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CORPORATE PROFILE Incorporated in 1925, the Raymond Group is a Rs. 1400 crore plus conglomerate having businesses in Textiles, Readymade Garments, Engineering Files & Tools, Prophylactics and Toiletries. The group is the leader in textiles, apparel, & files & tools in India and enjoys a pronounced position in the international market. Raymond believes in Excellence, Quality and Leadership. Raymond is considered a pioneer in the development of the woolen and worsted textiles market in India, thanks to its continuous initiatives in product development, marketing and distribution. A strong heritage of in house research and development, a range of over 20,000 shades and designs, a distribution network of more than 4000 multi - brand outlets and over 281 exclusive retail shops, makes Raymond the largest and most respected textile brand in India. Raymond is uniquely positioned as a brand that addresses the innate need of men to look good and at the same time possess strength of character. This emphasis on human values creates a warm emotional link with consumers- the essence of 'The Complete Man'. At Raymond’s consistent focus is on cutting-edge research and technology that has resulted in pioneering new products, which have set new benchmarks in the worsted suiting industry in India. Raymond has always focused on innovation and technological upgradation that has yielded path breaking fabric solutions to customers around the world. From pure wool to wool blend with exotic fibre like cashmere, mohair or angore and casein or the ultimate in fine wool – super 240s crafted out of 11.6 micron wool, Raymond has always provided customers with world class products. The company exports its suiting fabric to more than 50 countries, including usa, Canada, Europe, japan and the middle east. The company's engagement with the customer works on multiple dimensions right from developing fashion guides that help them look sharp, to a wide selection of fabric for all occasions and fashion, to offering superior tailoring at The Raymond Shops at convenient locations all over India and the Middle East. As an integrated player, they provide end-to-end fabric solutions right from manufacturing worsted, woolen and linen fabrics to creating suits, trousers and apparel.
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RAYMOND GROUP STRUCTURE
Raymond Group
Fabric
Apparels
Brands
Woolen Outerwear
Furnishings
Brands
Worsted
Tailored Clothing
Raymond
Home Furnishings
EBO's
Denim
Jeanswear
Raymond Premium Apparel
Auto & Institutional Furnishing
Made to Measure
Shirtings
Dress Shirts
Park Avenue
Parx
ColorPlus
Makers
Notting Hill
Made to Measure The Raymond Shop
The Raymond Shop
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GROUP COMPANIES
RAYMOND LTD. Raymond Ltd. is among the largest integrated manufacturers of worsted fabrics in the world.
RAYMOND APPAREL LTD. Raymond Apparel Ltd. has in its folio some of the most highly regarded apparel brands in India – Raymond Premium Apparel, Park Avenue, Parx and Notting Hill. COLORPLUS FASHIONS LTD. ColorPlus is among the largest smart casual brands in the premium category. The company was acquired by Raymond to cater to the growing demand for a high end, casual wear brand for Men & Women.
SILVER SPARK APPAREL LTD. A garmenting facility that manufactures formal suits, trousers and jackets.
EVERBLUE APPAREL LTD. A state-of-the-art denim garmenting facility.
CELEBRATIONS APPAREL LTD. A facility set-up for the manufacture of formal shirts.
J.K. HELENE CURTIS LTD. A leading player in the grooming, accessories and toiletries category.
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J.K. INVESTO TRADE (INDIA) LTD. JKIT is an investment company registered with Reserve Bank of India as Non-Banking Financial Company.
J.K. FILES & TOOLS A leading player in the Engineering Files & Tools segment and the largest producer of steel files in the world.
RING PLUS AQUA LTD. A leading manufacturer in the engineering automotive components.
JOINT VENTURES
Raymond UCO Denim Pvt. Ltd. The manufacturers and marketers of denim fabrics
RAYMOND ZAMBAITI PVT. LTD. A greenfeild facility manufacturing high value cotton shirting
JK ANSELL LTD. The manufacturers and marketers of kamasutra condoms and surgical gloves.
JK TALABOT LTD Joint venture with MOB outillage SA, manufacturing files and rasps for international markets
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HISTORY
Around the time the Singhania family was building, consolidating and expanding its various businesses in Kanpur, one Mr. Wadia, was in a similar manner engaged in fulfilling his dream: he set up a small woolen mill in the area around Thane creek, 40 kilometers away from Bombay. The Sassoons, a well-known industrialist family of Bombay, soon acquired this mill and renamed it as The Raymond Woolen MillsWhen the Singhania were looking for new regions to establish their presence and new fields to venture into, they concurred that textiles appeared to hold promise. A piece of information that a woolen mill was available on the outskirts of Bombay clinched the issue. When the grandson of LalaJuggilal, LalaKailashpatSinghania took over Raymond in 1944, the mill was primarily making cheap and coarse woolen blankets, and modest quantities of low priced woolen fabrics. The vision and foresight of Mr. KailashpatSinghania helped greatly in establishing the J.K. Group’s presence in the western region. Under his able stewardship, Raymond embarked upon a gradual phase of technological up gradation and modernization producing woolen fabrics of a far superior quality. Under Mr. GopalakrishnaSinghania, the mill became a world-class factory and the Raymond brand became synonymous with fine quality woolen fabrics. At Raymond, quality did not rest on its laurelsWhen Dr. VijaypatSinghania took over the reins of the company in 1980, he injected fresh vigor into Raymond, transforming it into a modern, industrial conglomerate. His son Mr. GautamHariSinghania, the present chairman and managing director has been instrumental in restructuring the Group. With the divestment of the Synthetics, Steel and Cement divisions he initiated, the Group has emerged stronger with a better bottom line, more focused approach, become market oriented and achieved a consolidated position Today, the woolen mill by the creek has turned into a Rs. 1400 Crores conglomerate and is India’s leading producer of worsted suiting fabric with 60% market share. It is also the largest exporter of worsted fabrics and readymade garments to 54 countries including Australia, Canada, USA, the European Union and Japan. The Raymond group is also the leader among ready-mades in India with a turnover of Rs. 2000 million with its three brands – Park Avenue, Parx and Manzoni.
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INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS It all began with a small but significant order from Fiji for Rs. 7,000 worth of Raymond fabrics. In the St. Erik’s Fair in Sweden, a sizeable order was won and executed and ever since exports have never looked back. Today, Raymond is the largest exporter of worsted fabrics and readymade garments to over 58 countries including Australia, Canada, USA, the European Union and Japan. From winning the first ever Government of India award for outstanding export performances, Raymond has continued to win a number of export awards. Happily the export graph continues to rise higher…and higher. Raymond Denim enjoys a substantial market share in all parts of the world. The company exports 55% of its production to around 20 countries around the world and to leading denim wear brands like Levi's, Pepe, Lee Cooper and retail brands like Zara, H&M, Gap, Tommy Hilfiger, etc.
RAYMOND EXPORTS MARKET European Union (U.K., Portugal, Spain, Italy, Germany, Greece),Japan, Turkey, Poland, Lebanon, Egypt, Middle East, Mauritius, USA, Colombia, Hong Kong, Korea, Philippines, Indonesia, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Nepal and Pakistan. The products that Raymond Exports are:
Fabrics -100% Wool, Wool Rich, Polyester Wool & Polyester Viscose fabrics .Exotic fabrics like Wool Silk, Wool Cashmere, Cape Wool and Linen blends. Available in variety of finished and stretch properties both with and without Lycra. Blankets-100% Wool, Wool Rich Blankets & Flannels. Garments-Trousers, Jackets, Suits, Shirts, Jeans and Readymade accessories such as Ties, Socks Handkerchiefs and Leather Belts.
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BOARD OF DIRECTORS GAUTAM HARI SINGHANIA (CHAIRMAN AND MANAGING DIRECTOR) Shri Gautam Hari Singhania took over the reins of Raymond Limited as Chairman & Managing Director in September 2000. Since then he has steered the destiny of Raymond Limited with a single-minded focus of making Raymond an internationally reputed fibre to fashion player. He has been responsible for the strategic decision of restructuring the Group, initiating the divestment of its noncore businesses of Steel, Cement and Synthetics.
Dr. VIJAYPAT SINGHANIA (CHAIRMAN EMERITUS) During his tenure the Company diversified/expanded its activities into men’s suits, ready-made garments, cement, steel, Polyester Filament Yarn, denims, cosmetics and prophylactics. He expanded the files plant in Indonesia and the woolen plant in Kenya & made them into very respected and profitable ventures in those countries.
Smt. NAWAZ GAUTAM SINGHANIA (DIRECTOR) Smt. Nawaz Gautam Singhania was appointed as a Non-Executive Director on the Board on April 30, 2014. Smt. Singhania is 45 years old and holds a Graduate degree in Arts and a Post Graduate degree in Law from the University of Mumbai.
I.D. AGARWAL (INDEPENDENT DIRECTOR) Shri Ishwar Das Agarwal is a Chairman of Remuneration and Nomination Committee and a member of the Audit Committee and Corporate Social Responsibility Committee of the Board of Directors of the Company.
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NABANKUR GUPTA (INDEPENDENT DIRECTOR) Shri Nabankur Gupta is a Non-Executive Independent Director of the Company since January 15, 2001. Currently, he has been appointed as an Independent Director under Companies Act, 2013, to hold office for a period of five years with effect from January 1, 2015 who is not liable to retire by rotation.
PRADEEP GUHA (INDEPENDENT DIRECTOR) Shri Pradeep Guha is a member of the Remuneration and Nomination Committee, Corporate Social Responsibility Committee and the Audit Committee of the Board of Directors of the Company.
BOMAN R. IRANI (INDEPENDENT DIRECTOR) Shri Boman Irani is a Non-Executive Independent Director of the Company since April 21, 2011. Currently, he has been appointed as an Independent Director under Companies Act, 2013, to hold office for a period of five years with effect from January 1, 2015 who is not liable to retire by rotation.
H. SUNDER (PRESIDENT CORPORATE AFFAIRS AND WHOLE-TIME DIRECTOR) Shri Sunder joined Raymond Limited as General Manager (Corporate Planning) in May 2000 and thereafter got elevated as Director and Vice President. Prior to his appointment to the Board in the year 2011, he was the President – Finance and Chief Financial Officer of the Company. He has been with the Company for over 14 years and his tenure as a Whole-time director is contractual.
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COMPANY PROFILE
( SUIT PLANT- RAYMOND LTD., GAURIBIDANUR) • Raymond Ltd. Gauribidanur was inaugurated on 24th Oct. 2008. • This is a suit, jacket, waistcoat & trouser manufacturing plant. • The total area is 11 acres and the buildup area is 2, 00,000 square feet. • The total workforce is 2120. (Including staff) Raymond Ltd. Suit Plant is a 100% subsidiary of Raymond Group of Industries. Raymond Group has become within a short period of time since its incorporation in 1925 a major global conglomerate. The Group Raymond was set up as a textile Indian major and it has always nurtured leadership and quality. The chairman and managing director of the group is Gautam Hari Singhania. The Label Raymond manufactures the finest fabrics in the world from wool worsted blended suiting to wool to shirting’s of high value as well as ring specialty denims. Raymond Label is one of the leading groups in the designer wear, engineering tools & files, denim, air charter and prophylactics services in both international and national markets, cosmetics & toiletries, and fabrics. The group has a very wide range of more than 12,000 varieties of suiting’s that cater to consumers across all age groups, styles, and occasions. Raymond Group after making its mark in the textile sector entered the garmenting sector through ventures such as Ever Blue Apparel Ltd, Silver Spark Apparel Ltd, and Celebrations Apparel Ltd and Raymond Ltd. Suit Plant.
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BASIC INFORMATION
Company Name
RAYMOND LIMITED
Chairman and Managing Director MR. GAUTAM HARI SINGHANIA. Raymond Limited Industry Name Address
Contact detail GENERAL MANAGER
Silver Spark Apparel Limited Unit-II, No. - 4/2A, 5/3A, 3B Gundapura village , kasba hobli Gauribidanur taluk, Chikkaballapur dist. Karnataka, pin- 561208 Tel - +91855-283288
Silver Spark Apparel Limited Unit-II
MR. KAUSHALENDRA NARAYAN
Type of Manufacturing
APPAREL MANUFACTURING
Year of Establishment
24 October 2008
Area
11 Acres and build up area 2,00,000 sq. feet
Core Products
Jacket Trouser Waist Coat
Manpower
2100 (including staff)
Capacity per day
JACKET-3300 TROUSER-3000 55 countries in North America, Europe and Asia
Business across the world
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CLIENTS
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ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE AT RAYMOND LTD.
GENERAL MANAGER
PLANT MANAGER
FABRIC AND TRIMS STORES
CUTTING
SENIOR MANAGER QUALITY ASSURANCE
MANAGER INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING
FABRIC AND TRIMS STORES
INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING
CUTTING
UTILITY AND MAINTENANCE
HEAD HR & ADMIN
DEPUTY MANAGER-HR
HUMAN RESOURCES
COMPLIANCE AND HEALTH & SAFETY
TROUSER SEWING TROUSER SEWING
COMPENSATION & BENIFIT
JACKET SEWING
TROUSER FINSHING JACKET FINSHING WAREHOUSE PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
JACKET SEWING WELFARE & REEC
TROUSER FINSHING JACKET FINSHING
ADMIN & EMPLOYEE ENGAGEMENT
HR ASSISTANTS
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WORKFLOW IN DEPARTMENTS The business is headed by Plant Head who, further, has functional heads supporting him:
Production Merchandising Head Production Head (Jacket & Trouser) Finishing Head (Jacket & Trouser) Quality Head HR/Admin Head
The respective managers of Trims Store, Cutting Department, Industrial Engineering, Sewing Department, Quality, Finishing & Maintenance department directly report to the Plant Head. The head of department has an indirect reporting responsibility to the Merchandising Department. The Merchandising Department has a major role to play and is involved in every stage of the product development. The Head of Merchandising heads the activities in the three departments namely merchandising, purchase department and fabric department. The Head (HR/Admin) heads the activities of the HR department, Admin department and the IT department. The Plant Head reports to the General Manager for the various activities and major decision making in the departments. The work flow of Raymond Ltd is a planned and coordinated effort from all the departments. Giving the importance to quality and precision, checks are performed at every stage of Manufacture right from pre-production to post-production. There are 12 different departments in Raymond Ltd. They are: 1. Merchandising Department 2. Product development 3. Planning Department 4. Fabric Department 5. Trim Store 6. Cutting Department 7. Sewing Department 8. Finishing Department 9. Quality Assurance 10. Industrial Engineering
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11. Maintenance Department 12. Utility Department 13. Human Resource & Administration Department 14. Information Technology Department 15. Training Department All these departments are directly or indirectly related to the process of production. The following flowchart will explain the working of departments, which are directly involved for the process of production right from receipt and conformation of order to purchase than production to final finishing processes. Note: In SSA Ltd - II, there is no separate department for marketing/merchandising. Thus the marketing and merchandising activities are being carried out at Head Office and then coordinated. SSAL-II has its in-house Production merchandising Department which takes care of the availability of materials and trims required for production. Thus, SSAL-II procures materials required for production from Head Office.
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INFRASTRUCTURE The unit is ASIA’s LARGEST SINGLE FLOOR SUIT MANUFACTING UNIT IN ASIA. Raymond Group is equipped with many manufacturing units in Banglore, Dadballapur, Gauribidnaur, Vapi, Mumbai, Chinwarda. The Group is all set to establish more and more manufacturing unit near Hindupur (near Gauribidnaur). It will further enhance the production capacity of the Group. Offices strategically located all over India are operating with a commitment to excel. Ultramodern technologies lead the Group ahead of the competitors. It plays the key role in producing the products of superior quality. The unique blend of modern technologies from all over the world has enabled Raymond Group to maximize its capability. The latest highlighted-tech machinery is used at every stage, from - designing (CAD), Cutting (Digitizers, Plotters & Automated Cutting Machines) to Fusing. CUTTING-The cutting section is equipped with the Gerber & morgan spreader and cutter that ensure 100% perfection. It improves turnaround times and expedites the cutting process with minimal waste and cost. The section also has Band Knife machine and Fusing machines. Most modern CAD systems from Gerber, Intellocut and Lectra are employed for Computerized Precision Pattern Making, Grading and Marking System. The facility also has 5 CNC cutters. Advanced designing system and elaborate matching processes are employed to achieve intricate patterns and sophisticated illustration. Both machine and manual methods are employed for cutting and spreading. STITCHING-With its wide range of advanced machinery & proficient labor capable of producing stylized garments with perfection & finesse, the sewing section has a hi-tech infrastructure. The production lines are UPS based. The production lines are fully integrated and operational with various types of powered sewing machines from Brother, Juki, Pegasus, Pfaff, DA, & special machines like Computerized Welt Pocketing Machine, Belt Loop Attachment Machines, Multi Needle Kansai Special Machines & Special sleeve attaching machine. Finishing-Hi-tech machinery and cutting edge technology facilitate high quality wrinklefree finishing. Various pressing machines and heat transferring machines are available to ensure improvement in high functional performance of the garment through specialty finishing. There are 13 types of buck pressing machine for perfect finish. Final Inspection-Silver spark has an efficient Final Inspection Department equipped with the latest equipments. This section plays the most crucial role in ensuring 100% perfection of all the products. It is inspected that all the features demanded by the clients are designed or not. The experts thoroughly check all the products to make sure that the perfect products are delivered to the client. The products carry the brand image of the company. That’s why utmost care has been taken in this section to ensure that all the products are faultless.
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COMPLETE PROCESS FLOW
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PRODUCT RANGE
There are three different types of products made: Jacket Trouser Vest Coast
1. JacketThe different types of jackets made in are: Half Canvas Full Canvas
Floating Canvas
No vent Single Centre Vent Double vent (one on each side)
Single Breasted Double Breasted
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2. TrouserThe different types of trousers made are: Double pleated Single pleated Flat front With inside lining
3. Vest CoatThe different types of vest coat made are: Half Canvas Full Canvas
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IN HOUSE PRODUCTION MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT In Raymond Ltd, there is no separate department for marketing/merchandising. Thus the marketing and merchandising activities are being carried out at Silver Spark and then coordinated to Raymond. Raymond has its in-house Production merchandising Department which takes care of the availability of materials and trims required for production. Thus, Raymond procures materials required for production from Silver Spark. Merchandising is a process through which products are planned, developed, executed and presented to the buyer. It includes directing and overseeing the development of product line from start to finish. Marketing and merchandising department: A team of merchandisers and marketers work together under a profit controls head. Merchandisers handle the foreign buyers. The teams are made according to the buyers being handled. In an export house, merchandising is a combination of business and technical aspects. Senior merchandisers have responsibilities of products development and coordinating with the buyer, the garment styles that meets buyer’s expectations in regards to delivery, quality, and price point. Junior merchandisers have the responsibility of handling paper work and follow up, detailing with buyers, overseas communication etc. Once the order is placed it is their duty to complete the necessary paper work, provide breakdown information to all other department and get samples approved for fit, color and quality. Communications with overseas and domestic suppliers, approval of production samples, and development of fabric and yarns are also included in product development, which are co-coordinated with other departments. Merchandisers have to negotiate with the buyers on pricing, work out delivery schedules, and investigate for future buyers. Overall we can say that merchandising is the core department of the entire industry. THE FUNCTIONS OF THE DEPARTMENT ARE:
Generation of orders depending on production capacity Sample approvals Purchase co-ordination Generation of BOM Delivery of shipment Time & Action calendar Product Development Market and product Analysis Booking orders Confirming Deliveries Designing and Sampling Costing Raw Material
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Flow Monitoring Production Follow Ups Payments Follow
DOCUMENTS MAINTAINED:
Job Card Buyer’s Specification File Lab Testing Report Order Tracking Sheet And Its Status Shrinkage Testing Report Cost Sheet Trim Card Order performance report
FLOW CHART
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COSTING: The most important activity for the merchant is to estimate correctly and negotiate for the cost of production before the buyer sends on his PO .During the pre-development stage an initial costing occurs to get an idea of the garment cost likely to be incurred per piece. Some important considerations in costing are as following:
Yarn costs Process costs (printing, embroidery, washing, etc.) Process loss Cut Make Trim Cost (CMT) Commission percentage (%) for middleman. Shortages Quantity Currency Buyer specifications Negotiation (getting the best out of a deal) Mode of shipment (by sea/ by air) FOB (Free On Board) CIF (Cost, Insurance and Freight) OH (Overhead Costs) Quota (Not applicable) Profit (level of %).
