THE FASHION FASHION MAGAZINE FOR PEOPLE WHO SEW!
CONSTRUCTION ELEMENTS –
Needles &
Threads
WHAT’S WHA T’S NEW IN
Lace
Inside this issue
Step-by-Step Photos AND
Illustrations!
FULL OF TIPS, TECHNIQUES, ADVICE AND IDEAS
CONTENTS – Vol 26 No 2
29 30
Regular Features 32 62 60 66
Behind the couture seams Book Reviews Final Word Next Issue
37 42 49 55
Latest Patterns – New Look Latest Fabric Trends By Martin & Savage Fabrics Latest Patterns – Vougue Latest Fabric Trends By Sckafs Latest Patterns – McCalls Latest Patterns – Burda
Trends 10 16 19 10
Wear What When 7 Private Indulgances By Eddi Frantz 44 The Multi taskers By Eddi Franz
Latest Fabric Trends By Knitwit Latest Patterns – Butterick Latest Patterns – Simplicity 32
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Fabric Fact File 50 What’s New in the World of Lace? By Kerryn Swan Get The Look Private Indulgences By Eddi Frantz Technically Speaking 24 Construction Elements – Needles & Threads By Alison Wheeler 38 Stretched Out of Shape By Judith Turner
43
Tailoring Secrets 34 Waistband Contouring Compiled by Lynn Cook 57 In-seam Pockets By Alison Wheeler Creative Ideas 21 The Oriental Panel By Vicki Taggart
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The latest in high fashion daywear, exclusive formal & bridal fabrics TRAIN STATION
PARK ING
BALCATTA
CITY
WALK WAY
R e id H i gh wa y
Wellington St
N T O S I T M A T A I S L L I N I A W R T
E S A H C T S E R R O F
Murray St Mall
Y A W K L A W
PERTH WALK WA Y Y A W K L A W
DAVID JONES
Upper level 200 Murray St 33-34 Forrest Chase (next door to Myer) Tel 9325 4992
M i c t h e ll F er e w
B al c at ta
R d
We ar e here
a y
www.fabulousfabrics.com.au
E r i n d B a u l e n n R d ni g s
BALCATTA
Unit 1 / 160 Balcatta Rd Balcatta Tel 9240 1453 76205
Get The Look By Eddi Frantz
Butterick B5963 wrap-andtie robe and nightgown with lace yoke at back. Pattern also includes top variations, pyjama pants and a drawstring pouch. Misses’ sizes: 6 – 22.
h e r e i s p l e n n g i h t , f o r t y o f f as h i o n o u t h o se p r w o rk , f o r p l a y … t t he r e f o r d a y , i v f o f ro n t d o at e m o m en t s w b ut w h at a bo u t r o h f o O f c ou r s r b eh i n d y o u a n e n y o u’ v e c lo se d r i n cr e as i n d a r e r e e, g l p re ci a d y t o r e t h e a l l t he h y o u s) t i m w e ’ re t al k in g a b o la x a e … o ut si d ss l e s o f t h e o u t s y o u t ak e f o r y o u t t h at s p e c ia l ( ? u r id a e m o m e n ! S o, i t s t an d s t o e w o r ld a re l e f t se l f a t h o me , w n d ts h w a b o ut c a , i n o r o u t o f b e r ea so n t h at w h a h e re t h e y b el o e re d , n g t p c o l o u r, t i ta l ‘ F ’ f as h i o n, o s h o ul d b e j us t y o u w e ar i n t ho h r i n t o a a s h as s l e -f re e . se i t i sn ’ t a b e ‘ l at e st ’ s il h o ue g e t ti n g T h is i sn ’ t iz z y a b o t te o r a n o t u t w e ’ l l g e t u t a n y th i n g ‘ o t i h t’ t o t h at o ‘ o n -t re n d ’ a t n -t re n d’ a cc e ss he ‘ r g h av e t o v o s l o p a ro e rl e af ). B u t, t h a a l l ( we ll , m a y b e r y . I n f ac t , u nd i n o t a ls o d o p r ec i o us a l i tt le … l d e t im s b u t s n w ’ t e e m a f o r y o u rs ts . I n f ac e a n t h a t y o e l f c t , w t h is s e as al ls f o r m o re t h e b e l ie v e t h at s u u a o ch d ar k c ho n , t h e re a re q u i n a f e w i n d u g l e n t c o la te , r e d w i n e e a f e w w a y s t o c e s … i n l e a nd g re a a lo n g t b o o k … d u g w it h t h at
FROM FRANKLY FEMININE ... 7
Get The Look
Sleepwear comes in many guises, from seductive little whispers of lace, silks, jerseys or satins, as in the robe and nightgown on the preceding page see more ultra-feminine lingerie looks , to clean-cut, comfortable shapes borrowed from his pyjamas. This season, they just want to have fun in
crisp, bright colours, novelty graphics or even in a happy mix of plaids, stripes and spots, all in striking black and white. That’s where the ‘trend’ bit comes in – with shapes as clean, classic and consistent as these, one can keep them from getting stale with a change of vibrant colour or print! … Why not even create your very own wardrobe of tops and bottoms to mix-or-match at whim? More at-home looks.
…TO JUST
Private Indulgences
sleeved pyjama top – McCall’s M6659 view C..
LAIN FUN! 9
Latest Fabric Trends
! t n i r P
Nothing beats a print in black and white and these little gemsarenoexception.Allthreefabricsaresoeasyto sew and care for. Get in quick before they run out the door!
1
n i e r ’
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1. Lace
Hearts printed knit – polyester/spandex blend, colour: Black/Cream, 145cm wide with a 70cm pattern repeat, $19.95m sleeve lengths and either V-neck or high, drape-neck collar. This version has been made to pattern but with a three-quarterlength sleeve. Pattern:
2
2. Modena
printed knit – viscose/ spandex blend, colour: Black/Light neckline options. View C used here. Pattern:
3. Forest
printed knit, polyester/ spandex blend, colour: Black/Cream, 145cm wide with a 70cm pattern repeat, $19.95m. Pattern:
alterations made to this pattern. 3
Fabrics and patterns are from Knitwit Contact: Wendy Gager, Shop 4/142 Stirling Highway, Nedlands, WA 6009. Phone: (08) 9389 1222 Local call cost outside Perth: 1300 852 122 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.knitwit.com.au
Perfect Fit
Waistband
Contouring Compiled by Lynn Cook
As with any fashion, the shape, height and detail of a garment waistline fluctuates with time. A current fashion trend is for the waistline to be moulded to the high hip. Regardless of the fashion mood, this contoured waistband requires careful attention to fit and easing. It is also important to select appropriate fabrics and Styling It is interesting to note that most contoured wai stb and s are combined with a skirt that has fullness in the design. The moulded waist combined with garment volume can create imbalance on many figu res. The best choice for the average figure is a desig n that is streamlined, using fabrics that drape in sof t folds. Vogue 9007, all views, would work well fo r many as it has soft, undulating folds of fabric com bined with a contoured waistband. This is a strea m ine silhouette, which can work well for the sho rter, heavier figure when the colour combinatio n is continuous and muted. See photos 1 and 2 . Caution is required when a contoured waist ends in volumes of fabric or where th e contoured panel is of contrasting fabric or colour. Both of these concepts will shorten the figure, making the garment unsuitable for a short, thick torso. See photos 3, 4 and 5. 1. Vogue
V9007 view B
When all other factors are perfect, a contoured waistline will suit an individual with a short upper torso. It is important tha t this guideline be followed with continuity o f colour and fabric drape. As the saying goes – buyer beware! See photos 6a and 6b.
