1
Chapter 1 Introduction to Leather
Chapter One
Introduction to Leather A History of Leather Since the dawn of time, leather has played a vital role in the development of civilization. In its various formats, leather and animal hides have provided for one of the most basic human needs - protection. From animal hides, man has crafted footwear, clothing, belts, containers, weapons, transportation devices, and even armor. In the early days of leather usage, unfortunately, animal skins would rot when left wet or in higher temperatures, and if they were allowed to dry or stored at lower temperatures, they would lose their ability to flex and have limited use. For this reason, attempts to produce leather that was stronger and more flexible eventually began. Whether by accident or by trial and error, man discovered methods of softening and preserving leather by treating animal skins with natural resources. Variations of this process, known as tanning, have been used to produce better quality material throughout history.
The Tanning Process While historic methods of softening and preserving leather utilize such naturally occurring materials as smoke, animal viscera, and vegetable solutions, modern day tanning and hide processing is chemically controlled throughout the United States and Europe, regardless of the type of chemicals or ingredients used in the tanning process. Tanning is the process of combining a substance called Tannin with the hide fibers, allowing the resulting leather to be dried, yet remain flexible. The chemistry of tanning is very complex, and the process was actually discovered by accident and refined through trial and error over thousands of years. There are two main types of tanning - vegetable tanning and chrome tanning. Though Vegetable Tanning is perhaps the oldest method of tanning, using tannins from organic matter such as tree bark, leaves, and nuts, it is now a specialty type of tanning. In years past, it could take up to a year for each individual hide to be processed, but modern vegetable tanning takes between one and three months. Chrome Tanning uses metal chromium rather than organic tannins and, as a result, it takes far less time. It is also less expensive to produce leather in this way. The tanning process begins when the hide is removed from the animal, as it is salted as soon as possible. It must remain salted, cool, and moist during the initial curing period, which can last up to six months. During this curing period, approximately 15% of the weight is lost as water drains from the hide. At the tannery, the hide is tumbled in a solution of hydrated lime and water to remove the hair. Next, the hide is tumbled in an acid solution of approximately 5 on the pH scale. After tanning, some leathers are tumbled in a dye bath to produce a desired color. If not, the hide is taken to a drying room, a ventilated area where the hide is stretched, tacked to panels and hung until dry. Once the hide has dried, it is run through a Skiving Machine, which trims off bumps and blemishes in an effort to achieve the maximum uniform thickness throughout the hide. The final step in the leather-making process is referred to as currying or Slicking, and it is done to create a smooth finish.
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Chapter 1 Introduction to Leather
Overview of Types of Leather There are a number of leather types, but some of the most common include tooling, skirting, latigo, lace, garment, upholstery, harness, English bridle, rawhide, chrome splits, suede splits, shearling, and exotics. Tooling is a type of leather that can be carved and may be used for carving, stamping, moulding, dyeing and oiling. Tooling will readily and evenly accept dyes and dries to a firm, long-lasting shape. This type of leather is ideal for almost any use, including footwear, strap goods such as belts and tack, briefcases, holsters, and sheaths. Skirting is ideal for saddle panels, shoe soles, and other heavy work. Skirting leather products can also be tooled and carved. Skirting moulds and forms to the seat, and readily accepts oils and dyes evenly, leading to a very uniform appearance. Often found together are Latigo and Lace leathers. Latigo is soft and supple, and lace is firm and does not stretch, which has lead to the use of both in products which require strength and flexibility. Latigo and lace can be found in such items as cinch straps, braided reins, and other laces found on a saddle. These leathers are also found in the laces of baseball gloves, tool pouches, and moccasins as well, and are even used for pet products. Garment leather is primarily used to make clothing and accessories, such as chaps, vests, handbags, and footwear. This type of leather is soft and supple, and it is available in an array of consistent colors. It may have come from the hide of any number of animals, including cows, goats, deer, and sheep. Upholstery leather is used in furniture and seat covers. This soft, supple leather is strong and durable. It is tanned in whole hides, allowing for very little waste and for use in automotive and restoration upholstery where large pieces of leather are necessary. Harness leather is used to make tack and supplies for both the equine and pet industries, including work, show, or safety harnesses. It may also be used to make military leather strap goods. Harness leather is heavy with tallows, providing exceptional weight, thickness, ease of cutting and durability. English Bridle leather is also used to make supplies for use on horses and dogs, such as leashes and harnesses, and may be used in making finer strap goods. Rawhide is a strong, firm untanned cattle hide used to cover and repair saddle trees and covered stirrups. It is also used in snow shoes, drum heads, Native American relics, and other decorative work. Shearling is a beautiful quality sheepskin which is available in a variety of thicknesses. Saddle lining, pads, and covers, as well as some garments, may be made from 3/4" shearling, while the 1/2" option may be used for holster and case linings, as well as some garments. Chrome Splits are leathers used to make chaps, aprons, and tool pouches, while Suede Splits are leathers used to make garments, chaps, moccasins, handbags, and pouches. Finally, Specialty & Exotic leathers, including kangaroo, deer skin, snake, alligator, among others, may be used to make footwear, handbags, and decorative work.
