Brewery Construction Guide

Brewery Construction Guide

Materials Thirty Six 2” x 4” Lengths Lengths 4 - 70.5”, 2 - 49.75”, 2 - 26.75”, 6 - 26.5”, 6 - 24.5”, 16 - 21.5” Three .5” thick Plywood Platforms 2 - 24.5” x 24.5” for HLB and Kettle burners 1 - 24.5” x 22.25” for Propane Tank and Storage Shelf 60 - 3.5” x 1⁄4” Zinc Carriage Bolts, Nuts and Washers 34 - 2” length Zinc Lag Screws 2 Boxes - 2.5” Wood Screws, 1 Box - 1.25” Wood Screws 4 Wheels – 2.0” hard plastic and 16 1.5” Lag Screws (2 which pivot under Kettle and 2 non-pivot under HLB) 4 - 4” x 4” x 2.5” Wood Blocks to keep the frame stationary Procedures - Read all instructions before starting Purchase only dry, straight 2 x 4’s. Cut all 2 x 4 pieces to exact lengths using a table saw or chop saw. A hand-held saw won’t produce 90-degree cuts. Assemble the Front and Back sides with a 2.5” wood screw at the center of each joint. Check for square angles. Cut the two burner platforms, notch each corner for proper fit, and place into final position. Attach cross supports, as shown on the Top View, with a 2.5” wood screw. Pre-drill holes to avoid wood splits. Check for square angles. Drill all holes for Carriage Bolts and Lag Screws, Insert bolts & screws and tighten. Screw-down the two burner platforms with 1.25” wood screws. screws. Insert 2.5” screws on corners where appropriate. Be certain that the Mash Tun supports are level and that the

Brewery Construction Guide mash tun will sit evenly without rocking. Attach a 1” x 1/8” x 23.5” Steel Strip on top of each Mash Tun Support & drill strips for recessed screw heads. Wait until Step 8, “Pumps”, to attach both Pump supports (for Pump 1 and Pump 2). Wait until Step 2, “Burners and Gas Lines”, to attach the Propane Platform and support. Coat the entire frame with a clear wood sealer preservative - Install Wheels, pre-drilling the Lag Screws. Cut the 4 x 4 blocks 2.5” which is 1/8” taller than the wheels and sand the edges. Blocks to be used during use/storage.

Materials 2 “King Kooker” Propane Gas Burners, Min. 130,000 BTUs 1 Propane Gas Tank and Nozzle, Regulator and Hose attachment 1 Brass T-Joint (for 3/8” tubing) 2 Brass Valves (for 3/8” tubing) 8 Brass Flare Nuts (for 3/8” tubing) 8 Rubber or Brass O-Rings (Sized to tightly fit on 3/8” tubing) 12 or more Feet of 3/8” Copper Tubing One tube of Pipe Dope 2 Aluminum Sheets 21.5” x 21.5” 2 Steel Pizza Pans, 12” diameter and 6 short bolts with nuts Bag of 1/2” Copper Tubing Fasteners to attach Valves to Brackets 2 Small pieces of Steel to attach T Joint 6 U-Bolts 1.5”, Bag of plastic 3/8” tubing clips

Brewery Construction Guide Procedures Notch the corners of the 2 aluminum sheets to fit centered on top of the burner platforms. Attach with screws. Notch the corners of the 2 aluminum sheets to fit centered on top of the burner platforms, Attach with screws.

