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W T G 2 ^ C E P C N $ C T G N N K F T Q % ^ O     G I P ® U ' C .  E P +  V P G O R K W S ' G I # G P Q V 5 H Q M T C O G F C T V C U K * 6 . # ' 6 5  R W Q T ) U C F K F C G J V H Q U M T C O G F C T V F G T G V U K I G T G T C M T C O U G R K T V 5   G J V F P C Q I



























OFFICIAL

PARTN ER

A n d r e s M a r i n I I n d i a n C r e e k I C r a c k A t t a c k 5 . 1 1 F . M a r m s a t e r

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io n. u l t a tr a r u c t i o r u r t s a n X L G n g o c n n i i r r r Á G e t e e q u i O L P D Q G r e 1 0 / 1 a m e i o a i s P L 9 n d V l o e. ® u a s s K L F F K D s i n n o n v e d i n A L E c l u g s e I R i v I Z n n s e i U u X n p R o a r a r o r o R IA LR Q e t w th e x f r h o m t [ H F X W L R r o w i t E T s w , s e e T T e I h h H p t g I o a n F X V R O S c r o i c n e s i n n g r a R b i n o m b O P P l e y n a m c l i m H I R c m d i F Q e 0 D t a / 1 P o r t 9 1 ia x i a IR U P i a R e s p H S H U I T R X A T r c ib r e e e l i b t t i a K K W s c o R g h R p p H W R H i g W U R S T h e O



























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FLASH THE APPROACH

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Editor’s Note

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Letters Archives

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Re-Gram A season with Yosem Yosem-ite Search And Rescue.

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Off the Wall A band that climbs rocks and rocks out.

TH E CLIM CLIM B

GUIDE 26

Y S E T R U O C ; N O T R E L L U F N E B ; I T N U R F F A T T E R B ; R R U B W E R D N A ; M L L E B E T A K ; E P M E L E N Y E H C ; E T S I R H C E R R

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Advice Stylish car-living with dirtbag extraordinaire James Lucas. Epicenter North Conway, New Hampshire, and its many crags. Instant Expert Make laybacks a breeze with tips from Valley local Cheyne Lempe.

34 Training 10,000 feet of vertical and 19 miles in two days—no problem. 36 Nutrition Flavor and psych in a nutritious two-bite pie.

GEAR 39 Primer From cutting off circulation to cushy, the history of harnesses. 40 Big Review Treat Tre at your seat with this year’s best new harnesses. 42 Tested The latest gear obsessions from our testers. 43 The Kit Six key items to take every time you venture above treeline.

CLINICS 45 Begin Here Fear no alpine pitch with these rope-management tech tips. 46 In Session Don’t panic. Here’s what to do when your rappel rope gets stuck. 48 Guide’s Tip Get authentic flavor with these high-country cooking tips.

VOICES 51 Ask Answer Man What’s up with climbers’ hunchbacks? 52 The Wright Stuff An exploration of “Stanley style” in a























































Ari Menitove laybacks a granite dihedral in classic style on The (5.12+), Snowpatch Power of Lard (5.12+), Spire, the Bugaboos, Canada.

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The High Life Everything is better above treeline, and that includes bouldering. High-country pebble wrestling has been on the rise for several years, and with crystal-clear lakes, dense forests, and talus aplenty, boulderer Alex Biale takes us on a tour of the five best alpine areas, from California to Wyoming.

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Roped Up in Arabia The Middle East is a treasure trove of secret surprises, including the climbing oasis Wadi Rum, with its giant sandstone walls. Adventurer and writer Nancy Prichard-Bouchard reveals this vertical paradise with an in-depth look at the routes, the community, and the rise of climbing in one of the world’s most volatile regions.

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Editors’ Choice Classic There’s a class of gear that rises above the rest. As a matter of fact, some of us are still using models of belay devices and climbing shoes that originally hit the market more than 20 years ago. Here is a testament to those time-tested, muchloved pieces of gear that every climber should have in his arsenal.



























WHEN SELECTING A TENT…

CHOOSE WISELY

LEADING SINCE 197 1970 0

EDITORIAL

Editor SHANNON DAVIS

Art Director JACQUEL INE MCCAFFREY

Senior Editor JULIE EL LIS ON

Digital Media Specialist KEVIN CORRIGAN

Editor at Large DOUGALD MACDONAL D

Senior Contributing Photographer ANDREW BURR

Senior Contributing Editor JEFF ACHEY

Contributing Editors

��

BRENDAN LEONARD, DAVE S HEL DON, ANDREW TOWER, CEDAR WRIGHT

Contributing Illustrators

Strong, very comfortable, remarkably lightweight, and fully free standing �-person all season tent in our �� line. Perfect for those fast summer alpine adventures!

