Arduino Controlled CNC 3D Printer

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Arduino Controlled CNC / 3D Printer Hybrid by aldricnegrier aldricnegrier on on December 23, 2013

Table of Contents Arduino Controlled CNC / 3D Printer Hybrid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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Intro: Arduino Controlled Controlled CNC / 3D Printer Printer Hybrid Hybrid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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Step 1: The BuildersBot BuildersBot OpenDesign OpenDesign (Sketchup) (Sketchup) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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Step 2: List of Materials and and Costs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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Step 3: Understanding the 3 Dimensional Dimensional Cartesian Coordinate Coordinate System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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Step 4: The BuildersBot BuildersBot Stainless Steel Frame Frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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Step 5: 5: Y Axis - Guide Guide System System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Step 6: 6: X Axis - Guide Guide System System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Step 7: Y Axis - Transmission Transmission System System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Step 8: X Axis - Transmission Transmission System System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Step 9: Z Axis Guide and Transmission System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Step 10: The temporary temporary CNC CNC Be Bed d Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Step 11: The Electronics Enclosure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Step 12: Wiring the Electronics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Step 13: Stepper motor motor Installation Installation - Red Red Theme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Step 14: CNC Routing Capabilities, Capabilities, Repetability Repetability and Resolution Resolution . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Step 15: 3D Printing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Step 16: Configuring Repetier Repetier Firmware Firmware for Arduino Mega 2560 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Step 17: Repetier Host Host Software Configuration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Step 18: BuildersBot LED's . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Controlled-CNC-3D-Printer/

Author:aldricnegrier reprapalgarve Aldric Negrier

Intro: Arduino Controlled CNC / 3D Printer Hybrid Mother Nature Makes ... We Build. Build. BuildersBot Fuses 3D Printing & CNC Milling Into One Builder’s Dream "3dprintingindustry.com" The BuilderBot is an Open Design machine, that uses Open Software and Open Hardware. It is a product of open projects such as the RepRap, Arduino and Repetier . The objective of this instructable is to guide your way throw the entire making process of building a BuildersBot machine. An open design Arduino Controlled CNC Router that can also perform 3D printing. The instructions will cover all areas such as design, mechanics, electronics and software. But before you go any further take a look at machine's concept design: And also the machine build photos and the machine in action: Finally check out the insane effects of the RGB led's on BuildersBot: Warning Viewer Discretion Advised (Strong Language)

Step 1: The 1: The BuildersBot OpenDesign (Sketchup) To view the the machine in 3D just Download Download the the attached sketch file and access the BuildersBot OpenSource Design (in metric system and is in 1 by 1 scale). Use this design as much as possible for guidance during this instructable. NOTE: Use trimble/google sketchup to open the file.


Author:aldricnegrier reprapalgarve Aldric Negrier

Intro: Arduino Controlled CNC / 3D Printer Hybrid Mother Nature Makes ... We Build. Build. BuildersBot Fuses 3D Printing & CNC Milling Into One Builder’s Dream "3dprintingindustry.com" The BuilderBot is an Open Design machine, that uses Open Software and Open Hardware. It is a product of open projects such as the RepRap, Arduino and Repetier . The objective of this instructable is to guide your way throw the entire making process of building a BuildersBot machine. An open design Arduino Controlled CNC Router that can also perform 3D printing. The instructions will cover all areas such as design, mechanics, electronics and software. But before you go any further take a look at machine's concept design: And also the machine build photos and the machine in action: Finally check out the insane effects of the RGB led's on BuildersBot: Warning Viewer Discretion Advised (Strong Language)

Step 1: The 1: The BuildersBot OpenDesign (Sketchup) To view the the machine in 3D just Download Download the the attached sketch file and access the BuildersBot OpenSource Design (in metric system and is in 1 by 1 scale). Use this design as much as possible for guidance during this instructable. NOTE: Use trimble/google sketchup to open the file.


File Downloads

BuilderBotV8.skp (13 BuilderBotV8.skp (13 MB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'BuilderBotV8.skp']

