, sensual experience. We don't really unde tan I it. Language I what We u~e for taste, and yet the bod~' g ~, through thi temper,ll pr ce ; there arc highs and lows, tntensities, duration, complexitie . Ta te I ,I very, very complex thing in the boJ), where it unlfle a number of factor ." Unoerstan ing the magnitude of the fa re experience ha IInport:lnt impltcattoru. for d 19nmg food . "When you de Ign [food) for people, you have to be much more aware of the body's expertence, and not get caught In either looking at (he ohject or thinking of how they experience it or u ing language," ay Mtller. "Language I de Crtptlve and analytical; It i n t about the expertence Itself."
24
,
A
COOKING WITH THE SEASONS
SPRING
artich~ kes
asparagus ,l\'ocaJo'i reans, fa\'a beet greens beets blueberries carfish chard
chervil CitrUS fruit;;, esrecially bh)od or,mges, Meyer lemon, clams cra],s, soft-shell crayfish cucumhers dandelion greens fava beans fiddle head ferns frisee frogs' leg~ garlic, especially green green~-arugula. chervil. mustard grouper
guavas hali],ut honeydew mek'ns lamb lettuce mint mi:uma morels nettles onions, Vidalia papa,"as peas potatoes, new
cherrie chickpea claJru com cra~. ) t- hell cucumber curr,lnt eggplant
Inchl nut I 1- It;r mn min mu kmcl n ncCl.Jrtnc okra peach peppers plums pc. rCIO! potatoe • new raspberrie rataroutlle red currant salmon sardmes scallions
*
~callion
sea bass shad and shad roe shallots snl'W peas sorrel strawberries suckling pig sugar snar rea, vanilla veal water chestnuts watercress :ucchini
radishe~
rhubarb .almon arJine~
SUMMER
apncots arugula b-asil beans. green bernes
blackberrie blueberries canteloupe celery
hantercll •
fl fr • Ie garlic g Jat g bern grapes gua\as halibut h(meydew melons Ice cream
The.~ .... moat characIeristic of the 88.ea.,. are rtdicated by bol'''' type .... ,
year-round they are
I.ed under their MaaOi'lBl peak(S)
hallots hdlfbh herbet squashes. summer tomatoc tropical fruit tuna watermelon zucchini
While
many Ingredients are 10 fact
cauliflower celer' root
cere'
chJmerelle~
arrlt' .. reafi.han, !:Teen and lima hlood or:m!!c' hoccoh hx:coh rabe rru"d- "rout
cJbha:.ce capon
che,mut.' coconut, c ranherrie., dalkol1 date, duck eel., fennel
k: (Ole gras !!Jme !.!ari ic !.!rape'
ch tnut chlcone
cmu fruits-Hood oran 'e, r,lp fruit. kumquat, ie er lemon
clementme balUn
he n, 1--1 ck nd r mto broccl It bru el prout' hoc \\heat cabbage
\-1-C C
" I \ 0,
cod d,ukon dned fruit
endive e ar Ie
leek lenttb lobster
mflche monHI h mu eI nut nut OIl
or m!!c oran"e • hlood par nips p Ion fruit
rapcfrult
ratt:
'reen , colllfJ and mus-
pmeapple tatQC';
t
rei
n
kale
\ IOU
kiWI
Icroy r It
grape" Muscat herring leeks lemons, Meyer lobster maple syrup mushrooms mussels onions papayas partndges pears peppers persimmons phea,ams pomegra na tes r ark
fruit kohlral-I
rabbit r dlcchlo ro cmaf)'
pumpkins quail quinces rabbits radicchio radishes shellfish squab swordfish tangerines turkey truffles, white venison walnuts
rutar.egas .. aIs ify ",all;-.,age~
r.'I" sea urchm qu,hhc." wimer quid tar fruit sweet potatoes
'Col
t,mgermc Hople,11 fruit truftlt • bl turnip "c,ll hank
vms
Perhaps no fond I' more stimulat ing to the 'en c, and In such an appealing way than that wh ich I" made irom ingredients at their seasonal peak. Seasonaltty h as emerged .1' the mantrd of
Seasonality
the leading chefs we ll1terviewed. Gary Danko POll1ts out, "If you are using ingred ien t> grown in "ea on, you're going to have the maximum amount of fl avor those products can deltver. Tomatoes grown in the summer have much more fla vor than the one. yllu get in the winter that have been picked orange , gassed, shipped to their de tination, and quite frankly taste like cardboard or cellulose. There\ no flavor in them whatsoever. A good cook might be ahle to doctor them with a little bit of sugar to cut the acid, add some salt and some herbs to bring out whatever flavor is there, and might be able to make a decent sauce. But there's no comparison to the flavor you can get out of a seasonal product bv Jomg less to it, which Will also satiate the palate better." The rhythm of the seasons IS wonderful. It has While seasonality is mmt freq uently aSSOCIated inspired pamters and musiCians for centuries. with fruits and vegetables, there IS a season to other and If does the same for me ingredients as well. "We used to get , almon from all -JeanLoUiS Pc. ad f) O\'er the place, a nd nnw we know that the local almon IS the best ta [mg, and we Just ll\l: locell .almon when It\ aVr • c(l(lkl!1,l! ~ea~onally can al (J pro' . 1. \ lUI: a h onclH to CIl I lila!) clrtl r eeklll~ the Hill t Il.1t monlOu ~omhlnatilln. of ingredIent .Ill I flavor. ''Ju t \\ orklllg II It It the C I' sons, )OU re half \/oay there," pOint Ollt Terr In e Brennan .
Aromas
orne expert cre
Itt drom.
With IInp run 1 Import lilt r <. h
the actual ta te It If. It' the role and effeLt uf vanou trom on a d. h. (liven th
28
r
nlU
f
t)
IW r
h (] tH r lind N J r
Culinary Artists on the Inspirations of the Seasons Jean-Louis Palladin pnne
Te7Tine of Smoked Salmon. Spinach, and Anchmry Butter or Fresh Cream of Pea Soup with Maine Shrimp and QueneUes Soft-SheU Crab with PancetUl Butcer or Rockfish Sauteed with Basquaise Farm-Raised Rabbit with Herbs and PortobelJo Mushrooms or Veal Loin Roasted with Faoo and Ham RagoUt Coconut Milk Tapioca CrousciUant with Saffron Coulis and Pineapple Sherbet utntn r
Coconut Soup with Maine Ralar Clams, Vegetables, and QueneUes Fresh Maine Abalones WIth Pea Fondue and Saffion Fresh Duck Fote Gras WIth Rhubarb Fresh Sturgeon WIth Arachoke Barigowle Farm-Raised Guinea Hen Roasted With HeTbs and Green ~ Rop1t Peach Tan With Peach Uquewr CoWis and Apricoc herbet
F Pumpkin Soup With Tas ArvIouille, and ~~s Sea Scallops ... th SqWd Ink oodk and p~ CowJis Rd napptT With Lnnon fit, Block DIMs, u.".ers, T~ , Ba.sil and Lnnon 0lWe Oil Venuon ...un Fnm Cantu and pmadt- twffed Pear u.Wt Port and Red W~ EsstnCe CMcoIow Tart u.Wt Gianduia SJ... btr and ChocoIau
COl""
fmIt Ocsulilt Soup . . So4fed Squab l..ep and QwndIa SetN & If w.« .. MGint Lobst.n and G.nr EmMbion Fiala o..dc Oral u.Wt Quince Fiala Tllihoc ..... Enola wlbooms and Enoici CO'cIis Fed ali. r lib ..,. edt" Rooc RliCc" MG__ T_ b ere "..d Wild DL teli'
,..,.w
0.."
Anne Rosen;:v.:eig rrll1 '
Pasta with Mint-Cured Salmon, Cucumbers, Lemon, and Cream Sauteed Duck Fillets with Rhubarb Sauce and Cracklings on a Bed of Arugula with Asparagus Macadamia Nut Tarts with Coconut Whipped Cream
Com Cakes with Creme Frakhe and Caviars
Chimney-Smoked Lobster with Tarragon Butter and Summer Squash and Potato Fntter Lemon Curd Mousse uith Fresh Summer Berries in Almond Tuiles hll Warm FIgs tl'irh Gorgon:;:ola and \'(!alnuts on Greens Roast Qlwil uith Sm'o), Cahba,ge and Kasha Chocolate Bread Pudding tl'lch Brandy Custard Sauce tnt r
W/tld I 111 hroom Tart Roast Lamb u nh Celery Root Gratm and Tomato/Red Pepper Casserole Pear Timbales u rh Slick Caramel 'au e and Sugar BIscuits
stimulate and ar u e, It' perhap one of the mo t underutdi:cd tool at the culinary art! t' dIS 1. An aroma i c JI h' bUIlt-in appetizer. A ba} leaf drorred lnto a pot of tew pre duce an earthy, w\:ct aruma. Cinnamon ad a different, but till earthy and wcer, aroma to baked weet ranging from pa trie to custard. The mel! of garltc advcrti e:. a fOhn t tolll,lto -auee. And truffles add a heady perfume that can clcvate even Imple ingredient5 like pa -ta and potatoes to the realm of the sublime! Jean-George Vongenchten plans to rap the power of aTOm ,It hi next restaurant by bringing more mells into thc dining nx)m. "Half the JI he on the menu WIll be erved tableslde," he a} . Vongenchten belIeve th t !nU h of the experience of carving a freshly roa ted bird, for example, 1 the (ragrance that escapes when it is fir t cut open, and that custome h uld be alJowed to enJoy chi senso,"} experience.
Dieter Schomer "'pnll:
Han'ey's Lemon Tart with Raspberry Coulis Rhubarb Tart . .dth Cinnamon Sugar SUl111l11
Oeufs
r
a la Neige (Floating Island)
with Lemon Sherbet Dutch Rice Flan with Berries
F \1 Plum Tart In Brioche Dough Alsatian Apple Tart uith Vanilla Ice Cream Tart of Quinces with Lingonberries Poached White Peaches filled u,!th Chestnut Mousse and Zabaione ~
IOter Japonaise-Ver)' Cmp and Thin Hazelnut Meringue filled uith Ha"elnut Buttercream Vachenn-Menngue Idled unh Blood Oran~e Sherbet Apple Pie a la Saw)' Hotel-Sened m a Soup Tureen COt ered u'ith CookIe Dough along «1m Vanilla Ice Cream
The chef we interviewed are hl!:!hl ttuned food and take them into can ideratt n v;hen com even-m Von enchten' Ca5e-a re tauram I elf. even de enbed a havmg pertume In te d of mere
Textures
the aroma at \'anou _lOg a dl,h or a menu, or Favonte ingredient are roma!
to
Even texture can communtcate. Many food thought of a comfort food have a oft texture to them-rna hed potatoe , apple auce, pudding. Food~ with thl texture can be thought of a' h meyand nurtunng. On the other hand, a lot of na k foods are cri py-porato ChiP, preuel . Because of the loud crunch they're capable of producmg when eaten, here c.an be certain informahty, even a n e of fun, to cri py food . A fned I u r chip add both the mtere t of crunch and of the vegetable' naturII
Anyone who's ever gotten a whiff of (re,h r pbern been immediately transported back to one's chtlJh yard, happily pulling the berries off a bush, knows that food can mJee tngger memories and emotions and other subjective connotations. Certain holidays are inextricably linked with certain (0 d, lIch a Thanksgiving with turkey, Christmas with eggnog, and Valentme' Day With chocolates. Chocolate is one of several foods ranging from champagne to oysters which have a long history as suspected aphrodiasiacs, credited With stimulating romantic feelings. The question of whether there IS an actual, physical effect on the body that takes place upon consuming such food~, or whether the power of suggestion is enough to stimulate such (eeling , is
Emotions
moot. In addition, ingredients may have as ociations that are cultural. JeanGeorges Vongerichten recalls the time he was cooking at an up~cale hotel restaurant in Bangkok and tned to add a pineapple tart to the menu. "It created a scandal," he recalls. "At the time, pineapple wa· considered food eaten only by the poor." Vongerichten was a ked to substitute apple tart on the menu, despite the (act that apple were neither local nor fresh. (If the above cenarioound- far-fetched, then it should be remembered that at one point in United ~rate history, lob;,ter was considered likeWI e, leading to the pa .'age of legi,btion regulating how often loh;,ter c(1uld be forced u n pn oner and ery lOt !) ~ me
cui lUre have dhtmct \\ 3), of thinking about fllmiliar mgredlent . For example, the ChlOe e culture ha~ cia ified certain fll~l Is as either ym or ran!? Ym re er to the p
Ive, negatl\'C universal energy force, cncllm-
TRADITIO. 'AL HOLIDAY DI HE Halula'! Valentine' Da
t. Patnek' Day Easter
Fourth of July Thanksgiving
Chn tmas
T)plcaI DI he Aphro
ill
like canar, chocolate, loh rer, o} ter
Cabbage, corned beef Ham, hard-bollL-d gg, lamb Barbecue, trawberry hortcake Cranberry auce, rna hed poratl'le , pumrkm pi tuffmg, \l,eet potae , turkey Chn tma puddmg, c lOlct ,eggn g , phea nt, r t beef, Y; rk hire puJdm
m
Bl0TIVE CONNOTATIONS OF VA RIOUS FOODS
"'mOl II
tic
Arhr ,d1S1 K
Pnnu! :
C halleHl!mg:
gnlled ,teak caviar, champagne, cmnamon, cloves, game, ginger, lohter, morel>, nutmeg, offal, oysters, pepper, ,affron, truffles, \'anilla anchovie,; stinky cheese creamy mashed potatoes
E,uthy:
grilled mushrooms
Femmme:
fruit, tlramisu thick-cut steak or chops
PLl\-tul :
lamb's tongue with lamb', lettuce ra\'io h
pa~smg foods such as sugar; yang denote the actin!, positive force, encom-
passmg food~ uch as chiles. In another example, Asian cultures hd\'e an'lh':ed and c,lteg\lri:ed various tla\'l)[S and food tuff, relating them [0 the (l\'e ba,1C elemt:nh. Bmeme s, along \\'ith ingn:dlent' like lpn at , mutton, Lmd ..: Ilion, b a"()ciated With the element of fire . nd the ea n f ummer, which rcpre ent, growth. weeme's, and mgredlent ltk beet an date . I as 0 I ned \\ Ith the element oi earth and the 1.'.1 on ot In han ,ummer, aid to repr nt tr.1Il formati In. Pungenc\', and ingredient' ranglIlg fr )m OIllon tt: pedche , IS a 1ared With the element of metal .md the elan f, lItumn, md to repre t: nt hn f nn', lid to rcpre ent birth, Be~ond thl'. Lertall1 food, eem to trigger more uhltmlIlal i tl n. "Ravlo\t connote a certam pla)fulne , nJ m, t~cmatt()n \\ Ith them probabl~ extenJ tar beyond the fact th t i e d to eat them d a chtll," a~ Wa)ne , 'I h. "It' the Imle pack.d~e ,the urpn e; It' Itke bemg 'I little kid at Chn trna time, geltlng a little rack I~e mJ eclng \\hat' in Ide." Food 1 a medIUm rIch \\ Ith potential for Cl.lmmUllIcaun ' In man~ dlfferem \\a \\lth the per n \\h I eat It-I! 1 cullllal) ani t h t learn k the lan.!u ge' nd t
Valentine's Day Menu Februar y 14, 1996
Barbecued Rabbit Turnovers Smoked Oyster Canapes • • •
A Demitasse of Sweet Red Bell Pepper Soup • • •
Two Eggs in an Egg (Cat:iar and Scrambled Eggs in an Eggshell) • • •
Natil,:e Rockfish Roasred with Whire Wine, Tomato, and Black Oli'l.'es on Toasted Couscous
• • • Grilled Quail With Homemade Blackberry Vinegar on a Crispy Potato Galerte • • •
Pear and Pepper Sorber u1th PoiTe \X'ilham • • • Rack of Baby Lamb on Roasted. leu PotatOe ulth Pearl Barle) and \X lid iu hroom • • •
A MlIlIatllre CroqHe 10nsleur
on Field Greens u rth pled Walnut • • •
e Coeur a la Creme U1th Ra pberry Sauce Warm Chocolate Cake U Hh Roasted Banana Ice Cream
A • 1ascarpone Chee
• • •
Cojfee or Tea Chocolate Bonbon
Th
c en e f ingredients-which encom,
pas e thelr appearance, aroma, and texture
as well a' their flavor-is the starting point
of all cuisme. Culinary artists go to great
-
lengths to understand their ingredients as well as possible-everything from their his~
torical ongms and uses to exactly how
they're grown or raised.
Only when you
under tand and
respect the essence of an ingredient can
you properly come to enhance it- flavor through cooking. This takes place m two pnmary ways: through the application of cooking techniques which erve to c hange
c:::
._
en
(and, one hopes, enhance) the char cten tiC of n perfe t mgredlents ingredient, and through combmmg fla\ or h rm Ferrand POint mously and even synergistically with other ingredient whose properties serve to enhance one another. But the best cooking of all is when ingredients taste like them elve . A culinary artist must respect the essence of ingredient, and take care to choo e those of the highest possible quality. "There's a lot more to it than just learning how to cook well, and then cooking," says Jasper White. "A lot of what determines the qualtty of the final product ha to do with buying-what you buy, and what your ::.tanould be tl10se of
dards are." Jean-LoUIs Palladin agrees. "The products we use are all importantand we only use top-level products," he say. "When you've got a perfect fi h, it' a crime to kill it and hide it! However, thi. is nor a 'ushi re taurant,O we have to do something to it, but we take cme to give it the flavor the fi. h deserves. " "Great co lkin!! really ha" a lot to j() With how perfect the ingredient, are," a) Johanne Killeen. Her hu h.md ,md coukmg partner George Germon Jump In \\lth an e.'ampl . "T.lkc I Ir ley from the m,Hket, and then take par I) ut of UT \\ mdo\\ III f cl 1 nt, nd ll"t:~ them Side by Side. You'll dl ver th dlfi eren e," h \\e r . "After a fe\\ Jay .It the upermarket, It till I nd It till cert 101· h t.l te, ut \\ hen you take It (Iff a plant nd JU t U It n ht \\ ,th rt:' n mp n n." Ktllecn .d I , "Once b k uu{ thmg th.lt ha\'c n me. Ll If It' I t th til ... ~ U
Y
r
he with, nly d \.'\\ mgredl~nt, then wn. Ea It h I he g(1 I by It elL" c mmument to > n Ilt~ and th II 111 ,lOd the I I In redl n , ulmdr}. rtl t Jitter do m th \' ~ th y pro h the pr e f c mp) IOtnt of c n III 1 n. There I cerof ere ttvlty that I a ch ( 1 d pte. I tl n to f tnl 11e • ut h or, I
ectlO the much
taml no c neath fr m
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.... e don't mean t) ug 'e t ne In r enttn Ie dmg eh 'Idea on the [ pi dl eu d an chron I ~ of our own d \I mg-th t ( tartmg .... tth rh malic t elemen (the com iuon f t1 "l)r ) contanumg thrt u h their c rnhmatlon mto c mposed JI he nd menus-but It' g .... U} ) .... 1m \\ of to tart!
A MaHer of Taste
Both the r t\( n nd th enJ rn nt f center ar un th p tat Th UT tl3S1C ld~V' that can be per elve on the ton ue ar we t, It, ur mJ bitt r
ut. "In Chma, there are five-there's also 'hot.' In southeast la, th re' .11'0 'aromatic.' There's also 'pungent'-something like fish paste \\ hlCh I not ur or bitter. but its sour. bitter, sweet, and salty." ~ary Danko mentions yet another "fifth flavor": "It's called umami. Tne be-t \\ a\' to Illutrate it would be the taste of the combination MSG and \\ater. Thoe are amino acid-like protems. Or another example would be to fut a raW O\·ter in your mouth. The feel or taste is of the sort of numbness in your mouth. It's hard ro describe. "If 'ou close your nose when you start to eat, those five flavors are the only things you can taste," says Danko. "A pure taste is something that goes from your palate to your brain immediately, Without going through your olfactory sensors and then filtenng up. It' an immediate ensation from tongue to brain." How can chefs use this knowledge to improve their cooking? "You hear a lot about balancmg the four points of the tongue," says Danko. "There are people who ay, 'If you just add more lemon JUICe, you won't need so much alt.' But I would disagree with that. I look at it more as a balance-you need a little bit of thi , and a little bit of that, and these are all essential in satiatIng you. You can leave a huge meal 'hungry' if your palate was not atiated. On the other hand, you can be atl fied With Ie ... food if you've had good, balanced flavor coming Into your m uth." In thmking about food, cook houlJ 1m to become can, lOU, of what\ going on in a particular dt h. Wlllch 10 rediem r contnhutin J t the dish's weetne ,or Inne ,or ur on , r bitter n te ? Thr u_h un 1er t,mding a particular ingredient' fla' r pr r t I . a he can m re exp Ttly h. nJle that ingredient and c mhme It \\ Ith ther, hem w re ,·he t the ingredient I contributing
to (
dl h.
I ch, ngeThe natur u rmm r \\ mgr It!nt . . m w ~ that m tml:e n nl fla\'or but en)o ment. Ther • r two pnm r. w } t I thl: thr u_h the ppltc non 0 tim, I c 10 0 echnt u , n thr u h h rm III u mbmatlon 0 tl3\; r. \X'lule It c n be lea ur ble t e t. perfect ra\\ carrot, for exam Ie, 10 h mtddl winter It n be even m re tI rytn to e t th t am carr t h t, perhap ure or a up. An th wh en) y he tlav r of \.:. rr t may flO It e\ en m re appealin d ttl n p t f butter, or« quee:e a lem n or orange. h f mu take the e n e n 10 re(hent lOt Idln wh t to 0 WIth It It t \ Ital or che t bc·r n.... " nllllar With Iff, rent t hnl Ium d I r c UI tn "
Affec ing Flavors
I
n r
Ihl
A
the process of cooking changes the flavor and textur avors but we do not have the fight of the ingredients being cooked. to destroy therr; Take sugar, for example, which 1 a recogntzable --,Ioel Robuct)OI flavor in and of itself. Yet if it is heated to a certain . 't wtll begin to brown and melt- the process of carameitzatlon • pomt, 1 " Through the application of cookmg techmques to sugar alone, new flavors and textures can be created. The same is true for nuts. Taste a walnut fresh from its shell. Then toast some walnuts in the oven, or in a saute pan, until they begin to brown slightly, and you'll find that a deeper flavor and crunchine are released. Toa tlng may also increase the perceived bitterness of walnuts as well as of aromatics such as caraway or mustard seeds. Roasting, on the other hand, can increase the sweetness of a dish through the carmeltzatlon process. "There's omething called the 'Maillard effect' that occur when the natural sugars in food are exposed to high temperatures in the pre ence of aCid, which reult in a natural carmeli:ation," explain Jimmy chmidt. "When you roa t thing like garlic or on ions, it creates broader flavor with more depth than the mgredlents would have raw or even cooked at a lower temperatun::. Through roa ring, certain gelatinous vegetable_, uch hallot and p.1r mp', break down. giving the dish a nawrally rich mouth-! el." Techmqu a tnt nly th ctu I flav r hut abo the perceived flavor of a I h. F rex mpl ,heatln n increa e Ib perceIved weetne s, whIle chlllm It mak I eeme er eptthle. A a ca c m point, the mIxture a ut to be poured Into n Ice ere III maker often tastes unbearahly weer. HO\ ever, once fro:en Into I e cre m, the arne ingredients taste merely plea ntly weet. A partl ular mgre Icn n I char tcn ttl: wtll metlme~ ug 'e t u~e of a particular re hOlque. "If )OU have perfect I h rcr, you prob hly J n't want to do anythmg m re than bOll r team It," ay J per White. "But If y IIr lobter aren't fabulous, au [TIl ht want to tum them into a bISque. To get the m t flavor out of the lob ter, I ' not mg to c me fr m the meat, which might be bland that particular time of year; It' g 109 to c me from I wly Immenng the carcasse and makmg a really tron br th With them. And If th season IS prmg, and it' chilly, wup I appropnate. Plu~, lob rer I an exp Ive mgredlent, and makmg a soup with it i a great wa~ to tretch It " Different bnds of fl h lend them lye to different rneth tion. "You can't gnll black cod, for example, lr Chtlean fall apart," explatn Mary ue MIlltken and u an Fem cr. "But the 'r rh great pan- eanng fl h. It' Just that their re ture I n t n hr r h nil nd you'd I all that JUice, mee the} 're th JUlq fl h. Tun n f h re k
we hav£, the nght to enhance or
Ir' Import.mt to u,e mgredlents In the way they are most naturally suited J .1 lum ~rlachal point~ out th,lt there are more than forty different types f porat e . "Mt ~t cu,wmer are only familtar with Idaho and Red Bliss," he ,3Y- "I u e Yukon Golds exclusively for mashed potatoe" for example, f:,ecau,e of their texture an~ golden color. And I'll use fingerlings [tiny potatoe the 'I:e of a fingertip] tor·alads."
Utilizing Kitchen Tools
Even the particular kitchen equipment used can affect the flavor of the finbhed product. Gray Kun: uses only the freshest herbs, and wants the same fre~hne~~ from hiS pices. "That's why we grind all our spices at the restaurant, u:mg a ,mall coffee grinder." says Kun:. ~dark Peel believe" that using simple tools often results In better food than b po~ible from high-tech gadgets. "If you take exactly the same recipe and }OU make pesta or an aiolt with a CUI (lwn mayonnai e, for example, u m' a m rwr nd e tie. "A lot of tim' pl: pi Will u e burr miXer lu "llendcr-on-a- [J k"l for pureem thm~ ," y Peel. hit' r II) • t, ,",ut }ou're better oft u ing a luad mill. It takes lon_cr, and It' I (me ler, but u end up with .1 better pro Iuet. The food mill \\111 take fiber ut, \\hll the r.urr tnllcer JU l c.hop It up. When makln!?, for in rance, m.! h d potalOC • cl ~ mill I e erma\. With a . The < nule of t< reh, wlHeh burr mixer, the) have been puffed up In the watcr, re till mra t. If you burrmix It, ) ou bre k them 0 en, • nd it rum (he texture. "We u e to m Ike a fl h Up that \\ Imo t lilli.lbal ,c nd \\C \\ould burr-miX I , then p3 It {hr HI .h ~,oo mill, b It e'd Ie 1\' > m t ur behtn The burr-IOI In L
released a lot of the flavor from the lobster sh ells, and then the food mill meant that we could extract the juice and th e larger fibers, yet leave enou~h behind to give the soup density." Travel prov ides opportunities to learn and be Global Techniques inspired by n ew techniques, even for seasoned chefs. George German experiments with A sian techniques within the realm of the Italian-inspired cuisine served at Al Forno. "If something has a \inegar and oil base, generally the process would be to cook it in oil first, and then add vinegar afterward . But I'll do a flip-flop of that---cooking in vinegar fiN keeps a real sprightly texture, and then I'll just dress it with oil at the very end. It gives a whole different spirit to the dish . "I think that what appeals to me most about A sian technique is locking in the flavor, and their methods for doing that," says German. "That's what got me to start thinking, If they can do it in th eir cooking-which I feel i5 so close to Italtan-then why sh ouldn't we be applying the same principles? Why does something have to be cooked for h ours and h ours and hours, when it can be cooked for a much ~horte r time and h ave more flavor to it? We just try to take different approaches to our food. "
Rick Bayless on Combining Mexican Flavors BaSically, Mexican flavor fall intll. that are ba ed on fresh chile.
ourle of Careg me : tho
tho t .H\.' ha~ed on dried chile" and tho~e
Dried Chile Flavors: Because of the natu[\:: of the drYIng proce .lOd \Ihat it inremifies, a cert.lin kind of fruitiness is drawn out, thi dned-fruit frultine . TI1en thtlt' balclOccd .Igalmt a lot of other t1a\'()f~ that range from bitter, like unsweetened chocolate or an almost rohdcco-Itke hirterne.,s, to a rea l fru itl!1e like the kind you'd get in a dried tomato. When 'ou mix all of that klOd of ,tuff together, you've (!ot really deep. rich flavor. That's the ba I f.l "hole categol) of MeXican dishe . Almust .l lway' , e\'el)·thll1!.! in thi categol)' is toasted before tt' used, which add another dimen lon, ,mother level uf compleXity to the flavor. Clearly, when you're working with dried chile, there are some pretty untamed t1av,m JI1 there I \\ell, ) you have to work with those and figure out how to balance them or play them down nr JI1 orne ca ~ eliminate them by, for example, soaking the chile and then thnm ing away the soak ing water. Becau e thi is uch a major category of Mexican flavor, it's where I pur a lot ot my ,lttentlon, he au e I want to draw out a much of the flavor as I can from the chile and e1ab< fate on th,H \I Ithout tf) 109 to und It in any .... ay. I really capture the very pint of the flavor the chile ha to offer \\Ith ut th t It bee me mpr ml 109 It In an} way. A lot of chef might tl) to elimmate a lot of it flavor I) untl • hut then J thmk }ou\e reall} mi ed the point of the chile. We try to really let th m he
A
Jc,hanne Killeen points out that "In Asia, when poaching a chicken, ,omen me' It will be left: out to air-dry, ~o that the skin becomes really crisp. SOJllerill1e~ thev'll deep-fry it, but we'll do something like poaching it, drying If bnet1y, dnd then roastmg it-and that produces a really crispy, crispy skin anci a
what they are but yet, at the same time, put their he t foot forward. And that sometimes comes in the way that we prepare them-the initial tep~ of preparation are in the toasting and the soaking--or it might come in the way that we cook them. There' a very tandard method for cooking dried chiles where a puree i' made out of them, and then that' cooked in a very hot pan with just a little bit of oil in it 0 you're searing it and reducing it. When it' reduced to a really thick paste, at that point you can add tock and bring it up to a brothy or auce-like consi tency. That's one of the way we work with that (category ot] flavor. There' a kind of triumvirate that run through a lot of tho e di he : black pepper, clove, and cinnamon, although sometime the cinnamon will be replaced with a little bit of cumin. And then alway garlic. Fre h Chile Flavors: On the flip ide, the fre h chile flavor are typically associated with things like lime and cilantro, and they're much ea ier to work with. When they're the really mall chile, frequently they're not cooked, so you get a lot of gras ine out of them. You're thinking more in terms of heat and harpne ; obviou ly, if you're balancing them with cilantro and lime, you're ju t underscoring even more the brashne they can offer. When you get into the larger chile , like poblanos, u ually they're roasted, which turns the flavor from grassy to more like a deep, rich herb like rosemary or even a hint of the flavor you get in very green olive oil. It' more a vegetal flavor than it IS a fruit flavor. When you're dealang with fre h chiles, garlic i usually replaced by raw onion-and it' alway white onion, never yell ,because It has a much cleaner, bnghter flavor than the yellow one do.
g
so us chef is from India and brings in ideas from traditional Indian cookm!(." he says. Terrance Brennan credits his stint at Gualtiero Marchesi, a MIChelm three-star restaurant in Italy, with teaching him the importance of prepanng pasta from scratch. "It was there that I learned that if you add more egg yolk to the pasta dough, it results in a richer-tasting pasta," says Brennan. "Now we make our own pasta at Picholine, to ensure a fresher taste." Picholine serves no flavored pastas, except an occasional black pasta made from squid ink: "All the other flavors cook out in the pasta-making process, and all you're left with is the color," he explains. Brennan was also inspired to bring the same perfectionism to his preparation of risotto, which some consider to be among the best in the city. The secret to risotto? "When risotto sits around, whether it's half-cooked or not, it starts to break down. So it's only done to order. And the rice I use IS very important-it's a semi-fino, as opposed to arborio, which is a fino. So it's a larger grain, with a harder core to it. It's what the Venetians use, although they make a more soupy risotto and I keep it tighter. I like it because it's very hard to overcook, ince it has a yery hard center. It's creamy, and I like the way it stays together in your mouth when you eat It. There's even a larger grain, called camaroli, which when It cook up ha . the grains stay very separate, but I Just didn't like the feel on the palate. ~ orne chefs may think it's uperior to the semi-fino I u~e, but I don't think o. I think tt'~ a matter of taste." It I important for chef~ to hone their knowledge and judgment of technique~o that they can he effectlve 10 ..levI ing new approaches to wiving cui mary dilemma. One clever • \~W York City cafe, trYlOg to devise a low-fat way to cook eggs, stuck a bowl )f raw, beaten eggs under the node of their cappucino m, chlOe\ mdk ~teamer. The steamed crambled eggs have since become one \If the retaurant' ;,rectalty hreakfa~t Item. Dieter chorner 3Y, "Chef~ need to thmk ahout what It I, neces~ary to do ro get the effect that rhe} want, or to make thlOg, better. For example, I make tarte Tatin [carmeltzed apple tarr]. In France, the apple Bre cooked with rhe cammel, with a cru~t on top. But the drple needs to ~team, wlllch uually make~ the cru,t oggy. 0 I learned to cook the Cfu"t ,epa ratel}, wirh aluminum fot! on top, which re.,ult tn a CTiSP cnlst. An old French chef onLe a ked me, 'Wh~' do you cook the cru r like that? oix)Jy J Ot'5 It Itkc that In France!' And I aid, 'That's right. But If I c lpy e"erything I ce ex Icrlr. chen I don't have a hrain!'"
[Ill. in Jean-George:; Vongen hten'
piniOn, flavor I p r mount O\ er "pr per" rechntque. "If my cooks make < Inl t.lke on memtn tel-hOi I. I clo e m\ }e ," he a} . "But If the} make a Int take ~Ith mn ,I ~ 11 11 night."
A
Cooking Technique and Altenlati e \Vhen usmg culinary techni4ue~, chef~ ~hould ca mider alternative to the usual methods that might result m more intere~tin~ flaq)rs or texture: Breading
Instead of ordinary bread crumbs. consider using: buckwheat pecans, crushed plantains. crushed
Dredging
Instead of flour. consider using: cornstarch Cream of \
Skewering
Thickening
Instead of ,imrie wooden ~kewers, c\.)n~ider usmg: rosemary branches ugar cane In-te. d f t1our, cormtarch. ( r amlwrlxlt. elm,iLler
Llsing:
H l--re. d butter (,mot . pureed c.ream
c ml, hellf. h
.
e g yolks garlic, roa ted and pureed In tant m hed potato flake nut, ground pecans, ground potatoe , pureed roux
toes with un-dried tomatoe In order to give a different pm ro (he (Om.lt O flavor In a di h. The ame pnnciple applie when a iding corn kernel r" corn bread. or featuring chocolate Jesscn with multiple ch colate .sinKe . . In the ame vein. Gary Danko illu trate how the tlwOf oi apple (; 10 f,e Inten. ifled to enhance a duck JI h. "You want to get the , pple , I .:t frUit, [ ) be a little more avo!). That would be accompli hed by Itght1~... ,king [hem until they tan to caramelize. You want to dc\clop that fl avor ,I \\ ell I ""I.:
..
the aprle dUring thb -rage," he ~a .~. "When they're done caramdi:mg, you I"ht wire all the fat out of the pan-horefully, it's a nonstick pan-and me . then deda:e It WIth a little bit ot Calvados and some apple cider in small quantl tie ', bnngmg it down to a gla:e. Again, you're gomg to get that next -reI' of carameli:atlon. With every step of caramelization, you're going to get more I1a\'or. " ~bry Sue Milliken recalls the process of experimenting with the ingre,hent~ tnvolved in making "the world's best £lan," as Susan Feniger describes it. and achie\'ing exactly the right milky taste. "First we used sweetened conden,ed milk. Then we used whole milk. Then we eventually used nonfat milk reduced 50 percent to which we added sugar," Milliken says. "When we make the £lan with It, it has the most incredible rich, milky flavor. But we've spent nine year~ working on it."
Enhancing Flavors
Bradley Ogden finds that too many cooks overreach their abilities when It comes to
combining ingredients. "If most cooks would just try to enhance the natural flavor that are already there, they'd be a lot better off," he ays. "Some of them don't have the education or the palate to pull thing, off. Imtead of keeping thing, implified, they create a mi,hma h of fla\'or~ and tastes and texture, and countries, and you don't know what you're eating by the time it's all done." "Sea oning should not kill the ra~te; it hould enhance the fla\'or of the mgredient:' ay Dieter Schomer. "If you're eating fi,h, it hould ,mell and ta te ltke the fish-not, for example, like you're eat 109 Ju,taffron. I found that in ~ome French kitchen~ there would be .0 much ltqueur u,ed in desserts that it wa almo,t all you could ta te." It is often the role of sea. on 109 and herb~, uch a ~alt and lemon, to enhance the essential flavor of ingredienb. " alt's potency In heIghtening the ta te of food i. unmatched," wnte Edward Behr in hI book The Artful EateT " alt deepen' flavor anJ to an extent unite, them, and It balance aCl(.lity and weetness, helping to re_tore equilibrium when they nre in exce '." It b important to u e proper techntque when ea.,onmg WIth alt, which will affect the flavor. "Different food., call for different method of air 109," points out Gary Danko. "For example, with thmg ltke meat and fillet that have been trimmed down to the bare muscle, I cook them, let them re t, and w~lle they're re ting [ salt them. [n a I:rraisee, you would ea on your liqUId ltghtly because thtre I an exchange between the juice of the meat and the uce, and they eventually become one. [f you're cookmg ay, trout, you're gomg to salt it fir t, then flour it." '
I!]IO
ot parad, e
carJ.1 1110 111 (ll..~\ es h(lr,cr'ld,~h
capers ddl lel110n mu,rarJ
Juniper bcrnes albplce garlic mafjoram pepper. black ro,emary h\t;nder narlic
muo;t.lrd caper, fennel honey turmeric ni"ella ... allspice coriander savory thyme
nutmeg allspice cmnamon cloves cumm gmger
r< \"\t'm.lr-y
garlic oregano parsley sage thyme saftron basil chives cmnamon cloves coriander cumm fennel garlic glnger mint par,ley
~
lemonura s ch tie, cdantro conanJer garlic peprer, ,hallDt,
orange cumm oregano ba~d
cmnamon cumm g
ha,11
par,lt:y ,a\"0f) thyme
cilantro cinnamon dill nutmeg par.,lc\ chyme
par In ha,il hay leaf cht:rnl chive,
marjoram
Jill mmt ba'll (.hocolate Cilantro conander
,ulte p r Ie)
garlic nregano thyme
~lge
anchovy oarhc par,ley r cmar) rhyme
-
anise cassia cmnamon ~tar
"zechuan rCpplr cassia gmger
tam
as afra .I11'plce anre chde~
pepper, hlack C
iii n
hme
hallut wme orrel chl\lCS orccano parsley thyme
turmeric mu,tarJ \ .10
ilia
caramel chocol.lte cmn,lm n c()Conur
n>ffee rum
lots in it, so that It' aim t sh allot sauce that'., macera ed In vmegar With some oltve 011 added and black pepper, and ['1\ spoon that over it. 0 you're constantly making thoe kinc6 of considerations and evaluations. Every day, these thing~ change." Chns Schlesinger believes that when experimenting with spices, A mericans are at a disadvantage. H e says, "We don't have a lot of experience working with spices. If you go to Mexico, Central America, the Middle East, India, they use a tremendous amount of pices, and there are developed ways to use spices, developed combinations of spices, all orts of precedent. In India, the skill and attention and detail that go into the buying, handlmg, toring, combining, and cooking of plces IS on a par With a
"Flavor Cliques" There are ome gr up of "fla\'OT pal" that are . 0 fond of one another that they hang out w_emer in cltquc, nd the eli IUC have become so popular as ro ment their O\\!TI nam : Bagna cauda: It !tan for "hot bath"-a aucc of olive otl, hutter, salt, pepper, anchovi and lemon :e [, t} picully erved with vegetahle I
Bouquet gami: hay leaf, par Icy, thyme Chinese fit'e-spice J>o«,'der: <:'1 1<1 or cmnamon: clove , fagara, fennel, tar ani e Fines herbes: chervil, chive, par ley, aod tarra!! n Gremolata: garlic, par ley, lemon :c t, anchovie
Herbes a Tortue: ha d, chervil, fennel, marjoram,
vary
Mirepoix: carrot, celery, Onton Spanish picada: garlic, par ley, and
(fr n ~round Volth almond or plOenu
Quatre-Epices: cloves, mger, nutmeg, p pp r Tunisian fi..'c- pice mix: cmnamon, d v,
A
m
f p:: r d
,nurm ,pepper
When leading chef experunCnt with flavor, ttl hnng Out th ones that will tantali:e us most, how do they approach the challenge? Hubert Keller starts with a recipe on paper. "If you think ahout it, }ou can combine the flavors in your mind and envision how someth ing \\111 ta.:;te ," he says, refernng to an ability that comes easier to more experienced chet".,. Given the direction toward lighter food that Keller sees as having influenced cooking over the last decade, he also likes to demonstrate that food, even old combinations, can be updated. "Lamb has traditionally been served With a rich red wine sauce," he points out. "Now I do it with a Med ot. Today when you say Medot, everybody jumps! The Merlot has a hint of vanilla flavor in it, and instead of using butter to add richness and flavor to the sauce, 1add ~ome fresh vanilla, which empha I:es the \'3Oilla flavor In the Medot." The next step for Keller is trying out his ideas on the line of hi restaurant kitchen. ''I'll prepare the dish and taste it to find out if it works. Then the eye come~ In-I'll made a drawing, tllutrating how to display the garnishes for the dl,h on the plate. ThL might take four or five , even six, tries. Finally, I'll tl) it out on orne good cu,Wmer, and see what they think. I've got cutomer who are open enough w ,l)' to me, 'Well, It'S not my favome .. .' That\ when It' IInporWnt for a chl.J en be fle.·ible enough to either change a dl,h or take It off the menu complerel~ if it\ not ri!.!ht." Jo~ce G 1 tem ay, "I nl~ know methmg\ right when I eat it and It' complete m m m uth-an i \\ hen other people eat It, they get It. I'm coming out \nth k c, lie Kitchen Cont'crsatlOn thar will ask read-
Experimenting with Flavors
"Flavor Enemies" While fl:.l\or p:.I1 (.an't e t'nou hoc ch other, f1JWlr enernit.: are (lnc that \ Oll pr b bI} don't want to mVI e m 0 rhe me dl h, unit: YOIl do 0 \\ tth gn.'4l t Lirt'!
bd iI
\\ mc
.:hll
,lC1JI C to"J,
rrichokc
tarra on
d p,lra 'U'
aulcrn",
chO<..ol.m~
chocolate
t:ort mdcr
Cltru frUi
h [, I'lcy food ICC ere m
M (, [( matot:
larrag( n
m
58
t other her
A
one the '" e cooked a rec.pe. Are ou there )et? Did you get what )OU were aiming for. What were the element you were playmg with? If you like bitterne • how do you play it up? How do you keep the plate in balance without going over the edge and getting too bitter? If you like harpness, or acidity, how do you keep that in the forefront too tart and killIng everything else? It help to think about why you like certain dishes. Why are you playing in this ballpark? Why are you interested in that? Certain things are texture, certain things are taste-when you play with them, the whole becomes more than the urn of the parts. That's when you've hit it." According to Jean-louis Palladin, a chef works exactly like a painter. "You start with the basics, and build the painting you want," he say. "After thiry-seven years in the kitchen, I can make matches pretty well." Palladin adds, too modestly. "I can see in my mind the matching without even ta ting it. Of course, I alway try it and taste it fIrst. and I may change it a little bit. But 95 percent of the time. it' a wInner."
Gary Danko on Cooking with Wine
Because we're a restaurant of the caliber that serves expensive wmes, all the food here has to be more delacate. we'll never do, for example, a Moroccan dISh In Its authentically hot-bot-hot seuorung, but I'll use the same flavor principles and balance the dish more delacately so that It can actually work here. Wane and artichoka l f t very difficult to match. 1be way you would deal WIth that to use the artichoka as a gamiIh an a dish, but you would have a J2 ore that would make the bridte betAUn the dish and the wtne. AIparaaus and wine aren't the best of frienda. although you can use the Ii , character of a Sauvignon Blanc to match that il fIt character of the IPpDI'W Ifl had to march a wme WIth a.1 would put .mcbee CODlpOOetlt Into the dish. maybe IOQte crumbled p t d r eM', and work &OID chat poult of III!II1Cb. and thea put a ~ OIl It which would 10ft of lubckatr or . . 'Itt that diRct ' - '• •iae t It', And, ClUIIe ....aId,t via po'" wilw doOt 7 h. But tIwa lie R Jrr Jila Iw csie Wi). which... • lor of .... -U •- with .....iawAuelH Lt. I, m
wouldn't know where to begm or how to have . " says G eorge Germon . "Similarly, cooks say they want freedom In reaCtion, 't makes me chuckle. 1 know they'd fall apart · h en, and L " wLthout the th e k LtC ·S thev need reference po ints to build on . structure. Th e truth L" Johanne Killeen agrees. "In the worlds ~f art or architectu~e, yo~ alwil)' have a reference point for whatever it is you re creatmg. If you re bULldlng a house, for example, and you want it square, there will be one wall that LS your reference point and you'll take all your measurements from that one wall," she says. "Likewise, Italy is our reference point in our cooking." "And within that structure, we make our own rules," adds German. "But it's good to have that reference point. It keeps us in foc us. It's extreme_ ly important to have a philosophy in cooking; it even helps build tru t among your employees, who begin to see that there is a rationale beh ind your critique of their food, that there's something specific you're goin g after." Where does a dish originate? It starting point, or reference point, can be anything! It might stem from the request of a customer to satisfy a particular craving. Or from the arrival of the ea on's first bounty--of produce, of wine-which demands a dish that celebrates it. Or from a chef who may wish to expenment With a particular technique, in a dish that employs it. A dish can be created to achieve any of the~e ends, and at its best may ach ieve many ends at once. One created pnmanly for nourishment. for example, wilt ideally also please the ta te bud~--even charm the Iopirit! gUtd e Imeso Th e s t udents
Classic Dishes
hen -c el Sou ud tions--of flavor, texture even aroma and c 1 r that hi tory ha been h·ard -pre e d to oller rr' , Impn vernents upon . The ir h.Lvrn stood the te t of time spe alU> L_ h Iegance of theLf form, tn eomhtntng telfI to tee vors not only harmoniousl b . h . . Y ut, In many case, ynergi ttcally, uch (hi t t whole I Indeed greater than the urn f th e Ind LVI dua I p res. Other cia Le di he range from cas oulet to paella, fr In coq au un t
steak au poll'l"e . "I n each 0 f t hem, all the IngredLent that are tht: re r th r for a reason-because they work," pomt out Terran e Br nnan Tht
A
t
,hl)uld b~ the aim _ when composing new dishes-in Brennan's wmds, "A rea I ~olid , [~oughttul marriage of ingre~ients resulting in high-quality cooking." RICk Bayless tends to agree. Too many people always worry about creattng something new," he believes. "I'm more interested in perfecting something for myself, and knowing it's perfect. Only then would I consider tweaking it. 'Mastering the classics' doesn't mean doing the same things the same way they've always been done-it means making them exactly right for you today. There's genius in those classic dishes that isn't always appreciated." Researching classic dishes can inform chefs of those food matches that history tells us are the most successful of all time and prevent them from having to start from scratch. Chris Schlesinger, like other leading chefs, looks to the past when creating food for the present. "I was reading a book on pickling from the 1950s. These people pickled everything-even grapes! That's what's so mind-blowing. You could name a decade and I could make a menu from old cookbooks from that decade, using only those recipes, and customers today would go, 'Wow-that's so creative! How did you think that up?' When we first served plantains at the East Coast Grill, not a lot of people had seen them and customers would say, 'Wow-these are unbelievable!' But plantains are so common that they're eaten like French fries in a lot of other cultures. "I was researching Brazilian cuisine and found that the northern part of Brazd has a lot of diverse influences with the slaves from Africa. For example, there's a classic combmatlon of mgredlent.!>-tomatoes, peanuts, and coconut milk-that's served in a relish, and I served it on some grilled lamb in the restaurant. Customers went wild over it and asked me, 'How did you ever think of combining those ingredIents?' I had to tell them that it' a classic dish of this region that' been prepared for hundred of year -." Wayne N Ish recalls expenmenting with pasta blankets embedded with herbs when he cooked at The QUIlted Giraffe. "ImmedIately afterward I came across a reference of the same exact technique in one of [Giuliano] Bugialli's books, which was referenced back to fourteenth century iena-l think that was the first time the technique shows up in any cookbooks or records," says N Ish. "So here I was, thinking I was domg thIS really neat new thing, only to fmd out that there had been people rolling the same thing out by hand six hundred yeac ago." Where is the lme between copying and findmg inspiratlon m a cUisine? And how far can that line be pu hed? Chris Sch lesmger points out, "My food, while not exact dupltcatLOn, is true to the flavors and mgredient of the culture that inspired It. If a dish i inspired by a dish that I had m Th Iland, for example, It won't ha\"t:! any mgredients that can't he
Borrowing from the Classics
c
9
o
L nder tandim: a~ much as possible about a particular ingredient can heir 111(, rill \\'h"t ro do with it and which other ingredients to combine it with. m a kmd of culmary free -association. "If you're working with duck, and \ou know that ducks eat grains, like corn, then you can serve a corn cake wnh[Ole gras. because it's part of their environment. Serving grain with duck goes back ro duck' and wheatfields," says Brennan. "It's game, it's fall, there's mushrooms. The gaminess of game goes well with squash, because there's a nice sweetness to it. I lmoe purees in the wintertime; they go really well with game. So Just working with the seasons, you're half way there." After startmg with the seasons, "Good taste leads you to combinations that work," says Lydia Shire. She believes chefs can develop taste through eat1l1g out in restaurants and experiencing firsthand which combinations are pleaSlOg and which miss their mark. }"llchael Romano agrees that "a chef has ro have taste in terms of knowing how ro put things together. As in every human endeavor, you can improve to a certain extent through training and practice," he says. "But beyond a certain level, you either have it or you don't. You can give two people the same budget and send them into a clothing store, and one will come out looking like a frump and the other will look like a million dollars. The difference is taste." Classic dishes raise the questlon of recipe. Do It IS not Just a haphazard affair, a new dIsh. It is a professlOnal chefs ever follow them? "I think they can pondenng on a new combination of tastes and be likened to traming wheels," say ' Romano. "If you then a reconcJ/tatlOn with a techntcal base. follow a good recipe carefully, you ~hould be able to -The Trolsgros Brothers come up with something good. But as you gain more experience, you can take off the trainmg wheels. Then you look at recipe~ to get a sense of interesting combmations of ingredients, rather than a teaspoon of this or a cup of that." "Most of my experimenta-
Deconstructionism/Reconstructionism
tion is rooted in the past," admits Charles Palmer. "It's involved taking what I knew--dassic French cuisine-and applying it to great ideas in a modern American approach. And a lot of the products you find here, from beef to lamb, are even better than what you'll find m France, 0 it makes the experimentation that much more enjoyable." Simtlarly, Rick Bayless describes the CUisine he serves at his Chicago restaurants a~ "classic Mexican food with contemporary twists in a contemporary context." Bur, in hiS opmion, "the most Important thmg we do is und~r rand the soul of what's being done m the CUisine and capture that in our tOod. Flavor., -hould take you ro the heart of a cuisine." Bayle believes
$
g
.. Norman Van Aken on Inspiration In fir tl n Cdn Ll me \\ hen you're ,tuck at a red light. The crea[[ve pwce:,s I l meth\l1!:' that I ' n~r). \'er) difficult to de5cnbe. In some way" it'; kind t 'Ike 1 I \ er" quarrel that happen in your mind. I thmk some of the mt1,t I..reatlye moment~ I've eyer experienced made me a little ick like a k'ver' qu,lITel-and then suddenh, mcredibly happy, once there was a res"lutlo n
It. It" the marnage between thought and the ingredients-and what a child ot that marnage \\"Ould produce. I've trained myself to know my ml!redlent' really well, so that I canhuftle them in my mind. Certain m2reJlent' or combinatiom might trigger a memory, or trigger a hungerthe p::l't or the future. I gue s-that wl11 _et me into motion, and then Cfeatlve
to
thll1~
c::ln occur. I thmk it wa" Pa_teur who aid that "Chance fan)f5 the prepared mmd." There l~ a tremenJou . amount of preparatlon YOU have to ha\'e in order for thl' creativity to ,pawn, I t'- not jut like wmning the lottery, Jean-Franc;:oi Revel did. "To a gre,H.1 degree a~ ~exuahty. fnod i, m'l'parahle fwm Imagination." Im.1!!lIution tor me I Ju~t ,mother \\'llrd for ...rean\ Ity. '\' hen \ ou take the freed m to u > )our mngll1atl n. then the )rtal of cream'it h.we no lode. It' one of the true t hm ,m term f che . e ha e to h \ e .m extraorJlI1ary e1f-e hung pn e need t be IHe t( \\alk 111[0 till n tural ~arden th t CXI t ~ r It )ut ther 111 the \ rlJ- mJ. t e. JUr e, I htIcall) \\C ha\e to hdp prot t that n tuml arden. be au ,chef If \\e Jdn't, then \\c won't ha\e It-md e( p t ur own pc 11 lhtlc It tlll"" and get \litO tht:
111llkcn 110 remember
\\hen her partner u to Fem er rerume I fft m " I all n In India. ~ he w ned and lid, "\c ' I t [ I m k th ffltter for ~ou-the) 're re Ilh unbeh \ bIe·.... he m J th " t Ibl fritters \\ nh htckp b I t[ 'r, en c J \\ It h mlllt- II ntr e.hu n to 1 ue. • md I er \\e pur th m n th m nu m l"' .....u' JI n [If nl but th \\ nt \Cr rc II bl' n h r n
the mo ence at Le Perroquet [t h e Chicago . re~taurant where . h fi r t metl t ugh vie us was that \\,e cou Id t a ke any kmJ of food, mcludmg .t ese country_ ' . from In d la, an d we could kind of elevate , . the dish by u tng orne of fntters . the fmest tec h ntques of handling food, which IS what the French. re bnlh h b !iant at," , "ongerichten recalls pagmg t roug a cook ook from Jean- G eorges y. the 1800s by Urbain Dubois and running across a recipe call ing for the unuu. a f raisins and capers. , "1 knew the combinatlOn would need a ' a I com b matton , , F' I trl'ed clove ~,which didn t work, but then I tned nutmeg, which " ," , Spice, Irst is kind of 'pals' with ralsms, recalls Vongenchten. I m ade a puree of the raisins and capers, which was delicious, even if the color was n o t very appealing. In trying to decide what to use the sauce with, I knew th at capers and skate were 'pals,' so I tned it." The unusually delicious dish that re ' ulted was added to hiS restaurant menu. How do chef-couple' like Mark Peel and Nancy Silverton collaborate on de\'elopmg di.he? "I did the original menu," says Peel. "And N ancy IS the one who goes to the farmers' market and get a lot of ingredients, and those end up 10 dLhe , Tina [\ViLon, Campantle" chdl also comes up with a lot of di hes, wlthm parameter-," The Idea J n't ah\ar~ tan \\ ith the main mgreJient. "N ancy found some wonderful romed legume • t the farmer!>' market," recalls PeeL "When the) pr ut, chcml.1 h n ur m,klt: the bean, cau,mg them Ilv rton de I led t u t: a heJ of the sprouted legume to ho\\c e a perfectl~ c k d pIC e 01 almon. to become \\e ter." Peel and
For JC r e Jermon clnd J hanne "Iii en, \\ hO'l: rramlng as a rt b ts predat~ their emf) IOta rofe I n I cookll1g, th tnrting lint is vi Ll,d. "I think It' ~I tOur trainmg," ay ermon. "We u e (Jur hr
cnp Ion f
thin
10
agna,
fI
layered pa ta
la agna I filled \\ Ith mu h P,"} Killeen. "\X/e t Irted expert lllcnttn wHh thm la dgna that wa till two or three I }cr high, but onl} three-quarter of dn lOch thick. From the mltlal VI uallde ,our mmd cre tcd the dl h and br ught It to reaht) on the plate--one \\ Ith hechamel lice glazed \\ Ith Parme an he· e, which \\e n \\ cook to order." The Jay' weather often di t te the klOd off, pe pi \\ant to CJtCuu/l;mg and mus care alke n that a fmlshed or chef: want to cook. ObVlOU ex mpl mclud d a p rformance depend on an e ement at on wh ch are never part of the SCI'Jfe V. nth 5 goes r.ght t re u ts c th t mat p
LfavlOg hot food m coIl we ther, md " 1l.C V r I 'I thmk the weath r I ne f th m t d mm lun t tor 10 term thc m I'm m nd wh u I II cookmg," V rm n Y. n Ak n "8 t here [10 MI mil n rI tw m £1\ (
, 1y t trom the Chicill.!o area], our perception of what is 'cold' h as d ef'mite ch.1 ng<,d. Ye~terJar \\'a~ 53 degrees and rainy, and we were thinking 'lamb _re\\ ' \\'eather co~ditiO~S can also, directly affect the availability or quality of certalO mgredlents. We certainly get rained out in terms of tuna or shrimp bemg available," says Van A~en. "When the moon is full, the shrimp go down, and the shnmpers Just don t go out." And across the country in Los Angeles, Nancy Silverton pays attention to the weather in planning her desserts. "After a recent rainy spell, I took strawberries off the menu because I knew the strawberries weren't going to be good enough after having soaked up all that water," she says. lan p . l' "
" t
As Chris Schlesinger previously pointed out, it's rare that chefs have the luxury--or challenge!--of creating out of thin air. "Getting back to the idea of a chef as a profes ional, my job as a chef-re taurateur is to run a profitable kitchen," says chlesinger. "One of the major realities facing cooks throughout time is that it's a rare thing that a cook gee to create m a vacuum. I go into the walk-in [refrigerator] In the mommg and I look at what I have and what I need to u, e. Then I'll call up my pur\'eyor~, who'll tell me that leeks are looktng great, for example, or thac striped b:h, ,e
The M0th er 0f Inven Ion
A Chef's Palette
of Flavors
Jean-LouIs Palladin 'This list ret1ects exactly what I've got in the refrigerator, or exactly what I'm going to receive," says JeanLL1uI Palladin, of those ingredients indicated in boldface. * Palladin would go into his office at 1 P.M. every afternoon w compose the restaurant's daily specials based on such a list.
