Corset Making for beginners to intermediate
Julia Bremble of Sew Curvy ebook with video
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A RAINBOW DISKS EBOOK Copyright © Rainbow Disks Limited 2012 Rainbow Disks Ltd www.rainbowdisks.com 5 Linden Vale Howell Road Exeter EX4 4LF UK First published in the UK in 2012 Text and illustrations © Julia Bremble Video © Rainbow Disks and Julia Bremble Video by Trevor Wiggins Editor: Vivienne Wells ISBN 978-1-906314-23-1
Julia Bremble has asserted her right to be identified as author of this work in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, by photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission in writing from the publisher. A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN 978-1-906314-23-1 RAINBOW DISKS LTD
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Contents Contents
3
Using this ebook: tips
4
Introduction
5
why make a corset?
6
Brief History
8
How a Corset Works XMTWJSV½XXMRKEGSVWIX
11
Essential Tools
14
QIEWYVMRKXSSPW TETIVERHQEVOMRKXSSPW JEFVMGGYXXMRKXSSPW QIXEP[SVOXSSPW WI[MRKXSSPW
Essential Hardware the busk FSRMRK I]IPIXW
Vital Underpinnings
60
taking measurements making a toile TYXXMRKSR]SYVGSVWIXXSMPI ½XXMRK]SYVGSVWIXXSMPI ½REPTEXXIVREHNYWXQIRXW
60 62
69
making a single layer corset: XLIVIHWMPOGSVWIX worksheet : single layer corset [MXLSYXJEWLMSRJEFVMG worksheet 2: single layer corset [MXLJEWLMSRJEFVMG making a double layer corset: XLI[LMXIGSYXMPGSVWIX worksheet : double layer corset
90
End Notes
92
books for techniques and inspiration SRPMRIVIWSYVGIW 7YTTPMIVW
92
Glossary
94
Julia Bremble
96
More Rainbow Disks
97
20
Building a Framework
25
[SVOMRK[MXLFSRIW inserting the busk ZMHIS MRWIVXMRKEFYWO PSSTWMHI ZMHIS MRWIVXMRKEFYWO WXYHWMHI inserting the eyelets ZMHIS MRWIVXMRKI]IPIXW
Fabrication
46
WIEQW ZMHIS QEOMRKE[IPXWIEQ video: making a lapped seam/inserting EKYWWIX FSRIGEWMRKWERHGLERRIPW MRWIVXMRKE[EMWXWXE] QEOMRKEFEGOQSHIWX]TERIP ½RMWLMRK
Making a Corset
20
Sewing Techniques
36
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Using this eb ook: tips &VS[WIXLVSYKLXLMWIFSSOF]WGVSPPMRKXLVSYKLXLITEKIWEW [MXLER]HSGYQIRXSVF]YWMRKXLI%HSFI6IEHIV&SSOQEVOW PMOI an interactive contents list) and page Thumbnails - they will take you UYMGOP]XSXLIGLETXIVTVSNIGXSVTEKI]SYRIIH[LIR]SYGPMGOSR XLEXTEKISVTVSNIGXMRXLIPMWX8LIWI&SSOQEVOWERH8LYQFREMPWEVI activated by clicking on their icons (looking like tiny pages) at the top PIJXSJ]SYV%HSFI6IEHIV[MRHS[ 8LI'SRXIRXWPMWXSRTEKIMWEPWSMRXIVEGXMZI'PMGOSRER]SJXLI GLETXIVWMRXLIPMWXXSKSXSXLEXTEKI 9WIPMROWXSKSHMVIGXP]XSSXLIVTEKIW[MXLMRXLMWIFSSOSVXS [IFTEKIW'PMGOSRXLIPMROWWLS[RMRFPYIIK LXXT [[[WI[GYVZ] com-J]SYGPMGOSRXLIFPYIXI\XMX[MPPXEOI]SYXS.YPME&VIQFPI W7I[ 'YVZ]'SVWIXW[IFWMXIEWWYQMRK]SYEVIGSRRIGXIHXSXLI-RXIVRIX 7SXLEX]SYGERUYMGOP]½RHXLITEKI]SY[IVIPEWXZMI[MRKEGXMZEXIXLI 4VIZMSYW:MI[ ERH 2I\X:MI[ FYXXSRWSR]SYVXSSPFEVXS EGXPMOIXLI&EGOERH*SV[EVHFYXXSRSR]SYV-RXIVRIXFVS[WIV6MKLX