SKIP ST ERLING, S UPERCORN

Staff Photographer BEN FULLERT ON

Tablet Media Specialist CRYS TAL S AGAN

Design Intern GIOVANNI CORRADO L EO NE

BUSI NESS

Group Publisher J E F F TK TK A C H JTKACH@AIMMEDIA. COM

Advertising Director S HARON HOUGHTON S [email protected]

Midwest Account Manager CHARLOTT E S IBBING CS [email protected] OM

Eastern Account Director JOANN MARTIN [email protected] OM

Eastern Account Manager MATT HIGGINS M H I G G I NS NS @ A I M M ED ED I A . C O M

Western Account Managers NICK FREEDMAN NICK@MEDIAHOUNDS INC.COM JOHANNA WOLF JOHANNA@MEDIAHOUNDS INC.COM

Detroit Account Manager KEITH CUNNINGHAM KEITH-CUNNINGHAM@S BCGLOBAL.NET

Account Manager S EAN BONS ER S BONS ER@AIMMEDIA. COM

Edit Interns LESL IE HITTMEIER, CAROL INE MELEEDY

Group Marketing Director LIZ VERHOEV EN Director of Integrated Marketing CLIMBING MAGAZINE 5720 Flatiron Parkway Boulder, CO 80301 Phone: (303) 253-6301 SubscriberServices: Within U.S.: (800) 829-5895 Canada and Foreign: (386) 447-6318 Subscriber Service Email: [email protected] Contributors: Visit climbing.com/ climbing.com/contribute contribute Retailers: To carry CLIMBING magazine and CLIMBING magazine publications in your shop, contact Bonnie Mason: 1-800-381-1288 x95175. MOST OF THE ACTIVITIES DEPICTED HEREIN CARRY A SIGNIFICANT RISK OF PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH. Rock DEATH. Rock climbing, ice climbing,

COURTNEY MAT THEWS

Digital Marketing Director PHOEBE LEGG AdvertisingCoordinator KELS EY MCC ARTHY Prepress Manager JOY KELLEY Prepress Specialist IDANIA MENTANA Circulation Director JENNY DES JEAN Circulation Assistant LARA GRANT-WA GGLE Director of Retail Sales S US A N A. ROS E Group Circulation Manager DARYL MARCO Group New Business Manager KATHLEEN DONAHUE

Web & Partnership Director DEBBIE KANE



























DITCH THE DITCH GUIDEBOOK EXPLORE EXPLO RE WITH A LOCAL Are you missing out on the best part of your trip? Local, professional guides can lead you to secret, sought-afte sought-afterr spots and design an adventure to match your skill level. Hire a climbing guide and head straight to the goods.



























FLASH

Rob Pizem Datura (5.12-)

Zion National Park, Utah Climbing within a comfort zone is not something Rob Pizem is known for. As a matter of fact, he’s famous for the opposite: Wide cracks, scary runouts, rarely traveled routes, and bad pro are just a few of his fortes. This climb is no exception: “Choosing this route really was about picking something that I thought most climbers would avoid like the plague,” he says. This 900-foot route involves 400 feet of questionable and chaotic crack climbing followed by a 500-foot chimney filled with obstacles of all sizes and difficulties, including massive tree stumps wedged between the two walls. Yes, you read that right: 500 feet of an arboreal plant–filled chimney. Sound like fun? According to Pizem, many of

relics from Zion’s logging days, which date back to the 1850s, when they were tossed over the wall’s edge. This old aid line was established by Jim Beyer, who graded it 5.9 A2, a fact first ascensionist Pizem (along with Mike Brumbaugh and Andy Raether) didn’t discover until he rappelled the line and found old bolts deep in the wide crack. On that same day in March of this year, the trio managed the first ascent of another 900-foot line about 150 feet to the right, calling it (5.12-). Pizem Dr. Spaceman (5.12-). says the best part about the route was “getting to free the two aid pitches without having to add any new protection to the route.” The worst part? “As with any new Zion climb, getting sand in your eyes while belaying.” Here, he frees the last pitch of Datura .























































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FLASH Hayden Kennedy Tague Yer Time (5.12)

Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado Yosemite isn’t the only American big wall destination. The Black Canyon of the Gunnison in western Colorado features pegmatite-banded gneiss that plummets more than 2,000 feet straight down to the river winding through the canyon. The area is known for its steepness, hard climbing, tricky protection, wandering lines, and sketchy rock. Even its nickname, “The Black,” conjures up a sense of doom and intimidation. The Black is not a beginner-friendly area: Out of about 140 established routes (all trad), less than 30 are rated below 5.10, and even those are characterized by loose rock and diffi cult route-finding. This climb, named aer the late Cameron Tague, who established many routes in The Black and died climbing in Rocky Mountain National Park in July 2000, is 15 pitches, 1,500 feet, and clocks in at a solid 5.12. Here, Hayden Kennedy leads the stellar eighth pitch while Nik Berry belays. ANDREW BURR





















































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T H E

A P P R O A C H CONTRIBUTORS

ANGIE PAYNE “The more I write, the more I see similarities between writing and climbing. I could easily obsess for days, if not weeks, months, or (gasp) years about getting tiny things just right,” says pro climber Angie Payne in regard to her essay on alpine boulder boul dering. ing. As you’ll see on page 65, her obsession pays off.



























UNSOLICITED BETA

MEMORY LANE Æ Y Your our

May issu issuee conc concernin erning g Denn Dennis is Horning (“Dirty Dingus McGee and the Reese Mountain Gang”) brought back fond memories of the late 1960s. I was one of the four climbers who introduced Dennis to rock climbing in the Black Hills of South Dakota. My climbing friends (Tom Higgins, Bob Kamps, and Dave Rearick) and I were preparing for a first ascent of a modestly difficult pinnacle (5.6/5.7) when Mr. Horning appeared on the scene. His friendliness, engaging personality, and eagerness led us to invite him to join the climb. Upon reaching the summit, we

we’ll sell our house and move into a very small cabin. Even at 36 and with a 4-yearold daughter, it won’t be too late for us. Thank you tons for the extra nudge of inspiration. It’s never too late! —Tina LaDeur Carter, via Facebook

IN DEFENSE OF ZIP-OFF PANTS ÆPerhaps

the author (“Ask Answer Man,” May) has never boarded a plane in 20° weather and landed in 90° weather. For traveling or the backcountry, I consider function over fashion. I save weight and space in my pack with two garments in one. Fast and light. Isn’t that what you

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OBVIOUS LINES

VIRTUAL DISCUSSION

What’s your favorite piece of pro?* A big, depen dependable dable cam Solid nut placement Other

Other: ÆCrashpad

Nylon runner around a natural feature

ÆBolt ÆHelmet

Tricam in a horizontal crack Solid hex placement

(No love for the hex)

35 *Source: Climbing reader survey. Join at climbing.com/readerpanel .

Æ A

strong hold Æ Anything but hexes hexes

In our May 2014 feature “The Mentorship Gap,” Chris Noble links the rise of climbing gyms and a dearth of true mentorships with growing problems at the crags. While some considered the piece a rational look at a modern issue, others weren’t so sure. Read the full story at climbing .com/mentors .

Comments Best to convince the gym





























OFF THE WALL

Shred All Fear

BY KEVIN CORRIGAN





















































UNBELAYVABLE!

Scary (and true) tales from a crag near you



























Elevate Your Exp Your Experience erience.. Athletes like Mayan Smith-Gobat use Sterling ropes to undertake some of the most astonishing and challenging adventures on the planet. planet. Because every





























































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK , CO Experience the most popular alpine bouldering area in the country THE SCENE Quality gneiss

colored with splotches of green, yellow, black, and gray, gray, a seemingly unlimited amount of development potential, breathtaking vistas of some of Rocky’s most scenic peaks, hundreds of four-star boulder problems (of all grades), and a rich history all make this place one of the most visited summer climbing areas in North America. Can’t-miss zones: the Bear Lake Road circuit, Emerald Lake, Moraine Park, and Lower and Upper Chaos Canyon. THE APPROACH To get to

Emerald Lake and the th e Hallett Boulder, park at the Bear Lake parking lot (10 miles from f rom the park entrance on CO 36). Take the Emerald Lake Trail (a paved path for most of the way), passing views of Glacier Gorge and Longs Peak. The 1.5-mile hike gains 605 feet, and the bouldering area sits at 10,080 feet. TarTargeting Chaos Canyon? Park at the same lot and take the Emerald Lake Trail Trail until you reach a junction with the Lake Haiyaha Trail. Trail. Turn Turn le and hike uphill through several switchbacks and river crossings. Eventually the trail will spit you out at the mouth of Chaos Canyon. Trend Trend right for Lower Chaos; trend le for Upper.