Fit and the contoured waistline Fit ideas regarding a contoured waistband should not be confused with the fit of a tra ditional waistband. More frequently, these design fe atures 12
2. Vogue
V9007 view C
Perfect Fit Uneven hipl ine An uneven hipline can be a bit of a ot er in a contoured waistline. On one hand i you alter the pattern, you then have an uneven contoured panel, which can be disturbing to the eye. On the other hand if you do not alter for this figure variation, the arment will be ill-fitting and less flattering. Our general belief is that it is best to avoid this type of ashion if you have an obvious imbalance at the hipline. If you have a slight variation (1cm 3 in] or less), a small alteration to the pattern will improve fit and be less noticeable. To adjust for an uneven hipline, you will need to trace off a right and left side to each pattern piece. You can alter the pattern for the lower hip by slashing into the high hip of the contoured band, sliding out the required amount and tapering to zero at the centre front and back. Make sure you slide the top piece down over the lower panel to avoid disttortion of the grainline. See diagram 5.
Construction ideas We have recommended this style for many figure types when made from a soft draping fabric like wool crepe; however this fabric choice may not be the most suitable for the structured look of a contoured panel. To improve the finished appearance of this style when using soft fabric, we recommend a well interfaced or fused cloth. This will give body and support to a style that requires a crisp finish. It is also important that the upper edge of the contour be stabilised further. To do this we suggest the use of cotton twill tape stretched slightly and then stitched within the seamline. The stretching of the twill tape will act as easing for the upper edge, allowing it to cup closer to the figure, giving a more professional finish. The tape will also prevent the upper edge from stretching during wear. See diagram 8. Diagram 1 – large circumference alteration
Swayback The swayback adjustment iss another asymmetrical 6a. McCall’s alteration that can distort M5431 view the appearance of a A contoured band. However, because this adjustment is completed at the centre back, it is less likely to cause a visual imbalance. To carry out this adjustment, determine where the waistline is on the pattern. Slash into the pattern waistline at the centre-back point, and then slide out the required amount, moving the upper tissue down over the lower pattern. This alteration tapers to zero at the side seam. Please note: if you are making a hipster garment, you will not need to complete this adjustment. See diagram 6.
Hollow back A hollow back can also create a poor fit within a contoured waistline. This can be adjusted for by darting out small amounts of fullness within the back contoured panel. It is important to remove small amounts gradually over the back panel so as to avoid severe distortion of the original shape. See diagram 7.
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Diagram 2 – small or uneven circumference alteration
Diagram 3 – Reducing the contour depth
Diagram 4 – Increasing the contour depth
Diagram 5 – Uneven hipline alteration
Diagram 6 – Swayback alteration
Diagram 7 – Hollow back alteration
Diagram 8 – Adding cotton tape to the waist seam
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Latest Pattern Trends By Eddi Frantz – Butterick
B5994
F I R S T
Travelling
Class
www.butterick.com 16
B5961
A JACKET THAT’S READY TO GO ANWHERE B5994:
B5986
B5994
A DRESS WITH MODERN MOBILITY B5986:
TOPS & PANTS THAT FLY HIGH IN ANY SITUATION B5961: Very loose-
B5961
YOUR ONE STOP FABRIC SHOP! For all your sewing, knitting, millinery, haberdashery, and fabric craft needs. Specialists in bridal, evening wear and fashion fabrics Stockists of Vogue, Burda, New Look, Butterick, McCalls and Simplicity Patterns Come in to see our great range of yarns, including
Rowan, Naturally, Filatura Di Crosa, Katia, Patons, Panda, and many more! Plus our beautiful new range of winter fabrics are in store now. Open 7 Days a week at our City store and 6 days a week on Lygon Street.
Phone: (03) 9654 7677 - 60 Elizabeth Street, Melbourne Phone: (03) 9388 0700 - 396 Lygon Street, Brunswick East
E:
[email protected]
Facebook.com/ClegsFabrics
8 0 _ 8 0 2 2 T S
Latest Pattern Trends By Eddi Frantz – Simplicity
SEWSTYLISH 1542: Jacket
with buttoned-back tab, in three versions with front and collar variations, and skirt gathered on waistband. Misses’ sizes: 4 – 20.
Sleek, feminine styling that easily crosses over from chic to casual … rich, spicy shades that are neither too dark nor too bright … the distinctive jackets just mean boring old blazers
THIN AGAIN www.simplicity.com
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Creative Ideas
The
Oriental
Panel
By Vicki Taggart The Australian Sewing Guild Industry Day at Brisbane Northside – with plenty to see and do - was one not to miss! We enjoyed talks and demonstrations from Kerryn’s Fabric World, Kazuyo’s Japanese Fabrics, Genesis paints, Janome and costume maker, Gayle McGregor. Stalls at the event provided shopping opportunities for between talks. At Kazuyo’s stall, I fell for a length of brightly printed fabric from an unpicked kimono. It was about 2.5m long and mostly 36cm wide. Black was the best choice to coordinate with such a strong design. Once home and fabrics both washed, I draped it on Dolly my dressmaker’s dummy, and played with various style ideas. Would it be used for sleeves, yoke panels in a skirt, jacket, or top, or a centre panel in a dress? With a little research in fashion magazines and style websites, an idea dawned that I was happy with – a tunic dress to be worn on its own or over slim-fit pants. THE DRESS PATTERN The best visual width for the bodice panel is slightly wider than the bust separation measurement. Using a top pattern as a guide (this garment uses Butterick 4811 cut with the centre front on the fold), draw this line on the pattern from the shoulder to the waist. Change the neckline, if necessary, to sit at least 2cm (¾in) inside the panel at the shoulder seam. Shorten the bodice to finish about 2cm (½in) above the natural waist, keeping the waist join wide enough to go over the head without a zipper. This bodice length is 41cm (16in) from the shoulder at the neckline. Do the same for the back bodice pattern. Add seam allowances where necessary. If the top pattern has a collar, you may need to create a front and back neck facing. Shorten the sleeve to 20cm (8in). The skirt panel width is 33cm (12¾in) which will use the full 36cm (14in) when the seam allowances are included. Decide on the length then add 1.5cm ( 5 / 8in) at the waist join and 3cm (1¼in) for the hem. No side seams are required in the skirt. It should be loose but not billowing, so measure your hips and add about 4cm (1½in) extra. Subtract the back and front panel widths and allow for the seam allowances. Divide by 2 to get the width of
Creative Ideas each side skirt (extra width can be cut off after fitting). Take 4cm (1½in) off at waist seams and taper to hem. Add seam allowances and 3cm (1¼in) for the hem. See diagram 1.
Diagram 1
CUTTING The front bodice panel was ‘fussy-cut’ to get the best part of the print within the panel width. The front and back skirt panels were cut from the widest part of the fabric, and the back bodice was cut last, keeping in mind I may be able to use the left-over print. The black fabric is cut on grain.
2cm (½in)
Straighten the side seams
SEWING Sew the panels to the bodice and skirt pieces. Join the front and back bodices at the shoulders and sides, then insert the sleeves. Pin the skirt to the bodice with small pleats (more flattering than gathering) pointing to the side seams, matching the panel joins and side-seam markings. Try on the garment. This is the time for any adjustments – sleeve and hem lengths, neckline and slight waist shaping. Make any necessary adjustments.
Waistline
Overlock the hem edges and seams. Stitch the bodice to the skirt, overlock the seam and press. The neckline needed definition and black piping was perfect. The skirt looked rather full at the lower edge, but the 20mm wide elastic inserted in the hem pulled it in but still gave room to move.