Taking into considerations all the above mentioned, the merchant prepares the cost sheet with profit and sends to buyer for approval.
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MANPOWER IN MERCHANDISING
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PATTERN DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT
It is the job of the Pattern Masters in the Pattern Making Department to prepare the base size pattern of a style from which samples are prepared. These patterns are later modified according to buyer comments. The Pattern Masters may either produce the patterns manually on cardboards or they use the Software. This pattern is then used to cut the fabrics in Sample Production Department. They also discuss quality issues with nominated Buyer QA. It is responsible for creating the patterns both hard and soft once the order has been confirmed. They receive patterns from buyer but changes have to be made to it for perfect fit. Grading is also their responsibility. They use Gerber software for their work They have a digitizer to digitalize manual patterns. Their internal customer is Cutting, CAD and Sampling department.
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DEPARTMENT LAYOUT
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ORGANIZATION CHART
KAUSHALENDRA NARAYAN GENERAL MANAGER SILVER SPARK APPAREL LTD.
HIRAL N LAKDAWALA PLANT MANAGER PRODUCTION
PATTERN
SUNIL BHARDWAJ TECHNICAL ASSISTANT
PATTERN
REPORT TO
RENU EXECUTIVE
PATTERN
REPORT TO
ANIL/JAGDISH PATTERN MASTER
FABRIC KAVITHA TEAM LEADER
REPORT TO
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sop
27
PATTERN MEASUREMENT MODULE FOR JACKET
28
29
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PATTERN ALLOWANCE
OPEN MEASUREMENT
CLOSE MEASUREMENT
PURPOSE
First Button from Shoulder 5mm-6 mm Seam at Neck
5mm-6mm
Chest fullness
Dart spacing from point to 3mm point at the top of Dart
3mm
Piping/folding safer side
for
Dart from CF at lower pocket 3mm
3mm
Piping/folding safer side
for
Front Dart Length
5mm
5mm
Margin given bone stitching
for
Chest Pocket from Shoulder 3mm Seam at Neck
3mm
Chest fullness
Length from CB Neck
3mm
3mm
Bottom folding/ for safer side
Across Shoulder Bust/Chest
-3mm 6mm
-3mm 150 mm
Bias, seam pressing Safer side
6mm from 7mm
6mm 7mm
Vent tacking, folding Chest canvas fullness , Stitching shrinkage
below 3mm
3mm
Stitching shrinkage
Seat Armhole Depth HPS(Squared) Muscle/Bicep Armhole
1"
canvas
Elbow 8" from Armhole
2.5mm
2.5mm
Stitching shrinkage
Lapel Width
-2mm
-2mm
Piping/folding
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SAMPLING DEPARTMEN
Garment sampling is very much important process. It is a model of what the bulk production is going to be done. The sampling is quite difficult but it will make the buyers to get attractiveness towards the industry. Because the buyers generally places the order after they are satisfied with the quality of the samples. Garment sampling is a very important task in an apparel manufacturing because it gives the satisfaction of the customer with respect to the product being manufactured. This is in turn important because if the buyer is not satisfied by the samples, this puts the following at risk: i. ii.
Placement of the order Acceptance of the some or the entire quantity of garments produced
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The sampling department is in constant touch with the marketing department, which generates the order. The buyer supplies the specification sheet depending on which the patterns are developed. The samples decide the ability of the exporter. The buyers access the exporter and his organization only on the samples. If the samples are of good quality and with reasonable price naturally the buyer will be forced to place the order. By doing sampling the exporter gets to know the yarn consumption for developing the fabric, a clear idea on costing more over the manufacturing difficulties.
Once the buyer approves the patterns, sampling is done in jumping sizes and sent to the buyer for approval. There are a variety of samples generated at various stages. Once the pre-production sample is approved mass production starts OBJECTIVES
Getting approvals from buyers based on the samples produced. The Sampling Department produces the base patterns from which the samples are produced and send to the buyer for approval, if there are any changes or alterations to be done in the pattern then the buyer informs the Merchandiser who in turn asks the Sampling Department to make the necessary changes in the Pattern. Getting pre-production approvals on the fittings, constructions, quality, fabric and trims of the style. Checking and analyzing new styles, defining quality terms of new styles to production department. Sending samples to buyers on their request such as Proto Sample Fit Sample Photo shoot Sample & Ad Sample Sealer Sample Salesmen Sample Pre Production Sample Top Sample GPT Sample
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FUNCTION
The sampling department also calculates the consumption of fabric required to produce the garment. The sampling department also access for accessories and thread consumption for that particular garment. Based on the sampled garment the costing is been carried out. When all the Pre-Production Sample is approved by the buyer, the Sampling Department forwards the Production Marker, which has all the graded sizes of the approved pattern to the Cutting Department. The Details Attached to the Garment Sample After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following details attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer has demanded and what supplement fabric/trim etc they have used (if applicable). Ref no. Color Fabric Composition Description Quantity Style no. / Size
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PLANT LAYOUT
35
ORGANISATION CHART
KAUSHALENDRA NARAYAN GENERAL MANAGER SILVER SPARK APPAREL LTD.
HIRAL N LAKDAWALA
BRIJ KISHORE SHARMA
PLANT MANAGER PRODUCTION
SENIOR MANAGER QUALITY ASSUARNACE
REPORT TO
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
REPORT TO
VENKATESH TECHNICIAN
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
REPORT TO
ANURADHA EXECUTIVE
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
REPORT TO
SHARDA EXECUTIVE
FABRIC
SOBHA ASSOCIATE
SAMPLIN DEPARTMENT
SAMPLING DEPARTMNET
MURTHI
SHASHI
QUALITY (TROUSER)
QUALITY (JACKET/VEST COAT)
CUTTING/SEWING/FINISHING OPERATOR 0)
REPORT TO
REPORT TO
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SOP
37
EMPLOYES DETAILS S. NO.
NAME
ROLE AND RESPONSIBILITIES
1 VENKATESH 2 ANURADHA 3 SHARDA 4 OMKAR 5 SOBHA 6 SHASHI 7 MURTHI CUTTING 9 ANUSHA 10 MAHESH SAMPLE TAILOR (JACKET/TROUSER) 12 ANVER 13 RIYAZ 14 NINGRAJ 15 SIRAJ
JACKET TECHNICIAN EXECUTIVE: EXECUTIVE: ENGINEER SUPERVISOR (TROUSER/VEST COAT): QUALITY (JACKET/VEST COAT): QUALITY (TROUSER): MANUAL CUTTING MANUAL CUTTING JACKET SAMPLE TAILOR JACKET SAMPLE TAILOR TROUSER/VEST COAT SAMPLE TAILOR TROUSER/VEST COAT SAMPLE TAILOR
Operator (Jacket): 1. Varalakshmi
2. Indriyani
3. Shridevi
4.Pavitra
Operator (Trouser/Vest Coat): 1. Girijamma
2. Geetamma
3. Sumati
TYPES OF SAMPLES 1. Proto sample:This is the first sample being prepared from substitute fabric in only one size. This sample is sent to buyer agent if not in some cased to buyer itself. The pattern prepared for proto sample does not contain seam allowances. This sample is prepared just to get the garment outlook and size. 2. Fit sample:Fit samples are those samples that are made after getting the order sheets. These samples are needed to check the measurements, style, and fit. They can be made available in similar fabrics in the actual measurements and specifications. In many cases, the samples are worn by highly paid models. The buyer arranges the photoshoot session. In this sample stitch construction is mentioned. The grain cutting direction is mentioned as per the
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buyer requirements as well as the stitching instructions of the different parts of garment. The accurate dimensions of the garment are also specified. 3. Salesman sample: In this type of samples, a sample size of altogether 50 pieces in different sizes is sent to buyer. The buyer will have certain buying houses or showrooms where the samples are put on display for sale. The pattern prepared for salesmen sample, will contain seam allowances as lay is been made for cutting the above 50 pieces. Fabric used is original with all trims. 5. Size set samples: This sample is been prepared in order to check perfect fit to the garment. In all sizes one sample is sent to the buyer to check the fit. Based on this sample the buyer sends comments regarding the size fit if any. In certain cases the fabric may be of substitute fabric. 6. Pre-Production samples: These samples are almost like the approval samples. They are made in actual fabric with actual bulk trims. In this sample all accessories and fabric being original. The Q.C. in the production selects one sample and sends it to the Merchandiser; the latter checked and then sends it to the buyer. 7. Production samples: Production samples are samples that are sent before the shipment to get confirmation for shipment. These samples have to be perfect, because they might be checked by the buyer or even washed. 8. Top samples: This is the sample is been prepared in the production line during production hours. One or two samples being sent to the buyer to give the knowledge of the garment how is being stitched in the production line. Only certain buyers do ask for TOP samples. 9. Shipment sample: Here one or two samples to be sent to the buyer to give knowledge of what is being sent to the buyer through shipment. Certain buyers do ask for this type of samples though this sample is not sent usually. 10. Garment package test: The checking of the trims of sample at final step takes place according to the buyer spec sheet. Color fastness, strength, crocking of the sample is testing is done.
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FABRIC STORE
The fabric store is the central warehouse for the storage of fabrics required for production. Fabric stores will take care of received fabric lot as per the standard procedures. When the fabric is received from the supplier, it is received along with an invoice which will contain the order reference number and the buyer name. The fabric rolls are then checked whether the invoice quantity and the actual quantity are same or not. After finishing the formalities of fabric in warding bales will be stacked according to buyer/colors. THE MAIN FUNCTIONS OF THE DEPARTMENT ARE:
Receive the fabric as per BOM Inspect the fabric Conduct shrinkage and color-fastness tests Issue to spreading department as per plan Receive the end bits
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PLANT LAYOUT
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ORGANISATION CHART
KAUSHALENDRA NARAYAN GENERAL MANAGER SILVER SPARK APPAREL LTD.
HIRAL N LAKDAWALA
BRIJ KISHORE SHARMA
PLANT MANAGER PRODUCTION
SENIOR MANAGER QUALITY ASSUARNACE
FABRIC & TRIMS
FABRIC
HEMANT GONEKA
DUSHMANTH
REPO
DEPUTY MANAGER
QUALITY CONTROLLER
RT TO
FABRIC & TRIMS
REPORT TO
SATYABHUSHAN DAS EXECUTIVE
FABRIC
REPORT TO
MADIHA FABRIC IN CHARGE
FABRIC
MANJULA ASSOCIATE
FABRIC KAVITHA TEAM LEADER
FABRIC OPERATOR
REPORT TO
REPORT TO
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SOP
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EMPLOYES DETAILS
S. No.
NAME
Role and Responsibilities
1 2 3
Mr. Hemant Goneka Mr. Satyabhushan Das Madiha Farheen
4 5 6 7
Manjula Dushmanth Gangadevi R Jyothi
Deputy Manager: Executive: Production & Quality Engineer: Fabric Associate: Quality Controller Swatch Card & Shade Card Swatch Card & Shade Card
8 9 10 11
Manjula M.G Prabhavathi R Manjula Gayathri G
Bale Opening Bale Opening Bale Opening Inspection
12
Nalina K.N
Inspection
13
Mala
Inspection
14 15
Gangarathmma Shilpa
Inspection Inspection
16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25
Suguna Prema Nagmani Arathi G Arathi K C Shalini R Sri Devi C.G Kavitha K Radha E Nandini K. N
Bar Coding Bar Coding Width Report Width Report Stage Issues Physical Issues-Jacket Physical Issues-Trouser Shrinkage 11 parameters Stock Tally GRN & MTN
Kavitha K.S
Out wording
26
Area
Swatch Card Area Sponging m/c & Rack G&F Bale opening Area 1 Rack C & B Bale Opening Area 2 Inspection M/C3& Rack U&T Inspection M/C4& Rack M&L Inspection M/C4& Rack E&D Inspection M/C 5,6 & 7 Inspection M/C4& Rack W&V Rack G&F Bar Coding Area CAD CAD CAD Rack K & J Rack S & R Shrinkage Area CAD Inspection M/C4 & Rack M&L System area and all orders
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TYPE OF FABRICS STORED IN THE DEPARTMENT IS:
Shell Lining Pocketing Felt Fusing Canvas Fabric Issue for: Production Sample Pieces
FABRIC ISSUE TO:
Cutting Department Sampling Department
COMMUNICATION WITH DEPARTMENT
Fabric Office CAD department Sampling Department Planning & Merchandising Spreading & Cutting department
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MACHINE AND TROLLY DETAILS MACHINE DETAIL S. no.
Machine Name
Machine detail
No. of machine Area
1 2 3 4
Sponging machine Relaxation machine Inspection machine Shade Box
WESHI WESHI WEISHI WESHI
1 2 7 1
Sponging area Relaxation area Inspection area Shade box area
TROLLY S. no.
Area
Color
No.of Trolly
1. 2. 3. 4.
Unloading Fabric department Spreading Capacity
Yellow Yellow Blue Average 50 rolls
2 3 1 6
TABLE AND TUBE LIGHT S. no.
Table
Tube light
1. 2. 3. 4.
Bale Opening Area-1 Relaxation Area-1 Round table (today’s plan) Chair
Round tableShrinkageRack area-
3 1 8x4=32 4
COMPUTER SYSTEM S. no.
Computer System
Brand name
1. 2.
Round table (today’s plan) HP Bar coding HP
No. of person
No. of Computer System
3 1
3 1
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MACHINE USED IN FABRIC SOURCING DEPARTMENT:1. Inspection machine. 2. Sponging machine. 3. Relaxation machine. 4. Shade box machine.
Inspection machine:- In inspection machine we do inspection of fabric in 4 point system. Machine details: Machine model no.- YBJ-180 MAX ROLL DIAMETER: 350mm SPEED: 0-6 m/min STRETCH ADJUSTMENT: 0-200N INSPECTION SPEED: 0-20 n/min TOTAL POWER: 1.8 Kw SERIAL NO: 08368B005 MANUFACTURER: SHANGHAI WESHI MACHINERY CO., LTD.
INSPECTION MACHINE
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SPONGING MACHINE:- Sponging is done to control shrinkage in wool and wool blend fabric. This process is quite effective in removing relaxation shrinkage and any inherent strains within the fabric structure. It is applied to wool fabric before cutting to prevent possible contractions of the fabric in the finished garment. The machine has four different chambers where pre steaming, steaming and drying of the fabric is done. MACHINE DETAILS Power supply -380V
Steam pressure- 5kg/cm2
Steam consumption- 100-150kg/h
Rate output of motor kW -2.78kw
Rate output of heater kW -15kw
Working width-1800mm
Speed- 3-8m/min
Dimension -4500*2500*2000mm
SPONGING MACHINE
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RELAXATION MACHINE: In relaxation machine the lycra fabric is relaxed to avoid shrinkage during the production process as per the buyer’s requirement. The fabric is hanged for 24 hours and they are supplied to the cutting department in the same condition.
SHADE BOX MACHINE: Machine deals with the checking of the shade of the fabric.
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QUALITY IN FABRIC DEPARTMENT
CHECKING OF FABRIC: The fabrics received are checked by 4-point system:
100% random inspection for Trouser 100% inspection for Suit and Jacket fabric
The fabrics are checked for:
Width Shade (center to selvedge) Weaving defects Shrinkage (steam & fusing) (6 machines)
Sponging and relaxation is done for preventing fabric shrinkage. All the rolls of fabric are properly coded before loading onto racks.
11 PARAMETER: Width report. Shade report. CSV report. Bowing report. Shrinkage report. Inspection report. Colour fastness card. Shade band card.
SNo. Parameter 1
Width
Details
Checked on fabric inspection machine while the roll is being inspected Width is checked thrice in the entire roll; beginning, approximate halfway & end If a lot of variation is observed, approval from Merchandising Department is required If very less variation is observed, least width is kept on record
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2
Length
3
Defect Checking
4
Shrinkage
5
CSV
Actual length is recorded by the fabric inspection machine itself If a lot of variation is observed, supplier is contacted If very less variation is observed, the roll is passed further Defects are checked by operators on the fabric inspection machine using the 4-Point System Types of defects & points given to them are recorded on a sheet by the operator If points > 40, roll is rejected If points < 40, roll is accepted Roll no., width & length are written Tape is put on the edges of the roll Shrinkage is of two types: Steam & Fusing To inspect shrinkage, two swatches from each roll are cut Size of the swatch is 30cm x 30cm Marking using a template at 25cm x 25cm is done to prevent errors due to fraying of fabric One swatch is fused with a fusing in the fusing machine The other swatch is steam pressed The fabric swatches are measured again Variations are recorded in the report
A fabric panel which had been cut out of the entire width of the roll is vertically cut in 4 pieces 1 2 3 4
They are attached in such a way that the centre of one piece is attached to the selvedge in another piece 2 4 1 3
The swatch is then checked in light box for shade variations between centre & selvedge No CSV or CSV is mentioned in the Width Report accordingly
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6
7
Bowing
Colour Fastness
A fabric panel had been cut out of the entire width of the roll It is kept at the edge of the table If there is difference, the fabric panel is folded double and variation is measured
Bowing is calculated using the formulae d/w x 100 Where d is variation w is width If bowing < 4, it is accepted The result is mentioned in the width report
Two swatches, one from shell & other from white pocketing fabric are cut They are together treated with water, white petrol & air The pocketing fabric is then checked for patch of colour bleeding from the shell fabric If colour bleeding occurs, approval from Merchandising Department is required
8
Shade
A swatch is cut from all the rolls Shade is checked in the light box & categorized A swatch card is prepared where all shades of all fabrics are mentioned & swatches of each are affixed This is for further reference; while cutting, no two shade panels will be stitched together
9
Hand Feel
Hand feel is checked manually from the swatches cut from each roll
10
Face Side
Selvedge is checked for right & wrong side of fabric
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These are some of the defects that are found in fabric roll during inspection:
Double Pick
Lashing inn
Knots
Missing Pick
Holes
Sticky Yarn
Slubs Contamination
Multiple End Out
Tight end
Seer Sucker
Weft Bar floats
Broken Pick
Stain / Soils
Distortion
Dyeing Grease
Stop Marks
Missing / Floating Ends
Loose Ends
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FABRIC STORAGE Sponging and relaxation is done for preventing fabric shrinkage. All the rolls of fabric are properly coded before loading onto rack There are 22 racks(A, B , C…) with 10 compartment (1-10) each. Each compartment is having 3 levels(a, b & c).