NOTABLE PROBLEMS AT EMERA EMERALD LD LAKE LAKE THE KIND , V5 Rumored to be the best V5 in Colorado, this classic moves out a gentle overhang on absolutely perfect rock. The wall itself might even seem like it’s changing colors as the sun moves across the open sky. An absolute must-do for all capable.

THE STRIPES , V7 FIREBALL , V10 WHISPERS OF WISDOM , V10 This beauty takes home the “most coveted V10 in Colorado” award. Everything about this problem is ideal. It’s tall, steep, proud, aesthetic, hard as balls, and just plain fun. Not to mention you

IN CHAOS CANYON MIDDLE WARM-UP , V1 POTATO CHIP LAYBACK , V3 POTATO CHIP , V6 Good holds and nice movement.

TOMMY’S ARÊTE , V7 A four-star problem said



























Nadia Pinna stretches out on the colorful gneiss at the relatively easy-to-access Emerald Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park.



























Daniel Woods tries hard and nabs the first ascent of Never Cry Wolf (V13) at the Devil’s Kitchen near Lander.

WYOMING Ventur V enturee into into the front frontier ier of of alpine alpine boulde bouldering ring THE SCENE The

Wind Rivers, near Lander, Wyoming, and the Laramie Mountain Range, host some of the country’s most underdeveloped and promising bouldering. Lander is home to roadside sandstone, alpine granite, and plenty of wilderness dolomite, and Laramie is just as diverse, with more rock than you could ever imagine. Local Davin Bagdonas says, “Developing new problems and areas is the driving force behind the climbing community here.” here.” If you have any interest in finding new rock, having areas

NOTABLE PROBLEMS ALCA,, V5 ALCA CRYSTALIS , V6 GREEN MACHINE, V6 THE SOLITUDE , V9 Sometimes V9 can feel way harder than V10.

) E T I S O P P O ( G N



























BURST ROCK, CA Visit the best-k best-kept ept climb climber er secret secret in the the Sierra Sierra Neva Nevada da THE SCENE Burst

Rock, which sits at about 8,000 feet above sea level and an hour outside outsi de the town of Twain Harte in the Eastern Sierra, is on par with the world-class Colorado spots— with none of the people. Littered with towering granite blocks, this talus field has unimaginable potential with very few takers, despite locals encouraging development. The boulders are tall, and the landings are rocky and uneven. Bring your pads and some friends. THE APPROACH Yo You’ll u’ll

Ryan Moon warms up on a V1 in the lower talus field .

RULES OF THE ALPINE

need two things: things : a vehicle with off-road capabilities and an affinity for hiking. Head east out of Twain Harte on CA 108 and aer about 30 minutes, you’ll hit the small town of Cold Springs and then Crab Tree Road. Turn Turn right and drive for about ab out 15 minutes (it will go from paved to dirt). Continue on this road until you arrive at the Gianelli Gia nelli Trailhead. Trailhead. Park here, hike for one mile until you hit a small wooden sign, and then hang a le to follow a climber’s trail. When you arrive at the rim of the talus field, pick your poison and make your way down.

NOTABLE PROBLEMS THE RIBBON, V4 CONVERSATIONS WITH CONVERSATIONS MARMOT, V7 WE DON’T NEED TO WHISPER, V7 The most obvious line in the whole canyon. You can see the lightning bolt feature that defines this highball boulder from the top of the canyon before you make the descent. Brute force won’t get you to the top of this gem; you have to whisper. SWEET SIXTEEN, V8 An amazing highball that ascends little edges up a perfect overhang. Bring the spotters and the pads! LEXICAL AMBIGUITY AMBIGUITY,,

V10 Climb a perfect overhanging face on crimps and edges.

SKYPE, V10 Max Zolotukhin put this problem up in 2011 aer it thwarted many a ttempts.

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Jon Glassberg on the first ascent of Lightstorm (V8) (V8) at Mt. Evans.





























