Construction Casual Bottoms (Unlined)

Ann Taylor Ann Taylor Loft Ann Taylor Factory Stores Construction Guidelines CASUAL BOTTOMS Unlined

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines CASUAL BOTTOMS INTRODUCTION:   

The Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Construction Guidelines represent the base standards for garment construction methods, terminology and components. These guidelines provide a common approach to achieve consistent construction and superlative quali ty for all Ann Taylor, Ann Taylor Loft and Ann Taylor Factory Stores apparel products. The guidelines are a resource to establish requirements for styling, garment construction and component parts. NOTE:

See Garment Specification Package for style specific construction and components.

CUTTING & MATCHING REQUIREMENTS: SHADES: 

All shades are to be individually labeled.

PLAIDS & STRIPES (Vertical and Horizontal): Plaid is to match around garment. Horizontal stripes are to match around garment.  Pockets & Flaps to match vertical and horizontal pattern (unless otherwise specified in Spec Package).  Left and right of garments are to have balanced placement.  One-way fabrics are to be cut in same direction unless otherwise specified to be “A”/”B” marker.  Style specific plaid & stripe place ment requirements are to be reviewed and documented on Development Spec Package. NOTE: Placement is to be confirmed prior to fit approval and documented in Production Spec Package.  

STANDARD GENERAL DETAILS FOR CASUAL BOTTOMS - PANTS & SKIRTS:  

Fully Lined. Stitches per Inch (SPI): Shell: 10-12 SPI

Topstitching: See Spec Package.

Lining: 10-12 SPI Lockstitch or Chainstitch

FUSIBLE INTERLINING GUIDELINES:  

All Interlinings, primary standard or otherwise, are to be tested for all fabrications to verify compatibility and performance. Following parts to be fused, unless indicated otherwise in Spec Pkg.:

* Inner & Outer Waistband - Note: Contour Waistbands, cut 2 piece fusible w/ Front and Back Waistband fusible parts cut on “Straight Grain” (Waistband Fusible Quality Options: Outer Waistband: Kufner #R861 /PCC #1061 Inner Waistband: Kufner #V401 / PCC #2610) * Waist Facing * Zipper Setting + Fly Facing& Extension * Pocket Edge + Pocket Setting

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines STANDARD CONSTRUCTION GUIDELINES SECTION (PAGES 6-15): PANT LEG PRE-CREASE: NOTE:

See Spec Package for style details - Crease OR NO Crease.

B9-1 Pre-Crease Leg

Front Leg

Front

Front

NO Crease from Waist to Thigh line

Back Leg

Thigh Line

g e L f o r te n e C

Note: Crease Leg to Thigh Line Only

C

g e L f o r te n e

Align Outsesam & Inseam edge from Knee to Leg Opening

Crease along center of Leg

Center of leg is at "right angle" to Hem l ine.

At "final" pressing: Position along Front leg crease prior to pressing Back Leg crease. Note: Inseam and Outseam are aligned from Knee to Leg Opening.

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines PANT CONSTRUCTION METHODS: NOTE:

See Specification Package for “Construction Method”. Thread / Needle size compatible with fabric quality.

• •

Method 1

Seam Type • •

Method 2

Seam Type • •

Method 3

•

•

Lockstitch; Closed w/ Overedge Lockstitch; Closed w/Overedge (Double stitch base of Rise)

Seam Type •

Method 6

Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge Safety Stitch

Seam Type •

Method 5

Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge Chainstitch; Open w/ Overedge

Seam Type •

Method 4

Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge (double stitch base of Rise)

Chainstitch; Closed w/ Overedge

Seam Type •

Safety Stitch

Seam • •

Seam Type

JEANS

• •

Safety Stitch Felled Seam

Pressing (Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.)

Outseam Front Rise

Inseam Back Rise

•

•

•

•

Seam • •

Outseam Front Rise

• •

Outseam Front Rise

•

Inseam • Back Rise

•

Outseam • Front Rise


•

Outseam • Front Rise


•

Outseam Front Rise


•

•

Open press Press toward wearer’s left (Exception: Menswear Fly Closure, pressed toward wearer’s right)

•

Press toward back Press toward wearer’s left (Exception: Menswear Fly Closure, pressed toward wearer’s right)

Pressing (Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.) •

Seam •

Open press Open Press – above rise curve


Seam •

•


Seam •

Open press Open press – above rise curve

Pressing (Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.) Inseam • Back Rise •

Seam

•

Method 7

Overedge stitch width 1/8” minimum.

•

•



•


Seam


Outseam • Front Rise • Inseam

•

•

Back Rise • Back Yoke •

•

• •

Press toward back Rises: Felled seam on wearer’s left (Exception: Menswear Fly Closure, seam on wearer’s right) Inseam: Felled seam on Front Leg Back Yoke seam direction per Design Details

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines SKIRT CONSTRUCTION METHODS: NOTE:

See Specification Package for “Construction Method”. Thread / Needle size compatible with fabric quality.

• •

Method 1

Seam Type

Overedge stitch width 1/8” minimum.

•

Seam


•

Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge

• •

Method 2

Seam Type

Side seams Panel seams

Center Back Center Front

•

•

Open press

•

Seam


•

Chainstitch; Open w/ Overedge

• •

Method 3

Seam Type

Side seams Panel seams

Seam

Center Back Center Front

•

•

Open press

•


•

Lockstitch; Closed w/ Overedge

• • • •

Method 4

Seam Type

Side seams Center Back Center Front Panel seams

Seam

• • • •

Press toward back Press toward wearer’s left Press toward wearer’s right Press toward center


•

Chainstitch; Closed w/ Overedge

• • • •

Method 5

Seam Type


Seam

• • • •



•

Safety Stitch

• • • •

Method 6

Seam Type


Seam

• • • •



•

French Seam

• • •

Side seams Center Back Panel seams

• • •

Press toward back Press toward wearer’s left Press toward center

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED & UNLINED PANTS & SKIRTS: Lockstitch - Open Press w/Overedge Finish

A1-1 Lockstitch w/Overedge finish - Open Press

Chainstitch – Open Press w/ Overedge Finish Seam Details • 1/2” seam allowance

Seam Details • 1/2” seam allowance

Open Press •

•

•

Overedge

Lockstitch

Lockstitch

Overedge at raw edge Lockstitch

•

Overedge at raw edge

•

2-Thread Chainstitch

Open Press

(top side of stitch)

Open Press (Above rise curve)

Overedge

Chainstitch (under side)

•

Overedge

(Note: If Topstitched, press to one side of seam. See Spec Pkg.)

Lockstitch - Closed w/ Overedge

A1-5 Lockstitch; Closed w/Overedge (press to one side)

A1-2 Chainstitch w/ Overedge finish - (Open press)

(Note: If Topstitched, press to one side of seam. See Spec Pkg.)

Safety Stitch Seam Details • 3/8” to ½” seam allowance

Seam Details • 3/8” seam allowance

A1-6 Safety Stitch (5-Thread) Press to One Side (see Spec Pkg)

•

•

•

Lockstitch Closed w/ Overedge

Press to one side (See Construction Methods Chart / Spec Pkg.)

Lockstitch

Press to one side (see Construction Methods Chart or Spec Pkg.)

Safety Stitch (Combination of Single Needle Chainstitch + Overedge Stitch)

•

Close w/ Overedge

Open Press (above rise curve)

Chainstitch

•

Shell seams

•

Lining seams

(under side) (top side of stitch)

Overedge Stitch

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED & UNLINED PANTS & SKIRTS: Felled Seam w/ Chainstitch

Felled Seam w/ Lockstitch

A1-20 Felled seam - Chainstitched Outside of Garment

Inside of Garment

Seam Details •

Lapped Seam (Raw edges enclosed)

•

1/4” to 3/8”seam allowance

•

2-Thread Chainstitch

Chain Stitch

A1-21 Felled seam - Lockstitched Outside View

Inside View

Seam Details •

Lapped Seam (Raw edges enclosed)

•

1/4” to 3/8” seam allowance

•

Lockstitch

Lockstitch

Cross Section Through Stitch

Through Stitch

Cross Section Through Stitch

Seam allowances inter-lap

Through Stitch

Seam allowances inter-lap

Lockstitch; Raw Edge Seam Details Seam Types: Waistband / Waist Edge, Pocket Edge •

1/4” seam allowance

•

Edge seams

A1-0a Lockstitch; Raw Edge - (press to one side)

•

Lockstitch

Raw Edge

Lockstitch

•

Internal seams (i.e. Waistband / Waist Edge, Pocket Flap)

A2-0a Dart Seam w/ Lockstitch Single Point

•

Lockstitch

•

Press dart toward Center Front / Center Back

•

Run off Dart Point w/ ½” tail.