Step 2: List 2: List of Materials and Costs In order to build a BuildersBot you will need the following list of "ingredients": "ingredients": 8 - SBR20UU CNC Linear Ball Bearing Support - 35€ 4 - SBR16UU CNC Linear Ball Bearing Support - 20€ 1 - Ballscrew with Fitted Anti Backlash Ballnut RM1605-C7: 350mm - 100€ 1 - XD Coupling 25mm X 30mm Bore Size: 8mm to 12mm - 10€ 3 - Motor coupling Bore Size: 8mm to 6mm - 15€ 2 - SFC16 Precision ground round shaft with support (16 mm) - 30€ 2 - SFC20 Precision ground round with shaft support (20 mm) - 70€ 2 - SFC20 Precision ground round shaft with support (20 mm) - 60€ 3 - Timing Belt 1790-5M-15 - 45€ 1 - Shielded Ball Bearing 686-ZZ (Pack of 10) - 20€ 6 - Metric Timing Pulley - 35€ 1 - 15mm Aluminum plate - 50€ 1 - Kress Milling Spindle 1050W - 150€ 1 - 43mm Euro Neck Spindle Mount, Bracket Clamp for Kress Milling Spindle - 35€ 1 - 4 Nema 23 Stepper Motor 425oz + 4 microstepping Driver + Power Sup - 255€ 1 - MIG Welded Stainless steal frame 125€ 1 - Stainless Steal marine grade screws, washer, nuts etc - 50€ 1 - 10mm Acrylic Case - 50 € 1 - Arduino Mega + Ramps 1.4 Board + LCD- 100€ 1 - 12V power supply - 15€ 1 - Complete Greg's extruder J-head hot end + motor + ABS extruder + endtops + hotbed - 100€ 1 - Lock tight + lubricant + paint - 35€ 1 - Wires, cables, tubs, connectors, plugs - 20€ 2 - Low noise fans - 15€ 1 - MDF board for the BuilderBot Bed - 15€ 1 - 5 Meter RGB LED Stip - 30€ The total approximate cost of these items is around 1485€


Step 3: Understanding 3: Understanding the 3 Dimensional Cartesian Coordinate System "The 3 dimensional Cartesian coordinate system consists of three number lines, labelled X, Y and Z, set at 90 degree angles to each other. The origin, is where the three axes cross each other." 3D ... duh :) duh :)

The Buildersot works/moves within a 3 dimensional Cartesian coordinate System, allowing the machine to position its tool (drill bit or hot end) in any location inside the 3 dimensional work space. The X axis will move the tool from left to right, the Y axis will move the tool from back to forth and finally the Z axis will move the tool up and down inside the work area. In summary: The summary: The 3 dimensional work space is mapped using XYZ coordinates, this means that we can precisely control the position of the tool holder inside the work space.


Step 4: The BuildersBot Stainless Steel Frame The objective: Build a frame made from rectangular and square stainless steel tubes. Items needed: The frame is composed by 11 stainless steel parts (for dimensions consult the 3d open design). 4 - rectangular tubes on the bottom of the chassis 4 - square tubs positioned vertically 3 - rectangular tubes on the top frame Tools needed: - TIG welder - Angle grinder and cutting tool - Drill machine - Carbide drill bit ( 6.5mm ) Instructions: 1- Using a cutting tool: - Cut 2 stainless steel rectangular tube with 50x20x750mm that will function as the bottom vertices of the frame - Cut 2 stainless steel rectangular tube with 50x20x750mm that will function as the bottom vertices of the frame - Cut 4 stainless steel square tubs with 50X50x250mm that will function as the vertical pillars of the frame - Cut 1 rectangular stainless steel tube with 60x20x750mm (that will function as the bottom vertices of the frame) - Cut 2 rectangular stainless steel tube with 60x20x750mm (that will function as the bottom vertices of the frame) 2 - Tap and drill 12 holes with 6.5mm diameter in both upper parallel rails (according to the position of the holes of the calibrated rail supports) (for distances consult the 3d sketch). 3 - Weld the 4 rectangular tubs that make the bottom frame. Be careful to align the tubes perfectly. Next weld the 4 vertical columns, and finally the 3 renaming top tubes that from an open frame. 4 - After welding all the tubes together, use angle grinder to trim the excess weld from the welding points. 5 - Clean the chassis with special acid for stainless steal , and finally polish it with any appropriate material.







Step 5: Y Axis - Guide System The objective: Equip the BuildersBot with a guide to minimize The Y axis guide system is composed by two parallel supported round rails. A round rail provides the linear guide path for bearing blocks to traverse along its length. This type of rail has precision tolerances is around 0.1mm per meter. The support of the rail is made from aluminum. Items needed: 4 - SBR20UU Linear Ball Bearing Support, two for each rail 2 - 20mm diameter 700mm length sported round rails 28 - 6mm screws with 33mm length 28 - auto lock nuts 2 - sleeves of ultralearther Tools needed: - Screw driver - Open wrench - Level meter - Ruler Instructions: To avoid propagation of vibration in the structure, isolate the stainless steel chassis from the aluminum rail support using some type of rubber (i used synthetic ultraleather). Possition the round rail guides on top of the ultraleather and align the holes, then screw them in place, carefully align the 2 round rail's parallel to each other before final


tightening, also try to adjust the level by adjusting the force on the screws. Be patient and try to achieve perfect alignment using a level meter and a ruller.


