Bushcraft & Survival Skills - June 2014 UK - FiLELiST

Editor Simon Ellar [email protected] Sub-Editor Olivia Beardsmore [email protected] Design Andy Childs [email protected] Proof-Reading Elaine Gilboy Advertising Sales [email protected]

ISSUES

Office Administrator Linda Frohock [email protected] Distribution Comag Tavistock Road Tavistock Road West Drayton Middlesex UB7 7QE Telephone: Telep hone: 01895 01895 433800 433800

Cover Image Jason Ingamells & Quercus by Anders Brogaard Environmental Bushcraft & Survival Skills is an Environment ally Responsible Business. Printed on FSC paper from sustainable sources, we use vegetable- based inks (soya and boiled linseed oil). All waste paper is recycled via a local transfer partner. Refillable ink cartridges, eco-bulbs and recycled / recyclable consumables are used and we are involved in several tree-planting schemes, to name just some of our actions to be ‘green’.

Printed by Buxton Press – an award-winning, ecofriendly printer.

Cert no. TT-COC-2200

Subscriptions UK: £29 / year (1 year, 6 issues) Europe: £55 / year Rest of World: £72 / year Digital: £19 / year (1 year, 6 issues) Subscribe online at: www.bushcraftmagazine.com To pay by card, telephone: 0333 4567 123 & Press Option 1 Cheques & Postal Orders payable to: SO Publications & Events Ltd. PO Box 16777, Tamworth, B77 9NG

A MILESTONE... Over the last nine years, I have thoroughly enjoyed putting together 50 issues of Bushcraft & Survival Skills. This couldn’t have been done without a team of experts sharing their bushcraft and survival knowledge and experience and I would personally like to thank each and every one from Issue 1 up to Issue 50. My gratitude also goes to the production team behind the scenes who bring it all together. Finally, there would definitely not be a magazine without you the reader - thank you so much for your support! We still have a wealth of untapped content to share with you over the next 50 issues and we look forward to celebrating our 100th issue with you! As you join us in celebrating this milestone, our experts have prepared a bushcraft feast for you. Jason Ingamells celebrates our 50th issue (p38) with 50 things that everyone knew 50 years ago. Ben and Lois Orford teach practical and important techniques on how-to responsibly harvest timber (p8), so when you find a place to practice your bushcraft skills (with Paul Kirtley on p28) you won't upset the landowner. Find out what’s happening at this year’s Bushcraft Show and see the new site plan (p52). For survival tips and a chuckle, read Lofty Wiseman's survival stories (p16), then flick to p77 to see what Gear Brylls, May Rears, Burp Grylls and Ray Fears, characters in our comic strips over the years are up to in our 50th issue. I had the opportunity to interview Cody Lundin, prior to his visit to The Bushcraft Show in May and put many of your questions to him, read his replies on p56. If you are planning your summer holiday, Tim Gent shares the joys of coastal canoeing (p60) or if you are going off grid take a look at the BioLite stove (p78), if you are so far off grid that you need a few navigational pointers, Tristan Gooley will keep you on track with his natural navigation skills (p80). Our money saving expert, Ian Nairn shares a nifty ‘bushcraft on a budget’ project on how to make an arrow with a spoon! (p34) Pablo shares the wonders of wildlife as spring turns to summer (p22) and Marcus Harrison tempts and tantalises our wild food taste buds with spicy sauces (p12). Happy Bushcrafting!

EDITOR’S 50TH ISSUE COMPETITION

Tel: 0333 0333 4567 123 123 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.bushcraftmagazine.com Disclaimer: The opinio Disclaimer: The opinions ns express expressed ed in this publication are not to be considered those of the publisher. Whilst every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the content, data, advice etc. contained within, no responsibility will be accepted for any errors, omissions or comments made by writers, interviewees, or editors, or for comments from any other source. We accept no responsibilityy for any damages incurred resulting responsibilit from the use of any information contained in this magazine, however caused. Any prices quoted are correct at the time of going to press. Copyright: All articles, writings, drawings, photographs etc. are copyright. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited.

W I IN ! N !

To celebrate celebrate our 50th 50th issue I would would like like to giveaway a BioLite stove worth £149.95. Simon Ellar Editor

To enter enter the competitio competition, n, tell us us what you you have most enjoyed about the magazine over the years. Post your comment on our Facebook page or send in your answer by email or post. One lucky winner will be selected on 12.06.14 (See T&C’s below) below)..

Follow Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine on Facebook

© 2012 SO Publications & Events Ltd. All rights reserved. ISSN: 1749-7205 Competitionguidelines: Some guidelines: Some competitions in this magazine may be subject to eligibility criteria or age restrictions. All competitions are subject to the following rules / conditions: i). No purchase is necessary to enter; nor is there any charge to enter any competition ii). All decisions are final. iii). iii). Bushcraft and Survival Skills reserve the right to disqualify any entrant and / or winner at our absolute discretion. iv). All prizes are non-transferrable non-transferrable and no cash or credit alternatives alternatives will be offered. v). Prizes may be distributed by a third-party sponsor so you agree by entering, for your details to be passed on to arrange the issue of your prize. vi). Bushcraft and Survival Skills reserve the right at its sole discretion to substitue prizes of comparable value for any of the prizes. vii). Competitions ons are open only to UK residents with a UK delivery address; delivery will not be made to a P.O. Box. viii). All entries must be received by the deadline shown and late or incomplete entries will be disqualified. ix). By entering a Competition, if you are a winner, you grant Bushcraft and Survival Skills permission to publish your name and county of residence along with any comments you may issue, online or in the magazine. x). If we are unable to contact you within 14 days of the closing date or if a prize is returned as undeliverable as addressed this will result in your disqualification and a new winner will be selected. xi). Winners are solely responsible for all insurance, incidental expenses associated with claiming the prize, applicable taxes and for any expenses not specified in the prize description. xii). Bushcraft and Survival Skills accept no responsibility ty for entries that are lost, delayed or damaged in the post or lost or delayed in transmission or for damage or loss resulting in communications not received due to computer malfunctions, viruses, etc. xiii). Competitions are not open to the employees of Bushcraft and Survival Skills, to any sponsors involved with the competition or the immediate families es of employees or sponsors. xiv). Competition winner/s agree that neither Bushcraft and Survival Skills nor any sponsors shall have any liabilit liabilityy in connection with the acceptance or use of any of the prizes awarded. xv). By entering our competition you give your permission for your details to be used by Bushcraft and Survival Skills and the competition sponsor to provide you with information on their products / services; you will always be given the opportunity to unsubscribe. Bushcraft and Survival Skills Skills accept no responsibility for the contents or accuracy of mailings from the sponsor. Your details will not be passed on to any third parties. xvi). If you are unable to enter the competition by email to competition@bushcraftmagazine [email protected] .com you can do so by sending your name, address and telephone number to the address shown above marked ‘competition entry’. For all entries please state which competition you are entering and include your name, address, contact number and email address. Illegible or incomplete entries will be disqualified. Winners will be notified by email, should you wish; please send an e-mail to [email protected] [email protected] detailing the Competition for the names of the winner/s or send an S.A.E. to the address above, again detailing the competition. The closing date for the competitions competitions in this this issue is the 12th June 2014 unless otherwise stated. stated. Only one entry entry per person person per competition competition is permitted. permitted.

4

•

BUSHCRAFT & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE

CONTENTS...

8

REGULAR 3 6 20 65 66 67 73

Editorial Letters to the Editor In the News Back Issues Offer Subscription Offer Next Issue Trading Post

16

FEATURES 8 12 16 22 26 28 34 38 44 48 52 56 60 68 74 77 80

How-to Harvest Timber Summer Skies, Spicy Sauces Lofty’s Survival Story Nature’s Calendar Bootcamp Find a place to practice bushcraft skills Bushcraft on a Budget Arrows 50 things everyone knew 50 years ago Snakebites Boreal on a Budget About The Bushcraft Show 2014 Interview with Cody Lundin Coastal Canoeing Terrorism at Large The Spirit of Bushcraft Cartoons Natural Navigation

44

REVIEWS 19 Book Reviews 78 The BioLite Stove

COMPETITIONS 3 Win A BioLite Stove 7 Send in your Readers’ Letters 19 Win The Walker’s Guide Book 19 Win Armageddon Cookbook 20 Win a Spy in the Pod DVD

S UB S C R I B E T OD A Y ! F OR D E TA I L S S EE P A GE 6 6

To view all the contributors visit www.bushcraftmagazine.com

74


•

5

6

•



LETTERSTOTHE EDITOR! SHELTERS THAT LAST Dear Editor, A couple of days after Issue 49 was delivered, I got home from work and finally had a chance to sit down, tear open the latest copy and start to have a read. While having a flick through the pages before finding Lofty's latest story, I came upon the article by Dave Watson entitled 'Shelters that Last' (page 74). I was very impressed to read of how his constructions had lasted several years and thought to myself this is something I need to teach to my kids.

AMMO TIN STOVE Hello! I thought I'd share my stove with you after reading your brill article in Issue 48 about building an ammo tin stove. I built it last summer and it's the first stove that I ever made, it warms up my lavvu (and garage) nicely. I think the whole thing cost me about £15 and was made from the same kind of ammo tin, plate compactor carry handles from work and a flue that I scrounged from a builder. I have to say that it was great to read of another way of making the same thing and I'll definitely be referring back to the article when I build another one.

S TA R L E T T E R ! L M F F i r o n e i t s w e s te l a y ou ! y t o

However, imagine my surprise when my six-yearold daughter looked over my shoulder and said 'that looks like the shelter we made daddy'. I discovered that after being collected from school one day, my wife and two daughters had gone for a walk in the wooded area near our house. Following the storms we have had there was a vast array of fallen branches, logs and leaves. They set about building a small shelter to use when they next came down. While their construction may not be up the standards of Dave Watson, I am impressed that my five and six year old daughters thought it would be a good idea to build something in the woods. My only disappointment is that I didn't get to do it with them first. However, we have all decided that we will build a second one to create a little village. Please find enclosed a picture of my daughters' construction and rest assured, their skills will grow and improve so this is just the beginning. Many thanks and keep up the excellent work and information sharing, Conor McDonagh Dear Conor, Thank you for your letter, the great thing about bushcraft is that it is fun to do, fun for adults but particularly fun for children too. What a great way to build lasting relationships with our children and at the same time teach them skills that one day could even save their lives. Happy Bushcrafting! Simon

To win a Light My Fire Firesteel, send in your ‘Letter to the editor’ to [email protected]

I'm currently working on a gas bottle stove, which is around 80% complete. I'm working on the same sort of principle with it and hopefully it'll sit nice outside by the table when it's not heating my garage! Cheers, Nathan Middleton Dear Nathan, It amazes me from the letters that we receive and when I speak to people at shows just how ingenious people are and just how many people are making their own kit. Turning everyday items into functional equipment is real life survival. Good luck with your gas bottle stove! Happy Bushcrafting! Simon

Daniel C. Lee

About to make my first ever Tandem Skydive in Boise, Idaho, March 8th,wearing my Bushcraft and Survival Skills Magazine sweater. I do not believe in free advertising, but I make an exception for your magazine as it is full of wisdom and beneficial for people. Bushcraft and Survival Skills Magazine Bless you and thank you Daniel C. Lee. I don't think our marketing has reached such great heights before!


W r i t e T o d a y !

KNIVES & AXES

HARVESTING WOOD AUTHOR PROFILE:

When out in the woods making shelters or gathering materials it is generally best to try and collect wood and branches that have already been cut or shed and are the right length or can be snapped to the right length. But there are times with certain projects when the right fresh green material needs to be harvested.

Ben & Lois Orford Ben and Lois Orford live and work from their home in Herefordshire. With their backgrounds in green woodwork and traditional woodland crafts they make a range of handmade woodcraft tools, bushcraft knives and leatherwork for the discerning outdoors enthusiast. Their combined experience and passion for their craft makes them keen to pass on their knowledge and skills.

A coppiced woodland with lots of multiple stems of Hazel as well as standard trees

8

•



W

hen you go for a walk in the countryside and you come across somebody’s attempt to cut a branch from a tree next to the footpath that has left a mashed up stump looking like a toothbrush, not only does it look horrible, but an untidy cut on a tree or branch can lead to die back or potential infection of the whole tree. This is the worst case scenario, but a tidy cut will look less noticeable, allow the tree to heal quickly and to regrow more usable stems, allowing you to come back and harvest more in years to come. Being able to cut wood in a controlled manner is also less dangerous for your own safety and gives you more usable materials rather than wasting any. There are many ways that you can cut materials, from using your knife, axe or saw, to using secateurs. The aim, with whatever tool you use, is to leave no splits on the stump or stem that could potentially collect and harbour water and dirt. Also leaving a smooth sloping cut to shed any water away from the stump will stimulate the cambium layer - the growing part of the tree - to heal over the wound, or to throw out new shoots as on a coppiced stool, (a cut stump of a single tree which then throws up multiple stems). Traditionally any woodland or hedge work would have been carried out in the dormant season from about November to March, with cutting starting when the leaves have all been shed and stopping before the sap rises and the buds start to appear in spring. These timings have changed over the years, with the seasons changing due to the milder winters and you may find that spring tends to come earlier, but if you cut materials when the sap is down it has benefits for the tree as well as the produce. Cutting material in the dormant season is less likely to disturb any nesting wildlife and also the cut will not bleed sap which makes the wound more prone to infection. Also the materials that are cut with no sap in will last longer and be less prone to attack by woodworm etc. This is due to the wood having less sugary sap in the cells. Normally when using Hazel for traditional hurdles and wattle craft the winter cut wood will last up to about ten

years whereas with summer cut wood you will be lucky if it lasts five years. Harvesting timber can cause bystanders to think you are damaging the tree and if done badly it can, but if done properly it can make the tree throw up more new fresh growth, and if completely coppiced (cut right done to the stump) it will throw out multiple stems of new fresh growth which allows the tree to grow on for much longer. Some traditional coppiced woodlands have original coppice stools that are hundreds of years old.

Section of wood showing the parts of the bark

Small stems can be cut cleanly through by angling the blade and slicing downwards with your knife

Notice the nice long sloping cut, from cutting through at a steep angle to the stem

Using a knife on larger stems, making sure you bend the stem to help cut through it

Understanding the structure of a tree and how it grows before you cut the wood helps you to make the right decisions. In a simplified way think of the main body of wood, effectively the bit we want, as actually not the growing part but more like the skeleton of the tree used to support the branches and leaves which it needs to survive. The bark comprises of three major parts, the outer bark which protects the tree from drying out and animal and fungal attack, the inner bark which is effectively the next bit of growth/ expansion and the cambium layer. The cambium is an amazing layer which is a slimy jelly like area just under the inner bark which allows the new inner bark to grow expanding the tree and this will also help heal over wounds and throw out new shoots if stimulated by cutting or exposing it. This is the sweet area that animals and bugs like to eat, so you can see why the tree likes to protect it. So if you imagine that the cambium is damaged all the way around a stem (ring barked) you can see why the tree will die. This is why if you are harvesting Birch bark you have to be very careful not to cut too deeply as you will be cutting through the inner bark and into the cambium layer. Cutting small shoots or stems with a knife can be effective, as long as the stem is not too knotty and not too thick. Stems as thick as your finger can often be cut through with a good sharp knife with an angled cut downward into the stem. If the stems are slightly thicker but still thin enough to bend, you can bend the stem slightly putting some pressure on to it and then cut through with your knife on the side with the tension, this tension will almost split the stem off more than cut it.


•

9

KNIVES & AXES

You will find that these splits will travel into the stump that is left and so it is best if you leave some waste so that you can trim it off neatly afterwards. Try to angle the knife blade as you cut as this will increase the slicing effect. To clean up the stump using your knife safely, you will need to use a baton striking the back edge of the knife. Sloping the knife upwards this time should get rid of these splits and create a smooth sloped cut on the stump. The cut stem will not be split but the stump will have a split surface that will need cleaning up.

Using a baton to strike the back of the knife

A nice clean sloping cut is left on the stool

You can also cut stems with an axe, billhook or parang/machete. The best way to do this if cutting stems from the stump is to get down on your knees making sure there are no branches nearby that are going to catch your tool as you swing and strike upwards at an angle with the tool. Make sure your hand is not holding the stem above where you are cutting, as if the tool skips off it can slide up the stem and cut your hand. This should leave a clean cut on the stump but may put a few small splits in the end of the wood you have cut. We did mention secateurs and these may not seem a very bushcrafty tool to take with you, but if you know you are going to be cutting trails down neglected paths, cutting lots of stems for basketry or wattle work, working in low A branch on a Lime tree light conditions or even want showing the collar near the young people to have a go trunk at cutting materials, then a sharp pair of secateurs are really good and very safe. One of the safest and most effective ways to cut timber for craft work is with a saw and the folding pull saws that most of us usually carry when in the woods are great for the task. A nice sharp clean pull saw will if done correctly, cut the material leaving no split on the remaining cut and will allow it to heal quickly.

A Parang can leave a very clean cut if angled properly

Secateurs are a great tool for restrictive space, or when younger people are working in the woods

10

•

When cutting wood, if the stem is small enough to support the weight with the other hand when cut, then a single cut can be used, making sure that you do not cut too close to the branch. When cutting we want to leave what is called a collar, this is the raised wrinkles at the base of the stem or branch where it is connected to the rest of the tree.

If the branch is light enough to support , cut it of f w ith one cut just in f ront of the collar

Cutting just above these will allow the tree to heal more quickly as this is where the most active cambium layer is. If the stem or branch is bigger and the weight cannot be supported with the other hand, you will need to use a step cut. This is when three separate cuts are made to prevent the wood splitting as it is cut, as this will either pinch your saw blade or could even break your blade


After you have made the cut it should have left a clean face close to the collar


completely. It will also split the material you want, or worse still split back into the branch where you are cutting it from. The first cut wants to be on the side of the branch with the compression, so the side of the direction of lean, this will help direct the fall of the stem and use the weight of the branch to help bring it down safely. This cut wants to be 4 or 5 inches up the stem from the base as we want some sacrificial material to make sure no split travels down the stem to the base. It also needs to go about a third to half of the way through the stem, no more. The second cut then wants to be about 1” or so higher and on the opposite side, the side that is under tension. As you start to cut if the branch is big the weight will start to open this cut up and eventually snap off the branch in the direction of the first cut. If the branch is smaller you can stop this cut as it gets about half way through or just over, put down your saw and then push the branch in the direction of the first cut and it will snap off. You can then go back with the saw and saw off the stub that was left leaving a nice collar.

to the saw cut you put in first. If the branch is too heavy to support make the first cut from underneath or the side under compression

Making the second cut in front of the first and on the top or side under tension. You can see the split starting to travel along the branch as it opens up

Using an axe for the second cut or the felling cut, make sure you start about 1” above the first cut as you want to leave what is called a hinge (a piece of wood that will bend as the stem starts to fall).

Using the axe to cut in the bird's mouth, notice the safe position

A good bird's mouth with a crisp back edge to help direct the angle of fall

At this point you should have the material you want and a good clean cut on the tree where it has been harvested from and this will heal naturally. Some people rub soil onto this cut to darken it so it is less visible, but we wouldn’t recommend this as the soil can harbour lots of spores/bacteria ready to infect the tree. With the threat of diseases like Ash Die Back or Sudden Oak Death, lots of foresters that prune trees as part of their management plans, go so far as to sterilise their saw from tree to tree to prevent any cross contamination. This is extreme but worth noting and you may want to sterilise your saw when returning home. If the branch is much bigger than your wrist, or you are felling a complete stem then the same technique can be used, but instead of just leaving the first cut as a saw cut you can create this into a bird's mouth or V cut in the direction of lean, this will allow the stem to bend in that direction and assist it coming down. This can be done by sawing down or just using your axe to remove the wedge, chopping down

This can all be done with an axe if you don’t have a saw but more care is needed so that you don’t hurt yourself. If using an axe always put your body position out of the impact point of the axe, so that if you miss the target you are well out of the way. Also, if you can, work on your knees as this makes it much safer as the axe will hit the ground before it hits you.

Keep chopping until the hinge is thin enough for it to start to fall

You can chop so that you leave about a tenth of the diameter of the tree as the hinge, so on a 10cm diameter tree about 1cm of wood can be left and then push the stem over. If done well the hinge will still be connected to the stem and the stump and will need to be chopped through. The stump will then need to be cleaned up removing any splits and leaving a clean slope. You can do this carefully with your axe or saw and this will now be easy to do as there will be no tension in the stem pulling on the stump as you cut. Try to make sure the stump is low to the ground and sloping away from the centre of the stool. When cutting material of this size, real care must be taken as you will be surprised by the amount of weight and the potential risk if you get it wrong. It should be noted that when cutting fresh timber from trees or hedgerows you must have permission from the landowner. Most people are quite happy to spare a few bits of wood if you ask them and it can even help to show them what you want to make from it. Quite often a gift of a small spoon, coat hook or walking stick can sometimes be a great barter for a regular supply of craft materials. Also, if you contact your local TCV group (The Conservation Volunteers www.tcv.org. uk) you can attend local meetings coppicing or hedgelaying etc. which will get you some great materials and also some useful contacts for finding a local wood to be able to use for honing your skills.

Tidy the stump at a good angle as low to the ground as you can

For further reading on axe work and saw craft try reading Bushcraft by Mors Kochanski (1988) or to watch a demonstration of safe cutting techniques check out our Youtube channel https://www.youtube. com/user/BenOrford


•

11

WILD FOODS

SUMMER SKIES, SPICY SAUCES Since we are heading towards the early summer months I want to take a look at foraging in fields this time round and examine some of the emerging edible wild plants to watch out for as summer hopefully gets underway.

