best+of+beadwork+8+projects+by+designer+of+the+year+Jean+Campbell.pdf

ddddd

Best of

8 projects by Designer of the Year Jean Campbell

About the Designer Jean Campbell designs, teaches, and writes about beadwork. She is the senior editor of Beadwork magazine and has written and edited more than 45 books, most recently including Steampunk Style Jewelry and Creating Glamorous Jewelry with Swarovski Elements. Jean regularly contributes to BeadingDaily.com and is a Crystallized Elements Ambassador for the Swarovski Company. She has appeared on the DIY Jewelry Making show, The Shay Pendray Show, and PBS‘s Beads, Baubles, and Jewels where she gives how-to instructions, provides inspiration, and lends crafting advice. Jean teaches off-loom beading throughout the United States. She lives in Minneapolis, Minnesota with her family and a whole lot of beads. Visit Jean’s website at www.jeancampbellink.com.

2

1

1 Mod Metal and Crystal Pendant 2 Garden Gate 3 Ancient Earrings 4 Glamour Girl Necklace 5 Sassy Sisters Bracelet 6 Serenity Earrings 7 Sjournee Flower 8 Golden Oak Techniques

5

4

3

PAGE 1 PAGE 2 PAGE 4 PAGE 6 PAGE 9 PAGE 12 PAGE 14 PAGE 17

PAGE 21

7

6

8

More wonderful beadwork projects are available at interweavestore.com. © 2011 Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. page ii

project I’ve been seeing so many of these 1970esque pendants around, I thought I could make my own. I’ve created a silver chain to attach to my pendant, but you can also use ribbon, leather, or prefabricated chain.

1) Cut 1 head pin to 2½", 2 to 2¼", 2 to 2", 2 to 1¾", 2 to 2½" 2 to 1¼", and 2 to 1". 2) String 1 crystal on each head pin. 3) Use the round-nose pliers to make a loop on each head pin. Set aside.

mod metal and crystal pendant

4) Use the round-nose pliers to make a triple loop on one end of the 18-gauge wire. 5) String 2 crimp tubes, the 1" head pin, 1 crimp tube, the 1¼" head pin, 1 crimp tube, etc., until you get to the longest head pin. Continue stringing in longest to shortest order. 6) Use the round-nose pliers to make a triple loop at the other end of the 18-gauge wire to secure all items just strung. Trim any excess wire. !

MATERIALS 13 violet 4mm crystal bicones 13 silver 3" head pins 3" silver 18-gauge wire 16 silver 2mm crimp tubes

TOOLS Round-nose pliers Wire cutters

FINISHED SIZE: 7 1 ⁄ 2 " TECHNIQUE

RESOURCES

:: wireworking

Check your local bead shop or contact: Similar materials: Fire Mountain Gems

See p. 21 for helpful technique information.

and Beads, (800) 355-2137, www.firemountaingems.com.

Design by Jean Campbell. More wonderful beadwork projects are available at interweavestore.com. © 2011 Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. page 1

project

A cuff-like bracelet that’s not only pure joy to make, but to wear!

garden gate

TECHNIQUES :: peyote stitch :: fringe



If you’ve got beads like I’ve got beads, you might as well flaunt them. And this bracelet flaunts them! First come up with a range of colors—I went with a late summer/early fall palette. Look at landscapes in nature photography if you need help with color. Then, using the palette you’ve chosen, pick beads with a garden theme: various leaves, vines, flowers, etc. The main thing is to think lush variegation.

MATERIALS Size 6° multicolored seed beads Size 11° seed beads in a single color Assortment of leaf, flower, and other beads 16 round 6mm beads Size B beading thread in color to complement beads Clasp

TOOLS

LADDER BASE 1) Using 1 yard of thread and size 11° seed beads, make a piece of flat peyote-stitched fabric 8 beads wide by 14 beads tall. 2) Roll the peyote-stitched rectangle into a tube width-wise so that the beads last worked interlock with the beads from the first row. Sew the beads together like a zipper. 3) Repeat Steps 1 and 2 seven times so that you have 8 peyote tubes. 4) Anchor 1 yard of thread in one of the second-from-the-end beads of a peyote tube. *String 13 size 6° beads. String another peyote tube in the same place you exited the last one. Pass right through the tube, exiting at the opposite side. Repeat from * to string all the tubes. Note: If you would like to lengthen or shorten the bracelet, add or subtract the number of size 6°s between rungs. 5) Weave your thread up two beads on the last peyote tube.*String 13 size 6°s. Pass through the next tube, exiting at the opposite side. Repeat from * to connect all the tubes.

Continue repeating this step until you have 4 rungs of size 6° beads connecting all 8 tubes (Fig. 1).

Size 12 beading needle Scissors Size 13 and 15 English beading needles

EMBELLISHING 6) Anchor 1 yard of thread at the beginning of the top rung. Pass through the first size 6° and string a short combination of beads to create a fringe. You could choose 1 size 11°, 1 leaf or flower bead, 1 size 11°, and then pass back through the leaf bead and first size 11°; or 3 size 11° in one color, 3 in another color, and pass back through the first 3 size 11°s. The combinations are endless—just keep the fringe short. Continue across the rung, passing through each size 6° and making a short fringe, until all four rungs are filled with fringe. 7) Anchor 1 yard of thread at the end of one of the end tubes. Exit toward the hole in the tube and out the end. String one 6mm and 1 size 11°. Pass back through the 6mm and down the hole, through the length of the tube. Exit from the other end of the tube. String one 6mm and 1 size 11°. Pass back through the 6mm and down the hole. Pass back into the 6mm and size 11° on the other end of the tube. Continue going back and forth as many times as possible to strengthen. Weave through one of the rungs to get to the next tube. Repeat this step until all the tubes have 6mm beads added to their ends. 8) Sew on the clasp to the first and last rungs. ! RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact:

FINISHED SIZE: 15¾"

Similar materials: Fire Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2137, www.firemountaingems.com.