•

No dimpling at Dart Point

•

Follow Dart marker

Back Tack

*Follow Dart Guide on pattern

When pressed to one side

(See Construction Methods Chart or Spec Pkg.)

Darts

1/2" Tail

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED & UNLINED PANTS & SKIRTS: Stay-Stitch (Pre-Stitch) Hip Curve

Inseam – for patterns w/ Back Inseam shorter than Front Inseam. Seam Details

B9-2 Hip Curve Stay-Stitch

F ro nt Seam Line Staystitch 1/16" from Seamline

Back

PANT: Outseam

* NOTE: For patterns w/ Back Inseam shorter than Front Inseam from Rise to Knee

SKIRT: Side Seam

Front Rise

Back Rise

Seam Line •

Staystitch 1/16" from Seamline

Seam Details

B9-3 Inseam from Rise to Knee

(align edge @ seam)

Lockstitch

Stitch in seam allowance (approx. 1/16” from seam line) •

m a e s n I

m a e s n I

(match notches)

Knee

(match notches)

Stretch Back Inseam evenly to match Front Inseam

Knee

•

½” Seam allowance (unless noted otherwise in spec pkg.)

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines STANDARD LEG OPENING FINISHES: Full Bendback & Topstitched

Clean Finish (Partial Bendback) & Topstitched

A15-1 Hem w/Full Bendback; Topstitch Outside Garment

A15-2 Hem w/Clean Finish (Partial Bendback) &Topstitched

Inside Garment Outside Garment

Inside Garment Topstitch

Topstitch

Full Bendback

Overedge Finish & Topstitched

Overedge Finish & Blindstitch

A15-3 Hem w/Overedge; Bendback; Topstitched Outside Garment Topstitch

Inside Garment Overedge

A15-6 Hem w/ Overedge; Bendback; Blindstitch Outside Garment Blindstitch

Inside Garment Overedge

(No deep stitch pick ) 1:1 stitch ratio

Blindstitch requirements: • Machine should be set to 1:1 stitch ratio • Do not use skipstitch function ( 2:1 or 3:1) unless specified by Technical Design. Overlap blindstitch by 1” and lock tail either by tacking or by using a self locking blindstitch machine. (Treasure Co. produces such a machine) • • Recommended Needles: Groz-Beckert V-Needle size 65. Needle will be relevant to fabric. • Recommended Thread Quality: Amann Serafil 200/2 ( www.amann-online.de ). Thread quality will be relevant to fabric.

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines STANDARD LEG OPENING FINISHES (continued) Cuff w/ 2 Tacks (for Narrow Leg Opening) A15-9a Cuffed Hem w/ 2 Tacks - Hem Tape & Blindstitch (Inseam & Outseam) Outside Garment

A15-9b Cuffed Hem w/ 2 Tacks - Overedge & Blindstitch (Inseam & Outseam)

m a e S

Hem Tape & Blindstitch

Outside Garment

Inside Garment m a e S

Stitch-tack

e S

Overedge & Blindstitch

at Seams (under cuff)

Inside Garment

m a

m a e S

Stitch-tack at Seams (under cuff)

CUFF

CUFF Hem Tape & Blindstitch (No deep stitch pick; 1:1 stitch ratio)

Overedge Finish & Blindstitch (No deep stitch pick; 1:1 stitch ratio)

Cuff w/ 4 Tacks (for Wide Leg Opening)

A15-10a Wide Cuffed Hem w/ 4 Tacks - Hem Tape & Blindstitch (Inseam, Outseam & Leg center) Outside Garment m a e S

Hem Tape & Blindstitch

Stitch-tack at Seams, Frt & Bk Creases (under Cuff)

A15-10b Wide Cuffed Hem w/ 4 Tacks - Overedge Finish (Inseam, Outseam & Leg center) Outside Garment

Inside Garment

m a e S

m a e S

CUFF

Hem Tape & Blindstitch (No deep stitch pick; 1:1 stitch ratio)

Overedge Finish & Blindstitch

Inside Garment

Stitch-tack at Seams, Frt & Bk Creases (under Cuff)

m a e S

CUFF

Overedge Finish & Blindstitch (No deep stitch pick; 1:1 stitch ratio)

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines STANDARD BUTTON SETTING: • •

Button Placement aligned at Buttonhole outer end. Leather and Suede - Stay button for all “functional” buttons.

•

B8-3 Outside Button Setting

* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per spec pkg

Outside Button: * Set w/ Lockstitch machine * Thread Shank w/ wrap (except Button w/ self shank) * Logo Buttons set w/ logo in same direction. Button Setting: * 2-Hole Button: Align 2 holes w/ Buttonhole. * 4-Hole Button: Set w/ "X" stitch (unless specified otherwise).

B8-4 Inside Button Setting * NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per spec pkg

Inside Button:

* * * *

2-Hole Button; Dyed to Match; Matte Finish Set w/ 2 holes aligned w/ buttonhole Stitch through inner layer only.

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines STANDARD INSIDE BUTTONHOLE TYPES & PLACEMENT: Ann Taylor Stores For Waistband Height up to 1 ½” wide

For Waistband Height wider than 1 ¾”

B8-5 Keyhole Inside Buttonhole - Waistband Height up to 1 1/2" Center Buttonhole on Waistband

Center Buttonhole on Waistband

B8-6 Keyhole Inside Buttonhole - Waistband Height 1 3/4" or wider


Set Buttonhole 3/4" down from top edge of Waistband


NOTE: See Spec Pkg for: * Waistband / Garment Opening (with or without Inside Extension) * Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg

NOTE: See Spec Pkg for * Waistband / Garment Opening (with or without Inside Extension) * Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg

LOFT & Factory Stores For Waistband Height up to 1 ½” wide

For Waistband Height wider than 1 ¾”

B8-7 Straight Inside Buttonhole - Waistband Height up to 1 1/2"



B8-8 Straight Inside Buttonhole - Waistband Height 1 3/4" or wider


NOTE: See Spec Pkg for: * Waistband / Garment Opening (with or without Inside Extension) * Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg

STYLE SPECIFIC CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS (PAGES 16 – 62)



NOTE: See Spec Pkg for * Waistband / Garment Opening (with or without Inside Extension) * Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines ZIPPER CLOSURES: A4-1a Lapped Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom

*Waistband/ Waist Finish per Spec Pkg

Invisible Zipper:

⇒

“Sealed” at bottom

A4-4a Invisible Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom

A4-2a Kissing Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom

A4-3a Exposed Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom



Length: ⇒ 1 1/2” longer than Opening

Order to length do not cut to length.

⇒

A4-a Invisible Zipper Interlining Pant / Skirt:

Seam Line

Inside of Waistband Interlining Width: 1/4" beyond seam line


A4-b Invisible Zipper setting w/ Waistband w/ Zipper to top edge

* Clip seam allowance at 1" from opening edge. * Open press Waistband seam allowance 1".

Bottom of Zipper

Press seam allowance toward Waistband Interlining Length: 1" beyond Zipper Opening

A4-4a Invisible Zipper Inner Construction; LINED

A4-4a Invisible Zipper - Open Seam Inner Construction; UNLINED

A4-4a Invisible Zipper - Closed Seam Inner Construction; UNLINED

Inside of Garment Shell Inside of Garment

Zipper Tail 1" to 1 1/2" longer than Zipper Opening Sealed End

Sealed End

Lining

Zipper Sealed End * Stitch Zipper Tape tail to one seam allowance

Zipper Tail 1" to 1 1/2" longer than Zipper Opening

* Stitch Zipper Tape tail to one seam allowance

*BIAS Skirts: Do not stitch Zipper Tail to seam allowance.