Maximum width of 33cm (12¾in)
Centre panel Cut 2 print
Side front
Side back
Side skirt panel Cut 2
FINISHING THE TUNIC As there was no Oriental print left to make the neck facing, and black would show through, I used a lime green fabric. It was also used for the two reversible, removable tabs that buttoned on at the waist seam. The tabs pull the waist in slightly, but can be left off with just the buttons featuring. LEFT-OVER FABRIC With a small piece of kimono fabric left, I needed to work out what else to make. There was enough for a front yoke for a long top in the remaining black fabric. See photo on page 41. pattern, lengthen the pattern to hip level on the left side, and mid-thigh level on the right, forming an asymmetrical hemline. Both sides have splits for movement. The front yoke is cut to a level approximately 2 / 3 of the armhole curve. Add seam allowances to the lower edge of the yoke and the upper edge of the front pattern. After seeing the first fitting (seams only), it needed more colour. The last scraps were sewn together to make the angled pocket to follow the hemline. Black satin bias gave definition to the neckline and sleeves.
Hip measurement minus panel widths, divided by 2, plus 4cm (1½in) each side.
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Keep an eye out for unusual fabrics. Drape it on yourself, look at it, research and wait for the creativity to kick in!
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Technically Speaking
Construction Elements –
Needles & Threads By Alison Wheeler 1
This series of articles focuses on various areas of garment construction and offers different methods to achieve success and a garment to be proud of. With every element of sewing there are lots of options, with choices to be made about fabrics, notions and techniques. This certainly applies to needles and threads. Things you may not know about needles and threads Selecting the most suitable thread for a project is not just about the best colour match. Threads vary in composition and thickness and using a thread that is not compatible with the fabric; too weak or too thick can spoil the finished result, as the thread will not do its job of holding the garment together while remaining an invisible part of the construction. There will be times when thread is used in a decorative context but for the main construction, the thread’s smoothness, strength and ability to blend and meld into the fabric are the most important requirements.
2
Types of thread Most threads intended for general construction are either polyester or a polyester-wrapped cotton thread. They are usually very strong and suit the majority of fabrics. The main thing to consider is the thickness of the thread. It is interesting to compare threads as they can vary widely in thickness. See photo 1. If you are sewing a fine, lightweight fabric it is best to use a finer thread. Thicker threads are more suitable for heavier fabrics. Threads are identified by numbers indicating thickness – #100 very fine, #50 fine, #40 medium, #30 thick. Most common machine sewing thread is #40. See photo 2. Silk thread comes in a variety of thicknesses from #100 which is wonderful for hand-sewing hems – it is so fine that hemstitching is not visible from the right side of a garment
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(provided of course that a very small stitch and fine needle are used!). #50 weight silk thread blends into the fabric beautifully with machine sewing. See photo 3. Decorative and specialty threads are available for specific purposes – fine rayon machine embroidery thread, topstitching thread, fine cotton heirloom thread, #50 quilting cotton.
Tips for Usage unwound so choosing a slightly darker thread to match the project will give a better match. use two regular threads through one needle to add the required thickness. These threads can be blending colours for multi-coloured garments. work well for machine buttonholes; use silk buttonhole thread if making hand-worked buttonholes. e.g. coat or jacket buttons. well with horizontal feed. Some specialty threads are not cross wound and will work better with vertical feed. If your machine does not have provision for two spools feeding in the same direction, there are separate thread guides available for a reasonable cost – these can be a great sanity saver when using twin needles or two threads in one needle. small piece of white paper directly behind the needle and the hole will be more visible. with the thread stretching as it is wound on to the bobbin, resulting in puckered stitches – slow down to around threequarter speed for the best results. are winding a bobbin – it should be loose between the thread reel and the tension mechanism and taut from the tension mechanism to the bobbin. If you end up with a ‘squishy’ bobbin, failure to do this is the most likely cause. Bobbins can be rewound to a new bobbin. is exactly the same as the thread wound on to the bobbin. Different colours can be used but, for perfect stitching, the thread brand and weight needs to be the same – unless of course you are doing decorative techniques.
3
4
5
Hand-stitching Twisting thread is one of the most common problems encountered when hand-stitching. To eliminate twisting: eye of the needle and cut off the required length. 25
Technically Speaking 6
and thread the cut end through the eye of the needle. and then ironing the thread before stitching. stitching except when attaching fastenings (e.g. hooks and eyes, press studs, etc.). 50cm (19½in). prepare several threaded needles before starting. permanent stitches only, wax the thread – thread the needle and run the thread through beeswax; place between two sheets of paper towel and iron while pulling the thread through – this melts the wax and embeds it into the thread.
Needles Machine needles are identified by type on the package by both their type name and a type number which is common to all brands. See photo 4. The needle size is also marked on the package. With machine needles, the smaller the number, the finer the needle. Schmetz are now colour-coding their machine needles which makes it easy to identify what you have been using. They provide an excellent free download of their needle guide on their website http:// www.schmetzneedles.com/learning/pdf/ 26
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schmetz-needle-chart.pdf . Schmetz which would make needle choice when shopping for notions very convenient.
been used but are still useable, mark needle types with a permanent fabric marker on an inexpensive pin cushion. See photo 6.
Tips for machine needles not accommodate a needle smaller than Size 75. If using a finer needle, it needs to be threaded by hand. at approximately 6-8 hours of actual use. Be guided by your fabric as polyester fabrics dull needles much faster than natural fibre fabrics. If your machine is making a louder sound as you stitch, consider changing the needle. (and pins) in a sharps container (readily available at chemists) and when full place in the bin. It is very easy for them to disappear into the pin cushion and if the filling is a type of fibre-fill, they can rust. Emery powder or fine, dry sand is a better filler. see photo 5, if you think your needle may have a burr which is most often caused by hitting a pin. Do not sew over pins and, if you do accidentally hit one, stop and check the needle immediately. If working with very fine fabric, change to a new needle or you will risk pulling threads in your fabric.
Hand needles The sizing system for hand needles is the opposite of that for machine needles (why this was done I have no idea!). #3 is a large needle; #6-7 is medium and #9-12 fine to very fine. See photo 7. When selecting needle size, match the size of the needle to the thickness of the thread and type of fabric being sewn. different techniques. Sharps are general embroidery; Milliner’s needles (formerly straw needles) are used to make bullions. Quilters/Betweens are used for stitching in smaller spaces.
Tips for using hand needles thread and fabric and do the job – no big holes and fine thread. tacking and running stitches. and slip-stitch. have a problem threading them, use has a longer eye.
Latest Pattern Trends By Eddi Frantz – New Look
UNISEX PANTS, ROBE AND KNIT TOPS 6233: Unisex loungewear includes knit top in short or long sleeves, knit or woven drawstring pants, and bathrobe with pockets. Tops sized for stretch knits only: cotton interlock or jerseys. Robe and chambray, cotton and cotton blends. Robe Unisex sizes: XS – XL.
6234
6233 TODDLERS' TOP, PANTS AND ROBE 6234: Toddlers' top has short sleeves and a chest pocket. Pants have elastic waist for comfort and ease. Hooded robe comes with two convenient front pockets. For cotton cottons, calico, chambray, seersucker, for sleepwear). Use fabrics and trims that meet government Toddlers’ sizes: 1/2 – 4.
New Look patterns at
S
leeping beauties 29
Latest Fabric Trends – Martin & Savage Fabrics
ALL
LACED
This lace collection has taken its inspiration from ‘Downton Abbey’. So, imagine those beautiful elegant silhouettes worn by Lady Mary … then add all the glamour of exquisite fabrics and you’ve got the feel for this fabric story. It’s all about texture. Lace with corded ribbon embroidery, satin stitch laces, appliquéd and stitched laces and eyelet laces, all teamed back with silk satins.
UP!
Colours go from old gold to cafe au lait, to ivory, to blush. Perfect for first, second and dare we say it – third-time-round brides, for bridesmaids and for mother and grandmother of the bride. Or, for that very special occasion when you just want to celebrate with perhaps a beautiful fabric jacket teamed with a silk satin skirt or palazzo pant. Available from the Martin & Savage Collection.