GPMGO'SRXVSPGPMGOXLIXSSPFEVKSXS1SVI8SSPWERHWIPIGXXLIWIX[S XSSPWF]GPMGOMRKXLIMVFS\IW 9WIXLI^SSQXSSPXS^SSQMRSRGPSWIYTHIXEMPWMRTLSXSKVETLW ERHWIIXLIWXMXGLMRKKVIEXP]IRPEVKIH%GXMZEXIXLI 1EVUYII^SSQ XS HVEKEFS\EVSYRHXLIEVIE]SY[ERXXSIRPEVKI 4VMRXSYXTEKIWJSVIEW]ERHTSVXEFPIVIJIVIRGI)EGLTVSNIGXKMZIW XLITEKIRYQFIVWJSVXLEXTVSNIGXWS]SYORS[[LMGLTEKIWXSTVMRX SYX;LIRTVMRXMRKSYXXIQTPEXIWQEOIWYVIXLEX]SYW[MXGLSJJER] WLVMROXS½X SVWMQMPEVGSQQERHWMR]SYVTVMRXHMEPSKYIFS\XSEZSMH GLERKMRKXLIWM^ISJXLIXIQTPEXIW8LITEKIWTVMRXSYX[IPPSR%ERH 970IXXIVTETIVWM^IW 9WIXLIWIEVGLJEGMPMX]XS½RHWTIGM½G[SVHW To play a video, click on the image. ;EMXEJI[WIGSRHWJSV MXXSWXEVX%GSRXVSPPIV[MPPETTIEVYRHIVRIEXLWSXLEX]SYGERTPE] WXEVXWXSTIXG8SGPSWIXLIZMHISERHKSFEGOXSXLITEKIWGPMGOSR XLIXSTVMKLXGSVRIVSJXLIZMHISWGVIIR 'ST]XLI4(*½PIXS]SYVGSQTYXIV WLEVHHMWOMJ]SYFSYKLXXLI IFSSOSREHMWO¯MX[MPP[SVOJEWXIVJVSQXLIVI
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Introduction The archetypal corset shape, the one everybody thinks of when the word ‘corset’ is mentioned, is the :MGXSVMER GSVWIX -X WPMQW XLI [EMWX [LMPI IRLERGMRK the roundness of the bosom and the hips, creating the classic hourglass shape to any figure, regardless SJWM^I8LMWIFSSOMWERMPPYWXVEXIHKYMHIXSQEOMRK E:MGXSVMERWX]PIGSVWIXJSVJEWLMSRSVGSWXYQI8LI methods and materials are not exclusive to the period and can apply to other styles of corset, although there are probably as many methods as there are GSVWIXW8LMWMWNYWXXLIFIKMRRMRK =SYHSRSXLEZIXSFIERI\TIVMIRGIHWIEQWXVIWW-J you are comfortable behind a sewing machine, have a good working knowledge of basic sewing techniques ERHGERWI[EWXVEMKLXPMRI]SYGERFYMPHEGSVWIX- WE] FYMPH FIGEYWIWI[MRKMWNYWXTEVXSJXLITVSGIWW There are pieces of hardware to be manipulated using tools that may be more at home in the garden WLIHXLERXLIWI[MRKVSSQ&YX[LIREPPXLITEVXW are assembled in the right order, the result will be a stunning piece of wearable architecture that, with care, will last and be admired for many years, perhaps even generations! Julia Bremble in her studio. See overleaf for a video introduction by Julia 'SVWIXV] [MPP HIZIPST ]SYV WI[MRK EFMPMXMIW ZIV] quickly, and teach you to be patient, dextrous, organMWIHERHTVEGXMGEP-XWSYRHWEFMXPMOIENSFMRXIVZMI[ 1] EMQ MR [VMXMRK XLMW IFSSO HS VIEH XLI LIPTJYP 9WMRKXLMWIFSSO XMTW!) is to pass on the most practical methods of corset building knowledge, built up through years of making corsets and researching the WYFNIGXMRQER]HMJJIVIRXERHWSQIXMQIWLEVHXSJMRH TPEGIW - LSTI ]SY [MPP JMRH XLMW E KSSH FIKMRRIV W KVSYRHMRKERMRXIVQIHMEXI WVIJIVIRGIERHEWSYVGI SJ MRWTMVEXMSR *VSQ LIVI ]SY GER I\TPSVI JYVXLIV MRXSQSVIEHZERGIHXIVVMXSV] Julia Bremble The archetypal corset shape is Victorian. It creates an hourglass shape by compressing the waist while enhancing the roundness of bosom and hip $
INTRODUCTION
video: introduction by julia bremble