W

hen compared to hedgerows or woodland, fields represent an entirely different set of conditions for the foraging bushcrafter, both in terms of the edible plant species found and the mechanics of the habitat. For a start you are dealing with an actively used, man-made and man-managed environment, when compared to moorland or woodland; although those habitats will also be ‘managed’ in their own right, albeit less obviously. One of the main differences of field habitats over those of hedgerows is that the soil and ground are constantly being disturbed to make way for crops, so that many of the weeds the forager might naturally look for in a hedgerow never get an opportunity to become established within the cropped area of a field. Rather, they will be pushed towards the hedgerow margin and fence line.

Marcus Harrison Marcus Harrison is one of the UK’s top specialists in wild foods and foraging, running his Wild Food School courses from Cornwall all year round. From time to time he gives talks at the Natural History Museum, regularly works with UK Forces and he has contributed to a UN Food and Agriculture Organization publication on edible insects.

compete against the massed foliage of cropped plants. Similarly, when the field is turned over to pasture most weed foliage becomes dominated by the leaves of grasses, again making it difficult for smaller perennial and other annuals and biennials to photosynthesise and so feed their root systems. As a result only the toughest weed species will persist in grassland. So what sort of edible wild plants might you expect to find emerging in arable fields around now? Well, apart from the ubiquitous broad-leaved dock (Rumex obtusifolius), a bothersome weed for every landowner, you may find a range of thistles, members of the goosefoot family such as fat-hen

Chickweed

The wild plant species which inhabit active field systems do vary and although it is possible for some perennial plants to exist, most will struggle because their root systems will be dislodged and broken up. Annual and biennial plants cannot generally

12 BUSHCRAFT & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE •

AUTHOR PROFILE:

Chickweed


Fat-hen

Fa t- hen

(Chenopodium album) and a variety of rather delicate annual species like chickweed (Stellaria media), field poppy (Papaver rhoeas), and shepherd's purse (Capsella bursapastoris), the latter three favouring the broken Fa t- hen soils of arable land. With the exception of the poppy – because of its height – these latter species do not, in general, survive amongst tightly packed cereals or other leaf crops so will be found nearer field or crop boundaries. However, where the light is able to penetrate the soil surface between crop rows then these delicate annuals still have a chance of taking root. Quite apart from them having to compete with other species, these edible weeds also have to survive the herbicides used in modern agriculture, so unless you know the modus operandi of a particular farmer I personally believe it is wiser to leave them out of your cooking pot unless you can guarantee the farmer hasn't sprayed his field within the last few weeks. If you have access to farmland for foraging expeditions make sure to check when a field was sprayed. Incidentally, when foraging in farmed areas you should also take into consideration the whereabouts of livestock and their potential for leaving disease-causing pathogens in the soil, on leaf surfaces, and in the water supply. If livestock are around, it would be wise to cook your foraged plants, otherwise you may use them safely in a salad. For my own part I always regard farmland as a purely industrial area and so treat it with due caution.

Shepherds Purse

Burdock

Burdock sliced

Two substantial biennial species that often find a place around field edges are the two burdocks Arctium lappa and minor. The foliage of these is absolutely vile, despite what some survival books say on the matter and even early young plant growth tastes dreadful. If you want tortured tastebuds fine by me, but if you prefer something half decent then only certain parts of the burdocks mentioned are worth harvesting: the young flowering stem in the second year of growth, and then the root at the end of year one, or at the start of year two before the flower stalk emerges. The outer rind of the flower stem is often 3 to 5 mm thick and this must be peeled away to expose the pith which is edible.


•

13

WILD FOODS

If you get the pith in its prime – that is early in the growth of the flowering stem – then it almost has the consistency and succulence of courgette flesh, and is almost of the same colour too. As the stem matures, but before the flower buds appear, then the pith becomes more cellular in structure and takes on a crunchiness that is not unpleasant once simmered until tender. There is, however, a bitterness that needs to be cooked out. The youngest soft pith can be eaten raw as a salad item and in the old days (read 17th and 18th century) it was served sliced with an oil and vinegar dressing. Young leaf stems (petioles in the botanic trade) can be eaten at a push but contain fibres and are bitter too, although Thai sweet chilli sauce can work magic on that count.

along with some spices such as chilli and continue cooking until done. The root never really softens up like a starchy potato and it retains a cellular quality that I generally equate to the texture of bamboo shoot. Indeed, if I come across burdock on one of my forages the first thing that springs to mind for a recipe is one of a number of Chinese or Thai dishes where bamboo shoots would be used.

Burdock root is a far tougher food item than the stem pith and must be treated in a different way. To start with it has varying degrees of bitterness which need to be cooked out by simmering in water. Either shred the root or cut it into matchsticks then drop into boiling water, reduce the heat, and simmer for 20 to 25 minutes, sometimes longer. Towards the end of the cooking time discard the first batch of cooking water and then add a little more

As for some of those delicate annuals mentioned – chickweed, field poppy, and shepherd's purse – use the seedlings and very youngest leaves steamed or somehow cooked up as veggie greens (this neutralises potential animal pathogens in farmland where livestock is present), although they may be eaten raw as a salad item if harvested from a clean environment.

Arctium lappa and minor are biennial plants – living for two years – so it is important to leave some specimens to go to seed, which will not happen if you decide to eat either the flower stem or the root. So the message is ‘forage sustainably’.

BEEF & BURDOCK CURRY INGREDIENTS • ½-1 cup beef - sliced • ¼ cup burdock stem - sliced • Butter or oil • ½ cup of coconut milk (or equivalent made up from block of creamed coconut) • Salt and pepper For the curry paste • ½ garlic clove • ½ shallot / small onion • Ground chilli, coriander, pepper, cumin, ginger, cinnamon & turmeric - pinches • Water • Salt

This recipe uses older burdock stem that has started to take on a cellular consistency rather than the soft early ingredient. Shredded burdock root could be used too. Here I am also using ground spices that can be easily carried in a backpack, while reconstituted dried onion and powdered garlic could substitute for those fresh ingredients.

METHOD Begin by peeling burdock stem then thinly slice the cellular pith into rounds. Cook these in simmering water for about 10 to 15 minutes (they need to retain a crunchiness, so test pieces occasionally so that they don't overcook). Meanwhile start making the curry paste... Chop and then pulp the garlic and onion, then mix in good pinches of the spices, a touch of salt, and enough water to make a paste with a ketchup-like consistency. Set aside. Next, stir-fry the beef until it has firmed up and lost any pinkness, then remove from the cooking pot and set aside. Then add the coconut milk to your pot and just bring to the boil (being careful not to burn if using thin aluminium or stainless steel camping cookware). Once the coconut begins to thicken stir in your curry paste and cook for a couple of minutes. Drain the burdock stem and add to the coconut-curry sauce (avoid adding the cooking water since this is likely to be bitter), then add the meat and a splash of fresh water. Bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook over embers for about 15 to 20 minutes. Top up with a splash of water from time to time if the sauce starts to get really thick or begins sticking. I like it with a consistency that coats the back of a spoon, but you might prefer it thicker or more fluid. Down to you. Serve with rice or fried potatoes.




•

15

LOFTY'S LIFE STORIES

IT NEVER RAINS IT POURS Often during my military career I prayed for rain. Water is the spice of life and without it nothing grows or survives. In Aden, now Yemen, laying on a hillside baking in the sun we dreamt of rain. We had to carry all of our water and used it sparingly.

A

t 10 pounds per gallon the weight soon mounted up. Day temperatures exceeded 100 degrees and the minimum requirement was a gallon a day each. We tried to operate for as long as possible but five days was the maximum before resupply was essential. This defeated the object of why we were there as it was crucial that the enemy did not know of our existence. As soon as we took a resupply our location was compromised and we had to move. With packs weighing well over 100 lbs this was very difficult in mountainous terrain, at night. In many ways it was counterproductive to carry all that weight as it required a lot of water to do so. Eight pints was the absolute minimum for a twenty four hour period. We tried it with less but suffered serious consequences. We moved at night which demanded taking in a large volume of water, and laid up during the day which required less fluids. But on average no matter how carefully we rationed ourselves, eight pints was the minimum requirement to be able to undertake the type of mission we were deployed on. When water is scarce you get to know the true value of this vital commodity that we take for granted. For most people it’s just a matter of turning a tap to get as much clean drinking water as required. This may sound ridiculous but we carried a dehydrated ration. Weight was so critical that it was better to carry a ration that needed water to make it palatable, rather than a heavier ration that contained its own fluids. It gave us the choice of whether to eat or not. Sometimes because of the heat and thirst we were not hungry, so this was another way of saving water. You can only operate for short periods on these limitations before health is affected. Our weight loss was dramatic and after a month we looked like stray dogs. Cuts and abrasions caused by the sharp volcanic rock


AUTHOR PROFILE:

John 'LOFTY' Wiseman Lofty Wiseman served with 22 SAS for over 26 years, rising to the rank of Sergeant-Major. He ran the SAS selection course and the Survival School, ensuring that the standards for the SAS remained high. After he retired, he wrote The SAS Survival Handbook , first published in 1986. Selling over 2 million copies, it has been translated into 18 different languages and adapted for the Collins Pocket Guide and iPhone App selling hundreds of thousands each year.

didn’t heal up and became infected. The best treatment for this was a dip in the sea, this worked wonders. We were based on the coast so any chance we had, we took to the warm water. When it did rain in the Middle East, it was torrential. Wadis, which are dried up water courses, become torrents. The danger was when it rained in the mountains, these water courses were often blocked by debris, forming dams which would hold back a huge amount of water. Eventually these would collapse and a wall of water over 20 feet high would come rushing down with no warning, sweeping away all before it. One minute no water, the next too much. I witnessed an amazing turn of events in Little Aden in the early 1960s. The Royal Tank Regiment were engaged on a rapid deployment exercise, deploying their tanks up country. The sand was particularly fine in this area and there was a heavy rainstorm. As the tanks left the coast in battle formation, one by one they sank into the wet sand and became firmly bogged in. One tank would go to the aid of another and also become stuck. Eventually the whole Squadron was bogged down. A recovery tank which was exactly like the battle tanks, but whose turret and gun had been replaced with a crane, dozer blade, winches, and tow chains, arrived to help recovery. This too became bogged down.


When nature wants to be it is unbeatable. A tank is designed to cross any terrain and costs millions, but cannot compete with the force or power of nature. It took two days to recover all of the tanks. Other tracked vehicles were summoned which stayed on firm ground and winched and towed the stricken tanks to safety. The best way to travel was to wait till the tide went out and drive along the beach. Here the sand was firm and smooth. We would travel as far as possible up the beach in in an open top Land Rover before turning inland where the tracks were rutted and full of holes, they were also mined. Wherever possible we avoided recognised tracks and made our own. The poor old tankys were doing exactly this, but on this occasion the weight of the tanks was too much for the wet sand which compacted more than usual, allowing the tank to sink down to its belly. Once the vehicle bellied out the tracks had no purchase and just churned up the sand allowing it to sink lower. This rapid deployment exercise was the slowest in history. Quicksand can be a problem to the unwary. Estuaries are especially dangerous as a combination of fine sand and mud form an unstable surface. Swimmers and waders can sink into this and struggling only speeds up the sinking process. Peaty areas in the mountains also offer the same dangers. On selection it wasn’t unusual to sink as far as the bottom of the bergan. The drill then was to lean backwards slipping out of the pack and lying flat, using a swimming motion to get back to firm ground. Don’t attempt to go forward as you don’t know the extent of the bog, but you do know where firm ground is behind you. In the jungle it rained every day in the dry season, regular as clockwork and all day long in the monsoon. In the dry season, about four o’clock in the afternoon when we were at our lowest ebb, the rain would come crashing down, revitalising tired bodies. All day was spent sneaking around trying not to make any noise which would alert the enemy. We only whispered when necessary and used hand signals to communicate. Avoiding treading on twigs and leaves that left sign and made a noise was very taxing. But when it rained you could shout at the top of your voice and no one would hear you. The rain striking the vegetation with great force shrouded all other noises. The best sensation in the world was lying in a hammock under a poncho, eating a hot curry, with the rain lashing down. The worse sensation was when the poncho developed a leak and water gradually seeped in, and before you realised it the hammock was full of water. This meant another sleepless night and once your dry kit was wet, there was little sense in carrying it, as there was no way we could dry it out. Rivers that you crossed in the morning could become raging torrents after rain in the afternoon. Even small tributaries could become dangerous to cross. Many a night was spent out huddled together under a foil blanket, as we couldn’t get back to our base camp. This was one reason why we each carried a survival pouch on our belt gear. This would be packed in a mess tin which contained, brew kit, meat block, hard tack biscuits, foil blanket and

hexy blocks which we cooked on. We got as much as possible into this pouch taking up all the space left with matches, soup powder, or oxo cubes. It’s surprising what you can squeeze in. I am often asked, "how long does your emergency food last". The answer to this is, "until you are rescued or safe". Another time we looked forward to rain was when travelling in boats in the headwaters in Borneo. If the water was low the boat and all the stores had to be unloaded and carried around obstacles to deeper water. This was a lengthy back breaking chore. After heavy rainfall, the swollen river made it easier to negotiate the rapids and saved a lot of portage. It’s like everything else in life we either get too much or too little. We can handle everything in moderation and should always try to avoid extremes, too much of any one thing is bad for us. We can control most things but Mother Nature has a mind of her own. My heart bleeds for all those people who got caught out in the floods. I watched with concern as the puddle outside my house got bigger and bigger during the recent storms. The drains were unable to cope with the deluge and the water rose, lapping over the kerb, but we were fortunate. I can only think of the anguish that people suffered in flooded areas. The SAS Regiment came to Hereford in 1960 when they had the worst floods on record. We were deployed taking food and supplies to isolated villages. I climbed up the side of a cottage which was isolated and cut off, to hand a flask of tea to an elderly lady. The water was up to the downstairs window sills and she had moved upstairs. As I handed the flask to her, precariously balanced on wet bricks and hanging onto a dodgy creeper, she asked, “Has it got sugar in it?” I said, "Yes love, it's got everything in and it's nice and hot”. She replied, “I don’t take sugar”. I fell off the wall and swam back to the boat that was stuck on a gate post. Some days are better than others. Excuse the pun but these memories come flooding back when I look out the window watching the rain. Let's look forward to a good summer.


•

17



Book

Reviews

THE WALKER'S GUIDE TO OUTDOOR CLUES AND SIGNS by Tristan Gooley (May 2014)

Written by accomplished writer and natural navigator Tristan Gooley, this book is a bit like brain training for walkers - it treats all things outdoors as clues which when they are noticed and understood will help the walker not only find their way without a compass, but also read the landscape and even predict the weather. The writing style is refreshing - Gooley believes there's no need for fancy kit when you go walking, while the sum total of his health and safety advice to walkers is summed up in three words 'don't be daft'.

REVIEWED BY ELAINE GILBOY is a sense the reader can feel a bit smug for now knowing quite interesting things about nature. In a section about finding north by a number of lesser known constellations Gooley writes "it's sometimes fun to know things that almost no other walker knows". Although there is a lot of information crammed in the book and clearly a lot of science, this is all easily digestible and illustrated with diagrams where needed. Every fact is backed up with detailed sources and there are lists of further reading. Unlike Q.I. however, Gooley always indicates the practical benefits of each new revelation. The reader is encouraged to get out and practice finding signs in the landscape and to learn how they help you navigate and connect with the natural world. It is very appealing that these techniques can be applied on any walk in any terrain, even in urban areas. Alongside all this information, the author includes very entertaining accounts of his own journeys, as a foolhardy teenager, a not much less foolhardy adult walking as a leisure pursuit, to his current adventures as an explorer and instructor.

The environment is discussed in a series of chapters, including Ground, Trees, Plants, Rocks, Sky, Stars, Animals, Town and Coasts. There are little gems in every section, from an interesting discussion on perspective in the chapter on ground, to the fact that young ivy leaves with many lobes grow away from the light, while mature leaves with a single point grow towards the light, to the information that lots of red in a rainbow means each individual raindrop is large. The book reminds me a bit of the TV programme Q.I. as there

An excellent account of time spent with the Dayak tribe in Borneo closes the book. My only slight criticism is that many of the chapters have intriguing questions as subheadings. These questions are not always explicitly answered, which bothers me like an unfinished crossword puzzle. I have read the Plants chapter three times and still can't answer the subheading Why should we tread carefully when we see hot dogs? I think it might be because nettles surround areas of habitation, but when you read the book see what you think and do let me know!

ARMAGEDDON COOKBOOK AND DOOMSDAY KITCHEN

read, but never bother to act upon. Similarly the chapters on eating insects or breeding flies or rats are thorough, but not practical when eating rats you are advised to first make sure they haven't been in sewers or eating rubbish, (surely the point of rats?)

by Marcus Harrison (August 2013)

Where Tristan Gooley is somewhat genial Marcus Harrison is deadly serious with his Armageddon Cookbook. The book is designed to help the reader find and prepare food and water in the long term in case of a major emergency where "there will be no shiny cavalry appearing on the horizon". While I ally myself to the "pampered civilian populations of industrialized Western cultures" who believe that after a disaster there will still be governance, infrastructure (and food), should his post apocalyptic vision come to pass we will be well prepared with this book. The concept of life in a post-disaster Stone Age is very attractive to my teenage son, a World War Z fan, but actually the practical advice to become more prepared for shorter term disasters, to be better acquainted with sources of food close to home and to not waste any part of an animal is timely. Early chapters on mental preparedness and the cost of acquisition, (how much of a nutritional return you get for the effort you put into finding and preparing food) are good, but others on doomsday decision making or food tolerance are less useful and a bit like the warning label on a sunscreen that you might

These sections are short, however and the book comes into its own when dealing with more regular wild food topics, how to skin and gut a rabbit, deer or trap, gut and fillet a fish, which are the best edible plants and seaweeds and how you can identify them, methods of cooking, setting up your outdoors kitchen, collecting and filtering water and more niche subjects such as preserving food and candlemaking. Every topic is clearly explained and illustrated and economy of effort is the guiding principle. While there is always a chapter to bring you back to the seriousness of the topic, (the description of cholera is not cheery), the last third of the book is full of recipes and these have a sense of gallows humour. The majority of meat recipes are offal-related and not for the faint-hearted, so Blood and Guts Soup is fairly representative. As the book assumes we are in a post-disaster world the recipes have a limited palette of ingredients, but there are some very tempting suggestions such as Liver Loaf, Chickweed and Potato Frittata, or Wild Cherry Soup, so we don't need to wait for a disaster to try these out. Purchase your discounted copy for only £10 (with a PVC book cover) www.wildfoodschool.co.uk

WIN A COPY OF THESE BOOK S.

W IN

t he se! W I N book

Send in your details to win a copy of one of thse book s, detailing which you would lik e to win. s p3) (see T&C BUSHCRAFT SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE 19 Follow Bushcraft &&Survival Skills Magazine on Facebook

s!


•

INTHENEWS NEWS JUST IN… We are thrilled to announce that Steve Backshall, Adventurer, Explorer, Author and Award Winning TV Presenter is coming to The Bushcraft Show 2014. Find out more on p74

CHARITY CASTAWAY CHALLENGE Fancy getting away from it all, giving your bushcraft skills a challenge and all for a good cause? Dorset-based charity, Diverse Abilities Plus is offering a once in a-lifetime chance to take part in an exciting ‘Castaway Five Day Challenge’, to raise funds for children and adults with profound physical and/or learning disabilities and their families. During the challenge you will experience fundamental elements of survival, which include natural shelter building, navigation using the sun and stars, firelighting techniques and secret challenges. Taking place in a mystery woodland, near a beautiful beach in the South West of England from 20th to 24th September 2014, the Castaway Five Day Challenge is ideal for motivational team-building. You can attend either alone, or with friends, family or colleagues. No physical fitness is required – just a sense of fun and adventure, which begins right at the start as you are whisked away to your mystery location by speedboat, kindly supplied by Powerboat Training UK. James Harris, last year’s Castaway survivor record this in his diary, “Over the course of the castaway challenge we learned many valuable survival skills and the instructors were second to none. Life in camp wasn’t easy and there was always something that needed to be done, but the atmosphere was excellent and strong friendships were made. I will definitely be doing the challenge again, it really is an experience of a lifetime and I can honestly say it was one of the best weeks of my life. As I’m writing this it’s been less than 24 hours since we left the Castaway camp and a part of me wishes I was still there”. Entry is £50 per person and each participant is asked by the charity to raise a minimum of £550 in sponsorship. Diverse Abilities Plus will support participants with fundraising ideas to help reach their target. The challenge is suitable for anyone aged eighteen years and older. For more information or to book/reserve your place now for this fantastic experience please contact: Sharon Wells 01202 718266 [email protected] For more information visit www.diverseabilitiesplus.org.uk/events

20

•


COMPETITION WINNERS... P16 Be on the Front Cover – James & Finley Hitch – See them next issue! P44 The Wild Life Book – Robert Simpson P44 Wildwood Wisdom Book – Lisa Lawson P62 Frontier Stove – Jenni Taylor P64 EKA Sharpening Tool – Alison Barr

NATURAL NAVIGATOR’S NEW BOOK Tristan Gooley, known as the Natural Navigator has written the ultimate guide to what the land, sun, moon, stars, trees, plants, animals, sky and clouds can reveal when you know what to look for.