The store capacity is around 3 lakh mtrs (including fusing & pocketing). The value of materials stored is around 7-8 crores Daily issue of fabric: Trouser – 8000 m & Jacket – 4000 m
Block
Material
L
Lining and fusing
A
Shell
M
Mixed
B
Lining
N
Sampling fabric
C
Fusing
O
Mixed
D
Felt
P
End bits
E
Canvas
Q
Pocketing
F
Pocketing
R
Sample storage
G
Inspection OK goods
S
Lining
H
Inspection OK goods
T
Lining
I
Valuable goods
U
Fusing
J
Reject goods
V
Felt
K
Shrinkage bits
Further these racks are divided into 10 sections each. Side view of these racks is as follows: A 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
1/A 2/A 3/A 4/A 5/A 6/A 7/A 8/A 9/A 10/A
B 1/B 2/B 3/B 4/B 5/B 6/B 7/B 8/B 9/B 10/B
C 1/C 2/C 3/C 4/C 5/C 6/C 7/C 8/C 9/C 10/C
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TRIMS DEPARTMENT
OBJECTIVE:
To receive Incoming material and check material for attribute & variables To arrange an incoming material in an allocated racks To issue trims as per production planning & other material as per requirement To mention a record of incoming & outgoing material To do audit to check physical inventory
FUNCTION OF TRIMS AND PACKAGING DEPARTMENT
To receive Incoming material and check material for attribute & variables To arrange an incoming material in an allocated racks To issue trims as per production planning & other material as per requirement To mention a record of incoming & outgoing material To do audit to check physical inventory
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PLANT LAYOUT
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ORGANISATION CHART
KAUSHALENDRA NARAYAN GENERAL MANAGER SILVER SPARK APPAREL LTD.
HIRAL N LAKDAWALA PLANT MANAGER PRODUCTION
BRIJ KISHORE SHARMA SENIOR MANAGER QUALITY ASSUARNACE
FABRIC & TRIMS
HEMANT GONEKA DEPUTY MANAGER
TRIMS & PACKAGING
MUBARAK QUALITY CONTROLLER
FABRIC & TRIMS
REPORT TO
SATYABHUSHAN DAS EXECUTIVE
TRIMS & PACKAGING
REPORT TO
B.K GUPTA ASSISTANT
TRIMS & PACKAGING PRADEEP STORE IN CHARGE
TRIMS & PACKAGING RANGAMANI TEAM LEADER
TRIMS & PACKAGING OPERATOR
REPORT TO
REPORT TO
REPORT TO
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SOP
58
MATERIAL SEGREGATION Sewing Trims Sewing thread
Packaging Trims Poly Bag
Waist band lining
Carton Box
Band Roll: Waist Band, loop Fusing: Waist Band, Loop, Part Button Zipper & slider Hook & Bar Label:Size,Wash care,Brand
Hanger Jet Clip Staple Pin Tag Size
Brand
Wash care
CelloTape
TRIMS & ACCESSORIES DETAILS (FOR JACKET) 1)
Shoulder pad
2)
Thread
3)
Satin tape
4)
Size label
5)
Neck label
6)
Content/Care label
7)
Sleeve label
8)
Main label or brand label
9)
Bridle tape Felling tape
10)
Besom tape
11)
Armhole tape
12)
Double sided fusing with paper
13)
Double sided fusing without paper
14)
Poly bag
15)
Hanger
Other Trims Spare Part
Stationary
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QUALITY IN TRIMS AND PACAKGING DEPARTMENT The points inspected in all trims are:
Trim broken. Incorrect color. Incorrect size. Trim not as specified. Trim bleeding/ migration Miscellaneous trim defects Trims length Uniformity of trims
The Quality criteria is AQL 2.5 All the trims received are checked for quality defects. Acceptable quality level followed for trims is as follows
Quantity Received
Sample Size
Accepted
Rejected
0-280 281-500
13 20
0 1
1 2
501-1200
32
2
3
1201-3200 3201-10000
50 80
3 5
4 6
10001-35000
125
7
8
35001 and above
300
14
15
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CUTTING AND SPREADING Cutting is the pre-production process of separating a spread into garment parts that are of precise size and shape of the pattern pieces on a marker. The cutting process may also involve transferring marks and notches from the marker to the garment parts to assist operators in sewing. Where large quantities of a garment style are to be cut, a lay is created which consist of many plies of fabric spread one above the other. From this, all the garment pieces for all the sizes that have been planned for that lay are cut. The pattern shapes for these garments are present on a printed paper marker placed on top of the lay. Chopping or sectioning a spread into blocks of piece goods may precede precision cutting of individual pattern shapes. This is often done to allow accurate matching of fabric design or easier manipulation of a cutting knife. Once the marker is made, pattern pieces must be cut out of the specified fabric, a process called "cutting." Currently, several cutting techniques exist, ranging from low- to high-tech. Although scissors are used very rarely-only when working with very small batches or sensitive fabrics-cutting continues to be done by hand, particularly in many lower volume establishments. Here, cutters guide electric cutting machines around the perimeter of pattern pieces, cutting through the fabric stack. An electric drill may be used to make pattern notches. The accuracy and efficiency of this system is considerably less than in computerized cutting systems. Computerized cutting systems are achieving more widespread use as technology costs decrease and labor costs rise. These computer-driven automated cutters utilize vacuum technology to hold stacks of fabric in place while cutting. Cutting blades are sharpened automatically based upon the type of fabric being cut. Gerber Garment Technology manufactures one of the most commonly used cutting systems. This technology has the advantage of being highly accurate and fast, but does cost considerably more than other cutting techniques. The cutting department is responsible for cutting the lay as per the cutting plan (marker) generated by the “Planning Department”. After cutting the panels are fused according to the requirement. This section provides the framework for the processes involved in cutting section and the production management practices that are incorporated in the cutting area. Cutting processes are regarded as the most critical process in the garment manufacturing process. The theory behind this is that here the raw material (fabric is given a form in the form of cut
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panels . this means that utmost care must be taken in each and every process because after cutting most of the times the wrong doing cannot be rectified. Cutting is also a direct interface for the pattern department by way of making markers. A lot of effort is involved in making sure that the markers are provided in the required manner to eliminate the chances of mistakes. Effort goes into making sure that every single details of the style is considered while marker making. That is why cutting plays a vital role in having a correct pattern. Cutting coasts form a bulk of manufacturing costs. An automated cutting room forms almost 50% of the stationary,spares, consumables cost. Overall, cutting costs incorporated about 25 % to 30 % of the manufacturing expenses. Automated cutting room also involves highly accurate CNC machine which run on an established technology and there by maintenance become very important. Preventive maintenance and TPM activities are carried out in a very efficient manner.
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DEPARTMENT LAYOUT
63
ORGANIZATION CHART
64
SOP
65
SOFTWARE DETAILS` SOFTWARE
USES
Gerber version 8.2 Morgan Technica
Pattern making, Pattern grading, Marker making Cut plan, Numbering sequence
Accunest
Marker making of small parts
Cut issue & FCR generator
Cut issue slip, Final cut report
Intellocut
Cut Plan
Cutting department is made of:
CAD section Spreading section Cutting section
CAD section
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Responsibilities of cut order planning Examining incoming orders and piece goods width and availability. Determining volume, size ratios, and sectioning procedures for marker making. Determining whether file markers are available or new ones are needed. Developing specifications for optimum marker making and fabric utilization. Determining most effective use of spreading and cutting machine and personnel. Issuing orders for marker making, spreading and cutting. CUTTING ORDERS LEADS TO
MARKER PLANNING
LAY PLANNING
Marker planning The results of cut order planning are cutting orders that direct marker planning and cut planning. The purpose of marker planning is to determine the most efficient combination of sizes and shades for each order and to produce the basic fabric yield and e=machine utilization. One cutting order may require several markers to achieve optimum efficiency. A lay is a stack of fabric plies that have been prepared for cutting. Lay planning is the basis of managing cutting room labor and table space. Spreading and cutting schedules are affected by: Table length, Type of machine, Spread length, Spreading time and Cutting time
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Fabric layer n or ply n
Fabric fabric layer 4 or ply 4 layer/lay fabric layer 1 or ply 1 Marker making It is a process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specified stlye, fabric and distribution of sizes(requires time, skill and concentration).
Marker making is a critical step in the manufacturing process. By retaining strict control over this critical step, they keep the fabric consumption as low as possible. It also ensures that the issues that affect quality will be given proper attention. These include placing patterns on grain, keeping patterns paired, and attending to details such as drill holes and notches. Depending on the relative efficiency of each marker produced, the company may save or waste thousands of rupees a year.
Markers types:
Blocks or sections Blocks or sectioned markers contain all of the pattern pieces for one style in one or two sizes. Continuous Continuous markers contain all the pattern pieces for all sizes included in a single cutting.
Marker types
Manual
Computerized
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Manual marker Created on marker paper or directly on fabric ply. Tracing by pencil or tailor’s chalk. Time consuming. Subject to errors (paper overlap, grain line, poor line definition, omission of pieces). Accuracy depends on individual’s skill. Computerized marker Accurate. Shortest response time. Direct or digitized. Manipulate images for best utilization. No overlapping/no omission. Parameters (style, size, etc) for markers are entered into the computer. Can be printed/modified/recalled. Criteria can be set by technician. Can be used to determine fabric requirement. Marker efficiency
It is given by
Area of patterns in the marker plan X 100% Total area of the marker
It is determined for fabric utilization. Minimum waste.
Factors affecting marker efficiency
Fabric characteristics (fabric width, length of design repeat etc). Shape of pattern pieces (large pieces- less flexibility). Grain requirements.
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FLOW PROCESS
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EMPLOYES DETAILS
CAD
SHYLAJA
RUKMANI
MAMATHA K
SANNAMA
ASHWATHAMMA
MUDUGANGAMMA
ROLE AND RESPONSIBILTIES
LAY REPORT CHECKING
PLANNING CHECKING
STRIKER PRINTING
MARKER MAKING
PATTERN CHEKING
MARKER MAKING CHECK POINTS
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SPREADING SECTION
Spreading is the process of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table, cutting table or specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting process. Spread or lay is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single marker.
REQUIREMENTS OF SPREADING:
Shade sorting of clothes pieces. Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability. Alignment of plies. Correct ply tension. Elimination of fabric faults. Avoidance of distortion in the spread.
SPREADING EQUIPMENT’S: Spreading surfaces such as spreading table (shell, linings etc); pinning table and vacuum table. Spreading machine.
Spreading
Manual
Machine
MANUAL SPREADING:
In manual spreading fabric is drawn from its package which, if it is a roll, is supported by a frame and carried along the table where the end is secured by clamps. The operators work back from the end, aligning the edges and ensuring that there is no tension and that there are no wrinkles.
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Manual spreading
Machine spreading:
Spreading machines carry the pieces of fabric from end to end of the spread, dispensing only one ply at a time on the spread. Spreading machine includes: A motor to drive. A platform on which the operator rides. A ply cutting device with automatic catcher to hold the ends of ply in place. A ply counter. An alignment shifter actuated by photo electric edge guides. A direct drive on the fabric support, synchronized with the speed of travel, to reduce or eliminate tension in the fabric being spread
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Machine spreading
Spreading Modes: • For Trousers – Solid – Face Up Spreading – Check Stripes – Face to Face • For Jackets – Face to Face (generally) • For Bulk orders 8 way and 4 way markers used else 2 way and 1 way. • 6.5 m pin table used for spreading suit and 4 m used for jackets.
Fabric is to be received from fabric store department along with following details: Usable fabric width Colour /shade code Length of rolls
Spreading operator is to receive lay report consisting of following details: Purchase Order Style Number
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Lay Number Lay method –Face up / Face to face Fabric type –Shell/ Lining /Interlining / Fusing Colour / Shade Lot quantity Marker name Marker length Lay length Usable fabric width No of plies to be spread Consumption Standard Spreading Procedure: Spreading operator is to observe a lay report generated from CAD section for abovementioned detail. Operator is to receive fabric roll from fabric receipt section as per lay details. Operator is to set the machine parameter as per lay details. For instance, lay length, no of plies; spreading method and start point. Operator is to load fabric roll in cradle of spreading machine. Operator is to observe fabric behaviour i.e. Fabric composition Stretch -warp way & weft way Fabric stability.
Operator is to spread one ply and check marker length and width of fabric Operator is to spread 2 to 3 plies & observe for wrinkle or stretch of fabric. Accordingly, he/she has to adjust the counter weights in forward or backward direction. Note: Adjustment is as follows: Wrinkle: Move the counter weight in forward direction Stretch: Move the counter weight in backward direction Face Up spreading: Adjust only two counter weights Face-To-Face spreading: Adjust all four-counter weights After completion of each roll; operator is to mention following detail in spreading / laying report: Roll reference number Fabric roll width Fabric usable width Fabric roll length
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Colour /shade code Usage in meters Balance quantity
Similarly, spreading has to continue for a required number of plies in a lay. And required numbers of lays are spread to achieve required cut quantity in purchase order. Operator is to maintain machine and follow daily maintenance schedule. Spreading Check Points: Fabric composition Stretch –Warp way & Weft way Fabric stability Fabric direction e.g. Nape, Twill Wrinkle or Stretch in a spread ply Left side edge of fabric ply should be aligned to each other Extreme ends of plies should be aligned Fabric laid should be 1 to 1 ½ more than the marker length The fabric laid should never be less than marker width Only relaxed/sponged fabric to be spread if buyer required so. No defective or rejected fabric to be laid & fabric defects should be marked with white chalk
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LAYING SECTION SPREADING PROCESS
Load Fabric Roll
Position the roll according to start selvedge
Specify the no. of rolls to be laid
Spread the perforated paper on lay table
Set up start end clamp determining lay length
Laying
Start air blow during transferring of lay to cutting m/c end
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PINNING For fabric required plaid matching (stripes and checks); spreading is done on pinning tables. Pinning table is essentially consist of intermediate rows and columns of needles /pins which are so placed that they can be removed in rows along the length by the means of hand wheel. This enables the spreader to adjust the setting are required. There will be indications in the marker about the places where the plaid matching is required and length from zero position will be given. The spreader will at first organize the pin rows accordingly and then proceed with spreading. Here the fabric lay are passed through a series of pins. Care should be taken to make sure that the pins don’t damage the fabric but only displace the yarn. After the spreading process is complete the lay is transported to cutting process. During transportation, the fabric lays are held together by means of end clip to make sure that the alignment remains same. Table blower is utilized to help in easy transportation. Pinning Standard Procedure:
Operator is to observe a lay report generated from CAD section for abovementioned detail. Operator is to receive fabric roll from fabric receipt section as per lay detail. Operator is to observe the mini marker to set a needle bar, lay length and matching points. Operator is to place an insertion bar at the centre of the spreading table. Operator is to spread a brown sheet on pinning table. Operator is to set marker length and draw a line at a distance of marker length on brown sheet. After unrolling fabric from fabric stand of pinning table and before pinning ply on pinning table, operator has to maintain approximately 2-3 ply length of loose fabric in order to relax fabric and avoid stretch while laying. Operator is to gradually raise needle by 8-10 mm. Operator is to tear a fabric for first ply of a fabric roll. Operator is to lay fabric and pin at an extreme end i.e., first needle bar. Operator is to gently take the fabric at the cutting end i.e., opposite end without pinning & remove wrinkle. Operator has to again come back to extreme end i.e., first needle bar and pin the remaining pins from left to right side in a sequence. Note: Both operators should move & pin needle simultaneously Operator is to cut fabric with end cutter. Similarly, pinning has to continue for a required number of plies in a lay. And required number of lays is to be spread to achieve required cut quantity in purchase order.
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Pinning Check Point:
Fabric composition. Stretch –Warp way & Weft way. Fabric stability. Fabric direction e.g. Nape, Twill. Wrinkle or Stretch in a spread ply. Fabric ply edge should be aligned to each other. For Instance, left edge in case of trouser whereas centre in jacket. Extreme ends of plies should be aligned. Fabric laid should be 1 to 1 ½ more than the marker length. The fabric laid should never be less than marker width. Only relaxed/sponged fabric to be spread if buyer required. Stripes or checks to be matched exactly. No defective or rejected fabric to be laid & fabric defects should be marked with white chalk. MACHINE DETAILS:
S. No.
Machine
Brand
Number
1.
Automatic Spreader
Morgan
1
2.
Automatic Spreader
Gerber
2
3. 4. 5. 6.
Automatic Cutter Automatic Cutter Vacuum Tables Pin Tables (6.5m)
Gerber Morgan Gerber Veith
3 1 5 2
7.
Pin Tables (4m)
Veith
1
8. Band Knife 9. Straight Knife 10. End Cutter 11. Fusing Machines 12. Fusing Machines 13. Fusing Machines
Eastman Eastman Eastman Kannegiessar Weishi Relient Cool Stream
3 2 5 5 1 1
The spreaders are 1.8 metres wide and can spread a fabric roll up to a width of 1.8 metre. 2 Pinning tables are of length 6 metres and 1 of 4 metres.
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CUTTING SECTION In this process, fabric is being cut into components (shapes or patterns of different garment parts, i.e. front, back, side panel, sleeve, collar, front and back panel incase of trouser etc.). in mass production multiple layers of fabric are laid on the table i.e. spreading and large number of garments is being cut at a time.the laid fabric stack is called as lay. Cutting of lay is done using straight knife, band knife and automatic CNC cutter ; and sometimes manual cutting with the help of scissor incase of recutting.