* Stitch Zipper Tape tail to one seam allowance Zipper Tail 1 to 1 1/2" longer than Zipper Opening



Open Press for Zipper Setting

Lockstitch * Safety Stitch seam from 2 1/2" below Zipper Tail * Press to Back or Wearer's Left Back

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines FLY CLOSURES: Fly Closure - Shaped Fly Extension, with Waistband: NOTE: • Sketch for Fly Construction only. •

See Spec Package for: Inside Waist Finish Outside Closure

B4-10a Shape Fly Extension w/ Waistband Standard Measurements

B4-1 Shaped Fly Extension w/Waistband; Lined & Unlined Outside of Garment

Inside of Garment

* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg Imaginary Fly seam line

Inside of Garment

Inside top edge: 1/8" below outside top edge

2 1/2"

Raw edge

2 1/2" Wearer's Left

Clean Finish •

Zipper Placement: Top: ¼” maximum down from seam. Bottom: ¼” maximum up from Fly stitch.

m a

Edgestitch

Backstitch or Edgestitch (per Spec Pkg)

e

S yl F

Backstitch or Edgestitch * See Spec Pkg

Zipper Teeth set 3/8" from Front Edge * Reinforce Fly Opening w/ Stitch-tack or Bartack * Upper tack to be maximum 1/8" above Zipper Head (w/ zipper fully open)

1 1/4"

Fly Closure - Shaped Fly Extension, without Waistband NOTE: • Sketch for Fly Construction only. •

•

See Spec Package for: Inside Waist Finish Outside Closure Zipper Placement: Top: ¼” maximum down from seam. Bottom: ¼” maximum up from Fly stitch.

B4-10b Shaped Fly Extension w/o Waistband Standard Measurments

Outside of Garment

Inside of Garment

Facing

2 1/2"

B4-2 Shaped Fly Extension w/Facing; Lined & Unlined

Inside top edge: 1/8" below outside top edge

Inside of Garment

* NOTE: Waist Facing Finish per Spec Pkg

Buttonhole Type per Standard w/ Button Closure

Wearer's Left

Wearer's Left

Edgestitch Clean Finish m a e


S yl F

1 1/4"

Zipper Teeth set 3/8" from Front Edge


* Reinforce Fly Opening w/ Stitch-tack or Bartack * Upper tack to be maximum 1/8" above Zipper Head (w/ zipper fully open)

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines FLY CLOSURES: (continued) Fly Closure: 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension; Clean Finish at bottom (with Waistband & Waistband Extension options): B4-5a 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Clean finish at bottom Inside Waistband Extension w/ Straight End

NOTE: • Sketch for Fly Construction only. •

•

B4-11a Straight Fly Extension Width w/ Waist Band

See Spec Package for: Finish at bottom of Fly Extension Inside Waist Finish Inside / Outside Waistband Extension Outside Closure

1 1/2" Wide, Top to Bottom

m a e S yl F

Outside of Garment * NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg

Inside of Garment

1 1/2" Inside Extension

Clean Finish

Edgestitch

Fold


* Reinforce Fly Opening w/Stitch-tack or Bartack * Upper tack to be maximum 1/8" above Zipper Head (w/ zipper fully open)


Clean Finish

B4-5b 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Clean finish bottom Inside Waistband Extension w/Pointed End

B4-5c 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Clean finish at bottom No Inside Extension

Outside of Garment

Outside of Garment

* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg


Inside of Garment

Inside of Garment 3/4" Point 1" Extension to corner

Clean Finish

Edgestitch

Fold

Fold



Clean Finish

* See Spec Pkg for Waistband Extension (spec, straight vs pointed end)

* Reinforce Fly Opening w/Stitch-tack or Bartack * Upper tack to be maximum 1/8" above Zipper Head (w/ zipper fully open) Clean Finish

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines FLY CLOSURES: (continued) Fly Closure: 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension; Overedge Stitch at bottom (with Waistband & Waistband Extension options):

NOTE: • Sketch for Fly Construction only. •

•


B4-15a 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Overedge at bottom; Inside Waistband Extension w/Straight End Outside of Garment * NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg



m a e S yl F

Inside of Garment

1 1/2" Inside Extension

Clean Finish

Edgestitch

Fold




Overedge Stitch

B4-15b 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Overedge bottom Inside Waistband Extension w/Pointed End

B4-15c 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Overedge at bottom No Inside Extension

Outside of Garment

Outside of Garment



Inside of Garment

Inside of Garment 3/4" Point 1" Extension to corner

Clean Finish

Edgestitch

Fold

Fold



* See Spec Pkg for Waistband Extension (spec, straight vs pointed end)

* Reinforce Fly Opening w/Stitch-tack or Bartack * Upper tack to be maximum 1/8" above Zipper Head (w/ zipper fully open) Overedge Stitch

Overedge Stitch

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines FLY CLOSURES: (continued) Straight 2-Piece Fly Extension (with Waistband & Waistband Extension options):

NOTE: • Sketch for Fly Construction only.


B4-6a 2-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Inside Waistband Extension - Straight End Outside of Garment * NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg

•

•

Inside of Garment



m a e S yl F


1 1/2" Inside Extension Edgestitch

Clean Finish



B4-6b 2-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Inside Waistband Extension - Point End

Seam w/ Backstitch OR Edgestitch

B4-6c 2-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Outside Waistband Extension

Outside of Garment

Outside of Garment



Inside of Garment

Inside of Garment 3/4" Point 1" Extension to corner Clean Finish

Edgestitch

Edgestitch Seam w/ Backstitch or Edgestitch

Seam w/ Backstitch or Edgestitch * See Spec Pkg for Waistband Extension (spec, straight vs pointed end)





Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines FLY CLOSURES: (continued) Fly Closure - Straight Fly Extension, without Waistband NOTE: • Sketch for Fly Construction only.

B4-11b Straight Fly Extension Width w/ Facing

Ladies Button Fly Closure B4-9 Button Fly Ladies Closure Outside of Garment

Edgestitch •

•

See Spec Package for: Finish at bottom of Fly Extension Inside Waist Finish Outside Closure

Waist Seam

a m S e s t i a W

NOTE: Facing Finish per Spec Pkg. m a e S yl F


Inside of Garment

Waist Seam

Fold


* Bartack to reinforce Fly Opening * Upper tack to be maximum 1/8" above Zipper Head (w/ zipper fully open)

Fashion Fly Closures B4-4 Shaped Fly Extension w/Binding Finish

B4-3 Shaped Fly Extension w/Binding Edge Finish Outside of Garment

Outside of Garment

* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg.


Inside of Garment

Wearer's Left

Clean Finish Edgestitch


Inside of Garment

Full Clean Finish Binding

Full Clean Finish Binding

Clean Finish Backstitch or Edgestitch * See Spec Pkg


Edgestitch


Wearer's Left Backstitch or Edgestitch. See Spec Pkg.


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines Ladies Fly Closure & Men’s Fly Closures: B4-12a Ladies Fly Closure w/ Waistband Outside of Garment - Closed

NOTE: Waistband w/ or w/o Topstitching. See Spec Pkg.

B4-13a Men's Fly Closure w/ Waistband * Note: All Construction Reverse of Ladies Closure

Outside of Garment - Closed

NOTE: Waistband w/ or w/o Topstitching. See Spec Pkg.

B4-12b Ladies Fly Closure w/ Facing Outside of Garment - Closed

NOTE: Facing w/ or w/o Topstitching. See Spec Pkg.

B4-13a Men's Fly Closure w/ Facing * Note: All Construction Reverse of Ladies Closure

Outside of Garment - Closed

NOTE: Facing w/ or w/o Topstitching. See Spec Pkg.