Plywood Brackets - As shown above, each bracket is designed with three layers of 1/2” plywood which act as a brace against shifting. Size the plywood brackets to allow the free turning of the flare nuts. The 3/8 in copper tubing will contact the 2 x 4s only along the bottom board. Construct the 3 plywood brackets - Cut and glue together. When dry, attach the 2 valve brackets to the frame, insert the valves, and secure with 1/2” copper tubing fasteners. Drill and install 3 bolts and nuts, spaced as legs, onto each pizza pan. The pans will act as a bottom heat reflector under the burners. Insert both burners and pans, centered on top of the platforms. (Caution: Align the burner gas ports with the location where the tubing will come through the platform.) Drill and secure each burner to the platform with 3 equally spaced u-bolts. Drill holes for the 3/8” tubing just outside of the burners. The system is constructed with 4 sections of copper tubing, with each section bent to fit. Measure and cut the 2 burner to valve sections. (Caution: Add approximately 1/2” to each section to compensate for the 2 flared ends.) Using the tube bender, bend each to fit. (Caution: Hold the tube carefully while bending to avoid sliding and kinking.) Insert first the flare nuts, then the o-rings and flare both ends. (Tip: By design, the flares should result in an airtight system. But I’ve found that only when o-rings and pipe dope is used will a tight seal occur.) Apply pipe dope to all areas where gas may escape (coating - flares, orings and t joint). Attach tubing to the burners and valves. Tighten the flare nuts being careful not to over-tighten which may force the o-rings over the flared ends. Cut the HLB valve to t joint tubing and prepare in the same manner. Hold the tubing in place while the t joint bracket and t joint is installed snugly against the tubing. (Caution: The tubing will not fit into place if the t joint is installed first.) Prepare and tighten flare nuts. Install the kettle burner to t joint tubing and attach it to the bottom 2 x 4 using 3/8” plastic tubing clips. This will require the removal and chiseling of a 2 x 4 for the gas line. Install the propane support (cut to accommodate the gas line) and platform. Install the propane tank and line with regulator. Test the system for leaks using soapy water and your nose. Everything should be airtight except the valves. In my experience, all valves will leak slightly. Replace if more than a minor leak. Light the burners and fully test the system. Be careful.


Materials 4 Aluminum Sheets 20.5” x 12.5 4 Aluminum Sheets 18.5” x 12.5” 12 Rivets (medium size) Procedures HLB Heat Shield: Cut four aluminum sheets, 2 – 20.5”x 12.5” and 2 – 18.5” x 12.5”, using tin snips. Tip: Mark the sheets with a felt-tip pen and straight edge for cutting. Lightly file the edges to avoid cutting yourself. Mark and cut out the 5”x5” view hole using a drill and tin snips. Mark folding lines 1.0” from each end on front and back sheets. Mark and drill 3 centered rivet holes on each end as shown above. (Total of 12) Bend the 4 ends to a 90-degree fold as shown above. Remove the 4 carriage bolts, which will secure the heat shield to the frame. Assemble the 4 sheets into postion on the frame Mark and drill the 4 holes for the carriage bolts. Bolt the back and front sheet to the frame. While all 4 sheets are aligned, mark the rivet holes on the side sheets. Remove from the frame, drill rivet holes and insert rivets. Bolt the completed heat shield to the frame. Kettle Heat Shield:

Brewery Construction Guide Exactly the same procedures. Heat Shield Performance I tested the burners before installing the heat shielding. As I suspected, the four sides of the framing 3” from the burners became quite hot. Since building the shields, all sides remain cool. The aluminum & plywood platform that the burners rest upon get only slightly warm. The aluminum sheets under the burners, added at Step 2, Burners and Gas Lines, help to insulate the platform from heat.

If you would like to eliminate the heat shielding, redesign the frame with at least 6” between the burners and frame. Six inches because when testing the burners without the shielding, I noticed that the corners of the frame, which are 6” from the frame, didn’t get hot. Or, redesign without a wood frame next to the burners. But I’d suggest keeping to my plan because six inches on all sides would create an over-large system and the frame acts as a protective barrier to wind and the burner’s heat.

