Create any Size - Pattern Grading for Sewers

CREATE ANY SIZE: PATTERN GRADING FOR SEWERS

with Kathleen Cheetham Supplies & Resources

SUPPLIES • Cardboard grid to protect table • Permanent markers in different colors • Micro/ extra-fine tip permanent felt pen (Sharpie or other), in black and red • Old business cards, index cards or card stock • Highlighter • Paper scissors • Pattern weights • Clear grading ruler • French curve • Kraft paper • Kathleen uses Rainbow brand Colored Kraft Duo-Finish in light blue; available at teacher and classroom supply stores or online at mpmschoolsupplies.com • Transparent tape • Pattern awl • Pattern paper, resilient for tracing patterns • Needle wheel

SUGGESTED READING • Grading Workbook by Connie Amaden-Crawford (Fashion Patterns By Coni, 2011) • Master Patterns and Grading for Women's Outsizes by Gerry Cooklin (Wiley-Blackwell, 1995) • Pattern Grading for Women's Clothes by Gerry Cooklin (Wiley-Blackwell, 1991) • Pattern Grading for Children's Clothes by Gerry Cooklin (Wiley-Blackwell, 1991) • Pattern Grading for Men's Clothes by Gerry Cooklin (Wiley-Blackwell, 1991) • The Entrepreneur’s Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing by Kathleen Fasanella (Apparel Technical Services, 1998) • Concepts of Pattern Grading by Carolyn L Moore, Kathy K Mullet & Margaret Prevatt Young (Fairchild Books, second edition 2008) • Grading Techniques for Fashion Design by Jeanne Price & Bernard Zamkoff (Fairchild Publications, second edition 1996) CONTINUED >

© Craftsy and Sympoz Inc.

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Sympoz Inc. d/b/a Craftsy is not affiliated, associated, authorized, endorsed by or in any way officially connected with any of the products featured in this video. All product and company names, logos, brands, or other trademarks or images featured or referred to in this video are the property of their respective trademark holders. The use in this video of the products and any protected intellectual property is used for illustrative purposes, and no commercial claim to their use, or suggestion of sponsorship, affiliation or endorsement, is made by Sympoz Inc. d/b/a Craftsy.


with Kathleen Cheetham Supplies & Resources

GLOSSARY OF TERMS Grade (noun)

The total increase or decrease in circumference between each size, e.g., 2" between size 12 and 14; or the incremental growth/decrease at each cardinal point on a pattern piece.

Grade (verb)

To proportionally increase or decrease the size of a pattern.

Total or overall grade

The total increase or decrease in circumference between each size. For example, 2" between size 12 and 14.

Allocated grade

The portion of the total grade to be applied to one pattern piece.

Incremental grade

The growth/decrease at each cardinal point on a pattern piece.

Nest or graded nest

A set of graded pattern pieces stacked, illustrating the difference in each size. You will also see graded nests in multi-size patterns.

Cardinal points

The places on a pattern piece where we will insert or take away room to increase/decrease its size.

Grade rule library

Also called Grade Rule Table or Chart; a list of cardinal points along with their grade increments for each pattern piece.

Base size

Also called the master pattern; the original (usually middle) pattern size that is graded up and down to create the full size range

Production pattern

A master pattern which has been graded for all of its sizes.

True up or truing

Checking the graded pattern pieces to ensure they fit accurately together at their connecting seams.

Size run

The sizes in a specific style, such as 4, 6, 8, 10, 12

Machine grading

Mechanically moving a pattern to grade. When this method is used, the pattern is clamped into the grading machine and a knob is turned to set the grading increment.

Computer grading

The base pattern is first digitized, then grade rules are applied using software to create the new sizes.

Manual/hand grading

Grading on paper using ruler and pencil.

Cut and spread grading

Manually grading by cutting the pattern apart along cardinal points, then either spreading to grade up or overlapping to grade down.

Pattern shifting

Grading the pattern by shifting it back and forth, up and down along an X and Y axis.