R EA D R EV I E W P 19

The Walker's Guide to Outdoor Clues and Signs is the result of two decades of pioneering outdoors experience and six years of instructing, researching and writing. It includes over 850 outdoor clues and signs that will not be found in any other book in the world. Being viewed as the most comprehensive guide to natural navigation for walkers and indeed bushcrafters ever compiled, it also contains clues for weather forecasting, tracking, city walks, coast walks, night walks and dozens of other areas. Due out 8th May 2014.

DOLPHINS SPY IN THE POD From the creators of Earthflight and Penguins – Spy In The Huddle comes an awe-inspiring new two-part series Dolphins – Spy In The Pod. Narrated by David Tennant this fascinating series shows some of the most captivating and clever animals on the planet as never before. Last year it aired on BBC One and it is now available on DVD and Blu-ray. For the first time 13 cameras mounted inside camouflaged creatures including Spy Dolphin, Spy Tuna and Spy Turtle infiltrate the secret underwater world of dolphins. Swimming right alongside them, these cameras reveal unique moments in the dolphins’ lives – catching the waves with surfing bottlenose dolphins, discovering a megapod of superfast spinner dolphins, observing a pod of dolphins whipping up a mud wall to encircle mullet and panic them straight into their waiting mouths. Rob Pilley, producer of the Spy in the Pod series said, “Our office is full of many bizarre spy cameras, from Spy Penguins to a Spy Elephant Poo that we use as a door stop! This time, unlike the Spy Penguin, our spy creatures had to keep pace with fast-moving dolphins, often out in the deep ocean. The dolphins were very curious about their new neighbours and allowed them into their lives. Many of the spy creatures received knocks and bumps or were even destroyed in the making of the film, and we bring them back and try to rebuild them for future projects”. Most of the behaviour captured has never been seen before – bottlenose dolphins hunting alongside a mysterious gathering of stingrays, and a superpod of spinner dolphins chasing lantern fish, helped by two-metre wide mobula rays.

W IN ! We have 2 DVD’s of Spy in the Pod to giveaway. Send in your details (See T&C’s p3)

DVD available online

BBC WANT BRITISH FEMALE BUSHCRAFT PRESENTER We have been approached by a development producer for the BBC's Natural History Unit in Bristol who works in the Children's department and develops new ideas for children's programmes for CBBC and Cbeebies. The producer is currently developing a survival type show for 8 - 12 yr olds and is looking for a female survival/ bushcraft expert and this is proving quite difficult. So we are on the look out for a female bushcraft and survival expert to host the programme. If you fancy working for the BBC, seeing yourself on TV and sharing bushcraft and survival skills with children then let us know by emailing [email protected] with a letter about your experience, your CV and photograph.

Do you have bushcraft news that you would like to share? Email [email protected]

WILDLIFE

NATURE'SCALENDAR MAY - JUNE Five-spot Burnet moth

AUTHOR PROFILE:

Pablo Pablo is a life-long wildlife enthusiast. He has a military and law-enforcement background and has a wide range of teaching and training qualifications. He uses a combination of bushcraft, tracking and fieldcraft skills to get close to wildlife. He has tracked wildlife in various locations around the world including Southern Africa. Pablo runs Woodlife Trails; a Bushcraft and Tracking school and Woodlife Social Network, a site dedicated to wildlife, tracking and bushcraft.

The freshness of spring still lingers over the UK and nature is settling down to early summer with extended periods of daylight and a bit of warmth. This is the time when we start looking more at plants and insects, but there’s still quite a bit of mammal activity as well.

MAMMALS Many mammals will have already have given birth and are working hard to feed their ever-hungry young. If they haven't already, fox cubs and badger cubs will very soon start exploratory excursions away from dens or setts. This is a good time to spot young animals. If you do come across one (particularly deer) don’t be mistaken into thinking that it may have been abandoned. The mother of quite a few species will often leave the young animal alone and go on a foraging mission herself leaving the young animal quiet and still, relying on natural camouflage to avoid detection.

in the woods where they browse during the day. Badger trails will crisscross the woodland on wide, regular pathways while rabbit runs will lead to feeding sites or directly to the safety of a burrow.

At this time of year it’s also a Hedgehogs will be good opportunity particularly active to look at the in the evenings. trails and runs They have been throughout your previously classed area. Vegetation as insectivores, but will still be actually they like low enough just about anything to show these they come across trails and runs in including frogs, woodland. At the toads, birds eggs, height of summer An early spring morning heralds a cacophony of earthworms and these will be dawn chorus in the woods and forests even vegetation. overgrown and photo © Nigel Grigsby Hedgehogs will difficult to spot. mate around And yes, there is this time a difference between a trail and a run. Trails are like motorways of year. There’s a standing joke on and they are usually used by any number of species, whereas how hedgehogs mate – usually runs are normally species specific. Look at the edge of the woods eliciting the ‘carefully’ for deer and fox trails. You will also see some deer trails further



Hedgehogs mate at this time of year

response! In actual fact this is absolutely true. The female must completely flatten her back before the male can mount her, otherwise he could be seriously injured on her spines. Mating lasts only a few minutes amongst lots of noise, not unlike the pig-type grunting which gives rise to their ‘hog’ names. The pair will then separate, the male playing no further part in bringing up the family. If the mating is successful, the babies are born in a month’s time.

wildflower. We run our courses in the beautiful and ancient Hatfield Forest and one of our rarities is the Oxlip; a country cousin to the Cowslip and in the UK quite a rarity, only found in a triangle between North Essex, Cambridgeshire and Suffolk. You can see the difference in that the Oxlip doesn’t have the orange stripes in the yellow petals. This might go unnoticed unless you are a careful observer of wildlife. Some orchids are in flower like this bee orchid

Look out for rare wildflowers like this oxlip

PLANTLIFE May and June are the months for flowering plants. You can take your pick from countless numbers of plants like Bluebells, Wild garlic, Pignut, Oxeye Daisy, Yellow Rattle, Cowslips, Lady's Smock and too many others to mention here. Hedgerow plants and many orchids will be in full flower in June, including the wonderful Bee orchid. During May the canopy will usually close and new wildflowers will be found in meadows as opposed to woods; but if like last year the flowering season is late, you may find a delay of up to three weeks before some plants appear. More wildflowers bloom in June than in any other month of the year. Look out for rarer flowers, hellebores or orchids. Nearly every area has its own rarity, or at least uncommon species of

Close study of wildflowers involve a good reference book and a loupe

Summer migrants include swifts and swallows

Photo © Nigel Grigsby

If you’re really interested or want to be interested in wildflowers, a great investment is a piece of equipment called a loupe. These are professional magnifying glasses used by both botanists and jewelers alike and are reasonable inexpensive. A loupe opens up a whole new world to the observer. Don’t forget to take notes and record your sightings.

BIRDS In early May bird song will be at its peak, dropping off rapidly as chicks fledge. Most chicks from first broods will have been born by now and later in the month and into June careful observers will notice fledging birds making first tentative excursions from the nests. Fledging is the last part of a number of elements making up the breeding season, including nest-building, egg-laying, incubation, nesting and finally, fledging. Depending on the species, time from hatching to fledging may take days or weeks; for example, a house sparrow will fledge in 12 days, while a peregrine falcon may take around 6 weeks. A barn owl chick will take 2 to 3 months to fledge. Many species will also have more than one brood. For the tracker it’s worth noting that later June and into July bird song will be a very much quieter than at other times of year, apart from mid-winter. Anything apart from moderate territorial calls may be an indicator that other things are going on in and around the area. Summer migrant species will start to arrive from places like Africa.


•

23

WILDLIFE

INSECTS Insect activity will be reaching its peak as the sun warms the air earlier and quicker. While butterfly activity won’t peak until mid-July, there will still be plenty to look out for. Peacock butterflies often hibernate in houses and are usually the first to emerge. The all-yellow Brimstone will fly even when temperatures aren’t too high. The raggedwinged Comma and Speckled Wood butterflies can be found on the edges of woodlands while, perhaps a little later, you may find the Photo © Nigel Grigsby fast-flying Painted Lady amongst the hedgerows. You will have to look a little higher in the tree canopy to find truly magnificent butterflies like the Purple Emperor. Moths will also be emerging. Most moths are night-flying but look out for day-flying moths like the red and black Cinnabar, or Burnet moths. These moths hatch from paper-like cocoons on hard stems of plants. They are particularly fond of field scabious and will feast and even mate on the plant.

Day flying moths like this Five-spot Burnet moth feed on meadow flowers

The resulting empty case, called exuvia, will often be found still clasped to the reed stem. It is possible to identify the species from the exuvia. Adult dragonfly activity may still be a little subdued as many start their lives away from the ponds where they were born. Maturing dragonflies are often found far from water. This is called ‘hilltopping’ and happens when they make their first flight, spending a few days or even weeks feeding and maturing. Of course, these areas needn’t be hilltops or even high ground; perhaps a sheltered area or a hedgerow.

AQUATIC

An emerging dragonfly adult leaves the exuvia on the reed stem

Photo © Nigel Grigsby

Young frogs and toads will be developing quickly. In June they will leave the water. Look out for activity particularly around ponds as dragonfly larvae metamorphose into adults from their naiad form. The act of climbing out from the water onto a reed and being exposed to the air causes the naiad to commence breathing, the larval skin splits and the adult dragonfly crawls out.

24

•


Next issue: Mid-Summer sees more bat, reptile and dragonfly activity.



•

25

BOOT CAMP

BOOTCAMP As the weather improves and people venture out and about we take a look at caring for a most vital bit of kit - your boots! Your boots are one of the most important pieces of kit that you have, happy feet result in happy adventures. Good boots are vital to your safety on the given terrain and to ensure your comfort. Make sure that your boots are suitable for the environment and terrain that you intend to use them in, for example desert boots differ greatly to mountain boots that can take a crampon…

that they \

So let’s take your boots to boot camp! • Fit is of paramount importance, so try your boots on and make sure that they fit well, not too tight but without unnecessary movement that can cause blisters. Consider what socks you will wear with them and try them on together. • New boots should be ‘broken in’, wear your new boots around the house and for short walks before setting off for a big hike in them so that they soften and form to your feet. When breaking in new leather boots it could help to put some conditioner on them to soften the leather and aid the process.

are full of shredded paper, fur, nuts and morsels of food as mice love to use them to bed down in over the winter months. Storing them in sunlight can lead to discolouration, deterioration and drying out of the leather.

Cleaning your boots Bang your boots to remove any loose mud then with a stiff brush brush your boots to remove as much dry mud as you can before wetting them. Generally the boots that we use are waterproof and so there is no problem taking a hose to them. Remove the laces, these can be hand washed, or put in your washing machine with some other gear on a low heat wash. Depending upon the severity, use a damp cloth or hose them off, brushing if necessary.

• Brush off any mud with a stiff brush. • Inspect your boots visually, look out for any damage, perishing of the rubber, particularly around the rand, wear and splits in the soles and damage to the internal lining which could cause blistering or render them leaky. • Check the laces, are there any nicks that could weaken them? Have the ends frayed (see below). • Clean your boots and if leather, treat the leather. Leather boots can last for many, many years but you will need to nourish the leather! (see below) • Store in a ‘cool dry place’… if you keep your boots in a garage or shed, be sure to keep them in a storage box or, when you come to need them you may well find the laces and linings nibbled and


If the inside of your boots are a bit grimy take a damp cloth to the inside too, if they are really dirty or smelly and have a full waterproof liner such as Gore-Tex that you want to clean out then you can take out the footbed at the bottom of your boot and fill the boot with warm water and a cleaning product like Nikwax Tech Wash leave for 10-20 mins agitating occasionally and then empty the boot and put to dry. If the lining does not extend throughout the boot, clean it by using a damp cloth with some of the cleaning agent rather than filling with water. Once clean, let your boots dry at room temperature. NB: Never put your boots by the fire or on a hot radiator to dry, this will cause the leather (and indeed rubber and fabrics on non leather boots) to harden and shrink and can cause it to crack and at the extreme pull away from the sole.


Dressing Leather Boots Leather boots are great but they do require a little more care than synthetic products, after all the leather used to be on a live animal where it was nourished naturally with oils. Once you have cleaned your boots (use saddle soap for this), use a good quality leather conditioner or nourishing cream and work this into the leather all over the boots with your fingers. You may wish to do two applications once the first has had chance to soak in to ensure that your boots are well and truly nourished. A saddlers shop will be able to recommend a selection of quality leather care products, some major footwear companies recommend products from Grangers and Nikwax. The next and final step (if you have not used a combined conditioning wax) is to seal the boots and apply a waterproof protective layer, they are then ready to take on the toughest terrain!

Did you know that the little flugelworzely wotzits at the end of your laces are called aglets! What to do if your laces are fraying, or you have a crushed aglet…

An aglet

• Melt the end! If your laces are synthetic you can heat the end and roll it between your thumb and finger (take care not to burn yourself, melted plastic is sticky). This will provide a great long lasting solution. • Use tape. If you are out in the field and you have some insulating tape bind the end of the lace tightly, stretching the tape as you apply it. This will give you a temporary fix.

Past hope...

Soaking the end of a lace in glue or nail varnish can seal the end of the lace. A variation to this is to whip some thread around the end of the lace first before sealing, as if you were tying a fly, or whipping rings to a fishing rod. • You may be able to get hold of some metal (usually brass) aglets that you can crimp on, alternatively you could see what trace making materials your local fishing tackle shop has as they often sell a chromed sleeving to crimp the ends of wire traces. A very effective aglet is formed by using heat shrink tubing. Designed for electrical applications it is available in a variety of thicknesses and works well! BUSHCRAFT & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE

•

27

ADVANCED BUSHCRAFT

FINDINGAPLACETO PRACTICE BUSHCRAFT SKILLS

AUTHOR PROFILE:

Paul Kirtley Owner and Chief Instructor of Frontier Bushcraft. Paul, also a Mountain Leader was previously Course Director at Woodlore. He spent 10 years studying and training under the guidance of world-renowned bushcraft expert Ray Mears, first as a student on his courses, then as an employee. Paul is one of only a few people who have been recognised by Ray Mears as a bushcraft instructor, being awarded the celebrated antler-handled Woodlore instructor's knife.

At some stage we all want to find somewhere we can go to practice our bushcraft skills.

Y

et land ownership, laws, bylaws, regulations and access codes limit us in what can be done where.

So, first we have to understand the legal landscape.

Laws Relating To Bushcraft In the UK, there are no laws relating to bushcraft as a whole. But there are a whole list of laws which are relevant to the activities which often fall under the term bushcraft – particularly with respect to fires, knives, foraging, fishing, trapping, not to mention access and camping.

Many upland areas are now designated open access where you have the “right to roam”.

While this may sound draconian, it is worth considering which aspects of bushcraft you want to practice. You may have more options open to you than you first think.

Access Access is probably the biggest issue in the minds of those looking for somewhere to practice bushcraft skills. Most land in the UK is owned privately or by local authorities, even in National Parks. It’s therefore some people’s assumption that landowner’s permission is required to set foot on any land. In many instances, particularly in England and Wales, this is correct. There are, however, also many exceptions. For starters, there are a multitude of public footpaths and bridleways criss-crossing England and Wales that should not be ignored. They give access to wonderful landscapes and unique habitats. These public rights of way are marked clearly on Ordnance Survey maps. On the 1:50,000 Landranger series, footpaths and bridleways are marked in red; on the 1:25,000 Explorer series they are marked in green.


Further, the Countryside and Rights Of Way Act 2000 (CROW) established areas of open access land where access by foot is permitted. These areas are clearly marked - shaded a light yellow - on recent OS 1:25,000 maps as well as a set of definitive maps available online at http://www.naturalengland.org.uk/ourwork/ access/openaccess/default.aspx This land largely consists of upland and uncultivated areas. In such areas there is the “right to roam”, that is you do not have to stick to footpaths and bridleways. For best practice, it’s also worth familiarising yourself with The Countryside Code, available at http://www.naturalengland.org.uk/ ourwork/enjoying/countrysidecode/default.aspx


In Scotland, access is governed by the Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003. It also provides a framework for access to inland water. This legislation formalises the tradition in Scotland of unhindered access to open countryside. It gives the right to be on any land for recreational purposes (including cycling and horse riding, but not hunting, shooting, fishing or with motorised vehicles) and to cross land if done responsibly. It does not provide blanket permission to access land under any circumstances, however, as you must not cause damage, particularly to crops, or interfere with economic activities such as stalking or impinge on people’s privacy. This is reflected by The Scottish Outdoor Access Code, which is available at http://www.outdooraccess-scotland.com/ On Ordnance Survey maps of Scotland, public rights of way are not distinguished from other tracks or footpaths. Further, Scottish local authorities have no obligation to signpost or mark a public right of way.

stove rather than light an open fire. If you do wish to light an open fire, keep it small, under control, and supervised - fires that get out of control can cause major damage, for which you might be liable. Never light an open fire during prolonged dry periods or in areas such as forests, woods, farmland or on peaty ground or near to buildings or in cultural heritage sites where damage can be easily caused. Heed all advice at times of high risk. Remove all traces of an open fire before you leave.” In Northern Ireland, landowner’s permission is required for a campfire. For the UK’s most complete wild camping experiences, head to Scotland.

In Northern Ireland, the number of public rights of way is very limited. Much access is down to landowners having granted permission – known as permissive access. Long distance footpaths also have the required landowner’s permission as part of their establishment. Much public land is also accessible. Rights of way are marked on Ordnance Survey maps.

Camping To camp in England and Wales, you need to have landowner’s permission. Wild camping is, however, tolerated in many upland areas – largely coinciding with open access land – but be prepared to move on if asked. In Scotland, access rights extend to camping and it is therefore legal to camp where there are no seasonal camping restrictions (such as on the shores of Loch Lomond). It’s recommended, however, that you stick to unenclosed land so to avoid interfering with farming activities.

Wild camping is tolerated in many upland areas of England and Wales.

Foraging/Plant use Under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981, covering the whole of the UK, it is illegal to uproot any wild plant without permission from the landowner. Legally, to uproot means to dig up or remove the specimen from the land. This definition is also extended to lichen, algae and fungi. Also, the protection of plants in Northern Ireland is in place under the Wildlife (Northern Ireland) Order, 1985. There are extra protections for plants in Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSIs), Areas of Special Scientific Interest (ASSIs) and National Nature Reserves. Even landowners can be prosecuted for removing or damaging species in these areas unless they have consulted the relevant statutory body.

You need landowner’s permission to uproot plants.

The situation in Northern Ireland is similar to England and Wales in that strictly speaking you need the landowner’s permission to camp, but wild camping is tolerated in many upland areas such as the Mourne Mountains.

Fires To have a campfire in England and Wales, you must have the landowner’s permission. Having a campfire in Scotland is allowed. It is recommended under the outdoor access code, though, that “Wherever possible, use a

Endangered plants are listed as “Schedule 8” plants under the legislation. These cannot be picked, uprooted or destroyed.


•

29

ADVANCED BUSHCRAFT

So we can pick flowers, leaves, berries, nuts, seeds and fungi in areas where we have legal access but we must obtain landowner’s permission to dig out roots and tubers or remove entire plants. When foraging, you would be wise also to follow the Botanical Society of the British Isles’ Code of Conduct for the Conservation and Enjoyment of Wild Plants. Specific relevant parts include:

also the advice given by the articles - was how to go about getting landowner permission. When it comes to bushcraft, I see a parallel situation. Many people want access to land, but not many know how to go about it. One thing should be clear from the start, it's not always easy. Many landowners or land agents will just say no.

Take flowers and foliage only from large patches of the plant. First you need to understand a landowner's typical concerns... Always pick in moderation so that plenty is left for others to enjoy. Be careful not to damage other vegetation. This code and a full list of endangered Schedule 8 plants can be found at: http://www.bsbi.org.uk/Code_of_Conduct.pdf In terms of non-foraging use of plants, including trees, you generally need the landowner's permission. The trees and plants are the landowner's property and removal without their permission is technically theft under the Theft Act, 1968.

Privacy: Many landowners who live on an estate view it as their garden. If a complete stranger phoned you, emailed you or knocked on your door and asked if they could camp in your back garden or yard, how would you react? Approach any landowner with a request to use their land with sensitivity towards their privacy. Damage: At the heart of a landowner’s concern is the fact they don’t know you. They don’t know if you are a responsible individual whose interests are aligned with theirs. A fundamental concern is whether you will damage their land/property. Concerns over damage are generally even greater if there is one or more SSSIs present on the site.

This extends to firewood and other materials lying on the ground. There are some exceptions on Common Land.

Trapping The only legal trapping you are likely to be doing in the UK under the banner of bushcraft and survival is snaring. Defra's 2005 code of practice on the use of snares for fox and rabbit control can be accessed here http://archive.defra.gov.uk/wildlife-pets/wildlife/ management/documents/snares-cop.pdf The use of spring traps and cages (live catching) are restricted further. There are also offences for snaring specific wild species under Schedule 6 of the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981. Further protection is afforded to deer under the Deer Act 1991. Under the Protection of Animals Act 1911 it is an offence to fail to check a snare. Under all circumstances, you should obtain the landowner’s permission and follow the codes of practice set out by Defra at: https://www.gov.uk/government/organisations/department-forenvironment-food-rural-affairs

Litter: You only need to look at your typical countryside layby to know there are a lot of irresponsible, anti-social idiots who think others will tidy up after them, or simply just don’t care. Understandably any self-respecting landowner wants to keep this type of people off their land. Fire: Landowners see fire as a risk. Land in the UK costs a lot of money. Landowners have a lot of capital tied up in their land. Large landowners are often asset rich but cash poor. They need to try to generate an income from the land they own, ranging from farming to forestry to shooting. Out-of-control fires are a risk not only to their property but also their income (and the incomes of those who depend upon them for work). Disruption of estate activities and safety concerns: There are many activities that can occur even on a modest piece of land. There is often woodland management, from coppicing to commercial forestry. In my experience, those engaged in these activities are keen to run a safe operation and do not want to be felling trees near to people. Nor do they want people wandering around amongst their operation. Deer management often goes

Landowner Permission and the Law At this juncture, having just discussed the protection of plants, trees and animals, it’s worth pointing out explicitly - although it should be obvious - that landowner’s permission does not trump the law. Even if you have landowner’s permission to “do what you like” on a site, this does not put you outside of the relevant legislation. There are some things you cannot legally do even with landowner’s permission, for example removing protected plants or trapping animals with deadfalls.