Materials 3 “Sanke” Kegs - with handles & cylindrical sides, 23”x15.5”, capacity 15.5 gal 6 Stainless Steel Couplings, 1/2”ID Several Stainless Steel Welding Rods (#304) for the welder to use on couplings --- Available from Welding Supply stores 1 Mash Screen, Model: “Keg folding on legs”, approximately $75 --- Available from: Precision Brewing Systems, 718 667-4459

Brewery Construction Guide 1 Stainless Steel Folding Vegetable Steamer 3 Pot lids, Stainless Steel is best. But I've used Aluminum and have had no problems. Procedures Obtain three 15.5 gallon “Sanke” style kegs as shown above. They are available through Brewer's Warehouse, Pico and Sabco. Cut 12” centered holes into the top of each with a Sawz-All (Carbide blade). Be precise on the hole size. The 13” pizza pan lids fit onto 12” holes. File the openings to remove sharp edges. Determine the proper location for the couplings as shown above. Warning: The coupling cutout holes on the sides of each keg should be close but not cut into the existing welds. To do so would weaken the keg and risk leaks. Cut coupling holes the same diameter as the coupling so that it may be inserted 1/8” to 1/4” into the keg. Your welder may prefer that the holes be the cut to 1/2”, the coupling interior diameter, so that he may weld the coupling directly to the outside of the keg. Caution: If any of the weld material drips into the keg, it may obstruct usage of the interior coupling threads. Also, If the welder uses a threaded pipe to hold the coupling during welding, it must be of a material that will not accidentally weld to the coupling. TIG weld the couplings with stainless steel (grade # 403) rods. Other metal/grades may be toxic. Place the kegs, now called the HLB, mash tun and kettle, into position. Build or purchase a primary mash screen. If a mash screen is purchased from Precision Brewing Systems, reverse the handle and legs so that the hinge will be on the bottom. I discovered that with the hinge on the top, the screen will shift down during the mash-in process thereby allowing grain to pass through and jam the pump. Additionally, reinforce the hinge with 12 small stainless steel nuts & bolts. The heat may warp it and form an opening. Purchase a secondary mash screen. It will stop any grain that happened to pass the primary screen.


Materials 1 Copper Tubing 1.5” x 13.5” 2 Copper Tubing .5” x 1” 1 Copper T Joint 1.5” x .5” x 1.5” 1 Copper Reducer 1.5” x .5” Silver Solder (Lead free) Silver Solder Paste Steel Wool 1 Steel Hot Water Heater Element Converter (Screw-in to Bolt-on) 1 Hot Water Heater Element 12” or 13” long (Screw-in style, 240volts, 4500watts) 2 Straps for 1.5” Tubing (Copper or Steel)

Procedures Cut the 1.5” diameter copper tubing to 13.5” in length. File edges of this tube and all to follow. Cut off 0.5” of the top end of the t joint. (Caution: Must be a 90-degree cut so that the element fits in evenly.) Alternative: Don’t use the t joint and drill/solder .5” copper tubing into the side of an extra long 1.5” tube. Apply soldering paste to the bottom edge of the converter and place top-down onto a table. Connect the 1.5” tubing to the bottom end of the t joint and apply paste to the top of the t joint.

Brewery Construction Guide Connect the top (cut end) of the t joint to the bottom edge of the converter. The converter should now be on the table with the t joint & 1.5” tubing connected above. Line-up the converter to the t joint / tubing so that element will be able to fit into the center of the tubing. Caution: The element must not touch the sides of the copper tubing when screwed into the converter.

Solder the converter to the t joint. Paste and solder the t joint to the tubing. Paste and solder the copper reducer to the bottom of the tubing. Paste and solder the two .5” x 1.5” copper tubes to the reducer (entrance) and t joint (exit) of the chamber. Attach the chamber loosely to the wood frame using straps and wood screws. You may need to turn the chamber later when attaching to the copper plumbing lines in Step 9. Screw the element into the chamber.