CUTTING
MANUAL
MACHINE
PORTABLE CUTTING KNIVES
STATIONARY CUTTERS
BAND KNIFE STRAIGHT KNIFE
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Numbering Numbering process is essential giving identity to the individual parts. Two types of numbering is done: 1. STICKER PLACEMENT: a standard sticker machine is used in which roller scale and number is placed as per the number sequence given from CAD. 2. INK STAMPING: this is mechanical machine in which ink pad are placed on the number generator roll and the setting is made as per the number sequence given from CAD. Repeat of numbers can also be set by means of a linear scale which will be converted into rotary action by number movement. Numbering is an important process in the cutting room. It is the process of giving all the components of a garment a unique number, so that they can be paired together while sewing. For shell, collar felt and sleeve lining, stickers are put using the sticker machine, whereas for body lining, the numbers are stamped using a stamping machine. Problems that can occur due to wrong numbering are enlisted below: 1. Shade variation. 2. Assembly of face side and wrong side. 3. Different size components assembled together. The input for the numbering section is the output of the cutting machine. The parts (shell, lining, collar felt) cut at the cutter are brought to numbering tables. At the numbering tables, these points must be checked: 1. Cut sticker must be present on all the components. Any missing cut sticker would lead to wastage of time in finding out the details of the unnamed components. 2. Check Summary Report to see if correct details are mentioned on the cut stickers before starting with numbering. Buyer’s name, style number, color, lay number, size and quantity are checked. 3. Before starting with numbering first time in the day, clean the stamp with white petrol and cloth to make sure there is no paint. This ensures that the numbers stamped are clear and easy to read. The stamping machine should be taped as well.
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Figure 1: CLEANING NUMBERING M/C 4. Refill the paint in the stamping machine. Squeeze out the paint from the bottle onto the refill pad. 5. Put new sticker roll in the sticker machine. 6. The parts are arranged in a manner to ease the process of numbering. This arrangement differs for: i. Shell (spread face up face down or face to face for jackets) ii. Lining (spread face up) iii. Small Components iv. Large components
SHELL
LARGE PARTS
Lift two plies at a time; number both on the wrong side.
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LINING
SMALL PARTS
Lift two plies at a time; number both on the wrong side. Separate and remove the mirror parts.
LARGE PARTS
Arrange the parts in a step wise manner with the help of fingernails, and then stamp one after the other. Small parts arranged in different ways: flower like arrangement for sweat shield.
SMALL PARTS
7. The face side of the components is checked to ensure that numbering is not done there. If not taken care of, this could result in quality issues: wrong side and face side could be assembled together. In a bundle, WT (pink sticker) depicts wrong side of the topmost layer and WB (blue sticker) represents wrong side of the last layer in a bundle of components.
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S.No.
Type of lay
1.
Face to face
2.
Face up face down
3.
Face one way
Marking
8. The number to be put is tallied against the summary sheet and set on the stamp machine using a pin. In case stickers are being used, it is set on the sticker gun. 9. The frequency of change is set. For stamp machine, the following options are available:
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S.No.
Option
Function
1.
0
No change; Repeat.
2.
1
Numbers change in a sequence. (e.g. 101, 102, 103…)
3.
2
Numbers would change after every second time (e.g. 101, 101, 102, 102, 103, 103…)
4.
3
Thrice the same number would be repeated (e.g. 101, 101, 101, 102, 102, 102, 103, 103, 103…)
5.
4
The same number would get stamped four times (e.g. 101, 101, 101, 101, 102, 102, 102, 102, 103, 103, 103, 103…)
For sticker gun, three options are available: S.No.
Options
Function
1.
1
2.
2
3.
R
Numbers would change one after the other; in a sequence. (e.g. 101, 102, 103…) One number would be repeated twice. (e.g. 101, 101, 102, 102, 103, 103…) No change; Repeat. (e.g. 101, 101, 101, 101…)
10. Numbering must be done at the correct place. Numbering positions for the large parts of shell is given below: S.No. SHELL
Parts
Position numbering
for Visual
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1.
Front
Bottom
2.
Back
Across-back, middle.
3.
Lapel
Numbering position
86
4.
Side Panel
Top
5.
Top Sleeve
Crown
6.
In Sleeve
Below the crown
7.
Collar
Centre
8.
Collar Neck Centre Band
87
9.
Small Parts Centre (Flap, Bone, Breast pocket, Pocket facing, )
LINING 1. Front
Bottom
2.
Back
Bottom
3.
Side Panel
Bottom
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4.
Top Sleeve
Crown
5.
In sleeve
Below the crown
6.
Small Parts
Top
7.
Collar Felt
Middle
11. Check the numbering after completing one bundle to check: i. All the components are numbered; no numbering jump. ii. Correct numbering is done. iii. Numbering is done at the correct position.
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1. Numbering Operation: Computer Aided Manufacturing (CAM) - Operator is to keep cut panel on a storage table in ratio wise & colour wise manner. Ex: 30 * 32, Black Colour all cut parts i.e. front, back, fly, bone, pocket-facing piece are together. CAM - Operator is to mark on backside of fabric of first ply of each & every cut part to avoid face side/backside confusion or starting ply number confusion. Operator is to observe lay report to know following details regarding lay or lot. Lot number. Purchase order Style Colour Number of plies Operator is to observe cut summary and verify with cut piece for size i.e. Waist * inseam. Note: If cut summary does not match with cut parts sizes i.e. waist * inseam, check minimarker and cut plan to verify cut-summary report. Normally mini-marker and cut plan remain same and chance of error lies in cut summary. Henceforth, emphasis of error detection should be on cut summary. If found problem, get it rectified.
Operator is to observe face side as well as backside of fabric and first ply of every layer. Operator is to observe cut summary to know following details to do numbering:
Bundle number Colour Size Ply serial number Bundle size. 2. Numbering Place Value (a) In case of trouser, Numbering consists of 10 digits Digit 1 2 3 4 5 to 10
Nomenclature First number of waist size Second number of waist size First number of inseam size Second number of inseam size Serial number
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In presentation, it is written below as follows: __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ i.e. (1 To 10,000 Serial No) Waist Inseam Serial Number
For a particular purchase order, number starts from one and end at last cut order quantity. Irrespective of size and colour number is given as per the purchase order & lay number.
(b) In case of Jacket numbering consists of 8 digits Digit 1 2 3 to 5 6 to 8
Nomenclature Number of front buttons Fixed alphabet ‘S’, that stands for size Jacket size Serial number of panel
For a particular colour of purchase order, number starts from one and end at last cut order quantity.As per jacket size and serial number, digit number varies. 3.Numbering Check Points: Face side and backside should be checked with swatch card. First ply of layer should be observed properly. Numbering should be done on backside of panel. Number should not skipped Number should be clear & at defined position. Numbering should vanish after required time period. Numbered parts should be bundle correctly. GLOSSARY 1. Cut Sticker: Cut stickers are generated in the CAD office, using the software, E- Matters. The input required to generate a cut sticker is: i. Buyer’s name ii. Order number iii. Style number iv. Sizes v. Quantity for each size vi. Type of lay (shell, body lining, body fusing, knee lining etc.) These are put and the software generates a template that can be directly used to print on the stickers.
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The cut sticker has information of the buyer, the style number, lay number, size and garment number. 2. Summary Sheet: A summary sheet has information of the buyer, order number, total order quantity, lay number, color, size, quantity and numbers of the pieces segregated size wise. It is a very important document generated in the CAD office using the Morgan Software. It helps in numbering. Any errors in the summary sheet can lead to wrong numbering which can affect quality of the garments being produced.
QUALITY CHECKING AND RELAYING Quality checking is an essential process for checking for visual defects in parts concentrated on weaving defects. 100 per cent checking is done except small parts like bone, flap,etc.
RELAYING Parts which are cut as bigger blocks in pinning are brought here and matched against each other to make sure that the plaid matching is achieved. The plaid matching is essential for standard features of any stripe/ checks garment. As in pinning, there will be underneath needle which are set at the desired position and the parts can be adjusted as per the plaid repeat requirement. After the requirement parts are matched, they are tied together by means of knotting. Then ready patterns are placed over the bulk plies and bound by means of end clips. Care should be taken here to make sure that the grain line remains the same while placing the ready patterns. After this, the parts are taken for band knife cutting on band knife machine. Band knife machine essentially consists of a revolving knife placed on pulleys run by motor. Theknife generates a vibrating movement which will enable cutting process. Hand gloves are mandatory while operating this machine.The bigger blocs are trimmed at ends / edge to bring the parts to the required dimensions. Notches as required are also made on this machine. FUSING
Fusing process is one of the most important processes in cutting department. Fusing materials essentially provide strength, stiffness and stability to the garment and adds to the presentation of the garment. There are various types of fusing depending on the application. The most three parameter in fusing are:
1. Temperature
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2. Pressure 3. Fusing time
Different types of fusing have different setting of parameter. The fusing machine must be set as per the required parameters for particular fabrics and fusing. A standard guideline about the fusing setting will be given from fabric section. Another important process here is FUSE line BOND testing. Bond testing is a process of mechanically testing the fuse line pressure (in kgs) by means of mechanical weight scale. The process is performed at starting of any new style and the same displayed alongside the machine. Also the fusing machine are tested for temperature manually by means of temperature thermo strips twice a day to make sure temperature calibration is intact , since the machine is influenced by outside weather and climate. Standard fusing guidelines for different parts will be provided for ease of placements of fusing pieces on the shell fabric.
FUSING TECHNOLOGY IN GARMENT INDUSTRY The most important area of garment construction where an alternative process has significantly taken over from sewing is in the attachment of interlinings. When interlinings are sewn in, it can be difficult on parts such as collars to avoid a wrinkling of the interlining inside the collar and pucker around the edge. On large parts such as jacket fronts, the attachment of interlinings by sewing is expensive and requires a skill if a high standards is to be achieved. The alternative process which has been developed is that of fusing. Fusing technology whereby the interlining is bonded to the outer fabric by means of a thermoplastic resin. The term fusible interlining is used to describe a base fabric coated on one side with a thermoplastic adhesive resin which can be bonded to another fabric by the controlled application of heat and pressure. These materials, generally called fusible, provide the designer with a number of properties which can enhance the appearance of finished garments. Following are the fusible parts of different garment:-
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Figure 2: FUSIBLE PARTS OVER GARMENTS
ADVANTAGES OF INTERLINING:
Garments with interlining tend to be stronger, because of the added layer of fabric support. They drape better compared to non-interlined garments. Interlining generally bespeaks a higher level of quality in a garment, because of the additional manufacturing time involved. Interlining can also be used to protect fabrics, especially those used in drapes and consequently often exposed to direct light. Delicate fabrics like silk and velvet can suffer from sun damage if hung with a liner alone, and most drapers recommend the use of an interlining for the life of the fabric. in quilting, the layer offers an extra bit of fluffiness, along with warmth in the winter.
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MAJOR CHALLENGES IN FUSING TECHNOLOGY: 1. Modern fashion fabrics and interlinings are more delicate. 2. Fabrics are generally finer and lighter. 3. They are more sensible to temperature and pressure. 4. They have more tendencies to shrinkage under temperature. 5. Many fabrics are elastic, some in both directions. 6. Textile finish with softeners can effect fusing. 7. Modern fusible interlinings are lighter and thinner. 8. There is more chance of back of fusing.
strike
Interlinings used in Raymond, Gauribidanur: -Raymond Gauribidanur is a jacket, waistcoat & trouser manufacturing plant established on 24th Oct. 2008. Jacket is one of the heaviest garments and hence requires interlining like fusing, canvas and felt. FUSING USED IN RAYMOND, GAURIBIDANUR: Three types of fusing are used in this plant: 1. BODY FUSING- They are basically a woven fusing, which is fused at front panel of the jacket and also sometimes at lapel, depending upon buyer requirement. They are generally white or black in color. 2. PART FUSING-They are basically non-woven fusing, which is fused at different part of the panels like collar, shoulder, side seam, inseam, arm-hole ,bottom line, dart, pocket, bone, flap etc. They are generally white or charcoal in color. 3. NR FUSING- They are so called because of presence of nylon thread in non-woven fusing. They are used to strengthen the seams and are fused at side seam, in- seam, collar& shoulder .They are generally white or black in color. 4. WHITE FUSING – This fusing is named after its color. It is used in few parts of panel which are as buyer requirement.
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FUSING MACHINES: There are seven fusing machines used for jacket fusing Machine type .No. of machine Kannegiesser 5 Weishi 1 Reliant Cool stream 1 Men-Power for Fusing:There are 10 operators for feeding the parts and 3 operators for collecting these parts. The distribution for each part is as follows: Feeding: Front – 3 Operators Back and top-sleeve – 3 Operators Side-panel and In-sleeve – 1 Operator each Lapel – 1 Operator Small Parts – 1 Operator Collecting: Front, Lapel – 1 Operator Back, Top-Sleeve and Small parts – 1 Operator Side-panel and In-sleeve – 1 Operator Note-Small parts includes Collar, Neck band, Welt, Bone and Flap.
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FLOW CHART
ORDER INFORMATION FROM PRODUCTION FILE MARKER MAKING
FABRIC ISSUE REPORT
ISSUE OF FUSING ROLLS FROM FABRIC SECTION STORAGE OF ROLLS IN CUTTING SECTION SPREADING
CUTTING
BUNDLING
ISSUE TO FUSING AREA
SEGREGRATION
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COLLECTION OF SHELL PARTS FROM PANEL CHECKING FUSING STARTS
INCORRECT
CHECK MACHINEPARA METER CORRECT CONTINUE PRODUCTION
PANEL CHECKING
BUNDLING
ISSUE TO SEWING
RESET M/C
RE-CUTTING
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Operator is to receive lay report from numbering section. Operator is to observe lay report to know following details: Lot Number Purchase order Style Colour Number of plies Serial number Operator is to observe fabric type i.e. solid, checks, and stripes Operator is to also consider following. Fusing Type e.g. part fusing, knitted fusing, woven fusing etc. Lot no Style
Note: Fusing style has to match with the shell style.
Operator is to segregate cut fuse material as per size, colour, right side and left side. Operator is to set working parameter of fusing machine as per required quality or buyer setting parameter. In case of a new shell fabric, operator is to do trial fusing and get approval from the concerned. Normally working parameters are as follows:
.
Buyer
Temperature
Pressure
Speed
Raymond
130’C
3 Bar
7.5 m/min
Once working parameters are approved, operators is to observe following things before starting bulk fusing operation: Correct shell and fuse type. Correct shell and fuse size. Correct shell and fuse color and shade. Correct working parameter of a fusing material. Operator is to pass material gently on the conveyor belt of fusing machine. Note: Operator is to use entire machine belt area to feed the material. Operator is to collect fused material gently without any fold or wrinkle. Operator is to do fusing panel wise, size wise and color wise. Operator is to maintain machine and follow daily maintenance schedule.
99
PANEL INSPECTION This is essential a quality department process in which cut panel in random is checked for the dimensional accuracy by placing the top, middle, and bottom ply of any bulk parts on graded nested patterns. This process is usually performed to make sure that after cutting process and fusing, the part dimensions are intact. Any defect found here is sent for re-cutting, where parts are cut manually. FABRIC DEFECTS INSPECTION 1.Inspection Procedure Operator is to receive lot along with lay report from fusing section & observe lay report to know following details: Lot Number Style Serial Number Method of spreading Number of plies Quantity- lay wise and size wise Operator is to observe cut summary to know cut quantity-size and color wise Panel inspection (a) Cut panel pattern inspection:Operator is to inspect panel against respective pattern for Size Shape of panel Notch Note:Technical manager is to approve inspection pattern. Operator is to do inspection on 2.5 Acceptance Quality Level (AQL) bases. If lot gets rejected on 2.5 AQL bases, then go for 100 % inspection. . (b) Fabric defect inspection: Operator is to do 100 % panel inspection i.e. individual panel is to get inspected for following defects: Yarn defects, Weaving defects, Finishing defects, Cutting defects, and Spreading defects. Note: Operator has to check panel on transparent glass checking table-having light 500-600 Lux.
100
Operator is to remove defective panel from a lay and simultaneously, record defects in ‘Check Point Format’. Followed by that, operator is to give defective panels to recutting section by maintaining record of following details in internal re-cutting format. Purchase Order Style name Color Part Name or Number Lay number Serial number Note: Re-cutting section is to recut panel from the respective ply end bit to replace defective panel of a lay, do numbering and if necessary get it fused and give it back to Panel inspection section. Operator is to again inspect the recut panel, put it into respective bundle and update a record before issuing to sewing section.
2. Point to be noted during inspection: Cut panel inspection is to be conducted in a separate sub-section in cutting department. The defect standards to be displayed in subsection: i.e. acceptable, rejected is clearly marked and displayed separately. Replacement of defective part is to take place from same roll or same roll end-bits to avoid any shade variation. 3. Panel Inspection & Matching Point: Operator is to inspect & match respective panel as follows: BUNDLING This is a process in which individual parts are clubbed together in bunches and made ready for the process of issue to line. The bundling process is usually done lay wise and a standard numbering sequence generator is provided for bundling and the operators make sure that they arrange the different parts according to the required lays and make it ready to issue to lines in material handling trolleys. Here, the arrangement is made section wise. After bundling, the cut parts are issued to sewing lines by means of issue slip. RE-CUTTING AND MIS REPORT RE-CUTTING Apart from the regular process, a service requirement from cutting is re- cutting which is essentially a manual hand cutting process to cut parts which are either found defective in cutting inspection or brought from sewing section as damaged parts. Here, a record is kept
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in which the parts has been cut or at least the shade of the parts is matched before recutting. A separate area for rejected parts/ panels is designated to ease in identify and for further transactions.
MIS REPORTS Final cut report (FCR)
Fabric report
Order report Daily report
This report give the size wise cut quantities across each order and indicate short close or extra quantities of any size. This report is distributed to all the departments to make sure that they are geared up for all eventualities.
consumption Essentially indicates the amount of fabric consumed, the quantity cut and the fabric left over in roll and end bit and individual garment consumption. completion A part of the required is OCR, for which cutting will provide cut quantities, fabric consumed, fabric returned and cutting rejects. production Daily production report as a part of MIS requirement is provided as per Proman software.
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JACKET
Front Panel Size, shape and notch Front panel to side panel Front- dart cut at same point Right front to left Front Front to top sleeve Front panel – flap pocket Front panel to chest pocket Back Panel Size shape & notch Back panel to collar Back panel to back panel centreline Back panel to side panel Sleeve Size, shape and notch Top sleeve to under sleeve Lapel Size, shape and notch Lapel to lapel Lapel to front panel
TROUSER Front Panel: Size shape and notch Front panel to back panel Front panel to pocket facing Back Panel Size shape and notch Back Panel to back panel at seat seam. Waist band Right waist to left waistband Left waistband to left extension Note:Solid fabric inspects size, shape ¬ch.Checks& Strips inspects size, shape, notch & matching point as mentioned above
103
EMPLOYES DETAILS JACKET
104
105
MACHINE DETAIL Straight knife: Vertical blade. Reciprocate up and down. Corners and curves can be cut accurately. Most versatile and commonly used. Blade length 6-14 inches. Spread depth depends on blade length and adjustable height of the blade guard. All the pieces cut from a lay are identical.
STRAIGHT KNIFE
106
Band knife: Blade is narrower than straight knife. Blade is fixed and fabric is moveable. Block pieces of fabric required to cut. Knife is in band form so it is called band knife cutter machine. Blade width is 10mm. Available as both vertical and horizontal blade as per the requirements.
BAND KNIFE
AUTOMATIC CNC CUTTER
Cutting speed 46 m/min or 1800 inch/min. Cutting height compressed is 11cm. Can accept files from every major CAD/cam manufacturer. Cutting width 2000mm (78”) and cutting length 3300mm (130”). Equipped with the optional platform mover (OPM) which allows the cutter to move between spreading tables, greatly decreasing the time between the cuts.