why make a corset? 'SRXVEV]XSTSTYPEVFIPMIJGSVWIXWEVIRSXFEHJSV ]SY8LI]EVIRSXTEMRJYPSVYRGSQJSVXEFPIXS[IEV HSRSXWUYII^I]SYVMRXIWXMRIWSYXSJWLETISVGEYWI FSHMP] HEQEKI8SHE] XLI] EVI IWWIRXMEPP] E JEWLMSR MXIQ[MXLFIRIJMXW%WPSRKEWSRIMWWIRWMFPIXLIVIMW RSGEYWIJSVGSRGIVR8LMROSJEGSVWIXMRXLIWEQI [E]]SY[SYPHXLMROSJETEMVSJ³OMPPIVLIIPW´7YGL heels hurt if you wear them for too long, and a corset hurts if you lace it too tight, but both make you feel +6)%8F]IRLERGMRK]SYVWLETIERHTSWXYVI8LI] QEOI]SYWXERHWXVEMKLXERHXLIVIJSVIXEPP 1MHFYWXERHYRHIVFYWXGSVWIXW[IVITSTYPEVMRXLI :MGXSVMER IVE WS TEXXIVRW JSV XLIWI WX]PIW EVI IEW] XSJMRH1SHIVRSZIVFYWXGSVWIXWTVSZMHIQSVISJE fitting challenge, and patterns that go right over the FYWXEVIWGEVGI8LIVIMWRSXLMRKPMOIE[EMWXGMRGLIV or ‘waspie’ (a shorter version of the underbust), for achieving a flawless hourglass shape underneath a Corsetry will quickly develop your sewing abilities %
INTRODUCTION The only limit is your imagination. This multi layer corset has silver rubber fabric over coutil
HVIWW;LMGLIZIVWX]PI]SYGLSSWIETVSTIVP]JMXXIH GSVWIX MW XSXEPP] WQSSXL FIX[IIR GSVWIX ERH JPIWL 8LMWMW[L] XVEHMXMSREP GSVWIXV]MWTVIJIVVIHF]JEWLMSRHIWMKRIVWGIPIFVMXMIWERHFVMHIW
1EOMRKEGSVWIXMWJYR0IX]SYVMQEKMREXMSRVYR[MPH F]EHHMRKJIEXLIVWSVFS[WFIEHWSVWTEVOPI1EOI your corset as plain or as fabulous as you like, and XEMPSVMXXSEWTIGMJMGSYXJMXSVSGGEWMSR;IEVMX[MXL NIERW E WOMVX HVIWW SV XVSYWIVW 9WI SRI EW YRHIV,S[IZIVXLIVIMWEGEXGL8LISRP][E]XSKYEVERXII [IEVSVOIITMXWXVMGXP]MRXLIFIHVSSQ a comfortable and professional fit is to wear a corset that has been hand made to your own measurements In short, a corset is sexy, versatile, funky, fun and timeusing high quality components; in other words, a be- PIWW-GEREPQSWXKYEVERXIIXLEXSRGI]SYKIXWXEVXIH WTSOIGSVWIX[LMGLMWZIV]I\TIRWMZI'IVXEMRP]EFI- ]SY[MPPWSSRFIGSQIEHHMGXIH-J]SYLEZIER]HMJspoke corset is beyond the pocket of many people so JMGYPX]JMRHMRKQEXIVMEPWSVWYTTPMIWNYWXGSRXEGXQIEX the only way to achieve the fit and comfort of such a 7I['YVZ]'SVWIXV] KEVQIRXMWXSQEOISRI]SYVWIPJ,ETTMP]YRPMOIQER] [[[WI[GYVZ]GSQ items of couture clothing, making a corset isn’t as difficult as first it may seem! &
BRIEF HISTORY ;MXL XLI MRZIRXMSR SJ IPEWXMG XLI W saw stiff boned corsets replaced by softer girdles and bras, which were strategiGEPP]FSRIH[MXL XLMR WTMVEP[MVIW -R XLI W ERH W XLI RSRIPEWXMGEXIH GSVWIX made a brief comeback in the form of the [EWTMI YWIHXSGVIEXIXLIXMR][EMWXJSV (MSV´W³2I[0SSO´JEWLMSRWSJXLIXMQI Our attachment to corset technology reQEMRW WXVSRK XSHE] -X MW JVIUYIRXP] YWIH in the world of haute couture and on the GEX[EPO%RHXLIGSVWIXLEWFIGSQIJEWLionable as outerwear once again in subcultures such as fetish, goth, steampunk, ERHFYVPIWUYI Corsetry has become fashionable as outerwear
By the 1950s, stays were made from elasticated net