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Chapter 1 Introduction to Leather
Leather Grades Each leather hide is unique to the animal from which it came. For this reason, each individual hide has different natural scars and blemishes, in addition to its unique shape, size, and coloring. Such blemishes and scars are considered defects, and these defects are what determine the Grade of a side of leather. A Grade leather allows for 1 or 2 defects in the prime areas and 3 to 4 defects in the non-prime areas. B Grade leather allows for 3 to 4 defects in the prime areas, as well as 6" to 12" of damage or waste and some small holes in the non-prime areas of the hide. C Grade allows for more than 12" of damage or waste and color variation. Utility Grade may have up to 15-20% area of defects including cuts, blemishes and holes. Tannery Run is a standard method of selling leather which includes a combination of 20% A grade, 50% B grade, 30% C grade, and 10% utility grade. Remember that the grade of a side of leather will only have an effect on your yield and waste factor. It will not affect the quality of your leather in any way.
A Grade
Allows for 1 or 2 defects in the prime areas and 3 to 4 defects in the non-prime areas
B Grade
Allows for 3 to 4 defects in the prime areas, as well as 6" to 12" of damage or waste and some small holes in the non-prime areas
C Grade
Allows for more than 12" of damage or waste and color variation
Utility Grade TR Grade
May have up to 15-20% area of defects including cuts, blemishes and holes Combination of 20% A grade, 50% B grade, 30% C grade, and 10% utility grade
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Chapter 2 Choosing the Right Leather
Chapter Two
Choosing the Right Leather for Your Project When faced with a leathercrafting project, choosing the right hide of leather may feel overwhelming. In order to avoid wasting quality leather, there are a series of ten questions to consider before choosing a hide for your project. First, it is important to have an Ideal Finished Product in mind. Who will be using this product? What should it look like? Simply taking the time to consider the purpose of your product can aid in making the best leather decision. Next, determine the ideal Strength and Stretch Tolerance your leather product should have. If strength is necessary, a full-thickness leather, such as skirting or harness, is best. Unsplit latigo and bridle leathers are another possibility. Unsplit leathers are stronger, as the fibers are unharmed by the splitting process. A third question to consider is what Techniques you will use on the leather. Will you need to tool, stamp, curve, or carve the leather for your project? If so, a dry leather, such as skirting or bridle leather, is best. Next, consider the Ideal Finish your leather should have. If you will be tooling or stamping, you will also need to finish the leather yourself. If not, you will need to consider the types of finishes a tannery may apply in order to produce a consistent product. Will your product be used Indoors or Outdoors? Products used outdoors, where they will be exposed to potentially harsh conditions such as extreme heat or pouring rain, benefit from the use of a hot-stuffed leather, such as harness, latigo, or English bridle. If you plan to tool or stamp a dry leather, such as skirting, there are a variety of oils, dyes, and dressings to consider for protection and to prevent drying out or cracking. Another factor in choosing your leather is determining The Cost of Your Product. How much money will you charge for