BY ANGIE PAYNE

Ode to the Alpine This will be my fourth season of projecting the same boulder problem. I have invested upward of 50 days to climb this single piece of rock, and the frustration is brain-twisting at times. But when I am consumed by anger and self-doubt and on the verge of a total meltdown, I take a few steps back to see the bigger scene surrounding this little rock—the 13,000-foot peaks reflected in clear alpine lakes. It slaps some sense into me and slows my racing mind. And when I walk back up that trail this year to my favorite place on Earth, it will be more beautiful than I remembered—because remembered—because it always is. I finished my first long-term project above treeline years ago, but one project led right into the next as my love of the alpine continued to grow. I can’t stay away away.. I have vivid memories of one of my first bouldering outings to Rocky Mountain National Park. I was a 19-yearold, doe-eyed tagalong in a group of three guys who were Park regulars. The day went something like this: drive 45 minutes to Estes Park, wait just as long for a storm to pass, hike for more than an hour to reach a single boulder, unpack just in time to watch a storm roll over the ridge, run two miles back down to the car. Standing in the park ing lot with rubbery legs, burning lungs, and an altitudeinduced headache, I hardly knew which way was up, but I was sure of one thing—Colorado boulderers are crazy. But just as the burn of bourbon fades with each sip, my alpine bouldering jaunts got smoother. Soon enough, I began to acclimate to the altitude and the attitude of alpine boulderi boul dering, ng, and real realized ized that a day day like that was par for the course. I joined the ranks of crazies and came to embrace that climbing in the mountains requires patience. In the early season, you must wait for the boulders to crawl out of their snowy hibernation. And once the

boulders. I spent more time going to the Park alone, and though I continued to fail on my project, I came to crave the escape to the mountains as much as I craved the send. I fell in love with the routine of it all—driving, hiking, trying, failing, waiting. The joy of alpine bouldering is not only about the climbing. It’s in the whole journey. The driving and hiking and weather-dodging. The burning legs and lungs, and the feeling of utter exhaustion at the end of the day. The moments between failure-induced fits of anger and frustration when you look up and realize that you are in the prettiest place you’ve ever been. It’s in the delicate wildflowers, the rare patches of vegetation scattered among the rocks, and the feeling that disrupting the balance of either is just a misstep away. The joy is in the serene harmony of the blues, greens, and grays, or the grating dissonance of a fast-moving storm. It’s in the fleeting clash of the two extremes and the apocalyptic clouds that come rolling over the ridge, throwing hail and lightning at a



























WA A LEAVENWORTH, W Fatten your tick list in the climbing capital of the Northwest THE SCENE The

faux–Bavarian village of Leavenworth is located in central Washington and surrounded by Alps-quality scenery. With a mix of whitewater boaters, alpine climbers, mountain bikers, bi kers, and tourons, you won’t be alone. But with the highest density of bouldering and rock climbing in the region—not to mention a fun vibe and plenty of great breweries—who’s complaining? Find out more about this climbing epicenter at climbing.com/leavenworth . THE APPROACH There

are thousands of impeccable granite boulders bould ers scattered along forest roads and hidden in the surrounding trees, but the majority of the bouldering is located along Highway 2 and can be broken down into two general areas: Icicle Creek and an d Tumwater Tumwater Canyon. Follow Icicle Creek Road south out of town to get introduced to the area (and find fi nd camping). Tyler Weiss going big on The Prism (V9). (V9).

NOTABLE PROBLEMS BEACH ARÊTE, V2 THE SWORD, V3 R





















































MT. EVANS, CO Hike through vibrant flowers and meadows to world-class boulders THE SCENE Mt. Evans hosts some of the most sought-aer problems in all of Colo-

rado, of every grade. The bouldering here varies wildly in climbing style, which creates a unique experience every time you visit. You can find nearly everything here. Technical granite slabs? Yup. Dynos on steep overhangs? Absolutely. Slopey compression thuggery? Uh-huh. You can find anything from V0 to V15 at Mt. Evans. THE APPROACH From I-70, I-70, take CO 103 south from Idaho

Springs for about 14 miles to Echo Lake Park. Echo Lake is the trailhead for Chicago Lakes Trail Trail No. 52, which leads to Areas A through D. Area A is about three miles from the trailhead. Area D adds another two or three miles (depending on how lost you get).

NOTABLE PROBLEMS TIMELINE , V1

PEASANTS INTO

Timeline is a 25-foot-tall granite slab that sits right in the main area

LEADERS , V7



























RULES OF THE ALPINE

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What every boulder boulderer er needs needs to know about about life life up up high THE ALPINE ENVIRONMENT IS FRAGILE.

Plants and animals are delicate and need to be respected. Stay on trails, don’t feed the wildlife (seriously, not even the squirrels), pick up all the trash you find, pack everything out, and follow the next rule. Climbing in these wild, beautiful places is a privilege, so treat it like that. DON’T STASH PADS OR OTHER GEAR.

If you don’t have the fitness/energy/motivation to hike your pads in and out every time, you shouldn’t be visiting the se areas in the first place. ) E T I S O P P O ( R E D W O R C H C I R ; N O S D R A H C I R N O T L A

ACCESS IS NOT GUARANTEED.