INVENTORY-JANUARY 10, 1996 FISH Af,al,mes Anchones Ba"s, Sea Clams-Ra:c,r, Countneck Cod G,d Chccb Crab SpIder Crah
Crawfish Eel Fk,under Frogs' Legs G>educk Grouper Hake Hallhut Herring
RllCkfbh Rouget Salmon ardInes Scallops Sea Urchins Seaweed Shad R<1e Shrimps
Lamprey Lobster Monk ~l,mk Llyer Mussels Onaga Oysters Pef\\nnkl6 PIt-alb
Skate oft Shell Spotted Ttle Syu\l.l Sturgel,n SW<1rdf"h Tuna Turbot
MEATS Caul Fat Capon ChIcken Chicken WIn_' Duck: Mo,wvlte M
Legs C(m in 01::3rJ
Lamb
Heart
PI,F et PI' Em Rabbit
Kldn 'I-Black. Whit Foie Gras Guinea Hen Ham
quab Leg'
• tarrow
Sweetbread~
Rabbit Saw,age Bulfal" BufLtlu Testicles
Veal Veni on F,II an Con fit Gizzard
Le<;: Loin
FRUITS Strawberrie, Rasphrnes
D.lte Blueberrie Banana Hucklehern GIX hem Cranberrie
BlooJ OrIn
Prun
Per. Hnllum
ManJann Melom
RilllJlS Orange,
Grapes
n Fruit Pc he> Arne t
Pineapples L.. mnn .. Lime Pome 'r. rule Plum Quinn"
KUmyUdt
FI ~tangoe
Papa,a,
r
I
Pear Appl
limgennes Ugly Fnnt (T1\Lerr,)
S"pore, ~rar Frutt
Rhurlfb
VEGGIES Corn
Cucumber
P rln R
r
rsn.~
E~lanl
p
fennel
'n uP
G.rli,
Pepper
Ginger
Red
Hr Lemon ra
Leek Onn Pearl OnIOn
I£m
Yello"
P taloe f nn R Id.tho
t
R d, hc
Rut r 'I Sal Ih qua h Zu.:chini
Jcru I! m Art h h Taro Root Tomal
Red 'r I TurnlJK t
r
Yuc\. I R, .. 1
Rdm( Bo\.: 111 hK.ld
Beet
nc tnut
Pu r
r
10
h
HERBS p.,tI Le"f Bad Chernl Chi,'e' Cd"nrre
Dill Epa:ote Lavender IdafJoram Mint
Oregano Parsley Rosenlary
Sage Savory
Sorrel Tarragon Thyme Lemon Leaf Shiso (Oba) Leaf
Ti Leaf Juniper Berr,es
BUTTERS :'-nchLw \, Black C'he C1per Caviar
Enokis Ginger Lemongrass Parmesan
Coral Coriander CUITY Dill
Sea Urchin Smelt Roe Watercress Basil
Tarragon Chive Chervil
Meat Juice Rhubarb
Quince
SAUCES Hucklebemes lime
Garlic Shallot
Lemon Red Wine
SALADS :\rugula Coll0fL1S ' Green Oak Red Oak
Green Romaine Red Romaine Mixed Lettuces EndIves
BIbb Chard Dandelion
Frbee
Mache Mesdun Mlsuna Trevlse
Mustard Watercress Heart of Palm
PREPARATIONS Ban~ouce
Basqu
~i"oi,e
·1'"
SMOKED FISH [e'
Mussel, RockfiSh
"turgeon Hal but
:::..Ilm n :-c"ilops
Trout Tuna
Seaweed Salad OctopUS Sabd
;:,bte SOUPS
Corn
Eggplaf't
M'hrocm
Pem, P
Che,tnut Loc.lflut
Fe\
Totr..lto 1>
Pepper
Am hoke paragu-
Bean
CiUltfl"wer Broccolt Carrot Cde ry R.x.t
TERRINES Mushroom
.
,I-le
Cepe
Duck
Fre<;h '.lImon , 11~
VeniSlln
FISH EGGS CAVIAR Alll encan O$etra
Be.J 'X'\tug,l
::melt Roe
H J _ Cepe
Fun
Foie Gras
CoJRoe
Quail Egg,
WO<.-xI Ear Yellow Foot Morel
lobster Mal ut Ike &ttmM hr
AV1l1,z Fl
MUSHROOMS (
OnIOns Shallot Sahify Crab
'-hiit"k Trumpet
Truft1
1 flenne I, which is a trad\t1pnal season 109, for au age. We came up II.'It"l assem bied t h e d I~'h and put it on the menu-and that dish w,,~ on the menu for thirteen years!" , . ' 't's a lack that creates the need to ftnd a 'ultable ub tlI Someumes . opened e Al Forno ' we started out without a wood-hurnino" rute. "Wh en w oven, " reca IIs George Germon. "It was a constant source of frustration that we didn't have the space for one in the original Al Forno, But it was something that forced us to experiment with different cooking techniques that would allow us to give a similar flavor to certatO foods, and that experimentation led us to develop grilled pizza. It's our own technique in that it didn't exist in Italy when we experimented with it, but it was certainly Italian in spirit." The technique, whereby pi::a dough is cooked on a grtll to impart a unique flavor and crispy texture to the pizza, has ince been widely copied. How does the creative proces of developing a new dish unfold? In coming up with a dish, the ~ tarting point for Anne Ro 'en:weig is the ingredient' essence. "Then I go into taste memory to see what the ingredient evokes," he a) . "And I'll either hnng it back-..{)r bring it back in an even better incaman n." :he cite: a n example the meatinaf offered on her menu at her econd r t. urant, The Lob,ter luh. "We interviewed customer, and talked am ng our eh e , and found that the thmg e\'eryone remember about tin meatlt 1f ro .... 109 up wa the tomato au e. ~ () we'll u e different meats, and different c nin, but we alway incnrpl)rate a tomato au e .... Im It. And mctllne .... e get vel) pldyful!" "Playful" certainly de cribe "Jult I Ie 13' Mother' Me tI at," a fl tional creation incorporating ro ted pepper and ancho chtle ! Ja per White never h Itat m aym , "The tartmg point i the !Ogredient . What I the focu of the dl h. ] gue I'm tr<1dltional to the extent that it' u uall) the protem-what I the fl h or meat or caViar? Whotever It i , there' memmg that' the re n why I'm c kmg the dl h. And I tT) not to let the dl h go too far away from that re n. " 0 the fIT t thmg I do I Identify the product, and that' the theme l,f the dl h. And I Identi~ the characten ttcs of that particular produ t-\\ the fl h fre hly caught and bled, for example? Then It Will have Itghth dtf ferenr properti than a fl h that' not. then I go IOto the memory b nk I already know what thi fl h taste ltlee. And I already lenow whl h t n ingredIent go best WIth It. And then I would what th t ent are, and what the se n f, r them. nd th n t rt d d out of them.
Composing Dishes
'I'm tnto k\l1d l t the TV dinner arrroach-the three comrartments: rrot 10. \ egetable, ,tarch. A lot of tlInes they can all be mixed together or rht'~ oulj be handled In different ways. But I still kind of stay with that bec.lll,e, (or me, a r late needs to have those three elements," says White. "So It st,l[ts with the season. And you also have to take into account rhe occaSion. !-; It for a restaurant menu, or is it for a special dinner) Is it for fnend~ at h'1me? Is It caual, or am I trying to be fancy? Or it might have to d() with the ret of the menu, too," he says. Jimmy Schmtdt is one of a number of chefs who point out the importance of deslgnmg food to complement the wine with which it is to be served. "But in the case when you're not accounting for any kind of beverage mar-
-
-
Contrasts Between Ingredients
providing contrasts withm a dish offer rowerful opportunities for heIghtening interest as well as expressmg one's point of \'Iew. Most importantly, it is a way to achieve an all-important sen.e of balance in a dish: Characrerutlc
Spectrum
Example
Aromas
Famt/ [Tong
Vanilla CU,[, rtl with Ctnn
VarieJ
TroPILdl trun .ll.d
Fany/A,mngent
~alm n wnh hOf'cr.IJI,h
Coml renC): Cookt:J
~tare"
Cooked/Rim
[nexren IVC/E. pen tile
POtatoc, \\Ith caviar
Del15t{~ :
He,IVy/Llght
Lemon meringue
Famtltant'(
Common/Exotic
Flavors:
Sweet/Sour/~.
FlavOf "trength: MOl tne
hy/Bltter
harr/Blancl
1
rtC
1a,heJ pOra[l)e \1 Ith hwdacoche
p,td That Lemon ,ole
Wet/D~'
Big/Little
, teak with hngerltng pOtdtoe,
SPILl -Hot/Bl.md-Cool
Wd'
Temper,l ure ~
Hot/Col.l
Hot dPple pie \\ Ith \ .mtlla IU~ Lream
't xtur
Cnspyl
f1cme /horne
It
u,hl
GfilleJ chee e .md\\ Ich
. h h ingredients them elve~ . The direction f th . ,e you start \\ It t e . I nage per. , ds to 'Ho\\ do you tdke these natur In 'fedl nt ,'" thought process then procee nd enhance their natural beauty. .' I a II end up \\Ith "It you ta ke 'a f·IS h , for instance, and apply. heat to It,_ you . . f f'IS h . 1'ing to taste like fish, and It may. be tre~h, hut n )t much a piece 0 t s go . '. a , dded to, it from a gustatory po lOt ot Vlew. There' not . other excitement IS . much. from a textural, contrast 109 pOint of \'Iew. . I. Th ere 'not much \'lsua s And the flavor is kind of one-dimensIOnal. , "If you were to add a sauce to the dish, and either vegerahle or ,tarch. es t h at wou Id 0 (fer color" flavor contrasting, texrure-all of rho<.e dement would preferably nor cover up the flavor of rhe fish, but would enhance it. For ex amp Ie, comb inmg. the crunchines' of snow peas with salmon woulJ make the flesh of the fish eern ilkier 10 contrast. LtkewI:>e, a more aciJlc;]uce with the salmon would balance out ,ome of the natural sweetne,~ and f;]tty characteritic~ of the -almon. "Then, you might grill the ,almon, or pan-roa r it, \)r dust it With ~rlce) and sear It. With each one of th()e different techniques, you're qUite able to bnng out more fla\'of., or potentlall) even c,lr,nneli:e some of the natural sugar 10 the pre cnce of acid and oudd cll1 ,1d,jltlJ de ert. "Our focu I- a\\\, on th f1, \or , teo run.' , and temperatures In , de~ ert," he } ...~. e want t let pc pie know \\ hat really good stuft t,l te lIke, IOLe ~ e\\Cl) [th r ef) t f ch In! eem ro he the tlavor tanJarJ Ir [ I n re In.! < de err, a or :lin~ to :here, I tLl [Ill!.! the (rUiL ")' u hl\e to knO\\ ho\\ It b~h \c ," he y. "What hdrpen when It' cooked or pureed? Does It tum bro\\n? The fruit ta te different (film year to \earandfr mfanner to (armer. E\ef) }e r\\henapple c on t rt ,wclmn hack one of ev f) tvpc ot apple. nd then cO{ k and t;I [ th 'm. (lOod c.ltmO apple. are not ah, a\ eood cookmg applc . Rcd Ddici u < pple , for eXclmple, don't ha\e a lot oftlavor "hen cooked. We ee whi h on \\e like the texture of, and which combme well \\ Ith other ," 'ext come "thmkmg about all the po Ihtlltle for wh It that fruit could be " h ,,~ . d ' '7 ere, omen me omethmg will come out ( f thc hlu, n other time H 'II k . Do .)U \\or at It. vou \\ant to make a tart? What bout ere m puff~' W . ' f . h l C . e can t f) ere at hez PanI e) becau e we don't ha\ c .t hood 0\ cr the pastf), ection, and we don't have a brOiler \\c c n't do thtn' !Ike gratin. It IImlttng not having thu e p< Inlhue." b'en though Chez Pani se Joe n't ha\ e a hqu( r h en IS a 110\\ cd to use hard liquor 10 the kitchen, and here wIll t that freed m b, sen 109 pear herbet with grappa, r rr
[lnn her1- t \ 'Ith fr IInbol'C. "AnJ I ilkI.' Kir'>ch un pelch ,. ,trawl'erry I. , ,pe,u, ( r rl pl>ern ,herhet," ~ ht're ,IY'. ' \\ hlt about Lhoull.lte 1 "Chocolate i, a real standhy 111 the Winter here \\hen the IIPllle' ot tnllt ,ue 1(1\\'," ':ly,> here. "In coming up with ne\~ d~, crt', we run experiment . . In the kitchen a lot, te~ting recipe . T here's a lot of prc"ure to COI11t' up with ne\\' Jessens, both pressure from our cllstomer~ and ,df-Ilnpo t.'d." Wht'n compO'In!; a Jbh, Gary Danko starts hy a,king himse lf, "What I' the mam tn(!redit'nt here? What b the center of the plate? b it a roast eggplant \\,Ith lamh Ie tn, or I~ it mast lamb loin With eggp lant? Ideally, I wi ll Lhoo e h the ,ea on. "When I cook with lamh, because I take all the fat and connective tis,ue ott the meat, I have to omehow in,ulate that meat. In the 'prang, I'll take dried morel mu,hnxlms and powder them, and use that with bread crumbs and aromatic" omon s , ~arlic, parle), thyme, and make a very delicate crust. I'll 'ear the lamh in a lIttle bit of hot oil. cool It dO\m quickly, hrush It With e!!!! white, and then roll it in this cru t. From that, I'll decide. 'What am I !!OLn!,! to put thi on?' I'll thtnk, 'Well. lamb like to !!ra:e on fennel. and fennel\ jut coming tnto ea on, <;0 I'll make a really Imple ft.'nne! compute ... · Danko -ay . "Then I'll thll1k, 'Do I want till to ~o more ;"1ellitcrranean, ur what ,t ,Ie do I want to take thl m?' In 10) mmd. I'll thmk Ea ter, Ea ter bunnie , ham, a para!!u , eggs-the e are cert. In thmg from m) chlllh d th,lt I remember. Thl I the indl\'ldu I t} Ie 0 the chef omm out here-ba 1cally, where you were born, what }our Ii e °penen e .He, et ceter If I tr;weI • nd I ee. dl h that' 4ulte 1I1tere tin , .1I1d I lake the phd ph} an I It blend with mane, then I ml ht In l r rate tho e flavor r I'll take a pe(lflC CUI me-I love;"1 rocc.an and Indl n f and I \\111 u e the I ve of tho e pICe In a much m re deb ate manner In the food th, I prep.!re at The RIt:-Cariton I mm) Room." What' [h~ eoal \\ hen bUll Ian!:! a n \\ dl h~ Some of the best dIshes m the world have no ":lmpliclt'y," a~ RICk B,,} Ie ," nd \\ holene of tla- more than three major components \or and textur~. Recent! , I kept en l)Ura 109 a u -Lyd S re chef [) pull r. ck n n appcmer of !:!nlled all p , and t t.!ke e\ I) thm!:! aw I} e cept \\ hat \\oull naturan~ meld re ll} \\ell \\ Ith the I a It \\ W1m Thl \ a}, \\ hen the daner tarted at It, there \\ould reall be ( mpleten bout l.allop, nd a counterpoint 0 thl Ib lutel} delaClou I , nd then me ther element th It \\ ul ta) In the bac !!TOund the el m m u need d to lie It all to eth r. h t \ e end d up \\ Ith \\, t Iktng m napa c.lbb ~e and l:Uttlll It r II thm, h ling a Illet unlliit \\ qUite h )t, putun JU t a tin lit m ' In that h t klllet, nd then putting th nap (. "b I" m .10.1 JU t 0
0
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h ed t ... t1 it j'u,t barely wIlted the l1ap.l It went,.,on th pi It '"t t the cllnlponent, were bUilt on tl 'P 01 that, .1'1' R wlc 1nd t h en t h ere" II
tO~'ln,C It (lI: t 1t'"
" uO J ne )'llU could eat It and it telt ,l~ It every thll1g \,<1 111 perf , L I L t ' U dl :In't reall v even know what thdt W,1,,; It Wd" the kmd f l,a ance, l'U ~ll L , 'n't which all these other t1a\'ors and texture, worked th mbae kgroun d at.: aI • of how we are able tu build dl'. he" here, and se Ives" ou t ' That's. ,'1 .good example ' , \Ylhen it '
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\\'hat our goal is, basically," Undersrandmg and always respecting the e,senee of the in[!rediem I key, Mark Peel says, "Let's say you start with a quaiL A quail is a little thing. So I would always put something substantial with quail, to kll1d of buiklit up, It needs more support than, say, a pnme rib. I might put some parsnIp P ltatoes or mashed potatoes With it, as kind of a ba~e, "A lot of di,he~ have a ba,e-lIterally, a phy,ieal b,be, "omethinl:! th,lt' oomo to kind of holJ the di.h up. It'" ~omething that' going to accept the t1a\'or and pull everything together. For example, we ser\'t~ sweet Pllt,HI'e, With babr chIcken, whIch come. with a garlIc cllnnt ,md (",cawle, The sweet potato puree accept the ,harp, hitter t1avOf Ilf the t.: c,lrole and the !;drilC (onflt and the JUice that. re c mll1g out 1)1 rhe chicken, And the ~weetncss conrra~t' WIth the bltteme ~, and the ~. rll rl.'.dh fl)llnJ~ out the tld\,llr of the ,weer t.lto." "And .111 th e ft te tur .1re tCXIlife thelt peopltc re.dly lo\'e," dd n Ih crt n f the !:!drIlC ,In"l the (lltne of the tx ItO 11 Iml melt t eth r," <0-
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Juggling Flavors
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ther, J rm Idm • II nt) ch tllen 'e tor a eh t. 10 (ur h' u," y Jllnm\ c.hmlJt. c. nd \\!th I Ie thtn .' 1 II, I n ' .ood, mo' hetter. threc' gre It, In
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~ ur' tern I , nd I I nt tt" the fILl\ hem n th 10 reJlcnt palate t te them II mdt\ Idu II mg all th \\ me. Y u'n: m
n I d m't nc e HlI).I 'rec. I thlllk th It h< \e to tl t ether. I don't thtnk ,< UT \X h n ou Jrtn . gb of \\ me, )< u'rc on n \ r, e\ 'n though It' m de ur n n LI \\1: , Ith I lil h, the fld\' r hI uld c me t cthT to ere t e 1m I e, th It h\ !:ond 1m g . u need to u e upp Irttn t1t rna e that \\ rk.
H \\ to mIke ure u are ahl to I {, lrnplt h thdt! "I remember h tr mg a lilt ktnd man Ie theoT), \\ hercb I }OU \\ 'r c m!:omm \\010 rt: olen th t Jldn't re II) , t I ether, u hid t h
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_ <'e an experience that he says he'll never forget, lJt'llr _ (ierm,)n recounts " ·h haj d powerful mt1uence on him as a cook. "I was vi 't' II Ie ' . Sl 109 some peoh had a four- or flve-year-old daughter ' They weren' t r I(' I n EnglanJ who " , ' over to arL'U nl1, but I was 111 the kttchen and the little girl pulled a chair the ,W\'e and started heating up a pan, say 109 she was going to make toma'ALlr '" he remembers. After getting" the girl's assurance that her parents to 'v allo,\'ed her to do so, German says he watched her heat some butter in the ran, then take out a knife and cutting board and chop some tomatoes. She cooked the wmatoes m the butter about three minutes, and then added a httle salt and a little cream. "Would you like some?" she asked German, \\'ho roltte!y rephed, "Sure!" Once he tasted it, German says he was abolutely Hoored. "It was unbelievable," he says. "I couldn't believe that something tasted as good as it did with so few mgredients." AI Forno's menu features a potato ,oup that's equally simple. "It has just four ingredients: potatue~, oniom, butter, and water, That's it," says Germon. "And when our cook ' fir~t made it, they kert asking, 'What's the next ~ter?'" Johanne Killeen rememher~, "They found it lmrnssible to beIteve that anythinu wonJerful CQulJ re ult (wm four mgreJient·!" there are ju,t two. ~o what \ au pair an mgrl.'dlem- .ay, ~inger-\\'ith derend~ on how many ch raeter are on the t l!!e," t.'xpillm I 'orm.1n Van Aken. "In the latter ca,e, )oU 101 ht adJ m T to a 'Imple vmm;rette of (lil and an aCldie component. An Ithe three are quite dlf~ rent from one another. If there were many ch.uacter on the L1-e, It m12ht be iI mger-,oy vmaigTen~ With ~nlle I chicken an i m drame!t: d pbntam , The n!,unance betw~en th~ carameh:ed, _rn ky planwm nd the 0 ' dnd [he pungenq' ( f (he gln~er workmo ,2am ( the meat) Implen of tht: chIcken-I'm thtnkIn':! of them all ( I '10 _ t _ ther, and \\ hat the} 're , bit: to ay to e ch other. "I fmd the number 01 10 red lent n pbte to 1e a common II Cll Ion In tht da} ilnd ge, The Cah~ mla cod movement really ,celll' to .ay to It elf, 'Well, Impitclty I reall where (h punt) lte-.' The nu!!ht 10 k at me 0 m~ re Ipe and ,a), 'Oh, (hi' I' toO omph ated.' But then I'll 100 at a CUI me that I much older than m t of the cui,me, of the world, It 'C China' or orne Thai Ubme, nd a), Look who t (he) '\'e done after m n mOTl: Ccntune 0 1\ liI:dtlOn, m tcrlll' of h.win~ the e JI parate In edlco You'll I k at melr recipe nJ ou'l! ee twelve mgredlent m And er a pen (tim, )U might thm - that) uu'J get It do\\ n r three mgrcdlcm no i-c(. me qUite m\l1lm lit tiC, But the
rt:\er e I' truc III the e 111"re ,U1Llcnt lUI me . And It' n t b ~ 1I It hodgep()JL!e ... Br,ILlle) Lll;Jen agrees. "S(lIllCwne )'<1u'l1 h<1\ e ,1 dl h th,1£' too he V} a nS(ltto th,lt'.; tno nch, or a ~auce that's <1vCrrcduLeJ-and you feel re, 11\ tcrnble ,Ifter \'llu\'e eaten Lt. It'.; U'.uaJly l'>ec,lu e It\ one-dllnen Lon, I," he LY. "If there II'ere two or three dimensions, It would be ~parkll1g up jour t te buds imtedd. That', why you need the blendmg of flavors that wtll t'lke ,\\1.1) some of that richness and stir up the taste buds and cleanse the ralate .J latle bit. That's where a cook can put hLs or her creativity mto rlay. You know when you ha\'e a had l'>ottle of wine, where the fir~t sir might make you. ,I), 'Wow!' but then it's son of flat after that? It\ llne-dlmensional. And It\ nl) difference from a meal that'~ one-dimensional. I like to go tor two llr three dimemiol1S, but yet without getting ton cnmrlex. "For examrle. I did a fOlt' gYm dl . . h the other night With FUJi apple" which I'J [(la'ted and marinated \\ Ith a little l'>,llsdmlc vinegar. They Were ,till cn,p, With a bite to them. ,md 1H.!hth c,u.1meit:ed," says OgJen. "The richness at the [Ole gra~ \ .1' h,II.II1LeLl by the £,Irtncss of the ,Iprle, '0 you walked ,m'd) fr III the dl,h thmkmg, 'Th,ll \\'.1 re,llly gre,It' instl:.ld l)( 'Th~lt really hea\}.' Bctlancm!! t Icavln!! It coated nd Hah." W<1
te ,Illd tl.' (UrI:' purb your palate mstcacllJt
Achle\ 11\ 1 hal n e, \\hatc\cr th p lrtl IIlar Lh,HdCtl'fl tiL ui ,I dl,h, I the val for RI B. Ie "If I el'\ fn i Ii h, I ill", Y !Ike tl) p,ur It w1th an aCldK c m nent," he pI lin . "An \\ h n I crvc olllethll1!! CXlltlC, I ltke t pur It \\lth m thm' \ ell kn wn,"
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al\\d} (m up \\!th the \\h I I h L rk /Peell ,mel Tm,1 /Wtl'on, Campmd' heO \\111 take It t I <.:ert lin 1'0111£, IIld OlTlCtlllle I'll .ty, 'Wh~ d n't }OU al d thl ' lOd that' m\, l( ntnbutl 11," Pe I char, tt:tlZt:' hi WIfe' c ntnhutl n "t pacall} tf)'1n to add IIUI crunch (( thmg ." lIo .... ! "Fa\ bean," a\ Pe I' r bre d rumb ," the) }, 11m t Imult, neOl! h, .. om tim for me, cre lin dl hIS WIt) W m thlll that I rc II, low," 1 Ihenon "Wh n I cillO Ime \\lth the c mblOHlon 0(\\ rm apple au e and old re m. I Id I \\1 hed that I could el'\c that It the re taur, nt, but n bod} \\ould bu} It If th } a\\ It next t a pi cc 01 t\\ nn(1\ e-la er ch IC late cake. But it' proh hI} one of the most xqui ttl' mhtnatl In 10 the \\orld. a I came up With a de crt that \\ent \\ Ith It, t mbell I h thl perfect c mbmatt n, nd th t \\a vinegar pie. m bod had m me \\h t th c II a che pie, \\hl h h \m' r In It, and I hked I[ bit \\ n't \ In I) en ugh (( r me-but that \\ rtIn ' POInt I nl' l'r lake J n , c rtalnl n t frUit de rt r n tI I d I 1\\ hk th m t be m \\ h r hetw n sav'Orv
IO\'e acidIc thing with apples. Cold cream provides a contrast in tempera[Ure _)ou don't want ice cream with everything-and is also neutral, in a sense. it . rt of gives your palate a place to rest." "The first way you encounter a dish is through seeing it with your eyes," points l)ut Dieter Schomer. "And over the last thirty years, we've seen chefs making mountain and monuments on a plate-and they're so impractical. I always hate it when people cover the whole plate with cocoa. Even a little bit of a I>ree=e when you have a white shirt on, and .. .forget it! "With nout'elle cuisine, it would take half an hour to decorate the plate, and by the time you got the food, it was cold," says Schomer. "A lot of presentation was done just to show off, and I have always been against just show-
Visual Presentation
ing off." Nancy Silverton believes that most diners are very heavily influenced by the elaborate presentation of a dish. "Ninety-eight percent of the population probably sits down and ays, 'Whoa! That's incredible! That chef is o talented!' Tho e are a lot of the chef who get the attention from the pre and are making the wave the e day aero the country. But because of that, we're getting a lot of muddled food. People who don't know how to do a lot of tho e very technical thing correctly are trying, and they're just falling on their face . It make it difficult for me to find place to eat the e day. "The more whim ical or the more complicated you get with your food, the more you have to do ahead of time, and the more you sacrifice the flavor. No matter what anybody ay, you can't do it all. All you can do Ii la minute ... " (" ... you have to be able to do in a minute," quip Mark Peel.) Silverton continue, "The more complicated a di h, the more spectacular a dish, the more tale it' going to taste. There' no way anyone can prepare all the element the arne day." "I think we've really achieved a great presentation when a dish looks as though that' they way it ought to be-and hould alway be," says Mark Peel. ilvenon agrees. "When we do it right, and we've done what we set out to do, you see the dish and you think, 'Yes, that' how that dish hould always be and why would anyone ever do it any different?' That's when we've hit the
mark." George Germon agrees. "I think that food should look as natural as ~ ble. And 1 hke food to look fresh, like it was born on the plate," he says. "I don't hke tall food, squeeze bottles, drizzles, or sprinkles." In terms cJ the pre. IentatlOll of food, he says, "Our an backgrounds are the best thinp that ever hawened to us. Presental:aon coma naturally to us. It' part cJ our vocahuLary. •
Compo.
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E\'en If you know what look you'regomg after, It's ~ot alway ea y to communlL'ate It to those who will have to execute .it. "I tind that the mo t difficult dung to do IS to impart the concept of 'tree form .'" s a y~ Patuck O'Connell. "If you draw something on graph paper, cooks are very comfort_ able and say, 'I can follow this-this goes here and this goes there .' But to me, that's what we call 'tense' food. So I ,aid to this young man the other day, 'What we're trying to do here with this plate is to make it look like you picked the asparagus and you waltzed through the garden, and a little breeze blew the stuff across the plate.' "We have dishes where sauces are thrown, and some cooks think that means splat! No, no, no, no, no. It's a very delicate balance. If you're gOing to make It look wild and cra:y, you're going to have to have the element of total and complete control and precision there with it to balance it out. Some cooks don't understand It yet, what a dish is saying-[that it's] saying a whole bunch of things," O'Connell says. "l\.fichel Guerard has a very ltght touch, and since working with him in France, I've always carried that with me," says Michael Romano. "He taught me that If, plate loob ruo full, it's unappealing. The presentation of his food has a ccrtdin airine', and lightness to it, and I try to remain inspired by the same deltcarene ." [\'en , mon!.! leaJtn!.! eh ·f" there IS ,1 Wide array of optnion as to what con mure gre t pn: em tl n. "There ,1\\\ ay~ has ro be height in a dish," argue J lLhlm. pll h, l. "There h 1 to be a fllCLl~ In the way It\ placed on the plate. A dl h hould be a VI ual eXI eflence for the customer. It was with {Frenh chef Jdcyue J laxlmlO that I Ie rned pre,entation, how to get something t I - perfect." n the [her h nd, JO}CC G Id rem ,y, "I don't helieve in tall fooJ. There arc me cil he th t \OU have to cr.l h In order to eat. I don't helleve In quce:c hi: nle , an 1 I d n't belteve 111 Imlc lOb of alice dfOunJ the run of a plate. And I J n't \loam m} cu turner to Ic.lvC With par ley or cocoa on their leeve be a e omeone In the kitchen' g ne crplcaht} ot where I'm It [MI md [
"t Ifl' r btc - \\ Ith technicnlnr-ltke opportunltie,. II dbl ave e I e garnIshes. I want every little p,ece of · (It autumn,lI-lt, rlotnu', In many respect', and it greenery on a pi t t b Ir' 11 a e 0 e there for a purpose L, nl1dc tIl re more S{l . Anu I can work With three Alice Wat CIn ['\: { , Hrs s llr fllur c,1I{1r , rut they re .,uc~ strong pnmary c.olors that the plates Will seem near I, ' electriC In tcrms ot their presentation. "One {,f my key dishes IS my rum and pepper painted fish, with a mango m(1h(l, \\hlch b nearly rlack from thiS rum paint that I make, on the fish, in "rark reltef to the brilliant mango puree-pure, simple color. Then I have this bright green rorlano that's stuffed, with the stem still coming off of it. So the~re are reall\' only three colors with a little bit of hme and a little bit of riPped t1owers, but they're all so different that it allows for an extraordinariII dramatic rresentation. "I can do that becau,e of my raw materials here, which are not affected by me as the chef. but are affected by Mother Nature and her extraordinary ralette of color,. I can select these thmgs and put them together In very natural ways that will look very bright to people who are coming from areas thilt rerhar don't have these thmgs so much Within their larder. "One of the mo t important thmg s m food is texture," ,ays Van Aken. "I think that one of the rea~om we regan tacking thmg, m a naroleon-Iike way wasn't really ro pre the phalltc o pp rtUl11ty but to offer a chance for the fork, as It deltvers an mtru,ion to .1 pre entan n, to get it 'tratum of textures that )\1U'1l rush through, a that when }OU get your fmc, you'll have your little btt of mashed rota toe and yo ur little bit f crunchy I' taW or plantain chip and your den e meat)' pr tem (r III \ our (I h o r pork or whatever in one nice bite, so that when It\ m your m uth, It' like, '\'l/o\\'!' It\ all kind of bouncll1g around in there and offering thl ch fdal o pportunity, as opposed to )U5t a note." "Pre entation h a on Ileran n," admit Altce \X' ter , "I d n't like for everything to be tlat on a plate-and 1d n't like, oviou ly, for everyth1l1g to be tall. But, aga1l1, I ltke to rely o n the cl Ie. I hke the look of lime-green fa\'a beans with a little pl11k pr luna or alami, 1 love those color" And 1 love all the maroon color of (ood, like the radicchIO that look like pnrrot tuhp ,all tuped, It' iu t fanta t1 . I love all the color' of tllmatoe, together, mcludmg the unlikely one -the art of brown one and yellow one. There', a \\ hole palette to be can Idered, and I'm very 1I1fluenced by that, by color. But, 0 VIOU ly, ta te I number one; I would never use the color if It didn't tel te ood," Mary ue Mllhken agree that her iir,r priomy 111 a di h i ttl teo thmg I more 1m ftant to me than h w that (ood' g01l1g to ta te," he "For me, 1 hke my alad to have every ingle leaf covered with exactly h n 'ht m unt f dre mg. Th leave ren't g01l1g to tand up," 10' < ]
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8
o
"We do lots of great sauces that are very thin," adds Susan Fent~er. "And they don't look that great on a plate; they don't look nearly a, good a something that's reduced and sort of demi-glace-like, because they don't coat the plate as well." The problem, it seems, comes when taste is sacrificed to appearance. "Now there are some people, like [Charles] Palmer, who do vertical food beautifully. But people will always go to see the latest madness," says Jeremiah Tower. "When 1see an army of peas around a plate, 1 know that they've been handled and are probably cold. In terms of the appearance of a dish, I find few things more beautiful than a bowl of sliced white peaches, maybe with some raspberry cream on top." Lindsey Shere admits that when it comes to desserts, "I'm a minimalist at heart. I'd rather see a really beautiful combination of colors, flowers, and leaves on a plate, rather than fireworks. I find it often detracts from the taste of desserts. When you put too many things together, not everything can be perfect. The caramel can get tacky sitting on the plate while the dessert is constructed, or the cookies can get soft. Another thing I don't like is seeing an even number of things on the plate; I prefer seeing, for example, three sorbets, which 1 think appear, more halanced." "One of the mo't important things in any dessert is texture," add~ Franr;oi Payard. "There i nothing more bonng than a dish with no texture. Even in ,\ JI,h like oeufs a III nCI!!C [floating Islands], which emphaSIZes the softne" of the fluffy egg white, there i" carame!t:ed sugar to add CrISpiness." Pa\'arJ rec.lll proudly that j leu York Times food writer Florence Fabncant had p,ud him cl compliment at a recent food event. "She pomted out that 111 my de erts I wllrk more on tla\,()[ than on structure," says Payard. "\Xlhen )"llU think aOOm It, you rc,JIi:e that when your grandmother made a good dl,h, what made it ~OOJ \\,a,n't how It looked but what It tasted ltke. Fllr example, a floating Island de,~ert ha, no structure. But when your grandmother made it, ho\\ wa, it? Perfect!"
A Final Word
No matter how many gUldel1l1e, are offered on h"w to compo. e a Ji,h, In the end m heauty he' ( nil' in the eye of It beholder--or taster! Knowing this, Rick Bayle, say", "I get re,lll~ fru,trclted with a numher of my cnob rhe,e lay., who want me tlo explain to them, why? 'Why?' 'Why Jo YOli J( l rhl~?' 'Why Jo you do that?' Wh<1[ I uStlPersonally, I have ceased countmg the nights ally amwer b, 'Well, just taste it.' And I let them ee If spent m the attempt to dIscover new combma- they can internalize H. Sometllne chef.., need tort (If l s when completely broken WIth the fatIgue of commune with the lI1gredlent HnJ then t~ te th tll1 al vy day my body ought to have been at rest di h to kno\\ whether they've gotten It n 'ht or n t I -Augu e Escoffer teel very trongly th, t }Oll Jll t ha\e to til t It mJ
A
t
n"Cdll'~ he lo\"e,. the. \'ery, \'ery deltcate taste of turbot ,eremla ] ' h T,ower can't lin l"lI1e ramn!! It with anything more complicated th ,, " ' an a h 0 II an d' alse sauce , h ment an \.I ,,)me httle hoIled potatoes. With the hollandaise , t h ere's an ennc Ad at' the thH)r wIthout adding lots of distracting flavors" , h e says, n T,ower thmb that pl)rk doesn't need more than a sprinkling of black pepper: HI re!te\'~ strllngly in the marriages of flavors!" l!"
When we asked leading chefs how they knew that certain flavors or foods would complement each other, the usual response was something along the 11l1es of, "You just know, After tasting so many different foods and food combinations, you store the ones that work in your head. When you've accumulated enough, you can even get pretty good at predicting which combinations you haven't yet tasted will work, based on the ones you know that work'. " Wondering how we mIght shortcut the process of gaining decades of fir~thand experience led to our research and development of the following charts. Based on our conversatIons with chefs as well as our researching some of the best respected culinary books (including those written by leading American chef, and recommended by them as critical to an aspiring chef's education), we compiled a treasure of food combinations that are known to work. How to use them? 'X'hen your wrong pOint for composing a dish is a particular ingredIent, you may wl,h to can the It [ for inspiration for a posSible mmrlement or complement', \\'hlle man\' In!:redICnt, are available vear-round, ~ea onal peab dre noted for cert,lIn Item~. In aJJition, in some instance~, rreferreLI cookmg technique ,m: mdlcated. You might also he inspired hy the example , ofhow our chef, ha\ e combined the ingreuients anu complements on their own menus. How not to u,e them? Y()U haukl remember that your own palate is paramount. There may be orne combmati n ll,ted that are not to your peronal likmg, anu there are certamly combm:1nom not ll~ted that work as welJ-or even bener-than tho,e mc1udeu. Your goal should be to cook to ple of contemporan chef, nJ r hi t neal rc e rch.
•
en CI) .c uI ,
ca
:E
FOOD MATCHES MADE IN HEAVEN *
ALMONDS apples apncot, caramel chocolate
raISin ... nce ... trdwbernes
coconut cream plums prunes
ANCHOVIES ()nlon ... par ... ley
eggs, hard-h(,iled odriic
~
(Fall)
APPLES ll.ltmcal
CIder
almmd IpplCjol k bacon
cinnamon cl \"t"
pCdr,
(
pepper, black
(
pl!:!noit
r mhern rcam unmt , hi u tard
JI
t::
bld\..khcrn l-lue che l-rand\ bro"n ugar l-utter l-utter utch Calvado caramel ca la
eelcn chee e hc lOut
r.ll1!.:i."
nll r
'IT
h
lemon ldetr I mil'l ru m )Ia nutmeg nut, t: IX'Clall\ aim nd or pecan
I Itch III pmlme prunc ..jum e
.
.
ral ... n!>
n ema!) rum au'rkraut au I 'e hell") ur en: 1m U'H
vanilla vcnnouth \In' 'aT
~alnut "IOC,
red
<>gun
•
Many 0 these combinatIOns are considered clasSIC and are espeoaHy wide prac bced These are ndtcated by boIdtaw type
(Sprmg)
ARTICHOKES sausage thyme tomatoes truffle" white vinaigrette wine, white
hollandaise sauce lemon mayonnaIse Mornay sauce mousseline sauce mushrooms olive oil onIons Parmesan cheese parsley perrer, e-pecially black and red remolLiade auce
aloiI anchovies bacon bast! bay leaves bread crumbs butter cheese, goat chervil cream cumm fennel garlic hazelnut'
bake braise marinate TOast
steam
ArtIchokes, Carrots and ZucchinI WIth Lemon and Dill-Joyce Goldstein Baby Artichokes Fned WIth Lemon, Roast GarlIC and Shaved Parmesan -JIMmy 5chrr dt
ArtIchokes Stuffed -AI ce Waters
th Bread Crumbs AnchOVies Garltc and Parsley
ARUGULA avOCil
(Summer) lemon h\c(11 P nne n ehe r ta
1
hurter carp, ee l chee • blu garlte
pel:dfu
P1Cn(l1t P( l(,Utle, r,lvlu!t walnut
r
Arugu a and Rad cch 0 w th Gorgonzola Pear. and Walnut --5 sa Fe 9 S " App e and Arugu a Sa ad With Lemon and Capezzana Olive OJ!
-Geo ge Ge r on
0
e
Arugula Salad With Smoked Pears Sp ced Pecans and Sftlton Cheese -C Sc I'Ig Avocado Papaya and Arugu a Salad- Jer Meyer Lemon and Arugula SOup-A
Wa! r
a Tow
r
(Win r)
BANANAS cream cream cheese custard eggs fruits, especially tropical (e.g., mango, papaya. pineapple) gm ginger honey ice cream Kirsch lemon lime malt maple , yrup nut" orange..;
alcohol almonds apricots Armagnac bacon blueberries brandy brown sugar butter Calvados caramel cardamom chicken chocolate cinnamon coconut Cognac coriander
n tnllt pecans pmeapple,
pa~ll
pralme~
raspberne' rum SOllr cream strawberries sugar, brown or whitt: vanilla yogurt
bake broil poach Tat('
"Rum can bnng up the flavor of bananas "-Fran~ols Payard Banana-Toffee French Toasl-Susan Fenlge r & Mary Sue MillIken Honey-F(led Bananas WIth Caramelized Gmger Sauce-Susanra Foo Banana-Rum Ice-chns
Sc~ es ng6'
Grilled Sausage Skewers WIth Fresh Apncots, Jalapenos, and Chlpotie Vmalgrette and Whole Gn/l-Roasted Banana-Ghns Scr'eSJnger Roasted Banana Kugelhopf Double Dark Chocolate SemI Freddo -Lydia Shire Cuban Banana-Rum Custard Tart-Norman V n Aken
BARLEY almonJ, cabhage ham
p.lr Icy rea~
BASS almonJ, anchllvie artichokes butter wpers
12
carTOh chive" Citrus
cOriander fennel
A
,
girlie glllger leek lemon
potatoes shallots thyme tomatoes wine, red
mint mu~hrooms
,llive oil
oranges
peppers
BASS, STRIPED
bake braise fry griU Toast
(See also BASS)
basil cream dill
BEANS,BLACK avocados bacon cheese, especially goat chiles, e pecially serrano chives cilantro coriander cumin
eggplant mustard olives
roast
(Winter)
creme fraiche epazore garlic ham hocks jalapeno Madeira mint onion
oranges peppers nee salt pork sour cream tequila tomatoe
Frijoles Refntos: Black Beans Fned with Garlic. Omon and Epazote. Topped WIth Queso Fresco-Rick Bayless Habaiiero Black Bean Soup With Avocado-Shnmp Salsa-Mark Miller
(Sprlng-Summer)
BEANS,FAVA bacon
mushrooms
butter CIlantro
olive oil pancetta
cream
parsley
garbc
Peconno cheese
ham Ieeb lemon
roeemary
sage
salt
savory pinach
thyme vinaigrette
BEANS GREEN
aJmoods
anchovies bacon
basIl bechamel sauce
butter chives cream
dIll garlk: lemon
mushrooms mustard
l8Vory soureR,m
nutmeg nuts, especially hazel· nuts olive oil onions oregano
tomaltCet
parsley pimentos
Itl II
rosemary
BEANS, LIMA Noon blown ....
IF lie
chreK.
white walnuts WOKelte..•..
boil ".".
Pannesan cheese
mmt
be.,
vine"t
SEAN SPROUTS
SEEF basil
beer bearnaise auce hordelaise aUCe Burgundy carrot chiles chive corn hazelnut horseradish
Madeira
soy auce
vinegar, especially wine
marrow mushrooms mustard onions orange par ley pepper, black pepper potatoes prune scallion shallots
soy vinegar, balsamic wine, especially red
boil braise grill marinate pot-roast roast spit-roast
stew
Fillet of Beef with Oysters. Black Pepper, and Port Wine-Gary Danko Gnlled Beef Tenderloin with Onion Beer Sauce, Horseradish Mayonnaise, and Marble Potatoes-Bradley Ogden Patma Smoked Beef Tenderloin wIth Horseradish Glazed Potatoes and Spinach-Joach m Spl chal
BEEF HEART horseradish
papnka parsley
marjoram
rosemary
bacon
bake
I""use griU
(Winter)
BEEF RIBS gInger
horseradish
mustard potat
tomatoe
n g
•
0
BEET GREENS anchones r.utter horseradish
mustard sour cream
saute
fennel ginger horseradish lemon
smoked fish, especially trout or whitefish sour cream tarragon vinaigrette vinegar, especially hal,amIC, sherry and white wine walnuts walnut oil watercress
BEETS allspice anchovies apples bacon bechamel sauce brown sugar butter cheee chives cloves cream
ma.che mustard nutmeg onton· orange raprtka parslev potatoes pr 'C1uno
creme [raiehe cucumber curf) Jill c u " , hard-c ~~
alt alt rk hclllor
ked
bake hoil steam
We were not th t. rst to do a beet nsollo. but I thmk the nsollo we serve IS exc lmg We use organ c bets from a farm wh,ch were pIcked that mornmg The color IS the most ntense fu ch a a vIbrant purple-red I used to hate beets but I m mad about beets nght now I love the nchness and deepness of therr f,avor- t s I ke an exp os on Lyd Sh re Salad of P,C led Beets Oregon Blue Cheese and Walnuts-Gary DanKO Beet Salad With Watercress and HorseradIsh Vmalgrelle-Mark Pee
BERRIES (See also specifIC berries) brown ugar cream
Framoot • maple vrup
BLACKBERRIES (See also RASPBERRIES) apple cmnam n cream c lard honey
lemon maple yrup mIlle mues" ( range
A
(Spring-Summer) our cream )ogurt
(Summer) peache pbern r ger mum trawbern
. . . .n'd .... Umon$1\ •
JofceGoktllllt
_". PI Pc ... In LMnon CtutI wIIh V8Il . . 8 ••1
,,'1'
1fI_ _ _Jlmr", SctwNII
. _ , e«m'J? ur7l} sa..
_a ....