your product? Knowing this helps to determine how much you can afford to spend on the leather while still making a profit. Using the best possible cut and grade of leather allows you to give customers both quality and value, while you profit from the sale. Next, consider the Yield of the hide compared to how much leather you need. Knowing which cut of leather is best for your project is very important, as different cuts yield different quantities. For this reason, you must also know the Size of your product in advance, as well as the total number of individual items you wish to make, prior to choosing a hide. Similarly, it is important to determine How Much Leather will be necessary to complete your product or products. Knowing this information in advance may allow you to take advantage of quantity leather pricing, as well as reduce your overall cost and make the most possible use of each hide. Finally, it is important to know whether the product you wish to make can be Duplicated and improved upon. A customer should know exactly what to expect from you and your product, so it is vital to make them aware of what you can and cannot do. Additionally, you should ask yourself whether you wish to create a one-of-a-kind Custom product or a Mass-Produced product. If you plan to produce more than one of your product, you may find that it is much less expensive to buy larger quantities of leather. Doing so allows you to produce more of an item from each hide, as well as use any remaining pieces from a hide in later productions.
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Chapter 2 Choosing the Right Leather
An Overview of Leather Thicknesses One ounce of leather is equal to 1/64" in thickness, but hides rarely measure to the exact 1/64" throughout, as there are always slight variations in thickness. Hides run through a splitting machine are more consistent, but still not perfect. It is best to remember that the more ounces there are, the heavier the leather will be. The chart below provides basic leather conversions and the uses of each size. Ounces Irons Fractional Inches
Decimal Inches Millimeters
1 oz.
0.75
1/64"
0.016
0.41 mm
2 oz.
1.50
1/32"
0.031
0.78 mm
3 oz.
2.25
3/64"
0.047
1.19 mm
4 oz.
3.00
1/16"
0.063
1.6 mm
5 oz.
3.75
5/64"
0.078
1.98 mm
6 oz.
4.50
3/32"
0.094
2.39 mm
7 oz.
5.25
7/64"
0.109
2.78 mm
8 oz.
6.00
1/8"
0.125
3.18 mm
9 oz.
6.75
9/64"
0.141
3.58 mm
10 oz.
7.50
5/32"
0.156
3.96 mm
11 oz.
8.25
11/64"
0.172
4.37 mm
12 oz.
9.00
3/16"
0.188
4.78 mm
13 oz.
9.75
13/64"
0.203
5.17 mm
14 oz.
10.50
7/32"
0.219
5.57 mm
15 oz.
11.25
15/64"
0.234
5.95 mm
16 oz.
12
1/4"
0.250
6.36 mm
Application Linings, Shoes, Boots, Pouches, Purses, Gussets, and Garments
Purses, Shoes, Boots, Pouches, Aprons, Chaps, and Knife Sheaths
Belts, Saddlebags, Bridles, Halters, Dog Collars, Straps, Scabbards, Holsters, Sheaths, Tool Pouches, Slings Heavy Belts and Strap Goods, Gun Belts, Stirrup Straps, Cattle Halters, Heavy Horse Halters, and Leads
Safety Belts*, Harnesses, Stirrup Straps, Saddle Skirting, Soles and Heels, Gunbelts, Machine Belting Safety Harnesses*, Work Harnesses*, Saddle Skirting, Soles and Heels
* Always remember that leather is a natural material that’s not intended for use on products that carry a high liability or certification of tensile strength. On occasion, leather fibers can become weak without any visible signs of wear. Fall arrest or safety equipment should never be made with leather constructing the strength member. More consistent materials like heavy-duty webbing should be used for strength member construction.