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines WAISTBAND OPTIONS – CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH:

B1 Waistband Closed w/ Crackstitch Finish Outside Views a. Waistband w/ Straight Front Edge

b. Waistband w/ Straight Outside Extension

Crackstitch

Crackstitch

c. Waistband w/ Pointed Outside Extension

Crackstitch

e g d E g ni n e p O

n e p O

e g d E g ni

E g ni n e p O

e g d

Clean Finish at Inside Edge B1-1a Contour Waistband - Clean Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)

B1-1b Straight Waistband - Clean Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)

Inside View

Inside View Inner Construction

Inner Construction See Spec Pkg for shape at end of Waistband

Backstitch

Turn Back

Crackstitch

Crackstitch Inner Waistband

e p O

g k P c e p S e e S( e g d E g ni n

)

Clean Finish

Turn Back

See Spec Pkg for Waistband end

Turn Back Edge

Inner Waistband

Stay Tape )

Top edge seam

P c e

p S

Seam allowance Outer WB

e e e

(S g d E g ni n e p O

g k

Top edge Clean Finish

Turn Back Edge


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines WAISTBAND – CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH (continued): Overedge Finish at Inside Edge

B1-2a Contour Waistband - Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/ Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)

B1-2b Straight Waistband - Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/ Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining) Inside View

Inside View

Inner Construction

Inner Construction See Spec Pkg for Waistband end

Backstitch

Overedge

Crackstitch

Inner Waistband

)

e e S( e g d E g ni n e p O

g k P c e p S

Clean Finish

Overedge

Top edge seam Outer WB


Overedge Crackstitch

Stay Tape

Inner Waistband

)

p S e e S( e g d E g ni n e p O

Seam allowance

g k P c e

Top edge Clean Finish

Overedge Outer WB

Seam allowance

Binding Finish at Inside Edge B1-3a Contour Waistband-Binding Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)

B1-3b Straight Waistband-Binding Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)

Inside View

Inside View Inner Construction


Backstitch Crackstitch Top edge seam

)

p O

P c e p S e e S( e g d E g ni n e

g k

Clean Finish 3/16" Binding

Inner Construction Binding

Outer WB

Inner Waistband

Binding


Crackstitch

Stay Tape

Inner Waistband Top edge

)

Seam allowance

e e S( e g d E g ni n e p O

g k P c e p S


Outer WB

Seam allowance

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines WAISTBAND – CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH (continued): Curtain Finish at Inside Edge (Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.) B1-5 Straight Waistband w/Curtain Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/ Crackstitch Inside View Inner Construction

Self Waistband See Spec Pkg for Waistband end

Curtain Binding

)

g ni n e p O

g k P c e p S e e S( e g d E

Inner Waistband Crackstitch

Bias set in seam Outer WB

Seam allowance

Stay Tape

WAISTBAND OPTIONS – CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH & TOPSTITCHED: •

See Spec Package “Design Details” for Topstitching Details (Single or Double Needle).

B1-6 Waistband closed w/ Crackstitch & Topstitched Outside Views a. Waistband w/ Straight Front Edge


Crackstitch

Crackstitch e g d E g ni n e p O


Crackstitch g d E g ni n e p O

e


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines WAISTBAND OPTIONS – CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH & TOPSTITCHED: Clean Finish at Inside Edge B1-7a Contour Waistband-Clean Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/ Crackstitch; Topstitched

Inside View

B1-7b Straight Waistband-Clean Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/ Crackstitch; Topstitched Inside View

Topstitch (see Spec Pkg)


Inner Construction

Inner Construction Backstitch

See Spec Pkg for shape at end of Waistband Ope nin g Edg e

Raw Edge Inner Waistband Turn Back Edge

Crackstitch

Seam allowance

Outer WB

* See Spec Pkg for Closure

Raw Edge

Backstitch Inner Waistband

Stay Tape

Top Edge

Clean Finish

See Spec Pkg for shape at end of Waistband


Top edge Crackstitch Clean Finish

Turn Back Edge

Seam allowance

Outer WB


Overedge at Inside Edge B1-8a Contour Waistband-Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/Crackstitch; Topstitched Inside View

B1-8b Straight Waistband-Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/Crackstitch; Topstitched Inside View




Backstitch Overedge Inner Waistband

Clean Finish

Top Edge

Crackstitch Overedge e g d E g ni n e p O

Backstitch

Inner Construction Overedge Inner Waistband

Stay Tape Clean Finish

Top edge

Crackstitch Overedge





Outer WB * See Spec Pkg for Closure

Seam allowance

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines WAISTBAND OPTIONS – CLOSED W/ EDGESTITCH:

B1-9 Waistband closed w/ Edgestitch Outside Views a. Waistband w/ Straight Front Edge


Crackstitch




O

e g d E g ni n e p

Clean Finish at Inside Edge B1-10a Contour Waistband - Clean Finish Inside Edge; Closed w/ Edgestitch Inside View

Inner Construction Raw Edge

Clean Finish e

g d E g ni n p O

e

Inside View

Edgestitch all around


Turn Back Edge

B1-10b Straight Waistband - Clean Finish Inside Edge; Closed w/ Edgestitch

Inner Waistband

Inner Construction


Raw Edge Turn Back Edge

Stay Tape

Top Edge

Outer WB


Inner Waistband Top edge

Clean Finish Seam allowance E g ni n e

e g d

p O

Outer WB

Seam allowance

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines WAISTBAND OPTIONS – CLOSED W/ EDGESTITCH (continued): Overedge Finish at Inside Edge w / Edgestitch B1-11a Contour Waistband - Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/Edgestitch Inside View

Inside View


Inner Construction


g d E g ni n e p O

Inner Construction Overedge Inner Waistband

Stay Tape Clean Finish

Top Edge

Top edge Overedge

Overedge Seam allowance

Outer WB

e



Overedge

Inner Waistband Clean Finish

B1-11b Straight Waistband - Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/Edgestitch

p O

Seam allowance

Outer WB

e g d E g ni n e

Clean Finish at Inside Edge w / 1/8” Topstitch B1-12a Contour Waistband-Clean Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/ 1/8" Topstitched Inside View

B1-12b Straight Waistband-Clean Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/ 1/8" Topstitched Inside View

1/8" Topstitch

1/8" Topstitch

Inner Construction


Backstitch Raw Edge


Raw Edge

Backstitch Inner Waistband

Inner Waistband e g d E g ni n e p

Turn Back Edge

Top Edge

Clean Finish

O


Stay Tape

Outer WB

Seam allowance

E g ni n e p O

Top edge

e g d

Clean Finish * See Spec Pkg for Closure

Turn Back Edge

Outer WB

Seam allowance

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines WAIST FACING OPTIONS: B2-1 Waist Facing w/Overedge, Bendback & Edgestitch Finish

B2-2 Waist Facing w/Overedge Finish

Inside View

Inside View

Backstitch

Waist Facing

Backstitch

Inner Construction Overedge, Turnback & Edgestitch

Bottom Edge of Facing

E g ni n e p O

Overedge, Bendback & Edgestitch

Inside of Waist Facing

Backstitch

Stay Tape

Waist Join Seam n e p O

B2-3 Waist Facing w/Binding Finish; (w/ or w/o Lining) Inside View Backstitch

Inner Construction Waist Facing

Binding @ Facing Edge

)

e p O

P c e p S e e S( e g d E g ni n

g k

Inside of Waist Facing


Backstitch Facing Seam

Stay Tape

Inner Construction Overedge Facing Edge

).

g k P c e p S e e S( e g d

Waist Facing

g k P c e p S e e S( e g d E g ni

.)

Inside of Waist Facing Clean Finish

Overedge Backstitch Waist Join Seam

Stay Tape

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines OTHER WAIST EDGE FINISHING OPTIONS:

B2-5a Waist Edge Finished w/ Binding; Edgestitched (w/ or w/o Lining) Outside View

Inside View

Binding Fold

).