R
(Fall)
cream
panley pepper, e pecially hot tomato sauce walnuts
creme fraiche curry prlic
ham •.£
,_ . .eciI I
,
del",
1811
o,e.w.r. Gruyae or
Pas
n
d.... '" chivet
hollandaise sauce lemon
bake
Momay sauce mousseline sauce mushrooms
puree
boil deetrfry raw
mussels nutmeg
saute steam
nuts
a..- crumN
olive 011
(Winter)
a Is
n m
parsley potatoes
sour cream
shallots moked
vodka
toast
lmon
ffr '1y ,lade Hot Potato Waffles Mth Ounce of Osetra CaVlar-Lydia Shire Q J.
c..w LMnon Mannated Potatoes
and Some TradItIonal GamlSh
-IClIChiim spichaI
(Summer) cuny
diU fennel holl8ndail.e sauce
walnu
(Fall Win r)
CELERY ROOT bacon bread crumb' butter caraway seeds cheese. especially Parmesan and cream fennel garlic hollandaise sauce lemon
WI,S
mayonnal'e mustard nutmeg olive oil omons parsley potatoes squash. butternut thyme "megar, especially white wine
\\
lnut,
bod braIse dt!ep-fry
f0'
puree raw
saHte ~ream
Savory Celery Root Flan and Vegetables a la Grecque, Essence of Sweet Garlte and Kalamata Oltves-~Cnaf e Palmef Celery Root Grattn-A'1ne Rosenzw€ 9 Celery Root wrth Mustard Mayonnaise-A. ce Waters
CEPES
(Fall)
bacon bal leave
beam.lI
Juce bre d crum burrer che c, pe I II Gru}ere r P nn an cream egg fennel fl h [Ole gr garlic lemon lem nth m
mu t rd nu me' Ih oil It .. c pa n Plrm n h par Ie p td pepper pot It poultry
hake brOil fry
n
grill
butter chef'. II chIcken cream
creme frauhe q:p
uce
\\ III
raw
r n hallot
CHANTERELLES bechamel
our ere.lIn truftle • \\ hlte vcrmouth Vlnc .Ir, e peclally wme \\ <.IIlll[ \\ Inut tI
£1 h game garlic herbs leek lem n {fal
saule
(Summer-Fall) ohH: uti nan
panle pep r "I rahhll
h II [
CHICK PEAS earn [ Cilantro C0nanJer
ouscou cumin garlic
lemon lemon. preserved mmt olive oil onions parsley
(Summer) peppers. especially red rosemary spinach tahini tomatoes yogurt
CHICKEN coriander corn cranberrie cream curry dill endive escarole fennel five-spice powder
{oie gras
achiort almonds apples
Annagnac asparagus
_OIl
barbecue sauce
basil
beer b&maise sauce blood brandy bread emma.
Fontina chee garlic gmger go chi berrie grape herb honey horseradl h lemon lime Madeira mangoes marjoram mmt morels m brooms
caN! IE
mustard
Catvado.
mussels nutmeg olive oil olives onaons oranges oregano
Qa" 1M MUlE, pcwlly
chal'
parsley peas pecans pepper pineapples plums prunes Riesling rosemary savory sour cream soy auce tar ani e tuffing weetbread weet potatoe tarragon tenyaki auce thyme tomatoe truffles vinegar. e pecially red wme walnuts wine, e pecially white yogurt
bak braise broil
fry
grill marinate
roast
saute
en paprtka
Parmesan cheese
I C()ftlinued OIl nat /lfJfI')
a
LIVERS M.ieira
IDUIhrooms onions
salt IOUrcteam
penley pepper
$ad CI*"'''' LIver CfOStini-George Germon & Johanne Killeen ,. r
11.~ ChIcken LiwHs with Apple Raisin Chutney, Spinach, and It" 111 SS~ 0r8aIng-ChrIs Schlesinger
,.112 ext CIfj*-' WingII with Unorthodox Chopped LIVe,.
Joachim Splichal
(WInter)
6p bam
. ". I"
.,
vinegar walnuts
DUll [
nile
1*-.
piltachlOl
rlrfbemes rum
tea. elfecia1ly Ead 0Iey
vanilla verbena
""' * 1. walnua
,.111" __ and,., •...
MJ PI ,.,.,., . . . - -
COCONUTS apricots bananas chocolate custard fruits, especially tropical (e.g., banana, lime, mango, passion
(Fall) fruit, pineapple) nuts, especially tropical (e.g., Brazil, cashew, macadamia) pineapples
coconut Mtlk TapIoca Croustillant with Saffron Coulis a d P' Je.:.,-lOLlIS Pc: 3dl,) n meappfe Sherbet Macadamia Nut and Coconut Tart-L,ndsey Shere Coconut Flan wIth Mango
In
Sauternes and Coconut Chiptr-.Norman Van Aken
COD aioli bay leaves beans, black, fermented black olive butter capers caraway seeds Champagne chervil conancler leaves eggplant garlic gmger hollandabe.auce horseradbh juniper berrIes
leeks lemon milk mushrooms mustard oltve OIl olive onIOns parsley pepper potatoes rosemary
ake shallot :oy auce thyme
tomatoes truffles vinaigrette vinegar, especiaHy sherry Wine, white
boil braise bruil fry pan-fry poach
roast, saute steam
Sauteed Fresh Codfish with Vegetable Basqualse-Je~f' Lo.) s Pa 3d!1 Eqgpant-Crusted Ma'ne Cod ~ ,h Bay Shnmp Thyme Roasted Vegetables. ana Port w'''e Essence-C"larl p ... 'TlePan Fr ed Cod With Tomato-Mmt Yogurt Sauce-Cr- s Scl'Jleslrger
C ' d At a'll c Cod In Proveoyal Tom:.1to. Garlic and Bas/I Broth- A, ce Wale's
111
lettuCe. 81 bb {.otIi dresstng Madeira mangoe
mayonnaise momay sauce muhroom mustard
nutmeg onions orange
parsley pepper. black potatoes
rernouiade rice scallions sherry sour cream tarragon Thousand Island dress109
Tabasco sauce tomatoes
truffles. black vinaigrette vinegar wine. white Worcestershire sauce
boil poach
Peeky Toe Crabmeat Salad with Avocado and Citrus Vinaigrettes _Terrance Brennan
portuguese Crab Cake, Avocado, Papaya, Watercress, and Mint with CitrusHot-Pepper Vinaigreffe-Joyce Goldstein Timbale of Vtrginia Lump Crabmeat and Spinach MOusse-Patrick O'Connell Mustard-Crisped Crab Cakes on an Acorn Squash Ratatouille -Anne Rosenzweig
Crab Ravioli with Black Truffles--Jeremlah Tower Crab Salad with Mango, Cumin Crisps, and Gramy Mustard -Jean-Georges Vongenchten
Dungeness Crab Cake with Meyer Lemon and Pepper Sauce-AI ce Waters
(Spring-Summer)
CRABS, SOFT-SHELL almonds basil
honey
beaN. black
lemongrass
butter
lime
capen caJiOb
mayonnal pancetta
cayenne
parsley
chiv diU
pepper
aarlic
pagnoh soy sauce
Iia I!r
lemon
Pernod
pinach tartar sauce tomatoes vinaigrette vinegar
broil
~e~fry
griU
""'"
SoIr-st.l CnIb with Pancetta Butter-Jean Lou 5 Pa ladin • • AId SolI Shell Crabs Mth SpiCy Carrot Sauce MIChael Romano
ftM.Cooud SolI Shell CntbB with papaya and Llme--NorJnan van Aken
(Fall)
CRANBERRIES apples cinnamon cloves
oranges pears
sugar walnuts
(Spring)
CRAYFISH avocados basil bay leaves brandy bread crumbs butter carrots cayenne cheese, espeCIally Gruyere and Parmesan C ognac coriander
cream or milk dill garlic hollandaise sauce leeks lemon mayonnaIse nutmeg onions parsley saffron shallots ,herry
sorrel tarragon thyme tomatoes truffles vinegar wine, white
boil grill saute stew
Chilled Crayfish and Cranberry Bean Soup with Ratatouille and Opal Basil -Dar e Bouud
Warm Salad of Crayfish with Cucumbers and D,II-Jererrlla'1 Tower
CUCUMBERS ancho\'ie, ba,t1 burter celery eed chervil chile, chives cilantro cream cream chee'e dill fennel Feta chee e
14
(Spring-Summer)
ho r eradl h lemon lime
pepr er alt .,our cream strawberries tomato ~ucc
man!.,! e
[oma[oe~
mayonnal e mint
vinegar, especldlly white wme yogurt
garlic gln!.{t!r
nutme~
o!tve 011 onions, e,p':cl(lll; rcd rar,ley
rau simmer
CURR NTS Immd heme
cream pears
(Summer) prunes raspberries
e qUIte often used to rem force th l a k nd of lemon.-oJ 1'1e G. 9son e favor of other frwt, as if
CUSTARDS almond, banana, berne caramel cherry ch colate cmnamon coconut
coffee Cognac Cointreau gmger lemon maple Mar~ala
passion fruit pineapple nee rum trawberries vanilla
orange,
Chocolate Bf/oche Custard Bread Puddmg wdh Chocolate Sabayon --8nd ey Ogden Chillea Pmeapple-Moscato Zabaglione---NI ct,ael Romu'1o Banana Creme BrOlee-L ndsey Shere Caramel Rice Fla". - aney Silerton Truffle Custard With Asparagus and Lobster Sauce-J€reM Smoked Salmon Custard W th Fennel Ju ce-Jea'l Georges
r Tower Vongerlc~ten
(Spring)
DANDELION GREENS bacon chee e garlt
lemon
rI o\t\e II mu
t
omon vmegar. e"peCially red Wine
(Fall)
DATES almond pnco bacon
Clnn,)mon cream cream chee e
br nd l. rame!
gmger nut
choc.ol te
orange
pecans rum vanilla walnuts
DUCK
currants. blKk cuny
dude hvets figs garlic gin . gmaer
Grand Manlier hoisin sauce honey jumper berries
ktmKp J8tJ
lemon lentils
EGGPLANT (continued) F
Soy BraIsed Chinese Eggplant wIth ZucchIni and Mushroom Grilled Eggplant with Shallot and OlIve
ad
Mark M ;er
EGGS
anchovies asparagus bacon bread butrer carer
ENDIVE apple, bacon heans, "hit beets blue che e hr J crum butter chee e, e peel II Gru\ r r P rm cr ~ m
f. Ou S do £'ld Bue Ch
(Winter)
B
ugar tangennt thyme vin igrettl': walnuts watercress
hm
u c Ins
rt
brmse
hee e
n
rau m
• h. 1m n r trout
.all}
saute teu
d Wat rere 5 ~ 'h W. nut
Bacon Pe.Jrs
"0" ",,!I WIS.'>.
End v
parsley pepper peppers, green potatoes ratatouille salt scalltons shallots shrimp smoked salmon sorrel spinach tomato truffles watercress
caviar cheese chicken livers chives crab cream croutons fines herbes ham herb, hollandaise auce morels mu-hroom onion' Parm em chee,
App e nd Cre
nd B ue Chee~;e ~
tn H
tAp
FrJ'e
1
d
ESCAROLE apple, bacon . cheese, especially Fontina, ~1o:2arella, and Roquefort chiles cal'er~
(Winter)
currants eggs garlic olive oil olives onions vmegar
walnuts
braise raw
saute
FENNEL butter celery root cheese, especially goat, Gruyere. and Parmesan chesmuts coriander cream fruit garlic hearrs of palm
(Fall) lemon mushrooms olive oil oltves Onions oranges pancetta Parmesan cheese peppers Pernod
potatoes sherry thyme tomatoes truffles vmaigrette
braise raw
saute
Braised Fennel with Prosciutto and Parmesa~ Nor'l1an V(}."1 Aker Shaved Fennel and Parmesan with Summer Truffles-Alice Waters
(Spring)
FIDDLEHEAD FERNS bacon butter hollandaise sauce leels lemon
nutm~
deep-fry
oltve oil
steam
onlOn~
,hallob vinaigrette
(Summer-Fall)
FIGS almonds ant e hr<>wn ugar caramel cheese, e peclally blue and g t chOCOlate
cinnamon
creme fralehe
cinnamon basil cients reel, candled coconut cream Cointreau C rnmeal cream cream che e
Curai):ao ginger honey la\'ender lemon Marsala (conunued on ""XI page I
creme ang/mse
p
"
1
•
L
119
FI H SMOKED 3H. do, c~ra'
cr~Jm .: h~ese
cucumhers eggs, hard-hoiled horserad ish
lemon onions
FLOUNDER hutter C,'gn3c lerncm rnu,hro,lm s
mustard
braise broil
grill
poach Saute
Fiounder IS really, really mild I thmk you've gotto be I I d v. very careful when you cook "oun er rOU ve really got to keep It very very si I y: mask It qu ekly -.Jasper White mp e. ou can really
FOIE GRAS
(Fall)
all'pice apples
garbc
artlchok~ hearts
grapes
hlooJ range~ handy cabbage cel~r)' root , cel'es cherne Cinnamon clovt" Cognac curran eu tard Jalkon
t!reen
r:
gratn~
lemo n lo!- rer Madelf'\ mu hroom nutmeg nUb OnlOl1s pc he, pepper, bbc:k pi t. hi ), polent,l
pomegranates port \l'me Ljumces ral,m ~,1It
shallot 'tar ani,e t rragan truffles turml' vmegar, especi.llty sherry walnuts wme, espeCialty auternes
e l ness of 10 e gras s complemented by frUits wh ch add a tart or ae d c po ent , e served t w th toasted panettone wh ch has candled rmd m e Fo e Gra Au Po vre w th Organ c Gram Salad Carrot and nmO"'anate ~na grette-Terrdnce Bre r a Fo
G
w th FUj Apples Carme zed Omans VefJus Sauce Gras n F e h Herb and Back Pepper Gelee served
1 ounce lleeu lentilt 1/2 11th, blanched
.... 1_
ounce .._ _ n I ted in butter Iftd ra.Slid in .......... oil Ira ..
I
17 I
"'met'
GOOSE apples blrkl CJhb.1(:': (er('~
chestnuts <,arhc ~
gln~er
hl11l<1nJ
h"nc\'
horseradish lemon mustard onions oranges pepper plums potatoes prunes
nce sauerkraut soy sauce stuffing turnips wild rice
roast
GRAPEFRUIT hanana' bnl"cb 'rr~ L1ts G.lmran cJ,he w, Chamrag ne cheese, 'l,(t chICory cabhage, napa C1tnl' frUits, other COll1treau
(Winter) coriander
pineapple pomegranate raspbernes rosemary rum shellfish sherry strawberries sugar, especially brown vodka
Cura~ao
fi"h gm Grand Mamier honey melon mmt offal oran!,."!e
C ''Us Compote WIth Ruby Red GrapefrUIt Gran'te- -Brad ey Ogdc!l GrapefruIt and Pomegranate Tart-I.linmy Sct:'Tl d
Pmk GrapefrUIt and Champagfle Sherbel-LlOdsey Shere Grapefru I-Campan Gramte-...
n G:...org
(Summer-Fall)
GRAPES brandy
brown ugar chee e, e pectally soft "hlte (e.g., Brie)
Vongenchter
lemon melon mmc
ra pberne
our cream ,traw\)erries ....'3lnub wme
GREENS bacon butter
cre-dm
garlic
ham !em >n
mmt mu hroom mu tard onion
pancetta
,alt pork ,lu>,lgc <;oy vinegar
walnuts
pepper, black
D
125
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES btch,lmei ,auce bueter cream garlIc g!O~er
ha:eln ut
hollandaise sauce lemon Mornay sauce Parmesan cheese parsley scallions
chiles cilantro
citrus, especially lime
cucumbers
bake boil fry
puree steam
(Winter-Spring)
JICAMA cayenne
(Winter-Spring)
lime mangoes oranges salt vinaigrette
pan-fry rau.
Ersalada de Jicama ' Jicama Salad with Cucumber, Pmeapple and Tangy Orange Dressmg-Rick Bayless Watercress and Jicama with Lime & O/Jve 011 -Susan Fer geT & Mary Sue Mill en
JOHN DORY bast! hay leaves hutter caviar chives
lemon lemon thyme
cream
~dge
garlIc
,hallm
mu,hro m'
(h)me tomatoes WlOe, e peel,llIy white
rar,ley
peppers, red and ~ello\\
poach saute steam
(Winter)
KALE bacon cheese
cream
garlic lemon oltve ot!
0l110n,
potatoe,
KIDNEYS
Madeira tvlar,aia ml)rels mushrooms mustard nutmeg onions rancetta parsley nee salt
brandy butter cayenne ceres CLlgnac cream curry gin h,)r'erad ish jU!1lrer berne, lemon
,h,lllot ,herry " lur c.re,ln1 verm()uth watercres wine. red or white
broil fry smite
(Winter)
KIWI FRUIT
PfI.)
lime
appb bcmana: cucumber,
nut'. e,pecldll) c \,he\\ '.
ha: ·lnuh .lml ma
h ne~ Klr h
I
ellitt,)
rrawherrie (,lmarillo
L'Iml1
rlO_ P;: I n frull
Icm n
Pa son Pru t Blood Orange and Meyer S g r nd Coo les-Joyc Go d
Easte Bas et f Sorb t Lemon Ba d CodK
(Wmter)
KOHLRABI
km
behJmel l'-uner
nutm p r le
bake bOIl team
e
(Fail-Winter)
KUMQUATS m mertppl
1\ t
II
fal
rum
\ !nllla
\udk 1
(Spring)
CllU'Cl1U,
crah cream cumin currant, curry dalhm
almond, an(ho\'ie~
am-eed apple' .prICo t ' artichoke heart
oocon basil bJ\ leave, beans, e'pcclJlly t1a~eolet:. Teen or \\ hlte Huebernc bread rumb capeT' ,arJam m ca~enne
chee e, c pe 1.111 F ta and Parm 111 (hernc~, JneJ ur
h tnut pur
chI! hl\c
(Ilinn c,nn m n
\.1
dill eggplant endive fennel
fOie gras garlic !:!tn!:!C r
!!rapefruit Nemolata h.I:e1nu ,to~ ted honey Jumper berne lemon Mademl
mint m )Tel muhr m mu t rd mu rd It .. Oil
J
.
n
or
0 'C
lr
1J.O
tarra~on
thyme tomatoes truft1e" e'rectally black veal ktJney' vmal!:!rctte \ me ar, c, LClllly red \\me \\alou "ine, C'Pl' iallv red yo<~urt
ZlI Lhml
0\1\ 001
pignoli pimIentos pineapple plums pomegranates prunes red peppers rhubarb rice rosemary rum sage soy star amse tamarind
bake br(lJse brOIL
gn,j
par 1 .. pem pepper. bl k
roast
d0 A
a
n rYlb
,(.
And I tn (.
5 yJU
HprtJf,a P
t
Yogurt
Lamb in P weatring
C
t
th
eet Potatoes
Paafl:k ()'C-c eU ATLn'1U1 WASHINGToN • it. _,
"'p.
-Iat:: ........ for niDety-eiaht doUan. INrh Mft IP do me nat bat thiDa- 1love t.becue rho II Q . ' ' ' . , ill &oaa New YcIIk
-,...... --«
die
IIIIkxllAl
ftavoa
«"he
tbmuah.
1111 km ,.. . . ., 4C ID _IDa Ie. 7lofp'sre .....~. . t:l p:pd. rl
our ....
,e._.
""IIcp"...... "W. ""_ 7~ 1*17&
tee.
the
m
II
Cd." _ _rial ,wen poe. •
+lD
Red \VinL Suuce 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1/3 cup chopped white mushrooms 1 carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped 1/2 onion, coarsely chopped 1 shallot, coar ely chopped
1/4 cup all-purpose flour 1 clove garlic, minced
2 tablespoon · chopped fresh parsley 2 tea ·pOClOS fre h
ro~emary
fre~h
tarragon
2 tea:r )on,
2 b,l\" leaw. 2 quart· chicken lOck or water ,It-erncr
_ (dbl
( melt 1 p",re
1t
•
Ie I nJ choppe I
nd rc hi lU
d
Pl'l per to (,lte
r
IU
TIll
m
U'
h
m
teel hlade. puree the ke£l.:hur, • mu t lrd. 'Tilh, co, IOtl hrown II ',Ir. et \ rid \ m Itl\, nee ntl kept re Tlg-
rv."'1 "VlC ;
3uvignon
d 1 In
un
au
II ver m dlUm-hl h nd hilt !Od cook until the
t, he [the nt
re
n
eep r 5 ( 6 mmute. tlrrmg ({ pre\ em
m
3 me
t
\I,
tT
n
II
r)
m ( , nJ
until r d
t
tI
kl .
rrag n, b l~ Ie l\ , t k r \I, t r r It nd pepper. Immc:r t r 1 1
4. F,lr each (UP of 'trained wine sauce, add 2 tablespoons of the barbecue Thl' ~,l\lce may he made several da\Js in advance and ke Pt re f'nger",lU(l~. 1 ,lre,1. [0 cook
I. Preheat the ll\'en to 400
lamb
0 •
SeaSlm the lamh with salt and pepper and brush each side with the basic .' barbecue sauce. 3. Grill L1f broil the lamb enough to crisp and lightly char the exterior on al\ 1
5. Remove the lamh, place on a cutting board. and let rest for 5 minutes. Lay the blade of a sharp knife against the hone and slip the meat off in one piece. 6. Roll the boneless loins fir,t 10 the ha,ic harhecue 'auce, then in the pecan. lice each loin into 6 medallion.
To cnc \. Reheat the harbecue-t1avored red wine auce.
2. Place 3 medallton on each of 6 hot serving plate. Dribble the wine auce over the plate. Gami h With ,ute d green bean.
hoe tring neet Potatoe
1 large weet
2 qu
rt peanut
taw, peeled r vegetahle il
1. Heat the oil to 350°. 2. U 109 a mandolme or harp knife, ut the potatoe into very fine julienne matchsuc . 3. Sprinkle th Julienned potatoes IOta the hot oil and tiro allowing them to
cook for 20 to 30
and . 4. U ll\g a mesh dlpper or lotted poon. remove the potaote from the oil and dram on paper towels.
5
Ie WIth it to
teo
LMf1B SHANKS flageolets garlic
lemon wine, red
braise
parsley salt pork
shallots
LAMB'S LIVER butrer cream
LA B'S TONGUE artIChokes basil curry
fennel garlic oltves
tomatoes vinaigretre
(Fall)
LEEKS hacon bechamel Juce heet, bread crumb butter chee e, e peel ll~ Cheddar, 0 t, n Gruy re cream
fl h
holl,mJal~e ~allce
lemon mOll . e I me alice mll ard olive II P rme an chee e par le\ pe po toe thyme
tomatoes vinaigrette wine. red
boil braise
puree . . team stell
(Spring)
LEMON almond card m m ch late
It
currant ,bl ck h ne) hme
Of CnIOC()/,
p ppy eed ra pberne trawbernes
WIth
Fr('sf> Summer Beme~ In Almond Tuiles
, r
C'
tL
Ally
'J1
r
M usse',ne wIth NdtlVC Strawberries and WhIsked Cream
5
(Winter)
LENTILS bacon bay lea\'es cheese, Feta and goat
fDle gras garlic ham lemon mint olive oil P stB.
S
E Ir
f
onlOns parsley peppers pork fat prunes radishes sausages scallions sorrel
spinach thyme tomato sauce tomatoes vinegar, especially sherry or wine
puree simmer
Lent I and Prosc utto Sauce- G 0 q G rl""or & Johanre Killeen
r L Ilt I TOf71 tv (. nd lobster S lad served ,'/ th Cucumber Vma,grette Joe
(Spring)
LETIUCES anchone
avocado chee~e
egg yolk.
garltc lemon ma\Onnal e
ITIu't
~
oil, c,peclally 11: zelnut, olive, p anut, ,n I w lnut ani n p<:pper ~
vmalorene vinegar, especially bal~amIC, Cider and red wme
braISe rau
It
t o t e p" nc pa fouf'dat on of tf10 el (. h E y'l R
t d Gar c md Roquefort
l tt..;c
A
'II
(Summer) LIME bananas coconut
rum
lemon raspberries
(Summer)
LITCHI NUTS
kiwi fruit
cream
coconut
LOBSTER coral coriande r corn couscous cream creme frafche
curry endiyc fennel foie gras garlic
anChO\'le' ant,erre apple-
~lnge r
grapefruit holland 11 e ,met' h r era It h Ie k lemon lem m h I Ii tern ngra !tOle
a'p,lra~u'
aWlC, Jo~ bauJIl basil h rdclal oourholl hrand, hr..: Id crum!butter . caVIar ca)enne chee L, peo herm ..:her\'iI htle ~h i \t:,
ClJer ell otT coc mut Cogna
• 11detr I
PernoJ pOrCl1l.1 port portobellos quinna n ce saffron seaweed shallots ,herrv star ,tnise tarragon thyme t, )nhllle ),
tomatoes truffles, h\.lCk vanilla v tn,lIgrette vlmgar, e.,pecially \\ hue \\ ine "inc, white
ma}Onnal,e
M
11\
ml~
1I
e
mw,hroom mu tard
tl\e
It
hake bOIl brOIl
gnU
nil III orange , te
pan-fry pooch
r r nb
ute
par le~
perrer, bhlCk
f )(lS(
(tam
- I.
the peppers by placing them whole on a b '1 n open gas flame 11 or under the rol er. Cook, rotating on 11 'd or outdoor gn ' . a Sl es, for about ' un nl the skms are black. Put the peppe . . b ten mmure~, rs m a owl and ' , tt C \\Tap. Allow to cool for 15 minutes Using h cover with l' la~ , . your ands, eel ff h -harred skm. Discard the cores, stems, and seeds D ' h POt e L 'd . Ice t e roasted peppers and set a,1 e. 3'[ ['.0. ·
t:'
2. Plunge the lobsters headfirst into a large pot of boiling water and cook for ' 5 (0 6 minutes. Transfer, them to a colander and cool under co Id runnmg \\'ater. Cut the lobsters m half lengthwise and remove th e meat fr am the Keep the lobster claw meat intact in l a ' ta il<., legs, and claws. . , gerpieces and reserve for garnish. Cut the tall meat into 3 to 4 pieces each. Cover the lobster meat with plastic wrap and set aside.
3. Put the qumoa into a fine strainer and rinse under cold running water to remove any residue of its bitter husks. Drain thoroughly.
4. Bring the vegetable broth
to a boil in a medium saucepan. Meanwhile,
heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medIUm-high heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook for 4 to 5 minute~. until tender. Add the chile powder and quinoa and cook for about 2 mmute, until hot, stirring to prevent ~tick mg.
i Remove the pan from the heat and arefully ur th bodmg broth over the qumoa. Return ro heat and bnn to a Immer, tming. ~ ea. on to taste with salt and a generous do e of hlac . pt:pp r. Coo - or ab ut minutes, stirnng frequently, unul mo t \ f the Ilqul I ab rbed but the qumoa is still moist.
6. AJd the corn, ro.l red perr er , n 10 ter to the uinoa and cook for about 3 mmute , until heated through. dd th ba~tl and cook the ri otto gently for bout 2 minute, 1 n,.!er, until the Tl otto is )ltghtly moi t and cream).
~ur 0
ten.
i. Place a generou ervmg
no m the center 0 each pldte. Take care ld to dIVI'd e t h e I td evenl) aml n t h p .He an ror eal,;' h ,et\'lng with a piece of claw meat. (,arnl)h e ch with J. pri' of hasll and ~et\'e. 0
fI
-- - -
--
143
MAHIMAHI avocados chiles cilantro coconut cumin fruits, especially tropical garlic
tomatoes
gmger grapefruit lime olive oil papaya parsley pineapples soy sauce
bake broil grill
saute seaT steam
Baked EClJadortan Mahlmah, Stuffed With Shredded Crab and Rock Shrtmp Sa/picon and Served With Roasted Tomatoes Capers. Olives and Herbs -R ck Bayle.s
Mahimahl With Pmeapple-CoconJt Sauce- Sl! ...<.r'1a Faa Grtlled Mah'man, With Summer Bean Salad and Tomato Vlflalgrette -Brad ey Ogde r
Sauteed Mahmahl wdh Cucumbers Mangoes and Cllantro---Jeremmn Towe'
MANGOES almond, blackberne clove coconut fhh
(Summer) shellfbh star anise
lime papa)~
p _ IOn fruit pmeapple,
bake freezing poach saute
ra,pbcrric~
\ZInger
rum
Kirsch lemon
_iluternc
~
tt e peppery flavo'" or
ke
y
MARROW artichoke heartS ca~ennt;
YOiJ Upl And an b fo e It
t
But f Y u Spm·"/\,111 wakes up th m beaut IU "",..,.,h"n::ll';nn
lemon
MASCARPONE h,mJ), ltyueur fnll t , e,recially strawberries
mushrooms polenta
sugar
Fresh FrUit Gratin wIth Mascarpone Custard • ...{;eorge Germor & Johanne Killeen
puff Pastry Strawberry Tart with Mascarpone Cheese-J oyce Goldstein ' Creamy Polenta wIth MascarpOne-Michael Romano
MELON
(Summer)
ba,il berries Champagne chiles Cognac Cointreau cucumber Cura~ao
gmger \:rare fnnt Grand Mamie[ hlme\,
Ice cream Ices Kirsch lemon lime Madeira mint mu,cat nut, oran~es
pear perr er
port wine prosciutto raspberries salt sherry strawberries vanilla wme, espeCially sweet
free<.e rau.
Amelon that was perfect yesterday may be too rtpe today. so we wouldn't serve It SImply sliced on a plate--we d make It mto a sherbet ~ A, ce Waters Thai Melon Salad with Cilantro and lim&- Su£:m Fen ger & May Sue Milliken Fresh Melon-Basil Sa/ad with Habanero-Mark M ar Charenta s Me on with Beaumes-de- Vemse Sabayon-L 'ldsey Shere
(Winter)
MONKFISH aloh
artIChoke pamgu
bacon hutter. e pc canb c Ptr;
carrot er 11
1,111, broy. n
CIder COriander erC'm curry cnn.:! garlic gmger leek lemon lemongra~s
~Lmala
mushrooms olIve uti uItves rar.;ky red' perr er, ro~emar\
.;aftmn
next ~,)
'corum'
o
145
MONKFISH
(continued)
tomatoes wine
sage shallots sherry, dry soy sauce thyme Monkfish
Tn
bake braise
griU
roast saute steam
Lemongrass and Coconut Broth
-Susan Femger & Mary Sue Milliken
Roasted Monkfish with Cauliflower Served with Caper-Raisin EmulsIon Flavored with Nutmeg-Jear-Georges VongerlcNen
(Spring)
MORELS asparagus bread crumb butter chervil chicken chives cream cu,tard eggs garlic lemon
OOions Parmesan chee e parsley peas pepper potat
,
shallots sour cream tarragon tomatoes truffles watercress
POUltTV
r emary alt Sautem C
11 ps
bake cream
fry stew
(FaU)
MUSHROOMS almon anchovi hacon barley ba it bordelalse auce bread crumbs butter caraway seed cayenne cheese, e peclally Gruyere and Parmesan chervil chives coriander cream
creme frafche Jill eggplants egg fl h garlic grape gremolata ham lemon Madeira marjoram marrow mascarpone mIDt Mornay sauce mustard
.
nutmeg nuts olive oil • omon
oranges oregano oyster sauce pancetta papnka
parsley pasta peas
pepper. black puvapple plStBChlOl potatoeS ao_l
d
.",.,.
rosemary
spinach stock tarragon thyme tomatoes vinegar, especially wine walnut oil walnuts wine, red or white
bake broil fry grill puree raw Saute steam
A por/obello Mushroom Pretending To Be a Filet Mignon with a Roasted Shallot and Tomato Fondue---Pa'f'ck O'Connell
W" '1 Mushroom Tarts-Ar"1e Roserzwe'g potato and Forest Mushroom Lasagna with Ch,ve Sauce---Joachim Splichal Mushroom Caps wIth Bone Marrow-Jeref"llar Tower
(Fall-Winter)
MUSSELS fennel garlic leeks lemon ltme mayonnaise mushrooms olive oil onions orange pancetta parsley pepper, black Pemod pesta nce
aioli anchovies aniseed bacon basil bay leaves beans, white bread crumbs butter cayenne chervil chives cilantro Cognac cream curry
saffron shallots snails spmach thyme tomatoes vinaigrette \'megar wine, white
brad gnll
pan-fry steam
F"rfTI-R3 sed CanadIan Mussels m Tab3sco-Style Escabec ... e (Extra Virgm o e 0 FrUit Vm.-.ga r Garftc Sweet Spices and AromatIC Vegetables)
y Mu Sf? S WIth Green Garftc Thyme and Toasted Rye Bread-Mark Pe€' ..Jr
F '.i \1
d Mu se s With Garl c ar,d Tomatoes--J
"T''T
Y Sc'lnldt
Pasta w th Pnnce Edward Island Mussels. nd Crouton-A W t r '71
M repolX Saffron
d w th WhIte Wme Garlte and Fresh Herbs-Ja
;lE'r
W~ •
14
MUTTON mushrooms tarragon
CalvaJos capers
thyme
(Summer)
NECTARINES (See also PEACHES) cherries cinnamon figs ginger nuts
almonds berries blackberries blueberries caramel Champagne
orange peaches pepper, black raspberries vanilla
NOODLES, EGG tomato sauce
bread crumhs
OCTOPUS lemon p. rslt." \me' r \\ ine. red
ha,ll
hay leave chen"il garltc:
grill stew
(Summer)
OKRA ha'll
aut
km n
nlon plf d~
tomatoes vmaigrette
pepper, bbck pepper. e pectalh 'reen
saute
,
tew
(Fall)
ONIONS
rrl bacon
butter c.hee;e ucc especially Oleddar r Gn.J)cre clfin m n
I
mu hroom nutmeg paprika Parme n che par ley pepper, bl de ra lfiS It
herry
sorrel thyme tomat
lICe
bJke
fry grill
/:xlii bra1;e
rau'
M
roast Saute steam
use r·w or"c;"S but you always wash tnem really well >lfter ,LJ eL' (X,",,'ft."" . . ~", <'r you 1<.;1 th:;om CO",K for fivE' m,nutes In clcldulated w,lter made f ' ~ lf71e ,Jr limtgar or you douaJ them redl heavily With sour orange JUIce II, ' V'I tnem SIt for two hours or you blanch them for fhlfty seconds In 'nd ~t1!, c' ~ fhere are all these dIfferent vdnat,ons on working With raw omons l WJte t kt'epm(/ the fresh, rL/W crispness to them On the other hand, we do ' of dIshes where we throw whole onions down Into the f/fe and let 8~~:.J~~er 8I blacken on the outside, becausE' there s a sort of steaming that haptt1e:s on the mSlde. which I:; very different from trying to gnU It or cook It on a (IE I P or s-)methmg "ke thelt tJlready slIced R CK Bayless fat 0 .... of Five Oman Soup--Joyce Goldstell" 'L' yOU
Crea'"
~'1.:od-RoaS'ed Oman Wed wilh Spoon of Sdky Macomber Turnip-Lydia Shire
(Winter)
ORANGES Annagnac ~asil
brandy cardamom chipotle peppers chocolate
mangoes olives pecans sherry
cinnamon coconut Comtreau ginger Grand Marnier Kirsch
Orange and Armagnac Sherbet- Lnd
yS
strawberrie~
vanilla r
Grand Marmer Souffle vlth Orange Custard Sauce- J
€'fT: l~'
(Winter)
ORANGES, BLOOD citrus fruit, especia1Jy grapefruits and tan-
Tower
pomegran.lt~
gerine
OXTAILS garlic
grapes gremolata
Madeira mustard
onions pepper, black prunes haJlots
tomatoe
wine, reJ e pecially Burgundy
braise steU'
149
(Fall- Spr n )
OYSTERS fennel
foie gras garlic ginger horserad ish ketchup leeks lemon lime mace marjoram mignonette sauce mint mustard nutmeg onions pancetta paprika Parme:an chee, e parsley pepper, black Pemod porat
ale, beer, or stout allspice anchovies artichokes bacon bay leaves
beurre blanc bread, brown bread crumbs . caViar cayenne Champagne chiles chive cilantro cream cucumbers curry
5alt sauerkraut scallions sea urchin roe shallots sherry shrimp snails spinach Tabasco auce thyme vinegar, especially champagne wine, white Worcestershtre .auce
bake
moil deep-fry
gnU poach Tau.'
roast - IIltt!
tw
eg~
Fncasee of Pemmaqu d Oyster to Salsify, Leeks, Fmgerlmg Potatoes and Pancetta ( th or thoul Osetra Caviar) 1 r !lee Br r an Glazed Oysters • th Lee Fondue and Osetra Caviar -Gary Dar. 0 Fanny Bay and Po nt Reyes Oysters Wi th Malt Vmegar Dressmg and Homemade Cae ta Sauce-8 d y Ogd Kumamoto Oysters
1.'
th Champagne M gnonette and Pumpernickel Toast
Mark Pe
Oysters Poached n Champagne-J Hog Istand Oyster Chowder A ce a er
PAPAYAS avocad C3\ennc chlclc.en
,
Wi th
New Potatoes and Smoked Bacon
(Spring ; Fall) chll CQConUl re m coriander
cumlO gmger
Parma ham passion fruit peaches pineapple porr
strawberries sugar vanilla Taw
spinach. Avocado and Papaya Salad with Orange-C· . umln Dressing
-ChriS Schlesmger
Napoleon of Strawberry and Papaya with Passion F 't saLlces-Jlmmy Schmidt rw and Raspberry
(Winter)
PARSNIPS lemon Madeira nutmeg parsley pepper, black potatoes sorrel
almonds
butter chives cjnnamon curry garlic hazelnuts
tarragon walnuts
boil deep-fry griU
puree
(Fall)
PARTRIDGES juniper berries lemon lentil mushrooms onions oysters parsley peppercorns, green sage sauerkraut
almonds appln
t.c:on cOM&" cCpa
chocolate cream curry
fait,. .tk
hallot tarragon truffles wme
braise poach roast
saute
Wid Pattlidge with a Red Cabbage Conf,t and Fall FrUIt Chutney 801 • ., YOWIg Roe• .., PaJtlidge with Chnstmas Pears of Muscat and Spice
~"'d r,...,
"""fdUe
MIh Cabbage Pearl Omons, Apple-Smoked Bacon, and ....,Joactlim SpichaI and GfHfl peppercoms-Jasper White
-nu•.",
g
•
D
PASSION FRUIT Champagne chocolate PassIOn frUit
IS
(Winter) orange papaya
coconut kiwi fruit
a flavor that wakes you up - 0
'£
5chor'ler
PASTA
basil bean" especially ca nnelltm
butter cheese , especially Parmesan chiles cream garlic herbs lobster mascarpo ne mush rooms olive oil p.m cetta
pepper, black pesto pign oli potatoes ricotta Romano cheese tomatoes truffles. especially white
(Spring)
PEA PODS mu h r
almond hutter chicken
(
lOS
nu
steam tiT-fry
I:
(Summer)
PEACHES almond~
c nut C"..ognac C wntr 1U cream curmn~. red
apncot
b II berne blac bern l-Iuebern bourbon
frambOl~
brdnd~
brown u r Calvad caramel
Ca,
I
Champagne cherne ClOnamon ClOnam n
d \e
b-.l! II
gm er Grand 1amler ha:e1nut honey
Kirsch lemon lime Madeira maple 'yTUp Marsala Melha auce
oranges pecan plums port praline raspberrie rum
herry sour cream strawberries sugar vanilla WlOe, e pectally Burgundy
poach raw
pEAS leeks lemon lettuce mint mushrooms nutmeg onions, especially tiny parsley prosciutto rice risotto
Jln10nJs ,I
rtl.:h<,kes
bacon bLltter
carr<)ts chervil chl\"es crearn
fennel garlic
harn
(Spring) rosemary sage salt pork savory shallots sugar vinegar
boil puree steam
PECANS bourbon hown sugar butterscotch
e
B
caramel
molasses
chocolate com syrup
oranges rum
Pecan ce Cream with Hot Caramel Sauce-Patr cK 0 Conne"
p.ca Tart
W th
Caramel Sauce and Van I a Ice Cream- I MMy SchmIdt
Putt Pastry w 1/1 Chaco ate Sa ce a d Sabayol'}
p
v
ba.:,ll
meat, e peCI lly chIcken,1 mb nd ve 1
Chl1
olive oil 11I0n
conander
nee tomatoe vme r
em
_ rlt tern
0 S clall, pe r u
tamel ctnnam n
r
gr pefrult h ne)
IC Kirsch nUlm
ru
J r
bake
brot!
gnU par-bot! roast
stew
(Fall)
PERSI brand, rO~n
h Tower
(Summer-Fall)
PEPPERS, BELL ancho\'ie~
eM
weet potatoes or yams vanilla yams
freeze puree raw ~
neXIpate
PERSIMMONS (continued) P rs mmon Puddmg wtfh Coffee nd CarcJm , Sa ce Warm Pers mmon Pudding wIth Creme Chant"ly- l d
Y ~h,,,,,..
PHEASANTS apples bacon Hackberrieo; hranJy cabbage thad che tout Lhl )r) chi! Cider cream
creme fraiche
(Fall) ~auerkraut
Juniper t>crne, kmnn
,au",,,c "haHnts ,nur (. re,l[n tuffing
~!aJeir.1 ~1.lr,ala
mu, hrooms olive . onion orange t r 0 pn.an pepper ph 1 IIH itHr
tdn~('nne
thyme tTUffle~ VlnL'g~lr
""lln\lb whlskc\ ,nne
mIte
endl\
r
~rt
hrtll
n
brOil rc~t
s
v
C
GrpPl'lC;
PIGS EARS tt
r
rd
PIGS' FEET bearnai~e
"auce bread crumbs Labb.1[!c caper!> <'ariIc hollandaise 'auce mayonnal'e
mustard onions pepper sauerkraut tartar sauce thyme tomato sauce
vinaigrette Vl?egar, especially wine wine, white
braise broil stew
PIKE
(Fall-Winter) hollandaise sauce sorrel
bacon crayfi5h cream
tomatoes vmegar
(Winter)
PINEAPPLE papayas raspberries rum strawberries 'iugar vanilla
liqueur, especiallv Cognac, Cointreau, Grand Mamler, and Kir!>ch lime mang mel n mmt orang
apncots avocados b3con banana brandy coconut cucumber !!rapefrUl 15 ha:e1nu
A W flter compote made With s/Jces of pIneapple kiWI frUIt mango and papaya W th a I ttle passion fruit flesh and 8 few of Its dark seeds for contrast needs only a qrat ng of I me peel and a sprmklmg of rum or Kirsch. jOSI~"
S
Wa m P eapp e Tart TaM
th Coconut Ice Cream-Pat' c 0 Con ell
Car bbe n Coconut Wafer f, ed W th Fresh Pmeapple and Pma Colada Sa ce- ~ ,n-,," P yard 3PP £. Sh -rbet Bombe With Ktrsch Mousse- ~dsey S'lere
P
L
PLANTAINS he n (t,biak
b
tter Inn m n
nu,
and \\alnu pmeapple rum Uf
Cldlh almond
cr
m
deep-fT)' sauce szmmer (e munued on niXI patt)
PLANTAINS
(contin ued)
Plantanos con erema. Sweet Frted Plantains with Homemade Sour Cream and Fresh Cheese-Rick Bayless Black Bean DIp with Frted Sweet Plantams-Ct' ris Sch'esinger
PLUMS almonds apricots bananas brandy brown sugar caramel cherries cinnamon custard fruits, especially citrus
(Summer) Sauternes vanilla walnuts wine, red
ginger grapefruits honey lemon Muscat nectarines nuts oranges peaches rhubarb
poach raw stew
Gingersnap Ice Cream SandWiches With Plum Ice Cream-lindsey S"ere Plum Sherbet Bombe wdh Grand Marmer Moussf7 Ltndsey Shere Walnut Tart of Warmed Plums With Mascarpone Souff/f7 lydia Shire
POLENTA burrer
cheese, esp<.:ciaUy Cheddar, goat, Gorg n' la. Monterey
J ck, and Pannesan Bo
pepper tomato sauce
e carole oarltc
mu hroom.,
of Cre my Polenta With W, d Mushroom and Goat R'
--Brad
Ogo
Rorr
Matzo Po nta wdh Sauteed Mu<;hrooms-
POMEGRANATES bananas blood orange F, r
Of
rt
(Fall) grapefruit
chocolate cream che
yogurt
fr, m I
d th IU C
It
pom /(
POMPANO ba,il head crumbs coconut
(Winter)
lemon lime mustard
shrimp bake (in paper) Saute
PORCINIS butter garlic Marsala Muscatel wine
(Summer) olive oil parsley sage sherry
thyme truffles, white grill
The combmatlOn of porcml and garlic is a perfect combination-when it s done perfectly. That's when the garftc IS not overpowering the mushroom, af1d the mushroom IS well caramelized and meaty at the same time, and the garlic IS bringmg up all the flavor so that it's not Just plain and bland -Darle: Boulud
(Fall)
PORK apples apricots bay leave beans, black beer brandy cabbage Calvados cherries, dried sour clams Cognac conander cream cumin
fennel fruit garlic
gmger hoisin sauce honey juniper berrie lemon lime Marsala molasses mu ' tarJ Onlon orange parsley pepper, black pineapple plum sauce, Chine,e plums
qUInces rosemary sage sauerkraut soy sauce qar anise tarragon thyme . vmegar walnuts whiskey wine, white
brme grill TOast
prune~
POr/( and apples IS a claSSIC combmatlon that has been served together for hundreds of years. Apples cut the fattmess of pork -L.ndsey Shere
Tacos a Pastor' Red-Chlle-Mannated Pork, Wood-Grilled. Thm-Sllced and served With Charcoaled Pineapple, Guacamole, and Black Beans R Bay
c
o
15
PORK (continued) Grillea Pork Tenderlom with Mustard. Sage, and Rosemary Joy
n
E' (;011
Pork Tenderlom with Black-Eyed Peas, Braised Onions. and Tomaill/{) S II Jererrlah Tower
(Fall)
PORK CHOPS apples bay leaves beer bread crumbs cabbage cream curry fennel garlic ginger juniper bernes
leeks mint mustard onions oranges parsley pepper, black rosemary sauerkraut sour cream soy sauce
thyme tomato sauce
bake braise broil grill
pan-fry saute
Gnlled Double-Cut Pork Chop With Braised Cabbage, BOiled Potatoes, 3nd Stone-Ground Mustard A,ol~ -Sr :J ay OQdtl.., Pork Lo n Chop Gn ed w 1/1 Gateau of Apple and Cardmeltzed Red On.o!'} with Rosemary Cider Sauce- J rr'1l S Il tit Doub/e- ThIck Pork R b Chop \ Ith 5 ge and Applf. S Witi') ROJsted 5.\1[,(_' Potatoes--" p W t
(Fall-Winter)
POTATOES
anchuvle bacon basil butter cavaar cayenne celery root cepes
•
c.hard
hor er,hlhh
chee~e
Juniper berric
(especi Ily Cheddar, ~) t, Gru~ere, and Parme an) chen II chlcorv chive cream
creme fra/me dill duxelle fennel fenugreek garlic ham
kale leeks lemon thyme lovage mint mu hrooms mustard nutmeg olive oil olive omons papnka
panIey
(Fall) PUMPKIN apples bacon bourbon brown sugar butter caramel cinnamon cloves coconut Cognac cream duck, including confit garlic ginger
Gruyere cheese honey leeks mace maple syrup mint molasses mushrooms nutmeg nuts olive oil . onlOns pecans pepper, black
pumpkin seeds rum sage sherry sour cream sugar thyme vanilla vinegar, especially white wine walnuts yogurt
bake
pumpkin and potato-FINed Free-Form Lasagna With BJacK-Of,v(> Butter
-George GerMor & Jor-anne K sen Pumpkm fce Cream w.th Caramel Pecan Sauce--v "1rry Sc'nl:1I
(Fall) QUAIL
leek..-
anchOVies appJe _ bacon
lemon
lime m, pie yrup mala< e mushroom
ba~11
bay lea\'e,
beets
mu~tard
chiles, red cider Co~nac
cranberrie currants, peel 11y bl ck curry fig foie gras £arlic gm glnger
!!rape-
honey
omon orange pancetta par ley pear
pecans pepper per tmmon pignoli pmeappl port wme POt, toe
Jumper berrie
o G
i
"",
P
fYI
dBBOO
~ "I t
Ora
prunes qU;lil egg" 4uml li\'cr 4l1m~es
risotto ,age salt calhan
hllllor, thyme truffle, pceJally white waterere wine, white Worce ter hire auee
broil fry gnU roast
CIM.Ii.and Brandied Raspberry Ice Cream Bombe-Undaey Shere
",."iIIfJ
,.rpbI'"Y Gratin-Jeremlah Tower
a:=~goes
with a lot of dIfferent kmds of frUIt I lIke It WIth pear, and
IcB cream with chocolate
;,;
_~ER
-bIIil
blY ieaftI re tpdcbirIJulUr
CJV"
cderY ciJr"O
~ CIIIlf, -.pee 'ally ted
,.'e ......
dill
d
...• 1
•
1M 'f
IS ntce.-Llndsey Shere
lemon lime mustard olives. black onions oranges parsley pepper. black peppers. especially
tarragon
thyme tomatoes vinegar, especially sherry vinaigrette wine, especially white
sauce Pa".esan cheese
baJce braise broil grill pooch
ro&emary
roast
saftiOh
SDJItl
gJeen
potatoes romeKO
pc· Irr
shallots
SWIm
lealboOl .-. me
aUld RIId Snepper willi Garlic and Gmgef-Susan a Foo Red Snapp« and yeIIowfjn Tuna with Tart Herbal Aken
(Spriag)
RICE WHITE custard garlic ginger lemon mushrooms nutmeg nuts, especially almonds, walnuts, pecans, and pistachios
almonds basil brown sugar cardamom chernes, dried cinnamon coconut cream curry
oranges parsley pignoli pineapples raisins saffron tomatoes vanilla yogurt
Warm Rice pudding With Coconut Cream Sauce-Susaf1'1a Foo Cumed Rice Salad-Joyce Goldstein Caramel Rice
Fla~Narcy S.'verton
RICE, WILD almonds butter
mushrooms oranges
pepper pign oli
raham cr cker lemon nmme n nu
,;lIt
ha:elnut~
RlcenA CHEESE almonds
chocolate cmnamon
cl
tVt:""
crt:.lm che e
pepper
garlic
pignolt
Rlsene artichokes asparagu c rab mushroom
Parmesan cheese peas affron hallo
A
spinach sugar van illa
shellfish truffles veal wine
h nk a great flSOttO IS a dish to be savored It should be about eight bites of I tbU/O flavor. where you almost hate to take that last bite-and any more US ~~an that would be gross.-Lydla Shire Risotto of LobSter. Mussels. and Clams with Sweet Pimientos. Scallions. and saffron-Daniel Boulud
Risotto of Black Truffle and Fall Vegetables. with Parmigiano-Reggiano -Gary DankO
Risotto With Butternut Squash. Greens and Prosciutto-Joyce Goldstein Fricassee of Mushrooms and a Parsley Risotto-Gray Kunz Risotto With Mussels and Fresh Herbs-Mark Peel & Nancy Silverton Risotto with Fresh Bay Leaves. Peas. and Pea Shoots-Alice Waters
ROMAINE anchovies cheese. especially Parmesan and blue (Gorgonzola and
chives garlic
olive oil pepper, black
lemon
Roquefort) Ensalada Frontera: Hearts of Romaine With Wood-Grilled Onions. Radishes. Fresh Cheese. and Roasted Garlic Dressing-Rick Bayless Moroccan Orange, Romaine. Walnut. and Watercress Salad--Joyce Goldstem Hearts of Romaine with
a
Creamy Garlic Dressmg and Oven-Roasted
TomatoeS-Patnck O'Connell Young Romame with Green Goddess Dressing and Garlic Croutons
-NICe Waters
(Winter)
RUTABEGAS Natter
....
