Black - Decker the Complete Guide to Custom Shelves - Built-Ins+OCR

CUSTOM SHELVES &

Build Custom Add-ons to Create a One-of-a-Kind Home

by Theresa Coleman

Creative Publishing

rnemational CHANHASSE N, MINNESOTA www.crcativepub.com

NOTICE TO READERS

For safety, use caution, care and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book. The Publisher and Black & Decker cannot assume responsibility for any damage to propenty or injury to persons as a result of misuse of the information provided. The techniques shown in this book are genera l techniques for various applications. In some instances, additional techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers' instructions included with products, since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required: some may not be appropriate for al l do-it-yourselfers, and some may require professional help. Consult your local Building Department for information on building permits, codes and other laws as they apply to your project.

Copyright © 2007 Creative Publishing international, Inc. 18705 Lake Drive East Chanhassen, Minnesota 55317 1-800-328-3895 'WWVoJ.creativepub.com All rights reserved Printed at R.R. Donnelley 10987654321 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-publication Data Coleman, Theresa. The complete guide to custom shelves & built-ins: build custom add-ons to create a one-of-a-kind home / by Theresa Coleman. p,em. At head of title: Black & Decker.

Summary: "More than 30 step-by-step projects to help homeowners achieve custom built-ins that add function and style to any home decor"-- Provided by publisher. Includes index. ISBN-13: 978-' -58923-303-4 (soft cover) ISBN-10: 1-58923-303-4 (SoftCQver)

1. Built-in furniture. 2. Cabinetwork. 3. Shelving (Furniture) I. Title. II. Title: Black & Decker the complete guide to shelves & built-ins.

President/CEO: Ken Fund VP for Sales & Marketing: Peter Ackroyd Home Improvement Group

Publisher: Bryan Trandem Managing Editor: Tracy Stanley Senior Editor Mark Johanson Editor: Jennifer Gehlhar Creative Director: Michele Lanci-Altomare Senior Design Manager: Brad Springer Design Managers: Jon Simpson, Mary Rohl Director of Photography: Tim Himsel Lead Photographer: Steve Galvin Photo Coordinators: Julie Caruso, Joanne Wawra Shop Managers.' Randy Austin, Bryan McClain Production Managers: Laura Hokkanen, Linda Halls Page Layout Artist: Danlelle Smith Photographer: Joel Schnell Shop Help: Dan Anderson, Glenn Austin, Tami Helmer, John webb

TI197.5.8SC592007

684.1' 6--dc22 2007010500

The Complete Guide to Custom Shelves and Built-Ins Created by: The Editors of Creative Publishing international, Inc., in cooperation with Black & Decker. Black & Decker®is a trademark of The Black & Decker Corporation and is used under license.

Contents The Complete Guide to Custom Shelves & Built-Ins Introduction . . .. .... .. ... . 4

Installing a Post-form countertop .. . . 64

Shelving Projects . .. ... . . 180

portfolio of Built·1n & Shelving projects ....• . . .. ..... 7

Bu ilding a Custom Laminate Countertop . . .. . . .. . . .. . . .. . . .. 66

Shelving Basics ......... . ........ 182 Modular Shelving ......... . . ..... 184

Creating wood Countertop Edges .. . . 74 Installing Wire Shelving

Techniques & Design . ... . . 18 Tools & Materials ..... . .. . ...... .. 20

Built-In Projects . ........ . 78 Window Seat . . .. . . .. . . .. . . .. . . .. 80

Planning a Project ....... .. . . . .... 30 Bed surround ... . ..... . • ....... . . 88 Jobsite Preparation . . . . . .. . . .. . . . . 34

. . . . . 186

Formal Bookcase . . . .. . . .. .... . . . 188

Utility Shelves . . .. . . .. . . .. . . .. . . . 194 Cube Shelves . . .. . . .. . . .. . . . . . . . 198

Loft Bed . . . .. . .. . . . . .... . . . . . . .. 94 Closet Shelves . .. . . .... . . .. .. . . . 204

proiect Safety ............ . . . . .... 3S country Diner . . .. . . .. .... . . .. . . . 102

Joist Shelving . . .. . . .. . . .. .... . . . 206

Cutting & Fitting Joints . . . .. . . .. . . .. 36

wall Niche ........... . • ........ 11 2 Power Miter Saw Techn iques . .. . . .. 37

Establishing Level, Plumb & square ... 44

Bin & Shelving Unit. . . . . . .... . . . . . 210 Room Divider . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Trimwork Wa ll Shelves .

Laundry Center. . . .. .. . . • .

· . . 128

Towel Tower .. . .. . . .. . . . .

· . . 136

Basic Drawers . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . 48

understairs project

· .. 142

preparing for the Finish ............ 50

Hobby Center ... . ..... . • .

· . . 150

Installing Cabinets . . .. . . .. . . .. . . .. S4

Bath Cabinet. . . .. . . .. .. . . . . .. . . . 1S6

Creating a Kitchen Island .

Kneewall Cabinet .

Adding Doors . . .. . . . . . . .. . . .. . . .. 46

. ... 60

Making Countertops . .. . . .. . . .. . . .. 62

. . . . . 214

Box Beam Shelves . . .. . . .. . . .. . . . 222 Floor-to-Ceiling Shelves .

. . . . . 228

Resources .. .... ... .. . .. 234 Credits . ........... . .. . 235

. ........ 162

Metric Conversions . ... .. 236

Club Bar . . . .. . .. . . .. .... . . .. . . . 168

Index . . ........ ...... . 237

I

Introduction e t read y to Aex yo ur ca rpe ntry m uscle~ a nd im prove yo ur ho me w it h a little help from stock and sem i ~stock cabinets. Bui lt-ins a rc no longer just for kitchens . W ith the range of availa ble ca bi net sizes, finishes, and organization accessories avai lable in stock and sem istock styles, combini ng ca binets a nd standard s heet good s to create c ustom looks fo r yo ur favorite roo ms is a reali stic optio n to b uying the pre- made s he lves cllld h utc hes that everyo ne else in yo ur neig hbo rhood owns. We designed the one-of-a-kind projects in t hi s Comp le te Gu ide to live up to the essence of the t itle- "com p le te"- wit hou t ma king the projects too tough fo r weeke nd DlYe rs. The res ult: A var iety of fun projects fo r va ri o us ski ll levels v,lith a range of desig n styles fo r roo ms all over yo ur hOLise. If yo u like th e look of slee k urban style, c hec k out T he C lu b Bar (page 168) . Its s lick modular pa lette is a to tal atte ntion gra bbe r that you m igh t fi nd in a n avant-garde city hotel. T he classically appointed Formal Bookcase (page 188 ), on the ot he r hand, is D IY-fri endly project in spi red by traditi o na l hardwood libraries. C has in g the brass ring of good desig n inspired m o re th a n just a hip ~traditio n a l design ste\'v. It begged us to be min dful of the pe rmanence of th ese projec ts . Sure, the projects a re fun to c rea te, but we too k th e natu re of a built ~in serious ly. \A/hen yo u c rea te a built~in o r a dd shelving, it becomes part of you r home, part of your day-to-day rea lity- whet he r your bui lt- in is used to sto re laun dry dete rge nt, display c heris he d me me ntos, or cu rl up w ith <1 f<1vorite book. We c rafted projects that YO LI can build. projects w it h rock-sol id, real-vwrld assembl y an d fa bricatio n tech n iques. And, si nce ma ny of th e designs incl ude sem i ~s tock cab ine ts, the ca rpe ntry skill s needed a ren't

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furniture gr<:lde. Personally, I like to think of this gu ide CI S t he carpentry equ ivalent of using a cake mix: You still have to add a fe\\' of your ovm ingredients, but you get to skip a few steps \,v ith the pre~made mix. While yo u need the proper tools to comb ine all of th e pieces, yo u don 't need a professional workshop, <:IS man y of them comb ine pre-made cabinets v" ith on s ite carpent'Y that ra nges from simple to intermediate skill leve ls. Some projects call for so me fan cy fabri ca tion like the Country Diner (page 102 ) or the C lub Bar. Others , li ke the \-lobby Center (page 150 ), Lau ndry Center (page 128), and Window Seat (page 80) are tied togeth e r with un ique site-bui lt details that integrate the built-in into your space. For a different mix of skills needed, c heck out the Trim Molding She lves (page 214) and the Loft Bed (page 94). Eac h of t hese projects com bines ro ugh and fini sh ca rpe nt 'Y to create two totally c ustom built-ins.

6 • TH E COMPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS

You'll <:Ilso Ilnd super she lves, fu n furn iture, and spacious sto r<:lge projects for kid's room s, bath rooms, and utility spaces that ca n meet your needs today and grow \,vith yo u a nd yo ur family. In th e e nd, we hope that we've c rea ted a book th at Iives up to its name- not so mu ch on these pages, but in your home and in you r life. If yo u aren't inspired to c reate th at one-of-a-kind perfect-fit look fo r your house after flippin g through th e des igns \,ve've in cluded in the Complete Guide to Shelves & Built-Ins, yo u arc miss ing out on an opportunity fo r maximizing the "\t\1ow" from yo ur friends and fami ly. \!Ve hope you have as much fun building these projects as we did building t hi s book. Theresa Coleman

I Portfolio of Built-In & Shelving Projects

Built-ins add character and charm to any space. While built-ins can be

purely functional, they can also be decorative (as shown to the left) or combine functionality with a showcase element (as shown above). The type of built-in that works best for you and your home depends on your style and how you enJoy showing off prized treasures.

PortJolio of Rlli/t-11l & SIJeI!lillg Projects •

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Built-ins are more than just simple shelves and wall cabinets. Whether you are building a cozy kitchen nook (left), an underbed platform (below) or a storage cabinet that custom-fits your bathroom floorplan (right)' unique little extras like drawers and cubbies in oneof-a-kind built-in furniture can maximize storage options for every type of space.

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8 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS


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10 • TH E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTO M SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS

Bookshelves are one of the most popular types of built-in projects. Bookshelves don't have to just be showcased prominently in a formal living room, they also fit perfectly- and dramatically maximize smaller homes' storage potential- along hallways (opposite page). Built-in storage also can act as a visual room divider in larger spaces, creating the opportunity to display keepsakes that can be viewed from both rooms, and giving homeowners additional nooks to stow other items away (left). Even the smallest, simplest of shelves can greatly increase the amount of usable space (below) and add visual impact.


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Built-in projects aren't just for traditionalists. In the built-ins category

you will fi nd countless perfect projects and stock products that match the modern style of many of today's homes. A uniquely shaped room can benefit from a custom built-in couch that maximizes the space inside the frame. Drawers keep throw blankets handy for colder days, and games ready for guests. A kitchen with a view is a perfect spot to integrate an eating area without interrupting the floorplan or flow of the space. And for th e home office, there are many cabinets that offer semistock accessories, from file drawers and CD organizers to pull-out writing trays and office supply organization trays (right).

12 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES

& BU1LT-1NS


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The bathroom (opposite page) is a smaller space in most homes, and really benefits from some custom built-in organization. Optimizing the space with a built-in cabinet outfitted with upgraded organization accessories can help keep all of those little bottles and grooming supplies much more easily managed. Sports equipment, shoes, and coats are typically among the top clutter culprits in most houses. By creating a coat cubby or locker-room-styled organization (below) near the most-used entryway, you'll create a greater chance that those items might be put away. For kids' rooms, take advantage of the whimsy of color and style when decorating custom built-ins, and take the opportunity to maximize the storage possibilities (left).


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Awkward spaces, nooks and crannies don't offer much utility to the homeowner, but when improved with a clever built-in or shelving project, the space can become a real asset for your home. Understairs areas are prime examples of unused space that can be exploited with a built-in, as with this understairs wine rack (right). If your idea of built-ins is simply cabinet installations in a kitchen or a bathroom, there are many styles, finishes, and colors available. Cabinet-makers are offering detailing options- moldings, wine racks, spice racks, and pull-out trays, for example- that help you create the exact look and performance you desire (below).

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16 • TH E COMP LETE GU IDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES

& BU1LT-1NS

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I Tools & Materials B

uildin g she lves a nd built-ins is a c halle ngi ng job thal requ ires patience, atte nt io n to deta il , and th e ri ght tool for eac h task. \rVith out th ese basic require me nts , YO ll arc sett ing yourself lip for pote nti al failure a nd th e res ult wi ll suffe r. Sta rt off ri ght by us ing hi gh-q uality tools. Good too ls la st longe r an d a rc ge ne ra ll y morc acc u rate t han less expensive ve rsions.

M a ny people buy tools on ly as th ey a re needed to avo id purc hases th ey will not use. T hi s ra ti o nale

sho uld only app ly to power tools and hi gher- priced specia lty items. A hi gh-qu ality bas ic too l se t is importan t for every dO- it-yo urselfer to have on ha nd . DOing so avo ids im proper tool usage a nd ma kes your job easie r, with im proved res ults. The hand tools yo u will need fo r mos t fin ish ca rpentry jobs can be broke n down into two type s: layou t tool s a nd co nstru c tion too ls . It is co mm on for most people to ow n co nstruction too ls, bu t to lac k necessa ry layo ut tools for basic carpent!)' jobs. Purc hase th e highes t-qual ity layout too ls yo u ca n afford. They are c ru cial fo r hdp ing yo u avo id cos tly meas uring and marking mi sta kes.

LAYOUT TOOLS Layou t tools help yo u measure, mar k, a nd set-up perfect c uts w ith accuracy. Man y layo ut tools are inexpe n sive and simply provide a mea ns of measu rin g for level, sq uare , a nd plumb lines. However, rece nt tec hno logies have inco rporated lase rs into levels, stud find e rs , an d tape meas ures, mak ing th e m more aCC lIrate than ever before but, a t a s lightl y highe r price. Although th ese new too ls a re ha nd y in spec ifi c a ppli ca ti ons, their hi ghe r p ri ce is not always wa rranted for th e do- it-yo urselfer. •

A t a pe measure is o ne of t he most commo n tools a round. The odd s a re good tha t you a lready own a t leas t one. (If yo u a rc making frequent trips for building suppli es, in vest in a second ta pe th at stays in your car. ) Carpenlry projects req uire a sturd y tape m eas u re with a length grea ter tha n yo ur longest stock. A 2S-ft . tape meas ure has a w ider a nd thicke r readin g su rface t han a 16-ft. va ri e ty, but e ithe r is adeq ua te fo r mos t ca rpe nt!)' jobs . If you ca n't te ll th e diffe rence be tween the sma lle r lines o n a sta nda rd tape, co nside r purc has ing a n "Easy Head" v
"Easy Read" tape measure

Combination square

20 • T H E COM PL ETE CUIf)E TO C USTOM SHELVES & BUILT·INS

Levels

Framing square

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A framing square, a lso knO\vn as a carpenter's sq uare, is commonl y used to mark s heet goods ctnd c heck recen tl y insta lled pieces for position . Frami ng squares are also used CIS Cl n initial check for wa ll sq uareness an d pl umb in relation to a fl oor o r ceiling. C halk lines are used to make te mporary straight lines anywhe re one is needed. T he case of a chal k line, or the "box," is tea rdrop shaped so that th e tool doubl es as a plumb bob. Use a c hal k line to mark sheet good s for cutt ing or to esta blish CI level li ne in a room. Keep in mind that chalk can be difll cult to re move from poro us su rfClces. A stud finder is used to locate t he fra ming me mbers in a \.va ll or ce iling. Hi gh er~pri ce d vers ion s a lso locatc plumbing, elcc trica l, or other mcchan ica ls in t he wa ll. Alt hough stud Ilnders are not complete ly necessary, they are convenient for larger jobs. Levels are ava ibble in a vari ety of le ngths Cl nd price ranges. The longer a nd more accurate t he level, the highe r th e price. The t\·vo most commonly used sizes are 2-ft. and 4~Ft. lengths. 2~ft. levels are handy for tighter spaces, while the 4-ft . variety serves as a better all-pu rpose level. Laser levels are handy for creating a level line around the perim eter of a roo m or for level lines alo ng longe r lengths. They provide a wide range of line or spot placeme nt, depending on the model. A T-bevel is a spec ia li zed tool for find ing and transfe rri ng precise angles. T~ beve l s are ge ne rall y used in conj un cti on with a pmve r miter saw to gauge ang led miters of non~square co rn e rs. T hi s tool is espec iall y handy in older homes where t he ori ginal states of squa re, plumb , an d level may no lo nge r appl y. A profile gauge uses a se ries of pins to recreate th e profi le of any object so t hat you may tran sfer it to a wo rk piece. Prollie gauges are especia ll y useful when dealing \-vith irregular obstructions. A combination square is a mu ltifunctio n sq uare that provides Cln easy refe rence for 45~ an d 90-degree ang les, as \.vell as marki ng revea l lines or a constant spec illc di stance from t he edge of a work piece.

Stud finder! laser level

Profile gauge

Tools & Materials •

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CONSTRUCTION TOOLS • A good qua lity hamme r is a must fo r every ca rpe nt ry project. A \6-oz. cu rved claw hammer,

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ot herwise known as a fi nis h hammer, is a good a ll -purpose c hoice. Some people prefer a large r straight clelw ha mm er for heavy tear-dow n projects an d ro ugh fram ing, bu t t hese hammers <:I re too clumsy a nd heavy for dr iving s ma ller cas ing a nd finis h nails, an d te n d to mar the su rface of t rim . Utility kni ves are available in fixed, re tract ing, an d re t rac table blades. T hi s tool is used fo r a wide varie ty of cutting tasks fro m pe nci l s harpen ing to back -beveling mi ter jo in ts. Always have add it ional blades read ily ava ila b le. Fo ld ing fixed-blade ut ility kni ves offe r th e durab il ity an d strengt h of a fixed blade with the protection of a fo lding ha ndle. A set of' chisels is necessa ry fo r in sta lli ng door ha rdware as we ll as notching tri m aroun d obstacles an d final fitting o f d ifficult pieces. Keep a set o nly fo r lise w it h wood , <:I nd do no t s u bst itu te the m for screwd rive rs. Block planes a re used to fi t doors into ope ni ngs an d re move fi ne a moun ts of materia l fro m trim. A finely tu ned bl ock p la ne ca n even be used to clean up a sloppy mite r join t. A coping saw has a thin , fl exib le blade designed to cut curves a nd is essential for maki ng professiona l trim jo in ts on inside corners. Copi ng saw blad es shou ld be fine too thed , betwee n 16 an d 24 teet h per in ch for most hardv,roods, and set to c ut o n the pull stro ke of the S3\'V to offer you more blade contro l. A sha rp h a ndsaw is convenient for qu ick cu toffs an d in some in stances w'he re power saws are difficu lt to co ntrol. Purchase a crosscut S3\V for general-purpose cutti ng. Protec tive wear, incl ud ing safety gb sses and ea r protection, is requ ired any t ime yo u are worki ng wit h tools. Dust mas ks are necessary vvhe n sanding, doing de molition , or whe n worki ng around fum es . Pry bars co me in a va ri e ty of sizes a nd shapes. A qual ity forged high-ca rbo n stecl fl a t ba r is t he most com mon c hoice. Wrecking bars make ligh ter wor k of trim a nd doo r removal d ue to thei r added we igh t. No ma tter what type of pry bar yo u use, protec t finis hed su rfaces from scra tches wit h a b lock of wood vv hen removing trim. Side cutte rs and e nd nippe r s are use fu l for cutting off a nd pu ll ing out bent na ils. The added ha nd le lengt h and curved hea d of a n en d n ippers makes them idea l for larger cas ing nails.


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Pne um at ic brad nui ls a nd sma ll e r pi ns will pull o ut eas ier wit h s ide cutters. P urc hase u nu il set fo r co un te rsin ki ng nail heads. T hree- p iece sets a re availab le for di fferent na il sizes. A ra sp and metal file s e t is important fo r fitt ing coped joints prec ise ly. The va ri ety of s hapes, sizes, and mi lls a llow fo r fas te r ro ugh removal of mater ia l, or smoother slow re moval, depend ing on t he fi le. Use a putty knife to fi ll na il ho les wi th wood fi ller and fo r light sCfuping t
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Handsaw•

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IRWIN

Tools & N/nterials •

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• Circular saw

Compound power

miter saw

Jig saw

Reciprocating

Cordless drill

saw

I Power Tools Despite th e hi ghe r price as compared to hand tools, power tool s a re a gre at va lue. T hey al low you to \-\lork more quickly a nd accura te ly than w ith hand tools

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<:Ind ma ke repet it ive tasks like sa ndi ng, drilling, and smving more enjoya ble. Basic home ca rpe ntIY does not req uire eve ry power tool show n here, but so me too ls, sllc h as a powe r mite r box, a re c ru c ia l for profess iona l res ults. Purchase powe r too ls on an as ~n eeded basi s, keepin g in m ind that \.v hil c th e cheapes t too l is not always you r best option, the most expensive and powerful is probabl y not necessary, e ithe r. C hea per tool s gene ra ll y sacrifice p rec is ion, whil e the mos t ex pe nsive tools are made for people who lise them every day, not just occaSionall y.


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A cordless drill is one of th e hand iest too ls availab le. Al though drill s a re not normall y used to in sta ll trim , they make quick wo rk of insta lling st ructural compone nt s. OccaSio na ll y, trim -head scre\vs are used to in stJ Il trim , rath e r than na ils o r regul ar wood sc rews . A circular saw is ideal for stra ight c uts in pl)'\vood and qui c k c ut-offs of solid ma te ria l. Purchase a plywood blade to make smooth cu ts in pl ywood , and a gene ral -purpose blade for other c uts. A jig saw is th e perfect tool for cu tting curves, or notc hin g out trim around obstructions. Ji g saw blades co me in a n array of deS igns for diffe re nt styles of c ut s and di ffere nt ty pes a nd thi cknesses of materi als . Always lise th e ri ght type of blade and do no t force the Sa\V during th e c ut: or it may bend or break.

Router

Random orbit sander

Biscuit joiner

Finish sander

planer

Table saw

Belt sander

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A biscuit joiner (also ca ll ed a plate joiner) is a spec ialty tool used for alig nme nt and to make strong joints between t\vo squa re pieces of stock. A reciprocating saw is used for remova l <:Ind tea r-down applications. This too l is es pec ia ll y handy for re moving doo r jambs. A power miter saw, or chop saw, wi ll yield professio na l resul ts. Most have a 10" or 12" diameter blade. A compou nd power mite r saw has a head that pivots to cut both bevels and miters. Sl idi ng miter sa\vs have more cuttin g capac ity but are less porta bl e. A nne-tooth carbide-tipped blade is best fo r built-in an d shelving projects. A belt sander is not essent ial but is a handy tool for quick removal of materi al. Random-orbit sanders are a good cho ice for smoothing Aat areas, such as plyv,lOod, quickly.

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Ran dom-orbit sanders leave no circular ma rki ngs, like a di sc sa nder, and can sand in any direction rega rdl ess of wood gra in . Finish sanders are ava ilable in a variety of sizes a nd shapes for different light sandin g applications. A power planer is lIsed to trim doors to fit openi ngs and fl atten or straighten ou t mate ri als. Power planers arc faster to use th a n ma nual hand planes, but th e resu lts arc more difn eult to contro l. A table saw is the best tool for ripping stock to width, and larger mode ls ca n be fitted with a molding head for cutting profiles. A router (plunge router is shown he re) has many uses in trim carpe nt ry, es pec iall y for cutt ing edge profi les to make your own custom \vorkpieces.

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I Pneumatic Tools Pneu mat ic too ls ca n be a key to tim ely, profess iona l carpent ry results. They save time an d ene rgy over traditi o na l ham me r- an cl-na il install a ti on. No t onl y do they drive fastene rs quic kl y, bu t they counte rsin k at th e sa me time, avoiding mu ltipl e strike s to trim , which could thrmv jo in ts out of a li gn ment. Predrill ed ho les are not necessary \,vith pneumatic too ls. Sp litti ng is infrequen t if th e wo rk piece is he ld firml y in place

Brad

nailer

Stapler

Pin nailer Angled finish nailer

26 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUlLT-l NS

and the na ils are pos itione d at least } 'I fro m trim e nd s . Na il gun s a lso allmv YO LI to co ncen t rate on t he placement of th e \vork pi ece with one han d an d fas ten it w ith th e ot he r. You needn't fumbl e around \vith single faste ne rs beca use th ey are al ready loaded in the gun . T he costs of pne uma tic too ls, compresso rs, and fas te ne rs has dec reased over th e yea rs, ma kin g t he m not on ly th e professiona l's c hoice, but a grea t option for the do -it-yourselfe r as wel l. Pneuma tic kits a re ava ilab le at home ce nte rs with two diffe re nt gun s an d a compressor at a value price. For sma ll or in frequent jobs, cons ide r ren ting pneu matics. Porta ble com presso rs are ava ilab le in differe nt styles, including pancake ,md hot -dog styles . Any co mpressor w ith a ir press ure capa bility of 90 ps i or grea ter w ill dri ve a fini sh o r brad nail e r. Consider options like tank size, vve ight of th e unit, a nd no ise leve ls whil e the co mpressor is running. Ta lk to a home ce nte r spec ia list about w ha t yo ur spec ifi c com presso r needs are a nd keep in mind any future pn euma ti c too ls yo u might want. The t\'vo bas ic pne umati c too ls used in c<:l rpen try are a fini sh nailer, and a brad nail e r. A finish na iler drives IS-ga uge na il s ranging from I II to 2Ih ". These nai ls wo rk for a va ri e ty of moldings, door an d windO\,v trim, and general-purpose fasten in g. Angled finis h n<:l ilers are easie r to m<:l ne uver in tight corners th an st ra igh t guns, but e ithe r o ptio n will wo rk. Brad na ile rs drive sma ller IS-ga uge faste ne rs rangin g in length from Ih " to 211 . Some bra d nailers ' max imu m length is I I//, . Becau se t he faste ne rs are sma ller, it is no surpri se that th e gun is lig hter and s ma ller than a fini sh gu n. Brad nailers a re used to attach th in ner stock, wit h less tendenc y to split the wood . Headl ess p in ners drive fasteners si mila r to brad nails, but without th e head. T hese nai ls h<:lve less holding po\,v er, but are normall y used to hold sma ll moldin gs in p lace until the glue dri es. Be Sllre to load headl ess pins with th e poin ts down , taking note of th e label on th e magaz ine. %,11 c rown stap lers a re used to attac h t hin panels and in situat ions w he re maxim um holding pO\ve r is needed, but the fastener head will not be vis ible. Because stapl es have two legs an d a crown th<:lt co nn ec ts the m , the ir ho ldin g powe r is excelle nt. Howeve r, the ho le left by the sta ple's crow n is la rge and ca n be diffi c ult to co nceal.

18 ga o x 1114" brads 15 gao x 2W' finish nails

1 1/4"

X 3/4"

narrow crown staples 15 gao x 2" finish nails

3/8" X

1" narrow crown staples 18 gao x 1W' brads

18 gao x 3/8 "

5/8"

brads

x 1 ' 12" narrow crown staples

I Pneumatic Fasteners IS -gauge angle d finish nai ls and regu lar fini sh na ils range in le ngt h up to 2112". The angled variety are exactl y the same as the st r<:tight n<:t ils, b ut co me in a ngle d clips. These na ils a re m ade fro m ga lva nized wire, so t hey a re suita ble for ex terior a pplica tion s . Use fini sh na ils to attac h larger mold in gs a nd trim casings. Dri ve fasteners at regu lar intervals a lon g th e moldin gs and kee p the posi tion of the na il s at leas t 1" from th e molding e nds . Faste ne r lengt h is de pe nden t upon the size of workpi ece installed. Typical stock moldin gs and dimen s ional lumbe r is %" thick. 'vVhe n installing buil t ~ ins, the fastene r must pass through the moldin g a nd wa llboa rd a nd into the stud behind. Genera ll y, half th e fastener should be e mbe dde d in the backing or stud, so in most app lications, 2" fasteners should sufllce.

1 8~gauge brad na ils ra nge in length up to 2" for some guns a nd leave s ma lle r hol es to Ill! than Ilnis h gun s. Brad n<:t ils a re co mm on ly used fo r thinn e r casin gs that a re na ile d direc tly to a solid backer. A spec illc exa mpl e of thi s is a long th e inne r e dge of a door or wind mv cas in g. The ou ter e dge of th e trim is nailed with a llnis h gun throu gh th e wa ll board, whi le the inside edge re sts aga inst th e door jam b, so it ca n be fas te ne d with a brad nail e r. Headl ess pins leave a lmost no nail hole to fill but a re li m ited in lengt h to I ". The ir holding pov.re r is gre<:t tly dimini she d due to th e lac k of head, but th ey a rc genera lly used in co njunct io n \.v it h wood glue . W' c rovvn sta ples are used on ly when the fastene r head will not be visi ble.

Tools & N/nteria ls •

27

I Sheet Goods There "re man y differen t types of plywood fo r a wide a rray of uses. For built· in an d shelf projects, finish· grade or paint·grade plywood is com monly used . Each type is made up of thinly sliced laye rs ca ll ed plies. T hese layers arc made of sol id hard wood, softwood, or wood products. The more plies a sheet good has, the stronger it \vill be. This is only true for veneer- based plies. Med ium density fiberboard, or MOF, is made of wood fibers that have been gl ued an d pressed together. T hese panels a rc extremely sta ble and rarely shrink, expan d, or warp . Plywood thick nesses range from I/S II to 1". Many species of wood are avai lable for t he outer plywood veneers. T herefore , the core, or inner plies, give the panel its st ru ctural characterist ics. 3/4" or 2313/ AC plywood has a finish-grade face on one side a nd a utility grad e o n th e other. Standard AC pl yv.rood is made of seven plies of soft\·vood , sllc h as spruce or pine. Th is plywood is a good choice for paint-grade moldings. 3// ha rd wood veneer plywood is availab le in red oak, maple, and birch at most home ce nters. Its in ner core is basically the same as AC plywood, but it has a hardwood outer face. 3(," M OF oak ve nee r plywood is made up of three layers: two outer o<:lk ve neers and a solid core made of i\ lIO F. This plyv.rood tends to be less expens ive than a veneer core product an d has a smoothe r face , but is heavy, less durable, and docs not hold faste ne rs as wel l. IVIOF is aV<:Iilable \-v ith o r without an outer veneer. WI Baltic birch plywood is m<:lde up of thirteen plies, m aking it more dim e nsio nally stabl e than regular ve nee r core pl)'\vood. This panel is comm on ly used in Modern-style trim a nd ca n be painted or stained . Lumber-core ply,.vood has strips of so lid wood edgeglued betvveen outer veneer plies. Med ium density overlay, or Nl DO, pl)~vood has a solid wood veneer core v·,Iith a n M O F face. This panel e liminates the \'\reight of a MOF pa ne l and ha s the fastening stre ngth of" solid veneer core. The M O P face is perfect for paint-grade applications. Wainscoting paneling is available in several thicknesses from 3/ 16" to 5fs".

I Lumber Solid hard vvood is ava ilab le at most home centers in va ryi ng w idths. Species va ry, depend ing on your

locatio n. T hese boards make good so lid stoc k mate rial to co mbine w ith or mi ll into new trim moldings

because they arc already planed to a uniform thickness. If yo u can't find th e type of lumber you need at a horne cente r, chec k v,lith a lurn bel)'ard or a smal l cab inet shop in you r area. For larger runs wi th a uniform thick ness, ma ny cabinet shops \·vi ll cha rge a

nomina l nat fc c to plane th e boards for you. They may even be w illing to order the material for yo u throu gh a

loca l distributor.

Tip

~

Whenever possible, do a quick inspection of each board before you purchase it. Because hardwood lumber is often stained, carefully take note of cosmetic flaws such as splits, knots, checks, and wanes. These issues can sometimes be cut around, but once the finish is applied, the imperfection will show through . Lumber that is twisted, cupped, or crooked should not be used at full length. If a board is slightly bowed, you can probably flatten it out as you nail it. In any case, always choose the straightest, flattest lumber you can fi nd.

Pine

Tools & Mnt erials •

29

I Planning a Proiect ith any of the built-in and shelf projects found in thi s book, you ca n eit her build the project as shown, or adapt the des ign to fit yo ur unique space and needs. To build th e projec t as shown, fo ll ow the measureme nts in th e parts ta ble that accom panies each project. Sma ll wi dth an d he ight adjustm e nts ca n

a des ign as shown, it is safer to measure and cut th e

be made using th e fitting tips on page 32.

pi eces as you assem bl e the built-in in its location,

W

vVhcn adapt ing a built- in des ign, it is vc ry importa nt to make accurate pl an drawings on graph

To e nsure a profess iona l look an d fUll ctionaiu se, plan your built-ins so th ey fa ll withi n the standard range o f sizes ll sed

by c<:I bin et makers

man ufacture rs ( pa ge opposi te.)

vVhet her

YOLI

are adaptin g a project or following

ra th er than to prec ut all pieces in advance. Small discrepancies in marldng, cutting, and assem bl y

paper to show hmv the project wi lt fit in you r space.

techniques ca n lead to costly errors

T hese drawings let yo u orga ni ze yo ur wo rk <:I nd fi nd

all the pi eces.

if you precut

approxima te measu rements for parts; they also make it easier to estim ate the cost of materials .

............... ... '>oe

--~ ~:;",:I!>IlJiiT. 'S.lr ...

-28'·-

Make accurate scaled drawings on graph paper when adapting one of the built-in projects featured in this book. use a Simple scale, like 1 square = 1", to draw a side, top, and one or more front views of your project. For a complicated project, draw several front views showing the basic walls (carcase) of the built-in, the face frame construction, and the finished project including drawers and doors. Side views and top views should show all trim pieces and moldings. Make sure to use the actual measurements of sheet goods and dimension lumber when making your drawings.

30 • T H E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS

STANDARD BUILT-IN MEASUREMENTS Highest shelf shou ld be no more th an 80" above the fl oo r to be w ithin casy reac h. Shelves sho uld be at leas t 10" deep in bookcases, and 12" deep in han ging wall cab inets. Space th e shelves so the re is at least 1/2" of ope n space above t he ite m s yo u are sto ring. First shelf in a wa ll -hung bu ilt-in should be a t leas t 18" above a co untertop.

Work-surface height varies dependin g on how the su rface is used. Place th e surface 28" to 30 " a bove t he Aoar for a typi ng desk or sewing \vo rk center. Place

th e countertop at 36 11 fo r sta ndard kitchen c<:tbinets, at 44 " for a dry bar or ca ting cou nte r, or at 34 " for accessible roo ms .

Standard seating surfaces , like vvindmv seClt s un d 11

desk c huirs, are between 16" a nd 20 hi gh.

Base cabinet depth varies from 15" fo r a room di vide r to 30" for ca bine ts th at suppo rt a des k surface. Sta nd a rd kitc hen -s tyle fl oor ca binets u suall y a rc 24" or 25" in depth. Access space in front of a b u il t- in s hou ld be at leas t 36" to provide kn eeling space for open ing drawe rs an d ca binet doors.

Drawer sizes ra nge fro m a minimum of 3" hi gh , 8" wide, a nd 8" dee p ; to a m ax imu m of 10" high, 36" wide, a nd 30 " deep . Large drawe rs, mo re than 24" wide, shou ld be equip ped wit h two drawe r s lides for sta bili ty.

P/mlllil1g (j Project •

31

Tips for Planning and Fitting Built-Ins

~ CeilIng jOist

Ceiling J

Top plates

Floor JOist

Make small width adjustments (up to 6" on each side) with hardwood strips measured and cut to fill the extra space. Attach the strips to the edges of the face frame with counterbored wood screws. These "filler strips" let you slightly enlarge a project without making changes to the basic design. Filler strips also can be scribed to fit uneven walls.

Make small height adjustments by changing the thickness of the sale plates or top plates that anchor the built-in to the floor and ceiling. The floor-to-ceiling projects in this book are designed to fit rooms with 8·ft. ceilings. If your room height differs slightly, adjusting the sale plates or top plates lets you adapt a project without major design changes.

Nominal size

Measure spaces carefully. Floors, walls, and ceilings are not always level or plumb, so measure at several paints. If measurements vary from point-to-point, use the shortest measurement to determine the height or width of your built-in.

Measure your materials. Actual thickness for plywood can vary from the listed nominal size; ¥," plywood, for example, can vary in thickness by nearly 'k" .

32 • T H E COMPLETE GUIDE TO C USTO M SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS

Actual size

1x 2

3/4" X

1112"

1x 3

314" X

2112"

1x4

3f4" x

3112"

1x6

3/4" x 5112"

1x 8

3/4" X 7114"

2x4

1112" x 31/2"

2x6

1112" x 5 112"

2x8

1112" x 7114"

2 x 10

1112" X 9114"

Use actual measurements,

not nominal measurements, of dimension lumber when planning a built-in. The table above shows the actual dimensions of common lumber.

Materials Plywood (4 ft. x 8 ft.) V4"

Amount Cost for needed each

Total cost

sheets

1/2" sheets

¥," sheets

Lumber 1 x 2 boards 1 x 3 boards 1 x 4 boards 1 x 6 boards 1 x 8 boards 2 x 4S

Moldings Door-edge Shelf-edge Base shoe Baseboard Crown/cove

Revise the listed measurements of a featured project, if necessary, and record them. use your scaled drawings as a guide for estimating the revised measurements. Always double-check measurements before cutting pieces to prevent costly cutting errors.

Ornamental

Hardware Finish nails Power-drive screws Angle brackets Countertop brackets Drawer Slides Hinges Door latches Pulls/knobs Other materials Wood glue Oil/stain Sanding sealer Paint Outlet stri ps Grommets Light fixtu res

Total cost: Make cutting diagrams to help you make efficient use of materials. Make scale drawings of sheet goods on graph paper, and sketch cutting lines for each part of your project When laying out cutting lines, remem ber that the cutting path (kerf) of a saw blade usually consumes '/,' of wood.

Make a list of materials, using your plan drawings and cutting diagrams as a guide. Photocopy this materials list, and use it to organize your work and estimate costs.

P/mlllil1g

(j

Project •

33

I Jobsite Preparation W

het her you are insta lling an elabora te, custom buil t-in or a sim ple she lf, preparing the jobsite

is a n importa nt ste p of yo u r project. Remove furniture

and ot her objects from the rooms YOLI \v ill be wodu ng in so that YOLI \ov on't worry about getting smvd ust o n a ni ce u pho lstered cha ir, or accide n ta ll y damaging

an antique furnish ing. Cover any items you ca nn ot remove w it h plastic s heetin g. You may a lso want to cover fln ished floo rs wit h cardboa rd or plastic as \vell,

Keep t he wor k area clean a nd organ ized . A dedicated tool ta ble for staging your tools is a great organizational a id. Too l tab les also make it poss ib le to co nve ni e nt ly keep tools fro m d isappearing. If you only use t he tools t ha t you need a nd set them o n the tool tab le \,v he n you are n't usi ng t he m , tools stay off the Aoor and ou t of other rooms. Ad d a set of c lam ps to the tab le and you have a convenie nt space fo r fin etu ning t he fit of eac h piece.

to protect t he m fro m scratc hes or just to make clean-

li p easier. Set li p too ls sli c h as a power mi ter saw at a central wor ks tatio n, to avoid walk ing lo ng d istances between

where yo u a re insta lling an d where

YOLI

are cutti ng

mater ia l. This ce ntral locatio n is key to profess io na l resul ts because measure me nts a re easier to remember a nd qu ick trimmi ng is possible wit hout t he added t ime of ex iting and entering t he house. Make sure the work area is we ll li t. I f you don't <:Ilready ow n one, pu rchase a porta ble light (t rou ble light) to ma ke vie\vi ng the workp ieces e<:ls ie r. Kee p your tools s ha rp a nd c lea n. Acc ide nts a re more like ly \,vhe n blades are d ull an d tools are cove re d in d ust a nd di rt.

Organize your tools and avoid wearing a bulky work belt by setting up a dedicated tool table where all of your project tools and materials can be staged.

I

L~ -

In some built-in or shelving projects, the most efficient way to accomplish the work is to convert the insta llation room into a temporary workshop.

34 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS

I Proiect Safety P

ersonal safety shou ld be a priority when working on any project. Power tools and hand tools ca n cause serio LI S injuries that require immediate attention. Be prepared for such situa tio ns \vith a properly stocked first aid kit. Equ ip you r kit with a variety of bandage s izes and ot her necessary items such as ant isepti c wipes, cotton swabs, twee ze rs, sterile gauze, and a first aid handbook. To help you avoid using the nrst aid kit, read the owner's manuals of all power tools before operating

them, and fo llO\v all outli ned precautions. Protect yo urself with sCifety glasses, eur protect ion, and dust masks a nd resp irators when necessury. Keep your wo rk enviro n ment clea n and free of clutter. C lean you r tools and put th em away after

Always wear safety glasses and ear protection when operating power tools. Use dust masks when necessary, and protect yourself from chemicals with a respirator. Work gloves save your hands when moving or handling large amounts of material. Knee pads are useful when working on floor-level projects such as baseboard.

eac h wo rk sess ion, sweep up dust and any leftover fasteners, and collect scraps of c ut-off trim in a work bucket. These sc raps may come in handy before the e nd of the project, so keep the m around until you are finis hed. Mainta in safety throughout your project, and remember that being safe is a prio ri ty. Everyone needs to use ear protec tion when operating loud tools. If yo u don't, yo u wi ll lose you r hearing. People don 't just get used to loud no ise. They lose their hearing and the noise doesn't seem as loud. The concept t hat safety applies to everyone but yo u is fool ish. Take the necessaI)' precautions to prevent injury to yo urself and those aroun d yo u.