107
Equipped with the conveyorized cutting surface that automatically seals cut pieces so that vacuum remains uniform. Four parameters: Cut speed Knife speed Vacuum level Knife wear
AUTOMATIC CNC CUTTER
108
PROCESS FLOW CHART - CUTTING File received from merchandiser
Pattern’s Soft copy
Cut order planning in ‘Morgan’ software acc to size break-up
Calculation of total fabric required
Marker is made in Gerber software
Calculation of average marker consumption
Wastage allowance is added(2%)
Fabric inspection
Fabric amount available is checked in ‘Stage’ Width report received from fabric section
Roll’s allocation is done in ‘PROMAN’ or in MS Excel
Material requisition is sent to fabric section Fabric issue to cutting section Lay report Counting of no. of rolls Plan sheet
Lay scheduling
Article and material wise segregation
Laying/spreading
Cutting
Numbering Fusing
Issue to sewing lines Bundling
Panel checking
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Numbering Separate garment components are numbered. It is important to avoid shade variation in a garment. To ensure that in stitching all components from same layer are stitched together.
Fusing Fusing is basically anything which is used between two layers of fabric to give more body. A fusible interlining is thin layer made from woven, knitted or non-woven material bonded mechanically or thermally which when fused with fabric panel can give reinforcement, durability and can also stabilize and makes sewing work easier while sewing.
Fusing machine There are 9 fusing machine used in SSAL-II, of which 7 is used for jacket components and rest 2 for trouser panels.
FUSING MACHINE FOR JACKET PANELS
110
FUSING MACHINE FOR TROUSER PANELS
FUSING MATERIAL Three types of fusing materials are used in SSAL-II: Body fusing -Woven fusing -White and black in colour - front panel and sometimes in lapel of jacket Part fusing -Non- woven fusing -White or charcoal in colour -Collar, shoulder, side seam, inseam, arm-hole, bottom line, dart, pocket, bone, flap etc.
111
N.R. fusing -Presence of nylon thread in non-woven fusing -White or black in colour -Side seam, inseam, collar and shoulder White fusing -Named after its colour -Used as per the buyers requirement
PARTS WHICH NEED FUSING:
JACKET
FRONT- armhole, shoulder, neck, dart. LAPEL- lapel fusing, N R fusing piece. TOP SLEEVE- sleeve armhole fusing with moon patch, bottom fusing. BACK- shoulder and neck, back armhole, bottom and vent. SIDE PANEL- armhole, bottom. IN SLEEVE-armhole, bottom.
TROUSER WAIST BAND RIGHT AND LEFT FLY BONE
SIGNIFICANCE OF FUSING: Garments with fusing tend to be stronger, because of the added layer for fabric support. Prevents seam opening. They drape better compared to non-interlined garments
112
SEWING DEPARTMENT Sewing department’s function is the crucial and most vital job in a garment industry. This is the place where actual production takes place. After the fabric is released from cutting, it is passed on to the sewing department for the sewing. The various parts are stitched together to form the garments. The sewing section is comprised of: 1. Trouser Lines 2. Jacket Lines
SEWING DEPARTMENT PLANT LAYOUT
113
JACKET LINEPLANT LAYOUT
114
DEPARTMENTAL CHART
115
SOP
116
EMPLOYES DETAILS
LI NE 1 LI NE 2 LI NE 3 LI NE 4 LI NE 5 LI NE 6 LI NE 7
PRODUCTIO N EXECUTIVE 1 VIMAL
I.E
LINE CHARGE
1 SHARW AN
IN TECHNICIA N MANAGER 1 1 MOKHTAR DAVIS
QUALITY EXECUTIV E 1 RATIKANTH DAS
QUALITY IN CHARGE 1 ANIL JAMES
VIMAL
LACHES RAVI WARAN
DAVIS
RATIKANTH DAS
RANJAN
RAKESH
PRASH ANT
AJAY
DAVIS
RATIKANTH DAS
VEDPRAKAS H
SANDEEP
PRASH ANT
BABU
DAVIS
RATIKANTH DAS
ANJI
TUSHAR
SHARW AN
GOPAL KRISHNA
DAVIS
RATIKANTH DAS
PADAM
ANKIT
LACHES SUNIL KUMAR WARAN
DAVIS
RATIKANTH DAS
RAMAMJI
NULL
NULL
SUGAM PAL DAVIS AND RAVINDAR
RATIKANTH DAS
SANTOSH
OVERVIEW OF JACKET SECTION
MACHINE USED S.NO.
MACHINE TYPE
NO. OF MACHINE
1
SNLS
273
2
ZIG ZAG
35
3
TOPPER
127
4
AUTO ZIG
7
5
AUTO DART
3
117
6
BARTACK
28
7
BASTING
28
8
BUTTONHOLE SEW
14
9
FIT
84
10
AUTOWELT
21
11
SNLS DROP FEED
14
12
BLIND HEM
14
13
SAMHOLE
7
14
FIT WITH BUCK
7
15
BUTTON SEW
7
16
SNLS DIFFERENTIAL FEED BUTTON HOLE
14
TOTAL
689
TOTAL NO. OF OPERATOR
820
17
14
The different types of jackets made at Raymond Ltd are: Half Canvas No vent Single Centre Vent Double vent (one on each side) Full Lining Half Lining
118
Various fabrics used in jacket are: 1) 2) 3) 4) 5) 6) 7)
Shell fabric Lining fabric Knitted fusing Parts Woven fusing Woven Reinforcement Canvas Felt
JACKET SECTION There are six jacket lines at Raymond, the brief description of their capacity and workers is as follows: Jacket section is composed of: Small Parts Section- canvas, facing flaps& facing Collar Front Section Lining Section Sleeve Section Assembly Section The sewing SAM for a basic Jacket is approx. 65-70 min. The Jacket line follows the UPS system of production. The material moves on pneumatically controlled overhead hangers. The different types of jackets made at Silver Spark Apparel Ltd Unit–II are:
Floating Canvas or Engineered Jacket Half Canvas Full Canvas No vent Single Centre Vent Double vent (one on each side) Full Lining Half Lining
VARIOUS FABRICS USED IN JACKET: Shell fabric Lining fabric Small Parts Knitted fusing Parts Woven fusing
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Woven Reinforcement
LINING FABRIC
Trims & Accessories
SHELL FABRIC PARTS NAME
CUT PARTS
Front
2
Back
2
Side panel
2
Front Facing
2
Top sleeve
2
Under sleeve
2
Breast pocket
1
Breast pocket facing
SMALL PARTS PARTS NAME
CUT PARTS
Chest felt
2
Chest canvas
2
Small Chest canvas
2
1
Patti
2
Top collar
1
2
Collar band
1
Big Chest canvas Sleeve head felt
Front pocket bone
2
Sleeve head canvas
2
Front pocket flap
2
Sleeve head canvas
2
TOTAL
20
Sleeve head canvas
2
Sleeve head canvas
2 20
TOTAL
2
120
PARTS NAME
CUT PARTS
Back
2
Front
2
Side body
2
Top sleeve
2
Under sleeve
2
Cigarette pocket lining
1
Welt pocket
2
Front arm tape
1
Flap lining
2
Triangle flap
1
Cigarette pocket bone
1
Cigarette pocket face
1
In pocket facing
2
In pocket bone
2
Pocket face
2
Sweat shield
4
TOTAL
29
SMALL PARTS LINING PARTS FRONT PARTS KNITTED FUSING PARTS FUSING REINFORCEMENT TOTAL PARTS (JKT)
20 29 20 5 14 3 88
121
TRIMS & ACCESSORIES
1) Shoulder pad 2) Thread 3) Satin tape 4) Size label 5) Neck label 6) Content/Care label 7) Sleeve label 8) Main label or brand label 9) Bridle tape Felling tape 10) Besom tape 11) Armhole tape 12) Double sided fusing with paper 13) Double sided fusing without paper 14) Poly bag 15) Hanger
JACKET LINE-1
Production /day:- 2500-3000(approx..) No of operators: 110 Total no of machines: 134 Buyers:
JC Penny Total No. Of Operators=119
122
Machine Operators= 109; Pairing Operator=2; Inspectors=6; Feeding Helper=2
Total No. of Machines=114
Manual(Marking Tables)= 8; Automatic=101; Inspection Tables=3; Inspection Hangers=2
Production Executive: Mr. Vimal Kumar I.E: Supervisor –
Mr. Sharwan Kumar and Prashant Kumar Sunil Sharma (front) Ajay Dabral (assembly II)
Team leader- Asha H.R (Front I) Anitha N (Front II) Gracy (Lining) Roopa H.M (Sleeve) Netravati (Collar)
123
PROCESS FLOW
124
125
126
TROUSER LINE ORGANIZATION CHART
127
DEPARTMENT LAYOUT S.NO.
MACHINE TYPE
NUMBERS OF MACHINES
NO. OF MACHINE
128 1
3-THREAD O/L
24
2
AUTO DART
6
3
AUTO FACING
6
4
AUTO ZIG
6
5
AUTO SERGING
6
6
AUTO WELT
6
7
BACK POCKET PRESSING
6
8
BLIND HEM
18
9 10
BUCK VACCUM TABLE BUTTON OLE
6 12
11
BUTTON SEW
12
12
DNCS
6
13
FIT
12
14
FUSING MACINE
18
15
HOOK AND BAR ATTACH
6
16 17
PINKING MACHINE PINTACK
6 1
18
SADDLE STICH
12
19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 89
SIDE SEAM PRESS SNCS SNLS SNLS DIFFERENTIAL FEED SNLS DROP FEED SNLS EDGE CUTTER SNLS NEEDLE FEED BARTACK WRAPING MACHINE YKK ZIP DART PRESS TOTAL MACHINETOTAL WORKER
6 12 12 6 48 12 24 30 6 12 6 343 330
EMPLOYS DETAILS
129
LIN E1 LIN E2 LIN E3 LIN E4 LIN E5 LIN E6
PRODUCTION EXECUTIVE
I.E
LINE IN TECHNICAL CHARGE MANAGER
QUALITY EXECUTIVE
QC IN CHARGE MAINTEN ANCE
1 DHERAJ/SUMI T DHERAJ/SUMI T DHERAJ/SUMI T DHERAJ/SUMI T DHERAJ/SUMI T DHERAJ/SUMI T
1 JUBAI
1 NULL
NARENDAR NARENDAR
1 DEV
1 RAMU
NULL
NARENDAR
DEV
RAMU
1 KRISHAN APA ANAND
JUBAI RAM
NULL
NARENDAR
DEV
RAMU
ASWATH
RAM
NULL
NARENDAR
DEV
RAMU
RAM
HARI BABU HARI BABU
NARENDAR
DEV
RAMU
BABU KHAN VASANTH
NARENDAR
DEV
RAMU
MUTHU
JUBAI
The operation of Trousers line is categorized into three sections; • Preparatory section • Front and back line • Assembly line. In the preparatory section the basic parts of the garment is matched and graded for the production. Then it is send to the front and back end line where the front side and the backside of a trouser are made and finally to the assembly line for the final assembling of the parts. The material handling and movement in the preparatory and front & back sections is on waterfall trolleys and the assembly lines are based on UPS system. The material flow is on manually controlled overhead trolleys. There are six trouser line, the brief description of their capacity and worker is as follows:
Line number Line No.
Installed Capacity
Average Daily Prod.
clients Client
130
500 Line 1 Line 1
410 500 600
Line 2
450 350
Levis Export
Line 2 Line 3
500 500
400 450
Line 3 Line 4
500 500
350 390
Line 5 Line 4
500 500
400 200
Line 6
500
400
RAL
The different types of trousers made are:
Trouser with Knee Lining Double pleated Single pleated Flat front
Operations of a standard trouser calculated:
TIME
PER TAKT TIME
OPERATIONS
PIECE(IN SEC.)
AUTO SERGING FRONT RISE O/L AUTO DART PRESSING AD FUSING M/C AUTO WELT FRONT POCKET ATTACH FRONT POCKET LOCKING PRESSING OF FRONT POCKET FLY ATTACH TO FRONT PRESSING OF WELT POCKET
44 22 23 35 53 30 28 32 42 30
48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48
NO.OF OPERATORS Park1Avenue 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
131
EDGE STITCH ON WELT POCKET 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48
1
BUTTON HOLING POCKET FLAP ATTACHMENT LOCK TOP WELT BACK RISE BINDING B/T ON WELT POCKET POCKET BAG BINDING POCKET BAG CLOSING B/A ON WELT POCKET FACING O/L SIDE SEAM JOIN
30 18 40 34 34 32 32 40 32 30 40
INSEAM JOIN
30
48
2
48
48
1
39 34
48 48
2 1
24 36 PAD 35
48 48 48
1 1 1
48
52
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2
DUMMY STITCH ON BACK POCKET BAG SEAM BURSTING MARKING
BOTTOM SERGE BOTTOM HEM LEATHER ATTACHMENT TOTAL
32MINUTES
132
LOOP ATTACHMENT WB LINING ATTACH WB ATTACH TO TROUSER BODY WB EXTN FINISHING R.FLY LINING ATTACH RIGHT AND LEFT FLY PRESS J STITCH FRONT RISE ATTACH R.FLY ES SLIDER ATTACHMENT BACK RISE LABEL ATTACH WASH CARE AND SIZE PRESS LABEL BACK RISE PRESS WB BUTTON HOLING BUTTON ATTACH POCKET BAG TACKING FRONT POCKET AND FLY LOOP B/T DOWN B/T W/B DITCH STITCH LOOP FINISH B/T CROTCH TAIL FINISH
32 34
48 48
1 1
57
48
3
38 54 20 33 35 30 30 50 46 37 30 44 23 5 28 37 40 41 42 30
48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Line efficiency:41% Line abseentism:6-8% DHU:5-7% Critical operations: waistband attach, front & back rise, loop finishing, bar tack, back pocket closing, automatic welting Bottleneck operations: welt pocket Allowances: contingency-2%, PFD-10% Totaloperators:52
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Machine details
FRONT & BACK MACHINE TYPE Front & back panel serging (Rise, Inseam & outseam) Trolley Loading Auto Serging Table Fuse front panel at pkt seam FIT Front pocket attach & cut notch Press Front pocket seam Top stitch front pocket & top locks Left & right fly attach Facing Side O/L Back darts Press Back darts
SNLS Drop feed FIT SNLS Needle feed SNLS Drop feed 3 T O/L Auto dart Topper Auto pocket welting
Pocket welting Press welt pockets Edge stitch on welt facing Button hole back pocket Lock top welt with pocket bag Restitch back pocket Bartack back pocket Button sew to back pocket Front / Back pairing / w/b pairing Sideseam & inseam join Press open Side & inseam ASSEMBLY Hanger loading & marking Stay stitch on body Loops att
Topper SNLS Drop feed Button Hole SNLS Needle feed SNLS Needle feed Bartack Button Sew Table SNCS Seam bursting
Waistband Waistband att extn lock & turn Attach Lining to right fly & turn Press w/b extn, left & right fly Hook & Bar attach Close w/b extn & J stitch Join Front rise Edge stitch on right fly
SNLS Edge cutter SNLS Edge cutter FIT Hook & Bar SNLS Needle feed SNLS Drop feed SNLS Drop feed
Slider & stopper att Back rise
YKK TNCS
Table SNLS Edge cutter SNLS Edge cutter SNLS Differential feed
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Press back rise Press Waistband Sew button hole on waistband Sew buttons on waistband
Topper Topper Button Hole Button Sew
Bartack front pocket & fly
Bartack
Down bartack loops & /attach loopswaistband Curtain fell waistband Ditch centre stitch finish
Bartack
Finish loops Crotch attach & finish Spot tack waistband Bottom O/L
Blind stitch - w/b Bartack SNLS Needle feed Spot tack 3 T O/L Blind stitch -Bottom
Hem bottom SECTION PREPARATORY Front & back pocket facing attach Hem & attach coin pocket Overlock pocket bag Turn & Press pocket bag Top stitch front pkt / W/b extn att Fuse W/b, fly & welt pcs Attach W/b lining & top stitch Blind stitch loops ready Fly O/L / Bind left fly Zipper att to left fly Cut & gape zip Right fly zipper att / Crotch binding
Auto facing SNLS Needle feed 5 T O/L FIT SNLS Needle feed / Auto jig Fusing m/c SNLS Drop feed Blind stitch–loop making 3T O/L M/c /SNLS Drop feed Auto zipper YKK SNLS Drop feed
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SEWING NEEDLES USED FOR DIFFERENT OPERATIONS
S. NO
MACHINE/OPEARATION
NEEDLE
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
SNLS (Needle Bar) Overclock DNLS Pocket Welting Sleeve welting Bast (flat width) Button Attach Button Hole Flat Lock Spot Tacking Bottom Hemming
12 13 14
Saddle stitch Button Attach Bar tag
DP*5, DB*1 DC*1 DP*5, DP*17 DP*35, DP*85 DP*85 DP*35/ DP*85 MT*190 (front jacket) DO*558 TU*5 TU*7 1717 SRUE 1169E/4669E (Duerkopp Adler) LW*1 (Juki, Brother) 1828E (Strobel) DP*5, DP*12, CP*1 DP*17 DP*5
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FINISHING DEPARTMENT FINISHING
Finishing is the last step of the garment production. Garments are washed, pressed and packed into poly bags.
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The objectives of finishing are: • Improve the appearance of the garments • To give the proper shape to the different parts of the garment which is most important in case of jackets. • Improve the drape by pressing • Improve the durability of the garments • Packing for dispatch
JACKET FINISHING: Washing of garments: 1. Tools used: Air gun/chemical gun Boiler water/ per chloro ethylene/ surgical spirit. 2. Functions: To remove white pencil mark per chlro ethylene is used. To remove water mark, patch mark, pen mark surgical spirit is used.
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DEPARTMENT LAYOUT
139
ORGANIZATION CHART
140
SOP
141
EMPLOYES DETAILS
Lin e1 Lin e2 Lin e3 Lin e4 Lin e5 Lin e6 Lin e7
TECHNICIAN /PRESSING
FINISHING EXECUTIVE
FINISHING I.E
FINISHING IN CHARGE
SUPERVISOR
TEAM LEADER
1 RAM NIWAS YADAV RAM NIWAS YADAV RAM NIWAS YADAV RAM NIWAS YADAV RAM NIWAS YADAV RAM NIWAS YADAV RAM NIWAS YADAV
1 DEEPAK KUMAR DEEPAK KUMAR DEEPAK KUMAR DEEPAK KUMAR DEEPAK KUMAR DEEPAK KUMAR DEEPAK KUMAR
2 NIKHIL DEVDUTT NIKHIL DEVDUTT NIKHIL DEVDUTT NIKHIL DEVDUTT NIKHIL DEVDUTT NIKHIL DEVDUTT NIKHIL DEVDUTT
1 MUGAM
1 JAIMAA
NIKHIL
2 MANISH MUGAM NULL
DEVDUTT
RAM AVATAR
DEVDUTT
NULL
MUGAM MUGAM
MANISH MUGAM NATHULAL
DEVDUTT
NULL
Pressing:
Sleeve press Back press Front press Elbow press Shoulder press Collar press Nipping(under armhole press) Blocking(outer armhole press) Lining press Lapel press
Packing:
Brand tag. Size ring. Joker tag. Hanger sticker. Polybag Size slider
BASANT A RENUK AMA ASHWA NI AMBIK A NAGMA NI NULL
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PROCESS FLOW
WASHING
SLEEVE PRESSING
ELBOW PRESSING
FRONT PRESSING
LINING PRESSING
COLLAR PRESSING
SHOULDER PRESSING
BACK PRESSING
NIPPING
BLOCKING
PACKAGING
TOUCH UP
INSPECTION
BUTTON ATTACH
LAPEL PRESS
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TROUSER FINISHING: The trouser finishing department is very small as compare to jacket finishing. It includes following sub-processes.