a
9
penley pepper. black sage
I""
IQUrcream
... ·el
thyme
boice boil
~fry
pwU TOtISt
•
(Spring- Summer)
SALMON crab cream
creme Jrafche cucumber cumin curry dill fennel five-spice powder garlic ginger hollandaise sauce horseradish juniper berries leeks lemon lime
a'ioli anchovies aquavit artichokes avocados bacon basil beans, fermented black beamaise sauce
beurre blanc
~1adeira
bordelaise sauce bread crumbs capers caVIar Champagne chervil chives citrus clams Cognac conamler com
maple syrup . mayonnaIse mint moU'"dine sauce mushrooms mustard
ollv • bll k par,ley pepper. black pepper pomegran te rat 10
salmon caviar sesame shallots shnmp snow peas sorrel spinach tarragon tomato truffles vermouth vinaigrette vinegar, espeCially white wme walnuts watercress wme Worcestershire sauce zucchini
bake in parchment braise broil grill pan-fry pan-roast poach saute sear steam
Sa'mon IS such a fatty flavorful fish It can handle a bIg flavor. I do It In a horseradish crust And ae d goes we" w th It to cut the flchness of the fish like some k nd of c trus - ~err. -0 Sen
I love to cook a whole salmon on tne gr 1/ and then cover It completely from head to foo w th about one Inch of dill and then finish II eJther on the gr or m the oven thiS way w th some lemon sltces and cracked pepper and 0 /Ve a I It s I ke cook'ng It In a forest of dill The inside IS Veil' well (,avored dnd mOIst -Dan e Sou ud Salmon en Mo e Verde Farm-Ra sed AtlantiC Salmon With Class c Green Pumpkin-Seed Mole Roasted Potatoes and MeXican Vegetables -A CI\ Save
Tournedos of Salmon With Horseradish Crust. Cucumbers and Salmon Caviar T"'rr 'n Sr rman
168
A
, ... AIIIM'IOC Sa mon Baked In a Tender Corn Pancake Topped with Golden watelCt8SS Sauce-Hubert Keller
IIIII~&I~IG Atlantic Salmon with Horseradish-Black Pepper Sauce, Oyster
III1d Sesame Asparagus-Mark Miller
WII)'S Home-Smoked, Pastrami-Cured, Cilantro-Gravlax,
..... 1JItd PoIChed-Patrick O'Connell
".,.,.,. 2 Md &lImOn with Braised Lentil Salad and Red Wine Vinaigrette
.....,.Ogden
:,t
_Seared Salmon Fillet with Grain Mustard,
Braised Asparagus, and
Md CI sa"'" Potatoe9-Charhe Palmer
p& n "., IIIM-Cuted Salmon, Cucumbers, Lemon, and Cream
....,._ AaIDllz.alg
tMIIOI' Pi I. with Smoked Salmon and Caviar-Jimmy Schmidt au. J2d S toon and Watercress Omelet-Jimmy Schmidt SsP non wIIh Roasted Beets, Leeks, and Horseradish-Jeremiah Tower
dill eggs
gmger. pickled .. apefruit
horseradish leeks
melon plums
pepper. black potatoes
radishes
Ierocm
lemon
(WInter)
rom..,ee
'se S uSc1ge Salad Served m Red Oman Cups 'l.. M. 'Y c..je Mill k ~n p '.l- ~d Saul', qt's and Grapes -George Ge"mon & Johanne Killeen H'I71.;;rr. de Sausages wIth Gram Mustard, FIve-Onion Slaw, and Stewed
W/l :~' Bean&- M ,rK Miller Ou HO('1CJ71.1de Boudi" Blanc (WhIte Sausage) with Sauerkraut BraIsed in v,rq:n a Rieslrng on Apple Coulls-Palr'ck O'Connell
curn
Lamb Sausage wIth Compote and Pecan Pancakes-Jimmy Schmidt ed Duck Sausage wIth Prunes-Nor mar Var Aken L,,'bste r Sausage with Savoy Cabbage-Jasper White
(Spring-Fall)
SCALLOPS almonds anise asparagus avocados bacon basil bay leaves brandy bread crumbs butter, especially brown cabbage cabbage, napa capers carrots caviar cayenne celery cheese, e pecially Gruyere or Parmesan chervil chives cilantro coriander crab cream cucumbers curry
dill
endive fennel foie gras garlic gm gmger hollandaise sauce Jerusalem artichoke leeks lemon lemongrass lemon thyme lime marJoram mint Momay ~auce mushrooms mu~tarJ
olive oil
pumpkin rosemary saffron salsa salt shallots sorrel soy sauce spinach Taba<;co sauce tarragon thyme tomatoes truffles vantlla \'crmouth vinaigrette vineg~r, especially cider wine, white
,
OOions
oranges paprika parsley pepper, black peppers, red and hot Pemod porcinis potatoe
broil deep-fry
grIll marinate
poach sauce steam ( c.)f1!irwd on next page)
1
SHRIMP allspice anchon es artichokes bacon basil bay leaves beans, white beer brandy butter buttermilk carro ts can ar ch ern l chiles chl \'es cocktatl sauce coconut Cognac com cream cucumrer" currv. e'recl~lh reJ
dill eggplant garlic ginger lemon lemongrass lime Madeira mangoes mayo nnaise mint mushroom, mustard oli\'e oil onions, especially red oranges parsley peanuts perrer. ~lack Pernod ptnt.'J rr ie I OmC!!rdn.ltt." n ce
rosemary saffron Sauternes scallions shallots soy sauce Tahasco sauce tarragon thyme tomatoes vinaigrette vodka wine, e,pecially flee or white Worcestershire sauce
boil broil deep-fry
gnll pan-fry poach rempura-fry
Fresh Flonda Pink Shnmp In Red Chile Escabeche With Gnlled Red Omons Peas and Garfcky Wh te R ce- ~ Baye Sauteed Rock Sh Imp W th Toasted Ancho Chiles SlJvered Garlic and LIme seNed With Seared Greens and R ce.- Su an Fe ger & Mary Sue M ke Conander-Crusted Gn f ed Shnmp With Pineapple Salsa and Lime
-Cr's Sc e
g
Shnmp Dusted w th Orange Zest Artichoke and BaSil
-Jean Georg
Vonne>r
Saffron Nood es w th Ma ne Shr mp Country Bacon and Pine Nuts
-Jaspe
e
SKATE 31
It
ma~
1-utrer. mcludmg 1-r( \\n caper c nander garih.;
h :dnut II oj lse
nnalS('
mmt 011\ e 011 parsley pepper th~me
ce
truffl
vinegar. e peclally red
wine wme. e peclally whit
poach r )Q.St ream
SNAILS ,1I1 Ch,)\"C' antS~
raCll11 basil b,,\' leaH'" bread crumbs butter chcrnl crc,lIn
fennel garlic lemon mushrooms nutmeg parsley pepper, black pignoli rosemary
salt shallots thyme wine, white
olive oil
vinegar, balsamic
gmger mustard
roast saute
mmt moreL mushrooms mussels mustard nutmeg ohve oil omons orange, oyster, papnka Parmesan cheese parsley pepper, black peppers port wille salt scallions
shallots shnmp Taha,co sauce thyme tomatoes truffles \'inalgrette Y1negar wine. especially white
bake braise
broil sImmer
SNAP PEAS butter
SNAPPER bread crumhs endive
SOLE almond, anchones bearnaise sauce bechamel sauce butter capers carrOb cayenne Champagne chives COriander leaves cream garlic hullandai,e .,auce leeks lemon loh,rer }.1ar,ala
braIse brtJil
fry grilt poach saute steam
Corrpos/og
o
175
SOLE, DOVER (See also SO basil mustard
)
vermouth wine, especially red
(Spring)
SORRFL butter celery root chard chervil cream
creme Jrafche eggs
grill
fish lentils mustard olive oil pepper, black potatoes salt
spinach sugar tarragon
blanch puree saute
SOUFFLES, SWEET frUit. , erecially apples, arricot~. blueberrie" peacht:" pears, pme pple. 411Il1ce" r pbem ,,111 ...1 tr.m berne
Madeira, Marsala,
r ort vanilla
hazelnut Itqueu • e peclall\ lot ctte, Comtrt:.lu.
chocollt cofke
Cura I ,Gr 10 I M mlcr, Klr c.h,
SPAETZLE butter
pCpptT. blclck
poppy ceds
plum mee ro el11drv sauerkraut
bake
SPARERIBS barbecue au e garlte gm Jer h ocy 1m 0 (x'Pper
!'"oe, nee .. megar
b(lrbe ue bOIl brOIl par-bod
SPINACH anchovies bacon brains butter cardamom carrotS cheese, especially feta, goat, Parmesan, and ncot ta chtles chives cream cumin curry eggs fish garlic
(Fall- Spring) gmger ham hollandaise sauce horseradish leeks lemon lemongrass mint mushrooms mustard nutmeg nuts (especially almonds and walnuts) olive oil olives Onions oranges
pepper, black peppers, especially red raisins sorrel sour cream soy sugar tarragon tomatoes vinegar, especially red wine yogurt
boil puree saute
The thought of spmach IS pleasure. French cooks, Chinese cooks, Italian cooks. Indian cooks would all rate spmach the best of leaf vegetables -..;are Gngson
SQUAB apricots bacon basil beer brandy butter cabbage cherne~
che-muts chives chocolate cider Cognac cranbernes crl'am Cumm currants eggplant
fig
[oie gras garlic grapes huckleherries juniper berries lemon !tme mu hroom., olive 011 olives . omons orange, paprika parsley peaches peas pepper, hlack raspr.ernes rhuharh
.
(Fall)
nce rosemary sage shallots sour cream 50\'
-luffing tarragon thyme \'inegar truft1es wine, especially red braIse
broil grill roast
,
.. w
sherry thyme
truffles, white vanilla
bake puree
(Summer)
SQUASH BLOSSOMS butter cheese, especially goat forcemeats
garlic olive oil
bake deep-fry saute
(Winter)
SQUID anchovies basil bay leaves bread crumbs cilantro garlic ginger lemon lime
mayonnaIse mint olive oil onions parsley rosemary salsa squid ink tomatoes
vinaigrette wine, especially white
bake cook briefly fry braise slowly grit! saute
SqUid Salad with Five-Flavor Vmaigretfe-SJsanna Fcc Marinated Tomatoes and Arugula with Fned Squid-Jasper White
STEAK chives Cognac conander garlic gmger horseradIsh Juniper berries leeks lemon ~1adeira
avocados ba~ll
bearnaise sauce bordeLu e sauce bourbon brandy !:-uner WIth anchovle , chlv ,garltc, parsley, t rragon c.a enne
mushrooms mustard olive oil union, parslev pepper, black peppe ,~p dally green pI::alOla auce potatoe rosemary
scallions shallots sherry sour cream soy Stilton cheese tomatoes truffles vmegar, espeCIally balsamic and red wme wine, red or ""h ite ""hiskey Worcestershire sauce
broil
gnll pan-brOIl pan-fry (~
on next page)
o
179
STEAK (continued) Carne Asada; Charcoal-Grilled. Butterflied Coleman Natura l Rib Eye
Marinated in Red Chile, with Black Beans and Fried Plantains with Sour Cream and Guacamole-Rick Bayless Grilled Hanger Steak with Roasted Bone Marrow, Fondant of Winter Vegetables. and Crisp Shallots-Terrance Brennan Charcoaled Filet Mignon with Roasted Shallot and Pinot Noir, Country Potato, FOie Gras-Stuffed Morels . and Crisp Parsnip-Charl ie Palmer Grilled Adobo-Rubbed SirlOin Steak with Pickled Corn Relish, Tamarind Ketchup. and "Damn Good Fries"-Chris Schlesinger Hot Roquefort-Broiled Rib Steak with Chilled Layered Tomato Salad and Beet Fries-Lydia Shire Grilled Rib Steak with Yellow Finn Potatoes Mushrooms, and Green Peppercorn Butter--Jeremlah Tower
(Spring)
STRAWBERRIES coconut Cognac Cointreau
cream cream chcc,e
creme {miehe
oranges passion fruit peaches pepper, black or pink
pineapple
Cura<;ao
port raspberries
currant, blclck
rhubarb
flu
sambuca
a]mond~
Gran I Mamier
sherry
arrtCOb
grapefrUit guav,l'
sour cream sugar vanilla vinegar, balsamic
~
bananas
ha II
Kirsch kiWI fruIT lemon hme maple yrup mascarpone nut,
brown u!!ar
caramel Cas'l~
Champagne cmnam n clotted crc.lm
VIOlets wme, espeCially red (e.g. Beaujolais and claret)
yogurt zabaione
Stra.vberry Shortcake With Cre"11e Ct-rantilly-Lindsey Shere Strawbemes In BeaUjolaiS Sauce--!l.3ncy S verton Sauteed Rhubarb With Strawbemes and Vamlla Syrup ",lr G o'ge Vonger chter
A
STUFFING apples bacon Bra:il nuts bread crumbs carrots celery chestnuts cornbread crumbs garlic liquor, especially bourbon, Cognac, whiskey
liver mushrooms nutmeg Onions oysters pancetta parsley pecans prunes rice rosemary
sage sausages savory shallots tarragon thyme walnuts
braise grill
saute
STURGEON mayonnaise oysters
(Spring)
SUCKLING PIG garlic myrtle
onions rosemary
TOast
(Winter)
SWEET POTATOES apples apricots bacon bananas brown sugar butter ctlamro cinnamon clove, cocnnut cream garltc gmger honey
lemon lime maple syrup nutmeg oranges paprika pear, pecans pepper, black pineapple rabm, rum salt "herry, dry
s()ur cream suntlower seeJ, thyme vanilla walnuts
bake boil deep-fry puree roast
SaHte
SWEETBREADS app les bacon brand y bread crumbs butter. espeCIally brown capers carrots cherries chen' il citrus ckwe com, pureed cream
creme frafche curry eggs
garlic h a:elnuts h ollanda ise sauce lemon Madeira Marsala morels mushrooms mustard onions. especially red oysters Parmesan cheese parsley peas peppers. red port
savory sh allots sh erry spinach tarragon th yme tomatoes truffles walnut oil watercres, wine, white
braise
broil poach saute
"Jump In the Mouth" Sweetbreads Sauteed with Fresh Fig and Summer Savory-Lydia ShIre Sweetbread Club Sandwich wIth Apple-Smoked Bacon. Fate Gras and a Good Sauce--Joach m Sphcha Sweetbread and Potato Salad In a Shallot and Hazelnut Dressing -Jean Georges Vonge< c tel'
(Summer)
SWISS CHARD
chtle-
!trnon
!! 1flle
t,lrr..l,J
n
tomatoes \'megar
SWORDFISH
b 11 BeauJ I,ll bet.'t JUI t.' hutter L
ch,mterelles chi\' c onul cOriander cream
'82
CUrT) gmger 'r lptJrUlt kmon mu,rard oh\'\: t!
pdr,ley pme Ipple ro cmal) tarragon roma[Oc
\' inalort'tte \'inef.!.lr. hakHniL wine. e'r~·ci 'llly \\ hit ... ~
bake &rod grill wast, ,aute
Co d Sword~sh Salad with Basil-Danlel Boulud Gn eo Sv.ordflsh with Scallion Vmalgrette----SuSiln Feniger
& Mary Sue Milliken
Sauteed Swordfish and Osetra Caviar Cake with Caviar Sauce -Jear LOUIS Pillladr'l
Grilled Swordfish with Tomato and Roast Pepper Compote----Michael Romano Swordfish with Gmger and Grapefruit-Jimmy Schmidt Grilled Swordfish with Rosemary Mayonnaise----Jeremiah Tower Roasted Swordfish with Herbs. Smoked Bacon. and Red Wine Butter -Norrrar Van Aken
Grilled Swordfish with Basil Butter and Tomato Sauce----Jasper White
(Summer)
TOMATOES anchovies arugula basil hread crumbs Champagne cheese, especially Feta, goat, Mozzarella, and Parmesan chiles chives cucumbers eggs garlic lemon lovage
marJoram mint mushrooms olive oil olives omons oregano parsley pasta pepper, black peppers, especially red saffron salt seafood shallots
sugar tarragon thyme vinegar, especially balsamic, sherry and wIne
bake broil ir)'
grill rau.'
sallte stew
Summer Crostini With Native Tomatoes, LIttle Compton Corn. Red Onion, and Basll--George German & Johanne Killeen Vine-Ripened Tomato Salad With Mozzarella and Roasted Sweet Onions -Bradiey Ogde'l
SpICY Cold Tomato and Pepper Soup Barcelona-Style-Allce Waters
Compcs,ng
a
o
183
TI"
ClE thyme tomatoes vinegar, espec ially reJ wme
mushrooms mustard olive oil parsley pepper, black port rosemary tarragon
anchovies capers cherries chervil chives garlic horseradish lemon
bake boil
TRIPE mustard nutmeg . onlOns pancetta paprika Parmesan cheese parsley pepper, black prunes saffron Sauternes th, me tomatoes
allspice bacon brandy bread crumbs Calvados chickpeas cider cloves cumm garlic lemon marjoram mushroom,
truffles vinaigrette vinegar, especially red wme wine Worcestershire sauce
braise fry poach saute stmmer
TROUT garlic horseraJ ish lemon mushroom" parsley pears pepper, hlack PernoJ purt scallions 'iorrel Tabasco sauce tomatoes
almonds anchnvles hacon beans, especially t1a!.!eolets butter, especially brown capers cepes cher\'il chiles chIves cream
vinegar, especially wine walnuts wine, white
bake
brozl
gnU poach roast saute sear steam
(c ""mud or f;u:ml'. page I
184
, y
A
y
ConIII..IIIItI M~ wtIh
Roasted Mam. BrooIc Trout Stuffed with Wmte' Greens, Tomato Country-Cured Bacon, WIth Fmgerlm9 Potatoes and Wild
Ssg6 Daniel Boulud Saut86d Trout Stuffed WIth GarlIC, Chile, and Toasted Tomato Relish-Chns SchleSinger
TROUT, SMOKED bacon
cream
horseradish lemon
pecsns with (3ardfIn
olive oil IIOU1' c:re8ID
House-Smoked Trout WIth Apple-Chive Fritters and HorseradiSh CtMIfJ
-Bradley Ogden GrapefrUIt and Smoked Trout with
Pickled Ontons and pepper CteIItI
-Alice Waters
TRUFFLES (See also BLACK and WHITE) CopI8C
ri·.. Pa" nc:hl-
C,'IID
iP
chickrn
"a-,"I'.,..e u
I
Gary Dan ( THE DIN ING ROOM AT THE RITZ-CARLTON HOT EL San FranCISco, Calrforma
We've had three or four promotions a year where we've developed special menus-around caviar, cheese, or truffles, for example-in order to increase our business. Each would be kicked off with a press luncheon abo ut three weeks before the menu debuted. For example, we'd serve truffle hors d'oeuvres, bring in an expert on truffles from France to provide a slide or video show and talk about truffles, and then bring the journalists into the kitchen where they could watch the preparation of the special menu and ask questions. With a menu like this, you want to have the truffle speak-not anything else! I started backwards, with a truffle dessert and a truffled cheese course. Since these were both heavy on the cream, I aimed for lighter preparations of the other cour e .
Truffle Menu
Trujj1e Suup La Gitana, Manzanilla • • •
Seared Scallops u ith Spnng Veot!tables and Truff1es DOTTUline 0 tertag 1990, Pinot Blanc • • •
Lamb Mt!dallwn5 u'ith Wild Mu hrooms and Truff1ed Lamb Essence , Gratin Potatoes Tinto Pesquera 1989, RIbera del Duero • • •
Truffled Bnllat-Sat1arin Chateau de Trignon 1985, Rasteau • • •
Truffle Ice Cream
(Summer)
TUNA alolt anchovies artichokes avocados bacon bay leaves beans, especially black and white beets capers carrots caViar chives cilantro daikon dill garlic gmger leek
lemon lemongrass lime mayonnaise mint mushrooms olive oil . onlOns parsley pepper, black peppers, especially red bell pineapple potatoes saffron scallions seaweed sesame soy sauce
tamarillos teriyaki sauce thyme tomato sauce tomatoes vinaigrette vinegar, especially wine wasabi wine, especially white
bake braise broil grill
raw TOast
saute sear
Roasted Tuna With Black Pepper, Parsnip Puree and Shallot Confll m Port Wine-Dar lei Bo JIi.. d Seared Rare Ahl Tuna With Avocado and Soy-Lemon Herb Dress ng -G2ry Da'lko
Gnl/ed Marmated Tuna With Roasted Peppers Bok Choy, ShIItake Mushrooms Soy and Gmger-Gary D r 0 Grdled Tuna au POlV'e With Cracked Bl.lck Pepper and Lemon Buttt:lr served With Shoestnng Potatoes and Spmach- Joyc.e Gold IF!:1 Ahl TU'1a With a Crust of Pmk and Black Peppercorns Enhanced with Lime. Orange. and Lemon-I-' Jb€"-r+ \(€" er Lernon-DI/on Tuna Tartare With Rye TOdst and Scall'on O,l. M r~ tI. S'
Filet Mlgl"'o'" of Rare Tuna Capped w,fh Duck FOle Gras on Charred Omans and a Burgundy Butter Sauce- Pat C~ 0 Cor e Gni/ed Tuna Steak With PI'::kled Gmger Soy. Wasab,. Liang Pan. and Jawm.ne RIce Cakc5- Chns Sch E'S ne' Tuna Tartare MIxed With Cucumbers OnIons. Capers and Wasabl V·na·grette- ~I 'T'Y SC~r'1I0 Yellowftn Tuna Braised With AnchOVies Tomatoes Omons Garltc and Bay Leaves- Aile Waters
1 7
(Spring)
VEAL
iDle gYm
.H1cht, dl'
garlic gmger grapefruit ham leeks lemon lime Madeira Marsala wine morels Momay sauce mushrooms mustard olive oil onions papnka Parma ham parsley pepper, black pepper, pistachio,
,lrr b ,lftichl1kes ,lfw.:ula hlCl1n basil bay leaves bread crumbs butter capers carrots ceres cheese, especIally Gnlyere and Parmesan cherYll cider c!O\'es corn. pureed cream dill endive
potatoes rosemary sage salmon shallots sorrel sour cream spinach sweetbreads tapenade tarragon thyme tomatoes truffles, especially white tuna verbena vermouth wine, espeCIally white
braise roast satHe
Everyth ng goes ~ th veal LIke chicken It s a meat w.th a neutral flavor, so you car) take It m a lot of dIfferent dlfectlons A very earthy direction would be combm ng It g'andrrere style With bacon mushrooms potatoes, and pearl omans, Or you car) take It ,n a bItter d rect on W th caramelIzed endive, Or you can make the dlsn sharp by pamng the veal th capers or mustard sauce Veals pretty bland on Its own so you need somethmg to gIve It a Mtle b t of I fe - Te 'ane BrE.' an Sauteed Vea Medal ons WIth Chestnuts Ce ery Root and Apples With Potatoes F,fi-Gary Dan 0 Pan-Roasted Veal Steak ~ th Yu on Go d Potatoes Peppers and GarlIc -Gray I<
z
Sand cll of Veal and Vea Sweetbreads th Oyster Mushrooms Country Ham and 0" on-P urn Con~ ture- Pa 0 Co Vea Meda ons of F: esh Sage-
J
th W, d Mushroom Can a Pa e
on Tomato Conf t and Essence
Sa teed Vea Steaks w th Rum Planta ns and Creole Mustard Cream A
1
VEAL CHOPS (See also VEAL) anchovies bacon basil bay leaves bread crumbs caper, chervil Cognac garlic ginger lemon Madeira morels
Momay sauce mushrooms oltves onion s paprika Parmesan cheese parsley pepper, black peppers potatoes rosemary shallots sorrel
tarragon thyme to mato sauce vinegar, espeCially raspberry and wme watercress wIne
braise broil roast saute
Roasted Veal Chop and Sweetbreads with Rosemary. Winter Root Vegetables. and Sweet Garlic-Oar:; Boulud Seared Veal Chop with Parmlglano-Reggiano Spmach and Soft Polenta -Gary Danko
Veal Chops with Shltake Mushrooms-Mark Peel
VEAL KIDNEYS (See also KIDNEYS) bacon bean, c pc lall\ \\ hit brandy hu trcr Co!:!fl
c rdnhe rne cream Lurry garlic
~111
par~ley
h,tllob
JUniper berm: lemon
wme
morel mushroom mustard nurme o
hake moil grill
011111ll!
£lute
papn k.l
(Winter)
VEAL SHANKS cd rrOb garlic gn:mol,n il honc\
lemon onion
ro c mary
pa r~ l e}
th yme wine, white
pepper, hLlCk
age
VEAL SWEETBREADS (See also SWEETBREADS) d. mushrooms braise brJn \ onions broil Cognac saute' tomatoes cray f j,I1
(Fall) VENISON apples bacon bananas barley bav leaf bearnalse ,auce brandy cherries, especially black chestnuts chiles, espeCially ancho and poblano cider coriander seeds cream currants, red
garlic goat cheese horseradish huckleberries juniper berries Madeira marjoram mushrooms mustard Onions orange, parsnips pears pepper, black pomegran,Hc'
port prickly pears prunes rosemary sweet potatoes tarragon thyme vinegar, espeCIally red wine wine, especially red braIse
~ll
mast sallte
Honey and Cumin Glazed Lom of Vemson WIth Foie Gras EndIVe, KohlrabI, Orange Zest, and Pine Nuts--Dan el BOIJlud Medal/Jons of Venison with Purees of Parsntp Sweet Potato and Mushrooms -Te'rance Brennan
Cervena Venison Pepper Steak With Mushroom Spaetzle Butternut Squash Flan, and Caramelized Parsnlp-Charles Palmer VenIson WIth Mustards and Chlles-JlrT'my Schmidt Roasted Racks of Venison, One of Sweetened Chestnut, the Other of Biller Chocolate-Lydia Sh fe (See also Charite Palmer's venison recipe on pages 192-193)
(Fall)
WALNUTS caramel
Lepe chee~es, especially
Roquefort and tilton
f"h mll hrL>Utn
pork port ralsm
"ddLl" ,herry :ucdul1l
f
---
-
-
Mignons of Cervena Venison Charlie Palmer AUREOLE N ew York , Ne w York
This recipe, 1 think, represents my style of food-complementary, big flavors; a bit complex in its preparation in some ways, but really a concentration of big, strong flavors. It's robust. It's solitude. It's the kind of dish that makes you sit up and take notice. That's what I really try to do with every kind of recipe I create. SERVES
4
For the squash 3 tablespoons butter 2 shallots, peeled and minced "2
medIum butternut squash. peeled, seeded, and cut into liZ-inch dice 3 1/2 (Ur' chIcken stock 1/2 tetl'pfHln nutmeg 1/2 tea'poon mace
Place the hutter m ,1 medium ~aure Pdn and melt over medium hear. Add the shallot and '-lute 2 mmute~. Add the yua~h Hnd toss together. ext, add all the remammg mgredlent'> and cook ~Iowly for ah,)Ut 12 to 15 minute" ,tlfnng occa I nail). Hold warm after almo.,t all the srock is absorbed.
For the pOl"tobellos 2 large porwJ-,e1lo mushroom caps 2 taJ-,le.,poons extra virgm olive oil 1 tahlespoon b.tbamic vinegar
---------
1 clove garlic. sliced thin
1 tablespoon salt and cracked pepper
ms with olive oil and vinegar. Top with garlic slices. season. Brus h mus hro O . an oven preheated to 500 0 for 7 to 8 minutes. Hold warm. an d roast m Fm· the "enison and sauce
2 cups Beaujolais wine 2 finely minced shallots 1 herb sachet including thyme. bay leaf. peppercorns 1 1/2 cups good venison glace or veal glace 8 3-ounce mignons of Cervena venison (cut from the Denver leg). 1-1 1/4 inch thick salt and pepper 2 tablespoons canola oil for searing 1/4 cup sun-dried currants (reconstituted in warm water) 4 tablespoons cassis for degla:ing
1. Begin by reducing the wine. shallots. and sachet to 1/2 cup of liquid. Add the glace and reduce by 1/2 (about 20 minutes at a mediumimmer). Skim the sauce and strain into a bowl. Reserve. 2. Season the Cervena venison with ·alt and pepper. In a very hot saute pan, heat the canola oil. Place the mignons in the pan and sear for about 2 to 3 minutes or till almost crusty. Tum the mignom and sear the other Ide for an additional 1 1/2 to 2 minutes. Remove from the pan to a planer and drain any grease. Add the cassis to the pan along with the drained currants. Finally, add the base sauce and bring to a boil. Adjust the seasoning and hold warm. 3. Reheat the -quash and poon into the center of 4 warm dinner plates. Set 2 mignons atop each bed. Slice the warm porrobellos and lay a few pieces over each mignon. Bring the sauce back to a boil and spoon generously over the meat. Serve very hot. .
__ _-_ _------- --- -----_ ...
..
c
p
s
.. _--_ ..
_-- ...
a
D
..
1 3
(Spring) WATERCRESS oranges oregano parsley thyme vinaigrette
beets chicory eggs endive mustard
YAMS (See also SWEET POTATOES) persimmons apricots butter
walnuts
puree raw
(Winter) maple
YOGURT honey mint nuts, especially hazelnuts oats OnIons peache,
apples bananas blueberries carrots coconut cucumber granola
194
A
radishes raspberries strawberries watercress
ZUCCHINI
anchovies basil bread crumbs butter cayenne cheese, especially Feta, Gruyere, Parmesan,
and Ricotta cilantro cinnamon cloves cream dill eggplant garlic hazelnuts lemon marjoram mint mushrooms olive oil omans oregano
.
(Spring- Summer) parsley pesto pignoli rosemary sage salmon tarragon thyme tomatoes vinegar walnuts
bake fry saute
Tinga de Verduras: An Earthenware Casserole of Grilled Zucchini and Woodland Mushrooms with Smoky Roasted Tomato Sauce, Fresh Cheese, Avocado, and White Rice-Rick Bayless Sauteed Zucchini with Sun-Dried Tomatoes-Susanna Faa Baked Eggplant, Zucchini and Parmigiano Tort'no-{v1lchael Romano Parmesan-Fned Zucchini with White Bean Hummus-Lyd a St -e
1
---S-E-A--::S:-::O:--:N~I::N:-:G~M;-A;:T;'Cr.:;H-';E~S:MMA D E -, N- H E A VE N ACHIOTE chicken fish
meat, white pork
rice
ALLSPICE beef beets cabbage carrots corned beef fruit pies game
grains lamb meats onions pumpkin rabbit soups
spinach squash stews sweet potatoes tomatoes turnips
pizza potatoe~
puttanesca tapenade
caulitlower ... _ert fl h
melon sauerkraut seafood
ANCHOVY Caesar salad pissaladlere
ANISEED heet breads cabbage carrOb
BASIL cheese, e pecially Mozzarella and Parme an chicken duck eggplant
omon~
pa ta ~auces peto pimiento pizza pork potatoes rabbit salad green , especially dandelion and rocket
egg
fish lamb liver olive oil
hellfish, especially crah and shrImp soups sweet peppers tomatoes turtle soup veal vegetable , especially Mt..Jiterranean vinegars zucchini
If I had to choose Just one plant for the whole herb garden I shou d be c tent WIth basIl Bast! enhances almost anythmg WIth wh ch t s coo ed -E zabel Da d 196
y
A
I
•
BAY LEAF reans game grains lentils
pates potatoes risotto shellfish
soups stews terrines tomatoes
BEANS, FERMENTED BLACK fish
poultry
shellfish
omons
tomatoes
pork potatoes sauerkraut sausage,
soups turnips
lentils meat
rIce qUd,h ,wcerme..J{'
CAPERS fish
CARAWAY bread, especially rye cabbage cheese, especially Muenster
CARDAMOM chicken coffee currIe, duck
pea,
CASSIA apple, chocolate
cou_cou,
lentil,
peas rewed fruit
fi,h
po[,)wes
lob,ter onions pepper
rlU.'
CAYENNE ch ee e JlIce~ Corn crah 'grlJnt
~arJmc
tomatoe
CEl ERY SEEDS eggplant eggs fish
peas potatoes
stuffing, tomatoes
fish peas potatoes salads sauces
soups spinach tomatoes veal venIson
CHERVIL asparagus carrots cheese chicken eggs
CHILES bananas heans chutney~
corn fruit, especially CItrus ketchup
pineapple nce
... alad~ hdlfl h
sole 'ours
CHIVES fl,h p(.ratoe)
CHOCOLATE, BITTER roultr~
rar!
game
It
CILANTRO (CORIANDER LEAVES) avocado chicken fhh Ice cream lamb lentils
m,,~unnal'C
pcpper pork nee root vegetable salads
aha., ,hellfi,h tl101at(}Cs Y°l!urt
I ve used fresh leaf conander. which IS vaguelyamsey. m fce cream w th a fig tart It s a very mce combmatlon d 6'f S
1
(;r
CINNAMON apples
at'goiemo no berries chicken chocolate
coffee custards fruit compotes lamb mulled wine
oranges pears rice tea zucchini
fruit
veal
CINNAMON BASIL creme angl aise
I use cmnamon basil to flavor poaching liqUids for frUlf.-Llndsey Shere
CLOVES apples beets game ham
lamb
mmcemeat pumpkin sausage
tea
tomatoes walnuts, candied wine, especially mulled
COCONUT chicken custard
fruit orange~
CORIANDER curry fish ham
lamb lentils pork
~tuffing
lamb lentib peas pickles pork
potatoes nee -ausages soups tew
tomatoeturke~
CUMIN beans chicken couscous CUlT)
eggplant fl h
-
mud
next
CUMIN
(continued)
Anyone who loves the food of MeXICO loves cumm which IS usually combmed with chiles and peppers in that country In Colombia and other parts 1')/ South America, you'll see cumin combined with cilantro and scallion If) Morocco. you 'll see it with cinnamon. red peppers. and saffron. And In India you 'lI see it combined with cardamom and coriander. So one spice can take you to many countries, depending on what you do with It It becomes a question of where you want to be what country you want to be m. when you cook with that spice.-Lydia Shire
DILL cream sauces eggs fish lamb pickles potatoes salmon
beets breads cabbage carrots chicken crayfish cucumbers
scallops seafood sour cream tomatoes veal
011115 not an herb I m crazy about. so I don't like chopped dill In a dish. But /'1/ cook something like salmon on a bed of It. and the fragrance It Imparts IS enough.-Dan e BOJlud
FENNEL boUillabaz se cabbage chicken cucumher duck eggs figs
fish goose
herring lenub pork mackerel olives pork poultry red mullet alami
sauerkraut sausage sea hass seafood soup suckling pig
legumes potatoe
rabbit
tomaroe~
veal
FENUGREEK chicken curries
A
GARUC
beets cabbage
chicken eggplant
fish lamb
rice
ehelIftIh .pnach
to'DatcM'"
zucc:hini
lentils
mushrooms pasta
beans
beef
pork potatoes
GINGER caaOll
chicken
cbaco'are
fruit giIiFlbread
ham ice cream
melon
pumpkin rice tometoe'
onions
pork
Each mgredient does a different dance. Each dish das, a .~ dE __ u"iNne anglalS6 with ginger does a soft. dreamY waltz. When , .hlnk d • spicy pork stir-fry with ginger. I get an IrIJIIgB 01 a big dtInt» IIoof will ,.,.. d '~Bnts doing a real ensrgstiC danCe with the gtttIiC IIIfd chII. - Bach oIher. and suddBnIy breaking out intO their own J..~""IkS"
m...
HorIIat van Aken
ahuji H.
LAVENDER fruit ice creams
lamb rabbit
stew
fish oysters
shellfish veal
pork shellfish
soups
LEMON chicken desserts
LEMONGRASS chicken
fish
LEMON THYME carrots eggs lamb
,
potato puree rabbit ;,alad
stews stuffings
lamb
mushrooms
haricot bean pork potatoe rabbit
oups tew veal
ham omons
pumplcms ribs
LEMON VERBENA dessert up ice cream
LOVAGE chicken cream cheese f1 h soup green
MAPLE SYRUP carrots desserts
fruit
NU MEG broccoli cabbage carrots cauliflower cheese custards eggs fruits
lamb mutton pasta potatoes pumpkin raIsIns ricotta cheese nce
OREGANO artichokes beans chicken eggplant fi"h and fhh 'Oup' lamh
mushrooms pasta peppers pl::a pork potatoe·
sausages, c'ipcClally blood and pork souffles spinach stuffings veal
quail rabbit sausage tomatoes veal zucchini
PAPRIKA cauhtl \\;cr chICken cr. b fish tC\\
~ ula
shellfish strogdnoff veal
h
1mb
n e
PARSLEY chi ken eggplam egg fih game lenni
mu hr mu el p ta pe
pot a toe poultry
In
nee ~cofooJ
snalb romatoe :ucchinl
PEANUTS beef chicken
noodle
shrimp
rc
PER, BLACK
cheese eggs fish game lamb pfefferniiesse
pork poultry roast beef salad sausages soup
PISTACHIOS asparagus chicken ice cream
leeks pasta
rice sausages
pates
POMEGRANATE SYRUP beef duck
steaks strawberries tomatoes veal
game lamb
walnuts
fruit noodles
nce
lamb mushrooms ontons oranges peas pork potatoes
poultry salmon spinach steaks veal suckling pig
POppy SEEDS breads curries
ROSEMARY beans, especially dried and fava chicken fish, oily (e.g., mackerel, sardines) game grains
I remember makmg a rosemary and muscat wme sherbet almost twenty years ago -lindsey Shere
ROSEWATER cream cheese cu tard
fruit salad ICe
ice creams strawberries
SAFFRON shellfish soup tomatoes
bouillabaIsse chicken curries fish lamb
mussels paella nce risotto sauces
SAGE duck eggplant fish game goose liver
offal peas pork poultry ravioli
roasts stuffings tomatoes tuna veal
lamb legumelentil meat , gnlleJ
peas poultry, grilled rabbit soups
fi h halvah lamb noodle
shellfish tahini
meats poultry shellfl h
soups stuffings
fruit
potatoe
SAVORY beans chicken liver egg goat chee
SESAME SEEDS bread chicken chickpe eggplant
SORREL egg
fih lentil
SOUR CREAM borscht caviar
A
STAR ANISE chestnutS duck eggs fish
SUMAC chicken fish
TAMARIND chicken curries fish
TARRAGON artichokes beamaise sauce carrots chicken crustaceans, especially lobster eggs
leeks pastry pears pork
kebabs
lamb lentils peaches
fish, especially salmon lobster meats, white mushrooms onions potatoes rabbit
THYME beef carrots chicken figs fish
goat cheese lamb lentlls onions peas
poultry pumpkin scallops shrimp
lentils
pears poultry nce
salads ole spinach stuffings tomatoes veal
pork potatoes soups tomatoes venison
TURMERIC beans chicken curry
lamb lentils meats, white
paella nce shellfish
D
20
V NILLA
apples apricots chocolate custards
fish fruit ice cream
plums shellfish souffles
VINEGAR, BALSAMIC steaks
strawberries
tomatoes
You can get tIred of balsamIc vmegar-It's one of those overused mgredlents. Many trendy restaurants use a lot more balsamIc vmegar than any Itahan restaurant ever would.-Mark Pee'
WASABI sashimi
sushi
--- --- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -- - - -AROUND THE WORLD WITH FLAVORS
-
If you'd like to cook with flavors and ingredients inspired by a certain part of the world, refer to this list:
AFRICAN chiles cumin
garlic grains of paradise
peanuts
chorizo com
cumtn nce
ARGENTINIAN beef chiles
ARMENIAN parsley
yogurt
AUSTRALIAN fish meats
shellfi h
tropical fruits and vegetables
paprika
poppy seeds
garlic limes
rice scallions
AUSTRIAN cream cheese omons
BRAZILIAN beans, black chtles cilantro
pineapple~
CAJUN chll
eray£: h
hot ~auce eafood
romatoe
209
CANADIAN maple
CANTONESE pork scallions
ginger mushrooms nuts
shark skin soy sauce
CARIBBEAN glI1ger gua\'3S Jerk lime.; mace
allspice avocad()~
hananas beam, e~peCially red chile· cilantro clI1namon clove coconut curry garlic
mangot.:~
mlI1t nutmeg okr.l papa)Ol pa ton fruit
pineapples plantains pork rum seafood sligar sweet potatoes tomatoes vanilla
CHILEAN onion orange plmlent<
cllantw crn
garit meat
tomatoe~
nee
CHINESE
.
gmger
bll bean prout bok choV cardamom c la conander garlic
o
seafood
hOI
\I1
mushroom nce scallion se ame hmake
A
hnmp now pea soy auce star ani e
tofu vlOegar, nee wane wine, rice
Susanna Foo on Cross-Cultural Ingredient Substitutions/Enhancements In Americanizing her Chinese cuisine, Susanna Faa learned to make substitutions of readily available ingredients that were in many cases of better quality and flavor than the authentic ingredients available. Ingredient bamboo shoots dried leaf cabbage hoisin sauce oyster sauce peanut or sesame oil rice vinegar
Substitution/Enhancement artichoke hearts sun-dried tomatoes hoisin sauce enhanced with brandy oyster sauce enhanced with onions soybean or corn oil; olive oil (in salads) balsamic vinegar (in salads and stews) cider vinegar (in sauces)
nee wme
brandy (with rork) gin (wIth fish) Madeira (with red meat and game) vermouth (wIth fbh, shellfish, ;md whIte meat) vodka (with fi~h, "hellfi"h, ,md white meat) whIskey (with rork)
S:eehuan peprers
t-lexlGm ancho chIles
soy sauce
Kikkoman 0\ sauce
COLOMBIAN coconut com
ontons rlmiento~
CORSICAN BrocclO cheL'Se emu frUI
tomatoes
o\t\'cs
p
o
CREOLE okra pineapples rum
alcohol bananas chiles
DANISH cream dill
butter chives
seafood spices tomato
potatoes tarragon
DUTCH seafood
fish
EAST INDIAN curry mint
aromatics coconut coriander
saffron turmeric
ENGLISH bacon chec e cucumber
"arne mu tan'!
dill
03
potatoes Worcestershire sauce
EUROPEAN caraway cmnamon clove coriander fennel
gmger JunIper heme mu tard nutmeg poppy eed
FINNISH milk
212
mushroom
A
saffron -esame \'antlla
FRENCH cream
apples butter cheese chervil chives
eggs garlic herbs olive oil
parsley stock tarragon truffles wine
White wme, cream, and the delicate herb known as tarragon are three of the foundations for classic French cuisine.--Craig Claiborne
GERMAN caraway seeds
mustard
sorrel
poppy seeds
thyme vinegar
clove garlic goat cheese honey
marjoram mint
parsley nee
olive oil olives orepno
spinach thyme
lemon
OUZO
yoeurt
dill juniper berries
pepper
GREEK cinnamon
tomatoes
HUNGARIAN bacon beets caraway seed.
mushrooms onions
dill
paprika penley
IIIiIe
f Mel
.e'
M
...
,EM'" pi 1 ,
s-
_,
I >
1,
INDONESIAN cumin curry garlic ginger lemongrass lime
basil brown sugar chiles cilantro cinnamon coconut
mint peanuts nee soy sauce sugar
IRANIAN almonds aromatics
rice saffron
yogurt
oysters potatoes
rye
olive oil oregano pancetta pasta r emary
spinach tomatoes vinegar, especially red wtne
jerk
pepper
scallions
ugar vinegar, rice wasabi wine, rice
IRISH cabbage oats
ITALIAN basil
cheese, e pecially rna • carpone, Mozzarella and Panne an garlic
JAMAICAN all pice gtnger
JAPANESE garlic gInger nce salce
14
sesame
shiitakes soy sauce
A
peanuts
oregano marjoram
KOREAN brown sugar chiles
soy sauce
sesame
LATIN AMERICAN achiote beans, red chiles
potatoes nee
corn garlic
plantains
LEBANESE bulgur
sesame oil
MAL YSIAN cardamom coconut
chiles
lemongrass
garlic olive oil
parsley tomatoes
com cumm
pork nce scallions tomatoes vanilla
MEDITERRANEAN anchovies coriander
MEXICAN avocados beans chiles chocolate cilantro cmnamon
epazote garlic lime peppers
21 p
n g
MIDDLE EASTERN anise chiles cilantro cinnamon coriander cumin dill eggplant fennel
fenugreek garlic h oney lemon mint olive oil oregano parsley pignoli
pomegranates poppy seeds saffron sesame sumac tahini tamarind tomato yogurt
MOROCCAN almonds chickpeas cilantro cinnamon coriander couscous
cumm eggplant fruit ginger harissa lemon, dried
mint olives onions saffron tomato
NORTH AFRICAN conander
garlic
mint
cumm
gram of paradise
rill
fenugret:k
lemon
saffron
hernng
sour cream
el hanout
NORWEGIAN cod dill
almon
PAKISTANI fruit legume
PERUVIAN chiles com
nce
spices
lime
tomatoes
omons
PHILIPPINE garlic rice
POLISH dill fish kielbasa
soy sauce
vmegar
mushrooms potatoes
sauerkraut sour cream
PORTUGUESE cabbage chiles chorizo cilantro
potatoes nee
cod eggs garlic olive oil
PUERTO RICAN achiote ginger
lime
plantains
root vegetables
tomatoes
dill mushrooms parsley
potatoes sour cream
ROMANIAN garlic
RUSSIAN beets cabbage caraway seeJs
SCANDINAVIAN butter chives cream
pepper potatoes vinegar
dill horseradish mushrooms
c
p
s
n
a
217
SCOTTISH oats
potatoes
SINGAPOREAN chiles cinnamon
coconut onions
scallion s turmeric
chorizo coriander com
fruits, especially tropical garlic rice
gmger
red curry
gmger lemongr nutmeg
scallions turmeriC
SOUTH AMERICAN allspice beans chiles
SOUTH SEAS coconut
SOUTHEAST ASIAN chtle curry leaes garltc
SOUTHWESTERN UNITED STATES chile clove amse cumin caJeta fruit • especially tropical cinnamon Jumper bernes
SPANISH almonds anchoVies
beans capers
chtles chocolate cinnamon
coriander cumin prIic: nuts olive oil olav OOIQI05
nuts
nce age
oranges papnka parsley
peppen pork nee
saffron
seafood
sweet peppers tomatoes
turmeric vanilla
SRI LANKAN cardamom
cinnamon
SWEDISH dill gravlax
SWISS bacon
cheese
SYRIAN peppers, especially red
juniper berries
reindeer
chocolate meats
sausages
pistachios
pomegranates
ginger
peanuts
pignoli
SZECHUAN chiles fathlaUCC
leeb
Szechuan pepper
prlic
mint
peanua
....
pewer
,.,.,ind umeric:
a single song but rflther the entire concert. Still, a menu IS more than merely a hst of <.il hes. At its best, it communicate a chef's personality and point of view, and offers a significant opportunity for artistic expres_ sion. The writing of a menu can be approached as poetry or literature, with the aim of ChOOsing words that impart meaning to . f the dish or heighten diners' expectation of it, or amuse the expenence 0 , . ' . h h morous or clever twist on looking at It. A menu should eXcite t h em Wit a u the palate, starting with the very words chosen to describe the dishes. A menu can tell a story, just as a theater or opera performance can, such as the story of an ingredient, a region of the world, or a tlme In history. The phYSIcal menu itself should also be aesthetically pleaSing. Menus in history, In fact, have sen'ed as showcase_ for the artistic talent of the likes of Manet and Picasso. However, the art f camp ing a menu i~ too often overiookeJ. For example, the food media frequently place mllch more emphasis on the recipe for and pre entation 01 a Ingl I h th n on It, rldce In the pruce '~Ion of a menu that tll!!h It. And con umen 111 hd re ulre I m "h.lw-it-your-way" expectatlon on the p rt of r taur nt dmer who now count on ha\'lOg the freed m to rder \\hat vcr the} "ant whenever the\' want it Unf rtunatelh diner - ha\e thereb robbed (hem elve 01' th» expeneme of culinary .utl t ' full expre Ion of their ( lent through the coml ed mcnu which ilrc the be t exem la of (hclr cUlm. Chez Pam e 1 alone among leadmg rbtaurants In It pollq of offenn o a 10 Ie menu-"lth lit cholces--tO alii JlIIer, ahhou h other n: taurant m ffer chef' t rmg menu that I determmed at the ch f' JI retlon, The pnnclpl com 10 ' a menu tern from the dire t) m IXlffilZe [he Impact on both the palate and the per n over contmuum of time. How can rhe} bes en) ) a ene f ta tc and texture ? The Ide of gradmg i.lnJ equence-pr gr 109 10 a meal from lighter to hca\ ler JI he and from "hlte to red .... m ,for example-t\o!\'e from thl de lTe. What the palare hex!' nenced 10 the pre\ IOU dl h" III 10 fact ffeet it) enjoyment of (h current n (A .... eet dl h eaten after a "eeter ne" n't t te W et a .... h nth e are o;ened 10 the feVe~ rdef, £ rex mple.) And h ).... n e~penen e he be ten) ) ed' Cenamly It helps ( ha\C Wcl I t at I ppealmg t ) all the n ,with the )(x! n d n pi 4
n b.:autt surroundings, perhaps with appropriate music. Of course, tul -hll1,l, 1d l _ 'nurateurs together serve as t11e contro 11'mg rlorces W h 0 ensure t h at -h.:b ,111 res, 'bl L - , ' t 1tal experience IS as pleasurable as POSSI e. h.: dm.:r:, . 'ble Impact ' t Just asl a frame will have a subtle but appreCla on how we ' ting within it, so do the accoutrements of a meal affect our aes\.j.:W, t he pam '.:nce of it. The appointments of the table-from the centerpiece en rhetl e exr 'are-affect our reception of the food that is served in its presI w~g~W " whICh may range from poltshed ' ' even the eating utenstls, stiver to d el1e e, as d achopsticks. (We were once pleasantly and memorably served just a ere lacqu . ' , h of a fragrant broth in flat Chmese-style white spoons as an amuseSiP eae ule by Manhattan chef Ed Brown!) gue This is not to say that composing a menu applies only to twelve-course , gs I'n fine surroundings. Imagine the same level of thought and care rast tn applied to a lunch break or a weekend picnic! The art of composing a menu has to do with making the most of the food experience, no matter how brief or modest. It has to do with designing the overall food experience-not only through a series of dishes but through thoughtful attention to each component of a menu {which may also include such items as wines, specialty teas and coffees, bread, and cheese} as well a~ its pre,~enration (whether in a picnic basket or on Bemardaud china~). The purpoe of provlJing some of the principles of menu composition I~ not to put chef~ into ,tralt)nckct" of rulefollowing but to liberate their creath'e Imaginari n through a m re complete understanding of cui mary C3U"e and effect.
The Menu as Shared Experience
·'\Y./e've I r rh
t
oi the menu.
a com-
en~e
position." says Mark Miller. "The Idea of a holt tic exrertcnce, a hared perceptual experience. as opp eJ to 'orJerin u omething'-I think that' part oi what food has lo~t. 1t\ becl me commercial. Women ch fs In particular are much more attached to menu:>. The' are, I believe, much more concerned With creating a eme of family, the bonding of food and [he SOCial rroce" and the menu Itself and how thmgs How from One thmg to the other. There's an emotional quotient to food that I thmk women understand better than men." In the earl) day~ of Che: Pan , M'll , I er recall, "It wa mc.e beca use e\ el)one came for
p
a
M
22
. h b' l' t order. There wa~ this feeling of shared (intlcl_ I without t ea I Ity a mea, , '0 t someth ing where they d'd I n ' t actU:1 II Y know
, 110 eople commg m 0 patLOnP , " he says, "Looking across the room, you'd ee h hey were gomg to get, d w at t ' h thing and everyone be ing surpnse ,and everyone everyone eatmg t e sa m e , , h h' Panisse experience rather t an t elf own expeTl_ 'Ch being a part 0 f a ez b ' 'Th ' d their own famil y, their own usmess meeting. ey ence- thelr own ate, were part of a larger whole."
Menu Planning in World History China
cold
France
entree cheese
Germany Great Britain,S
hot dishes salad dessert
feu: or no hors d'oellvres des:ert
cheese course
Iud) , U. S.
alad
entree
Japan
mIld
spicy dishes
The Principle of the Thing
The principles behind menu compo ition are useful to under-
-tanding how to de ign a meal for maximum effect. Even if doing so involve breaking the rule put forward, at lea tit' bemg done with con dous intention In tead of haphazard whIm, with the hoped.for result being the maxi· mizatlon of plea ure on the part of the dmer. orne of the key factor underlymg menu compo luon mclude the season, both for it Impact on the Ingredients that are at thear peak and the usual daily weatheT/temperature; the guests; the OCCasion or theme; and the availability of time and other resource . Grading (an ascension of flavors and texture from Irghter and milder to heaVier and stronger), conmuCS (m color, texture, and temperature, for example), and the non...,.epttUIO" of ingredient and gaml hes {unless for COnsciOUS effect} are all Important Gue ts should leave the table tWled, never hurriedly ruahed nor unc fortably full.