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with Kathleen Cheetham

Sewing

Charts GARMENT SIZE CHART BASE SIZE

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

20

22

24

in.

cm

in.

cm

in.

cm

in.

cm

in.

cm

in.

cm

in.

cm

in.

cm

in.

cm

in.

cm

in.

cm

Bust

30

77

32

82

34

87

36

92

38

97

40

102

42

107

44

112

46

117

48

122

50

127

Waist

22

57

24

62

26

67

28

72

30

77

32

82

34

87

36

92

38

97

40

102

42

107

Hip

32

82

34

87

36

92

38

97

40

102

42

107

44

112

46

117

48

122

50

127

52

132

CONTINUED > © Craftsy and Sympoz Inc.

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Sewing

Charts PATTERN GRADING CHART CARDINAL POINTS

FORMULA

1 SIZE 2" (5 CM) GRADE

2 SIZES 4" (10 CM) GRADE

Top/Blouse

Allocated Grade

inches

cm

inches

cm

Front & Back

¼ of the full grade of 2" or 5 cm

1 and 6

¼ of allocated grade ½" or 1.25 cm

Midpoint of neckline to waist

1 8

/"

.31 cm

¼"

.62 cm

2 and 7

¼

Shoulder seam to waist

1 8

/"

.31 cm

¼"

.62 cm

3 and 8

½

Lower armscye to waist

¼"

.62 cm

½"

1.25 cm

Circumference check

4 8

/"

1.25 cm

1"

2.5 cm

/"

.31 cm

¼"

.62 cm

/"

.31 cm

¼"

.62 cm

PLACEMENT

4 and 9

¼

Center front or center back to armscye

1 8

5 and 10

¼

Center front or center back to side seam

1 8


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Sewing

Charts CARDINAL POINTS

FORMULA

Skirt Front & Back

Allocated Grade

11 and 16

¼

Waist to hem: halfway between center front and first dart

1 8

12 and 17

¼

Waist to hem: halfway between first and second dart

13 and 18

½

14 and 19 15 and 20




inches

cm

inches

cm

/"

.31 cm

¼"

.62 cm

1 8

/"

.31 cm

¼"

.62 cm

Waist to hem: halfway between second dart and side seam

¼"

.62 cm

½"

1.25 cm

½

Hip line: center front or center back to side seam

¼"

.62 cm

½"

1.25 cm

½

Knee: center front or center back to side seam

¼"

.62 cm

½"

1.25 cm

PLACEMENT

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Sewing


FORMULA

Sleeve

Allocated Grade

21

¼

Midway under arm and center front notch to hem

1 8

22

¼

Midway center front notch and shoulder notch to hem

1 8

23

¼

Midway shoulder notch and center back notch to hem

1 8

24

¼

Midway center back notch and under arm to hem

1 8

25

¼

Section sleeve cap roughly in half above notches

1 8

PLACEMENT



inches

cm

inches

cm

/"

.31 cm

¼"

.62 cm

/"

.31 cm

¼"

.62 cm

/"

.31 cm

¼"

.62 cm

/"

.31 cm

¼"

.62 cm

/"

.31 cm

¼"

.62 cm


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Sewing

Charts PATTERN GRADING CHART TEMPLATE CARDINAL POINTS

FORMULA

Top/Blouse

Allocated Grade

Front & Back

¼ of the full grade of 2" or 5 cm

1 and 6

¼ of allocated grade ½" or 1.25 cm

2 and 7 3 and 8

PLACEMENT



inches

inches

cm

cm

"

cm

"

cm

Midpoint of neckline to waist

"

cm

"

cm

¼

Shoulder seam to waist

"

cm

"

cm

½

Lower armscye to waist

"

cm

"

cm

Circumference check

/"

1.25 cm

4 8

1"