Obtaining Landowner’s Permission Having an area of private land to which you are allowed access is the holy grail for many people who want to practice their skills in a natural setting. When I was a teenager I was a keen air-rifle shooter. I read the air rifle magazines and a constant theme - in reader's letters but


Landowners typically need to generate an income from their land. You need to fit in with this.


hand in hand with woodland management. There is much more stalking in the British countryside than many people realise. Stalking may be undertaken by the landowner, game keepers, paying clients, or a local stalking syndicate. Any access by you needs to be coordinated with any stalking activity – both so that you do not disturb animals and, more importantly, so you don’t get shot. If there are game birds put down in the woods, then the landowner, game keeper, or shooting syndicate will not want their birds disturbed, particularly when they are young. Again this requires understanding on your part and coordination with the individuals involved. There may also be some control of foxes in the area, which usually involves shooting at night with highpowered rifles. Again, for concerns purely regarding safety, having people walking around or sleeping in the woods complicates the safety issues. Then there are a whole host of other activities which may take place on the land from dog training, to field archery clubs, to equine activities to cross-country running races. The more there is going on during the year, the more difficult the landowner may perceive integrating you into the mix to be.

the land first. If there is a gamekeeper, get to know them first. Crime: Most estates I have worked on have suffered some sort of crime, from stacks of firewood disappearing in the night, to farm machinery being stolen, to full scale burglaries of the estate house or office. Understandably, estates are usually security conscious. They do not give out keys to gates easily. This can even apply to smaller blocks of woodland that do not contain any equipment or buildings as they may allow thieves easier access to neighbouring property. Sending out the wrong message: While the landowner may be convinced you are bona fide and responsible, they may still be reluctant to let you camp on their land if they think others will see you and think that camping is allowed. This concern is most likely to apply in areas with one or more public footpaths. Most estate owners and managers are busy people. In asking for permission you are giving them something else to think about with a whole host of potential concerns (see above) if they say yes. It's far, far easier for them to just say no and get on with their day.

Poaching: There is much more poaching in the UK than most people realise. From rabbits to pheasants to deer, all manner of animals are taken illegally, often by means that are inhumane, sometimes using illegal firearms. Landowners and those who work on the land Any landowner with a have multiple safety concerns. significant population of game animals will be keen to understand that you have no interest in poaching. If you have a legitimate interest in snaring a few rabbits say, I would recommend not mentioning this at the beginning. Let them get to know you as a responsible caretaker of

That's your starting point. To maximise your chances of success, you need to demonstrate there is something in it for them. An offer of payment is an obvious option but there are other avenues too. First off, can you turn any of the landowner's concerns on their head? Can you offer to help tidy areas where there is litter?

In camping in little-used corners of woods or an estate, could your presence deter poachers? More broadly, could your presence deter other activities such as stealing firewood or kids camping and littering? There are other offers of physical help you could also make - from collecting up old tree protectors in a wood to helping the game keeper at his busiest times. Start to think laterally about what else you could help with. For example, is there a programme of rhododendron removal you could help with?

Case Studies Sometimes it can take a long while to gain access. One friend of mine, Paul Nicholls, took two years to get access to a local farmer's woodland.

The final resting place of an illegally shot and wounded deer.

Sometimes, however, it's a case of being in the right place at the right time. Mo Saleh is someone I know who has gained access to an area of woodland for his personal use.


•

31

ADVANCED BUSHCRAFT

I asked him how he gained landowner’s permission to light fires and undertake other bushcraft activities. “Well I was with Gill, picking holly for Christmas decorations at home and a woman walked up to us and started talking. I mentioned bushcraft and that I had been looking for somewhere to go.” The lady turned out to be the owner of the land through which the footpath passed and was familiar with the concept of bushcraft, having watched Ray Mears programmes. Mo went on to say, “It was a dream come true. I was in the right place at the right time.” I asked if he had to abide by any rules, “I always have to let her know when I am going, not take a lot of people, not take advantage and respect it. As long as I don’t do any damage it’s OK”. It might seem like Mo just got lucky. He was certainly fortunate to meet the owner and for her to have an understanding of bushcraft. But he had the right attitude. Mo was humble and respectful. As a result he was fortunate to receive a kind offer. He doesn’t take it for granted and respects the rules. Being respectful of a landowner’s concerns and wishes goes a long way not only to gaining access but also keeping it. Mark Hotson is someone I have known for ten years. When I first knew him he was completely new to bushcraft, having just attended a week-long course, which his wife won in a competition. Mark describes the week as “a major turning point in my life”. He took further bushcraft courses and researched more bushcraft knowledge in his spare time. “Unfortunately I felt with so many time restraints in my personal and business life I was becoming an armchair bushcrafter. However the drive to understand both the theoretical and practical sides of bushcraft spurred me on to a mission to source an area of ‘wilderness’ in which I could pursue my passion.” I asked Mark how he had gone about doing this, in particular I asked him to elaborate on the letter he had written to landowners. Mark had been thorough. He had listed referees including farmer friends and his bushcraft instructors, listed his intended activities, the policies and procedures he would adhere to, in particular a leave-no-trace policy, his safeguards around fires as well as general health and safety points. He also made clear his intent to insure the woodland and third parties by including a letter from his insurance company, which was not easy to obtain. He also offered to pay rent in advance.

the fire site first, gathered various materials, in various sizes. I built a small fire near both the raw materials and a little stream. I extinguished the fire and made good by hand to show the fire dogs and embers were of no threat. I went on to explain the fire was another tool, it would never be lit and left. During the whole process we chatted about our personal experiences in respect to spending time outdoors.” Mark was successful, “Within the month I had signed my licence to use the woodlands for bushcraft activities, I had insurance cover in place and the annual rent was paid. I had my own little bit of wilderness!” Mark continues, “I can see how some readers might think the process very simple. But from initially deciding to rent some woodland to actually setting up my first camp was nearly a ninemonth period. I had informally chatted to friendly farmers and friends in the very first instances and it was very clear the initial misconception was that a bushcrafter is a negative force in the local environment. A camouflage-clad figure who cut and burnt everything in their path - in short a liability! I quickly realised I had to be viewed as something quite different from that.”

Make An Effort Mark’s case is a clear example that to give yourself the best chance of success, you have to make an effort.

Even as a bushcraft school, we at Frontier Bushcraft have to make an effort to get access to land. We have to present ourselves well and make our case (which usually involves the offer of payment). As an individual you need to be prepared to do the same. Even then it’s not always successful (even with the best references). For some landowners, it just does not fit or is too much hassle for too little return. Mark, regularly receives enquiries about using the woods he leases (and is prohibited from sub-leasing by the terms of his agreement). He sums it up perfectly - "Every enquiry is vague and unpersuasive...with no detail or an inkling that the sender has any idea of what might lead me [or a landowner] to think I could possibly trust them. I think the logic follows that the best bushcrafters are probably people who think through their actions and are naturally thorough and well-prepared. In turn, a badly worded, non-descript, three-line email is never going to convey the right message."

“I wrote to over ten different parties and heard back from one after six weeks. The land agent in question was ex military and understood what I required. He was very much a Ray Mears fan and empathised with me. He was also responsible for one of the largest estates in the area. After a few phone calls and emails we decided upon a site.”

There is lots of scope for practicing various elements of bushcraft skills in the UK. There’s nothing to stop you going out today, walking some little used public footpaths, foraging for wild foods, honing your tree identification and working on your navigation skills along the way. Head to some open access land where you can roam freely or even camp. Look to Scotland for a more complete wild camping experience. Spend some time and effort romancing landowners and before you know it, you could have a little haven where you can practice your camping and woodcraft skills in more depth.

On meeting the agent and looking at the site, Mark went a step further to demonstrate his responsible approach.

Then, of course, there are many overseas options. But they’ll have to wait for the next article…

“I used a fire flash on to birch bark to start the fire. I prepped




•

33

BUSHCRAFT ON A BUDGET

BUDGET ARROWS The end result teaspoons. You do need a teaspoon, but a cheap stainless steel one will work fine - don’t use your best silver (unless you are planning on killing a werewolf). Take the teaspoon and place it on a hard flat surface suitable for hammering on, I used a hammer head as an anvil and another hammer to flatten it out with. It’s as simple as that really, just hammer flat the bowl part of the teaspoon. Once flattened down you can draw on a rough shape for your pile.

AUTHOR PROFILE:

Ian Nairn 'Make do and Mend' is Ian's Philosophy. He is a dab hand at all things creative, and would be a match for any skilled seamstress! His innovative ideas can save you pounds, showing you how to make kit from things that you might find lying around. He also has a long-standing interest in and extensive knowledge of woodcraft and green woodworking, which, combined with his other skills, makes for some great money-saving tips!

Hello, welcome to another Bushcraft on a Budget article. In this issue I wish to show you my take on homemade arrows for bow hunting. Of course bow hunting live game is unfortunately illegal in the UK, but making your own equipment for target hunting is perfectly fine. Also if the Zombie apocalypse happens you will have the weapons to take 'em out ;-)

I

mentioned previously that I received a fantastic handmade longbow in trade from Chris Brain at The Bushcraft Show last year. It came with three arrows that Chris had made and I used these as a guide to making my own. Basic materials you need are a length of 3/8 dowel, goose feathers, a tea spoon, dental floss and glue. The first part of the arrow I made was “the business end”, the arrowhead or “pile”. I would like to thank Adam Logan of Woodland Ways here, as I saw him making arrowheads using the following method. Now before we start this I don’t want your nearest and dearest shouting at me because you have stolen all their

OK, so onto the arrow shaft itself. For this I had some 3/8 hardwood dowel in the garage that fit the task perfectly. You can of course make your own shafts from wood such as Hazel. Joe O’Leary has a hazel arrow that is finished so well I was convinced it was doweling. Even with my doweling the finish was not what I wanted, so I used some sandpaper just to give it a quick rub down and smooth off

Teaspoon

Shaped & sharpened

Length of dowel

Flattened teaspoon


Then using a belt sander I shaped and sharpened the edges of the pile, giving it a final touch up on a diamond sharpening block. I don’t know if they are supposed to be shaving sharp but this one is! I left the head attached to the handle of the spoon for ease of handling through these stages. Once you’re happy with it, you can cut off the handle, but leave about 10mm-15mm attached as this will go into your arrow shaft.


any rough edges or splinters. A quick work over had it the way I wanted. The length of your arrow shaft will depend on your bow, your size and draw length. To work out the approximate arrow length for you follow these steps: Take a tape measure and hold the body of it in your bow hand. Pull the tape measure out using the hand you would draw back the arrow with, until the end of the tape is touching your lip. Ensure your stance is correct, bow arm straight, draw arm elbow in line with your bow arm etc. Take the measurement at the tape body and then add 2”. This is your approximate arrow length. It is better to have a longer arrow than one that's too short for you. As I said before, I had some of Chris’s arrows that suit me just fine so I went off the length of those and cut a length of 29” (this was just the shaft length not including the pile). However I did include the length of the “nock” (the bit at the opposite end to the pile that fits onto the bow string when firing). You can buy nocks to fit to your own arrows; you could even make these, traditionally from bone or horn. However I chose not to use a separate nock and just to cut a nock into the end of the arrow shaft. Incidentally I have since measured my arrow length using the above method and it is exactly 29”. I sanded the nock end into a more tapered finish and then using a tile saw (this has a round abrasive blade) I cut the nock slot in the end, again smoothing it off with sandpaper afterwards. I checked it fit well on my bowstring, adjusted it slightly and then smoothed it all off again. You want it to grip the bowstring but not that tightly that it won’t release correctly when fired. Happy with that I moved on to fitting the pile. To do this I cut a slot into the end of the shaft

Length of dowel

Nock

using a flat hacksaw blade, keeping the cut as straight and level as possible by hand. When I had reached the depth I wanted to house my pile, I used the sandpaper again to taper down the tip to a pencil type point. I had to open up the cut slightly to accommodate the teaspoon shaft, I did this with the sandpaper again until the fit was good and tight. Once in place I saw an error in my design. As I had made the head teardrop shaped and not traditional arrow shaped, I could not bind up the head of the arrow, just the stem. But no worries, I decided to persevere and see how it turned out. To bind the head in place I use… yep, dental floss. It is great stuff for sewing and binding with, it is very strong and I believe it is the same stuff artificial sinew is made from; traditionally you would use animal sinew or rawhide to do this. So I simply bound around the arrow shaft up towards the head pulling very tight as I went.

Dental floss

Head end & head

Head bound in place

This held the head in place really well. But I was left with a gap between the very tip of the shaft and the arrowhead. To overcome this I put contact adhesive in the gap and clamped it shut until set. Again traditionally you would use natural glue like pine resin mixed with charcoal dust. I have seen people mixing charcoal dust with epoxy resin to make a modern but traditional looking bond. I may try this for my next ones. So once the head was set in place I moved on to fletching - making and attaching the flights or fletches. I had

BUSHCRAFT BUSHCRAFT&&SURVIVAL SURVIVALSKILLS SKILLSMAGAZINE 35 MAGAZINE 35 • •

BUSHCRAFT ON A BUDGET

goose feathers in the garage which I am told are amongst the best type of feathers to use, so that was a result. I chose three wing feathers that were all from the same wing, this makes for better flight. I measured the flights on Chris’s arrows and cut mine out similarly. Split the feather down its stem and taking the one half to use, lie it flat on a suitable surface and cut to shape using a very sharp knife. You can do additional trimming with scissors after if needed. I left a small amount of the feather stem sticking out at either end to help with binding them in place later. When I had the three flights cut to the required size and shape, I cut the back edge of one of them square rather than pointed. This would be the “cock” feather. If you look at modern arrows you will more often see that one flight is a different colour than the other two. This is the “cock” feather. This usually goes to the outside of the bow and string when firing and as such is at 90 degree to the slot in the nock. So the first flight I fitted was my cock feather. I aligned the nock slot to the horizontal position so I could fit the cock feather in the vertical. I put a small amount of contact adhesive on the feather and arrow shaft. Then after letting them go off slightly I brought them together and made sure the flight was fitted as straight as possible (tricky as the feathers have a natural curve to them). Once happy with the first fit I moved on to fit the remaining 2 flights at the 20 past and 20 to positions in relation to the cock flight. When these were in place I again took my dental floss, but this time I split the floss into 3 strands as I wanted a thinner strand to bind the fletches on

Goose wing feathers

Did I test mine? Of course I did! I first fired it in my back garden, it flew straight and true and buried itself well into the fence panel at the end. The tip was undamaged and still silly sharp. A longer range test was needed so I went off to a friend's field for a good distance test. WOW! I was really impressed with its flight. Really smooth and straight, no wobble or anything to indicate this was homemade. Although slightly long winded and intricate at times it is quite simple to make your own arrows and I definitely will be doing more. You can buy kits to make your own from various outlets, but I think it’s more rewarding to make your own. I am going to harvest some hazel and have a go with that, also look at using flint heads or making some with antler or bone too. But teaspoon heads are so easy to make, just don’t go stealing all the ones out of the kitchen drawers...

Feather cut & shaped

Oh yes, if your surname is Fletcher, Bowman or Archer your ancestors have my respect. There’s a massive amount of history involved in archery and bow and arrow making. It’s worth a bit of research if you want to learn more. Look up “keep it under your hat”, “another string to your bow”, or other archery related phrases. Do you know why sticking two fingers up was originally a gesture of defiance?

Fletchings glued on

Until next time, keep it on a budget and I hope to see you at The Bushcraft Show at the end of May, maybe over at the archery range testing out all your homemade arrows with Chris.

Binding round the fletching

Finished arrow next to Chris Brain's


with. Starting at the front edge of the flights I bound around the arrow shaft and up into the flights. Take care when doing this as you have to separate the interlocking veins of the feathers, work the floss down to the stem and tightly bind around to the next flight. Continue this until you have worked your way all around and up to the nock end of the flights. Bind around the back end a few times and then lock off the binding with a suitable knot. You may need to apply a small amount of glue to the end to stop it undoing. Tidy up the veins of your feathers if required and there you go, your own homemade arrow.

Top Tip. When in charity shops keep your eyes open for old cutlery, I bet you can get a bunch of teaspoons for £1 or less. Also when in Pound shops take a look on their toiletry aisle for packs of dental floss as this is a great way to get this wonderful stuff for all your sewing and making projects.



•

37

The Big 50

50 THINGS EVERYONE KNEW 50 YEARS AGO AUTHOR PROFILE: In celebration of Bushcraft & Survival Skills magazine's 50th anniversary edition we are breaking with the tradition of our usual "how to" article in order to take a more holistic approach to our subject.

S

o I wanted to review 50 fundamental skills that might have been lost in the last 50 years and look at what they could mean to you. Without the UK's instructors retaining and then passing these skills on, and without books and magazines such as this, our countryside would be a poorer place, with maybe only a select few individuals holding onto such skills. But with you, the readers' help, we are able to preserve these skills. We can educate and entertain many more people with what our natural world has to offer. We can gain warmth, comfort, food, sustainable resources and the space and freedom to be ourselves. So we are celebrating skills, and some of the people behind those skills. I hope you may use this list to inspire yourself and those around you. Get involved and create your own "bucket list" of skills to learn. I finish with the last set of five on a more personal reflective note as to how my bushcraft teachings and time in remote places have developed skills that are important to me.

1. Wilderness First Aid Learning how to look after yourself in a wilderness setting should include how to prevent accidents and medical emergencies from happening in the first place. This is where your ‘How-to’ articles come in. But despite all of your best efforts, the more you are out and about, the higher the chance that at some point you will come across a real first aid situation, potentially life and death. For me personally, I have managed Haemorrhaging in the African Bush, Scorpion stings in the Sahara, Hypothermia in the Mountains, and 1st Degree Burns on campfires ... how do you deal with it? Get yourself on a wilderness first aid course. Even 10 miles away from A&E should be classed as wilderness if the emergency services cannot reach you easily... calculate what your risks are, how likely they are to happen, and then get trained to deal with them!


Jason Ingamells Jason Ingamells needs little introduction, renowned as one of the UK's leading authorities on bushcraft skills and owner of Woodland Ways. He takes pride in teaching to the highest standards on courses at home, abroad and mentoring his staff. Jason writes on the subject in books and magazines and is a highly skilled woodsman and overseas adventurer. His skills have been gleaned through extensive personal applied experience, practicing and developing these skills in real circumstances.

2. Constructing the right shelter for the right environment There are a huge variety of shelters available to you for different environments. So if you're just used to building the A frame, why not get out and experiment with some alternative designs. Long term shelter is not just about keeping the elements out, it's your place of refuge and re-charge. Design it so you can cook, clean, eat and sleep inside.

3. Light a fire with the Bow Drill It has to be the quintessential skill of bushcraft that most people want to learn. Once you get the stance, with the right materials, it is as easy as you decide to make it. Learn how to read your powder. There are a few excellent instructors out there who really do understand the bow drill, get out to Dale Collett or Dave Watson to hone your skills. (It's been said I know a bit about it too)!

4. Using a Flint and Steel The first friction match was introduced in 1827. Prior to this we had been creating sparks with a variety of different methods, the most common being the Flint and Steel. The trick with creating the spark here is to ensure you have a good quality steel striker and a good sharp edge to your flint. A swift downward glancing blow of the steel against the flint should shave off tiny shards of iron from your steel, these pieces of iron combust and glow as


they come into contact with air and warm up. For fire with sparks you cannot go very far wrong by spending some time with Mark Hordon.

grains in some of the harder woods, but your wrists may thank you for choosing sycamore.

5. Light a fire in any conditions

Increase your knife skills further. Look for dry, knot free, seasoned material. Split into quarters or eighths, and shave down. Try and produce curls that run the length of the timber and create a small neck. Paul Kirtley has written an excellent guide on the subject.

In a wilderness environment having the ability to get a fire going can be the difference between life and death. The old adage the more you need a fire, the harder it is to get going is often so true. Just remember, nature is neutral, it's you that are in control of your circumstances right the way back to the planning stage. Always carry emergency fire lighting equipment with you, and know how to use it!

6. Experiment with char material

11. Develop your Feather sticks

12. Learn to use your axe Possibly the most dangerous of tools that we use in the woodlands, in the wrong hands this can be lethal. Get some proper training, not from a book, and learn how to look after it. Used correctly there is no more satisfying tool.

13. Making water safe to drink

You learn so much over a campfire Char material as a tinder is easier to catch on even a low An essential skill for wilderness grade spark. If you've made char travel, if you drink dirty water in a cloth before maybe it's time to wilderness environment you can die, start experimenting with other it is as simple as that. Know what material. Try char cat-tail (wet, compress and dry first), or willow you need to take out- particles, parasites, bacteria, viruses and punk... there's a huge variety of natural chars available to you. chemicals. Know how to get them out.