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How a Corset Works To make a successful corset, it helps to know how the corset works, both in relation to the body, and as a patXIVR-RQSWXHVIWWQEOMRKERHXEMPSVMRKTVSNIGXWE [IEVMRKIEWI MWEHHIH to the pattern to give space between XLIFSH]ERHXLIKEVQIRX%WEVIWYPX the wearer can move comfortably without feeling restricted, and there MWRSWXVEMRMRKSRXLIJEFVMG In contrast, a corset shapes by comTVIWWMSR -X LEW³RIKEXMZI IEWI´ MI MX MW WQEPPIV XLER XLI [IEVIV W FSH] MR SVHIV XS VIWXVMGX;LIR QEHI TVSTerly, a corset actually gains strength from the even and constant pressure I\IVXIHF]XLIVIWXVMGXIHFSH]MRWMHI In spite of this restriction, a corset should not cause pain by pinching or putting strain on the wrong parts of XLI FSH]8LI WOMPPIH GSVWIXMrVI YRderstands the pressure points of the body, and how these and the corset will interact for the best looking and most comfortable result, bearing fully in mind the particular physical atXVMFYXIWSJIEGL[IEVIV)ZIREWQEPP amount of knowledge of traditional flat pattern cutting will help when QEOMRKERHJMXXMRKEGSVWIX &IGEYWIEGSVWIXMW[SVRMQQIHMEXIP] next to the skin, your choice of fab- A well made corset should be smooth, without any wrinkles and should not VMGMWZIV]MQTSVXERX7]RXLIXMGJMFVIW cause pain by pinching or putting strain on the wrong part of the body clasped around your torso will soon FIGSQIW[IEX]YRGSQJSVXEFPIHMVX]ERHWQIPP]2EX- EXXIQTXEVIHYGXMSRSJQSVIXLER¯GQ ¯MR ural fibres are best because they ‘breathe’ and, pref- YRXMP]SYVFSH]MWEGGYWXSQIHXSVIKYPEVGSVWIXXMRK IVEFP][MGOXLIQSMWXYVIE[E]JVSQXLIFSH] ;LIR GSRWXVYGXMRK E GSVWIX JVSQ ]SYV S[R SV E 0MOIQER]XLMRKWXLIPSSOERHJIIPSJEGSVWIXMWE commercial pattern, the most important, compliTIVWSREPTVIJIVIRGI7SQITISTPIPMOIEPMKLXGSRXVSP GEXIHERHHMJJMGYPXTVSGIHYVIMWJMXXMRK=SYQYWXHISXLIVWPMOIEZIV]GSRWXVMGXIHXMKLXPEGIHIJJIGX2SXI XIVQMRIXLILSVM^SRXEPGMVGYQJIVIRGISJGIVXEMROI] that it takes years of training by a corset wearer to points on the torso, the precise vertical measureEGLMIZI WIVMSYW XMKLXPEGMRK [LIVI QSVI XLER ¯ QIRXWERH[LIVIXLI]EVIXLIHIWMVIH[EMWXWM^IERH GQ ¯MR MWXEOIRSJJXLIREXYVEP[EMWXWM^I(SR X XLIJMRMWLIH³PSSO´8LIVIMWRSQEKMGJSVQYPEJSVXLMW ''
Essential Tools
&IJSVIWXEVXMRKQEOIWYVI]SYLEZIEPPXLIVIUYMVIHXSSPWXSLERH8LIVI are some quite challenging aspects to corsetry, which are difficult, if RSXMQTSWWMFPI[MXLSYXXLIVMKLXMQTPIQIRXW,IVIMWEPMWXSJXLIFEWMG XSSPW]SYRIIH(IXEMPIHMRWXVYGXMSRWSRLS[XSYWIXLIQETTIEVMRXLI JSPPS[MRKGLETXIVW
Measuring tools: tape measure, French curve/ruler, seam gauge tools
measuring tools Good measuring tools are a must There are no half measures in corWIXV])ZIV]XLMRKQYWXFIEFWSPYXIP]TVIGMWI.YWXEJI[QMPPMQIXVIW³SYX´ ERHXLI[LSPIGSVWIX[MPPGLERKI 8ETIQIEWYVIJSVQIEWYVMRK]SYVFSH] 'PIEV VYPIV TVIJIVEFP] E KVEHIV W WIX WUYEVI E JEWLMSR GYVZI [MXL WXVEMKLXIHKISVEWXVEMKLXUYMPXIV WVYPIV8LMWMWJSVQIEWYVMRKTVIGMWI distances on your pattern if you need to, such as when making alteraXMSRWSVEHNYWXQIRXW%PWSJSVGYXXMRKEGGYVEXIFMEWWXVMTWJVSQJEFVMGMJ ]SY[MWLXS³WIPJFMRH´]SYVGSVWIXSVQEOI]SYVS[RFSRMRKXETI 7IEQKEYKIJSVQIEWYVMRKWQEPPTVIGMWIHMWXERGIW Suitable hand and machine needles '#
Fabr i c at i on