Examples of Grading Principles in a Menu light delicate
rich textures full-bodied consistencies
subtle
strong flavors
complex
simple flavors
white
brown meats
white
dark breads
white (simpler) light
'Tis the Season
red (more complex) wines dark chocolates
"Menu planning is something that people do at home, for themselves and when they're
cooking for family and friends," notes Altce Waters. "It's very, very important to understand the principles, I think. And a complex thing to do." For Waters, there's no question where the process start. The first factu, m ,.,Jttmg together a menu is the "Obviously, it's what's in the market, what' eason- season. With Its particular produce and style of a!. That's number one," she says. "I jmt go and look, cookmg the season provides the keynote for the and I really don't decide before I look. What If what whole meal I wanted wasn't ripe, or wasn't there! I have orne Currc SKy ideas, of course; when you get used to domg thl , YOU look through boob and get Ideas, and then go to the market. "When I'm doing a menu, I'm thtnkmg about what kind of day It is, what I feel like eating. If it's cold, do 1 feel like eatmg some w(lrm oup, or If it's hot outside, do I crave something \'ery ,irople hke a tomato ~alaJ? Then Immediately I think about what ete need~ to be with that," a):, Waters. Once cheL know the larder L)f ingredient that are availahle and of the bbt quality, they mu~t rrive to present them in ways that Will be~t plea_e their cu~tomeL. "The compO~ltlon of a menu should ret1ect who you are aHumg the menu for," ay· Dante! Boulud. Charlte Palmer belie\'c;s that chefs hould undeNanJ how their client feel and know \\ hat they like, and not assume that everyone in the arne party ha Imllar preferences. "For example, one of our good customer lo\'e~ to ~tart u; With fme gras and Sauterne. It' perfect for huu," say Palmer, "but hi Wile r . Iealad, ~erved with ~omethmg aCidIC. . Our . 1 w uld preler a Imp Job.I to r ea e each cu tamer."
The Audience
CHEFS ON THE ORDER OF A MENU (:arnru-
Cumumkv
E""fficl'
.1 (1/>,l1IC " ~
CicOTgt.? (]enll0n
kai"'k,
and Jo/llmnl'
111<'<11
Terrance Brennan
Terrance Brennan's comments
amuses, e.g., smoked salmon or scallops, hearts of palm salad
You want it to be interesting, but nut to take their breath away.
/('{l"cn
colJ entrt-c (or salad)
vegetable soup
hot entree
ll1ll ku ~ II kc
(1))1II.ll·' · gHl'ltles ,
t:,itv.ar or
( ,11\
SlIl' h , h
slI\oh'd salm Iln or hnl hors d'0(,IWT(,5
01 I Illy cl.,b"r,lIe ,kltea,',,',,)
Iwr.l d ' Ol'ltt'Tl" ,'r "C'PI'UllIllO
s('f\ '~d 1"11 h s"h~
"H'P'
IjOIlI'
SOliI'
:Int'I""'", ....g .. \, ~" hd
soup or appctizer, c.g. , oysters
I he
foie gras
()y~h' rs
or
;l SS( 'rlllll' l\l
or soup
roasted or braised fillet of beef with lazedvegera bles or rice andjILs
pa,'l,LI
..
lighter prep'Harioll uf pasta ur rtsotto
rhe heaVIer preparation of pasta or risotto poached or patineed fish or fish stew
fish
fish
.s "shimi
fish, light (sea bass, hali but) to heavy (cod, salmon, tuna)
You want to progress with flavors, serving the more delicate fish first, followed hy the stronger fish. YclU could start with sea has" in a vinaigrette, follouoeJ by scallops u'ith black [ruIIk,. followed bv salmon u'ilh hOTserLuitsh
sorbet
relevc.s
n. \~'S I ("'..1 knd
111.1111 C. Hlr~l' III
"'u h \-Cl.!cr ... hles
I'llUltl \, 1ll\';1f lli"
(.'111
n.'c:-;
grilled
Inc..·~'t
nl~in cour~e, t'.~.,
rneat
g ..tl1h~
rneat or
galne
If po" ible, 1 like to leave It up to tile guest to select wltat tlley want-beef, lamb, (yf
game. n
pasr J I
';1~1
tHt.':\(
lll" g~une
<,II,hl
~" la,1
(,,,1.1,1\
\"'g"t:lhlc~
di.,ll l' .g. ,,,,,hi
rill'
TllI'"
'''liP
(,lit I,'IIW!"
cheeses
, hl'l'~"S
wrbet
(k . .",lt
d,'$~l:1 t
d,'s'l'l t
it lilt
dessert
May be served in a fruit soup.
dessert
(/>(11/\$,'11<'. Ill' c'1l';11lI III Ct .Ik,',
t~I\OI,
hllitl
j'c'flll
.mel
t t', \
coffee petits fours
You want guests to have something sweet with their coffee.
ell< leI ,1.It"~ chocolates
IiqUl'urs
and 'flirt!'
At the very end of the meal, it's another little surprise that allows you to surpass all expectations.
In order to meet the needs of his customers, Daniel Boulud ensure~ that the lunch and dinner menus at Restaurant Daniel provide reduced-calorie selections, such as the following:
Appetizers
Artichoke Stuffed with Leeks, Beets, and Horseradish VinaigTette Lobster Salad with Cucumber, Tomato, Romaine Lettuce and a Yogurt Mint Dressing Sliced Sea Scallops Steamed v.'ith Lemon Grass and Vegetables
Main Courses
Warm Chicken Salad tlith Young Spinach, Artichokes, Tomato, and Q Shallot) us Gnlled Salmon m a Fennel, Citrtls, and Star Anise Broth Roasted Free-Range Chicken WIth Hcer and Sour Lemon Sauce, Gla;:ea Carrots. and Yoan,!; Scallions
J
c G ld tcm ree that chef: hould try to know who they're cookme for. "Bee u th n )OU can e luc them~" he l.mghs. "If you know they t k ~ nd rfu1 trI to Greece I t ) e.lr, you (em reawaken their memories b, f\ 10 a Gre -10 plred menu. Or VOU l-cm Imply cook them a favorite dl h th t u kn (urn them on, nd et It in front of them without saying a \\ rd. Feedm e pI I h·c ndm them a lo\e letter." Ih t J ,01 tem h p for in re pon e! "When a plate I set do~n m front th m, I \\ant their e)e [0 light up and for them to say, Joh" he a . AnJ on e the) ta te it, I want them [0 smile and ay,
o
II
'Ahhhl' "
Th
omeflme a particular ingredient serves as the enu emes theme for an enure menu. Ahce Waters was partieularl m plred by a meal he'd had 10 a Japanese restaurant. "I had a ftsh that \\a aitve, th t they hUed on the pot," he remembers. "They took the filet t ff ne Ide nd grilled It. and the other id was hced for sashlml ri8h on th c unter And the bone were deep-fried It a great idea for und tandmg that fISh. and an Inspiration for menu
-
Rick Bayless FRONTERA GRIll and TOPOlOBAMPO Chicago. llJinOO
M menu works well, I believe, because it unveils snapshots of personalities, histoties, and emotions from a ~ place. There is a vivid Oaxac:m melody that runs throu~ the whole, staning with the brash and smoky c;hilts pasi/las oamquenos. stuffed With shredded pork, nestled mto tangy greens, and soothed with 80ft and saUCy black beans· All the fire and tang resolve into the comfort of creamy, luxurious squash blossom soup, then the flavors begin to swell with the charcoaled shrimp. roasted vegetables, and tender little dumplings, all
the Beard House in April 1996
Coctel Marimba A blend of metcal. grapefnm jIda. sangrita. and lime. ~ Oomcan Metcal from Encantado
PaIHround appetUen ...__ de AmIril1o-Cnae" {mit mtIS4 a.movm filled UIida cJoesic ,eh mole, sIa..Mrd cItiden. and hoja santa au,.daI en Miniatura Tot1iDas crisped (MJ' an otJen jiTe. liffWir:l tuich Oa·.. an serine c:Itt:eK, dtorito. and x....aoIe ~~P.7" g'n pled tuich ,. diIe w,rnbleund"""'" M .. - cAne
.'1
"*" ...
Dinner
_~S..,o."'""'''I': d·'rjilW .... sIa,dW,..r_M,+hr iF . .iHI........... /r8 . . u 'J. _ _
IS.-",,"'"
- -
Joadlllll
l'liCh,\1
PATIN A Los Angeles, C altfonua
Both special menu offerings were designed with the tastes and desire5 of Patina's Los Angeles clientele in mind. When we first opened for lunch, we had a lot of people who came constantly-they'd have three lunches here in a row. When you do that on a day-to-day basis, you want to eat light. You can't just eat things full of butter and calories. Some customers see angel hair pasta with tomato and basil as light. I think of broiled fish or vegetarian dishes as definitely light, and maybe more satisfying. The Garden Menu was developed to highlight the best available produce, while the Crustacean Menu was a way to offer a lighter menu which did not rely on vegetables alone. I've been a consultant to Canyon Ranch, a spa in Tucson and the Berkshires, and when you're trying to come up with three meals for 1000 calories, that's a big challenge. There's no dairy, no salt, no high-fat dishes. Most of the meal are chicken, and most of the time you enhance the food from a pa tandpoint with onion, leek, scallion, lemongrass, vinegar, mustard, and a lot of different herb. When you're cookmg for a pa, everything you think about cooking you can't think anymore. But at Patina, 1 do whatever 1 want. There are no re trictions, so we often enhance the natural flavor of ingredients with a little butter and cream.
"I guess that' a lot of what we do at Olez Panisse celebrate one vegetable or meat or another," says Waters. "WIth spnng lamb, you'll think about a menu that goes around that lamb. 111 think about what' growing at the same time that that httle lamb was, and probably end up With asparagus and spong onions. I always look up classic prql8f8t1Oll1 c:llamb and how people cook It In the spring-baking It m the hay, for exampIe-to inlpare what we might do.Other malU thanea are inIpired by • c:I place. Daniel Boul..d recalls a wild game dinner he evolved &om (!CIIIIOIIlIDi to pili a small game bUd 10 a cI hairY '7ocontanue Joach m Spi hal who collects Dlblraoac"f-aI1Cf.l"'!f8 ph
og aphy, be leves outltide "*1fW8f11 ng
. h ther or not it's going to be culturally correct. It turns OUt th out worrymg w e 'It . . b i t the table we can break down these fearful sort of ba It IS ecause 1ere a rfler, , I' th IDOSt common remark I hear about my menu. Peopl~ among us. t s e . ' ~ >ai', 'This is unlike any menu I'm used to see mg, and 1 can t make up my mind.' And I'll say, 'Good I Come back again.' "
The Pacing of Courses
To begin a menu , Daniel Boulud like to begin with a soup. "1 love soup," h:
says. "In the summer, I'll start with a cold soup, and in the winter, a hot one. My restaurant menu will typically have twO or three soups ,~n it, and some. times I run as many as twO or three soups as dally specials. Next, typically, might come a salad. "Salads offer an opportUnity for different compositIons and styles," says Boulud. "In the spring I like doing a crab salad with mango and cucumber served with mint and coriander dressing and crushed peanuts. It's healthy and refreshing." The palate should be e
c. h •
~ased
"1 certainly have the French and Italian way of
surprised. excited ttJroughoul a mea
looking at a menu," says Alice Waters. "I like a llttle _p. rd 0 ey .omething w begin. I'd put fish before a meat COurse, probably. But I'm not ngid about that. I could imagine putting an appeti:er of sliced pro ciuttn and melon before a gnlled piece of fish with an olive sauce or something. And I \\ould eat a alad hdnre the entree as a first coure, or if I were hadng a lmle longer meal, I'd eat It ,lttcr. And <;()metimes I eat it with, these day~. I kind a like the Idea (t ,1,1LI \\ Ith ,1 me, t Jlh. It help~ to prov ide a little contrast "nd cut the rrdll1e~ of the me t, til ha\'e ""lad with vmalgrett~. "\ Itke m 11 rnon. Or I Itke people tn he ahle to help themsehel from a plJtter an I take wha the~ wOllllltke; th,H'~ Ideal for me," ~ays Waters. "I don't wanr people to end up bcmg tull- ,Ltl~ticd, ye~, but not full. " L)dia hire agrc:e that the ~Ize of portiun~ can he very unpurtJOl. "Certam thlOgs hould be erved 10 deb Ite .lmounb," ~a~ Shtrt:. "L fren, \\ hen \ order head chee e, It come 10 too thIck a slice and 10 e It Jpreal. Or \\ hen I've had rabbit pace on my menu, ometime , cook \\ ould hce It too thick, which I hornhle. "On the other hand, I love thmg ter . "Like the ew York teak hou e they know you'll never be able to fml And [the Manhattan restaurant) Chn broccob!"
that arc meant to l"-e huge," he Cl unth, t gnll thrce-pollnd lob re \\hen h them, or the big ~teak the\ e(\e t Cella 1I ed to serve .1 whole he J f
me chef control portion ize through the numl"-er f c ur c: "Our gourmand menu h an extended format-It' nlnc ((llJTC"'-allow more freedom and flexlblltty In the con tru tlOn t eh f th e" ,ay Wayne I h .' The problem Ith three-cou t nn t I rh
. mming all of the food II ·ica Y Ja ba;, . those three courses. ps Into groU have an extended When yOU . menu, you can spread ras tlng( d groupS out over f·lve, hose rOO h [ . e courses, and make eac six nln . I '..d I course more spec la as indlVI ua . I.fy f being able to simp I . I aresutO . nice parade, m a luxuIt's a1so a . . onment , of luxury mgreryen Vlr d . hat can be displaye in d@mt .. an almost Japanese presentation fashIOn. Sometimes a dinner will have so many courses "What I mean is that If you get m, say, fresh lan- that it's overwhelming. . to serve it as an entree, you've probably got It's lIke you're being set for slaughter oous nne , o several on the plate and add a sauce and a -Mar~ Peel ro put . nd it all takes away from the speCialness of that langoustine. But in stare h. A a multi-course format, you put that langoustine on a plate in its unadorned beauty, the specialness that it has, that God gave it, and maybe it only requires a little sauce to complement it, or some herbs. You're no longer forced to crowd the plate with really extraneous things that are demanded by the customer," says N ish
Contrasts
Gary Danko say!>, "Sometimes I'll get teamed with other chefs to prepare a meal fOf a "peCial event. In accepting, I
say I'll do so on the condition that we really work on the menu so that It flows beautifully. I don't want to ha\'e a spicy roo~ter gumbo opening up that meal when I'm planning to serve a delicate fillet of ,ole, r-ecause you're not going to taste the sale. Your palate is going to be anestheslzed by all those spices." Daniel Boulud believes it's important that dishes on a menu not overlap in l1avor, taste, or texture. "Each one should have its own identity, its own character and ta te," he says. When dNgnmg a menu, Lydia Shire sets the goal of achle\'ing a balance: "I look to see what can playoff the other elements, whether it's spicy rer,us sweet, hot versus cold, crunchy ver~m :>oft, astnngent ver'>us fatty. In transitionmg from one cour'e to another, you probably wouldn't want to lerVt two meat cnur .. es in a row, or two rich cour es 10 a row. You want one sensation and tlavor to play differently agalmt the next." Becau e her eclectic cui,me incorporates "uch disparate influences, she add, "I don't think I'J do a menu that rook you from France to Japan to uth Amenca, for eXdmple--dt once, then can be toO much. J think you hould~alT) through with a whole regional theme, But that doe n't mean you 235
Examples of Contrast s Between Courses in a M enu brown meat/white meat cold/hot cooked/raw creamy/crisPy dry/sauced heat'y/tight mild/spicy savory/sweet
' e:I'· t' FlJr example might serve one Japanese Ji~h, anJ the can ,t mo d ern I . , "au I ' next Indian or Thai-but we wouldn't ~er\'e any dishes u~lI1g cream (which is not native to A,ian cui,ine) a" part of that menu." Alice \Vater, belle\'e~ that c~)mbinll1g multicultural influence. wlthm a single menu I, JlffICult, "I thmk it' very hard to put a menu t~lgether when you have dl he .Ill over the menu th,lt are fr'lIn Llifferent cui,me<' 'lay Water. "The all m,} be t bt m n I of them,e\ve,. Rut I keep trYll1g tll ru h the cook- [at Che: Pam eJ, telbng them, ,It y lu're 111 Itdl), 'ltd) in Ital). Make
dL he-
the plflt l f the I ubdn ,'" Water iee\ trongl} ahout mtcgrclting ltfferent texture~ within a menu . "I d n't bke ever} thll1g t I be of( of pureed. If one til h IS "cry ~mllorh, ltke a Ilk) II h \\ Ith, lUCC, I'd mIke the next cour e l:ontra tin , 111
erved \\ Ith gnlled duck. I like Juxtapo ltIon . And like Imle fned p tar alway omethlOg refre hm H the end.
"I ah\a~ thmk ab ut texture and wi r. I thmk that' one thmg I bn to the menu
till-\\hen I'm CTiuqumg the menu here, It alway ends being a LOlor Call! Ideratlon. I pick that up, where other peapl d n t much" d I \\ant them to be very aromatlc. Oth r peop ,a) W ater. " An
~hmking about other
tood from one COur
thlOg , like { te, but I hke a kmd of Itvelan to another."
Rick Ba} Ie believe that creatm oalance nd parameter "y,ou Want v oft, a well a me fre h c mponent y . Whtle nearly every au e h me are heaVIer r light rIOt heat 'Y u want t ) bUIld 236
menu hould net f ( xtur
t
something that's very hot, and then cool down with something that has almost no chile in it , before coming back up to something hot again. And it's important to never put too many flavors on the table-there shouldn't be more than four courses served," says Bay tess. "You want people to leave with . d memory of the meal. Because these flavors are very bold, more than a \"1\"1 . tOO much for the palate." t hat I, Rules are sometimes meant to be broken, which I think that the repetition of certain tastes withm a explains the appeal of a menu that features the same ingredient in more than one course or, 10 speCIal or whimsical cases, in every course-whether potatoes, or tomatoes, or truffles. "While classically you'd never
menu-corn in the hors d'oeuvres and corn m the soup, and the grilled flavor of peppers recalled by grilled fish-can be surprisingly effecfive and unifymg as a recurring theme
repeat any item in a menu, if an ingredient is in sea- -Alice Waters son. I don't mmd having or serving it more than once," says Terrance Brennan. "In corn season, one might ~er.. e two dlshe~ featuring corn, or an all-com menu." "It's po.;siHe to create a real array of tcl"te~ with one ingredient," attests Dame! BouluJ, \\"ho~e restaurant nnw offer a ,electIOn of such ta tings with ad\'ance notice. "At the Beard Hou,e, I once cooked , ~e\'en-Cl)ur,e menu based on tomatoes. ~\)metimes cu~tomer" will < k me to come up with a trufHe menu durmg truft1e season. It':, part f the eXCItement of a great menu to be able to achte\'e thi,."
AWay With Words
\Vlllie it'.- fine to haw fun, one of the mo~t Important thlOg~ on a menu can be < ccuracy.
Thmk of the times you'\'e heen excited to order a dLh, only to have the realIt)' ot It provoke dt,appointment. ", h n )oU write a menu, you want to deli\<:r the food that )oU prombe," ~a\ Terrance Brennan. Mark Peel add~, "1 ltke for eople to get a httle more than they expect. A,nu I\e read man') menu~ where omethm!! oundo gre.H, and you get it anJ It not qUttt! \\hat it ounded ltke. Or It\ le- than It ;,ounJed like. AnJ that's \ery dISapPOinting. And I \\oulJ rather th, t there be a little morc, that there's a htde urpn e there. I don't ltke menu th t read like ;"hopping Ii t." But , '10(\ :'Ih enon point ut that there are thmg that }Oll can't y e off· MF r example, \OU \\' ulJ ne\er urpn e omeboJ~ \\ith \\alnut,. J ne\ r urpn e lmebod~ \\ Ith om n, I Jon't thmk." Peel add, "Or It e \I 2 7
o~
Marrymg the elements of a meal correctly so as to
Lydia Shire believes it's important til hrin ach eve that eluSive eqUilibnum reqUires an under- humor into a menu . "The way you descrihe a di h standmg of each separate course and ItS Importhe menu sh ould be fun !" she says. "I'm proud that We tance Within the overall structure of the menu. were the first to put on our men u such -anJ-!\uch a JI h -Alice Waters 'with expensive caviar.' People sh ould have a playful attitude toward food ." Her menu at Biba h as featured lamb's tongue paired with lamb's lettuce, a play on both words and flavors. "Chefs shouldn't hesitate to play with words on the ir men us," encour_ ages Joachim Splichal. As a case in point, his menu features a dish of Chicken Wings with Unorthodox Chicken Liver. Splichal says, "If every menu read 'Broiled Chicken with ... ,' it would be unbearably boring." While humor can be an effective device, the goal of menu descriptions should be to get the customers excited about the food. "Anything on the menu must sound attractive," says Charlie Palmer. "It sho uld make the eu tamer think, 'I've got to try this dish!'"
George Germon & Johanne Killeen Al K>R 0 Prondena , Rhode I land
Lageder w a vegetanan, we used very little meat on his menu. Also, the wines had extremely clean, clear flavors, we knew they'd be perfect vegetable . In the fIrst coo ,the whIte bea add a creamy texture to salmon, while the grapefruit pICked up the acidity of the wine. The anti.. to was a nes of dIfferent thmgs. mcludmg egplant and zucchml and a creamy cheese that went well WIth the WIne. whICh tough match With WIne (althoulh ) the glass of the - -
added aueam and The diIh; lOUIe wae . ._
Even if the table is a tap, and the food aad wine play tarring roles, the performance of a m:at would not be che . . . .,uhout its supporting players. If any of the playen are out of sync, JuIft &he efl'ect of an entire performance. An ill
•
'The pogtzrion c1 wines served during a meal should provide its QIftI pera1lel. harmonious symphony to that of the food. Wines ..,w O • .,.,..,ent me food with which they are served. as well 81 the
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ww. BerIns and OrlOfCli ,., VmllClPtnoc 0: W· .991
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"It's important to pair food to wine, ano not vico " versa," says Jeremiah Tower. "A bottle of wine (;1" " _MFK Fisher change like that, but ingred ien ts are more 5table." Joyce Goldstein agrees. "I always ask for the wines be~~re coming up .h t: a wine dinner so that I can taste them fIrst, she says. ,,\, . WIt a menu ror ' . . ' IVI) , mell'er and wine is important m our famIly. Wmes surprise "ou' son IS a sam , 1 , , change even over the course of a year. wmes can , ' "Too many chefs don't taste the wines before creatmg a menu for a wine and food dinner. I was recently preparing a menu for a special event and Was planning to serve lamb. But after tasting the red wine that was going to be accompanying it, which was pruney, 1 reahzed It would h ave made the lamb taste toO muttony," she said. "In the end, 1 decided to revise my menu to serve beef instead, which was a much better match with the wine, In another case, one wine I tasted was over-oaked, and I could only pair it with potatoes, which helped to neutrali:e that, Other chefs' egos are sometimes too big, thinking that the food IS more important. But wine and food should make
to be complementary . in itself a compltment
each other look good." Jimmy Schmidt concurs that when creating a menu for a wine dinner, the wine them;;elves are the tarting point; he also develops dishes that make the most of their paIring with the particular wines. "The personality of the wine will !.!I\'e vou dIrection to ,hare the dish in a way that will enhance the t1avor of the wine," heay . Franc;oi P,l)arcl recall, bem o a ked to crecite a desert to be erved with Ch-teau d'Yquem. "It ,"ould h, ve been a crime to serve it with a chocolate de~ert," he ay. Becaus of the frultlne ~ of the Chateau d'Yquem, Payard decided to en e, m, ngo ,oup made with fre h mango puree and coconut mIlk, "If you know," me, )OU kno," it won't go with chocolate, which is bit, ter and powerful," a) Payard. "But ometlmes port can go with chocolate. becau e It' aged and piCler." A fruit compote can be served with a great de rt wine, as long as the compote i not too weet. "If It' too weet, the wme WIll taste our, " note Jeremiah Tower. Tropical fruit best lend them, elve to palTlng with dessert wines, he add . On the other hand, "a nch, weet chocolate dessert will oblu, erate the wme," accordmg to Tower. .. WIth chocolate, coffee hould be served-or nothing."
2
,
.'th wine is the best because
In
matching food with wine, you
\,\'NkU11l III , ' .. ncellatlon and reintorcement of flavors. For example: do <1 !elt 0 t L:1
I
, h 'e a wine that has a lot of tannin in it, you want fats and salts • It yt1U <1\ . ' d )f rake the edge off the tannm. to k111 l , , 'e got a lot of herbaceous qualities, which I'm not terribly fond of • It yOU \ , , . , . "ou can use green thll1gs ltke parsley or greener-flavored herbs In \\'1I1e, I . 'nto the sauce at the last second to Strip away a lot of those m'lr Ied l herbaceous qualities in the wine. You'll associate the herbaceousness as 'no ml)[e from the narsley than from the wine. C01111 '"
I
t
• If [he wtne i, high in acid. your sauce can come up right to that acid level; then there wouldn't be much contrast between the two acidity levels, so it's not going to seem ,'ery acidic. On the other hand, if you go higher in acid on the sauce, then the wme will seem bnd of Hat, If you go ron Iowan acid in the sauce, then the wine will seem very acidic, • In terms of bod)' and fla~'OT. If it's really a \'t'f) light \\me, the cnncentration of the sauce can kIll It if ~ecome. l) powerful th,lt the wme seems watery. • In tenm (If [nat leveb, if you've ~ot a I t III [he Wtnt.: and there' none in the S:luce, the ,auce will be tlat. ~o vou've ~ot to brmg lip 'Clme of the reJ flavor, m the ~auce-red wme reductlon, the a lditi n llf re I frult puree hke cranberr). The \\ me will t.1 te frUHler Ii) u've l!ut lOb of red tlw r in the ~auce than if you don'c Your mmd will read the re 1 in the ~auce .1' part of the wine, \\ hen really It' part 0 the tlll,-e. • There are ome \\'ine~ thelt ha\'c a lot of!!o d earrh\ ch, factefi~tlcsthey're tlmry anJ -uch. You can u e thc dner 'pice~ like curie nller that rem to come off a, more of an earrh}-t)'re tlavor or rnmeral-t'ype tla~
vor. ~
~ 1I
can either hUlld eli he, [0 runfofu: them, which i., t" get tho'c flavor, c.lo,e, of \UU dn .,epar.lte them qUIre cI hit for contfa r ,lOll ~tnp them. YOli C~1n kill a wme re.llly e.\Stl~, or you can reall~ parallel lip next to It. With a \\ me, )OU ha\ e ,1 perceIved IT te-then you take out of the \\ me )Our o\\n perception II the t te of the \\ ine\ Jlfferent flavar" nd then )Ou de Ign the JI,h ,lfUun I It, With f1
r all welL
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241
Jimmy Schmidt THE RATTLESNAKE C LU B DetrOIt , M ichLgan
This was a real seasonal menu that really captured all the first mgredients of spring-the asparagus, the wild mushrooms, the scallops and oysters. There was a real seasonal-regional approach, although obviously not all of the ingre_ dients come out of Michigan. The sauces were really attuned to the Win es. That's what really made the dinner something special. The flavors in the dishes tended to enhance the wines by cancelling any of their tougher char. acteritlc and allowing the real fruit and balance in the wine to Come fo r\\ard. Food and wine harmom' is not all ju t trying to pair ingredient together, but to match cerram t1a\'or m the wme-whether herbaceous or earthy or flmty-with _Iffillar characten tiC m the fo d, derendmg on which )'OU want to be more pred rom nt. Y u - n u ~ d (md wme pamng to reinforce f1avor~ that ou \\ or to a centuat r hi hit ht, a w II as cancel out things
f. Thl p ret ul r pr p rau n thrall h m n 1m rh t mak4;!s dIe), nd ppm th 1m n r dl h nd th r m that
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nt to et n
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mv lye running the potato cappellim ( t)pe Jf pa ta n 1m n c cwally h h d hor e· rt r t m WI pped. It' uteed th pot to vet) en p) n. hI h m ur . It gl\ It the run hyexte· th 1m n come thr u hand
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erwh tmmg-I[ kmd f u m whll ert 10 n hn of I wn I th I t red wme with chocdare The "VI'" real I roeethc:r-iOI1:.t fruiu are little ~ U\ me which wh I the P* which filled with roosted and then ftlIed, and then covered wiIh cbx:olatt realIvcnmch me ~~ inlkle."fhe
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Alice Waters C H EZ PAN 1SSE Berkeley, CalIfornia
This menu was composed to ce lebrate the arri val of the 1971 vintage f h . . . .. 0 t e Domaine Templer wmes. The look of the Wild flce wIth the tiny green e was a wonderful acco mpaniment to the quail. It was at this meal :' decided that creme fWlche is ideally suited for serving with stewed figs. e
tha~
The Bandol Wine Dinner
Fresh DelicaCies from the Sea • • • A Bouillabaise of Salt Cod made u,lth Garlic, White Wine , Tomatoes, Omons Potatues, Fresh Basil, Orang-e Rind, Oln'e Oil and Fish Broth '
1973 Bandol. Domame Tempier
• • • Fre h QUail Roasted Protellfal Styl~ u Ith Branches of Fresh Thyme and Ollle Oil 'ened ulth \'CllJ Rice and Fresh Peas 197 I Bandol, Domwne Tem/)ier • • •
G
[ (he t: from rh ollth of France 1974 B rulol D mam Templer • • •
ked ulth H 11
and Band I Wme en d uith Creme Frdlche
In dd,u n t ~ me, hread I flen the only con tant wtthm an nttre me II. H we\er, I d n't hke the way bread I treated In m t Am n n re t ur Of , Ahce Waters. "When you get ned a bl pile bre d ~ lth pi te f butter the mmute y< u are seated 10 a re tau n It talc a~ th ppetlte And people u e It t) de n up the plate I thmk f, th m t p " we n ed t get b ck t It ht b guette belOg sen ed With me 1 And I d I v thm Itke t n n br ds Ned With Indl n dm'~
Bread
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in meals, and American the gap . , . some ot whom have the dlnCf:', ' n spans of three-yearatr entlo ' ed something to fill the 01 d5, n e , . B It I'm never qUIte sure gaps. l th 't belongs. To eat with e IV here I 7 To sop up the meat cheese. " 7 Ma"be that's why I forget JUices. I ,
It,
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Lindsey Shere e ieves that bread is an important accompaniment to a meal. She observes that "large flavors often need a background to hold them in place. And I happen to like the flavor of flour and yeast. I don't have a lot of interest in things like cheese bread, because I don't think they work well with dinner menus." In Shere's definition, a perfect bread is "the levain bread at Acme Bread," she says. "It's got a gutsy flavor, and is good with cheese, butter---or nothing!" Even leftover bread excites Shere. "I think a delicious crouton can add a really special touch to a dish," she says. Alice Waters echoes this: "A lot of our food is served with croutons, whether it's a garlic crouton with a fish soup, or a crouton topped with grilled leeks served as part of an antipasto." Shere believes butter or olive oil i~ the perfect accompaniment to good bread. To heighten the expenence of enjoying La Brea Bakery's wonderful breads, at Campanile Mark Peel and 1ancy Silverton offer customers an opportumty to order one-ounce pOrtions of variou, extraordinary olive oils, ranging from $1 to $2.50 per ounce, to clccompany them. Silverton believes that there ~hould he a progre~5ion of flavors 10 bread throughout the course d a meal. "White ~ourdoughs are appropriate for starting out, to be followed by header bread, like rYb," she qyS, Silverton also gives careful thought to pair10g bread With other courses. She once had to come up With a bread to pair with a fote gras dish by JeanLouis Palladm at an e\'ent. "1 selected a fruit amI nut bread, which will work With the dish If It\ sliced very, very thinly," ,he ,ay . "Duck i~ great With sour dried cherrie . . , pecans, candied orange, and the,e flavors abo work well with [ole gras," SImilarly, she's teamed a mu,hroom brea...i made of farro with a nsotto With chantereltes. and palred a i lormandy rye made wlth fermented arl'le Cloer with hearr~ f()()d, like cabba~e, Whde Silverton th10b that few foods can hold up to the strength dnd the ~ourne"s of a pumpernickel, she ftnds both o'jsten, and moke 1 hh - e jual to the ta~k. Even ,nd\l.lche can be <.:nhanced by the ~electlon of the right, comrlemental) hread "I thmk a ceded ourdoll!.!h goe~ well with turkey, an I a Frenc.h h gu ette I de I!CIOUS With pro ciutto .Ind utter, b " ~'II verton 3)' . , "A n d
Pro?sident and Co-founder
Tht' Acme Bread Company Bt'rkeley, Cahforma
A., a ru,hl\' and cook at Che: Panbse in the mid-1970s, self-descnbed bread fanatiC teven ulhva n ,tarted baking head for the restaurant. His ll1spiratlon? "The book English Bread and Yeast Cooke h " who went on to open Acme in 1983. Acme has su"plied Ba, Y. TYA reaY t
2) Theatre-both in the brea.d itself, and within the restaurant context .;; dli\'an has enjoyed expenmentmg with different shape, of bread. "If bread is d'ff _l " ' I erent .In one way. -u,wl11er \I'd I pay more attention to all of Its characteristics" he argues "And I't'S entlcmg '. ;1 l . • . , . to he able to .qy 'We baked It ourselves -espeCially when I was a busboy at Chez Panisse and could t II customers, '1 made this.' It's theatrically effective." e
I
3) Heart and soul-what the baker brings to the bread
"You can tell when someone brings an energy and exuberance to bread. In fact, sometimes a funky bread can work If there IS enough theatre and soulm the bread to overcome less-than-perfect techOlque. " ,
With regard to pairing bread with food. Sullivan cites a few of his favorite combinations. "We sen'ed rye bread with oysters in the Cafe [at Chez Panisse], which is a traditional combination," he says. "I like peanut butter on toasted whole wheat bread, and toasted cheese sandwiches on levain bread. And I like walnut bread with goat cheese. I don't know if that's a traditional combination or not, but on our honeymoon my wife Susie and 1 really enjoyed it." Does Sullivan prefer hutter or olive oil on his bread! "I think both are really, really good ways to get your USRDA of fat," he deadpans. "I recommend both heartily." Does Acme bake the best bread in the world? At first. Sullivan humbly dodges the question by usmg It as an opportunity to relate how Keith Richards of the Rolling Stones was once asked to name the best rock-and-roll band m the world, and Richards' rerlv that lln any r
The hors-d'oeuvre IS the first magisterial move-
to help the diner feel happy that they'rl' therl'," agrces Joachim Splichal. "The fiN bite shoulJ ~e amumg, hke a com blini With marmateJ salmon and caviar [an amuse Sphchal ,enJs out to Patina's special cu~tomcr J. Canar IS not cheap. '><.) It's a nice surpri~e to welcome the !!Ue~t to the restaurant and say hello."
ment of a culinary symphony that continues to the very end WIthout a false note Just when you've reached the ultImate WIth a particular course another follows to surpass It -Fer'1and Po.iII
Jeremiah Tower's preferred way of welcomml:! a gue~t is with !>omethmg ,altv. and ch ampagne. W h'Ie h together sen'e to cleanse the 1'a Iate. "I t can he caVlar but I't uOe.,n ,) 'h . ' t ave to he-ham. pork, or air-cured heef can a II he de I1CIOUS I J k to serve anythmg with butter, because it du II s t I1C I' on 't I I'C pa ate .... But I w()ulll n 't t urn down hi ml '" wit h caviar. . I" In Sume ca.,e , the fir"t cour,e .en'cd i a oup. "Even if people only want a few C I I Ollrse, a ways give them ,oup," says Jean-LouL Palladm. \I, I ?ut (,f re pect for 1exican tradltton, Rick Baylb> feel the 'arne. "You au '1 never h i " ave a mea m ~ lexlco where oup wa' not erved. he expIam.,.
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247
A particular favorite at his restaurants is one of fresh com anJ r():\ ted po blanos, WI"th a handful each of epazote (a fragrant, amse-flavored ' h"ht ... . herb which "gives the soup a light mouthfeel") and raw masa (the dough green " " ) "Th" . used for tortillas, which gives the soup Its creammess . IS soup IS tangy and tart, light and crunch y," says Bayless. "These ar~, s~ul-satisfying flavor,." On the other hand, A lice Waters argues, I m a soup-as-mam-di,h ptr. son. Soup is too filling, and I find it h ard to fit into a menu, unless it's a COn. somme., " Nancy Silverton knows exactly what sh e likes in terms of cheese after a meal. "Always a blue ch eese," she says, "and always a goat cheese. If the blue cheese is Stilton or gorgonzola, then a fresh goat cheese. If it's a mild blue, then I like an aged goat cheese. And I alway, like a strong-tasting cheese-even a Parmesan." If only serving one bread with cheese, Silverton would like to see It be a white bread, such as aourdough batard, while Lindsey Shere might opt for a whole wheat/walnut bread offering. "It's so good with cheese," Shere says. And wme I~ a mu -t to properly enjoy cheese, according to Charles Palmer. "I don't under-rand when people don't drink wine with cheese," he says. "It's hard to intrude on -omellne ,md mk m'lkmg them feel stupid in the re~t3urant b} n t urdenng It. But )metllne- I'll send over a little glass of port If I ee people e ung chee e \\ Ithout reu w1I1e or port." "I thmk thClt ch<.::e e like drieu J,LLk, lJruy re, emJ harJ sheep' -milk chee e .Ire the be t to he encd With wme," ay~ Jeremiah Tuwer. "Triplecreme He much t tT ng ~ r red \\ II1 ." E\ en Palm r, .... ho I ,I partner 111 a dalr" admits th,1t "cheese i~ often Cheese IS like the apotheOSIS of a good meal too much for 100 t penple. It' too much t~)r me half -C y the time' At Chantcrelle lin New York Cltyl, they h'IVc ,m mcreulhle chee e ui pldY. But after that, de ert hCl.:ome ,In ,llterth ught." ervmg chee e With '1 meal u ually call for a imple de ert, like a herbet, according to LmJ e~ hen: Or m Altce Water' case, "I like chec e In tead of de ert maybe with a little candy at the very end. 1 love h e nd frUIt. Or che e nd ala \. )r chee by It elf with f, w nut IOJ drIed frull . But I rcall Ilk h
Cheese
h
Roquefort Parmesan Fontina
+ + +
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aprles dates rears
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---
Terrance Brennan admits that until he visited three-star restaurants in France, "I was not much of a dessert person. But ail' how sublime it could be." Brennan fell in love with "the perfect (here. J mille-fetlille" and other desserts he was served, which he found the perfect finaJe to a great meal. ''Too often before that time, I was disappointed with dessertS. But now 1 believe that a great meal should end with a great dessert," sayS Brennan. "It also inspired me to make sure I worked every station during
Dessert
my swges-including pastry." One of the best desserts Brennan ever had was at Le Bacon, an allseafood restaurant in France famom for Its houillabab~e where the windows opened out onto the Mediterranean. "I wa~ .,en·ed a perfect jraise de bOIS (Wild mawr-erry) tart. It was just sahle , a Itght, cmpy, airy 'iugar crust-and a little pamy cream, and fraises des bois ," Brennan rememher~. "It was sublIme. " The key to a great dessert? "FLnllr. The marrtage of perfect ingredients. Getting the best chocolate you can buv and the hest fruit you can huy," says Brennan. "Not having too man\' Jiffaent thing on the plate. Preparing the dessert a !a minute as much a pl)."lhle,.,p It\ a' tre,h a, po."ihle. And it ,houlJ be focused: it ha.., to make en e." "De sen should he an equal pan of the meaL" ..,ays Ch,nles Palmer. "And It ~houlJ he built around craving . . People tenJ tl) have definite feelings about de sen. Even If I told a customer, 'Thi de"ert i., perfect With what you're haying,' I'd \\orry about disappOlnt1l1g them! Sometimes you feel like eattng a specific thing for de'sert." cravinos 1fe not alwa\'~ for chocolate. "I'll De plte ItS t'nopularit\J1 in de"~"rt,.J...... oJ, 1 . go through phase when I don't tat chocolate," says Palmer. "In the wm~. n thtng \\11I taste a~ good as a c.lramdi:ed appil: de~'iert." On the other nd, ~~\ent\-fl\e percent of Cll,romers love chocolate," says Dieter L h rner. "And they \!tIll be di appomted If there\ not a chocolate de"ert on tile menu." L
1""0'
249 a
M
A pastry chef has the unique challenge of making desserts that complement a chef's creations. Lindsey Shere has faced that challenge under a long line of chefs at Chez Panisse, from Jeremiah Tower to the restaurant's current chef, Jean-Pierre Moulle. "I still create based on my own inspirations, but I also try to keep up with them and to understand where they're coming from," sh e says. "Jean-Pierre is the most classic ch ef we've had in a while , probably since Jeremiah . His interest is more French-oriented , and since he started out in pastry, it's great because h e knows the kinds of things he'd like to see with a particular menu as dessert, whether it's a cake or pastry or sherbet. That's a big help !" Shere contrasts h is style \-vith that of former Chez Panisse chef Paul Bertolli: "Paul was more interested in Italian cuisine and simple desserts. But he liked fireworks-he once came back from New York City, where he'd eaten at Le C irque, and was talk in g about a dessert he'd had with planets and swirlmg "auce,. He loved that. A nJ 1 J o think that Je~~ert is the one place where you can have fun and occa ionall y do.1 whimsical garnish that i illy." Too often, dessert IS a sugar fiX rathar than a h ere u e choLolate when the chef sugge t that little touch of sweetness as a change from the It' appropri lte. "J e~m-Pierre knows the richness of his savory, the salty or the piquant men u-,'· . y .... here. Getting the green light recently -A ce W m plred her to erve a trio of chocolate desserts: a £lourie,s ch ala te cake, a chocobte-orange herber. and chocolate-almond bark. "~o me pe pIe like chocol te nv time," he admit, "but after something n ch, [ prefer clean and hght f1av r . A tangerine sherbet with liqueur poured over It can be the be t . emu herbet and pear herbets are desserts [alwa) ltke. And they're alway served here With accompamments hke cookie ." While here thmks it "impos Ible" to name the be t de sert he' ever had, one particular dessert doe rand out in her memory. "Timbales EI',Ysksa de sert with a cookie cup, a scoop of ice cream, berrie , and sauce an a caramel cage," he say . "It is such a wonderful combmation of textures and fla\ or ." But an extraordmary dessert can also be qUIte Imple. Ahce Warecall, "One of my favonte, favome dessert ever was after a kalSeki meal III K),oto. We had had seventeen fam tiC cour ,wIth ten peopl In
'h cooking for five people at the counter. It was kIte en.ing experience. And at the very end, we were
an ama. a little glass of the most sweet and delicious (lffereJ
Very rich desserts should follow only the simplest of meals; on most menus, something light and playful in spirit IS best. Lots of air, in the form of a
, e J'uice that was not too cold or too warm- souffle or a mousse, is usually apprecIated, ices wngen n . the perfect temperature. And you just drank it, are refreshing, Just hat was it. It was ,teen h d' -and Just . so nice . to be -Richard Olney an d t h 1 I " able to punctuate t e ~ea pr~per y. .. , In Susanna Foo s opmlOn, tradmonal Chmese desserts "aren't very They're typically either very heavy, based on pureed walnuts or red d gOO . 'ust fresh fruit. Even there, Western-style bakeries are popular." Foo beans, 0 r J . , ' akes some liberties from tradmon WIth her desserts, such as serving poached t flavored with star anise and ginger, or creme m-u!ee flavored with ginger pears . . If he chooses to serve multtple desserts to end a meal, Franc;:ois Payard might start out with a small fruit soup-"just two or three bites," he saysbefore serving a tiny fruit dessert, perhaps followed by a chocolate dessert. "I don't make smaller chocolate desserts, because they're a lot of work," explains Payard. "And dessert is like food-you have to take the time to , ." appreCIate It. Charles Palmer enjoys presenting a table of six with a combination of desserts. "I'll send twO, two, and twO of three different desserts. People love passing them back and forth, trading tastes-it becomes party time!" says Palmer. "Dessert is the time to festively finishing things off in a mea!." Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken agree. They recall a $250-a-head dinner for which they were asked to provIde the des en. "We erved ice cream sandwiches made with mocha chip Ice cream." ~1tlliken remember
WIth amusement. Some chefs make a pomt of extending the pleasure at the end of an elaborate meal through petit fours and chocolates. "I love petit fours ," ay' Terrance Brennan. "In the European style, e~preS50 -hould be ~en'ed after dessert, and it's mce to have a sweet to go WIth your espresso. I sen'e a plate of petit fours \\'l[h the coffee. followed by a plate of chocolates to end you on your way." Franc;:ois Payard believes there 5hould even be an order to the .ervice of the chocolate" "They should be con.umed from the ltghtest to darke. t. Just like wme," he .av, ,
Coffee, Tea?
Joachim Splichal. whoe restaurant Patina already offers chamomIle and thyme-lemongra,s "infu~ions" after a meal ,I now expenmentlOg . , WIth c.tate co ffee~. to he -erve d '10 10 d'1VIdual plunger- tyle coffeepot, Our coffee L a blend of four different type t c.. ffe e we came up with "IX year ago after trYlOg more than fift) different
t
he says ' "and we've learned that now people know their c(l~. ff . Coffee has taken on the importance of the ~alet ~arkmg . guy who open th~ door for the customer- it can be a customer la t Impre slon of a re taurant " ieter Schomer recalls the standard for tea at one of the f tne. t D taurants where he once worked. "There was never granulated UPr re rved with it--only brown sugar cubes or cry tal sugar. The tea fl aVor . se ome out better with raw sugar, as oppo ed to pulven zed, bleached ugar," C rr .. Cill,e9,
says Schomer.
A opposed tc wntmg a set menu for a ingle meal, WrItIng a re taurant menu i all about giving one' customers choices on that are likely to please them, and one that the restaurant will be able to fulfill, In most case , for an entire season. It' mostly the latter constramt that promp Daniel Boulud to ~ "If It were up to me, I would not havana fa ctII'te menu. I would Just cook every day whatever I could buy, and ha a hmated menu rna four appetizers, four mam courses, and four ha them change II the time." The varied 1
Writing a Restaurant Menu
tare a much lorIaoer mer.... wl'lMft'l tty,"
Boulud adnUtl.
, t" g together a menu, we'll make a roster of sauces fir t When we re put In . . ' 'nitely from the sauce as the starting pOint. We work very defl . ' rants we have the sort of protem categones pretty well 2) Li ke most re t au , fixed. You've got to have poultry, you've got to have fish dishe and 1)
staceans and that kind of stuff. 3) ~ew days after we've come up with that, we'll sit down and talk about the way we're going to put it on the plate. That usually will dictate or give rise to a number of idea for accompaniments and garnishes and that sort of thing. 4) After we've got that sort of ketched out, we'll live with that for a few days, and then we'll come back and really fine-tune it. We're just getting ready to make a menu change at Topolobampo next week. We'd gone through thi whole proce and last night I wa doing the final rewrite on the menu, and I realized that we had too many things coming from one tation. We'd been thinking more in term of all the flavor, in the di hes, but we didn't get it right in term of the logi tics on our line, so we had to go back and re-vamp me thing this morning.
And the t Clng proce hould be thorough. "Before you put something on a menu, you houldn't JU t ta te it with your finger," 'ay Jean-George Vongerichten. "You mu t eat a whole plate of it fir t." "I could write a menu an an afternoon," ay Lydia hire. "But to do It right, we pend week developang and te ting idea , reading, tJlkln b, researchmg angredien ,and ma)ung ure each di h i great. We cllulJ JU t put a curry d h on the menu and leave tt at that. But in tead, we go to the Indian market and get me edtble tlv r leaf to put on the plate. And u Ie [RegL5, Shtre' second-tn-command at Blba] wtll develop a poem-a puffed Indtan bread to serve WIth tt. ow he make the be t poon in the orld!" WnClng a restaurant menu
typically undertake Ie8lO11lally-<>r even m< re frequendy. e Uchanae the menu a tn order to tncorpor te inpedlel\ at their peak m the e a r l y " y Daniel II
a pm::ell
that ladq
Bo.,hwl Oil cook IeMOM
·118-.
.. Terran Sr nn wir11ter•• alona tth a lor m Ie I
r
;
~
cooking and rustic cooking. It lightens up in the spring, and in the summer it goes really light-more geared toward fish and lighter preparations." Brennan points out that it's produce that changes the most from season to season. So while he has certain nonseasonal dishes, such as risotto with wild mushrooms, that are always on the menu, he'll change the garnish with the seasons. "The same risotto dish I serve with a pumpkin garnish in the fall might be served with a squash garnish
in the winter, an asparagus-and-fava-bean garnish in the spring, and a corn garnish in the summer," he says. The startIng point? Daniel Boulud says he gathers books, prior restaurant menus from the same season, and a list of previously-run specials from the same season in order to come up with a "repertoire" of ingredients for that season. "The most important thing here IS to focus on the products I know and the quality and reliability of the supplier~ I use to get them in. When there are ingredients that I can only get in ~poradlcally, I'll feature them as dally specials instead of putting them on the menu," ~ay~ Boullid. "Thmg, like frog legs, which I can only get in on Monday~ or ThurdaY'-lf I'm gomg to put a dish on my menu, then I have to l">e certc1m thrtt the supply and quality I can get is consistent." Johanne Killeen says that seasonabty is probably the most Important thing when commg up with a menu. "In the summer, (Jur menu is just loaded with com and tomatoes. In the fall, we go into 'quashes. In the wlllter, cabbage. and sweet potatoes and a lot of pumpkin, and now [in the spring] we're beginnmg to see some green again," ~he -ay . "But going to the market IS a big influence. We market every day, and when we vi it our wholesaler occasionally we come l">ack loaded with tuff to experiment with." Once the basic menu has been established, chefs J~lIb,~e-check to ensure that their offerings mclude enough diverSity. I hke to gIve my cu tomer a broad varlet\'," ,a\'s Joachim Splichal. "You have to have h:ef, chICken, and veal on the menu; expected at a place like thiS. About four ~ear agO, \\e . add ed ' . Ad vegetanan and eafood offerings to t h e menu. n a couple of year' ago we added the category of 'Odd Things,'" whIch include~ rhchal' beloved offal.
Variety
it's
c
rn p
M
255
With one week's advance notice, Restaurant Dan iel offer peciai ta tlng menu and classic dishes that can be ordered for the entire tabi e. These include:
US Menus sur un Theme
New York State Apple Menu Black and White Truffle Menu North Atlantic Seafood Menu
Wild Mushroom Menu Wild Game Menu
CHEZPA 1 E ~ CAJ;fomia
'Remember that dish we had " Can you imagme if AI 3t.·· . Forno took gnlled piz:a off their 1 I v,Jould cry. When I go to U men· A.I Forno, I'm having grilled pizza. ; have tWO pizzas, and it's great and that'S part of the identity of the restaurant. But you can be sure that George has got to be a little . I" tired of making those PIZZas.
. ht
"The best compliment you can get is when a custamer is leaving the restaurant after a several-course meal and says, 'I feel so good!'" says Hubert Keller. "The food doesn't lie." As we've seen, how chefs accomplish that feat is through applying basic principles of menu composition to achieve their desired affect on a customer, just as great composers and playwrights can hit the right buttons that they know will make us laugh or cry. Joyce Goldstein believes that as a chef, you must design the way a menu will affect the customer. "You have to figure out, with finger food and a threecourse meal plus dessert, how many orgasm do you have in a meal? You don't want to have four! Nothing Will have any meamng, because they'll all be the same," she says. "So it's, How do you want to play It? Do you start quiet and build to the second course, and then lay l(m and build to the third? Do you start quiet, quiet, quiet, and build? Do you hit them the first time, and let them recover? You have to choose where you think your big gun is, or the one that's going to cause silence at the table. And you can't do it at every course. So you Just have to plot your attack. Which dish is the killer? WhICh is nice? WhICh is another little crescendo? And where's the surpnse?" Norman Van Aken sa'-'s "Durin a"' a wine dinner there's an Inherent J , probability of gomg from light to rich, interposing It occasionally WIth a little preview of a little bit of richness before you get down to the very rich, and then a relief somewhere In the mIddle. "1 think of composing a menu a a lot like putting together a four-act play," Van Aken ays, before providing examples of the roles various ingredle~ts and di he, can enact. "Every now and then, the villain's got to jump out ot the do et and scare the -hit out of everybody. The 'villains' are only m the Wording, in the 'Co,tumlng.' I might de,cnhe ~omethlng 'chile-rubbed and rO~ted brea t of squab on a habanero sal~a'-but when it's eaten, It's not gOing to be VillainOUS. And at the end, the little girl comes out with a flower In her hand. he's afe, we're all safe-we've had chocolate!"