7. Building and understanding fire Building a fire is as much a skill as creating the initial heat source. It's staggering that in such a short space of time the vast population of our country have forgotten how to get that fire working efficiently. But dig deeper, what is happening with that flame? The environment a fire creates is magical, when was the last time you sat around the radiator with friends or family and chatted?

8. Knives and the law If you do two things from this list (the first being Wilderness First Aid!), learn the law. As an outdoors person you have a right to carry your tools where appropriate, but with that right comes responsibilities. Get it wrong, and there are very serious consequences.

14. Calculate where you are on the planet using the sun and stars With a simple solar compass, the angle of the north star, and an equation of time table it's amazing how you can calculate your longitude and latitude to an incredible accuracy. You'll want the full horizon though.

15. Map and Compass Navigation The cornerstone of any wilderness travel, travel without appropriate navigation equipment should just not be attempted. Learn how to find yourself again and how to follow a bearing.

9. Learn to use and sharpen your knife If you've only just subscribed to the magazine, get some back issues... the infuriatingly talented Ben Orford has written some exceptional articles on sharpening a knife! Ben knows his subject of knives inside out and has taught me a thing or two. Get yourself a Mora knife, full flat scandi grind and practice. If you're proficient with this then move on to some other blade shapes to perfect your technique.

10. Carve a spoon Hone those knife skills to produce something that will give you pride for years to come. Even better, spend the hours whittling away then give it to someone. Choose your material wisely, there are some wonderful


•

39

The Big 50

16. Finding North without a Compass Learning the path of celestial objects opens up a whole new world of understanding your sense of direction. But also pay attention to what is on the ground- shapes, shadows and sounds. Natural Navigation forms part of many an introductory weekend course but if you are self teaching I would suggest you spend a little time with the publications of Tristan Gooley. He has explored many different environments on the planet using natural navigation techniques.

17. Consistently provide food for yourself This is one of the more demanding sides of the skills we teach. Acquiring food, in particular meat, brings together all of your field craft, tracking, prey awareness and practical skills to the foreground. It is hard, physically and emotionally.

18. How to prepare a mammal Old man "Alfie" taught Martyn Tudhope everything he knows about game preparation and the acquisition of meat, he now passes these skills on to thousands. Historically we felt a desire to teach young people where our food came from, however there is an increasing void between society as a whole and their food. Most mammal preparation is very similar, it's just a matter of scale.

instructors weren't out there teaching... However it's worth training in some of the less common fishing methods available to the survivalist. Fraser Christian of Coastal Survival is definitely worth seeking out.

24. Make a snare Ensure you stay within the law but making a snare is the easy bit. Quite simply take a length of appropriate metal, bend it round a small stick until it crosses over itself and then twist the stick round and round. This will form an eyelet for you to then slip the other end of the wire through, you have your snare. Form another eyelet on the other side to attach your cord to.

25. Flint knapping Over the last nearly 40 years there has been a strong surge in interest in prehistoric tool making, after the skills had been almost totally lost in the UK. This resurgence was led by the legend John Lord, who I have had the privilege of being instructed by. More people have become interested in the subject and the number of people with the skill is slowly growing. Karl Lee is now one of the UK's leading practical experts on flint knapping.

19. How to prepare a fish Strangely a UK country butcher was recently asked to take down a display of dead animals in his shop window as it caused offence (even from meat eaters) and yet we walk into supermarkets each and every day and have no complaint over the fish counter! Next time why not ask them to show you how they fillet it, and then when you buy again give it a try yourself.

20. Prepare a bird without a knife If you've been to The Bushcraft Show you will have seen Martyn Tudhope as he deftly prises the meat from the bird using just his hands. A great survival skill for when you have no knife.

Mak e a bow

21. Tan a hide A very smelly and messy process this maybe not the one to start the youngsters off on their bushcraft journey however skins are around us every single day of the week in our modern world, we just do not see the process. Many instructors in the UK offer an insight into this ancient skill, James Watson being well known for his tanning.

26. Make a bow As with the flint knapping the skill of making a fully functioning powerful bow is not one to be looked at lightly. It is within us all to read the wood, but learning with an exceptional instructor will prevent much heart break and stave break. It also doesn't have to be all yew! You can make good strong bows out of many different woods, maybe break the mould and try something new.

27. Make a variety of cordage If you're new to making string then start off with something common such as stinging nettle, or the longer fibres of the bramble. Once you've mastered the two ply roll you can then move on to different weaves, using a wider variety of materials. Try using the inner bark of willow.

22. Using animal tendons Making use of as much of the animal as possible demonstrates your respect to the animal that has given its life so that you may sustain yours. Sinew makes an incredibly strong binding.

Allo w yoursel f to learn

23. Fishing

28. Look after your cord Whether it's climbing rope, natural cordage or paracord, learning how to coil and store your cord means that it stays stronger for longer. There are some excellent tutorials online, including www.animatedknots.com

A huge pastime in the UK, this would easily have survived even if



29. Knots You may know 100 different knots, but I bet there will be just a select handful that you will return to over and over. Try and learn as your minimum the clove hitch, a couple of tensioning knots for tarps, the timber hitch, the figure eight, bowline and prusik knot.

30. Tree identification Pay attention to the general shape or form of the tree, look at the leaf structure and growth pattern, also the detail of the bark. If you are starting out try and learn a few at a time, starting with whatever is local to you. Interesting trees are easier to remember so consider if it has a use, so sycamore is tasteless, odourless and mildly antibacterial - great for spoons. Ash is strong and flexible and has a lower moisture content, while the uses of the silver birch are numerous!

Maasai amazing adventures

35. Know your deer I have studied these creatures most of my life and I chose the red deer as our company logo. Spending time watching both wild and farmed deer can give you an incredible insight into their complex lives. Beautiful, graceful, gentle. Ugly, disproportioned, aggressive. Amazing creatures.

36. Move silently With the modern world everything comes at speed - cars, deliveries, electricity, emails etc. It's time to slip back into slow. Learning to move silently in order to view our natural world is one of the skills that is highlighted frequently to me as the favourite of our courses.

37. Dog or Fox print? Can you tell the difference. There are so many different breeds of dog out there now that it can be really hard to be definitive. Learning more about the animals helps you to rely on more than just a print alone. What is its likely behaviour? Pablo has written extensively and has an exceptionally good reputation for his wildlife tracking courses.

Learn about y our beautif ul planet

31. Plant knowledge As with trees, being able to identify what's around you and know its uses, gives you a much deeper connection to your environment. Stay safe, and stay within the law. Inspirations for foraging include not just our own Kevan Palmer, but also Fergus Drennan.

32. Get weaving a basket Another skill that widens your appreciation of natural materials. Don't just stop at willow though... there are a whole host of materials that can be used to incorporate into your baskets. If you can bend it over your wrist it's worth having an experiment with.

33. Using fish traps One of the least labour intensive methods of acquiring food. Similar to producing a basket but with much less material. What better than being able to produce something that can also feed you. You need look no further than Patrick McGlinchey's inspirational work, alongside his realistic approach to the subject.

38. Make a candle in the woods If you are lucky enough to have fallen silver birch that you can harvest, you can make a woodsman's candle by folding the bark concertina into a split green stick, nice and simple. Or if you have pine then you can collect the resin and cram it inside a cross split stick, as much as you can and interspersed with twigs.

39. Glorious Nettles I could do easily another 100 lines on just different uses for the nettle! Indeed there's a book out there, 101 uses for Stinging Nettles by Piers Warren - try nettle puree.

40. Make glues and pitches From simple pine resin alone, or mixed with a bit of bees wax, through to more complex extraction of Birch Tar or Hide Glue. The processes of making glue would most certainly have been lost to modern life if it wasn't for bushcraft enthusiasts keeping these skills alive.

41. Preparing yourself mentally and physically Often overlooked, it's about having the right type of fitness and the positive mental attitude. Living and working outside is tough on you, but it is what we are born for.

34. Learn to track Another skill that was certainly heading to a rapid demise in the civilian world was that of tracking. Maybe you are old enough to remember the father of our good friend and tracking expert Perry McGee; Eddie McGee. His involvement helped to track down the murderer Barry Prudom, and of course more recently Ray Mear's involvement in the hunt for Raoul Moat, demonstrates how important it is to keep these skills alive.

42. Tapping a tree As I write this the silver birch sap is flowing very readily and there is a plethora of information out there on every bushcraft blog site about this annual event. It is worth noting that cutting through the living cells of the tree DOES expose the tree to harm. What we are looking for is damage limitation. John Ryder has pioneered some of his own very interesting research into this subject which is freely available.


•

41

The Big 50

ok to be inspired ourselves. Some of the industry professionals I have mentioned here have inspired me, allow yourself to learn.

The outdoors is for everyone

48. Mix old and new school I love sitting around the camp fire sharing skills, but I also use social media to spread skills to others I would not otherwise reach. The information age we are in is not going away so embrace it. However I let my wilderness knowledge lead my social media... not the other way around!

49. Respect for each other

43. Alternative cooking methods Try and ditch the cooking pots for a weekend and go old school. Wrap meat and fish in non toxic leaves, cook in embers, bake bread on hot rocks or cook underground.

44. Drill a hole without electricity The pump drill can be used to drill holes. From timber joints on structures to jewellery, the technique can be a little difficult to begin with, but as with all these skills spend some time with it.

45. How to walk your way through the night sky You don't have to be in the middle of the Sahara to appreciate the night sky. Get yourself somewhere rural, sit back and map it out. Ben McNutt has an impressive knowledge of the night sky and the histories surrounding some of the constellations. When starting out try and map out the night sky yourself into grids. Start with a constellation you know and build up your knowledge in blocks. The last five of my chosen 50 skills are more of a personal reflection on what bushcraft has offered me. Our modern world changes at such a rapid pace it is easy to see why most people forget about living life... we get wrapped up in speed, now, fast, build, work, coffee... so take a step back.

By getting face to face with people in the outdoors you learn so much about yourself and others, in real circumstances. This is a skill in itself. In the digital age it is now so easy to express an opinion to be heard by the masses, but recognition of the difference between opinion and fact is often blurred. Nothing can replace the honest face to face communication and respect you can build with each other over the camp fire.

50. Treat a lady well The outdoors is a great leveller, with everyone needing to pull their weight. But gentlemen, there's still room for a bit of chivalry... carry the fire wood, share the splitting of the logs, let her prepare a warming fire as most indigenous cultures do and cook her a tasty meal in a Dutch oven.

Couples work ing together in the outdoors

46. Self reliance Learning some of the skills above improves your self reliance. You will find yourself saying "Right, I'm going to do this about it" rather than "someone should do something about that" and that is a most positive self perpetuating circle to be in.

47. Inspire both young and old

Inspire all ages

It's not all about the young children... we're all children. I am about to become a father for the first time, I am very excited. I want to inspire her, but as adults it is


A tasty meal in a dutch oven


Join the UK’s largest provider of intermediate to advanced Bushcraft Courses Woodland Ways is the largest provid er of Bushcraf t & Survival Courses in the UK, with industry leading instructors, including Jason Ingamells, Kevan Palmer, Adam Logan and more you know that your course will be of the highest quality. Courses operate in our many centres throughout the UK, we also operate completely unique overseas expeditions. We have a vast range of cou rses too nume rous to mention, including our exclusive 2 year course, The Woodland Wayer. In 2012 Woodland Ways also opene d the UK’s first World of Bushcraft experience store, based in Bedford. A completely unique centre to come and learn, research and buy Bushcraft!

• Day Courses • Weekend Courses • Week Long Courses • Overnight Courses • Team Buil ding • Family/Young Adult Courses • 4x4 Voyager Courses • The Woodland Wayer 2 year course • Overseas Expeditions

CALL NOW ON 01234 351006 [email protected] • www.woodland-ways.co.uk

SNAKE BITES

MANAGING SNAKE BITES IN A SURVIVAL SITUATION

The Puff adder is responsible for more bites than any other snake species.

AUTHOR PROFILE:

Paul Donovan Paul Donovan is a biologist with over 30 years’ experience working with snakes in captivity and in the wild. He currently lives in Botswana where he runs a snakebite education programme for schools, hospitals and government departments.

Snake bites have always been a major problem while travelling in countries with large endemic snake populations and they will always be. In remote areas where it is not possible to evacuate a snake bite victim to hospital, proper management of the bite becomes all the more important.

F

ortunately, of the 2500 -/+ snake species, only 250 or so have the capacity to actually kill a human. Obviously it’s handy to know which these 250 are, but unless you know your snakes, for the layperson determining which ones are and which ones are not venomous is all but impossible; there exists no universal formula for identification. So in this article, I will help you determine whether the snake that has bitten you A bite from a cobra is is venomous or less painful than one harmless and how from a viper. to manage a snake bite; what to do and not do. At the outset, preventing a bite in the field is far better than having to treat one and a few simple precautions mixed with a bit of common sense can go a long way. 1) If you spot a snake, don’t antagonise it. Snakes are shy animals

and will avoid humans if at all possible. They will have picked up the ground vibrations of your footsteps, and moved off a long time

44

•


The author administering first aid for a Puff adder bite.

before you even knew they were there. The dangerous ones are the ambushers who lie in wait, relying on camouflage to conceal themselves and simply stand their ground. In Africa the Puff adder is responsible for around 80% of all snake bites, and for this reason is considered the most ‘dangerous’ snake, simply because they just don’t move and are easily trodden on; it’s up to you to get out of their way, rather than assume they will get out of yours. 2) Avoid stepping over logs or rocks when you cannot see where

to place your foot the other side; there could be a snake sheltering there. Also, never step on large tufts of grass, as this could be a resting place for a snake. They often say “if you are in a group it is the second or third person who is most liable to get bitten, because the first alerts the snake and the second or third feels the wrath of its annoyance”.


3)3) When picking up fire wood

or rocks, always ensure that its underside faces away from you as you lift it up. That way, if there does happen to be a snake beneath it, its escape or strike will always be away from you and not towards you. Before picking up wood or rocks it is a good idea to kick it first, or lift it up with another piece of wood to scare off anything which may be lurking underneath.

Be careful when picking up stones or stepping over them. A snake may be hiding beneath it.

Did it actually inject any venom?

Snakes primarily use their venom to kill prey and secondly as a defence, so they do not wantonly waste it. They also have control over the amount of venom they inject into their prey/victim and can typically instigate what we call a ‘dry bite’ where no venom at all is injected. This may account for why so many ‘natural remedies’ are apparently effective in curing snake bites; the snake either did not inject any venom in the first place, or it was simply a harmless species.

4) Wear sensible shoes around

camp and in the bush; avoid walking around barefoot.

with knitting needles. A nonvenomous snake will leave two crescent-shaped marks with numerous ‘pin-pricks’.

A boomslang.

5) A number of bites

happen during the evening, especially around campfires where snakes are attracted to its warmth.

Signs and symptoms 6) Avoid stepping out

Before beginning any form of treatment, sit the victim down and wait to see what symptoms, if any, develop. This happened to me some time back when I was bitten by a Puff adder, I freaked everyone out because I was so calm while they ran around like flies looking for their next meal. I knew precisely what to do. If after15 - 20 minutes or so no symptoms of any sort have developed, you can be pretty sure it was either a dry bite or a harmless snake. That being said, if you were bitten by a Boomslang Dispholidus typus, then this is a different story as symptoms from this snake can take 24 hours to manifest, with death taking up to five days to come about.

at night in bare feet to answer the call of nature and make sure if you have to squat down, you are not going to do anything on a snake that would take great exception to it. 7) 7) Keep the camp

tidy. Rubbish will attract rodents, and in turn snakes who prey on them. If you spot a snake, do not indiscriminately kill it and then attempt to pick it up. A dead venomous snake is still capable of inflicting a fatal bite through nerve reflexes.

Get bitten by a Black mamba and get treatment... like yesterday.

Fortunately the Boomslang is an exception and typically symptoms from most venomous snakes, irrespective of where you are in the world, are universally the same. With neurotoxic snakes (Cobras, Mambas, Kraits etc.) the bite itself is not painful but a gradual tingling sensation progressing upwards from the bite wound and steady paralysis will develop. This leads to difficulty in swallowing, slurred speech, giddiness, drooping eyelids. Death is due to paralysis of the diaphragm.

Never trust a bite from a Boomslang, its venom is slow acting.

8) When confronted by a snake - freeze.

Snakes respond to movement, so if you remain still they do not perceive you as being a threat. It is only when you move that they respond by biting. Even if the snake approaches you and crawls towards your legs, it will carry on its way providing you don’t move. It’s of no harm to you. Was it venomous or not?

So despite all this, the unfortunate has happened and you have been bitten. What should you do? The first thing is do NOT panic. Only a small number of bites from snakes are actually from venomous species, so it is important to determine whether it was venomous or not. This can be done by looking at the imprint left by the teeth. A bite from a venomous snake will leave two quite distinct puncture marks; as though someone had stabbed you

Viper bites (Puff adders, Rattlesnakes, etc.) are extremely painful. The bite marks will bleed profusely accompanied by swelling that spreads rapidly up the bitten limb. Bleeding in other regions of the body such as the gums and nostrils is not uncommon, followed by nausea and vomiting. The bitten limb will also take on a bruised


•

45

SNAKE BITES

appearance with signs of blistering. An elevated heart rate may be detected which, if the victim is in poor health, or frail, may lead to a heart attack. Blood will also be present in the urine. First aid treatment of snake bites The greater number of snake bites occur to the lower leg, particularly the calf, ankle and foot, with the second most vulnerable area being the hands and arms. Should symptoms develop, appropriate ‘first aid’ treatment is extremely effective in managing a bite and could even mean the difference between a victim dying or surviving, providing a number of simple procedures are followed. However, it is important first to dispel a few common myths about what you should NOT do, before going on to cover what you should.

There is no universal way of telling whether a snake is venomous or harmless. This Common egg eating snake is a harmless species, but mimics the venomous Rhombic night adder.

There are two Puff adders hidden in the grass. This is why they are easily trodden on.

Do NOT cut and suck the bite

This has no effect on breaking down the venom, and may actually make the bitten area worse. Should I wash the area? The statement DO NOT wash venom from the bite only applies to Australia and possibly America and only then if you are bitten in your garden, this is so that the medical team can swab the venom to identify it. In a remote region you should wash the area as leaving venom on the skin only exacerbates the venom's effects. In a hospital the medical staff would determine what type of snake had been involved through the symptoms the victim was showing and a blood test.

This time honoured procedure was popularised in Wild West films, but it is an extremely dangerous practice to employ as you run the risk of inducing secondary infection. It is also doubtful whether cutting the flesh would actually be effective anyway. The venom from a viper bite for example would have been ‘pumped’ deep into the muscle and although you are inducing bleeding, you would have to make a deep cut to bring it to the surface where sucking would be beneficial. Assuming that this procedure was effective, if someone else was doing the sucking they could expose themselves to the risk of envenomation, because if any surface venom were to enter an open cut in the mouth they themselves would become a bite victim. And don’t forget about infectious blood diseases you would expose yourself too. Lastly, I could think of nothing worse than having been bitten by a snake, only to watch your buddy hacking away at your leg with a knife – and what could be a dirty one at that.

The most effective first aid treatment is the application of a pressure bandage; although some current research does question its effectiveness. A pressure bandage is not a tourniquet, as you are not trying to stop the flow of blood, but instead compress the lymph system so as to lessen the spread of venom through the body. This system is effective for elapid bites (Cobras, Mambas, Kraits etc.) but should not be used for viper bites (Puff adders, Rattlesnakes etc.) or Mozambique spitting cobra bites, as a sideeffect of their venom is swelling, and to place a constrictive bandage on a swelling limb will only result in even more serious tissue damage occurring.

Do NOT use a tourniquet

Applying the pressure/Immobilisation bandage

Under normal circumstances, you should not use a tourniquet in the treatment of a snake bite. A tourniquet is tied tightly around the bitten limb to prevent the spread of venom around the body. At the outset it would seem a very effective form of first aid, the drawback is that if venom is prevented from passing the tourniquet, then the same will apply to blood flow coming from the other way. Cutting off the blood flow will starve the limb of oxygen thus killing it. There is also the risk of toxic shock syndrome, whereby as the limb begins to breakdown, it produces toxins which are released into the body as soon as the tourniquet is loosened. I will come back to tourniquets in a moment.

In an ideal world we would carry bandages with us. The world is not ideal though, so we can improvise these by using strips of clothing.

Do NOT use potassium I have heard if you tip potassium permanganate on the bite and then light it, it will neutralise the venom. How painful would that be? Especially when you realise that the only effect it would have would be to cause you serious burns! Do NOT place ice on the bite

46

•


What you can do… Use a pressure bandage.

Reassure the victim and keep him/her as still and calm as possible. Reassure them that the risk of dying from a snake bite is small. Wash any residual venom from the bite area. Apply a bandage to the site of the bite and wind it upwards towards the armpit or groin (or as high as possible). The pressure should be similar to that of strapping a sprained ankle. To check that it is not too tight, test for an arterial pulse above and below the bandage. Keep the limb as immobile as possible at all times and bandage an arm in a bent position so as to allow a splint to be applied to the forearm which can then be placed in a sling. Forget about trying to remove clothing, bandage over these, time is of the essence. Help with Breathing Where difficulty in breathing occurs, administer artificial respiration. Don’t forget, the venom from elapid snakes (Mambas and Cobras) causes paralysis and more often than not continual artificial


respiration is all that may be required to keep the victim alive. Even in hospital a victim may simply be placed on a respirator, as their bodies own defence system will begin to breakdown the venom without the need for antivenin. OK, if you are in the bush, administering artificial respiration may take a long time, but if there are a few of you around, it is a simple matter of rotating people.

and difficult to open, providing that the venom has been flushed out, they will return to normal within 24 hours. Using antivenin

Vipers, such as this Eastern Diamondback Rattlesnake can inject venom deep into the muscle.