1EOI]SYVGSVWIXEWJPMVX]EVX]GSQTPMGEXIHTPEMRSVWMQTP]IPIKERXEW]SY[MWL2SX[SGSVWIXWXLEX]SYQEOI for yourself will be the same because you will build your skills as you make each one, and as you work you will have a thousand different ideas for your RI\XGVIEXMSR8LIQER]HMJJIVIRXJEFVMGWGSPSYVW and textures to choose from does allow the imagination to run riot – there really are no limits! 1IHMYQ [IMKLX WMPOW XEJJIXE ERH WYMXMRK JEFVMGW EVITEVXMGYPEVP]KSVKISYWSTXMSRW However, because corsets have metal components and are designed to be placed under a considerable amount of strain, we need to think carefully about the fabrics we use and how we XVIEX XLIQ ;MXL XLI I\GITXMSR SJ ZIV] WSJX floaty and sheer fabrics, such as chiffon and some X]TIWSJSVKER^EXLIVIEVIJI[JEFVMGWXLEXEVI entirely unsuitable because most fabrics can be WXVIRKXLIRIHEWHIWGVMFIHMRXLMWGLETXIV
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Medium weight silk dupion and taffeta and (below) suiting fabric, often used in corsetry
FABRICATION Linings A corset does not have to be lined, but a lining serves ERYQFIVSJTYVTSWIW-XQEOIWXLIMRWMHISJXLIGSVWIX PSSO RMGI ERH WQSSXL%PWS HITIRHMRK SR XLI fabric used, it can wick away moisture from the skin, making the corset much more comfortable to wear, IWTIGMEPP]MR[EVQGSRHMXMSRW 'SVWIXPMRMRKWGERFITEVXSJXLIGSVWIXMXWIPJNSMRIH SRXSXLIGSVWIXEXEPPWIEQW3VXLI]GERFI³JPSEXMRK´ [LMGL QIERW XLEX XLI] SRP] NSMR XLI GSVWIX EX the edges, giving a lovely smooth finish on the inside (preferable when wearing the corset next to the WOMR %R]PMKLXQIHMYQJEFVMGGERFIYWIHEWEJEFric lining, the most popular being soft quilting-weight GSXXSRSVPMRIR Fashion fabric, turn of cloth and roll pinning ;LIRJEWLMSRJEFVMGMWYWIHEWXLISYXIVPE]IVSJXLI corset in partnership with coutil or another strong, close woven fabric, it must be attached to the strength layer either by bonding or by a process called ‘roll TMRRMRK´FIGEYWISJERMWWYIGEPPIH XYVRSJGPSXL 1SWXGSVWIXMRWXVYGXMSRFSSOWERHTEXXIVRWHSRSX mention roll pinning or turn of cloth, but it is of the upmost importance if you want to achieve a smooth ERH PSRK PEWXMRK JMRMWL -R GSVWIXV] XYVR SJ GPSXL MW built in after all of the fabric pieces are cut and before XLIGSVWIXMWEWWIQFPIH To demonstrate turn of cloth and the reason for roll TMRRMRKXEOIX[SVIGXERKPIWSJJEFVMGEFSYXðGQ Although this corset is beautiful it has not had a turn of cloth allowance built in. You can clearly see puckering ðMR 3RIWLSYPHFIEWXMJJJEFVMG GSYXMPSVHVMPP XLISXLIVEWSJXIVJEFVMG WMPOSVPMKLXGSXXSR 4PEGI underneath the silk over the hip, where the coutil strength layer is straining against the silk outer layer these rectangles together with the light fabric on top SRXSTERHWI[EPSRKFSXLPSRKIHKIW2S[JSPHXLI WXMXGLIH IHKIW YRHIV F] GQ ôMR WXMXGL HS[R top fabric has become smaller than the bottom fabric EKEMRERHTVIWWXLITMIGIJPEX [LIVI]SYLEZIJSPHIHSZIVXLIIHKIW-RXLIJMRMWLIH GSVWIXXLMWGEYWIWYRWMKLXP]VMHKIWMRXLIGSYXMP =SY[MPPRSXMGIXLEXMX[MPPRSXTVIWWJPEX2SEQSYRX of smoothing or ironing will persuade your little To prevent this happening, we incorporate turn of rectangle to lie flat, and, if you get the outside (soft GPSXLYWMRKXLIVSPPTMRRMRKXIGLRMUYI3RXLIRI\X fabric) to look smooth, you will notice that the stiff TEKIWMWEWXITF]WXITKYMHIXSLSVM^SRXEPVSPPTMRRMRK JEFVMGSRXLIYRHIVWMHITYGOIVW8LMWMWFIGEYWIXLI ]SYVGSVWIXTMIGIWFIJSVIXLI]EVIWI[RXSKIXLIV #"