Fig. 1: Connecting the tubes

More wonderful beadwork projects are available at interweavestore.com. © 2011 Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. page 3

project

TECHNIQUES :: wireworking :: stringing


ancient earrings

The Etruscans owed much of their power and wealth to their skill in ironworking. The coils in ancient Etruscan metalwork inspired the shapes in these earrings. The Etruscan coils make for a challenging first project for those just venturing out with wire.


project

⁄4"

3

ancient earrings

Fig. 1: Forming the spirals

1) Fold a 10" length of wire in half. Work each end into a spiral until the middle bend hangs down ¾" from the spirals (Fig.1). Fold the middle bend up on itself so that it’s even with the other side of the spirals (Fig. 2).

Fig. 2: Folding up the center

MATERIALS 14 sterling silver 3x5mm tubes 26 round 3mm turquoise beads 2 flat oval 16x20mm turquoise beads 10 sterling silver 4mm jump rings 8 sterling silver 1" head pins 2 sterling silver 3" head pins 2 sterling silver ear hoops with 5 connector loops 20" of 20-gauge silver wire

2) String 1 round, 1 silver tube, and 1 round on a 1" head pin and create a wrapped loop to secure the beads. Repeat this step to make 3 more dangles. 3) Use jump rings to connect the dangles to all but the middle loop of a hoop. 4) Use the round-nose pliers to bend the end of a 3" head pin. Open the loop, add the spiral, and close the loop. 5) String 1 round, 1 silver tube, 1 round, 1 flat oval, 1 round, 1 silver tube, 1 round, 1 silver tube, and 1 round. Secure the head pin with a wrapped loop. Use a jump ring to connect this dangle to the center loop of the hoop (Fig. 3). 6) Repeat all steps for the other earring. !

TOOLS Round-nose pliers Flat-nose pliers Wire cutters

ARTIST’S TIP

FINISHED SIZE: 3"

RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Silver tubes: Singaraja Imports, (800) 865-8856.

Making exact duplicates of the spirals for each earring takes practice. Just keep trying until you have two that look more or less the same— sterling silver wire has enough “give” to tolerate multiple readjustments.


Fig. 3: Assembling the earring

project

This princess necklace project not only gives you a chance to stitch beads together to make a beaded bead, you get to string them, too. Brilliant!

glamour girl necklace TECHNIQUES :: right-angle weave :: stringing :: crimping



BEADED BEAD 1) Use 3' of thread to string 1 rose, 1 vitrial, 1 rose, and 1 vitrial. Pass through all the beads again to make a square and exit from the first rose strung. Note: Use tight tension throughout. 2) String 1 vitrial, 1 rose, and 1 vitrial. Pass down through the rose you just exited, through the first vitrial just strung, and up through the rose just strung. 3) String 1 vitrial, 1 rose, and 1 vitrial. Pass up through the rose you just exited, through the first vitrial just strung, and down through the rose. 4) String 1 vitrial. Pass up through the first rose strung in Step 1. String 1 vitrial and pass down through the last rose strung in Step 3 and through the first vitrial just strung (Fig. 1). 5) Work another round of right-angle weave off the round you made in Steps 1–4. Begin by stringing 1 vitrial,

one 6mm amethyst, and 1 vitrial; pass through the last vitrial strung in Step 4 and the first vitrial just strung. Continue around, stringing 1 vitrial and one 6mm amethyst in each stitch. Connect the ends of the round as in Step 4 and exit from a 6mm amethyst (Fig. 2). 6) Work a third round using all vitrial bicones (Fig. 3). Exit from the second vitrial strung in this step and pass through the 4 outermost vitrial to secure the bottom of the beaded bead (Fig. 4). 7) Weave through all the beads in Steps 1–6 again until the bead holes are full and the beaded bead is rock hard. Trim the thread. Use the marker to color any unsightly thread. Set the beaded bead aside.

20 vitrial, the top hole of a spacer, 6 vitrial, the top hole of a second spacer, 6 vitrial, and the top hole of a third spacer. Separate the two wires and use one of these wires to string 9 vitrial, one 8mm amethyst, and 9 vitrial. Use the other wire to string 11 vitrial, one 8mm amethyst, and 11 vitrial. Use both wires to string the top hole of a fourth spacer, 6 vitrial, the top hole of a fifth spacer, 6 vitrial, the top hole of a sixth spacer, and 20 vitrial. Use a bead stop to secure the wire ends. Pair two additional wires and clip them together at one end using a bead stop. Use both wires to string 20 vitrial and the bottom hole of the first spacer strung in Step 2. String 6 vitrial, the second spacer, 6 vitrial, and the third spacer.