Step 6: X Axis - Guide System The objective: The X axis guide system is composed by two parallel supported round rails one under the other. In between the two supported rails are two L shaped 15mm aluminum plates(dimensions in sketchup file). These plates have 6.5mm holes in them in order to attache to the supported rails and also to the bearing block of the y axis (4 6.5mm holes for each bearing). Items needed: 4 - SBR20UU Linear Ball Bearing blocks, two each side, 2 - 20mm diameter 600mm length sported round rails 24 - 6mm crews with 33mm length 24 - lock nuts. Tools needed: - Screw driver - Open wrench - Level meter - Ruler Instructions: Before mounting the X Axis on top of the Y Axis, you need to insert 4 leaner bearing blocks on to the round rails, as shown in the figures. Attach the round rail guides on top of the chssis and screw them in place, carefully align the 2 round rail's parallel to each and perfectly perpendicular to the Y axis other before final tightening.




Step 7: Y Axis - Transmission System The objective: The Y Axis transmission system is composed by a Timing Belt and Pulleys System. The Y Axis transmission system drives the the the tool holder up and down. The implementation used is a paired transmission system, this means that there are 2 Timing belts and 4 pulleys to drive the Y axis back and forth. The System implemented has no reduction, these means that the driving pulley is the same diameter as the i dler pulley. I have no performance problems with this setup. Items needed: 2 - 1790-5M-15 Timing Belt 8 - 686-ZZ Shielded Ball Bearing 4 - 20-5M-15 Metric Timing Pulley 4 - Aluminum U shaped pulley support 4 - M6 calibrated shafts for the pulleys 12 - 4M Grub screws ( for the pulley ) 2 - Motor couppling Tools needed: - Drill machine - Screw tapper kit (5mm male drill) - Angle grinder Instructions: - Prepare the pulleys by tapping M4 male screw (3 holes spaced by 120 degrees) - Insert 3 4M grub screw in the tapped holes - Drill a hole in the center of the pulley to allow the shaft to pass (6mm diameter hole) - Make bearing housing inside the aluminum U shapes using a manual router end mill - Insert the bearings inside the housings - Mount the aluminum U shaped bearing housing on to the frame - Tighten the belt around the 2 pulleys and lock them in position with good tension - Attach motor coupling to pulley shaft




Step 8: X Axis - Transmission System The objective: The X Axis transmission system is composed by a Timing Belt and Pulleys System. The X Axis transmission system drives the tool holder left and right. The System implemented has no reduction, these means that the driving pulley is the same diameter as the idler pulley. I have no performance problems with this setup. Items needed: 2 - 1790-5M-15 Timing Belt 8 - 686-ZZ Shielded Ball Bearing 4 - 20-5M-15 Metric Timing Pulley 4 - Aluminum U shaped pulley support 4 - M6 calibrated shafts for the pulleys 12 - 4M Grub screws ( for the pulley ) Tools needed: - Drill machine - Screw tapper kit (5mm male drill) - Angle grinder Instructions: - Prepare the pulleys by tapping M4 male screw (3 holes spaced by 120 degrees) - Insert 3 4M grub screw in the tapped holes - Drill a hole in the center of the pulley to allow the shaft to pass (6mm diameter hole) - Make bearing housing inside the aluminum U shapes using a manual router end mill - Insert the bearings inside the housings - Mount the aluminum U shaped bearing housing on to the frame - Tighten the belt around the 2 pulleys and lock them in position with good tension - Attach motor coupling to pulley shaft


Step 9: Z Axis Guide and Transmission System The objective: The Z axis used in this machine has an unorthodox guide and transmission system. The guide system is mounted in a way that it will allow the Z axis to have 22 cm range. This is quite a big value for small CNC as this one, but it was built in purpose to allow for 3D printing big object. When the CNC is in action the CNC bed is risen to the appropriate height. Items needed: 3 - 15mm Aluminum plates (for sizes please consult the sketchup design) 2 - Supported round rails (16mm) 1 - Ballscrew with Fitted Anti Backlash Ballnut 1605-C7: 350mm Total Length 4 - SBR16UU Bearing blocks 2 - 20mm bearings 1 - Coupling 25mm X 30mm ( Bore Size: 8mm to 12mm) 1 - Costume made part to attache the Ballnut to the X Axis "bearing wall" Instructions: - Cut the 15mm aluminum plate according the sketchup design. As a result you will have 2 small blocks an 1 bigger block of aluminum plate. - Tap 6.5mm holes in the aluminum according to the design - Than attach the round rails with support onto the bigger aluminum plate - Insert the bearing into the housings of the smaller aluminum plates - Position the ball-screw and ball nut in between the supported round rails and inside the bearings - Calibrate the alignment of the rails and the ball-screw







Step 10: The temporary CNC Bed Plate The objective: Build a work area for the Builderbot. The CNC bed plate is made out of 2 MDF boards 20mm tick each. They where glued together using wood glue and let to dry for a day or so. The bed was then drilled in a 10cm square matrix of M8 pecked holes. Note: Most MDF contains formaldehyde, this is a scientifically proven cancer causing agent. I don't recommend the use of MDF, i coated it thoroughly with varnish in order to isolate the material from the air in my workshop. As soon as i can i will change the bed with other type o wood, because i don't want to support this kind of materials. The bed can be placed in different heights depending on the material to mill or object to print.