SEWING TECHNIQUES
bone casings and channels The minimum requirement of a corset is to have FSRMRKGLERRIPWEXIZIV]WIEQ8LIGLERRIPWGERFI JSVQIHMRHMJJIVIRX[E]W8LIQSWXTSTYPEVQIXLSHW are: using the seam allowances to make channels, adding boning tape casings on the inside, adding decorative boning casings on the outside, or ‘sandwiching’ the channels through all layers of a corset (when the GSVWIX LEW SV QSVI PE]IVW ;LIR WXMXGLMRK FSRI GEWMRKW]SYQYWXEP[E]W[SVOMRSRP]SRIHMVIGXMSR If you sew from opposite ends you may end up with YRWMKLXP]VYGLMRKERH[VMROPMRK
See: &SRMRK, ;SVOMRK [MXL FSRIW, 'LERRIPW XETIW ribbon, binding and laces, Seams Sandwiched bone channels This is the easiest way to sew boning channels into your corset, but it cannot be used on a single layer GSVWIX 5YMXI WMQTP] ]SY WXMXGL ETTVSTVMEXIP] WM^IH channels through two or more layers of your corset JEFVMGSRGIXLIGSVWIXMWEWWIQFPIH-XLIPTWXSORS[ the exact dimensions of your presser feet or employ XLILIPTSJEUYMPXMRKFEV
These external boning channels are made of a shiny version of the matt fabric used for the corset panels $!
SEWING TECHNIQUES
Embellishments
The green corset has black lace appliqué motif and black flossing at the bottom of the bone channels. The white Once your corset is bound at the top and bottom corset has a lace trim attached to the binding, plus gold edges, you can then decorate it further with lace, flossing with rhinestones. On the black panels are samples JIEXLIVWVLMRIWXSRIWSV[LEXIZIVXEOIW]SYVJERG] of flossing stitches in different colours. Also shown are some 3V]SYGERPIEZIMXTPEMR8LIVIEVIRSVYPIW7SQI- gold ribbon and a matching bow times a particular trim requires insertion before sewing down the binding, but that is an individual case for ment depends on the type of trim chosen and the EWWIWWQIRXEWETTVSTVMEXI-RQSWXGEWIWIQFIPPMWL- HIWMVIHPSSOERHJIIPSJXLIKEVQIRX,S[IZIVMXMW ing your corset offers the opportunity for ‘hand fin- EPQSWXEP[E]WRIGIWWEV]XSWI[XLMWTEVXF]LERH ishing’, one of the features that will set it apart from EKEVQIRXXLEXMW³SJJXLITIK´SV³VIEH]XS[IEV´ Lace overlays and motifs A lace overlay can be sewn over all or some of your JEWLMSRJEFVMGTMIGIWFIJSVIXLIGSVWIXMWEWWIQFPIH If the binding is not a particular feature of your cor- Or you can use lace ‘motifs’ or edging attached to set, you may wish to sew a braid, ribbon, feathers or your corset as a binding trim or an applique, whatFIEHIHXVMQXSXLIVIKYPEVFMRHMRK%KEMRXLMWMWZIV] IZIVWYMXW]SYVPEGI8LMWMWYWYEPP]WI[RSRYWMRKE much a personal choice and the method of attach- XMR]WXEFSVJIPPWXMXGLIZIV]JI[QMPPMQIXVIW Braid, ribbon and beaded trims