Read the owner's manual before operating any power tool. Your tools may differ in many ways from those described in this book, so it's best to familiarize yourself with the features and capabilities of the tools you own. Always wear eye and ear protection when operating a power tool. wear a dust mask when the project will produce dust.

Projec t Safety •

35

I Cutting & Fitting Joints C

utti ng an d fittin g joints is a skill t ha t requ ires patience, know le dge, and wel l-mainta ine d eq uipment to achieve effec ti ve res ults . There a f C a few basic joints th at are genera ll y used for most carpe nt ry applications: butt, inside and outside mite r, scarf, a nd coped joints.

Although c Ll ttingjoints acc urately is the key fun c tion of a pm,ve r mite r saw, it is not th e onl y tool necessary for quality joine ry. Coped joints requ ire a cop ing S3W as we ll as a se t of meta l files . For so me app lica tion s, fitti ng butt joints is simp lifie d \vith t he

lise of a bi scu it jointer or a pocket ho le jig. These arc specia lty too ls designed for join in g wood. Cu ttin g and fitting joints durin g insta lla tion can be very frustrat ing, es peciall y w hen it in vo lves difficu lt wal ls that are not plumb and corners th at are out of square. TClke th e time to read t hrough th e proper tec hni q ues of using a mite r smv, as we ll CIS the co rrect met hod for cu tting eac h ind ividua l jo int. These techniq ues a re desc ri bed in de tai l to help you wo rk throug h the imperfections found in every house and to avo id com mo n problems during instal lat ion.

Careful cutting is the hallmark of good joinery, be it in making furniture or installing trim moldings. Used correctly, a power miter saw offers the speed and precision to make your project look like it was done by a pro.


I Power Miter Saw Techniques

T

h.

ere <:Ire two main types of power miter $mvs.

The basic style cuts mite red angles when

materi al is placed again st the fence or beve led angles whe n material is pl aced

flat

on th e wo rk surface.

T he second type is ca lled a compound mite r saw. Compound saws allow you to cut a mite r and a beve l simu ltaneously. T he co mpound angle is extrem ely helpfu l in situatio ns w he re a corner is out of plumb an d a mi tered angle req uires

beve l to compensate.

So me com pound saws are Clvcti lable \\lith a sl iding feature that allows YO LI to cut through wider stock with a small er blade size. T hi s optio n raises the cos t of the saw considerably.

Tip: To avoid cutting off too much, start out by making a cut about W' to the waste side of the cutting line, then nibble at the workpiece with one or more additional cuts until you have cut up to the cutting li ne. Wait until the blade stops before ra ising the arm on every cut

Tips for Cutting with a Power Miter Saw

~

Blade guard removed for

clarity

TO cut multiple pieces of stock to the same length, clamp a stop block to your support table at the desired distance from the blade. After cutting the first piece, position each additional length against the stop block and the fence to cut pieces of equal length.

Make a full downward cut with a compound saw to cut wide stock. Release the trigger and let the blade come to a fu ll stop, then raise the saw arm. Flip the workpiece over and finish the cut

use a sliding miter saw equipped with a saw carriage that slides away from the fence. These saws have greater cutting capacity than a nonsliding saw so they can cut wider stock. They're also more expensive, but you may find it worth renting one.

Power fI.4iter Saw Tecll11 j[J! les •

37

I Mitering Outside Corners C utting outside m iters is one of t he main f unct ion s

of a pm,vc r mi te r saw. Mos t S3\VS have positi ve stops (called de te nts) a t 4 5° in eac h di rec tion, so standa rd outs ide corn ers a rc prac tica ll y c ut for you by t he saw. Kee p in mind th a t yo ur saw mu st be acc u rate ly se t up to c ut jo in ts sq ua re ly. Head t he owne r's ma nua l for sett ing u p your saw as \\le ll as fo r safe ty precau tio ns . Before you begin , c hec k the walls for sq ua re \,vith a comb ination squ a re or a fra min g sq ua re . If the corn e r is ve l)' close to sq ua re, proceed with th e squ a re corne r installatio n. If t he co rn e r is badl y ou t of sq uare, follo w th e "Out of Square" proced ure o n t he fo llowing page .

Tools & Materials Combination square or framing square Miter saw Pencil Tape measure Pneumatic finish nail gun

~

Air compressor Air hose T-bevel Molding Masking tape 1x 4

How TO Miter Square Outside Corners

Set the miter saw to 45°. Position the first piece on-edge. flat on the miter box table, flush against the fence. Hold the piece firmly in place with your left hand and cut the trim with a slow, steady motion . Release th e power button of the saw and remove the molding after the blade stops.

Set the miter saw blade to the opposing 45° positive stop. Place the second piece of molding on-edge, flat on the saw table, flush against the fence. Fasten the piece tightly in place with a hold-down or clamp. Cut the molding with a slow. steady motion.

Stud location

'I First piece

With the first piece of molding tacked in place, hold the second piece in position and check the fit of the joint If the joint is tight, nail both pieces at stud locations.

38 • T H E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUILT-INS

If the corner joint does not fit tightly, shim the work piece away from the fence to make minor adjustments until the joint fits tightly. Shims should be a uniform thickness. Playing cards work well.

I How to Miter Out-ot-Square Outside Corners

line parallel to wall

Draw a reference line off each wall of the corner using a straight 1 x 4. Put masking tape down on the finished floor to avoid scuffing it and to see your lines clearly Trace along each wall, connecting the traced lines at a point out from the tip of the corner.

To find the angle you need to miter your moldings, place a T-bevel with the handle flush against one wall, and adjust the blade so that it intersects the point where your reference lines meet. Lock the blade in place at this angle.

Transfer the angle of the T-bevel to the miter saw by locking

Position the molding on-edge, flat on the saw table and flush against the fence. Cut at your cutting mark. Tack the workpiece in place and repeat steps 2 through 4 to measure and cut the mating piece. Or, you can subtract the angle of the first cut (for example, 47") from 90 to find the angle for the second cut (43 in this case). using math is faster; taking direct measurements is more reliable.

the saw in the down position and adjusting the angle to match the angle of the T-bevel.

0

0

Power fI.4iter Saw Tecll11ilJlles •

39

I Mitering Inside Corners Although most profess ionals prefer to cope-c ut ins ide corners, it is com mon to see mo ldings that are mitered to inside co rn ers. These joi nts are more likely to se parate ove r time an d to allow gaps to s how. For t hat rcason it is not advised to use inside corner mite rs whe n insta lling a stain-grade trim product:. The gaps will be visi ble and are very diffi cu lt to fil l with putty. For paint-grade projects, miteri ng in side co rn ers makes mo re se nse because joints ca n be fi lled an d sanded before th e top coats of pai nt a rc applied .

Tools & Materials Miter saw

Pencil Tape measure Utility knife

~

Pneumatic finish nail gun Air compressor Air hose Molding

How To Miter Square Inside Corners

Front face of

Set the miter saw to 45° and place the first piece of trim on·edge, flat on the miter box table and flush against the fence. Hold the piece firmly in place with your left hand and cut the trim with a slow, steady motion. Release the power button and remove the molding after the blade stops.

3

Back·cut the inside edge of the trim piece with a utility knife so that the top corner will sit flush against the wall corner.

4

Stud location

Stud location

\ Butt the molding tightly against the wallboard and tack it into place.

40 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT·1NS

Adjust the blade of the miter saw to the opposite 45° angle and cut the mating piece. Test the fit of the jOint, adjusting the miter angle if necessary. Once the fit is tight, nail both pieces at stud locations.

I Building a Straightedge Guide Making s trai gh t and acc urate cu ts on pl ywood or paneli ng is a challenge. Even the best carpenter ca n't

always keep the blade on the c ut line, espec iall y over a longer spa n. A straightedge gu ide solves this probl em <:IS

lo ng as

YO LI

keep the sav/s ba se plate flu sh w ith the

edge of the cieClt.

The cleated edge of th e gu id e provides an acc urate ancho r for th e base pl ate of th e

S3\'V

as the

blade passes throug h th e mate rial. You can ma ke a stra ight cleat edge

by rippi ng th e

fi rst 2" off of an

existin g pl yvvood pa nel and using th e factory edge. Use

a fine-toothed blade for rip c uts and a pl ywood blade for s plinter-free crossc uts .

Tools & Materials ~ C-clamps Pencil Circular saw v,' Plywood base (10 x 96")

~,'

Plywood cleat (2 x 96") Carpenter's glue

A straightedge guide overcomes the difficulty of making square rip cuts and other square cuts on long workpieces. The guide is built square, ensuring that any cuts made with it will be square as well.

I How to Build a Straightedge Guide

Apply carpenter's glue to the bottom of the ¥," plywood cleat. then position the cleat on the W' plywood base, 2" from one edge. Clamp the pieces together until the glue dries.

Position the circular saw with its foot tight against the ~, " plywood cleat. Cut away the excess portion of the plywood base with a single pass of the saw to create a square edge.

TO use the guide, position it on top of the workpiece, so the guide'S square edge is flush with the cutting line on the workpiece. Clamp the guide in place with C-clamps.


41

I cutting Mitered Returns Mi te re d return s are a decorative treatment lIsed to h ide th e e nd gra in of \,vood an d provide a fi nished appeara nce. M ite red re turn s range from tiny p ieces of base shoe up to vcry la rge crown moldings. They are also commonly used when instal lin g a stool a nd apron treat me nt or on decora ti ve friezes above doors.

fina l cut of th e process leaves the re turn loose whe re it can some tim es be thrown from th e saw du e to th e a ir curre nt of th e blade. Plan on llsin g a piece of trim that is long enough to cut comforta bl y, or you will find yourse lf fighting the saw.

Bevel returns <:Ife another simple return o ption

for cha ir rail, baseboard, and base shoe . A bevel re turn is simpl y a c ut at th e e nd of th e mo ldin g t ha t "return s" t he \'vo rkp iccc back to th e wa ll at a n angle. T he biggest advantage to using mitered returns rathe r than beve l re turn s is t hat mi tered returns a lready have a finish e d s urface. Beve l re turn s requ ire more touc hup s. C ut ting mite red retu rn s for s ma ll moldings, such as q uarte r-round, or for thin stock, such as base board , ca n be tric ky when using a power mite r S3\'V. The

/

~

pneumatic finish nail gun Air compressor Air hose T-bevel Molding Wood glue

Combination squar.e Utility knife Power miter saw Miter. box and back saw Pencil Tape measure

MiteIed Ietum

--...l-.

Mitered joint

Tools & Materials

Straight cut

Mitered returns finish molding ends that would otherwise be exposed. Miter the main piece as you would at an outside corner. Cut a miter on the r.eturn piece, then cut it to length with a str.aight cut so it butts to the wall. Attach the return piece with wood glue.

42 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUlLT-l NS

Returns are made fr.om two 45 angle cuts. The scr.ap piece is removed and the r.eturn piece is glued into place. 0

How to Cut Mitered Base Shoe Returns

Measure and mark the molding to length. Adjust the miter saw blade to 45° and back-miter the molding, cutting the front edge to the desired overall length of the trim. Nail the backmitered piece in place using a square to line it up flush with the edge of the door casing.

Hold the mitered molding against the baseboard at a right angle above the installed base shoe. Mark the molding at the depth of the installed base shoe. Square-cut the molding at the cutoff mark. Because making this cut with a power saw is very dangerous, use a miter box and a back saw The cut-off piece will be the mitered return piece.

Adjust the blade of the miter saw to the opposite 45° angle and miter-cut the molding using a slow, steady stroke.

Check the fit of the return against the baseboard. If it is too small, repeat steps 3 and 4, making the piece slightly larger. If the return is too large, trim it to fit with a utility knife or sandpaper. Once the return fits properly, glue it in place with wood glue.

OPTION: Beveled returns are a quick

and simple alternative to mitered returns. They require finish touchup after the trim is installed .


43

I Establishing Level, Plumb & Square G

ood ca rpe nters stri ve to ach ieve three basic ideals in t he ir work: plumb, level, a nd sq uare. Go into <1Il Y hom e, however, and you a re bound to find walls th at bow, Aoars th at slope, a nd co rners th at do n't form right angles. This does n't a lways mean the ca rpe nter did a poo r job , but ra ther refl ects the fact that wood and many bu ild ing mater ia ls arc natura l products that expand, contract, and settl e with th e seasons. T hese natural movements do not always occu r at t he same rate, howeve r, causing Auctuations th at sometim es become perm ane nt . That's \,..,hy it's no surpri se that older homes more cOlllmon ly have large r Auctu3 tion s. T hese movements cun make trimmin g a built -

in projec t c ha llengin g. Level a nd plumb a re hard conce pts to ap ply when th e fl oo r s lopes heavil y a nd corners float in or ou t. Co mpoundin g the problem furt he r is th at powe r too ls arc made to cu t and sha pe wood pre ci sely. Preset angles o n a co m po und miter saw don't include angles such as 47 degrees. In most cases, yo ur installat ion of built- ins a nd trim "v iII requ ire co mp rom ises. Keep in mind the

overa ll appea rance of yo ur project an d remember th at t he conce pts of plumb an d level can be relative conce pts. Stri ve to achieve th em fo r quality join ts, bu t don 't insist on th e m whe n t hey affect t he overall appeara nce of you r project negati vely. Here are a

couple of Ilne pieces of advice to keep in mind: •

•

Level to th e roo m is more important th an leve l to the ea rth . Flat is mo rc impo rtant than leve l.

A plumb bob is hung to establish a plumb (exactly vertical) line. Plumb can be difficult to visualize. Most chalk boxes can double as plumb bobs for rough use.


Window and door jambs are normally installed level and plumb, but if they aren't your casing should still follow an even reveal of 3/,," to '// (about the thickness of a nickel) around the inside edge. Set the blade on a combination square to the depth of the reveal, then use the square as a guide for your pencil when marking. Install the casings flush with the mark.

use a spacer block as a guide to install moldings near a ceiling. The spacer will allow you to easily follow any ups and downs of an uneven ceiling, making the trim run parallel to it rather than exactly level.

Install baseboard as close to level as possible, paying attention to areas where a floor dips or slopes over a longer length. In these instances, "cheat" the baseboard as close to level as you can, leaving a gap below it. You can only cheat the molding to less than the height of your base shoe, or quarter round . These trim pieces will cover the gap because they are thinner and easier to flex to the contour of your floor. Cheating the molding will also make cutting miters easier because they will require less of a bevel.

Use a T-bevel to measure for miter-cutting trim on out-ofsquare corners. use a piece of scrap 1 x 4 to trace lines parallel to the corner walls. Place the T-bevel so the blade runs from the corner of the wall to the point where the lines intersect. Transfer this angle to your miter saw to cut your moldings.

ESfahlisiliJlg Lel'el, PIUIIII) & Square •

45

I Adding Doors C

a bine t doors are easy to ma ke using 'h" nn is hgrade plywood, and door-edge moldi ngs . Wh en

hung \,vith se mi-c on cealed overlay hi nges, do- it-

yourse lf panel -s tyle doors requ ire no complica ted rout ing or m orti sing tec hni ques . You ca n buil d them to any size nee ded, and fin ish th em to match your tastes.

Anoth e r casy o ptio n is to bu y rea dy- made cabi ne t doors fro m a ca bin et manu facturer or ca bine t refac ing co mpany, and hang th em yo urself us ing sem ico ncealed hinges. You also ca n have a profess ional

cab inetm uker des ign and bu ild custom cab inet doors

to yo ur specifications- a good choice if yo u wa nt wood -fra me d doors \\lith g lass pane ls . Other do- it-yourself door opt ions includ e sliding doors, so lid -gla ss doo rs, and fra me less doors (page opposite).

Easy-to-build overlay doors, made with 'I,' finish-grade plywood panels framed with door-edge moldings, are designed to overhang the face frame by about W' on each side. semi-concealed overlay hinges, which require no mortising, are attached to the back of the door and to the edge of the face frame. This door style also can be adapted to make folding doors.

Door-catch hardware is recommended if your doors do not use self-closing hinges, or if you want to lock them. Common types of hardware include: utility hasp (AI, railer catch (B), keyed lock (C), brass door bolt (0), and magnetic push latch (E) commonly used for solid glass doors.

46 • T H E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTO M SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS

I Door Options

Ready-made cabinet doors are available in stock sizes from cabinet manufacturers and cabinet refacing companies. Or. you can have doors custom-built by a professional cabinetmaker. Install these doors with semi-concealed overlay hinge.

Sliding doors are a good choice if limited space makes it impractical to install swinging doors. Build a pair of sliding doors from '/," finish-grade plywood, cut so they are 'h" shorter than the opening and will overlap by about 2" in the center. Attach door-track moldings to the top, bottom, and sides of the door opening. Install the doors by sliding them up into the top track, then lowering them into the bottom track .

• •

(

Pivot hinge

Glass doors give a contemporary look to built-in projects. Use '/," tempered glass with smoothed edges, not ordinary window glass, for doors. To install a glass door, drill holes in the top and bottom of the door opening, and insert pivot-hinge bushings. Mount the door using pivot-hinge brackets attached to the glass with setscrews (inset).

Frameless doors are common on contemporary-style builtins constructed without face frames - especially those made with melamine-covered particleboard. Frameless doors are mounted with concealed hinges attached to the inside surface of the built-in.

Adding Doors I

47

I Basic Drawers I

n its simplest fOfm, a drawer is noth ing Illore t han a wooden box th at slides in and o ut o n a pe rm a nent

I Directions: Overlay Drawer

shelf. Adding drmver slide hard\,vare, a hardvvood drawe r face, and orname ntal knobs or pull s makes

INSTALL THE DRAWER TRACK

drmve rs look more professio nal. T he drawe r shown on the following page is si mple

Insta ll the track for the drmve r slide, foll ovving th e m an ufacturer's directio ns, If th e slide will be

to build and w ill wo rk for any of the projec ts in thi s

sup ported by t he face frame and the back panel,

book. T he design is ca ll ed an "ove rlay" clrm-vcr because it featu res a hardwood d rawer face that overhangs the cabinet face frame.

mount it using th e rea r bracket included with the slide kit. If the track w ill rest on a she lf, install it before the

ca bi net is assem bled.

Ready-made hardwood d rawer faces are sold by

co mpanies spec ializing i n ca bin et ref;::lC ing products.

BUILD THE DRAWER FRAME

You G ill also make yo ur O\vn clrm-ver faces by cli tt ing hard\,vQod boards to t he prope r size a nd usi ng a ro uter with an e dgi ng bit to crea te a deco ra ti ve Rai r. A cente r-mounted drawe r s lide attac hed to th e botto m of the drmver a llows th e drawer to gl ide

Measure th e inte rior dime nsio ns of th e face fra me an d the dep th of t he cab inet fro m th e back edge of

the face frame to th e interior su rface of t he back panel. Then follow th e d imensions l isted in t he table

(opposite page) to cu t the drawer pieces to size.

smoothl y an d acts as a support for drawers i ns tall ed in

open cab ine ts. T he height, w idth , an d depth of the cabi llet, and

th e opening for the drmver must be ca refull y meas ured befo re t he drawer is built, to e nsu re a good Ilt.

Side panels : 1f2"

Tip: Measuring the Cabinet

dado

finish-grade PlYWOOd~ove

Part Sides

Bottom panel: W' finish-grade plywood Front panel : 112" finish-grade plywood

Face: 3/4" hardwood

The basic overlay drawer is made using y, " plywood for the front, back, and side panels, and %" plywood for the bottom panel. The bottom panel fits into a %" dado near th e bottom of the front and side panels, and is nailed to the bottom edge of the back panel. The hardwood drawer face is screwed to the drawer front from inside the drawer box.

48 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CU STOM SH ELVE S & BU1LT-1NS

Front

Back

Dimension length

Depth of opening, minus 3"

height

Height of opening, minus Vl'

length

Width of opening, minus 1y,"

height

Height of opening, minus y, "

length

Width of opening, minus 1%"

height

Height of opening, minus 1"

Bottom length

Face

Width of opening, minus 1"

height

Depth of opening, minus 2'('''

length

Width of opening, plus 1"

height

Height of opening, plus 1"

~

Outline '/-I"-wide dado grooves on t he interior

faces of the front and side panels. Hout '/," -deep dado grooves a long t he mmked ou tl ines, Llsing a route r v,fith a '/-1" stra ig ht bi t and a st ra ightedge gu ide. Cla m p and gl ue the drawer pa nels togeth er w ith

the fro nt a nd bac k pa nels between th e side pane ls and the top edges of the panels a lig ned . He inforee the jo ints with 21t finis h na ils driven t hrough the fron t a nd back into the side panels.

ATTACH THE DRAWER BOTTOM Let the gl ue dry and remove the cla mps. Slide the bottom pa ne l into the dado g rooves from the bac k of

the drawer box. Do not apply gl ue to the dado grooves or the bottom paneL Attac h the back edge of the bottom pa nel to the back panel, using b rad na ils spaced every 4".

APPLY THE FINISHING TOUCHES Finis h the drav\rcr face to matc h your project, Cl nd 311mv the fi n ish to dry. Positio n the drawe r box aga inst the bac k side of th e drawer face, so the face overhangs by Ih ll

on the sides and bottom, and J" on the top. Attach the

Mount the track for the drawer slide with the rear bracket when in stalling a drawer in an open cabinet

face with III screws driven [Tom ins ide t he drawer box. Attac h t he drawer s lide insert to the drawe r bottom , fo ll mvin g the man u facturer's d irectio ns. Attac h a ny d rawer p ull s o r knobs as desi red, a nd sl ide the d rawer in to t he cab ine t , making Slire the d rawer slide a nd insert are a ligned .

Front of drawer

\ Outline and then rout a dado groove along the bottom edge of the front and side panels.

Slide the bottom panel into the dado grooves of the drawer assembly.

Attach the face of the drawer by driving screws through the front panel into the face.

Basic Drawers •

49

I Preparing for the Finish properl y prepared wood surface absorbs Rnish mater ials evenly, focus ing attention on the qua li ty and color of t he wood and t he Rnish . A poorly prepared su rface foc uses attention on itself an d its fl aws. Sandi ng o r fi lling sc ra tc hes an d gouges, removing de nts a nd stai ns, and ca refu lly fi ni sh sa nd ing are the essential steps in prepari ng for t he fi nis h . \t\/ith ma ny woods (especia ll y softwoods like pine ) you ca n c reate a more even finis h by sea ling t he wood wit h san d ing sealer im me di ate ly after flnis h sandi ng, t hen sa nding the sealer lightly \v ith 220-gri t sandpape r afte r it d ri es. For exceptionally smooth, rich Rnis hes (particularly on open -gra in hurdwoods like ma hogany), Cl pply wood

A

gra in fi lle r to fi ll in c hecks an d large pores, creatin g a smoo th -as-glass surface. Before begin ni ng the fina l prepara ti ons fo r the finis h, sa nd the wo rkpi ece \v ith med ium-grit sa ndpaper to remove small scra tc hes and ot her su rface problems- th is is especia lly im po rtant if YOll d id not usc sand ing as a fi na l stage of fi n is h remova l. A ny scratc hes, gouges, dents, or stains that survive the intermed iate san ding shou ld be re med ied befo re you Rnis h-san d. Do your fi nal stCige of fi ni sh sa ndin g immed iately before you apply the Rnish- the smooth surface created by finish sa nding is eas ily scrCltc hed or d iscolore d .

Sand wood with power sanders, like the random-orbit sander shown above, to make quick work of the initial finish sanding stages, while producing a very smooth wood surface.

50 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVE S & BUlLT-l NS

How to Prepare a Wood Surface Sandpaper Grit Chart ~ Grit 80 to 100 120 t0150 180

Task Finish removal Preliminary finish sanding Final sanding for softwood; intermediate stage of finish sanding for hardwood 220 Final sanding for hardwood 300 to 400 Sanding between finish layers 600 wet/dry Wet sanding of final finish layer

Get rid of glue. Dried glue won't absorb wood stain or any other penetrating coloring agents, so glue spills and squeezeout show up as bright blotches if they're not removed by sanding or scraping before the finish is applied.

Apply wood grain filler that approximately matches the natural color of your wood. Available in light and dark colors, grain filler creates a smooth surface in open wood grains. Usually manufactured as a gel, it can be applied with a putty knife or a rag, but the excess material should be wiped off with a plastic scraper.

Choose the right sandpaper for the Jab. Aluminum oxide and garnet are two common types. Aluminum oxide is a good general-use product suitable for most refinishing and finishing purposes. Garnet is usually cheaper than aluminum oxide, but it wears out much more quickly use sandpaper with the proper grit (higher numbers indicate finer grit-see chart above).

Make your own sanding sealer by blending one part clear topcoat material with one part topcoat solvent. Note: Use the same topcoat material you plan to apply to the project. Sanding sealer is used before coloring soft or open-grain woods to achieve even stain penetration. TO apply, wipe on a heavy coat, then wipe off the excess after a few minutes. Sand lightly with 220-grit sandpaper when dry

Preparillgfor tile Fillish •

51

I Surface preparation Surface preparation ensures a n even, high-qual ity finis h. Finish-sa nd with progress ive ly Ilner grit s of sandpape r, sta rt ing \,v ith IOO-grit . Hardwood req u ires finer-grit sandpape r (a final sand in g with 220 -grit is common) than soft wood (sa nd to I 50-grit). To speed up the process, use a power san der for th e first stages of t he s<:I nding, the n svv itc h to hand-s<:t nd ing to complete th e process. Finis h sa nding alone creates a smooth su rface, but because \,vood a bso rbs stai n at different ratcs, the color can be blotchy and dark. Sca ling wood w ith sand ing sealer (e it he r a com mercial product or your ow n concoctio n of thinned fin is h) evens out the sta in
I How to Finish-sand

Finish-sand all surfaces with 1S0-grit sandpaper, following the direction of the grain. Use a finishing sander on flat surfaces and specialty sanding blocks on contours. When sanding hardwood, switch to 1BO-grit paper and sand again.

Raise the wood grain by dampening the surface with a wet rag. Let the wood dry, then skim the surface with a fine abrasive pad, following the grain.


use sanding blocks to hand-sand the entire workpiece with the finestgrit paper in the sanding sequence. Sand until all sanding marks are gone and the surface is smooth. (Use bright side lighting to check your progress.) If using sanding sealer, do that now.

I How to Use Sanding Sealer

Make your own sanding sealer by blending one part clear topcoat material (not water-based) with one part topcoat solvent. Note: use the same topcoat material you plan to apply to the project.

Wipe on a heavy coat of the sealer. then wipe off the excess after a few minutes. When dry, sand lightly with 220-grit sandpaper.

I How to Apply Grain Filler

After finish sanding, use a rag or putty knife to spread a coat of grain filler onto the wood surface. With a polishing motion, work the filler into the grain. Let the filler dry until it becomes cloudy (usually about 5 minutes).

Remove excess filler by drawing a plastic scraper across the grain of the wood at a 45 angle. Let the grain fi ller dry overnight. 0

Lightly hand-sand the surface, following the direction of the grain, with 220-grit sandpaper. Finally, dampen a clean cloth with mineral spirits and use it to thoroughly clean the surface.

Preparillg/or tile Fillish •

53

I Installing Cabinets C

abinets must be firm ly anchored to wa ll studs, and they must be plumb and level when installed.

T he best v,ray to ensure thi s is by <:Ittnc hing a ledger boa rd to the vVCI\I to assist in the insta llat ion. As a ge ne ral rule, in sta ll th e uppe r cabi ne ts first so your access is not impeded by the base cabinets. (Although some p rofessionals prefer to insta ll the base cabi ne ts fi rst so th ey can be used to support th e u ppers during insta llation.) It's also best to begin in a corner and wor k outward from there.

Tools & Materials ~ Handscrew clamps Level Hammer Uti lity kn ife Nail set Stepladder Drill Counterbore drill bit Cordless screwdriver Jig saw

Cabinets Trim molding Toe-kick molding Filler strips valance 6d finish nails Finish washers #10 x 4" wood screws #8 x 2W' screws 3" drywall screws

Stock cabinets are sold in boxes that are keyed to door and drawer packs (you need to buy these separately). It is important that you realize this when you are estimating your project costs at the building center (often a door pack will cost as much or more than the cabinet). Also allow plenty of time for assembling the cabinets out of the box. It can take an hour or more to put some more complex cabinets together.

I How to Fit a Corner Cabinet

II'

54 • T H E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUtLT-tNS

Before installation, test-fit corner and adjoining cabinets to make sure doors and handles do not interfere with each other. If necessary, increase the clearance by pulling the corner cabinet away from the side wall by no more than 4" . To maintain even spacing between the edges of the doors and the cabinet corner, cut a filler strip and attach it to the corner cabinet or the adjoining cabinet. Filler strips should be made from material that matches the cabinet doors and face frames.

How to Install Wall Cabinets

1

2 Filler

/

Position a corner upper cabinet on a ledger and hold it in place, making sure it is resting cleanly on the ledger. Drill ~,, " pilot holes into the wall studs through the hanging strips at the top, rear of cabinet Attach the cabinet to the wall with 2'h" screws. DO not tighten fully until all cabinets are hung.

strip

Attach a filler strip to the front edge of the cabinet, if needed. Clamp the filler in place, and drill counterbored pilot holes through the cabinet face frame, near hinge locations. Attach filler to cabinet with 2'h" cabinet screws or flathead wood screws.

3

Position the adjoining cabinet on the ledger, tight against the corner cabinet or filler strip. Clamp the corner cabinet and the adjoining cabinet together at the top and bottom. Handscrew clamps will not damage wood face frames.

Check the front cabinet edges or face frames for plumb. Drill ~, ,.' pilot holes into wall studs through hanging strips in rear of cabinet Attach cabinet with 2'1," screws. Do not tighten wall screws fully until all cabinets are hung.

/lIs/ailiJ1g Cabinets •

55

6

Attach the corner cabinet to the adjoining cabinet. From inside corner cabinet, drill pilot holes through face frame. Join cabinets with sheet-metal screws.

Position and attach each additional cabinet. Clamp frames together, and drill counterbored pilot holes through side of face frame. Join cabinets with wood screws. Drill '/,," pilot holes in hanging strips, and attach cabinet to studs with wood screws.

7

Join frameless cabinets with #8 x , %" panhead wood screws or wood screws with decorative washers. Each pair of cabinets should be joined by at least four screws.

56 • T H E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CUSTO M SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS

Fill gaps between the cabinet and wall or neighboring appliance with a filler strip. Cut the filler strip to fit the space, then wedge wood shims between the filler and the wall to create a friction fit that holds it in place temporarily Drill counterbored pilot holes through the side of the cabinet (or the edge of the face frame) and attach filler with screws.

10

Remove the temporary ledger. Check the cabinet run for plumb, and adjust if necessary by placing wood shims behind cabinet, near stud locations. Tighten wall screws completely. Cut off shims with utility knife.

Use trim moldings to cover any gaps

between cabinets and walls. Stain moldings to match cabinet finish.

12

Attach decorative valance above sink. Clamp valance to

edge of cabinet frames, and drill counterbored pilot holes through cabinet frames into end of valance. Attach with sheetmeta I screws.

Install the cabinet doors. If necessary, adjust the hinges so that the doors are straight and plumb.

/lIs/a iliJ1g Cabinets •

57

How to Install Base Cabinets

1

v

Begin the installation with a corner cabinet. Draw plumb lines that intersect the 34'// reference line (measured from the high point of the floor) at the locations for the cabinet sides.

Place cabinet in corner. Make sure the cabinet is plumb and level. If necessary, adjust by driving wood shims under cabinet base. Be careful not to damage flooring. Drill ¥,," pilot holes through the hanging strip and into wall studs. Tack the cabinet to the wall with wood screws or wallboard screws.

3

Clamp the adjoining cabinet to the corner cabinet. Make sure the new cabinet is plumb, then drill counterbored pilot holes through the cabinet sides or the face frame and filler strip. Screw the cabinets together. Drill 'h," pilot holes through hanging strips and into wall studs. Tack the cabinets loosely to the wall studs with wood screws or wallboard screws.

58 • T H E COM PL ETE GUIDE TO CUSTO M SH ELVES & BU1LT·1NS

use a jig saw to cut any cabinet openings needed in the cabinet backs (for example, in the sink base seen here) for plumbing, wiring or heating ducts.

5

Position and attach additional cabinets, making sure the frames are aligned and the cabinet tops are level. Clamp cabinets together, then attach the face frames or cabinet sides with screws driven into pilot holes. Tack the cabinets to the wall studs, but don't drive screws too tight- you may need to make adjustments once the entire bank is installed .

Make sure all cabinets are level. If necessary, adjust by driving shims underneath cabinets. Place shims behind the cabinets near stud locations to fill any gaps. Tighten wall screws. Cut off shims with utility knife.

7

use trim moldings to cover gaps between the cabinets and the wall or floor. The toe-kick area is often covered with a strip of wood finished to match the cabinets or painted black.

Hang cabinet doors and mount drawer fronts, then test to make sure they close smoothly and the doors fit evenly and flush. Self-closing cabinet hinges (by far the most common type installed today) have adjustment screws that allow you to make minor changes to the hardware to correct any problems.

/lIs/a iliJ1g Cal)iJlelS •

59

I Creating a Kitchen Island K

itchen islands can be created using a \,v hole range of methods, from repurposing an o ld tab le to

fine, Clistom \,voodworking. But perhaps the eas ies t

(a nd most fai lsafe) way to add the conveniences and conviviality of a kit chen island is to make one from

stock base cabinets. The cabinets an d co untertops don 't have to match you r kitc he n ca binetry, but that is ce rtainly an option you should conside r. "'!he n designing and positioning your new island, be sure

to maintain a minim um distance of 3

ft. bet\veen the

Tools & Materials Marker Drill/driver 2 x 4 cleats Pneumatic nailer and 2" fin ish nails or hammer and 6d finish nails

~

2 base cabinets (approx. 36" wide x 24" deep) Countertop Wallboard screws

island a nd other cabinets (4 ft. or more is better).

r

1

TWO base cabinets arranged back-to-back make a sturdy kitchen island base that's easy to install. When made with the same style cabinets and countertops as the rest of the kitchen, the island is a perfect match.

60 • T HE CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUlLT-l NS

How to Create a Stock-cabinet Island

Set two base cabinets back-to-back in position on the floor

and outline the cabinet corners onto the flooring. Remove the cabinets and draw a new outline inside the one you just created to allow for the thickness of the cabinet sides (usually 3/,").

Cut 2 x 4 cleats to fit inside the inner outline to provide nailing surfaces for the cabinets. Attach the cleats to the floor with screws or nails. TIP: Create an L-shape cleat for each inside corner.

Join the two base cabinets together by driving 1'1,'

Attach the cabinets to the floor cleats using 6d finish nails.

wallboard screws through the nailing strips on th e backs of the cabinets from each direction. Make sure the cabinet sides are flush and aligned . Lower the base cabinets over the cleats. Check the cabinets for level, and shim underneath the edges of the base if necessary.

Drill pilot holes for nails, and recess nail heads with a nail set. Make a countertop and install it on top of the cabinets.

Creatillg a Kitchell Islalld •

61

I Making Countertops M

be doing th e \,vork yo urself or co ntrac ting out, and

th at can dazz le w ith the look-nt-me pi zzazz of grani te,

cove r several countertop op tio ns, identify ing th eir

or bring toge th er a coun try theme w ith soapston e and

plu ses and m inuses, and giving installat ion di rec tion s

butc he r block. T he re are many c hoices in COllntertops,

for th ose you ca n in stall yourse lf.

from the less expensive laminate and post-form ,

Ste p-by-s te p instruc tio ns w it h photographs are inc lud e d for t\VO countertop projec ts: pos t-form laminate d, cus tom lam ina te.

ore than si mply a work surface, a kitchen counte rto p is an important part of many buil t- in s

through ce ramic and stone tile, to high-e nd stai nlcssstee l, granite an d marble.

what loo k yo u wa nt: to ac hieve. I n thi s chapter we w ill

Countertop options fo r you r built- in depen d on how much you are wi lli ng to spend, wheth er you will

Butcher Block

~

End grain

Face grain

Edge grain

Typical countertop material is 1%" wide and 25" deep, available in a number of lengths from 4 ft to 12 ft. long.

62 • T H E COM PL ETE GUIDE TO CUSTO M SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS

Butcher block that's constructed with the end grain oriented up is the most deSirable, but it is relatively hard to find and fairly expensive. Material with the face grain or edge grain facing up is more common and more affordable (prefinished, it still runs around $30 per lineal foot).

A well-chosen countertop can give your built-in a high-end appearance and a professional finish.

!'\lIakillg e mlllte rrops •

63

I Installing a Post-form Countertop P

ost-form lam inate countertops are ava ilable in stock

sect ions afe also avai lable.

If the

COllntertop has a n exposed e nd, YO LI

\·vill need an endeap kit th at

contains a prcshapcd strip of matc hing lam inate. Post-fo rm countertops have eith er a wate rfall

edge or a no-drip edge. Stoc k colors a f C typicall y ava ilab le in

4-,6-,8-, j 0- and 12-foot stra ight lengths and 6- and 8-foot mitered lengths.

Materials and tools for installing countertop include:

a post-form

wood for shimming (A), take-up bolts for drawing miters together (81, household iron (CI, endcap laminate to match countertop (D), end cap battens (EI, file (F), adjustable wrench (G), buildup blocks (H), compass (I), fasteners (I), silicone caulk and sealer (K).

Post-form countertops are among the easiest and cheapest to install. They are a good choice for beginning DIYerS, but the

design and color options are fairly limited .


Tools & Materials

OPTION: Use a jig saw fitted with a downstroke blade to cut post-form if the saw foot must rest on the good surface of the post form. If you are unable to locate a downstroke blade, you can try applying tape over the cutting lines, but you are still likely to get tear-out from a normal upstroke jig saw blade.

Tape measure Framing square Pencil Straightedge C-clamps Hammer Level Caulking gun Jig saw Compass Adjustable wrench Belt sander Drill and spade bit Cordless screwdriver

~

Post-form countertop Wood shims Take-up bolts Drywall screws Wire brads Endcap laminate Silicone caulk Wood glue.

How to Install a Post-form Countertop

Use a framing square to mark a cutting line on the bottom

surface of the countertop. Cut the countertop with a jig saw, using a clamped straight-edge as a guide.

Attach the battens from the endcap kit to the edge of the countertop, using carpenter's glue and small brads. Sand out any unevenness with a belt sander

Installil1g a Post -form

COIlllfer/op

•

65

Hold the end cap laminate against the end, slightly overlapping the edges. Activate adhesive by pressing an iron set at medium heat against the endcap. Cool with a wet cloth, then file the end cap laminate flush with the edges of the countertop.

Position the countertop on base cabinets. Make sure the front edge of the countertop is parallel to the cabinet faces. Check the countertop for level. Make sure that drawers and doors open and close freely. If needed, adjust the countertop with shims.

!i

Because walls are usually uneven, use a compass to trace the wall outline onto the backsplash. Set the compass arms to match the widest gap, then move the compass along the length of the wall to transfer the outline to the top of the backsplash. Apply painter's tape to the top edge of the backsplash, following the scribe line (inset).

66 • T H E COM PL ETE GUIDE TO CUSTO M SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS

Remove the countertop. use a belt sander to grind the backsplash to the scribe line. Replace and install the countertop.

Tips for Installing Post-form Countertops ~

Mark the cutout for a self-rimming sink by tracing it. Position the sink upside down on the countertop and trace its outline. Remove the sink and draw a cutting line %" inside the sink outline.

Drill a starter hole just inside the

cutting line. Make sink cutouts with a jig saw Support the cutout area from below so that the falling cutout does not damage the cabinet or countertop.

From underneath the countertop, install and tighten miter take-up bolts Position the countertop tightly against the wall and fasten it to the cabinets by driving wallboard screws up through corner brackets and into the countertop. Screws should be long enough to provide maximum holding power, but not long enough to puncture the laminate surface.

Apply a bead of silicone caulk to the edges of the mitered countertop sections. Force the countertop pieces tightly together.

Seal the seam between the backsplash and the wall with silicone caulk. Smooth the bead with a wet fingertip. Wipe away excess caulk.