When It's Rig
m p
• n
M
r
259
. ,. COMMON ACCOMPANIMENTS TO ENTREES O ver time, certa in accompaniments h ave become familiar companion to various entrees-liver and onions, meat and potatoes, pork chops and apple_ sauce, turkey and stuffing. This list includes other combin ations that, while perhaps not as well known, are similarly time-tested matches. Given that toda y vegetables are co mmonly incorporated as part of a dish itself rather than simply served as a side dish , there is some ambiguity as to whether the match should be included under "C omposing a Dish" or her e. Readers may wish to refer to both lists, whether co mposing a dish or a men u, for different inspirations. While this list provides suggested matches, a chef's poin t of view will inspire how they will be applied (or whether they will be rein terpre ted or ignored!). For example, the classic combination of meat and potatoes is open to
interpretatlon as:
• Pot-Roasted Beef Fillee tt'ieh
~fashed
POtatoc8
-George Germon & ]ohanne Killeen
• Grilled Fillet of B.:ef u lth Cracked Black P.:J)pcr and Cognac Mustard Cream , send u-ith Shoestrmg Potatoes and Gla"eJ Carrots and Beets -]o)ce ()old tem
• Brazsed hort Rib of B
4. Leeks , and Potato l'-follssdine-Gray Kun:
• Unlled C A.B Rlh·Eye teak lmh Red age teak Satlce and Ttdce-Baked Potato km -.1Jrk .1tller • PaLma moked BeejTenJerlom «11th liar eradl h'(Jlazed Potatoes and pmach Jo. chlln 'phchal BASS broccoli e.cgpl mt
endive
po tar .
elm"h Ike he. r bru eI prout
morel mu,hroom,
ratatuull ie
celet) mot
r
red cabbage plll.lch
e Lamie
po tatoc
tomato~
BEEF
fennel •
Many of Ihese combinations are claSSICS these are rndlcated In boldface
260
A
t
typ
eE EF BRISKET beetS
cJbbag e
parsnips pasta
potatoes sauerkraut
SfEF SHANKS l'0le nta
BRAINS
potatoes, especially mashed and roasted
tomatoes
watercress
carrots
potatoes
omons parsmps
potatoes. especially
potatoes
tomatoes
CAVIAR blmi
egg~, hard-bOIled
sour cream
bread, dark Champagne
lemon onions, raw
rice salad
BUFFALO cabbage
CAPON celer\'. pureed cher"nuts. pureed mushrooms
pureed stuffing
CATFISH cole slaw hush puppie-
vodka
261
CHICKEN artichoke hea rts asparagus beans, {ava beans, gree n beans, lima broccoli brussels sprou ts carrotS
celery root crayfish dumplings egg noodles eggplant mushrooms onion s orzo
parsnips peas potatoes rice spinach turnips wild rice zucchini
COD escarole kale
potatoes tomatoes
carrot" ool\1n..,
potatoe"
pea cr en
radicchio
apple apnc It barIe} beam. fa\3
ch rnut corn enJ,,,e e ar Ie
potatoc
rhublTb nee rut, b 19a
beans. \\ hlte. pureeJ be k cho~ broccoli brussel pr ut
fig
~allcrkr.IU[
beans, green broccolI eggplant
CORNED BEEF beets cabbage
turnip,
CRAB raragll cab age
.1
CRAYFISH wle la\\
DUCK
bulgur
cahba e cabbage. reu carr t c I ry c lery r t
green gnt lenni mu broom par nip pa I n fruit pears pe polcot
allion p mc h pact:lc
pmach IUd
h. buttt:rnu[
"eet potatoe ,Ill !turnip, e wild ri e
FiSH ~rrichokes ~sp3raguS
beans, (3\'a broccoli cabbage cepes
FISH, WHITE cole slaw parsnips
ham potatoes
sausage toast
chips coleslaw cucumbers endive fennel leeks
pasta ratatouille nce spinach
potatoes
sorrel
grapes lentils
toast
FOIEGRAS cepes compote
FROGS'LEGS celery root
mushrooms
GAME apples cabbage cabbage, red celery fOut, pureed chestnuts, especially pureed
rears rotatoes sweet rotames tlIrn i r s
grapes hommy lentib parsnip:'
GOOSE arrles
brussels srrouts
chestnuts, esrecially rurceJ
sauerkraut wild rice
cabhage, red
p
g
M ,
'
263
GOULASH noodles
rice
spaetzle
GUINEA HEN apples brussels sprouts cabbage
carrots lentils potatoes
risotto sausage
HALIBUT beans, green broccoli
cabbage eggplant
potatoes spinach
HAM apples apricots beans biscuits cabbage carrot chestnut
corn pudding gnocchi lentils peas, especially pureed potatoes, e,pecially creamed or pureed
sauerkraut spinach, especially pureed spoon bread sweet potatoes turnips
HARE che tnU cranberne
porCini
squash
leek
potatoes
mushr m noodle
pota toes
aioli
bean , flageol ts/white
apnco artlch k
beans, green beans, white
bru eI pruu bulgur c rr ( ,c pe I \I~
aspara
brocc )It
HERRING apple cabbage
KIDNEYS cepes
coleslaw
al J
LAMB AND MUTTON
r am d
MACKEREL apples eggplant
OXTAILS noodles onions
gooseberries
potatoes
nee
parsnips potatoes
OYSTERS, FRIED coleslaw
potatoes
OYSTERS, RAW ale, beer, or stout bread. dark (e .g .• pumpernickel, r)e, wheat)
wine, white and dry
toa t
PARTRIDGE endl\e fritters green pasta
PHEASANT apples brusse prout
cabbage cabbage. red carr celery root. especially pureed celery c:batnu • tall ~
[Ole gras
rapp\e
lent
nce u rkr ut
gn
1
h mm lentil muhrooms noodl omons orzo
parsmps peas polen pota
pumpkm uerkr ut u h, peCI II l-u' (ernut turnIp
PORK apples
beans, fava beans, hma broad beans brusse ls sprouts cabbage
cabbage, red
cepes ch estnuts, espec ially pureed
q UInces n ce salad
lentils
sauerkraut
pears po tatoes, especia lly mash ed
sn ow peas sweet potatoes turnips
e ndive h o miny, espec ia llv fried p,)tatoe, nee alad 'dllerkrdllt
spinach squa<;h , especiall\, mash ed . wa terc ress
PORK CHOPS apples J-.eans, e peCla ll y pinto and refried heet' eaJ-.ha~e, reJ cole,l
POT ROASTS e peel Ilh rraJ ed Jumplm endl\' (mon CaITu •
pot toe , C P 1111\ b cd IT P IOcake lid In
r,)matoe, turnip
h
POULTRY
che tout e peel 11\
pplc
be n f \ bru cI pr ut Glbb c uhf! \\ r
pur ed f, nn I 1
polent.1 P ltatoe r Hat Utile poon bre d
rapc~
QUAil aru ul
hea
pear
gr n
brussc:~ls
IX I ora pcrtJe
hread weethread weer IX rar -.e hard
ch tn
t
n
m
h,f'OOIllI
RABBIT bad e\"
" II
e
RED SNAPPER broccoli cabbage
ROASTS broccoli brussels sproutS carrots celery root
d
greens noodles pasta potatoes
rice pilaf spinach turnips
eggplant fennel
zucchini
com, especially creamed grits onions parsnips
potatoes salsify shallots turnips
ROAST BEEF bean. green brussels sprouts cabbage
onions peas potatoes
turnips, mashed Yorkshire pudding
cucumber, eggplant Jeru~akm arrichoke, lentils mushrooms
GOlan, peas potatoes ljumoa ,pinach
SALMON asparagus beans, fava cabbage, red com couscous
SAUSAGES apples bean, brus,el, ~rrout' cabbge cabbage, red Cllul1f1o\\er cdery
che,tout fennel leeks lenni, union, rea, polema
pmaroe,;, e,peclally mashed nee sauerkraut [Omatoe" e'rectally fried
69
SCALLOPS
radicchio rice
escarole kale potatoes. especially mashed
SEA BASS
fennel
beans. black. fava. and white
watercres<,
potatoes. especially new
SHANKS rice root vegetahles. e~pe clally pureed
noodles . polenta potatoes. espeCIally mashed or wasted
SHELLFISH fennel
pea
rhuharb
01 1.1\\ lee noodle
P t, toes flee ~ uerkraut tomat Ie
grdin~
SHORT RIBS bean • pureed beer broccoli bru I prout cabbage
pa r
pc
SHRIMP gram pasta
pea greeru
n e
radlCchl
alad
eggplnr
weer pc. t we
SKATE bean. e peclally whne
SMOKED SALMON bhnJ
rye
A
br
t
[
L)dia Shire and Chef de Cui ine Daniele Bali.lni PlGNOLl
B",wn . Massac htl ,~tt\
h h I' ~ menu , we didn't look a t a r artlCular regio n of Italy so much a~ We do thing~ that were bo th s~asonal and based on traditional fooJ, served during the winter in Italy, U smg claSS IC m gredlents more than actual recir es , we came up With our own dishes and mterpretatlons of them that were roo ted 10 tradition-WIth a little tWist , The Antlra,to Giuliano was a combination of abo ut a dozen plat e, 0 f all sorts of marinated vegetables and calamari-typical Venetian gnlled seafood and marinated vegetable ', i 'ext, we en'ed a mini-pancttonc (Italian Christmas brioche bread) filled With cl po t ItO ' o ur laced with oxtail and beef marrow. The soft and nCh marnm JU t melt J mto the our and ',1\ e added richness to the soup, as the po t.l roe' \\ere Jll t a de H ,md imrle ha e. It's \ ery Italian to serve douhle 't.lrche It~e th bre.ld mJ p )[,1£0 here. In faLt, a lot of the rasta course, In It,ll -e peCll1l 10 Tu m}-fcature I )lIhle tcHches like rasta with chickpea or hean ( r I nul. That' \ eI) urnm In, a wally . W I'
vv It t tned to
hI , hac ala r air od, I \\ hlpred With pl)tatoe , the way the Fren h d Rut 10 dll hilled md heed It pclper-thm, I , nd r. it[ Hth 1 he t lad md heer \ lOaigrette. Beet are 11th th the baccala. u 11 h red til lind 10 Emtlia-Romagna, "hilI..' traeI I (h rhl I p ut IOto hee _ The ea urchm th It It n 10 well a what' local and • orm II
pn tm tr m
10
r \1."0,''''''':
hlO
I
COllSIO
t
the fl h m t c mmon r red pper The Ide was to p Ir th t With SPI(:Y.• rd frul r J t that th 're preserved 10 mustaro and th m tard £nut re W lance With the bran t
y . . . . . ,. . .
h were stuffed ltk
1m the
,wet the dish a sort of re~al ~ouch., ~is dish keeps to our theme of
":e whole us~ thoee
pe
animal, because In hIgh CUISine a lot of the time we tend to lower-caste cuts, which actually have a lot of flavor. For the d' _ did a classic rabbit jus with port and !oie gras melted in at the end. sauce. served it with some fried polenta. I tfUnk priest's typically served in Italy right Lent. They're litde pastry dough tied In the form of a knot or a noose before fried. The Italians call them "priest's stranglers" because typically in Italy, and urch is known to eat very well, so there's always a bit of a sarcasm and the ch coward the fact that people of the cloth are supposedly living a life resenanen'existenee, and yet they're known as having the best meals and the ci hU:";rau,d palates. In Italy, there are a number of dishes like that ~ • san;IIItically to the Oturch. We warated to pair the pastry with a which and rich flOzen mousse, which serves as something to dip the hot fried intO- I believe we served it with a little blackberry sauce. VIe did a work on this menu, preparing it for more than 100 guests. But they told US that it was one " the better Ouaine dinners that they'd had.
~
::::Y
strangle~e,
Ioc:"
La Coat,&ie de Ia
a..i. des R6tiueun
Bamia. de Bolton February 5, 1995
•••
o 7d . . Mra,uw ~ in RoeI,_ BteGd
III 8 lUI, -r.. Vi&M MbiI,· Marsala Supewriot-!
••
-.'_)MA_ 1992
a.99J.'
S
. painter
cue 0 well known for their
llOlC
eristiC ,tyles that e,'en the occasion-
(harae r
..eum-goer can iJentify a Picasso or a aI tu ll.
•
en .-
Mondrian. imilarly, certain writers, such as the poet e.e. cummings or the novelist John
=
Irving. have unique style which dl tingui-h their writing from that of other writer. But
do chef have recogni:able 19nature t 'le
of their own? MIt would
ten food crm
be imere ting
to
hlmd 01 i
and a k them to tel te the
cl ten leadmg chef: t
1
ee it the'
idermfv the chef." y Daniel BouluJ. I
the
c uld? "Ye . I
c:
•
think so, if th e dishes were ones they'd tasted before," he says. "The CfltlCS would have to know the traditional dish es of th e chefs." Boulud cites as examples his own dishes of scallops, pea soup, anu tuna tartare with radish and curry as ones that would likely be recognIzable to experienced criticS as his and his alone. "And they'd know Jean-Georges Vongerichten's shrimp in carrot juice at Jo jo, or Gray Kunz's braised short nbs at Lespinasse. In order to recognize the dish , it would h ave to be a very dIstinct dish-not a complex dish with a lot of fried stuff on top. Sometimes the most memorable dishes are the simplest. "I believe you can recognize the subtle nuances in other chefs' COoking. Some cook with more acidity, others with more saltiness, and others with more sweetness. You get to know these styles after a while," says Boulud. Jasper White also belIeves that cntics could pass the test. "But I think you'd have to let themee the dishes, because I thmk the look of the plate has somethmg to do with rer onal style as well," he says. "In my own per onal style. I like food to ta~te great, and I like textures. The entire focus is nn ta~te and textures, not on looks. The look that I want happens naturally. I don't want fooJ to look artihciall . beautlful; I want It to look like it tastes good. That'., my pomt of view. Ho\\ loe' It look ltke it tastes good? It has little 'peck ' of repper and h rped herb 1< nd kinLI of ,I rustic st') Ie to it. It's ,omethmg rh t I k like the \\ holl f, U' \\ a In Ikmg s Hnething that taste, real-
Iv good.
I
What Distinguishes a Chef's Style?
Thr ugh the myriad dcu,lOn .I chef
mak '. mcluJm th related t the c( mr Itt n of tla\fH~ and dl he~ and menu a per n 1 p) Ie e .. oh e • reflectmg I chef' particular romt of VICW. My c s ne S not nte ect a t 1 rk Mill r dl tillgUI he between two promlore so sat sty ng em a s nent h >1 He \, "J 1I t a th re ar \\, flter \\ ho ess u e w rd \ cry cr 1tl\ I~ nd re rna ter of lanes U ee. nd ther \\,Tlt r \\'h are hetter at tellLO 1 t DJnMlIlns fie , I thmk there re hef who are rna ter of th Ian uage f fla\ r nd ther chef: \\, ho c n tell 're t t fie . "I \\, )Old y that the te hmcal pe pie. th n \\, h) tm e ~ r dr mati ,are rnetlme the one who under land the\\' r an d the u f the w r Th c h e f w h t h 10k hout m nu and Irf) m ItI n re m re mtere ted 10 the lOt rpl y betw n the \\, r th erall feelm f t f) r. th r th n IU t th t) h nd th r ul h r u f rm t I nd m nm t m n I
"C('rt.11!1 chef, h,we a "Ie' kremiah [Tower]. e H" (\ ' . r [\Xlater~). Joachim .1, IILI' . ~ I -hal) Charlie Trotter["pIL' _ - " II have a lot at personal [hey c 1 . " their tood. Sometlmes a ,(ye I In c"I11.' ( \\'ho has a lot of style IS seen " m')re unportant chef. as a ' L [,eca u"-e he does dishes that have a t1 air. Per~onallv,. I would rather food. He eat RI'ck Bayless's . understands and can interpret the culture, in a way, through the technique-and he also creates something in his own right. Rick creates Mexican meals, and hl~ restaurant is a reflecnon of Mexican hospitality and the way he thl!1ks about life-his artwork is in the room. He represents to me an mtegnty in food." As for Bayless, he agrees that a chef's cUisine tastes of more than its raw IOgredients. "Fla\'or, commltment--customer ta~te all of thi~ in the food," says Barless. "They're tasting the fact the t I pent year- 10 Mexico learning from really great cooL how to do all of rhi', and that I Web ahle to pull it tOgether mto rhe C
hIS
own
cUisine) are a re,ult f rhelr hve'," expl,lln' Cary md,vldualJty Danko. "And It'.; imponanr fm che to be han t WIth -tdo ... 3rd ~ gnor themsel\'e~.lf you're h 'ne~t \\ ith your elf, there will be reW, led to you a pilth in hfe, and cooklO~ happen, to b my mantfe ration of rhb ltfe. I de,crihe a ryramlJ that repre ent, the heare, mmd. an~l hand of cooktn~. The heart need, to be the ba)e emotion-then you need the mmd to cancel\ e the JI"h anti the hand to execute it. It\ that p)T3mlJ that I try to reflect m my food. and my Coukmg i a dIrect r(,~ltlt oi m~ life. "That' why It' '0 critical for che , to tTavei , nJ tu ,tud) hiswry, art, and culture," ay [}emko. "The re~ult i rhi Journey IS ,ometlmC S the le",1n that hfe i really 0 unple, and that 'Ilnple rhm~'-\O co\)km~. 'Imple tho vors--can be vcry rewardmg " Gra) 'un! ,lgree . He en"ourar:e chd ro un 1 r,rand theIr 0\\ n per· nal "food c.onte t" "HO\\ ')ou\ e been e.ltll1r: ,[ home all y ur !tIe Will ::aunt y U In V )ur lIfe ,chef," he 1\ '. "r u'll h,1\·<: Ima~e and (eehn!! ullt tn trom 11 ur experlenc.e ." 1
C harlie Palmer says he tells his young cooks to concentrate on wh~t £ I d what they know when they cook. "I tell them not to J'ust ,I tI1.ey lee an , , ' ,U{j a , f what I'm doing or Mark MIller s do mg or anyone else IS dOing" h versLOn 0 ' e says. "I tell them, It's got to be you. It can't be me." , "Developing a personal style h as to do wIth developmg a point of view," Jasper White explains. "I think it takes years todevelop that. And it never really stays quite the same . But I thmk at a certam pom t you know what it IS and you become yourself." "There are many different ways to do things ," Danko says. "You need to go out and see everybody's style, and then look inside yourself and ask, 'What feels and wor ks best £lor me.7'" Because chefs' cuisines are a direct result of their experi. ences, their use of certain ingredients or offering of particular dishes can often be traced back to ~pecific culinary influences. After opening her fir t restaurant with partner Susan Feniger, Mary Sue Milltken admit" "For a few months, we basically just copied things that we'd done before that we'Ll liked the most. Mostly, they were the more peasanty, country.,tyle JI he ." FeOiger Lkk "When we first opened, we were dning
Influences on Chefs' Styles
Mark Miller on the Influence of Richard Olney When we talk ahour my OWIl hCI!!htent-d c,)n I u ne ,thl;: e\ ent or people or chef that have been mfluence in my hfe-It' pe,)ple ltke RI h rd Olne,. He I not cl chef; he i basically a cook. He's a pamter. And hb knl)wleclge of CUI'lOe I unl aralleled, e\'t;~n 10 France. He is respected as the mo t knowl· edgeable per I n in ooJ and WIO prub bl) 10 the Eng!! h or Fren h language today. Whenever you men· tlon Richard Olney 10 th~H mJe, he' revered nJ he' re pected- nd thl i amazmg, because hes Amencan and come, trom 10\\a! Here' a pl:rson \\ ho IOt1uenced J me Beard. He".1 probahly one of the greate t Influences Altce Water, m) eli, Jeremiah To"cr. enallll) The French Menu Cookbook but more Importan SImple French Cooking \\hen It c me ut, really did re\olu[\onlze CalifornIa CUI me From Elizllldl Da\ld through Richard Olne} thr ugh A"ce Water , ~ou can see there' a direct dellCelldenct phil ph).
The French Menu Cookbook-I thlllk we cooked everythmg m that book at (lj.~ ft.~',~ )OU kno" "hat' Thc publIc "ked e\cq 109 Ie dl h, whether It w the kI The f, d It elf reflect a certam plflted ment Itt It the hoiftcstY nted It" a c mm L ut d the 19605, when people _nrl'td "n "
nJ their wn lxxlie and their wn n
ron!men
,t (lmtlt Qt duck, pot-au-fell, lamb stews-all that kind 0 f stu. ff Th at C' tluenced a lot by rhe restaurant where we met [Le Perroquet tn , ' 111 l \\ ... .. ChIC,l~c1J" ' , \\'hile Hubert Keller can ImmedIately point to two dishes he learned to serve to this day (an onion t art, an d to hI~', t'I'r't J,)b which he cont111ues " . ' as tenine with "toasted bnoche), he belIeves that young chefs sh ou ld jiJ1C gr n't \\'a,'re their time 111 top restaurant kitchens trying to get the resta urant 's , . "It's more important to understand their message ' thel'r ph'lI osorecIl'e;. hI'," he say,· "You want to try to understand the underlying concept and r , '-ation that makes the restaurant successfuL Because if it's successful ) oraan1.. rh:re's somethmg behind it-and It's not likely to be simply a recipe for fish ~ l. .......lU lL ,
sauce. " Keller crechts his time cooking at L'Auberge de I'Ill in France as improvin" his techmque and teaching him the details of execution. "And the time I 5 :nt in the south of France with [French chefs Roger] Verge and Dacquesl r , Alsaee, it folMaXImIn was a rea I eye-opener, " he says. "H' aV111g grown up 111 lowed me more, and I was more receptive to It. In the south of France, we cooked WIth o\t\'e oil and basil, which we'd never used at L'Auberge." (JoachIm SplIChal IS another Maxlmm alumnus who CUlsme has the image of he who made it.
cites the French chef as the _ingle per m who' had the
-Charles Barner
Hi food ha, uch an 111ten it) nd u h a ImpltCity. 111e perfection of it is unparalleled. The meals I've had at Richard' hOll e were meal that are memorahle f ecau,e YllU cnuld not maximize the taste or the dIsh
fr m Altee and Jeremiah to Call~ rnid Plz:a Kitchen. WIth RI hard, the ripple at hi mfluen eon even'one from leadmg chef to bread baker to W111; t ry f r. Th e pe pIe re at the top cf their c. reer • and then underneath It all. there lit. And that' RIChard Oloe,.
most mfluence on hb style. "H.e w,,, Very Mediterranean m his use of uitve oil lInd fresh h erbs," Splich al remember .) O penmg the re taurant Cui tnt dt Solei! m Brazil for Roger VergE, while serving to expand his cUisine in n\!\V directions, was , Keller says, a little Itke cooking m the south of France . "Again we were cooking with olive Oil, garhc' omons, and tomatoes," Keller recall ' "And cilantro, which we used there, had never been used m an y of the French three-stars. I found myse lf PUtting coconut into fish stew, and u 109 Cor iander. Ju~t tastmg all the local Ji,hes, plu, a cla" 1 wllk in Bra:ili:1I1 cuisme while
,.
,
hving there, wa a real edUCatllm of 01) eye ,1Od pabte." Rick Bayle, recall, that he taught co kmg da~,es in his early twenties Junng graduate, hool at the Unlver Ity 0 , 1lchlgan. "~1y whole \\" Ir\J wal ac.1demlc,
me
ad\lce \\Ith me \\ hen I \\ ent, " I t at tim , I e th 10 Ill) f lIow chet \\ hen they travel to 1exI o--e pe lalh the ne \\ h ) \ nt to Ie m I little bIt d~( ut 11cXIC nih\ onng and ) rth to 10 rpor.lte lOt their \\ n \ e IOn f \\ hate\ er CUI tOe [he\ 're \ rkm 10, r th Ir )\\ n CUI me- nd the) gt) with [h Ir mind all full 01 10 rm Itl n, nJ th 're I km. ~ ran} (hm • that the\ l: n kmd I lip 10 bet\\een the u k 0 m~ rm HI nth t th ) alread) ha\l~. trel\u nth I thmk th t th \ ml II 0 the bl~ tuff, th re II ood ruff, \\ h n the dv th t. . "There \\ere a number 01 time th t I \\a tra\elmg through. 1 I~
domg re earch f r our fIr t book th It I \\()uld JU ( top be I \\ I JU t httm • e\ e f}t h In mto m~ f ramc\\ork I \\oulJ ' under tand nqhln 1 g alx ut \\ h at thl pc n I reall) dolO t 1\\ l[ch. nd I'm JU t g )lng tI (a ( and I'm In to wnt then I'm • In t) m Ie thl dl h, JU t thl w fl ure ut \\h th per n \\
d )In
J(
th thin t
rm
use I r (11t:eJ th [ to Ol) I1 'I J n't • But 1m) t It II
J
"0
m uO(l11 t:1'1
r
' \\"lS the way Bayless managed to learn so much about M' eXlcan CUI-, rl11' < "rhe real cuisine of Mexico is not a cuisine of restaurants and chefs" ' ' 0 f th e women who have b , . B. ·Iess, "I t 's rea II y t h e CUISine ,'Ineue' ' t h' e <1} een In Jrg t' r centuries doing this stuff. There's a name for them-the' k'tch , y re caIIed en 0 I major .' de'J, and they re the holders of the whole tradition ' Unfo rt unate Iy, [he , 'h e male chefs, when they go Into that role in the hotels go 'I any 0 f th ' n WIt III ,J that if they cook the cuisine of the majordes they're cookl' "I his attltUU e , n g glr [ d' S they want to show that they know what 'real' cuisine is all ab t foo, 0 au . unfortunately, I think that they generally miss the mark, because they're not 'II' to onen their eyes and say, 'This is it-this is what tastes good this is \1'1 mg t ' . should be, I understand what the cuisine is all about and I'm going what It , " , k with it instead of trymg to somehow dommate the scene.' ro"m"Similarly, I like [French] CUlsme ." bourgeozse much better than I do most of the haure cuisine, In fact, when I eat haute cuisine that is really satisfying to me in France, I always think that it tastes very much like good home cook, It satisfies in that same way," Bayless says. mg·
How Have Their Cuisines Evolved?
Bayless describes his current food as being
"much more confident" than the food he cooked when he first opened Frontera Grill. "Now I'm much more willing to really listen to my own heart and do what I know 15 nght. ThiS is in spite of the fact that With every issue of Art Culmaire I get, I go into. ome immediate panic or derre~"ion because I can't cook food that looks like that. I Llsu,tlly can come out of it very quickly and say, 'You km)w, my fOcKl IS the food that really ati"ftes me.' And I'm thankful that other people react to It ,1ml can relate to it and seem to really Itke it, too-.. . . that it doesn't have tn be all that fancy, fussy stuff to be good. "I think the tnmg flavl1r profile elf, Jih makes it satisfying from the fim bite tll the last. In ~ lexican tll(lLI, it \ much mure c)f a homogeneity of flavor; you're looking for thl~ rlmnd, nch tlavor [hat :-peaks of one thing, and it' the name of that dish. whatever it \\ ,luld ~e. I think when you eat one of our di,he' from t-eginntng to end now. you ",til notice thelt all of the components on the rlate are m harmom, that we\'e got the right accompantments, the rtght g3rnt~ht.' • that e\'erything ]u ... t ,eem~ rh~ht ahout it. That has always been purred on by my cunfidence in the ti1Ct that when you get everything taken 3way from a cit' h anLI ,nil have .I perfect dish-then it's fight," says Bayle . "I"t not d matter ot how much Cdn \'l)Ll put on, Lput h ow Glue h ca n ~ou take I\\a)' from It that h the 4 ue ,ulln YOU should always ask." • orman Van Aken de,cribe hi' 0\\ n proce's of e\"oluno n a<; a chef: "I nl JtJ .... hat I w told I \\.1' ,uppo eel to d,).l a chef, unnl there was a ce:t m Itttle rart uf me that aid,' '0 \\ a~ am I g LOg 111 do that!' That \\,,1, 197 I, 295
n
a
We cont nue lettmg the mgredients speak for t emse ves-and contmue fighting our cooks and chefs not to try to complicate them
__ emlah
Tower
and I'd been cooking since 1971 . Then I neeued .1 t educate myself. So the biggest change has b () . een th process 0 f se If-e d ucatlon and growing up and I e so much more about food." earntng
Even A lice Waters admits th at wh en she first opened Chez P . . " a n ~l 197 1, "I didn't know an ything about seasonaltty. I really thought th n e season for green beans lasted from the spring to the fall ! But there's a mom ent for those, and everything else-and you have to catch it. And you have t " ". " " 0 reSiSt using those Ingredtents at other times of the year. Waters believes, "We've uncovered a whole range of ingredl"ents, a whole range of tastes, that we didn't know an ything about twenty-ft""e , years ago. That's significant. I think we were ort of working with the prtmary col. ors when we opened. We had a little fennel-something so exotic as that, at
Mark Miller on the Importance of Pushing People a} the} 're pu hlng the envelope, but I don't really thmk they are. I see u turning wa from food and becoming more selective about what we eat and wh we eat It and wh n we eat It and with whom we eat it. And oun ch f r n't pu hlng th Ir own palate pa t the point of where
me 'r
ut m t1 Iw r If ch f re d In en uhf, r themselve to actually undert n what h uld be dolO f, r the . Or do they alway go to the n w h t r taur nt thmlun that they h uld create the new hot re taur"dnt, r th new h t d h Or th JU t w nt to be 10 Art Culi7U1lre? Is t 1r nl 1 If th are their r I models, If that' what they want
m}
mm t
mg m America
d
chefs are
Pan Thanksglvina
place I
toeerhcr. I
II on that road today. But t Ch the ide and do bl dmners and cookmg
than
turkey an the fi
HI
~
enq~ms and put them California. I would
And we rut nastur[ 1 ,[edible flll\\'eni] in a salad, [lul11' ,. , ' 'l[ \\',1" exotiC, But no\\ we lIld [ I1< ,J f WI'Id 'en[een kmus 0 hJ,'e ,e' 'I 1olll', and an equal nUlTInlU' lrl ' heirloom tomatoes, and ber 0 t , , that I could never have [urIlI\,' , ed the shapes and colors illlag tn , me for beets, And, of 0, f 5J 'lll the potatoes-russet (Our,e, ' and ones r, roes o tred a ,were as much as I knew about potatoes back th en, N ow, wlth yellow fms and ruby crescents and fingerlings ' It's J' us t fantastlc ' \I'e ell 1 lk the pOSSibilitieS, To ha\'e watercress back then was exotic, and now we hav~ upting cress and ancho cress and ,tiny little watercress-a whole world of ta''te-"' I think at Che: Pai1ls::,e we ve learned a lot of things about pu tt'mg together a menu, but even more in terms of ingredients," Gary Danko believes his food at The Ritz-Carlton Dining Room (San FrancisCO) was much different from the fooJ he served prior to that at Chateau Souverain in Napa Valley, "And my next restaurant Will again ret1ect a different ,tyle of food," he qy , "A lot of the principles and technique, Will 'tal', ~uch a~ hO\\ I make my ,tocks or bh fumes. But sav mv next knchen has fifty burner. and i" a ~ 1en:euec-Ben: of kttchen~-Itke Gray Kun: has~-then my ,tyle uf cookmg b goin~ to change becall e I'm 1I1 a different Ie
>
tIln~,
<
.
ennwnment .
"Say, tor example, I left an Franci co .mel moved
to
1
'e\\ York. There
would be an additional change a" I went intO d new cit) anJ adopteJ to what the ,{'ecific~ are-'er\'lng dll1ner I.Her, lookm~ at different pmdllce, .-\lthough {'eople ',1\' we ha\'e better pwduce m Cahfornta. I think. 'ew York ha, a whole n~\\' lea!!ue 0 pw\.!u e ~ecau e It ha- Europe a~ it~ market and uite Cahfornl3 ha- A,ia. Very little ire h rrodll\..t~ cumes in from A'la--t.l irankl), Cah~ mid I_ not gom!.! to It:t < n~ citrll" in from any part of the worIJ-\\ herea I e\\ York gL'[- oran!!\: frmu Spam or clementln~' anJ that kmd of thm:!. nJ I thmk the ft,h and the ,elecnon of fi-h 1 better m . 'ew
York :01'.1 ha\'e a very different m.ukd ba ket," ~a" Danko. "It\ E\0 I"In'.:! a ache o\er [he Cl)Ur e 0 a ar~er h a, It' c haII enge ..
ne\er been In e.1 ) proce,"" ,,1\ Patrick l)' nnd\. "You're continually frll~ trated \\Ith wantln.! [0 be more mVt:ntive and more creali\''; and have more Ide than \OU J . And \llU hlve lit) penod-, tOO, when yuu feel you're in ,\ lern"'le rut. Wh t [' ve 1 arneJ . d h J >nllu"h I that after \ u 12 t e rut t!ep t: ~. at the r nt .... her \ JU t ee I \\ here h ' no \\ .\) l tit, e\.e.,- "uu )u-r ere' , - kinJ of keer
n
nJ th n
U
nd
tip
e 'plodm~
Ollll)t It."
297
c
S
' h e"en the most seasoned chefs keep pushtnl:: them I . ". eves. Th at s w Y • .I enu we tn, a new technique, says Lydia hire. In l'lred l "\X'lt 1 every m , .1 . ' . ('~ · hefs like Jean-Louis Pall adm , hire and her chef ' 11 BL other Iead mg c . • Ina, 'e prepared many speCialty foods from scratch. "We'v Susan Regis, h a\ . ". e an· beef and made our own proSC IUttO::' , Shire reports With . d , . l'rt'J·e dfie our own "And I recently made a wonderful cot~chmo sausage ,~v lth a recipe 1 got froll) Lidia Bastianich of Felidia re tau rant m Manhattan , "If you stand still, it becomes boring," agrees Joachim Splichal. "And we are not factory workers-we are artists."
The Chef as Owne busme~ , It can he difficult
For culmar)' artl t~ whme pasion for c ooktn~ b greater than t~elf passion for runntng a
balance the t\\"l. "It you're a chef without ~ our own husme ,5, then you can concentrate m\)fC on the cooking , But If you have your own re~taur(lI1t, then ,·ou have to be more of .l C lllaborator," say~ Daniel Boulud. "I won't let m) bu'me~ or my co km~ go entirely into () ther~' han,b, I have a lot of pe pie worklll ' wnh me, but I .lIn the epicenter of ,Ill of it." ann n Van Aken POlllt ut the Itfferencc, in his stylem e becom109 a chef· "ner, op d t r"lll d the hef f omeone el,c' re t,mr,lI1r. ". mu h hI r re t Unlnt. [At A Mana). I cooked )metime ut cl n f lpe; It haJ a tran 1 hold on me be au c I \\ n't the o\\ner nd I " ) mu\:h t ) be orne the owner of the re taurant. There \\ere urn \\h n It \\ mor ed ,I 'U . Wherea now, It' ltke ~tng m m) o"n h m , nJ I cd mu h m re m~mahle WIth my fexxl It' more b Ian ed, l\ er 1I When u're n t the wn r, ou're gOIng to take the opportuntty reach he nJ \\ h re )U hould r h)m tim hecau you're hell-bent on fmdm out tI all that ou nt t fmd out tn the creattve proc the "'ner, th re enatn rt c Imn th t com tn that allows t feel m lr bal nced about everythm ," Van Aken. RI k Sa I found that the p ures r tauranr own· ershlp tnltlall had an Wlden•• able tnflu nc on h food "When you put your entue • tnp and muemtnt
money
tl)
" "When I opened, I wasn't quite sure where
,ell"
B'l\' Ie'"
ng to ha\'e to end up for financial reasons , '
lI'ere gO! .
A chef S ' CUISine sWings on h t G ·the dolo Ih " W a ray Kunz calls n e I faclor "GeW . nght is wh t ' , ng every detail a gives CUIsine its g I " says Kunz 'Olh ' ,. rea ness, ' erwlse, II s Just good"
\I'e h I "IS very much commItted to trusting my h lUg \\, . ,1 It l ,J instincts about what good food really is. I ' 1 gut an c ' ,1\' I I "frer we were open lor SIX or eight months I relaxed int h'k t1ar " ' omyown (Ill d I knew that ir was something that people could appreciate." (yle an r aspects 0 f ace h f'S cUlsme " sOh may Iik e Iy change over tim e. Jeanr e " 11gerichten clearly moved consciously toward a less formal " Georges vO , CUlsme t his hotel kItchen at the Lafayette to open his own French b' f II,hen he Ie . ' . Istro, '0 "In the beginnmg, the menu was a lot lIke It was at Lafayette, incorpoJOJ' , etables juices. It was a lower-key restaurant, but the same food W rating \ e g . . e h d rhe same cooks, the same walters, but at a more casual price and atmos3 re," he says. "But five years later, the menu IS totally different. There are h pe . ' d'lents-m ' some cases only threetural flavors, an d far Clel\er mgre more na ,., . . ' e" Vongerichten descnbes JO)O s cUIsine today as "VerT loose We on a r lat . ., . might serve something one way one day, and it might be as much as ten per-
cent off the next day, " Still, Vongerichten admit~ that he misses the style of cookim~ demanded of a high-end restaurant. "I miss the rrecisene~, of things," he says. "At a high-end restaurant, the customers expect even more. And the more pressure you have, the hetter the recipe,." Vnngerichten announced plans to return to [hIS style of CUIsine with hl~ next re tau rant, scheduled to open In Manhattan's Lincoln Center area. Another one of hi, g()al, I hlnfllr1g b. ck '!fand erYlce. "LIke the
19305," he says. "When you're In the kitchen, ,ou have all the e great .,melb, but the customer doe,n't. I want the ell tamer to he dble to hedr the ~1::le, to see the fooJ as It \', cut into." He creJIt' <1' m plratlon a dinner at Tatllevent in Paris, to which hi, parent took hlln f( Ir hi' el~hteenth birthJa). "It was rery sen'ual," he rememl>ers. "Everyone wa 0 excited before a dl,h drfl\·eJ.
I thmk the appetite develop' more \\ hen, ou eat thl w"a)." VongenLhten ay' he plan, to cr'\'e hal the dhhe~ table, ide at hb next re taurant. "If we have a luhter aLld n the menu, a tech11lcal cook wtll cook the lobster, l>Ul It Will be Cut dt the table and to ed With 'pinach," he says. "AnJ then the people at the next tahl \\ til -.ce the lob ter, or the Juck be/lng carved. I'm not talkmg ahout h.W\11g t1ambe or putting on .how:'>. We're )U~t gom~ to hnng aroma~ hack intO the ,!tntng ro m anJ have people rartlClpate rna re m t he ·tOO\.l1 expenence. . " , bJla hire de cnbe Blba a .m ede tI Amencan re raurant "where \\e re free t ) do an} thing we \\ \11t," he. ,"Plgnoh, on the other hand, It itd\t n re t IUram, penod. And \\ e d )Oft ba,rarJl:e or Amencant:e. J n t e t pa ta fir t cour e, 0 W don't ofter I t . one.
t
.
A mericans are used to hav ing all. appetize r und all. entree, but Italians tat three :, maller courses: antipasto , then risotto or pas ta, then a sm
Pallidm. "I • 'onn m
n \\dm..!
J
3}",
U
em, I'm tr}tng to he a~ simple as p(lssihie,"
n'l Itk to put more lh, n three elements on ,I plate." III ken gre . "E\ I') )eaT, I know [hat it'~ going to ~e a
h, Lk md fmull1g ()ut what' es~el1tial," Irma} be Impler, or \\ h It \\ e feel to be [Tuer. And [h,lt's [he lIlt!-
further tnprmg WIV he
It."
nd peclmg
m. te goal."
Global Cuisine
CUI me I con t
3\ ailabl!'t)
If
J
int1uence : customer demanJ , the
pi di mtegratmg," oh rv
mgredlent. chef' expenmentatlon, even meJla
"Unt: rtunatcl}, the c )kmg of a lot of ountne
I
Altce Water. "It' hard to get thl e really Imple and perfeet dl he
3(1)ffi
E\erybody' embr Idenng all kmd (f thmg II over." Michael R mano ha observed that all the MlChelm three- taT r t rant seem to ha\e bee( me \ery Fr n h ven tho 10 Italy "It' prlltl,llllY all p rt f th dnve f, r Mlch 1m ta 'he peculate J hann Kille n n {tee that 'the m re IMI helm) t r t ur nt h MI hellO h UI m Fr n hlfled It I It' m fit nd Jud ev urant accolrdtn I
difficult to find food th ' of Italian food has be at s pure. A lot .h come muddled Wlt no dear flavors , n 0 clOCUS. There' are too many acrobatics too h . . h ,muc Jumpmg t rough hoops." Rick Bayless says he "b' nst1es" at the new-style cuisine in M . "Th eXlCO . . er~ are ~ few people who are doing a fme Job wlth it. But most of them are hotel-trained chefs, and when they start doing this modem version of L __'" it comes out looking like bad nOlltleUe cuisine-there's !ittl ~~~ e . bias cI stUff all over the plate. And sometimes they try to tone it down. onY theY do that, I feel like they're taking out the guts of the dish and all ~ ldt trith is a kind of hollow shell," he say . ~ "Mexican CUISine is a robust and very elegant cuisine, but it' elegant in . silllf'licitYo itS naturalness, its pontaneous feel. When you tan making a ~ with uteen garnishes and little things dropped around the plate, it' not ~.. It'I m' the point of Mexican food, in my book," says Bayless. '1bar'. why my food' much more immediate and much more traightfor.-. We work With big. bold trek . We don't put too much food on the pt.. ~ I 1 at IDtdfera ,th our ' abihty to really appreci• ., your palate can get confused really quickly with
w
th... noIIeI Danael
Boulud. "The French food. I have been learning about France to team. and when they IQPI1li1ticat.ed and refined enough to
nine herbs and tomato coulis. I'm proud of it, and people love It. AnJ I d"n't think there's an Italian who could make it as good ! "And I love risotto, and like to offer it to my customers. Risotto is won_ derful for providing a stage for th~ flavor of ingredients, wh ich can give m~ny dimensions to it. For example, I 11 serve a lobster n sotto made with lob,ter stock, or a squab risotto made with squab broth, or a sh ellfish risotto made with the juice and water of shellfish. I like to 'French-ize' my risotto. "One of the last risottoS I came up with was inspired by my vacation in the Pays Basque [near the border of Spain and France) last year: a seafood risotto with a puree of pasilla peppers and a saffron broth," says Boulud. "\ love this dish very much-it's like French Tex-Mex." Some chefs are well respected for their ability to merge a wide array of culinary ingredients and techmques. Lvdia Shire describes her cuisine as having both eclectic (involVIng a mixmg and matching of courses with varying influence,,) and fusion (representing a melding of the ingredients and/or techniques of twO or more regions) elements. She h astens to add, "But with re~traint~ I won't do thin gs just for shock value; there are certain things we'd never, e\'er do." he cite" a~ an example a fi,h dish served with couscous and wa'abi, wluchhe was once t, ken ab,\Ck to see on another restaurant's menu.
Norman Van Aken on New World Cuisine
' .,.' .
One of the wrche that I carry l one eh It we t Illuminate the type of cooking that ha nllt heenu well known yet in mo t of . 10rt h Ameri 1, \\, hlch I the regl mal CUI me of the Caribbean, Central Jnd outh Amenca, and the mother ~ ountne that affected the cUI me that were brought to those areas, such as Africa and to a lesser degree Fran e nd ltal~, of course 0 even though I might read ahout or taste a great di h m ew York made hy Gra~ Kunz ur meone hke that, I have to tell myself, "That' not my tor\. M~ _to~ i a regional to~ that need to echo the Immigrant pattern that are south Flonda." 0 that' a ver) Important fact r behmd why I cOOk what I'm gomg to cook. People a k if the e\\, World CUI me I c k means the arne thmg to me as It doe to other ch Well , I don't thmk rock and roll meant the me thang to Jerry Lee Lewl a It did to Elvi However, there' a certain reference that' hared, a parenthetical opportUnity to express a cerratn of probability. And I \\'elcome the fact that there are different deftnltlons that would be e paused by \an Oll people \\'ho \\- ould ay that they're practlt10ners of ew World CUISine I comed the term fusum CUISine a response the metdmg together of dISparate cutll\l alth u h I \\, a not much Initially talkang about tnarrymg French and Thai, for example. I mg alx ut marrymg rustiC CUlSme. With I and cu ine with I intc~ It~ That t me I what I desc when I But ery umbret And t\IAI)Il o...~
r", (j~"
Kun: :,a),s, "A , takin ' good" friend told me, 'What yo' u re d' Otng IS . edge oft ethmc cooking. I knew what he was t ' g [he rL1U~, rytng to say. I do see h b1 · , ' incorporating flavors and fragrances, but in a 11lpe It Jo , ' , very su t e way. , . 'uccessfully has a lot to do with finesse. You want to k Dcllng sO :, , ma e sure that xt I, still approachable and not go overboard an d sh oc k cus[he conte. [Om ero-r." keep cuisine f rom ' gOing " overboard ," Jean-Georges Yo ngenc 'h ten jO
, . there should be boundaries in food. "The 1990s should not b I believe,,, " e a me t'ng pot, " he asserts. Now everyone has ginger In their kitchen . I n twenty I I don't want to see 'universal cooking.' I think people should go back years, ' rJotS and keep tra d'mons , gOing. ' Dal11e ' I Bou Iud is from Lyons and [0 thelr l , " " . ,you . 'II find thtngs ltke tnpe and pork WIth lentils, whICh he grew up 'th can ,tl WI , on hiS menu. . . ." wdl ne\'er put star al11se In my choucroute. If someone else finds something new to do with cabbage, great. But it hurts me to see things on a menu like 'Thai Bouillabaisse.' They should call it a "Thai Fish Soup' instead of ruining something great." Norman Van Aken believes that It's important for chefs in various parts of [he world to honor thelf regional bounty. "As much as possible, they
to
VancoU\'er to New York to FlonJa, becau e of chef~ tclkmg dl~parate cuismes and welding them
together in hopefully a harmnmoll' we ldmg. New Wllrld cui5ine wa~ the term thelt I came lip with to de cnbe what takes place in southeastern Florida and to a degree will hegm t tclh piale 111 other plelce, ,I, well. much the same way as the Southwestern food movement t()ok .mJ marned clas'lcal technique an,l methodology WIth Mexican produce and, e\'entually, Mexican methoJulog\ or pre-Columhtan Il1Lltan methudlliogy. With us here in iouth Florida, the varil)u~ mtluence are Latll10 ro < great degree, with all the different paWLS of the Canhhean offering all thee \\ ild tWI t anJ rum'. If you go into a market or a lltrle gr ery rore or cl lIttle cafe, whether It' Jamaican or NIcaraguan or Argentinian or Cuban or Bohemian, }ou'll ee the ~lifterence m the cui~mes, It'll take a while w understand the Jifference~, but a )Oll pend more and more time ~ou'll bl?gm tl) lInderqand the nuances among them. Bemg from none of the e traditions, [ don't ha\'e .. ny clllegiance to a particular (ui~ine. It allow me the freedom to go in and \ bit n,1 put my own quilt together. . orne of my coworker' < re na([ve of the~e place;,; they respond to my experimentation by hetng SOrt of tanl d dh If I · h "How 1oe, ",'ur gr,1n,1e an appy and, metime a little .hy ahout It. '.ly to t em, L 1 ' m ther work h th' , h h ouoh of thl? ianguJge h' Wit I particular tuberr' or wh
03
should glorify and celebrate the cuisines of their regions, 10 that as We t from city to city, and suburb to suburb, and little hick town to little ~Vtl lelt town, that th ere StloIl IS a great reglona1 opportunlty. In a graduation speech Van Aken delivered at Johnson &. Walea University a few years ago, he says he told students, "Don't go back Virginia and cook New World cuisine. Don't go home to southern Calif: ~ and do that either. I think what you should do is go back and find out what your ttongest sense is of the people who are in that community at tha~ 0
0
0
"
~
point in time. "And I don't mean cook 'museum food,'" Van Aken says he emPUllL sized. "If you're in Dallas now, I think. you should embrace some Vietnam est flavors, becau.... there,s a suong V·Ietname5e community. But I hope that omer chefs ·U do what 1did in terms c1 reacting to where I live by reacting e they lave. lOat would be honoring tt-honoring the ttadition but ...".......~ dwOUllJa cnau and the IUllUI8l inclination we have III
1O.m
--Chefs' Styles Personified in Their Menus 'ous leading chefs around France created dinners honoring the centenary Vafl e birth of the renowned gastr~nome Cumonsky. Twelve examples were of th ed as reflecting the personalities of their creators as follows: claSS lfi
Femand Point: Classicism Cfulrles Barrier: Harmonious Simplicity FrCD1fois Bise: Tradition Revived
Paul Bocuse: Vitality and Generosity Alain Chapel: Supreme Inventiveness Michel GuiTard: Subtletie of Taste Paul Haeberlin: The Strength of Tradition Louis OwthieT: A Delight for the Eyes
Jacques Pic: A Spread of Independent Creation Raymond ThuiJier: Epicurean Delight Troisgros Brothers: Aavors Close to the Land Roger Vnxe: Exuberant Onginahty
the man who cared for the birds had a garden With herbs like garlic chive and wild onIOnS, and I truly believe It brought a lot of flavor to them." The partridges were killed and bled and hung with the guts in as well. Btcao. cJ all the DOUble he'd gone to making sure the partridges had flavor, Paimerdidn't to destroy their taste dunng the cooking proc . "I made aJIG faa the which finished With de Wznde and herbs that played on had been eating, and then, m the traditional '"'_ th the partridges' blood," says Palmer. The - ......ltedrare Ith the sauce, the fmely minced
tJ«e
cb8l\tClrel
and some caramelized turnips,
ord_1X ..:ull d ha e been too overpowenng,"
perfect." rechnoloIY m the United
DiODt DOlI'
to
ndant
e nd
Palmer adIIlliu.
tlJBt s not so much
squid, sham and'" change it into stull that Plople would c;ons;1Ir , .Ii".