Unfortunately, with a viper bite, as the venom works by breaking down tissue, in a remote region there is little you can do other than to manage the bite and buy the victim a bit more time. Where hospitalisation is many days away, this is one situation where I would think about implementing the use of a tourniquet. However, it is important that it is not applied too tightly; this can be done by checking for a pulse. I have used this once in Pressure bandage - bandage the arm a survival situation where the in a bent position. victim was days away from hospital care and she survived with no ill-effects. It is a contentious procedure, though. Venom in the eyes from

spitting cobras such as this

You are not going Mozambique spiting cobra, to die from a snake can be treated with any cool bite in a couple of liquid. hours as most people envisage. You have, depending on where you were bitten, and how much venom was injected, at least a few days. Therefore, the correct use of a tourniquet in a ‘long term emergency’ situation, can buy you some good time.

Commercial snake bite kits are available over the counter from pharmacies in a number of countries where snake bites are widespread and although antivenin is the only effective treatment for a snake bite, administering it is extremely hazardous. Should the victim suffer a serious allergic reaction to it, they can easily go into anaphylactic shock. Allergic reactions are counteracted with the use of adrenaline or antihistamine and bolstering the circulatory system via intravenous fluids, so antivenins are best left to trained medical personnel. In an emergency situation of course, where hospitalisation is not an option, it is worth the risk of using the serum. However, only use it if you are 100% sure the person was bitten by a venomous snake and symptoms of the venom are beginning to manifest, as to give the serum to someone bitten by a harmless snake, if this brings on anaphylactic shock, you would effectively have killed them! Use of suction:

There are many many suction suction kits on the market which, when placed over the bitten area, create a vacuum to draw the venom out. Research has shown these kits to have little, or no effect in removing venom from the bitten area and they can actually cause damage to the tissue. That being said, in a survival situation many miles, or days away from a hospital, trying anything is better than nothing, and it may give ‘reassurance’ to the victim that you are at least trying to help them.

Treatment of venom in the eyes Finally Should the unfortunate happen and you receive venom in the eyes from a spitting cobra, they should immediately be flushed with any cool liquid to hand; water, milk, cola, beer, cold tea, even urine can be used. Avoid the temptation to rub the eyes as this can rub the venom into the eyeball where it will cause more serious problems such as ulceration. And should you break a capillary it could enter the blood system and manifest as though you had been bitten by the snake. The victim victim should should then then be placed placed in the the shade as his, or or her, eyes eyes will be extremely sensitive to sunlight and a cold compress be placed over them. Although the eyelids will become red, swollen

Did you know that shock is a contributing factor to snake bite deaths. Individuals bitten by non-venomous snakes have died as a consequence of shock on the assumption that they had been bitten by a venomous snake. So, keeping the victim calm can play an important role in their survival. First Aid should always be administered by a trained and competent individual with permission to work on the patient. Practices and available equipment are always changing so please ensure that your knowledge and equipment are up to date.


•

47

READERS ARTICLE

BOREALONABUDGET By Dave Delany

For many bushcrafters, Arctic adventures may seem out of their reach. With courses costing thousands of pounds not including flights, it can look like only the wealthy can ever hope to experience the Northern forests in winter. But this is not the case.

W

ith a fair bit of planning, a reasonable level of fitness, a good portion of training and some common sense, the Northern forests can be accessible to all for a fraction of the cost of organised courses and you might even learn more. Let me first say, the Boreal forest in winter although stunningly beautiful, is not to be taken lightly. The cold can be brutal and you need to be able to survive in relative comfort. In the high North little mistakes can become big problems very quickly. You need to be able to overcome the various challenges you encounter. encounter. This article is not a “definitive guide”, just a small insight into how to

48

•


get out there and do your own thing. Let's use the acronym POLAR:

P O L A R

Planning Organisation Learning Acquisition Recap

Planning Planning is crucial. We started planning our trip around ten months before the planned departure. Two of the four of us had never travelled in the Arctic so we started looking for places that were wild, but not too remote should we need to bug out for any reason. We chose a site in Kittila Finland. The forest was about 7km from both the airport and the town with good trails in the area. There was also mobile phone signal which was a bonus as we had a satphone as well. Another plus was that we could fly from Manchester and the fares were reasonable at around £280 per person with 62kg of luggage each.


Organisation Once the location was agreed it was time to organise things. Maps of the area were bought (never rely on GPS, the cold can kill them). Holidays were booked with work, passports and European Health Insurance Cards (EHIC)were checked for validity and training days were arranged, along with meetings to check kit etc. Learning The most most important important aspect aspect of of Arctic adven adventure ture in my opinion opinion is learning the skills needed. Even competent bushcrafters may have trouble tying a shoelace with mittens on, or trying to set a shelter up in a blizzard. Training is the key. Get some time out with someone who has been to the far north. Learn all they can teach and then search the internet for more. Sites like youtube are great for picking up tips, but don't just watch the videos, practice the skills until you become proficient. Buy a magazine subscription and use the knowledge you find to better your skill set. Finally you don't have to be in the Arctic to experience the cold. If you're in the UK get a few bad weather trips in Scotland under your belt and you'll be halfway there. Scotland can offer some of the most brutal cold weather challenges and you'll have the wet to contend with as well as the cold. On your first couple of trips it's well worth going with an experienced buddy or two. Keep an eye out on internet forums for training trips being planned and ask if there are places. People are often glad of an extra team member to share fuel costs and camaraderie.

Acquisition Possibly the most enjoyable bit for the kit junkies among us, getting all the bits together. together. Arctic exploration will never be a lightweight affair due to what you need to take with you to survive unsupported for a week or two. Clothing is bulky, tents are heavy and things like stoves, snowshoes, toboggans etc. can be unruly to pack. There is an old adage with with Arctic travellers “Travel light, freeze at night” so never scrimp on something that may keep keep you warm. Like anything, your gear can be whatever works for you, Some like the modern synthetic route, others like traditional wool and there are those who like a mix. I'm one of the latter. I like modern synthetics for my top garments but prefer merino base layers. When looking for gear ask people who have been to the North what worked for them, what they used a lot and what they didn't use at all. Look at some of the army surplus outlets for things like wool trousers, hats and gloves. Snowshoes can sometimes be had for a good price too. Some of your kit can be home made too. Mukluk liners are simple, as are billy cans. Our tent stoves were made from stainless steel dog bowls from the pound shop for example, and our tents were Polish Lavvu's with a canvas section sewn in the middle. These worked surprisingly well. Be imaginative and it's amazing what you can make or modify. Recap Finally, just before your trip, get everyone together and recap on everything. Double check kit, routes, travel docs, emergency plans and contact details. Check you have communications (satellite phone, SPOT locator). Then you're ready for your adventure.

Kittila 2014 Myself and the three other travellers met at my house as it was closest to the airport. Myself and Riam had been to the Arctic on several occasions, Dave and Matt were on their first trip and we decided this was a large enough group. In the airport spirits were high and we were soon on our way. After an eight hour

READERS ARTICLE

stop in Helsinki we arrived at Kittila and loaded our toboggans with the numerous bags and packs and got on our way to cheering and waving from a coach load of children just arriving at the airport. We trekked into Kittila town to pick up supplies to go with the meat we brought from the UK (meat is very expensive in Scandinavia) and then we were on our way. From looking at a combination combination of google earth and topographical maps we had previously identified an area of forest to the north of Kittila that looked promising and after two hours we found just what we were looking for. A lovely clearing in a forest of Birch and Spruce. Spruce. We got to work tamping down the snow and setting up camp. Dave made a great tripod for drying kit and wood and within a few hours the fire was lit, snow was melting and a brew was on the way. The first first night we simply simply crawled crawled into into our sleepi sleeping ng bags that we laid upon beds of spruce boughs topped off with foam mats and cold camped as we were tired from the flight and the trekking and night came early. The following day everyone was up with the song of the Siberian Tit who had decided our camp was was his. He was about the size of a golf ball with all his feathers puffed up, but he had a huge personality and was scared of nothing, so we called him “Thor”. Camp admin is the key in the Arctic. You find everyone settles into different jobs quite easily. Dave quickly became camp chef and turned out some excellent meals, Riam chopped firewood like a man possessed and Matty was the king of feather sticks, making tons for the fire. I was the snow melter, melter, odd job man and breakfast breakfast boy mostly. As the week progressed the camp became more efficient. Temperatures were unseasonably high this year with only a day or two getting lower than -5C meaning damp was a huge problem, but the lads coped admirably, adjusting their camp habits to suit. We built our dog bowl stoves and they worked like a charm, both drying out damp gear and giving us a pleasantly warm environment in which to change, or get into our sleeping bags. We left camp and went trekking for a couple of days, once to town to get gifts for our better halves and once up into the forest just for the giggle. The last couple of days were spent honing skills, building survival shelters and nearly building an igloo. We ran out of time on the igloo project, maybe next year. year. So in conclusion how much did this adventure cost? I'd say less than £1000 per person if you have no Arctic equipment whatsoever. If you have the gear then probably about £350 all in. If you have had zero training and lack ability then perhaps the £3000+ courses are the right way to go. They have things like snowmobiles, heated classrooms/shelters etc. and probably trained paramedics on site for your peace of mind. But if you want to experience the true wilderness using just your knowledge and sense of adventure, it's not beyond your grasp.... Have Fun “Mad Dave” Delany

50

•




•

51

2 0 1 4

‘W he re your h unge r f or adve nture grows’ series ‘Deadly 60’,

What’s NEW for The Bushcraft Show 2014…

When 24-26 May 2014 * *Weekend ticket holders can arrive 23 May from 2pm

Where Catton Hall, Walton upon Trent, Derbyshire, DE12 8LN Please follow the signs and not the SatNav as you get closer to the event.

What’s on… With only a few weeks until The Bushcraft Show 2014 we are excited to reveal more new and exciting people and activities for this years show. We are thrilled to welcome Natural history presenter Steve Backshall to The Bushcraft Show 2014. This is a real privilege, as he is one the busiest presenters on television, mainly working for the BBC’s Natural History Unit. He has had his own season of programmes on Eden television channel, alongside legends David Attenborough and Bruce Parry. Before that, he was ‘Adventurer in Residence’ at the National Geographic Channel. Steve now fronts the BBC kids'

ST EV E BAC KS HALL

travelling the world C ODY LUNDIN to learn about the most inspiring predators. Steve Backshall will be speaking on the main stage followed by a book signing. Please note Steve’s talk will be very popular! With the new location at the stunning and privately owned Catton Hall estate, which is ideally situated in the centre of England, in Derbyshire, we are expecting a record number of visitors, who will be attending the show from all over the country and even further afield.

OLOIP MAASAI

R AY GO OD W IN



The 250 acre Estate has been owned by the same family for over 600 years and is perfectly laid out for 'LOFT Y ' W ISEMAN The Bushcraft Show 2014, having a 10 hectare Showground and Campsite surrounded by a lovely deciduous woodland with exclusive access to an exquisite lake and the Rivers Trent and Mease.

Johan Sk ullman Per ry McGee

We can’t wait to see you all to enjoy a fun-filled weekend together doing what we love, whether you are new to bushcraft and want to find out what it is all about, or are an expert in this field there is something for everyone of all ages. We have bushcraft and survival experts attending the show from around the world and are delighted to welcome CODY LUNDIN, co-host of the television series Dual Survival and author of 98.6 Degrees and When All Hell Breaks Loose to The Bushcraft Show 2014. Also coming from the US is DAVID SCOTT-DONELAN who is regarded as one of the world’s most effective and capable tracking instructors, sharing knowledge and experience gained over nearly a 50-year period. Then from Sweden, we have the renowned JOHAN SKULLMAN and it has been said that very few people have the skills to match his outdoor knowledge. As an officer in the Swedish Armed Forces, he has spent over 30 years in nature’s most unpredictable environments and climates. He is the author of classic books such as, ”Soldat I fält” (Soldiers in the Field) and ”Vintersoldaten” (Winter Soldier) that are still used in the Swedish Armed Forces. Today he works at Fjällräven as an equipment expert and test manager. We are thrilled to welcome back the legend of British canoeing RAY GOODWIN to the show this year. Last Year Ray’s schedule only allowed him a flying visit to the show where he put on a special evening talk, sharing his personal accounts of inspirational canoe trips. This year he is with us for the whole weekend and you can even book a Specialist Instruction Open Canoeing Class with him.

The Bushcraft Show would not be the same without the SAS survival legend JOHN ‘LOFTY’ WISEMAN, author of The SAS Survival Handbook, who will be entertaining and educating visitors on stage, followed by a book signing. Tracking expert PERRY MCGEE, son of the late Eddie McGee, has an array of workshops running though out the weekend for all ages. Attend his grass rope making workshop and then with your grass rope, pull the show Land Rover!

Whittling Sessions, Raku Firing, Charcoal Drawing, Campfire Music, Firelighting, Woodland Crafts, Expedition Prep, Woodland Games, Competitions, Axe Throwing, Archery, Rifle Shooting, Leather Crafts, Open Canoeing, Knife Sharpening and Safe Use, Low Ropes Course, Birds of Prey, Face Painting, Tracking, Spoon Carving, Game Preperation, Basketry, Tracking, Spoon Carving, Pinch Pot Making, Forging and so much more…

53 BUSHCRAFT BUSHCRAFT&&SURVIVAL SURVIVALSKILLS SKILLSMAGAZINE MAGAZINE 53 • •

THE BUSHCRAFT SHOW 2014

If that’s not enough, listen to expert speakers from around the world giving talks on the main stage, see a host of trade stands, speak with specialist instructors and all in a wonderful setting, with likeminded folk.

Don’t miss out on The Bushcraft Show everyone is talking about.

r o f t c e f r e P y l i m a f e h t all

25% OFF* Ticket Price £95

Child (5-15 years inclusive)

£40

2 Adult & 2 Children Family

£240

1 Adult & 2 Children Family

£145

NELAN

Weekend Tickets include: Three Nights Camping with Luxury Toilets & Showers, Option for Open Fires, FREE Show Guide, Exclusive Evening Entertainment & Activities, Souvenir Lanyard, Exclusive Weekend Ticket Holder Only Activities, FREE Vouchers to Paid Activities and a range of FREE Activities & Demonstrations. Weekend Ticket holders can arrive early from 2pm on Friday 23nd May 2014 and depart by 6pm on Monday 26th May 2014.

TICKET DETAILS Advance Weekend Ticket: Adult

DAV ID SC OT T �DO

Advanced Day Tickets: Adult

Saturday £20

Sunday £20

Monday £16

Child (5-15 years inclusive)

£8

£8

£6

2 Adult & 2 Children Family £52

£52

£40

1 Adult & 2 Children Family £30

£30

£25

Day Tickets include: FREE Show Guide and a range of Free Activities

B OO T O D K A Y

Show Times Weekend Ticket holders can arrive from 2pm on Friday 23nd May 2014 Saturday 24rd May 2014: 09:30 – 17:30 (18:00 - Evening entertainment for weekend ticket holders only) Sunday 25th May 2014: 09:30 – 17:30 (18:00 - Evening entertainment for weekend ticket holders only) Bank Holiday Monday 26th May 2014: 09:30 – 16:30

For more information visit www.thebushcraftshow.co.uk or follow us on Facebook The Bushcraft Show and Twitter BushcraftShow. Or call 0333 4567 123 (option 2) 54 BUSHCRAFT & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE •

Dogs are welcome.



INTERVIEW

MEET CODY LUNDIN Name: Cody Lundin Date of Birth: 4/8/1976 Pets: Various lizards Favorite colour: Turquoise Favorite environment: Southwest North America Would like to: see a sustainable and selfreliant humanity Known for: not putting up with phony garbage in my profession Cody Lundin, founder of Aboriginal Living Skills School, LLC is best known as the author of ‘When All Hell Breaks Loose: Stuff You Need to Survive When Disaster Strikes’ and ‘98.6 Degrees: The Art of Keeping Your Ass Alive’ and as the star of Discovery Channel’s Dual Survival. But who is he, why does he live off grid and what’s with the bare feet? How did it all begin for Cody, what got you into survival and wilderness skills? A strong urge as a boy to do more, with less on Natures terms. Who is your inspiration? God.



If you could take just one piece of equipment with you into a survival situation, what would it be? Dissecting and interpreting the many variables inherent in all wilderness emergency scenarios is based upon prior field experience and under standing the region in which the emergency takes place so the equipment will vary. Pushing all the different variables aside, if I had to pick one item it would be a knife.

Questions from our readers and followers… John Porter - Who's your stylist? Are you serious? Mitch Ward - What would you consider your top 5 survival tips for any terrain/environment? Before any trip, especially the infamous deadly “day hike”, tell two people that you trust WHERE you are going, WHEN you will return, WHO is in your party, WHAT you are driving to the trailhead, and WHY you are recreating in that particu lar area.

Nick Watts - What is the coldest temperature that you have endured while barefoot. Very cold snow, (there is a difference) demands insulation. I wear three pairs of newer wool socks, one large pair and two extra-large pairs. Will Northcote - What would you consider to be the most important tool in survival? Being able to control fear and panic in oneself and others. Michael Williams - What made you want to live off the grid and in the wild? The real opportunity to be as self-reliant as possible.

We have a number of questions relating to your feet, here are some of them… Lane Martin - Why don’t your feet get cold or hurt? Thorns and all! At times they get cold and hurt. Pushing the boundary when training is different from breaking through. Wisdom comes from knowing the difference. Ryan Hillbilly Mahieu - How did the transition to bare feet go and were there any days where you nearly went back to footwear? Slow and no! Paul Woods – How often do you stub your toe whilst out and about? Not often; people who don’t watch where they are going tend to do the most stubbing. That said, in twenty five years, I have broken one toe, nearly ripped one off, and had hundreds of cactus spines, thorns, pieces of glass, bits of metal and other fragments of unrecognizable material enter and then exit my feet… Scott James - In all of your travels, has there ever been a time when you wished you had a pair of boots? Sandals yes, boots no. On certain par ts of aggressive courses, (extremely hot ground temperatures, thick cactus and carrying heavy supplies) I wear sandals if I need them. There are some places on Earth where foot protection is a must. Joe Gossage - What would it take to make you put shoes on? I am not anti-shoe; I simply prefer to go barefoot wherever I can. And I enjoy the challenge. When people think me going barefoot is strange, they telegraph their lack of world travel and experience with other cultures. Hundreds of thousands of people, from grandmothers to little boys go barefoot on a daily basis around the world. To them, going barefoot is quite normal. To someone who has grown up wearing shoes in a culture that suppor ts only shoe wearing, going barefoot i s quite fantastical.

57 BUSHCRAFT BUSHCRAFT& &SURVIVAL SURVIVALSKILLS SKILLSMAGAZINE MAGAZINE 57 • •

INTERVIEW

ames Harris - What type of terrain are you happiest to survive in with minimal equipment and where would be your least favourite? The bio region in which one has the “easiest” time surviving is one that is known the b est by the survivor. Ari zona has more geographical diversity, in the shortest drive time, of any place in North A merica. I have taught winter survival at 10,000 feet and then desert survival an hour’s drive away the very next day. Extreme terrain variation demands a high level and diversity of skill The endprovincresult and field experience. With three geographical es, 10 different life zones, and all four North American deserts, Arizona is an awesome training ground. I love the bio regions!

Ollie James - If you have one tip for a young person that is into survival, what would it be? Avoid training from frauds as they will dirty your educational foundation, retard your growth as a student, and could endanger your life. Field credibility in survival skills does not come from a Facebook page, blog, a plethora of back yard youtube videos, or even a survival television show. As a potent example, the majority of people featured on survival TV shows are not real survival instructors. ALWAYS ask your would be teacher for a professional resume with references and CHECK the references. Your life is worth the extra effort. S Boardman – what is the most amazing survival story that you have, or have heard about? I love the book “The Long Walk” by Slavomir Rawicz. The movie version is rubbish and should be avoided at all costs. Do you have any more books in the pipeline? Yes, but I haven’t had time to write in a few years due to teaching and filming. Hopefully soon…. What are your plans for the future? Teach, train, build, and teach some more. Write and maybe, just maybe more T V. Come and meet Cody at The Bushcraft Show 2014 where you can hear him talk on the main stage and even book a Specialist Instruction session with him where he will share his wealth of ‘no-nonsense’ knowledge. Checkout page 52, visit www.thebushcraftshow. co.uk and follow thebushcraftshow on Facebook for up to the minute news and competitions.




CANOEING

COASTALCANOEING What canoe owner doesn’t like to explore? And when the river finally slows, widens and meets the sea, who hasn’t gazed out with yearning towards that distant hazy horizon? Of course a sense of self-preservation soon intervenes and the bow is swung about for the homeward journey. But was that turn really necessary?

And then there is fishing

AUTHOR PROFILE:

Tim Gent Happiest living in a tent somewhere close to both sea and mountains, Tim paddles and clambers in search of our remaining wild and inspiring places, documenting these experiences so that others might be encouraged to follow. A very enjoyable role of course, but one also undertaken in the belief that a better understanding of these fragile landscapes might offer the best chance for their survival, and ours.