1. Spot cleaning Uses spirit or perchloro ethylene for spot cleaning purpose. 2. Legger press 3. Topper press 4. Packing Brand tag. Size tag. Polybag
DEPARTMENT LAYOUT
144
ORGANIZATION CHART
145
EMPLOYES DETAILS
Lin e1 Lin e2 Lin e3 Lin e4 Lin e5 Lin e6
TECHNICIAN/P RESSING
FINISHING EXECUTIVE
FINISHIN G I.E
FINISHING IN SUPERVI CHARGE SOR
TEAM LEADER
1 RAM NIWAS
1 SUNIL KOLA
0 NULL
0 NULL
1 ARUNA
RAM NIWAS
SUNIL KOLA
NULL
NULL
ARUNA
RAM NIWAS
SUNIL KOLA
NULL
NULL
RAM NIWAS
SUNIL KOLA
NULL
NULL
RAM NIWAS
SUNIL KOLA
NULL
NULL
NETHRA WATI NETHRA WATI ANAPPA
1 NAGRATN A NAGMAN I NARSIM MURTI LAKSHMI
RAM NIWAS
SUNIL KOLA
NULL
NULL
ANAPPA
PROCESS FLOW
BUTTON WRAPPING
LEGGER PRESS
TOPPER
PACKING
GARMENT ON HANGER
BOX PACKING
GAYTERI YASODHA
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MACHINE DETAILS FOR JACKET 1. Spotting Machine: This machine is used to remove the chalk marks or any other type of marks in the jacket. This is not exactly a machine but a spray gun containing stain removing agent. 2. Sleeve Pressing Machine: This machine is used to press the sleeves of the jackets. The machine has itself got an extended part like the hands. The sleeve is worn to it and automatically pressed. Before it gets automatically pressed the operator uses the hand iron to 3. Back Pressing. This machine is used to press the back of the jacket. This is also a type of buck press and in this the jacket is kept between the two bucks of shape like the human back. It is a product from Macpi
4. Front Pressing. The front pressing is similar to back pressing but here the shape of the buck is like the front of the human body.
5. Buck Flap Turning & Pressing Machine: In this the flaps of the jackets are turned and pressed. This machine is specialized for this purpose is one of the most expensive and unique machines.
6. Buck Shoulder Pad Pressing This is a very unique and special machine in this machine there are two independent sections right shoulder and left shoulder. Each section composed by three shapes: one lower shape with vacuum and two steaming upper shapes. The upper shapes work in a sequential way with the lower ones. Double pressing on the upper side of the shoulder avoids leaving impressions on the fabric for excellent results.
7. Collar Pressing: The collar pressing machine is also a kind of buck pressing machine. In this a collar shaped buck is attached to the machine body and the collar is placed between the bucks. This machine gives a perfectly finished collar.
8. Armhole Nipping: This machine presses the cap height of the garment.
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9. Front Button Attach The job of attaching the front button is done in the finishing area. The make of the machine is LOIVA ST-10.
10.Pocket Button Attach the pocket button attaching machine is same as the general button attaching machine. The make of the machine is PFAFF3307
11.Touch Up Press this is a type of iron press. It does not apply much pressure to the garment. It is used to remove the little leftover crease or fold. It basically gives the final look of the garment.
12.Lapel Press: This is used to press the lapel of the jacket. In this machine there are provisions for adjustments as per the lapel length. 13.Fit Shaped Ironing Table: this is gives the jacket its final touch. This is a manual machine. The operator presses one side and then with the help of the turning handle turns the machine and presses the other jacket in the other side. In this machine two jackets can be pressed at a time.
14.Automatic Jacket Finisher.: this is the automatic version of the fit shaped iron table. Here the operator does not have to manual turn the machine hence saves on to time factor. The pressure and temperature are also automatically set in it.
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JACKET FINISHING PROCESS FLOW
Spot washing
Front & Back Pressing Shoulder Pressing
Shoulder Pressing
Sleeve Blocking
Collar Pressing
Lining Pressing
Elbow Pressing
Lapel Pressing
Button attach
Wrapping & knotting
Auditing
Inspection
Warehouse
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Packaging trims used in jacket finishing by the finishing departmentFor domestic orders
Barcode String Additional dangler Extra button (2 buttons, one of 24 L and one for 32L). Hanger. Sleeve label. Additional sleeve label. For export ordersHang tag. Joker tag. Hanger. Poly bag. Size ring. Sleeve label. Extra button (2 buttons, one of 24L and one of 32L).
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TROUSER FINISHING DETAILS OF THE MACHINES 1. Vacuum table: these are the pressing tables where there is a system of generating vacuum while ironing. The iron used is the general hand press iron. The model number of these tables is WEISHI YTP-W20. There are 12 vacuum tables 4 in each line. 2. Up steam table: In this kind of tables there is the technique of providing steam through the small openings of the table. This make the steam pass through the garment making the garment look neater. The make of this machine set is WEISHI YTP-W28B. There are 12 up stream table 4 in each row. 3. Form finisher: The form presser is a type of machine in which a body form is attached to the machine the trouser is worn to the body form and then pressed. 4. Legger machine: This machine is used for giving crease in the required areas of the trousers.This machine has a leg shape extended part which is put inside the trouser like a leg. After this the hand press is used to make the crease. 5. Stain removing gun: during the sewing process most of the times there is probability of garments to catch stains. It is important to remove these stains. Benzene alcohol is used as stain removing agent. There is a container containing this agent, this is then attested to a pipe, the other end of this pipe has a spray gun. The area containing the stain is exposed to this gun. This agent acts on to the stains to eradicate it. The operator continues this process until the stain is removed from the garment. 6. Topper machine: the trouser.
the topper machine is used to remove the pleat or crease folds from
7. Buck flap turning & pressing this machine is used for pressing and turning the flaps of the garment. In a trouser mostly flaps are used with welt pockets. 8. Buck bottom press: In this machine the bottoms of the trousers were finished. To bring the drape and the look of any trouser the bottom hem should be finished properly. In this machine there are bucks for giving shape to the trouser. 9. Dusting machine: the dusting machine is used to remove the loose threads from the garment. These loose threads are due to the result of sewing.
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TROUSER FINISHING PROCESS FLOW
Thread Trimming
Thread sucking / Dusting
Legger
Topper
Touch Up
Spotting
Quality check
Packing
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Packaging trims used in trouser finishingFor domestic orders
Bar code Hang tag Poly bag U-clip Poly bag sticker Carton Carton sticker Divider
For export orders
Waist band tag Hanger Hanger string Size ring Poly cover Poly bag sticker Carton Carton sticker Divider
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WAREHOUSE
A ware house is a commercial building for storage of goods . Ware house are used by manufacturers , importers , exporters , wholesalers , transport business , customs etc . The main purpose of warehouses was the packing, checking, labelling and packing of goods for exports. Raymond Ltd. Suit Plant has an international standard warehouse where more than 16800 garments can be contained at a time. Warehouse is the place where jackets and trousers are paired (for suit orders) and stored after finishing. DEPARTMENT LAYOUT
154
SOP
155
TOTAL CAPACITY OF WAREHOUSE TOTAL NO OF WORKERS
= 20
TOTAL CAPACITY OF WAREHOUSE :
TROUSER
CAPACITY
NO OF LINES WITH 8 SECTIONS AND 4 ROWS ( 2)
9600
NO OF LINES WITH 6 SECTION AND 4 ROWS (2)
7200
TOTAL
16800
JACKET
CAPACITY
NO OF LINES WITH 16 SECTIONS AND 4 ROWS (10)
38400
NO OF LINES WITH 8 SECTIONS AND 4 ROWS (4)
13440
NO OF LINES WITH 12 SECTIONS AND 4 ROWS (2)
5760
TOTAL
57600
MAX NO OF JACKET IN EACH SECTION = 60 MAX NO OF TROUSER IN EACH SECTION = 150
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CHECKLIST FOR PACKAGING
SLEEVE LABLE JOKER TAG HANG TAG HANGER SIZE RING POLY BAG STICKERS
CHECKLIST OF DOCUMENTS (SHIPMENT) •
CHECKLISTS FOR CONTAINER LOADING
•
PACKING LIST
•
CONTAINER LOADING CLIP
•
CONTAINER PHOTOS
•
OCR ( ORDER COMPLITION REPORT )
•
CT-PAT –PHOTOCOPY(CUSTOMS TRADE PARTNERSHIP AGAINST TERROSIM)
•
METAL DETECTION SOP
157
PROCESS FLOW Scan the incoming gmts
Issue of location plan
Store as per location plan/highlight qty and PO on board
Issuing order note from merchandiser to W/H in charge
W/H incharge to prepare pkg list in excel
Issuing it for quality and ware house
Quality audit
Container inspection and taking the pictures of empty container
Manual counting of gmts by security personnel
Loading of gmts into the container
Taking image of loaded container and sealing
Dispatch
158
INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING Industrial engineering department is the brain of any industry and garment industry is no other exception. The operation of this department starts from the receipt of the order from the buyer. Once the customers place the order the merchandise department forwards the order to the industrial engineering department for the processing. As the order is procured the sample garment is first handed over to the IED to calculate the thread consumption and trim consumption. As the orders are confirmed a copy of purchase order is sent to the IED and IED prepares an operation bulletin. Based on the operation bulletin the IED works out the SAM values and plans the line on 75% efficiency. Depending on the SAM values the IED allot number of operators to each operation. The IED then sends the requirement of operators, machines and folders to the PPC department that at 75% efficiency to produce 1000 pieces per day we require these many operators and machines. After the operation bulletin sheets are ready the IED generates a list of machines, folders and guides required and sends it to the maintenance department. Then they prepare the line layout in such a manner that the flow of materials in the line is unidirectional. Besides this the IED performs the important task of maintaining the skill inventory which is updated every month. IED also keeps a track on the hourly production and maintains the daily WIP report and daily production report which is sent to the PPC department. Apart from this the IED also takes care of the work methods that are being used on the floor. Besides this the IED also plans and balance the line on a daily basis keeping the absenteeism and other factors in consideration. The different functions of the IED are as follows:
The IED department helps the planning department to know the time required for the production of that particular style of the garment by calculating the SAM value for it and they also help in knowing the capacity of the factory based on which the planning department takes a decision if they have to proceed with the item or no. The IED calculates the SAM value for the garment, calculates the productivity of the given style for the initial costing and also calculates or counts the accessories consumption by the style and gives all these details to the merchandising department for the costing purpose because the entire costing criteria depends on these aspects and the IED also gives the merchants suggestions regarding the reduction of the cost of manufacturing the garment by modifying any of the steps and the method of doing it. The IED people using the (GSD) General Sewing Data prepare the style bulletin which includes the different types of seams and stitches that has to be done for the garment and it also includes the length of the seams and the types of stitches that
159
has to be carried out at different places of the garment as per the buyers specifications and approval. Types of thread (which is the TEX), area of placement of the trims and accessories and its location different kinds of labels that are supposed to be placed, the criteria under which the finished garment has to be checked, the times at which the inspection has to be carried out will also be mentioned in the style bulletin, this bulletin will be similar to the Tech Pack but contains more technical data than that.
This department will analyze and estimate the manpower and their skill level which is required for the production of the garment, they also set a target to the batch for an hour, for a shift and for a month which will help them to maintain their outputs and also helps in timely completion of the order or sometimes earlier. They will also give the target to each operator based on his/her capacity and skill in order to help them finish their piece of work on time and also maintain the quality of their work. After setting the targets for a batch and also for each operator then they will calculate the efficiency. This efficiency is purely based on the daily output of the batch as well as the single operator and then they come up with the monthly output by the particular batch. This department maintains a file which is the DPR (Daily Production Report), in this report they update the batch number, style/item number, actual output, committed output, SAM value of the garment (both actual and that particular days SAM value), total production till date, average efficiency of the batch till date, peak efficiency achieved, if the company was working that day or not, if there was a delay of production then the reason behind it, information about the batch setting prior to the mass production, etc., all this will be mentioned in this DPR
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PROCESS FLOW OF WORKING OF THE IE DEPARTMENT Calculate SAM of garment freshly ordered to calculate different consumptions Work measurement of a new confirmed order
To advice production department on garment SAM and line layout Day to day activity To calculate line efficiency To calculate operators efficiency Grade change of operators Time and method study Line balancing Check for work aid and compliances Preparation of incentive scheme
161
QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT Quality Assurance department has its presence in every stages of the production. The Quality Assurance Department’s function starts with receipt of the fabric that is, once the fabric and trims reaches the stores the quality of the fabric and trims are checked. The operation continues throughout the cutting and sewing processes. After each operation the quality checks are done and in the finishing department a detailed quality check is done and is sent for alteration in case of any defects, finally approve the trousers and jackets for packing. The price of any garment is determined by its quality. Quality clothing last longer and inferior quality can break down fast in comparison to normal wear and tear. The Quality department is divided into Jacket and Trouser Section.
ORGANIZATION CART
BRIJ KISHORE SHARMA SENIOR MANAGER QUALITY ASSUARNACE
FABRIC & TRIMS STORES DUSHMANTH
CUTTING MUBHARAK
TROUSER SEWING DEBSOPAN NAYAK
JACKET SEWING RATHIKANTH DAS
TROUSER FINISHING RAM
JACKET FINISHING NIKHIL/DEODUTT
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For Jackets the Quality Check points are as follows: Panels Quality Check after cutting Section wise checking is done keeping in mind various quality check points. Random Measurement done at three points: • Front and Back Section • End Line • After finishing auditor checking is done (At warehouse level, internal audit)
FRONT&BACK
163
LININIG HOW TO MEASURE FRONT OF JACKET
HOW TO MEASURE BACK OF JACKET
164
HOW T MEASURE COLLAR AND LAPEL
165
ASSEMBLY SECTION-1 CHECKPOINT
ASSEMBLY SECTION -2 CHECKPOINT
166
For Trousers the following are the Quality Check points: Panels Quality Check after cutting Inline Checking Random Measurement is done at • Inline • End Line After finishing auditor checking is done (At warehouse level internal audit is done)
Objectives of Quality Department
The objective of quality department is impart quality in the product To ensure that the product has achieved the quality parameters of buyers. To restrict the defects entering into the final product
Sub objectives: To check the products for any defects To send back the pieces for alteration To recheck the altered pieces for any defects possible To clear the product for packing and shipment
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a. QC IN STORES Raw Material Inspection
Quality in store
Checking of product against approved fabric, fabric trims and trims
Checking fabric for 8 parameters and generation of 8 parameter report
Report sent to CAD department
Quality in cutting
168
Quality in sewing
Quality in finishing
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QUALITY PARAMETERS TO BE FOLLOWED AT FINAL CHECKING
Jacket Front 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
No wrinkle and leaping at the top collar Sharpness at the gorge Canvas settlement to be checked and looseness is to be avoided Flower hole is to be neatly stitched Breast pocket should be neat and clean giving a very good look Darts are to be stitched neatly Proper fitting of sleeves required avoiding the twisting. The sleeves should cover two third of the welt pockets 8. The sleeve fall is of great importance. It should be checked with clarity 9. The welt pocket flaps should match with the body to give a descent look 10. The welt pockets should be checked for any defect at the bartak position 11. The pockets are to be checked for any puckering 12. The bottom hem should be neat and pucker free 13. Front cut should be loose and well-shaped 14. The lining fullness and hand stitch quality should be checked at the cuff 15. Buttons should be properly placed without damage 16. Button hole placement should be perfect with neat stitch 17. Lapel balance and notch tip balance as well symmetry is a must 18. The lapel break line should be neat with proper fullness 19. Over lapping is required at the back seat to prevent the centre back lining seam from any kind of view 20. Armhole at seam should be neat and clean, and checked for any dimples
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Jacket back: 1. Collar at the back should be checked for balance, matching and setting 2. The shoulder should be checked for puckering and looseness 3. There should not be any wrinkle at the under arm 4. Sleeve elbow stitch and in seam are to be checked for proper fullness 5. Button stitch and placement is to be checked 6. Balance and fullness is to be checked in the vent(s). 7. Good shape and silhouette is required at the hip area in the back 8. Bottom hem line should be beautiful and pucker less 9. Back side seam should be checked for puckering 10. The centre back line is to be checked for puckering Jacket inside: 1. Neck band should be checked for fullness 2. Sleeve attach tacking should be neat 3. Sleeve back tacking should be neat 4. Sleeve back blind stitch should be neat and clean 5. The inside pockets should be checked for proper bartack and welt width 6. Facing and lining join should be proper and pucker free 7. Front edge should be neat and clean 8. Facing should be properly placed 9. Bottom hem should be perfect without any puckering. Quality issues in Trouser: Operations
Quality Issues
Serging Front
Follow the required fullness and lining shouldn’t be visible in front Check the panel shape Serging open Dart length and dart depth Dart should not be bend Check pleat evenness Check dart shape fusing length and width dart loose stitch & Puckering panel, pocketing & Bone serial no. should be same Check welt pocket up & down & Dart center out
Serging Back Dart making
Dart Pressing
Auto welting
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Welt pressing
Check dart center out Welt pocket edge damage Check bone dividing and shade Back rise binding Check binding width Puckering at back rise Front pocket attaching Serial no of front pocket and panel should be same Check front pocket open measurement & Side margin Front pocket pressing Check front pocket attaching margin Check front pocket shape Front pocket top stitch (kinari) Front pocket mouth roping Check front pocket locking tight & Looseness Check loose and Broken stitches Left & right fly attach Fly and panel serial no should be same Fly attaching Margin should be even Welt pocket facing edge stitch Puckering (kinari) Loose stitches Broken stitch Back pocket buttonhole Buttonhole cross Check dart center out Back pocket top welt locking Back pocket corner smiling Check Pocket edge dent Back pocket bartack Loose fabric need to be proper Pocket corner shape should be proper Check pocket corner edge damage Back pocket button attach Top & bottom bone should be even Check pocket smiling Check back pocket keyhole and button should be straight to the dart Back pocket pointed Check pocket pointed margin uneven Check back pocketing weaving Back pocket label attach Size in panel and Label should same facing looseness & Puckering Top dummy stitch Pocket looseness should be even on both side Side seam Puckering should not be there maintain pocket gaping, follow notch In seam Puckering should not be there & follow notch Waist band marking Check back pocket welting up & down Front pocket attach up & down Marking margin edges should be even
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Front pocket bag side locking
Locking stitch should not be too tight or loose Check pocketing raw edge Bottom pocketing piece should not be visible on top side
Front pocket back booking
Check the side seam top bend & tight Check the pocketing looseness at side seam booking area Loops should be center to the notch Loops should be symmetric between both sides Lining drop uneven Lining fullness should be even Check the back pocket up & down Waist band margin should be even No puckering Panel out Uneven shape and shape out Fly should be straight Uneven cutting or lining width Check the w/b lining shade Left fly bend Left fly should not visible at outside Right fly shape & it should not visible at outside Hook should be straight to the zipper Width uneven or puckering or bend at end W/b lining tight at inside Bend and tight Margin uneven Front & Back Inseam line should be match Right fly lining should not visible at outside inside fly lining should be even Check the Zipper up & down Fly should be straight Hook & Bar up & down Margin uneven or w/b up/down or V-shape of w/b Waistband & Back rise-Stripes & Checks should be match Placement wrong or stitch extended to fabric which cause stitch visible on fabric Wrong size label attach Slant size label attached Uneven drop Side pocket gapping should be even
Loop attach Waist band lining attach Waistband attach
Left extension closing Right fly lining attach Left & right fly pressing
Hook and bar J-stitch Front rise
Right fly top stitch Zip slider
Back rise stitching Label attach Size label attach W/B pressing Front pocket and fly bartack
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Down bartack
Loop slant Waistband to Bartack margin should be even inside Lining should not be Fold Waistband hem curtain felling Lining should not be looseness & tight Waistband drop uneven Waistband hem body attach Waistband extension keyhole Key hole shouldn’t be slant Waistband extension button Check button shade & Placement attach Button marking should match with the Keyhole Slider up & Down Loop finishing bartack Loop slant Bartack placement should be parallel to Waistband top Pintack Body Should not attach with pintack stitch Check the pintack placements Crotch tacking Crotch should not be too loose or tight Bottom hem overlock Overlock seam should be straight Panel up & Down in Bottom Bottom hem Bottom hem pinching, puckering, broken and skip stitches Side seam and in seam line should be match Hem stitch should be in center of overlock stitch Bottom cuff tacking Bottom cuff width should be even Button warps Loose stitch or not done properly
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MAINTENANCE
At Silver spark apparel limited UNIT II; we have the Maintenance Department, which includes four major sections of the industry. The department is responsible for all the maintenance activities in the organization. This department does all sorts of maintenanceIt takes care of the Boilers, Utility Section, the Conveyer Belt system and the Pressing section. This department is responsible for the following:
The R&D, IED and maintenance department work together for deciding the machinery, type of pressure foot and attachments that will be used for new order in the line. Maintain machines throughout by carrying out Preventive Maintenance and scheduled maintenance. Reducing of machine down time to meet timely shipment Maintenance of all the machines and machine parts. Buying of new needles, machine parts, attachments, pressure foot. Maintaining broken needle control log Registers are maintained for broken needles and new needles are issued only after returning all the pieces of the broken needle. If the small pieces are not found then the garments being run on that machine are passed through needle detecting machine
Maintenance department maintains all the electronic components. In maintenance department there are 25 worker and four electricians. Work done by maintenance department:
Servicing of machine. Checking of Boilers for steam. Electricity supply—if power is gone then starting of generator. Building maintenance. Oil change. Replacement of defective parts Servicing of Motor.
