The Breguet Collections 2012-2013
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Contents Passion finds its echo A passion for invention and innovation A passion shared Passion from the age of reason Tradition Classique Classique Grandes Complications Marine Héritage Reine de Naples High Jewellery Type XX - XXI Type XXII A dictionary of passion
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A word from Marc A. Hayek
Breguet evokes a genuine fascination through its capacity for innovation. Its inventions have left an indelible imprint on
watchmaking history and the developments currently being achieved within the Manufacture make Breguet an undeniable reference in its field. This philosophy is entirely in tune with my vision of fine watchmaking: its ability to push the boundaries of horological construction, blending aesthetics with mechanical constraints, makes it a full-fledged art in its own right.
Breguet is not only a brand embodying watchmaking excellence, but also a part of our cultural heritage, brimming with history
and emotions. The timepieces emerging from the Manufacture Breguet are works of art rendered unique by the artisans’ hand, and endowed with genuine soul. Technology dedicated to serving Art is our watchword, and creating technical masterpieces is our daily challenge. A mere stylistic exercise? Far from it: our technical accomplishments are intended to provide tangible improvements to the performances of the watch, its precision and its daily use, the sole purpose being to satisfy the person who has acquired it.
From the start, Breguet had woven close ties with science and astronomy, placing the brand at the heart of European intel-
lectual development. My grandfather and I have made a priority of Research & Development. Today more than ever, engineers and watchmakers play a pioneering role, working notably on fields such as magnetism, high frequency and the properties of new materials – like silicon and Liquidmetal ® – resulting in major breakthroughs for the entire watch industry. Breguet takes pride in offering exceptional models.
It is this singular alchemist’s blend of hand-craftsmanship expertise and cutting-edge technologies that I invite you to explore
through our collections.
Marc A. Hayek President and CEO of Montres Breguet SA
5 // P A S S I O N F I N D S I T S E C H O
Breguet, from rebirth to continuity.
In 1999, Nicolas G. Hayek took over one of the most pre-
Recruitment of the best-qualified watchmakers was reinforced, as
cious names in fine watchmaking which was lying somewhat
was training and the passing on of time-honoured skills by artisans
dormant at the time. Driven by a genuine passion, he infused
excelling in their respective arts and crafts.
peerless vitality into a brand endowed with an exceptional herit-
age and know-how that are recognised by its most prestigious
of-the-art testing machinery as well as in research and
peers. But the creative and visionary genius that was Nicolas
development. Nicolas G. Hayek attached great importance to
G. Hayek also revived the cultural and emotional dimension of
research and initiated work on whole new movement projects
the brand and restored it to its noble pedigree.
and new materials such as the application of silicon in watchmak-
A new chapter in Breguet history began, studded with fab-
ing, for components like the escapement. Under his leadership,
ulous projects, daring challenges and guided by the principel
Breguet developed and registered more than 77 new patents, and
of unveiling the finest treasures that emerge from an encounter
also built a new movement each year, several of which were
between art, beauty and technology.
truly revolutionary, such as the double tourbillon. This innova-
Now able to draw upon the industrial and commercial
tive capacity made Breguet a reference in the field of Haute
strength of the Swatch Group, the brand had all the material and
Horlogerie, alongside its unique status as an integral part of the
technical resources it would need to perpetuate the art of fine
European cultural heritage.
watchmaking and to create exceptional models in order to meet
the expectations of brand devotees and connoisseurs.
museums to welcome the brand’s legendary timepieces. These
Signs of renewal soon appeared. The brand was first of all
initiatives were of course fervently supported by Breguet.
equipped with a manufacturing facility on par with its ambitions.
Exhibitions in the Hermitage in St. Petersburg, or in the Louvre
Substantial and regular investments were made in state-
It is this unique position that inspired the most prestigious
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in Paris, are just two of these exceptional events that have delighted connoisseurs and aficionados, as well as Nicolas G. Hayek, who loved to view culture as synonymous with sharing. This same desire also led the Manufacture Breguet to take up magnificent challenges, including that of reproducing the legendary Marie-Antoinette watch that had vanished without trace.
This challenge was all the more daring in that the Breguet
master-watchmakers and engineers had only a handful of archives and technical descriptions, and had to make use of the techniques prevailing at the time of its making.
This love of art and beauty led Nicolas G. Hayek toward
the principle of preserving humanity’s historical and cultural heritage well beyond the watchmaking world through various prestigious patronage activities with a powerful emotional con-
tent. The most iconic of all, to mention but one, is undoubtedly
and exceptional achievements that Nicolas G. Hayek loved to
the restoration of the Petit Trianon, an authentic tribute paid by
share. Following his untimely death on June 28th 2010, Marc
Breguet to Queen Marie-Antoinette, a sincere admirer and loyal
A. Hayek has taken up the reins of the brand. The spirit remains
customer of the brand.
and the story continues…
It was this universe mingling art, culture, understatement
7 // P A S S I O N F I N D S I T S E C H O
Breguet within the Swatch Group. uphold the prestige of its name, ensure the exclusiveness of its products and make them available in selected shops.
Not only has the Breguet company seen its turnover grow
dramatically since it joined the Group, even if its output of watches has remained limited, but its international distribution now benefits from much increased energy and improved effi
Since its acquisition by the Swatch Group in September
ciency. Breguet has established its essential role in the luxury-
1999, the Breguet company has enjoyed the substantial sup-
watch sector by opening its own prestigious boutiques in the
port of the world’s largest watch manufacturer. The company
world’s major destinations, including Geneva, Zurich, Gstaad,
has harnessed the Group’s resources in product development,
Paris, Cannes, London, Milan, Vienna, Moscow, Ekaterinburg,
manufacturing, marketing and distribution to bring Breguet
New York, Los Angeles, Las Vegas, Miami, Dubai, Abu Dhabi,
watchmaking to demanding and sophisticated clients.
Singapore, Shanghai, Beijing, Ningbo, Hong Kong, Macao,
Taipei, Tokyo and Seoul.
The Group is committed to preserving the company’s
watchmaking traditions. Breguet, like the Group’s other com
panies, maintains its separate identity and will continue to
ments have been allocated to the expansion of the Breguet
Manufacturing has received equal attention. Large invest-
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workshops to provide them with modern manufacturing systems and the latest tools. The recruitment of highly qualified master watchmakers will help Breguet meet the growing demand for its watches.
Creation, that reliable yardstick of a brand’s vigour,
remains a priority. Breguet’s watchmakers are hard at work conceiving and building novel designs that interpret the brand’s styling heritage in original ways as well as devising original mechanisms for the Breguet time pieces of tomorrow. Today more than ever, Breguet thus upholds its reputation as the supplier of timepieces to people with discriminating tastes and an eye for the exceptional.
The watches presented in this catalogue express Breguet’s
vision of a future where its legacy provides for the development of tomorrow’s technologies.
The Breguet Boutique in Gstaad, Switzerland.
9 // P A S S I O N F I N D S I T S E C H O
Watchmaking at Breguet.
Breguet’s archives, kept in Switzerland and in Paris,
techniques. The constant modernisation of their equipment
record the developments that have sustained Breguet watch-
reveals the motivation of the craftsmen who build the Breguet
making for more than two centuries. The firm is committed
watch : pride in their work.
to remaining ahead of its time with a flow of inventions and
improvements.
brought to his art, craftsmen work daily to perfect the time-
pieces that earn Breguet its position as the architect of fine
Today Breguet watches are made in the Vallée de Joux,
Driven by the same enthusiasm that A.- L. Breguet
the centre of advanced mechanical horology. The Breguet work
horology.
shops bring together extraordinary resources to handle the
essential aspects of watchmaking. The concentration of special-
man and machine live in harmony. Like musicians in an orches-
ised knowledge and technology covers movement construction,
tra, Breguet’s watchmakers tune their instruments to the fre-
parts manufacture and watch assembly to ensure an authentic
quencies and themes A.-L. Breguet composed centuries ago.
product of supreme quality.
Equipped with watchmaking tools that A.- L. Breguet could
measuring apparatus, the men and women who build Breguet
scarcely imagine, his successors in the Breguet workshops
watches still depend on the traditional tools that can only
combine avant-garde processes with closely guarded traditional
come to life in the practiced hands of a craftsman. And watch-
Their workshops provide the technical environment where
Although equipped with the latest optical aids and
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makers still keep their old bow-lathes in the bottom drawer of their workbenches, hoping they’ll find a pivot that needs an expert’s attention.
Watch production is divided into a dozen very different
workshops. In one, massive presses exert tremendous forces to cut tiny metal components. In another, removed as far as possible from all sources of vibration, numerically controlled transfer machines mill complex shapes in metal to tolerances of a few microns. Concentration is palpable in the dust-free atmosphere of the assembly and casing-up workshops.
The silence is intensified by the faint hiss of a burner or
the whisper of a file as a watchmaker works some play into a too-precise component.
Manufacture Breguet at L’Orient, Vallée de Joux, Switzerland.
11 // P A S S I O N F I N D S I T S E C H O
All of the hundreds of operations that go into the orchestration of a Breguet watch need deft hands, experienced eyes and an ear for the melody of time. Manufacture Breguet’s unrivaled combination of horological tradition and sophisticated technology generates impeccable beauty and quality in time.
The nature of their work allows craftsmen to leave their individual imprint – in the gleam of a chamfered edge, the pattern of circular graining or in the delicacy of engine-turning. Each feature expresses the quiet pride of expertise in superior performance. In a magnified world, tiny components are progressively made true, and their surfaces finished for unforgiving inspection, before they are combined into the mechanism of astounding complexity that gives a Breguet watch its life.
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Breguet watchmakers regard exactitude as the sacred duty of their art. Behind individual methods lies a common commitment to achieving the highest standard of workmanship through constant refinement. Applying techniques that pre-date machines, they work quickly and precisely to create instruments in harmony with the most demanding score of all, the silent music of time. Breguet’s approach to watchmaking preserves the individuality of each watch in a world of standard products. A.- L. Breguet never made two watches exactly alike, and there is no reason for the firm that he founded to break from that tradition. Besides, collectors of Breguet watches would never allow it.
Artistic craft or the art of craftsmanship, the know-how of the artisans – such as the guilloché-work or engine-turning specialists pictured here – in the Manufacture Breguet remains one of the brand’s key assets.
13 // P A S S I O N F I N D S I T S E C H O
The Marie-Antoinette “Grande Complication” pocket watch number 1160.
Said to have been fascinated by Breguet’s watches,
museum in Jerusalem and finally recovered in December 2007,
Marie-Antoinette acquired over the years a number of his time-
this undisputed masterpiece of horology experienced a fate so
pieces, notably a perpétuelle fitted with a self-winding device.
mysterious and bizarre that it became something of an obsession.
In 1783, a mysterious admirer of hers ordered from Breguet, as
In 2004, Nicolas G. Hayek challenged Breguet’s watchmakers to
a gift for the Queen, a watch that was to be as spectacular as
build an exact replica of this breathtaking pocket watch.
possible, incorporating the fullest range of horological expertise
known at the time. The order stipulated that wherever possible
of ancient documents proved a real challenge for the firm’s
gold should replace other metals and that auxiliary mecha-
technicians and watchmakers. The original technical drawings
nisms, i.e. complications, should be as numerous and varied
in the Breguet Museum archives and the material available in
as possible. No time or financial limits were imposed.
such rich sources of cultural information as the Musée des Arts
Recreating so many complications solely with the help
Long a purveyor to the French court, Breguet thus had a
et Métiers, both in Paris, provided the only available informa-
free hand. Alas, the Queen never got to admire her present, watch
tion and guidance regarding the watch’s every function and
number 160, known as the “Marie-Antoinette” in her honor. It
styling detail. Comparing the projected watch with contem-
was only finished in 1827, 34 years after her death, 4 years after
porary timepieces, in particularly the Duc de Praslin’s watch,
Breguet’s and 44 years after he’d accepted the order.
revealed novel aspects of the design and workshop techniques
For two centuries now, both this timepiece’s extreme
of the period. The research uncovered skills which had partly
intricacy and its fabulous destiny have fascinated watchmakers
disappeared, enabling Breguet to produce a timepiece faithful
and haunted the imagination of collectors. Stolen in 1983 from a
in every way to its fabled ancestor.
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15 // P A S S I O N F I N D S I T S E C H O
A work of art in its own right, the new Marie-Antoinette
to its special escapement with natural lift, a cylindrical balance
perpétuelle, or self-winding, watch features a minute repeater
spring in gold and a bimetallic balance. A double pare-chute
that on command strikes hours, quarters and minutes as well
shock-protection device protects the balance-wheel staff and the
as a full perpetual calendar showing the date, the day and the
oscillating weight arbors against blows and jarring.
month at two, six and eight o’clock respectively. At ten o’clock,
In April 2008, after four long years of research and
an equation-of-time display expresses the difference between
reconstruction, the new Marie-Antoinette timepiece was proud-
civil and solar time. At centre, jumping hours and a minute hand
ly placed in its impressive presentation case, carved from the
accompany a large independent seconds hand, the forerunner to
wood of the very Versailles oak tree under which the Queen
the chronograph hand, while a subdial for the running seconds is
once used to rest.
situated at six o’clock. A 48-hour power-reserve indicator and a bimetallic thermometer are positioned side by side. The watch’s self-winding movement ( called perpétuelle in Breguet’s day ) comprises 823 parts and components, all finished with exceptional care. Plates, bridges and bars, every moving part of the motion-work, calendar and repeater mechanisms are made of wood-polished pink gold. Screws are of blued and polished steel. All friction points, sinks and bearings are fitted with sapphires. The watch’s sophisticated design extends
Following a long dry spell and a violent storm, the Domaine de Versailles had to have the once-mighty oak cut down, presenting its wood to Nicolas G. Hayek as a birthday gift.
17 // A P A S S I O N F O R I N V E N T I O N A N D I N N O V A T I O N
Pivotal inventions from 1775 to the present. If Breguet holds a special place in our cultural heritage,
workshops demonstrated the latest horological improvements in
it is because its founder, A.- L. Breguet (1747-1823 ), set the
an original movement, mostly fitted with lever or ruby-cylinder
standard by which all fine watchmaking has since been judged.
escapements that he perfected.
Today, his heirs at Breguet still make each watch as a model of supreme horological art.
A.-L. Breguet took refuge in Switzerland from the excesses of the French Revolution. He returned to Paris overflowing with
A.- L. Breguet was born in Neuchâtel, but it was in Paris that
the ideas that produced the Breguet balance spring, his first
he spent most of his productive life. No aspect of watchmaking
carriage clock (sold to Bonaparte), the sympathique clock and
escaped his study, and his inventions were as fundamental to
its dependent watch, the tact watch, and finally the tourbillon,
horology as they were varied. His career started with a series of
patented in 1801.
breakthroughs : the development of the successful self-winding
Breguet became the indispensable watchmaker to the
perpétuelle watches, the introduction of gongs for repeating
scientific, military, financial and diplomatic élites of the age.
watches and the first shock-protection for balance pivots.
His timepieces ruled the courts of Europe. For his most distin-
Louis XVI and his Queen, Marie-Antoinette, were early
guished clients, Breguet designed his most remarkable pieces,
enthusiasts of Breguet’s watchmaking. Each watch from his
such as the first ever wristwatch for Caroline Murat, Queen of
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Naples, in 1810. Honors saluted his enormous contribution to horology. Appointed to the Board of Longitude and as chronometer-maker to the French navy, he entered the Academy of Sciences and received the Legion of Honour from the hands of Louis XVIII. When he died in 1823, all mourned the architect of the greatest revolution in the science and art of time-keeping. Today more than ever, its capacity to innovate reflects a brand’s vitality. Breguet’s creativity and ingenuity have not dwindled over time, but have on the contrary steadily increased : witness the fact that since 1999, under the impetus of Nicolas G. Hayek and the current management of Marc A. Hayek, the list of patents registered during this recent period is now considerably longer than that of the founder’s inventions.