1. Full Bloom 34082, design: 0, 95% polyester/5% spandex, colour: Nutmeg, 147/149cm wide. 2. Riviera 13312, design: 1693K, 100% polyester, colour: Oyster, 125/130cm wide. 1
2
3
3. P/C Stretch Satin 33810, design: 0, 51% polyester/ 46% cotton/3% spandex, colour: Deer, 144/147cm wide.
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4. 16mm Silk Satin 22601, 98% polyester/2% spandex, colour: A – Gold, B – Ivory, C – Flint, 122-126cm wide. 4C
5. Ibiza 34081, design: Plain, 93% polyester/7% spandex, colour: Moet, 142/147cm wide.
10 4B
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6. Riviera 13312, design: 1693K, 100% polyester, colour: Powder, 125/130cm wide.
4A 5
7. Ibiza 34081, design: Plain, 93% polyester/7% spandex, colour: Rose Gold, 142/147cm wide. 8. Toulouse 14011, design: E1331, 100% polyester, colour: Ivory, 135/152cm wide.
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9. Crave 13308, design: 1314504C 100% polyester, colour: White, 125/127cm wide. 7
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10. Marseille 14012, design: E1311, 100% polyester, colour: Ivory, 135/152cm wide. 11. PU Leather N Lace 14034, design: 91001F, 100% polyester, colour: White, 125/130cm wide.
For stockist enquiries contact Martin & Savage (02) 9698 5811 30
s m a e S
6mm
r a l l o c f o h t d i W
2cm (¾in)
Back neck length Front neck length to front band seam only.
e r u t u o c
Change the collar shape, as per diagram.
McCall’s M6531 view C
Reduce the front band length to neck edge. Add a band to the left side.
Add pockets and pocket flaps to this seam. Stitch the pocket flap into the seam and pocket bag on the inside of the jacket so only the stitching shows the
e h t d n i h e From Pattern B Add a button at the waist to stop the front tab gapping.
Straighten the hemline and eliminate hem drawstring.
Replace the patch pockets with welt pockets, using this positioning point for the welt.
Regular Feature
Mark this point approx. 2.5cm (1in) back from the end of the collar. The collar will be stitched to the neckline to this point and then left free at the ends.
O G T h e
In the world of jacket dressing, what separates the best from the rest – the way a jacket travels across time zones to look great almost anywhere … the way it’s not too stitched or stiff, but can add just the right amount of style and polish to whatever you throw it over ... and if you sew, that’s easily solved!
Runway Worthy
Tailoring Secrets
Perfecting the
Sleeve-head Roll Compiled by Lynn Cook
Nothing will give you the ‘home-made’ look quicker than a badly set-in sleeve. You may have spent hours trying to get it right but you know something is still missing – the secret ingredient is the sleeve-head roll – here we show you just how easy it is to achieve.
1
2
3
4
34
T
his simple, easy-to-use method, gives you a perfect sleeve-head every time. It smooths out any easing tucks, even with a difficult-to-ease fabric such as a taffeta. This method is best suited for tailored jackets and lined garments in
5
general.
The hidden ingredient to this method is simple – wadding! It fills and pads out any excess easing at the crown of the sleeve, giving it a softer appearance. Wadding can be purchased by the metre and comes in various thicknesses. It is comprised of thin layers, which peel away, making it easy to use. See photo 1. You can determine for yourself what thickness of wadding to insert, depending on fabric weight. A lighter weight fabric only needs a thin layer of wadding, whereas heavier wool fabric needs more to achieve the same result. Be careful when cutting wadding not to dull or damage your scissors. A good idea is to use an old pair.
6
First, cut the wadding insert approximately 20cm long x 2.5cm wide (8in long x 1in wide). Trim both ends to a point and slightly grade back the thickness of the wadding at each end. See photo 2. To prepare the sleeve, ease the sleeve cap by stitching two closely spaced rows of machine basting and then pull the bobbin threads. Set-in the sleeve as the pattern instructs. Trim back and/or overlock the seam allowance. Press the seam allowance toward the sleeve. Place the wadding roll insert to the wrong side of the sleeve head (the inside of the garment), covering the armhole seam allowance, and centre it either side of the shoulder position. Pin in place. See photo 3. Machine-stitch the insert in place, close to the armhole stitching line. Cover the shoulder pads and pin them in place. Position the shoulder pad to extend past the shoulder line and into the sleeve approximately 1cm – 1.5cm ( 3 / 8 – 5 / 8in). Handstitch the shoulder pad in place along the armhole seam allowance and shoulder line seam using a long backstitch. See photo 4.
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Finish and line the garment as the pattern instructs. Finally, press the completed garment very carefully and stand back and admire your work! See photo 5. If you want to apply this method to an unlined garment, simply encase the pre-cut wadding in a piece of bias-cut organza. See photo 6. This way the wadding is not exposed and will handle the cleaning process more satisfactorily. Slightly ease in the rounded corners of the covered wadding roll and apply to sleeve head/armhole seam allowance as before. See photo 7. 35
The Fabric Shop More than just Beautiful Fabrics! Prefer to make your own? That print and many like the ones shown here are available from our store.
Beautiful jewel colours with lots of choice available, including a number of other colour palettes!
Easy Care Jersey Dress One of the Maelena Collection, Real Clothes for Real People ready to wear garments, this is a super comfortable dress made in a combination of plain poly jersey and printed jersey quality fabrics. Its ruched side panel helps camouflage problem spots and flatters most figures. It is available in a number of fabric combinations, in sizes 12 to 20, from the Maelena Collection @ The Fabric Shop, Robina. Smart Casual A more casual look? Try our great fit Capri Pants or casual tops & jackets. There’s lots of choice. Or you could just buy the fabric! Check our website for ideas.
Contact us now and order your fabric “Sample Pack”. Mail orders welcomed!
M A I L O W E L C R D E O M R S E
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Unit 3, 76 Robina Town Centre Drive, Robina, QLD. Ph 61 7 55930016
www.thefabricshoprobina.com.au
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The prettiest, most seductive things are often hidden from view. Soft, silky robes float over dreamy lace-kissed slips or camisole sets for the loveliest looks under the covers … or anywhere private.
Latest Pattern Trends By Eddi Frantz – Vogue V8888: Wrap-and-tie robe with length
and trim variations, two slip designs as shown that can be shortened to camisole length, and panties. For charmeuse, crepe de chine or jerseys with trim in lace or Point D'esprit. Misses’ sizes: 6 – 20.
Inside story www.voguepatterns.com
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Technically Speaking
Stretched Out of Shape! By Judith Turner
Disaster can strike at any time, as with this dress, but alterations expert Judith, aka Genie, grants the wish of her client and fixes the problem! What was the problem, how did it happen and how did Judith fix it? Read on …
takes it to the dry cleaner. Dry cleaner: Hangs the dress on a hanger and stretches the shoulders and neckline completely out of shape. Disaster strikes! Client: Unaware of disaster until client goes to wear the dress. This is what the dress looked like when client tried it on. Client: Lent dress to friend Friend: Thinks she doing the right thing See photo 1. after borrowing her friends dress and 1
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ltering a machine-knitted dress is almost the same as altering a normal knit fabric, with a bit more care. My client asked if I could fix it …
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“Yes, however, rather than take the sleeves out completely, I may be able to take it up at the shoulders and ease the sleeve back in. This may mean a slight gathering. Would you mind if it was a little gathered at the top as a worst case scenario?” She said she would not mind. So this alteration is based upon the above worst case scenario.