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ORGANIZATION CHART
176
SOP
177
The Maintenance Department: HEAD OF DEPARTMENT
1
ASSISTANT MANAGERS 3 WORKERS 6 MECHANICS 10 HELPERS 2 The roles and responsibilities of the Maintenance Department are as follows: 1. Attend the machines during breakdowns and put them back to work. 2. Keep sufficient materials and spares in stock. 3. Look after boilers system and the pipelines supplying steam to the entire system in the industry. 4. Responsibility of the rain water harvesting pond. 5. Training of the mechanics for attending the machines during breakdowns, whenever a new machine is installed in the industry. 6. Preventive maintenance for all the machines in the industry. 7. Proper cleaning, oiling, greasing and checking of the machines. 8. Have a good inventory management system. 9. Purchase orders must be given on time so that machines do not stay idle for longer time periods. 10. Reduction of the breakdown times and idle times of the machines. 11. Improve the quality of the garments by improving the working quality of the machinery. 12. Should try for the implementation of autonomous maintenance in the sewing lines, so that major problems occurring can be worked upon and eradicated.
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MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT FLOW PROCESS (DURING MACHINE BREAKDOWN)
START
OPERATOR FINDS PROBLEMS WITH THE MACHINE (INTIMATION)
INFORMS SUPERVISOR / TEAM LEADER
LINE MECHANIC (line mechanic writes break down report, the time, nature of problem, finish time, etc.)
IF REPAIRED
STORE MECHANIC (provides new machine parts)
MACHINE REPAIRED BY REPLACING THE DAMAGED PARTS
FILLING OF MACHINE BREAKDOWN REPORT BY LINE MECHANIC
STOP
FIXES THE M/C TO WORKING CONDITION
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MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT FLOW PROCESS (FLOW OF MATERIAL) START (Need for equipment / spares)
INDENT ENTRY (purchase requisition slip)
PURCHASE PURPOSE (permission from higher authorities)
(After permission granted) PURCHASE ORDERS GIVEN
QUALITY CHECK BY THE TRAINED MECHANICS (includes quality checking, working condition)
GENERATION OF GOODS RECEIVING NOTES OR GRN (counting the number of goods received + entry done on STAGE 6.1.)
LOCATING THE REQUIRED AMOUNT OF SPACE TO LOAD THE RECEIVED STOCK
PROVIDING THE LOADED TRUCK STOCK WHENEVER IT IS REQUIRED BY MACHINE ASSET CODE NUMBER
ISSUE SLIP
STOP
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MACHINE BREAKDOWN REPORT FORMAT In general, Preventive Maintenance is followed in the industry to keep a check over the machinery and their condition. Every day after the working hours, the operators have been trained to clean the machines using air guns. Weekly, a preventive maintenance program is carried out for all the machines. Parameters that are checked are as follows: 1. Air circulation 2. Oil check 3. Oil circulation 4. Motion of spares 5. Rusting 6. Greasing 7. Name of the mechanic attending the machine 8. Asset code of the machine 9. Signatures of the mechanic 10. Operation name 11. Name of the machine 12. Sewing line number 13. Date / day the preventive maintenance was carried out. Apart from that the company follows a standard method of reporting the MACHINERY BREAKDOWNS. The major features of this report are as follows: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.
Date Sewing line no. Machine asset code number Operation done Time of breakdown Mechanic Attending (signatures) Time on the completion of repair Nature of problem Total idle time.
This particular format is followed for all the sewing lines. A common sheet is set up every day over a board which is easily accessible and visible. Whenever a breakdown happens the operators inform the team leaders and then to the line supervisor. The line supervisor writes over the breakdown sheet regarding the breakdown and the time of breakdown.
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It is the responsibility of the mechanics that they would check this sheet after every 15 to 20 minutes and attend the machines. The time is calculated and written down. This particular report is taken and data entry is done on a regular basis on the system. And after that pie charts and bar charts are developed. The use of this particular format is as follows: 1. The total idle time is evaluated. 2. The machines which face major issues and breakdowns are highlighted. 3. The basic natures of problems are noted down and further preventive measures are carried out to solve problems from occurring in the future. 4. Meetings are conducted with the mechanics for paying more focus over the special machines. 5. It gives us feedback related to all the machines and helps in decision making as to how to reduce all the problems and improve the quality of production. MAINTENANCE STORE The maintenance store is handled basically by two people. They are in charge of all the materials. They are responsible to issue the materials on time, collect the per month requirement sheet of various departments, generate the goods receiving notes, produce the indents, give purchase orders. There are two men employed for getting the materials from the buyers after the orders have been given. The software that is used for record keeping by the store of all kinds SOFTWARE NAME: Stage 6.1 SOFTWARE CREATED BY: Eco Tech RECORDS MAINTENAINED BY THE STORE 1. GRN The term GRN stands for the Goods Receiving Notes. Whenever the material is received at the industry, it is brought to the store and checked by the trained mechanics. The defected pieces are separated and the good ones are kept aside. The defected pieces are sent back to the buyers for replacement. The goods which are approved by the mechanics are taken and the goods receiving notes are prepared on the software stage. After that the goods are taken, counted and kept in their proper locations, racks and bins. The GRNs are important as it helps us to know the suppliers we are sourcing the material from, the date of purchase, the date of receiving the goods, the address, contact details of the buyers, etc. Since a lot of money is invested on the purchase of materials, it is helpful in making future estimates.
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2. BROKEN NEEDLE LOG The broken needle log is good initiative by the maintenance stores. Whenever a needle breakage happens in the sewing lines, it is the responsibility of the team leader and operator concerned to collect all the broken pieces of the needle and only after all the parts have been collected a new needle would be issued to the line. This is important as it prevents the needle’s metallic part from getting inside the garment parts. If by any chance a part is not found, the maintenance store issues a metal detector to the line. Wherever the breakage happened, 3 meter region is checked for the broken missing part. In case the metallic part if found it is taken to the store where they put in log line wise and after that a new needle is issued. In case if the metallic piece is not found even after using the metal detector, the garment pieces which are located in 3 meter area are rejected. This is done to avoid any kind of quality defect from taking place. 3. MATERIAL ISSUE SLIPS Whenever a material has to be issued the line in charge gets a material issue slip. This slip includes information related to the material needed, the quantity in boxes, or pieces. The style and size of the material. The head of department’s signatures are mandatory for issuing the materials. The date when the material was issued is recorded in stage and the quantity of material issued. It helps in evaluating the average consumption of the particular materials and accordingly the purchase orders that will have to be given the next time. How much safety stock should be kept in store is answered through these records. 4. MATERIAL REQUIREMENT SHEET This sheet is basic medium for the store to know the requirements of each and every department existing in the industry. The requirements are sent from four major sections, they are as follows: 1. 2. 3. 4.
Conveyer belt system Pressing section Utility Cutting section
The requirement for the carpentry materials are given by the workers every week as per the need. This material requirement sheets are taken and indents are prepared. All the indents prepared tell about the quantity, the style and size of materials which have been demanded by the various sections for the upcoming week. The indents are printed out and forwarded
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to the person who is in charge for giving the purchase orders of the materials. And after that the purchase orders are given away to the respective buyers. It is done manually, which often is not accurate. The problem with this method is that the requirements are not obtained on time, people miss out on few materials and the purchase orders keep on delaying due to this procedure. 5. MATERIAL RECEIPT NOTE This note is obtained from the buyer whenever the materials are received by the industry. It is done for keeping a record of the money invested, payment done to the buyer and for recording that the material has been received. There are various other records which are maintained. They are done in the software STAGE VERSION 6.1 directly.
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HR / ADMIN HR Department can be termed as the mother of any organization. It takes care of all the employee related activities, that is the recruitment, selection, induction, training, remunerations, provident fund, gratuity, ESI and so on the administration department takes care of the transportation, guest accommodation and other industrial relation activities like dealing with the labour department, pollution control board, local jurisdiction, municipal works etc. Recruitment is done by aptitude tests. It is done in the local language. While the employees are recruited in they are to produce the documents regarding the age proof, PF nomination, gratuity nomination, ESI nomination and employable certificate. The induction and the training are given to every recruited employee on the tailoring machines. They’re also certain task force training also given for the members of the task force. The administrative block of Raymond ltd was situated after the finishing floor and next to the warehouse. It has an IT server room, a conference room and various cabins for the higher officials of the factory. The Wi-Fi of the unit was maintained from this block. The administrative block also had a pantry in it with all food and wash-room facilities. The block was enthralling to eye as it had to welcome the buyers for the factory. It is a very well maintained and easily accessible to all. Even an operator can approach anybody in the administration without any problem. This makes the operators feel like a family and they do not feel discarded.
Objectives: To maintain the personnel documents. To ensure employees benefits timely To recruit new staff, employees etc. To receive and solve employees grievances
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DEPARTMENT LAYOUT
ADMIN
HUMAN RESOURCE
186
ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE
PROCESS FLOW
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IT. & MIS DEPARTMENT The company has a fully functional IT department which takes care of the MIS and the ERP of the company. The IT department is responsible for documenting all the transactions taking place in the company. There are two software “Stage” and “Proman” that are being used for the purpose. Stage is Inventory Management software while ―Proman‖ takes care of all the production related activities. Once the order is confirmed, a new account is opened in the software which generates the work order no. And after the Work Order no has been generated all the information related to that order can be traced using that number. The IT department has data entry operators who regularly enter the information into the software.
The main functions of IT dept are:
Dealing with MIS Maintenance of all hardware like computers, scanners, printers, Xerox machine, and fax machines etc. Dealing with ERP
Raymond also has their own intranet which connects all the computers in that network. There is also a facility of Raymond Wi-Fi internet which is password protected and is only accessible to the Raymond family.
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RAYMOND TRAINING INSTITUTE. In Raymond they have their own training institute which they have named as RTI (Raymond Training Institute.) This department falls under the HR section. The RTI is a new initiative of Raymond unit. Through this they try to improve the productivity of any new operator without hampering the output of the factory. In Raymond they believe to trainee the employee as the productivity expected from them, like if 70 pcs per hour are to be made by an operator then he or she is trained in such a way that in training period they does the same output. There are various stages of the RTI session, they are as follows: STAGE I In this the newly joined operators are first trained with minimum language skills like the basis English alphabets and numbers. They are also taught little bit of English sentences like saying their name, what work they are doing, how much they have made and how much they will make. In this they are also teach the hygiene and safety issues. STAGE II In the second stage the operators are given paper exercises. In this they are given papers with different patterns made on it. The operators have to stitch as per the patterns on the paper. This is done to make the operator know how to control the machine. These paper exercises are evaluated by the training in- charge and based on the performance operators were given promotions. STAGE III In this stage the operators were made to do stitch on fabric. Different patterns were made on the fabric and operators were to stitch accordingly. If the in- charge finds that any operator is well skilled then they are forwarded to the next stage.
STAGE IV In this operators are taught to handle different types of fabrics and also different types of special and automatic machines. In this stage the trainees are also made to observe the operators working in the line.
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OTHER PLANT DETAILS Building shed The dimensions of the building shed are 250m X 63m X 8.8m. The whole of shop floor is divided in three equal bays of 21 m each and the apart from the two side ends, pillars support the structure and are placed at the meeting point of two adjacent bays. These pillars are spaced at 8.04 in length. The area details are as follows: PLOT AREA
10.2 ACRES
BUILT UP AREA
205000SQ FT
SHOP FLOOR
250X 63 M
FABRICW/H
225X 76FT
17100SQFT
TRIMS
100X 70FT
7000SQ FT
CUTIING
225X 104FT
23100SQ FT
JACKET SEWING
370X 125FT
46250SQ FT
TROUSERS SEWING
290X 81FT
23490SQ FT
JACKET FINISHING
130X 102FT
13260SQ FT
TROUSERS FINISHING
116X 52FT
116X 52 SQ FT
RTI
2040SQ FT
HR
1000SQ FT
CANTEEN
13225 SQ FT
LOCKER ROOM
2160SQ FT
CRECHE & HEALTH CENTER
2025 SQ FT
FINISHED GOODS W/H
16613 SQ FT
PREW/H
2000SQ FT
BOILER ROOM ELECTRIC & VACUUM ROOM
100X 56FT
5600SQ FT 4200SQ FT
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The roofing material used is a steel alloy named Baregalvalume sheeting. A special kind of translucent sheet (GRP-skylights with FRP insulation) reduces the need of artificial lighting considerably in day time. Rafters placed at a distance of 8.04 m are designed to bear a load of 200 kg/sq. m UDL (Uniformly Distributed Load)
CANTEEN The canteen service runs under the supervision of Mr.Jagdeesh. The canteen is spread over an area of 13225 sq. feet and offers services through its two counters. One of the counters is allocated to meals offered at lunch and breakfast time while the other is a shop offering snacks items. LIBRARY The HRD offers a library service as well which majorly consists of newspaper, project/study reports, Raymond times, event albums and a few books related to different industrial acts and some novels. RECREATION ROOM The recreation room provides the employees with various recreation solutions like chess, carom, table-tennis etc. and has various sports equipments for cricket, football, volleyball, throwball, badminton etc. LOCKER ROOMS Locker rooms spread over an area of 2160 sq. feet offers locker facilities for the employees to keep their belongings and uniform safely in the campus.
HEALTH CENTRE The health centre offers the facility of a full-day doctor Ms.Shilpashree and a sister named Ms.Sushila and offers primary treatment. The health centre offers an ambulance service as well. The total area along with the crèche is 2025 sq. feet. CRECHE A crèche facility is offered for children (below 5 years) of the employees along with the facility of a primary teacher. The total area along with the health centre is 2025 sq. feet.
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KANNADA CLASSES Kannada classes are offered to the employees free of cost by the organization in the crèche area from 06.00pm to 07.30 pm. BOILER ROOM The boiler room is the source of the steam required on the production floor for various activities which need the action of steam. This area is around 5600 sq. feet (56 feet X 100 feet). ELECTRIC & VACUUM ROOM The electric room is spread over an area 4200 sq. feet (140 feet X 30 sq. feet) and consists of the panel control room, pressure control room and the vacuum centre. RAIN WATER HARVESTING There is a rain water harvesting tank in the campus which uses rain water for different purposes with/without recycling it. PARKING There is a parking shed for the employees to park their vehicles inside the campus. TOILETS There are a total of 77 toilets in the campus located in different areas. There are separate toilets for men and women. SECURITY The security service is provided by a company named "PRIVATE EYE". They operate in 3 shifts of 8 hour each
PROJECTS
ABSTRACT During the course of our apparel internship (25th May, 2015 to 29th August, 2015) at SSAL-II, we were allotted individual projects by the General Manager- Mr. Kaushalendra Narayan on the 3rd day of our internship. These projects were as per the IMEA Guidelines which the unit was following in order to be prepared for IMEA audits. Each intern was made to join an already existing team, listed below are the respective topics:
Aditya Kumar Project: Focus on customer Industry Mentor: Mr. B.K. Sharma Kumari Anamika Project: Layout & Material Handling System Industry Mentor: Mr. Raghvendra Kulkarni Shankey Sawaraj Project: Improvement in Safety, Security & Periphery Industry Mentor: Mani Vasa
This document encloses 2 parts:
Part A consists of individual IMEA projects (listed above). Since these projects were big ones, we finished up with our sub projects & did separate projects together. Part B consists of 5 projects done in a group.