O p e n in g

e p S e e S( e g d E g ni n e p O

E d g e (S e e S p e c P k g

Edgestitch

.)

g k P c

Inner Construction Binding

Edgestitch

Inside of Waist Binding

Fold

Top Edge of Binding

Top Edge

Stay Tape Edgestitch

Waist Join Seam

B2-5b Waist Edge Finished w/ Binding; Crackstitched (w/ or w/o Lining) Outside View

Inside View O p e n

Binding Fold

Crackstitch

Inner Construction

). in g E d g e (S e e S p e

.)

c P k g

S( e g d E g ni n e p O

g k P c e p S e e

Crackstitch

Inside of Waist Binding

Fold

Top Edge of Binding

Top Edge

Stay Tape Waist Join Seam

Crackstitch

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines BELT LOOPS OPTIONS:

B3-2 Clean Finish @ Bottom; Single Bendback @ Top w/Bartack

B3-1 Clean Finish @ Top; Single Bendback @ Bottom w/Bartack

(3) Single Bendback

(2) Reverse bendback

(1) Stitch-tack

B3-3b Clean Finish Top & Bottom Outside Stitch-tack @ Top

(4) Bartack

(5) Outside Stitch-tack

(4) Reverse Bendback

(3) Inside Stitch-tack

(3) Single bendback

(4) Bartack

(1) Stitch-tack

B3-3c Clean Finish Top & Bottom Inside Stitch-tack (4) Reverse Bendback



(4) Outside Bartack


(3) Single Bendback

(1) Set into Waistband


(1) Stitch-tack


B3-5 Set in @ Waistband Join Seam Outside Bartack - Top

B3-4 Set in @ Waistband Join Seam Outside Bartack - Top & Bottom (3) Single Bendback

(1) Stitch-tack


(2) Outside Bartack

(2) Inside Stitch-tack or Bartack

(4) Outside Bartack

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines BELT LOOPS OPTIONS: B3-6 Set in @ Waistband Join Seam; Clean Finish @ Top - Inside Stitch-tack (4) Reverse Bendback

B3-7 Set in @ Waistband Join Seam; Clean Finish @ Top w/Outside Bartack


(3) Stitch-tack

(5) Outside Bartack


(3) Stitch tack


B3-8 Set in @ Waistband Join Seam; Clean Finish @ Top - Outside Bartack Top & Bottom

(3) Stitch-tack

(5) Outside Stitch-tack


(2) Stitch tack or Bartack

(2) Stitch-tack or Bartack



(3) Stitch-tack



B3-7b Set in @ Waistband Join Seam; Clean Finish @ Top - Outside Stitch-tack

B3-9 Set in @ Top Edge; Clean Finish @ Bottom - Inside Stitch-tack

(2) Stitch-tack or Bartack

B3-10b Set in @ Top Edge; Clean Finish @ Bottom - Top Outside Stitch-tack (4) Bartack

(5) Bartack



(2) Stitch-tack

(2) Bartack

(2) Stitch-tack


(4) Stitch-tack


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines BELT LOOPS OPTIONS (Continued): A12-2 Coverstitched-Belt Loop

B3-12 Set in Top Edge & Waistband Join Seam

A12-1a Tubular-Belt Loop

A12-1b Tubular-Belt Loop

Set into Waistband

Top side

Press w/ Seam centered Set into Waistband

Seam at edge.

Inside Stitch-tack

A12-3a Folder Finish-Belt Loop

A12-4a Crochet Belt Loop/ Tear Drop (at seam)

Seam

Under side

A12-4b Crochet Belt Loop / Tear Drop (at edge)

A12-3b Wide Folder Finish - Belt Loop

A12-4c Crochet Belt Loop/ Tear Drop (set in Seam)

A12-4d Crochet Belt OpenLoop (set in Seam)

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines WELT POCKET OPTIONS: Welt Pockets - 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Darts

w/ 1+1 Back Darts

B5-1a Back Welt Pocket No Edgestitch

w/ 2+2 Back Darts

B5-1b Back Welt Pocket w/ Edgestitch

B5-1d Back Welt Pocket w/ Edgestitch

B5-1c Back Welt Pocket no Edgestitch

Outside of Garment

Outside of Garment

Outside of Garment

Outside of Garment Note: w/ or w/o Waistband

Note: w/ or w/o Waistband

* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch




Besom Pockets - 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Darts

w/ 1+1 Back Darts

B5-2a Back Besom Pocket No Edgestitch Outside of Garment Note: w/ or w/o Waistband


w/ 2+2 Back Darts

B5-2b Back Besom Pocket w/ Edgestitch Outside of Garment Note: w/ or w/o Waistband


B5-2c Back Besom Pocket no Edgestitch Outside of Garment Note: w/ or w/o Waistband


B5-2d Back Besom Pocket w/ Edgestitch Outside of Garment Note: w/ or w/o Waistband


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines BESOM POCKET OPTIONS: Welt & Besom Pockets - Front Pockets Horizontal or Angled (See Design Sketch).

B5-1e Front - Welt Pocket - No Edgestitch

B5-1f Front Welt Pocket - w/ Edgestitch Outside of Garment

B5-2e Front Besom Pocket - B5-2f Front Besom Pocket w/ Edgestitch no Edgestitch Outside of Garment

Outside of Garment

Outside of Garment





POCKET BAGS FOR WELT & BESOM POCKET: Pocket Bag Terms: Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment. • • Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag. Pocket Bag for Back Welt & Besom Pocket -

Pocket Bag for Back Welt & Besom Pocket - Clean Finish Top & Under Pocket Bag:

B5-a Regular Length Pkt Bag set in Waist / Waistband stitch

Length: 4 1/2" from upper Welt seam

B5-b Short Length Pkt Bag set in Waist / Waistband stitch

1) Full Self OR 2) w/Applied Self Facing (see Spec Pkg Detail sketch)

B5-e Short Length

Pkt Bag set in Waist / Waistband stitch

Top & Under Pocket Bag:


Upper Seam Version 2: Self-Facing


B5-d Regular Length

1) Full Self Pocket Bag OR 2) w/Applied Self Facing (see Spec Pkg Detail sketch)

Upper Seam Length: 4 1/2" from upper Welt seam

* Clean finish * Seam allowance enclosed



Facing Applied onto Pocket Bag

Version 2: Self-Facing


Fold

Backtack corner

Fold

Backtack corner

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines BESOM & WELT POCKET OPTIONS: Vertical or Angled Besom & Welt Pockets

B5-3a Vertical Besom Pocket no Edgestitch Outside of Garment

B5-3b Vertical Besom Pocket w/ Edgestitch Outside of Garment Note: w/ or w/o Waistband


Outside of Garment

B5-3d Vertical Welt Pocket w/ Edgestitch Outside of Garment Note: w/ or w/o Waistband


m a e S

m a e S

m a e S

w/ or w/o Bartack See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch

B5-3c Vertical Welt Pocket no Edgestitch

m a e S




Vertical Welt & Besom Pocket - Inside of Garment Inside of Garment

Pocket Bag Terms: • Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment. • Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.

Waist Edge

m a e S

Top & Under Pocket Bag: 1) Full Self OR 2) w/Applied Self Facing (see Spec Pkg Detail sketch)

Set Facing onto Bag

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines “ON SEAM” POCKET OPTIONS: Vertical “On Seam” Pockets Pocket Bag Terms: Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment. • • Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag. B5-4a Vertical "On Seam" Pocket - No Topstitch @ Opening w/ Inside Stitch-tack Outside of Garment w/ inside Stitch-tack

Inside of Garment


Waist Edge

B5-4a Vertical "On Seam" Pocket - No Topstitch @ Opening w/ Bartack Outside of Garment w/ Bartacks

Inside of Garment


Waist Edge

Bartack Inside Stitch-tack

See Spec Pkg for Pocket Facing type.


Inside Stitch-tack

m a e S

m a e S

B5-4b Vertical "On Seam" Pocket - Topstitch @ Opening w/ Inside Stitch-tack Outside of Garment w/ inside Stitch-tack

Inside of Garment


Waist Edge

* Topstitch Opening * See Design Detail Sketch for spacing.