STRINGING 8): Cut five 16" lengths of beading wire. 9): Pair two of the wires and join them together at one end using a bead stop. Use both wires together to string

Separate the two wires and use one of these wires to string 13 vitrial, one 8mm amethyst, and 13 vitrial. Pair this wire with the fifth length of wire cut in Step 1. Pass both wires through the second hole of the fourth spacer, string

MATERIALS 251 vitrial 4mm crystal bicones 4 amethyst 6mm crystal rounds 4 amethyst 8mm crystal rounds 5 rose AB2X 7mm crystal bicones 6 rose 10mm 2-hole spacers Sterling silver 2-strand box clasp with amethyst inset 5 sterling silver 2mm crimp tubes 80" of .014 beading wire Moss green beading thread

Fig. 1: Connecting the bicones with right-angle weave

Fig. 2: Adding crystal rounds

TOOLS Scissors Big Eye needle Wire cutters Crimping pliers Pink or purple permanent marker Bead stop

FINISHED SIZE: 18"

Fig. 4: Securing the bottom of the beaded bead

Fig. 3: Working a third round


6 vitrial, the fifth spacer, 6 vitrial, the sixth spacer, and 20 vitrial (Fig. 5). Use a bead stop to secure the wire ends. 10) There should now be two loose wires hanging from opposite spacers at the bottom of the necklace. String 18 vitrial on each. Use both wires to string one 8mm amethyst, the beaded bead, 1 rose, 1 vitrial, and 1 crimp tube. Snug the beads, crimp the tube, and trim.

11): Hold the piece against your neck to check for length, adding 1" to account for the width of the clasp, then add or subtract vitrial bicones at each end to adjust. String 1 crimp tube on each set of paired wires (you’ll be stringing 4 crimp tubes for the 8 wires). Pass through the clasp loops and back through the tubes, crimp, and trim. !

RESOURCES Check your local bead shop for any of these materials or contact: Clasp: Star’s Clasps, (800) 207-2805, www.starsclasps.com. Spacers and PowerPro beading thread: The Bead Monkey, (952) 929-4032, www.thebeadmonkey.com.

wire 1

wire 2 wire 4

wire 3 wire 5

Fig. 5: Assembling the necklace


project

This bracelet celebrates the trio of women in my family. Because the photographs are so subtle, they will probably just look like small, organic patterns from far away, but I know I'm surrounded by the women who love me when I wear it.

sassy sisters bracelet

TECHNIQUES :: peyote stitch :: ladder stitch :: brick stitch



1) PHOTOGRAPHS. Choose one of the buttons or charms on which you’d like to add a photograph and place it facedown on the photograph; trace around it with a pencil. Trim the photograph on the pencil marks. Repeat for all the buttons/ charms and photographs. Use the thread burner (or lighter) to carefully singe the edges of the photographs to soften the scissors line. Set aside. 2) CENTER SQUARE. Use 3' of thread to string 6B and pass down through a hole at one of the corners of the square. String 5B and, leaving a 3" tail, tie a square knot with the working and tail threads. Pass through all 11B again. String 1 wooden bead and 6B; pass down through the hole on the square right next to the one you last worked (Fig. 1). String 5B and pass through the 6B and the 5B just strung to form a loop. Pull snug and pass through the wooden bead (Fig. 2). 3) BASE. Work odd-count peyote stitch off the wooden bead: Rows 1–3: String 3C; pass through the wooden bead and the 3C again. String 1C and pass back through the second and first beads. String 1C and pass through the second, third, and fourth beads so that you exit toward the center of the beadwork (Fig. 3).

Rows 4–6: Work odd-count flat peyote

MATERIALS

stitch, 3 beads across. Rows 7–10: Work 2C in the middle stitch. Rows 11–14: Continue working 3 beads

across. Row 15: String 1 wooden bead and pass

through the last two peyote-stitch rows worked; pass through the beads again to reinforce. There will be exposed thread on either side of the wooden bead, which will be covered when you work the edging (Fig. 4). 4) Repeat Step 3 twice, then work Rows 1–4 after the last wooden bead. 5) TOGGLE. Exit from the center of the last row and use plum seed beads to work a row of ladder stitch 2 beads high and 6 beads long. String the 19mm button and pass through the last ladder stitch. Pass through the button and ladder at least twice more. Continue passing through the ladder-stitched beads to firmly reinforce it. 6) EDGING. Anchor a new thread at the base of the ladder. String 2A and pass through 1C and the 2A again to exit at the edge of the bracelet. String 2A; pass under the first loop of thread and back through the second bead. String 1A, pass under the next loop and back through the bead just strung. Continue this edging of brick stitch down one

5 g plum size 11° Japanese seed beads (A) 5 g matte gunmetal size 11° Japanese seed beads (B) 5 g blue/purple gunmetal size 8° triangle beads (C) 8 red 5mm wooden rounds 7 ivory 6mm freshwater pearls 1 tagua nut 26mm perforated square 1 mother-of-pearl 19mm 2-hole button Assorted 10–15mm buttons Assorted charms, found objects, and other sentimental items Photographs printed to fit on buttons 6 lb braided beading thread White glue Mod Podge or other clear-coat sealer

TOOLS Beading needle Pencil Scissors Thread burner (or a lighter)

FINISHED SIZE: 7"

side of the base. When you come to the wooden beads, work the brick stitches off the exposed threads. Once you reach the square, pass through beads to work the other side of the base toward the button (Fig. 5).