Developers have worked closely with park rangers and the Forest Service to allow climbers access, so don’t do anything to threaten that tricky relationship. Be courteous to other climbers, tourists, and rangers. There’s a lot of rock, but it’s not all open to traffic, so check before developing. WEAR SUNSCREEN AND SUNGLASSES.

Being at elevation means harmful rays are more intense, a lack of tree cover means there’s little to no shade, and surrounding snowfields will compound the problem. Protect your skin with layers and sunscreen, and wear a hat and sunglasses to shield your peepers.

Julie Ellison reaches through on (V2), a stellar warmThe Ladder (V2), up at Area A of Mt. Evans.

PROMOTION

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T H E B E TA TA

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arabia



























Wadi Rum, a vast, echoing labyrinth

of brick-red sand and castellated cliffs in southern Jordan, lies deep in the cradle of civilization. It feels like the epicenter of the universe—in both a spiritual and a climbing sense. The climbing I can explain; you’ll j ust have to trust me on the spiritual thing. It’s the ultimate in adventure climbing—a blend of Canyonlands cracks, Yosemite big walls, and Black Canyon commit-

everyone. In Jordan, climbing is a common language of peace, fun, and adventure ripe for exploration—just bring your own pro, sunscreen, and camel harness.



























in. The sheath was impressively frayed and the cord goldline stiff, but what we didn’t know was that the local Bedouins are known for their keen sense of humor. He took off climbing—moving with confidence confidence,, talent, talent, and and fluidity fluidity.. Goldfinger is a beautiful route following an obvious crack system on the finger-shaped towers clinging to the East Face of Jebel Rum. The climb begins with a scramble up to the white rock band and the start of the crack system. The third pitch is the crux, a The second works through a short, chimney that demands classic pushairy traverse on the final pitch of La Guerre Saint (5.12b). and-pull technique. The well-featured rock made climbing fun, with plenty of pockets, knobs, and small crack sys tems, including abundant opportunities for natural protection. To my left was a monster splitter that rivaled Supercrack rivaled Supercrack in in Indian Creek. Mohammad placed nuts as adeptly as if he’d been raised in Yosemite. He slung chickenheads and threaded runners through rock channels left by wind and water. I was surprised to see no fixed anchors. The rock was stellar until we reached the top where a mammoth-sized boulder guarded guarded the path between between us and and the belay. belay. Suddenly the the route went from casual casual jug-hauling and stemming to those tricky, tricky, hold-your breath levitations levitations I’d learned learned on fragile rock in Canyonlands.

Pillars of Wisdom and Wisdom and watched David Lean’s film Lawrence of Arabia so often that my daughters were speaking like Peter O’Toole and Omar Sharif. Most of the movie was filmed in and around Rum Village—you can’t help but notice the sumptuously carved walls of rock. “Welcome to Wadi Wa di Rum!” says Sheikh Auda Abu Abu Tayeh Tayeh (played by Anthony Anthony Quinn). As the Bedouin troops move off across the wide, magnificent valleys of Rum and Um Ishrin, you are treated to a bird’s eye view of the East Face of Jebel Rum (you can see Goldfinger ) and of the proud towers of Nassraniya.

I first heard of Wadi Rum during the first Gulf War when I had

We flew non-stop from New York to Amman, Jordan’s capital

just started as a junior junior editor at Rock at Rock and Ice. Ice. One of the earliest stories

and a bustling city of about three million. You can catch a red-eye, settle



























could use a drill to establish some anchors. “I know one guide who can, though,” he said, “but he can take only two climbers.” Hakim’s words were met with silence—at least six other writers in the group wanted to climb, too. Lawrence of Arabia, Arabia, Abu Tayeh describes himself as a “river to his In Lawrence In people.” That’s a good description of Hakim. Nearly single-handedly, he has developed a community of Middle East climbers—the first ever. They’ve had two Wadi Rum climbing festivals and are working on route developmentt on a limestone crag near Syria. There developmen are climbers from Lebanon, United Arab EmirEmir ates, and Iraq. Hakim’s company, Tropical Desert Guiding Service, introduces people to hiking and canyoneering in Jordan, but he’s also taught a lot of people to climb for free. UNESCO had been alerted about a monstrous boulder that was coming loose from the base of a big wall in Petra. They called Tropical Desert and set about a massive project to reattach the rock. Then they turned their attention to the Siq (the impossibly narrow slot canyon with 100-meterhigh walls that are the main entrance into Petra). Hakim helped to install more than 70 devices that would allow geologists geologists and archaeologists archaeologists to moni monitor rock movement. “It was a majestic feeling when they said they needed a device on the rock next to the famous Monastery and Treasury,” said Hakim. “Climbing there was one of the coolest things I’ve done in my life.”