Installi l1g a Post-form

COIlllfer/op

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67

I Building a Custom Laminate Countertop B

u ildi ng yo ur own c us tOIll la m inate cou nte rto p using sheets of plasti c laminate and part ic leboard offers two ctd va ntages: the co unterto p YOLI get \,vill be less expe nsive tha n a c ustom-o rde red counte rtop , a nd it will a llm,v YO LI m ore options in te rm s of colors a nd e dge t rea tme nts. A cOllnte rtop made with la m inates a lso ca n be ta ilored to fit any space, un like prc madc countcrtop materi al that is a standard wi dth (usua lly 25"). La minate commonly is sold in 8- ft. or j 2-ft. lengths that are a bo ut Ihol! t hic k. [n widt h, th ey range fro m 30 '1

stri ps to 48 11 sheets. The 30" strips <:Ire sized spec ifl cally fo r cou nte rtops, a ll owing for a 2 51!-wide COll nterto p, a I lh" wide front edge stri p and a short bac ksplas h. T he plastic lamin ate is bonded to th e parti cleboa rd or j'vl D F sub st ra te wit h co ntac t ce m e n t (a lth ough mos t profess iona l ins ta ll e rs usc ad hesives that are avai lable only to th e trades) . Wa ter-base co ntact ceme nt is nonAa mm a bl e an d no ntoxic , but so lvent- base contact ceme nt (whi c h requ ires a res pi rator and is hi ghly Aa m ma b le ) c reates a m uc h stro nge r, more durable bond .

Tools & Materials ~ Tape measure Framing square Straightedge Scoring tool paint roller 3-way clamps Caulk gun J-roller Miter saw Scribing compass Circular saw Screwdriver Belt sander File Router

%" particleboard

Sheet laminate Contact cement and thinner wood glue Drywall screws.

Fabricating your own custom countertop from particleboard and plastiC laminate is not exactly an easy DIY proJect, but it gives you unlimited options and the results can be very satisfying.


Tips for Working with Laminate ~

Measure along tops of base cabinets to determine the size of the countertop. If wall corners are not square, use a framing square to establish a reference line (R) near the middle of the base cabinets, perpendicular to the front of the cabinets. Take four measurements (A, B, c, D) from the reference line to the cabinet ends. Allow for overhangs by adding 1" to the length for each exposed end, and 1" to the width (E).

Backsplash substrate

Countertop substrate

Layout cutting lines on the particleboard so you can rip-cut the substrate and build-up strips to size, using a framing square to establish a reference line. Cut core to size using a circular saw with clamped straightedge as a guide. Cut 4" strips of particleboard for the backsplash, and for joint support where sections of countertop core are butted together. Cut 3" strips for edge buildups.

BllildiJlg a ellS/Om Lam il1ale COIllller/op •

69

How to Build a Custom Laminate Countertop

1

1

2

• Join the countertop substrate pieces on the bottom side.

Attach a 4" particleboard Joint support across the seam, using carpenter's glue and 1%" wallboard screws.

Attach 3"-wide edge buildup strips to the bottom of the countertop, using 1%" wallboard screws. Fill any gaps on the outside edges with latex wood patch, and then sand the edges with a belt sander.

TO determine the size of the laminate top, measure the countertop substrate.

Laminate seams should not overlap the substrate. Add y," trimming margin to both the length and width of each piece. Measure laminate needed for face and edges of backsplash, and for exposed edges of countertop substrate. Add '(," to each measurement


4

Cut laminate by scoring and breaking it. Draw a cutting line, then etch along the line with a utility knife or other sharp

cutting tool. Use a straightedge as a guide. Two passes of scoring tool will help laminate break cleanly.

OPTION: Some laminate installers prefer to cut laminate with special snips that resemble avaiator snips. Available from laminate suppliers, the snips are faster than scoring and snapping, and less likely to cause cracks or tears in the material. You'll still need to square the cut edges with a trimmer or router.

Bend laminate toward the scored line until the sheet

Create tight-piloted seams with plastic laminate by using

breaks cleanly. For better control on narrow pieces, clamp a straightedge along the scored line before bending laminate. wear gloves to avoid being cut by sharp edges.

a router and a straight bit to trim edges that will butt together Measure from cutting edge of the bit to edge of the router baseplate (A). Place laminate on scrap wood and align edges. To guide the router, clamp a straightedge on the laminate at distance A plus v.", parallel to laminate edge. Trim laminate.

BllildiJlg a ellS/Om Lamil1ale COIllller/op •

71

Apply laminate to sides of countertop first Using a paint

Use a router and flush-cutting bit to trim edge strip flush with top and bottom surfaces of countertop substrate. At edges where router cannot reach, trim excess laminate with a file. Apply laminate to remai ning edges, and trim with router.

roller, apply two coats of contact cement to the edge of the countertop and one coat to back of laminate. Let cement dry according to manufacturer's directions. Position laminate carefully, then press against edge of countertop. Bond by rolling with a !-roller.

Test-fit laminate top on countertop

9

\

) /


I

substrate. Check that laminate overhangs all edges. At seam locations, draw a reference line on core where laminate edges will butt together. Remove laminate. Make sure all surfaces are free of dust, then apply one coat of contact cement to back of laminate and two coats to substrate. Place spacers made of %"thick scrap wood at 6" intervals across countertop core. Because contact cement bonds instantly, spacers allow laminate to be positioned accurately over core without bonding. Align laminate with seam reference line. Beginning at one end, remove spacers and press laminate to countertop core.

Apply contact cement to remaining substrate and next piece of laminate. Let the cement dry, then position laminate on spacers, and carefully align the butt seam. Beginning at seam edge, remove spacers and press laminate to the countertop substrate.

11

cutting bit

Roll the entire surface with a J-roller to bond the laminate to the substrate. Clean off any excess contact cement with a soft cloth and mineral spirits.

Remove excess laminate with a router and flush-cutting bit. At edges where router cannot reach, trim excess laminate with a file. Countertop is now ready for final trimming with bevelcutting bit.


73

~

\.-

15° bevelcutting bit

Finish-trim the edges with router and 15° bevel-cutting bit. set bit depth so that the bevel edge is cut only on top laminate layer. Bit should not cut into vertical edge surface.

14

cut 1Y."-wide strips of %" plywood to form an overhanging scribing strip for the backsplash. Attach to the top and sides of the backsplash substrate with glue and wallboard screws. Cut laminate pieces and apply to exposed sides, top and front of backsplash. Trim each piece as it is applied.


TIP: File all edges smooth. Use downward file strokes to avoid chipping the laminate.

15

Test-fit the countertop and backsplash. Because your walls may be uneven, use a compass to trace the wall outline onto the backsplash scribing strip. Use a belt sander to grind the backsplash to scribe line.

16

Apply a bead of silicone caulk to the bottom edge of the

Position the backsplash on the countertop, and clamp

backsplash .

it into place with bar clamps. Wipe away excess caulk, and let dry completely.

18 I

screw 2" wallboard screws through the countertop and into the backsplash core. Make sure screw heads are countersunk completely for a tight fit against the base cabinet Install countertops.


75

I Creating Wood Countertop Edges

FCOllntert~p)

or an e leaant Cldded tOllc h on a laminate

lise hardwood edges and s hape the m

with a ro uter. Hout th e edges before attac hi ng th e

backsplas h to the counte rtop. Wood caps ca n also be add ed to the top edge of th e bac ksplas h. A sim ple edge is best for easy cleaning.

Tools & Materials Hammer Nail set Belt sander with 120-grit sanding belt 3-way clamps

~

Router 1 x 2 hardwood strips Wood glue Finish nails

Incorporating hardwood into the countertop edging

presents a wealth of attractive and very durable solutions for the nosing of a plastic laminate countertop.

I How to Build Solid Hardwood Edges

Apply laminate to the top of the countertop before

attaching the edge strip. Attach the edge strip flush with the surface of the laminate, using wood glue and fi nish nails.


Mold the top and bottom edges of the strip with a router and profiling bit, if desired. Stain and fi nish the wood as desired.

I How to Build Coved Hardwood Edges

x 2 hardwood strips to fit the edges of the countertop. Sand the strips smooth. Miter-cut the inside and outside corners.

Cut 1

Attach edge strips to the countertop with wood glue and 3-way clamps. Drill pilot holes, then attach strip with finish nails. Recess nail heads with a nail set or, use a pneumatic finish nailer with 2" nails.

Apply laminate to the edge and top of the countertop after the hardwood edge has been sanded flush.

Sand the edge strips flush with the top surface of the countertop, using a belt sander and 120-grit sandpaper.

Cut cove edge with a router and cove bit with ball-bearing

pilot Smooth cove with 220-grit sandpaper. Stain and finish exposed wood as desired.

Crentillg Wood COIO/terrop Edges •

77

I Window Seat O

ne great way to add cozy charm to a room is to build a \"lindow seat. Not on ly do window seats make a room more invit ing, they provide fu nctional be nellts as well, partic ularly "vhen yo u su rround them w ith bu ilt- in shelving. The "vindow seat shown here has a base built from a bove-t he-refrigerator cabinets. This size provides


just the right he ight (when placed on a 3" curb) to create a comfortab le seat. Above the cab inets and Aanking celch side is a site-made bookcase. A top she lf bridges the t\iva cases an d ties t he who le thi ng toget he r-\,v hile crea ting still more space for sto rage or d isplay.

Tools Mi ter S3\Y Table saw Ci rcular saw Drill/driver

Level Stud finder Hammer Tape measure Nail set Pneumatic nailer/compressor Hauter Shooting board Sander Fra ming square

Materials 2) lSI! upper refrigerator cabinets 2) %" x 4 x 8 ft. pes. M DF or plywood Screws/nails I ) 'I,"~ x 4 x 8 ft. laua n plywood Caulk Primer

Paint

Cutting List Part No.

Desc.

Size

Material

A

2

Outer standard %x llY2x 771// MOF

B

2

Inner standard

3/4

C

6

Shelf

¥-i x 16 1/) x 1]1//

D

Top shelf

0/4

E

Top bocker

F G

2

x

No.

Desc.

H

2

Bridge "binets 15 h x 36" w

2

End panel

'I, x 24 x IB"

MDF

4

Nailer

3/. x 21/1 x 15"

Plywood

ledger

3/. x 2111 x 72"

Plywood MDF

111fl X 63 1/ / MDF

Size

MDF

J

11 1/ .. x 70W MDF

K L

2

Curb rim

o/4 x3x72"

Bllckers

1f4x13 /4 x71 %" Plywood 1/. x 171/1 x 63 1/4 " Plywood

M

4

Curb strut

0/4

Seotboord

0/" 25 x 74"

N

Cabinet nailer

o/4 x3x72"

x

1

MDF

Material

Part

x

3 X 221/1"

Stock "binets

MDF MDF

Wi l1dOHl Seal •

81

How to Build a Window Seat

1

LAY OUT THE PROJECT T h is w indo w seat is integrated v·,Iith the existing win dO\v and trimwork. T he key contro l point for laying out the base ca binets is locating the center of th e v·,Iindow

openi ng. It is al so important that the cabinets sit level

The key control point for laying this project out is the center of the window sill. Measure and mark it

After striking a level line at cabinet height, measure from the floor in three locations to make sure the cabinets will fit

3

Strike a plumb line on each edge of the cabinet run. use a Hoot level and strike the line from floor to ceiling.


both le ft-to -rig ht and front-to- back. Level cab inet top s make in sta lli ng th e uppe r cabinet cases mLl ch eas ie r. Before YOLI begi n buildin g, re locate or re move a ny electrica l outlets t hat' ll be cove red by the ca binet, accordin g to you r local e lectri ca l codes . Fo r exa m p le, yo u ca n't just dead-e nd w ires an d leave th em buri ed in a wa ll. T hey usua ll y need to be capped and placed in a ju nc tion box w ith a re mova ble faceplate that is access ible (vv hi c h ma y mean makin g a c utout in t he back of a cab inet pane l). Mark the cen te r of th e win dow opening o n th e sill (pho to I ). Use a sq uare an d a level to t ransfer that mark plum b down the wa ll to t he ca binet he ig ht locat io n. At t he he ight of the cab ine ts mark a level line. i\ lleas ure from the Roa r up to th e level line in severa l loca tion s to make s ure th e cabine t s w ill fit a ll a lo ng the ir enti re run (photo 2). If t hey do n't fit , make th e prope r adju stments; that is, raise the line . Ca binets tha t don·t co me up to th e li ne m ust be shim med so they are level. Using an elec troni c stud finder, Rnd and mark the wa ll stud loca t ions be neat h the w indO\v and on eac h side in t he project area. Note: You should find jack and king stlids directly on either side of the window and a header above the windollJ. Deter/nine the overall span of the cabinets you. choose. For the project ShOl lnt here, the bank will be 6 ft . long, nwasuringfrom ontside ~ edge to outside-edge. Use a level to mark tile outside edges of the cabinet run Oil tlte wall. Mark plumb lines down to the floor and "1' to the ceiling (photo 3).

INSTALL THE BASE CABINETS With a ll th e layo ut lines ma r ked out, the next step is to insta ll th e ca binets th at form the base of the w in dmv seat. T hi s de te rmin es t he control points for the rest of the project layout. Use a pull -saw an d sha rp c hi se l to remove base moldin g between t he ve rti ca l layo Llt lines (photo 4). To e leva te the ca binets that \vill be used fo r th e sea t to a mo re co mfo rtab le he ig ht, a nd to crea te a toe~ ki c k space, build a s ho rt c urb t hat matc hes th e footp rint of t he scat. Si nce t he cu rb will not be visibl e, yo u can usc j ust a bou t any sho p sc rap s you may have to b u ild it. The o ne s hown here is made w ith iVlDF

shee t stoc k that is rip-c ut in to 3"-wide strips. Th en

the curb is assem bled into a ladd er shape by attach ing struts betwee n th e front and back curb members with

4

glue and sc rews (p hoto 5). O nce the ladd e r is bu il t, se t th e cabinets on th e curb so th e ca bi ne t fron ts

and sides align with t he cu rb. Ma rk the locatio n of the backs of the ca binets o nto the top of th e curb and th en remove the cabine ts. A ttac h a nailer to th e

curb ju st behind the line fo r th e cab inet backs . T he n, pos it ion th e curb tight against the wa ll in the area w here the base molding has bee n removed. A ttac h it

to the si ll plate of the wa ll wi th na il s or screws. To s upport the bac k edge of t he seatboard, attac h a ledge r to th e wa ll. Th e to p of th e ledge r (we used a 2 'j,"-wide st rip of plywood ) sho uld be Aus h w it h th e tops of th e cab ine ts w hen they are in stalled on top of th e curb. A tt ac h th e ledger w ith panel adh esive and nai ls or screws dri ve n at stud loca ti ons

(photo 6). Measu re betwee n th e to p of t he curb and ledge r and cut a few naile rs to t his length .

Assemble the curb members into a ladder-like frame and secure the butt joints with glue and screws driven through pilot holes.

Because a pull-type saw requires almost zero clearance at the bottom of a cut (where it would hit the floor in this application), it's great for removing the base molding so the cabinet carcases fit tight to the wall.

Attach a ledger for the back edge of the seatboard to the wall, using panel adhesive and screws or nails driven at stud locations.

Wil1dolV Seal •

83

Cut nailers to fit between the ledger and the curb and attach them to the wall at the ends of the project area.

Attach t hem to the wedl at the e nds of the project, and add a coup le near the center to help support the ledge r (photo 7). Set t he cabinets in posi ti on on t he curb, \,v ith t he back edges aga inst the nai ler. Drive shims betwee n the curb and the Aoor if necessary to level the cabinets (photo 8 ). Fasten the cabi nets to the na ile r strip. Pre-dri ll , co un te rs ink a nd face-fasten the face frames toge ther \<\I ith screws to form a "ga ng" of cab inets (p hoto 9). If YOLI are lIsing cab inets t hat have no face fram es, screw the cabinet sides together as dire cted by the cabinet manufacturer. Cut off shims as necessary. If the e nds of you r window seat are open (that is, they don 't butt up against a wa ll), cut e nd pane ls to cover the ends of the cab inets and the open space behind them. Use 1/4 11 plywood or hardboard. You ma y need to remove a slive r of the baseboard on each side so you can butt the panels up aga in st the \.va ll. Attach the pane l to the cabinet ends and the curb with pa ne l adhesive. Cut, rout and install the seat top. Cutting a 74" x 25" blank from M DF (medium -density fiberboard ) works wel l. This will c reate a one inch overha ng at the front and sides of the cab inets.

For floors that are out of level, shim the cabinets up to th e level line to keep them in a level plane.

After clamping the cabinet face-frames together, predri ll and fasten them together with screws.

84 • TH E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUlLT-l NS

Before installing the seat top, rout a profile on the front and side edges. Don't rout the back.

Use <:I rou te r <:Ind bit w it h <:I deco rat ive profi le (s uc h <:IS <:I n ogee or a plain roun dove r) to smooth th e hard edge of the M OF (photo 10). Profilin g the edge red uces the chance th at th e edge wi ll chip or crack. Pos itio n the seat top on top of the cab inets and the wal l ledger a nd faste n it from the interior of the ca binets using coarsethreaded drywall sc rews. A bead of pane l adh es ive along t he top edges of the c<:l binet a nd the ledger he lps ens ure a sol id con necti on.

CUT THE CASE STOCK T he bookcase portion of the window seat ca n be assemb led from shee t stock (M OF is a good c hoice) or solid Ix stock, such as I x 12 pine or poplar (pine is c hea per, popla r is st ronger an d takes pain t better) or hmd,vood like mCiple, oCl k, or cheny for sta ining. WhCltever materiCi I yo u choose, insta ll CI backer sheet of '/," pl ywood that fi ts into rab be ts in th e backs of the case stoc k to help ensu re squa re assem bly and provide a strong con nec ti o n point to the wal l. T he ac tu al wid th of I x 12 di me nsio n lumber is 1 J 112", so if usi ng sheet stock, rip all pieces to width . Any edges that face th e interior of th e room need to be sanded smooth to remove SClW marks. Note that it's usuCi ll y eas ie r to dress t he fac tory edge th an th e edge cut on-site. Running the pieces on a joi nter or route r table is a fast, accurate ,vay to dress th e edge. A be lt sa nder or finish sander w ith fine grit paper wo rk s too, but be careful not to re move too mu c h stoc k. Of course, you ca n also hand sand it. C ut <:I 1/21! ,vide by 1/.,," deep rabbet (see drawing, page 81) on the backs of the stan dard s (p hoto I I). You can do t his ,vith a table saw (eit her make multip le passes on the tab le saw to remove stoc k or use a stacked dado head cutter blade); using a router with a rab beting bit; or on a jointer or router tab le. The remainder of th e layout and sizing must be registered from th e seat top to acco mmodate spec ific si te co nditions.

Clamp all work securely before milling the y, x % rabbet. for the backers with a router, which will provide safe, accurate cuts. The remainder of the layout and sizing must be registered from the seat top to accommodate specific site conditions.

12

INSTALL THE TOP-SHELF BACKER The re maining measurements for th e backer and shelf dim ensions are now determ ined by th e dista nce betwee n you r window casing, ve rtical layout lines, and ce iling height. T hey must be si te-meas ured for accu racy. Layout the top shelf backer (photo 12). It sho uld fit ben·veen th e cei li ng a nd t he top o f the wi ndow cCisi ng- and be t,,\lee n you r verti cal layout lines. To calcu late the top she lf backer dimen sions, measu re between th e ve rt ical layout lines. Su btract %,1> . To calcu late to p shelf backer height, measu re fro m the top of the window cas ing to the ceili ng. S ubtract 1/8" .

use the layout lines to size the top shelf backer and the backers for the vertical shelf units.

Wil1dolV Seal

•

85

Marking layout lines all at once using a framing square is a good way to keep lines parallel from shelf-to-shelf. Make sure all bottoms are held flush during the marking procedure.

Install the rest of the shelves taking care to drive fasteners straight to prevent blow-outs in the shelf stock.

[nsta ll th e top she lf backer tigh t to t he ceil ing by fastening to st uds wit h fi nis h nails or sc rews.

FABRICATE & ASSEMBLE THE BOOKCASES T he bookcases' outs ide edges run fro m the seat-top to the ceili ng. T he inside edges run fro m the seat-top to the top of t he \v indow casi ng. Me<1s lIre a nd cu t each vertical bookcase mem ber to le ngt h . O n a fl at su rface, lay a[[ t he bottoms of th e boo kcase members flus h and mark out your shelves (photo [3). Use a framing squa re to mar k t hem. Keep in mind t he re is a bottom


shelf that sits di rectly above t he seat top. The top shelf is insta lled late r. Layou t and cu t the backer stock . To calcu [ate the widt h, measure the distance bc(\vcc n the \vi ndow casing a nd t he vertical layout li ne, m in us 1// . To calculate the height, measure the distance fro m the seat to p to t he bottom edge of the top bac ker and subtract 11/',". Asse mb[e the cabinet sides and t he bac kers. This is an ideal app li cation for a pneumatic 1/./ crovm stapler, but it ca n also be done effective ly by pre-dril [ing and

5

16

Hold the shelf assembly as tight as possible to the window trim, seat top and wall then fasten.

For paint grade units, caulk any gaps that appear to make shadow lines disappear You can caulk the gap on paint grade shelves too. Be extra diligent in wiping down the material after caulking.

sc rewing, or by lIsing a pneu ma ti c finish na ile r. Use a framin g sq uare as a reference to be Slire the cabinet ca rcascs a rc as sq uare as poss ible during assem bl y. iVlcasure, c ut, a nd insta ll shelves at the layo ut lines (photo J 4). Fasten through the ca bine t carcass into the shelves. Pre-drill and co untersink jf using sc re\vs.

sits as tightly to th e wa ll , seat top, and \vindow trim as poss ible . Expect to make some on -site correc tion s as necessary to accommodate out-oF-p lumb \.va ll s or other imperfection s. Sl igh t gaps ca n be ca ulked later. Re peat for t he right-side bookcase and th e n m eas ure, c ut a nd insta ll th e top shelf. If pa int ing, caulk whe reve r necessary (photo 16) . Fill exposed ho les for nails an d screws, then pri me a nd paint or a ppl y a nothe r nni sh of your choice. Make or bu y a comfo rta ble seat c ushio n. Fina lly, brew a c up of

INSTAll THE BOOK CASES & TOP SHELF Butt the left bookcase to th e window trim and fasten it to a wa ll stud wit h a few screws or na il s dr ive n thro ugh the backer (photo 15 ). Make su re the case

coffee, grab a good book, a nd get busy relaxing.

Wil1dolV Seal

•

87

I Bed Surround H

bed lighting creates the halo of a wa rm and calm space

form but \,vi th terri fic function . Combi ning cab inets of

q ui ck nap.

eadboards aren't the only way to adorn the head of a bead. In deed, it ca n be dressed not on ly with

differi ng sizes and shapes provides bot h th e finis h to

a bed- that is often th e sole do main of the attractive but purely decorative head board-an d the util ity of cab inets th at doubl e as both decoratio n and much needed storage. T he ca binets' c lea n, deAned lines len d this Bed Surrou nd a modern fee l while the option for a bove-

88 • TH E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUILT-INS

for sta rtin g and ending the day or tucking a\vay for a Before getting started, determine

if YO Ll

\va nt

the option of ca bin et· mounted lights. If so, roughin th e w ires and S\,v itc h(es) prior to insta lling th e ca bin ets . Once the ca binets arc on site, prep th em before hanging

by drilling th e appro pri ate

holes to

accommodate the \vires and house the light fixtures.

30'l'~

A

D

A

,

,, ,: 81"

c

A

c

Cutting List Part

No.

Desc.

Size

A

4

Wall cabinet

12 x 30"

B

2

Wall cabinet

15 x 30"

C

2

Bose cabinet

18 x 34Y1"

D

2

Countertop

1'1 " 19 x 25"

Hed S'urrolllld •

89

How to Build a Bed Surround LAY OUT THE PROJECT C hoose the exac t locat io n for your bed sur rou nd . Mark the left a nd rig ht edges of the project area, and t hen And t he center li ne. Be very exact. Usi ng a 4 ft. leve l, plu mb u p from t he ce nter poi nt. Ma rk a p lu m b li ne (p hoto I ). T h is is the control poi nt from

whi ch YOLI map out th e rest of the IaYOLIt . Meas ure 30 1/8" left a nd rig ht of th e cen te r poin t to ma rk t he ou tsi de edges of th e ho rizon ta l uppers (p ho to 2 ). D rive a 6-pc nn y nail righ t on t he ce nte rli ne to ho ld your tape.

INSTALL THE UPPER CABINETS I nsta ll a temporary ledger <:It the locCltion of t he bottom edges of t he horizo n tal cabi ne ts (81" above the Aoor in OLif project). Carefull y insta ll the ho rizontal uppers by res t ing t he m in pos ition o n the tempo rary ledgers a nd t he n d riving sc rews through the cabinet backs a nd into wall st uds (p hoto 3). If yo u discover gaps between u pper cab ine ts, create fi ll e r st ri ps to inse rt bet\veen t he cab ine ts (p hoto 4 ) an d conceal the gaps (see page 32 ). From t he outs ide edges of t he in sta lled horizon tal uppe r assembly, plum b down to t he Aoor w ith a 4-ft. level. W ith t he uppers insta ll ed, you now have rock sol id contro l po ints to p lum b dow n to t he Aoor from. T hese li nes e nable you to place the lower ca b inets acc urately a nd keep all face fra mes ti ght. Measure the base ca bi ne ts' \vidt h to the left and ri gh t of the p lu m b lines an d ma rk t he baseboa rd fo r re m oval (photo 5). Us ing a comb ination squa re and pu ll saw, ma r k a nd re move th e base mo lding. Be ca re ful not to da mage t he wal lboa rd w he n removing the base mo lding.

INSTALL THE VERTICAL ELEMENTS T he base cab inets w ill nee d so me type of co u n terto p s urface so they can fu nc t ion as n ightstands and a lso suppo rt the vert ical upper cab ine ts. \;\Ie made part ic leboard cou ntertops \v ith p lastic la mi nate app li ed to the tops and edges. Because the s izes are re la ti vely sma ll , thi s projec t <:I lso presents <:I good oppo rtu n ity to ex peri me n t with so m e h igh ~e nd co u n tert o p mater ia ls, s u ch as gran ite or q uartz. Install t he co u nte rtops before in sta lli ng t he base cabi ne ts in the projec t a rea (p hoto 6). Insta ll t he le ft base cabinet ti gh t to the plumb li ne (p hoto 7).

90 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CU STOM SH ELVE S & BUlLT-l NS

Draw a plumb reference line in the exact center of the project area.

2 ..

Mark vertical reference lines %" further out from the centerline than the horizontal cabinet height.

3

Move the upper cabinets into position and fasten them to wall at stand locations using screws.

4

Cut and attach filler strips to the edge of one of the

From the plumb line, measure out the exact width of the

cabinets if there is a gap between it and its neighbor.

base cabinet carcass and mark the base molding for removal.

Bed Su rrolllld •

91

Install the laminate countertop on the base cabinet prior to installation. Make sure it is flush to the inside edge and back of the

base cabinets and overhangs the front and outside edges.

Install the left base cabinet tight to the plumb line. Drive screws into a stud at both the top and bottom of the cabinet carcase.

92 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUILT-INS

On top of the left base cabi net, mOll nt the first vert ical uppe r tigh t to t he plumb li ne. Be carefu l of th e lami nate countertop durin g installation. Mount th e second vert ica l uppe r tight to th e first. Make su re the face frames are Aush. Shim the back as necessary and make sure to catch wa ll studs wi th the fasteners (p hoto 8). Repeat these steps for the base ca binet on th e right side.

JOIN THE CABINETS T he horizontal uppers and ve rti cal uppers shou ld be at th e same height. If so, Aush up and fasten th e face frames (photo 9). If the ca bin et gangs are not Aush, a djust the horizo ntcd uppers to mate \vith t he left a nd right vertical gangs . O nce Aush in all directions, fasten t he face frames a nd secu re to th e wa ll (p hoto 10). Install (or have installed) th e light fix tu res a nd swi tches. Remove the temporary ledger, patch drY'.va ll , cau lk, and trim cabinet bases as required . Sand and spot-tollch the hnishes .

9

Fasten the face frames of the vertical uppers to the horizontal uppers. Pre-drill and countersink before driving screws.

Sometimes shims are required to keep face frames tight and flush, due to irregularities in the wall surface. Insert shims behind the cabinets as needed and remove excess shim material after installation.

10

Once the face frames are fastened together, attach the wall cabinets securely to the wall with screws driven through the cabinet backs at stud locations.

Bed Surrolllld •

93

I Loft Bed I

f you had- or wa nted- a loft bed back in college or in your first apartment, then this is a project yo u're

going to like. But your kjds will probab ly li ke it more because it's cool, fun , and t heir fr iends probably \,\ro n 't have one. T hi s loft bed is designed to ope n lip fl oo r space usually co nsu med by a bed. It a lso provides a location underneath it for a kid or kid s to play, do activi ti es or set up a desk. An d , it because it ties in with the wa ll , it ca n wor k for kid s of all ages. Because YO LI ca n tie into th e \va ll , t hi s loft bed probabl y has a little more oomp h th an th e o ne YOLI mig ht have buil t with yo ur old roumnlelte. And,

fo r yo unge r kids. VVhi le YO LI ca n ma ke the bed to yo ur own specification s follow ing t he techniques below, the bed des ign he re is based on a tw in-sized mattress, v" hi ch is 39" x 75 ", T he outside dim e nsio ns of the bed frame a re 48 3/.. " X 80", wh ic h all O\,vs roo m up to p fo r books, a drink, and a little ext ra room for th e bedding to drapc w hen the bed is ma de . Your little princess or prince wi ll love cl imbing the ladder to get in bed. Safety Note: Never attach hooks or handles to the loft bed and do not hang ite1lls lr01I1- it, including rope and belts. Children can catch thenlselves on these ite111.s when. playing or in the event that {In accidental fall occurs.

Tools Mi te r S3\Y

Table saw Ci rcular saw

Drill/driver Level Stud finder Hammer Tape measure

Nail set Pneumatic nailer/compressor

Hauter and bits Sander Carpenter's square Shooting board

Of

straightedge

Materials (2) W' x 4 x 8 ft. maple (6) I x 2 x 8 ft. maple (4) lx6x8ft. maple (3) 2 x 2 x 8 ft. pine

pl)~vood

Brass screws

"',lith gromm et washers Deck screws Trim head \,\'ood screVl's Finish ing materials

Cutting List Part No. Desc.

Size

Material

Part No. Desc.

10

Size

Material

Roil post

%X1 V2X 4

I x 2 maple

A

Box front

Y. x Bx BO"

Maple plywood

J

B

Box end- left

Y. x Bx 4B"

Maple plywood

K

ladder leg-short

%x WI X 59W'

I x 6 maple

e

Box bock

%x5%x78W

Maple plywood

L

ladder leg-long

%x 5V1 x 79W'

I x 6 maple

D

Box end-right

%x5%x48

Maple plywood

M

ladder rung

Y. x IV, x 24

I x 2 maple

Box bottom

Y. x 4B x BO"

Maple plywood

N

ladder filler

%x 5Vlx 6W'

I x 6 maple

ladder filler

Jh x 51/1 x lOY?" I x 6 maple

E

6

F

2

Box/roil cop-front 0/4 x ]111 x 80"

I x 2 maple

0

G

2

Box cop-end

¥. x 1'1, x 48"

I x 2 maple

p

ladder filler

JI. x 51/1 X 31/1

Box cop- bock

%x 11/2 X 78 1/2

I x 2 maple

Q

CleoHong

] lh x 11/1 X 79

Roil cop-end

%x 11h x 30 ,4

I x 2 maple

R

(leoHhort

1'/, x l'h x45

H

1

8

I x 6 maple 1/4

2 x 2 maple (or pine) 2 x 2 maple (or pine)

Lof' Red • 95

How to Build a Loft Bed

1

once you've determined the height you want the mattress to be, strike a level line indicating the bottom of the mattress support box.

cut stock using a circular saw and straightedge guide, and stack it neatly. Label each piece (magic marker on blue painters tape works) to make identifying it later easier.

LAY OUT THE WALL CLEATS

hoi sted into position on th e wa ll c leats w hen you've taken it as far as it makes sense to go. The two si des of the box that face o ut into the room are \"rider than the two th at go aga inst the wa ll s because the room-s ide of the box needs to conceal the c leats that support the plywood box bottom. T hese clea ts (the room side ones) a rc attac hed to the frame first and the other two are attached to the walls first. The plywood bottom is butted agai nst the room sides of the box frame , and is Rush \vith the outs ide edges of the wa ll si des of the frame. The top edges of the box are covered wit h I X 2 maple on-edge, \,vhich a lso se rves as th e bottom rail of th e ra iling on the room s ides. I1ip-eut th e four box frame sides from 'ii' maple plyv/Ood, using a tablesaw or a circ ul ar saw and straightedge cu ttin g guide (photo 2). No te that th e t\,VO frame sides that go against the wa ll are 21//1 narrowe r than the ones fac ing the room.

Determine the length, width , and location of th e bed frame . P lan you r layout so that once the mattress is in , you have 4" to 6" all the way around it inside the mattress box, providing room for bedd ing and other thin gs. Ma rk a level line o n both walls at the botto m of the mattress box (photo I).

BUILD THE MATTRESS BOX The mattress box is fabricated from 3// thick maple plywood, which creates a clean, mode rn look once insta ll ed a nd finished . Maple is also a very stab le material t hat delivers dependa bl e mec han ica l connectio ns for assemb ly. A nd , because vve can

make pa nels larger theln wi th dimensiona l lumber, we create a nest for the mattress to set inside that resul ts in a c u rb that will he lp keep ch ildren safe at n ight. The box shou ld be assemb led as co mpl e te ly as possib le on th e grou nd (in your s hop ) a nd then

96 • THE COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS

The fastener sc he me we c hose fo r this bed is to tack th e parts togeth er w ith glu e and pneumat ic nail s, then

3

reinforce with brass screws an d gro mmet~sty l e was he rs once things arc squared up (the brass sc rews on ly need

to be used on visi ble surfaces) . Join the corners of the box wi th glue and sc rews (photo 3). The two exposed s ides should co nceal the e nd gra in of the side they're attached to. \t\1ork on a large, flat surface \,vith the box sides ups id e~dO\vn so th eir top edges are even. Cut th e c lea ts to length from 2 X 2 pine sto ck. Attac h c lea ts to the bottom inside faces of the exposed box sides, Aush with th e botto m edges of th e box (photo 4). Use g lue and brass \vooc! screw's dri ve n at 8" interval s to sec ure th e cleClts.

Once the cleats are in place, c ut the mattress box bottom to size and attac h it to the cleats that are co nn ec ted to th e room sides of th e box. Dri ve

211

dc c k sc rews through the plywood bottom an d into the

c lea ts, spaced no more th an 12" a pa rt (photo 5). At th e wa ll -s ides of th e box, th e pl )~vood bottom should be Aush with th e o uts ide edges of th e box. Also dri ve 2" deck or wa llb oard screws into th e ply'\vood box e dges on thi s side. C ut 3 2 X 2 stiffe ne rs "nd posit ion the m on the undersides of th e plywood. The e nds should be flu s h agai nst th e room side cleat. Tac k in place and th e n attach by dri ving screws throu gh the top of th e plywood.

Join the corners of the mattress box with glue and a few nails or with glue and clamps, and then rei nforce each joint with three #8 x 2'h" brass wood screws. Space the screws evenly. we added decorative grommet-style brass washers instead of counterboring and plugging the screw holes.

5

Attach the cleats that support the mattress box bottom to the two sides of the box that face the room.

Attach the plywood mattress box bottom by driving screws through the plywood and into the two cleats mounted inside the box. Also drive screws through the box bottom and into the back and right end edges of the box.

Lo!t Red • 97

Run the top edges of the j x 2 map le stock for the railing and edge caps parts through a router table fitted wit h a 1// roundover bit. Cut the box caps, cap

rails and rail posts to length (use a stop block on you r power miter saw to make uniform length pieces). Attac h the I x 2 caps to the back e dge and ri ght end (the wa ll sides) with glue and Anish nails (drill pilot hole for the Anish na ils if ha nd -dr iving them ). Before attaching the fro nt and left side box caps, layou t positions for the railing posts accord in g to the diCigram

on page 95 (photo 6). For best accuracy, gang~ma rk th e post locations on the rail caps a nd box caps. Attach each post to the box caps at ma rked locations, usi ng glue and two 3" deck screws or wood screws driven up through pilot holes in the box

Layout the locations for the rail ing posts on the mating ra il and box caps so you' ll be sure they're aligned perfectly.

98 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CU STOM SH ELVE S & BU1LT-1NS

cap and in to the bottom ends of the posts. Then, attach the box caps with attac he d posts to the front an d left sides of the mattress box, llsing glue a nd 3" trim -head wood sc re\'vs dri ven dovm through th e top edges of the box ca ps and into th e box at t 211 inte rvals (photo 7).

Next, attach the fCli ling caps to the tops of the railing posts wit h glue and trimheCld wood screws driven down through th e rail caps and into the posts. Make sure the posts are a li gned \vith th e refe rence lines you marked for their positions. F in ish-sand th e mattress box (you may wa nt to back out the sc rews a ways to get underneath the grom mets), It's best to wait unti l a ll parts are built so you ca n apply Anish at the sa me tim e

After screwing the railing posts to the box caps, attach the assemblies to the front and left sides of the mattress box using counterbored trim-head wood screws.

..··g ..... ... ...... ........ .. · . ....... ... .. ... .. ..

Shape the bullnose profiles into the top edges of your 1 x 2 rung stock before cutting the rungs to length.

Adding a Ceiling

The ladder is a 3-ply assembly. The short leg is the first layer. Next come the ladder blocks that run parallel to the leg. After you install a ladder block. you install a rung perpendicular to it, working your way down the ladder- block, rung. block, rung, etc. Make sure the blocks are flush to the edges of the leg and that the rungs are held tight to the blocks. use glue and screws (or pneumatic nails).

~

The bottom edges of the front side and left end of the mattress box are still exposed plywood edge grain . There are a couple of ways of dealing with this. One is to conceal the edges with heat-activated maple veneer tape. Or, you can tack on additional strips of maple 1 x 2. But we chose to create a "ceiling" for the area underneath the loft bed by attaching a sheet of tempered W' hardboard to the underside of the box.

MAKE THE LADDER T he ladder/pos t is made from bui lt-up I X 6 map le boa rd s . T he run gs arc I x 2 map le boards with bull nose d edges. To sim plify th e mac hining, c ut th e bu ll noses by proA ling a ll fou r edges of you r 8-ft. I x 2 stock o n a ro ute r ta bl e ntted with a %" ro undove r bit (photo 8) . The rungs should have CI more pro nounced bullnose th a n the top of t he I x 2 box ca ps. T he n c ut th e ru ngs to le ngth \.v ith a m ite r smv or power m ite r smv (3 sto p b loc k is a good idea fo r e n su ring uniform length s).

Cu t t he ladde r legs a nd ladd e r b locks to le ngth fro m I x 6 map le stock. Arra nge t he sho rte r legs on a Ra t surface wi th th e ou tside edges 24" apa rt a nd th e e nd Au sh. Ma ke sure legs stay para llel at a ll tim es . Install th e 6'1,' b locks first Aus h wi th th e top ends of th e legs. Use glue a nd a coup le of Anis h na il s or pne um a ti c na ils to secu re th e blocks. T hen begin v\lork,j ng dow nwa rd , ad d ing fu ngs and bloc ks acco rd ing to th e d i"gram 0 11 page 95 (photo 9).

Loft Red • 99

Faste n th e longe r legs ove r t he asse mb ly, sa nd\vic h ing the blocks and rlln g ends be twee n I x 6 legs (photo 10). The extra 15" of le ngth shou ld be a t th e to p of th e longe r legs .

· . . .. .. ... ·.. .. .. . . .. .. ,' . .. . . ..... ......., .." .

'1'0 " '

.... ... ..

.........

·. , ...... . · . .. . . . . ......... .." ,.... .. .. .... ..... .. ..... . ... ..

INSTALL THE LOFT BED

'

......... ... ." . ..... . ... .. . ., .. .. .... . .... ... ........ .. .. . .... ... ....... ...

Attach the long outer legs to the blocks. rungs and short legs, ensuring that the bottoms and sides are flush. Glue and screw securely with flat head brass wood screws and decorative grommet-type washers.

11

Be fo re in sta lling t he loft bed , a pp ly yo ur fi nish of c ho ice (a few coats of durable po lyure th ane varn ish is a good option). Pre ~asse mbl e th e long side c leat and short side c leat into a n L~ s h ape, using glue a nd 3" dec k sc rews . Attac h th e cleat to the \.va ll at th e m attress box layo ut lines . App ly pa nel adh es ive to th e back faces of t he c leats before insta lling. Attac h wi th 1 3/8 x 3 h" coun te rsun k lag sc re\vs \,vit h was he r at eac h st ud loca tio n (photo j I). C la m p a lo ng 2 x 4 to th e fro nt face of th e mattress box so th e 2 x 4 w ill s up port t he fro nt a t ro ugh ly t he co rrec t he ight \,v he n it is insta ll ed. With a co u p le of he lpe rs (or more ), ra ise th e box a nd res t th e bac k and right end on th e wa ll s c lea ts, m a king su re t he box is sq ua re to th e co rn e rs an d Rus h agai ns t t he wa ll s . Pl ace a level on th e box a nd adj ust th e c la mp a nd 2 x 4 brace so th e box is leve l (photo j 2 ).

12

,. '-'

'.

?

pre-assemble the wall cleats into an L-shape and fasten them to the wall studs with lag screws and adhesive.