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Chapter 3 Getting to Know a Leather Side
Chapter Three
Getting to Know a Leather Side Before you begin any leather project, it is important to understand the different parts of a side of leather and the benefits each of these parts can provide. There are four main parts in a leather side - the bend, the back, the neck and middle, and the belly. The Bend is the thickest and firmest part of a hide. At its full thickness, it is between two and four ounces thicker than the rest of the hide. It is best to use the bend in products which require minimum stretch, firmness, and durability. The fibers of the bend are thicker and more prone to cracking, so it is beneficial to temper this piece of leather in warm water before bending. The Back consists of the bend, the neck, and the middle. It is a very good quality piece of leather and is the best purchase for items that require length and durability along with very limited waste. Reins, leashes, and stirrup leathers, for example, would be crafted from back leather. Though the Neck and Middle are good quality leather, they tend to have more blemishes. The neck specifically may have more natural blemishes from the animal, such as barbed wire scratches and natural fat wrinkles. Tanners do try to smooth out wrinkles, but they may remain visible, depending on the age of the animal. The neck and middle are able to stretch without tearing. This is called tensile strength, and the middle sometimes has more of it than the bend. The middle may be used for the same types of products as the bend, including products requiring more length. The fibers of the Belly are softer and looser than those in other parts of the side. Though it is often considered the “waste” section of the side, it can be very useful in a number of ways. For example, if it is sewn to the back of another piece of leather, it provides comfort and has all the strength of the piece it is sewn to. It is often used to make liners, browbands, breast collars, and loops.
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Chapter 4 Cutting and Costing Your Leather
Chapter Four
Cutting and Costing Your Leather Cutting Hides to Achieve the Best Yield To cut belts from a double back, if there is a brand or blemish, you will first need to straight edge the bend down the middle and cut it in half with a round knife. Then, you may cut right through the brand, as the branded pieces may be used as belts for children. Additional pieces can be used for keepers, greatly minimizing your waste. If the double bend is long enough, you may be able to cut several straps along the backbone as well, further minimizing waste.
Efficiently Cutting Around Blemishes Blemishes such as scars or butcher cuts do not need to increase the amount of waste from your side of leather. You will simply need to cut around, or sometimes through, these defects in order to increase the yield from a side of leather. When cutting strap goods, for example, if the butcher cut or blemish is on the underside of the leather, you may simply turn the leather over and mark the cut on the topside. You may need to straight edge the top. To do so, lay the straight edge along the top of the hide, mark it and cut along the line with a draw gauge or round knife. Cut the straps as close to the defect as possible in order to minimize waste. Another option is to mark and cut your straight edge through the butcher cut. This method is useful if the blemish is parallel to the straps you will be cutting. Once the strap or rein is edged, the blemish will no longer be visible.
Clicking Out Leather Pieces to Best Utilize Hide After you have cut all necessary straps, you are able to click products from the bottom part of the hide, including the belly. The further down the belly you go, the softer the leather becomes, so if firmer or single-ply leather parts are necessary, it is best to click them from the top area. The center of the belly can be used for tops on double and stitched products. Softer areas, such as the pockets, are useful as liners. Leg pieces are ideal to use for a variety of small items, including coasters, key fobs, curb straps, and spur straps.
Belt Basics When using a double back to make belts, it can be cut in a variety of ways which minimize your waste. For example, you may wish to begin by using only one half of the side, cutting belts vertically to your desired length and utilizing the neck pieces as well. Then, you may cut the second half of the side horizontally for the rest of your belts. Alternatively, you may cut the first half horizontally until the second half is the desired length for your belts and then cut the second half vertically to make the rest of the belts. Finally, you may cut the entire double back vertically or horizontally.