the Dead Sea (at 1,400 feet below sea level). While Amman is densely populated, with big buildings, an extensive souk (open-air market), and antiquities that date back 20,000 years, the rest of the country is vast desert and mountains punctuated by amazingly fertile valleys and river beds. The canyoneering in this area is amazing—deep slot canyons canyons with waterfalls and cascading pools, with oases of pink and oleander and palm. As you near the edge of the escarpment of Ras en Naqab, big-featured mountains loom in the distance. There’s the pyramid-shaped peaks of the Barrah Mountains, and the porpoise-back arch of Jebel Rum. While prehistoric man lived in this area 200,000 years ago, and there are 2,000-yearold Nabatean ruins, this section of the Middle East wasn’t explored by We Westerners sterners until much later later.. Arabia,, introduced The classic film, Lawrence of Arabia Wadii Rum to the Wes Wad Western tern world (it won seven Academy Awards in 1962). T.E. Lawrence (brilliantly played by Peter O’Toole), derided for his obsession over the Jordanian desert, explains, “It is clean.” And that’s one of its attractions, but he also called Wadi Rum “magnificent, vast, echoing, and godlike.” But it is also achingly beautiful, exotic, and strangely intriguing. During WWI, T.E. Lawrence’s love affair with the Middle East (nurtured by the sensationalized reporting of American journalist Lowell Thomas) helped to bring the region to the world’s atten Wisdom cemented tion. His book Seven book Seven Pillars of Wisdom cemented the relationship—especially after it was made into an epic film in

Nearly sin gle-handedly, he developed the first community of Middle East climbers.





























houses, maybe a dozen black goat-hair Bedouin tents, and a dusty shop piled high with a confusion of clothes, kitchen utensils, and vegetables. Howard remembers waking at dawn to see smoke curling up from the fires of the Bedouin tents as they roasted coffee beans before grinding them in large bell-like brass mortars. Then chimes rang out, welcoming people to the tent. There was a well near the fort, but no electricity. They were the only foreigners in the valley. They were welcomed into Rum by the son of Sheikh Atieq and invited to his desert camp where they explained they were looking for climbs, and if the climbing were good, others might come. If they didn’t want that, Howard made it clear, the Brits would go. Sheikh Atieq agreed to the proposal, but as the Bedouin had climbed everything, why did the British need all that equipment when the mountains had all been climbed with nothing! Howard quickly discovered that his hosts were excellent mountaineers. They lived and traveled with the Bedouin for two months, naming all the mountains, finding the Burdah Bridge, and climbing Jebel Rum by variouss Bedou variou Bedouin in route routes. s. The Bedou Bedouins ins proved sly sandb sandbaggers aggers—they’ —they’d



























potential impact that more houses (and cars) would have on the tranquil community and pristine nature of the landscape is fierce in town and around campfires.

The windy road

takes you through the desert to a small rise and the Visitor Center. The view overlooking the Valley of Rum is grand—Ansel Adams would have gone wild. On either side there are a half-dozen miles of highly featured, colorful 1,500-foot cliffs. The shadows on the rock, framed by red sand and blue sky, captivate us. Several camels wander into view. By now, most of us have changed our ball caps for traditional scarves. From here, you can catch a bus into Rum Village, or better yet, get picked up by your guide. Chances are you’ ll ride on cush ioned seats in the bed of a pickup, or you could go by camel or horseback; either way, you’ll have a 360-degree view of the desert. Hakim’s friend in Wadi Rum is Mohammad Hammad, arguably the best Bedou Bedouin in climber climber around around.. His His father father,, Hammad, Hammad, was in in the the Jordania Jordanian n military and pioneered many of the first technical routes on the cliffs. Hammad’s Hamma d’s Route to Route to the summit of 1,754-meter Jebel Rum, is one of the

There are now several bolted limestone crags north of Amman. About 500 climbers visit Wadi Rum each year for technical climbing and the Bedouin routes. The traditional Bedouin routes are more about mountaineering and alpinism than pure technical climbing, even if some parts of Wadi Rum cliffs look like sport climbing crags. There are still only a few fully bolted climbs. Most of the climbing here is about trad: nuts, cams, wedged knots, and threads on soft sandstone. On my second trip, this time with Backpacker magazine, I flew in early to hang out with some of the local climbers in Amman. Mai Turki picked me up from the airport; she’s an active part of the local climbing community. My ride back to the airport was with Safa Muhi, the first sponsored female climber from Iraq. I asked her what it was like being a female climber in a Muslim country. “I grew up in Iraq,” she said. “When you live your life expecting death any second like kids waiting for snow on Chris tmas, and then you get the chance to live a normal life—one when you kiss your mum goodbye as you leave the house because it’s customary, not because you might go out that door and not come back alive—a life where you get to feel bored once in a



























exposed to many sports and will make her own choices.