Immersion Method The immersion method chills the boiled wort by recirculating cold water through the following path: Cold water in mash tun to pump 1 to copper plumbing to immersion chiller (shownabove) back to mash tun

Brewery Construction Guide The temperature of the wort in the kettle drops while the temperature of the water increases. My brewery utilizes the immersion chiller system. It will chill 6 gallons of 212-degree wort to 75 in 40 minutes. Materials 50 Feet of 3/8”OD Flexible Copper Tubing Several feet of 3/8”OD (1/4”ID) Solid Copper Tubing (OPTIONAL) 5 Copper Elbows for 3/8” Solid Copper Tubing (OPTIONAL) Copper Wire for binding, 1/2" to 3/8"OD Reducer Clamps, Surgical Tubing, and Hose Connectors (To attach to Supply & Return)

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Procedures Note: The 50-foot coil of flexible tubing is necessary when 10-gallon brews will be chilled. Otherwise, a 25-foot coil, which will reach up to the middle of the kettle, is adequate to cool 5-gallon brews.

Step 1 - Wrap the coil of flexible tubing around a 5 gallon soda keg or 9.0 ” cylindrical object. Leave enough tube on the ends to extend to the supply and return connections. Step 2 - Bend the tube at the top out toward the cooling water supply connection. Bend the tube at the bottom up to the top and then out to the cooling water return connection. OR: Construct the same tubing for supply and return, except use solid tubing and elbows as shown above. This size copper tubing is available only at plumbing supply stores for contractors, not hardware stores. Note: Solid tubing will require that some soldered fittings come into contact with the brew. Reportedly, when solder contacts hot brew, it may result in chill haze in the finished beer. My system utilizes soldered fittings on the chiller with no perceptible result in chill haze. Your choice. Step 3 - Support the sides of the chiller with straight lengths of flexible or solid tubing. Leave at least a 1” gap between each loop of the chiller. Bind the straight tubes to the chiller with pure copper wire (home electrical copper wire). If solder in the kettle is acceptable, solder some or all of the twisted ends where copper wire has been used. It will add strength to the chiller and reduce the chance of the wire becoming undone. Assemble the connections to the water supply and return as shown above. Use short pieces of braided rubber tubing at the end of the 3/8” copper tubing. Braided tube adds flexibility and will allow easier connection. The plastic or metal hose connectors screw together for quick removal.

Brewery Construction Guide Wait until Step 9, Plumbing, to construct the 1/2” chiller water supply and return tubing.

Counterflow Method The counterflow method chills the boiled wort by recirculating cold water through the following path: Cold water in mash tun to pump 1 to outer copper tubing in counterflow back to mash tun. While the hot wort follows this path: Boiled wort in kettle to inner copper tubing in counterflow (by gravity) to end of tubing and into a bucket. The temperature of the 212-degree wort is instantly reduced to approximately 75 when it exits the system.

Wort may be chilled as quickly as gravity and tubing will allow. Pumping water through the inner tubing with an additional pump (pump 2) after it has been brushed may clean the system. Brushing to remove cold break material is done after the unfastening of the clamped flexible copper tubing. Even though this system has not been constructed, I am convinced that it will work well. The design took into account existing counterflow technology in which the hot wort and cold water flow in opposite directions for at least 15 feet. Most commercially available systems chill with tap water at normal flow rates. My system utilizes a pump for rapid flow over 18 feet using cold water from the mash tun. The water in the mash tun may also

Brewery Construction Guide be loaded with ice for improved chilling capacity. The combination of rapid flow, optional addition of ice, and unique & cleanable design, should result in an efficient and easy-tomaintain chiller.

Materials Special Equipment 18 Feet of 3/8”OD (1/4”ID) Solid Copper Tubing Copper Tube Bender (3/8”) 20 Feet of 1/2”OD Solid Copper Tubing 2 Feet of 3/8”OD Flexible Copper Tubing 10 1/2” Copper T Joint 8 1/2” Copper End Caps 2 1/2” Compression to 1/2” Sweat with Nuts 3 1/2” Full Port Ball Valves (sweat) 1 1/2” to 3/8” Copper Reducer 1 3/8” Copper T Joint Several 1/2” Copper Elbows 1 1/2” Sweat to 1/2” NPT (to attach the Temperature Gauge) 1 Temperature Gauge, like model# 2A608, but with a short stem, 1/2”NPT, Grainger’s, www.grainger.com 2 Rubber Washers (no center hole) 2 Pieces of Stainless Steel (for inside of compression nuts) 4 pieces of Hose with 4 to 8 Hose Clamps

Procedures None established. This design has not been built.