O

k, so an expedition to France or the Shetlands may be out of the question. Even somewhere like Lundy, visible from our nearest beach and always particularly alluring, is still a long way off. Set far out across some very exposed water, this voyage may have to be left to the sea kayakers. But in the right place, and at the right time, there’s no reason why a confident and experienced canoeist shouldn’t venture onto the salty stuff – at least along those food-filled edges. It’s true that European tradition, even modern American habit, tends to see the canoe as an inland vessel, a river or stillwater boat. To those unfamiliar with their qualities, the canoe probably appears insubstantial for sea use, a little too fragile for the job. Yet this didn’t seem to put off the original designers and builders, the First Americans. An 18th-century Salish fisherman busy pulling a net full of pollock from Puget Sound (off British Columbia), would have been surprised to hear that his 3-foot wide hollowed cedar canoe wasn’t

Sheltered Scottish sea lochs ma k e great places to tak e a canoe. T h is is Loch Etiv e

of the predominant south-westerlies by the Waternish peninsula.

In good weather, such as here off Senja in Norway, it is possible to work your way from one nearby island to another

a seagoing craft. So too would the Beothuk of Newfoundland, who regularly took birch-bark canoes, rarely more than 20 foot in length, far offshore in search of food. True, the majority of the indigenous American canoeists used their open craft on inland lakes, but then look at some of those lakes. Even the smaller ones can be the size of English counties. Some of the big boys are truly vast, and quite capable of facing up to our Channel on equal terms. If the canoe can cope with Lake Superior, it can manage a few bays, estuaries or sea lochs. And here of course lies the nub of the matter. As the mantra of the house-buyer has it – location, location, location. Much as I’d love to set out for France on a fine sunny morning – and I still keep eying up Lundy – it is vital to recognise your vessel’s limits. Lundy is sadly beyond them (at least with me at the helm). Many other more sheltered offshore destinations though are not. Some islands, such as Shona, nestled in Loch Moidart, make ideal destinations. A visit to Wiay, in the protective lee of Benbecula, is quite possible, or the island of Losay just off the northern edge of Skye, where some very impressive sea urchins lie hidden just under the kelp at low tide. This fascinating and now abandoned isle may be well over half a mile from the shore, but the approach is protected from the worst

Scattered across the cod and mackerel rich sea to the west of Senja’s Bergsfjorden in northern Norway, a myriad of stony islands can be explored, despite a seemingly exposed position facing the open Atlantic. Spread in tight formation, a string of short hops is possible from one skerry or islet to another. A perfectly sensible canoe journey is possible – in the right weather. Which leads to obvious coastal canoeing point number two – the weather matters. With light airs wafting their way across a Cornish estuary or sheltered Scottish sea loch, a journey in a canoe is fine. You can even venture out a bit further into the open in good steady conditions. But wind means waves, and waves can mean trouble, so a close scrutiny of as many forecasts as possible pays dividends on the peace of mind front. I might consider the canoe to be a suitable seagoing craft, but only a suitable fine weather seagoing craft. To help here I always try to carry a small radio when out and about. Less kind members of the family have suggested that this is done merely to keep a check on the cricket score, and while it has to be admitted that the occasional Ashes test has been known


•

61

CANOEING

to intrude on the sanctity of wild places, its prime purpose really is to make contact with the shipping news, or at least a local weather forecast. Clever modern phones will do this too of course, until the batteries run flat on the second day out, or the signal vanishes as soon as you paddle round the first headland.

Boscastle Harbour in Cornwall - well protected from the open sea beyond the cliffs

Even in a bit of a breeze things should be fine, with care, and again, in the right place. I can recall some really nasty steep and close waves, growing by the minute as we fought our way along the Lewis coast opposite Taransay. Hard work yes, but then we never ventured more than 20 or 30 feet from a surprisingly untroubled sandy beach. No real risk was taken. In fact, in the hands of someone happy on moving water, the canoe can manage some pretty big swell, but as a basic rule of thumb – avoid any waves that are breaking. Actually, even in good conditions, I usually hug the coast, often really quite close in. Safety plays a definite part in this, but then I also like nothing more than to troll along only yards from the shore, peering down at the bottom through only a few feet of clear water. To my mind there’s nothing that competes with this narrow and very special strip of water, set tight between the terrestrial and marine world. From one enjoyable vantage point, you can revel in views of land, sky and sea, and importantly, that mysterious and evidently alien world just beneath the hull. Something special is lost once the bottom disappears from view. Fish tend to be more interested in something flashy trolled behind the canoe in these depths too. Always an important consideration. When conditions allow I may venture further out of course, but only once sure that I’m heading for something with plenty of good landing points – and with somewhere safe and near at hand to scuttle towards if things should take a sudden turn for the worse. It is said that the Beothuk may have paddled out from Newfoundland in their birchbark canoes as far as Labrador, but then circumstance (hunger) probably left them with little alternative. In our comfortable modern world we are rarely short of options. We should exercise that choice. There is no shame at all in turning back – or not setting out at all. And when you have decided to launch, and the urge to leave the relative security of the shoreline is strong, here is a seemingly pleasant scenario to consider. You’re stood on the edge of a largish expanse of water. Cheer is in your heart because while you need to paddle quite a long way to your intended destination, set way over on the other side, there’s a pleasant breeze at your back, one you feel confident will help push you all the way. The sun is out and the water looks perfect, with only the smallest of waves on the surface beyond the canoe’s bow. Setting out you hardly need to paddle, that breeze is pushing you along nicely, possibly even building a little as you reach the halfway point. The problem is, that the waves are starting to build too, helped by that very same breeze - or is it now a light wind? The further you go the higher they lift. But still, you tell yourself, the far shore is at least approaching - slowly.


Pick only the calmest of days to head out into open water

Growing closer, but not that fast, the water below your canoe begins to shallow. Simple physics are now against you. As the depth decreases, the waves grow yet larger. When a particularly strong gust buffets at your back, twisting the canoe a touch, you suddenly realise the day isn’t nearly as pleasant as you thought. What now? Keep going, the waves lifting and curling white at the crest, or try to turn back? Can you turn back? To spin beam on to these waves now is a very risky business. And those waves are still growing…

In summary, always be very wary of any open water crossing with a following wind. It might seem to be harder work, but setting out into a breeze should ensure that you see the worst conditions right in front of you, before even setting off. It is also much easier to turn back when you’re reasonably confident in what lies between you and the now very welcome shore astern. Then, as it’s the sea, we have tides and tidal streams. You knew this of course, but not perhaps the full story. When small, slow and gentle, as found around the Kintyre coast or in the Baltic, tides are little more than a gradual change in sea level. Sometimes though, as you’ll soon discover if you venture into the Taw-Torridge estuary on the north side of Devon, they can be thundering and scary. Big tides can have a surprisingly large impact on the water, particularly in the often shallow or constricted


water best suited to canoes. With a mixture of exhilaration and mild concern, we were reminded of this once when crossing Doom Bar near Padstow (surprise surprise I hear you say). Working cheerfully upstream on an otherwise calm day, a helpful following wind gradually found itself competing with a strong ebb flow. Very interesting conditions resulted. Again, it was comforting to have a pleasant sandy beach not too far away on the port quarter. There was also another canoe in the party - always a reassurance on any wilder stretch, and an important consideration. There really is safety in numbers, particularly if everyone is familiar with both self–recovery and assisting another canoe in difficulty. It should almost go without saying that any safety skill needed inland becomes particularly important once away from the beach or cove. So you want to paddle from A to salty B. The Met Office people claim that it is going to be still and dry for days. You’ve a printout of a tide timetable (it is even for the place and time you’re going to visit). What next?

Approaching Isay off Skye - in good weather, and with the added safety of another canoe in the party

Playing in the surf - gentle surf

Years of experience on the sea will be useful, but perhaps you can only draw on an hour of almost unbearable cold and damp aboard some uncontrollable dinghy, hired years and years ago by your scout group or youth club. At this point I think it is vital to stress that even if you haven’t years of maritime familiarity, you will at least be an experienced and competent canoeist (including those recovery skills just mentioned). A life on the ocean blue isn’t fun, or even very secure, if you’re not. If you’re not in instinctive and unthinking control of your craft at all times (well almost all at least), then best stay away from the tidal stuff. As you are a veteran paddler, I don’t need to go on about basics. You have a canoe, spare paddles (bow and stern), PFDs and a varied and colourful collection of waterproof bags holding spare clothes, something to eat and even perhaps a bothy bag. You

may also have a safety rope in a little red bag (worth taking). Even if you usually forget it, a bailer is now pretty important – wet stuff does get in offshore. I think two are a good idea, and biggish ones at that. In addition, floatation bags are probably a very good move, certainly to start with. I suspect they should probably be retained beyond that, but they do take up a lot of useful space. Spray decks? No doubt effective I'm sure, but I admit to no experience. My prejudices may be unfounded of course, but I've always suspected that they’d get in the way – and don't you just end up with a poor version of a kayak anyway. In the end, if you want to explore the sea in anything like its wilder or more open state, surely the purebred enclosed seagoing kayak is the proper choice for the paddler anyway. If I’m really going to need a spray deck, I’ll probably choose to spend the day ashore. Whistles and flares – the first pretty essential, the latter probably a sensible precaution, especially once you become adventurous. Maps are a must, although I’m not suggesting you need dedicated marine charts, just something to ensure you know where you are. Good old Ordnance Survey sheets will be fine (in a watertight map-case), or those wonderful Harvey Mountain Maps, printed on wave-proof polyethylene. A compass of course, possibly two, but again, only the sort you might take into the hills. Although I always carry a mobile phone (in its own little dry-bag) a hand-held VHF set may well be a better alternative, but should be accompanied by the appropriate training and licence.

Lastly, you might consider an anchor. Far from essential, and not within the usual experience of a canoeist I know, but they can have their place (although not perhaps in the usual safety role familiar to users of more conventional saltwater craft). In my experience a canoe doesn't ride well to an anchor in any form of strong current. Something to do with the narrow beam/length ratio perhaps – I’m not sure. All I know is that they tend to weave about all over the place, sometimes with disconcerting spirit. Weighing anchor by hand in a fast tidal flow is not fun. All that said, an anchor can provide a wonderful chance to take a breather in gentler conditions. And if a useful buoy can’t be found to trespass upon for a while, an anchor is just the job, especially one of the umbrellalike folding ones that take up relatively little space.


•

63

CANOEING

This can be particularly useful if you want to fish (of course you want to fish). Drifting is fine of course, but the chance to drop anchor, to feel the comforting tug as the flukes bite into the sand, and then to lean back against the gunwale in the sun and await the next bite (it will come won’t it?) is one of life’s simple yet rather special pleasures. On the matter of kit, I will take this Riding the swell back into Boscastle opportunity to Harbour. Just watch out for the sing the praises of breaking stuff a boat with plenty of freeboard (the distance between the water and the gunwales) and a decent amount of rocker (see my article in the last issue). The benefits of the first should be obvious. Rocker may be a matter of taste, but a canoe well endowed in this area was designed to be manoeuvrable in moving water after all. A canoe with a straight keel certainly tracks well, but does tend to be pulled about a lot by wave and current, The canoe can take you to some particularly when wonderfully remote spots, even in the trend is at relatively busy areas. This is Scolt an angle to your Head Island, just off the north coast intended direction of Norfolk of travel, or when everything has become a little mixed (fairly usual coastal conditions then). The ability to slip like an eel over the waves is invaluable, particularly if you suddenly have to account for a large bow wave or wake on your beam. Most vessels tend to view a canoe at sea as capable with dealing with this sort of thing (well they’re right of course, if you choose to be out there, you should be) and they don’t slow down. A 90-foot trawler in a hurry to reach the fishing grounds before the next gale can move quite a bit of water. Which leads neatly to matters of observation. More than just about anywhere else you might choose to canoe, coastal waters require a flexible neck (I wish mine moved a little more freely). Just as a fighter pilot’s security is, or at least was, bound closely to the frequency of a good glance over the shoulder, so too is that of a seagoing canoeist. Even a sailing boat can appear out of nowhere pretty fast, to say nothing of a dory full of wreck-bound divers or a powerboat pulling a water-skier. Vigilance is vital.


So too is at least a rudimentary idea of buoyage and what is grandly termed The 1972 International Regulations for the Provision of Collisions at Sea, or IRPCS. While a canoe can usually get away with ignoring much of the former, and is probably best off as far from any marked lanes as possible, it is very useful indeed to know what everyone else is up to, or should be up to at least. If in any doubt though, just get out of the way. My grandfather, not unfamiliar incidentally with the sea himself, used to liken small boats and other vessels to teacups and saucepans – bang them together and you always end up with the same result. And finally, contingency plans. Of course I don’t really need to tell experienced canoeists about these. All should be used to memorising a range of alternatives to the intended trip - something to deal with any change in circumstances. It’s just that at sea you probably need to have a few more considered alternatives at your fingertips – little bays for example, that can be reached if wind or sea conditions change, and the knowledge that they will be accessible at the current tide level, and that the gentle swell you are on won’t be a good surf by the time it has reached the refuge of your choice (landing in any form of surf is one of the trickiest aspects of coastal paddling, and certainly best learnt on as small a wave as possible - try to keep a pointy bit facing the oncoming lumpy stuff, and watch out when the shore end touches down). In general then, lots of options, and eyes peeled at all times. But enough of the nannying. One of the reasons I enjoy the sea so much is that it is still a place for grown ups, one of the last places left in this ever more controlled world in which some room for free choice, and a little healthy and evaluated risk-taking remains possible. And for any canoe owner with fishing or foraging instincts, the benefits of accessing the rich pickings of the coast are obvious. After all, this food-rich zone, where land meets the sea wasn’t so popular with our hunter–gatherer ancestors for nothing. So, throw everything into your fine load carrier, tie it down tight, hop in, and paddle away. Don’t expect an easy time of it. Don’t expect complete security of mind or body. Do expect exhilaration and a rare connection with things that matter.


SUBSCRIBE TODAY! SUBSCRIPTION ORDER FORM

W I N !

BCM50

E R A R E I N D E H I D E

BUSHCRAFT Reviews

PAYMENT OPTIONS

WOLF&LYNXTracking inSlovakia

TheOutdoorClassroom



ExtremeSurvivors



WinterJackets



Survive a Winter’s Night In a LEAN-TO

1.

DA Y !

F ro m o n £ 29 ly

The UK’s F IRST Bus hc r aft Magazine ! en d a r p36 Co u n t d o wn to C hri s t m as w ith o ur Bushc ra ft A d ven t Ca l

WHITEWILDE RNESS

S ub s c T O ri b e

Catapults 

WinterWildlife – ExploretheWild!

How-toMake&

1 Year Subscription (3 FREE Back Issues or a LMF Mini Firesteel)

FitAnAxeHandle

andmuchmore...

W IN !

E ME R G E N C Y C AR K I T

UK £29 Europe £55 Rest of World £72

Tick your gift option

3 Free Back Issues

LMF Mini Firesteel

2 Year Subscription (6 FREE Back Issues or a Grandpa's FireGrill)

B u s h c r a f t & S u r v i v a l S k i l l s M a g a z i n e I s s u e 4 0 N o v / D e c

2 0 1 2

h e T a b l e& M e a t o n t t ic kson Wr igh

o d s F o r g o t te n F o

hes you R ichard Lees, teac kno wn w i ld a bou t lesser- abou t the Learn C larissa D t he s hare de licious foods – Jo hnn y Sco ttoo k ing succu len t p lants you won ’t find in rec ipes forc tmasp 4 4 gu ide boo ks p8 game t hisC hris

i n g O u td o o rL e a rn wea ve i ts

ld wor ld Le t t he w i peop le as mag ic on young ir crea t iv i t y the y un leas h the era l ice a r t e ep hem and ma k p 78 Issue 41 Nov/Dec 12

‘for living life outdoors’

Certno.TTCOC-2200

ISSUES

UK £58 Europe £110 Rest of World £144 Tick your gift option

6 Free Back Issues

1

11

13

14

15

20

21

23

26

28

29

30

31

32

33

34

35

36

37

40

41

42

43

44

45

46

47

48

49

Grandpa's FireGrill

Please tick which FREE back issue you would like if ordering online state them in the notes box.

2 Magazine binders £20 inc P&P

TOTAL______

See p64 for Back Issues

 Magazine binder £12.95 each inc P&P 

YOUR DETAILS (ESSENTIAL) Title:

Name:

Surname:

Address:

Postcode:

Grandpa's FireGrill Why limit yourself to sausages or marshmallows? After all, everything tastes better outdoors! Grandpa's FireGrill is a great way to enhance your experience. Now it’s easy to cook your freshly caught fish packed with lemon slices and herbs.

Country:

Daytime tel number: Email address:

GIFT RECIPIENT'S DETAILS Title:

Name:

Surname:

Address:

Postcode:

Light My Fire Mini Firesteel* Originally developed for the Swedish Department of Defense, Swedish FireSteel is a flash of genius. Its 3,000°C spark makes fire building easy in any weather, at any altitude.

Country:

2.

3.

Daytime tel number:

SUBSCRIBE TODAY and get a one of the above subscription gifts when you SUBSCRIBE, EXTEND or RENEW your subscription to Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine.

Email address:

OTHERPAYMENTS:

Card Number:

Name on Card

Offer ends 26th June 2014

   

* Colour may vary

1 00%

M O N E Y -B AC K G

U AR AN T E E

Valid from:   Exp. date:   Iss no: Security no. (Last three digits on the signature strip):  Cardholder’s House no.  (If applicable) Cardholder’s Postcode: 

3 Easy Ways to Subscribe… • Complete the subscription form • Call 0333 4567 123 (option 1) • Visit www.bushcraftmagazine.com

 I enclose a cheque / postal order

We are so confident that you will love Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine that if you are not completely satisfied with the first copy of your subscription, if you return the copy to us (and if applicable, unused gift) within 14 days from the purchase date, we will give you a full refund.

/

/

made payable to SO Publications & Events Ltd for £ Send the completed form, along with a cheque or postal order (where applicable) to: SO Publications & Events Ltd, PO Box 16777, Tamworth, B77 9NG SO Publications & Events Ltd reserves the right to send an alternative gift of similar value. Your gift will be sent separately within 28 days. Calls to 0333 numbers are charged at local rate. SO Publications & Events Ltd, publisher of Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine, may contact you with details of our products and services or to undertake research. Please tick here if you prefer not to receive such information by post email phone

Go on, treat yourself – you deserve it!

✃ 66

•

BUSHCRAFT & SURVIVAL SKILLS

MAGAZINE


In t he

next issue HOW�TO MAKE CANDLES USING 5 NATURAL RESOURCES WHAT WENT ON AT THE BUSHCRAFT SHOW 2014 NATURE’S CALENDAR � At this time of year, flora is at its best and dragonflies are displaying their remarkable aerial skills. Find out about other breathtaking wildlife displays and learn where to go to see them. MORE HUMOROUS AND EDUCATIONAL SURVIVAL STORIES BY LOFTY WISEMAN NOT GOT ENOUGH POCKETS? We take a look at a selection of pouches to keep all your bushcraft goodies in! CANOE BASICS � Tim Gent provides guidance to the beginner on how-to get to grips with using your canoe HOW TO MAKE A SIMPLE FORGE HIGH SUMMER, HIGH TIDE � Delicious Wild Foods for Mid Summer MAKE A MACHETE SHEATH WITH OUR BUSHCRAFT ON A BUDGET EXPERT

And much more…

W I N !

a D e lu x e H a n d ma d L ea t h e

e r P ou c h

On sale 26th June 2014

DON'T miss out… subscribe www.bushcraftmagazine.com or see p66


•

67

PERRY MCGEE

TERRORISM AT LARGE

AUTHOR PROFILE:

Perry McGee Son of the late Eddie McGee, Perry is no stranger to the wilds. With over 40 years experience in survival training and leadership, he has endured survival training and situations in all types of terrain and climates, gaining knowledge of survival scenarios all over the world. Perry loves helping others learn these skills and willingly assists others where possible. Perry is founder of the National Tracking School and author of a number of books including The Tracking Handbook.

68

•



The posed threat of terrorism is ever present, constant reminders are with us in our daily life, examples of seemingly endless suicide attacks and repugnant images from acts of terror are instantly reported around the world.

E

ven if the UK is not directly affected, antiterrorism restrictions have been placed upon all international travel, while longterm disruption to trade and tourism with affected countries follows each successive attack. Terrorism and the threat of terrorism has changed the world, and the way we live our lives. It now plays a part in the planning and running of major events and the construction of buildings. It plays its part in organised crime, extortion and piracy as well as advertising and promoting extreme religious views. Above all, it is responsible for the death of many innocent victims.

THE UK CONTEST STRATEGY - To this end in 2003 the British Government created and implemented a counter terrorist strategy known as CONTEST, specifically designed to reduce the risk of international terrorism and to allow people to go freely about their business, without restraint and with confidence. The four principle work streams for the Contest Strategy are PURSUE, PREVENT, PROTECT AND PREPARE. Contest is continually assessed and updated. These four elements involve a multi agency strategy including the emergency services, voluntary organisations, representatives from the business sector and partners from all around the world.

PURSUE Pursue is the strand of the counter-terrorism work stream that aims to stop terrorist attacks in the United Kingdom and against interests overseas and is the most immediate priority.

PREVENT Prevent is the strand created to stop people from becoming terrorists or supporting terrorism.