100 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CU STOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS

Check with a 4 ft. level across the corner of the box near the ladder location to make sure the box is level on both sides.

13

•• Position the ladder at the corner of the front and left side

edges. The rung layer and short leg layer should fit snugly underneath the box, since the ladder will serve as a corner support post. Attach the ladde r to the rnattress box.

Once the mattre ss box is leve l, face-nail through

the front and left ends of the box and into the wa ll c leats to ho ld the bed in place. After th e ladde r is secu red "m el attached to the bed it \,v ill be safe enough to go topside and drive some nai ls through the box

Secure the bottom of the ladder/corner post by attaching a cleat to the floor behind the ladder legs.

a post) to the mattress box (photo 13). Locate th e screws so they hit the 2 x 2 cleat at the bottom , in side edge of the box. AJso dri ve a few counte rsunk 2"

screv/s dovm through th e plywood box bottom Cl nd in to the top e nds of the s hort legs. DOLIb l e~chec k the ladder to make SLIre it is

bottom and in to the \,va ll cleats .

plum b and th en sc rew the sixth ladder rLIng to the

INSTALL THE LADDER Position the ladder under th e mattress support box.

lvIake su re that the right side of the ladder is Rush wit h the long, outsi de e dge of the mattress support box. Plumb it and fasten us in g glue and screws. The short legs of the ladder create a ledge to he lp support the free e nd of th e box. Drive 3 1/ / brass scrclwvs with gromme t wash e rs

through t he ladder le g a nd upper ladder block at 8" intelVa ls to sec ure

the ladder (which

functions as

floor, direc tl y behi n d t he bottom of t he ladde r, laying Rat (photo 14 ). The ends of t he rungs shou ld be flush w ith the outside faces of th e ladde r legs. Dri ve sc rews or na il s through th e rungs and in to

the bottom s of the legs to prevent the ladder from moving. A lso ClttClc h the top end s of the long ladder legs to th e top railing caps w ith tri m- head screws . Dri ve a few extra na il s throu gh th e box bottom and into th e cleats, remove the temporary 2 x 4 brace, and add your mattress.

Loft Red •

101

I Country Diner iners are traditiona l morning and late-night ga th e ring spots, we ll-loved for being bright, fri endly, and upbea t. They have bee n gracious ly

D

Izjcking off our days for ge nerations \\lith hot food, grea t coffee and \.varm co mpa ny. At home, breakfast noo ks e mulating din e r boot h de signs and ambience a rc traditi ona l gath ering spo ts for morning coffee, preparing for th e day a head , or qu iet evening conversa ti o ns with th e fami ly. Bu t at-home breakfast nooks have traditionall y bee n

in te rpre ted as dark-stai ned , hard-edged plyv/Ood and somewhat monol ithic designs. They lack the spunk, pop, a nd zip of the local dine r a nd ca ll overpO\"le r a small s pace. The Country Diner com bines the fee l of th e sma ll town din e r with a modern Ra re that keeps up wi th

102 • TH E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS

your fami ly. Wh ile \.ve've llsed ply\vood for the benc h su ppo rts, we wrapped it in war me r whi te pi ne that can be left clea r, painted , or pic kl ed. The sea tboards a nd tabletop are made fro m edge-glued pine, but you can choose other mate rial s if yo u prefer. The tongue-a nd-groove pine pane ling \'vrapp ing the benches adds co ntour a nd shado w lines while th e bench's bac k grows right out of the seat. T he ascend ing mode rn line delive rs a slee k shape whi le the w ide bench ca p provides a ni ce capita l a long wi th a flat surface. The modern su rface looks like it mi ght o nce have supported \,vhite cerami c coffee c ups a nd short-s ta c ks back when din e rs loo ked li ke train ca rs, yet it's mode rn and to ugh eno ugh to stand u p to busy fam ilies t hat \,v ill use the co untry d ine r fo r a lot more than b rea kfast.

Materials

Tools Tablesav" Circular saw and shooting board Jig saw Tape measure Cord less d rill/driver

Counters in k Combination sq uare Framing square i\II iter saw Table saw

F in ish materials

(6) tab leto p clips (2) Metal L-brackets Sc rews Na ils C lue 2) 2 x 8" x 10ft. pine 4) 2 x 4" x 8 ft. pine

2) 3/; x 4 ft. x 8 ft. plywood 10) I x 4" x 8 ft. pi ne 2) 1 X 8" X 8 ft. pinc 7) 1 X 10" X 8 ft. pinc 1) I X 12" X 8 ft . pine 7) 3/8 x 3'12" X 8 ft. pine bead-board

Cutting List Key

Part

No.

Material

Size

Key

Part

No.

Tobie strut/front

Size

Material

A

Bench upright

4

1'1, x 5Y, x 50

Rip from 2 x 8

1

l'I, x3x28

Rip from 2 x 4

B

Bench support

6

V.x lB x l8

Plywood

J

Tobie strut/ledger 3

1'/,x3x24

Rip from 2 x 4

C

Bench strut

10

¥. x 31h x 60

lx4

K

Apron

J;4x 3x52 V4

Rip from 1 x 4

D

Seot buck [UP

2

%x 7 x 61 Vl

lxB

L

Tobie leg·front

%x 1111. x 29 V4

Cut from 1 x 12

E

Seot boords

4

V.x 9 x 61 Y,

1 x 10 (edge gluel

M

Tobie leg buck

%x ll l/. x 26 V4

Cut from 1 x 12

F

Buck ponel

2

¥.x I8x57

Plywood

N

Tobletop boords

'i. xl0x60

Cut from 1 x 12

G

8uck cleot

8

0/4 X 3/4 X

18

Pine

0

T&G clodding

%x6xcuttofil

Beodboord

H

Buck cleut

4

1'4 X¥' X2 1/4

Pine

2

3

COlllllry Di ller •

103

How to Build a Country Diner MAKE THE BENCH FRAMES The framework for th e diner benches is made by fabricating six identical bench supports from p lywood (three per bench ). The supports are notched to accept five 1 x 4 st rut s thelt tie the sup ports together
cladding. It's important that the bench supports be identical so th e notches al ign co rrectly (othen,vise th e benches won't be square). The best way to make this happen is by fabri cating a pattern that wi ll serve as the template for cutting the other pieces. For greatest accuracy, use a route r and a template bit to cut the bench suppo rt s. But if yo u are reasonab ly handy w ith

a ci rcular saw and jig sa"v, YO LI can lise the first be nc h support as a patte rn for markin g an d cuttin g the ot he rs. Cut ten 3 1h" by 5-ft.-long struts from I X 4 pine. Then, to make th e legs, cu t %" plywood into six identical J 8 x J 8" blanks. Taper one of the bl anks J" at each side, so the top edge is J6" lo ng (photo I ). Lay Ollt t he 3/4 X 3 1h" notches for t he struts according to th e diagram on page I 03. Cut the notches with a jig saw (photo 2). Clean up cut edges on the first bench support with a sande r, then use the first support as a pattern for laying out the taper lines and notches on the rest of the \vorkpieces.

Use a circular saw and straightedge guide to make taper cuts on the first bench support.

Carefully cut strut notches using a jig saw. See drawing for locations. Using a cut-off from a strut as a tracing pattern will help you get accurate cuts.

104 • THE COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUlLT-l NS

Startin g with the to p stru t, attac h th e strut s to the

be nch support s, spac ing th e middl e be nch support exactly m id way in eac h benc h frame (photo 3) . Use

2 x 8 stock. Ma ke sure to take stock from eac h side so you remove the slight bu llnose edges that are cut at th e lu mber mil l. Se t yo ur pO\ver mi ter smv to m
glue an d wood screws dri ven in counters unk pilot

12 degree cuts. T rim th e ends in parallel cuts to Cllt

ho les to a ttac h th e struts to th e benc h supports .

th e upri ghts to le ngt h (photo 4). Attach th e upri ghts to th e ins ide faces of the outer be nch supports,

F inall y, cut th e uprights. As shown, they are

sized to be rip -c ut to Rn ishecl size ( J '12 x 5'12") fro m

accordi ng to the placement in fo rmation on page 103.

Assemble the frames for the benches by attaching the struts to the bench supports with glue and screws. Take care to keep everything square.

use a miter saw to cleanly cut the angled seat upright prior to installation.

COlllllry Diller •

105

ADD THE BENCH BACKS The backs of the benches arc made by installing a plywood back board between the uprights and then cladding the backboard on both faces with tongue-a ndgroove pa nel ing. Start by cutting the cleat that you'll use to anchor the back board from I X stock. Cut e ight cleats (4 for each bench) to 18" and cut four to 2'/.". Install a short cleat and a long cleat in an L-s hape on th e inside face of each upright (photo 5). The top of the long c leat should be Rush with th e top of the up right. Us ing a ta ble saw or a ci rcula r saw and shooting board, cut the back pa nels to s ize. Apply a bead of

v,lood glue or ad hesive and lay the pa nels in to the

L-s haped brackets created by the two cleats (pho to 6). Drive cou nte rsunk 11/", " sc re\'vs th ro ugh the back panel and into the long cleat. I nsta ll the re main ing trim

pieces around the plywood seat backer.

CLAD THE BENCHES T he bases and backs of the benches are clad wit h pi ne tongue-an d-groove paneling (sometimes called carsiding) . Because the paneli ng on the en ds of the

benches that face the room concea ls the ir edges, insta ll the panel ing that's attached to t he benc h

Fabricate an L-shape to accept the

plywood bench back, then attach it to a bench upright.

A plywood backer gives the bench

back its rigidity. Install the backer using adhesive and fasteners.


<:I long its le ngth fi rst. C ut t he first pa neli ng boa rd to le ngth so the bottom end is sligh tl y above the

floo r a nd the to p e nds are fl us h with the tops of the benc h sup ports (the top ends wi ll be concealed by the sea tboard overhang). Then. trim off the groove

App ly panel ing to the front and back of th e bench base. To clad the bench ends (yo u o nly need to clad the end th at will face the room), hold a panel ing boa rd up against t he end and trace the angled edge onto th e

back side of the paneli ng (photo 8). C ut a long thi s line. Instal l this piece flus h to the bench en d. Fasten

to create a sol id wood edge at t he end of the bench. I f you ovm <:I pneumatic nail er, use it to drive nail s

an d com plete paneling installatio n fo r the benc h

th rough the tongue of the first pa neling board.

base. Also insta ll tongue-an d-groove panel ing boards

O th erwise, hand· nai l with 4d or 6d fin ish nails and

on th e fro nt an d bac k sides of each back pane l. T he boards s hou ld be flus h with th e top and bottom of the plywood bac k pa ne l.

set the heads with a nail se t. D rive at leas t one nail into each strut th at the pane ling board is posi ti oned

over (photo 7).

Begin installing the tongue·and· groove cladding on the base of the bench . You'll find many options, but %". thick paneling (sold in 14 sq. ft. packages) is an economical choice.

Trace the angle of the tapered bench onto the back side of a piece of paneli ng and tri m it to fit.

CO lllll ry Di ller •

107

Edge-glue two 9" wide boards to make each seat board, and glue up three 10" boards for the tabletop. Use a biscuit joiner to help ensure that the boards are aligned and level.

9

)

Mark the cutout locations for the uprights onto the seatboard and cut them with a jig saw

Cut the seat back cap to length from I X 8 stock an d attac h it to t he tops of the up ri gh ts a nd to t he top of the benc h back us ing glue and na ils. The ca p s hould overhang the front up ri ght by abou t I lhll and

be Aush vvit h the end of the bench that goes against the wa ll.

MAKE THE SEATBOARDS & TABLETOP Both th e seatboards and t he tab letop are co nstruc ted by edge-glu ing pine boards toge ther. If you have access to a woodwor king s hop, you' ll wa nt to joint t he edges of t he boa rds be fore you gl ue them toget her. O thenvise, make a n ice, cl ei:1Il rip-c ut alo ng each

edge \\lith a sharp circ ulur saw blade. For strength,

108 • TH E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS

it is not necessary to use splines, biscu its or dowels to re in force th e edge g lued joi nts, but any of t hese devices wi ll ass ist wit h al ignme nt. v\le used a biscuit joiner to al ign the glue-ups for bot h be nches and t he tab letop. Use at least t h ree or four pipe clamps w ith jav,l paddi ng to cla mp eac h glue- u p together (pho to 9 ). Afte r th e glue has dried overn ight, remove the clamps a nd sand t he glue-ups to remove any d ried glue squeeze-out. T he seat board must be no tched to fit mound t he up rights. Positio n t he board s o n the seat base, Au sh at t he \va ll end an d overhanging abou t 11/2 11 on t he room- side end . Mark th e location of the uprights o nto

1t

:::::::

.... j

.....

Attach the seatboards to the bench base with tabletop clips that secure gluedup panels but also allow for some wood

4']: t •••••

12

th e seat boa rd s, then re move them and ma ke cutouts with a j ig saw (photo 10 ). T ip the bench so th e end that goes against the wa ll is Aa t on the Aoor. Attac h a pa ir of tabletop

clips to the inside of the bench base nem eac h end, and a coup le more on eac h side . (Tab le top c lips a rc so ld a t woodwor kin g sto res an d in woodworkin g catalogs. T hey offer a means for faste nin g tab letops and benchtops, while still allowing for some ,",vood moveme nt. ) Atta ch the seat board from undern e ath using th e tab le top clips (photo 11 ).

Set the benches back down in the ir co rrect ori e ntation . C ut filler strips of 3/4!1~ thi c k pine and glue th em into th e ga ps between th e upri ghts an d

There are many tricks you can use to conceal the gap at the bottom of the cladding, as well as the ragged ends of the tongue-and-groove boards. A skilled woodworker would bevel-rip trim moldings and install them with compound miter joints.

the backs of the benc hes. Make sure the wood grain on th e fill e r strips has th e same orien tat ion as th e seatboards. As a last finishing deta il for t he benches (ot he r than sa nding, p<:I inting O f sta ining), attach some type of wood trim to concea l th e ga p betwee n th e tongucan d -groove board s an d the fl oor. If yo u use very small mo lding, such as sc reen retainer or vc ry na rrow base s hoe, you ca n probabl y get 3\vay with attaching the moldin g as is, using butt joints at the co rn ers.

Bu t fo r larger moldings (and fo r a more profess ional appea ra nce) yo u'll need to bevel-rip th e moldin g to allow for th e ta per of th e be nch base, as well as ma ke compound miter jo ints at th e co rn ers (p hoto 12).

COlllll ry Diller •

109

cut two identical leg halves, then trim 3" off the back one and face glue it with the front half to make a laminated table leg.

13

Attach the ledger for the tabletop to the wall with heavy-duty fasteners, such as counterbored lag screws driven at stud locations.

MAKE & INSTALL THE TABLE T he Co untry Di ne r ta ble is designed to be affixed to a wall , su pporte d b y a le dger boa rd on the wa ll

side while a leg fun s to t he Aoor o n t he ent ry side. T he length an d wid th o f th e tabl e are adj ustable to sllit you r pa rti cu lar set~u p but th e fabr ication

tech niqu es are th e same. The dimens ions spec ified in the drawing arc 30" \.vide and 5 Fe long. T he top of the table s urface is 3 0" above the Aoo r. Struts c u t from 2 x 4 pine a re added beneath t he tab le for bot h loo ks a nd stab ility. \A/e c hose to gl ue up a ru stic p ine tabletop (w hi c h s hou ld ge t ma ny coats of po lyu ret ha ne va rni sh). You may prefe r to have a ta ble top fabr icated

fro m so lid ~s llrfac i ng, quartz or na tural stone. Layo ut an d c ut th e leg fro m I X 12 pine. The front ha lf of the face-glued leg should run full height

110 • TH E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES

& BU1LT-1NS

(29'/,"), tapering from 4 " at the top to th e full wid th of the I X 12 ( 11 '//) a t th e bottom . Ma ke th e bac k ha lf-of the lami nated leg identical to th e front, bu t th en trim off th e top 3" to c reate a le dge for th e front ta bletop st rut (photo 13). Attach th e ledgers (photo 14). liip -e u t 2 x 4 pi ne stock to 3" wide to make all

four tabletop struts. Also rip-c ut so me I x 4 stock for the tv<'O Clp rons. C ut the front stru t to 281! lo ng Cl nd th e n clip th e bottom corners to give th e table both some "lift" and to create leg room as yo u enter the booth. C ut the ledger and the in ner struts to 24" long. Also cu t the aprons to 52 1/4" long from the 1 x 4 stock. Locate exac tl y w he re you r table w ill be fastened to

yo ur wa ll by arrang ing th e location of yo ur be nches an d then cen tering th e tab le between th e m. Us ing a ca rdboa rd cut·out to tai lor exactl y where you wan t th e

15

Assemble the table frame all at once on a flat surface.

Clamp the table leg to the front strut temporarily and check the tabletop for level. Attach the leg to the strut with glue and screws.

table and ben ches also \,viil help YO ll clistomi ze yo ur din er. Once YO ll find th e ce nter of the tab le location, find th e center of the ledger board a nd mark it. When installing th e ledger board, line up th ese two ma rks for a perfect fit. At the ledger board location , strike a level line 29'/," above th e Aoor. Find and mark the wa ll st ud locatio ns- try to \oc<1te the ledger so it spa ns t\VO stud s. In sta ll the ledger on layout using glue and the proper fasteners (photo 14). Idea lly, usc a %" X 3'h" countc rborcd lag sc rew dri ve r throu gh the ledge r and into wa ll studs, plus add itional sc rews and/or togg les to stab ilize the ledge r. On <:I nat surface, assemble the table frame by capturi ng th e short struts bet\,veen the apro ns (p hoto 15). The front strut sho uld be attached to th e apron s w it h L-b rac kets on t he inside joint.

Attac h th e tab letop to th e struts with one tabl etop cl ip near each end of each strut. Cla mp the leg to the front strut an d rest th e other end of the tab letop on the wall ledger, w hi ch shou ld fit between the free ends of th e apro ns (photo J 6). Adjust the height of the leg if necessary, and t hen attach it to the front stru t wit h glue an d screws. Drive screws through the ap ro ns in to the ends of the ledger.

APPLY FINISH, POUR COFFEE T he Co untry Dine r is shO\vn here with a light wood stain a nd high gloss polyurethane finish for ease of clea nin g. Le t all adhes ives, Ilnis h a nd pClint d I)' thoroughly befo re si ttin g dO\>vn at the Country Dine r fo r a slO\.v h o m e~cooked breakfast and tim e we ll spen t w it h fami ly an d friends .

COlllllry

Di,ler .

111

I Wall Niche A

wa ll niche is kin d of c ubby ho le carved into a stud wa ll , us uall y to house display she lvin g. T hese

da ys, they are often see n as prefash ioned inserts \,vith an arc h shape and Greco- Roman styling in higherend hOLising, ofte n with classical sta tu ary with in th e n ic he sides . T he niche shovm he re is a ra th e r diffe re nt animal. It is simply a wooden box that you s li p into a ho lc in th e wa ll an d then tri m out. As a qui c k and e asy sto rage p roject, it is a perfect accompan iment to our Fast Country Diner proj ect (see pages J 02 to J J J).

A niche creates

<1

perfect spot to stas h napkin

ho lde rs, salt a nd pep per shakers a nd oth e r tab lewa re so yo ur tab le surface is clea r for ea tin g, re laxin g or doin g a bi t of ho mewo rk. The ste ps, ski lls an d tool s desc ribe d here ca n be used to c reate wa ll ni c hes of va riou s sizes a nd in numerous locatio ns . It is importa nt to note, however,

112 • T H E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUlLT-l NS

that th ese ni c hes a re inte nd e d for non-load bea ri ng wa ll s. If t he ni c he you wish to c reate wou ld invo lve cutting framin g membe rs in a load beari ng \,vall, co nsider redesignin g t he project so you do not have to c ut wa ll stud s. i\llaking st ru ctural a lterations to a load -bea ring wa ll sho uld be done only by qualifie d profess iona ls . It's a lso im porta nt to be awa re of a ny electri ca l wires or gas or wate r p lumbing near your projec t area. Check to see if there a re li ght switches or p lugs above or be low th e nic he open ing befo re cuttin g ;md try to de du ce \vhe re plumbing mi ght be routed and located . Safety Notice: TI,.is project should be installed only

in non.loadbearing walls. Do not cut 1I7all studs in load hearing 1I7alls unless you are 1I70rki-ng 1I7ith a certified building engineer or professional carpenter.

Tools

Materials

DrY'Nall/plastcr cu tting saw Reciproca ti ng sa\'v Co rdl ess drill/driver

C ircu lar $m,,·

Countersink

DrY',va ll finishing tool s 2-foot leve l Aviato r sn ips

Ix6 Trim- head sc rews 1/4" birch plywood scra p 1%, " d ry,.vall sc re\'vs

Case mo lding

i\lliter S3\V

Paint

Cutting List Part

No.

Dese.

Size

Material

A

2

Top/bottom

%x 3%X 25 Y2"

Hordwood/MDF

B

2

Side

3/4 x

3% x 8"

Hordwood/MDF

C

Bock

%x 91/2x 25 Y1"

Plywood

D

Trim (opt.)

lh x 2

(ose molding

4

7/a"

x miter to fit

Hl1l1 Nie/Ie •

113

How to Build a Wall Niche LAY OUT THE NICHE

MAKE THE CUTOUT

Determine that the wal l you're cutting into is not a load-bearing wall. Determine the opening's finished location and height and \vidth. An 8" tall by 24" wi de n ic he is just the right scale fo r the kitc hen booth project we designed this ni c he to acco mpany (see

Turn off electrical power at the main circuit breaker. Use a dr)1\vall saw or rec iprocating saw to cut along the cut line. Make the cut as sha llow as you can in case

page 102). Use a 2·ft . level and mark al l fou r sides of

th e opening plumb an d leve l at t he finished loca tion. T hese lines arc the co ntrol points for all ot her measurements. Measure 3/:.'1out from each control point line (photo j ). Do t his at two points on each line and con nect the dots using a 2-ft. level.

there are hidden w ires or pipes in t he wall (p hoto 2).

Re move th e drywall, expos ing t he wa ll studs. More than like ly, yo u're going to have a wa ll stud or t\VO somew here in th e middle of the opening. Use a reciprocating saw to remove th e studs . Or, you ca n usc a c ircula r saw to start the cut (photo 3a), ca refull y aligning it with the edge of the drywall and using it to

cut the stud. Then, finish the c ut with a reciprocating saw (photo 3b). Be carefu l not to c ut t hrough t he drywa ll on the back side of the cut.

2

Start your layout by mapping out the niche's finished dimensions, then measure out from there for the rough opening where you will make your cuts. This is the cut line.

With electrical power turned off, cut the opening in the wall covering. Use caution in case there are hidden wires or pipes in the area.

use a circular saw to start the stud cut, then use a reciprocating saw to fin ish the cut. This method is easier on the drywall- especially if the studs back up to another room- and provides a straighter cut.

114 • T HE COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES

& BU1LT·1NS

Rip-cut the niche frame boards to width. Cutting them so th ey stop just short of the opposite wallcovering when installed.

5

vVhen removing stud s, you may pull a faste ner through from a n adjo ining roo m and have to repair th at afte rwa rd s . Na il s or screws may be penetrating from t he other side of the wa ll into th e stud . Ca re full y remove the stud sec tio n. It is like ly that re moving the stud section will cause th e fastener to pull thro ugh t he oppos ite s ide of the wa ll , so touc h -up may be necessary. Fo r most no n -loadbearing w<:I lI s th e compe te d ni c he box s hould provide adeq uate su ppo rt fo r the cut stud s. But if yo u arc cu ttin g morc th a n one stud , or if yo u s impl y \va nt to be certajn the nic he box does not sag fro m down wa rd pressure, make th e opening la rger a nd in sta ll a 2 X 4 fra me to hOllse th e nic he box. Thi s \,v ill requ ire cons iderably more patc hing of th e wa ll coveri ng, bu t you may apprec iate it for you r own peace of m ind.

Assemble the niche box. Drill countersunk pilot holes for the screws.

BUILD THE NICHE BOX Measure the depth of yo ur wa ll cavity a nd su btract

'hl! f rom the overa ll depth to give yo urself (l little bit of Aexibil ity vI/hen insta lling the ni che and to <:tllow fo r the th ic kn ess ( '//) of t he backer materia l. This m easu re m e nt yie lds the requi re d w id t h of th e boa rds yo u'll use to make th e ni c he box. Rip- c ut I X 6 X 8 lumber to t he required w idth , usi ng a tab lcsav" o r a ci rc ul a r smv w ith a st ra ighte dge gu ide (photo 4). Cut the frame parts to length. Fasten top a nd bottom niche frame parts to the sides w ith dIYv,'all screwS or trim -heud sc rews dri ven into co unte rsun k pilot ho les (photo 5). C ut the backe r board to size an d attac h it to t he back edges of th e fram e \,v ith drywall scre\'vs o r llni sh nai ls. Install backer ma terial (9 12 X 25 12") with drywall sc rews . 1

1

Hhll Niclle •

115

use standard casing to trim out the niche like a picture frame. Pre-installing the trim means you can slip the niche box assembly into the opening and the trim guides how the box sets against the wall, similar to how a pre-hung door is installed.

6

Fasten the niche box up into the stud ends with finish nails.

C ut trim mo ldings (s uch as doo r casing or picture frame molding) to fit t he ni c he box. For the most satisfying res ults, c hoose a moldin g style a nd approach th at refl ects the mold ing sche me already in the room. Faste n th e t rim to th e ni c he box wi th finis h nails and glue or panel adhes ive (photo 6). Run a sma ll bead of cau lk/adhes ive on th e face of th e nic he box. Na il casi ng to ni c he box.

INSTALL THE NICHE BOX T he ni c he box is faste ned through the interior wa lls of th e box to th e ends of the stud (s) you removed . It ca n also be fastened to blocks you in sta ll in t he wa ll

116 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES

& BU1LT-1NS

cavity on eac h side. Locate eac h st ud and transfe r its location to the inte ri or of t he box a nd mark it. Test-fit th e n iche box to make s ure it lays Rat aga in st drywall. W hen yo u have estab li shed that th e fit is good , rlln a bead of ca ul k/adh es ive on the backsides of th e trim p ieces . Inse rt th e ni che box into the opening. Press firml y so t he trim squeezes into t he adh esive. Pre-drill ho les at st ud locations an d fasten with a pa ir of 6d Ilnis h na ils dri ve n through the fmllle boards and into the e nds of the c ut wa ll stud s (photo 7). Fill and sa nd fastener holes. Sand an d ca ulk as necessal)'. Prime and paint or app ly another finish of your c hoice.

Options for Making a Wall Niche

~

One key to cutting in a wall niche is to understand that you must cut a larger hole in your wall than the finished dimensions of the wall niche. So first, you determine the niche's finished location and opening dimensions and mark them out on the wall. You then measure from those lines so that the niche box fits inside the wall. Although making the niche so it fits precisely within a stud bay has some built-in efficiencies, it is not necessary. As you'll see in this project, as long as you're building in a nonload bearing wall you can locate your niche just about anywhere you choose. Three options for trimming out a wall niche are described here. The first is to frame a wood niche insert with picture-frame trim. The second is to use a drywall wrap created with blocking inside the wall cavity and finished with joint compound to blend with the surrounding wall. The third option simply involves installing a prefabricated product.

Build your niche completely out of wood, insert it into a hole cut in the wall and trim it with picture molding (as seen on previous pages).

Frame the niche opening and install a wood shelf at the bottom, then trim out the opening with wallboard using common taping and finishing techniques.

purchase a prefabricated wall niche from an architectural millwork supplier and install it in a properly sized wall opening.

Hhll Niclle •

117

I Room Divider A

room divider, like a partition wall, separates one large room into two usable spaces, each \vith its ovm specific function. But unlike a partition \>I/ a ll , a room divider adds storage space to your home, w hil e letting YOLI retain the open feeling of a larger room. Room dividers commonl y are llsed to separate a large kitchen/dining area into two different "rooms ." Add ing a pass-through and overhanging cQuntcrtop, as in the project shown here, creates a casual dining area. In the design featured here, the room divider is built in two main sectio ns: the base cab ine t with countertop, and the LIpper shelf unit. The two section s are joined by a Aoar-ta-ceiling plyv/ood framework to crea te one attractive built· in. A room divider lends itself to personal touches, like mounting a win e rac k and ste mwa re racks on the und e rside of th e she lf unit to make a conve nient dry bar. The overhanging cou ntertop gives this room divider eln <:Idded dim ension as a co nvenie nt dinin g surface loc<:Ited near the food preparation a rea of the kitchen. The cabinets o n the kit c hen sid e of the room divider also provide accessible storage space for pots, pans, and kitchenwa re . T he open shelves in the upper half of the room divider are ideal for displaying glass\vare or collectibles. \tVe deSigned this room divider with a built·up plyv.rood countertop that has a polyurethane varnis h finish. This is an eco nomi cal and perfectly approp riate so lution . But if you 're lookin g to spice up the design a bit, co nsider replac in g th e cou nte rtop v..rith a hi ghcr. e nd countertop material, suc h as granite or solid · surfac in g. You'll be amazed at how much di ffere nce a fe\\' vve ll ·chosen design hi ghli ghts ca n make in the over<:tll appearance of th e project.

118 • T HE COMPLETE GUIDE TO CU STOM SH ELVE S & BU1LT-1NS

H

c o Q

R

,

, ,

JI

1r

,

II

,

II

Construction Detail, Front View

Room Di vider •

119

Cutting List

Tools Stepladder Peneil

Handscrev.' clamps

Level Tupe meaSure Plumb bob Framing square

Part

No.

Desc.

Ba r clamps Dri ll/driver and bits

Size

Material

A

4

Top ond sole plotes

71 Y,'

2x 4

Screwdriver

B

4

Sale plate cross braces

15"

2x 4

Hammer Na il set Putty knife

C

Outer end ponel

95 W' xiS"

3/, ook plywood

D

I

Inner end panel

91" xiS"

'(." ook plywood

E

3

Bose ponels

22" x

3(." ook plywood

F

3

Cobinet shelves

21 3(." x 14'1,

3(." ook plywood

6

Cabinet risers

30" x

3(." ook plywood

Cobinet bock ponel

32" x 70"

1(."

(ountertop panels

70 W' x24"

3(." ook plywood

J

Shelf unit supports

33" xiS"

3(." ook plywood

K

Top, bottom shelf ponels

70y," xiS"

3(." ook plywood

L

Center shelf ponel

69'1." xiS"

3(." ook plywood

Shelf-edge trim Pin -style shelf supports

M

Shelf unit sides

25 W' xiS"

3(." ook plywood

N

Shelf unit risers

12 W' x IS"

'(." ook plywood

Fini sh ing materials

0

Face frame roils

33 lineor ft.

I x 4 ook

p

Foce frome stiles

26 linear ft.

Ix200k

Q

Face frame stiles

12 linear ft.

Ix300k

R

Overloy doors

see poges 46 to 47

Route r v-l it h 3// st raight bit C ircular saw or table saw

Materials

G

Wood glue

H

Finish nails ( I", 1/~1t, 2" )

S'CreHIS ( I I! ,

] 1/-I, "

21\ , 21/:" 2) 3'1)

Shims 3// hard wood strip s Countertop trim

Door ha rd wa re 5) 2 X 4" X 8 ft. pine 5) I X 4" X 8 ft. oak 4) I x2"x8ft.oak I ) 1/, X 4 ft. X 8 ft. oak p lywood 4) 3(, X 4 ft. X 8 ft. oak plywood

14'(."

14'(."

ook plywood

ROOM DIVIDER PROJECT DETAILS

2"0=

+

4"

.+

Cabinet risers, cut from ¥.' plywood, have holes for pin-style shelf supports drilled at 4" intervals, 2" in from edges of each riser face. Holes start 9" from top and bottom.

Shelf-unit panels, cut from 'I." plywood, have W'-wide by '!,"-deep dadoes to hold the shelf risers. The center shelf panel is dadoed on both the top and the bottom faces, and the top and bottom shelf panels are dadoed on one face only.

120 • T H E COMPLETE C UIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUILT-tNS

How to Build a Room Divider

1

Mark the location for the top plates on the ceiling, using a framing square to ensure that lines are perpendicular to the wall. Locate wall studs and ceiling joists in the project area, and install blocking if necessary

2

cut two 2 x 4 top plates and position them against the ceiling, with the outside edges flush against the reference lines. Check to see if plates are level, and install shims if needed . Anchor plates to ceiling Joists or blocking, using 3" screws.

4

Cut and attach 2 x 4 cross braces across the sale plates, using 2'/''' screws. Position the cross braces at the ends of the sale plates, and below the planned cabinet riser locations.

cut two 2 x 4 sole plates, and align them directly under the top plates, using a plumb bob as a guide. Check to see if plates are level, shim if needed, then anchor the sale plates to the floor, using 3" screws.

5

Measure and cut the outer end panel 'h" shorter than the floorto-ceiling height to allow for adjustments. Align end panel with the edges of the 2 x 4 plates, then attach it to the top and sale plates, using 2'h" screws driven into counterbored pilot holes.

Room Divider •

121

6

Planned height of countertop~

------tIll"

•

Measure and cut the inner end panel 'h" shorter than the distance between the top plate and sale plate cross braces, and slide it in place. Align the panel with the edges of the top plate and sale plate cross braces, then attach it to the wall with 2'/," screws driven into wall studs or blocking.

Measure and cut plywood cabinet risers with holes for shelf supports (see Project Details, page 120). Risers should be '1." narrower than end panels, and 1'/," shorter than the distance from sale plate cross braces to planned countertop height. Attach a riser to each end panel, flush with the front edge, by driving 1'1." screws through counterbored pilot holes.

Measure and cut plywood base panels the same width as the risers. Lay one base panel across the sale plate cross braces, butted against the riser at the inner end panel, with the '{," recess at the back side (inset). Attach the base panel, using 2" finish nails.

Make riser assemblies (for inner riser locations) by Joining two risers together, back-to-back, with glue and 1'{," finish nails. Set one riser assembly on the cross brace next to the first base panel, and attach it with 2W' screws driven through pilot holes and into the base panel edge.

122 •

T H E COMP LETE GU IDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS

11

Install the middle base panel, then the second riser assembly, then the last base panel, using the techniques shown in steps 8 to 9.

Measure and cut two plywood countertop panels, 24" wide, to fit between the end panels and set the first panel on the cabinet risers, flush with the front edges of the end panels. use a framing square to adjust the risers so they are perpendicular to the countertop, then drill pilot holes and drive 2W' screws through countertop and into risers.

12

Apply glue to the top of the fi rst countertop panel, then set the second countertop panel on th e first panel. Clamp the panels together, then join them by driving '" screws up through the underside of the first panel.

Measure and cut a W' oak plywood back panel to fit into the recess created by the back edges of the risers and base panels (see step 8). Set the back panel into the recess, then attach it to the cabinet risers and base panels, using '" wire nails driven at 8" intervals.

Room Divider •

123

Measure and cut plywood shelf panels for the upper shelf unit, then cut '!."-wide, 'I,"-deep dadoes at shelf riser locations (see Project Details, page 120). Tip: "Gang-cut" dadoes to speed up your work: mark locations for dado cuts on panels, then clamp them together so dado marks align.

Measure and cut plywood shelf unit sides. Make a 'I," -wide, %"-deep dado in each side, where the center shelf panel will fit

Shelf risers

. Center s helfY • panel

Bottom shelf panel

Measure and cut plywood shelf unit risers the same width as the center shelf Stand the center shelf panel on its side, then glue the shelf risers into dadoes. Reinforce the joints with 2" screws driven into counterbored pilot holes.

124 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUILT-INS

Assemble the remaining pieces of the upper shelf unit, using glue and 2" screws driven into counterbored pilot holes. Attach side panels to center shelf, then attach top and bottom shelf panels to side panel and shelf risers. Make sure diagonal measurements of shelf unit are equal (if not, adjust unit as needed until it is square).

19

Measure and cut plywood shelf unit supports. Supports should be tall enough to leave a gap of about 1" beneath the top plates when the shelf unit is mounted on their top edges. Attach the shelf unit supports to the inner and outer end panels, using glue and 1'1." finish nails.

20

Align the edges of the upper shelf unit with the edges of the end panels. Attach the shelf unit by driving 1'1." finish nails through the side panels and into the end panels. Space nails 4" apart, along outer edges of shelf unit.

With a helper, lift the shelf unit onto the tops of the shelf unit supports. There should be a gap of about 1" between the shelf unit and the top plates.

21

Set a 2 x 4 brace between the countertop and the shelf unit, then measure and cut 1 x 4 top and bottom rails for the face frames. Miter the corner joints at the edges of the outer end panel, and butt the trim against the wall at the inner end panel. Drill pilot holes, and attach rails with glue and 2" finish nails driven into panels and framing members.

Room Divider •

125

22

23

Measure and cut 1 x 4 countertop rail to reach from the wall to the outside edge of the outer end panel, on the front side of the room divider. Attach the rail to the edge of the countertop, using glue and 2" finish nails driven through pilot holes.

Measure and cut 1 x 2 face frame stiles to fit between the bottom rail and the top rail at the back of the room divider. Make a %" x 1W' notch in each stile, where the edge of the countertop will fit Attach the stiles to the end panels, using glue and 2" finish nails driven through pilot holes.

24

Measure and cut 1 x 2 stiles to fit between the countertop rail and the top rail at the front of the room divider. Position stiles over the edges of the end panel, and attach with glue and 2" finish nails driven through pilot holes.

126 • T H E COMP L ETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES

& BU1LT-1NS

Cover the countertop overhang with ornamental trim molding mitered at a 45 angle at corner joints. Attach with glue and 1'/;" finish nails driven through pilot holes. 0

27

Measure and cut 1 x 3 stiles to fit between the bottom rail and the countertop rail on the back side of the room divider Position end stiles flush with the outside faces of the end panels, and center the interior stiles over the riser assemblies. Attach with glue and 2" finish nails driven through pilot holes.

28

Attach W' shelf-edge strips to all exposed edges of the upper shelf unit, using glue and 1" finish nails driven through pilot holes. Cut horizontal strips the full length of the shelf unit, then add vertical strips between the horizontal strips.

29

.. •

Cut adjustable shelves for the cabinets, attach shelf-edge trim if desired, then install shelves, using pin-style shelf supports.

Cover gaps at ceiling with cove molding, and along floor and wall with base shoe molding. Fill holes, sand, then apply fin ish. Build, finish, and hang overlay cabinet doors (pages 46 to 47). Attach all remaining hardware.

Room Divider •

127

I Laundry Center M

any of the a reas where we do our laundry lack two important features: organization and li ghti ng. T h is la und I)' ce nte r is a self-co ntai ned buil tin t hat funct ions like a roo m w it hin a room, addi ng bo th storage s pace and tas k lighting fo r what can otherwise be a disagreeab le tas k. It is built fro lll a base cab inet and butc he r b lock countcrtop on o ne side of a 24"-wide , 7 ft. ta ll stu b wall, and a ban k of wa ll cab inets o n t he ot her side of the wal l. The cab inets are desig ned to Ilt above a was he r an d dryer co m bo. T he s tructu re in cludes a ce ilin g w ith light fixt u res mou nted ove r bot h s ides, a nd a sw itc h \\f ired into the stu b wall to co nt rol t he Iigh ts. The \va ll s are b uilt fro m inexpe n sive wa ll shea th ing a nd, a long vl ith the ceili ng, a re c lad w ith easy to \.vas h ti le board that adds


& BU1LT-1NS

brightness \vh ile contrasting with the maple wood of the cab inets. The edges of the center are trim med v" it h c lea r map le. If yo u are creating your bu ilt-in laun dry center in a room tha t di d not previo usly ho use yo u r was he r an d d ryer, arra nge for an d have insta ll e d the hookups for bo th app lia nces befo re you bui ld. If you arc not experienced w ith plu m b in g an d wi ring, hire a plum ber and elect ri cia n to run any new dra in , supply, d ryer ve n t or e lectrical service li nes. A lso make sure to identify potentia l so u rces for elect rical service to pO\ve r the ligh ts (in t he vers ion see n here, \ve ins ta ll e d recessed c<:tnister lights over t he cou ntertop <:tnd <:t bove the washer and dryer).

Tools Tape Measure

Level Pencil

E

Square

Drill/driver & bits Pmvder-actuated nai ler H ammer or pneumatic nailer

Jig saw

Tileboard ,/ "

F

H

Tileboard

Materials

Cutting List

(2) 4 x 8 sheets wa ll sheathi ng (7/16 OK, 23/32 better) (3) 4 x 8 sheets tileboard with an 8-ft. inside corn er

Part

strip and panel adhesive

No.

A

3

Desc.