PART A
PROJECT 1: Team: Focus on Customer Guidelines by IMEA Team 1. Is customer satisfaction index (CSI) measured and results conveyed to the plant? (Scientifically conducted and statically valid) 2. Procedure for lodging customer complaint (customer care centre/tool free lines, internet e-mail/ account managers etc) and system to ensure prompt and effective resolution of customer complaints. 3. Does the organization follow systematic approach to collate, analyze and summarize various sources of feedback? (Look for few cases and action taken. 4. Analyze the cases, whether the complaints are addressed for improving the process or is it merely an attempt to cover up?) 5. Do sales / marketing give regular feedback to production on the product based on the feedbacks received from market? What does this trigger? 6. Are the workers on shop floor aware of customers and their requirements? 7. Is there a culture of internal customer on the organization? 8. Is there substantial degree of focus on customer satisfaction throughout the plant? 9. Are customer ratings available with quality? 10. Is customer defined as the next person in the value chain? 11. Is there a clear understanding of the customer and their requirement, throughout the organization? 12. Degree of focus on customer satisfaction
Project: 8-D & feedback form implementation: Customer satisfaction is a term frequently used in organization. It is a measure of how products and services supplied by a company meet or surpass customer expectation. Customer satisfaction is defined as "the number of customers, or percentage of total customers, whose reported experience with a firm, its products, or its services (ratings) exceeds specified satisfaction goals. Focus on customer is a method used in industry to find out who are satisfied and who are not. It generally related to internal customer. e.g –sewing department,cutting department etc. Customers are the one who are affected by the product or by the process used to produce the product. There are two types of customer
Internal customers. Example- cutting dept., sewing dept. etc.
External customer. Example- buyer’s
Objective of study: This project aims to ensure customer satisfaction ACTIVITES IN FOA Availability of customer satisfaction rating Definition of internal and external customer Quality certification and ratings and its application to improve processes New product introduction Knowledge of customer requirements Market share
LIST OF INTERNAL CUSTOMERS.NO
CUSTOMERS
1
PATTERN
2
FABRIC STORES
3
TRIMS STORE
4
CUTTING
5
SEWING
6
FINISHING
7
WAREHOUSE
8
QUALITY
9
HR
10
IT
11
SECURITY
12
PRODUCTION
PROJECT METHODOLOGY: First analysis and take feedback from different department has been done to know which department is satisfied and which are not. The feedback will give clear picture of the condition of different department. After that details analysis has done to know what are the reasons ,why the department is not satisfied and then after permanent corrective action has been taken to improve the problem so that customer satisfaction graph increases. Steps taken under focus on customer1. Internal customer linkage table is made to know inter-relation between department t ,i.e - who is supplier and who is customer.
2. Different feedback forms is made for different made to take feedback form all the department, for finding who is satisfied and who is not.
DEPT : Pattern POOR
Sr. No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
DESCRIPTION Did you getting correct pattern on time with grading Did you getting Marking pattern on time Are you getting pattern with all parts/Notches/With allowance Are you getting information regarding bulk pattern & production pattern Timeliness of response/actions undertaken How would you rate flexibility in work How would you rate resolution of problems encountered Effectiveness & quality of information provided How would you rate way of Communication Dealt with in a professional and friendly manner FILLED BY MANNU (TROUSER LINE)
1
Customer Cutting NOT SATTISFIED SATTISFIED HIGHLY SATTISFIED DELIGHTED
2 ✓ ✓
3
4
5
✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ TOTAL POINTS= 28
Feedback form filled by cutting department to rate pattern department. 3. Detail analysis is done on the feedback taken, to find the root cause of the problem. 4. 8-D is implemented to find the root cause of the problem and give permanent corrective action so that department gets satisfied from the supplier.
OBSERVATION 1. Cutting department was not satisfied with pattern and fabric department. 2. Sewing department was not satisfied with cutting and pattern department. 3. Finishing department was not satisfied with sewing department.
Suggested solution1. To take feedback from all the internal department to know who are satisfied and DEPT : Pattern POOR
Sr. No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
DESCRIPTION Did you getting correct pattern on time with grading Did you getting Marking pattern on time Are you getting pattern with all parts/Notches/With allowance Are you getting information regarding bulk pattern & production pattern Timeliness of response/actions undertaken How would you rate flexibility in work How would you rate resolution of problems encountered Effectiveness & quality of information provided How would you rate way of Communication Dealt with in a professional and friendly manner FILLED BY MANNU (TROUSER LINE)
1
Customer Cutting NOT SATTISFIED SATTISFIED HIGHLY SATTISFIED DELIGHTED
2 ✓ ✓
3
4
5
✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ TOTAL POINTS= 28
who are not. And what are the reason of dis-satisfaction.
2. 8-D should done on all the question whose rating is 2 or below.
3. To increase visuals on floor so that, department people easily understand rather than written document because in organization not everyone is literate.
Register is to be maintained for customer complains loddging.
Implementations: 1. 2. 3. 4.
Regular feedback is taken from all the departments. 8-D format is implemented in all the departments. Visuals are increased. Register is made for customer complain loddging
Benefits: Due to implementation of the solution mention above customer satisfaction rating increases from 63% to 71 %. As in the organization internal customer is the backbone, and if internal customer is not satisfied then the industry can not run smoothly.
Project 2 Project Title: Layout & Material Handling System Guidelines by IMEA Team 1. Is material handling in store, continually reviewed to eliminate the nonvalue added activities? 2. How effective is the material handling system in store? Is it primitive & old manual type or fully automated and robotized? 3. Are the containers designed for part families and deployed throughout the plant? 4. Is material handling from receiving to shipment, continually reviewed to eliminate the non-value added activities? 5. How effectively the shop floor space is utilized? Are there any goals for space use reduction? 6. Have the tooling & equipment been designed, modified and standardized to reduce changeover & setup time? 7. Is the layout of the job shop type, disjoint with large buffers or product line type, linked with optimum buffers? Or highly linked and efficient processes with minimal buffers? 8. How effective is the material handling system? Is it primitive & old manual type or fully automated and robotized? 9. How is the travel distance between two processes? Is it extremely inefficient with abnormally large to & fro/zigzag or fully linked? 10. Are containers designed for part families and deployed throughout the plant?
Background of problem: The latter area of the trouser cutting section, which has trouser numbering & bundling area faced a lot of unwanted movement due to haphazard layout.
Objective of study: Improvement in layout of trouser numbering & bundling area.
Problem: To understand the problem in layout we must look into the process flow for the operations carried out in this area. Process flow of trouser numbering & bundling:
For plain fabric:
For fabric with checks and stripes:
In SSAL-II, trousers made of plain fabric outnumber the ones which are made out of check & stripe fabric. This means that the layout for the outnumbered garment should be taken care of more than the other one. Shown in the figure below is the placement of the tables and machines in the trouser bundling & numbering area. Here we can note:
Bundling and panel checking tables are kept by the side of numbering table. This means the operator has to keep crossing the gangway all the time. Also, after bundling is done, 1 operator has to take the bundles from the bundling table to the trolley which is kept after the relaying table. Since, for the panels with checks & stripes numbering is done twice. After numbering of these panels an operator has to take these to the relaying table and bring it back to the numbering table from the band knife m/c. Here we find that the distance covered to perform every task is more and is thus time consuming. Also there is a lot of unwanted movement.
Methodology: A scaled layout of the entire cutting section was made to review the space utilization and material handling as per the IMEA guideline. Various process flows were represented using a string diagram. This scaled string diagram visually shows the haphazard operator movement in the latter trouser cutting area. This helped in understanding the complication i.e.; unorganised placement of the tables and machines which led to haphazard material flow in the trouser numbering & bundling area.
The figure below shows the proposed layout which has turned out better than the previous one and is now implemented in the plant. Changes which were made to the previous layout:
Numbering, panel checking and bundling tables were all brought in 1 line, which has now reduced the distance between the bundling table and the loading trolley. This also has reduced the time. Relaying table and band knife machine are kept in a line nearby the numbering table. This has reduced the distance covered by the operators to finish off this task.
Actual and proposed string diagram followed by a comparison table of the distance travelled:
Benefits: Layout has been improved. This has helped eliminate the unwanted movement of the operators and wastage of time.
Project 3 Team: Improvement in Safety, Security & Periphery Guidelines by IMEA Team 1. Is policy in place for visitor gate pass and visitor tag? (Cross check if the visitors were given gate pass and visitor identification card) 2. Policy for vehicle inspection procedure and gate pass . (Check the inspection procedure and gate passes for 3-4 vehicles) 3. Effective security system at Loading / Dispatch for Finished goods. (Verify whether the security personnel is attending the loading and dispatch) 4. Are the visitor and vehicle details documented? (Verify the records with the visitors visiting the plant that day) 5. Ease of Identifying workers at any given time? 6. Can all the casual workers be identified with the present data? ( Take sample study on causal workers for their identity and records availability with security) 7. Are the security personnel trained on fire fighting and first aid? 8. Are work permits issued for equipment maintenance and construction work in the plant ? ( If work is in progress, please verify the same & also if authorization from the appropriate person is there) 9. Is an effective security system in place? Are the security personnel professional in their attitude? (Policy and Professional) 10. Is the boundary/fencing height sufficient to prevent intrusion and theft? 11. Are the materials under storage free of dirt & Leakages? 12. Is 5S implemented in the plant? Is "Place for everything and everything in its place followed? 13. How would you rate housekeeping -shop floor appearance and orderliness? 14. How do you ensure entry of hazard free and clean tankers, into the loading bay?
Project: Improvement in 5S. Background of problem:
Although the industry is a 5S certified unit still there were some areas which needed improvements. Sustainability was not there. The certificate was there but due to lack of regular audit and response, many areas lacked 5S. . Objective of study: To improve the condition of 5S in the industry. Methodology: For 5S implementation regular audit and corrective actions has been done. All the steps from seiri, seiton, seiso, seiketsu and shitsuke has been improved. For this firstly the process is broken down into 5 steps and then implementation has been done.
Seiri (sort) For this purpose, red tag area was already in place but was not maintained/ followed. There were unwanted materials on shop floor. Also the imtems in red tag area were not taken care of. After consulting line manager, production manager, general manager and 5S champions, red tag area has been improved.
Seiton (set in order) All the walkways were in place. Also place for every trolley was there. The only problem was their implementation. By regular audit, proper implementation has been done.
Seiso (shine) After regular cleaning and training of house keeper, seiso was made in place.
Seiketsu (standardize) In this step visual aid were implemented. Different coloured hangers for different lines were used make sure no hanger will shift from one line to another. Also naming of sections in lines were printed, laminated and them displayed for better visual aid.
Shitsuke (sustain) In this step several training about 5S were given to operators, security staffs and casual workers. Also weekly auid were being done to help sustain 5S.
Benefits: 5S score has improved. This can be seen in trend chart.
PART-B
PROJECT-4 Project title: To increase production of canvas spreading. Background of problem: During my period of cutting section study I realized that the manual cutting is very less productive that machine spreading. Two operators were needed at each table one on each side of the table. Also the speed of the operators were slow.
OBJECTIVE OF STUDY: To increase production of spreading section. METHODOLOGY: To increase the manual spreading productivity I got an idea. The idea what if the two plies of the fabric are spread simultaneously. The idea can not be used in shell fabric due to shade variation but can be easily applied to sections were shade variation is not happening such as canvas spreading.
WORKING OF MACHINE As shown in the picture, two clamps are used instead of one. Thus, two fabric rolls can be used simultaneously resulting in increase of production. The only point to note that is can only be applied to section were shade variation is not the case. Thus with same number of operators, productivity is increased.
BENEFITS:
Increase in production. Low cost of implementation. No special training of worker is required.
FUTURE SCOPE: This can also be applied for spreading felt and fusing as they also don’t have shade variation problem.
PROJECT-5 PROJECT TITLE: to increase production of fusing section. BACKGROUND OF PROBLEM: During my internship I found that a lot of time in fusing section is lost in searching fusing parts. The fusing parts were not kept in a systematic manner and as a result time was lost in searching. Also this resulted in loss of some parts. In some cases, due to missing of fusing parts, identical part is picked and used after trimming by operators. This leads to re-cutting of missed parts in band knife and time wastage.
Objective of study: To increase production of fusing section.
Methodology: After analyzing the problems I came to know that the ultimate problem was segregation of fusing parts. If by some means, the parts were segregated, then the time wasted in searching will not be lost. Also the problem of re-cutting will be solved. Thus for this purpose I designed a table with places for different fusing parts.
Working of table As shown in the picture above, the table is made out of wood and has boxes for placing fusing parts. After cutting of fusing parts, the parts are arranged in the boxes and then given to the fusing operators. The fusing operators then uses the parts. Benifits
Reduction in search time. Helped in 5s sustainability. Problem of re-cutting of fusing parts was solved
PROJECT-6 Project title: Jackets bypass system at similar operations. Background of problem: During the line study, I found unnecessary operators movement to deliver their pressed jackets. This was observed at lining press and touch-up operations. As operation time for lining press and touch-up is more, for that 3 machines are used in each operation. Due to Machine width the total distance covered by operator to pick-up and deliver jackets is more which leads to wastage of time either by lining press operator to deliver pressed jacket to button attach machine or by button attach machine operator to pick from lining press machine. This is shown in diagram:
Figure 4: explaining unnecessary movement of operator
Objective of study: To eliminate excess movement of operators to reduce time and fatigue. Methodology: To eliminate this waste time I designed Jacket by-pass system for Lining press and touch-up operation. The model of my by-pass system is shown below
Working of machine For the by-pass system, main conveyor passing through lining touchup and button attach is made discontinuous and stopped at the last lining touchup operation. The part of main conveyor at button attach is extended till first lining touchup operation. Also the extended part is made inclined keeping bypass at first lining touchup at higher level than at button attach. This inclination is done to run the jacket with any mechanical or muscular force.
Benefits: Due to this by-pass system now neither lining operators require to come to button attach machine operator or nor the button attach machine operators require to move to lining machine to collect jackets for button attach. In this way I have reduced over all operators’ movement.
PROJECT-7 Project title: To provide feasible solution for increasing productivity in jacket line.. Background of problem: During the line study, I found unnecessary operators movement to deliver their pressed jackets. This was observed at lining press and touch-up operations. As operation time for lining press and touch-up is more, for that 3 machines are used in each operation. Due to Machine width the total distance covered by operator to pick-up and deliver jackets is more which leads to wastage of time either by lining press operator to deliver pressed jacket to button attach machine or by button attach machine operator to pick from lining press machine. Objective of study: This project aims at developing strategies and solutions to increase productivity of the jacket. To eliminate this waste time I designed Jacket by-pass system for Lining press and touch-up operation. The model of my by-pass system is shown below
Existing condition: Production: - 350 pcs/ day (Average) Operator: - 119 Machines: - 100 Productivity: - 350/119= 2.95
Project methodology: First analysis of production activities has been done to know the activities happening in the line. This gives the clear picture of the condition of the line and what are the scope of improvement. All the operations with machine and feed used are studied and cause of low productivity is also enlightened.
Observation (Main causes of low production) Men:
Less skilled operators whose are unable to give production as per their capacity.
Absenteeism which creates unavailability of operators for particular operations Unnecessary movement, indiscipline and talkativeness of operator in the line which disturbs other operator to concentrate on their work. Lack of awareness in Team-leader, Supervisor, Line in-charge, Production technician, Industrial engineer, Maintenance personnel and Quality controller about their job responsibilities
Material:
Fabric loading issue like loading not on time, sometime more extra loading and some-time no loading, Fabric Cutting issue like wrong cutting, wrong numbering, same panel cutting, and number mismatching.
Machine:
More Machine breakdown No extra emphasis on maintenance for critical machines Less maintenance personnel for maintenance of machine and even for rectification after machine breakdown i.e. 5 persons for all the 6 jacket line.
Method:
Poor production planning before starting the production Very low technical support for the operations in the line. Less work on the root cause of any alteration in between the line due to which problems coming continuously. Less responsibility of alteration in the line where more than one operator is working because of no tracking of operator that whose alteration is more or less.
Suggested Solution Men:
Multi-skilling training which can make more skilled operators and can solve the problem of absenteeism in the line of particular operations. Firstly bottleneck operation’s operators should be trained. Each operator- 4 operations Each operation- 4 operators Floater training
Strict supervision can control more talk between operators in the line which can control rework HR control on operator for indiscipline activity Strict supervision and getting permission every time for P & FA can reduce more P & FA. Make job responsibility card and give to Team-leader, Supervisor, Line in-charge, Production technician, Industrial engineer, Maintenance personnel and Quality controller
Material:
Make plan to give requisition one day prior for getting load Make shortage slip and collect data of shortage load after fix time Check loaded fabric and trims with serial number and check shade variation before starting the production Check loading quality and material issues before starting production
Machine:
Prefer preventive maintenance according to machine breakdown data Recruitment of more maintenance staffs if possible.
Method:
Use of software such as fastreact for real time planning. Make mock- up sample for self –checking at required operation like peak making, sleeve attach, bottom press, bottom join etc. Recruit technicians if possible. Tools like root cause analysis should be used for getting the root of the cause. Prepare Control chart sheet –Per hour output of starting operation, middle operation and end point operation. Change the layout of the line wherever machine is far and returning operation is there.
Implementations:
Process standardizitation has been done.
Multiskilling of operators has been done.
Job responsibility card has been made
Traffi
c light system had been implemented to show crictical areas and to identify operators who are not up to the mark.
Material requisition slip had been made and implemented in cutting section.
Benefits: Due to this by-pass system now neither lining operators require to come to button attach machine operator or nor the button attach machine operators require to move to lining machine to collect jackets for button attach. In this way I have reduced over all operators’ movement.
PROJECT-8 Project title: warehouse location planner. Background of problem: Warehouse at SSAL-2 contains 23 racks marked A to W. each rack is further divided into 8 sections. A full rack has capacity of 400 garments and half rack has capacity of 200. Without a proper location planning, it takes a lot of time to search for specific garment. Thus there is a need of visual aid which can tell the location of a particular piece. Objective of study: visual representation of the warehouse.
Problem observed:
Operator manually allocates rack to the incoming jackets. Operator maintains logbook wherein allocated racks are written along with order no. It takes operator lots of time to search for the missing pieces. Difficult to allot rack to new orders.
Project methodology: To eliminate time wastage in searching and allocation new racks, I developed a location planner for showing which order is at which place in ware house.
Working of machine
Complete layout of the warehouse racks presented on a board with racks A – W.
C C1-50 C1-50 C1-50 C1-50
C5
C2
C6
C3
C7
C4
C8
Each rack is divided into 8 sections marked C1 - C8 and so on. Each section is further divided into 4 parts. Each part has a capacity of 50 pieces. Different buyers represented on the board through different colors. This would help to identify different location of a buyer at a single glance. Coloured cards of same size as each part in the rack are being used which are hung on the desired location. Order no and size written on the card. Cards are laminated and can be reused.
Benefits:
This would help to identify different locations of a buyer at a single glance. Any new person can easily access the orders. Beneficial during buyer audit.