I always try and give the worst outcome because, when altering readymade garments, the success of the alteration will always be determined by the type of fabric/knit and the style. Altering readymade is totally different from altering a pattern. In readymade you are limited by the garment construction and fabric type. Note:
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The first step was to pin the dress on her body. When pinning the shoulder, always have the point of the pin facing away from the neck. Take the excess fabric between thumb and index finger and insert the pin. Repeat on the shoulder at the top of the sleeve, sliding the pin so that the sharp tip points towards the top of the sleeve. There will be times when a pin is needed in the middle, however it was not in this case. See photo 2.
When a garment is too big, the solution to the problem (in my opinion) can only be determined by pinning it onto the client. I was asked how to reduce the size of a blouse which was too big in the back area and shoulders. My reply was, “Without viewing the person in the garment that is like saying – how long is a piece of string?”. I can work off measurements but to fit to the body is the best solution. Note:
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The alteration process has two factors: 1. Garment construction 2. Body shape The two go hand-in-hand. This is why I came up with my ‘Taking in Technique’ – it relies on pinning the garment on the body, but where it is pinned will depend upon the garment construction, as well as the person’s body shape. The next step when altering the garment is to measure the position of the pins in relation to the original seam. Note: I
never pin a garment inside out. Why? Because my client would be seeing the seam allowances sticking out and this would make 39
Technically Speaking 5
her look bigger than she is. Plus, I want to see what it is going to look like from the right side – not the wrong side. Make a line drawing of the garment. If the client’s shoulders are not the same height, I would label right and left shoulder so as not to mix up measurements. Record the inside neck measurement and the outside sleeve measurement on the drawing. See photo 3. Take the pins out and turn the garment inside out. To ease the sleeve back in, I decided to unpick 10cm (4in) either side of the shoulder seam. Measure the amount to unpick down each side, and place a dot. Repeat on the second armhole.
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A knit garment is generally joined with a chain stitch. Gently pull the seams apart, then slip the unpicker in to cut ONE stitch only. This will release a few more at the same time, allowing you to find the loose thread on one side and flick the chain stitch so it unravels. Before completely releasing the chain stitch, cut the thread on the opposite side of the armhole, to prevent it from completely unravelling the sleeve seam. Repeat on second sleeve. See photo 4. I always sew with the front panel on top. This means on one side start from the sleeve edge working towards the neck line, and on the opposite side start from the neck edge to the sleeve. This is to ensure the neck edge sits flush. The ribbed section around the neck edge MUST BE matched so that the alteration is difficult to notice from the right side. If the ribbing is uneven the alteration will be visible. Measure from the original seam on the shoulder down to the new seam line and place a dot; this will mean a dot at the sleeve edge and on the neck edge on the appropriate side, as per the above instructions. See photo 5.
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Change your sewing needle to a Stretch 75/11 (my preferred brand is Schmetz) and thread your machine with a good quality thread. Before the sewing begins, make your stitch length longer than average (approximately 3mm [ 1 / 8in]), but not a gather, as a small stitch will stretch the fabric. When starting at the sleeve edge, it is easy to line up the ribbing on the neck edge as you come towards it. Use a pin to hold the ribbing in place. When starting from the neck edge, lower the needle into the end of the ribbing where it starts at the body of the garment. This means you will start sewing about 1cm ( 3 / 8in) from the edge, then REVERSE back to the edge, then come forward and sew to the sleeve edge. You may need to raise the foot of the machine if the knit is catching, but always keep the needle DOWN in the fabric and gently push the knit under the
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Finished alteration
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machine foot, then lower and continue. See photo 6.
See photo 8.
Like the stitch length of the sewing machine, have the length of the overlocking stitch longer so that it does not stretch the knit, and wide enough for the thickness of the fabric layers. Overlock away the excess, leaving a long thread tail at the neck edge. Slip the overlocking tail into the rest of the overlocking by using a loop turner (available from my website) or a needle. Do not cut the overlocking at the edge as the threads will stick out. Hand-stitch the seam at the neck edge so it sits flat.
To complete the alteration, reattach the sleeve with the sleeve on the top. See photo 9.
To ease the sleeve back into the armhole, it is best to place a gathering stitch around the edge of the sleeve and slightly gather. See photo 7.
To purchase Clothing Alteration Secrets Revealed by Judith Turner email judith@ geniecentre.com or phone 0417 369 339 Price: AUD$54.95 (plus postage). Digital version available: AUD$39.95
Pin the sleeve back into the armhole, placing the original shoulder point of the sleeve to the new shoulder seam.
Visit my website www.geniecentre.com and click on the Free Hints, or you can subscribe to my Free Monthly Newsletter. Exclusive entry to all Full Feature clothing alteration videos and digital eBooks is accessible through the ‘Magic Circle’ on the website. Workshops available.
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1. Purple/mauve/green panel, polyester/elastane, 150cm x 180cm, $45 per panel or $24.99m. 2. Philosophy (M&S), polyester/elastane, colour: Lotus, 150cm wide, $24.99m. 3. Design: 9920, polyester/elastane, colour: A (Morr), 148cm wide, $25.99m. 4. Design: MF9941, viscose/spandex, colour: Hot Pink (MAD), 165cm wide, $14.99m. 5. Design: 9840, polyester/spandex, colour: A (Morr), 150cm wide, $25.99m.
1. Design: 3158 L/Alice, 100% linen, colour: Navy (Ross), 130cm wide, $39.99m. 2. Design: 2950, 100% linen, colour: Powder (Pott), 136cm wide, $29.99m. 3. Design: 3149 E/Rhizophora (Ross), 100% linen, 138cm wide, $32.99m. 4. Italian Linen, 100% linen, colour: Dusty Lilac, 136cm wide, $32.99m. 5. Design: 3037 L/R Havana (Ross), linen/rayon, colour: Charcoal, 137cm wide, $32.99m.
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Latest Fabric Trends – Sckafs Fabrics
Whether it’s a jersey dress, top or skirt you’re after, or a linen suit, skirt or blouse, Sckafs Fabrics have something inspirational and on-trend to offer. And as always, Sckafs Fabrics will email you suggested pattern numbers plus a photo of any fabrics, trims, buttons and colour scheme on request. Now that’s service! Imagine having friendly expert advice on hand to help you decide on your next inspirational sewing challenge. The possibilities are endless, just take time out and visit Sckafs Fabrics to make your dreams come true.
Contact Sckafs Fabrics Shop 1002, Indooroopilly Shopping Centre, Moggill Road, Indooroopilly, Qld 4068. Phone: (07) 3378 8591 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.sckafsfabrics.com.au
ACN 010 364 737 ABN 26 309 134357
Fabrics
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Wear What When By Eddi Frantz hen you’re travelling, some things are essential – credit cards, toiletries, and depending on where you’re heading, air tickets and a passport. Another one would be an easy, lightweight jacket in a seasonless (maybe even showerproof) fabric, a neutral (often darker) colour and with enough handy pockets to stash things in without making you look like Crocodile Dundee. This style adapted from an anorak pattern (see page 64) is long enough to layer over light jerseys for sudden chills, but chic enough to look terrific whether you're sightseeing or supping at that great little late-night bistro. We show it here over those other travel essentials; – cropped pants and flats, but it could just as easily work over jeans, khakis, even a Little Black Dress or a sparkly top and pants for those slightly dressier dinners. Other versatile options that won’t ever suffer jet-lag –
T C K E A J E T h
The m
lti
The DO-IT-ALL DRESS an a dress literally ‘do it all?’ Well, it won’t clean your house or make you dinner, but it will definitely take you from AM coffee to PM cocktails with a minimum of fuss, and can be easily styled six ways situation, at almost any time of the year. It is also effortlessly flattering to your figure, and is easy to pack and travel with you anywhere. That is, the ‘right’ dress will. that does all this? Well, an LBD is the obvious answer, but we think that there are other, more exciting may be versatile, but they don’t flatter everyone. A softly draped or wrapped jersey dress moves with you while flattering your form (afraid that all that soft knit will show every lump and bump? details on the facing page). Colour that dress in a rich jewel tone for true seasonless versatility. Wear with black or grey in winter, light natural textures or metallic accessories in the warmer months.
taskers Even with so much choice in fashion today, some things are still hard to find out there. Things like a jacket that easily crosses the line between chic and casual, and that can travel anywhere ... A top that easily moves from day to night … A great dress that’s not dowdy though not too bare, not too formal but that looks great anytime,45
Wear What When AM – McCall’s
PM – McCall’s
s the old saying goes, ‘One Can’t Have Too Many Tops’ (well, it’s not exactly an ‘old saying’ as such … just something that many of us have been thinking shouldn’t stop them from only having one purpose. In fact, it only makes those versatile types of tops even more valuable, especially when they go beyond the standard (but boring) go-withanything basics.