The Breguet workshops on Quai de l’Horloge in Paris, in 1775.
19 // A P A S S I O N F O R I N V E N T I O N A N D I N N O V A T I O N
A selection of Breguet inventions and innovations, from 1775 to the present day. 1780 Development of the perpétuelle, or automatic watch
1792 Development and production of the mechanism for the Chappe optical telegraph
1783 Invention of the gong spring for the minute repeater
1795 First description of the sympathique clocks
Development of the perpetual date calendar
The Breguet balance spring
1786 The Breguet dial, engine-turned by hand
The ruby cylinder
1789 The ratchet key known as the “Breguet key”
1798 Patent of the constant force escapement ( March 9 )
Escapement working without oil 1790 Invention of the pare-chute ( timepiece shock absorbers )
Design of the famous Breguet hands and numerals
1796 The single-hand watch known as the “subscription” watch
Invention of the musical chronometer, the clockwork mechanism that acts as a metronome
1799 The tact watch
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1801 Patent of the Tourbillon Regulator (June 26 ) 1810 Development and production of the first wristwatch, ordered by the Queen of Naples 1812 Appearance of dials with off-centred chapter ring 1815 Fine-tuning of the double-barrelled marine chronometer 1819 Ocular of an astronomical telescope 1820 Invention of the montre à double seconde or observation chronometer, forerunner of the modern chronograph 1830 First watch with keyless winding
1991 Timepiece with a running equation-of-time, perpetual equation-of-time wristwatch 1994 Perpetual calendar mechanism, in-line perpetual calendar wristwatch 1996 Timepiece movement equipped with a perpetual calendar mechanism 1997 Patent of the in-line perpetual calendar wristwatch 1998 The world’s smallest self-winding chronograph movement 2002 5 patents registered, including :
1938 Start and reset mechanism of a movement with direct-drive seconds hand
1939 Patent of the sidereal time-keeper ( February 28 )
2003 7 patents registered, including :
1950 Chronograph reset mechanism
Chronograph minute counter ( 2 patents )
1990 The sympathique wristwatch and its clock
Double power reserve
Moon-phase mechanism ( Reine de Naples )
Patent for a mechanism to lock the alarm function, column-wheel system ( Réveil du Tsar )
2004 7 patents registered, including :
Balance for timepiece movement, titanium balance ( Tradition Tourbillon Fusée )
21 // A P A S S I O N F O R I N V E N T I O N A N D I N N O V A T I O N
2005 15 patents registered, including :
2010 11 patents registered, including :
Watch equipped with at least two regulating systems ( Double Tourbillon )
Shock-protection device for balance pivot ( Tradition )
Striking watch equipped with an acoustic membrane ( La Musicale )
2006 13 patents registered, including :
A musical module for a watch movement ( La Musicale )
Timepiece comprising a high-frequency mechanical movement ( Type XXII )
2011 19 patents registered, including :
A musical module for a watch ( La Musicale )
2007 3 patents registered, including :
A balance-spring with two spiral springs
Timepiece comprising a power-reserve display device ( Tradition Tourbillon )
Magnetic governor for the transmission wheel(s) of the movement or strike ( La Musicale )
2008 8 patents registered, including :
2012 5 patents registered, including :
Gong for a striking or alarm mechanism ( minute repeater )
Balance-spring with two spiral springs featuring improved isochronism
Balance spring with “overcoil” terminal curve in silicon ( Tradition Tourbillon )
Contact-free torque transfer for timepiece
2009 8 patents registered, including :
Gong for a timepiece striking mechanism (minute repeater)
Tourbillon timepiece movement equipped with a shock-protection device ( Tradition Tourbillon )
A total of 101 patents registered since 2002
The first magnetic strike governor in watchmaking history equipping the model 7800 “La Musicale”.
23 // A P A S S I O N F O R I N V E N T I O N A N D I N N O V A T I O N
The advent of silicon at Breguet.
In the watchmaking field, the properties of silicon also
prove mechanically useful for certain movement parts such as the balance spring. The production method for silicon components, deep reactive ion etching ( DRIE ), makes it possible to create extremely complex shapes while ensuring extreme precision, such as those required to optimise the flat balance spring.
In January 2006, Nicolas G. Hayek officially announced
The balance spring is a central component of the movement and
the result of several years of research that was to lead to a
represents the beating heart of the watch. It is also the most
technological innovation of capital importance to the entire
sensitive part if one is seeking to improve the precision of time
Swiss watch industry : the advent of silicon and its applications
measurement. Coiled in a spiral shape and coupled with the
in manufacturing a certain number of components. One of
balance, its regular oscillations impart a certain cadence to the
the advantages of silicon is that this material does not react
movement and regulate the measurement of time. It is usually
to magnetic fields. Moreover, its density which is three times
made from a metal alloy and is subject to disturbances relating
lower than that of steel or brass facilitates the making of lighter
to shocks, magnetic fields, and the earth’s gravity. The flat
parts with lower inertia, while the material itself remains extre-
balance spring, which is extremely slender, may be made from
mely solid and highly resistant to corrosion and wear.
silicon with a degree of precision verging on perfection in terms
// 24
of the shape of its curves, thereby considerably enhancing the
results. Breguet naturally therefore owed it to itself to develop
movement’s isochronism.
a silicon version of the “Breguet balance spring” with its
Research on silicon began as early as 2006, with the
famous overcoil or terminal curve invented in 1795 by the
first applications in Breguet modules. The new Classique 5177
brand founder. Breguet had conceived the ingenious idea
watch was equipped with an escape-wheel and a lever in
of raising the end of the flat balance spring and bending
silicon, while the Classique 5197 and 5837 watches featured
it slightly towards the balance-staff, thereby ensuring a
a silicon version for three components : the escape-wheel, the
concentric development and thus enhancing the precision of
lever and the flat balance spring.
the watch. Putting a curve into a sliver of silicon in order to
Silicon and its use for the flat balance spring led to
give this part its third dimension was a major feat in the watch
some spectacular feats. By way of example, the ultra-thin
industry. Silicon is not malleable like metal and forming this
reference 502.3 movement equipped with this component
bend rising up from the coil required a complete rethinking
and housed within the 5157 model represents a major accom-
of the production process. Breguet rose to the challenge and
plishment combining slenderness ( 2.4 mm ) with exceptional
the results of the research and development were unveiled
performances.
in 2010 in an exceptional model : the Tradition 7047 with a
tourbillon and a fusée and chain type transmission, equipped
The use of silicon balance springs in various move-
ments over the past four years has shown totally convincing
with a world-first “silicon Breguet balance spring”.
25 // A P A S S I O N F O R I N V E N T I O N A N D I N N O V A T I O N
High-frequency silicon. way in which the seconds hand moves is visibly modified: since the increase in frequency influences the duration of the tiny
The watchmakers of the Manufacture Breguet have
jumps made by the hand, the latter appears to be gently sliding
worked on other properties of silicon which imply that parts
around the dial. This softer motion is combined with higher
may be accurately machined and are distinctly lighter. This led
resolution and a more accurate display. Each second being
them to develop the Type XXII 10 Hz with silicon balance spring,
divided into 20 fractions makes it possible to measure time by
lever and escape-wheel, which became the first and only
this same unit, meaning to the nearest 20th of a second.
series-made mechanical chronograph with a frequency raised
to 10 Hz or 72,000 vibrations per hour, capable of marking off
frequency above all enhances the rate precision and stability of
20ths of a second.
the watch by improving the performance of the balance-wheel.
This increase in the frequency of the oscillator also led to
This work undertaken on high frequency thereby offers the
a real improvement in the operation of the chronograph. The
prospect of new applications beyond the realm of chronographs.
In addition to the display characteristics, the increase in
// 26
From silicon to the first magnetic components.
Developing solutions to withstand the detrimental effects of
the governor, guaranteeing the constancy of the tempo, was
the external magnetic fields present in the environment has ope-
already a challenge in itself. Nonetheless, the company watch-
ned up whole new vistas for the Breguet Research & Development
makers, who were not only concerned with overcoming the
team. The use of balance springs and escape-wheels in silicon,
disadvantages of the classic friction-based strike-governor sys-
boasting anti-magnetic properties, as well as a better understan-
tem, but also with enhancing its performance, achieved the feat
ding of the way in which magnetic fields affect the inside of the
of creating an innovative system equipped with magnets and
movement, served to envisage the use of magnets inside the
working on the principle of eddy currents (Foucault currents).
watch mechanism in order to improve its performances.
This magnetic governor thereby does away with issues of wear,
noise and the need for a large supply of energy, while ensuring
The first results were applied to the heart of the 7800
“La Musicale” model, a striking watch equipped with the first
increased precision.
magnetic governor in watchmaking history. Incorporating within
a wristwatch mechanism a music-box mechanism as well as
magnetic components opens up exciting new prospects.
Hitherto considered horological heresy, the introduction of
27 // A P A S S I O N S H A R E D
Breguet archives. A.-L. Breguet took pains to register the production and
Breguet registers, contributing to the history of its prestigious
sales of the company he founded in 1775. Each timepiece
timepieces. Today still, the company registers, constituting
was thus recorded under its individual number with a short
the core of the company archives in the Breguet Museum,
description, the date of sale and the name of the purchaser.
are a valuable source of information for watch experts and
Since that time the company has made it a point of honor to keep up a tradition it holds dear and which underlines the importance that it accords to each of its clients.
historians. Opening the registers is like delving into history. In them are the famous names that have marked their era, from Queen
A case in point is Breguet’s first 2003 institutional
Marie-Antoinette, Napoleon Bonaparte and many others, to
advertising campaign. Designed to alert brand enthusiasts
those in the news today. Discretion, however, prevents the
throughout the world to the importance of keeping this tradi-
company from revealing the names of living owners.
tion alive, its message immediately generated sharp interest. Hundreds of family names continue to be added every year to
By acquiring a Breguet watch, each client enters into a privileged relationship with many generations of time.
// 28
That is why Breguet invites all those acquiring the brand’s models to record their names in the company registers, thereb y perpetuating this time-honoured tradition as well as enhancing its clients’ sense of belonging to an exclusive circle of passionate enthusiasts.
30 // A P A S S I O N S H A R E D
Distinguished Breguet’s patrons.
The great and the good of every age have recognised in a Breguet watch expressions of high human ideals – creativeness, beauty,
impartiality. The watch owned by the world’s most prominent individuals holds equal fascination for their literary contemporaries.
For the most fashionable writers of every era, it’s a Breguet, rather than a watch, that comes into the story. The firm’s famed
archives record every Breguet watch sold since 1787. For its advertising campaign, Breguet selected a few of their owners who warrant the attention of history.
// 31
A selection of Breguet’s distinguished patrons. Duc d’Orléans (1780 )
Prince Orloff (1810 )
Queen Victoria (1838 )
Marie-Antoinette, Queen of France (1782 )
Prince Poniatowski (1811)
Duc de Morny (1841)
Louis XVI, King of France (1783 )
Prince Ferdinand of Spain (1812 )
Gioachino Rossini (1843)
Charles-Maurice de Talleyrand-Périgord (1787)
Prince Charles of Spain (1812 )
Horace Vernet (1855 )
Marquise de Condorcet (1792 )
Baron Hottinguer (1812 )
Comte de Paris (1863 )
Empress Joséphine of France (1798 )
The Florence Observatory (1812 )
Empress Isabelle du Brésil (1871)
Napoleon Bonaparte (1798 )
Empress Marie-Louise of France (1813)
Sir Winston Churchill (1901)
General Charles Victor Emmanuel Leclerc (1801)
Michel Ney, Marshal of France (1813)
King Fuad I of Egypt (1924 )
The Prince of Wales (1803 )
General Davidoff (1814 )
Maharadjah of Kapurthala (1924 )
Giovanni Paisiello (1804 )
The Duke of Wellington (1814)
Arthur Rubinstein (1930 )
The Prince of Wurtemberg (1805 )
Baron Rothschild (1815 )
Sergei Rachmaninov (1931)
Sélim III, Sultan of the Ottoman Empire (1806 )
The Duke of Marlborough (1818)
Ettore Bugatti (1932 )
Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples (1807)
The Duke of Norfolk (1821)
Prince George of Greece (1934 )
Tsar Alexander I of Russia (1809 )
Louis XVIII, King of France (1821)
The Duke of Windsor (1950 )
George III, King of England (1810 )
Count Axel von Fersen (1835 )
32 // A P A S S I O N S H A R E D
Marie-Antoinette, Queen of France
In October 1782, A.- L. Breguet “invented, perfected and
completed” watch number 2 10/82 for Queen Marie-Antoinette. It was a self-winding perpétuelle repeater with a date indication. The queen recognised the work of a master, and the following year Breguet received an astonishing request from an officer of the Queen’s Guard : to make for her a watch incorporating all the known horological complications and inventions.
Time and cost were apparently no object. It indeed took a
long time for the watch to catch up with A.-L. Breguet’s flow of invention, for watch number 160 was only completed after the queen’s death.
// 33
General Napoleon Bonaparte In April 1798, a few weeks before he left for Egypt, General Bonaparte acquired three important timepieces from Breguet : a repeating watch, a repeating carriage clock with a calendar, and a self-winding perpétuelle repeating watch. The future emperor’s family soon became Breguet’s clients.
34 // A P A S S I O N S H A R E D
Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples
Napoleon’s young sister began purchasing timepieces from
Breguet in 1805, at the age of 23, and continued at a steady rate until 1814, thereby acquiring no less than 34 watches and clocks. In 1810, based on an order from this authentic watchmaking enthusiast who had by then been crowned Queen of Naples, A.-L. Breguet developed especially for this purpose the world’s first known wristwatch. This exceptionally slender, ovalshaped watch, fitted with a wristlet composed of hair entwined with gold thread, was distinguished by its entirely original architecture and inimitable sense of refinement.
// 35
Gioachino Rossini
The illustrious Gioachino Rossini once owned Breguet
watch number 4604, a simple, modestly sized design displaying the date. It featured an engine-turned gold case, an off-centred silver dial and a lever escapement. This high-quality timepiece was initially purchased by the banker Schickler in 1828 for 3,600 French francs. By the 1830s, the watch had passed to a certain Mr Church. It was then owned by Rossini, who had it serviced in 1843. After the composer’s death, in 1868, his widow continued to have the piece serviced by Breguet.
36 // A P A S S I O N S H A R E D
The watch and the pen: literary passions.
A number of literary figures have paid tribute to the art of Breguet in their writings, among them : Stendhal, Pushkin, Prosper
Mérimée, Balzac, Alexandre Dumas, Henry Murger, Victor Hugo, and, more recently, John Fowles, Patrick O’Brian and Jiro Asada.
Stendhal
(1783-1842 )
“ Breguet makes a watch which for twenty years never goes wrong,
while the pitiful machine by which we live runs amiss and produces pain at least once a week.
”
Rome, Naples and Florence (1817)
Pushkin
(1799-1837 )
“ A dandy on the boulevards (...), strolling at leisure
until his Breguet, ever vigilant, reminds him it is midday.
”
Eugene Onegin (1825-1833 )
38 // A P A S S I O N S H A R E D
Prosper Mérimée
(1803-1870 )
“ The traveller regrets taking so much money with him. He looks at his Breguet watch — perhaps it’s for the last time.
He would have been happier if it were hanging safely from his mantelpiece in Paris.