Materials 2 Little Giant Pumps, Model # 2P579 ($89.25 each from Grainger’s)( www.grainger.com)

Grainger’s sells only to businesses that have an account with them. Individuals can’t purchase from them. Ask a local business to purchase the pump(s) for you. 2 Pump Supports, (See step 1, Frame) 4 Hex Bolts (to attach pumps)

Procedures Pump 1recirculates the mash. Moves the runoff to the kettle. If either the counterflow or immersion chiller is installed, it moves cold water from the mash tun through the copper tubing to the chiller. Pump 1 must be installed.

Pump 2 has one purpose only. It forces clean, hot water from the kettle through the counterflow heat exchanger to clean the system. Therefore, it is necessary only when the counterflow system is installed. Attach both pumps with 2” x 4” supports.

Brewery Construction Guide Note: Review Step 9, Plumbing, before installing the pumps. They must be located so that complete drainage will occur. Trapped water will freeze in the winter and burst the copper tubing. Also - Keep in mind that the exit tube from pump 1 must be located above the drain valve; and the exit tube from pump 2 must be located above the top of the counterflow heat exchanger.

Drill holes through the supports for the retaining bolts. Two bolts for each pump. Install the pumps with the oil holes on top. Pumps must be oiled with 2 to 3 drops of SAE 20 every 6 months.


Materials Type T Thermocouple (4” x 1/8”) – Omega, model: TJ36-CPSS-18G-4, $28, 800 8484286, www.omega.com 3 Temperature Gauges – Grainger model: 2A608, Dial style with 4.0” probe, $45.60, www.grainger.com (bus accnt) Copper tubing and fittings (1/2”, 3/8”), Hoses and Clamps, Ball Valves for Chiller systems, Miscellaneous hardware

Procedures Follow the diagram above for the particular chiller system to be installed. Install the 3 temp gauges using Teflon tape. Install the thermocouple as shown above. Use a rubber washer with a center hole much smaller than the thickness of the probe. A tight fit will stop the mash from leaking. The probe must be long enough to contact the flow of mash. Plan the plumbing so that mash fluid will not be trapped in the section of tubing before the chiller ball valve (#2). This will avoid mash in the chiller lines. Plan the plumbing path so that all liquid may be drained after use of the brewery. Note that hose is not reliable in areas subject to heat. Copper is more durable and lasts longer.


Materials Electrical Boxes and cover plates 2 or 3 – Home Electrical Wall Switches 2 - 3-Way Switches 1 – Home GFI Electrical Outlet 12-3 Gauge SJ (Soft Jacket) Wire for electrical connections Panel constructed from 2”x4” wood Controller – Omega, model: CN8592-DC1-DC2, $150, 800 848-4286, www.omega.com Solid State Relay (25-amp capacity) – Omega, model: SSR240DC25, $29 Finned Heat Sink – Omega, model: FHS-2, $17 Fast Blow Fuse – Optional read below, Omega, model: KAX-25, $10 Fuse Box – Optional read below, Omega, model: FB-1, $7 Electrical Cord and 3 prong Plug for the end. Rated for 120 volts. Miscellaneous hardware for electrical connections Procedures Construct a frame from 2x4’s to support a control panel and attach as shown above. Attach the boxes for the switches, controller and outlet to the panel. Attach the solid state relay on top of the heat sink and attach to the backside of the panel frame. My system utilizes a home 15-amp breaker circuit. But the representatives at Omega Electronics recommend the use of a Fast Blow Fuse and Box to protect the controller system. I’ve used my brewery several times without problems. If you are concerned about

