au10__1_hb_cut_ALongLay_ss_v2

HeadBlock Basics a step by step guide from Stacey Broughton

A-Line Long Layered Shape

Registered in England & Wales No. 6366273

Registered Office: 10 Overcliffe, Gravesend, Kent DA11 0EF,UK

A-Line Long Layered Shape HeadBlock Basics—August 2010

Step by Step—p1

Welcome to HeadBlock Basics This area of learning has been designed as an entry platform, an educators training tool and for a true understanding of the principles of cutting hair. Headblocks are used globally as teaching tools because of many factors including convenience of time allowing for a natural learning pace. 90% of students use head blocks as their start point into our profession or to try something new.

About Stacey Directional, inspirational work comes as standard from Stacey who has further liberated his skills at myhairdressers.com, after many years as Creative Director of the Vidal Sassoon Advanced Academy.

Find out more about Stacey on our website.

This is a simple A-Line long-layered shape on a headblock, starting with the interior shape first and working vertically from front hairline to nape area. Watch my positioning of body, fingers and hair sections with regard to direction and over-direction to create this soft, fluid and light shape. Understanding this will lead to a greater understanding of layering. Stacey Broughton

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In each of our HeadBlock step-by-step guides you will also find accompanying Head Sheets in the Appendix at the back of the guide.

Use this step-by-step guide as a supplement to our online HeadBlock Basics video...

© My Hairdressers Ltd


Step by Step—p2

Before You will re-cut your previously cut onelength bob on your head block making good use of this resource.

Step 1 Sectioning pattern Separate the hair into four quarters from the crown. Take one section from the top of the ear across the crown and another from the centre front to the centre nape.

Step 2 Take a fine section along one side of the central dissecting line all the way through to the nape from the front. Then re-pin the sections.



Step by Step—p3

Step 3 Elevate the hair and cut a line slightly angled towards the crown in the front. As you proceed over the crown, the angle of your fingers should be more in alignment with the head shape. As you work into the nape your fingers are angled away from the nape.

Step 4 Continue with parallel sections on the righthand side for three to four sections depending on hair type. Note: after each section is defined you should re-pin the hair for ease.

Step 5 Repeat this process on the left-hand side.



Step by Step—p4

Step 6 Cross-check your work in the opposite direction using the same angles.

Step 7 You should now have two small sections on either side of the head. Connect the initial side into the interior shape using overdirection and the previous section as a guide.

Step 8 Repeat this process on the second side. Points to watch: 1. Ensure over-direction to the previous guide. 2. Ensure correct and consistent finger angles. 3. Ensure over-direction in the hairline area to retain length. 4. Split the sections into manageable pieces. 5. When cross-checking ensure that you work to your original angle.



Step by Step—p5

Step 9 You will now proceed to cut the outline shape.

Step 10 Continue with parallel sections up to the parting. As you progress up to the round of the head, elevate the sections to facilitate a bevel on the outline. Note: as Stacey proceeds he eventually runs put of hair due to his previous layering process.

Step 11 Next refine the corner over the outline. This will achieve a light internal shape with a bevelled weighty outline



Step by Step—p6

Step 12 Blow dry the hair.

Step 13 Once dry, check the internal shape paying attention to the internal fringe area. Be mindful of establishing the same bevel throughout the shape.

Step 14 Points to watch: 1. Ensure sections are even and mirror the cutting outline shape.



Step by Step—p7

Step 15 2. Assess correct amount of elevation to accommodate the desired bevel.

Step 16 3. Take care to be precise and measured when refining the corner.

Finish Next, check your work using a strand from the top of the completed sections on both sides. Be aware of growth patterns in the hair.



Step by Step—p8

Head Sheet Diagram A

Sectioning Separate the hair into four quarters from the crown. Take one section from the top of the ear across the crown and another from the centre front to the centre nape. [step 1]



Step by Step—p9

Head Sheet Diagram B

Internal Layering Take a fine section along one side of the central dissecting line all the way through to the nape from the front. Then re-pin the sections. [step 2]



Step by Step—p10

Head Sheet Diagram C

Internal Layering Elevate the hair and cut a line slightly angled towards the crown in the front. As you proceed over the crown, the angle of your fingers should be more in alignment with the head shape. As you work into the nape your fingers are angled away from the nape. [step 3]



Step by Step—p11

Head Sheet Diagram D

Internal Layering Continue with parallel sections on the right-hand side for three to four sections depending on hair type. [step 4]



Step by Step—p12

Head Sheet Diagram E

Internal Layering Connect the initial side into the interior shape using over-direction and the previous section as a guide. [step 7]



Step by Step—p13

Head Sheet Diagram F

Outline Shape The outline shape. [step 9]



Step by Step—p14

Head Sheet Diagram G

Rounding Internal Corner Refine the corner over the outline. This will achieve a light internal shape with a bevelled weighty outline [step 11]


My Hairdressers Limited T +44 (0) 207 0789 807 E [email protected] W www.myhairdressers.com

Registered in England & Wales No. 6366273

Registered Office: 10 Overcliffe, Gravesend, Kent DA11 0EF,UK

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