”
Lettre d’Espagne (1830 )
Balzac
(1799-1850 )
“ He drew out the most delicious thin watch that Breguet had ever made. Fancy, it is eleven o’clock, I was up early.”
Eugénie Grandet (1833 )
Alexandre Dumas
(1802-1870 )
“ Danglars’ watch, a masterpiece by Breguet which he had rewound with care before
setting out the previous day, chimed half past five in the morning.
Henry Murger
”
The Count of Monte Cristo (1845 )
(1822-1861)
“ Rodolphe found Mademoiselle Laure at the trysting place.
Good, said he, for punctuality she is a feminine Breguet.
”
“Scenes of Bohemian Life” (1848), the work that inspired Puccini for his opera “La Bohème”
// 39
Victor Hugo
(1802-1885 )
“ At times the heart plays tricks and lets us down. The vigilant are right.
For God ( the mighty Breguet ) gave us faith, and seeing it was good, improved it with a watchful eye.
”
Chansons des Rues et des Bois (1865 )
John Fowles
( 1926 - 2005 )
“ He takes out his watch, a Breguet, (…) an instrument from the bench of the greatest of watchmakers.” The French Lieutenant’s Woman (1969 )
Patrick O’Brian
(1914-2000 )
“ They were both indeed Breguet watches, wonderfully accurate, wonderfully resistant (…).” Blue at the Mizzen (1999 )
Jiro Asada
“ My watch that you see here is a jewel made by a great craftsman called Breguet.
It seems that it was once treasured by King Louis and Queen Marie-Antoinette. It’s a real masterpiece, of unequalled precision.
”
Tooi Tsutsuoto (2002 )
40 // A P A S S I O N S H A R E D
Breguet constructed his first travelling clock in 1796.
Fitting with a calendar and a repeater, this small clock, glazed on four sides and numbered 178, was bought by General
Napoleon Bonaparte in 1798. A.-L. Breguet went on to design more sophisticated models in neo-classical or astonishingly modern styles, adding grand and small strike, perpetual calendar, moon-phases and alarm indicator. Today still, the Breguet collection includes a travelling clock, fitted with both a hand-wound chronograph movement and a thermometer.
// 41
6190AG/12 Classique silver clock with thermometer calibrated in both Celsius and Fahrenheit. Hand-wound chronograph movement. Centre minute totaliser and seconds. Dial in silvered 925 silver, hand-engraved on a rose engine.
42 // P A S S I O N F R O M T H E A G E O F R E A S O N
The Breguet style.
Breguet watches are unmistakable for their perfectly rational styling where lines are clean and functions clear. To create the
style that time cannot age, A.-L. Breguet turned to the classical rules of proportion and order. As in all precious objects, it is the sum of detail that gives a watch its particular presence. Today Breguet watches carry the pedigree of an original design in sharp, blued-steel hands and the crisp engine-turning of the dial.
// 43
A single number
Watch enthusiasts agree that each Breguet watch represents an exceptional standard of horological art that deserves to be
identified for posterity. Since Breguet’s early days, the manufacturing numbers of its watches have enabled collectors to confirm their origin and provenance. In keeping with tradition, the unique production number assigned to each Breguet watch will testify to the talent and the care of its manufacture for generations to come.
The secret signature Their very success soon made Breguet’s watches a tempting target for counterfeiters. In 1795, Breguet came up with a
countermeasure : the secret signature. Etched into the dial, the signature is all but invisible unless the dial is examined in oblique light. Still a token of authenticity today, the secret signature has remained a feature of most Breguet dials down to the present.
44 // P A S S I O N F R O M T H E A G E O F R E A S O N
Engine-turned dials
Around 1786, Breguet began fitting his watches with engine-turned silver or gold dials of his own design. The craft of carving
recurring patterns in metal is rare today, but it remains one of the details that identify Breguet watches. Manually engine-turned, their dials are celebrated for the fineness of their patterns, reflecting the regularity of the movements within.
An engine-turned dial is indisputably a true work of art. Smooth to start with, the solid gold dial plate is first worked with
a hand graver to outline and hollow out the areas of the dial reserved for such indications as the power reserve, the phases of the moon, the subdial for the seconds and others, depending on the model. Engine-turning as such can now begin, resulting in a finely textured, glareproofed matt surface. Not only do the decorative patterns selected – clou de Paris hobnailing, pavé de Paris cobbling, sunburst, barleycorn, waves, crossweave, checkerboard, flame and many more – make the dial far easier to read, they also contribute greatly to its unique character.
Today still, Breguet craftsmen continue to use engine-turning lathes designed and built over a century ago. With a precision
of a tenth of a millimeter, they engrave intricate patterns reflecting their uncommon virtuosity. From start to finish, engine-turning depends essentially on the craftsman’s sharp eye and steady hand, of which the lathe is but an extension.
Once the dial plate has been meticulously engine-turned by hand, it is silver coated using techniques developed over two
centuries ago : powdered silver is delicately brushed on the plate with circular or linear movements, depending on the type of satin-like finish desired.
// 45
Today, the same kind of engine-turned guilloché work engraved on gold Breguet dials is also executed on delicate and brittle
plates of mother-of-pearl – a truly impressive achievement in its own right.
46 // P A S S I O N F R O M T H E A G E O F R E A S O N
Breguet numerals Some Breguet watches display the distinctive numerals that A.- L. Breguet designed. Although he himself was no calligraphist,
Breguet’s Arabic numerals show his flair for combining function with elegance. Still used today, particularly on watches with enamel dials, Breguet numerals first appeared before the French Revolution when they shared the dial with tiny stars to mark the minutes and stylised fleur-de-lys at five-minute intervals. By 1790 they had assumed their definitive form.
Caseband fluting The fluting ( fine grooves enhanced with double beading ) on the caseband of Breguet’s watches is another of the discreet
decorative details that constitute what has become known as the Breguet style. In common with many period Breguet timepieces, most of its modern wristwatches have fluted casebands - one of the features that set them apart from other watches. The fluted pattern is cold-rolled into the caseband then finished by hand on a mechanical workpiece-holder.
// 47
Breguet hands Breguet watches have featured its founder’s celebrated hollow, eccentric “moon” tip watch hands for over two centuries now.
Designed around 1783, his slim, sleek hands proved an instant success and the expression “Breguet hands” soon became a common watchmaker’s term. Simple and easy-to-read, they are found on most Breguet timepieces and have been widely imitated by others.
Lugs
Although essential only to wristwatches, the lugs that link the strap to the case bear all the hallmarks of authentic Breguet
styling. Screw-pins, rather than the more usual sprung bars, hold the strap between the horns, a solution that is not only better looking but also more secure. The lugs have to be welded onto the caseband as much for the technical reasons of rigidity and strength as for aesthetic consistency. Equally exacting is the drilling of the hole for the winding stem. Only absolute precision ensures a watertight case.
48 // P A S S I O N F R O M T H E A G E O F R E A S O N
Writing instruments and cufflinks. A sense of presence and refinement.
Conveying an ultimate touch of elegance and refinement, the writing instruments and cufflinks reflect the brand signature
features, such as the famous fluted pattern. The writing instruments crafted in silver pay tribute to literature and to the authors who have honoured Breguet. Whether the cufflinks reveal something of the celebrated engine-turned or white grand feu enamelled dials, reinterpret the Clou de Paris hobnail design, feature the Breguet initial or a miniature oscillating weight, all salute the splendour of the brand’s timepieces and the skill of its watchmaking artisans.
// 49
Fountain pen, ref. WI01AG03F. Roller pen, ref. WI02AG03F. Ballpoint pen / mechanical pencil, ref. WI03AG03F. Complete set, ref. WIS1AG03F.
50 // P A S S I O N F R O M T H E A G E O F R E A S O N
18-carat white gold. Middle section set with diamonds, silvered gold dial engine-turned by hand, ref. 9905.BB.GU.D. Available exclusively from Breguet boutiques.
18-carat white gold. Black rhodium-plated gold dial engine-turned by hand, ref. 9905.BB.5847.
18-carat yellow gold with Clou de Paris hobnail motif, ref. 9901.BA.CP.
// 51
18-carat rose gold and chocolate-brown enamel with Breguet “B ”, ref. 9903.BR.EC.
18-carat rose gold with moon-phase display on grand feu enamelled background, réf. 9905.BR.7787.
18-carat white gold and onyx, with oscillating weight, ref. 9907.BB.OX.
Hand chamfering. Hand chamfering or bevelling is a meticulous and delicate finish that calls for a blend of know-how and dexterity. The operation consists of rounding off the sharp edges of watch parts using a succession of different files and then a buff composed of a lath of wood covered with emery paper. The chamfer achieved is polished with a burnisher, a small tool generally made of ground steel coated with diamantine polishing powder. The outline of the parts is thus accentuated by creating a luminous shimmering effect.
53 // T R A D I T I O N
The Tradition collection by Breguet. An invitation to journey through time and beyond time.
The Tradition collection pays a vibrant tribute to the memory of Breguet. Inspired by the legendary souscription watches of
Breguet, Tradition timepieces suggest both a return to the brand’s origins and a vision of its future. Aptly reconciling established and avant-garde styling, their dial face accommodates horological complications in trim, aesthetically sweeping compositions. True to the rules of flawless craftsmanship instituted two centuries ago, even their most modest parts receive a sand-blasted surface finish, meticulously applied by hand. Masterly expressions of time’s elusive complexity, Tradition timepieces deftly capture its innermost spirit.
// 54
7027BB/G9/9V6
Available in yellow gold with gilt movement and silvered gold dial, ref. 7027BA/11/9V6 or in white gold with silvered movement and silvered gold dial, ref. 7027BB/11/9V6.
Tradition wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Hand-wound movement with power reserve indicated above and underneath. Off-centred black dial in gold, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 37 mm.
// 56
7027BR/R9/9V6 Tradition wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold. Hand-wound movement with power reserve indicated above and underneath. Off-centred black dial in gold, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 37 mm.
7027BR/G9/9V6 Tradition wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold. Hand-wound movement with power reserve indicated above and underneath. Off-centred black dial in gold, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 37 mm.
57 // T R A D I T I O N
7037BA/11/9V6 Tradition wristwatch in 18-carat yellow gold. Selfwinding movement with retrograding seconds hand. Off-centred silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 38 mm.
7037BB/11/9V6 Tradition wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Selfwinding movement with retrograding seconds hand. Off-centred silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 38 mm.
// 58
7057BB/11/9W6 Tradition wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Hand-wound movement with power reserve indicated on the dial and on the back. Off-centred silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 40 mm.
59 // T R A D I T I O N
7057BR/G9/9W6 Tradition wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold. Hand-wound movement with power reserve indicated on the dial and on the back. Off-centred black dial in gold, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in white gold with slate grey movement. Diameter : 40 mm.
// 60
7057BR/R9/9W6 Tradition wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold. Hand-wound movement with power reserve indicated on the dial and on the back. Off-centred black dial in gold, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 40 mm.
// 62
7067BR/G1/9W6 Tradition GMT wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold. Hand-wound movement. Second time-zone indicator. Day/night indicator. Off-centred local time subdial in silvered gold, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Black off-centred reference time subdial in gold, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Power-reserve indicator on the back of the movement. Silicon balance spring with Breguet overcoil. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in white gold. Diameter : 40 mm.
63 // T R A D I T I O N G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
7047PT/11/9ZU Tradition “Grande Complication” wristwatch in platinum, with fusee tourbillon. Balance spring in silicon. Hand-wound movement with power reserve displayed on the barrel drum. Offcentred silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 41 mm.
65 // T R A D I T I O N G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
7047BA/11/9ZU Tradition “Grande Complication” wristwatch in 18-carat yellow gold, with fusee tourbillon. Balance spring in silicon. Hand-wound movement with power reserve displayed on the barrel drum. Off-centred silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 41 mm.
// 66
7047BR/G9/9ZU
Available with a rose-gilted movement, ref. 7047BR/R9/9ZU.
Tradition “Grande Complication” wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold with fusee tourbillon. Balance spring in silicon. Hand-wound movement with power reserve displayed on the barrel drum. Black off-centred gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 41 mm.
Engine turning an oscillating weight. The engine-turning lathe, or rose engine, is a time-honoured instrument enabling the artisan to engrave tiny tenth of a millimetre motifs in gold using a traditional technique. The comb ination of straight and circular lines creates intricate yet elegantly restrained patterns.
68 // C L A S S I Q U E
The Classique wristwatches exemplify the watchmaking ideals of precision, clarity and elegant lines.
Whether extra-thin models with manually wound or automatic movements or complicated watches, they are all true to the technical
principles, the artistry and the traditional values of the Breguet watch. Classique wristwatches capture the essence of Breguet’s original features. In some models, the precious materials of former times and fired enamel dials with Arabic numerals will delight Breguet enthusiasts.
// 69
5157BB/11/9V6 Extra-thin Classique wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Self-winding movement. Balance spring and lever in silicon. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in yellow gold. Diameter : 38 mm.
71 // C L A S S I Q U E
5907BA/12/984 Classique wristwatch in 18-carat yellow gold. Hand-wound movement with seconds subdial. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in white or rose gold. Diameter : 34 mm.
5920BA/15/984 Classique wristwatch in 18-carat yellow gold. Selfwinding movement with date and seconds subdial. Silvered gold dial, handengraved on a rose engine. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in white or rose gold. Diameter : 34 mm.
// 72
5930BA/12/986 Classique wristwatch in 18-carat yellow gold. Selfwinding movement with date. Silvered gold dial, handengraved on a rose engine. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in white gold. Diameter : 35.50 mm.
73 // C L A S S I Q U E
5967BA/11/9W6 Extra-thin Classique wristwatch in 18-carat yellow gold. Hand-wound movement. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in white gold. Diameter : 41 mm.
// 74
5177BR/12/9V6
Available with rose gold bracelet, ref. 5177BR/12/RV0.
Classique wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold. Self-winding movement with date. Balance spring, lever and escape wheel in silicon. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in yellow or white gold. Diameter : 38 mm.
75 // C L A S S I Q U E
5177BB/29/9V6 Classique wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Selfwinding movement with date. Balance spring, lever and escape wheel in silicon. White grand feu enamel dial. Breguet Arabic numerals. Secret signature. Sapphire caseback. Waterresistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in yellow or rose gold. Diameter : 38 mm.
Available with white gold bracelet, ref. 5177BB/29/BV0.
// 76
5178BR/29/9V6 D000 Classique wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold. Bezel set with 84 diamonds, approx. 0.634 ct. Self-winding movement with date. Balance spring, lever and escape wheel in silicon. White grand feu enamel dial. Breguet Arabic numerals. Secret signature. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in yellow or white gold. Diameter : 38 mm.
77 // C L A S S I Q U E
5140BA/12/9W6 Classique wristwatch in 18-carat yellow gold. Selfwinding movement with seconds subdial. Balance spring and lever in silicon. Silvered gold dial, handengraved on a rose engine. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 40 mm.
5140BA/29/9W6 Classique wristwatch in 18-carat yellow gold. Self-winding movement with seconds subdial. Balance spring and lever in silicon. White grand feu enamel dial. Breguet Arabic numerals. Secret signature. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in white gold. Diameter : 40 mm.
// 78
5140BB/12/9W6 Classique wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Selfwinding movement with seconds subdial. Balance spring and lever in silicon. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 40 mm.
79 // C L A S S I Q U E
5207BB/12/9V6
Classique wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Self-winding movement. Retrograding seconds subdial and power-reserve indicator. Off-centred chapter ring. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 39 mm.
// 80
5207BB/12/BV0 Classique wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Self-winding movement. Retrograding seconds subdial and power-reserve indicator. Off-centred chapter ring. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in yellow gold. Diameter : 39 mm.