M6654 skirt
The best tops today are strong and singular enough to stand on their own. They are designed to make a look, rather than merely play a supporting role.
T he
AM – McCall’s
Pletsch top with 46
TO P T H G O - N I T Y A D
There’s also lots of variety among those standout tops. Here, we show two distinctly different styles – one that’s barer (meant to be layered over a tank) and that relies on soft, sensual draping for its impact, while the other makes a statement with its roomy scale, easy shape and strong print. Both can easily move from day to night with a switch from basic leggings, pants or jeans to a more elaborate skirt, and a few evening-only extras. It’s just like having two (or more) tops never have too many ...
PM – McCall’s
Pletsch top with M6654 skirt
TOYOTA ESG325 – ALL ROUNDER A multi purpose machine that will sew every type of project and need you may have. Specialised patchwork & quilting stitches and accessorie s plus all the other stitches and extras you could want or need. STITCH LENGTH and STITCH WIDTH CONTROLS. 25 STITCH PATTERNS INCLUDING 5 SPECIALISED STITCHES FOR PATCHWORK & QUILTING. ALL PATCHWORK & QUILTING ACCESSORIES INCLUDED:- WALKING FOOT, FREE MOTION STIPLING / DARNING FOOT, ¼” PIECING FOOT, OPEN TOE APPLIQUE FOOT, PIPING/ZIPPER & QUILTING GUIDE. ELECTRONIC FOOT CONTROL FOR MORE POWER STITCHING & CONTROL OF SPEED. PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE & DROP FEED CONTROL. BUILT IN NEEDLE THREADER.
e A v a i l a b l y l e v i s u l e x c l t i g h t f r o m s p o s s t o r e
ONE STEP BUTTON HOLE. TWIN NEEDLE SEWING. PLUS MACHINE EXTENSION TABLE AND SEVERAL OTHER FEET/ACCESSORIES INCLUDE D.
www.sewing.aisin.com.au ME20-12_01
Beautiful Fabrics for all Occasions
many exclusively available in Australia @ The Fabric Shop, Robina M A I W E L O R L C D E R O M S E
Unit 3, 76 Robina Town Centre Drive, Robina QLD 4226 Ph: (07) 5593 0016 or visit
www.thefabricshoprobina.com.au
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Latest Pattern Trends
OUNGE ACT
By Eddi Frantz – McCall’s
THE BEST LOOKS BEHIND CLOSED DOORS ARE DEEP IN THE COMFORT ZONE … SOFT, SLIDE-ABLE TOPS, COSY HOODED TUNICS AND OTHER AT-HOME PLEASURES ARE AT EASE IN FINE, FLUID KNITS.
EASY SHAPES, SOFT KNITS … EVERYTHING IS RIGHT AT HOME – M6849:
www.mccallpattern.com 49
Latest Fabric Trends
What’s New
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By Kerryn Swan from Kerryn’s Fabric World
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Many dressmaking women dream of making their daughter’s wedding dress – made-to-measure and made with love, to a style of choice, in beautiful quality fabric. With so much choice available it’s the perfect way to go. Kerryn has compiled a list of the different types of laces available, plus suitable styles for body shape and personality, to create the perfect gown for the bride-to-be!
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he perfect gown is one that fits properly, made with a fabric that is perfect for the style and which the bride likes the feel of. The style of gown needs to suit the body shape and the bride’s personality – something they feel comfortable in. The length of the gown needs to be designed around shoes that can be worn for many hours – remember, your face cannot smile if your feet are killing you; that rule is advisable for every member of the wedding party.
Altering an existing gown If you’ve purchased a wedding gown online and the fit isn’t perfect, yes it is possible to alter it to fit, but remember that this is very costly – the dress has 50
to be unpicked, altered to fit and then remade – time consuming, therefore costly. The length of the gown can be altered, but edging laces cannot and should be adjusted to the exact length during the construction of the gown. If the gown has edging lace and cannot be altered, the bride may have to get those killer heels so she won’t trip over and end up on the TV show Funniest Home Videos.
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Making a gown from scratch There is a style of wedding gown suitable for every figure shape, it’s just a matter of finding the right style for YOU. Are you curved or angular; what is the hem length you would like to wear – long, three-quarter or short; what type of fabric do you have in mind – structured, soft and flowing, solid or transparent, natural or manmade fibres?
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Go and try on as many different ready-made gowns as possible to get an idea of the styles you like and what suits. Sketch, pull out ideas from magazines, look for commercial patterns and then take them to Kerryn’s and they can show you fabrics and colours that are suitable for the style and fit into a budget (if there is one).
Note: The lace bells at the ends of the rouleau and the shoulder flower have been made from the lace pieces. Building-up and overlaying any laces can create a 3D effect.
Trimming existing gowns Laces and trims are available in plain, corded or beaded. Some are lightweight, some medium and others are quite heavy. The very lightweight laces are very hard to photograph so they are better over the entire gown.
Gown made from De-lustred Satin from Kerryn’s Fabric World, 150cm wide, $26m.
The corded laces show up much better in the wedding photos. Some corded laces may already have some beading and extra beads can be added if the bride wishes – this is a good way for the bride or family member to have some input in the gown without making the entire gown. Certain corded laces can be cut into motif pieces and used as trims for a bodice or midriff. See photo 1. Kerryn’s stocks lace motifs, trims and edging fabrics that match to give a more professional looking gown. See photo 2. 51
Latest Fabric Trends 5
The newest laces on the market have a more 3D appearance. See photo 3. This lace can be cut into individual motifs to place wherever you like. The edging can also be cut to different size pieces or used as an edging. See photo 4.
Getting great value from laces Some laces are an all-over design that is 137cm wide and has a double-edge scallop designed to be cut down the middle so you get great value for money.
Beaded pieces
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Crystals and diamantes are the huge fashion at the moment for both weddings and school formals. They can be purchased as pieces to be used as shoulder straps, or placed above or under the bust. The bridesmaids can have a trim matching that of the bride. See photo 5. Depending on the lace, it can be used as one piece or separated into pieces. The net or tulle is there to keep the beads in place. Trim off the excess and the tulle will disappear when it is stitched to the gown. Most pieces are beaded with very fine beads but some are quite funky and chunky. See photo 6. The quality of beads will vary quite a bit. Glass beads are the best as they will not dissolve when drycleaned. Beaded laces are a little more expensive than laces that have sequins. Sequins are used as fill-ins which will keep the lace at a more reasonable price. If you are doing your own beading, do the highlights with beads and fill-in the larger areas with sequins.