2.5 cm

4 and 9

¼

Center front or center back to armscye

"

cm

"

cm

5 and 10

¼

Center front or center back to side seam

"

cm

"

cm


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Sewing


FORMULA

Skirt Front & Back

Allocated Grade

11 and 16

¼

Waist to hem: halfway between center front and first dart

"

cm

"

cm

12 and 17

¼

Waist to hem: halfway between first and second dart

"

cm

"

cm

13 and 18

½

Waist to hem: halfway between second dart and side seam

"

cm

"

cm

14 and 19

½

Hip line: center front or center back to side seam

"

cm

"

cm

15 and 20

½

Knee: center front or center back to side seam

"

cm

"

cm

PLACEMENT



inches

inches

cm

cm


Craftsy.com

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Sewing


FORMULA

Sleeve

Allocated Grade

21

¼

Midway under arm and center front notch to hem

"

cm

"

cm

22

¼

Midway center front notch and shoulder notch to hem

"

cm

"

cm

23

¼

Midway shoulder notch and center back notch to hem

"

cm

"

cm

24

¼

Midway center back notch and under arm to hem

"

cm

"

cm

25

¼

Section sleeve cap roughly in half above notches

"

cm

"

cm


PLACEMENT

Craftsy.com



inches

inches

cm

cm

9

Blouse Practise Pattern Pieces Back BLOUSE BACK PRACTICE PATTERN

7 6 CB

9

Back

(cut one on fold) SEAM ALLOWANCE 3/8 IN (1 CM)

SIZE 14

8

10

19

Create Any Size: Pattern Grading for Sewers with Kathleen Cheetham © Craftsy and Sympoz Inc.

CB

10

TOTAL BLOUSE PRACTICE PATTERN

Grading a Blouse Placement of Cardinal Points 7

2

6 CB

25

4

9 3 Sleeve

1

(cut two) SEAM ALLOWANCE 3/8 IN (1 CM)

Back

SIZE 14

(cut one on fold) SEAM ALLOWANCE 3/8 IN (1 CM)

CF

SIZE 14

Front


SIZE 14

8

Bust Point

21

5

22

23

24

10

19

14 CF CB


11

Blouse Practise Pattern Pieces Facings and Collar BLOUSE FACINGS & COLLAR

SIZE 14 Back Facing

(cut one fabric, cut one interfacing) SEAM ALLOWANCE 3/8 IN (1 CM)

SIZE 14 Front Facing

(cut two fabric, cut two interfacing) SEAM ALLOWANCE 3/8 IN (1 CM)

CF

CB


CF

SIZE 14

Collar

(cut two fabric, cut one interfacing) SEAM ALLOWANCE 3/8 IN (1 CM)

Create Any Size: Pattern Grading for Sewers with Kathleen Cheetham

12

Front BLOUSE FRONT PRACTICE PATTERN

2

4 3 1

CF

Front


SIZE 14

Bust Point

5

14 CF Create Any Size: Pattern Grading for Sewers with Kathleen Cheetham


13

SKIRT BACK PRACTICE PATTERN

Skirt Back CB

Back 19

20

18

17

16


14

SKIRT FRONT PRACTICE PATTERN

Skirt Front CF

Front 14

15

11

12

13


15

CB

TOTAL SKIRT PRACTICE PATTERN

CB

SS

CF

SS

SS

CF

SS

CB

CB

CF

CB

Front


Back

14

19

15

20

11

12

13

18

17

16

16

SKIRT WAISTBAND PRACTICE PATTERN

CB

CB

SS

CF

SS

SS

CF

SS

CB

CB


17

Blouse Practise Pattern Pieces Sleeve

SLEEVE PRACTICE PATTERN

25

Sleeve


SIZE 14

21

22

23

24


18

SLEEVELESS TOP BACK PRACTICE PATTERN

7

CB

6

9

Sleeveless Top - Back cut one on fold

8

CENTRE BACK - place on fold

SEAM ALLOWANCE 6 mm / 1/4 in

10


19

SLEEVELESS TOP FRONT PRACTICE PATTERN 2

1 CF

4

Sleeveless Top - Front cut one on fold SEAM ALLOWANCE 6 mm / 1/4 in

3 CENTRE FRONT - place on fold

5


20

2

7

2

7

6

6 CB

TOTAL SLEEVELESS TOP PRACTICE PATTERN 1

1 CF

CF

9

4

- Back Top - Back Sleeveless Top Sleeveless

- Front Top - Front Sleeveless Top Sleeveless cut one on fold

cut one on fold



3 CENTRE FRONT - place on fold

CENTRE FRONT - place on fold

5

5

3

8

8

cut one on fold

cut one on fold



CENTRE BACK - place on fold

4

10


21

Create any Size - Pattern Grading for Sewers

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