5207BA/12/9V6
Available with yellow gold bracelet, ref. 5207BA/12/AV0.
Classique wristwatch in 18-carat yellow gold. Self-winding movement. Retrograding seconds subdial and power-reserve indicator. Off-centred chapter ring. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 39 mm.
81 // C L A S S I Q U E
8067BA/52/964 Classique wristwatch in 18-carat yellow gold. Self-winding movement. Natural mother-of-pearl dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in white gold. Diameter : 30 mm.
Available with yellow gold bracelet, ref. 8067BA/52/AC0.
// 82
8068BB/52/964 DD00 Classique wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Bezel and lugs set with 64 diamonds, approx. 1.09 cts . Selfwinding movement. Natural mother-of-pearl dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in yellow gold. Diameter : 30 mm.
8068BB/52/BCO DD00 Classique wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Bezel and lugs set with 64 diamonds, approx. 1.09 cts . Selfwinding movement. Natural mother-of-pearl dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in yellow gold. Diameter : 30 mm.
83 // C L A S S I Q U E
7787BR/29/9V6
Also available: 36 mm diameter, ref. 8787BR/29/986.
Classique wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold. Self-winding movement with power-reserve indicator and phases and age of the moon. Balance spring, lever and escape wheel in silicon. White grand feu enamel dial with Breguet Arabic numerals and secret signature. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 39 mm.
// 84
7787BB/12/9V6
Also available: 36 mm diameter, bezel and lugs set with diamonds, ref. 8788BB/12/986 DD00 and 8788BR/12/986 DD00.
Classique wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Self-winding movement with power-reserve indicator and phases and age of the moon. Balance spring, lever and escape wheel in silicon. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in rose gold. Diameter : 39 mm.
// 86
8788BR/29/986 DD00
Also Available: 39 mm diameter, bezel and lugs set with diamonds, ref. 7788BR/29/9V6 DD00.
Classique wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold. Bezel and lugs set with 96 diamonds, approx. 0.768ct. Self-winding movement with power-reserve indicator and phases and age of the moon. Balance spring, lever and escape wheel in silicon. White grand feu enamel dial with Breguet Arabic numerals and secret signature. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 36 mm.
87 // C L A S S I Q U E
Watch No.5, started in 1787 but only finished in March 1794 by A.-L. Breguet for Count Journiac St. Méard. In 2001, it was bought back by Nicolas G. Hayek for the Breguet Museum. This watch inspired the reference 3137 wristwatch of today.
// 88
3137BA/11/986 Classique wristwatch in 18-carat yellow gold. Selfwinding movement with date, power-reserve indicator and phases and age of the moon. Balance spring and lever in silicon. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in white gold. Diameter : 35.50 mm.
89 // C L A S S I Q U E
7137BA/11/9V6
Available with yellow gold bracelet, ref. 7137BA/11/AV0.
Classique wristwatch in 18-carat yellow gold. Selfwinding extra-thin movement with date, power-reserve indicator and phases and age of the moon. Balance spring and lever in silicon. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in white gold. Diameter : 39 mm.
// 90
A watch only comes to life in a master watchmaker’s expert hands. Drawing on his professional skills and experience, he assembles, fits and adjusts every component of the movement before encasing it and fitting on the dial.
// 92
7337BR/1E/9V6
Available with rose gold bracelet, ref. 7337BR/1E/RV0.
Classique wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold. Selfwinding movement showing the date, the day and the phases and age of the moon. Balance spring and lever in silicon. Seconds subdial. Off-centred chapter ring. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in yellow or white gold. Diameter : 39 mm.
93 // C L A S S I Q U E
5707BA/12/9V6
Available with yellow gold bracelet, ref. 5707BA/12/AV0.
Le Réveil du Tsar. Classique alarm wristwatch in 18-carat yellow gold. Self-winding movement with seconds subdial and date. Second time-zone indicator. Alarm time and alarm power-reserve indicators. Alarm on/off indicator. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 39 mm.
// 94
5707BB/12/9V6
Available with white gold bracelet, ref. 5707BB/12/BV0.
Le Réveil du Tsar. Classique alarm wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Self-winding movement with seconds subdial and date. Second time-zone indicator. Alarm time and alarm power-reserve indicators. Alarm on/off indicator. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 39 mm.
4
1
2 5
6
7
3
// 96
The seven engraved patterns on the dial of the Réveil du Tsar. 1
Clou de Paris on the main dial
2
Satiné circulaire on the hour circle
3
Sauté piqué (or liseré ) on the minute circle
4
Pointes de diamant (or Pavé de Paris ) on the subdial at the “3”
5
Vieux panier on the upper half of subdial at the “9”
6
Décor flammé on the lower half of subdial at the “9”
7
Grain d’orge circulaire on the small seconds subdial at the “6” (and on the rotor )
97 // C L A S S I Q U E
“La Musicale” watch by Breguet. An encounter between Music and the Art of Watchmaking. The classical “La Musicale” watch plays a crystal-toned version of “The Thieving Magpie” overture by Rossini, either on demand or at the desired time, like a melodic reminder. Based on the 777 self-winding movement incorporating an escapement as well as a balance spring both made in silicon, this technical masterpiece houses a patented musical mechanism. A disc carrying the pins replaces the traditional music-box cylinder and alternately acts on the 15 metal teeth of the comb. A metallic glass membrane, engine-turned by hand, placed beneath the movement and serving to amplify the frequencies required to emit the tune, sets the finishing touch to this exceptional mechanism. The back of the gold case protecting the membrane in Liquidmetal ® is drilled with several openings designed to ensure optimal sound transmission. To enhance listening pleasure, the model is equipped with the first magnetic strike governor in watchmaking history. This patented system, equipped with magnets isolated within a cage, manages to eliminate background noise as well as the characteristic wear typical of classic strike-governors. Further expressing the inimitable Breguet flair for details, the presentation box is crafted from resonance wood. Resonance spruce is the main type of wood chosen by luthiers as the vibrating membrane on stringed instruments. This wood, found in the Risoud forest of the Joux Valley which is home to the Manufacture Breguet, remarkably amplifies the tune of La Musicale. 7800BA/11/9YV La Musicale. Classique wristwatch in 18-carat yellow gold. Self-winding movement. Balance spring, lever and escape wheel in silicon. Rotating platinum coat dial handengraved on a rose engine. Silvered gold chapter ring. Alarm on/off and autonomy indicators. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in white gold. Diameter : 48 mm.
100 // C L A S S I Q U E
5947BA/12/9V6 Classique split-seconds chronograph in 18-carat yellow gold. Hand-wound movement with seconds subdial. 30-minute totaliser. Split-seconds pushpiece in the crown. Compensating balance spring with Breguet overcoil. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in white gold. Diameter : 39 mm.
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5247BR/12/9V6
Available with rose gold bracelet, ref. 5247BR/12/RV0.
Classique chronograph in 18-carat rose gold. Hand-wound movement with seconds subdial and 30-minute totaliser. Tachometric scale indication. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in white gold. Diameter : 39 mm.
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5247BR/29/9V6
Available with rose gold bracelet, ref. 5247BR/29/RV0.
Classique chronograph in 18-carat rose gold. Hand-wound movement with seconds subdial and 30-minute totaliser. Tachometric scale indication. White grand feu enamel dial. Breguet Arabic numerals. Secret signature. Sapphire caseback. Waterresistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in white gold. Diameter : 39 mm.
104 // C L A S S I Q U E
5238BB/10/9V6 DD00 Classique openworked chronograph in 18-carat white gold. Hand-wound movement with seconds subdial. 30-minute totaliser. Bezel, lugs and caseband paved with 96 baguette-cut diamonds, approx. 13cts. Diameter : 40.30 m m.
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Gold, platinum, precious stones, mother-of-pearl. Breguet makes a point of selecting only the finest and noblest metals and materials for its exceptional timepieces.
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5327BA/1E/9V6
Available with yellow gold bracelet, ref. 5327BA/1E/AV0.
Classique wristwatch in 18-carat yellow gold. Self-winding extra-thin movement engraved by hand, with perpetual calendar showing the day, date, month, leap year and the phases and age of the moon. Balance spring and lever in silicon. Power-reserve indicator. Silvered gold dial, handengraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in white or rose gold and in platinum. Diameter : 39 mm.
108 // C L A S S I Q U E
Hora Mundi. A new generation of time-zone watches. From first glance, Hora Mundi is an invitation to journey across oceans and continents. Europe-Africa, Asia-Oceania or America : three parts of the world are respectively depicted on three different models. This set of three dials for a time-zone watch featuring understated indications conceals a single and extremely ingenious mechanism. The fact that the display of the local time zone and of any other selected time zone is provided by the same hands implies instant time change in order for the watch to be truly functional. This technical feat is accomplished by means of a mechanical memory system featuring two heart-shaped cams. Another challenge it embodies lies in ensuring that the date and the day/night indication are instantly aligned with the time displayed. The Classique Hora Mundi is thus the first mechanical instant-jump time-zone watch with a mechanical memory providing synchronised displays of the date, day/night indication and city.
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5717PT/EU/9ZU
Available with America dial, ref. 5717PT/US/9ZU, or Asia-Oceania dial, ref. 5717PT/AS/9ZU.
Classique “Hora Mundi” wristwatch in platinum. Self-winding movement. Instant-jump time-zone display with synchronised date, day/night indication and city. Balance spring, lever and escape wheel in silicon. Gold dial depicting the continents of Europe and Africa, hand-engraved on a rose engine with “wave” motif coated with translucent lacquer. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in rose gold. Diameter : 43 mm.
110 // C L A S S I Q U E
5717BR/AS/9ZU
5717PT/US/9ZU Classique “Hora Mundi” wristwatch in platinum. Self-winding movement. Instant-jump time-zone display with synchronised date, day/night indication and city. Balance spring, lever and escape wheel in silicon. Gold dial depicting the American continent, handengraved on a rose engine with “wave” motif coated with translucent lacquer. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in rose gold. Diameter : 43 mm.
Available with Europe-Africa dial, ref. 5717PT/EU/9ZU, or Asia-Oceania dial, ref. 5717PT/AS/9ZU.
Available with Europe-Africa dial, ref. 5717BR/EU/9ZU, or America dial, ref. 5717BR/US/9ZU.
Classique “Hora Mundi” wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold. Self-winding movement. Instant-jump time-zone display with synchronised date, day/night indication and city. Balance spring, lever and escape wheel in silicon. Gold dial depicting the continents of Asia and Oceania, handengraved on a rose engine with “wave” motif coated with translucent lacquer. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in platinum. Diameter : 43 mm.
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5719PT/AS/9ZV DD0D
Available with America dial, ref. 5719PT/US/9ZV DD0D, or Europe-Africa dial, ref. 5719PT/EU/9ZV DD0D.
Classique “Hora Mundi” wristwatch in 950 platinum. Self-winding movement. Instantjump time-zone display with synchronised date, day/night indication and city. Balance spring, lever and escape wheel in silicon. Dial depicting the Asia-Oceania continent set with 154 diamonds totalling approx. 0.399 ct with “wave” motif coated with translucent laquer. Chapter ring paved with 76 baguettecut diamonds, approx. 2.01cts, and with 83 baguette-cut sapphires totalling approx. 1.98 cts. Bezel, dial flange and lugs set with 130 baguette-cut diamonds totalling approx. 17.32cts. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar (30m). Diameter : 46 mm.
Chasing a movement. Using one of the many scorpers or gravers that he himself fashions on a grinding-wheel according to the motif to be executed, the artisan engraves the drawings freehand. Gifted with artistic flair and exemplary dexterity, he contributes to the unique nature of each part.
115 // C L A S S I Q U E G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
The Classiques “Grandes Complications”. The Tourbillon. A watch balance will go fast or slow depending on the position of the watch. Breguet addressed the problem by rotating the entire balance and escapement around their common axis once a minute. This constant rotation averages out all the positional errors. A.-L. Breguet received a patent from France’s Ministry of the Interior for a new regulating device known as the tourbillon on June 26, 1801. The document was dated according to the Republican calendar of the time, 7 Messidor, Year 9. The tourbillon was perhaps too technically sophisticated for everyday use ; only 35 were sold between 1805 and A.-L. Breguet’s death in 1823. But it came into its own in the hands of his successors, who acknowledged it as horology’s most ingenious invention. Although progress has given watchmakers more conventional means of obtaining accuracy in wristwatches, the tourbillon retains its fascination by reason of the complexity of its action and the sheer genius of its concept. For many, the tourbillon embodies the scientific thinking of the Age of Reason. Breguet’s tourbillon survives today because its complexity offers unlimited scope for refinement and improvement. In the space of a wristwatch, balancing the forces and inertias generated by rotating and oscillating mechanisms becomes even more exacting. The critical element is the construction of the lightweight yet strong carriage that rotates the movement’s regulating organ.
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5317BR/12/9V6
Available with rose gold bracelet, ref. 5317BR/12/RV0.
Classique “Grande Complication” wristwatch in 18-carat pink gold, with tourbillon. Self-winding movement engraved by hand. 5-day power-reserve indicator. Running seconds on the tourbillon shaft. Compensating balance spring with Breguet overcoil. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in yellow gold and in platinum. Diameter : 39 mm.
118 // C L A S S I Q U E G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
3357BR/12/986 Classique “Grande Complication” wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold, with tourbillon. Hand-wound movement, engraved by hand. Running seconds on the tourbillon shaft. Compensating balance spring with Breguet overcoil. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in yellow or white gold. Diameter : 35 mm.
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3355PT/00/986
Available with platinum bracelet, ref. 3355PT/00/PA0.
Classique “Grande Complication” openworked wristwatch in platinum, with tourbillon. Handwound movement, engraved by hand. Running seconds on the tourbillon shaft. Compensating balance spring with Breguet overcoil. Chapter ring and seconds semi-circle in silvered gold, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 35 mm.
120 // C L A S S I Q U E G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
3358BB/2Y/986 DD0D
Available with gold dial hand-engraved on a rose engine and translucent red enamel coating, réf. 3358BB/2P/986 DD0D.
Classique “Grande Complication” wristwatch in 18-carat white gold, with tourbillon. Hand-wound movement. Bezel and lugs set with 74 diamonds totalling approx. 1.33 cts. Running seconds on the tourbillon shaft. Compensating balance spring with Breguet overcoil. Gold dial hand-engraved on a rose engine, with translucent blue enamel coating. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 35 mm.
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3358BB/52/986 DD00 Classique “Grande Complication” wristwatch in 18-carat white gold, with tourbillon. Hand-wound movement. Running seconds on the tourbillon shaft. Compensating balance spring with Breguet overcoil. Bezel and lugs set with 74 diamonds, approx. 1.33 cts . Natural mother-of-pearl dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Breguet Arabic numerals. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 35 mm.
122 // C L A S S I Q U E G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
The original drawing of the tourbillon in the patent awarded to its inventor, A.- L. Breguet, by France’s Ministry of the Interior on June 26, 1801 ( 7 Messidor Year 9 ).
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124 // C L A S S I Q U E G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
5357PT/12/9V6 Classique “Grande Complication” wristwatch in platinum, with tourbillon. Hand-wound movement, engraved by hand. Running seconds on the tourbillon shaft. Compensating balance spring with Breguet overcoil. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in yellow gold. Diameter : 39 mm.
Available with platinum bracelet, ref. 5357PT/12/PV0.
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5357BA/1B/9V6
Available with yellow gold bracelet, ref. 5357BA/1B/AV0.
Classique “Grande Complication” wristwatch in 18-carat yellow gold, with tourbillon. Hand-wound movement, engraved by hand. ”B”-shaped running seconds on the tourbillon shaft. Compensating balance spring with Breguet overcoil. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in platinum. Diameter : 39 mm.