Step 11: The Electronics Enclosure The objective: Build an enclosure for the electronics The BuildersBot electronics enclosure is made from 7 laser cut acrylic parts. All parts fit together to make the enclosure. The enclosure houses 4 Micro Stepping Drivers, three power supplies (36V, 36V and 12V) an Arduino Mega and a ramps 1.4 board and also 2 fans for cooling. Items needed: 2 - 70x50x5mm Acrylic sheets 2 - Cooling fans Tools needed: - laser cutting machine - Screw driver Instructions: The enclosure has rear holes for all exterior wire connections. All stepper drivers are mounted on a acrylic plate and positioned in the middle of the enclosure. The enclosure is closed using zip-ties. To enhance the enclosures visual presentation there are 4 blue LED's that li ght up the enclosure when power is on. The CAD file: Download the EletroboxV2.cdr CAD file in metric units.








File Downloads

EletroBoxV2.cdr (1 MB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'EletroBoxV2.cdr']

Step 12: Wiring the Electronics The objective: Wire the electronics Items needed: - 4 Nema 23 Motor dual shaft 425oz-in - 4 Driver 4.2A 128MicroDriver - 3 Power Supplies (36V, 36V and 12V) - 1 Arduino Mega - 1 Ramps 1.4 Board (for CNC milling and 3D printing) - Smart Controller LCD - 6 End Stops (3 Wires) - Solder Tools needed: - Soldering iron - screw driver - Wire cutter - Digital multimeter All the electric wiring can be done by following the attached diagram.


Step 13: Stepper motor Installation - Red Theme As you have may noticed in the final build photos the Builderbot has a red theme, the motor and the spindle where painted in red using height temperature spat paint. The cable carriers where also painted in red.


Step 14: CNC Routing Capabilities, Repetability and Resolution Repetier CNC functionalities and Limitations ( work in progress ): - Repetier firmware is able to interpret ARC Codes G2 and G3 - For my experience Repetier gcode interpreter does not recognize G83 (hole pecking function) - To be continued as i explore the limitations and functionalities of the firmware The BuildersBot technical CNC specs: - Kress Spindle - Working volume of 50x70x20 cm. - Precision (to be calculated as soon as i get the tools) Instructions for CNC Milling: This is the CNC work flow protocol I use: - Mount the Kress Spindle with a drill-bit no to the BuildersBot tool holder - Prepare and align the CNC bed in all 4 corners - Prepare the stock material to mill (Acrylic, wood, aluminium etc) - Secure the stock material in place - Turn the electronics power on - Turn the Repetier Software on - Home in the X and Y axis (according to stock material) - Manually home in the Z axis (according to stock material) - Load your GCode file into Repetier Software ( Generate a GCode File, using any CAM software ) - Turn the Spindle on - Adjust Speed on Repetier (speed rate) - Press Play to start milling CNC milling resolution, repeatability in 10 mm Acrylic sheet using 2mm depth passes:


- Using a digital clipper the measured repeatability error is in the range of 0.1 - 0.3 mm (photos)

Step 15: 3D Printing The objective: Fit the BuilderBot with an extruder and filament holder that will allow it to perform 3D Printing. This feature allows the printing of very big object (500x700x200 max volume) The Z axis allows the printing of height objects, and the idea is also allow the fitting or other extruders that will come out in the future, such as metal and cement printing. The extruder is mounted on the tip of the tool holder, it is a version of Greg's extruder and has a 0.5mm J-head hotend. It can be mounted or unmounted from the tool holder by simply unbolting 2 bolts. The cable connections connect the extruders motor, the fan, the hotend resistor and the thermistor.