Inside Stitch-tack

m a e S

Bartack

m a e S


Inside Stitch-tack a e S

m

m a e S

B5-4b Vertical "On Seam" Pocket - Topstitch @ Opening w/ Bartack Outside of Garment w/ Bartacks

Inside of Garment


Waist Edge

Bartack

* Topstitch Opening * See Design Detail Sketch for spacing.

m a e S


Bartack a

m e S

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines “ON SEAM” POCKET OPTIONS: Vertical “On Seam” Pocket Facings

B5-5a Vertical Onseam Pocket w/ Applied Facing; Inside of Garment

Pocket Bag Terms: • Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment. Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag. •

Waist Edge Under Pocket bag

Top Pocket bag

g ni c a F

S e lf

Backstitch @ Opening Edge

F a c ni g

S m a e S

Stitch-tack or Bartack See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch.

m a e

lf

e S

m a e S

Facing applied onto Pocket Bag

B5-5b Vertical Onseam Pocket w/ Self Extended Facing Inside of Garment Waist Edge

Stitch-tack or Bartack 1/2" down from Waist seam

Top & Under Facings extend from Front & Back

S

m a e

Stitch-tack or Bartack See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch.

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines “ON SEAM” POCKET OPTIONS: Horizontal / Angled “On Seam” Pockets Pocket Bag Terms: • Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment. • Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.

B5-4c Horizontal / Angled "On Seam" Pocket No Topstitch @ Opening

B5-6a On-Seam Pocket Bag - Applied Facing -for Horizontal / Angled Pocket

Inside of Garment Stitch-tack or Bartack See Spec Pkg - Detail Sketch.

Under Pocket Bag - Inside of Garment "Face" side of Under Pocket Bag

On-Seam Pocket seam

Pocket Opening Seam See Spec Pkg for Pocket Facing type.

Backstitch along inside edge

Clean Finish or Overedge

Under Pocket Bag Poc k eting

Top Pocket Bag:

1 Piece self or pocketing fabric. See Spec Pkg Trim pg.

B5-6b On-Seam Pocket Bag - 1 Piece Top & Under for Horizontal / Angled Pocket

B5-4d Horizontal / Angled "On Seam" Pocket Topstitch @ Opening Inside of Garment Stitch-tack or Bartack See Spec Pkg - Detail Sketch.

Pocket Opening

Inside of Garment Pocket Bag: Self or pocketing fabric. See Spec Pkg Trim pg.

Seam

Seam

* Edgestitch OR * Backstitch inside edge & Topstitch ** See Spec pkg

Self-Applied Facing

Pocketing


Pocket Bag

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines QUARTER TOP POCKET OPTIONS: Quarter Top Pocket w/ Waistband * Note:

See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.

B5-8a Quarter Top Pocket w/ Waistband w/ Inside Stitch-tack

B5-8b Quarter Top Pocket w/ Waistband w/ Bartack

Outside of Garment

Outside of Garment

Waistband Inside Stitch-tack 1/2" down

Waistband

Pocket Opening w/ or w/o Topstitching. See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch

Pocket Opening w/ or w/o Topstitching. See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch Bartack See Spec Pkg Detail sketch

Inside Stitch-tack 1/2" up

Pocket Bag Terms: • Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment. • Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag. B5-8c Quarter Top Pocket w/ Waistband Straight Self Facing; Open Pressed Side Seam

B5-8e Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ Waistband Shaped Self Facing; w/ Open Pressed Side Seam

B5-8d Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ Waistband Self Under Pocket Bag; Open Pressed Side Seam

Under Pocket Waistband

Under Pocket

Pocket Bag set into Waist Seam

Under Pocket Pocket Bag set into Waist seam

Waistband

Waistband

Pocket Bag set into Waist seam

Self-Quarter Top Piece; applied onto Pocket Bag See Spec Pkg for Top Pocket Bag fabrication

Lining or Pocketing fabric

m a e S e di S


Self Under Pocket Bag

e S e di S

m a

e di S



m

m

a e

S e di S

Self-Quarter Top Piece; applied onto Pocket Bag

m a e S

a e e

S di S


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines QUARTER TOP POCKET OPTIONS: Quarter Top Pocket w/ NO Waistband * Note:


B5-9a Quarter Top Pocket - No Waistband w/inside Stitch-tack

B5-9b Quarter Top Pocket - No Waistband w/ Bartack Outside of Garment

Outside of Garment

Waist Top Edge

Waist Top Edge

Inside Stitch-tack 1/2" down

Inside Stitch-tack 1/2" up



Bartack See Spec Pkg Detail sketch m a e S e di S

e S e di S

m a

Pocket Bag Terms: • •

Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment. Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.

B5-9c Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ No Waistband Straight Self Facing; Open Pressed Side Seam Under Pocket

B5-9e Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ No Waistband Shaped Self Facing; Open Pressed Side Seam

B5-9d Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ No Waistband Self Under Pocket Bag; Open Pressed Seam

Pocket Bag to Top edge

Under Pocket


Under Pocket


Waist Facing Waistband

Waist Facing



m a e S e di S


Self Under Pocket Bag

m a e S e di S

m a e S e di S


m a e S

See Spec Pkg for Top Pocket Bag fabrication

e di S


Lining or Pocketingfabric

m a e S e di S


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines QUARTER TOP POCKET OPTIONS: L-Shape * Note:


B5-11a L-Shape Pocket w/ Facing No Topstitch

B5-11c L-Shape Pocket w/ Facing Double Needle Topstitch

B5-11b L-Shape Pocket w/ Facing Single Needle Topstitch

Outside of Garment

Outside of Garment

Outside of Garment Waist Seam

Waist Seam Single Topstitch; See Spec Pkg Detail sketch

Inside Seam m a e S e di S

Waist Seam

Inside Seam

w/ or w/o Bartack; See Spec Pkg Detail sketch

Dbl Needle Topstitch See Spec Pkg Detail sketch

m a e S e di S

Pocket Bag Terms: • •


B5-11 L-Shape Pocket w/ Facing - Inside of Garment Pocket Bags - Inner View

Pocket Bag - Inside of Garment

Backstitch (except w/ Dbl Ndl Topstitch) Inside Seam Reinforcement stitch at Pocket Opening

Facing Top Pocket Bag Pocketing

S

m a e S e di

Self Applied to Pocket Bag

Under Pocket Bag Pocketing i

m a e S e d S

Under Pocket Bag a e S e di S

m

Seam or Stitched through

w/ or w/o Bartack; See Spec Pkg Detail sketch

m a e S e di S

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines QUARTER TOP POCKET OPTIONS: Quarter Top Pocket w/ Self Pocket Bag

B5-10 Quarter Top Pocket - Self Pkt Bag; Set to Shell Outside of Garment

Inside of Garment

Waist Seam

Waist Seam

Full Bendback w/ Topstitch

m a e S Under e di Pocket Bag S

Topstitch through all Layers

Topstitch through all Layers; See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch

Scoop Pocket

• Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment. • Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.

• See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitching.

B5-13 Scoop Pocket w/ Facing

B5-13 Scoop Pocket w/ Facing - Inner Construction

Outside of Garment

Inner Pocket View of Pocket Bag (before Bag is seamed)

Waist Seam

Inside of Garment Waist Seam

Backstitch Self Applied to Pocket Bag Facing Applied to Pocketing

w/ or w/o Topstitch

Under Pocket Bag m a e S e di S

Top Pocket Bag m a e S e di S

Top Pocket Bag m a e S e di S

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines QUARTER TOP POCKET BAG OPTIONS: Pocket Bag Terms & Dimensions: • •


B5-14a Regular Quarter Top Pocket Bag - w/ Waistband

B5-14b Quarter Top Pocket Bag - NO Waistband

Under Pocket

Under Pocket Pocket Bag Length x Width - Seam to Seam

Pocket Bag Length x Width - Seam to Seam 4 3/4"

4 3/4" Waist Seam

8 1/2" from Waistline position

8 1/2"

6 1/2"

6 1/2"

di S

m a e S e di S

m a e S e

B5-14c Short Pocket Bag Under Pocket Pocket Bag Length x Width - Seam to Seam 4 1/2" Waist Seam

6 1/2" 5 1/2"

m a e S e di S

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines JEAN POCKET BAG OPTIONS:

B5-12a Jean/Scoop Pocket (no Facing) - w/Bartacks

Pocket Bartack Details: •

•

•

Scoop Pocket and Coin Pocket with or without Bartack. Bartack - Vertical, Horizontal or Diagonal. See Spec Package.