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Chapter 4 Cutting and Costing Your Leather
Yield of Leather Straps from an Average Side You’ll want to always keep your waste to a minimum to make your items as economical as possible. For your reference, a 15% waste is the industry standard. You calculate the percentage of waste as you would any other percentage. For example, if you begin with a 30 pound hide and you manage to utilize all but 4-1/2 pounds, you have a 15% waste. Strap Width 1/4" 1/2" 3/4" 1" 1-1/4" 1-1/2" 1-3/4" 2"
Sides (based on 35" width) 138 68 44 33 26 21 18 15
Backs (based on 26" width) 102 50 33 24 19 15 13 12
Double Shoulders (based on 25" width) 98 48 31 23 18 14 12 11
Double Backs (based on 52" width) 204 100 66 48 38 30 26 24
Costing Your Finished Product When you manufacture leather products, it is very important to know your true cost. This may be difficult if you buy your leather in different units of measure. To determine your true costs, first convert all of your leather costs to square foot costs. At Weaver Leather, leather priced per piece is sold by the hide, the side, or the cut; leather that is priced per square foot is accurately measured by a machine at the tannery and the square footage of each piece is stamped on it; and leather priced per pound is weighed when it is shipped from the warehouse. Calculate the Leather Cost, remembering to include your waste factor as well. If the leather is priced by the pound, multiply the cost per pound by the average weight of the side to get the cost per side, then add in your freight and waste costs. If the leather is priced by the square foot, simply remember to add the freight and waste factor costs to get your true cost. The industry standard for a waste factor is 15%, but remember to calculate your own percentage of waste based on the number of products you manufacture. The next step is to determine the Average Size of your side of leather in square feet. The industry standard is 22 square feet per side for a heavy native (unbranded) steer side. Other cuts may vary, of course, so make sure to adjust your average for your unique piece of leather. To determine your specific number of square feet, multiply the width of the side by length of the side. Assuming your side and waste factor are average, only 85% or the leather side, or 18.7 square feet, will be useable. You are now able to determine your true cost. If your leather and freight cost is $105, for example, and your waste is average, you would divide your 18.7 square feet of usable leather into the leather cost of $105 to find your true cost of $5.61 per square feet.
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Chapter 4 Cutting and Costing Your Leather
If you make straps that are 1-1/4" wide and 72" long, your strap is 90 square inches. To convert square inches to square feet, divide the 90 square inches by 144 (12" x 12" = 144" inches in a square foot) which will give you a total of .625 square feet used. At $5.61 per square foot, you will find that your strap has cost you $3.51 to make. Finally, add the costs of all the hardware, thread, oils, and labor to get the total cost of your item.
Five Steps to Leather Costing Step 1: Calculate the Leather Cost................ $100 Step 2: Add Freight Cost................................ $5 Step 3: Subtotal................................................ $105 Step 4: Average Feet Per Side......................... 8.7 Usable Square Feet Step 5: True Cost............................................. $5.61 per Square Foot
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Chapter 5 Overview of Types of Projects
Chapter Five
Overview of Types of Projects There are a number of different products a person can create using leather, including everything from tack and strap goods to personal accessories, holsters, and even apparel. It is useful to make a permanent pattern, especially if you wish to produce a number of the same item. There are an infinite number of items a person might create using leather. Jackets, pants, and vests are common articles of clothing which can be crafted using leather, and moccasins, belts, and handbags are among some of the most common leather accessories. One might even have need of a pair of leather chaps or a leather hat. In addition to clothing and accessories, many items used in everyday life can be made from leather, including wallets, checkbook covers, and even book jackets. Key fobs are relatively easy items to make, especially when using die cuts, so they are able to be produced in larger quantities. Gun holsters, knife sheaths, rifle scabbards, tool holders, and luggage may also be made from leather. Tack and other strap goods are almost exclusively made from leather. Saddles, bridles, halters, leads, and harnesses are among the most common tack used in the equine, livestock, and even pet industries.