Size

Material

Cop/Sill plate

1'I, x 3'1, x 24"

2x 4

Stud

1'/, x 3V, x 79"

2x 4

(2) Recessed ca ni ster light w ith trim kit

B

( I) Undercabinet fluorescent fixture (direct wire ) - 24" ( I) Clothes rod (24" ) wi th mounting hardware I x 2, I X 4 a nd I x 6 map le for trim

C

Full wall

s;, x24x82"

Sheathing

D

Wall cop

%x 512 x 79"

Maple 1 x 6

E

Ceiling

'I, x 24 x 100"'

Sheathing

F

Half wall

'l, x24x43"

Sheathing

Top trim

%x

51/1 X

Bose cabinet

34'1," h x 36" w

Stock cabinet

Wall cabinets

12 x 30 x 30"

Stock cabinets

(ounlerlop

1'!. x2Sx36

Counlertop

32" vv ide base cab inet

Butcher block countertop for base ca bi net (2) 28" 2-door uppers Electrical box. switch, 14/2 romex , switch pla te End pa ne l for upper cab inets Panel adh es ive

D'Y'vall or dec k sc rews Na il s (4) I 'h x 3'12 X 96 pine

G H

J

4

1

cut to fit

Maple 1 x 6

'IoCan be pieced toge th er from two boards joined at th e

c rotch of the L.

LW/J!dry Cellfe r •

129

I How to Build a Laundry Center

Attach the base plate for the stub wall perpendicular to the wall, allowing space between the stub wall and the corner for your base cabinet

After toe-nailing the studs to the base plate (and face nailing the stud next to the wall if possible) attach the cap plate, making sure the studs are vertical.

Run cable and install boxes for the light fixtures. Hire an electrician to do this if you are not experienced with home wiring. (Note that you will need to apply for a permit and have your wiring inspected.)

T hi s blli l t ~ in laundry center is a nc hored by a 7 ~ foot ~ tal l, 24 "-widc stub wa ll , so start by framing the wa ll. Measure out from the corner the width of your base cab inet (3 6" here ) and draw a 24"- long reference line perpendicu lar to the wa ll. Cut a 2 X 4 wa ll plate to 24" and attach it to the Aoor. If you are building in a basement wi th a co ncrete Aoo r, lise pressure-trea ted lumber for the base plate and attach it by dri ving co nc rete nails with a powder-actuated nailer (photo I). Cut three 2 x 45 to 79" long and attac h them to the base plate by toe-nailing (reinforce con nections w it h L-brackets if YOLI \\fish ). The n , cut a 24"- long cap pbte and nai l it to th e free ends of t he st uds with 16d co mm on na ils (photo 2). If yo u are instal li ng overhead ligh ting, run cable from th e power so urce (don't hook lip the \,v ires yet) through the stud s a nd to a n electrical switch box mounted to the wa ll frame (photo 3). Also run s hea thed ca bl e from the electrical box and out through a ho le in the wal l cap p late. Run enoug h ca ble to reach the li ght fixtures. \lI,!e wired the fixtures in series: the pO\ver lead goes to the electrical box for the undercabi net light Il rst, and then run s from the box to th e canister light. If yo u prefer to swi tch th e light independen tl y, install a double gang box a nd ca ble for two switched circui ts .

FRAME THE STUB WALL

130 • T HE COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES

& BU1LT-1NS

INSTAll THE BASE CABINET

INSTAll THE WAllS

We designed thi s laundry center \v ith matc hin g base and uppe r ca bine ts. Insta l1 t he base cabi ne t betwee n th e stub wa ll and the co rn er (p hoto 4- see pages 58 to 59 for informat ion o n inst
At the ve ry least, yo u'll need to cove r bot h sides of t he stub wa ll for your laundry center. If th e wal ls in your in stallation a rea are fit fo r coverin g with tileboard, yo u "von 't need to create a ny add itional "vall s ur faces. I n part to c reate an attachment surfac e fo r t he c lothes rod , we a lso insta lle d a wa ll surface on t he left s ide of th e project area. T he wa ll s urfaces are c reated by attach ing sheath in g to the wa ll studs a nd th en bonding water-res ista n t tileboard over the faces of t he s hea thin g w ith pane l ad hesive. C ut a piece of wa ll s heath ing that's t he same w idt h as th e stub wa ll a nd reac hes th e same heig ht ,·v he n placed on th e countertop su rface. Attach th e shea thin g to th e sid e of t h e co u n te rto p

5

4

!

Install the base cabinet between the stub wall and the corner, making sure it is level and securely attached to at least one wall.

Attach the countertop material (butcher block is seen here). The countertop should be flush against both walls and it should overhang the base cabinet slightly.

Lnwzdry Cellfer •

131

area (photo 6). I nse rt a couple of fur ring stri ps bet\vee n the s heathin g and the wa ll to creute C.O. , ..,.1Stud

'1 •lot aiion

aI rspace. C lad th e stub wa ll on both sides with wa ll shea thi ng (photo 7). Ma ke a cutout for the switc h box, T he sheathin g o n the countertop s ide sho uld rest on the cou nte rtop. Slip a co upl e of shi ms und erneath the

\,vail sheathing on the vvas her and dryer side so the shea thing does not con tact th e floor, whi c h ca n lead to wicking of wa ter. C ut picccs of tile board to fit t he wa ll surfaces and attach them wi th panel adhes ive . Attac h inside corner stri ps c ut to Ilt at the inside corners of th e countertop area (photo 8), Rub t he tile board su rfaces aggressively w it h balled -up towe ls to he lp seat th e tileboard into the adhes ive.

HANG THE UPPER CABINETS

Attach wall sheathing to the wall to create a nailing surface at the wall end of the countertop area.

The upper ca binets sho uld be mounted on th e \.va ll s so th e ir tops a re nu sh wi th th e top of the st ub wa ll and th ey butt up aga inst th e stub wa ll at the s ide . Attach ,",vith a ledger sys tem or by dri ving cabi ne t scre\vs through the mounting strips and in to th e wa ll at stud locations (photo 9 ), See p"ges 54 to 59 fo r more informCitio n on hCl nging wCl II ca bin ets. If th e ex posed ca binet e nd is not fini s hed, purchase a nd install an e nd pane l to matc h th e ca binet type (or, make one from 'I," pl ywood).

MAKE & INSTALL THE CEILING You'll find that it's eCisiest to c ut th e ceil ing board, attac h th e til eboard and mOllnt th e ligh t fixt u res a ll before you attach the ce iling asse mbl y to th e st ub wa ll and cabinets . Sta rt by cuttin g th e ce iling boa rd to size an d s hape from a piece of 4 x 8 sheathi ng (photo J 0 ). We des igned the cei li ng to be 24" wide above th e ca bin et, then to c ut bac k to J 8" wide over the \,va il cabin ets, whi ch creates CI 6 11 overhang above the cabinets so an unde rcCl bine t light fixture can be mounted if yo u \vish . As shown , th e si de ~ to- side w idth of th e structure is over 96", so a single piece of 4 X 8 ft. wall sheathin g \,vo n't cove r it. You'll need to make th e ceili ng in two pieces, so size th e pieces so the scam falls in th e middle of th e top plate for the stu b wall.

Clad the stub wall on both sides with wall sheathing, making sure to cut out accurately for the switch box.

132 • T HE CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS

8 •

Cover the wall surfaces with tile board, which is attached with panel adhesive and set by rubbing with a rag.

install the wall cabinets so they are level and their tops are flush with the top of the stub wall.

10

Cut the ceiling to size and shape from a piece of sheathing (you'll need multiple pieces if your project is more than 8 ft long).

Lnwzdry Ce llfer

•

133

·

I

'------.I

Mount the hardware and box for the light f,xture to the ceiling panel before you install the ceiling.

Attach the ceiling panel to the laundry center wall and the

cabinets.

13b

13a

Make the wiring connections at the light fixtures (left) and

at the switch (right).


& BU1LT-1NS

Att<:lc h t ileboa rd to the ceili ng p<:lnel o n th e face that wi ll be fac ing dovvll\,va rd. The n , plot out the location s for the ligh t fixt ures a nd mount t he housi ngs a nd ceiling boxes to th e back of th e ce iling pa ne l as needed (photo II ). Set t he ceiling panel over the laun dry cente r and attac h it wit h nails or screws driven into the top plate of t he st ub wa ll a nd the cabinet sides (p hoto 12) .

14

HOOK UP LIGHTS & INSTALL TRIM Make th e w iring con nec tion s at t he light llxtures and at th e switch (photo s 13a and 13b) . You wi ll need to have a \v iring inspection before makin g the Ilna l hookup at the power source. C ut pieces of I x 6" map le to muke th e top t ri m. Miter th e outside and ins ide corne rs <:IS you inst<:l ll the trim . Use a pne um at ic nai ler to <:Ittach the trim if you have access to one (photo 14 ). Attac h the vertical trim mem be rs to cove r the wa ll at the left s ide of the project and t he e nd of th e st ub wa ll (photo 15 ). Scribe as ne cessa ry (see page 66) and rip th e stu b wa ll trim to Ilt. For a more Iln ished look, round over the edges of the vert ical trim pieces sl igh tl y. Fina ll y, sl ide in, level a nd hook up your was her a nd drye r (photo 16). Ma ke sure to follow loca l codes for wate r a nd drain supply a nd for ve ntin g your dryer.

Trim out the top of the structure with 1 x 4 hardwood to conceal the gap beneath the ceiling panel. If you prefer, you can use crown molding here.

16

Attach the vertical trim boards, butting them up against the top trim and keeping the bottom slightly above the floor. Apply a finish and top coat to the trim boards as desired.

Install your washer and dryer (or have your appliance dealer install them for you).

Lnwzdry Cellfer •

135

I Towel Tower I

f there's one place in the house that co ll ects everybody's stuff, it's th e bathroom. Towe ls,

cloth es, cleaning supplies, eve n laundry. Bu t so me fancy design \vork lI sing a couple of refri gerator \va ll ca bin ets and some cool ca rpen try crea te a niche spot that can provide a ce ntral loca ti on For al l kind s of different items. Suitable even for sma ll bathrooms, this towe l to\'ve r also adds texture and co lor to the

space. And another added benefit to th is project is the sea ting provided

by

th e countertop to p on the

ca bin et.

The beadboard backi ng fo r thi s project is made v,lith painted -%"-thic k tongue and groove pine, some tim es called carsiding. IVlore advanced ca rpenters may pre fe r to make th e ir own Cll s tom bead board from hard wood an d give it a custom wood fini sh. The base for thi s projec t is an over-the-fridge si ze

wa ll cabinet (sometimes ca lled a bridge cabinet). At I S!! high, it is within the range of comfortable seating heights. But if you prefer a slightly higher sea t (an d

rnan y peo ple do), build a 2 X 4 c urb for the cabinet to rest on (see the Window Seat project on pages 80 to 87 for in fo rmation on how to install a seat in a 2 x 4 cu rb ). To concea l the sea m w here the towe l towe r mee ts the Aoor, we trimmed around the ba se w ith base shoe trim , mitering the corners.

vVe used th e sa me trim

stock to co nceal the ga p w here the sea tboard meets th e tongue-an d-groove paneling. H ere, however, \ve added small miter return s to th e en ds of th e ba se shoe

(sec pages 42 to 43 ).

136 • T HE COM PLETE GUIDE TO CU STOM SH ELVE S & BU1LT-1NS

E

Materials 32 sq. ft. tongue-and-groove paneling (2) I X 6 X 8 Ft. pine 3 ft. crown molding liz sheet W'-thick MDF 12

ft.

qU<:Irter- rou nd molding

Towel hooks Faste ners

Cutting List Key No.

Description

Size

A

Over·fridge cobinel

ISh x 30w x 24d

Material

B

I

Seotboord

0/, x 2S x 32*

MOl

C

8

T&6 pone ling

%x S1flX 71 W**

Pine

D

2

Towel hook bockers ¥. x SV1 x 27"

Pinelx6

E

3 lin. ft.

Crown molding

CUi 10 fil (w/milers)

Pine

F

12 lin. ft. V.-round molding

Cullo fil

Pine

'I-

c

Finished size: requ ires slightly large r board for machi ni ng

** Length equa ls di stcll1ce from top of seatbo<:l rd to ceiling minus Ih"

Towel Tml'er •

137

How to Build a Towel Tower INSTAll THE BASE CABINETS Begin by making t he seatboard that tops t he refrigerator cab inet. Cut a piece of medium dens ity fiberboard (M OF) so it is I " wider than t he cabinet

<:I nc! a couple of inches lo nger front -to-back (make it about 26" if using a 24" ca binet as show n here ). Mo unt a piloted ogee or ro un dove r bit (or ot he r profil ing bit of yo ur choice) into yo u r rou te r and s hape the front and side edges (p hoto I). You'll p robab ly get a litt le bit of blow-out at th e bac k edge, whic h is why it's recommended that you make the workpiece a couple of inches too long. Once you've routed t he p rofiles, trim the back edge so the front overha ngs t he cab inet by I II, Coat all faces and edges with pri me r and at least tv,ro coats of paint.

Rout a profile, such as an ogee or roundover, into the sides and front of the seatboard. use a router table if you have one, otherwise hand-machine it with a piloted profiling bit.

138 • T H E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES

& BU1LT-1NS

Attac h t he seatboard with screws d rive n through the mountin g st rips on the cab inet top and in to the un derside of the seatboard. The back edge of the seatboard s hould be nush with t he back edge of t he cab inet and t he overhang shou ld be equal on the sides. Since this cab inet is small, it might be best to clamp the blank in location on t he cabinet, then turn the cabinet on its back so you ca n access t he faste ner locatio ns more eas ily (p hoto 2). Insta ll the ca binet in t he project location. 13aseboard and any othe r obstructions s hou ld be removed from the project area. Slip shi ms be low and behi nd t he cab inet as needed to make sure it is leve l an d pl umb. Attac h t he cabinet to the wall by driving 2" wa ll board screws t h rough the cab inet bac k at wa ll stud locations (p hoto 3) .

Because these cabinets are so small, it's easier to pre-gang them together, then flip the assembly upside down to install the seatboard.

3

Drive screws through the back of the cabinet at the marked wall stud locations.

-

INSTALL THE PANELING T he backer boa rd fo r the towe l tower ca n be made fro m a nu mber of bu ild ing materials, \,v hi le retai ning the beadboard appea rance that lends a bit of co un try style to t hi s project. The easiest and c heapest product you can usc is beadboard pa neling: th in sheet stock that comes in 4 X 8 ft . panels . You'll find a wide range of colors, patterns and qua lit ies in the beadboard sheet stock, including some that is pre-s ized to around 42" for ins ta ll at ion as v,ra in scot in g. The c he
Midpoint

-\

Layout the tongue-and-groove carsiding boards in a row, with the tongues fitted into grooves. Measure out in one direction (half the width of base cabinets) from a midpoint line in the center board.

Towel Tower •

139

6

Clamp a straightedge over a tongue-and-groove board, placing a piece of scrap plywood underneath as a backer. Ripcut the board to the correct thickness for the filler piece.

Press the trimmed filler board to the wall, seating it in construction adhesive, at the left edge of the panel area.

Before ri pp ing the boards, tr im a ll of your carsidi ng stock so it is 1/4" to 'htl shorte r tha n th e d istance from t he seat board to the cei li ng. The n, t ri m the outer carsiding board s to width lIsing a tab le saw (make sure you arc tri mming off the correct edge, be it tongue or groove), If you have access to a tab lcsaw, use it to make the cuts. Otherwise, use a c ircular saw a nd a straig htedge cutti ng guide. \rVith thin stock like this, cutt ing a scrap wood backer board a long \\l ith the wor kpiece wi ll resu lt in a c leane r cut . iVlakc the rip cu t s (p hoto 5) and sa nd the edges if necessary to smooth out the cuts.

Use" 4-ft. level to exte nd plumb lines di rectly li p t he \.va ll fro m the outside edges of t he seatboa rd. T hen, mark t he \,va ll stu d locatio ns o n t he seatboa rd an d cei ling \,v ith tape. Begin install ing the carsid ing on th e left side, wit h t he left trim me d boa rd. In mos t cases, th e tongue will be preserved o n t hi s boa rd a nd shou ld be oriented inward (photo 6). App ly a hea\1' bead of construction ad hesive to t he back of t he board an d st ick it to the wal l. If it happe ns to fal l ove r a \,vall stu d, na il it in pl ace by dri vin g (l fin ish nai l (or, prefera bly, a p ne u matic brad) th ro ugh the to ngue at a n ang le. The nai ls shou ld be countersun k e nough t ha t they do no t obstruct t he groove of t he adjo ining board.


Continue installing boards until you reClch t he rig ht edge (photo 7) . Use plenty of adh es ive und dri ve several nails when yo u hit a \va ll stud. If none of th e wa ll studs align be neat h cars idi ngjoi nts, tac k the boa rd that fal ls over a wa ll stud by face-nailing o nce at the top an d once at th e bottom. In most cases, you shou ld be ub le to ta c k each board at the top too, nailing t hrough the face Cl nd into the stud \vall ca p plate (thi s will be concea led by crovm mo lding anyway). Note: TI-le 1Iloun.ting boards for the towel hooks will help hold the carsiding in place alice they are attached at stlld locations. Cut the towe l hook backe r boards to le ngth from I x 6 stock. For a more decorative effect, cut a c hamfer profile into th e edges (o r just the top and bottom edges) with a ro uter a nd chamfe rin g bit. In stall the backe r

·8

7

Drive a pneumatic brad through the tongue of one of the fa r-right boards, and into a marked wall stud.

9

board by driving 21hl! de ck sc re\\/s, co untersunk, CIt vvall stud locations. Fill the sc rew hol es with wood putty. In stall quarter~rou nd molding aro u nd th e bottom of th e ca binet to conceal the gap whe re it meets th e Aoor. Al so in stall quarte r-round to co ncea l th e gap whe re the ca rsidin g meets th e ca binet seat board (photo 8 ). i\/lake mitered return s at the end for a more fini s hed ap pearan ce (see pages 42 to 43 ). Atta c h c rown molding to th e top of th e projec t (photo 9), also making a mitered return to fini sh th e ends of th e molding (sec pages 42 to 43 ). Sand a ll wood su rfaces and fill na il hol es, sc rcw ho les and visible gaps with wood putty. Paint th e project wi th prime r and at leas t two coa ts of ename l paint. Finally, attach th e tov,'e l hooks to the tov,lel hoo k backers .

-

•

-~-

•

Install quarter-round or base shoe molding at the top edge of the seatboard where it meets the carsiding. Tie the molding back to the wall with mitered returns (see pages 42 to 43).

Attach crown molding at the top of the project, creating mitered returns at the ends. Mark the ceiling joists with tape.

Towel Tower •

141

I Understairs Work Center T

he irregula r space beneat h a sta ircase can be used for a variety of creative bu il t-in projects. Because

the dimensions and <1ngles of understa irs areas v<:I ry wide ly, Ilnding stock cab inet ry that illS the space is difficult. However, th e design show n he re ca n be built to fit almost any area . T he undcrstairs wo rk ce nter, in its simp lest fo rm , is a pair of bas ic ca binets that support a co untcrtop. T he basic cab ine ts are built to a sta ndard height, depending on t he ir use. You can adapt the size of the


& BU1LT-1NS

understa irs wo rk center by s hortening or le ngth e nin g the cou nte rtop and connecting she lf. A smal l ca binet and upper she lves are added to fill out th e remaining space. The dept h of t he cou nte rtop also ca n be adj usted to matc h t he width of yo ur staircase. Most understairs projects requ ire that yo u make many angled c uts, but in th e project shown here, you will need to ma ke only a few miters and bevels. Beveled cu ts ca n be made with a pmver miter saw, ci rc ular saw, or tab le saw.

r<· .....

....

f: "" .-,

.r···· . '.

;:" .:'

:, "

.:' .', '.

"

"

.

.l':..... " l·····. ......

"

r····. ..... '. ..... . ....

"'.~., "

Tools

Materials Sh im s

Tape rn easure

Cordless Drill/driver Drill bits

Level T-bevel

H amrner Router with WI straight

U tility screws ( ] ", ] 1/", ", 2Ih") ] 11 \,,'ire nails

C ircular saw

bit and W' rabbet bit Bar clamps

Trim mold ing

Power rn iter saw

Door and drawer hardv·,Iare

Pencil

or table saw

Fini sh nails ( ]II , 11/", " , 2" )

26 lineal ft. oak 1 x 3 25 lineal ft. oak 1 x 2 1) 'I, x 4 ft. x 8 ft. pl)~vood 3) % x 4 ft. x 8 ft. oak plywood

Finish rnaterials

Cutting List Part

Desc.

Size

Material

A

Top shelf

28 x 18"

3(."

plywood

J

B

lower shelf

42 x 18"

'I." plywood

K

C

Shelf deats

12 lineal ft. I x 2

D

No.

4

Part

No.

2

Desc.

Size

Material

Small cobinet side

34 Y, x 24" W plywood

Small cobinet bottom & top

19Y. x 24" W plywood 3(. " plywood

L

Small cobinet bock

20" x 34"

Cabinet sides

35';' x 24"

plywood

M

Connecting shelf

27'/. x 24" '!." plywood

N

Face frome pieces

26 lineal ft.

3(."

E

4

Cabinet bose, top panels

19'1. x 24 " 'I." plywood

F

4

Cabinet shelves

19'1. x 24"

3(."

plywood

0

Fa(e frome pieces

25 lineal ft.

I x 2 ook

G

2

Cabinet bocks

20 x 35"

'I." plywood

p

Shelf edge strips

4 lineal ft.

'I, plywood

(ounlerlop

32 x 64"

3(."

plywood

Q

Drawers

see pages 48 to 49

Small cobinet side

18 x 24"

3(."

plywood

R

Cabinet doors

purchase to fit

H

I x 3 ook

Ulltlers/airs Work Cel1le r •

143

I project Details

The side panels for the short cabinet (left), made from W' plywood, differ in size.

A line connecting the tops of the two panels should follow the slope line of the staircase. The side panels for the main cabinets (right), are also made from ¥,' plywood, and have dadoes for the cabinet shelves and base, and rabbets for the cabinet top. The taller side panel for the small cabinet fits against a main cabinet side panel when the work center is installed.

Duplicate the slope of your stairs using a T-bevel. Set one arm of the T-bevel in a level position against the back wall, then align the other arm with the stairs (top photo). Transfer the angle directly to your saw to make mitered and beveled cuts (bottom photo).

144 • TH E COM PL ETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUlLT-l NS

Shelves and cleats, made from plywood and 1 x 2 strips, are beveled so they fit flush against the understairs cover. The shelf edging strips are cut from oak 1 x 2, and mitered at the same angle as the shelves.

Cover stair underside before you install your understairs

work center. Panels of 1%" plywood attached to the stringers of the staircase create an understairs cover that can be used to anchor shelf cleats. If you plan to add electrical or plumbing lines, do the work (or hire a professional if you are inexperienced) before installing your built-in.

How to Build an Understairs Work Center

1

Mark the location for the shelf cleats on the walls and understairs cover, using a level as a guide. Butt the 12" cleats against the back wall, and allow at least 12" of clearance between the countertop and the bottom shelf.

Measure and cut 1 x 2 shelf cleats to fit along the reference lines on the walls and the understairs cover (see Project Details, page opposite). Bevel the cleats on the understairs cover to match the stair slope angle. Attach the cleats with 21// screws.

Measure and cut ¥,' plywood shelves, then attach a 'I,' hardwood strip to each shelf edge (see page opposite) using glue and finish nails. Set shelves on cleats and attach with 1'1," finish nails driven through pilot holes.

Measure and cut 'I,' plywood side panels for main cabinets, then use a router and an edge guide to cut rabbets for top panels and dadoes for bottom panels and shelves (see Project Details, page opposite).

Clamp and glue the cabinet sides to the top and bottom panels and shelves to form rabbet and dado joints. Note: If you plan to install centermounted drawer slides, mount slide tracks before you assemble the cabinet.

Reinforce each cabinet joint with 2" finish nails driven at 4" intervals.

Ullders/airs Work Cellfer •

145

Cut a ",' plywood back panel for

Position one cabinet so the top panel

each main cabinet. Set each back onto a cabinet frame so that all sides align, then attach them to cabinet side, base, and top panels using 1" wire nails.

is pressed against the understairs cover and front face is flush with edge of stairway. Shim if needed, then toenail into the floor through the side panels, using 2" finish nails. For masonry floors, attach with construction adhesive.

cut 1 x 2 cleats for the connecting shelf that fits between the main cabinets. Mark level lines on the inner cabinet sides, then attach shelf cleats to the cabinet sides by driving 1'1. " screws through counterbored pilot holes.


& BU1LT-1NS

Position the other cabinet 'I,' away from side wall, with front face aligned with first cabinet. Check with a level and shim if needed. Insert 'I. " spacers between cabinet and side wall, then anchor to wall with 2" screws driven into framing members.

Measure and cut a ¥." plywood connecting shelf to fit

between the cabinets, and attach it to the cleats with 1v." finish nails. (If you plan to build a drawer using a centermounted drawer slide, attach the slide track to the shelf before you attach the shelf to the cleats.)

1

13

Measure and cut a plywood countertop panel that extends all the way to the back wall, with one side flush against the understairs cover. Attach the countertop to top panels of cabinets by driving finish nails down through the countertop.

Apply or install any special countertop finishing material, like ceramic tile or plastic laminate. Obtain installation instructions and follow them carefully if you have not installed tile or laminate before.

Back panel

Top panel Side panel

Build a small cabinet the same width and depth as the main cabinets (steps 4 to 7). Adjust the height of the side panels to follow the stair slope (see Project Details, page 144). Cut a v," plywood back panel, with the top edge sloped at the same angle as the line between the side panel tops. Attach the back panel to the cabinet with 1" wire nails.

Position the small cabinet so the taller side panel is flush against the main cabinet. Align the face of the small cabinet with the face of the main cabinet, then check with a level, shimming if necessary Connect the cabinets by drilling pilot holes, and driving 1,/," screws through the side panels.


147

16

If the corner is open at the bottom of the stairs, attach nailing strips to the understairs cover and cabinet sides, then cut a plywood panel to fit the space, and attach it to the nailing strips with 1" screws.

Measure and cut 1 x 3 bottom rails for the cabinets. Also cut a long, diagonal rail to fit along the edge of the understairs cover. Miter the ends of the diagonal rail to fit against the floor and the side wall, and miter the longer bottom rail to form a clean Joint with the diagonal raii. Test-fit the rails, then attach them with glue and 2" finish nails driven through pilot holes.

18

Measure and cut 1 x 3 rails to cover the edges of the connecting shelf and the countertop. Miter the end of the countertop rail that Joins the long, diagonal raii. Attach the shelf and countertop rails flush with the countertop and shelf surfaces, using glue and 2" finish nails driven through pilot holes.

148 • T H E COM PL ETE GU IDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & RUI LT·I NS

Measure and cut 1 x 2 stiles for the front edges of the cabinets. Attach the stiles, flush with the edges of the cabinet sides, using glue and 2" finish nails driven through pilot holes.

Measure and cut 1 x 2 rails to fit between the stiles, so they cover the cabinet shelf edges and are flush with the shelf tops. Attach the rails, using glue and 2" finish nails driven through pilot holes.

21

Attach slide tracks for side-mounted drawer slides, according to the manufacturer's directions.

cut base-shoe molding to cover gaps along wall and floor surfaces, miteri ng the corners. Tack the molding, using 2" finish nails. sand, fill, and finish the understairs center.

22

Build, finish, and install drawers (see pages 48 to 49) and drawer hardware. Purchase or build and finish cabinet doors and hang them using semi-concealed hinges.

3,,'


149

I Hobby Center I

f yo u or someo ne in yo ur family e njoys a hobby or activity, w het he r it's co mputin g, sc rapboo ldng, drawing or anyt hing else that in vo lves pleasa nt time seated and engaged in yo ur avocat ion , YO LI deserve to have a specicd place set aside for that ac tivity. And here, it is important to note, "set aside" does not mea n "spread out on t he kitchen ta ble be tween family meals." A dedi ca ted spot wi th loads of sto rage, a pleasing appeara nce a nd an efficien t foo tprint can all be obtained with this co rn e r hobby center provides th e thin gs you need to spend tim e o n you r act ivity, not managing it.


I n thi s co rn er ho bby center, upper and ]mve r ca binets are combined to deli ve r exce llent and attractive sto rage o ptions. At th e sa me time, some on -s ite ca rpe ntry c rea tes a sta ble frame for a spacious but not ove rpov,rering L ~s h aped des k. The laminate des kto p configu ration provides not just room to spread out a project or stage suppli es left an d ri ght, but a lso provides three access points (ce nter, left, an d ri ght ) for you to e ither move around a large project or for othe rs to pull up a c hair an d he lp or just watch,

c

A

Tools

Materials

Cutting List

Pe ncil Tape measure Level or laser level Drill/driver Miter savv

(2) Base cabine ts (2) Upper cab inets

Part

( I ) Co rn er cabi net (2) 8 ft. 2 x 3 ( I ) Co untertop Drl"'all or deck screws Finish na ils Finis hing materia ls

Material

Desc.

Size

A

Bose cabinets

24 x WI,"

B

Upper cobinets

18 x 30"

C

Corner cabinet

24 x 30"

D

Wall deot

l V1x 21/1 x 40 " 2 x 3

E

Oiogonol deal

l V1 x2 Vl x59" 2 x 3

F

l·shope (ounterlop IV1X 25 x 72"

No.

Custom make

f-/ ohhyCellfer •

151

I How to Build a Hobby Center LAY OUT UPPER CABINETS Start wit h the upper ca binets first, then in stall

(photo 2 ). Set it be low the level line to s upport th e cab inets during installatio n.

the base units. Once th e bases are set, frame the desktop su pports and insta ll the countertop. T he d es ktop is laminate an d while you can make it you rse lf, \vo rkin g \v ith laminates is a specia lty trad e a nd it is ofte n mu c h easie r to o rde r the unit and have it delivered pre~asse mbl ed. Locate and strike the leve l line for th e uppers 52 112" a bove th e flo o r. Project each line 42" out from th e v·/al l co rner (photo I ). Locate a nd mark the wal l studs below th e level li ne. Fasten a temporary ledge r to the wa ll st uds

Project the level line for the upper cabinets 42" out from each corner.

Measuring along the top of the base molding from the corner, muke ma rks at 42" Cl nd 60" on the base trim. T hi s is t he locat ion of eClch base cabinet. Use a

combinat ion sq uare and mark square lines dovm to the floor. The 18" of base/s hoe molding between the lines \·vill be removed to accep t the base cabinets. In the corne r, measure up 34 'h" (th e height of the base ca binet) from th e Aoor a nd ma rk eac h side of t he wa ll (photo 3).

Fasten a ledger board for the upper cabinets just below the level line.

Extend your tape in the corner and mark each wall at 34%".

3

152 • THE COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES

LAY OUT THE BASES & DESKTOP

& BU1LT-1NS

Plan Ahead

~

If you can pre-gang and install the upper cabinets in one shot, this will provide a quicker, more accurate installation, but you'll need helpers to do this. It helps to transfer the location of the wall studs to the insides of the cabinets for future reference so you're not searching for the studs while you're holding cabinets aloft (photo 41.

4

.. ..... . \

Fasten the upper cabinet to the wall studs to hold it in

Transfer the stud locations to the inside surfaces of the

place, but do not drive the screws all the way (this allows for a little fine tuningl.

cabinets before you lift them.

Note: If you have a carpet floor treat1llen t, it may be w ise to place a base cahi'net in, position and use a 2Jt. level to transfer its height to the wall. Remember, carpet ([-nd pad will COtllpreS5 some ance the cabinet has been

base molding. rn lis is dIe inside edge of the base cabinet and the outside edge of the desktop ledger board. Locate the 1Vallstuds and mark them along the top edge of the level line .

loadecllvith ite'lJ1.s so apply a little pressure lvhen doing this. O nce height is esta blished, strike a level line 61 '/," out on each wall. TI1e reason to strike the line out to 61 !h- inches is

INSTALL THE UPPERS

because the deshtop extends J '12 beyond the outside

board and then dri ve screws into the wa ll at stud

edge of the base unit. Along the level line on eac1'.1Vall, mahe a 1uark at 42" and strike a plumb-Une down to the

locati ons (photo 5). Repeat for each e nd cabi net.

II

If

YO LI

<:I re installing one cabinet at a ti me, start with

the center ca bin et in th e corn er. Set it on th e ledger

Hohh)' Cellfer •

153

Before fully sinking wall screws, be sure the fronts of all wall cabinets are flush. Make adjustments as necessary to get them flush, clamp, pre-drill, then fasten.

Position the base cabinets at the layout lines and fasten them to wall studs with screws.

8

Install ledgers below level line on wall studs. Note that the second piece overlaps the first piece and must be cut 1'h" shorter to fit

cut the diagonal ledger brace with opposing miters. Longpoint to long-paint, it's 59".

Before fully sinking t he wa ll screws, clamp the

ATTACH DESKTOP LEDGER

cabinets toget her, dri ll pilot ho les in the cabinet sides or face ffumes, <:I nd $creV,1 the m toge ther (pho to 6). Complete the process by dr iving all wa ll screws tight ly aga inst th e cabinet bac k. Add cabi net doors.

Because the desktop is onl y suppo rted by cab inets on the olltside edges, YOLI m llst build a 3-p iece ledger system tha t supports the desktop both a long the wall and unde r the fron t edge of the desktop. 2 x 3s

INSTALL THE BASE UNITS Remove the base mo ld ing a lread y marked usi ng a pull -smv. Position the base un its
cab inets to th e wa ll studs (photo 7). See pages 54 to 59 fo r more info rmat ion on insta lling ca binets.

154 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVE S & BU1LT-1NS

\vork wel l for this. Cut a nd insta ll ledger pieces a lo ng 11 the \vall, fastening with two 3 screws into the wall

studs (pho to 8). Me"sure " nd c ut the fi rst piece to fit be t\.v een the wu ll a nd t he inside edge of a base

cab inet . A piece just shy of 42" sho uld fit. C ut and insta ll t he second piece. A piece ju st s hy of 4 0 112 11

shou ld fit.

Cu t a 2 x 3 to 59" (Iong- to -Iong) with opposing miters (photo 9). Pre-dril l and pre-set screws in th e mitered end s of the diagona l brace th e n insta ll (photo j 0 ).

INSTAll THE DESKTOP H ave a cus tom des ktop made to lit from particlebord and laminate, or any other suita bl e materials. Or, make yo ur ow n (see pages 62 to 77). Get a he lper a nd pb ce the desktop on top of t he base ca b ine t/ le dge r system (photo I I). F ine tun e th e desktop placeme n t o nto th e layo ut marks and faste n from be neath . Fasten from inside th e base ca binets as wel l as throu gh th e ledger system's di agonal brace . Fasten ing throu gh th e di agona l brace req uires pre-drilling and

insta lling scre\vs on a n angle (photo J 2). Be cu refui not to puncture th e top s urface of t he lam inate.

APPLY YOUR FINISH T he fini sh details are relatively minima l on this project, since it is made out of prefin ished ca binets and a pre-built desktop. Yo u ca n cau lk bet\vee n the cab inet edges and t he wa ll as necessary, or \vrap t he base cab inet bottoms \·vi th base molding as necessa ry (you can skip thi s if the Aoor is carpe t) an d prime an d pa int th e ledge r sys tem boa rds the sa me as th e wa ll color. One grea t addit ion is to instal l an undercab ine t light be neat h the upper cabinets to provide focused task li ghting (photo \3 ).

10

pre-drill (to prevent splitting) and pre-set screws in the mitered ends of the diagonal brace and install.

With a helper, position the desktop on the cabinets and ledger system.

13

pre-drill then drive screws at an angle through the diagonal brace into the desktop.

install task lighting and add convenient receptacles according to your skill and comfort level with wiring.

Hohl')' Cellfer •

155

I Bath Cabinet C

abinetry and casework are fu ndame ntal to making bu il t- ins a nd boo kcases. T h is s ma ll wall-h un g ca b ine t is a useful item for bathroom or ki tchen, and it is a great project for a beginning ca rpe nte r to develop some bas ic cabi netry skill s. It is also extremely inex pensive to make. The enti re case, in clud ing th e top, can be bui lt from an 8-ft.lo ng p iccc of I X 10 wood (you' ll nccd a li ttle extra material for the she lving a nd the towe l rod ). T he mitered frames appl ied to t he fronts of t he door g ive

156 • TH E COMPLETE GUIDE TO CU STOM SH ELVE S & BU1LT-1NS

the loo k and fee l of a ra ised pane l door, wi t hou t a ny of the fuss. \tVe bu ilt th e versio n of the cabi net YOLI see here out of No.2 and better p ine and t hen gave it a n ora ngey map le finis h. You ca n c hoose any lumber you like fo r thi s, eve n sheet stock slich as j\lIDF, a nd app ly a clea r or a painted fi ni sh . For a trad itional look, c hoose a w hi te enamel pa int. Be su re and apply several thin coats of polyuret hane varn ish , especia ll y if the cab inet wi ll be insta lled in a \vet area like a bathroo m .

Tools Pencil Tape measure Comb inati on square Router, proflling bit

C ircular sa\\,

Jig saw

C lamps Hammers

Drill/driver 3// Spade bit

Materials ( 1)8ft.lxIO ( 1) 4ft. I x8 ( I) '1." Dowel ( I) Scree n retainer molding ( 10 lineal ft. ) (2 ) Door knobs (2) Touch latches (2) Hi nges Drywall or deck sc rews Finish nails Finish ing material s


Desc.

Material

lf4

X 91/4 X

Sides

3f4

x 7 x 2m;. I x 100ri x 8pine

Top

A

Size

19 \11 I x 10 pine

B

2

C

2

Doors

0/.x 9x15

IxlOpine

D

2

Shelves

I X 8 pine

1/ ,

E

Towel rod

x 7 X 16 1/1 0/. x 18"

F

Wall cleot

lf4 xl j, x16

G

Door molding Ishortl

1h x o/l x(utlont Retainer molding

H

Door molding (long)

3/4

1

t Square

=

1"

Dowel 1h,

I x 2 pine

lh x ¥. xcuttofit Retainer molding

T

3/4"

towel rod

0

51/4"

1 Bath Cab illet •

157

How to Build a Bath Cabinet PREPARE THE STOCK This bathroom cabinet can be made a lmost entirely from a single 8-ft. J x J 0 using basic too ls. (Jf yo u buy a J O-footer you 'll have e noug h stoc k to make all but t he middl e she lf, whi c h ca n easil y be mad e from ,m othe r piece of wood o r even glass. ) At you r local lum berya rd or building ce nter, hand-select a board (pine or another wood: No.2 or better pine is mu c h cheaper than other types in most areas ). Look for a board that's stra ight and free from defects li ke large knots or waney (bark-like ) edges. When you get th e board home, trim around 1/4 11 off eac h end (neve r trust the factory ends- they' re seldom squa re ly cut).

Cut the top board to 19 1/2". Then , c ut a n ogee profile into th e fron t edge a nd the side edges llsin g a pi loted ogee bit (photo I). Be su re to attach blocking a t th e back edges to preve nt the router bit from turning the corner and cutting into th e back edge. If you don't own a router, you can simply hand-sand a roundover in the bottom edges or you can try cutti ng a chamfer profile with a hand plane (a tricky job, but a good ski ll to develop ). Next, cu t the stock for both doors to length, plus a litt le bit (cut a piece a round 30'h" long) a nd either ripcut the edges to get a clea n surface o n both si des or sand them or plane them smooth (photo 2). The nna l v,lidth of the materia l should be 9", Once th e stoc k is prepared, cut the doors to length,

Shape a decorative profile into the top using a router and pil oted agee bit. Do not remove more than %" of material along the bottom edges.

use a tablesaw, circu lar saw, plane or sander to get straight, criSp edges on the cabinet door stock.


Cut the stock fo r the cabinet sides to \vidth (7 '/''') or select a piece of I X 8 stock and si mpl y sand th e edges . Then enlarge th e patt ern on page 157 using a photocopier to make a hardboard template of th e curved sha pe . Trace the profile on one side , refe renc ing up from t he bottom of the board (photo 3). Cbrnp the tvvo s ides together so th e ends a nd edges all are flu sh . The n, cu t out the profile in both pieces at once using a jig SJ\>V (photo 4 ). Make you r cuts j ust short of the cu tting line. When th e cut is fin ished, do not unc larnp th e ga nged sides. Use a sa nder or a round file to srnoot h the cuts and rernove waste wood exac tl y up to t he cutting lines. An osc illating spindle sander is t he best too l here. Another good idea is to rnOll nt a drurn sa nder in a drill

press. Las tl y, before you un elamp th e sides, locate the cen terpoint for drilling th e ·W'-di a. dowel ho le for the towel rod . Drill t he ho le wit h a 3/)' spade bi t, rn ak ing su re to s lip a backe r board underneat h the bottorn boa rd to preve nt tea rout \vhen the bit exits the workpiece (photo 5).

ASSEMBLE THE CABINET Assembl ing your bathroorn ca binet is a sirnple process of glu ing, clarnping and nai ling. It is \,vo rth investing in a co upl e of 24" bar clarnps or pipe clarnps if you don 't O\vn t hem already, a lt hough another option is to use screws instead of nail s to faste n t he parts, relying on the scre\vs to provide clarnp-l ike press ure to the glue joints. O nl y do thi s if yo u are painting the cab inet.

Photocopy the pattern on page 157 and use it to make a hardboard template a guide to trace the profile onto the bottom of one cabinet side.