126 // C L A S S I Q U E G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
5359BB/6B/9V6 DD0D Classique “Grande Complication” in 18-carat white gold, with tourbillon. Hand-wound movement. Running seconds on the tourbillon shaft. Compensating balance spring with Breguet overcoil. Bezel, lugs and caseband paved with 134 baguette-cut diamonds, approx. 10.37 cts . Silvered gold dial, handengraved on a rose engine and paved with 356 diamonds, approx. 0.50ct . Diameter : 40.30 mm.
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5335BR/42/9W6
Available with rose gold bracelet, ref. 5335BR/42/RW0.
Tourbillon Messidor. Classique “Grande Complication” openworked wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold. Hand-wound movement. Running seconds on the tourbillon shaft. Invisible tourbillon bridge. Compensating balance spring with Breguet overcoil. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in platinum. Diameter : 40 mm.
130 // C L A S S I Q U E G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
3755PR/1E/9V6 Classique “Grande Complication” openworked wristwatch in platinum, with tourbillon. Rosegilded hand-wound movement engraved by hand. Perpetual calendar showing the day, date, month and leap year. Running seconds on the tourbillon shaft. Compensating balance spring with Breguet overcoil. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 39 mm.
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3757BA/1E/9V6 Classique “Grande Complication” wristwatch in 18-carat yellow gold, with tourbillon. Hand-wound movement, engraved by hand. Perpetual calendar showing the day, date, month and leap year. Running seconds on the tourbillon shaft. Compensating balance spring with Breguet overcoil. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in platinum. Diameter : 39 mm.
3657BA/12/9V6
Available with yellow gold bracelet, ref. 3657BA/12/AV0.
Classique “Grande Complication” wristwatch in 18-carat yellow gold, with tourbillon. Hand-wound movement, engraved by hand. Power-reserve indicator and 24-hour time display. Running seconds on the tourbillon shaft. Compensating balance spring with Breguet overcoil. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in platinum. Diameter : 39 mm.
132 // C L A S S I Q U E G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
1801BB/12/2W6 Classique “Grande Complication” wristwatch in 18-carat white gold, with tourbillon. Hand-wound movement, engraved by hand. Running seconds on the tourbillon shaft. Compensating balance spring with Breguet overcoil. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Engineturned gold cover, inscribed “Tourbillon”. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 40.50 mm.
1801BR/12/2W6 Classique “Grande Complication” wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold, with tourbillon. Handwound movement, engraved by hand. Small seconds on the tourbillon shaft. Compensating balance spring with Breguet overcoil. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Engineturned gold cover, inscribed “Tourbillon”. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 40.50 mm.
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1808BR/92/9W6 DD00 Classique “Grande Complication” wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold, with tourbillon. Hand-wound movement, engraved by hand. Small seconds on the tourbillon shaft. Compensating balance spring with Breguet overcoil. Black rhodium gold dial, handengraved on a rose engine. Gold cover, inscribed “Tourbillon” and set with 706 diamonds, approx. 4.70 cts. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 40.50 mm.
134 // C L A S S I Q U E G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
The Classiques “Grandes Complications”. The Twin Rotating Tourbillon Watch. Technically and aesthetically innovative, it comes equipped with twin rotating tourbillon carriages powered by a hand-wound mechanical movement. Working independently from one another, the tourbillons are coupled via differential gears. These transmit the tourbillons’ mean rate to the rotating centre plate. The time of day is shown by an hour hand mounted on the mechanism bearing the pair of tourbillons and a standard minute hand at centre. Protected by a sapphire crystal, the back of this exceptional timepiece reveals the fascinating beauty of its movement, itself engraved with a representation of the solar system.
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5347PT/11/9ZU Classique “Grande Complication” wristwatch in platinum with twin rotating tourbillons. Two independent tourbillons affixed by a bridge to a centre plate completing a rotation in 12 hours. Balance springs with Breguet overcoil. Manually engraved hand-wound movement. Silvered gold chapter ring. Centre plate hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in rose gold. Diameter : 44 mm.
137 // C L A S S I Q U E G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
5347BR/11/9ZU Classique “Grande Complication” wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold, with twin rotating tourbillons. Two independent tourbillons affixed by a bridge to a centre plate completing a rotation in 12 hours. Balance springs with Breguet overcoil. Manually engraved hand-wound movement. Silvered gold chapter ring. Centre plate hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in platinum. Diameter : 44 mm.
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5349PT/11/9ZU DD0D Classique “Grande Complication” wristwatch in platinum, with twin rotating tourbillons. Two independent tourbillons affixed by a bridge to a centre plate completing a rotation in 12 hours. Balance springs with Breguet overcoil. Manually engraved hand-wound movement. Bezel, lugs and caseband paved with 107 baguette-cut diamonds, approx. 30.30 cts. Silvered gold chapter ring and centre plate paved with 310 diamonds, approx. 1.62 cts. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 50 mm.
139 // C L A S S I Q U E G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
The Classiques “Grandes Complications”. The Equation of time. From time immemorial, the Sun has served as the basis of time measurement. Nonetheless, the visible orbit of the Sun – the true solar time shown on sundials – is irregular. Thanks to improvements in horological accuracy, watches and clocks have now become the foundation of our timekeeping system and true solar time has been replaced by mean solar time in which all days are equal. The equation of time is the difference between these two times. Mean solar tune runs up to 16 minutes behind true solar time, as is the case on November 3; or up to 14 minutes ahead of it, as is the case on February 12. The two values are exactly matched on just four days a year. A.-L. Breguet made some remarkable watches indicating the equation of time, but Breguet has since refined the complication. The firm’s horologists have devised and patented a perpetual equation of time mechanism, combined with a perpetual calendar. Both are designed to function without correction for over two centuries.
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3477BR/1E/986 Classique “Grande Complication” wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold. Self-winding movement with perpetual equation of time, power-reserve indicator and perpetual calendar showing the day, date, month and leap year. Patented mechanism. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in yellow gold or platinum. Diameter : 35.50 mm.
141 // C L A S S I Q U E G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
The characteristic equation of time cam reflecting the representation of true solar time.
February 12 ~ +14 minutes
April 16
Representation of mean solar time Representation of true solar time
June 14 Sun December 25
November 3 ~ -16 minutes
September 1
This non-scientific diagram provides a conventional illustration of the difference between mean solar time ( in which all days have an equal 24-hour duration ) and true solar time ( according to which days have a variable duration ranging from 23 hours and 44 minutes to 24 hours and 14 minutes ). The term “equation of time” refers to the difference between mean solar time and true solar time, and an “equation of time watch” means a timepiece capable of displaying this difference.
143 // C L A S S I Q U E G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
The Classiques “Grandes Complications”. The minute repeater.
The leading horologists of the late 17th century vied to create a chiming watch that would allow the time to be known on
demand in the dark. Around 1680 they produced the first repeating watches. Since then, a number of watchmakers have contributed to the development of the repeater, improving its accuracy from the nearest quarter-hour to the nearest minute. A.-L. Breguet was responsible for a decisive invention in the development of the repeater. Replacing the bells of the early repeaters with strip-steel gongs curved around the movement, he greatly reduced the size of the repeating watch while retaining a good quality of sound.
A.-L. Breguet’s gongs are still essential to repeaters, while metallurgical advances have considerably improved their sound.
Building a minute repeater is the task of an experienced watchmaker. Along with a musical ear, it demands great manual dexterity. The slightest mistake can ruin hours of work.
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7637BB/12/9ZU Classique “Grande Complication” minute repeater wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Hand-wound movement, engraved by hand. Seconds subdial. 24-hour display with day and night sectors. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Also in rose gold. Diameter : 42 mm.
146 // C L A S S I Q U E G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
5447BB/1E/9V6 Classique “Grande Complication” minute repeater wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Hand-wound movement, engraved by hand with perpetual calendar showing the day, date, month, leap year and phases and age of the moon. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Diameter : 40 mm.
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5447BR/1E/9V6 Classique “Grande Complication” minute repeater wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold. Hand-wound movement, engraved by hand with perpetual calendar showing the day, date, month, leap year and phases and age of the moon. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Diameter : 40 mm.
148 // C L A S S I Q U E G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
7639BB/6D/9XV DD0D Classique “Grande Complication” minute repeater wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Hand-wound movement, engraved by hand. Bezel, caseband, repeating-lever and lugs set with 160 baguettecut diamonds, approx. 10.82 cts. Dial paved with 392 baguette-cut diamonds, approx. 6.73 cts, silvered gold chapter ring with 12 diamond hour-markers, approx. 0.017ct. Sapphire caseback. Diameter : 44.50 mm.
150 // C L A S S I Q U E G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
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1907BA/12 Classique “Grande Complication” pocket watch in 18-carat yellow gold, with grand strike and tourbillon. Manually engraved hand-wound movement with 2-way rotating crown. Off-centred chapter ring. Centre minute hand. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Diameter : 56.50 mm.
Engine-turning a case-back. Expressing a keen sense of detail, the caseback is engraved by an artisan who handles the engine-turning lathe with great sensitivity: the operation is performed by the craftsman’s hand, of which the instrument is but an extension.
153 // M A R I N E
The Marine Collection. Breguet, chronometer maker to the French Royal Navy.
Marine watches are based on the traditional Breguet values, while interpreting them in a contemporary way in order to
create sporty timepieces. The Marine watches possess all the qualities laid down by A.-L. Breguet as chronometer maker to the French Navy. A reinforced case and a protected crown make the Marine watches safe in action, while their workmanship and styling show that elegance always outranks fashion.
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5817ST/92/5V8
Available with steel bracelet, ref. 5817ST/92/SV0.
Marine wristwatch in steel. Self-winding movement with large date and centre seconds hand. Black rhodium gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Screw-locked crown. Waterresistant to 10 bar (100m). Diameter: 39mm.
155 // M A R I N E
5817ST/12/5V8 Marine wristwatch in steel. Self-winding movement with large date and centre seconds hand. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Screw-locked crown. Water-resistant to 10 bar ( 100 m ). Diameter : 39 mm.
Available with steel bracelet, ref. 5817ST/12/SV0.
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5817BA/12/9V8
Available with yellow gold bracelet, ref. 5817BA/12/AV0.
Marine wristwatch in 18-carat yellow gold. Selfwinding movement with large date and centre seconds hand. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Screw-locked crown. Water-resistant to 10 bar ( 100 m ). Diameter : 39 mm.
157 // M A R I N E
5817BR/Z2/5V8
Available with rose gold bracelet, ref. 5817BR/Z2/RV0.
Marine wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold. Self-winding movement with large date and centre seconds hand. Black rhodium gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Screw-locked crown. Water-resistant to 10 bar ( 100 m ). Diameter : 39 mm.
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5827BR/Z2/5ZU
Available with rose gold bracelet, ref. 5827BR/Z2/RM0.
Marine chronograph in 18-carat rose gold. Self-winding movement with date and seconds subdial. 15-minute sector. Centre chronograph minutes and seconds. Black rhodium gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Screw-locked crown. Water-resistant to 10 bar ( 100 m ). Diameter : 42 mm.
159 // M A R I N E
5827BB/12/5ZU Marine chronograph in 18-carat white gold. Self-winding movement with date and seconds subdial. 15-minute sector. Centre chronograph minutes and seconds. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Screw-locked crown. Water-resistant to 10 bar ( 100 m ). Also in yellow gold. Diameter : 42 mm.
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5827BB/12/BM0 Marine chronograph in 18-carat white gold. Self-winding movement with date and seconds subdial. 15-minute sector. Centre chronograph minutes and seconds. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Screw-locked crown. Water-resistant to 10 bar ( 100 m ). Also in yellow gold. Diameter : 42 mm.
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5857BR/Z2/5ZU
Available in steel with a silvered gold dial, ref. 5857ST/12/5ZU.
Marine GMT wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold. Self-winding movement. Second time-zone, 24-hour and date indications. Balance spring in silicon. Silvered gold and black rhodium dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 10 bar ( 100 m ). Diameter : 42 mm.
163 // M A R I N E
5847BB/92/BZ0
5847BR/32/5ZV Marine Royale alarm wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold. Self-winding movement with date. Alarm power-reserve indicator. Self-winding alarm on/off indicator. Rose-gilded gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Screw-locked crown. Water-resistant to 30 bar ( 300 m ). Diameter : 45 mm.
Available with rose gold bracelet, ref. 5847BR/32/RZ0.
Available with rubber strap, ref. 5847BB/92/5ZV. Available with silvered dial, ref. 5847BB/12/BZ0.
Marine Royale alarm wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Self-winding movement with date. Alarm power-reserve indicator. Self-winding alarm on/off indicator. Black rhodium gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Screw-locked crown. Water-resistant to 30 bar (300 m ). Diameter : 45 mm.
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5847BR/Z2/5ZV
Available with rose gold bracelet, ref. 5847BR/Z2/RZ0.
Marine Royale alarm wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold. Self-winding movement with date. Alarm power-reserve indicator. Self-winding alarm on/off indicator. Dial in slate grey rhodium-plated gold, handengraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Screw-locked crown. Water-resistant to 30 bar ( 300 m ). Diameter : 45 mm.
165 // M A R I N E
5847BB/12/5ZV
Available with white gold bracelet, ref. 5847BB/12/BZ0. Available with black dial, ref. 5847BB/92/5ZV.
Marine Royale alarm wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Self-winding movement with date. Alarm power-reserve indicator. Self-winding alarm on/off indicator. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Screw-locked crown. Water-resistant to 30 bar ( 300 m ). Diameter : 45 mm.
167 // M A R I N E G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
In 1795, Breguet bent the outer coil of a balance spring towards the balance-staff to form a carefully calculated curve. Thanks to their “Breguet overcoil”, balance springs could now develop concentrically, thereby improving timekeeping precision.
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5837BR/92/5ZU
Available with rose gold bracelet, ref. 5837BR/92/RZ0.
Marine chronograph “Grande Complication” in 18-carat rose gold, with tourbillon. Handwound movement. Balance spring, lever and escape wheel in silicon. Tourbillon carriage in titanium. Running seconds on the tourbillon shaft. 30-minute and 12-hour totalisers. Black rhodium dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 10 bar ( 100 m ). Diameter : 42 mm.
170 // M A R I N E G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
5837PT/U2/5ZU Marine chronograph “Grande Complication” in platinum, with tourbillon. Hand-wound movement. Balance spring, lever and escape wheel in silicon. Tourbillon carriage in titanium. Running seconds on the tourbillon shaft. 30-minute and 12-hour totalisers. Dial in silvered platinum-coated gold, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Waterresistant to 10 bar ( 100 m ). Diameter : 42 mm.
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5839BB/6D/9ZU DD0D Marine chronograph “Grande Complication” in 18-carat white gold, with tourbillon. Hand-wound movement. Balance spring, lever and escape wheel in silicon. Tourbillon carriage in titanium. Running seconds on the tourbillon shaft. 30-minute and 12-hour totalisers. Bezel, caseband, lugs, crown and pushpieces paved with 186 baguette-cut diamonds, approx. 11.77cts. Silvered gold dial, handengraved on a rose engine and set with 132 diamonds, approx. 0.35 ct. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 43 mm.
172 // M A R I N E
5829BR/8R/9ZU DD0D
Available with a 15-minute sector paved with baguette-cut diamonds, ref. 5829BR/8D/9ZU DD0D.
Marine chronograph in 18-carat rose gold. Self-winding movement with date and small seconds. Centre chronograph minutes and seconds. Bezel, lugs and caseband paved with 158 baguette-cut diamonds, approx. 10.45 cts . 15-minute sector paved with 55 baguette-cut rubies, approx. 1.12 cts. Natural mother-of-pearl dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Screw-locked crown. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 42 mm.