Peal-
life.
better ones. hlrN able Are mere bedll _ ••-
George Germon and Johanne Killeen ALFORNO PT!Jt'idence. Rhode Island
Food'like . any other 'cultural phenomenon, is a living. thing. It naturally goes through a seamless, a\mOSt imperceptible evolutIOn. Perhaps there are more chOIces on our present menu-and the choices are co . tinually being refined and Simplified-but our basic philosophy has the same clarity of vision. Our al n is acute, aggre ively clean in taste, and our style is grounded in reality. It seems our signature is plaLtt€:rs, not and in celebratory moun~
c\ear~bo~~
ked in the Pink with Fresh Herbs, Cream, posta Ba nd Fife Cheeses a Bak'd with l'v1tlShrooms, Pancetta, Rapini, Pasco c Cream, and Fit'e Cheeses Tagliatelle uith ;\1ascarpone and Oven-Cured Pink-
Prosciutto Cotto Spaghetti tl'ith Tuscan Meat Ragu , Pumpkin and potato-FIlled Free-FonTI Lasagna wIth Black Olit'e Butter Rolled Mushroom Lasagna with Bechamel, Tomato, and Parmigzano
Grills, Roa,L, and BrJi~e~ For Ltttle Appetite
Small Plate of Roa ted Seasonal \'egetahl Pepper-Gnlled ChIcken Pm/lard u ith . 1rxed Greens, Shat't'd ParmlRIano, Caramel!~ed Onions, and SpICed Olzw Tuscan Veal Stett U1th Bwternllt • lashed Potatoe Tuscan Roasted au: age) and Grap s with t 1ashed Potatoes Maho"any Otic k Le!! U Hh RIce and • 1 dun Salad
GnU, Roa ~, and Bral e-
t
Gnlled and Roasted \
Entree tllCh lash d
e&gIL
r At Forno Appeme-
POtatoes
(jnued ChICken Breast u Ith Wood-Roast d tuffln" and itxed (Heens G <. hICken Breast U1th (mUed Porwb Ito u. hr nd R ted Potat
Roasted 'k - Ie en on a Nest ofVermiee1ti with ' dHalf-Ch G M Ixe reeens Oven-Roasted Pork Tenderloin with Herbed Crust, Roasted Potatoes, and Pear Mostarda Pvot-Roo:ted Beef Fittet with Mashed Potatoes mtner s Steak Gritled IP D ' Veal Tenderloins with Grilted P 0 enta, an nppings, and Fennel-Infused Onion Clam Roast with (HOT!) Spicy Sausage, Endive, Tomato, and Mashed Potatoes Gritted Veal Chop with Gremolata-Mashed Potatoes and Pickled Onions Grilled Brine-Cured Pork Chops with Mashed Potatoes and Mixed Greens Rosemary-Infused Veal Spareribs with Aged Balsamic Vinegar and Roasted Garlic-Potato Cake Fresh Little Compton Tilefish in Aqua Pazza Fresh Little Compton Cod Roasted in a Caper ~lay()nnaise u'ith Roasted Potatoes
De ert~ (all, except fir~t two, made
to order)
Tirami~lI
Frc)h Fnut ulth Cannoh Cream Tartufu Gelato u'lth Baby Baci Oranrre and Fre h Fig Gelato Lemon Gra1Hta tllth Hazelnut Biscotti Coffee Granzta u ith WTiupped Cream Toasted Cocontll lee Cream Sandu'ich Grand CookIe Finale Fresh Plum Tart Fresh Blwcberry Tart Fwh Blackben)' Tart ' Black ~tlS ion Flf: and Blueberry Deep-Dish Pie Fre.h Blu beny e1rLltin Fre h Plum (,nlClll Fre h Black Ii SlOn FI" Gmnl1
Jo 'ce Goldl>tein SQUARE ONE San FranCISco, California ( 1984- 1996)
Smce the time quare One opened, ow a' deeper understanding of the trad ltlonal . . . . . our cuisine. came to sh. cui me . Rather than bemg slmphhed for Amencans, we tned to give them greater authentiCIty. Aho a ourktlls and our sense of orgam:atlon improved, we were able to take on a little bit more and have ~h plate'- re a little more complex. But I thmk the key really is that rather than giving customers a e ver IOn of the. iedlterranean, we gave them the long-hand-we really tried to give it to them a If were there. 'V.'e eliminated a lot of mternatlonal thing - and thmgs from other culture as people wanted know what kind of food we prepared. with the word "internatlonal" ternfying and bewilden ng them, not wanting to call It "Californla cUI"me." whatever the hell that b, we became more and Mediterranean and more and more true to the _ urce. That's m ' ·tory ... Tl1mght' Ollr laot night ... (July 13, 1 l)
Dail\" pecial la 15, 19 4
Fedebm U Ith Tuna, Omons, Caper and lit Fettucane aUa Genotese ulth pmach Pmen\l[ Lemon Rind, Golden Rat Ins. nd Cr am Gnlled Veal Chop U1th :11 crum and E lam ratm Pork Scalwpptne tilth 4ar ala \ m ar and Cr m sened u~th Red 'UI Chard and ( om Fmter ChIcken Fncas ee U Ith Meatballs hr and Thyme en-oed U Ith Rl e
lmonel Cake tilth (Janache and Rum Huttercrecml Pu P try trau-berry Tart Ulith iascarpone he n bet erved with Tegole ~ookle Pineapple lee Cream erved ulth Tegole Cookie
Daily Specials Weekend of May 17, 1996
ffron Rice u:ith Lobster, Prawns, Clams, Pae1/LJ-SaJ)' , ChIcken Chorizo, Arnchokes, Favas, Peppers, and TomatoeS , I Scaloppme ulth Mushrooms, Shallots, and \eaHa~elnHts, sen'ed WIt'h T1 ag/"zann! U:lt'hAsparagus, PrOS ClHtto , and Peas Roast Halibut u'irh an Armenian Sauce of Roasted Peppers, Roasted Onions, Basil, Allspice, and Cmen ne , send with Cracked \Vheat Pilaf, Grilled Eg;;piant, and Sauteed Spinach Greek Mixed Grill-Lamb In SOIH laki Marmade, send u,zth T -zatziki, Quail u ith Oregano, Thyme, GarlIc, and Lemon, VJTapped III Vine/earl's, arui Loukalllka (Pork at age lmh Marjoram, Corutncier, range:e [, AllspIce, and \X'ine) en cd ut!h Rlct' Pilaf tmh Eggplant, Tonwroc.l, and Pinen!l!s, Spanakopita, and ZUCChlru tllth Tomaroe and Dzlt
Grilled Fillet of Beef with Red-W'me- Gla ze d Sha [lots served with Potato ' and ' , and Ce/.e ry Roat G ratm, Green Beans with Chives Grilled Sonoma Squab in a Moroccan Marinade of Cumm, Cinnamon, Honey, and Sesame Seed, served u,tth Couscous with Raisins and Orange, and Carrots and Beets with Orange, Mint, and Ginger
Grilled Swordfish alla Puttanesca with Tomatoes, Capers, Olit'es, Garlic, Hot Pepper, and Basil, sen'ed u'ith Oven-Roasted Potatoes and Broccoli and Caulzf/oU'er Gratin Tagltarnu u'lth Asparagus, Mushrooms, Favas, and (1Tt~molllta (Lemon, Garlic, Parsley) Vegetanan Paella u'ith Artichokes, Favas, Green Beam, ZHcchinz, Peppers, and Tomatoes
-
--------
1996
First Course
Main Course
Hot Lobster Vich,ssoise
Eggplant-Crusted Maine Cod with Ba, Shriml>, Th:yme-Roasted Vegetables and Port-Wine Essence Pepper-Seared Salmon Fillet with Grain Mustard, Braised Asparagus, and Roasted Creamer Potatoes or Simpl, Grilled with Select Steamed Vegetables Sesame-Glazed Tuna Steak with Roasted Fennel, Braised Boo, Bok CIury, and Potato-Onion CGIce Wood-Grilled Maine Lobster with Fragrant Truf/le Oil, Tiny Green Beans, and &sil-Essenced Potato Puree Garlic-Crusted Chicken with Sfow..Roasted Artichoke, a Puree of Barlitto Beans, Tomaro Oil, and Fresh Rosemary Veal Medallions with Wild Mushroom CarmdIoni. Tomaro Coofit, and Essence of Fmh S. Cervena Venison Pepper Steak with MusmOOln Spaettle, Butternut Squash FIdn, and Caramelized Parsnip Braised Pheasant with ChantereDe Risoao. Rodser' Cipollini Onions, and Sauce ofXiNnet SLilt Grilled Dtu:k Escalope with PreKrwd fill. CriIt Leg "Beicnet" and Gm,er..Qaw.IIiQI,J .!,,;,:
with Melted Leeks and Potato Crisps open Ravioli of Srrwked Capon and Wild Mushrooms in Sweet Garlic-Infused Pan Broth Trio of Mullard Duck Preparations Foie Gras Roulade, Confit and Chicory, Smoked Duck Sausage Sea Scallop Sandwiches in Crisp Porato Crusts and Citrus Juices A Service of Petrossian Ossetra Caviar in the Traditional Fashion Salnd of Seasonal Lettuces and Herbs CitTUS-Dijon Vinaigrette Saoory Celery Root Flan and Vegetables II la Grecque EsJenCe of Sweet Garlic and Kalamata Olives Mar/cet Select O,SteTS Over Shaved lee with ShoUot Mignonette and Caraway Crisps Oak-Smolced Salmon with Vegetable-Citrus Salad
SmoIctd Salmon Mousse and Michael's SouTdough Toasts (or sen.oed naturally) Seared Fait Gras Escalope with Roosted Plums Wild Mldlaoum Cripe and Baby Aruguja
charcoaled FiIlr Micnon .... Pinor Nair, eo..rur, Poe-. l'UIIIIi,," Mortis, and Crisp p....
C luis Schlesinger THE EA:-.T COAST (JRILL C wnr.ncigc, \l,,,,achmctt'
I traye\ed to diverse places-from Mexico to Thailand-and found that 1 really liked a lot llf the ,1"pect~ ,~f the fo,~d. \Vhen I opened the East Coast Grill, I tried to come to an understanding of what thifl\:' ,,1\ these di\'erse foods had in common. When I look at my cooking, I think there are three major themes: 1) Mv love of h 'e fire-woad-burning stuff. The dynamic of going into the kitchen every day and cook-
ing with ,omethmg that is as uncontrollable as fire, as opposed to just going in and turning the oven on to 350 or 375, is a constant challenge to me. Roasting whole pigs, grilling fish, or trying to keer something from sticking-that dynamic IS ~o soulful and extends so much character into the food. 2) My other love as a cook that I de\'eloped while cookmg with )lInmy Burke at the Han'est [In Cambridge, MAliS discovering and learning abnut new things all the time-getting a new food In and learnmg about It and readmg about it. 3) The ,)ther aspect develored out of 111\ travel..; I' a deqre for J..:cply'f1at'orea food. \X1hat 1 ,tarted tn work out was that, for a lot of Jlfft.'rent red dn,. cui. ine, th,lt are cb..;er to the equatm are m,lre flavorful; they have deeper flavor' or c\earl.:f tllvor or u..;e ll1l1re ~rlce~. There are different ll1utatl\. n at the Ea t Co.l,r l~nll \'1: r ll' The Rille Room. The Grill i, mme traight-ahead eyuatonal cUI-ine-\\arm-\\c, h r UI me, {led together h their concentratlnn llt tla\,or--wlth a Itght barbe ue onent.HI m. The Blu R 111 h ! )mc \ t th,lt, hut WdS prubably grounJed more In !t\·c fire, anJ loukm!.! It It\\: fife, r m r)t1 erie to h It tonc to 111.'. nh tll ~mllkt:r'! 01' .1 LOrnmonallty among cUI-me.
Original Menu Item., cl (I: mber 1 5
SpICY Black B an mtp tt1th Satt a c
r
ram
and Scallions Stared Rau 'Irlom ulth Gmger and \Xa.sarn Green alad ulth Cold 1annaced egctablc Cold Gnlled Eggplant alaJ ulth (JI11 er and aUzan e ame \'malgrette
keuer d Gnlled f nkflsh uuh mlthfield Ham and ( mentlne R " h ,,'''''' P d 1i hnmp u th ( hl/X tie Ma'i and UIU<~1I. B ah1 ;nll.o>,i 1i u th (Jr (IuL auc.:
p,
u uh hTlln/J (lnd Monkfish 11 un Barb!: u d Pork [klrenh hrcdded. arch ( arulilla Pork BariJecHc Hlt.:kory, maked Duck ulth (;nlled PmeL pple and Tangy CllTI( ,Cilantro Ulaze (mlled Lamb With lin/led Vegetable and <.inlled u eet POU1CfJCS
<'"n
kl
6,Proof ChoCl late Cake Apple crudel MI 15 IPPI Mud ( ake Br ad Puddm ulth Pear Brand
~-----
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- -
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~~
February 1996
Coriander-Crusted Grilled Shrimp with Pineapple
Salsa and Lime
Fettuccine Pasta with Oven-Dried Tomato Sauce.
Fresh Herbs. and Asiago Cheese Blltrermilk-Fried Chicken Livers with Apple-Raisin chutneY. Spinach. and Warm Bacon Dressing Grilled Sausage from Hell and Cornbread Salad with Hell Sausage. Lava Soaked Pineapples. and LimeGuava Dressing Middle EasteTTI Sampler Plate with Grilled Eggplant. Raisin Couscous. OUves. Feta. Orange Cumin Dressing. and Grilled Pita House Green Salad Arugula Salad with Smoked Pears. Spiced Pecans.
and Srilron Cheese Ume and Chicken Soup with Com Tortillas
Grilled Salmon Fillet with White Grape-GarUc Sauce , Ume Tomato Rioja, and Spanish Rice Caribbean-Style Spit-Roasted Pork Loin with West Indies Beans and Rice. Jamaican Slaw. Grilled Fennel, and Mango Marmalade Grilled TIAM Steak with Pickled Ginger, Soy.
Wasabi. Liand Pan. and Jasmine Rice Cakes Grilled Skewered Leg of Lamb with Saba Ganoush. Roasted Red-Pepper-Cucumber Salad. Preserved Lemon, Pomegranate Dressing. and Grilled Pita Grilled Adobo-Rubbed Sirloin Steak with Pickled Com Relish. Tamarind Ketchup, and "Damn Good Fries" Spit-Roasted Herb and Lemon-Rubbed Chicken with Mashed Sweet Potatoes and Seared Kale
Sides
Apple-Raisin Chutney Spanish Rice "Damn Good Fries" Seared Kale Vegetarian Rice and Beans Grilled Banana Grilled Pineapple Pineapple Salsa
Fried Plantains with Banana-Guava Ketchup Cordiro Mashed Sweet Potatoes
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Selected Main Courses The Rattlesnake Club Spring, 1996
Capdlini (Thin Angel Hair Pasta~ with Tomatoes, Garlic, and Basil or wIth Sauteed Rock Shnmp Cratt'fish Risotto uith Roasted Red Pepper, Garlic, Su:eet Com, and Basil Collection of Vegetables and Grains Grilled or Steamed as a Mam Course Herb-Crusted ?v1ahi Mahi, Ot'en-Baked u'ith Fennel and Tomato, Saffron, and Balsamic Essence Freshu'ater Pickerel with Pinenut Crust, Lentils, and Tomato Sauce or Broiled with Fresh Herbs and
Striped Sea Bass Pan Seared with Oriental-Style Vegetables and Chile Mashed Potatoes Lobster and Mixed Grain Risotto-Barley, Arborio Rice, and Quinoa with Saffron, Basa, and Red Pepper Sauces Breast of Free-Range Chicken, Garlic-Mashed Potato, Crimini Mushrooms, and Roasted Pepper Herb Glace Medallions of Veal with Roasted Vegetables and Gorgonzola Polenta Black Angus Filet of Beef Grilled with a Rhubarb and Cipollm! Onion Compote, Red Wine Essence or Grilled with Garlic-Peppercorn Butter Rack of Lamb Roasted tvlth a White Bean, Asparagm, and Eggplant Ragout
Lemon Crab and Salmon Cake with Maine Crab SpnnR Roll, Yellow Pepper Cream, and SpIced Chtle 011 EscalDpe of Sterling Salmon CrisP)-\':'rapped In Potato Crust ttith SheTTl' Mustard Sallce and Potato Crisp)
(
V
/
r
I
d
r
3'7
liah Tower
Je
STARS and J.T.'> San FranCIscO . California
Caltfomia cuisine at its worst, .made by the people who'd imitate it. without understand In g It In ~';;0 _Cllled < ' , ' '
the first place, just got incredibly confusmg. At Stars, we ve always trled to fight agamst that "starch anU three \.egetables on every plate" mentality. There's certainly an instinct for chefs and cooks to want t () 'If) I that all the nme. At J.T.'s, since it's small and it's got my name on it, 1 can really do my vision of wha 1 like to do with food-which is to take the "with" off the menu. So, it will be lobster, braised lamb and black truffles. I don't say "with," "with," "with"-l've taken everything else off the plate. So it's a per-5 fect sauce, perfectly braised lamb shanks, some big slices of spring garlic, some black truffles-and that,> enough. I'm tired of seeing so many ingredients on the plate. That's where I came from in the first p\ace,
shan~
so I think I've come around full circle. Stars
July 1984
Specials of the Day First Course.
Texas Ham uith a Japanese E{!RPlant Salad Smoked Salmon with Gnlled Herb-Orl Bread Malpeque O)'sccr Sceu ULth Ancho hIli Butter awl Chenzl Puree Pasta uith Alaskan Blue Praum, Red B Its Tomatoes, Bmrl, and Garlrc Grilled almon t.lith \ 'egetable Brochette awl Ro emary MayonnaIse Frllet of Beef m Broch u rth a Hor eradl h. Mil card Tarragon Cream •
Salads and
Mixed Grct!n Salad with Vinaigrette and Tomatoes I hxed Green Salad tt'ith Blue Chec$e Vinaigrette (Inca Fe-Balboa Cafe (Jarden ~1ixed , alad tt'ith Ha~elntt!
011 (larhc o"p with
P 1 ta an I
Iced Oyster u1ch Pley Lam b au age ~Illetles of moked FI h uuh Bitler Greens alad I h Pro liard u~th Tomatoes. Cllancro. and Chl\:e BrIOChe U Ith Marroo, Lnb leT Sauce Poached (wruc and Chenil TUJI U Ith Ham LIL -r nau()15 J arra n and (haT
na
LlIJ'C
LeaH and Herb Proficcrules
Fl h
the \X hIm uf the Chef. rrict:~, Weacher, and FI hmg CnndW{)l1
ubJcct
(m II
to
nd 11 1I1 Com
ChI ken Appctt:er
l)UP
\lith
t.:
Tarragon. ,ream, Mu hr Jom . and
RadIcchIO Gnlled ueetm-eads \lIth Am hoke and a \"(Ild Mu hroom Butter Gnlled Aged eu York teak ulth Fne and a Tarrag m Colbert Butler Blanqueue f\ al ulth Summer \. e Ilble and Crlt"tfl h auce
J.T.'s Week of February 27-March 2, 1996
!-lors d'Oeuvre
Choice of Main Course B~d ~merican Snapper with Herb Vegetable Salad
Choice of First Course
Block rruflk Cusrard with Sunchcks Lirntswnt lettUCe with Ma,tag Blue Cheese and BrioChe Crouwns Warm Foie Gras Sandwich Osetra Caviar SenIice with Iced VodJca
Pnme Fillet of Beef with Duxelle Potatoes and Pecan-Herb Salad C~ Breast with Morels and Lobster Essence BraISed Lamb Shank with Fava Beans and Stwift .. Garlic Y"''6 Saddle of Venison with Truffled Celery Root and Cippolini Onions
Crab Ravioli with Block Truffles sceamed Mussels in a SheU{ish Tarragon Sauce Choice ofJ.T.'s Desserts
•
-
-
-----
Alice Wlters and Lindsey Shere CHEZ PANISSE Berkeley . Callfornw
Week of November 14,1971
Thursday Sunday
Hors d'Oeuvres Varies Steak au Poivre Salade Profiteroles
Hors d'Oeuvres Varies Daube d' Agneau Salade Lemon Mousse
Monday
Fnday
Hors d'Oeuvres Varies Manicotti and Meatballs Salade Biscuit Tortoni
Tartcleues aux Poissons Can-oe and Orang-e Soup RIS de \leaH or Swffed Lamb Salade Frozen Chuw/atc Marquis
Tuesday aturday
Hors d'Oeuvres Varies Pork Roast with Plums Salade Vanilla Bean Custard
Pate Matson Cream of \Vatercre.ls soup Puulet Valle d'Aug-e Salade Fruit
Wednesday
.
Hors d'Oew.:res Varies Lapin Saute Proven~al Salade Fruit and Cheeses
320
a l'Occitanienne
A la Carte
Dessert, Coffee, Estrresso, Steaks and Chops
y
A
r I
-Rick Bayless FRONTERA GRlLL and TOPOLOBAMPO Chicago. Illinois
INGREDIENT S:
1. Beans. In my cooking, that's kind of my meat. I live on them.
. d I Idn't Il','e without making tortillas, so I'd really need that. ne corn. cou D
.'3. Ancho chiles. Ancho has a deep sweetness to it. 7
4. Guajillo chiles. Guajillo has a really brIght spiciness and high acidity to it. 5. poblano chiles. Poblano is my fa\'orite of all the green chiles; it's got a trflemendous complexity of fla\'or, and I can turn it inside and out, doing e\'erything from using it as a
avoring to using it as a veg-
etable.
6. Greens. I like greens in just about any \\'ay, and if I chose something like chard, I could use it raw, braised, or mixed in with the corn or the beam and cooked that way.
7. Garlic. Garlic gives me a lot of different l1ptlOm fllr tlwor, whether It's raw or cooked or roasted. That is one of the things that i~ ab'oluteh' t'"entlal With the cht!e~, tll add a lot of depth. 8. Onions. I could do a\\'av With ol1lom bdore I coulJ ~arl!c, but I \\'anteLI ~\.llne fresh fla\'\.)[S and abl~ to add crunch and !I,'e!lne" to a cil h, '0 thdt' where {he onion, come in.
(0
he
I h,I\'e to ha,'c uoar. And I ,-oull even turn ~ome of these things into sweet dishe<; that would reall} san,ty 111) weet tooth. I coulJ !I1dke cornhre,ld-hke rhln~s with the corn.
9. Sugar. I lm'e s\\'eet5,
'0
There are e\'en ,\reet hean dt-he
10. Salt. Mexican food tend,
to
In
-:-'Iexlco a welL
be fairly lW2h 10 oJlUm, bee mel he corn .m.! the he
amount of ,;alt to ~et rhem to
il
place where the~ 're really
TU.H
lut f
tLl't).
:
1. Grilling. It'- one of tho,e thing I wuldn't \i\'e wlthollt. I love mob, flavor, And they gu re,llly, realIy well with the re t of [hI' tuff. 1
Boiling. You\e
00[
~
t0
coo k lorn dn d Ll'ean,
il
loni.! time_
3. Shallow-frying. ['m rdernng . to when you cook omething lowly tor 01 I, and It kinJ of ' J you crare It all up. get em t~'an " ' - - - _ ..
-.------~-.- ..
----- -------
324 a
y
A
r
I
y
d
long time,
In
Ju,r
,I [IllY
bit of
Ver
curs,
"ERVI~G
6
AS A MAlt-< CnL:R,,~
1 pound (about 2 1/2 cups) dry black beans 4 stemmed, dried chipotle chiles (or canned chipotle chiles en adobo)
3 medium (1 1/2 ounces total) dried ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded 3 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped
1/2 small white onion, sliced
4 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil or rich-tasting lard 1 cup (8 ounces) fresh masa for tortillas
OR a generous 3/4 cup dried masa harina mixed with 2/3 cup hot water salt, ahout 2 1/2 teaspoons
3/4 cup chopped cilantro 1 1/2 cups (6 ounces) crumbled MeXican qucso fresco or pre 'sed salted farmer's cheese 6 cups stemmed, thickly sliced ~turJy green (such as lamb's quarters-quelites, chard, collard, or practically any other-if you're cooking 10 texIco. try the Veracru: xonequi or quintoniles or Yu atecan cha)'a) 1. The beans. Rin e the bean, then coop them mto a large (6-quart) pot (preferably a Dutch oven or a Mexican earthenware olla), and add 2 \.juart of water and remove any bean that float. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium-low, and Immer, partially covered, until the beans are thoroughly tender (they will ta te creamy, not chalky), about 2 hour~. You'll need to ·tir the bean regularly and add water as nece ary to keep the level of the liqUid a generau 1/2 inch above the level of the beans.
2. The chiles. While the bean are cooking. make the chile puree. On an ungrea ed griddle or heavy skillet over medium heat, toast the dried chipotle , turnmg regularly and pre ing flat with a patula, until they are very aromatic and a little toa ty mellmg, about 30 econd. (Canned chipotles need no preparation.)
On the same hot urface, toa t the ancho : open the chile out flat and. one or twO at a time, pre flat for a few secoods' · WI. porno f ke. With a metal patula until they tart to crackle. even send upr a Tamt . d 0 f toast ed c h'lI es Wit .h thenfl h Ip and press down to toast the other ide. In a mall bowl. cover both km Ot water and let rehydrate 30 minute tirring frequently to en ure even soaking. Drain and discard the Water.
•
v
v
g
a
c
u
•
• • - the chiles with garhc, onion, and about 1/2 cup water (YOU In a food processor or blender, pureething freely moving through thebl ) Press t h rough a mediu. ad es. need a little . more . water b to I Iget every I ucepan heat 2 tablespoons 0 f th e 01'1 or Iard over me,dium_},i"'; mesh stramer_ mto sa ' r about 5 minutes II a ow. nda t'arge nearly constantly as it sears and t h'IC kens lor Add the puree a at once an s chile Ir . . . puree into them, stir well, and simmer 30 mmutes. longer the . the beans are tender, scrape
(cantl"uLd from precedmg page)
3. The masa dumplings. In a large bowl, knead together (your hand works best here) the fresh or rec(lt\StI tuted masa with the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil or lard, 1/2 teaspoon of the salt, 1/4 cup of chopped cilantro, and the cheese until uniformly mixed. Form into about 48 balls, each the size of a
marble. Cover and set aside.
4. Finishing the dish. Check the consistency of the black bean stew; there should be a good amount of in the beans (you have to add the dumplings and greens and still come out with a stew-like corlSist:l!l cy, so add additional water if necessary) and the broth should be as thick as a light sauce. (If it's not thick as you'd like, puree a cup of the beans in a food processor or blender and return to the pot as ening.) Liberally season the stew with salt, usually about 2 teaspoons (the beans themselves will tinue to absortb the salt for quite a while after you season them). With the pot simmering over medium, add the dumplings one at a time, nestling them into the RUrvlil broth as they go in. Simmer 5 minutes, then add the greens; sur gently 50 as not to break up dumplings, and simmer until the greens are fully cooked (about 7 mmut for tender greens like 10 to 12 minutes for tougher ones lake collard and lamb' quanen). Ladle .into wann bowls, spnnkle laberally WIth the mnalrung chopped CIlantro, and serve with plenl11 steaming tortillas for a really satisfymg meal.
Daniel Boulud RESTAURANT DANIEL Neu York . New York I~GREDlfNTS:
Onions. They come into many dishes in my hometown ... if I'm thOmk'mg about survlva . I, I' d go back to 1. my fllotS.
Tomatoes. I can eat them every day.
? o ·
3. A whole pig. It would carry me a while-I love ham, saucisson, confit, boudin! (See Daniel Boulud's recipe t~)r Braised Spiced Pork Belly on pages 328-329.)
4. Two rabbits, one male and one female. In a few months, I'd have five hundred rabbits! And I could live on just pig and rabbit.
5. Olive oil. You can cook anything with it; you can barbecue or stir-fry or make a dressing with it, and it always tastes great.
6. Sea salt. I use fleur de sel, which is the top of the cru t when the sea dries. It's the most sophisticated and refined salt-I u e it more for fini hing dishes.
i. Potatoes. I love potatoes-the \·ariation in cooking potatoe ' is endless. '. Truffles, white and black. If lite i going to be tough, you might a well have it with truffle. And you can do anything with truffle. You co uld put the black truffle with a baked potato ....
9. Cheese. Aged goat chee e. I'd want it to be the kind I ate growing up in Lyon, like my grandmother used to make.
10. Wine. Red wine, like a great Burgundy or MedoL TE H IQl E :
1. teaming. It' healthy, and can alway be prepared with implicity. When you team something, the idea i to flavor what you team in order to preserve the purity of the di h. I'd use this for seafood, fish,
hellfi h. 2. Braising. I'd use thi for roast and meat mostly, serving them with a basic jus.
3. Grilling. That' how I live and cook in the ummer. I love vegetables and whole fISh, like salmon. cooked on the grill.
•
Braised Spiced Pork Belly by Daniel Boulud The ingredients list may appear long, but any unavailable herbs and spices can be omitted or repIaceu With . o t h er~ . SER\ EO;
6-8
one 4 lb. slab fresh, very lean pork belly
Spices 1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds 2 tea~poon black peppercorn.
1/4 tea'p
n whole ck)n'~
_ plece~
~tar ;111l-C
1 three-lOch I ng LlOnal11ll!1 t1l.:k Herb
6
rt.!
roem
I)
_ ba lea\c aoe
6
28
prt
rh\me
Tcrr.lOce Brennan PICHOLlNE Net<' York, Net<' York
L (; RHll Io
T 'i:
1. Olh·e oil. That's what 1 cook with-It reigns in the kitchen! It's healthy and tasty. 2. Garlic. I love garltc-it' very gutsy.
3. White truffles. Especially o\'er pasta. 4. Porcini. The greatest mushroom,
In
terms of flavor and texture.
5. Tomatoes. I love tomatoes, but only dunng the summer. (See Terrance Brennan's recipe for Poached Halibut with Tomato Confit on page 331-332, whteh he says he devised "in order to extend the toma. to
eason!")
6. Bread. A good, crusty campa~e bread. 7 Cheese. With hread, chee e, ami wtne, you'd have a nice lunch. I'd want to take a basket of cheesesBnn d'Amour, Cabralle- (a ~r m h blue hee e). Reblollchon, and Parmesan. which is arguably the !!rearest chee. e 10 the w rid. It' the nl hee e \\ Ith n enme cuisine behind it. L
- Wine. I love \\ onderful, bH!, mcel
3g
red \\ me
9. Peache .. Perfectly" In -np ned pe he -
he 're pre t \\ nh blueberrie .
1 . Chocolate. I 1m chocollte.
.
r 1.
auteeing. It' the medIUm
r lx ut
percent f m cook mg.
2. Roa ting. I like the texture n 'I\e . Ilk the cn 3. Grilling. FIr the fla\or
It
r)
km n chicken.
\\e thr u h th "ood u ed, and for I lighme
- - - - - - -.h d Day,Boat Halibut with Tomato Confit and Aged Balsamic Vinegar --------
PO~l
e
by Terrance Brennan
With this dish in the early {all, in order to extend the tomato season a little more-I like keepI CJI11e Uf . on the menu as Iong as pOSSlU ' LI e, smce . we are a Frenc h -Mediterranean restaurant. Proven<;:al . wIl1nW e, . . . . . 109 . evident throughout the dish-olive 011, balsamiC vmegar, eggplant. While halibut is fine th\,or, . one 0 { t h e better ways 0 f " , ' Jare J think poaching IS cookmg It and that it results in the best texture. This ,~utee I 0 f CUlsme, .. .m t h at It . ,s l'Ig h t yet f1 avorf u1 an d respectful of the fish itself, " . , 'entntive 0{ my stye re dish 15 rer , , 1
SER\E~ 6
2 large eggplants (about 3 pounds), split lengthwise
1 whole egg 1/3 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon finely chopped garlic salt and pepper to taste
6 ounce' extra \'Irgin ohve oil I. Brush cut surface of eg["rplants with oltve oil.
2. Place cut surface down nn roa~t111\! r,Kkj place m 3. Roast
In
a 325 0 o\'en for 1 hour anJ 15
irom lwen. 1. \X'hen Wl)l en,1ugh
to
<
ll111111tC', l\f
roa~tln~ pan.
until eggplant kin colbr es when touched; remove
handle, ,coop t1e,h out of eggpl,mt inro fme mesh
~tra111er; allow
to drain one
hour. 5. Place dral11ed eggplant 111 {Ol)J rrece .. or, puree, and remove ro a mixl11g buwl. 6. Add eg~, tlour, garlic, .,alt, and perper.
-I
Blend t"'lether,
~ . Place I Ounce olive 011 in 1 ")-mch tetlon pan and hear.
9 Place 1 tablespoon of eggplant mixture
In
a medium-hOt pan and ,allte until edge: begtn w brown,
12, Turn over, lower heat, and cOl.k throu!:!h.
1\. Rttnnve and dr,lIn on rarer towel, place on bdk1l1g ~heet, and c ntinue untd all the 11llxture IS cone. You houlJ ha\ e 1 to 2\.. pII.'Ce" 12, Place un a baking heet and heat [hem in
,I
,::)C O\'en when you are ready to sen·e.
331
~---------------~~~------------------ Gary Danko INGREDIENTS:
I£'s the basis of life. It would satiate my palate. I. SaIt. 7 Olive oil. It's the healthiest oil in the world .
..
love the flavor of bread. 3. Wh eat. I 4. Maple syrup. I even eat it with yogurt. It's a childhood thing. 5. yogurt. I eat it every day. I love a good yogurt, like Nancy's (which is made in Oregon). 6. Basil. I love basil. 7. Tomatoes. Another childhood thing-I love tomatoes. 8. Duck. It's plain, flat-out simple and delicious. There is no comparison to a beautifully roasted duck that you've rubbed with salt and lemon juice-to me, that is like heaven. 9. Raspberries. I love them, and they've typically got more flavor than strawberries. 10. Butter. It's one of the gifts of nature-and no animal died to make it.
TECH IQVE :
I. Roasting. It' imple and efficient and delicious. Some of the best foods are done that way (0
from duck
vegetables.
2. Braising. It's another way of developing flavor, and a treamlined way of preparing a dish and sauce at the same time.
3. Grilling. Proper grilling is done when the flames are imply glOWing emhen. not big licking flames that leave carbon deposits on the meat.
Duck Prosciutto by Gary Danko This is a delicious dish, made with an ancient method of preservation. You can hang it for 15 to 30 da depending on how dry you want it. I make them 40 at a time! I like serving it in the traditional with half of a peeled ripe fig, some melon or slices of pear, shaved fennel and arugula, or drizzled with fen-
manner~
nel oil.
1 tablespoon kosher salt 1/2 teaspoon thyme
1 bay leaf, ground 1 teaspoon whole coriander seeds, cracked
1 teaspoon black peppercorns. cracked 1 large Barbarie or moulard duck hrea ·t. abl1L1t 1 pound
1. Combine salt with sp\Ce~ anJ herb.
2. Trim duck breast of exces~ kll1, tenderloin. and Ille\\ . Ruh pice mix into hre, "t. Place on a plate and wrap with plastic wrap. Cure for 24 hour or Ion d. Bm hoff e l.e rub, \\TdP Ill. Lhct' ec10th anJ hang in cooler for 15 Jays. Trim exee ,tat. ltee \el) thlll. Th pro Ilitto may h trll:en anJ cut on .J meat slicer.
- --
- --~~
Su~an Feniger BORDER GRILL Santa M()nIca , California INC.RFDIENTS:
1. Olive oil. I love the flavor of a really strong, fruity olive oil-over cheese, over vegetables, on bread.
. egar' I'd need an acid of some sort. I love vinegar with olive oil ' and wh en I rnake stews, ll'k 2, Vto . I e to finish them with an aCid. 3. Cheese. A great feta, I love a great cheese-I can always eat it. 4. Avocados. Really satisfying to eat again and again, like artichokes, (See Susan Feniger's recipe for Avocado Corn Relish on page 336.)
5. Tomatoes. As a side. I need some balance--everything so far is too rich. 6. Green beans. I need a vegetable. I'm thinking of combinations of things. I could stew them with tomaroes and feta, or have them with olive oil and vinegar.
7. Salt. Avocado, olive oil, and salt. I can't think of a more perfect dish. S. Bread. A great bread, like a great sourdough, with a lot of crust. 9. Olives. Dry-cured black olive - of some !>ort. I hke :nackmg food, I like
to pick like that-some olives,
some feta ...
10, Chocolate. ometimes you need
~omethmg weet, even ju ·t a little bit. I'd take a high-quality semi-
sweet chocolate. After being told which of their mgredient were the each of the re t of her partner Mary
~ame,
usan Feniger went on to correctly guess
ue Milliken' Ii t! TECH ' IQVE :
1. Grilling. You can do anything on a grill. I like
to
grill; you can bake in the charcoal, you can grill or
saute or boil on a grill.
2. Sautee·mg. I would want to be able
~.
to
cook thing quickly.
Stewing. I love soups--l think they're comforting. A one-pot meal is easy and can last for day.
a
Avocado Corn Relish hy
Su~an
Feniger
In thi, refre~htng relish. corn , kernels .are lightly cl)oked just to develop their . flavor and then mixed . w h sharp scallions. Such a fabulo us re I'I h It chunks of smoky roasted chiles. lUXUriOUS, avocodo and crunchy . . ' ea 'i\y take the. place brt steak or fish and it .ga~~ L. can . of a cooked sauce with casual foods liked gnlled " buffet tables stnce It complements so many foods. We have been known to eat this relish off the on with nothing more than tortillas and be quite content. Poon or
3/4 cup olive oil 4 cups fresh com kernels (about 5 ear) 1 table 'poon salt 3/4 tablespoon fre hly ground black pepper 2 avocado. peeled and seeded I large red bell pepper. cored and seeded 4 poblano chile. r a ted. peeled. and seeded 4 scallion. whIte and ltght green pan ,thmly It ed on the daagonal 1/2 cup red wme vm
r
ut~ the com wiIh 1. Heat 1/2 cup of the olive otl In a large kill t ver medIUm heat t. per. about 5 minutes. Transfer to a large mlxmg bowl and t asKIe
2. Cut the avocados• bell pepper. and r 1 With the scallions red me v a n - i n c h utes to blend the flay megar. and mnammg 1 .. cup 01.
3
at room temperatuIe. Com rei nsb 2 to 3 an advance .... DUX
Roasted Chicken by Jllhanne Killeen and George Germon SER\E~
6-8
2 whole chickens (about 3 pounds each). washed and dried 1-2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 head garlic 2 large onions (I pound), peeled, cut in half lengthwise and sliced thinly 2 cups ripe cherry tomatoes 1/4 cup virgin olive oil 1 cup dry white wine 2 heads fresh watercres • wa'hed and trimmed 1. Preheat the oven to 450°.
2. Liberally salt the in ide and au Ide of the chIcken. Lay them hrea t ide up in a casserole with a tightfitting lid. Break up the head of garbc, lea\'ing the kin on, and catter the garlic cloves around the chicken. along with the anton ltce. Add the cherry tomatoe and pour over the olive oil and wine. 3. Cover the casserole and roa t the chIcken for 1/2 h ur. Tum the chicken breast lde down and,.. another 1/2 hour. Uncover the ca ser Ie and ru t about 15 minut until the skin has browned; tum the chicken brea t ide up and roa t an additional 15 mmut to brown. t the chick place to re t for 10 minute. 4. Lay the watercre out on a large. warm rving platter, top wlth the chlCkens and IOIIWl the watercress wilt. and serve at once WIth the remalmng uce pared in
aiel."
,....-
- - - - - - - - - -- - - - - - -
--
JO)'Le Goldstein
. 1 din JOyce Gol dstein agreed to answer our question on one condition'. "It's got to be aM ed't I erranean IS an . INGREDIENTS:
I.
Wheat.
I'd want to make pasta, bread, pizza.
l . potatoes. 3. A tree that growS both lemons and oranges. Citrus is one of the great balancers in my food-it adds
sparkle. 4. A cow or a goat. For milk, cheese, yogurt.
5. Grapes. Wine enriches your life. 6. Spinach. One of the most satisfying vegetables 1 know. (See Joyce Goldstein's spinach salad recipe on
page 340.) 7. Chicken. For eggs, soup. 8. Olives. For olive oil-plus 1 like them hy themseh-es. 9. Mushrooms, They're like meat . And they're vcry \er~atLlc. 10. Vegetables. Asparagus, peas, eggplant!
Tl:.CH
IQt b:
1. Sauteeing, I'm a line cook-l lo\'e the energy of keeping all the hurner~ going! 2. Braising. There's nothing like the smell when ,omethtng's braistng. 3. Grilling. llove the smell and the crunch ( f the texture and the char. The power of the gnlll' pnmative,
f
"
I
II
n
9
a
c
u
5
339
Hubert Keller FLEUR DE LYS :illn Franmco, CalIfornia
I
(:HrrllTNTS:
'aniIla ice cream. Thi, . IS a flavor I, love from chilJhood ' My father used to rna k" e It In h'IS pastry \ when I \I'm, grow\I1.g up, and I d always be nearby with a spoon an U" a bow,I You h ave to eat , l h lr \
we were children. 4. Caprin a [the Bra:ilian national drink]. My wife and I sen'e it at home at the start of parties. It gets a rarty going in a hour! 5. Limes. Lime goes with the Caprina! 6. Champagne. It's festl\'e, and great for 'pecial occa,ion,. In a recent article about what chefs have in their refrigerators, all of us had champagne~ Mme 31,0 h,lll r e hip Jam-and chocolate, for my wife. 7. Rack of lamb. It\ the meat I eat the rna t. L1rnb i very Imrie; imply roa~t it and add some roast garltc and a simple, uncomplicated auce . . Wild strawberries [fraises des bois]. It' a fancy thing. A • kid, my parents had a house in the mountains, and we would pick them In the wood . Their t1avor cannot be beaten. They're like the ultimate Jewel, or diamond - 0 full f flavor! And I could put them on my ice cream. 9, Oysters melon triple-zero). They're big, but not owrp wenng- 0 delicate, you could eat one or twelve. \" Truffle. It' an ingredient that
I
a mira Ie. With all the money,cienti t ,and technology, these
are onl~' a product of nature. And With crambled egg, they're the ulttmate! TELH IQlE :
I. Roasting (with a convection oven). We TO t percent of ollr fl h thi way. It seal in the juices and flavor. We de everything thi \\"ay-small cur- of flh and meat, even scallops--and let it re t for three minutes, Just like meat. And all our cooks have mall pray bottle of oil, (0 pray the meat.
2. Braising. liVing in a fa t-paced world, there i no time (0 cook anymore. Thi take longer, but ~ou get to use cheaper cut of meat that have a lot of flavor. We'll do braised lamb next to lamb 3 10m or chop, for c mtrast n the plate. It' a forgotten techniyue that has great delicacy. Pan-frying. It' a technique ou'd u t r veal medallion or thin cut of meat. Or for vegetable
or potat
, to gIVe them cn pne .
c
1
---------h a second sheet of rarc~ment paper with olive oil and place on top of the potato slices. Bake them s 4. Bru~~ n for 15 to 18 mmutes. The potato chips w1l1 turn into a beautl-ful dar-~oomID k bl I d be 1[1 slucent. Remove from the heat and set aside in a dry spot. Jhnos t tran Cauliflower Puree
he outside leaves of the cauliflower. separate it into florets. and wash it. Cook the cauliflower in Take ,1 . ('t htly salted L[1m'1-mg \\.ater. Wh en It . IS- a bso Iute Iy sof t. dram . It. . Place the cauliflower in a mediumJ rl1 [ 01 Ig , f d h' . . ,i:e saucepot. Add 3 ta.blesp~ns 0 ~ream an • usmg a w I.sk. mash It mt~ a puree over medium heat. Go , _. ~)r 4 to 5 mmutes to elimmate any excess of mOlsture--otherwlse when blended the puree will l10 surTIng l _ • • be [(10 runny. Transfer the mixture to a blender and puree until you obtain a very smooth texture. Season Transfer the puree to a small pot and keep hot. w taste. . (t
Watercress Sauce I. Wash the watercres and trim off the leave . Di 'card the terns. Cook the leaves in a pot of boiling salt-
ed \\'ater just until tender. about 3 to 4 minute. Drain in a 'trainer. Save 1/2 cup of cooking liquid. Refresh the leave under cold running water. In a mall aucepot, heat one teaspoon olive oil.
2. Add the chopped hallot and cook to a light golden color. Deglaze with white wine and reduce to almost dry. Add 1/2 cup of the cooking liquid and one table poon cream; season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and lower the heat to a immer for 2 minute . then add the cooked watercress leaves. Tran fer to a blender. blend the mixture for one mmute. and you will obtain a light and very tasty waterere
auce. Check the seasoning.
Fini hing and Pre entation
Carefully divide the cauliflower puree in the center f four plate. Top the puree with the caviar. Spoon the a.terctess sauce all around the cauliflower. Decorate with the potato chip by ticking them around the cauliflower puree. prinkle with chive and chopped egg yolk.
N . The d:-
!ess
blue potato chips definitely add a dramatic look to thi deliciou di h. A an option, but a matte one, red potatoe can be u d for chip; so can blanched asparagu tip. ~t blue potatoes or purple potatoes: they have a deep blue kin. The fle h i bright blue and the flavor texture are lmlhar to russets. They originate and are very popular in the South American Andes.
•
c
•
n _
Gray Kunz LESP1NASSE Net!' York, Neu: York
I CREDlE"ITS :
I----f. Potatoes, carrots, leeks, onions. I'd want ).
to
bring some nourishment, first.
Coriander.
6. Bay leaves.
-I .
Coconut. Sugar cane.
9 Salt. lL. \\'ater. Kun: ratded off hi. list with the a~ urance ,,f ~omeone who had just finished thinking about exactly thl question. '0 meat? Kun: claims, "1 woukln't miS, It ~\) much." And he says he'd look for fish and other local ineredlenc to cook with. TE H
lQl E :
1. Brai ing.
2. Simmering.
3. Steaming. Kunz expl
In
mat all of th e
t
hmyue ,-on emr te the fLlVor of the ingredients heing cooked into
the hqUld.
-
.----~--
~-----.---------
~--------------------~~~-ry-:S~u-e~~~l='ll~ik~e-n-------------------------- BORDER GRILL Santa Maruca. Ca/ifomia INGREDIENTS:
1. 1JIack pepper. I love it. ()live oiJ. It's tOO hard to make from scratch. 2. I need it to flavor everything. 3. V'anegar· 4. s-a-ti rice. I adore it. It has such a fabulous aroma-l could eat it every day.
5. Salt. I don't want to get it out of the ocean. 6. T()IIIIltoeSo Ripe and beautiful ones.
n_-..J..,rftes. Perfectly ripe, they're my favorite fruit.
7. I\PI'""" 8. Cheese- Vacherin. It's only available around my birthday (which is in February).
9. ArugUIa. A good source of calcium. 10. Red wiDe- A really incredible one, to go with the cheese.
Milliken rook some coaxlng to answer the questlOO. ". want to have anything. want whenever I want it," she complained. But then her ingenuity Jumped into action. "Can you fish there?" she asked h0pefully. TE H IOllE :
1. r. II
' •• If yoo
2. BI 'r' I I 1 Bel'
pm_
m the pan and can make a sauce. I lib the ar....diIIlda..
In 73He CUD ci meat--thev have more flavor, more character.
.la ......Ie. PI . ..n.5 I worked-on ~~ m a bakery.
"
$
Wayne Nish MARCH New Yorlc. New Yorlc
I
REDlENT:
oil (Mosto). 2. t. When I went to Barbados twO months ago. I rook a bottle of olive oil and a bag thole are far and away my pnonnes. quid claIM'" that can be used effecnvely m buildma up layen of flavor 3. V. ..-1b.1 ... am... thin the dish. You imply make a dilh. more COIlI_ 1. 0Ii
__
~~--dM~~
Patrick O'Connell THE INN AT LITTLE WASHINGTON Washington. Virginia
. hink I'd bother with anything but water. I'd regard it as a great cleansing, to rise above food. Why I dondt It want food on a d . I Wh y would I want to survive on a desert island? I just esert'IS Iandl'T . 10 survive. wo~Ibeing thirsty rather unpleasant. I think I ~ould fast and die. And transcend. Certainly one wouldn't fln ook for God's sake! For myself!! I can t relate to that. want (0 C , . r . I think I'd be perfectly content eating raw rOod, and foraging, or whatever. 1 think there's going to be ed in the next hundred years about why we do what we do to food even though very often it's rnU Ch Iea rn . essary. Why we cook food, why we replicate tastes from childhood, why we go through the whole nec un hen raw food would be fine. Obviously, it's doing it for others. It's doing it to express love and codess rroc w . . , . dling and all of this. But It Isn t something that I would ever feel I needed to do for myself. I'm looking to get beyond it. I recognize that food is a focus--it' a way of manipulating and controlling people into a sort of hei htened state and it' a vehicle that provides them with a connection. And it is powerful. But there's a di;ension and a level beyond it. There' sort of a high without it. And even fasting is a fabulous high. But food is a fabulous anchor, too-food, and working with food. And that's what it's done for me, as a personit's kept me from flying off. Or being shot down. What on earth do people ay they'd bring to a desert i land? Butter? Olive oil? I would welcome the experience of tarting fre h-{)f going to a desert i land not having any idea of what was there, and looking upon it as dropping all the old baggage and developing an entirely new palate and new mode of survival.
Bradle) Ogden LARK CREEK INN ONE /--IARKET RESTAURANT 'sdn FrancIsco , California
I
<.;lHJ)IlNT~:
1. Corn . There 's nothing better than fres h corn, right off the stalk. I still remember sitting in a corn patch
on my grandmothe r's farm, eating it nght off the stalk.
2. Tomatoes. T here's nothing better th an vine-ripened tomatoes, with a sprinkle of salt. When I Wa grOWll1g up, we llsed to eat them in movie theatres. (See Brad ley Ogden 's recipe for Chilled Fre,~ Tomato Soup on page 349.)
3. Beluga caviar. I love It with warm bl mi~. 4. Fraises des bois (wild strawberries). Right off the vine, they have the mllst intense flavor. ) . Lobster. Maine lohqe r, nght out of the water.
6. Free-range chicken.
7. Basil. If 1 haJ
herb, thl
to ,"0 to "Ieep WIth all
I'
the one. It'... my t,1\'orite to conk with.
Chiles. T hey enhance and add pice ,md ltfe to m re II n .
gelable; I u e them with ,dmo't anything.
9. Artichokes. They're one of O1} fl\ome
10. Balsamic vinegar. It"
01,
ail-tim
,\\( nt
\IIlC
·ar.l\e be n a
II
ed
lIt
,lTl\\md
,I
hottle In my
rack pocket.
Ogden t-alb at not bemg able "When the} 're
111
[0
\ II
t ke all n .lprle, blud 'rrte ,('herrie , IlII1~k
,ea on, there' n thin ~et er!" E H
1.
pit-roa!>ting. It' a clean \\ a~
2. Grilling. Yuu don'( hd\'e 3.
!Il('!\l\b,
to
0
(,00
ucaI
lQl E :
In'
(0
fit, anJ
)U
un gl.:t thin'
teaming. It alhm ,ou to retam all the nutnenb md d
n
rth 0 lolor.
r on the out
Ide.
,m,j mUfek
---
-------~-
---------
-------
-~-----
Chilled Fresh Tomato Soup with Pepper Relish by Bradley Ogden
SER V ES
4- 6
2 pounds firm, ripe tomatoes 1/4 cup minced red onion 1/4 cup minced yellow bell pepper 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon fresh cracked black pepper
1. Cut the tomatoes into I-inch chunk . Puree them through the fine blade of a food mill to extract the juice and pulp and leave the kins and seed behind. (A food processor or blender should not be used for this step a tOO much air i incorporated into the puree.) Cover the puree tightly and refrigerate for 2 hour. 2. Just before serving, mince the red onion and yellow bell pepper and chop the fresh basil. Toss together in a small bowl. tir the balsamic vinegar. olive oil, alt. and pepper into the chilled tomato puree. Adjust the seasoning with more vinegar. olive oil. alt, and pepper if necessary.
3. Serve the soup in chilled soup bowl and place a heaping table poon of the relish in the center of each
bowl.
E
o
"
ng
/I
Jean-Louis Paltadin INGREDIENTS:
1. poultry. I'd bring duck.
2. Foie gras. I'm addicted to foie gras, (See Jean-Louis Palladin's foie gras recipe on pages 351-352,) 3. Bananas. They give you strength.
4, Salt. I'm nuts about salt.
5. Spices and herbs. llike tlert/eine (verbena) so much that 1 named my daughter after it. 6. Olives. likewIse, 1 named my son Oliver. 7. Wine. When 1 smell it, it's so fantastic ... 8. Grappa or Armagnac. 9. Dried cod.
10. Water. I'm addicted
to
water-l drink four or five liters of Evian a day!
TECH
IQL f
:
1. Grilling in a fireplace. I've done It all my bfe.
2. Braising in the oven. In the wimer... 3. Sauteeing. It gives food a nLce color-an:lI ltkt: ha\'m~ a cn"pi' top and a moist bottom, Palladin aLo admit:, to lovmg pot all fe[(-"thmt:~ that arc cooked n I-o-n-g time." He'd also want to hnng a Cuisinart and a HendeL "Ilovc maktn!! concoction~ of herh." when the raw juice tastes just of the herh. You can u~e herh juice~ for, many thing ." :\ cookmt: techntque he could do without? "Poachmg-l hate it when the fooJ dlime~rate into the \tquld."