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Making a Corset In this chapter we go through the process of making three actual corsets from start to finish, using some of the techniques, tool and materials outlined in preZMSYWGLETXIVW-I\TPEMRLS[XSTYXEPPXLIGSQTSnents together in the right order, and how keep your work organised so the whole process is as easy as TSWWMFPIJSVFIKMRRIVW8LIVIEVIPMROWXSVIPIZERXMRJSVQEXMSRMRIEVPMIVWIGXMSRWSJXLMWIFSSO
SVMKMREPWX]PIERHTVSTSVXMSRW-XLEWEFYMPXMR[EMWX VIHYGXMSRSJGQ MR 8SFY] XLI TEXXIVR KS XS LXXT [[[XVYP]ZMGXSVMERGSQ
- LEZI FEWIH XLIWI GSVWIXW SR XLI TSTYPEV³8:´ corset pattern which is made by 8VYP]:MGXSVMER but XLIXIGLRMUYIWERHQIXLSHWEVIKSSHJSVER]:MGXSVMERWX]PIGSVWIXTEXXIVR
8:LEWTEXXIVRTMIGIWJEMVP]WXERHEVHMR:MGXSVMERGSVWIXV]8LIMRWXVYGXMSRWKMZIRMRXLITEXXIVRIRvelope make a double layered corset (like the ;LMXI 'SYXMP 'SVWIX ,S[IZIV JSV XLI 6IH 7MPO 'SVWIX I have converted the instructions to make a single layer GSVWIXF]EHHMRKJEGMRKWEXXLIFEGOERHJVSRX-LEZI EPWSEHHIHEJVSRXQSHIWX]TERIPXSFSXLZIVWMSRW
A quick reference ‘worksheet’ is included for each TVSNIGX 9WI XLMW [LMPI ]SY [SVO XS OIIT ]SYVWIPJ SVKERMWIH ERH JSGYWWIH8LI WLIIXW GER FI TVMRXIH SJJERHSVGSTMIHERHGYWXSQMWIHJSVSXLIVTVSNIGXW
8LI8:TEXXIVRMWJVSQERSVMKMREPTEXXIVRTYFPMWLIHMRPEHMIW QEKE^MRIWEVSYRHXLI]IEV 8VYP]:MGXSVMERLEZIQSHMJMIHMXXSMRGSVTSVEXIQSHIVR JMKYVIGLEVEGXIVMWXMGW ERHGYTWM^IW FYXMXVIXEMRWMXW See over for an image of the TV110 pattern.
The TV110 corset from Truly Victorian %)
MAKING A CORSET
making a single layer corset: the red silk corset Here we are making a single layer corset using fashion fabric (silk) flatlined to a coutilPE]IV8LMWMWEFEWMGQIXLSHSJGSVWIXGSRWXVYGXMSR *SVEQSVIFEWMGGSRWXVYGXMSR]SYGSYPHYWINYWXGSYXMP[MXLSYXE fashion fabric, in which case simply ignore the parts of these instructions that deal with the silk, and follow ;SVOWLIIX *EGMRKWEVIEHHIHXSXLITEXXIVRFIGEYWIXLMWMWIWWIRXMEPP]EWMRKPIPE]IVQIXLSHWSXLIVIMWRSPMRMRK &SRI GEWMRKW are sewn to the inside of the corset over the seams and stitched through all layers (the silk is too delicate to take bones sandwiched beX[IIRMXERHXLIGSYXMP The instructions here assume that you have made a toile of the corset beforehand, to ascertain fit and EPXIVXLITEXXIVRMJRIGIWWEV] Print out ;SVOWLIIX. Use it to organise your work. Tracing and altering the pattern %WGIVXEMR]SYVWM^IJVSQXLIpattern envelope, trace the pattern pieces accordingly then add the extra pieces (facings and front modesty panel) required to QEOIXLIGSVWIXMRXSEWMRKPIPE]IVGSRWXVYGXMSR 8SQEOIXLIJVSRXERHFEGOJEGMRKWGYXVIGXERKYPEV TMIGIWSJJEWLMSRJEFVMGERHGSYXMP TMIGIWMRXSXEP SR XLI WXVEMKLX KVEMR8LI VIGXERKPIW WLSYPH FI XLI same length as the centre front/centre back edges SJXLIGSVWIXERHGQ ôMR [MHI8LMWMRGPYHIW WIEQEPPS[ERGIW*SVXLIJVSRXQSHIWX]TERIPGYXE The single layer corset, made of red silk flatlined to coutil