Fig. 3: Adding Rows 1–3

Fig. 1: Adding

Fig. 5: Adding the edging

Fig. 2: Finishing the wood-bead connection

Fig. 4: Working Row 15

the wood bead


7) SECOND BASE. Repeat Steps 2–6 to make the other half of the base off the opposite corner of the square. 8) LOOP. Exit the center of the last row and use plum seed beads to work a row of ladder stitch 2 beads high and 8 beads long. Fold the ladder in half and stitch the end of it to the last triangle you exited. Weave through the beads several times to create a tight cord, then stitch triangle beads to the sides to cover the thread (Fig. 6). 9) Exiting from the folded end of the ladder cord, string 30A (or enough to accommodate the button) and pass through the end of the ladder again to form a loop. Exit from the next pair of beads in the ladder and string another 30A to form a second loop. Pass through beads of both loops to peyote-stitch them securely together

Fig. 6: Forming the base of the loop

Fig. 8: Adding embellishments

Fig. 7: Creating the loop

(Fig. 7).

10) EMBELLISHMENTS. Secure a new thread before the last wood bead at one end of the base. Use seed-bead loops to attach buttons, found objects, and charms (Fig. 8). Make short fringe with the pearls by stringing 1 seed bead, 1 pearl, and 1–3 seed or triangle beads, and passing back through the pearl and first seed bead and into the base. (Place a pearl under any object that is not lying the way you’d like, to help prop it up.) Work all the way up

to the square, adding as many embellishments as you desire, then repeat for the other half of the base. Anchor a thread to the center of the perforated square and make an embellishment there as desired. 11) FINISHING. Examine the entire bracelet and carefully melt away any thread ends, then glue the photographs to the buttons and allow to dry thoroughly before applying a coat of sealer. !

RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Seed beads: The Bead Monkey, (952) 929-4032 or (651) 222-7729, www.beadmonkey.com. Tagua nut square: On The Surface, [email protected], www.onsurface.com.


detail

project

Evoking a spalike feel, these earrings speak “serenity.” But change the ring to read “love,” pair it with ruby crystals, and it’s infused with a completely different look and spirit.

serenity earrings TECHNIQUES :: wireworking :: right-angle weave



BEADED BEAD 1): Use 3' of thread to string one 8mm crystal, 5 seed beads, one 2mm round, and 5 seed beads. Pass through the 8mm crystal again, snugging the beads around the crystal. Pass through all the beads again to secure (Fig. 1). Repeat three times, positioning the beads so that you have two strands on opposite sides of the crystal. 2):Pass through beads to exit from a 2mm round, string one 2mm round and pass up through the 2mm round on the adjacent strand. String one 2mm round and pass down through the 2mm round on the initial strand to complete a rightangle-weave unit; pass through the four 2mm rounds again to secure (Fig. 2). Weave through beads to reach the strands on the other side of the crystal and repeat to form a second unit. 3):Pass through beads to exit from one of the seed beads at the top of the crystal. String one 3mm round and pass through the opposite seed bead, so that the 3mm round covers the hole of the crystal. Continue passing through the strand of beads and add a 3mm round to cover the bottom hole of the crystal. Pass through a strand of beads to exit

the first 3mm round. String 7 seed beads and pass through the 3mm round to form a loop. Pass through the loop again to reinforce, then repeat to add a 7 seed-bead loop to the opposite 3mm round (Fig. 3). Weave through all of the beads surrounding the crystal to reinforce, trim close, and set aside. EARRINGS 4):Use an eye pin to string 1 bicone and form a simple loop that attaches to an ear wire. Use a head pin to string one 3mm round, 1 glass rondelle, and one 3mm round and form a simple loop. Use an oval jump ring to string the glass dangle, the eye of the beaded link, and 1 message ring; close the ring. 5) Connect 3 oval jump rings, attaching the first jump ring to the message ring, and the third jump ring to the seedbead loop at one end of the beaded bead. Use a head pin to string 1 bicone and form a simple loop that attaches to the end of a 3-link chain. Use a round jump ring to connect the other end of the chain to the other seed bead loop.

MATERIALS 2 g white matte size 14° seed beads 4 Pacific opal 4mm crystal bicones 2 Pacific opal 8mm crystal rounds 2 light blue12x8mm recycled glass faceted rondelles 16 sterling silver 2mm rounds 8 sterling silver 3mm rounds 2 sterling silver 22mm message rings 2 sterling silver 22-gauge eye pins 4 sterling silver 22-gauge head pins 2 sterling silver 4mm round jump rings 8 sterling silver 18-gauge 5x7mm oval jump rings ¾" sterling silver 4mm heavy cable chain 2 sterling silver French ear wires White beading thread

TOOLS Beading needle Scissors Chain-nose pliers Wire cutters Round-nose pliers

FINISHED SIZE: 6¼"

6) Repeat Steps 1–5 for a second earring. !

Fig. 3: Adding loops

Fig. 2: Working the right-angle-weave unit Fig. 1: Adding the first set of beads RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Metal beads, Swarovski crystals, message rings, chain, and findings: Fire Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2137, www.firemountaingems.com.


project

sjournee flower Named after one of my daughter's friends, this sculptural peyote-stitched flower is pretty and versatile. Personalize your design by using your favorite button, This piece, inspired by a chain, crystal, and stone Victorian beaded-flower form rondelles. created with “lacy stitch” (or netting), celebrates form, dimension, and beadwork history.