Only bead for a maximum of four hours at a time and look to the distance every 15 minutes to re-focus your eyes. Latest in style The latest fashion accents for wedding gowns are interesting straps and one-shoulder styles. This is a much better style for most as it stabilises the garment and helps to hold the garment up and in place. These trims are perfect for straps, plus many other places such as under the bust on an empire-line 52
gown. The ever popular retro fashion is a trend that never seems to fade away because of its classic hourglass, elegant look. Waistlines are the main area of interest so these trims make excellent belts to highlight the waistline. See photo 7.
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Simplicity or WOW factor Even though a wedding is such a very special day some brides just want simplicity, so a single centre-front feature is all that they desire. See photo 8. Other brides just cannot get enough WOW factor so an all-over lace that is 137cm wide with a double-edge scallop with lots of bling is what we have for them. See photo 9.
Guipure lace Guipure lace is making a huge comeback. For the bride looking for a lace just like their mother or grandmother wore – guipure lace is usually the look that they are after. Guipure lace is made from cotton and rayon and has a heavier appearance. This lace can be cut and moulded to the body or built up to get a 3D appearance. Any shape can be created using guipure lace. Beads can also be added. See photo 10.
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Coloured lace Ninety percent of laces are able to be dyed any colour that you are looking for. Nylon, cotton and rayon will all dye very well. Polyester is much harder to dye as it will not accept the colour readily. If you use a strong colour you will end up with a pastel colour. I suggest dyeing the lace first and then matching the linings. It is better if the lining colour is a little different from the lace colour so the lace stands out – with an exact match the lace will fade into the lining colour.
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All laces are available from Kerryn’s Fabric World whilst stocks last. Kerryn’s Fabric World, 19 Trinder Ave, Maroochydore, Qld 4558. Phone: (07) 5443 1360 Email:
[email protected] Website: www.kerrynsfabricworld.com Wedding Gown made by Fran 53
Kerryn’s Fabric World WINTER SALE ENTIRE WINTER RANGE IS IN STORE NOW
www.kerrynsfabricworld.com 19 Tri rind nder er Ave ve,, Ma Marroo ooch chyd ydor ore e Ql Qld d 45 4558 58 Ph (07) 5443 1360 Email
[email protected]
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Latest Pattern Patter n Trends Trends . 0 6 – 4 4 : s e z i s s ' n e m o W . s y e s r e j , s t i n k e s o o L
: s g n i g g e l
By Eddi Frantz – Burda Style
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: s s e r d 5 0 0 7
& t s e V 3 0 0 7
. 0 6 – 4 4 : s e z i s s ' n e m o W . s y e s r e j , s t i n K
: s g n i g g e l & c i n u T 3 0 0 7
7032 Tunic blouse:
Cotton or linen. Women's sizes: 44 – 54.
oft sell Burda Style patterns at www.simplicity.com
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Here at Astratex we provide Melbourne, and Australia wide with Exquisite European Fabric Sourced from the designer houses of Europe, and our NEW collection will not disappoint! New Fab Fabric ric in sto store, re, Fab Fabulo ulous us Woo ools, ls, Gorgeous Silks, Stunning Cottons and Jerseys that are beautiful! Visit us @www.astratex.com.au @ www.astratex.com.au or call for swatches. Our skilled, Creative and helpful staff will assist with style – to advise and inspire. We Also Offer: Workshops orkshops,, Courses Cours es and In hou house se Dr Dress essmak making ing – Stoc S tockis kistt of Vogue Patterns
NEW WINTER RANGE NOW JUST ARRIVED IN STORE
Shop Trading Hours: Mon-Fri 10am - 5:00pm Sat 10am - 5pm See our website for samples, new arrivals and events @ Astratex (formerly Artextil)
Visit us in our beautiful new shop @ 273 Swan Street, Richmond
Visit us @ www.astratex.com.au
Technically Speaking
In-seam Pockets By Alison Wheeler
This series of articles focuses on various areas of garment construction, offering different methods to those detailed in the pattern guide sheet. The ability to personalise garments is a great benefit of being able to sew. Adding in-seam pockets can provide both functional and decorative elements to many garments. Inseam pockets can be incorporated in a new garment or added to an existing garment. 1
When deciding to add an in-seam pocket, consider the most comfortable and useable placement position and the weight of the garment fabric. Pattern pieces provided for in-seam pockets in dresses or jackets, see photo 1, usually state ‘Cut 4’ from garment fabric. If the fabric is heavier, for example in a jacket or coat, it is good idea to cut two from the garment fabric and two from a lighter weight fabric. This will reduce bulk in the pocket area. The garment fabric piece is the underpocket and the lighter fabric, the upperpocket. See photos 2 and 3. When the pocket is placed in vertical seams, place your hand at a comfortable level and mark the width of your palm. See photo 4. Add approximately 5cm (2in) to that width and mark the top and bottom points of the proposed pocket opening.
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To construct the pocket: stitch the upper-pocket bag to the front of the garment, and the under-pocket bag to the back of the garment. Using a 6mm (¼in) seam allowance when attaching the pocket bag pieces allows the pocket to be recessed into the seam and gives a much smoother appearance to the finished pocket. See photos 5 and 6. Stitch the seam to the top and bottom opening points of the pocket and continue the stitching to close the pocket bag. See photos 7 and 8. To strengthen the pocket bag, either overlock the raw edges or use bias binding. If using binding, press the binding in half and into a curved shape so that it will easily fit over the raw edges of the pocket bag to be stitched in place. See photo 9.
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The seams above and below the pocket opening can be pressed open. When including in-seam pockets in pants or skirts, extending the pocket bag so that it can be attached at the waist seam will keep the pocket in place while the garment is being worn. See photo 10. Another use of the in-seam pocket is to add a fob pocket in pants or a skirt or below the yoke of a jacket or shirt. These pockets are great for holding a credit card or bus ticket and, for the golfers to hold a marker. The pocket can be made to measure for its intended use. To make the pocket, decide the width of the opening and depth of the pocket. See photo 11. Mark the opening area on the top edges of pocket bag pieces and garment pieces.
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With right sides together, stitch the upper-pocket piece to the upper edge of the garment piece (eg. skirt, pants, lower bodice). Stitch the under-pocket piece to the lower edge of the waistand/yoke. See photo 12. When stitching, begin and end stitching just in the opening area. Clip to the corners of the upper-pocket section and trim the seams before pressing to the wrong side and understitching the top edge. See photo 13. Pin the two garment sections together, carefully matching the end points of the pocket opening. Stitch out from either end of the opening when completing the seams on either side of the pocket. See photo 14. Press the seam towards the top of the garment. Stitch the pocket bag closed. See photo 15.
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Final Word
A Place in Your Life By Barbara Emodi
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he question is what place does sewing have in your life? To me, this may be the only question, although one with many answers.
It has already been established, in this column and elsewhere, that if you don’t sew you can still be dressed. Transforming what is on the sheep to what’s on your back, because there is no other option, is no longer the issue. We sew not because we have to, or even because we can, but because we want to.
In this current world where no one really needs to sew, it is particularly important we do it. The fact is that when we pick up a pattern we are downing tools, the ones other people have handed us, and making one of the few pure choices we have. The decision to make something for ourselves, with your own selection of shape, colour and texture is an act of self-creation and self-determination that can be found in few other places.