Brewery Construction Guide the reliability of your home breakers/fuses, install the fast blow fuse and box. Wire the switches, controller, outlet, SS relay, thermocouple, element, pump(s) and plug-in cord in accordance with the electrical plan. See section 11, Electrical Plan. Attach cover plates. How the Recirculating Infusion Mash System works When switched on, the controller display will flash system configuration information for a few seconds and will then show the current temperature. It will be in output mode and will power the heating element when the temperature falls below the setpoint. The controller determines current temperature through the thermocouple and then switches on the solid state relay, which sends power to the element keeping the mash within 1⁄2 degree of the setpoint. Pump 1 must be on whenever the heating element is on. As a safety feature to avoid burning the mash, the system is wired so that the heater will be powered only when both the controller output 1 indicator and pump 1 is on.

A complete description of the proper use of the RIMS is in the last section, “Brewing, Step by step guide”.

Brewery Construction Guide Materials & Procedures See section 10, RIMS, for materials & procedures

Main Power Switch – Home-style wall switch. It controls power (on/off) to the entire system, including the GFI outlet. GFI Outlet – Ground Fault Interrupter outlet. When this type of outlet detects a ground fault, which may be you being electrocuted, it shuts down power to the outlet. And with this electrical plan, the rest of the system shuts down too. It is useful for additional equipment such as a spotlight to view the dark interior of the mash tun. Controller – The Omega temperature/process controller used to control the RIMS system. When first powered, it goes into heating output mode for mash temperature control. It must be put into “Standby” mode when the heater is not needed. Otherwise, you will heat the chiller water when it moves through the heating chamber. Thermocouple – The t-type thermocouple used by the controller to determine mash temperature. See 9, Plumbing. Solid State Relay – The relay powers the heating element when the controller switches it on. The relay should handle a capacity of at least 15 amps, My brewery has a 25-amp relay. Finned Heat Sink – The heat generated by the relay is absorbed by the heat sink. Attach the relay to the heat sink and attach the heat sink to the back of the panel’s wood frame. Automatic or Manual Control Switch - In the event that the Controller has stopped operating, switch to Manual Control and operate the heater manually. Automatic control is more precise and easier. Use manual control only as a back-up in the event of Controller failure. (3-way switch) Manual ON or Manual OFF Switch - As noted above, manually control the heater when the Auto/Manual switch is in the manual position. (3-way switch) (My Controller has faulted a few times, so I'd intall these switches as a back-up.) Pump Switch(es) and Pump(s) – Home style wall switches. Pump 1 switch is needed to move the mash fluid, runoff and chiller cold water. Pump 2 switch is needed to move hot water from the kettle through the counterflow chiller for cleaning (if the counterflow is installed). See section 8, Pumps. Heating Element – A screw-in style hot water heater element. A 240 volt, 4500 watt element operated at 120 volts. It is screwed into a flange that was designed to convert the screw-in to a bolt on. The flange is soldered on the top of the copper heating chamber tubing. See section 5, Heating Chamber. Cord and Plug – A three wire electrical cord and plug long enough to reach an outlet. Rated to handle 120 volts.