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Chapter 6 Overview of Tools
Chapter Six
Overview of Tools There are an infinite number of tools available for working with leather. Some of the most basic leatherworking tools include the round knife, the draw gauge, hammers and mallets, shears and scissors, edgers, creasers, slickers, awls, the cutting block, punches, and stamping tools. The Cutting Block is, of course, the surface upon which leather is cut. On the cutting block, one uses a Round Knife, or head knife, to cut leather. The round knife consists of a rounded blade attached to a handle, and it is pushed through a side of leather in order to make large cuts. Shears and Scissors can also be used to cut the leather, as well as other difficult materials. The Awl is another pointed instrument used for piercing small holes into the leather. The Draw Gauge is used to cut straps, usually of 4" wide or less. Hone the blade of the draw gauge on the side nearest the guide, as this will help to pull the blade out into the material and also push the strap against the guide. It is very important to keep the draw gauge sharpened in order to limit leather waste. The Hammer can be used, of course, to drive tacks and other attachments into the leather. The Mallet is used with some Punches to drive holes into the leather, as well as with Stamping Tools, which drive designs, letters, and images into the leather. It may also be used anywhere that a cushioned blow to the leather is necessary. In addition to hand tools, there are several machines which can aid in leathercrafting. A Slicker, which is made from dense, close grained wood, is used to smooth the edges of leather strap goods, giving them a hand-rubbed look. An Edge Painter, as the name implies, is designed to further assist in finishing the edges of a leather item by painting them with special edge paint. A Creaser is yet another machine designed to provide a more finished look by adding creases along the edges of leather straps.
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Chapter 7 Basics of Working with Leather
Chapter Seven
Basics of Working with Leather Pattern Making Before you begin working with or even cutting your side of leather, make a Permanent Pattern. It is best to do so using heavy paper or, for some items, 1/8" fiberboard. There are varying ways to make different types of patterns, so this process is largely based on your specific product and what it requires. For some patterns, such as those for holsters, simply tracing the item you wish to contain is an excellent starting point. For any pattern, basic geometry and precise measurements are essential. A Compass should be used for spacing, as well as creating square and round corners in a pattern. Additionally, using Simple Curves can help to simplify sewing. Allow extra space along all edges and seams, and if there are identical halves in your pattern, be certain to cut them exactly alike. If you are unsure about where to begin with a pattern for something, it can be immensely educational for you to find an old version of the item you wish to make and take it apart.
Cutting In leathercrafting, understanding how best to cut a side for your specific project is essential in avoiding waste and keeping your costs down. Before you begin, know the measurements of your products and take them all into account as you plan cuts in order to maximize yield. Remember that each hide is different and will require a different plan. Finally, before you cut your side of leather, remember to check both the grain and the flesh sides of the leather thoroughly, as nothing is more wasteful than catching a defect after the hide has been cut. It is always important, whether you’re cutting straps for belts, reins, or other miscellaneous projects, to cut straps that are uniform, straight and precise. This can be done with a draw gauge or a strap cutter. The draw gauge is used to cut straps by hand, but if you wish to produce large quantities of a strap, a Strap Cutter is essential. Experts suggest that, when using a strap cutter, it is best to keep the first knife as close to the edge of the leather as possible without falling off in order to minimize waste. In addition to the draw gauge and strap cutting, one may choose to Die Cut products. Die cutting is useful if you need to cut leather in a pattern of shapes rather than in straight straps. It is quick, efficient, and precise, and it minimizes waste because the die and patterns can be turned and nested into each other.
Stitching Some leathercrafting projects may be Hand-Stitched, and in such cases, the angle of the hole you cut into the leather for the purpose of stitching has an effect on the appearance of the stitching. There are several sewing machines commercially available to stitch heavy leather work. With some machines, it may be critical that the Needle Stroke and Stitch Length be adjusted. It is always important to match your Needle Size and Thread Size, as your finished product will have a much better appearance and you’ll have less frayed thread, thread breakage and skipped stitches.
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Chapter 7 Basics of Working with Leather
Additionally, the tightness of the stitch will make your product stronger and longer-lasting. Using a needle that is too big in thin materials will cause tension issues, while using a needle that is too small in heavy material can cause needle breakage and result in machine problems.
Tacking Hand Tacks are a clinching nail, meaning that when the point meets the iron, it begins to curl or clinch back into the leather, becoming tighter and tighter with each blow from a hammer. Hand tacks are useful if you are making a keeper for part of a harness or saddle. Even a belt keeper can benefit from tacks. Hand tacks can be clinched against a forming iron if a keeper is being installed behind a buckle.