You can walk to hundreds of climbs from Rum Village, and some of the most classic are just a few minutes to an easy hour away away.. One faSainte ), mous is Jihad (also (also known as La G uerre Sainte), a wild multi-pitch sport route located on the eastern side of Jebel Um Ishrin, east of Rum Village. This 400-meter desert beast was bolted by French climber Arnaud Petit and graded at 7b+ (5.12c). The first few pitches are very exposed; bolts can be four to six meters apart, but the sandstone is solid there. Near the third pitch is some crimpy climbing, but farther up, the rock gets sketchier, and with such distance between bolts, you want to move cautiously to avoid a 12-meter fall. On my second trip, I did the four-day hike from

beta LEBANON SYRIA

IRAQ

Jerash AMMAN Dead Sea

ISRAEL JORDAN Petra

EGYPT

Wadi Rum

Red Sea

SAUDI ARABIA

Wadi Rum strictly follows Wadi follows the traditional traditional climbclimbing ethos, and even the use of chalk is frowned upon by locals. The bold routes of Austrian cleanclimbing legend Albert Precht have by far the purest ethic and present the greatest challenge— though not many climbers attempt the necky runouts. Only three bolts were used to complete Wisdom,, first the 10-pitch, 350-foot Pillar of Wisdom climbed by Colonna, Howard, and Taylor in 1986. Subsequently, Colonna and the Jordanian Tour ism Board have worked to put safety rappels on popular descents. And outside the Protected Area, sport-specific crags are continually being developed. There are now some superb routes on Nassraniya in particular. Rum rock is sandstone, mostly good but some not. It can go from really hard to the consistency of a frozen snow cone. And as always with adven-



























Le: Although climbing at Petra is illegal, guide Hakim Tamimi climbs next to the Treasury to help the government assess damage to the monuments. Above: Descending from the East Face of Nassraniya North Tower. Tower. Below: The village of Wadi Rum sits in a low, flat valley, with monstrous walls,



























potential is obvious. To the north, the sandstone appears at its color ful best in Petra. North again there is some conglomerate near Dana. And as you head farther north, north, there are some sandstone sandstone canyons canyons with basalt intrusions. Northward from here, the rock is mostly limestone, providing some trad climbs and many sport climbs, particularly at Al Ayoun, north of Ajloun Castle.

Considering that Rum is a serious mountain area, there have actually been very few accidents in the past 30 years. The worst was undoubtedly the death of three French climbers, two women and a man, this spring on Goldfinger , the route I climbed with Amy and Mohammad. They were experienced climbers, but reputedly didn’t have sandstone experience. They had threaded a bridge for an anchor on the third (crux) pitch; two were

With so much politi-

East closed to climbing due to political turmoil, Jordan has become the anchor of the climbing community. With the development of a strong local climbing community in the past year, a pro-Western culture, and increased media attention, Wadi Rum is moving from an exotic dream to a must-do on every trad climber’s bucket list. One of the harder climbs in Wadi Rum is the bolted Glory, a fivepitch sport route put up by Ofer Blutrich, a very strong Israeli climber. climber. It goes at 8a+ (5.13c) and sports a hard, spectacular spectacular,, and ultra-technical third crux pitch. The rest of the pitches (10a, 12a, 12b, 12a, respectively) are all beautiful, technical friction climbing on steep, dark rock. This spring, Klemen Becan, a Slovenian climber, climber, did the first 8b+ (5.14a) of Wadi Wa di Rum. It might be the least-steep 8b+ in the the world—even world—even less than vertical—a testament testament to the technical technical level of the testpiece. Mohammad and Wilfried came to visit at our campsite. Rather than the group desert camp where there are big, individual sleeping tents, bathrooms, and even showers, this time we were carrying our own tents and stretching out under the stars on the still-warm desert sand. I’d brought a new rope for Mohammad and climbing shoes for them

















































































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Climbing - August 2014 USA

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