PROTECT Protect is the work stream of the counter-terrorism strategy that aims to strengthen protection against terrorist attacks in the United Kingdom or against our interests overseas, and thereby reduce vulnerability.

PREPARE Prepare is the work stream of the counter-terrorism strategy that aims to mitigate the impact of a terrorist incident where it cannot be stopped.

THE UK CRITICAL NATIONAL INFRASTRUCTURE (CNI) In the UK, the essential services are known as the Critical National Infrastructure (CNI). The CNI comprises those assets, services and systems that support the economic well being, the political and social life of the UK whose importance is such that without it would: • Cause large-scale loss of life • Have a serious impact on the national economy • Have other grave social consequences for the community • Be of immediate concern to the national government.

Within the strand of PROTECT a vital role for the United Kingdom government is to ensure the continuity of society in times of crisis and is described as providing extra protection to essential services and systems, to make them more resistant to disruption, and better able to recover quickly. In the United Kingdom, the CNI has also been categorised into nine further interdependent sections. COMMUNICATIONS • EMERGENCY SERVICES • ENERGY • FINANCE • FOOD • GOVERNMENT & PUBLIC SERVICES • HEALTH • TRANSPORT • WATER

The aims of these further nine independent sectors are to reduce the vulnerability of the national infrastructure to terrorism and other threats, keeping the UKs essential services working. THREAT LEVELS IN THE UNITED KINGDOM – Not many people know that on 1 August 2006 information on the threat level to the United Kingdom from terrorism was made available to the public. The national threat levels are as follows: LEVEL 5 LOW - AN ATTACK IS UNLIKELY


•

69

PERRY MCGEE

LEVEL 4 MODERATE - AN ATTACK IS

POSSIBLE, BUT NOT LIKELY LEVEL 3 SUBSTANTIAL - AN ATTACK IS A

STRONG POSSIBILITY LEVEL 2 SEVERE - AN ATTACK IS HIGHLY

LIKELY LEVEL 1 CRITICAL - AN ATTACK IS

EXPECTED IMMINENTLY THE CURRENT UK THREAT LEVEL FROM INTERNATIONAL TERRORISM TO THE UK IS ASSESSED AS SUBSTANTIAL

https://www.mi5.gov.uk/home/about-us/ faqs-about-mi5/what-is-the-currentnational-threat-level.html RESPONDING TO A TERRORIST INCIDENT - In a terrorist attack, the

United kingdom government works closely with local authorities and police to respond. The government, police and emergency services will all work together when an attack occurs to deal with the aftermath and minimise further disruption and impact. The police will take the operational lead on the ground, with vast and wide-ranging support from a number of governmental departments and agencies. GO IN, STAY IN, TUNE IN - In the event of an

emergency public safety is the absolute priority. The government's policy on communicating about acts of terrorism involves the issue of warnings to the public that will best protect any community or venue facing a specific credible threat. In the event of an incident the message will almost always be ‘go in, stay in, tune in’. WHAT CAN THE PUBLIC DO?

Remain vigilant, whatever the threat level. IF YOU HAVE ANY SUSPICIONS ABOUT POSSIBLE TERRORIST ACTIVITY REPORT IT TO THE ANTI TERRORIST HOTLINE ON 0800 789 321. The Anti Terrorist Hotline is for tip offs and confidential information. The public should call 999 if there is an immediate threat to life. PROTECT YOUR PASSPORTS – MORE USEFUL THAN WEAPONS TO A TERRORIST - Approximately half a million United

Kingdom passports go missing, or are stolen every year. Stolen passports allow terrorists and criminals to travel freely throughout the world, obtain goods and credit and thereby funding for their cause, facilitating death to innocents. Take care of your passport,

70

•


do not carry it around unnecessarily and if you must, keep it on your person rather than in a bag. Avoid obvious areas where pick pockets and thieves are and do not leave your passport as security at bars or clubs. Remember very few people have the right to examine your passport so be wary of strange requests from unofficial sources. If you have to have your passport examined ensure that it is returned directly to you. If you have lost your passport report it missing as soon as possible at https://www.gov.uk/report-a-lost-or-stolenpassport Travellers are advised to carry separate photocopies of the back page of the passport, to assist in the replacement process. BE AWARE OF POTENTIAL THREATS

Remember to be vigilant, particularly when in crowded areas. Be aware of your surroundings when travelling or in shopping centres or entertainment venues. Where is your nearest emergency exit? Report any unattended bags or luggage. Familiarise yourself with how to operate a fire extinguisher and with emergency first aid. This type of preparation can limit the impact of a terrorist act.



•

71

The Natural Choice for Woodburning Stoves

From the foothills of Dartmoor, renowned for it’s cold winters, Yeoman has grown to become one of the leading stove manufacturers with a wide selection of traditionally-styled woodburning and multi-fuel stoves; with the additional versatility provided by our gas and electric versions. There are also several high-output boiler models (up to 18kW) for a complete home heating solution and new to the Yeoman family is the eye-catching CL range with its modern traditional styling, making them the perfect choice for 21st century living. Burning logs in our high efficiency clean-burning stoves is an environmentally friendly, carbon neutral and cost effective heating source, so opt for a Yeoman - the natural choice for a natural warmth

WO OD

•

MULTI�FUEL

•

GAS

CL Stove Range

•

ELECTRIC

•

BOILER STOVES

www.yeomanstoves.co.uk For more information on all Yeoman stoves, (including high output boiler models), visit our website or call 01392 474060

MilitaryMart – Hoods (UK) The Home of Army Surplus We at MilitaryMart specialise in Ex Army surplus kit from all over the world, we source suppliers and buy direct cutting the cost to you the customer… Not only do we sell Military Surplus we have a large complement of outdoor pursuits and camping equipment. We usually hold large stocks of Swedish trangia’s, reindeer hides, scandanivan rucksacks, military clothing andmuch more… T: 01695 228 323 E: [email protected] W: www.militarymart.co.uk

Beneath The Stars – Leathercraft Handmade leather items primarily for use in a ‘bushcraft’ or outdoor environment, including; knife, axe and saw sheaths, as well as camping accessories. W: www.beneaththestars.net T: 07917358857

E: beneaththestars @live.co.uk

Jack Raven Bushcraft & Woodland Skills Based in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in the heart of Kent, Jack Raven Bushcraft is dedicated to providing its customers with an unforgettable bushcraft experience. W: www.jackravenbushcraft.co.uk T: 07553 763397 E: [email protected]

CONNECTING

THE SPIRIT OF BUSHCRAFT AUTHOR PROFILE:

Lewis Herridge Lewis Herridge is the founder and owner of Re-Evolving Earth. He is an outdoor activities and bushcraft instructor teaching at the University of Derby and at Institute for Outdoor Learning events. He has travelled to over 20 countries on six continents leading overseas expeditions and meeting many indigenous people. He is a product of bettering himself through nature’s wisdom and looking within.

Outdoor education has been missing a vital component in recent years; spirituality. This is something that is missed throughout much of our culture, but is needed more than ever when we look at the state of our society and the people within it.

A

s outdoor enthusiasts we are all aware that there is something special about being outdoors and amongst nature. If you are like me, you may have almost come to rely on it to enable you to live a happy and productive life. In a recent, deep and meaningful debate around a campfire with fellow enthusiasts, the question was asked; ‘How does the outdoors environment make you feel?’ Interestingly these were the main responses;

1. It is good for the spirit. 2. If offers adventure, we all want adventure, whether on a street corner or in nature. 3. Good to keep your head level. It has made me a calmer person. 4. It has a bit of something for everyone…touches all aspects of life. 5. Allows you to switch off from the rat race. 6. You can work at a pace dictated by nature and not other people.

From this response, it is clear that nature offers us something that is ‘real’ and much of this is supported by countless pieces of research. It offers us adventure which excites us and brings us joy, an inner calm, peace and a place to find our own identity, away from the ‘someone’ that we are told to be through our high tech and ‘advanced’ society; which is becoming increasingly fake and as one person put it; ‘spiritually bankrupt’. I believe that the outdoors environment plays a key role to help create a better world in the face of a plethora of global problems. Whether it be climate change, global inequality, over use of world resources, unethical business, or a breakdown in the financial and political systems, the problem remains the same. The Dalai Lama, in his book Beyond Religion (2012) claims that; ‘ultimately the source of our problems lies at the level of the individual’. This is a common notion as many recognise that people in today’s society and especially in developed Western nations, have lost their values in the chase for material wealth and superficial rewards. We have become so busy in the work, leisure, sleep cycle that we have forgotten the basics. But this is going to change.

7. You can just be…



I believe that the possibilities in the outdoor setting in general are fantastic, and that Bushcraft has an immense potential to re-awaken our spirits and thus help create a better world. The word ‘Bushcraft’ is used to describe a way of life, a lifestyle lived in balance and harmony with the planet and each other, but it appears that it has been misrepresented in many respects. It has been developed largely out of the military way of doing things and bushcraft companies and courses are often lead by ex-servicemen many of whom, let’s be fair, may not be interested in the spiritual. Many people are left wanting a deeper connection to nature. Additionally, you can now do a course learning almost any skill related to Bushcraft and this is great, but what about the other side to it? What about its power to inspire, teach and create inner peace? Or the ability to allow you to connect with nature. These characteristics are seriously underrated, a situation that urgently needs to be addressed. If you do a ‘Google search’ for spiritual Bushcraft courses, little will show up. Occasionally you may find someone that is adopting some principles of Celtic spirituality which I don't know much about. But my point is that there is very little activity regarding spirituality in the outdoors or Bushcraft, even though the subject of Bushcraft is centred on balance and harmony and it is a perfect platform. For clarity, and because the word can be easily misunderstood, when I use the term spirituality I really mean; to awaken your true self which is inside of you. In this instance, it is not related to any form of religion, even though many of the world’s religions stem from this concept. A spiritual way of looking at the world is to look within and change yourself. When you do this you discover that we have been split in two. The first is what many call the ego or the thinking mind. This is the mental image that we create for ourselves. This is where we solve problems, think up solutions or overcome great obstacles but it is also where we criticise others or ourselves, where we worry about the future and are overcome and controlled by our emotions such as greed, anger and hate. This is the state where many of us are 95% of the time. The second is a dimension of inner depth that is deeper than name or form. It is the life force that sustains not only us but all of nature. Many call this the soul, consciousness or God. This dimension is unknown to many people but is active more than you may think. It is where peace, stillness and love originate from and is the dimension that grows with spiritual development. This dimension is who we really are! This concept maybe hard to comprehend but mainstream physics is now beginning to support this view. They have discovered that everything around us is made up of atoms and one percent of

every atom is composed of protons, neutrons, and electrons. The other 99% is empty space. To put this in comparison if the nucleus (centre of Atom) was the size of a penny the electrons would be whizzing around a large Cathedral and everything else is empty space. So how does everything appear so solid if it is 99% space? This is simple, atoms vibrate; they carry a certain frequency which decides on their density. The world we see and our bodies are just energy vibrating. The Universe is a big collection of energy and frequency. But the planet also vibrates and this is known as the Schumann resonance, the pulse of Earth or the pulse of Life; it has a frequency of 7.83Hz. This is almost the same as human alpha brain waves from 8-12 Hz which are seen in wakefulness when a person is relaxed but alert. Alpha brain waves are also heavily linked to creativity and meditative states. Beta waves have a higher frequency of above 13Hz and are seen when we are highly alert, focused and thinking analytically and most of our day as adults is spent in the beta state. Now is it just a coincidence that the outdoor environment makes you feel relaxed and "in tune" or is this proof that it is something significantly deeper? Perhaps our natural state is re-harmonising with that of the planet?! I believe that Bushcraft can be the ideal tool to encourage the awakening of your spirit. On my courses we use common activities such as friction fire-lighting, shelter building, craft making, open fire cooking and woodland exploration with a new spiritual approach to enhance our true well-being. We must combine current understanding of science and physics and link this with ancient spiritual practices such as meditation and mindfulness (being in the present moment). By doing this we can re-discover our natural state. This includes; boosting creativity by utilising the underused right side of the brain, encouraging self-sufficiency, arousing a new motivation, gaining a clearer understanding of our true reality, awakening our spirits, inspiring better general well-being through looking at nature's wisdom and discovering new things about ourselves and the world around us. By completing a course you will be armed with information and practices on how to improve ourselves individually in our day to day lives. Just think, many of us will spend much money on our professional development, but very little on developing ourselves for the better. These methods will enable us to grow and re-learn the basics to create inner balance, deep peace and happiness; which if enough people do, will reflect on our outer reality. Clearly though, further exploration is needed in this area and I urge fellow Bushcrafters and Outdoor enthusiasts to consider the spiritual in their own outdoor adventures. As for me I truly believe in this and have created Re-Evolving Earth as a by-product. Please check it out and support my work. www.re-evolvingearth.com or search Facebook; Re-Evolving Earth.


•

75



R S Y F E A A R

T he Amazi ng Advent ur es o f...

a rs e a y R M

BURP GR YLLS

REVIEW

BIOLITE FAMILY By Paul Watson

Ke t tle boiled, time to ge t dinner on...

By now, many people will have heard of the BioLite Stove, which lets you generate electricity whilst you cook. I heard about it before it was launched and had it on pre-order from the US for several months. I just liked the idea of it, as most electronic devices soon become bricks if you’re out in the woods for more than a few days and at least with this stove you can now keep them topped up (if you want to!).

T

he body of the stove is stainless steel, with three fold-out legs and all the electronics and power generation are contained in a plastic housing that sits on the side. There’s a self-recharging lithium ion battery inside which runs a small fan that the stove uses to ensure a constant, clean burning, nearly smokeless fire once it gets going. It typically takes less than five minutes to go from unpacking the stove to a roaring fire capable of generating electricity. Using only wood and other biomass as fuel it generates enough electricity to charge small electronic devices such as phones, GPS, and torch batteries via a standard USB interface on the front. It produces a steady 2W @ 5V (0.4A) with a peak of 4W, so it’s great for charging smartphones, but it can’t quite generate the power required to charge larger devices such as iPads.

The fan-assisted fire ensures a good hot flame for cooking on and the stove can boil a litre of water in about 4.5 minutes, so it compares pretty well with gas-powered camping stoves and can


be used for a quick brew-up. As it’s a raised fire you also don’t have to worry about clearing the ground and tidying up afterwards like you would with a small campfire. The unit is pretty stable and only has a small footprint, but you do need a fairly level surface to place it on, especially when you have the extra weight of cooking pots on top. The stove is fuel efficient and uses less wood than a conventional fire (46g of wood to boil 1L of water they claim), but the combustion chamber is relatively small (think twigs, not sticks) so the fan assisted burn means that you’ll need to top it up with fuel every 5-10 minutes. This isn’t a problem if you’re sitting next to it cooking, but charging a typical smartphone from empty to full can take 4+ hours, so you can end up a bit tied to it if you’re not careful. A bit of forward-planning can avoid this though if you do longer charges when you’re going to be around camp for a while and can check on it every so often. When not in use, the stove packs up into a fairly small bundle (21cm x 12.7cm), with the plastic power unit stored inside the stove body and all neatly contained in the drawstring bag that comes with it. At 935g it’s not the lightest of stoves, but it can replace any existing small stove and reduce the number of spare batteries you have to carry. Since the launch of the stove BioLite have also produced two additional accessories – the Kettlepot and the Portable Grill – and the nice people at BioLite have been kind enough to send us one of each to play with.


The KettlePot is a really clever piece of design that solves several problems. As its name suggests is both a kettle and a pot, but it also acts as a hard storage case for the stove unit. It has a 1.5 litre stainless steel pot, a plastic kettle lid with silicon seal (for efficient boiling and pouring), an internal plastic bowl and a stuff sack. It adds another 435g of weight and increases the overall packed dimensions slightly to (26cm x13.2cm) but you gain a lot more for it and can jettison some other kit from your pack. The Portable Grill is another piece of solid design and stainless steel engineering that rests on top of the BioLite stove, with two locking, fold-out legs to support it. The ingenious design means that all the liquids that come off your food whilst cooking run down into the stove where they either act as fuel or get vaporised – either way keeping the unit free of build-ups when it comes to cleaning. It comes with a plastic lid that covers the top and Getting bottom, so it can be transported even if it’s not a brew clean (although it does come apart into three pieces on whilst for cleaning). It’s a good-sized grill which can cook charging! enough for up to four people, but this means that it’s not exactly pocket-sized at approx. 25cm x 31cm x 9cm and 850g when packed. I wanted to try a few different foods on it, including the all important “Can it make toast test?”, so I had a play. There’s a flip-up lid in the centre of the grill which allows you to put more fuel into the stove. It’s a bit of an art getting the fire levels right to start with, as the fan-assisted fire can be quite feisty with hot flames coming out straight under the food, but you get used it. Choosing the amount and thickness of sticks allows you some control and you can control cooking speed by moving the food across the grill from right (hotter) to left (cooler). So, can it make toast? Yes it can – but a couple of slices of bread suffered a bit until I got things right. It also did me proud on a selection of other grillable items, so it does exactly what it says on the tin. Overall, I think the BioLite stove is a good piece of kit, made even better by the accessories. The KettlePot stores so neatly that I’d always take this if I was taking the stove. The Portable Grill is good but it’s bulkier so I’d probably only take it if I was out for a while with a camp, or at a site that insisted on raised fires. It certainly makes it easier to leave no trace, and would also keep things simple if you’re camping out with small kids where quick pack-up times are a good thing.

A

B

C

D


•

79

NATURAL NAVIGATION

NATURAL NAVIGATION It is probably fair to say that I view the outdoors world in a strange way. When I am outside, everything feels like a clue to me and my mind is nearly always busy trying to uncover signs in the land, sun, moon, stars, trees, plants, animals, sky and clouds.

T

he natural navigation clues are the ones I usually spot first and some of the less well known ones are my favourites - I’ll very happily use a rainbow to find my way if one appears. Aside from navigation there are so many other useful clues out there, from tracks by our feet to the colour of the sky overhead and they are all waiting to be discovered. But it does help a bit when you know when and where to look.

In my latest book, The Walker’s Guide to Outdoor Clues & Signs, I go much deeper into the subject of natural navigation on land and I also explain many of the other useful clues I use. Everybody is probably familiar with the idea that you can use the North Star to find direction and perhaps also that there are more than two dozen other great methods for using the stars to navigate. But it is slightly less well known that we can also use the stars to tell the date and time, forecast the weather, work out the distance to nearby towns and even test our eyesight. The moon can be used to find direction quite easily too, but it also helps with many other areas, like working out what the tides are up to. The next time you see a full moon you have just worked out that the great tidal ranges, the ‘springs’, are about to reach not just the UK, but the rest of the world too. I love the idea that you can predict what the tides will be doing on a Pacific island from a British back garden, just by looking at the sky.

AUTHOR PROFILE:

Tristan Gooley, The Natural Navigator, Tristan Gooley is the author of The Walker’s Guide to Outdoor Clues & Signs and the founder of The Natural Navigator school. Tristan's passion for the subject of natural navigation stems from his hands-on experience. He has led expeditions in five continents, climbed mountains in Europe, Africa and Asia, sailed small boats across oceans and piloted a small aircraft to Africa and the Arctic. He is the only living person to have both flown solo and sailed singlehanded across the Atlantic and is a Fellow of the Royal Institute of Navigation and the Royal Geographical Society.

What if you’re not sure if it’s a full moon or not? There are clues for that too. If it is a full circle, rises near the time of sunset and appears abnormally bright then it is most likely to be a full moon, if not then it’s probably not. Did you know that a full moon gives us nearly ten times as much light as when we see half the moon’s face? Or that you can use the stars to work out what time and direction the moon will rise? Every serious outdoorsperson should be able to work out whether the moon is going to cooperate with

a night walk. Just by looking at the moon’s shape you can work out which sides of a hill will be well lit at a certain time of night, several weeks or even months away. How about if you’d like to use nature to work out whether your night vision has kicked in? Just find some red and green close to each other and if the green looks brighter than normal relative to the red, then your night vision is taking over. My



There are over a dozen different ways you can use a tree as a compass and Tristan will even use a rainbow to navigate favourite way of doing this with nature’s help is to use the green leaves and red petals of a geranium. There are over a dozen different ways you can use plants as a compass, from roots to leaves, but they are also very good at making a map of the land as well. From high ground it is very easy with practice to map out the distant dry and wet areas using trees and to assess the terrain nearer - by using grasses and flowers. But this is a finer art than many appreciate and there are clues in even the most common plants. Stinging nettles depend on phosphate-rich soil and this is a clue to human habitation of some kind. So, if you’re heading from a wild place to a town or village, then stinging nettles are a great sign you’re getting warmer. You can also map the land with the help of wildlife, like birds, small mammals and butterflies. Once you’re in a town there are a whole range of specialist clues too. You can find your way in towns using the flow of people, the road layout, roof shapes, the lichens, aircraft or even the clouds. Sundials and solar panels give a good clue to south and there are more than ten ways a church can be used to find direction. House numbers tend to go up as you head away from the centre of town.

One game I like to have fun with when leading a walk or course is to challenge people to point to something that they think I might struggle to use as sign. Sometimes it takes me a little while to find the clue, but it is usually there. It’s a game I’d encourage you to challenge yourself with on your own walks, as it will help you to see the outdoors world in a different and very helpful way. The Walker's Guide to Outdoor Clues and Signs by Tristan Gooley due out on 8th May 2014.


•

81

Not All Those Who Wander Are Lost J.R.R. Tolkien

www.bushcraftmagazine.com

Bushcraft & Survival Skills - June 2014 UK - FiLELiST

Recommend Documents