Step 16: Configuring Repetier Firmware for Arduino Mega 2560 Repetier or Marlin Firmware for Arduino Mega implement G2 an G3 circular interpolation so they are good to use for CNC and 3D Printing. However they have limitations regarding pure CNC instructions such as pecking an other GCode's. Download and install Arduino IDE Here: http://arduino.cc/en/main/software Download and Repetier Firmware here: http://www.repetier.com/download/ Configuring the Repetier Firmware for CNC functionality: After installing Arduino IDE, open it and use it to open the Repetier Firmware you have just download (repetier.ino file). - Arduino IDE Tools Tab: SelectBoard -Arduino Megra 2560 or MEGA ADK - Navigate to the Configuration.h file and alter the following lines: #define NUM_EXTRUDER 0 #define MOTHERBOARD 33 #define XAXIS_STEPS_PER_MM 128 #define YAXIS_STEPS_PER_MM 128 #define ZAXIS_STEPS_PER_MM 2560 #define HAVE_HEATED_BED false #define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_X_MIN false #define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Y_MIN false #define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Z_MIN false #define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_X_MAX false #define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Y_MAX false #define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Z_MAX false #define ENDSTOP_X_MIN_INVERTING false #define ENDSTOP_Y_MIN_INVERTING false #define ENDSTOP_Z_MIN_INVERTING false #define ENDSTOP_X_MAX_INVERTING false #define ENDSTOP_Y_MAX_INVERTING false #define ENDSTOP_Z_MAX_INVERTING true #define MIN_HARDWARE_ENDSTOP_X true #define MIN_HARDWARE_ENDSTOP_Y true #define MIN_HARDWARE_ENDSTOP_Z true #define MAX_HARDWARE_ENDSTOP_X true #define MAX_HARDWARE_ENDSTOP_Y true #define MAX_HARDWARE_ENDSTOP_Z true #define Y_HOME_DIR -1 #define Z_HOME_DIR -1 #define max_software_endstop_x true #define max_software_endstop_y true #define max_software_endstop_z true #define ENDSTOP_X_BACK_MOVE 5 #define ENDSTOP_Y_BACK_MOVE 5 #define ENDSTOP_Z_BACK_MOVE 0 #define ENDSTOP_Y_RETEST_REDUCTION_FACTOR 2 #define ENDSTOP_Z_RETEST_REDUCTION_FACTOR 2 #define ALWAYS_CHECK_ENDSTOPS true #define X_MAX_LENGTH 500


#define Y_MAX_LENGTH 700 #define Z_MAX_LENGTH 200 #define MAX_FEEDRATE_X 200 #define MAX_FEEDRATE_Y 200 #define MAX_FEEDRATE_Z 5 #define HOMING_FEEDRATE_X 80 #define HOMING_FEEDRATE_Y 80 #define HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z 3 #define MAX_ACCELERATION_UNITS_PER_SQ_SECOND_X 1500 #define MAX_ACCELERATION_UNITS_PER_SQ_SECOND_Y 1500 #define MAX_ACCELERATION_UNITS_PER_SQ_SECOND_Z 100 #define MAX_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION_UNITS_PER_SQ_SECOND_X 3000 #define MAX_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION_UNITS_PER_SQ_SECOND_Y 3000 #define MAX_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION_UNITS_PER_SQ_SECOND_Z 100 Configuring the Repetier Firmware for 3D printing functionality: #define NUM_EXTRUDER 1 #define EXT0_STEPS_PER_MM 413 #define HAVE_HEATED_BED true // if ture or else false

Step 17: Repetier Host Software Configuration To use the CNC or 3D printer functionality you need to install Repetier Host Software. In order to do so, use the following like to download the latest version: http://www.repetier.com/download/ After installation open the Application and select Printer settings and make the following configurations: CNC functionality: - Connection Tab: Port: (press refresh and update select the port) Baud Rate:250000 - Printer Tab: Travel Feed Rate: 4000mm/min Z Axis Feed Rate: 200mm/min - Printer Shape Tab: Xmin: 0 mm Xmax: 500 mm Ymin: 0 mm Ymax: 700 mm


Peint Area Width: 500mm Print Area Depth: 700mm Print Area Height: 200mm 3D Printing functionality: - Connection Tab: Port: (press refresh and update select the port) Baud Rate:250000 - Printer Tab: Travel Feed Rate: 4000mm/min Z Axis Feed Rate: 200mm/min - Printer Shape Tab: Xmin: 0 mm Xmax: 500 mm Ymin: 0 mm Ymax: 600 mm Peint Area Width: 500mm Print Area Depth: 600mm Print Area Height: 200mm


Step 18: BuildersBot LED's The BuilderBot has a 5 meter 5050 SMD RGB led strip attached to the inferior part of the upper frame chassis. The led strip is glued using strong double sided tape. It serves the propose of lightning the BuildersBot workspace and also Pimping the machine to its max. Warning Viewer Discretion Advised (Strong Language) Warning Viewer Discretion Advised (Strong Language)



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sortiz palacio says:

Aug 17, 2014. 3:56 PM REPLY hi aldric, i am trying to build this amazing project, but i have some doubts about the electronic conections, because you just have a picture describing it, could you please explain a l ittle bit better that part? and a specific question, there are diferent types of RAMPS 1.4? thank you so much

aldricnegrier says:

Aug 18, 2014. 2:43 AM REPLY

Hi Sortiz, As someone once said, "an image is worth a thousand words", all the wire connections are present in the compact diagram. Anyway i will rewite the step in order to explain the sequence of wiring. There is only one RAMPS 1.4, you cant go wrong. Cheers,

alex.hall.3998263 says:

Aug 12, 2014. 12:40 PM REPLY Hello Aldric, I am trying to gather the materials to star this project, but i am having difficulty finding the rectangular metal piping of the correct sizes (60mm x 20mm). Is it possible to use different sizes and still have this design work properly? Thanks!

aldricnegrier says:

Aug 13, 2014. 11:10 AM REPLY

Hi Alex, yes of course, you can alter all the sizes to suit your needs. As long as they fit one onother.

mkoloff says:

Jul 29, 2014. 4:41 AM REPLY

Hi Aldirc First of all, congratulations on this brilliant project. I have a few questions still. - Do you have the plans for the plexiglass case? A file? - Could you mill the casing simultaneously with the CNC itself? - You know already more about the accuracy of the milling machine? - How to secure the timing belt of the individual axes on the machine? - Is there already a forum or website where you can exchange ideas in more detail to your project?We just clarify on whether we can rebuild your project. As a forum would be interesting not only for us. :-) - Can you also mill metal with the router?

aldricnegrier says:

Jul 31, 2014. 1:23 PM REPLY

Hello mkoloff, Thank you for your message. - I just uploaded the CAD file for the electronics enclosure (thanks for reminding). - You can easily mill acrylic (electronic enclosure) using the Buildersbot - I will upload a closeup photo of a 10mm acrylic Prusa i3 frame cut using the Buildersbot so you can see the precision. I haven't had time and instruments to measured it yet. - I just now noticed that i do not mention how to secure the timming belt to the aluminum structures of the machine. I will take some photos and make one more step in the instructuble to explain how it is done. - There is a topic on the buildersbot on RepRap forum search for "reprap forum buildersbot"


- I have milled aluminum (soft metal) with the machine with no problems. When i update the instructable i will give you a "heads up" so you can read the answers you are looking for. "See" you soon.

Silenzio76 says:

Jul 6, 2014. 3:51 AM REPLY

Hi, sorry but I don't undestand the length of the support can't be 800mm if the base is 750mm...

aldricnegrier says:

Jul 6, 2014. 6:29 AM REPLY

Hi, The long supported rails measure 700mm not 800mm as i mentioned, and the short 600mm instead of 700mm i mentioned. It is all in the shechup file. I will make the corrections to step 5 and 6. Thanks for the heads up.

Silenzio76 says:

Jul 7, 2014. 5:20 AM REPLY

TY for your kindness...But I cannot see the measurements on the sketchup file(opened via 3 or 4 different softwares) ..maybe I'm too new to those kind of things!.

aldricnegrier says:

Jul 8, 2014. 3:57 AM REPLY

Download and install "Trimble Sketchup" free version using the following link: http://www.sketchup.com/ Than download the BuildersbotV8.skp file. The final step is to open sketchup and select open file, navigate to the skp file and you will see the 3D design. Sketchup has a ruler on the menu, use it to measure all necessary distances. I hope you can get it, if not tell me, i can upload a ".3ds" file type.

Silenzio76 says:

Jul 8, 2014. 11:38 AM REPLY

ty, problem solved for me! Obrigado!

hmockupman says:

Jul 6, 2014. 4:13 AM REPLY

Hi,How can i choose the "save toolpaths" box on Art cam pro for export G code to Repetier host?

hmockupman says: Machine output file formatt.


Jul 6, 2014. 4:20 AM REPLY

aldricnegrier says:

Jul 6, 2014. 6:31 AM REPLY

Repetier uses G-Code, just open you G-Code in Repetier. File -> open (select G-Code File)

Silenzio76 says:

Jul 6, 2014. 4:02 AM REPLY

The other holes maked(on the and of the bases) are for what?

aldricnegrier says:

Jul 6, 2014. 6:30 AM REPLY

The 3 holes marked on the end of the tubes are for the idler pulley.

ntriaes says:

Jul 2, 2014. 8:39 AM REPLY Tutorial espectacular, estou a pensar em meter-me a fazer um projecto deste género, mas para aplicar a algo que não plano, há alguma possibilidade de se conseguir escavar digamos 3mm em madeira, numa superficie cilindrica? Pelo menos com este modelo?

aldricnegrier says:

Jul 2, 2014. 3:33 PM REPLY Boas :) não sei se percebi bem a pergunta, a maquina BuildersBot não tem função de torno, e essa função tambem não é suportado pelo software. Seria necessario mais um grau de liberdade.