350
A
--- -
---------
Braised
---Foie Gras
-
--~ ~
with Rhubarb
by Jean-Louis Palladin SERVES
4
Sau ce
1/2 cup sugar twelve 1/2 ounces trimmed rhubarb stalks (seven 5 1/2-inch stalks) I cur meat or \'egetable consomme (preferred) or meat or vegetable stock (liquid and clear broth)
1/4 cup unpeeled chopped carrots 2 tablespoons chopped celery 2 tablespoons of chopped leeks (mostly white part) 1 tablespoon chopped onion 2 tablespoons unpeeled chopped turnips 1 tablespoon chopped shallots 1 cup of fond de t'cau (veal stock-thick in consistency)* About 4 to 6 tahlespoons bratsmg liquid (re~er\'ed from bral,ing fmc gras) 1 whole fresh uncooked duck or goose foie gras (Grade A: ahout 1 pound) fine sea 'air and (re,hly ground black pepper
B ra ise d bed 1 cup unreeled chopped carrot-. 1/2 cup chopped celery 1/2 cup chopped leeks (mo,t1y white part) 1/2 cup chopped onions 1/2 cup ch ppeJ unpeeled chopped turnips 1/4 cup choppedhallots 1 very leafy thyme sprigs 3 medlum-si:e bay leaves 1 tea -poon fine -ea ~alt 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns 2 table poon vegetable oil 1/2 cup meat or vegetable consomme (preferrred) or meat or vegetable stock 1 cup of port wine / wnnru.ed on ",.., ptItt)
~~~----------------------------~--~~~==~==~ .it I~ I made ft d « f I r te. \''"''etdhle • and ,,"ter. It thIck in conslStencv. cvmrar~ the a re nil the ,eet n \'ea. lnmal a -" t
1m
c
>m~ Th
IS
UCtll
fand rk ....au
IS
used
to
fmlSh the Sduce-
c
usn e
351
Start the sate< e
' ,. 4 ,'uart S3ucep3n and cook over high heat until a nch caramel c(llm 3 to 4 PIa e t h e ugar m a h ea\ \ -" .' min'tantl\' with '1 wooden spoon; be careful not to let It burn. Add the rhuhtrb ute,. tlrrmg a Im ('~ t co n ~ . < • tlr' '1 e well coated then promptly add the consomme (not fond de 'l.'eau) , carrot,. celery leek nnc untl I p\t~ce~ r . . '. allots' cook until mixture reduces to about 1 cup, about 20 mmutes, ~tlrnnCl {V'c onion .. turnip . and sh ' " "- a'e from heat and stram through chino is, using the bottom of a sturdy ladle to force as mu h , Iona II '. Remo\ ' C , ' bl Return to saucepan and cook over medium heat untll reduced to 1/2 CLIp ahout 15 m' t h rough a, p OS I e. " In, 'de (Thl's rna" be done LIp to two days ahead; keep refngerated.) utes. an ci ~et aSI . 1 L
.
L
'
_
L
To fini h the dish Heat oven to 350°. With a sharp thin-bladed knife. carefully trim away any green spots on the faie gras cau_ed by contact with the gall bladder. eason both sides of the foit? gras \'ery generously with salt and pepper; et a'>lde. In a medium ~i:ed bowl. combine all the mgredlent for this bral ing bed. Place the oil in a heavy 13 x 9-mch roasting pan and heat oyer hl\.!h heat on top of the ,rove (lbout 1 minute. Add the braisingbed mixture and .aute until It tart to brown, about 1 mll1utc". tining frequently. Add the consomme and continue cooking and ,nrnng ab ut ,mmute more, tht:n mOllnd tht:., vegetables in the center of the pan and place the fOle,g-ras on t p_ Rem \e rom heat nd c. I pm \\lth aluminum foil. pierce foil 2 or 3 time With the tiP of a p mted kmfe te me me dp dunn' ) kmg. Bdke In the preheated oven for mmute i then m mentaril~ n:m \ cpo fr m th )\ o. un )\ cr,
To cnc t
the ni
gras cr \\ilse mt i-m h-thlck he n the dlag mal. IX n 2 to 3 table poon ng pl te and arr n e a lice f fi gras n t p f uce.
uceon
h
Charlie Palmer AUREOLE )()rk, N~u
IVeu
York
. h' 'ifically tuna. It's \'ery universal. You can do a lot of different stuff with tuna . I. Fis ,spe~ Guinea fowl. AgalO, it's universal-and I'd get tired of eating chicken .
1
.
'
3. potatoe..S
I ((1uld live without rice or pasta, but not without potatoes.
1. Artichokes. There'~ a lot you can do with th~m-se~ve them with a \'inalgrette, or braised in broth \\Ith ream, l1r roasted. or mannated, And their flavor 5 great-they're almost sweet. j
Butter. From Egg Farm Dairy [the dairy in which Palmer i~ a partner], of course.
6. Spinach. It'~ wrsatile-I like it raw and cooked,
i. Chives. I'm era:y about chives, S. Eggs. It Ilwlld be hard to li\'e without egg', 9. Apples. I could do without them, hut I'd have to ha\'e apple, for my two ~om., who love them.
10. Foie gras. hery tIIne AliCIa [Palmer\ wife)
ha~
[Ole gras,
It
put her
10
a good mood,
Charhe Palmer commenb, "I could make ~alr from the ocean, 0 I wouldn't h,l\'e to bring it. The island II'QulJ probably ha\'e eoconut~" I could get milk from them. And there'd probably be some source of .;;ugar."
E v
"
I
n
9
C
l.
s
r e
353
--- -----
--
Fran~ois Payard RESTAURANT DANIEL Neu' York. Neu York
l\IAKING DESSERTS ON A DESERT ISLAND lr-;GREDIENTS:
1. Meyer lemons. They're ama:ing to eat whole, skin and everything! 1 Dark chocolate. Chocolate that's aboutffl 60-70 percent cocoa-not extra-bitter [over 70 percent] (S _.
Fran~ois Payard's Warm Chocolate Sou e recipe on page 355.)
3. Coffee. I dnnk about ten
to
twelve cups a day.
4. Nuts. I Io\'e pistachio nuts and macadamia nuts, which we don't use in France.
S. Red wine. A Burgundy or Bordeaux-I've only started to lo\'e white wine. 6. Armagnac. 1v1)' grandfather u~ed to eat prune" soaked in Armagnac. 7. Cognac. 8. Black figs. I prefer rhem
to
green fig .
9. Strawberries.
ll. Raspberries. 1 low t-erne!
------------_ -- -..
-.--...-. --_._-
•
)I
A
._-_.-
t
-. -- ---
. ee
Warm Chocolate Souffle by 10
Fran~ois
Payard
IN[)IVI[)UAL SOUFFLES
10 ounces sweet butter
7 egg yolks 6 ounces granulated sugar
12 ounces extra bitter chocolate. cut in small pieces 7 egg whites juice of 1/2 lemon 1 ounce granulated sugar
ten individual souffle cups. prebuttered and dusted with sugar
LIn a small pot over medium heat. melt butter and keep warm on the side. In a bowl. whip firmly the egg yolks and the 6 ounces of sugar until it become whiter and foamier {about 6 minutes}. Pour hot butter over the chocolate. mix well with a whip until chocolate is melted and then blend with the yolles and sugar mix.
2. Whip 7 egg whites with the lemon juice. When they become tiff. add 1 ounce of sugar. Whip for a few more minutes and then incorporate the chocolate and yolk mixture into the whipped egg whites. Gently fold the two together with a spatula to keep the preparation light and foamy. Transfer the mix into the cups.
3. Preheat the oven to 3500 • Place the cup in a pan of water and cook for 5 to 6 minutes. Remove and unmold onto the serving plate. The souffle can be served with whipped cream or ice cream on the side.
,
.
•
- - - - - - -Mark - Peel - - - - - -- - CAMPANILE Los Angeles , California INGREDIENTS:
1. Salt. 2. Bread. [After first saying, "Definitely salt and pepper-you need some seasoning," Mark later gave up pepper in order to bring bread.]
3. Greens. Everything from spinach
to arugula ro collard greens-I love their flavor, their bitterness,
the
sharpness you get from their acid. In a diet, you need their vitamms and fiber.
4. Olive oil. 5. Potatoes. 6. Lemons. I'd take lemons over balsamic vinegar. Lemon is such a ba,ic flavor, and is so versatile; you can use it on a salad, on a piece of chicken, on fi h. 7. Chicken. I 100'e ic \'er~atlhty. An I
1(\ gT<:dt
roa~ted \\ lth a cn~pv ~kin! (See Mark Peel's recipe for
Hert-ed Baby Chicken nn page' 357-35 .) 8. Thyme. I love thyme. It\ not an e l)(eTlC herb. It'- ul\Iver ,I. It cern to enhance the flavor of just about everythmg-any cihh, exc pt f. r de ert: fl h, chicken, me It, p,l~td~, pl)!entas. 9. Onions. [Again, },1ark eltmm Ited III
n'm I h,)IC of cho l Idte In order to bring onions.) You haw
to have oni,ms! 10. Red wine. "Remember, you're on a de ert 1 land, 0 ~1ark commenL, "And pre umably
~ou're !:Otng
to have ,lit ,w,lilahle because it's m [he sea,"
'ou can get fl h." T~( H
IQL
Eo
:
I. Grilling. n 2. Roasting: I like [he navor of gullmg and roa,tmg. There are ,omt: thm!?' that It:nJ thern,el " co gnllmg, ltke gnlled wh'lle fi~h ••mci other that lend [hem eke to ru,btlnt!, like roasteJ ChlLken. 3. Steaming. It\ a gentler methou of cookll1g thelt', rerfe t fur tt h, Vl:l!etahle" pot.HOC'.
--
356
----~
A
---
--
-~-
-~-----
-~-
Hcrbcd Baby Chicken (Poussin) with Lemon~ Thyme Butter by Mark Peel SER V ES
4
, -i came about backwards, I had a wonderful, crisp, buttery potato galette and wanted a tender and Thl) Tel pe, k d' -h to complement It. A poussm (a slx-week-old chicken) has the tender texture that 1 , 'I chIC en IS _ ' , t13\l1r!U 'd' h but it isn't all that full-flavored, so a qUICk splash of lemon thyme butter IS tossed on to i IT thiS IS "ent. To butterfly the chickens, the backbone must removed, but with " ' . \\;ln t l a little practice, It ~dd an inten e acC .. dfficult procedure. "n t a I
Herbed Baby Chicken 4 baby chicken, about 1 pound each 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 3 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs (parsley and thyme) kosher salt fre hly ground black pepper
Lemon Th)1ne Butter 6 table pt)()n (3 ounce ) butter 2 large garlic clove, peeled and chopped (2 table poons) ze t of 1 medium lemon, fmely chopped 2 table poon fre h lemon thyme leave ko her -alt fre hly ground black pepper 2 table poon fre h lemon juice (conrmwd on ""Xl poetl
c
•
...
anutd
m Pt
\
lOU_' p.1g~
'fe remove the backbones and ribs from the chickens. Place each h' 1 U,mg a large, \'ery sh arp k nl , . . ' c tcken . _, . board' in ert the tip of the kmfe Into the cav ity as far as It will go L breast side up on a cuttmg , . . ' . tne the .II I th backbone and cut through the nbs on both sides of the backbone R knife blade up para e to e . . ' emove . d h b kb s of all the chickens. Spread each ducken out on the cutting board a J and dlscar t e ac one . ' n pres, · th the heel of yotlr hand, until the breastbone cracks, and the chicken '111' down on eac I1 m turn WI . . , WI Ie · k over and using your fmgers, pull out and discard the nbs. flat. Turn eac h ch IC en , . . g bO\id marinate the chickens, refrigerated, with the olive oil and the chopped he b f . n a arge mlxm, . r S Or I 2 I2 to 3 hours. Remove 'the chickens from the refrigerator about 15 minutes before cooking. Just prior to cooking, season the chickens lightly With kosher salt and black pepper. 3. Start a fire m the grill and allow it to burn to medium-high temperature. 4. Grill the chickens skin-side down until the . kin is browned and cnspy, almost charred, about 6 to 8 minutes. Turn the chickens and place them on a parr of the grill that gives off only a moderate amount of heat, so as not to burn them. Continue to grill the chickem lIntil they are firm to the touch all the way through, about 15 to 20 minute longer. \X'hen the thH!h i rierced and the juices run clear, the chicken is done. 5. In a casHron skillet melt the hutter O\'cr medium heat. \X'hen the hutter beginS to sizzle and foam, Just before it browns, tir in the garltc and lemon :e t, rem ve the p n tmm the heat, add the lemon thyme, and Wlr! bnefly. Correct the ed omg t te \\ Ith k her ,h, blcl k perper, and up to 2 tablespoons of fresh lemon juice. 6. To serve, put one chicken, km Id up, chicken, and ~er\'e ImmeJldt l~ \\ Ith p
0
t
h plat lien.
A
nd pi h
cl
little lemon thyme hutter over the
-----Michael Romano UNION SQUARE CAFE New York . New York
INGREDIENTS:
1. Olive oil. It'; what greases good cooking. You can take a can of mediocre soup, drizzle it with olive oil, and it becomes a wonderful thing. 2. Bread. I have a hard time eating without bread near me-it's so basic.
3. Tomatoes. Only in the summer months.
4. Eggplant. It's close to home for me, and it's like meat in terms of what you can do with it. 5. Bitter greens---chard, dandelion, kale, mustard. I eat them daily. They're like a tonic-they make me feel so good.
6. Wine. Both my grandfathers made their own wine, so we grew up with it as a part of our life. It's a miraculous thing-it's incredible what can be made from grapes!
7. Lentils. There are so many different ones. 8. Salt-kosher or sea salt. Table salt has a sharp, stingmg, acrid taste.
9. Pepper. I love what It does for food, the warmth It
hrint.:~.
10. Arborio rice. (Romano first cho~e basm;m rice. then SWitched when he realized he couldn't make a
menu with the other mgredlent") Ba~ic to any cui;me IS some sort of starch and protein. And I'd choose rice over potaroe;. (See Michael Romano\ reClpe for RLo[to d'Oro nn pages 360-361.) Romann said, "I would give up all manner of meats and fi~h b:fore I'd give up vegetables." And he appeared heart-hroken when he realt:ed he'd omlttcJ garlic from his list. He also wished aloud to have taken herbs like hastl, chervtl, parsle " and rarra!,!on, anel 'pices like black cumin, cardamom, and nut· meg, TEC.H lQL E :
L Sauteeing. It's the quicke;t wa\ to clll11hne ingreJienr'o, heat them throul!h, and get them nn a plate qUICkly wlthnut altering them ~oo much.
2. Deep.fat frying. It h,b a homey kinel of feeling, yet done currecrly. it em be exqui,ire {,)r things like calamari
• . potatoe" tntter~.
1. tlrais' I' _ mg. t homey. It harken back to
E v
d
tnne when pe\)ple cooked WIth le~, expenSI\'e rYl'e~
n g
c
u
e
0
f
meat.
35
Risotto d'Oro by Michael Romano SERVE~
4-6
) C\.. ,hThis golden-colored risotto looks convincingly like risotto alia Milanese, the saffron-infused Lombarl1, IC. But appearance is where the similarity ends. Substituting fresh carrot and celery juices for the standard chicken stock adds a gentle sweetness to this summery, alh'egetable risotto. A vegetable juicer makes thi recipe convenient to prepare, but fresh vegetable juices are widely available in health food store . Ch nose t a white wme with lots of fruit to stand up to the sweetness of the carrot and celery Juices. Rlne Chardllnnavs
from Australia and California \vill do the trick.
3 cups carrot jUice 3 cur~ celery JUICe
1/4 cup ohw Oil
1 3/4 LU
arb rl nce
1/_ [e~asJ:)()()n mm ed
rllC
1/2 cup \\ hlte \\ me 1/_ cup peeled. pllt len thw I 1/2 cup 1-10 h riC e
.'
carrot
nI
gre n
h n
1/2 ur rltt len th\\1 e and !tced zucchml 1/2 cup I/Z-mch piece
,1
P ra u • l
-------------~-~~~
)U
'h end dl carded
1/2 cup liced red bell pepper 1/2 cup fresh shelled peas 1/3 cup liced scallions
4 tablespoons butter
3/4 cup finely grated Pannigiano-Reggiano 1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/8 teaspoon fre hly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
l.ln a saucepan. combine the carrot and celery juices and bring to a immer. 2. In a 3.quart skillet heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the rice and garlic and stir together until the nee IS coated with the oil. Add the white wine and bring to a boil, tirring constantly until the W6le is absorbed by the rice. Add the carrots and the green beans to rice.
3. Ladle 1/2 cup ci the hot juice mixture into the saucepan and tir until it is absorbed. Continue wi·. rest c:i me juace, addmg more liquid. The constant tirring allows the rice to release its starch into the COIl.... liquid, resulting m the characterIStIC nsono creammess. When 3/4 of the juice has been wed, abwt 15 to 20 mmutes. stir in the retnamlng vegetables. Contmue ladling and tiffing in the remainiaI JUICC, about 10 additional mmutes. The grains of nee hould be al dmte.
4. Swirl m the butter, 3/4 of the Pailillgtano, and season with the salt and pepper. Serve the ruotto ...."" k1ed with panIey and the retnamlng PanmguU\o.
Anne Ro ... en:\\cig ARCADIA ,mel THE LOBSTER CLUI'> .\i~u \ink. Neu York
I C;RlIllE T":
1 Chocolate-covered pretzels. It', the perfect food-yin and yang, sweet and salty, crunchy and creamy-all at once.
2 Milk. It's the perfect drink with the perfect food. 3. Butter. \X'hy? I'm the butter queen of New York. It's an essential thing for good cooking. 4. Kasha. From my rootS-It'S a homey, ethnic thmg. ). Onions. Like hutter, It's a basic, es~entlal ingredient-and there are Itlt~ of ways to eat them. You can lise them (or f1an)r, or as a vegetable.
6. Lobster. It's my favorite protein nght n \\'.
7. Corn. I Just had ~ome roOl'ted corn •.H a 'treet ('Hr, ,lOd
It
\\'a~ gre,H~
Pasta. Eventually you'll get ttred (f eve!) hing e1,e, anJ ,all c, n h,we It With jw,t butter.
9. Tomatoes. I'll needome vegetahle , and the e r~ health} ,lOti Dood. 10. Steak. h\ my . econd-i. \orne protem.
It nJ perper, too--"llldtlen
Ro en:weig aid ,he\ neak .11 n
1 EUI IQl L Sauteeing. It' the mo~t fun, and} u
In
2. Roasting. It' a techOlque that bnng
lit fla\OT .
3. Grilling. It' e \. and It' fun
f
111 1l1} OOion
:
u (: a I [of flO
c. It'- ver~ Inllliecir,ltc.
!"
---
Chris Schlesinger THE EAST COAST GRILL
Cambridge. Mas.sachusetts INGREDIENTS:
1.
Salt. You can't make food taste good without salt.
2. pepper. I love pepper-salt, pepper, and ginger make things taste good.
J. Lime juice.
4. Hot sauce. I like it to spice up food-I'm not really impressed with subtlety in food. I'd take EI Yucateco (hot sauce].
5. Baron. I could make a salad with the bacon fat and lime juice-and some tomatoes.
6. Gnens. I like leafy greens, like baby collards and kale. I use it as lettuce as well as in cooking. 7. Ginger. It's a nice, fresh spice. 8. Oysters. It's my favorite type of seafood. I like the East Coast variety, which are salty and briny, as opposed to West Coast oysters, which are more ubtle. 9. Tomatoes. I like really nice, fresh tomatoes. I'd make a salad to go with the oysters. 10. Sweet potatoes. They're versatile and tasty, and you need a tarch to balance dinner.
Schlesinger also commented that if he caught, for example, a beautiful striped bass out of the ocean, "It's good to just cook that with salt and pepper and put a little bit of lime on it. A lot of food is good just as food; we're not obligated to do a lot to it. And if I had fish, I'd wish I had some mangoes, which are my favonte &uit, to go with it." TECH IQUE :
1. GriD; ........
15 k •
1 love it. To me, grilling means cooking. I love the connection to live fire.
Esco&ier def4w::a1ril1ina • 2. %t+fa or
a..
3. in hia pi
1"-__
~
"the remote starting point of our art."
fried fcoJi
_____L'_ _
J
.
apecially the crispy <.:JUI1I;IIUKaD UI tt.
ita b -_ .b..L.. -'lent wnen .L he rea1'--..l beer, and offered to trade anulUl mpcu ucu he hadn't L-...l.t u ........
..... 1IcJ. . . ·Any kind of cold herr but paddably Samuel Adams."
,
Chili-Ginger ,IUce YIELD: 1 CLP
1/2 cup red wine vinegar juice of 3 limes 1 tablespoon fresh hot pepper (your choice), finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, minced
2 tomatoes, finely chopped Cook all ingredients O\'er low flame for 5 minutes, Let cool.
Wilted Greens with
moked Tomato, Bacon Bit., clOd Lime Dressing
1/2 cup bacon bib (fry 'em up) Juice of 2 lim
mixed with n little leftover bacon fat alt and pepper to t, te 1 head wa hed chicory 1 head wa hed kale
6 plum tomato , moked over low fire on grill and cooled H,eat bacon fat with lime juice, salt, and pepper. slightly wilt d 'h
e, erve
Wit
TO_5
hot dre 109 over washed greens and tosS greens until
smoked tomatoe and bacon bit-.
A h-Roasted
\\ eet Potatoe
4 5wet!t potatoes, washed and wrapped in foil Plac e POtatoe In
coals and cook until they are oft. Cut up large or mash ---~--------~
f
to
eat.
----=- - "-- --
•
'""ng
t1
Lv
365 5
"
Jimm'l
chmidt
THE RATTLESNAKE CLUB DetrOIt. Michigan
INGREnJE. TS:
1. Chile seeds. Chiles are really adaptive; you can use them for coloration, heat, spiciness. You can coosume them fresh or dried. With the peppers, you wouldn't need as much salt in the food-and 1 hate
bland food. I
Grape seeds. You've got to have wine. While you'd have to find a variety that would do well in that climate, llove pinot noir. You can make white or red from pmot noir pretty effectively. And at the second dosage, you could ferment It and ha\'e Champagne!
3. \\~eat. Obviously, you'd need wheat for breadmaking, and pasta. 1 think that's a very important staple. 4. Com. 1l00'e com-you ha\'e to love com if you grow up m Illinoi. Com' a good storage food; it grows really qUickly, and it's very high Yield. And you can roast it, boil it, bake it-you can do a hundred different things to it. J.
Tomatoe . They're very adaptable-you can m ke a alice l)ut of them, you can eat them raw, you can dry them and put them into .alad- and auce- They've £ t \.;0 d, high
6. Potatoes. Thev're a great staple. You n I11cch them, you can u l: potato rarch for thickening, you can make gratm~, ()f fry them- au can d ) ton of Ifferent thma to them. 7. Citrus- limes. For \,iramin C. I like them ill, but 1\.1 probabl~ take Illne . I thmk they're the most adaptive i0r hemg blended with other thmg . I Itk bmes better tho n lerm m, .lOd I think they gll better with the chtle', They add d char eten-tlc th t I be}ond cmu It elf. Or.mge. are not that concentrated, \\ hlCh b why I pa~,ed over th m. - - - - . . . . ...
;+
S.
...... it •
!lP » k't p • b
9. G
a salad or as a vegetable, or for fillings in ravioli, or for .... AaIlJI:W.. 10m cl iron. And it grows very quickly.
r.e .",10 have prlic. Besides .that, it's good for you. It's a great flavor enhancer Oft . , . . __ It ..., very arable. And It protects you from vampires'
.
~~-
.... In • .FOCI ovaall herb. I wouldn't say that it's my favorite-Ilike cilantro, llik.e thyme . . lie II 10• ...,.liaIfe (love them all. But you can tum basil into a sauce, whereas you can't
.'0Il'
!he ........
"WhIP- the ' , Ad?" Schmidt asked. "You could get salt from the water, so that rakes C8Ie eX _ AIIII you CDII&t '*D ... OC I'''' Since I grew up 01\ a farm, I'm covering all my blm h l _ __ ......... 1 And I love coriander, even though I don't have it 01\ my list."
do"'"
TECH IQUE :
.... cleYelqaEnt: You get a lot cl flavor off the wood on what you'1e
I.
k'I ............. In_ And ~lleIDperabR ml _
cl mIn and hee '
1 do lib the hich:temperature effcca cl_iDg ml"......
cI • ....,
-----.--Lind ey
~
.--..--- -
here
'-
--~----
CHEZ PANISSE
Berke/c)'. Cahfrmua INGREDIENTS:
1 Sheep. For (hee~e and meat. , Wheat. It'> a ~taple of one's diet-I could never live without hread or cereal.
-'
3. Corn. \'m an Italian. and I like my polenta. &. 5. Apple tree and pear tree. I love them hoth. And they're comtantlv1 usabl e,. I cou Id eat th e frUlt. ire'h. or cooked. or even make liqueur from them.
1I
6. Grapes. To ha\'e wine.
i A pig. I love pork. S. Salad greens. A \·ariety. or any kmd . 9. Chickens. I love egg . 10. An orange or tangerine tree. It' a tla\'or I really lm'e a lot. When reminded that .he could brmg al ng ea mn o
,
Shere re ponded, "I don't need ~eas()l1ings. If
you have omethmg that'.; wonderful, you don't need to da a lot to It."
TE
H
IQLE :
1. Baking. How could you have brc. d If you couldn't bake, not to mention the oc(a.,ional apr Ie tart. fruit ens!" and cake? 1
-. tovetop pot-cooking. I'd want to be dble to make cu.-tard and
~oup- and stocks.
3 Cook' f h . h ' '( tOO hot to cook inside! . mg over ire coal. F r vanet . and flavar-and t ere are time ( at It ~ JU"
-
369
E "
0
v
n 9
8
Cu
s
,,6
L dia Shire BIBA and PIGNOLI Boston. Massachusetts
I ' (,REUlE! T":
1. Garlic. Ilo\'e garlic. It's my fa\'orite thing in the world. (See Lydia Shire's recipe for Crab Fldeo with Broken Garltc O il on pages 371-372, which she characterizes as "major garlic!")
2. Olive oil. Garlic and olive o il go h and in hand. 3.
alt. I cannot eat food Without -alt-it has :ero flavor. Salt might actually be my number one choice.
4. Bacon. I IO\'e good bacon . I love fat.
5. pasta. paghetti gc'es great with o!i\'e o il and garhc-it's my comfort food. 6. Mavonnai e. I'm a closet mayonna i e eater. I can eat mayonnabe sandwiches.
i.
pinach. I crave pinach.
~ Broccoli rabe. I crave !,!reen - I lo ve their bmeme
9. Lemon. I u e lemon .. hke alth .. Beef. To have a creat tea , With
flav r enh ncer. t-n thmOel e qUite r'~.oC It ~ rOle. mmel
If gl\ en Tl:
1.
aut eing. It' a gr at, qUic
meH
he 'lute htr te mm per n."
10\..1: :
c()()km th t 1Ote~ IfIe the fla\'or on the seared ide.
I m m the ummer?
2 Frving. \x'hat' bert r th n 3. Roa ting. Th
H
u e.
a hi ken r.UdC~l1O_ the char
10
ur h use I
e f the top mells m the world.
\ £la\ r Imparted by gnllmg, he admit, "I'm not much of
2-inch pieces. Toss in 1/4 cup olive oil and bake 11\ oven until lightly golden. This should take 5 to 8 minutes. Be careful not to let the noodle get too
t Break 1 pound Goy.l fideos into approximately 135
0
to
brown.
4. Boil fideo in crab stock until al dente. Drain in colander. Set over bowl. Reduce 4 cups of liquid to 1 cup. Re erve.
5. Rub a hallow ca serole dish with a cut clove of garlic and butter lightly. Arrange the cooked noodles tossed with the picked-over crab meat to a depth of 1 inch. You may need two casseroles. It is ill\portant that the noodle only be 1 inch high. 0
6. Drizzle the noodle with the reserved cup of tock and bake in a 400 oven until the top is crispy and the rock absorbed. 7. The beauty of thi di h is the contrast of the crisp noodles on top, and the soft and somewhat dty under· neath. . Pass the broken garlic oil separately, as your guests will want different amounts.
Bn*m Garlic Oil 1 ancho chale
c
priac, peeled
1 cup
tra
1
VlfIUl olave oal t
1
black pepper •
a._
pan for S minuta till 101. sL:JWlv for 45 manures.,...&ld. Slowly drizzle into the c1q1Pinl wkh • knife. Add
0"
Rea.
Nancy Siherton CAMPANILE
Loss Angeles. CalifornIa
L (;RE.PH
T~:
1 Salt. Pepper. I real'"I think that, -' jlent and salt and pepper. 1
to
make something good, you don't need anything more th an a goo d .mgre-
3. Arugula.
4. potatoes. j.
Olive oil.
6. Bread. [Silverton gave up her original choice of balsamic vinegar in order to bring bread.] 7. Parmesan cheese. Everything about a baked potato, olive oil. Parmesan, and arugula with salt and pepper is so satisfying that I always say I could eat thi· every day for the rest of my life. 8. Dried pasta. I love dried pata. I love the texture, the toothines . I love fresh ravioli, but too many tlme fresh pasta is gummy. It' not alway a benefit ro make it fre h. 9. Coffee. I have to have coffee. (..,ee! ancy ~ilverton' recipe for Coffee Ice Cream on page 374.) 10. Red wine. I need red wme. St!verton asked, "b It a HawaiIan i land? Do I ha\'c ro bnng .ugar, or
Tf
H
IQl f
I
there sugar cane there?"
:
l. Sauteeing. It's very quick and it' very Imple-and the re ults can be delicious.
2, Boiling. I love pasta-and coffee. 3. Braising. I love the cuts of meat that lend them -elves ro being brai ed, and the results. "I . h out deep frying. Grilling .IS Olce, . butI d on 't ha\' e to h'e I can eas'lI Y I'Ive Wit a\ it . And I could easily . ~ve Without SWeet. For obviou reason, I love baking because of what I do--but not necessanly ecau e of what I eat." --- -
--
-.~--.----
373 E
(.
J'
Coffee Ice Cream by Nancy Silverton YIELDS 1 QUART
A coffee flavor at the end of a meal can be doubly pleasing; it can satisfy the desire for both coffee and dessert. Our coffee ice cream has an intense coffee flavor, much more so than traditional coffee ice cream because we use no eggs and less cream. It may not be quite as smooth, but I find it more refreshing. Crush the coffee beans with a rolling pin or with the back of a pan. Do not use a grinder or food processor because the resulting grind is too small and it causes the ice cream to take on an unpleasant gray color. I find that decaffeinated beans produce a smoother ice cream than regular coffee beans.
41/2 cups whole (4%) milk 1 1/2 cups heavy cream 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 1/2 table poons com syrup 1/2 cup decaffeinated coffee bean~, e .. pres,o roa"t, crushed 1 1/2 tea poem, coffee extract or instant e'pres,ll 1. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, brmt:! the mIlk, ere. m. !;ranulated ~ugar, com syru[" and coffee beans to a bod. Bod gently. ttrrint:! cantm u Iy u lOt:! .1 mbber ·p.Hula. reducmg until the mixture ha_ thickened very ,lightly, about _ to 2 ~ ITltnUtl: \\ Ith ufflclent bo Iy to provide an envelopmg nchneo;'i, as 0['1'0 ed to a water~ mdkme ,In )ur m uth.
2. Remove the ~aucer
3. Remove the mixture (rom the re rt(!e tor. If
4
en e the Ice crcam \\ Ithm 1 r 2 h ur ( ree:m .... the freezer-It become ( hard nJ r. m .
4
1-
per nail made Ice cream
doe not keep \ ell
to
Joachim pliehal PATINA Los A~les, Ca/iforrua
I GREDIE TS:
1
choa,..re IltJCe.
aood for me. I like to eat them just seared, with salt and pepper
WIlleD makmg a coulis. It's a nice taste.
• , 1'_ wilb -Bt pepper, olive oil, balsamic vinegar and onion.
E _ _d. It
I
thear natural flavor.
wbIII ~ aIllbOliJt.
~~~t
..... _ndIlolDI-diaco)lJ'q a bis pIeCe d
meat or a suckling PII
---
-- - Potato and Forest Mushroom Lasagna vith Nage Butter auce -
-
by Joachim Splichal I thmk this dish can challenge any lasagna made from conventional pasta, and the technique of making · II ite easily mastered once you have done It two or three times. The recIpe tender potatod'sh eets 15t rea y fqumushrooms but in a pinch you could use 3/4 pound of one kind of mush r r li ca IIs lor lour lllerent ypes a ' room, although, of course the flavor will not be as rich. You could cook the potato layer earlier in the day and leave them, covered with the parchment paper, until just before assemblmg the dIsh. SERV ES
4
Potatoes
1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted salt and freshly ground white pepper 2 large Idaho potatoes, peeled and trimmed into approximately 3-inch by 2-inch blocks (reserve the trimmings in a bowl of cold water ro make mashed potatoes, if desired) Preheat the oven to 350°. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper and brush them with some of the melted butter. Sprinkle a little salt and pepper onto the paper. With a mandoline or a sharp knife, cut the potato blocks carefully crosswise into 1/ -inch-thick rectangles (each potaro should yield 9 to 10 slices) and arrange them in a single layer on the baking heet'" Brush the ,lice~ well With the butter and sprinkle with a little more salt and pepper. Co\'er with another heet of parchment paper and bake for 12 to 15 minutes or until fork-tender. Set aside, on the hakiof.: hee~.
Mu hrooms 1/4 cup unsalted butter 1 1/4 cups (3 ounce) thinly ~ltced white mushroom, stems removed 1 1/4 cup (3 ounce:) thinly ltced ,hlltake mu,hroom" ,tems removed 1 1/4 cup (3 ounce,) thinly heed oy~ter mu~hrooffi'~, tems removed 1 1/4 cups (3 ounce» thinly heed chanterelle or porcini mushroom~, If available 1 large ,hallot, finely chopped 1 tahlepoon finely chopped chl\'e:> air and fre hi)' ground white repper
A
---
Jeremiah Tower STARS and J.T.'s San Frannsco. Cahfomia INC,REDIE . T<;:
1. Potatoes. They're so flexible-sugared, with milk, 1 could even make a dessert of them. And I could make vodka. 2. Turbot. It's my favorite fish, and makes a fabulous stock. It's very, very delicate with a very pure taste.
3. A cow, pregnant with a male calf. For milk and beef.
4. Sugar. [ could use it to cure pork and to make rum. 5. Olives. 1 could make olive oil from them and use them for flavoring. I love them-and they're very nutritious. 6. Seed packet: a Burpee "Grand Slam" cornucopia of seeds. \Vith seeds for thyme, beans, citrus, tarragon, parsley, lettuces, chile pepper~, and. orne kind of grain (hke buckwheat).
7. Lamb. It's the meat I can eat the mo t and not get tired of. PiLL I'd have wool and lanolin. 8. Mangoes.
9. Grapes. I could make wine, anJ Jry them
[0
m ke ral,lru. And I could make vmegar.
10. Pork. I couldn't live without a pi\!. I ad re ham and bacon < nJ thing~. ( ee Jeremiah Tower's reClp~ for Roast Pork Lom on page " 379-3 l.) Tower commented that he coulJ m k III
wn
lr.
TH. H \(Jl E :
1. Grilling. Over hvc fuel-then I could 1 0 cook b) pi -roa tin '. 2. Boiling/poaching. 3. Braising. In a pot in a fire.
78
A
Roa t Pork Loin Stuffed with Ham and Rosemary hy Jeremiah Tower
ed from Ja ne Gngson\ excellent hook . on charcuterie that if you brine pork fur a day he fore cookmg
sure way to guarantee mOl~t and very flavorful pork, as long as you do not overcook Lt. I[ yt)U h~~ that pork can be very slightly heige-pink and still he safe in terms of trichinosis, the trichinae me01 Re. biled at .a meat internal temperature of 137 degrees. This dish could be served with a warm veg'etable being d e pers, black-eyed peas, or red cabbage salad. )[e ll', roaste r p [learn
'e a
ERVES
5
3 pounds center-cut pork loin
1/4 cup salt 1/4 cup ~ugar 2 liuart· water 2 bay leave I table poan all pice berries 1 tabl poon dried thyme 2 clove gariJc, left whole 2 large hallot , finely chopped , tahle p
n oltve OIl
1/2 pound country ham or prosciutt ,fmely chopped 2 tabl poon fr h ro em.try leaves, finely chopped ait and fre hly round pepper 1 cup chicken tock 2 table poon D1)On- tyle mu tard 4 table poon butter
1. Trim the loin so that there i only 1/4-inch fat on top. Mix the alt, ugar, water, bay leave, all ~ice'l and thYme'In a pan and heat until the alt and ugar are dl. J 1ved j l P ut the loin in a pan JU t arge6 et I coo. ~ough to hold it and the liquid and pour the brine over the pork. Let marinate overnight or at lea t Ur In the refrigerator. (conanud "" ntxt ~I
379
Norman Van Aken NORMAN'S Coral Gables. Florida I NG REDI EN T S:
. and 1 ..... .........m.. Plantains were theIIfirst fruit I had in Key West that caused me to marve1 at " this cUISine . to (eel trUSt that there were a -new avenues for me to experience. Z. MIl s er ~th~elY're. the right kind, and at their juiciest, they're the most perfect fruit I've ever ~ an elr USClousness.
J. BlIck. P.... •. CCIC IlL All d the ~dients I'm mentioning are part of such a welcomeness I felt when I first got here- It made my cookmg accelerate and become distinguished from cooking from anywhere else in
AJDerica. 5. SnIt cod, or lNIcafoo.
It's such a part of the Caribbean tradition, probably because it's the absolute oppoaite ri the fresh fOO it would be so impossible to choose among.
6. O· •• 7. a 'rs I'd want the pungency and bite that ginger and chiles would provide. And there's such a broad ... ri &a,a. in c:hilea. One ci the most common chiles that we would use here [at Norman's] would be ScM b bonnets or habet\ero&, which are definitely distinct from jalapenos or serranos, in that the &aIiry and incredible aroma they have is so much different from the other chiles. Ginger and chiles wM:tclemer. well as raonate with each other in a very clear way. The flavors bounce quickly back ... iJnb bee.! m each other. They're sort of standing on the side like a little chorus that provides a iJiws'tr ~ to "rock the boat" or the dish. 8.
One ci the key thangs that creates the opportunity for a sauce or a dish to work is the to provide relief from the meaty richness of the dominant protein or the BOftening IIIiiCh. 1be benefit ci citruS on the island is that I could also drink. it. I'd have a hard • tJ.lIIIlic YiN pro
When I first got here, I ask~, L ___ ..L..___ . used . --'-ina To this dav one d the becaule ci I aDUlJlUilll~' It got an CVIRY ... ·--e· " . my menu is a conch chowder. It's become emblematic d my cookinI· (See ' -_elDeb Conch Q,owder on pages 383-385.) hit favorite animal d all. I gueII that' because you can 10 many L... _ _ and ribI and ......Ir tendmotn......twJe between ~. .,..,.... est, like my son was, are called conches·
u:e
t an d 0 ranges '- nu, cracked..Hacked Conch Chowder with Saffron , CI)CO by Norman Van Aken YIELD
10
8·0UNCE PORTION~
For the shellfish broth/cream and garni sh 1/4 cup olive oil 1 Scotch bonnet, stem and seeds discarded, minced 6 shallots, peeled and sliced thinly 4 clove of garlic, peeled and sliced thinly 12 mall clam , scrubbed 12 mussels, scrubbed and de-bearded 1 star anise 1 table poon roughly cracked black pepper 3 cup freshly squeezed orange juice 1 scant table poon affron 1 quart heavy cream 1 cup coconut milk
1. Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed aucepan over medium-high heat. Add the Scotch bonnet, ballots, and garlic. Stir. Let vegetable flavor the oil (about 1 minute). Then add the clams, mussel , star anise, and black pepper. tiro Then add the orange juice and cover the pot. Remove the clams and mussels as they open to a colander set over a bowl to catch the liquid. (They start opening after about 3 minutes; just take them out a they open and cover the pot again and keep checking for more
open ones.) 2. Allow the orange and shellfish juice to reduce, uncovered, until about 1 cup 0 fl"d . about IqUi remams, ~~minutes: Now add the saffron, heavy cream, and coconut milk. Allow ~o .boil.. s~irring occasionally.
hac careful, cream can boil over in a plit second.) Reduce the cream until It will JU t barely coat the c kofaspoon (about 15 to 20 minutes ).Tum off and strain. Discard the solids and reserve the flavored MeanWhile, take the cooled mussels and clams out of their hell, reserve the meat, and tOSS the
:;:n0
_
Ua.
(conUnutd on ntxt ".".)
--------------------------~---(I
/I
C
•
----For the \peg t"hle
5
Irni
h
6 new potatoes, scrubbed and diced medium 1/2 cup of pure olive oil 2 ounces smoked slab bacon, rind removed, about 1/2 cup 4 cloves garlic, sliced thinly 1 poblano chile, stem and seeds discarded, minced 1/2 red onion, peeled and diced medium 2 large carrots, peeled and diced medium 1/2 bulb fennel, cored and diced medium 2 celery stalks, cleaned and diced medium 1 red bell pepper, stem and seeds di carded, diced medium 1 ear com, kernels cut off the cob 1/4 cup roughly chopped cilantro leaves 2 bay leave , broken air and repper to
ta~te
1. Put potatoes to a small saucepot of It!!htl~ alted water. Bnn~ to a boil and tum down heat; simmer till Just underdone (this only take~ a few minute", inee [he potaroe are <0 small).
2. In a large heavy soup pot, cook the bacon With [he ohve 011 over medium-high heat until bacon is halfway cooked. Add the garlic and chile and
384
A
-
;/4 p' HIIllI ~,lIr
cl '~lIled, pounded (linch
,lilt! Pl'I'lwr, til r,,"ll'
1/4 LlIl' fllllli 2 egg~ Iwarl'11 with 4 te:"p()on:, of half,and,half
1 1/2
I.
(111'"
panko crtllnh..
S,'N,ll till' l,lIll h \l'1t h ,II r :111,1 l'lJ'per, Nil\\' dre~lge the (on( h pil'\.:l-' in t he nom, then thl' l' 'g. , :md thl'lll11 till' p.1tl k" , Pl,ll"e them ,111 :t I.uge (,Life, 'Iou (an layer Ihem t! you 'l'p~lrate the hreaded pll'ce \\lth
II'.IX p,II'l'r ,H 1'1.1 I iL 11m!"
10 fini h the dish I. [kit till'
IIntii qUite \I,mll Nf)\\ heell ,I Llrgl' bllet ,l1\d S,llItl- the c()nch until nlldy culmed on I",th 1,le, !\l'tll
~ote: AIl\ lI11cook d, brlelded ('ooch rt k turnmg (.olm o\'crmght It 1'e,I,'elllcJ L! tr,\ ,l1ld "dd II to till ollk ,d
g,\r!1\
h dl\~
f
(UP
\11th Or'.lO
p
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Alice Waters CHEZ PANISSE Berkeley. California
I GREDIENTS:
1.8~ 2. Olive oil. 3.
Garlic·
4. TomatoeS- (See Alice Waters' recipe for Pasta with Tomato Confit below.) 5.}{erbe Basil or rosemary, perhaps. 6.
Salad greeo.--Wild rocket or chicories.
7. NoodIet-Any kind. I had great soba noodles recently, and I love Italian pasta. 8. CitnJI. I like citruS a lot-everything from limes to blood oranges. 9. Pip. I like them fresh. I like baking fish in fig leaves, which give it a coconut-like flavor and is very aromatic. And I like cooking over fig wood. 10. Nuts. It's hard to choose
probably almonds or walnuts.
TECH
IQLE :
1. Cooki.. over fiftlpminB- I'd cook over a fire all the time. It feel somehow fundamental. 2. Wood -uiua 0¥eD. I love the flavors it imparts.
1 Seut~I! .Inpediena can come together very quickly; you can marry things in a hurry.
Pasta with Tomato Confit by Alice Waters
: -about two n"-l ea pu aerving. Make a bed of basil leaves in the bottom of an ovenpr~ dish that Ihe hold .. " 'll ea ....,. an one layer. Peel and core the tomatoes and place them core-slli~ down on and pep-Jer. Pour in enough extra virgin olive oil to come halfway up the sides ofl: L......"'1 the are soft and lighdy carame ....11/2 hours an a pretw .ted 3SOO oven, untl tomatoes cooked and drained oil with their perfume. Son on to taSte and .erve spooned over
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L_-mint or basil or thyme. It would make my food have some extra dl' , 9. tleru-r- .-mens Ion. ove com. 1grew up eating com; it's a very satisfying vegetable for me It's k' d f hI 10. Corn· 1l . 10 0 a starc vegetable.
"I can make my own. salt; I could .boil ocean wat,er in a pan. My mind is racing now-I'm thinking about ginger and garlic. I guess Pekmg duck doesn t fit. And you can tell I'm not a dessert person," says White. TH.H
IQlE :
1. Grilling. I love the flavor of the grill-that wood flavor. I like what the intense heat can do, the way it caramelizes the fat on the outside of meat and kind of chars the hells of shellfish. It's not just the flavor that the grill adds to the food, but it' the way it brings out the flavor in the food, too, and kind
of seals it in. 2. Pan-frying. It' a good way to seal m flavor. The other good thmg i it' a technique I can use to introduce fat into the food.
3. Boiling. You need a versatile way
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Ie. food . You can make oup and broths.
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I think of food as an experience, not as an entity or a product, and .,s gIve . n me a tremendous edge. It I think of it as performance art, and of every detail as bemg equally important. The whole . ce has to be conscIOUS. expenen So the chef needs to emerge as the controlling influence from the kitchen and direct the entire production, keeping it all on the same level." O'Connell observes that more people are regarding the restaurant experience as theater. "And it's either a good play or a bad play. It's fresh or it's tired. And it's genuine or it's fake. More and more, it seems to boil down to that for me," he says. "It's either right or it's wrong. And you're continually aiming for that right-on feelmg." Certain chefs belteve that some of food's expressiveness has been lost due to its abstraction from it~ meaning in ltfe and Its meaning in society. "What we've done i: demeaned It by crcatmg celehrity chefs anJ hot restaurants,"ay Mark ~1iller. "\Ve\'c tnpped it of ~()me of its po. ~ibilities, and some of It humanne " and ~ me of Ib 'ensuallty-it~ simplest level of an expenence. Too many y ung chef: .ue t cerllng what the meJia has promoted food and the re taurant inlu,try hem' ahour." Cuimary C:lrt~t ,on the Other hand, un ler t, nJ the multifaceted potcntial wlthm th dinmg exp ncn e. "AI Forno t , comhmatlon of things-I don't thmk YOll can pm mt any parr I ular a peer of the expertence. We started with the front door, an gave thought to the entrance ,md working your way through the re tauram-the VI 1I, I ,the mel!, a tlvdting all the :en e .• " ay George German. "J thmk we h ve everythmg workmg tn the same ireellon, 0 chat we try to m ke the pI ture complete." Johanne KIlleen poin out, "George de igned everything In the re tau' rant, mclu mg the equipment. There' a umt)' to the look of the re murant and the look of the food. We've h d toral control." Germon add, "And beeause we are el -contamed. In that we d about 99 percent of e\er,' thmg our:,ch'e • It really I a pure vi Ion." :usan Femger ) that at Border Gnll With partner Mary ue Mllirken, "We've aIwa) been huge believer that eVeT)thtng matte~\el1thm tr}(ll the \'aIet to the bathr m to the busbo) t the wbl' ttln It' n t that th ha\e to be f ncy, but there IS a cuttmg cd t th m. In the be tnnlng ~ "r reall extreme bout e\el)thmg that \\ P n f th tual t ng perLeno,t:
A
h: covel. hut you go in the bathroom and it's The art of the t bl , a e goes beyond merely putting II uTIlere 's t h IS ' contll1uum . 'C'J 10 ""1\''' ~ It <'r. even recipes Into pra r c Ice; It embraces good manners /ill hI'' I" e restaurant. that you need to ha\'e at' some the balance of the menu, the skills of being a ' . hln t 1 " lIlt 11" srnelb and t10wers and chll1
Every tIme \\e plan a tril ' the day after we pay a nonrefundahle depOSit on it, there's a call from someone for whom you simply c.mnot ~c awa} for their arrival-an important chef, an Important journabt. And you don't dJ.re ever ay anythino. I have fl\'e brother -they all got married on a Saturday. I couldn't go to any of their weJdmg . \Y./e belte\'e that alma t 10 percent of our clientele is eIther tn the !'usmes 0r writing a Crttl al pIece. If you con ider all the !!ulde~-the Mobil guide has four anonymous VL'ltsa rear, the AAA guide ha four unannounced \ I It a year. Almost every I1lght there's a single pern 10 the room w.kmg note, It' tre fu!. It' not ed Y to pray the piXie du~t anJ have them succumh! hen th ugh our tatf 1- large. nd capable, you'll fmd that thing wtll go better if you're pre~ent And e en If ome Ine get a perfect meal, they expect orne interaction al 0, With a key person. \X,ben y u do re ch omebody, often u' \'el') powerful, the energy tramfer. And YOLI have a great Jt~ faCti n tn mclktng that connection. It reaffIrm thJt what you're doing I' important. We open the IT\JII e\er, da\, anJ there arc .lbout rnenty letter -and ,ome of them JLI t make Yl)U bawl! And they il'lldlh' \, "I hJ\ e never \HUten to .1 re taurant m ffi) enme hfe for .my rea,on, hut I feel Cllmpelled to \\TI!e U clN>ut the expenence." It' often JU t tiny,llttle actS of human ktnJne ,for the mo t part, that t< htn o to them-ho\\ the~ were treated ~y the t. ff, or how the taff went OLlt of theIr way tn' h IWy about It to accommoJate them. It
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"A, a hlzarre examrle. our dng Rllse [d dalmaulln} I III the re t ur nt at th~ twnt d1111f. Sl1metlme' it's .llmnst clllnical-you think, H ven'r th people ever , een a dog hefore, for GIld's ,ake? ~Of cour~e he' pretty md We love her to plece~ and all this. But they get ur trnm their dinner .10 \ the, roll on the flollr with her in their little Chane I "uit. . , and the next thing YOll kn W she \; got a string of rearls on. It's entertainment! It's novel. "Chefs and restaurateurs could ask themselve~ whether there are one or two l1lwel ideas about how they could communICate a broader dimenSion of themselves to their clients-whatever it might be. They would pmhahly he a toni shed by the imract that might create." says O'Connell. "It's all inside \'ou-if you wdl Ju~t take the ~andbag, off."
An Opportunity for Community
In her fascmating hook A
Natural History
of the
ense~.
Diane Ackerman romt - Ollt th,1(. "The other senses may he enjoyed in all their he, ut \\ hen one I.~ alone. hut taste I~ largely acia!. Humans rarely choo e [U Jtne II1 !HuJe. ,mJ (0(1\.! has" powerful 'ocwl component." Leadll1!:! Lht:f.- !!ree. "F 1 h\)uld ,dw.lYs be eaten m company," say Dieter - h mer. ''t eat It alan bring, on! half rhe rlea'lIfe. Being With other pe pi I \\h ( m lk I d be llHlfu!." LtnLI~ey Shere concur.. "Food h uld be n) \ lhl , md "nno p Ie together omeho\\'. It people ate Ja ,thm \ uld be dlt ert:nt. n I It people cite and cooked t
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rem." r re [ ur tnt thell re o!.!nt:e the IInporrance ot 1 h It tl pr h t th 1010 I erlt:n e. "I think th,lt Patrick [ )'Conn 11) nJ RelOh r j IL~ n hl h VI: b n there h r .llml) t twenty year~ ut In (h mll.l I the wIIJ me (I The Inn .il Little W,I htngt t n in the be t Amen 10 h PltcllH) and the ~e t ot rt:n't en u h pc pIe Itkc [hem \\ ho .Ire pIOneer. re te th If 1\\'l1 m loe. It' !:!1\Jcn Amefl<.:an food anJ \\h) re rn\lO~ t c mple It) rhat \\C uldn'r be (here \\ Ith ur re t lin nt nd IOn nd h el th m But e\ n O'umnell him I .lckno" ledge, "Thl I I h rd HOle t be a h . It remmd me t the cr tn \\hl h Fr nch CUI me \\, horn That' the pen xl "hen the rear chef: had to pIe the bng , lOci rhe court. and the "ere the m( t J Jed pe pIe In the \\orld-h cau e they c,)uIJ h \e lO~(htn the 'J tried It all, the 'd d ne 1t all. Thl I H:ry Il1U h like the Am n In p b a 9 est e yo e f It t 1. Th re h \\ond nt p 9 as he s [I) In beflR.r.lth ",."" roof I t It n ht n \. ed I:x lit rl He {
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-In Culinary ArtistrY... Andmu ~ and Karen .......... food and Jb!or pairinCS as a kind of ~ for the . . .~ f f 17 « I coc*... TMr Iq1e is rhat once :YO" Icnow the scala, ,oK . . . . . . . . lit
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-MoLLy O'NEILL. The New yorit TII'IItS Macatine
landmark boc*... J., rM IN",? .... Oft dte as't., JCGIe today. "
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