Cut both side profiles at the same time, staying just outside the cutting line so you can sand precisely up to the cutting line.

Still with the sides ganged together, drill a %"·dia. hole for the towel rod, using a backer board under the bottom side.

Balh Cahillel •

159

Press the two shelves and the cleat between the cabinet sides after applying glue to the ends.

Reinforce the glued joints with 6d fillish nails driven into pilot holes.

Glue the ends of the towel rod into the holes in the cabinet sides and then pin it in place with a finish nail driven through the back edge of each side.

Miter the corners of screen retainer molding and nail and glue decorative frames to the door fronts.

Lay th e side boards o n a Aat surface, lying parallel and o n t heir back edges. C ut the j x 2 c leat a nd the 7"-wide shelves to length ( j 6 'h"). Note: The sl/elves

cab inet sides . Once it is in position , pus h it in vvard Ihi! or so o n one side a nd app ly g lue to the inside surfaces of the dowe l ho le. The n , press the rod from the other side to revea l about 1// of the hole a nd app ly gl ue. Push the rod so the e nd s are Au sh \,v ith the ca binet sides a nd the dri ve one 3d finish na il throug h th e back e dge of eac h ca binet s ide a nd into th e dowel to pin it in place (photo 8 ).

are 1// narrower than the sides to provide clearance for the doors. Position the cleat and the shelves between the cabinet sides, making SHre ever),thing fits squarely. Then, apply wood glHe to the ends of all three parts and clamp tl1Cm between the cabinet sides (photo 6). Then , clamp the sides w ith bar c lamps an d c heck wit h a framing squa re to ma ke sure the sides arc square to th e she lves. A lso make sure the middle shelf is perpen d icu lar to the s ides. Before the gl ue sets (abo llt 15 minutes) drive three 6d nni s h nails thro ugh th e cabi ne t sid es and into eac h s he lf end . Drive a pair of nails into th e wa ll c leat (photo 7). It is always a good idea to drill pilot ho les for na iling. In sert the towel rod into the holes in the


& BU1LT-1NS

HANG THE DOORS C ut strips of half-round screen reta ine r mo ld ing to m ake decorative fra mes fo r t he fro nts of the cabinet doors. Mi ter the co rn e rs (photo 9 ). The fra mes sho uld be inset \11 or so from th e door edges on a ll sides . Attac h the frames to th e door fronts w ith glue and a few Ih!l wire b rad s.

Note: NOllJ is a good time to finish or paint your bathroom cabinet. Be sure to sand all the surfaces well and Jllake sure yon remove any dried glue- th e stain and finish won't stick to it. We used a gel~type Swedish maple stain on our pine cabinet because it imparts a rich. color (it resembles orange shellac ) and disguises the fact that pine has very little wood grain . We added th ree thin coats of wipe-on varnish after the stain dried (photo 10). Hang the cabinet doors with 11// brushed c hrome or nic ke l butt hi nges (photo I I). In most cases, yo u'll need to c ut shallow mortises in the cu binet sides and doo r for th e h inges. Ce nter the ca binet top so the overhang is equal on th e side and the back is flush with the cabinet back . Attach the top by d ri ving a fe w fini sh na ils through it and into th e top e dges of the cabine t sides, as \vcl l as in to th e top edges of th e wa ll clea t (photo 12 ). You're better off not usi ng glue to attac h the top. Install a touch latc h at the top of each door opening.

Apply your finish or paint the cabinet before you hang the doors and install the cabinet top.

HANG THE CABINET Loc ate wall stud s in th e insta lla tion a rea . Whe re poss ible, position th e ca binet so it hits two stud s. Attac h the c abinet wit h v·,rood sc rev,Is driven through the wa ll cleat an d int o the studs (photo J 3). If yo u on ly have one stud avu ilable, dr ill u 1/4" ho le t hro ugh t he c lea t , as fa r fro m stud locatio n as yo u cun ge t a nd still have access . Positi on th e ca binet agains t t he wa ll a nd ma rk t he hole ont o th e wa ll by inserting a finish nail into th e hol e. Re move th e ca binet and install a plastic screw insert at the hole loca ti o n. He place the c abinet a nd dri ve a screw so it catc hes the insert. Then re~leve l the cab inet and screw the wall clea t to th e wa ll at the s tud location. Drill p il ot ho les in the doors a nd install doo r knobs with screws.

Hang the doors. Use care to position the doors so the outside edges are flush with the outer faces of the cabinets sides. The tops should be about %" below the top edges of the cabinet sides.

13

Attach the finished cabinet top to the cabinet sides with 4d finish nails.

Hang the cabinet. If you don't have access to two wall studs, use a plastic screw insert or other hanging hardware in addition to fastening the wall cleat to a wall stud.

Balh C(lhil1el •

161

I Kneewall Cabinet kneewa ll is a sho rt wa ll that meets t he s lope o f th e roo Rin e in an up sta irs room. By cutting a ho le in a kn eev.rall a nd instcdlin g a recesse d ca binet, YO LI ca n turn t he wasted space beh in d it in to a useful storage area. Because th e body (carcase ) of a kneewall cab inet is not visi ble, it ca n be built using ordinary pl y\'wod and simple butt joints . T he face frame a nd drawe r faces, however, shou ld be buil t \vith hardwood, and Anis hed carefull y.

A

162 • TH E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES

& BU1LT-1NS

The projec t shown here fits in a space that is 30" wide- the standard width of two adjacent stud cavities w it h a cente r st ud removed. Befo re begi n ni ng \,vork, c heck th e spac ing of studs and the locat ion of e lec tri ca l or plumbing li nes be hind yo ur kn eewa ll. Your kn eewa ll may have a remova ble access pa ne l, w hi c h makes it easy to c he ck behind th e wal l. You can make th e cabinet wider or na rrowe r to fit your wa ll st ud spacing, but regardl ess of size, be sure to leave a few inches of space between the back of th e ca binet a nd t he rafters.

Cripple stud Stud Header (A)

,

Stud

Rough opening

Outline of : face frame :

--

~

Cripple stu

Sill (A)

FRAMING FRONT VIEW

Header (A)

,

V

Outline of cabinet_;'----:~--

.

outlme of face frame

Sill

F;:::=;:t:;;lj--

(A)

Pedestals FRAMING SIDE VIEW; CUTAWAY

Cutting List

Tools

Materials

Level

Flat pry bar

D ryv/a l\ or deck sc revvs ( 1", 2", 3") F inish nails ( 1Ihll, 2" , 3")

Reciprocating saw

Wood glue

B

Dril l

F inishing materi als

C

Tape measure

Drmver hardwa re

D E

C ircular saw or jig saw

Bar or pip e clamps Hammer

Na il set

Part

No. Desc.

Size

Material

2 x 4s

Pedestals

6 lin'" h. 14" xiS"

2

Sides

19" x 28'/,"

'I." plywood

2

Top and bottom 19" x 30"

2

Shelves

19" x 28Y,"

W plywood

F

Bock ponel

30" x 30"

'!." plywood

G

Face frame

II lin'" ft.

Ix400k

H

Shelf roils

5 lin", h.

Ix200k

Drawers

see poges 4B to 49

A

H"der and sill 2

2 x 4s W plywood

Klleewall Cabillet •

163

KNEEWALL CABINET PROJECT DETAILS

pedestals installed behind the kneewall create a sturdy base for the cabinet Built from 2 x 4s, the pedestals raise the cabinet so it fits above the sill. Raising the cabinet also makes drawers more accessible.

Face frame is 1 x 4 hardwood, which will cover the rough edges of the wall opening The shelf rails are made from 1 x 2 hardwood to maximize the size of the drawer openings.

I How to Build a Kneewall Cabinet

Locate wall studs in area where cabinet will be installed. Mark the cutout on the wall, using a level as a guide. Bottom of cutout should be at least 3" above baseboard, and sides of cutout should follow edges of wall studs. Height of cutout should be 3'/." taller than overall height of cabinet, to allow space for a header and sill. Caution: Check for wiring, pipes, and ductwork before cutting into any wall.


& BU1LT-1NS

Cut away the center stud at the top and bottom of the opening, using a reciprocating saw Remove the stud . Remaining portions of cut studs are called "cripple" studs.

Measure and cut a 2 x 4 header and sill to fit snugly between side studs. Position in opening, check for level, and shim if necessary. Attach the header and sill to the cripple studs and side studs, using 3" screws.

Measure the distance from the floor behind the opening to the top of the sill, and build two 2 x 4 pedestals to this height {see Project Details, previous pagel. Join pedestal pieces together with glue and 3" screws.

set the pedestals on the floor inside the wall opening, even with the sides of the framed opening. Check to make sure pedestals are level, and shim between the pedestals and the floor if necessary. Attach pedestals to the floor, using 3" screws.

Measure width and height of the rough opening between framing members. Cut side panels 2" shorter than the height of rough opening. Cut top and bottom panels '/," shorter than the width of rough opening. Cut shelves 1'j," shorter than the width of the opening

Klleell'nll Cnhillel •

165

Attach drawer slide tracks to the

Clamp and glue the shelves to the

center of the bottom panel and the shelves, following manufacturer's directions.

side panels to form butt Joints. Reinforce the joints with 2" screws driven through the side panels and into the edges of shelves.

Measure and cut 'f," plywood panel to cover the back of the cabinet. Attach with 1" screws or wire nails driven through the back and into the side, top, and bottom panels.


& BU1LT-1NS

Clamp and glue the top and bottom panels to the side panels, then reinforce the joints with 2" screws.

Measure the width and height between the inside edges of the cabinet. Cut the rails to the width. Cut the stiles to the height plus 7". Clamp and glue rails between stiles, and reinforce joints by toenailing 3" fin ish nails through the rails and into the stiles.

Apply glue to the edges of the cabinet. then position the face frame over the cabinet so the inside edges of the face frame are flush with the top, bottom, and side panels. Attach the face frame by drilling pilot holes and driving 1'/," finish nails into the cabinet every 8". use a nail set to countersink the nail heads.

Slide the cabinet into the opening so it rests on the pedestals and the face frame is against the wall surface.

Anchor the cabinet by drilling pilot holes and driving 3" finish nails through the face frame and into the wall framing members. Also, drive 3" finish nails through the bottom of the cabinet and into the sill.

Sand and finish the cabinet face frame, then build, finish, and install overlay drawers (pages 48 to 49).

Klleell'nll Cnhillel •

167

I Club Bar O

wning your own in-house bar makes a statement

about you. For some, it might say "[ have arrived


& BU1LT-1NS

Wh ile thi s is a "dry bar" (no plum bing), the design could be mod ified in any number of \vays to add runn ing V,lelter if you v,fish . AJI yo u need to get the party started is a GFC ! electrical outlet a nd t he proper Aoor space. T h is compact corner bar des ign Featu res glossy black MDF aprons with decorative c herry app liques fo rm ing a horizo ntal grid pattern on the aprons. A che rry p lywood ba rtop sits atop a 2 X 6 L-shapcd knccwall , harboring so me practica l amen ities o n t he bartender side. A Ai p-up lift gate in t he bartop on one end prO\odes reiss-through access a nd ca n even function as a v,lait station if you \"/ant to get really fancy in yo ur hosting T he key co m po nents- base ca binets, a laminate coun te rtop, the fridge , an d the wood For a sleek Asia nins pi red style trim-ou t -se t the stage fo r you r next gathering. Let's pa rty.

C11l1~ Bar •

169

170 • T H E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUILT-INS

Tools Miter saw

Tab le saw Circular

S3\V

Drill/driver Level

Stud finder Pull

S3\'V

Flat bar Pn eu matic nai ler/compressor Comb ina tion square

Materials

24" base cabine t

(l0) 2 x 6" x 8 ft. SPF (I ) % x 4 x 8 cherry plywood for bartop (I ) 3j, x 4 x 8 particleboard (2 ) 6 ft. st ri ps 'h x 16" cemen t board 20 sq . ft. 4 x 4 \·va ll tile

Hefrigerator ( 19w 22d 32- 3/'" h) Postform cou ntertop

(mi tered, 6 ft. eac h leg) 16d co m mon nails Pan el adhesive [ Ih" wa llboard screH's

Thinset and grout

Finish nai ls (4d, 6d )

'1;" thi ck cherry- 2 @8 x 42" (actual ) 3/, x 1'I," c he rry approx 80 lineal ft. (2) 'I," x 4 x 8 ft. MDP

Glue

36" base cabinet~ co rn er ( 12" \,vide doors )

Piano hi nge

Finishing materials


Desc.

Size

Material

2x 6

A

4

Sill/heoder

11/1x 5111 x 68"

B

II

Stud

lVl x 5Vl x 38"

2x 6

c

2

Bartop

0/. x 16 Vl X 80"

Cherry plywood

x 16 Vl x 80"

Particleboard

Bm substrate

3,1.

I

Bar substrate

0/. x 16Vl x 65 V4'

Particleboard

2

lift gote

0/. x 16 Vl X 22 1//'

Cherry plywood

Bortop trim

0/. x 1W' x cut to fit Cherry

2

End cop

0/. x 7V. x 41"

Cherry

7

Trim stiles

l/. x lVl x41"

Cherry

16

Trim rails

3f4 x

K

(ountertop cleol

1111 x 1111 x 22"

2x 2

L

lift gote stop black

%x lVl x 18"

Cherry

M

Apran

Vl x 40Vl x 68%"

MDF

N

Apran

Vl x 40Vl x 68%"

MDF

D E F G

H

J

lVl x cut to fit

Cherry

Cluh Bar •

171

How to Build a Club Bar Anchor the sill plates for the kneewalls to the floor so they form a right angle at the corner where they meet.

use panel adhesive and deck screws to attach the end kneewall stud to the back wall, attaching at a stud location wherever possible.

BUILD THE KNEEWALLS The ba r top is s upported by a pa ir of heavy-duty 2 x 6 kncc\valls th at arc anchored to t he wal l and fl oo r unci m ee t in an

L.

This co nfi guration pres um es rhGlt yo u'll

be in sta lling the bar in th e corn e r of th e room . If th at con fi guration does n't work for your space,

YO LI

ca n use

si m ilar build ing strategies, but redeSign the project as a stra ight -l in e o r a U-s ha pe bar.

Cut the 2 x 6 sill plates to length (68"). Measu re out from the corner the distance of the sill plates plus Lhe pass-through opening width plus 3// for the thi ckness of the end panel (923j," here). Mark a refere nce line and lay a sill plate at this di stance, perpendi cu lar to the bac k project wa ll. Arra nge th e second sill plate so th e end

172 • T HE COM PL ETE CU I DE TO CUSTOM SHELVES & BU l t:l' INS

overlaps the open end of th e Rrst si ll plate and the two form a perfect 90 degree angle. Join t he corne rs w ith screws or a metal connector to keep them from moving

during installation, and the n anchor the si ll plates to the fl oor. Use 16d common nails or screws (shown in photo I) and panel adhes ive for a wood floor; use a powderactuated nailer on a concrete floor (photo I). Once the sills are in place, attac h the e nd stud aga inst the back wa ll. If yo u are lucky (or planned we ll) th e stud will fa ll over a wa ll stud. If th e new kneewa ll must fall ove r a stud bay in th e room wal l, you'll need

to remove some wa llcovcring and install a nailing cleat

between the closest wall sluds so

YO LI

have a very sturdy

surface to anchor the e nd of the wa ll (photo 2).

Toe-nail the corner studs to the sill plates as shown in the diagram on page 170. Use a level to make sure the studs are vertical.

3

complete the framing for the L-shaped kneewa ll section. For extra strength, drive a few 3" deck screws through the studs where they meet at the corner.

Next , make th e stud wa ll corne r, follo wing th e diagram on page 170. Use 16d co mm o n nail s to toena il the studs to the si ll pla tes (photo 3). Install a stud at th e free end of the return , then fill in wi th eve nl y spaced inte rm ed iate studs spaced no morc than 16 1t apart. C ut cap p lates th e sa me size as the si ll plates and insta ll them with pane l adhesive and three 16d common Il<:liis dri ve n t hrough th e top s of the ca ps and into th e end of eac h wall stud (photo 4). C heck eac h stud with a level before na ili ng.

MAKE THE APRONS AND TRIM The decorative front apro ns for thi s ba r a re made from 'h"-thi c k IV1 DF (medium-density fibe rboard) panels that have a glossy blac k finish a nd arc trimmed \vit h strips of c herry arranged ina staggered ladde r pattern.

If you' re feel ing ambitious, app ly a genuine

black lacquer Ilni sh. Or, yo u ca n co rn e close to th e black lacquer look wit h a q ua lity sa tin or gloss jet black enamel pai nt. Either way, for the smoo th es t possible fi ni sh, c ut a nd prepare th e pane ls a nd spray on the blac k lacquer fini s h wi th an H VLP spraye r.

C 11l1~ Bar •

173

Rip tvvo sheets of Ill" iVI DF to 42" \,vide a nd then trim th em to length to make the bar fro nt pa nels. Sand t he

edges to re move any saw marks. Then, appl y primer to a ll faces and edges. When the primer dri es, spray b lac k lacquer or pai nt onto th e fro nt face and edges (photo 5). I f you do not have access to a good sprayer,

use a pain t ro lle r with a sho rt-nap sleeve.

Sa nd the edges of th e cherry trim to re move saw marks and smooth the surfaces. Apply a clear protective wood fi nish, suc h as wipe-o n polyurethane varni sh, to half th e stoc k for LI se as apron trim (p hoto 7). T he

other halF of the stock \,vill be lIsed Fo r edging the coun tertop . You 'll need to cut an edge profi le in this stoc k and attach it to the cou ntertop befo re fi ni shing it.

After installa t ion , th e bla c k apro ns w il l be

decorated with a grid made fro m strips of che ny. You can use dim e nsio nal 1 X 2 che rry fo r thi s, but yo u' ll save a lot of money a nd ge t better edges if you purchase rando m widt h cherry, th en plane an d jo int it to thi ckn ess and rip it to widt h (p hoto 6) . For th e projec t sh own here, yo u'l l need at leas t 40 l inea l fee t of stock fo r t he apron t rim , pillS another 40 ft. for the

bar co un te rtop edging.

INSTALL THE KNEEWALL COVERINGS T he front faces of th e L -shaped kneewall are cove red

with th e aprons and apron trim. T he bac k sides (the bartende r view) can be cove red with ju st about anythi ng you wis h. \;Ve used a ceme nt board bac ker and some wa ll tile for a nice looking wa lt coverin g that's du rable and easy to clea n. It's easier to insta ll th ese wa llcoveri ngs before the bartop has been in stalled.

For the smoothest possible finish, spray the front apron panels with an HVLP sprayer Apply the paint or lacquer over primer, in thi n coats.

prepare at least 80 lineal feet of '/. x 1'(," hardwood stock to trim out the aprons and edges of the bartop.

For efficiency, apply a protective finish to the cherry apron trim stock. Dab some finish on the cut ends after you cut each trim piece to length.

Apply panel adhesive to the kneewall studs to strengthen the bond with the black aprons. Slip a 'I.-thick spacer beneath each apron to create a gap between the panel and the floor.

174 • TH E COM PL ETE GUIDE TO CUSTO M SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS

Nail the apron panels to the wall studs at 8" to 12" intervals.

11

<:It

You don't need to create fu ll toe-kick recesses the bottoms of the Clpro n panels, alt hough you

ce rtainly ca ll if YO LI w ish. But it is a good idea to in sta ll the MDF apro ns so they arc not in co ntact \.vith t he fl oo r, espec ia lly if yo ur installat ion is going into a base ment or any ot he r area that Inay be subject to moistu re problems . The eas iest \·vay to do th is is simply to cut a p iece of II/I-thick sheet stoc k sc rap an d sli p it up aga inst the sill plate. T he n, test the fit of t he apron panels. Trim if needed , t hen app ly beads of pa ne l ad hesive to t he front edges of t he \.va ll frame members (p hoto 8 ) a nd attac h t he ap ro ns w it h a pneuma t ic na il er a nd 2 'h" finis h nails (pho to 9). You can hand- nai l them at wal l stud locatio ns wit h 6d finish nai ls if you p refer. Cover nail heads w it h wood putty.

Attach cement board strips to the edges of the kneewall framing members as a backer for the backsplash area.

Install the inside wallcovering before you cap the wa ll.

Depending o n \vha t type of cab ine ts you're insta ll ing, it like ly is not necess<:Iry to fin ish the inside faces of the kneewa lls lovve r than the COlln tertop he ight. For install in g \,vall ti le, we cut 1 61'~wide strips of 'h "~ t hic k ceme nt board and attac hed t he m to t he wa ll st uds flus h wi t h the top of the cap p late (p ho to I 0 ). Make sure that scams fa ll ove r studs. Insta ll the wall ti le (p hoto I I ). We used inexpe nsive 4 x 4 " ceramic \va ll ti le set into a layer of th inset adh esive t hat's trowe led onto the cemen t board . Whic hever \va ll covering yo u use, it sho u ld extend down past th e top of t he cou nte rtop (in th is case , t he top of t he p refo rm ed backs p lash ), and the e dges shou ld be cove red by the e nd panel you' ll be insta ll ing at t he free end of the kneewal l.

C 11l1~ Bar •

175

12

INSTALL THE BARTOP T he bartop insta ll ed here is made of a particleboard subbase that's thoroughly bo nd ed and screwed to the top p lates of the !meewal!. A cherry p lywood top layer

then is attached to the narrow particleboard subbase. The s ubbase is laid out wi th a butt joint at the corn er for ease and for strengt h, but for a more refined appearance th e pl ywood top is mitered at the corn er. When 3// ~t hick c herry edging is added on all sides,

Bond the particleboard subbase directly to the top plates of the kneewalls, taking care to achieve even overhangs of 6" in front and 4" on the bartender side of the walls.

13

Drive plenty of 2" deck screws to secure the subbase to the walls. The screw heads must be sunk beneath the wood surface.

Make 4s-degree miter cuts in the bartop top layer using a circular saw and cutting guide.

176 • TH E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVE S & BU1LT-1NS

the barlop g rO\vs to a finished width of ISH (a normal countc rtop, suc h as the bartender's cou ntc rtop on th e ca bi nets below, is 25" wide ). liip the particleboard to 16'/, " wide and th e n crosscut it to le ngth (one piece is lo nge r so they can be bu tted together). Attac h the strip s to the to p plates of the knccwalls using panel adhes ive and co untersu nk deck sc rews (photo 12). Iv lake sure to al ig n the subbase strips carefu ll y. T hey s hou ld overhang the !meewa lls by roughl y 6" in front a nd 4 " in back. Once you have bot h subb ase parts arranged perfectly, drive 2" d eck sc re\vs through the subb ase and into th e bar wall (photo 13 ). Be very genero u s he re. If yo u can't ge t th e screw head s to seat beneath the s urface of the subbase, drill cou ntersun k pilot ho les. Cut the c he rry plywood sheet into 16 1h" wide str ips, then cut mat in g miter jo ints at the ends (photo J 4 ). Take care here: most hardwood pl ywood has one side that is mllch nicer, so be Slife the cuts are made so the co rrect faces ,·viil be facing up when th e bartop is insta lled. A c irc ula r saw \,vith a sharp panel~ cuttin g blade and a straig htedge gui de may be u sed to make th ese cuts. Attac h th e top layer of che rry pl ywood to the subbase v·,Iit h pane l adhesive a nd J 1/4" wa ll board screws drive n li p through the subbase a nd into the underside of th e plywood laye r (photo 15 ). Make su re the mite red corn er fits together correctly before ap plyi ng any adhes ive or cutting the p lywood s trip s to le ngth (T ip: Wa it until the plywood layer is attached to the subbase to cu t the s trip on t he free en d to length. T hat \vay, you ca n cut it and th e sub base at th e same tim e and e ns ure that they a re exac tl y Aush ). C heck to make s ure the e dges of the glu ed- up bartop are s mooth an d fiat , a nd sand w ith a belt sa nde r if th ey a re out of al ignm en t o r there is a lot of g lue squeeze-ou t (usc n ne grit sandpape r to hclp prevent a n y splintering of th e venee r layer). tVlount a 'h l! to W' rou ndover bit in a router or router tabl e and cu t rou ndover pron les alo ng one edge of t he J X 2 stock you dressed to use for bartop e dging.

Attac h t he edging strips to the countertop with glue , 4d Rnis h nails d rive n into pilot ho les, a nd plenty of pipe clamps or bar clam ps (p hoto 16). Make sure th e tops of t he e dging boards a re flu sh \,vit h o r s li ghtly h igher t ha n t he plywood surface. If necessary, sand t he edg ing unti l it is flush a fter you remove t he c lamps. At the open countertop end , exte nd th e edg ing 3/./ pas t the end of t he glued -up layers. C ut a piece of 1 X 2 edgi ng to fit be t\,veen the ends of th e edg ing o n t he ope n e nd of th e counte rtop a nd attach it wit h glue a nd Rn is h nails (p hoto 17). Sand a ll wood su rfaces . Apply mu ltip le coats of very dura ble, glossy polyu ret hane varn is h to achieve a protective bu ilt-up Rnis h. Also pa in t t he unde rs ide of the ba rtop blac k where it is visible. Bui ld the lift gate

sectio n of t he co un te rtop as \ve ll and fi n ish it the same v,lay, except make it fro m t\VO layers of c herry plyvvood an d ap ply a clear finish to bot h faces.

Laminate the top layer of cherry plywood to the subbase with panel adhesives and 1'/,' screws driven up through the subbase.

Cut a roundover profile in one edge of the cherry edging stock and then cut the parts to length and attach them to the edges of the bartop with nails, glue and clamps.

Square-cut a piece of 1 x 2 edging to fit exactly between the ends of the roundover edging, and nail and glue it into place.

Nail the cherry end panel to the wall end to conceal the stud wall and the edges of the wallcoverings and trim.

INSTALL TRIM AND HARDWARE Hip-cut a strip of c her ry t hat's sl igh tl y wider tha n t he distance fro m the t il ed wall surface to 3/./ past t he apro n fro nt s (a bo ut 8") and th e n c u t it to fit be t\A/ ee n t he fl oo r a nd the u nd ersi de of the bart o p , w h ich shou ld overhang the en d wall stud by 3// o r s light ly mo re (photo 18 ). Cu t another ident ica l stri p. Attach one st rip to t he e n d of the kneewa ll a nd attac h t he other to th e wall on the oppos ite s ide of the pass-through so t he t\vo strips a re pe rfec tl y alig ned .

C11l1~ Bar •

177

19

Attach a 1 x 2 stop block for the li ft gate to the wall directly above the wall-mounted end panel.

20

C ut a strip of I x 2 cherry to 18" long a nd attach it to the wa ll , centered over th e 9tl-wide end pane l (photo 19). This st rip wi ll fun c tion as the stop for the lift ga te sec tion of co unte rtop. For cons iste ncy, roundovcr th e to p e dges of th e I x 2 so it looks like a section of co untc rtop . Attac h a pia no hinge to the square-cut mating e dge of t he lift gate co unte rto p section (photo 20). The barre l of th e piano hin ge shou ld be ori e nte d upwmd relative to th e burtop surface. Attac h the ot he r leaf of t he piano hin ge to th e edge of t he main counte rtop a nd tes t to see if it opens and closes easil y an d is level whe n open (photo 2 1). Cut the c he rry t ri m pieces to size to make the ladder grid s that de corate the aprons. Instal l th e strips, following th e patterns shown o n page 170 (photo 22). Make su re the e nds of the st rips a re tucked Aus h again st th e inside fa ce o f th e c he rry e nd pa ne l.

INSTALL THE CABINETS

Attach the piano hinge to the lift gate section of countertop first, then attach the other leaf to the countertop.

You ca n a ppoint th e bartender's area of t he Club Bar just about any way yo u wish because th e bartop and wa ll are freestanding, inde pende nt stru ctures . \Ale c hose to insta ll a cou ple of base ca bin ets, a dorm -s ize refrigerator an d an econom ica l, low-maintenance postform cOllntertop. Start by placing th e corn e r ca binet in th e corn er. Place the 24" ca binet to th e right of the corne r ca binet . Flush up th e face frames ( if they have th e m ; th e ones seen here are frameless ) and clamp th e ca bine ts together wi th ba r clamps. Pre-drill , co untersin k, and sc rew th e face frames or cab inets s ides together (see pages 62 to 77 for more informatio n on in stalling cOllntertops).

21

Attach the lift gate to the countertop and test to make sure it operates smoothly and correctly

178 • THE COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES

& BU1LT-1NS

Add the decorative cherry strips in a ladder grid pattern, using an air nailer. Start with the vertical strips, then cut the horizontals to fit.

Attach a countertop to the base cabinets to create an easy-to-clean work surface for the bartender.

Slide in a refrigerator, keg-o-rator or any appliance you choose.

Install a cou n tertop for th e barte nder (photo 23 ). We c hose <:111 inexpensive postform co unte rto p \,vit h a pre-c lit mite red corne r. If you've left o ne e nd of t he ba r open for a refrigera to r, install a wa ll clea t to s upport t he cou ntc rtop above t he refrigerator. Plug in a nd s li de in you r refrigerator (photo 2 4 ), add a cou ple of strand s of holid ay li ghts or any ot he r decor you fancy.

PARTY TIME In vite fri e nd s an d family to gat her 'ro und . As th ey say in Latin: Hes Ipso Loquitor: "T he T hing Speaks For Itself.'· Or, as one of my frien ds might say: "Jt's beer-thirty."

C llll~ Bar •

179

•

.J

J

I"' ,

SHELVING PROJECTS

' '1

,

•

I

I .

I Shelving Basics W

he n making shelves for your Aoor-to-ceil ing she lves or util ity she lves, choose shelving

materials appropriate for the loads they mll s t support. T hin glass shelves or particleboard ca n eas il y support light loads, sll c h as decorati ve glassware, but on ly the sturdi es t she lves ca n hold a large tel evision set or heavy re fere nce books without bend ing or breaking.

T he strength of a she lf depend s on its span- the di stance be tween ve rtica l ri sers. I n general, the span shou ld be no more than 36" long. Bui lding yo ur O\vn shelves from fi ni sh-grade

plywood edged with hardvmod st rips is a good choice for most carpentry projects. Edged pl yv,'ood shelves

are stro ng, attrac ti ve , and much less expens ive th an

so lid hardwood shelves.

Tools & Materials ~ Hight-angle drill gu ide Drill with bi ts IVi arlGn g gauge Rou ter

Ham mer

Na il set Shelvi ng ma teri al

Sc rap pegboard Pin -s tyle she lf supports Metal she lf standards Shelf clips Fi ni sh nail s

314" finish-grade

plywood edged with 1 x 2

hardwood

Attaeh hardwood edging or moldings to the front face of plywood shelves, using wood glue and finish nails. Position the edging so the top is slightly above the plywood surface, then drill pilot holes and drive finish nails. Use a nail set to countersink the nail heads. sand the edging so it is smooth with the plywood surface before you finish the shelf For greater strength, edge plywood shelves with 1 x 2 or 1 x 3 hardwood boards.

182 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUlLT-l NS

• •

Shelf peg

• • • • •

• • •

• •

Clip

Cleats

Cleats are often fastened to shelves with glue and dowels. They are fixed to verticals and the wall with screws.

Track Dado joint

The tracks sit in grooves in the vertical.

There are several

types of lbrackets available at home centers. Choose the bracket most suitable for the weight load of shelving.

Shelf span is the distance between risers. A shorter span strengthens a shelf.

I Modular Shelving S

he lving is not a one-size-fits-all pro pos ition. You r bee r ca n co ll ectio n has enti re ly diffe rent shelving

needs from yo ur Encyc lopedia Bri ttan ica volum es, which in turn have equ
One good way to custom ize shelvin g is to ma ke modu lar shelves with adjustab le supports.

\tVh ile display shelves can be as narrow as a couple of inches, typical storage shelves range between I I " (bookcases) an d 24" (closet or cabinet depth). In th is sec tion you'll learn how to make and fini s h custom shelves to any w idt h you choose.

Great for closets and utility storage, modular shelves are supported by adjustable pins or brackets so you can easily increase or decrease the space between shelves to meet your storage needs.

Tips for Making Shelves

~

Rip-cut shelves to the exact width you need from sheet stOCk. Quality plywood offers the most strength, but for ease of cleaning you'll appreciate melamine-coated particleboard.


Heat-activated veneer edge tape can be applied to the edges of plywood or particleboard shelves for a more finished appearance.

I How to Install Pin-style Supports for Adjustable Shelves

Mount a drill and %" bit in a right-angle drill guide, with the drill-stop set for %" cutting depth . Align a pegboard scrap along the inside face of each shelf standard, exactly flush with the end, to use as a template. Drill two rows of parallel holes in each riser, about 1'h" from the edges of riser, using the pegboard holes as a guide.

When the bookcase or built-in is completed, build shelves that are W' shorter than the distance between standards. To mount each shelf, insert a pair of W' pin-style shelf supports in each riser

I How to Install Metal Standards for Adjustable Shelves

Mark two parallel dado grooves on the inside face of each standard, using a marking gauge. Grooves should be at least 1" from the edges.

Cut dadoes to depth and thickness of metal tracks, using

After finishing the built-in, cut metal tracks to length to fit into

Make shelves so they are W' shorter than the distance

dadoes and attach them using nails or screws provided by the manufacturer. Make sure slots in tracks are aligned properly so shelves will be level.

between standards, then insert shelf clips into the slots in the metal tracks, and install shelves.

a router. Test-fit tracks to make sure they fit, then remove them.

Modular SlleiFillg •

185

I Installing Wire Shelving ire s helving provides a quick and easy solution to a cluttered closet. It lacks adjustability bu t is neve rtheless an inexpensive option to help o rgclll ize

W

you r closet. Basic wire shelving is attac hed to \va ll s wit h su pport brackets. Fo r e nti re wa ll le ngt hs we reco m me nd fi nd ing a sys te m that also has re tu rn wa ll brac kets (o ften called "s ide wa ll brackets") a nd suppo rt clips. Both drywa ll shclf clips a nd stud s he lf

vert ical may be di rectl y fastened to the wa ll. Shelf

brackets the n snap into the ve rticals an d shelves are set o n top of the shelf supports. These syste ms a re via ble

closet orga ni zers but ca nnot bear as much we ight as wood or me lam ine systems. T he span should be kept to 36" or less and have adeq uate suppo rt- by hitting studs where you can and us ing togg le bo lts every 16" .

cl ips are ava ilable at home cen ters. Support brackets p laced at stud locations furt her sta b ilize the unit.

Tools & Materials

~

A sl ightly adva nced style of wire shelving that is increas ing in popularity is track-mounted . It is available in more styles tha n stclll dard w hi te Vinyl-coated \A/ire

Level

She lVing system and ha rd vvare

shelving. This type of \·vi re shelving consists of a

Hacksaw

Dri ll

Measuri ng tape

ho ri zo nta l ra il track that s u pports vertica l ra ils, o r the

I How to Install Wire Shelving MEASURE WALLS AND MARK FOR SHELVING PLACEMENT Measu re the le ngt h of t he back wa ll a nd t he side

wa lls. l\ileasure up from the gro und to the desired he ight for the top shelf and drm-v a leve l li ne on eac h side wall. Note: The average miIdmU1H height above

ground is 48". Mark a ll stud locations along the back wa ll and side wa lls.

CUT WIRE SHELVING C ut wire shelving to fi t between wa lls, using a hacksm-v. For shelving lengt hs greater than 8 ft., cut mu lti ple shelves an d con nect them with the manufactu rer's co nnectors (w hic h are ofte n sold at home centers th at carry \,vire s helving) .

Measure your closet. and draw a level li ne 48" up from the floor.

ATTACH SIDE-WALL SUPPORTS On a side \va ll , dete rm ine placement of the side-\va ll support accord ing to man ufacturer instructio ns. If instructions are not provided by the manuFact ure r, fi t the su ppo rt in place on the wire shelf an d then, \,vhile ho ld ing th e shelf in place along the leve l lines, mark the screw hole placeme nts for the side-wall su ppo rts on the s ide wa lls. Predri ll ho les at th e marked side-wall support

locations. Hold a support in place and insert a toggle bolt thro ugh the su pport into the \va ll. Repeat \vith the other side-wa ll su pport. Note: If YO H can hit a stld,


& BU1LT-1NS

Measure and mark the length of the shelving onto the wire. Cut the wire shelving to length, using a hacksaw

Fit the side-wall bracket in place on the wire shelf and then, holding the shelf in place along the level line on back wall, mark the screw hole placements for the support on the side wall.

5

Mark the clip locations centered on spaces in the wire. (Inset) Mark actual Clip-pin hole placement according to manufacturer instructions.

6

predrill holes for the wall clips to the size and depth recommended by the clip manufacturer

Lower the wire shelving into place. Snap the support clips over th e wire shelving.

a toggLe bolt is not necessary; i'nstclld, use a standard J 'f, " drpvall screw.

by pressing the manufacturer pi n through th e c li p and into the wa ll. Use C;I ha rnrn er to tap st u bbo rn pins into the wal l. Lower \\f ire shelvin g into the side-v,rall supports u nt il they sna p into place. Gently press the back of the shel vin g into the s upport c lips.

Place the wire shelving into t he s ide-wa ll su pports. Simply lower t he shelvi ng into place until it c li cks into the supports. Have a helper hold the she lf

so that th e two side-wa ll brackets a re not beari ng the

ATTACH SUPPORT BRACKETS

load of the s helf. Check for leve l.

MARK WALL FOR SUPPORT CLIPS 'vVith w ire s he lving sti ll fit into the side-\val l sup ports, 11

make a ma rk approximatel y every 6 a long the \val L

Space the mar ks even ly be twee n st uds. Remove the w ire she lving. Hold a c lip at each mark, acco rding to manufactu rer instructions, and mark the pin-hole loca ti o n . Note: There is an offset fr01ll

the level line on. the wall that must be taken

i-l1tO

account.

Wh e re possib le, align support brackets at stud locations. Ma rk screw ho les on \vaJI. Deterrn ine w here the ot her brackets w ill go o n the wa ll for C;I uni for rn 11 appear<:II1ce. Space brackets approx irnate ly eve ry 16 apart a long th e bac k wa ll. Attach wa ll brac kets at stud marks, drilling screws th rough t he bracke t holes and into the ancho rs. For brackets that are not faste ned to studs, use toggJ e bolts. Fasten the ot her end of the brackets to the w ire shelving accord ing to the rn anufac turer ins tru ctio ns.

INSERT THE SUPPORT CLIPS IN THE WALL Predrill holes at th e s upport clip marks on the back

wed l for the pin-hole plClcem ent. In se rt the vVC;l lI cl ips

II/Mal/il1g Wire SlleiFil1g •

187

I Formal Bookcase F

ew furnishings add prestige to a space like a form a l

bu ilt in a modular fash ion , yo u can design it to any

Aoor-to-ceiling bookcase. Typica ll y built from clear

dim ensions yo u w ish.

hardvvood, the class ica ll y-designed bookcase deli vers

a re Rn ed, O ld World fee l. The bookcase show n here is made from red oak plywood an d red oak I x stock and moldi ngs flni shed with a high gloss urethane. V\1hat's also nice about thi s piece is that it incorporate s the

wa ll be hi nd it to ba lance all th at clear hardwood wit h a spl as h of co lor and depth. Th is is a fixed-shelf design th at enables you to bu ild s he lves anyw here you like to matc h your needs. And, beca use th e s he lf bays me


The fo rma l bookcase shown he re is 8 ft . long, 8 ft. high and in stall ed on a J 2-ft. long wal l. Because it's ce ntered in th e space , the mold ings an d sides return to th e wa ll , crea tin g nic hes on th e left an d right that

arc great for decoration . Howeve r, thi s bookcase can be built wa ll -to-wall if desired . It's a Aexi ble des ign. Fina ll y, the exact same style shelf ca n be built to take pa int. I nstead of using red oak, though, pop lar is a grea t choice for a pai nted finis h.

Tools Mi te r saw

Table saw C ircu lar saw Router

Drill/driver

Level Stud nnder Pull saw Flat bar Step ladder or work platform Air nailer Combin
Drywall or deck screws Finish nails

Glue Finish ing materi als

Materials (3) 3/, x 4 x 8 red oak plywood (16) I x 2 X 96 red oak plywood (4) I X 6 X 96 red oak plywood

( I ) I x lO x 96 red oak plywood (4) % X 3% X 84 oak pl)'vood (4) Rosettes

(4) Plinth Blocks I I lineal ft. red oak crown molding

(3) 2

X

2 X 96 pine


Desc.

Size

Material

Rosette

%x 4 x 4"

Red ook molding

4

Plinth block

%x 4 x 4"

Red ook molding

Desc.