TECHNIQUES :: netting :: peyote stitch :: picot



1) PETAL. Use 2' of thread, seed beads, 1 rondelle, and very tight tension to form a sculptural petal with peyote and square stitches: Rows 1 and 2: String 5A, leaving a 4" tail. Row 3: Peyote-stitch 1A in each stitch for a total of 3A. Tie a knot with the working and tail threads to hold the beads in place (Fig. 1). Row 4: Peyote-stitch 2A in each stitch for a total of 4A (Fig. 2). Row 5: Peyote-stitch 1A, 1B, 1B, 1B, and 1A. Make the step up for the next and subsequent even rows by looping the thread under the exposed thread at the edge of the beadwork; pass back through the last bead strung (Fig. 3). Row 6: Peyote-stitch 1A, 1B, 1B, and 1A. Row 7: Peyote-stitch 1A and 1B. Weave through the next stitch from the previous row to skip a stitch. Peyote-stitch 1B and 1A (Fig. 4). Row 8: Peyote-stitch 1B. Square-stitch 1C to the next Row 6 B. String 1 rondelle. Square-stitch 1C to the next Row 6 B. Pass through the next Row 7 B. Peyote-stitch 1B (Fig. 5). Row 9: Peyote-stitch 1A. String 1B; pass through the next 1C/rondelle/1C from Row 8. Peyote-stitch 1B and 1A. Row 10: Peyote-stitch 1B. String 1C; pass through the rondelle. Peyote-stitch 1C and 1B (Fig. 6). Row 11: Peyote-stitch 1A and 1B. Pass through the nearest Row 10 C, the rondelle, and the next Row 10 C. Peyote-stitch 1B and 1A. Row 12: Peyote-stitch 1B. String 1C; pass through the rondelle. Peyote-stitch 1C and 1B (Fig. 7). Row 13: Peyote-stitch 1A, 1B, 2C, 1B, and 1A. Row 14: Peyote-stitch 1A and 1C. Pass through 2C from Row 13. Peyote-stitch 1C and 1A (Fig. 8). Row 15: Work a hidden decrease at the beginning of the row. Peyote-stitch 1A, 2C, and 1A. Row 16: Work a hidden decrease at the beginning of the row (Fig. 9a). Peyote-

Fig. 1: Tying a knot to secure Rows 1–3

Fig. 2: Working the Row 4 increases

Fig. 6: Working around the rondelle in Rows 9 and 10

Fig. 3: Completing Row 5 and the step up

Fig. 7: Working around the rondelle in Rows 11 and 12

Fig. 4: Skipping a stitch midrow in Row 7

Fig. 8: Row 13 (indicated in green); Row 14 (indicated in blue); Row 15 (indicated in red)

b Fig. 5: Working square and peyote stitches in Row 8

stitch 1A. Pass through 2C from Row 15. Peyote-stitch 1A. Row 17: Work a hidden decrease at the beginning of the row. Peyote-stitch 2C. Row 18: Work a hidden decrease at the beginning of the row. Pass through the nearest Row 17 C. String 1C and pass through the next 1C of the previous row (Fig. 9b). Secure the working thread and trim; do not cut the tail thread. Set aside. Repeat entire step four times for a total of 5 petals. 2) FLOWER CENTER. Use the tail threads to work decreasing circularpeyote stitch, connecting the petals: Round 1: String 1A, pass through the Row 1

edge bead of a second petal, holding the

a

Fig. 9: Row 16 (indicated in blue); Rows 17 and 18 (indicated in red)

petals so they curl in the same direction; weave through Rows 1 and 2 of the cond petal. Repeat to connect all 5 petals in a circle, adding a total of 5A. Step up for the next round by passing through the first Row 1 bead of the second petal (Fig. 10). Note: If you run out of thread, secure it and begin working with another tail thread. Round 2: Work 2 peyote stitches with 1A in each. Work a decrease by passing through the next 2A of Row1 in the petals. Repeat around for a total of 10A. Step up for the next and subsequent rounds by passing through the first bead added in this round (Fig. 11).


Round 3: Peyote-stitch 1A in each stitch

for a total of 10A. Step up as before (Fig. 12). Round 4: Repeat Round 3. Round 5: String 1A; pass through the next 2A from Round 4. Repeat to add a total of 5A. Round 6: Peyote-stitch 1A in each stitch for a total of 5A. Weave through the final round again to reinforce. Secure the remaining threads and trim; leave at least one tail thread intact. Button: Sew the button to the seed beads at the center of the flower, keeping the thread hidden within the beads. Secure the thread and trim. Set the flower aside. 3) CHAIN. Tie the end of 3' of thread to an end chain link using several overhand knots. String {3A, 1C, 4B, and 1C} twice. Pass down through the nearest chain link and up through the next. Repeat for the length of the chain, weaving the seed-bead strand through the chain links. Pass back through all the seed beads to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim.