TMIGIGQ ETTVS\ôMR [MHIERHXLIWEQIPIRKXL as the centre front/centre back edges of the corset 1EOIEtoile from calico or other cheap but sturdy (see instructions on busk insertion) JEFVMG*MX]SYVXSMPIERHRSXIER]JMXXMRKMWWYIW'SRfirm that any extra bone channels are in the right -J ]SY EVI QEOMRK SRI SJ XLI PEVKIV WM^IW ]SY QE] TPEGIW 1EVO ER] EPXIVEXMSRW SR FSXL ]SYV QEWXIV need extra bone channels running down the centre TEXXIVRERH]SYVXVEGIHTEXXIVR;LIR]SYEVIEFWSSJTMIGIWERH XLI[MHIWXTMIGIW 1EVOXLIQ PYXIP]LETT][MXLXLIJMXERHLEZIQEHIEHNYWXQIRXW SRXLITEXXIVRTIVTIRHMGYPEVXSXLI[EMWXPMRI MJRIGIWWEV]MXMWXMQIXSGYXERHQEVOXLIJEFVMG &'
End Notes If I could convey only one piece of knowledge about the art of corsetry, it would be that corWIXQEOMRKMWZIV]QYGLERMRHMZMHYEP WNSYVRI] All corset makers – professional or otherwise – have their own ways of doing things, developed through their particular experience and ORS[PIHKI 2SX[SGSVWIXQEOIVW[SVOMRXLIWEQI[E] SVYWIEPPXLIWEQIXIGLRMUYIW-XMWR´XEFSYX ‘competition’; it’s simply about what works FIWXJSVXLIQEOIVWERHXLIMVTVSHYGXW8LIVI EVIRSVYPIWSRP]KYMHIW &IMRWTMVIHF]SXLIVWFYXRIZIVFIEJVEMHXS I\TPSVIERHI\TIVMQIRX9WIQ]JEZSYVMXIVIWSYVGIWKMZIRLIVIXSI\TERH]SYVLSVM^SRW
books for techniques and inspiration Corsets and Crinolines,2SVEL;EYKL 6SYXPIHKI Waisted Efforts: An Illustrated Guide to Corset Making,6SFIVX(S]PI 7EVXSVMEP4VIWW Corsets: A Cultural History, :EPIVMI7XIIPI =EPI9RMZIVWMX]TVIWW Corsets: Historic Patterns & Techniques,.MPP7EPIR &EXWJSVH Pattern Cutting for Lingerie, Beachwear and Leisurewear,%RR,EKEV .SLR;MPI] Corsets: A Modern Girl’s Guide, :IPHE0EYHIV % '&PEGO Underwear Fashion in Detail,)PIVM0]RR : % Foundations of Fashion,The Symington Corsetry Collection, 1860–1990, 4LMPPMT;EVVIR 0IMGIWXIVWLMVI1YWIYQW The Fashionable Lady in the 19th Century, 'LEVPIW,+MFFW7QMXL : % Forties Fashion and the New Look,'SPMR1G(S[IPP &PSSQWFYV] Bound to Please: A history of the Victorian Corset,0IMKL7YQQIVW &IVK )!
Julia Bremble Julia owns and runs the popular online shop 7I['YVZ]'SVWIXV],IVIWLIWIPPWGSVWIX making and sewing supplies for the home corsetiere and crafter and provides free EHZMGISRLS[XSQEOIEGSVWIX .YPME&VIQFPIMWEPWSXLIHIWMKRIV behind 1EVQEPEHI/MWWthe beWTSOIGSVWIXV]WIVZMGI Trained in pattern cutting for fashion, Julia is a self taught corsetiere who has applied a study of anthropometrics to her unique brand of corsetry in order to create exceptionally well fitted and comfortable corsets for the QSHIVR[SQER Specialising in, but not limited to corsetry, Julia works alone from her home studio in Oxfordshire, 9/&]REXYVIETIVJIGXMSRMWXWLI works locally and further afield, creating corsets or outfits for any SGGEWMSR Julia teaches corsetry and dressQEOMRKMR3\JSVHWLMVI9/ERH writes a sewing blog recording her professional and recreational sewing pursuits, including pattern GYXXMRKERHHVIWWQEOMRK Read all about it at The House of 1EVQEPEHI
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