Size

Material

Part No. H

A

2

Upright (outerl

'!. x 11 Y, x 96"

Red ook plywood

B

2

Upright (innerl

3/. x 11 1/1 X 94 W'

Red ook plywood

C

14

Shelf

3!. X 11'1, x 31

Red ook plywood

J

11

Shelf cleot (woll)

%xl Vl x31"

Red ook

D

11

Shelf nosing

J/. x l V2 x3l"

Red oak 1 x 2

K

22

Shelf cleot (sidel

%x 1111 x 10 3//

Red ook

E

4

Upright bocker

3;'

x SYl X 96"

Red oak 1 x 6

L

3

Crown molding

112

F

1

Fascia

%X9 Y1 X96"

Red ook 1 x 10

Ceiling cleot (longl

J1/zx J h x94 h

2x 2

G

4

Fluted molding

%x 3%x 78 12

Ceiling cleot (short)

]1h x 11/1 x 81/:t

2x 2

1

Red oak molding

M N

4

x 331i6" X cut to fit 1

1

Red ook

Formal Bookcase •

189

I How to Build a Formal Bookcase LAY OUT THE PROJECT ON YOUR WALL T hi s bookcase is des igned to be stick-bu ilt at your

installation site. T he best place to begin is by drawing layout lines o n t he wa ll. T he most important lines mark the locat ions of the fou f uprights, \vhich need to be vert ical a nd para ll e l, an d for the shelf cleats that mu st be horizo ntal a nd parallel. Sta rt by locatin g th e ce nte rli ne fo r the bookcase installation an d markin g it on th e base boa rd a nd on th e lVa ll. Measu re ou t 4-ft.

on eac h side of the ce nte rlin e and make mar ks for the outside e dges of the bookcase. These lines re presen t th e outer faces of th e left and ri g ht uprights. Us in g

a pull saw (if you have one), c ut and re move th e Cut through the base molding at the edges of the project area and remove it so the bookcase can fit tightly up against the wal l.

baseboard betwee n th e left and ri g ht ma rks. Make your c uts as sq ua re as poss ible (pho to I ).

Measure and make a mark I 53k" on each side of the centerline, dividing the project area into three equal bays. On eac h s ide of al l three verti ca l lines, mark out

%" to establish the locations of the 3/./'- thick uprights.

Carefully mark out the plumb lines for the outside edges of the uprights and continue the mark up onto the ceiling.

3

IVleas uri ng up fro m th e Aoor, ma rk ho ri zo nta l shelf cleat locations on th e wa lls a t th e back of eac h bay. The c leats sho uld sto p at the upright loca tion s so th e 3/.t" -th ick u prigh ts ca n fit snugly in betwee n the cleat end s. [n the drawing, there is one bo ttom s helf, se t 6'1z" off the Aoo r in al l three bays. The left a nd right bays have shelves 24", 48", a nd 72" up from the Aoor. T he center bay has a Single center she lf set at 36" off the top of t he bottom shelf ledge r a nd a top shelf at 7211 (see Diag mm , page 189). Usi ng a 4 -ft. level, ma rk ho ri zontal reference lines fo r the she lf clea ts in a ll three bays. Draw a small "X'. below each line as a reminder of w hi c h side of th e line to fas te n the c leat. The n , usc th e 4-ft. level to exte nd the outlines for the uprights a ll the way up from the Aoar to th e ceiling (photo 2). T hese sets of paralle l lines sho uld be %" apart and plumb. At th e ceiling, layout the locat ion for the 2 x 2 frame t hat c reates na iling s urfaces for the o ute r upri g hts and th e 1 x 6 upri ght backe rs th a t a re ce ntered o n the front edges of the uprights. The 2 x 2 fram e sho uld span from th e insi de faces of th e outer up ri g hts and ex te nd J J 'Iz" ou t fro m th e wa ll (photo 3).

Tip use a spacer as a gauge for marking the position of the front edge of the 2 x 2 nailing frame that is attached to the ceiling.

190 • TH E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CU STOM SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS

~

Make an 11 v,' wide spacer to use as a marking gauge.

5

4

Attach the 2 x 2 nailing frame to the ceiling at the layout lines, making sure to catch a ceiling joist where possible and using appropriate anchors in spots where no joist is present.

Attach all of the shelf cleats to the wall, making sure to preserve an even 'J." gap between cleat ends to make room for the inner uprights.

If yo u're insta lling undcrcabinet lights such as pu ck lights, locate thc cc ntc r of cach bay on th c ceiling a nd mark them for li ghts. Get a qualified e lectrician to install the wiring, fixtures, a nd svdtc hes. If yo u're doing the \\fork yo urself, follow loca l bu il di ng

you may need to usc toggle bo lts or othe r wall anchors to secu re th e frame a long th e front edge.

codes. Pull the "vire through the dryv.'all or plaster a nd pigta il (c u rl up ) for fixture installation later.

INSTALL THE NAILING FRAME For case of instal lat ion , assemble th e 2 X 2 nailing frame on the ground. Usc 2 12" pne umatic finish nai ls or wa ll board screws to join the 2 x 2 frame com ponents. Test to make sure the assembly is sq uare. Attach the fra me to th e ceiling by screwing up through th e members at ce iling joist locations (usc an elcctronic stu d findcr to idcntify th csc). Attach th e frame to th e wa ll's top p late at th e wa illcei lingjoint (photo 4). If the ceiling joists are parallel to the wa ll, 1

ATTACH THE SHELF CLEATS TO THE WALL Whi le plenty of f<:lsteners, in c luding tr im-head wood screv,ls or 8d n<:lils, may be de pendabl y used to connect th e I X 2 red oak she lf c lea ts to the wa lls at st ud locations, a pneumatic or cordless finish nai le r loaded w it h 2" na ils is ideal for the ta sk. It e liminates th e need to pre-d rill and counte rsink fasteners, as you wo uld w he n driving sc rews or hand-nai ling into hard wood . A pneumatic nailer also di spe nses fasteners quickly and accurately, malzjng it much easier \v hen you're worlzj ng a lone. C ut a nd in sta ll th e c leats at the layout li nes. A few dab s of constr uction <:Idhesive appl ied to t he wa ll behin d the cleats w ill add eve n more strength to th e co nn ectio n . Fasten th e c leat s so th e upright ret urn s can be insta lled around th em (photo 5).

Formal Rookcase •

191

INSTALL THE UPRIGHTS Cut the outer upri ghts ( 1 I lh" wide ) to full room height in length. Re st the bottoms on the fl oor and nai l the top ends to the ends of the 2 x 2 nailing frame (photo 6 ). Also drive Sd finish nails through the

uprights and in to the ends of the she lf cleats in the outer bays (drill pilot ho les first ).

Rout a roundover, bead or c hamfe r onto each edge of th e uprig ht backer if des ired (pho to 7). Cut t he inner uprights ( I I 'h" wide ) to length. They s hould be

the \vall and then position a I x 6 upright backer over the upright edge. Center the backer on the upri ght edge and nail it to the 2 x 2 nailing frame. Doublec heck that the upright is perpendicular to th e wa ll by measu ring the bays CIt t he \,va ll and at the fro nt of the upright and making sure th e measurements are the same. Then drill pilot ho les and dri ve Sd finish nai ls (or pneumatic nai ls) through the backer and into t he e d ge of t he upright at 12" interva ls (photo 8 ). In sta ll bot h inner uprights.

11// shorte r th an the outer uprights because they butt up against the underside of th e 2 x 2 nai ling frame on the ceiling. Position the inner uprights between the ends of the s he lf cleats that are attached to th e wu ll in eClch bay. At the cei ling, lise a fmm in g sq uare to make s ure the inner uprights arc perpendicular to

INSTALL THE SHELVES The she lves a nd she lf cleats help s tabil ize th e st ructure, so install them next . Start by na iling a s helf to the 2 x 2 cei ling frame a t the top of each bay (p hoto 9 ).

6

Nail the outer uprights to the ends of the nailing frame attached to the ceiling.

Routing a bead, round over, or chamfer adds nice detail and shadow lines to the upright backers.

9

Attach the upright backers to the front edges of the inner uprights with pneumatic or hand-driven finish nails.

192 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVE S & BUlLT-l NS

Attach a shelf board at the top of each bay to conceal the framework attached to the ceiling.

10

Attach the shelf cleats to the uprights, being careful to drive fasteners straight to prevent blow-outs in the upright returns.

Edge the red oak shelves with 1 x 2 red oak nosing that's bonded to the shelves with glue and finish nails.

12

Conceal the gap between the top of the bookcase and ceiling with crown molding or sprung cove molding. Installing crown molding can get complicated- consult a trim carpentry book if you are unsure how to work with crown molding.

A ttac h th e s hort she lf c lea ts to t he s ides of th e

uprights so each shelf is supported on three sides (photo 10 ). Use a leve l to make sure t he cleats a re level and a ttach th e m \vi th 4d fini sh na ils o r 1%,1 brads and adh esive. C ut th e re ma ining she lves to le ngt h and se t th em on t he cleats . C ut the I X 2 shel f nosing and a ttac h it to the front edges of th e exposed s hel ves, making su re the s he lves are flu sh with th e top edge of t he nos ing (photo II ). Use 4d fini sh na il s dri ven through p il ot holes or pn eumatic Ilnish na ils to Cl ttac h th e nosing.

ATTACH THE TRIM C ut th e I x 10 red oak fascia board the full width of th e bookcase an d na il it to t he top so t he e nds are Aush

Attach the plinth blocks, rosettes and fluted case moldings to compete the trimwork installation.

with th e ou te r faces of the outer upri gh ts. Make sure the fasci <:t board is level before attac hing it with nai ls

drive n into the tops of the upright backers. O nce the fasc ia board is in place, c ut , fit a nd attach th e crown moldin g a nd m old ing retu rn at th e top (photo 12). Insta ll th e plinth bloc ks at th e bottom of eac h u pright backe r, resting on th e Aoo r a nd ce nte re d sid e to side. The n, a ttach the rosettes a t the top of eac h up rig ht backer, ce nte red si de to si de. Meas ure fro m the bottom of t he rosette to the top of th e plinth

bloc k and cut fluted Gise molding to fit. Insta ll with ad hesive and na ils (p hoto 13). Fill nail ho les, san d an d appl y fini sh . If th e insta ll atio n room has base s hoe moldin gs, yo u may wan t: to add th em to you r bookcase for a cons istent look.

Formal Rookcase •

193

I Utility Shelves Y

ca n bui ld adjustable u tility shelves in a si ngl e afte rnoon using 2 x 45 and plai n 3/4 1\ plywood. OU

Perfec t for lise in a ga rage

Of

basement, utility shelves

a total wi dth of 68 11 • Yo u can e nlarge th e projec t eaS il y by addin g more 2 X 4 ri se rs and pl ywood she lves. Do not increase the indi vidua l s helf wid ths

ca n be modiA ed by addin g s ide panels an d a face

to more t han 36". The so le pla tes fo r the utility

fram e to crea te a fini shed look suitable for a fami ly

she lves are installed perpe ndic ular to the wa ll to improve access to the space under th e bottom she lves .

roo m or recreation area .

T he q ui ck-and-easy s he lf project s hown on th e following pages creates two colu mn s of s he lves wit h

194 • TH E COMP LETE GU IDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES

& BU1LT-1NS

D

D I I 1

D I I

~ ~

~

~

Tools

Materials

Cutting List

Pencil

Part

T<:Ipe measure

( 15) 2 x4x8 pine (2) 3/, X 4 x 8 plywood

Level

\t\1ood glue

Framing square

Sh ims

B

Drill/dri ver Plumb bob

Drywall or deck sc rews (21//, 3") Fi ni shi ng ma terials

Powder-actuated nai ler

C lamps

~

L&l

L&l

~

(

Desc.

Size

Material

Top plotes

68"

2 x 4s

3

Sole plotes

24"

2 x 4s

C

8

Shelf risers

93"

2 x 4s

D

4

End risers

93"

2 x 4s

E

12

Shelves

30Y. x 24"

'I." plywood

No.

A

Router \vith 3// straight bit

C irc ular sa,,\,

Step lad der

Utility She/pes •

195

I How to Build utility Shelves 2

Mark the location of top plates

on ceiling. One plate should be flush against wall, and the other should be parallel to first plate, with the front edge 24" from the wall. Cut 2 x 4 top plates to full length of utility shelves, then attach to ceiling joists or blocking, using 3" screws.

Mark pOints directly beneath outside corners of the top plates to find outer sole plate locations, using a plumb bob as a guide (topl. Mark sole plate locations by drawing lines perpendicular to the wall connecting each pair of points (bottom).

Cut outer 2 x 4 sole plates and position them perpendicular to the wall, just inside the outlines. Shim plates to level if needed, then attach to floor with a powder-actuated nailer or 3" screws. Attach a center sole plate midway between the outer sole plates.

Prepare the shelf risers by cutting ,,"-wide, ~"'-deep dadoes with a router. Cut

Trim the shelf risers to uniform length

dadoes every 4" along the inside face of each 2 x 4 riser, with the top and bottom dadoes cut about 12" from the ends of the 2 x 4. Tip: Gang-cut the risers by laying them flat and clamping them together, then attaching an edge guide (page 41) to align the dado cuts. For each cut, make several passes with the router, gradually extending the bit depth until dadoes are ~..' deep.

before unclamping them. Use a circular saw and a straightedge guide.


& BU1LT-1NS

Build two center shelf supports by

positioning pairs of shelf risers back~ to~ back and joining them with wood glue and 2'/2" screws.

Build four end shelf supports by positioning the back of a dadoed shelf riser against a 2 x 4 of the same length, then Joining the 2 x 4 and the riser with glue and 2'." screws.

9

Position a center shelf support (both faces dadoed) at

each end of the center sole plate, then anchor shelf supports to the sole plate using 3" screws driven toenail~style. Use a fram ing square to align the center shelf supports perpendicular to the top plates, then anchor to top plates.

Position an end shelf support

at each corner of the shelving unit, between top and sole plates. Attach the supports by driving 3" screws toena il~ style into the top plate and sole plates.

10

Measure the distance between the fac ing dado grooves and subtract '/". Cut the plywood shelves to fit and slide the shelves into the grooves.

Uti lit), She/Jles •

197

I Cube Shelves T

his shelving project w ill yie ld some lovely and distinctive display she lves, but building them is as m uc h a slzj ll -building advent ure for learni ng new tech ni ques as it is a carpentry projec t. If yo u're c homping a t t he bit to give you r nC\A,I s liding compound mi ter saw a wo rkollt, th is project "" ill be vcry sati sfying for you . Yet th ese cu be-s haped s hel ves arc qui te a ttract ive and functiona l in their own rig ht, co nstructed as they are wit h a combi natio n of basic boa rds, sim ple hardware, and imagination. YO LI can make the cube-s haped disp lay shelves fro m solid saw n \\food or sheet goods, depending on the look you' re after, w hat yo u'd like to di sp lay, and yo u r deco r. Yo u can make them d ifferent sizes, sq ua res or rec ta ngles, dee p or sha ll ow. You can eve n take one of t hose squares and flip it on point to make a diamond. Ve rsa tility and fun is the na me of t he game here, along w ith careful assem bl y. In c luded


& BU1LT-1NS

in the assembly instru c ti ons a re a few tip s for making square corners so you r handcrafted box is perfec tl y mac hin e d. The asse mbl y a nd co n nection deta ils he re are intended for small she lves an d di sp lay in g light ite ms, but fi nal des ign is up to you. The she lf un it shown he re is a 12" sq ua re made from c herry. You can use ot he r spec ies for diffe rent loo ks, or yo u can eve n mix and match species, paint some and leave others clea r, or stain t hem to bring out the gra in in the wood. Using a brad na iler an d glue, or fi n is h screv,ls and gl ue, will provide so lid mec hanica l co nn ections fo r th e corners. Trying to hand -na il this projec t is like ly to resu lt in frustrat ion. O th e r a ttac h me nt choices t hat work we ll for thi s project include a spline joint or using a plate joiner an d biscuits . These ten d to be more in th e dom a in of th e advance d woodwo rke r due to the precision and tools required, however.

B

A

BACK SIDE

,,

Tools

Materials

Cutting List

Cordl ess drill/dri ve r C irc ular savv

Scrap wood for jig I x 8 ha rdwood (5 ft., o r so)

Part

No.

Desc.

Stn:ti ghtedge

Keyhole pi cture hangers

A

4

(ubeside 'I. x IY, x 12"

Sand er

Fas teners

Size

Material

Hardwood

'h"·wide wood chise l

Ta bl e saw

ClIhe She/pes •

199

I How to Build Cube Shelves MAKE A FOOLPROOF ASSEMBLY JIG For mak ing square joints, do yourse lf a favor and build a very si m ple asse mbl y jig. The one s hown

here is easy to rnake frorn scra p stoc k. Al l you need to do is fctsten fo ur pieces of gil- long sc rap stoc k (poplar is good because it's ve ry strai ght and easy to

\<\Iark w ith ) to a Aat pi ece of scrap plyv.rood o r M DF to form two L's th at meet at a ri ght angle. Before cu ttin g yo ur wo rkp icccs, make su re your miter saw is

set up fo r a perfect perp endi cu lar cut. T hen , cut the four pieces and lay two of th em nat on th e plywood (about a 12" square will work ) so th ey butt together and form a 90° joi nt. Fas te n the two boa rds to the plywood , tak ing ca re to m
Pre-drill th e board s so th ey don't move \.vh il e yo u sc rew th em down . AFter the flat pi eces are insta ll ed, in stall th e ve rti ca l pi eces in a similar fash ion, fas tening th em to th e edges of the first workpieces

(photo I ). Coat th e outer faces of th e j ig w ith wax Build this simple jig to assist you in making perfectly square miter jOints.

or va rni sh to preven t glued wo rkpieces from st icking to it.

If You're Using a Power Miter Saw ... The easiest way to rnake the miter cuts in stock that's wider than 3" or 4" is to use a large capacity power miter saw or a radial arm saw. If you have a large capacity power miter saw, such as a 10" compound sliding miter saw, you need to make sure your miter saw is tuned to cut precise 45 miters. You'll also need a stop for your miter saw so you don't have to measure each piece individually. Because it's vital that each of the workpieces be exactly the sarne (even the smallest difference in the cuts will show up in the miters)' the stop is key for making accurate cuts.

~

0

Accuracy is important in this project-especially for the tools. Double check your saw's setting before you begin cutting and adjust as necessary If you're using a 10" saw, you'll be cutting on the bevel, so be sure to check this adjustment.


CUT THE SHELF PARTS You can use a sl iding miter saw or rad ia l ar m S3\>V to make the bevel cuts t hat form t he miters (see "If You're Using a Powe r Miter Saw, .. ", page 200). But jf yo u don'r ow n a saw \,vith e no ugh c<:Ipac ity to make a 45° bevel c ut in a 7 Ih"-wide bomd, YO LI ca n lise an ordinary c ircular smv. F irst, ca refully c ut th e vw rkpieces so they're a co upl e of inc hes lo nger than the fi nished length ( 12" is the finis he d length we usc he re ). Then, clamp the four boards toget he r edge- to-edge usi ng a bar c lamp or pi pe clam p. Leave plenty of room at

o ne e nd (the en ds of th e boa rd s sho ul d be Aush). Set your c irc ular $3\'V to C lit a 45 ° bevel. T hen, clamp a strai ghtedge gu ide in place so th e di stance from th e u ncl amped ends is slig htl y mo re t ha n the offset of the saw foot. Cut a ll four boa rds at once (photo 2). 11elocate the clamp nea r th e bevel-cut e nds, reposition the straightedge gUide an d bevel-c ut the other ends. Re -orient the workpi ece so th e miters will be fac ing in the correct directions. iV1ake Slire the bevels both slope inwa rd , and ma ke th e seco nd cut so the outside face of each wor kpiece is 12" long (photo 3).

Clamp a straightedge guide to the ganged work pieces and make a 45 bevel cut near one end. 0

Re-orient the workpieces so th e bevels wi ll not be parallel and gang them together again. Bevel-cut the other ends.

ClIiJe She/Jles •

201

ASSEMBLE THE SHELF Set two of the bevel-c ut workpi cccs up in the assemb ly jig. Dry- fit th e co rn e r to see th at it fits and the joint is tight. If it's no t, something is off a nd an adjustment is re quired. A pply gl ue to both ends a nd re-c rea te the jo in t. Reinforce v,lith fi nish nails driven w it h a pneum atic brad na ile r (photo 4). Faste n the othe r two wo rkpi eces in th e same fas hion, a nd th e n attac h th e two L-s hapes to fo rm th e fi nis he d squa re (photo 5). Ma ke sure you wipe away a ll glue sq ueeze-o ut wit h a da mp clot h o r sponge a nd al low it to dry.

v,lit h keyhole-style pic ture frame hangers that fit in to recessed c uts in t he back edges of the box. To hang th e box with thi s ha rdware , posi ti on th e box o n th e 11 worksu rface with th e bac k edges up. The n , drill a 1/4 deep by '/I6"-dia. ho le t hat's 3" from eac h e nd a long the e dge you want to be on top. Chisel out a '/sll-deep, 112"\,v ide x %"- Iong rn o rt ise t hat's ce nte re d ove r eac h hole and stop s just shy of t he edges of the board (photo 6). P lace the hanger in th e slot over the p re-drilled hole an d rn ark t he sc rew holes \v it h a penc il. Predril l th e hanger ho les a nd install the hangers, using a screwd ri ve r to prevent ove rdriving (photo 7).

INSTALL HANGING HARDWARE

FINISH & HANG THE SHELF

T he cu be-s hape boxes look most im press ive if they are mou nted on the wa ll with no visible mea ns of support. A good me thod for accompl ishing th is is to ha ng t hem

App ly yo ur finis h of c hoice a nd a ll O\>I/ it to d ry. Treati ng all faces of th e she lf \v ill help p reve nt environ rn ental forces (like hurnidity a nd tern pe rat ure chunge) frorn

After testing the fit. glue the first miter JOint together and reinforce it with an air nailer (if you must hand-nail. carefully drill pilots holes first). Use the assembly jig to square up the workpieces.

using the jig. assemble both LS with glue and fasteners.

202 • TH E COM PLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUlLT-l NS

cut a mortise for the body of the hanger hardware to rest in. Be sure not to cut through to the edge of the shelf so the connection will be invisible once the box is mounted.

opening the joi nts. Set the cube she lf leve l on the wa ll and mark the locat ions fo r the sc reV,is that will Ilt into th e keyho le picture ha ngers. Drill guide holes fo r plasti c \.va ll anc hors at th e hanger locations an d drive round -head wood sc rews so they leave a gap of about '/8" between the screw head and th e wal l. Slip the box over the sc rev" heads and tug dovmwmd to sec ure it

(photo 8).

Stepback box variation

~

Making cube-shaped shelves can take you further than single layer display shelves, enabling you to add layers and depth to your display boxes and the items in them. In other words, some photos look great in a plain frame while others call out for more detail. The good news is that adding detail to the shelf doesn't requ ire a major re-tool ing of your set-up. You can still use all kinds of materials, including MDF (shown here), though sizing down to smaller stock for smaller shelves looks more proportional. And, because this version is layered, you can mix and match species to create an eye-catching color contrast. Since there are 16 pieces in this system (not four) as in the project box- the easiest and fastest way to make accurate cuts is to cut and shape the stock for both the inner cube and outer cube, and then laminate them together with glue so the front edges are oriented correctly and the back edges are flush. Then, simply cut the workpieces, bevel the ends and assemble the cube as shown in the main sequence.

This 16-piece variation of the cube shelf has the added feature of shadow lines created by the stepped back sides.

Pre-drill the hanger holes and install the hanger hardware using a screwdriver or a drill/driver and a light touch.

Drive roundhead screws into the wall, using sleeves or anchors as needed. Then hang the keyhole hanger hardware mounted to the back of the shelf onto the screwheads.

Cube She/Jles •

203

I Closet Shelves T

hi s si mpl e p roj ect wi llmo re than double the sto rage potential in a s m a ll linen or pantry c loset.

Tools & Materials

~

It is pe rfect for light loads in closets \vith a span of 36" or less. The I x 3 furring strips are inexpensive

Stud fi nde r

3/4 "-thick

and easy to insta ll , and th e s he lving seen from th e outs ide o f t he door lend s a profess iona l tOll c h. If yo u

Tape meas ure

don't have a lot of time, but wo uld li ke to try you r hand a t a n insta ll ation to max imi ze )'our sto raoe 0'

Screwdriver Jig saw

stoc k (w itho ut predrilled ho les) X 3 pine \;Vood sc rews L-brackcts (optional ) Finish materia ls

sta rt here.

Leve l

Nail gun 6d and 8 d finish nai ls


shelving

I How to Install Closet Shelves Measure fro m the floor lip J 5" and mark a level line. Repea t level l ines every 12" Lip fro m ori ginal line (repea t fo u r t imes for an 80 "- tall c lose t) (ph oto I ) . C u t I x 3 stri ps to fit along the bac k side of the

wall , flu sh into eac h corner. C ut I x 3 strips to Ilt a lo ng \va lls, flu sh aga inst th e bac k wa ll 1 x 3 strips and 4" short of th e inside wa l l (a pproximately 6 " in f rom close t door t rack) . Al ign the tops of I x 3 strips wit h level lines o n \,va ll and Faste n to th e \,va ll , hitt in g stud s where po ssi bl e (p hoto 2). Note: If you cannot

hit a stud, use a self-driving 1uetal ancho r with machine screws every 10", Cut melam ine shelving stoc k (wit hout predril led holes) to fit along th e back side wa l l (meas ure wa l l and su btrac t 4"). Rest shelves on top of th e I x 3 st ri ps (p hoto 3) .

2

Fasten 1 x 3 strips to back side wall, flush into each corner, and fasten 1 x 3 strips along the side wall (as shown, ending approximately 6" in from door track). Align the tops of the 1 x 3 strips with level lines on wall and fasten to wall with a nail gun at studs. Note: If you cannot hit a stud, use a sel fdriving metal anchor with machine screw every 10".

Measure from the floor up 15" and mark a level line. Repeat level lines every 12" up from original line (repeat four times for an 80"-tall closet).

3

Cut melamine-coated shelving stock (without predrilled holes) to fit along back side wall (measure wall and subtract 4"). Rest shelves on top of 1 x 3 strips.

Closet She/Jles •

205

I Joist Shelving I

f yo u think you have comp lete ly run out of

YO LI

don't li se eve ry day. If yo u pl an on storin g liqu ids

storage space , but st ill have an unfini s hed ce ilin g so mewhere in the house or garage, think agai n. Thi s

on the she lf, make su re t he lids are closed t igh tl y before fo lding li p t he she lf. The des ign of the shelf

handy little she lf is built to At and fold lip directl y

is easy to c ha nge to m
be tween u nfi nis he d joists, stor ing utility it e m s until yo u need them . It is a good place fo r too ls, laundry

\;Vith a mi nimu m of effort and materi als,

YO LI

can

bu ild a si mpl e sto rage so luti o n for utility ite ms.

room supplies, smal ler sportin g goods, or oth er items

Turn joist cavities into efficient storage cabinets with these inexpensive, easy,to,build folding shelves.

206 • TH E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BU1LT,l NS

E

A

1

--

Joist line

Tools

Materials

Drill with bits 'hll spade bit

(1 ) I x 6" x 10 ft. pine (J) I x 4" x 6 ft. pine ( I) 'I,"~ X 4 X 4 ft. pine plywood (2) 'h"-d ia. X 3" carriage bolts (2) '/," lock was he rs (4) '/," nat was hers (2) '/," hex nuts ( I) 3/. "-thick plywood scrap Wood screws (#6 X 1'/," )

C irc ular saw

Hatchet set Combination square

C-cla mps Level T
\t\1ood glue (2) I/~ x 2" lag sc re\'vs

Cutting List Key

Part

Dimension

A

(21 Side

'/4x SVl X 30W pine

B

(I)

Top

0/4 X

0/4x 51/2X 14*" pine

SVl X 14*" pine

C

(I)

Bottom

D

(I)

Middle shelf %x SVl X 121/1*"pine

E

(I)

Botk

F

(21 Shelf roil

'/' x 14' x 32" pine plywood %x 2V2

X

12111*" pine

'C ut to fit

Joist SlwiFillg •

207

I How to Make Joist Shelving Before

YOLI

begin clitting th e pieces for the frame of

the joist she lvin g, measu re th e space be twee n th e joists w he re YOLI plan to insta ll the unit. Standard construc tion shou ld leave a 14 11z1! space between

ceiling joists . Ho\VCVCf, depen ding on how old th e wood is and hmv you r house has settled, th e space between yo ur jo ists co uld be anyvvhere fro m 12!1 to

16" . Make SlIre YO LI know th ose dim e nsions so YO LI can plan the rest o f the box cons tru ction acco rd ingly. Us ing a co mbination square as a guide, mark a

MAKE THE BOX

refere nce line ac ross th e interior face of each side

Measu re a nd eut th e sides (A), top (B), bottom (C ), and m iddle shelf ( D) of t he box frame to size from J x 6 pin e lumber an d san d the edges smoo th.

panel, 15 '1)' up from th e top of the bottom panel. T hese lines represent th e botto m of the shelf. S lide the middl e she lf into pos ition so the

Position the sides, top, and botto m panels w ith their

bottom edge is Rush with the reference lines. Drill

back edges on the wo rk surFace, \.vith the perimeter of

coun terbored pilot holes through th e sides and into

the box Ru sh at the outer edges.

the shelf. A ttac h th e shelf using gl ue and Sc re\vs.

Dril l eou nterbo red pilot ho les th rough th e bottom and top pane ls into the si de panels and assem ble the frame, usi ng glue and wood screws driven through th e

ends and in to th e sides (p hoto I ).

Assemble the frame of the box, using glue and 1'k " wood screws.

Cut the shelf ra ils (F) to th e proper le ngth a nd sa nd th e edges smooth . rVl ark reference lines for the

shelf ra ils 6" up from t he top of the botto m panel and 6" up from t he top of the m iddle shelf.

Clamp the shelf in place between the joists and drill holes for the carriage bolts.

208 • TH E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CU STOM SH ELVE S & BUlLT-l N S

Insert a carriage bolt through the shelf walls and joists, then add a washer, lock wash er, and hex nut.

Atta c h th e rails so th e ir top edges are Aush with th e refe re nce lines an d the front surface of th e ra il

INSTALL THE SWINGING ASSEMBLY Slide the ca rri age bolts through t he hol es fro m t he

is flu sh w ith the sides. Drill co unterbored p ilot holes

interior of th e shelf, and thread a fl at washe r, lock

throu gh the rails and into the sides and attach th e m, using glue and wood sc rews . Cu t th e bac k panel (E) to

DRILL HOLES THROUGH THE JOISTS

\\lasher, and nut onto the carri age bo lt unti l they are snu g, using a ratchet set if necessa ry (photo 3). Do not overtigh ten the assembly or the shelf \,vill not rotate. Test th e shelf by rotating it up into the cei ling, making su re it glides easil y between th e joists. vVith a penci l, make a reference mark on both joists,

Hcfe r to th e top in se t of the diagram on page 207 for

approxi mately 2" in from the bottom edge of the shelf

spec ifi c instructions on th e location of the swinging

in th e up position .

size and attach it to th e back edges of th e box frame ,

using glue and \\lood sc rews.

assembly holes .

Clam p th e unit into position betw·een the jo ists so it is leve l and so th e to p o f t he shelf is approximately 3" from th e subAoor above. Wh en t he

shelf is in pos ition and c lamped ti ghtl y, drill a Ih " ho le o n ei th e r side of th e shelf, through th e joists an d in to th e shelf (photo 2 ).

INSTALL THE CLEATS C ut the sc rClp piece of 1/.,," plyvvood into tv.'O pieces approxi mately 1/." x I lh X 4". Use two 1/." X 2" lag sc rews to attach the sc ra p pieces of pl yv.100d to th e bott om edges of th e joists so th at the edges are Aus h with the inside edges of the joists (photo 4) . T he scra p pieces shou ld be tight but still easy to rotate. Hotate cleats to hold t he shelf in its closed position.

Variation ~ If you want a deeper shelf (photo 5), use the same construction method, but alter the dimensions. Install this

The shelf must be clamped tightly in place; otherwise,

larger box by driving four lag screws through the jOists.

it may fall during installation. Do not place weight on

The shelf will be stationary, but it will still utilize space near

the shelf until it is completely installed, or you could

the ceiling. See the bottom inset diagram on page 207.

risk injury.

Screw plywood cleats into position to act as latches for the shelf.

TO build a deeper, stationary shelf, build the unit with wider lumber, and drive two 'k x 2" lag bolts through each side of the shelf and into the adjoining Joists.

Joist SlleiFillg •

209

I Bin & Shelving Unit T

his versatile wa ll accessory offers clever storage

with less wall space, a shorter unit may be buil t by

space for ro lled hand towels, soaps, and other sma ll

items. The uni t can be custom-des igned to fi t th e

making on ly two V-sec tions . Or, add more V-sec tio ns for a large r wa ll space. For eve n mo re ve rsa ti lity, the

ava ilable wa ll space and depth for any roo m. In areas

V-sections may be mounted in stair-s tep fas hion.

store smaller items in the bins of this shelving unit, reducing clutter on your countertop or vanity.


& BU1LT-1NS

D

,

i

,

• e eTools

Materials

Mi te r saw Jig saw

J x 6" x 4 J x 8" x 4

C lamps Drill with bits 118 adju stable counterbore bit

3/8 "~ di a.

ft. pine ft. pine

dO\.vei

Hamme r

Cotton s\vabs Wallboa rd sc rews (/18 x I 'Is") Wood glue

Sma ll hand saw Stud ~nder

Finis hing materia ls Sandpaper

D

Cutting List Dimension

Key

Part

A

(I)

B

(5) Shelf panel

C

(I)

D

II 5) Dowel pieces %"-dio x Ill" dowel

Shelf panel Bocker board

3/~

x SV1 x 8W' lumber

V. x SV1

X

7W' lumber

¥. x IV<' x 3 ft. lumber

Bill & Slle illiJ1g U J1il •

211

I How to Make a Bin & Shelving Unit CUT SHElF PANELS & ASSEMBLE A V-SECTION Cut the longer s helf panel (A ) and all five additiona l she lf panels (8 ) to size using a miter saw. Sand a ny rough e dges smooth using ISO-grit sa ndpape r. Position the panels o n the table as they w ill be assemb le d , checkin g the fit and layout of each panel. Make sure the longe r she lf panel (A) is fa rth est to th e right of the assembly. C lamp the longer shelf pane l (A) to o ne of the regular shelf panels (8 ) at a right a ngl e so that the edges are Aush against the works urfaee (photo I ). Adj ust a #8 counterbo re bit to a tota l depth of 2". Dri ll th ree eq ually spaced counterbo red pilot hol es through the longer shelf, 3/.," from the 100,v er edge. Each ho le should have a 1// cOllnterbo re. Drive 1%" wa llboa rd screws into eac h hole of the cla mped assembly.

ATTACH THE REMAINING SHELF PANELS Attac h each remaini ng shelf panel at a right <1ngle, repeating the constru ctio n meth ods described in th e first step. Cla mp eac h new shelf to the work piece so that the ne w shelf is flush agains t the wo rksurfacc, with the side edges of eac h new panel Rush \,vith the side edges of the workpiece (p hoto 2 ).

PREPARE THE BACKER BOARD Lay the completed shelf assembl y on the backer board, so that the top point of each V-sect ion is Aush wit h t he backer board's top e dge. Trace t he outline of th e V-sectio ns on th e bclCke r board and cut a lo ng th e lmver cutti ng li nes using a j ig saw (photo 3). Draw lines on the Front of t he bac ker board showing th e locations of the wa llboa rd sc rews in th e V-sect ion asse mbl y. Mark the position for three sc rews along each side of the V-sections, avo iding the lines made for the wallboard screws inside the V-sectio ns. Then drill ho les t hrough the backer board at the p laceme nt marks, using I/~ !I drill bit.

INSTALL THE BACKER BOARD P lace unit o n the table, wit h the front e dge facing dO\vn. Turn the backer board over, a nd pos itio n it on top of the wor kpi ece, aligni ng t he edges. Keeping th e unit a ligned w ith t he backer board, drill a pi lot hol e in the placeme nt mark closest to the ce nter of the middl e V-sectio n w ith the adjusta bl e eoun te rbore bit. On ly dri ll deep enough with the bit to create a counters ink for th e head of the screw.

2

Clamp shelf A to shelf B and drill three equally spaced counterbored pilot holes through shelf A into shelf B.

212 • T HE COMP LETE GUIDE TO CU STOM SH ELVE S & BUlLT-l NS

Clamp each new shelf to the workpiece so that the new shelf is flush against the worksurface.

Drive a vva ll board sc rew into t he co un te rsunk pilot hole (pho to 4 ) and recheck t he al ign ment of th e

two pieces. Dril l and cou nte rsink t he remai ning pi lot holes and drive wal lboa rd sc rews t h rough th e ho les into the V-sec ti ons, startjng \vith t he ends of t he u nit and worki ng your way back to\vard the cen ter.

APPLY THE FINISHING TOUCHES

Sand t he plugs Ru sh with t he su rfClce, usi ng SO-grit sa ndpape r on a sandi ng bloc k. Sand t he en ti re unit un til smooth, using fi ne-grit sandpaper. Paint th e uni t or app ly t he stain of you r cho ice and a c lear acrylic finis h . Let th e finis h d ry according

to the manufactu rer's instructions. To mount t he s helving unit, locate studs in the wall to use as mounting points. If no studs are avai lab le, mClke su re to use t he prope r type of \vall fastener.

Cut a 3/8" dowel in to Ill" lengths to usc as wood plugs for t he eounterbored holes. Bevel onc end of cae h

Variation ~

p lug by sa nding or fi l ing it sl ightly. Place a smal l amount of wood glue in t he

counterbored holes using a cotto n swab. Insert a wood plug into eac h hole, beve led e nd first, a nd tap it in

Using the same assembly steps, make a diagonal shelving unit as shown on page 210. Increase the

place w it h a hammer o r a ru bber m allet (p hoto 5).

"step up" effect by cutting the shelf panels to

'v\fipe away any excess gl ue usi ng a da mp ened cloth. Allow the glue to dry ove rn ight.

graduated lengths. Cut the lowest shelf at 8'1,' long,

Sand thc ou ter edgcs of t he backer board and edges

the second shelf at 7'k" long, the next two at 6'k", and the last two at 5'k" long. Then hang the shelf on the

of the shelves . Cut off thc excess of the plugs af ter t he

wall diagonally The graduated shelves allow you to

glue has d ried us ing a smal l hand saw. T he p lugs should

place heavier, larger objects on the lower shelves and

onl y extend sl ightly from the surface. Take care not to

lighter more decorative pieces above.

sc ratch the wood surface vvhe n trimm ing t he plugs.

•

Mark lines on the backer board front indicating where the V-sections are screwed together. Then mark reference lines for three screws along each

section.

Position the back er board over the workpiece, aligning the edges, and drive screws through countersunk pilot holes starting with the hole closest to the center.

Tap the wood plugs into the counterbored holes. Allow the glue to dry, and trim the wood plugs using a small hand saw.

Rill & SIIe/viJ1g Uuil •

213

I Trimwork Wall Shelves H

ere's a nea t trick: Build a she lf that sto res, displays and elevates your favo rite collectibles and kni ck

knacks so they're \,ve ll w ithin sight but safely out of the way. Building these built-up projects is a fun mix

of rough and finish ca rpe nt ry. \t\1e shO\,v you hO\"1to make (\'vo varia ti ons here: one is a mass of step ped-

back M DF strips that has rcal presence w hen painted. The other is a more refi ned three-part assembly sim ilar

to cornice mol ding that is made with pine and pine mol di ngs an d boasts a c lea r wood fi nish. The feature both shelves share is a bro<:ld, Aat surf<:lce that

performs as a handy display shelf.


If you' re building the crovm molding version of this project, o ne skill you may wish to brush up on ahead of t ime is cutting cmd cop ing crovm molding. Working with crown molding requires some mental gym nastics, but once YO LI learn the fl oor rO lltin e you 'll

be glad yo u did . You can hang your new s helves at just about any he ight, alt hou gh they natura ll y loo k more comfortable hi gher up o n th e wa ll. At least try and position them at or s lightly above eye leve l. Locating the shelves so the bottom edge rests on top of a door head casing is one good strategy.

In this proj ect we detai l two basic interpre tati ons of th e she lving strategy. Both are essent iall y bu ilt-up box beams, al though o ne uses c row n mold ing as th e featured trim whil e th e other is base d on ste pped -bac k strips of stock. The re a re a lso diffe re nt va ri at ions on how t he shel f ca n be installed. For exa mple, you can wrap t he e ntire room with it, si mpl y spa n from one wa ll to a noth e r, or place it on three wa ll s on ly, e tc . Not on ly is thi s built-in tota ll y home-m ade, but t he design is Aex ible to suit d iffe re nt needs and tastes .

And by c hoos ing trim types and styles th at already are prese nt in yo ur home yo u ca n e nh ance th e builtin look. The two styles of trim work she lves seen here a re cons tructed with s imple butt joi nts for ease of building. If you have t he woodwo rki ng eq uipm e nt and skill s, cons ide r using dado joints instead of butt joints w here it ma kes se nse. \t\lith dad o joints, t he wood parts ca n expand and co ntract (as th ey a re pro ne to ) withou t: c reat ing se pa rati o n gaps.

Trimwork H01l She/Jles •

215

Crown Molding Shelf

A

E B

Stepped Version Shelf

Tools

Materials

Table saw Mi ter smv Level or laser level

Cutting List: Crown version Part Desc.