4) DANGLES. Use 1 head pin to string 1 bicone; form a simple loop. Repeat twenty times using the remaining bicone and round crystals and the amethyst coin for a total of 14 bicone dangles, 6 round dangles, and 1 coin dangle. 5) ASSEMBLY. Start 1' of new thread that exits the tip of the upper-right petal of the flower. Center the flower on the chain and sew the tip to the chain’s seed-bead strand. Weave through the seed-bead strand to exit near the center back of the flower; sew the petal to the seed-bead strand as before. Weave through the seedbead strand to exit near the tip of the petal’s upper-left petal and sew the petal to the chain. Opening and closing the simple loops as you would jump rings, attach 3 round and 7 bicone dangles to the chain links on each side of the flower. Use 1 jump ring to attach the lobster clasp to one free end of the chain; use 1 jump ring to attach the amethyst dangle to the other end of the chain. !

ARTIST’S TIP t6TFWFSZUJHIUUFOTJPOBTZPV stitch the petals, allowing the beadwork to curve over your thumb as you work. t5SZVOFYQFDUFECVUUPOBOE seed-bead color combinations—you may happen upon a beautiful surprise. t.BLFTFWFSBMýPXFSTBOE stitch their tips together to create an ornate necklace or bracelet.

Fig. 12: Round 3

Fig. 10: Joining the petals in Round 1

RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Seed beads: Beyond Beadery, (800) 840-5548, www.beyondbeadery.com. Stones: Dakota Stones, (866) 871-1990, www.dakotastones.com. Chain and clasp: The Bead Monkey, (952) 929-4032,

Fig. 11: Making decreases in Round 2

www.thebeadmonkey.com. Head pins: Ornamentea, (919) 834-6260, www.ornamentea.com. Swarovski crystals: Fire Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2137, www.firemountaingems.com.


project

golden oak After the metallized oak leaf that I bought in Tucson broke in my suitcase on the way home, I decided to design one of my own using seed beads. The leaf is flanked by acorns created with crystal-pearl drops and peyote-st itched caps to create a nature-inspired necklace that rightly welcomes autumn.

TECHNIQUES :: circular, tubular, and free-form peyote stitch :: wireworking



1) BEAD CAPS. Use 1' of thread and A to work circular and tubular peyote stitch, creating a bead cap: Round 1: String 6A, leaving a short tail. Tie a knot to form a tight circle. Round 2: String 1A; pass through the next 1A of the previous round. Repeat around to add a total of 6A. Step up at the end of this and the following rounds by passing through the first bead added. Round 3: Repeat Round 2. Round 4: String 2A; pass through the next 1A of the previous round. Repeat to add a total of 12A. Rounds 5–7: String 1A; pass through the next 1A of the previous round. Repeat to add 1A between each A for a total of 12A (Fig. 1).

Weave through beads to repeat the thread path for Round 7 only, pulling tight with each stitch. This will tighten and cup the beadwork. Secure the thread and trim. Set aside. Repeat entire step six times for a total of 7 bead caps. 2) ACORN LINK. Place a bead stop 2" from the end of 10" of thread. String 1 bicone, 1 bead cap ( from outside to inside), 1 bright gold pearl (large end first), and 8B. Pass back through the pearl, cap, and bicone, pulling tight to form a seed-bead loop. String 8B; pass through the bicone, cap, pearl, and seed-bead loop. Pass back through the pearl, cap, and bicone. Remove the bead stop and tie a square knot with the tail and working threads (Fig. 2). Repeat the thread path as many times as possible reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. Set aside.

Repeat entire step three times using bright gold and antique brass pearls for a total of 2 bright-gold-acorn links and 2 antique-brass-acorn links.

3) LEAF BASE. Place a bead stop 2" from the end of 3' of thread. Use size 15°s and free-form peyote stitch to create the base of the leaf.

Note: All the following bead counts are approximate since you’ll be working free-form. Center vein: String 54C. Pass back

through the fortieth C just added to form the bottom loop. Right-side loops: String 32C; pass back through the thirtieth center-vein C to form a loop along the side. String 38C; pass back through the twentieth center-vein C. String 28C; pass back through the tenth center-vein C. String 16C; pass back through the first center-vein C (Fig. 3). Remove the bead stop and tie a knot with the working and tail threads. String 1B and pass through the first center-vein C. Left-side loops: String an even number of C to closely (but not exactly) match the last loop created on the right side. Pass through the ninth or eleventh center-vein C. Repeat to create a series of 4 loops down the left side of the center vein, always passing through the C before or after the place

MATERIALS 5 g matte bronze size 15° seed beads (A) 1 g gold-lined clear size 15° seed beads (B) 3 g metallic forest green size 15° seed beads (C) 7 mocca AB 3mm crystal bicones 2 bright gold 8×11mm crystal pearl drops 2 antique brass 8×11mm crystal pearl drops 3 Bordeaux 8×11mm crystal pearl drops 1 gold-filled or brass 2" head pin 2 brass 5×6mm oval jump rings 1 gold-filled or brass 6×12mm lobster clasp 11" of brass 7×9mm textured oval curb chain with unsoldered links Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread

TOOLS Scissors Size 12 beading needle Bead stop Wire cutters Round-nose pliers Chain- or flat-nose pliers

FINISHED SIZE: 16" (EXPANDABLE TO 17")

Fig. 1: Working a bead cap

Fig. 3: Adding the right-side loops

Fig. 2: Assembling an acorn link


EDITOR’S TIP

where the right-side loops attach. Exit from the third C of the bottom loop. 4) LEAF EDGE. String 1C, skip the next C of the bottom loop, and pass through the following C. Repeat to peyote-stitch the entire loop until you exit the second-to-last C of the loop. Pass through the nearest C of the next right-side loop.