ntriaes says:

Jul 4, 2014. 8:09 AM REPLY

obrigado, era mesmo isso que pretendia saber, se era possivel rodar ao longo de um cilindro, obrigado. Queria dar-lhe os parabéns, pois parece-me uma máquina excelente. Não tendo eu conhecimentos especificos de electrónica e programação, acha que serei capaz de montar uma máquina deste género? pelo que vejo o tutorial que apresenta é super detalhado e tem montes de sitios onde recorrer para software e tudo, mas acha possivel alguém sem conhecimentos especificos desta área fazer um projecto a ponto de funcionar, como o seu? é que gostava muito de montar algo assim.

aldricnegrier says:

Jul 4, 2014. 12:17 PM REPLY

Sem bases de eletrónica e programação vai ser difícil. O meu conselho é começar com uma impressora 3D por exemplo a Prusa i3, depois de montar uma Prusa i3 ai vai estar mais preparado para montar a BuildersBot.

nschreiber0813 says:

Jun 29, 2014. 4:42 PM REPLY I really like it. I like that it is so small and that it is arduino controlled. My only problem I have with it would be the video resolution and video song that is really annoying. I hope to build a 3d printer like it.

aldricnegrier says:

Jun 29, 2014. 6:55 PM REPLY

Sorry about the video resolution, i did it on the fly. More resolution would have been better. As for the music part, i agree with you, it is the best annoying music out there :) j ust joking, i respect your opinion. Not all tastes in music are the same, it could have been worse, i could have put "Brutal German Underground Dark Death Metal" or something in that genera :) Cheers,

znjofl says:

Jun 28, 2014. 8:29 AM REPLY

Is it possible to use Nema 17 stepper's instead of Nema 23 ?

aldricnegrier says:

Jun 29, 2014. 6:30 PM REPLY I don't know if it would work with Nema 17, this machine is massive, it weighs in at 60Kg - 70Kg, only the 4 motors weight in at 6Kg :) Maybe if you scale it down a bit some powerful Nema 17 would work, i don't know, just speculating.

xarlock667 says:

Jun 19, 2014. 8:38 PM REPLY Let me ask a stupid question. I have been watching 3-d printers for a bit now and no one seems able to make what I would consider to be a "Big" printer. Are dimensions of more than 1.5x1.5x1.5 meters not possible? Why are all the "Big" printers less than a meter in all axies?


RoyJackson says:

Jun 20, 2014. 2:45 AM REPLY I think it's only a question of printing time. Actual plastic printer take like 10 hours for a small piece of 15*15*15 centimeters.

aldricnegrier says:

Jun 20, 2014. 3:00 AM REPLY I agree, most commercial extruder's normal have 0.35 to 0.5 mm nozzle diameter, this automatically implies long printing times. In my opinion if you what to print big object you need a extruder with a wider nozzle, the quality will suffer but you get a big part printed out in less time.

jhall30 says:

Jun 26, 2014. 2:07 PM REPLY

I wonder if you could use a dual-extruder model, using a larger extruder for in-fill, and a smaller one for detail. Any thoughts on that?

aldricnegrier says:

Jun 26, 2014. 5:53 PM REPLY Great idea, even better than dual-extruders would be a motorized nozzle that could change the nozzle diameter mechanically, this is innovative, i will start working on the patent ... oops :)

ps9864 says:

Jun 25, 2014. 12:53 AM REPLY Hi I'm looking to build my own CNC. I couldn't find the following information (sorry might have missed it). What was your build cost and what is the precision of the machine? Thanks

aldricnegrier says:

Jun 25, 2014. 4:41 AM REPLY

Hello, The total cost is around 1500€, take a closer look at step 2 to see the items and respective costs in detail. Regarding precision, i will upload some photos some 3D printed items and CNC cut acrylic and aluminum.

ps9864 says:

Jun 25, 2014. 5:36 AM REPLY

Sorry my bad didn't see that - browser was messing up this morning :( Do you have a value for it? I am looking for something that is accurate to at least a 10th of a mm.

aldricnegrier says:

Jun 25, 2014. 7:16 AM REPLY

All is good. I am making Prusa i3 frames using 10mm Acrilic sheets, they look very nice, i will upload a photo with a digital calipers measuring one of the cuts, so we can see the error/resolution. I think its in the 0.1 mm range. I will give you a heads up as soon as i upload the photo.

ElectricBlue123 says:

Jun 23, 2014. 2:22 PM REPLY

is it possible to scale this to 6'by 6' by 8' ? / EPIC

aldricnegrier says:

Jun 24, 2014. 5:52 AM REPLY In my opinion, yes you can scale X and Y for as big as you want, just be careful with the Z axis. For CNC milling you need the Z axis close to the fixation points, for 3d printing you need to keep the mass "reasonably balanced". Did you mean 6' 6' by 8" ?