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5829BB/8D/9ZU DD0D
Available with a 15-minute sector paved with baguette-cut sapphires, ref. 5829BB/8S/9ZU DD0D.
Marine chronograph in 18-carat white gold. Self-winding movement with date and small seconds. Centre chronograph minutes and seconds. Bezel, lugs and caseband paved with 158 baguette-cut diamonds, approx. 10.45 cts . 15-minute sector paved with 55 baguette-cut diamonds, approx. 0.85 ct. Natural mother-of-pearl dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Sapphire caseback. Screw-locked crown. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Diameter : 42 mm.
174 // M A R I N E
8818BB/59/564 DD00 Marine wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Bezel and lugs set with 58 diamonds, approx. 1.25 cts. Self-winding movement. Natural mother-of-pearl dial, handengraved on a rose engine and set with 10 diamonds, approx. 0.025 ct. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in yellow gold. Diameter : 30 mm.
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8818BB/59/864 DD0D Marine wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Bezel and lugs set with 58 diamonds, approx. 1.25 cts. Self-winding movement. Natural mother-of-pearl dial, handengraved on a rose engine and set with 10 diamonds, approx. 0.025 ct. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in yellow gold. Diameter : 30 mm.
176 // M A R I N E
A masterpiece in miniature. The smallest self-winding chronograph movement in the world.
Women have demanded and inspired some of Breguet’s most spectacular achievements from the firm’s earliest days. The
Marie-Antoinette watch, for example, is one of the most important ( and sought-after ) timepieces in the history of horology. Noteworthy also is the first wristwatch, a Breguet invention for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples. It is thus for ladies’ watch that Breguet has stretched technical limits to create the smallest self-winding chronograph of its class. Full chronograph functions, governed precisely by a column-wheel and a self-winding movement with a date and running seconds interact in a 10 1/2 line calibre barely 6 mm thick. In a lady’s watchcase, the chronograph is transformed into a tiny, but perfect, mechanical jewel.
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8827ST/59/986 Marine chronograph in steel. Self-winding movement with date calendar and subdial for the seconds. 30-minute and 12-hour totalisers. Natural mother-of-pearl dial. Waterresistant to 5 bar ( 50 m ). Diameter : 34.60 mm.
178 // M A R I N E
8827BR/52/586 Marine chronograph in 18-carat rose gold. Self-winding movement with date calendar and subdial for the seconds. 30-minute and 12-hour totalisers. Natural mother-of-pearl dial, handengraved on a rose engine. Water-resistant to 5 bar ( 50 m ). Diameter : 34.60 mm.
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8828BB/5D/586 DD00 Marine chronograph in 18-carat white gold. Self-winding movement with date calendar and subdial for the seconds. 30-minute and 12-hour totalisers. Natural motherof-pearl dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine and set with 7 diamonds, approx. 0.0105 ct. Bezel and lugs set with 74 diamonds, approx. 1.16 cts. Water-resistant to 5 bar ( 50 m ). Diameter : 34.60mm.
8828BR/5D/586 DD00 Marine chronograph in 18-carat rose gold. Self-winding movement with date calendar and subdial for the seconds. 30-minute and 12-hour totalisers. Natural motherof-pearl dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine and set with 7 diamonds, approx. 0.0105 ct. Bezel and lugs set with 74 diamonds, approx. 1.16 cts. Water-resistant to 5 bar ( 50 m ). Diameter : 34.60mm.
Straightening. At the crossroads between finishing and decoration, straightening serves to create a satin-brushed effect on the parts, thus contributing to the play on aesthetic contrasts within the movement. The steel parts are held securely in their bases and hand-worked on emery paper.
182 // H É R I T A G E
Héritage collection. The curve that challenges technical mastery.
A Breguet watch does not need its conventional round case to be recognised for what it is. The Héritage models show that even
in a curved tonneau case, a Breguet remains unmistakably a Breguet. Adapting late 18 th century styling concepts to the shapes of the 21st century demands a great deal from design engineers, casemakers and dialmakers. But the perfect curves of the case and the delicately engine-turned dial set off the caseband fluting and exquisitely designed lugs to their best advantage.
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5480BB/12/996
Available with white gold bracelet, ref. 5480BB/12/BB0.
Héritage wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Curved tonneau-shaped case. Selfwinding movement with large date and running seconds. Curved silvered gold dial, handengraved on a rose engine. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in yellow or rose gold. Dimensions : 40.40 x 34 mm.
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5400BB/12/9V6 Héritage chronograph in 18-carat white gold. Curved tonneau-shaped case. Self-winding movement with date and small seconds. 30-minute and 12-hour totalisers. Curved silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in rose gold. Dimensions : 42 x 35 mm.
186 // H É R I T A G E G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
5497BR/12/9V6 Héritage “Grande Complication” wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold, with tourbillon. Curved tonneaushaped case. Hand-wound movement, engraved by hand. Small seconds on the tourbillon shaft. Compensating balance spring with Breguet overcoil. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Partial sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in platinum Dimensions : 42 x 35 mm.
Available with rose gold bracelet, ref. 5497BR/12/RB0.
188 // H É R I T A G E
3661BR/12/984 DD00 Héritage wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold. Curved tonneau-shaped case. Self-winding movement with running seconds. Bezel and lugs set with 56 diamonds, approx. 1.869 ct. Curved silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in white gold. Dimensions : 35 x 29.60 mm.
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3660BB/12/984 Héritage wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Curved tonneau-shaped case. Selfwinding movement with running seconds. Curved silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in rose gold. Dimensions : 35x 29.60 mm.
190 // H É R I T A G E
8861BB/11/386 D000
8860BR/11/RB0 Héritage wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold. Curved tonneau-shaped case. Self-winding movement. Retrograde moon-phase indicator. Balance-spring in silicon. Cambered frosted silvered and natural motherof-pearl dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in white gold. Dimensions : 35 x 25 mm.
Available with white gold bracelet, ref. 8861BB/11/BB0 D000.
Héritage wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Curved tonneau-shaped case. Bezel set with 140 diamonds, approx. 1.14 cts. Self-winding movement. Retrograde moon-phase indicator. Balance-spring in silicon. Cambered frosted silvered and natural motherof-pearl dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in rose gold. Dimensions : 35 x 25 mm.
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8860BR/11/386 Héritage wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold. Curved tonneau-shaped case. Self-winding movement. Retrograde moon-phase indicator. Balance-spring in silicon. Cambered frosted silvered and natural motherof-pearl dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in white gold. Dimensions : 35 x 25 mm.
Engraving an oscillating weight. Hand engraving is an art form that highlights the aesthetic beauty of the component and also endows it with unique character.
193 // R E I N E D E N A P L E S G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
Reine de Naples Collection. Breguet created the first wristwatch for a queen. Breguet creations have consistently attracted and fascinated women, including famous patrons such as Marie-Antoinette, Queen of France, the Marquise de Condorcet, and the Empress Josephine of France. The list of Breguet’s fervent female admirers also includes Caroline Murat, to whom he delivered in 1812 – two hundred years ago already – a model that was truly unprecedented at the time: the first wristwatch. Its oval shape was not less exceptional. The description meticulously recorded in the company archives hints at the refined and ingenious nature of this model: “oblong-shaped minute repeater watch (...), the said watch being fitted with a wristlet made of hair intertwined with gold thread”.
The models in the Reine de Naples line, anthems of praise to femininity, are inspired by this legendary creation: resolutely
modern, refined and suffused with an exquisitely poetic touch.
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8973BB/6S/8H4 SD0D Reine de Naples “Grande Complication” wristwatch in 18-carat white gold with hour strike. Bezel and lug set with 29 diamonds totalling approx. 0.918 ct and 27 blue sapphires totalling approx. 2.84 cts. Dial flange set with 77 diamonds, approx 0.16 ct. Alarm on/off indicator set with one diamond. Self-winding movement engraved by hand. Balance spring and lever in silicon. Dial paved with 156 diamonds, approx. 0.42 ct and with 303 blue sapphires, approx. 0.84 ct. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Dimensions : 40.10 x 32 mm.
195 // R E I N E D E N A P L E S G R A N D E S C O M P L I C A T I O N S
8978BB/58/974 D00D Reine de Naples “Grande Complication” wristwatch in 18-carat white gold with hour strike. Bezel set with 30 diamonds weighing approx. 2.93 cts. Alarm on/off indicator set with one diamond. Self-winding movement engraved by hand. Balance spring and lever in silicon. White natural mother-of-pearl dial. Off-centred chapter ring with Breguet Arabic numerals. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Dimensions : 38.45 x 30.40 mm.
197 // R E I N E D E N A P L E S
8908BB/52/864 D00D
Available with white gold bracelet, ref. 8908BB/52/J20 D000.
Reine de Naples wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Bezel and dial flange set with 128 diamonds weighing approx. 0.83 ct. Self-winding movement with running seconds. Power-reserve and moon-phase indicators. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine and partly in white natural motherof-pearl. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Dimensions : 36.50 x 28.45 mm.
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8908BA/52/864 D00D
Available with yellow gold bracelet, ref. 8908BA/52/J20 D000.
Reine de Naples wristwatch in 18-carat yellow gold. Bezel and dial flange set with 128 diamonds weighing approx. 0.83 ct. Self-winding movement with running seconds. Powerreserve and moon-phase indicators. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine and partly in white natural mother-of-pearl. Sapphire caseback. Waterresistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Dimensions : 36.50 x 28.45 mm.
199 // R E I N E D E N A P L E S
8908BB/5T/J70 D0DD Reine de Naples “gold thread” wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Bezel and dial flange set with 117 diamonds, totalling approx. 0.99 cts. Lugs set with 22 diamonds, approx. 0.22 cts. Self-winding movement with small seconds. Power-reserve and moon-phase indicators. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine, and partly in natural Tahitian mother-of-pearl. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Dimensions : 36.50 x 28.45 mm.
201 // R E I N E D E N A P L E S
8909BB/VD/J29 DDDD Reine de Naples wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Bezel and caseband paved with 86 baguette-cut diamonds, weighing approx. 6.85 cts. Self-winding movement. Power-reserve and moon-phase indicators. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine paved with 67 diamonds, approx. 0.168 ct, and partly in blue natural mother-of-pearl. Bracelet set with 650 diamonds, approx. 3.661 cts, 151 baguette-cut diamonds, approx. 5.538 cts, and 11 diamonds, approx. 1.188 cts. Sapphire caseback. Dimensions : 38.50 x 30.45 mm.
8909BB/VD/864 D00D Reine de Naples wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Bezel and caseband paved with 89 baguette-cut diamonds, weighing approx. 7.12 cts. Self-winding movement. Power-reserve and moon-phase indicators. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine paved with 67 diamonds, approx. 0.168 ct, and partly in blue natural motherof-pearl. Sapphire caseback. Dimensions : 38.50 x 30.45 mm.
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8909BB/VD/J29 DDD0 Reine de Naples wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Bezel and caseband paved with 86 baguette-cut diamonds, weighing approx. 6.85 cts. Self-winding movement. Power-reserve and moon-phase indicators. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine paved with 67 diamonds, approx. 0.168 ct, and partly in blue natural mother-of-pearl. Bracelet set with 650 diamonds, approx. 3.661 cts, 151 baguette-cut diamonds, approx. 5.538 cts, and 11 sapphire cabochons, approx. 1.705 cts. Sapphire caseback. Dimensions : 38.50 x 30.45 mm.
203 // R E I N E D E N A P L E S
8909BB/5D/J21 RRRR Reine de Naples wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Bezel and caseband set with 48 baguette-cut rubies, approx. 4.31cts and 38 baguette-cut diamonds, approx. 2.80 cts. Self-winding movement. Power-reserve and moon-phase indicators. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine and paved with 67 diamonds, approx. 0.168 ct, and partly in white natural motherof-pearl. Bracelet set with 371 diamonds, approx. 1.949 cts and 11 oval rubies, approx. 1.56 cts. Sapphire caseback. Dimensions : 38.50 x 30.45 mm.
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Polishing gives the case its inimitable sheen without altering its original proportions. A painstaking manual process, perfect polishing demands an experienced eye and hand.
205 // R E I N E D E N A P L E S
8918BB/58/J39 D00D
Available with a white gold bracelet set with diamonds, ref. 8918BB/58/J31 D0DD.
Reine de Naples wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Bezel and dial flange set with 117 diamonds weighing approx. 0.99 ct. Self-winding movement. Silvered gold dial, handengraved on a rose engine and partly in white natural mother-of-pearl. Breguet Arabic numerals. Pearcut diamond, approx. 0.09 ct, at 6 o’clock. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in yellow gold. Dimensions : 36.50 x 28.45 mm.
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8918BB/58/864 D00D Reine de Naples wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Bezel and dial flange set with 117 diamonds weighing approx. 0.99 ct. Self-winding movement. Silvered gold dial, handengraved on a rose engine and partly in white natural mother-of-pearl. Breguet Arabic numerals. Pear-cut diamond, approx. 0.09 ct, at 6 o’clock. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in yellow gold. Dimensions : 36.50 x 28.45 mm
8918BR/58/864 D00D
Available with white gold bracelet, ref. 8918BB/58/J20 D000.
Available with rose gold bracelet, ref. 8918BR/58/J20 D000.
Reine de Naples wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold. Bezel and dial flange set with 117 diamonds weighing approx. 0.99 ct. Self-winding movement. Silvered gold dial, handengraved on a rose engine and partly in white natural mother-of-pearl. Breguet Arabic numerals. Pear-cut diamond, approx. 0.09 ct, at 6 o’clock. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in yellow gold. Dimensions : 36.50 x 28.45 mm
208 // R E I N E D E N A P L E S
8918BR/58/J20 D000
Available with satin strap, ref. 8918BR/58/864 D00D.
Reine de Naples wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold. Bezel and dial flange set with 117 diamonds weighing approx. 0.99 ct. Self-winding movement. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine and partly in white natural mother-of-pearl. Breguet Arabic numerals. Pear-cut diamond, approx. 0.09 ct, at 6 o’clock. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in yellow or white gold. Dimensions : 36.50 x 28.45 mm
210 // R E I N E D E N A P L E S
8939BB/6D/864 DD0D Reine de Naples wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Bezel and caseband set with 91 baguette-cut diamonds, approx. 6.65 cts. Self-winding movement. Chapter ring paved with 42 baguette-cut diamonds, approx. 2.77 cts, and hour markers in natural mother-of-pearl. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Pear-cut diamond, approx. 0.09 ct, at 6 o’clock. Sapphire caseback. Dimensions : 38.50 x 30.45 mm.
8939BB/6D/J61 DDDD Reine de Naples wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Bezel and caseband set with 76 baguette-cut diamonds, approx. 6.06 cts. Self-winding movement. Chapter ring paved with 42 baguette-cut diamonds, approx. 2.77 cts, and hour markers in natural mother-of-pearl. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Pear-cut diamond, approx. 0.09 ct, at 6 o’clock. Bracelet paved with 320 diamonds, approx.14.05 cts. Sapphire caseback. Dimensions : 38.50 x 30.45 mm.
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8939BB/6D/J49 DD0D Reine de Naples wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Bezel and caseband set with 76 baguette-cut diamonds, approx. 6.06 cts. Self-winding movement. Chapter ring paved with 42 baguette-cut diamonds, approx. 2.77 cts, and hour markers in natural mother-of-pearl. Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine. Pear-cut diamond, approx. 0.09 ct, at 6 o’clock. Bracelet with pink Akoya pearls. Sapphire caseback. Dimensions : 38.50 x 30.45 mm.