If you don’t have chain with unsoldered links, use thick brass jump rings that coordinate with the chain to join the links in Step 8. to keep the work from buckling too much. Step up.

Repeat peyote-stitching with 1C in each stitch until you reach the point where the current loop touches the next (about 9 stitches). Pass through the nearest C of the next right-side loop and continue adding a peyote-stitched edge as before to the perimeter of the leaf (Fig. 4). Exit from the first down bead in the center of the bottom loop.

Note: Don’t worry about asymmetry with the decreases—it adds to the character of the leaf.

5) CIRCLES. Work rounds of circular peyote stitch inside each loop of the leaf ’s base using A and B beads: Round 1: String 1A and pass through the next down bead of the bottom loop. Repeat around the circle, picking up beads at the top of the circle to complete the round. Step up for the next round by passing through the first A added (Fig. 5). Round 2: Use 1A in each stitch to work the round, decreasing as desired

Repeat entire step seven times to fill each of the 8 remaining loops with circular peyote stitch. Each loop will require a different number of rounds, depending on the size of the loop and how h you’d like the final leaf to appear. You can fill in the circle fully or leave a hole in the center. If desired, use A instead of B, working the final round on one of the small loops. The beadwork will kink and buckle, which is desired to give the leaf a more natural look.

Round 3: Use 1B in each stitch to work the

round, decreasing as necessary to keep the work fairly flat. Weave through all B beads again to close the circle (Fig. 6). Weave through beads to exit from a down bead in the next loop.

Fig. 5: Working Round 1 of the bottom circle

Fig. 4: Peyote-stitching along the loops

Fig. 8: Making an acorn connector

Fig. 6: Finishing the circle with B beads

Fig. 7: Adding

UIFSVGýFEFEHF


6) RUFFLED EDGE. Start 3' of new thread that exits from an up bead (1C) at the top-left side of the leaf. String 2B and pass through the next 1C. Repeat around the outside of the leaf to create a slightly ruffled edge (Fig. 7). Exit from the 1B at the top of the center vein. 7) ACORN CONNECTORS. String 1 Bordeaux pearl (small end first), 1 bead cap ( from inside to outside), the bicone, cap, pearl, and 1B on the leaf Weave through leaf beads so you can connection (Fig. 8). Secure the thread and trim.

Start 8" of new thread that exits from 1B at the join of the leaf ’s edge between the third and fourth loops on the leaf ’s left side. Make another acorn connector as before. 8) ASSEMBLY. Finish the necklace with the acorn links, a dangle, and chain: Acorn links: Detach 4 links from the chain, opening and closing them

as you would jump rings. Use 1 chain link to attach the bead-cap side of 1 bright-gold-acorn link to the loop of one of the acorn connectors. Use another chain link to attach the other side of the previous link to the pearl side of 1 antique-brass-acorn link. Repeat using the remaining acorn connector on the other side of the leaf. Acorn dangle: Use the head pin to string 1 Bordeaux pearl (large end first), 1 bead cap ( from inside to outside), and 1 bicone; form a wrapped loop . Chain: Open the end link on one 3¾" piece of chain and attach it to the free loop of the antique-brassacorn loop on the right side of the necklace. Use 1 jump ring to attach the clasp to the other end of the chain. Repeat on the other side of the necklace, using 5¾" of chain and the remaining jump ring to attach the acorn dangle to the free end of the chain. !

ARTIST’S TIPS tBecause

the bead caps use all the same color for each round, it’s easy to miss the step up. One trick is to set out the number of beads you need for each round before you begin. When you’ve stitched the last bead in a round, you know it’s time to step up.

tJean

chose an autumnthemed colorway for this necklace, but any pleasing colorway will work—think of spring and summer.

RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Seed beads and Swarovski crystal bicones and pearls: FusionBeads.com, (888) 781-3559. Chain: Michaels, (800) 642-4235, www.michaels.com. Findings and FireLine braided beading thread: The Bead Monkey, (952) 929-4032, www.thebeadmonkey.com.


techniques RIGHT-ANGLE WEAVE (Single Needle)

RIGHT-ANGLE WEAVE (Double Needle)

PICOT

String 4 beads and pass through them again to form the first unit. For the rest of the row, string 3 beads, pass through the last bead passed through in the previous unit, and the first two just strung; the thread path will resemble a figure-eight, alternating directions with each unit. To begin the next row, pass through the last 3 beads strung to exit the side of the last unit. String 3 beads, pass through the last bead passed through, and the first bead just strung. *String 2 beads, pass through the next edge bead of the previous row, the last bead passed through in the previous unit, and the last 2 beads just strung. Pass through the next edge bead of the previous row, string 2 beads, pass through the last bead of the previous unit, the edge bead just passed through, a n d t h e f i r st bead just strung. Repeat from * to complete the row then begin a new row as before.

Using one needle on each end of the thread, string 3 beads to the center of the thread.*Use one needle to string 1 bead, then pass the other needle back through it. String 1 bead on each needle, then repeat from * to form a chain of right-angle units (A). To turn at the end of the row, use the left needle to string 3 beads, then cross the right needle back through the last bead strung (B). Use the right needle to string 3 beads, then cross the left needle back through the last bead strung (C). To continue the row, use the right needle to string 2 beads; pass the left needle through the next bead on the previous row and back through the last bead strung (D).