Brewery Construction Guide Brewing Step-by-step guide on brewing beer with the brewery. Prepare Recipe Plan Calculate recipe ingredients for the amount of the batch plus the amount of Cold Break expected. Example: Recipe Amount (5.5 gal) = Desired Batch (5.0 gal) plus Expected Cold Break (0.5 gal) Cold Break – The spent hops, coagulated protiens, and other material left at the bottom of the Kettle after the boil and chilling has finished and the clear fluids have been removed. My brewery design leaves 1⁄2 gallon of cold break. If a yeast starter is to be used, prepare it a sufficient amount of time prior to brewing so that it is fermenting. Day Before Brewing (or just before starting brewing) Prepare Treated Water in the HLB Fill the HLB with an amount of water equaling the batch amount plus 5 gallons. The additional water will be used for Kettle evaporation and cleaning the system after brewing. Aerate the water while filling the HLB to reduce Chlorine content. Adjust the water's temperature to 65F and test pH. The optimal range for pH is 5.2 - 5.6. The pH will most likely be too high. Lager Beers - to lower pH, add 0.5 tsp of Lactic Acid or Calcium Chloride Ale Beers - to lower pH, add 0.5 tsp of Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) All Beers - to RAISE pH, add 0.5 tsp of Calcium Carbonate Stir the water thoroughly and retest pH. If necessary, adjust and retest until pH is in the optimal range. Cover the HLB and let it sit until the next day (start of brewing). Day of Brewing Prepare the Water in the Mash Tun Add untreated water to the Mash Tun up to just above the Primary Mash Screen. Don't use the treated water from the HLB. Malt grains naturally lower the water's pH. This amount of water is called Foundation Water. Next, add an extra 0.33 to 0.50 gallons of untreated water to the Mash Tun for every pound of grain to be mashed. Start the Controller and Pump (mash return valves fully open) and electrically heat Mash water to Strike Temperature. Strike temp is 6 to 12 degrees above the initial Mash Temperature. When malt grain is added to the heated water, it will lower the temperature to the desired initial Mash Temperature. Verify that the controller's Setpoint is set to the desired Strike Temperature.

Brewery Construction Guide The Controller will activate the Heating Element until Setpoint temp is reached - then hold at that temp. - while the water in the Mash Tun is heating: Mill the Grain Mill all malt and other grains which require mashing and store in a bucket. - when the mash water has reached Strike temp: Mash-in the Grains Stop the pump (the heater will not be activated when the pump is off). Slowly sprinkle the grain onto the water in the mash tun. Using a long, flat and knife-like utensil, throughly cut-in the grain to the water. This is called the Mash-in or Infusion Mash. The purpose of cutting-in the grains is to assure that none of it is clumped into balls. Grain that is clumped remains dry and will not convert to malt sugar during the mashing stage. Turn on the pump with valves CLOSED. VERY SLOWLY open the mash return valve until the mash just starts to flow. (If mash is started too quickly, it will get stuck and won't flow.) After a few minutes of successful flow, keep opening the valve a little every minute or so until no more than 1/2 open. Be certain that the mash is not splashing in the Mash Tun, this will cause Hot Side Aeration (bad taste). The mash return flow must be smooth and without aerating ripples on the surface of the water. Mashing If the recipe calls for a Stepped Infusion Mash: Set the controller setpoint to the beginning (first) mash temperature. (Rest) The controller should indicate that the mash has stabilized at the anticipated first mash temperature. After a few minutes, test the mash water pH. A range of 5.2 to 5.6 is required for optimal enzyme activity. Most likely, the pH will be above the range of 5.2 to 5.6. Adjust the pH the same way as the HLB water. Cover and allow the mash to recirculate at this temperature for the time required by the recipe. If the system is working properly, cloudy mash will soon become clear as it is filtered through the grain bed. Re-set the controller setpoint to each new higher temperature, and hold for the required time. (Steps) The last step is called the conversion rest, 151-155 degrees (F) at which all starch will be converted to sugar.

Brewery Construction Guide Test for complete starch to sugar conversion as follows: Add a drop of Tincture of Iodine to a white dish. Place a drop of mash liquid next to it and view where the two drops meet. If the result is dark blue/black, conversion is not complete - continue mash at last temperature. If the result is no color change, conversion is complete. The mash is finished. (Iodine sample is poison -throw out) If the recipe calls for a Single Infusion Mash: Use the same procedure as a stepped mash, except mash the entire time at the conversion temperature, 151-155. Then test for conversion. Mash Out When the mash been converted into fermentable sugars: Reset the controller setpoint to 170F. Once the the temp reaches 170F, let mash rest at 170 for 10 minutes. This is called the Mash out. - at the same time mash out starts: Start the HLB burner and heat water to Runoff Temperature. (MashOut and Runoff temperature is set sufficiently above all Mash temps in order to stop the enzymatic activity of Mashing and decrease the viscosity of the mash for better rinsing of sugars.) Turn on the HLB burner, heat to 170 degrees (F), and hold until water is needed during the runoff. - when mash out has finished: Runoff Remove the cover from the mash tun. (Remember not to splash or aerate the hot liquid.) With pump 1 still on, slowly open the HLB valve, open the Kettle valve and close the Mash valve. Adjust the valves so that the flow of water from the HLB into the mash tun just matches the flow exiting the mash tun and into the kettle. The liquid in the mash tun should remain between 1 and 2 inches above the grain. Move the mash runoff into the kettle as slowly as possible. This will maximize sugar extraction from the grain. Turn on the kettle burner during the runoff to get the liquid to a boil as soon as possible after the kettle is filled. Stop the runoff when the Recipe Amount of mash liquid has been transferred to the kettle. (Recipe Amount (in gal) = Desired Batch (in gal) plus Expected Cold Break (my system has 0.5 gal)