Jun 24, 2014. 12:00 PM REPLY

o sorry no not 6'6' by 8" its going to be 8' long by 6' wide and 6 foot tall sorry my bad


Jun 24, 2014. 12:00 PM REPLY

o sorry no not 6'6' by 8" its going to be 8' long by 6' wide and 6 foot tall sorry my bad

ElectricBlue123 says: o sorry no not 6'6' by 8" its going to be 8' long by 6' wide and 6 foot tall sorry my bad


Jun 24, 2014. 12:00 PM REPLY


Jun 24, 2014. 11:57 AM REPLY

yes and thank you i`m going to basic it off of yours and http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-your-own-CNC-milling-machine/ for the printer ( the best of both world ) but im still planning it

amekdala says:

Jun 22, 2014. 2:42 AM REPLY

awesome

aldricnegrier says:

Jun 22, 2014. 9:43 AM REPLY

Thank you ;)

blatantimage says:

Jun 20, 2014. 7:02 AM REPLY Excellent build! However.... MIG? Looks like TIG to me unless you had some Pulse short circuit on a MIG rig. .. I didn't see many jigs in the weld-up, wondering how you controlled the deflection and warpage- to NOT translate to backlash.

kidharris says:

Jun 21, 2014. 9:50 PM REPLY I was also wondering how he controlled warpage from welding and still maintain everything square, plumb, and flat. I can see in the 5th photo in the frame section that the bottom left leg is out of square, but it appears later on that was corrected. I don't see any adjustable parts anywhere, not even feet. I realize that he pre-drilled the rail mount holes so he could use his drill press, but that probably would not work for me, because I am sure that the rails wouldn't be in perfect alignment after I finished welding i t up. I would need the inherent adjustability available by drilling them after I did all the welding & tweaking of the frame. I've tried several times welding up frames and even with trying my best to control heat, tacking, stitch welding, using jigs, blah blah blah, I can never get it perfect. So, my questions would be just how flat is the top? and just how parallel are the 2 rails? How do you level it? If you've got some tips for welding better frames please put them in the Instructible. Also, for others wanting to do tube frames, if your application has much vibration you should know that tube frames ring like a bell and make vibration problems worse. This can be mitigated a lot by using heavier materials and by filling the tubes with sand, concrete, liquid rubber (latex paint), or a combination of all of the above. Google constrained layer damping. Basically anything that reduces noise is a good thing and usually reduces vibration and vice versa. Too much vibration causes a loss of precision and accuracy in your work and contributes to chattering and dulling of cutting tools.

aldricnegrier says:

Jun 22, 2014. 9:40 AM REPLY

Hi kidHarris, The bottom frame square was welded firs, using a 90 degree ruler, however after welding was finished the square was slightly bent out of shape (in the Z plane), to fix this problem a rubber hammer was used to hammer it in to a "better" position. The next step was to weld the 4 vertical pillars on the corners of the square bottom frame, this part was the most critical, many correction had to be made in order to get perfect alignment (90 degree angles in all 3 dimensional planes) here the use of the rubber hammer was also critical for millimeter alignments. After this step the per-drilled top U shaped piece was welded separately and aligned. And in the and the 2 pieces where welded together. In the end we measured all the distances and obtained errors less than 1mm. I don't know if it was luck or not but i think experience was fundamental, in welding and any other activity, perfection is obtained due to experience, the welder finished this task in under 2 hour (including polishing the frame). In the end the two mounted rails have and very small error, because the trick was to make 6.5mm holes in the frame and use 6mm screws, so you could adjust the angles. I put the X Axis on top o f the Y axis and pushed the structure to the Ymin position and moved it to Ymax position several times, and during this process i tightened the Y Axis rails screws. So the trick is to use the X Axis structure to align the Y Axis rail angles. The leveling part has very li ttle error also because the welding was so accurate. However here there is also a trick, i put 2 sheets of ultra-leather under the Y rails, so you can adjust the force of the screws and level the rails, hoever it is a very small adjustment window, but enough to get it near perfection. In the end if you need more leveling, you can always also align the CNC bed to be parallel to the Y rails plane. I am still working on this instuctable, i will include a section about welding and aligning "tricks" to make it more complete. Thank you very much for your sugestion.

aldricnegrier says:

Jun 20, 2014. 9:19 AM REPLY Very nice observation, you are right, it was done mostly using a TIG welder, however that the MIG welder was also used but less. Thank you for that heads up :)

LeeMcClelland says: Brilliant project. Is the 3D print size limited or is it the same as the CNC cut area? Great work, I expect you will sell thousands!


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