B5-12c Jean Coin Pocket w/Bartacks Outside of Garment

Outside of Garment

Waist Seam Bartack

Waist Seam Pocket Bag Terms: •

•

Bartack

Bartack


Wearer's Right Pocket Bag Set to Edge

m a e st

u O

O

m a e ts u

Note: See spec pkg for Rivet/Bartack detail

B5-12b Jean/Scoop Pocket (no Facing) - w/Rivets Outside of Garment

B5-12 Jean/Scoop Pocket (no Facing)

B5-12d Jean Coin Pocket w/Rivets

Inside of Garment

Outside of Garment

Inner View - Under Pocket Bag O A R N N

L Y A

Waist Seam

Waist Seam

Waist Seam

T A

Y L N R N A

T

O

Waist Seam

O L

Y A

Rivets

Rivets

T

A

O

O

L

Y A

T

A R N N

Y L N R N A

T

R AN N

T

A

Y

L

N R N A O

O

L

Y A

T

R AN N

T

A

Y

L

N R N A

O

Rivets

Self Applied to Pocket Bag

O

L Y A

R AN N

T

A Y L N N A R

T

O

O L

Pocket Bag Set to Edge

Note: See spec pkg for Rivet/Bartack detail

Y A

T

R AN N

T

A

Y

L

N R N A

O

m a es t u O

Under Pocket Bag

m a es t u O

Wearer's Right

m a e S e di S

Fold

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines PATCH POCKET OPTIONS: * Note:

See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail B5-15a Patch Pocket-Bluff Setting; w/o Topstitch Lined or Unlined

B5-15b Patch Pocket-Bluff Setting; w/ Topstitch Lined or Unlined

Raw edge w/ or w/o Staystitch

Raw edge w/ or w/o Staystitch

Seamed inside

Seamed inside

B5-16 Patch Pocket-Topstitched Setting Rawedge w/ or w/o Overedge

Set Pocket w/ Topstitch

Single Bendback

B5-17 Patch Pocket Lined to Top Edge Lined to Top edge

Set Pocket w/ Topstitch

Lining

PATCH POCKET BENDBACK FACING OPTIONS: B5-18a Patch Pocket w/Single Bendback Facing Lined Outside View

Inside View

B5-18b Patch Pocket w/Single Bendback Facing w/ Overedge Finish & Topstitched - Unlined Outside View

1" Bendback Facing

1" Bendback Facing

Lining

B5-18c Patch Pocket w/Single Bendback Facing w/ Clean Finish & Topstitched - Unlined Outside View

Inside View

Inside View

Overedge & Topstitched

B5-18d Patch Pocket w/Full Bendback Facing - Unlined Outside View

Inside View

1" Bendback Facing

Clean Finish (bendback Facing seam allowance)

& Topstitched

Clean Finish & Topstitched

Full Bendback Facing; See Spec pkg for Topstitch detail.

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines PATCH POCKET ATTACHED FACING OPTIONS: * Note:

See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail. detail.

5-19a Patch Pocket w/Attached Facing Lined Inside View

Outside View

Outside View

Outside View

Inside View

Backstitch (if not Topstitched)

Lining

B5-19c Patch Pocket w/Attached Facing; Clean Finish & Topstitched - Unlined

5-19b Patch Pocket w/Attached Facing; Overedge Finish & Topstitched - Unlined

Backstitch (if not Topstitched) Topstitched)

See Spec Pkg for Facing Height

Inside View Backstitch (if not Topstitched)


Overedge & Topstitched

Clean Finish & Topstitched


PATCH POCKET REINFORCEMENT OPTIONS: B5-20a Patch Pocket Reinforced Corner

B5-20b Patch Pocket Reinforced Corner

B5-20c Patch Pocket Reinforced Corner

Rectangle Stitch

Diagnal Stitch

(See Spec Pkg for Pocket Shape)


Triangle Stitch


B5-20d Patch Pocket Reinforced Corner

B5-20e Patch Pocket Reinforced Corner

Horizontal Stitch

Horizontal Bartack



PATCH POCKET W/ CURVED OPENING: B5-20f Patch Pocket Reinforced Corner

B5-20g Patch Pocket Reinforced Corner

B5-22b Patch Pocket w/ Curved Opening; Self Facing - Unlined

B5-22a Patch Pocket w/ Curved Opening; Self Facing - Lined Outside of Garment

Outside of Garment

Inside of Pocket (before set)

Waist Seam

Diagonal Bartack

Vertical Bartack Self Facing


Inside of Pocket (before set)

Waist Seam


Bendback Finish

Backstitch if needed

Self Facing

Lining m a e S e id S

a e S e id S

m

m a e S e di S

m a e S e di S

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines POCKET FLAP OPTIONS: Welt Pocket w/ Flap – 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Darts * Note:


w/ 1+1 Back Darts

w/ 2+2 Back Darts

B6-1a Welt Pocket w/ Flap No Topstitch

B6-1b Welt Pocket w/ Flap w/ Topstitch Outside of Garment

Outside of Garment

Flap set in upper Welt seam

Backstitch

Underflap: Bias

Outside of Garment

Waist Seam

See Spec Pkg for Topstitch detail

Waist Seam

Backstitch

Underflap: Bias

Underflap: Bias

Flap set in upper Welt seam * w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch Sketch

B6-1d Welt Pocket w/ Flap w/ Topstitch

Outside of Garment

Waist Seam

Waist Seam

Underflap: Bias

B6-1c Welt Pocket w/ Flap No Topstitch







Besom Pocket w/ Flap – 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Darts * Note:


w/ 1+1 Back Darts

w/ 2+2 Back Darts

B6-2a Besom Pocket w/ Flap No Topstitch

B6-2b Besom Pocket w/ Flap w/ Topstitch Outside of Garment

Outside of Garment

Flap set in Besom upper Seam

* w / or w/o Bartack See spec spec pkg Detail Sketch

Under Flap: Bias

Backstitch


* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg Detail Sketch

B6-2d Besom Pocket w/ Flap w/ Topstitch Outside of Garment

Outside of Garment

Waist Seam

Waist Seam Under Flap: Bias

B6-2c Besom Pocket w/ Flap No Topstitch

Waist Seam

Waist Seam


Under Flap: Bias



Under Flap: Bias

Backstitch




Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines POCKET FLAP OPTIONS: Welt & Besom Pocket w/ Flap – Front Pockets Horizontal or Angled (See Design Sketch)

B6-1e Front Welt Pocket w/ Flap No Topstitch

B6-1f Front Welt Pocket Pocket w/ Flap Flap w/ Topstitch


Underflap: Bias

Backstitch Underflap: Bias


Outside of Garment

Backstitch

Under Flap: Bias



B6-2f Front Besom Pocket w/ Flap w/ Topstitch

Outside of Garment

Outside of Garment

Outside of Garment


B6-2e Front Besom Pocket w/ Flap No Topstitch




Under Flap: Bias


* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg Detail Sketch

POCKET BAGS FOR WELT & BESOM POCKET W/ FLAP: Pocket Bag Terms: •

•

Under Pocket Bag: Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment. Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.

Pocket Bag for Back Welt & Besom Pocket -

Pocket Bag for Back Welt & Besom Pocket - Clean Finish Top & Under Pocket Bag:

B5-a Regular Length Pkt Bag set in Waist / Waistband stitch


B5-b Short Length Pkt Bag set in Waist / Waistband stitch

1) Full Self OR 2) w/Applied Self Facing (see Spec Pkg Detail sketch)

B5-e Short Length


Top & Under Pocket Bag:


Upper Seam Version 2: Self-Facing


B5-d Regular Length

1) Full Self Pocket Bag OR 2) w/Applied Self Facing (see Spec Pkg Detail sketch)

Upper Seam Length: 4 1/2" from upper Welt seam





Version 2: Self-Facing


Fold

Backtack corner

Fold

Backtack corner

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines POCKET FLAP OPTIONS: Patch Pocket w/ Flap * Note:


B6-4a Patch Pocket w/ Flap - Topstitched Stitch-tack at Flap corners

B6-3 Bluff Patch Pocket w/Flap No Topstitch at Edge Under Flap: Bias

1/4" Topstitch w/ raw edge enclosed & Stitch-tack at ends

Raw edge enclosed

Under Flap: Bias

1/4" Topstitch w/ raw edge enclosed & Stitch-tack at ends

Raw Edge Enclosed * See Spec Pkg for Topstitch detail

B6-4b Patch Pocket w/ Flap - Topstitched Bartack at Flap corners Under Flap: Bias

1/4" Topstitch w/ raw edge enclosed & Bartack at ends

Under Flap – Bias Cut

B6-5 Under Flap Pattern & Cutting Direction Underflap: *Cut smaller than outer flap. *Cut on bias.