It’s the ‘want to’ that I want to talk about today. Doing what you really want, or feel like, is something that gets lost in the lives of many modern women. The truth is the have-to-do list keeps growing. More duties, obligations, commitments and things we are told we should do just to be ‘our best selves’ are being added to our agenda every day – without anything being removed. It just doesn’t stop! The days when just knowing how to cook a roast on Sundays and knowing when to tell the kids to go out and play were all that was expected are long gone. The times when ‘career women’ were obliged to look chic and maintain no more than a date book are gone too. Instead, we are bombarded by more articles than we have time to read on how to maintain work/life balance – although the most those offer is the suggestion to write ‘me time’ down so we don’t forget it – someplace where we have a space in the agenda, like say 6:00 – 6:15am on Thursdays. We are not even supposed to sit down any more to recover, at least not when we could be upright at a standing desk, multi-tasking while we write that report, put the husband on speaker phone, text the kids and practice our pelvic lift and holds, fully mindful in the moment. Give me a break! 60
It is also a connection across geographies, time and cultures. When I decide what buttons to use I may reach for my grandmother’s button jars – once a
testament to her frugality, now an opportunity for me to sew vintage. My hands sew on what hers cut free, and saved, for me. When my daughter pauses between her nursing shifts in a paediatric oncology ward and checks her Instagram photos for glimpses of other fabric stashes and sewing rooms it puts a smile on her face, and someone who needs it sees that smile.
Quality Knitwit fabrics delivered to your door
And as for the schedule, my sewing room is the land where time forgot. It’s not ‘finding myself’ I do there, but losing myself that counts.
Have you been finding it difficult to get hold of good quality knit and stretch fabrics? Well you’re not alone – from what I hear, it’s the same all over Australia.
Wend y Gager
Who has not nicked into the sewing room for ‘just a minute’ and stayed there till midnight? Who has not walked by that garment on the table and picked up the seam ripper and made an unexpected save? Who has not been lifted by the colour of the fabric on an otherwise grey day, like a plant that has been finally watered? Who has not been restored again and again by the miraculous ability of their own hands to turn flat fabric into something terrific and in the process realised the person who will wear it is pretty terrific too? Who has not been rejuvenated and refreshed by the marvellous sight of seam lines smooth against a sleeve roll, the beauty of a line of stitches, the zipper that meets perfectly at the top?
Hopefully this will help – a mail order service based at our Knitwit store in Perth which has over 650 bolts of top quality Knitwit knit and stretch fabric, including the legendary Knitwit basics like Monaco double knit, Dunedinrugbyknit,Treviribbedknit,Biancamercerised cotton knit and many more.
Special Offer to Readers of Stitches Magazine If you would like to learn more about what Knitwit has to offer these days, I can send you full details, plus I can send you a FREE introductory set of Knitwit seasonal swatches- a currentseasonalfabricportfoliocontaining 32 actual fabric swatches. I can also send you FREE sets of swatches of all the colours of a selection of our Knitwit basic plain fabrics.
These are not experiences those who can have them, should miss.
Knitwit E-mail Alerts Would you like to receive a Knitwit Alert email whenever new fabrics are added to our web site? If you would like to receive Knitwit Alert e-mails in future, please use this coupon or a copy.
So take time out, but call it time in. The world won’t end. Someone else will cook supper, that email you were going to send Sunday can be sent and read Monday. Life was not meant to be prescriptive, with prizes for those who followed the instructions most closely, but descriptive – a record of where we are, what we see and how we feel. And the more fully engaged we are in doing that, with as many senses, and with as much creativity as we can bring to the moment, the more we are able to provide a centre, not just to our own lives, but to others too. To my mind what the world needs most right now is happy people, folks who are fulfilled by what they do, get a kick out of their activities, and understand that the best way to feel good about who they are is just to make something. So check in by checking out ... and sew!
Limited FREE Introductory Offer Knitwit Swatches YES Please send me Knitwit Alert e-mails (not more than monthly) when you have new knit and stretch fabrics on your web site . d t L y t P x e t o v i R f o k r a m e d a r t d e r e t s i g e r a s i t i w t i n K . d t L y t P x e t o v i R ©
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YES Please send me my FREE introductory set of Knitwit mail order swatches
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Knitwit, Reply Paid 66099, 4/142 Stirling Highway, NEDLANDS WA 6009
FAX (08) 9389 1777
Or submit request online at
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Australia’s source of quality knit and stretch fabrics
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BOOK 500 TIME-TESTED HOME REMEDIES and the Science Behind Them By Linda B White M.D Look no further! Try these timeless treatments supported by cutting-edge science! From insect bites, insomnia, and upset stomach to nasal congestion, stress and heart health, this comprehensive guide offers easy, effective recipes to strengthen your resistance to illness, ease aches and pains and manage minor ailments naturally. The authors explain the science behind these remedies, debunk common myths, and let you know when to call the doctor. In addition, they provide a blueprint of wellness for you and your family. This book’s 500 recipes contain readily available, inexpensive and safe ingredients – many that you will find within your cupboards or at the grocery store. RRP: $29.99 ISBN: 978-1-59233-575-6 Publisher: Fair Winds Press
DELIGHT IN THE ART OF COLLAGE By Lisa M Pace Delight in the details! Add a bit of vintage detail to your collage work! In Delight in the Art Collage, you will learn an abundance of mixed-media techniques that will lead you stepby-step through 40 vintage-inspired projects! Inside, you’ll find projects that focus on textiles, metal, paper, beeswax and more. You will follow along with step-bystep instruction for beautiful creations such as: background of lace and doilies transferred metal embellishments RRP: $34.99 ISBN: 978-1-4403-2853-4 Publisher: North Light Books 62
REVIEWS RUSTIC MODERN CROCHET – 18 designs inspired by nature
By Yumiko Alexander Enjoy these eighteen clean, sophisticated crochet designs. The garments feature eye-catching construction based on very simple lines that come together in unexpected ways. Stitch patterns have central focus here, as the silhouettes or All pieces are versatile enough that they can be dressed up or down according to your need. Inspiration has been taken from the natural world – tideswept sand, shells, coral, shale rock formations, the colours of sunset. These designs will appeal to crocheters seeking for a more upscale look in their garments. Rustic Modern Crochet features designs in subtle earth tones and warm sunset hues that hold a cross-generational appeal. RRP: $29.99 ISBN: 978-1-59668-736-3 Publisher: Interweave
All these book are distributed in Australia by Capricorn Link. For wholesale enquiries contact
[email protected] Available from all good book shops.
A SEWN VINTAGE LIFESTYLE – 20 pieced and appliqued projects for quilts, bags and more By Verna Mosquera Sew beautiful projects you’ll love to use! Create 20 charming projects perfect for your lifestyle using patchwork, applique and embroidery techniques, all illustrated by pattern and fabric designer Verna Mosquera. Let Verna guide you through the process and projects so you can start creating a handmade lifestyle all your own! RRP: $39.99 ISBN: 978-1-4402-3042-4 Publisher: David & Charles 63
SEWING MACHINE RETAILERS
• 5000 bolts of fabric • Quilting classes everyday except Monday: 9.30am – 12.30pm
5 3 _ 1 0 0 2 T S
147 Queen Street (spotlight plaza), Campbelltown NSW 2560 Email:
[email protected]
Phone/Fax: (02) 4628 4437
• 5000 bolts of fabric • Quilting classes everyday except Monday: 9.30am – 12.30pm
0 1 _ 1 0 0 2 T S
147 Queen Street (spotlight plaza), Campbelltown NSW 2560 Email:
[email protected]
Phone/Fax: (02) 4628 4437
NEXT ISSUE
Get The Look Workout Style By Eddi Frantz –
In-seam & Patch Pockets By Alison Wheeler The Inverted Triangle compiled by Lynn Cook The Kaftan By Kerryn Swan Final Word With Barbara Emodi Colourblocking By Judith Turner Behind The Seams By Cate Purcell The Latest Fabric and Pattern Trends All this and more
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Emerald Fabric Boutique GOOD OLD FASHIONED COUNTRY SERVICE
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range of knit fabrics
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Dressmaking patterns include Vogue, McCalls, Butterick, Kwik Sew, Simplicity, Burda & New Look. Ø Dressmaking & patchwork classes Ø
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