212 // R E I N E D E N A P L E S
8928BB/51/J60 DD0D Reine de Naples “Charleston” wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Bezel, dial flange and lug set with 139 diamonds totalling approx. 1.32 cts. Self-winding movement. Balance spring in silicon. White natural mother-of-pearl dial. Offcentred chapter ring with Roman numerals. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Dimensions : 33 x 24.95 mm.
8928BA/51/J60 DD0D Reine de Naples “Charleston” wristwatch in 18-carat yellow gold. Bezel, dial flange and lug set with 139 diamonds totalling approx. 1.32 cts. Self-winding movement. Balance spring in silicon. White natural mother-of-pearl dial. Offcentred chapter ring with Roman numerals. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Dimensions : 33 x 24.95 mm.
214 // R E I N E D E N A P L E S
8928BB/51/844 DD0D
Available with white gold bracelet, ref. 8928BB/51/J20 DD00.
Reine de Naples wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Bezel, dial flange and lug set with 139 diamonds totalling approx. 1.32 cts. Self-winding movement. Balance spring in silicon. White natural mother-of-pearl dial. Off-centred chapter ring with Roman numerals. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in yellow and rose gold. Dimensions : 33 x 24.95 mm.
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8928BB/8D/844 DD0D Reine de Naples wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Bezel, dial flange and lug set with 139 diamonds totalling approx. 1.32 cts. Self-winding movement. Balance spring in silicon. Silvered gold dial paved with 211 diamonds, approx. 0.63 ct. Off-centred chapter ring in natural mother-of-pearl with Breguet numerals. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in yellow and rose gold. Dimensions : 33 x 24.95 mm.
8928BB/8D/J20 DD00 Reine de Naples wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Bezel, dial flange and lug set with 139 diamonds totalling approx. 1.32 cts. Self-winding movement. Balance spring in silicon. Silvered gold dial paved with 211 diamonds, approx. 0.63 ct. Off-centred chapter ring in natural mother-of-pearl with Breguet numerals. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in yellow and rose gold. Dimensions : 33 x 24.95 mm.
217 // R E I N E D E N A P L E S
8928BB/51/J20 DD00
Available with satin strap, ref. 8928BB/51/844 DD0D.
Reine de Naples wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Bezel, dial flange and lug set with 139 diamonds totalling approx. 1.32 cts. Self-winding movement. Balance spring in silicon. White natural mother-of-pearl dial. Off-centred chapter ring with Roman numerals. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in yellow gold. Dimensions : 33 x 24.95 mm.
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8928BR/51/J20 DD00
Available with satin strap, ref. 8928BR/51/844 DD0D.
Reine de Naples wristwatch in 18-carat rose gold. Bezel, dial flange and lug set with 139 diamonds totalling approx. 1.32 cts. Self-winding movement. Balance spring in silicon. White natural mother-of-pearl dial. Off-centred chapter ring with Roman numerals. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Also in yellow gold. Dimensions : 33 x 24.95 mm.
219 // R E I N E D E N A P L E S A C I E R
When steel reinterprets the most emblematic exclusively feminine Breguet models.
In response to the demands of today’s woman, it sheds the classic visual characteristics of the Reine de Naples collection to
opt for the elegance of an oversized dial adorned with geometrical-patterned and undulating calligraphy-style raised numerals. The sparkle of diamonds gives way to the shimmering gleam of the sturdy metal embracing the exquisite mother-of-pearl... The magic weaves its spell, giving rise to a resolutely contemporary and daringly contrasted model.
// 220
8967ST/58/986
Also with blue natural mother-of-pearl dial, ref. 8967ST/V8/986.
Reine de Naples wristwatch in steel. Self-winding movement. Balance spring and escapement in silicon. White natural mother-of-pearl dial with Breguet Arabic numerals. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Dimensions : 43.75 x 35.50 mm.
221 // R E I N E D E N A P L E S
Reine de Naples Cammea. Breguet honours the hand-crafted cameo carving tradition.
The Reine de Naples Cammea features an unusual encounter between two arts: haute horlogerie and cameo carving, of which the
international capital, Torre del Greco, is located in the region of Naples. Distinguished by its unique nature, the cameo dial is a true miniature sculpted in genuine seashell. Off-centred at 6 o’clock, the hour and minute hands seem to make themselves as discreet as possible so as to let the cameo fully express its resplendent beauty. Using a simple steel stylus, the craftsman carves the different layers of shell material to a depth of no more than two millimetres, achieving a sculpture of uncommon fineness. To achieve this, he carefully selects and examines the shell’s various hues, its stratification, its perspectives and shadings as well as its overall transparency.
// 222
8958BB/51/974 D00D Reine de Naples wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Bezel set with 40 diamonds, approx. 2.42 cts. Self-winding movement. Dial made out of seashell, crafted as a cameo. Waterresistant to 3 bar ( 30 m ). Dimensions : 40 x 31.95 mm.
224 // H I G H J E W E L L E R Y
In salute to the contemporary woman. An homage to her sensibility and a celebration of her elegance.
From the very first, Breguet’s timepieces have captured the inner grace and harmony that cast women in the exalted role of
poet’s muse, inspiring artists and enthralling writers. Through the centuries, the spellbinding beauty, refinement and cultural significance of its designs have never failed to appeal to discerning women everywhere. Aesthetic excellence and superlative technical construction have thus earned watches by Breguet a fabled role in the life of history’s most illustrious women, including Marie-Antoinette, Queen of France, and Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples.
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GJE25BB20.8989FB1 “Crazy Flower Full Baguette”. Reine de Naples wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Caseband set with 193 petals of diamond baguette on a mobile setting, totalling approx. 58.87 cts. Dial flange set with 66 diamonds, approx. 0.13 ct. Balance spring in silicon. Inward-sloping dial paved with 206 diamonds totalling approx. 0.80 ct. Bracelet set with 130 baguette-cut diamonds, approx. 22.10 cts. Off-centred chapter ring set with 20 baguette-cut diamonds, approx. 0.46 ct. Self-winding movement. Sapphire caseback. Dimensions : 33 x 24.95 mm.
227 // H I G H J E W E L L E R Y
GJE25BB20.8989DB1 Crazy Flower. Reine de Naples wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Caseband set with 116 petals of diamond baguette on a mobile setting, totalling approx. 34.57 cts. Dial flange set with 66 diamonds, approx. 0.13 ct. Balance spring in silicon. Inward-sloping dial paved with 206 diamonds totalling approx. 0.80 ct. Off-centred chapter ring set with 20 baguette-cut diamonds, approx. 0.46 ct. Self-winding movement. Sapphire caseback. Dimensions : 33 x 24.95 mm.
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GJE26BB20.8589DB1 Petite Fleur. Wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Caseband set with 43 petals of diamond baguette on a mobile setting, totalling approx. 12.60 cts. Dial flange set with 48 diamonds, approx. 0.10 ct. Balance spring in silicon. Dial paved with 141 diamonds, approx. 0.52 ct. Self-winding movement. Sapphire caseback. Diameter: 17mm.
229 // H I G H J E W E L L E R Y
GJE16BB20.8924R** Marie-Antoinette “Dentelle”. Wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Bezel, dial flange and lug paved with 245 diamonds, totalling approx. 3.36cts. Lacework paved with 89 diamonds, approx. 5.30cts and set with a ruby, approx. 1.30cts. Selfwinding movement. Balance spring in silicon. Silvered gold dial, set with 123 diamonds, approx. 0.30cts, partly in white natural mother-of-pearl. Sapphire caseback. Water-resistant. Dimensions : 33.5 x 26.45 mm.
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GJE20BB20.8924D01 Les Jardins du Petit Trianon Les Glycines. Wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Bezel, dial flange, caseband and lug paved with 284 diamonds totalling approx. 3.81 cts. Bow motif set with 6 pear-shaped diamonds weighing approx. 1.42ct and paved with 71 diamonds representing approx. 4.17 cts. Balance spring in silicon. Self-winding movement. Dial in silvered gold and white natural mother-of-pearl. Sapphire caseback. Dimensions : 33 x 24.95 mm.
231 // H I G H J E W E L L E R Y
GJE23BB20.8924D** Le Petit Trianon. Wristwatch in 18-carat white gold. Bezel, caseband, dial flange and lugs paved with 294 diamonds, approx. 3.22 cts, 2 princess-cut diamonds, approx. 0.815 ct and one emerald-cut diamond, approx. 2.01 cts. Self-winding movement. Balance spring in silicon. Silvered gold dial paved with 211 diamonds, approx. 0.63 ct. Off-centred chapter ring in natural mother-of-pearl with Breguet Arabic numerals. Sapphire caseback. Dimensions : 33.20 x 26.15 mm.
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GJE15BB20.8924M01 Rêve de Plume. Reine de Naples wristwatch in 18-carat white gold paved with 940 diamonds, approx. 19.91 cts. Self-winding movement. Balance spring in silicon. Dial in silvered gold and white natural mother-ofpearl. Sapphire caseback. Dimensions : 33 x 24.95 mm.
233 // H I G H J E W E L L E R Y
GJE15BB20.8924E01 Plumes. Reine de Naples wristwatch in 18-carat white gold paved with 322 emeralds totalling approx. 7.71cts, 8 baguette-cut diamonds, approx 2.22 cts and 1,193 diamonds weighing approx. 33.84 cts. Self-winding movement. Balance spring in silicon. Dial in silvered gold and white natural mother-of-pearl. Sapphire caseback. A choice of versions is available on request. Dimensions : 33 x 24.95 mm.
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GJE15BB20.8924DJ1 Plumes. Reine de Naples wristwatch in 18-carat white gold paved with 341 yellow diamonds totalling approx. 10.87cts, 8 baguette-cut diamonds, approx 2.22 cts and 1,395 diamonds weighing approx. 33.83 cts. Self-winding movement. Balance spring in silicon. Dial in silvered gold and white natural mother-of-pearl. Sapphire caseback. A choice of versions is available on request. Dimensions : 33 x 24.95 mm.
Chamfering on a lathe. This finish is performed by hand on a lathe equipped with various grinding wheels, and requires considerable dexterity: since a substantial amount of matter is removed, any mistakes would be hard to correct. The ultimate stage of this finish consists of polishing the chamfered part with a rubber block that gives the chamfer its full radiance.
236 // T Y P E X X - T Y P E X X I
An uncompromising look. The Type XX and Type XXI Breguet chronographs.
Designed in the 1950s for the French naval air arm, the Type XX returns to the Breguet collection in a civilian version fitted with
a self-winding movement. Its chronograph, however, retains the flyback function needed for flying search patterns. Its uncompromising looks and strong construction have made the Type XX popular among those seeking an original and technical sports watch. Breguet makes Type XX watches in two versions : the Aéronavale and the Transatlantique, with date indication. Its Type XXI design features a flyback minute totaliser at centre and a 24-hour time display.
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3800ST/92/9W6 Type XX Aéronavale flyback chronograph in steel. Selfwinding movement, subdial for the seconds. 30-minute and 12-hour totalisers. Graduated turning bezel. Luminous hands and numerals. Screw-locked crown. Water-resistant to 10 bar ( 100 m ). Diameter : 39 mm.
3800ST/92/SW9 Type XX Aéronavale flyback chronograph in steel. Selfwinding movement, subdial for the seconds. 30-minute and 12-hour totalisers. Graduated turning bezel. Luminous hands and numerals. Screw-locked crown. Water-resistant to 10 bar ( 100 m ). Diameter : 39 mm.
238 // T Y P E X X T R A N S A T L A N T I Q U E
3820ST/H2/9W6 Type XX Transatlantique flyback chronograph in steel. Self-winding movement with date and subdial for the seconds. 30-minute and 12-hour totalisers. Graduated turning bezel. Luminous hands and numerals. Screw-locked crown. Water-resistant to 10 bar ( 100 m ). Diameter : 39 mm.
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3820ST/H2/SW9 Type XX Transatlantique flyback chronograph in steel. Self-winding movement with date and subdial for the seconds. 30-minute and 12-hour totalisers. Graduated turning bezel. Luminous hands and numerals. Screw-locked crown. Water-resistant to 10 bar ( 100 m ). Diameter : 39 mm.
240 // T Y P E X X I
3810ST/92/9ZU Type XXI flyback chronograph in steel with elapsed-minute register on a centre hand. Self-winding movement with date and subdial for the seconds. Day/night indicator and 12-hour totaliser. Graduated turning bezel. Luminous hands and numerals. Screw-locked crown. Water-resistant to 10 bar ( 100 m ). Diameter : 42 mm.
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3810ST/92/SZ9 Type XXI flyback chronograph in steel with elapsed minute register on a centre hand. Self-winding movement with date and subdial for the seconds. Day/night indicator and 12-hour totaliser. Graduated turning bezel. Luminous hands and numerals. Screw-locked crown. Water-resistant to 10 bar ( 100 m ). Diameter : 42 mm.
3810BR/92/9ZU Type XXI flyback chronograph in 18-carat rose gold with elapsed minute register on a centre hand. Self-winding movement with date and subdial for the seconds. Day/night indicator and 12-hour totaliser. Graduated turning bezel. Luminous hands and numerals. Screw-locked crown. Water-resistant to 10 bar ( 100 m ). Diameter : 42 mm.
242 // T Y P E X X I
3810TI/H2/TZ9 Type XXI flyback chronograph in titanium with elapsed minute register on a centre hand. Self-winding movement with date and subdial for the seconds. Day/night indicator and 12-hour totaliser. Graduated turning bezel. Luminous hands and hour-markers. Screw-locked crown. Water-resistant to 10 bar ( 100 m ). Diameter : 42 mm.
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3810TI/H2/3ZU Type XXI flyback chronograph in titanium with elapsed minute register on a centre hand. Self-winding movement with date and subdial for the seconds. Day/night indicator and 12-hour totaliser. Graduated turning bezel. Luminous hands and hour-markers. Screw-locked crown. Water-resistant to 10 bar ( 100 m ). Diameter : 42 mm.
245 // T Y P E X X I I
World First at 10Hz. When the Type XXII redefines the notion of precision.
The Breguet Type XXII chronograph offers an aesthetic reinterpretation of the legendary Type XX, but above all embodies a
high-precision achievement. This creation is equipped with the first and only series-made mechanical chronograph movement with a silicon escapement and balance spring boasting a frequency raised to 10 Hz, meaning 72,000 vibrations per hour. This extremely high frequency endows the Type XXII with exceptional accuracy and rating efficiency, thus enabling it to mark off 1/20ths of a second. The seconds hand performs a complete rotation in 30 seconds. This technical feat is made possible by the use of silicon, which serves to lighten the weight of the mobile escapement components and to reduce the lubrication constraints linked to such high frequencies.
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3880ST/H2/3XV Type XXII flyback chronograph in steel with seconds hands on a 30-second basis at the centre. Half-minute totaliser at the centre. High-frequency escapement in silicon (10Hz ). Breguet balance wheel with timing screws. Balance spring, lever and escape wheel in silicon. Self-winding movement with date and small seconds on a 30-second basis. 24-hour indicator and second timezone indicator. Two-way rotating and graduated bezel. Luminous hands and numerals. Screw-locked crown. Water-resistant to 10 bar ( 100 m ). Partial sapphire caseback. Diameter : 44mm.
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3880ST/H2/SX0 Type XXII flyback chronograph in steel with seconds hands on a 30-second basis at the centre. Half-minute totaliser at the centre. High-frequency escapement in silicon (10Hz ). Breguet balance wheel with timing screws. Balance spring, lever and escape wheel in silicon. Self-winding movement with date and small seconds on a 30-second basis. 24-hour indicator and second timezone indicator. Two-way rotating and graduated bezel. Luminous hands and numerals. Screw-locked crown. Water-resistant to 10 bar ( 100 m ). Partial sapphire caseback. Diameter : 44 mm.