Raw Edge Enclosed * See Spec Pkg for Topstitch detail

Bias

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines POCKETS W/ BUTTON CLOSURE - OPTIONS: Welt & Besom Pocket w/ Button Closure •

Note:


B7-1a Welt Pocket w/ Button & Vertical Buttonhole

B7-1b Welt Pocket w/ Button & Horizontal Buttonhole Outside of Garment

Outside of Garment

* Welt w/ or w/o Edgestitch / Bartack See Spec Pkg Detail sketch

* Welt w/ or w/o Edgestitch / Bartack See Spec Pkg Detail sketch

B7-2a Besom Pocket w/ Button & Horizontal Buttonhole Outside of Garment

B7-2b Besom Pocket w/ Button & Loop Closure Outside of Garment

* Besom w/ or w/o Edgestitch / Bartack * See Spec Pkg Detail sketch

* Besom w/ or w/o Topstitch / Bartack See Spec Pkg Detail sketch

Welt & Besom w/ Flap & Button Closure B7-3a Besom Pocket w/ Vertical Wide Flap & Button Closure

Wide Flap w/ Vertical Button Hole

* w/ or without Topstitching * See Spec Pkg Design Details

B7-3b Besom Pocket w/ Narrow Flap & Button Closure

Narrow Flap w/ Horizontal Button Hole

B7-3c Welt Pocket w/ Flap & Button Closure

Wide Flap w/ Vertical Button Hole



B7-3d Welt Pocket w/ Narrow Flap & Button Closure

Narrow Flap w/ Horizontal Button Hole


Patch Pocket w/ Button Closure B7-4a Patch Pocket w/Vertical Buttonhole & Button Closure

See spec pkg for * Patch Pocket Type * Topstitch Detail * Bartack

B7-4b Patch Pocket w/Horiztonal Buttonhole & Button Closure


B7-5a Patch Pocket w/Flap Vertical Buttonhole & Button Closure


B7-5b Patch Pocket w/Flap HoriztonalButtonhole & Button Closure


Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines VENTS: A13-6 Vent-Unlined; Lapped; Topstitched A13-7 Vent-Lined-Open; Blocked Hem; Topstitched Outside Garment

A13-8 Vent-Lined-Open; Blocked Hem; No Topstitch

Inside Garment Outside Garment

Outside Garment

Inside Garment

m S

e

With or without Tack (see Spec Pkg.)

Topstitch

m

m

e

e

a

a

S

Seam

S

e

g d E t n e V

e E t n e V

m a e S k c a B tr

rt

g d

Full Dbl Bendback

C

C

Backstitch

Topstitch

Inside Garment

m a e S k c a B

a

Top of Vent Backstitch

Lining Dbl Bendback w/Topstitch Open Bottom

e g d E t n e V

Lining Dbl Bendback w/Topstitch

Open Bottom

Blocked Hem

*See spec pkg for Topstitching & Hem type

Blocked Hem

VENT & SLIT “X” TACK: NOTE:

Sketch is for “X” Tack only. See Spec pkg. for Vent style details. A13-11 Vent/ "X" Tack for Shipping

A14 Slit-"X" Tack for Shipping

Outside Garment Top of Slit m a e S

* No tack if fabric will be damaged from tack.

e g d E t

n e V

"X" Tack for Shipping

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines BINDING & PIPING FINISHES: A9-3 Piped Edge w/ or w/o Filler A6-1 Full Clean Finish w/Edgestitch

Outside of Garment

Inside of Garment Edge finished w/ Facing OR Lining Backstitch Note: No Backstitch if edge is Topstitched

Folded

Piping w/ or w/o Filler

BUTTONHOLES: A10-4a Bound Buttonhole - Clean Finish

Topside

A10-4c Bound Buttonhole - Edgestitched

A10-4b Bound Buttonhole Backed w/ Machine Buttonhole

Underside (looks same as Topside)

Topside

Topside

Underside

w/ or w/o Gimp Filler (* See Spec pkg Trim)

Topside

(looks same as Topside)

(Straight Buttonhole)

A10-1 Keyhole Buttonhole w/Bartack at end

Underside

A10-4d Bound Buttonhole - Leather

A10-2 Keyhole Buttonhole w/ Fishtail End w/ or w/o Gimp (* See Spec pkg Trim)

A10-3 Regular/Straight Buttonhole

Bartack

A10-5a On-Seam Buttonhole Horizontal

A10-5b

On-Seam Buttonhole Vertical

Seam Seam

Underside

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines ZIPPER TERMS: Note: See

Specification Pkg. for “Right” or “Left” Zipper Pull. Zipper illustrations are generic.

Common Zipper Types

Sealed at Top

Sealed End

(A) Closed end Invisible type

(A) Closed end Normal type

(B) 2 - Ended Closed

Zipper Dimension Terms

Basic Zipper Construction Terms Top Stops

Bead Teeth

Tape Width

Stringer

Tape

(D) 2 Pulls 2 Open Ends

(D) 1 Pull Open End

(C) 2 Pulls - 2 Ended Closed

Opened

Closed Retainer Pin

Cord

Slider Pull

Length of Fastener

Chain

Retainer Separable Pin Bottom Stop

Tape Ends

Chain Width

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines HOOK & EYE TYPES:

A11-1a Hook & Loop Eye

Hook & Loop Eye Setting at inside top of zipper A11-1a Setting Hook & Loop Eye at Inside Top of Zipper

Set Zipper w/Zipper Slide edge 1/4" down from finished top edge

A11-1b Hook & Straight Eye

A11-1c Hook & Loop

Hook & Thread Loop Setting at inside top of zipper

A11-1c Setting Hook & Thread Loop at Inside Top of Zipper

Set Zipper w/Zipper Slide edge 1/4" down from finished top edge

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines LOOP & FROG CLOSURES: A10-6a Crochet Button Loop Kissing Setting

A10-6b Crochet Button Loop -

A10-7b Button Loop Open Setting

Open Setting

A10-8 Folder Button Loop A10-7c Button Loop Closed Setting

A10-7a Button Loop Kissing Setting

Top Side

A10-9 Decorative / Frog Closure

Under side of Loop

OTHER CLOSURES:

A11-2a Hook & Bar

A11-2b Hook & Bar

A11-3 Hook & Loop Tape

a. Machine Set

b. Hand Set * Note: Reinforce w/ Self or Interlining

Hook Tape

Loop Tape

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines DECORATIVE STITCHES: DST-1 Pearl Stitch

DST-2 Shell Stitch

*Overedge stitch w/ 18-26 Stitches per Inch, depending on finish needed.

*Overedge stitch to form thread around edge in "Shell" shape.

Outside Garment

Inside Garment

Pearl Stitch

Outside Garment

Inside Garment

Shell Stitch

DST-3 Lettuce Edge Stitch

DST-4 Picot Stitch

* Overedge stitch formation at raw edge uniformly stretched to have wavy Lettuce leaf edge. * See spec pkg for stitch width & density.

* Two thread multi-step Chainstitch formed just off edge.

Outside Garment

Inside Garment

Outside Garment

Lettuce Edge Surging Stitch

Picot Stitch

DST-5 2-Needle Fagoting *Decorative Chainstitch between two finished edges. *See Spec Pkg for Picot Stitch Width.

DTS-6 Pick Stitch *See Spc Pkg for Stitch Length and Spacing.

* Stitch Length and Spacing may be even or uneven.

Two Needle Fagoting

Pick Stitch - Stitch through upper ply only.

Construction Casual Bottoms (Unlined)

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