Brewery Construction Guide Warning – Running-off more fluid than is needed may risk that undesirable parts of the grain will be extracted. Turn off pump 1 and close the valves. Boil Bring the kettle to a rolling boil and leave uncovered. Boil for the time required by the recipe. Usually 60 - 90 minutes. Add adjunct ingredients such as rice syrup solids or malt and special extracts. Stir the kettle bottom to dissolve any solids. Then stir periodically. During the boil, dispose of spent mash grains and thoroughly clean the mash tun. Add the bittering hops at the time specified by the recipe. Add the aroma (finishing) hops at the time specified by the recipe Add 1 teaspoon (per 5 gallons of brew) of Irish Moss 15 minutes before end of boil. It settles undesirable solids. If cooling with an immersion chiller: Place immersion chiller into the kettle 10 minutes before the end of the boil. When boiling time has ended, turn off kettle burner. Replace water evaporated from the kettle to Recipe Amount with the HLB treated water supply. Just before the boiling time has ended: Prepare Immersion Chiller or Counterflow Heat Exchanger Fill the mash tun at least half full with cool tap water (not the treated HLB water). Adjust the valves so that the water will recirculate in the following path: From the mash tun, through the pump, chiller tubing, Immersion or Counterflow chiller and back to the mash tun. Operate the chiller or counterflow with the kettle covered to avoid bacterial infection. Replace chiller water in the mash tun when temperature rises to within 50 degrees of the kettle. As the kettle fluid cools and the mash tun warms within 50 degrees, add ice to the mash tun to increase cooling speed. When the entire batch of brew has been reduced to 75 degrees (F), disconnect and remove the chiller. Stir the brew rapidly to form a whirlpool to collect the cold break material into the center of the kettle. Wait 10 to 15 minutes for the whirlpool to stop. Keep kettle covered. Open the Kettle valve and pour the brew into a clean bucket leaving the break material behind. Primary Fermenter Add the liquid yeast starter, ready-pitch yeast (or dry yeast) to the primary fermenter. Thoroughly aerate the chilled brew when pouring into the primary fermenter. Cover the fermenter with plastic sheeting and bind with elastics. Ferment in accordance with the style of beer to be made.

Brewery Construction Guide Clean the System Use the remaining water from the HLB to clean the system by pumping through all tubing. Be certain to clean the HLB, mash tun and kettle periodically with a solution of chlorinated sanitizer approved for beer equipment and hot water and rinse well. All copper and plastic/rubber tubing must be flushed with the solution and rinsed with hot water. Bacteria will grow on the sticky mash residue and will infect your next batch. Water remaining in the brewery plumbing during the winter will freeze and burst the tubing. But if the system has been constructed to encourage drainage, this shouldn’t be a problem. Drain as much water from the system as possible. BREWERY MAINTENANCE The temperature controller must be stored in a cool and dry place to protect its electronics. Read the manual for ideal storage environment. The pumps must be oiled with 2 to 3 drops of SAE 20 oil every 6 months. Check the pump manual for proper procedures. Enjoy your brewery!

Brewery Construction Guide

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