No.

Drywall or deck screws Finish nails Finishing materials

Drill/d river and bits Tape iV1easure Square

Size

Cutting List: Stepped Version Material

Part Desc.

No.

Size

Material

MDF

Shelf top

%x 7" x length

Pine or oak

A

Shelf top

B

Shelf bottom

%x 2%" x length

Pine or oak

B

Shelf bottom

%x 6111 x length %x 3111 x length

C

Shelf front

%x 4W' x length

Pine or oak

C

Shelf front l

%x 4111 x length

MDF

D

(rown

%x 41/." x length

Crown molding

D

Shelf front M

%x 3 x length

MDF

E

ledger

E

Shelf front S

%x ] 1/1 x length

MDF

F

Filler (opt.)

F

ledger

] Vl x 3Vl x length 2 x 4

G

Filler (opt.)

A

I'

] 1/2

lor2

x 3W' x length 2 x 4

%x 2%x 3W

Pine or ook

• Make m itered return if end of s helf is open

216 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVES & BUILT- tNS

lor2

0/4

x 31/1 X 3Vl

MDF

MDF

How to Build Trimwork Wall Shelves MARK LAYOUT LINES AND INSTALL LEDGER

layo ut and Jill t he gap that'll be crea ted over th e oth er

While yo u can use a spi rit level to create level lin es at

w indO\,v5 \.vith caulk.

the spec iAed height across the wa ll , use a laser level instead if you have access to one (photo I ). There are

Select a straigh t 2 X 4 and ClIt it to le ngth. Use an electronic stud find e r to locate wa ll studs in th e insta llation area, a nd mark the wa ll stud s just below the leve l line. C hoose high quality, 41!-long screws for attaching th e ledge r: e ithe r use te mpered hex-head dec k sc rews or square drive multipurpose ca binet

many types of lase r levels on th e market a nd eac h is operated different ly from th e others, but all w ill do

a nn e job of acc u rately projec tin g a line arollnd th e room quick ly so you can mark it on th e \va ll. Some, suc h as a rotating lase r leve l, al lo w yo u to use the li ght beam cast by th e lase r level as the refe ren ce, so yo u don't need to ma ke marks on the wa ll s. If yo u plan to install yo ur shelving Aus h w ith the top s of yo ur doo r or vvindO\v casing and you find th at

th ey are not leve l but a re close to level (say, \,vithin 1/4"), use th e highest opening as th e contro l poi nt for yo ur

screws . Apply panel adhesive to th e back of t he ledger and position it so th e bottom edge fall s just above th e

level line and th e e nds are in th e cor rect spot. Dri ve a pai r of sc rews through t he ledger and into th e wal l studs at eac h stu d location (p hoto 2). These screws

don 't nor mall y req uire a pilot hole.

How to Build a Crown Molding Shelf

1 ___r-

2

Use a laser level to create a level reference line for the shelf ledger installation. Mark the location of the bottom edge of the ledger, making sure to allow room for the bottom panel above the door trim and for the full height of the finished project.

Attach the ledger to the wall studs with 4" cabinet screws and panel adhesive. Double-check to make sure the ledger is level after you drive the first screw.


217

3

•

Attach the bottom strip to the ledger board with panel adhesive and wood screws driven into counterbored pil ot holes.

Attach the shelf to the top of the ledger, making sure the ends are flush with the ends of the bottom strip.

BUILD A CROWN-MOLDING SHELF We des ig ne d thi s crown -moldin g based shelf to be

proportiona l to the same size and sha pe mo lding that already existed at the ceiling in our insta ll ation room (% " x 4 1/4" crown ), Jn stall molding pieces from the bo ttom a nd wo rk yo ur \"/a)' lip. If yo u're w rapp ing a roo m , do "laps" w ith eac h layer of trim. Rip oak stock for th e bottom pane l to w idth (2W' as seen here ) a nd cu t it to le ngth. Finis h sand all oak parts to 150 g rit


before in stallin g the part s. O n th e bo tto m strip, drill a co untcrborcd p il ot hol e every I t', located in a line 3// in from th e back edge of th e strip . Attac h th e

bottom strip to the ledge r wit h pane l adhesive and 2 3//' Rat head wood sc rews (photo 3). Next, rip a nd c ro ssc ut th e top pane l to w idth and le ngt h and th e n attClc h it to the top of the ledge r w ith pa nel ad hesive a nd 6 d fi n ish nails (photo 4 ). Th e en d s s hou ld be Ru s h w ith th e bottom strip ends ,

Attach wood spacers to the front face of th e ledger to align the front panel when it is pressed against the spacers.

5

Attach the front panel by nailing it to the bottom strip first, and then driving finish nails through the top panel.

o

and t he top pu ne l s ho uld be butted c lean ly agai nst th e wa ll. Measu re th e di stance from the front face of the ledge r to the front edge of th e bottom strip an d cu t a few spacers to this le ngt h from sc rap. Attac h th e spacers to th e face of the ledger at severa l spots a long th e length of th e le dger (p hoto 5). T hese space rs w ill ensu re th<:lt the front p<:tnel is ve rt ical w hen it is pos itio ned aga inst th e spacers.

Rip a nd crossc ut the front panel to v,lidt h a nd length , press it against the space rs so the top edge is Ru s h agains t the un de rside of th e top panel and a ll e nd s a rc aligne d . [nsta ll th e front pa nel by driving 6d finis h nails through th e fro nt panel a nd into th e edge of th e bo ttom stri p (photo 6). You a lso may nail at the s p<:I cer loca tio ns if yo u \vish. A lso dri ve na ils thro ugh the top pa ne l a nd into th e top e dge of the front panel. Set t he na il heads with a na il set.


219

Cut the crO\vn molding to length. If yo ur shelf m Of e open ends or occ upies more tha n

has one or

o ne wa ll , see th e materia l o n ma kin g a crovm mold ing return (pages 42 to 43 ). Fit the mold ing between the bottom of t he top panel and t he top of the bottom strip, maki ng sure the flat ends of t he molding are

fl ush against t he surfaces. Dri ll pilot ho les and drive nai ls <:It J 2" in terva ls through the molding a nd in to the top an d bottom stri ps (p hoto 7). Cove r na il a nd sc rew hea ds wi th \.vood putty a nd the n sand and fi nis h t he she lf, matc hin g the o th er room t ri m if poss ibl e .

Finally, nail the crown molding in place at 12" intervals.

I How to Build a stepped Shelf 1

This variation of the trinnvo rk wa ll shelf idea lIses facegl ued strips of MDF to create a stepped-down \.vaterfall effect . 'vVhi le you can certa in ly build the w hole project piece-by-piece, yo u'll be a ble to do faster, mo re accu rate \vo rk if you can preassemble the t hree stepped down strips on your worksurface . [f you a re add in g a re turn o n the shelf, as we do here, pre-assem ble t he strips for the lo ng wa ll o nl y, the n cut each strip for the mating section to le ngt h a nd butt them up aga inst t he ir counterpmt on t he Il rst section of shelving. Layout and ins tal l the ledge r o r ledge rs as shown for the previous crown mo lding project. Make a si m p le butt joi nt in the corner (photo I). If t he ret urn shelf is sho rt, yo u can strengt he n the ledger by d rivin g a


Attach the 2 x 4 ledger or ledger to the wall at your installation lines, using cabinet screws and panel adhesive.

couple of sc rev,ls t h ro ug h t he lo ng ledge r a nd in to t he e nd of the ret u rn ledger. Attac h t he top a nd botto m strips as show n in steps 0 a nd E of the crow n she lf mol d ing project. T hen rip stoc k for t he t hree step strips to \,vidth ( Jlh", 3" a nd 4 Ih"). Cu t t he stri ps sl igh tl y too lo ng an d the n glue t hem toget her o n your \vorksurface, maki ng sure the tops are Rush. Drive some 2" wa ll board screws through t he back face of t he ta ll stri p a nd into th e two sho rter stri ps to draw the m toge ther (pho to 2). Afte r the glue-up dries, cut th e glue-up assembly to final lengt h . Trim bot h ends to ma ke sure the e nds are a ligned. T hen, attach some s pace rs to the front face of the ledger a nd attac h the three-st rip glue- u p by d ri ving

screvvs th ro ugh the assembly und into the front edge of

be approximately 3/./ longe r workin g from to p to

the bottom panel (photo 3) . A lso drive screws thro ugh

bottom ). I nstall t he tall strip Rrst , and then attach

the top panel an d into the tops of the glued-up strips. Attac h th e top an d bottom strip for th e return

(ph oto 4) .

shelf. Make the top long enough to overhang the end of th e return , if visibl e, by j " . Butt the ends of the

opening between th e ledger and the shel f front and

top and bottom strips up aga inst th e top and bottom strips alread y mounted on the \\lu ll. Th e n, measure fo r eac h of th e three stepped strips, measuring from th e mating edge of its co unt erpart o n th e wa ll to th e end of th e return (each successive strip will

th e sho rte r ones in success ion using glue and screv/s If the return has an exposed e nd, measure th e cut a fill e r piece to fit (in thi s project, th e piece V,ICl S 2" wide and 3 1/2 " tal l. G lue and nai l the fille r into th e opening. The n, cover nail and sc rev/ heads with wood filler, ca ulk any ga ps between th e project and th e wa ll (photo 5), and th cn san d, prime and paint th c projcct .

3

On a flat worksurface, join the three stepped strips together to create strong joints and simplify assembly of the shelf.

4

Cut each stepped strip individually to butt up against the mating strip in the corner and fasten with wallboard screws.

Attach the stepped strips to the top and bottom strips mounted on the ledger.

5

Caulk gaps and fill nail and screw holes before sanding and painting your shelf project.


221

I Box Beam Shelves I

f you' re looking for a basic sta rter project that you can finish wi th yo ur own Aouri shes a nd Aai r, you've come to th e ri ght place. This she lf is made fro m a basic des ign platform that looks great as is, but it ca n be eas ily al te red with t rim and fini sh options . In add itio n to its ve rsa tility, this she lf has the be nefi t th at its co nn ec ti on to the wa ll su rface is invisib le. The reason is that th e "box" has no back and yo u ca n sl ip it ove r a ledger board fas tened to the wall. Fastening through the top of the box holds the assemb ly secu re ly in place wit ho ut brac kets or even any visi bl e faste ne rs, c rea ting a tight, integrated look. As a des ign e leme nt in any li ving spuce YO LI ca n make severa l Box Beam She lves and hang th e m at diffe re nt heights in a room to create a n acce nt wa ll. Or, hang several of them at the sa me level an d c reate a picture ra il , of sorts. They're perfec t for displaying

222 • T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SH ELVE S & BU1LT-1NS

c he ri shed items and an ideal spot for lo ng, Ao wing potted plants. Anot her possibi lity is to dado in a plate groove fo r di splayi ng plates and c hin a. I f yo u \V<:IIlt to c hange t he size, shape, a nd reveals o n t he basic box you ca n add diffe re nt m o ldings a nd trim to m a ke it you r own. T he good news is that th e assem bl y te c hni ques for bu ilding th e box remain th e sa me . All yo u need to do is adjust the measurell1en ts. T he s he lf laid out here is fabr icated from MDF and show n painted , but YO Ll co uld ll1<1ke it OLl t of hardwood stock a nd matching hardwood ply\vood if yo u prefer. The basic she lf-box is co mposed of five pieces: three sides, a bottom , an d a top. T he shelf is 25 'h" wide, 10'1:' deep, a nd 3'1:' tall. T he top she lf panel is a single piece of 3// M DF th at is 26 1h" wide and I 13// deep. The ledge r is a 2x ripped I lh" sq ua re .

Tools

Materials

Table saw

3/;"

Miter sav,{

F<:Isteners I) 2 x 4 scrap (at least 24" ) I) tube adhesive cau lk I ) scrap of 1/. / plywood

C ircular saw Router

Ladder Level Cord less drill/driver

MDF

Cutting List Desc.

Size

A

Top ponel

3/4 X

B

Bottom ponel 'l.xlDx24"

MDF

3/ /

MDF

Part

No.

Material

11 3f4 x 26W

MDF

C

Side wrops

%x 2Yz x 10

D

Front wrap

%x2 1h x2SW

MDF

E

[Ieot

l V1 x l Y1x 23%"

2 x 4 (or 2 x 21

Sctnder or pmver planer

Box Beam She/pes •

223

How to Build Box Beam Shelves M ost power miter saw s do not have a 10" cutting capacity. To cut the wide stock for this project, you can either make a portion of the cut on the miter saw then turn the board around so you can finish the cut, or use a circular saw and squareguide.

The key to a durable, good-looking assembly is to cut the sides and the front strips that wrap the bottom panel bottom panel accurately. Careful measurement and cutting keeps the miter joints tight and together duri ng assembly.

CUT THE PARTS

Cut the bottom panel to size ll sing a sliding power

Th e first step is to c ut all th e pieces on th e miter and tab le saw. II' you need to, rough-cut the M DF sheet to size lIsing a circu lar 5a\,V, but make th e final cuts w ith the miter saw
by fabri ca ting

th e sheWs bOLtom panel. Then , make th e pieces for a three-s ided (or C-S haped) shelf box. Th e pieces wi ll be assem bled aroulld the bottom panel. C ut th e topshelf pane l. Finally, rip the ledger from a piece of 2x

stock . T his asse mbly wor ks best if c utting tolerances are kep t ti ght, so be extra careful w ith measuring, marking, and cutting.

miter smv (or a circu lar saw and straightedge guide if yo ur miter saw does n't have a 10" cut ca pac ity-

photo I ), or a table saw. Beca use th e sides and front w rap around the bottom panel, it is the control point for the rest of th e layout. Cutting it accurately is important. Be careful Lo be as exac L as yo u ca n while

cutting. Cu t stoc k for the shell' si des (ca lled the panel w raps ) to 21h" wi dth and sand , joint, or plane out any

saw marks left behind. A lso c ut th e top panel to size. Rip th e ledger to w idth ( I 'h") and cross-cut it to length. Cut the panel wraps to length using th e miter

saw (photo 2).

224 • T HE COM PLETE CU I DE TO CUSTOM SHELVES & BU l t:l' INS

Clamp the bottom panel to the bench to keep it stationary while you fasten the panel wraps around it, enabling you to focus your attention on getting the assembly tight.

prior to installing the front panel wrap to the left panel wrap, dab each miter with adhesive caulk.

ASSEMBLE THE PARTS Assembl ing the parts squure and tight all starts with the bottom pa nel -it's t he guide for getting the mi ters n ice a nd t ight. For fasten in g, a cordl ess dri ll a nd tr im drive screws (p re·dri ll a nd co un ters in k a ll holes) is great. A brad na il e r or ll nis h na ile r \·v ill also wo rk n icely. Should you u se a pneumatic too l like this, make sure to drive fasteners stra ight into the stock. Na ils drive n at a n angle can blO\·v out of t he material
the be nch then clampi ng t he bo ttom panel ove r it, propping it up (photo 3) . Fo ll ow up by w rapp ing t he bottom panel \vit h t he pa ne l wraps. Fasten the left pa ne l wrap to t he botto m pane l. Use the front p<1nei v,lmp to g u ide yo ur exac t place me nt of t he left panel v,rrap. I n other words , matc h up the miters o n the front and left panel wraps, t hen fasten the left pa nel wrap . App ly ad hesive cau lk to t he le ft pane l wrap m ite r a nd the left side miter on t he fro nt panel wrap (photo 4), then insta ll the front panel w rap. iVIake su re to have a damp clot h or spo nge to vv ipe away any squeeze-o ut. Repeat this process fo r t he ri ght panel \.vrap a nd insta ll. O nly fasten the bottom edge.

Box Bealll She/Jles •

225

Use a rou ter and profllin g bit to shape a decorative

HANG THE SHELF

edge " lo ng th e fro nt of the top pane l (ph oto 5). Att"ch th e top piece to the box frame. Before fastening, use a

provides an in visi bl e con nec tion. The open bae k of

I nstalling th e Box Beam Shelf on th e wa ll ledger

combinati on square and doubl e~c h eck th at all revea ls

the shelf slips over a ledger board you fasten to the

are the saille (photo 6).

wall studs. You then drive sc rews through the shelf

CAULK & FINISH

connec tion. It may be tempt ing on some wa ll s to

I t's easier to ca ulk and paint thi s projec t in the shop

si mpl y use h ollow~\,va ll anchors in stead of locating an d

tha n it is on th e wa ll. Caulk, prime, an d pain t as

fastening to two stud s, but because all the weight of

panel down into the ledger for a very snug, ve ry secure

desired. A sma ll paint roller sleeve wi ll give a smooth,

the Box Beam She lf is ou t at the front edge, that is not

professional fini sh (photo 7) .

a recommended co nnec ti on. Besides, at 24 II long, th e ledger for the Box Beam Shel f shou ld cover at least

6

cut a decorative profile along the front edge of the top panel, such as the agee profile being routed into the top panel here.

Before fastening the top panel on top of the box frame, make sure that the reveals are equal all the way around and that the back is flush to the back edge of the box assembly.

8

Finishing this BOX Beam Shelf in the shop is much easier than finishing it in location . Prop it up on its back edge during finishing so you can access the top, sides, and bottom with a paint brush. Be careful not to knock it over.


Make a solid connection with the studs by driving two screws per stud through the ledger. 1f the stud is near the end of the ledger, pre-drill and countersink before fastening.

two vvu ll studs ulmost anY\"lhere you put it (es peciull y if you r \"lu ll s have 16 o.c. framing), D eterm ine the sheWs fin a l loca t io n and mark it

9

on the wa ll . T ry to locate it so that the ledge r fall s over two wa ll framing members. Strike a leve l li ne. Sc rew th e ledger to th e wa ll studs with 3'h " deck sc rews (photo 8). U se two screws per stud. Predri ll countersunk pilot holes for at least th ree dec k screws

3// in fro m th e bac k edge of the top panel.

Slip the Box Bea m Shelf over the ledger so the bac k edges are flu sh agains t the wa ll su rface. Faste n the shelf to the wa ll by driving

t'

dec k sc rews through the

p ilot holes and in to th e top of th e ledger (photo 9).

"Other Ideas"

Hold the shelf tight to the wa ll and fasten using at least three 2" deck screws driven through pilot holes and into the tops of the ledger.

~

One great feature about this shelf design is the numerous ways you can add your own details to it. You can use your table saw to cut in a plate groove in the top shelf panel or apply a molding detail with casing, chair rail or crown under the top shelf panel to provide lift, create texture and add shadow lines. You can add a second top shelf panel a littler larger than the first to create a layered effect. And you can wrap the back with a picture-frame molding. The sky is the limit. You need to alter the sizes of the shelf box and the top shelf to fit these additions so lay them out carefully before you begin cutting wood. But, because the ledger board connection is strong but small, th ere is room to move. Here are some ideas to get you started :

PLATE GROOVE Adding a plate groove is easy and a smart addition if you plan to display plates or other items like framed photos that you intend to lean on the wall. You can cut the grooves in a single pass on your table saw using a dado head cutter, or you can take multiple passes with a standard saw blade to create the groove. Make the groove %" to %" wide and '/4" deep. You can even use a router and edge guide to plow a dado into the top of the shelf panel. Tip: When cutting the groove, do not cut all the way up to the ends of the board. That way, the groove will be invisible when viewed from below or straight on. If you cut past the shelf ends you'll be able to see the groove.

MOLDING DETAIL Adding a basic chair rail molding is the easiest add-on option for the Box Beam Shel f. Depending on the chair

rail you choose, you may not even have to alter the measurements on the shel f box, and you can apply the chair rail right to the box. However, if you select a molding that is more than W' thick, trim th e box size by %" so you can keep the top shelf panel's 1" overhang. If you add a molding that's 1" thick or thicker, make the sides of the box 1" shorter and 1" thinner to compensate.

LAYERS using two- instead of one- top shelf panels is another simple but interesting way to add detail. Make the second top shelf panel 'h" deeper and 1" longer than the original shelf panel shown above. Then, instead of routing a bead on the top of the panel, rout a chamfer on the bottom of each shelf panel to make them look like they are stepped and ascending. Routing a cove is also a nice detail.

PICTURE FRAME Whichever shel f you build, you can add a picture frame molding to the back of the unit to make the unit look like it is an extension of the wall space. The idea is to use 1 x 4 or MDF ri pped to width and wrap the back of the Box Beam Shelf with it. Install the shel f box without the top shelf panel and fasten into the ledger board from the sides. Install the picture frame molding before installing the top shelf panel or any other molding combinations. Also be aware that the picture frame molding adds 'I,' to the overall depth of the shelf so you may want to trim a corresponding 'I,' off your top shelf panels.

Box Bealll She/Jles •

227

I Floor-to-Ceiling Shelves F

loor-to-ce i ling s he lves are sturdie r and make better use of space t han freestanding bookcases. Wh e n fini s he d a nd tri mmed to matc h t he surroun din g rOOIll , Aoor-to -ce iling shelves t urn an ord inary roo m into an invit ing den or lib rary. T hi s projec t llses finis h-grade oak p lywood a nd a so lid oak face frame to create t he look of an expensive, so lid oak s helf unit at a fra c t ion of the cost . The pl ywood pa ne ls are supported a nd st rengthened by a n interna l fram ework of 2 x 4 stud lumbe r.

\;Vhen instu ll ing Aoor-to-ce iling shelves in a corner, as shovvn he re, add 1// ply\,vood spacers to the support s t uds t hat
228 • T H E CO MPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTO M SH ELVES & BU1LT-1NS

Tools

Materials

Tape measure Penci l

Plumb bob Dri ll with d rive bits

( 12) 2 X 4 X 8 pinc (3) 't X 4 x 8 oak plywood (2) 3j, x 4 x 8 oak plywood (3) I x 4 x lOft. oak ( I ) I x 3 X 10ft. oak Fin ish nails ( 11/1", 2" )

Hammer

Dr)"vall or deck screws

Level Fra ming square

C ircular saw Houte r 3// straight bi t

( ]3/-t", 2" , 3")

Sh ims Meta l s helf standards and c li ps Fin ish ing materials

Cutting List Part

No.

Des c.

Size

Material

A

6

Top ond sole plotes

59y,"

2 x 4s

B

6

Support studs

91 ';'"

2 x 4s

End ponel

950/. x 13"

y,"

ook plywood ook plywood

C

D

4

Top. bottom ponels

27 '1. x 13"

y,"

E

8

Risers

44'1. x 13"

';'" ook plywood

F

2

Permanent shelves

27 '1. x 13"

%" ook plywood

G

8

Adjustoble shelves

26 '1. x 11'1. %" ook plywood

Stiles ond bottom roil

28 lineal ft.

I x 4 ook

Top roil, middle roil

10 lineal ft.

I x 3 ook

Shelf edging

18 lineal ft.

I x 2 ook

H

1// plywood scraps

Carpen ter's gl ue

J

Flonr-/o-Ceili l1g She/pes •

229

How to Build Floor-to-Ceiling Shelves

Mark the location for two parallel 2 x 4 top plates on the ceiling, using a framing square as a guide. The front edge of the outer top plate should be 13" from the back wall, and the other top plate should be flush against the wall. Mark the location of the ceiling joists; if necessary, install blocking between joists to provide a surface for anchoring the top plates.

3

Measure and cut the 2 x 4 top plates. Position each plate, check to make sure it is level, and install shims if necessary. Attach the plates to the ceiling with 3" screws driven into the joists or blocking.

~ -

Cut 2 x 4 sale plates and screw them together to form two doubled sale plates. Use a plumb bob suspended from the outside corners of the top plates to align the sole plates. Shim the plates to level, if needed. Anchor the plates by driving 3" screws toenail-style into the floor

Install 2 x 4 support studs between the ends of the top plates and sole plates. Attach support studs with 3" screws driven toenail-style into the top plates and sole plates.


Install the center support studs

midway between the end support studs. Attach them to the bottom plate first, using 3" screws driven toenail-style. Use a level to make sure that each stud is plumb, then attach the studs to the top plate with 3" screws.

Where the shelves fit into a corner, use 1%" screws to attach '." plywood spacers on the inside faces of the support studs, spaced every 4" . Make sure spacers do not extend past the front face of the studs.

Where the end of the project is exposed, measure and cut a 'h" plywood end panel to floor-to-ceiling height. Attach the panel to the support studs so the front edges are flush, using n... screws driven through the support studs and into the end panel.

Measure and cut 'k " plywood top and bottom panels to fit between the support studs. Attach to the top and sale plates using 1'. " fin ish nails.

10

Measure and cut lower risers from plywood, then cut dadoes for metal shelf standards using an edge guide (page 41).

'k "

Install lower risers on each side of the 2 x 4 support studs so the front edges are flush with the edges of the studs. Attach risers with 1'." finish nails driven into the support studs. For risers that adjoin the wall, drive nails at spacer locations.

Measure and cut permanent shelves from ¥.' plywood to fit between the support studs, just above the lower risers. Set the shelves on the risers and attach them with 1'k " fin ish nails driven down into the risers.

Floor-to-Ceilil1g She/Jles •

231

13

Measure and cut upper risers to fit between the permanent shelves and the top panels. Cut dadoes for metal shelf standards, then attach the risers to the support studs with 1'h" finish nails.

Measure and cut 1 x 3 stiles to reach from floor to ceiling along the front edges of the exposed support studs. Drill pilot holes and attach the stiles to the support studs so they are flush with the risers, using glue and 1'h" finish nails driven at 8" intervals.

15

Measure and cut 1 x 3 top rails to fit between the stiles. Drill pilot holes and attach the rails to the top plate and top panels, using carpenter's glue and 1'k" finish nails.


Measure and cut 1 x 4 bottom rails to fit between the stiles. Drill pilot holes, and attach the rails to the sale plates and bottom panels, using glue and 1'h" finish nails. The top edge of the rails should be flush with the top surface of the plywood panels.

Fill nail holes, then sand and finish the wood surfaces.

Measure, cut, and install metal shelf standards into the dadoes, using nails or screws provided by the manufacturer.

Measure and cut adjustable shelves ,, " shorter than the distance between metal standards. Cut shelf edging, and attach it with glue and 1'h" finish nails. Sand and finish the shelves.

20

Insert shelf clips into the metal shelf standards and install the adjustable shelves at desired heights.

Cover gaps between the project and walls and floor with molding that has been finished to match the shelf unit.

Floor-fa-Ceilillg She/Jles •

233

I Photo Credits Aristokraft Cabinetry © Aristokraft Cabin etry; p. 6 www.aristokraft.com Todd Caverly © Todd Caverly fo r Judy Ostrow, Designer; p. 7 (right) © Tod d Caverly fo r G. M. Wild Construction, Inc.; pp.1D, 15 (bottom left) © Todd Caverly; p. 15 (top) Diamond Cabinets © Di amond Cabinets, a division of MasterBrand Cabin ets, Inc.; pp. 5, 9

www.d iamondcabinets.com Focal point Architectural products © Focal point Archi tectural product s; p. 7 (left) www.foca lpointa p.com KraftMaid Cabinetry, Inc. © KraftMa id Cabinetry, Inc.; pp.13, 16 (bottom) www kraftma id.com Omega Cabinetry © Omega Cabin etry; p. 15 (bottom right) wwwomegacab.co m Quality Cabinets © Quality Cabinet s; p. 14 www. quali tycab inets.com Quentin Harriot © Quenti n Harriotlwwwewastock.com; p. 17 Brian VandenBrink © Brian VandenBrink © Brian VandenBrink © Brian VandenBrink © Brian VandenBrink

for for for for

Elli ott Elliott Norelius Arc hitect s; p. 8 (top) Brett Donham Architect; p. 8 (bottom) Centerbrook Archi tect s; p. 12 (top) Lo Yi Chan Arc hitect; p. 12 (bottom)

Wellborn Cabinet, Inc. © Wellborn Cabinet, lnc., pp.11 (both), 16 (top) wwwwellborn .com


Index A Access space, standard built-in measurements for, 31 AC plywood, 28 Actual vs. nominal sizes, 32 Adjustable shelves, installing, 185 Adjustments, making small width or height, 32 Angled finish nailers, 26 Assembly jigs, making, 200 B Bars, building, 168-179 installing bartop, 176-177 installing cabinets, 177-178 installing countertop, 179 instal ling trim & hardware, 177-178 making aprons and trims, 173-174 making kneewall coverings, 174-175 making kneewalls, 172-173 overview of, 168-171 Base cabinets instal ling, 58-59 installing for window seats, 82-85 standard built-in depth measurements for, 31 Basements bu ilding joist shelves for, 206-209 building shelves for, 194-197 Base shoe returns, cutting mitered, 43 Bathrooms

building towel towers, 136-141 building wall cabinets, 156-161 ideas for, 8-9, 14-15 making bin & shelving units, 210-213 Bedrooms ideas for, 8 making bed surrounds, 88- 93 making loft beds, 94-101 Belt sanders, 25 Benches, building country-style, 104-109

Bevel returns, 42 Biscuit joiners, 25 Block planes, 22, 23 Bookshelves/ bookcases building floor-to-ceiling shelves, 228-233 building formal, 188-193 ideas for, 10-11 for window seats, 80-87 Box beam shelves, building, 222-227 Brad nailers, 26 Brads, 27 Butcher block, 62 C Cabinets adding doors, 46 carpeting and, 153 door options, 47 installing, 54-59 base, 58-59,82-84,90, 91-93 corner, 54 kneewall,162-167 wall, 55-57,90,9 1 Chalk lines, 21 Children's rooms ideas for, 15 making loft beds for, 94-101 Chisels, 22, 23 Chop saws, 24, 25 Circu lar saws, 24 Closet shelves, installing, 204-205 Combination squares, 21 compound power miter saws, 24, 25 Compound power miter saw stops, 200 Compressors, 26 Construction tools, 22-23 Contact cement, 68, 73 coping saws, 22, 23 Cordless drills, 24 Corner cabinets, installing, 54 Corner unit hobby centers, building, 150-155

Couches, storage under, 12 Countertops installing laminate, 68-75 installing post-form, 64-67 materials, 62-63 wood edges for, 76-77 Country-style eating nooks, building, 102-111 benches, 104-109 tables, 108-11 1 Crown molding wall shelves, building, 214-220 Crown staples, 27 Cube shelves, building, 198-203 Cutting jOints, 36

o Dado jOints, 215 Diagrams accurately scaled, 30 for cutting, 33 Display units building box beam shelves, 222- 227 building cubes, 198-203 building floor-to-ceiling shelves, 228-233 building trimwork wall shelves, 214-221 building V-step bin and shelving units, 210-213 building wall niches,l12-117 ideas for, 7, 11 step back boxes, 203 Doors adding, 46 options for, 47 Drawers building basic overlay, 48-49 measuring for, 48 standard built-in measurements for, 31 Drawings, making, 30

frub: •

235

Drills, cordless, 24 Dry bars, building, 168-179 installing bartop, 176-177 installing cabinets, 177-178 installing countertop, 179 installing trim & hardware, 177-178 making aprons and trims, 173-174 making kneewall coverings, 174-175 making kneewalls, 172-173 overviewof,168-171 Dust masks, 22

E Ear protection, 22, 35 End nippers, 22, 23 Eye protection, 22, 35

F Fasteners, pneumatic, 27 Files, 22, 23 Finishes applying grain fillers, 53 making sanding sealers, 51 for moist areas, 156 preparing wood for, 50-52 using sanding sealers, 53 when to apply, 161 Finish nailers, 26 Finish nails, 27 Finish sanders, 25 Fitting joints, 36 Frameless doors, 47 Framing squares, 21

G Garages, building utility shelves for, 194-197 Glass doors, 47 Grain fillers, applying, 53 H Hammers, 22, 23 Handsaws, 22, 23 Hardwood veneer plywood, 28 Headless pins, 26, 27 Height adjustments, making small, 32 Hidden shelving, making, 206-209 Hobby centers, building, 150-155

Home offices building understairs work centers, 142-149 ideas for, 12-13

Inside corners, mitering, 40

J Jig saws, 24 JOints, cutting & fitting, 36 Joist shelving, making, 206-209 K Kitchens building dividers to separate eating & cooking areas, 118-127 building eating nooks, 102-111 benches, 104-109 tables, 108- 111 creating islands for, 60-61 ideas for, 8,11, 12, 16 making countertops, 62-77 installing post-form, 64-67 laminate, 68-75 wood edges for, 76-77 Kneewall areas building work centers, 142-149 ideas, 16-17 installing cabinets in, 162-167 Knives, 22, 23

L Laminate countertops, building, 68-75 Laser levels, 21 Laundry centers, 128-135 building utility shelves for, 194-197 lighting in, 128, 130, 134-135 making joist shelving for, 206-209 Layout tools, 20-21 Level, establishing, 44-45 Levers, 21 Lighting for bed surrounds, 88 in laundry centers, 128, 130, 134-135 in work area, 34 Loft beds, making, 94-101 Lumber, 29

236 • THE COMPLETE CUIf)E TO C USTOM SHELVES & BUILT·INS

M Materials actual vs. nominal sizes, 32 list of, 33 lumber, 29 sheet goods, 28 Measurements, 31-33 Medium density fiberboard (MDF), 28 Medium density overlay (MDO), 28 Metal files, 22, 23 Metals standards for adjustable shelves, installing, 185 Mitered returns, cutting, 42-43 Modular shelves, 184 Moldings, adding, 227 N

Nail guns, 26 Nails, 27 Niches, building, 112-117 Nominal vs. actual sizes, 32 Nooks and crannies storage ideas, 16- 17

o Odd-shaped room seating ideas, 12 Out-of-square outside corners, mitering, 39 Outside corners, mitering, 38-39 p

Pin nailers, 26 Pin-style supports for adjustable shelves, installing, 185 Planers, 25 Planning steps, 30-33 Plate grooves, 227 Plumb, establishing, 44-45 Plywood,28 Pneumatic fasteners, 27 Pneumatic tools, 26 portable compressors, 26 Post-form countertops, installing, 64-67 Power miter saws, 24, 25 Power miter saw stops, 200 Power miter saw techniques, 37-43 mitering inside corners, 40

mitering outside corners, 38-39 Power planers, 25 Power tools, 24-25, 35 Preparation steps jobsite organizing, 34 planning, 30-33 profile gauges, 21 Protective gear, 22, 35 Pry bars, 22 Putty knives, 22, 23

R Random-orbit sanders, 25 Rasps, 22, 23 Ready-made cabinet doors, 47 Reciprocating saws, 24, 25 Room dividers building, 118-127 storage idea, 11 Routers, 25

S Safety gear, 22, 35 Safety issues, 35 Sanders, 25 Sanding sealers making, 51 using, 53 Sandpaper grit chart, 51 Saws, 22, 23, 24,25, 37 Seating building country-style benches, 104-109 ideas for, 8, 12 standard built-in measurements for, 31 Sheet goods, 28 Shelves attaching cleats to wall, 191 attachment methods, 183 building box beam, 222-227 building cube, 198-203 building floor-to-ceiling, 228-233 building joist, 206-209 building trimwork wall, 214-221 building utility, 194-197 installing adjustable, 185 installing closet, 204-205

installing wire, 186-187 modular, 184 standard built-in measurements for, 31 strength of, 182, 183 Side cutters, 22, 23 Sliding doors, 47 Sliding miter saws, 37 Sale plates, thickness of, 32 Solvent-base contact cement, 68 Sports equipment storage ideas, 15 Square corners, establishing, 44-45 Square inside corners, mitering, 40 Square outside corners, mitering, 38 Standard built-in measurements, 31 Staplers, 26 Staples, 27 Stepback boxes, 203 Stepped wall shelves, building, 214-217, 220-221 Stops for miters, 200 Straightedge guides, 41 Stud finders, 21

T Table saws, 25 Tape measures, 20 T-bevels, 21, 45 Tools construction, 22-23 importance of quality, 20 for layout, 20-21 pneumatic, 26 power, 24-25, 35 TOp plates, thickness of, 32 Towel towers, building, 136-141

V Veneer edge tapes, 184 V-step bin and shelving units, making, 210-213 W

wainscoting paneling, 28 Wall cabinets, installing, 55-57 Wall display units building box beam shelves, 222-227 building cubes, 198- 203 building floor-to-ceiling shelves, 228- 233 building trimwork wal l shelves, 214-221 building V-step bin and shelving units, 210-213 building wall niches, 112-117 ideas for, 7, 11 step back boxes, 203 Water-base contact cement, 68 Width adjustments, making small, 32 Window seats, making, 80-87 installing base cabinets, 82-85 making bookcases for sides, 86-87 Wine racks, 16- 17 Wire shelves, installing, 186-187 Wood glues and headless pins for, 27 grain fillers for, 51, 53 lumber, 29 preparing for finishes, 50-52 sheet goods, 28 Work area set-up, 34 Work-surface height, standard built-in measurements for, 31

U Underbed storage ideas, 8 Understairs building kneewall cabinets for, 162-167 building work centers, 142-149 wine storage ideas for, 16-17 Utility knives, 22, 23 Utility rooms building joist shelves for, 206- 209 building shelves for, 194-197 ideas for, 15 I I/dex •

237

I Conversion Charts Converting Measurements To Convert:

To:

Multiply by:

Multiply by:

Inches

Millimeters

25.4

Millimeters

Inches

0.039

Centimeters

2.54

Centimeters

Inches

0.394

Feet

Meters

0.305

Meters

Feet

3.28

' YardS

Meiers

0.914

IMeters

Yards

1.09

Square centimeters

6.45

Square inches

0 .155

Square feet

10.8

Square centimeters

Square meters

0.093

Square yards

Square meters

0.836

Square meters

Square yards

1.2

Cubic inches

Cubic centimeters

16.4

Cubic centimeters

Cubic inches

0.061

Cubic feet

Cubic meters

0.0283

Cubic meters

Cubic feet

35.3

Cubic yards

Cubic meters

0.765

Cubic meters

Cubic yards

1.31

Ounces

Milliliters

30.0

Milliliters

Ounces

033

Liters

0.473 (Imp. 0.568)

Iliters

Pints (US.)

2.114 (Imp. 1.76)

liters

0.946 (Imp. 1.136)

liters

Quarts (US .)

1.057 (Imp. 0.88)

[square feet

[ Pints (U .S.) Quarts (U.S.) tGaliOnS (U.S.)

Ounces t pounds

Ilsquare meters

Liters

3.785 (Imp. 4.546)

Liters

Gallons (U.S.)

0.264 (Imp. 022)

Grams

28.4

Grams

Ounces

0.035

Kilograms

0.454

Pounds

22

IKilograms

Lumber Dimensions Nominal - U.S.

Liquid Measurement Equivalents

Actual - U.S .

METRIC

1x 2

¥4 x 11k'

1x3 1x4

=¥4 x 21h'

19x 38 mm 19 x 64 mm

=¥4 x 31;2' ¥4 x 4112'

19 x 89 mm 19x114mm

=¥4 x 51;2' ¥4 X 6V4' ¥4 X 7V4'

19x 140mm 19x159mm

1x5 1x6 1x 7 1x 8 1 x 10 1 x 12 1V4 x 4 1V4 x 6

=¥4 X 9V4' ¥4 X 11V4' 1 x 31;2' 1 x 51;2'

1V4 x 8 lV4xlO

1 x 7114' 1 x 9V4'

1V4 x 12 11k x 4

1 x 111/4' lV4x31h' 1V4X5112'

H 2x 6 11k x 8 11;2 x 10 11k x 12 2x4 2x6 2x8 2 x 10 2 x 12 3x6 4x4 4x6

•

To:

Inches

Square inches

238

To Convert:

1114 x 7114' 1114 x 9V4' 1114 X 11114' 11k x 31;2' 11k x 51;2' 11k x 7114' 11k X 9V4' 11kx 11114' 2112 x 51;2' 3 112 x 31;2' 3 112 x 5 112'

19 x 184 mm 19x 235 mm 19x 286 mm 25x89mm 25x140mm 25x184mm 25 x 235 mm 25 x 286 mm 32x89mm 32 x 140 mm

1 Pint

= 16 Fluid Ounces

= 2 Cups

1 Quart

= 32 Fluid Ounces

= 2 Pints

1 Gallon

= 128 Fluid Ounces

= 4 Quarts

converting Temperatures Convert degrees Fahrenheit (F) to degrees Celsius (C) by following th is simple formula: Subtract 32 from the Fahrenheit temperature reading. Then, multiply that number by &t. For example, nOF - 32 = 45. 45 x % = 25°C. To convert degrees Celsius to degrees Fahrenheit, multiply the Celsius temperature reading by 9;5. Then, add 32 For example, 25°C x 9;5 = 45. 45 + 32 = n°F.

FAHRENHEIT

CELSIUS

32x184mm 32 x 235 mm 32 x 286 mm 38x89mm 38x 140mm 38x184mm 38 x 235 mm 38 x 286 mm 64 x 140 mm B9xB9mm 89x140mm

T H E COMP LETE GUIDE TO CUSTO M SH ELVES & BU1LT· 1NS

Freezi ng

I

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The Complete Guide to Attics & Basements CZ::Complete Guide to Attics & Basements is the perfect

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Black - Decker the Complete Guide to Custom Shelves - Built-Ins+OCR

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