To make a picot, string three (A) or five (B) beads and weave into the next high bead. This sequence is woven into the gaps of edge beading to create a lacey effect and is sometimes used to transition to decreasing stitches.

Tie off your old thread when it’s about 4" long by making a simple knot between beads. Pass through a few beads and pull tight to hide the knot. Weave through a few more beads and trim the thread close to the work. Start the new thread by tying a knot between beads and weaving through a few beads. Pull tight to hide the knot. Weave through several beads until you reach the place to resume beading.

LADDER STITCH

Using two needles, one threaded on each end of the thread, pass one needle through one or more beads from left to right and pass the other needle through the same beads from right to left. Continue adding beads by crisscrossing both needles through one bead at a time. Use this stitch to make strings of beads or as the foundation for brick stitch.

B

A

D

F I N I S H I N G A N D S TA R T I N G NEW THREADS

B

Start

FRINGE

Exit from your foundat i o n row of b e a d s o r fabric. String a length of beads plus 1 bead. Skipping the last bead, pass b a c k t h ro u g h a l l t h e beads just strung to create a fringe leg. Pass back into the foundation row or fabric.

A

C

N E T T I N G (Single Thread)

Begin by stringing a base row of 13 beads. String 5 beads and go back through the fifth bead from the end of the base row. String another 5 beads, skip 3 beads of the base row, and go back through the next; repeat to the end of the row. To turn, pass back through the last 3 beads (one leg of the last net). String 5 beads, pass back through the center bead of the next net and continue.

For a single-needle ladder, string 2 beads and pass through them again. String 1 bead. Pass through the last stitched bead and the one just strung. Repeat, adding one bead at a time and working in a figure-eight pattern.

STRINGING

Stringing is a technique in which you use beading wire, needle and thread, or other material to gather beads into a strand.

CRIMPING

String a crimp tube and pass through the connection finding. Pass back through the tube, leaving a short tail. Use the back notch of a crimping pliers to pinch the tube into a U, leaving a wire on each side of the bend. Rotate the tube 90° and use the front notch to form the pinched tube into a clean cylinder.


techniques PEYOTE STITCH

WIREWORKING

To make a simple loop, grasp one end of the wire with round-awire with one hand, gently turn the pliers until the wire end and wire body touch. Create a 90° reverse bend where they meet. One-drop flat peyote stitch begins by stringing an even number of beads to create the first two rows. Begin the third row by stringing 1 bead and passing back through the second-to-last bead of the previous row. String another bead and pass back through the fourth-to-last bead of the previous row. Continue adding 1 bead at a time, passing over every other bead of the previous row.

Two-drop flat peyote stitch is worked the same as above, but with 2 beads at a time instead of 1.

Make a mid-project peyote-stitch increase by working a two-drop over a one-drop in one row. In the next row, work a one-drop peyote stitch between the twodrop. For a smooth increase, use very narrow beads for both the two-drop and the one-drop between.

To make a mid-project peyote-stitch decrease, simply pass the thread through 2 beads without adding a bead in the “gap." In the next row, work a regular one-drop peyote stitch over the decrease. Keep tension taut to avoid holes.

For circular peyote stitch, string 3 beads and form the first round by passing through the first bead. For the second round, string 2 beads and pass through the next bead of the previous round; repeat twice. To step up to the third round, pass through the first bead of the current round. For the third round, string 1 bead and pass through the next bead of the previous round; repeat all around, then step up at the end of the round. Continue in this manner, alternating the two previous rounds. You may need to adjust the bead count depending on the relative size of the beads in order to keep the circle flat.

For a wire-wrapped loop, cut the desired length of wire and make a 90° bend 2" from one end. Use round-nose pliers to hold the wire near the angle and bend the short end up and around the pliers until it meets itself. Wrap the wire tightly down the neck of the wire to create a couple of coils. Trim the excess to finish. BRICK STITCH

Begin by creating a foundation row in ladder stitch. String 2 beads and pass under the closest exposed loop of the foundation row and back through the second bead. String 1 bead and pass under the next exposed loop and back through the bead just strung; repeat.

For tubular peyote stitch, string an even number of beads and make a foundation circle by passing through them two more times, exiting from the first bead strung. String 1 bead and pass through the third bead of the foundation circle. String 1 bead and pass through the fifth bead of the foundation circle. Continue adding 1 bead at a time, skipping over 1 bead of the first round, until you have added half the number of beads of the first round. Step up for the next round by exiting from the first bead of the second round. String 1 bead, pass through the second bead added in the second round, and pull thread tight. String 1 bead and pass through the third bead added in the second round. Continue around, filling in the “spaces" 1 bead at a time. Exit from the first bead added in each round.

To decrease within a row, string 1 bead and skip a loop of thread on the previous row, passing under the second loop and back through the bead.

To increase within a row, work two stitches in the same loop on the previous row. For circular brick stitch, work increases as needed to keep the work flat; at the end of each round, pass through the first and last beads to stitch them together, then string 2 beads to begin the next round.


best+of+beadwork+8+projects+by+designer+of+the+year+Jean+Campbell.pdf

Recommend Documents