250 // A D I C T I O N A R Y O F P A S S I O N
Glossary. • Breguet spring. The spiral hairspring on which the balance swings on itself. As it expands and contracts, its coils tend to cluster alternately at either of its extremities. This constant shift in its centre of gravity negatively affects the rate of the balance. In 1795, A.-L. Breguet solved the problem by upraising the spring’s last coil and reducing its curvature. Called the “Breguet overcoil”, it forced the spring to develop concentrically, reducing the wear on the balance pivot, thus improving the movement’s precision. Breguet springs are still widely used in the finest wristwatches. Breguet further contributed to balance spring performance with a temperature-compensating device featuring a bimetallic blade. • Calibre. Since the early 18th century, the calibre of a movement has denoted the position and size of its different components, notably the wheel train and the barrel. Today, the term is used more generally to refer to the shape of the movement, its origins or its maker. • Chronograph. A watch that both measures and displays elapsed times and shows conventional time. The chronograph mechanism, driven by the movement of the watch, controls a centre seconds hand that can be started and stopped to time an event. A subsidiary dial records the elapsed minutes. Two pushpieces in the caseband serve to operate and return the chronograph to zero. • Chronometer. A precision watch with a movement that has been rated by an observatory or official testing laboratory. The standard procedure involves measuring the performance of the movement at different temperatures and in different positions for 15 consecutive days. Movements that meet the standard are issued a chronometer certificate. In Switzerland, these are issued by the COSC, the official chronometer-testing organisation. • Escapement. The device at the heart of virtually all time-keeping mechanisms. It provides the impulses to maintain the oscillations of the balance wheel or pendulum, which in turn governs the rate at which the escapement lets the wheels and the hands of the watch revolve. The main escapement used by A.- L. Breguet were, in turn . 1. the lever escapement, still universally used. The lever divides into two pallets
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which lock and unlock the escape-wheel teeth. The action is governed by the balance engaging the other end of the lever. The escape teeth sliding on the inclined pallets lift the lever to impulse the balance. 2. the ruby cylinder, which Breguet perfected. The teeth of the escape wheel engage the inside and outside of a vertical hollow cylinder swinging on the balance-staff. The impulse is given by the inclined teeth of the escape wheel on the lip of the ruby cylinder. A.- L. Breguet experimented with various escapements, developing his own designs – a natural-lift, oil-free escapement in 1789, and a constant-force escapement in 1795. • Flyback ( retour en vol ). A chronograph which restarts the instant it is brought back to zero. It is particularly useful for pilots. Actioning the lower pushpiece only, they can time each successive leg of a search pattern, for example. Without this feature, they would have to use two pushpieces to stop, return to zero and restart the chronograph while starting a new leg. • Fusee-chain transmission. The fusee-chain transmission system improves rate regularity by guaranteeing constant torque to the movement whatever the degree of wind of its mainspring ( a mechanical watch mainspring’s torque generally varies in step with its degree of wind ). The cone-shaped fusee contains differential gears that transmit continuous force to the movement. When its mainsprings are fully wound ( i.e. with the chain wound all the way to the top of the fusee ) and traction strength is high, the chain linking the barrel to the fusee coils itself around the narrowest part of the fusee. On the contrary, when the mainsprings are partially slack and their torque is weaker, the chain will coil around the broadest part of the fusee. • Grand strike. Strikes hours and quarter-hours automatically ; on request, can also be made to repeat hours, quarter hours and minutes by actioning a slide-bolt.
252 // A D I C T I O N A R Y O F P A S S I O N
• Minute repeater. A watch that strikes the hours, quarters and minutes on gongs. The repeater is activated by a slide in the caseband. • Pare-chute ( shock absorber ). The old term for a device to prevent the delicate pivots of the balance wheel snapping under shock. A.-L. Breguet’s solution was to hold the pivot point in a concave cap-jewel held on a blade spring. A violent blow caused the pivot point to slide in the hollow of the jewel, displacing it on its spring. The reduced shock could then be taken on the thicker shoulder of the balance staff. Also known as a sprung-balance suspension, A.-L. Breguet’s invention is the ancestor of modern shock proofing for watches, such as the Incabloc system. • Pendule sympathique (clock and watch combination ). Conceived by A.- L. Breguet in 1795 and unveiled at France’s National Exhibition of 1798, it consists of a pocket watch that sets and adjusts itself by a clock. The watch fits in a cradle on the clock. At 12 o’clock, the clock releases a mechanism inside the watch which sets the watch to the same time. The watch determines the amount of error and adjusts its rate faster or slower accordingly. A.-L. Breguet went on to develop even more ingenious versions that set and wound the watch hourly or daily. In the latest development, dating from 1991, the clock sets and winds a wristwatch. • Perpetual calendar. Showing the date, the day and the month, a watch or clock calendar is described as perpetual when it can automatically adjust for short and long months as well as for leap years. • Perpétuelle ( self-winding ) watches. The name given by A.- L. Breguet to watches that are automatically wound in the pocket while the wearer is walking or riding. A sprung weight on a pivoting arm jumps up and down to wind the mainspring. The modern self-winding wristwatch has a spinning weight. • Power-reserve ( up-down ) indicator. An indication of the state of wind of the mainspring. A hand on the dial points to the number of hours
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the movement will go before it runs down. A.- L. Breguet fitted his first perpétuelle self-winding watches from 1780 with this device, showing a maximum of 60 hours’ power reserve on a sector on the dial. The power-reserve indicator is still used in certain types of watches. • Repeating gong. For chiming watches, A.- L. Breguet replaced the bulky bells with resonant steel bars curved around the movement. His development of the gong, dating from 1783, revolutionised the design of repeating watches, allowing them to be made much thinner. • Split-seconds chronograph. A chronograph with two centre seconds hands. The extra hand runs concurrently with the main chronograph hand but can be stopped independently then made to catch up with the running chronograph. The split-seconds mechanism thus records the successive times of events that start together. The modern chronograph has its origins in the “observatory chronometer with twin seconds” devised by A.- L. Breguet in 1820. It could record intermediary times or the duration of two concurrent events. • Strike governor. A device ensuring a regular tempo for chiming watches. • Tachometric scale. Dial divisions enabling speeds to be read in kilometres per hour or in another unit. • Tact watch. An invention of A.-L. Breguet enabling the time to be felt on a watch. A hand on the back or front of the case can be moved until it blocks. Its position – and thus the time – can be felt against hour-markers studding the case. • Tourbillon. A.-L. Breguet was granted a patent for his best known invention on June 26, 1801 ( 7 Messidor, Year 9 of the French Republican calendar ). The tourbillon compensates for differences in rate caused by a watch adopting different positions. The principle is to mount the balance and escapement in a rotating carriage. They revolve about their common axis, going through all positions to average out the errors. Tourbillon carriages or platforms usually rotate once a minute, but four-minute or six-minute tourbillons are also found.
254 //
Reference index 1801BB/12/2W6 1801BR/12/2W6 1808BR/92/9W6 DD00 1907BA/12 3137BA/11/986 3355PT/00/986 3357BR/12/986 3358BB/2Y/986 DD0D 3358BB/52/986 DD00 3477BR/1E/986 3657BA/12/9V6 3660BB/12/984 3661BR/12/984 DD00 3755PR/1E/9V6 3757BA/1E/9V6 3800ST/92/9W6 3800ST/92/SW9 3810BR/92/9ZU 3810ST/92/9ZU 3810ST/92/SZ9 3810TI/H2/3ZU 3810TI/H2/TZ9 3820ST/H2/9W6 3820ST/H2/SW9 3880ST/H2/3XV
p.138 p.138 p.139 p.159 p.91 p.125 p.124 p.126 p.127 p.147 p.137 p.201 p.200 p.136 p.137 p.255 p.255 p.259 p.258 p.259 p.261 p.260 p.256 p.257 p.265
3880ST/H2/SX0 5140BA/12/9W6 5140BA/29/9W6 5140BB/12/9W6 5157BB/11/9V6 5177BB/29/9V6 5177BR/12/9V6 5178BR/29/9V6 D000 5207BA/12/9V6 5207BB/12/9V6 5207BB/12/BV0 5238BB/10/9V6 DD00 5247BR/12/9V6 5247BR/29/9V6 5317BR/12/9V6 5327BA/1E/9V6 5335BR/42/9W6 5347BR/11/9ZU 5347PT/11/9ZU 5349PT/11/9ZU DD0D 5357BA/1B/9V6 5357PT/12/9V6 5359BB/6B/9V6 DD0D 5400BB/12/9V6 5447BB/1E/9V6
p.267 p.80 p.80 p.81 p.71 p.78 p.77 p.79 p.83 p.82 p.83 p.108 p.105 p.107 p.121 p.111 p.135 p.144 p.141 p.145 p.131 p.130 p.132 p.197 p.154
5447BR/1E/9V6 p.155 5480BB/12/996 p.195 5497BR/12/9V6 p.198 5707BA/12/9V6 p.96 5707BB/12/9V6 p.97 5717BR/AS/9ZU p.114 5717PT/EU/9ZU p.113 5717PT/US/9ZU p.114 5719PT/AS/9ZV DD0D p.117 5817BA/12/9V8 p.165 5817BR/Z2/5V8 p.166 5817ST/12/5V8 p.164 5817ST/92/5V8 p.163 5827BB/12/5ZU p.168 5827BB/12/BM0 p.169 5827BR/Z2/5ZU p.167 5829BB/8D/9ZU DD0D p.183 5829BR/8R/9ZU DD0D p.182 5837BR/92/5ZU p.177 5837PT/U2/5ZU p.180 5839BB/6D/9ZU DD0D p.181 5847BB/12/5ZV p.174 5847BB/92/BZ0 p.172 5847BR/32/5ZV p.172 5847BR/Z2/5ZV p.173
// 255
5857BR/Z2/5ZU p.171 5907BA/12/984 p.74 5920BA/15/984 p.74 5930BA/12/986 p.75 5947BA/12/9V6 p.104 5967BA/11/9W6 p.76 6190AG/12 p.41 7027BB/G9/9V6 p.55 7027BR/G9/9V6 p.57 7027BR/R9/9V6 p.57 7037BA/11/9V6 p.58 7037BB/11/9V6 p.58 7047BA/11/9ZU p.66 7047BR/G9/9ZU p.67 7047PT/11/9ZU p.64 7057BB/11/9W6 p.59 7057BR/G9/9W6 p.60 7057BR/R9/9W6 p.61 7067BR/G1/9W6 p.63 7137BA/11/9V6 p.92 7337BR/1E/9V6 p.95 7637BB/12/9ZU p.151 7639BB/6D/9XV DD0D p.156 7787BB/12/9V6 p.87 7787BR/29/9V6 p.86
7800BA/11/9YV p.101 8067BA/52/964 p.84 8068BB/52/964 DD00 p.85 8068BB/52/BCO DD00 p.85 8788BR/29/986 DD00 p.89 8818BB/59/564 DD00 p.184 8818BB/59/864 DD0D p.185 8827BR/52/586 p.188 8827ST/59/986 p.187 8828BB/5D/586 DD00 p.189 8828BR/5D/586 DD00 p.194 8860BR/11/386 p.203 8860BR/11/RB0 p.202 8861BB/11/386 D000 p.202 8908BA/52/864 D00D p.211 8908BB/52/864 D00D p.210 8908BB/V2/864 D00D p.211 8909BB/5D/J21 RRRR p.216 8908BB/5T/J70 D0DD p.212 8909BB/VD/864 D00D p.214 8909BB/VD/J29 DDD0 p.215 8909BB/VD/J29 DDDD p.214 8918BB/58/864 D00D p.219 8918BB/58/J39 D00D p.218 8918BR/58/864 D00D p.219
8918BR/58/J20 D000 8928BA/51/J60 DD0D 8928BB/8D/844 DD0D 8928BB/8D/J20 DD00 8928BB/51/844 DD0D 8928BB/51/J20 DD00 8928BB/51/J60 DD0D 8928BR/51/J20 DD00 8939BB/6D/864 DD0D 8939BB/6D/J49 DD0D 8939BB/6D/J61 DDDD 8958BB/51/974 D00D 8967ST/58/986 8973BB/6S/8H4 SD0D 8978BB/58/974 D00D GJE15BB20.8924E01 GJE15BB20.8924DJ1 GJE15BB20.8924M01 GJE16BB20.8924R** GJE20BB20.8924D** GJE23BB20.8924D01 GJE25BB20.8989DB1 GJE25BB20.8989FB1 GJE26BB20.8589DB1
p.222 p.226 p.229 p.229 p.228 p.232 p.226 p.233 p.224 p.225 p.224 p.237 p.235 p.207 p.208 p.250 p.251 p.249 p.246 p.247 p.248 p.244 p.241 p.245
Breguet Boutiques Switzerland
USA
China
Hong Kong S.A.R.
Rue du Rhône 40 1204 GENEVA
711 Fifth Avenue NY 10022 NEW YORK
Shanghai Swatch Art Center Co.Ltd Peace Hotel Bund 19 (No.23, East Nanjing Road) 200002 SHANGHAI
Shop G05 & Shop 205 1881 Heritage, 2A Canton Road Tsimshatsui, Kowloon HONG KONG
Bahnhofstrasse 31 8001 ZURICH Bahnhofstrasse 1 3780 GSTAAD France 6, place Vendôme 75001 PARIS 26, la Croisette 06400 CANNES Austria
779 Madison Avenue NY 10065 NEW YORK 280 North Rodeo Drive CA 90210 BEVERLY HILLS Bellagio Las Vegas 3600 Las Vegas Blvd. South NV 89109 LAS VEGAS Bal Harbour Shops 9700 Collins Avenue FL 33154 BAL HARBOUR
Kohlmarkt 4 1010 VIENNA
United Arab Emirates
Italy
Mall of the Emirates / Level 1 Fashion Dome DUBAI
Via Montenapoleone 19 20121 MILAN United Kingdom
Dubai Mall DUBAI
10A, New Bond Street W1S 3SP LONDON
Etihad Towers ABU DHABI
Russia
Singapore
3, Red Square 109 012 MOSCOW Lenin Avenue 25 620014 EKATERINBURG
# B1-119 The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands 2 Bay Front Avenue 018972 SINGAPORE
Montres Breguet SA reserves the right to change models and prices.
No.168 Tai Cang Road Huang Pu District, 200021 SHANGHAI Ningbo Heyi Avenue Shopping Center, Shop 1048A, Zone C No.88, Heyi Road 315000 NINGBO Beijing Scitech Plaza No.22, Jianguomenwai Avenue 100004 BEIJING
Taiwan Taipei 101 4F, N°.45, Shifu Rd. Taipei TAIWAN 11001 Korea Hyundai Main 2F, Hyundai Dept. Store Apgujeong Main Branch 429 Apgujeong-dong Gangnam-gu 135-904 SEOUL
Park Life No.111-113 Beijing Park Life No.2 Jian Guo Men Wai Street Chao Yung District 100022 BEIJING
Galleria Main B1F, Galleria Luxury Hall 515 Apgujeong-dong Gangnam-gu 135-902 SEOUL
GFL Grand Hyatt Beijing No.1 East Chang An Avenue Dong Cheng District 100738 BEIJING
2F, Lotte Avenuel 130 Namdaemunno - 2ga Jung-gu 100-092 SEOUL
Macao Shop 2011, Level 3 Grand Canal Shoppes The Venetian Macao
Japan Nicolas G. Hayek Center 7-9-18 Ginza Chuo-ku 104-8188 TOKYO