Lacing Leather may be joined together through the process of Lacing. To lace leather, use a spring punch or a drive punch to make evenly-spaced holes in the leather. There are different measurements for each individual item to be laced. Holes used to lace stirrup covers, for example, are punched approximately 5/8" apart and 5/8" away from the edge of the cover using a #6 spring punch. The laces themselves for stirrup covers are approximately 4" long and 3/8" wide. Regardless of the item, once the holes have been punched and the laces cut to size, you may thread the leather laces through the holes, binding the leather securely.
Braiding There are a number of ways to Braid leather, but traditional steps to braid anything involve intertwining three strands of leather. First, the left strand is crossed over the center strand, allowing it to become the center strand. Next, the right strand is crossed over this new center strand, allowing it to become the center strand. This process of moving the left and right strands over the center strand continues until the braid is a desired length or you reach the end.
Gluing Leather can sometimes be Glued together, rather than sewn to make a continous strap. To do so, first feather the ends of the two leather pieces you wish to connect using a broad point or round knife. Apply a light but even coat of common contact cement to both ends of leather. Allow them to dry until they are tacky and then press them together. It is necessary to avoid using a lot of the contact cement, as the excess will squeeze out of the spliced leather and make the area around it difficult to color because dyes cannot penetrate the layer of cement. Contact cement can usually be found at saddlery suppliers, shoe distributers, and craft stores.
Riveting Craft Rivets, sometimes called speedy rivets or jiffy rivets, are rather expensive, but very easy to use. Copper rivets are the most expensive rivets by far, but the least expensive and perhaps most widely used is the Tubular Rivet. It can be set with a handheld punch and a hammer just as easily as it can be loaded into an automatic setting machine for mass production. Most riveting can be done using 3/8" or 7/16" lengths. Available from 4/16" to 10/16", tubular rivets can be set with a steel cap for fancy appearance, though this increases the cost if a lot of rivets must be used.
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Chapter 8 Advanced Techniques and Finishing Touches
Chapter Eight
Advanced Techniques and Finishing Touches Carving The process of carving is not particularly difficult, and it is only limited by your imagination and creativity. In order to carve leather effectively, however, one must first wet it. To do this, leather crafters might use a spray bottle full of water to mist the leather or they might go through a process known as Casing. More than simply wetting the leather, casing may be one of the most important steps in preparing leather to be tooled, as it is done to maintain an even moisture saturation that is ideal for tooling. Once the leather is sufficiently moistened, and left until surface is dry to the touch, you will be able to trace the pattern onto it using a stylus and then cut into the leather along the lines using a swivel knife. Go over the lines again with an edging tool, and then use stamps to create depth and texture. You will likely need to go over everything a second time with the swivel knife, and then you are ready to begin work on the background. Do so carefully, so as to stay inside of the lines you’ve drawn. After finishing the carving, you will need to allow the leather to dry out prior to stretching or assembling it so as not to mar the images you have created. To keep leather from stretching too much when carving, you can apply tape to the backside of the leather.
Tooling The Swivel Knife is the ideal tool for creating designs in a piece of leather. Most floral designs are fairly basic, especially the squash blossom, which is perhaps the most common of all. It is made from three basic parts, including the center of the flower, a central main petal, and two side petals. You may find it preferable to push your swivel knife when creating flowers, rather than pull it. To create the stems, it is best to keep them as close to one another as possible without the two running into one another. Leaves are also rather easy to create, as is the oak leaf acorn design. Lines are best used boldly and simply. Too much detail will ruin the effect of a design rather than enhance it.
Stamping Stamping is another method of creating or enhancing leather designs. There are an infinite number of stamps available, including decorative cut stamps and backgrounders, as well as letters, numbers, and symbols. Decorative Stamps were designed to assist the leather worker who has trouble maneuvering a swivel knife. The curved tools aid in cutting circles and scrolls, while the straight tool may be used for both curved and straight lines. Backgrounders are used to depress background areas in a design, giving it depth. These tools are held upright and struck firmly with a mallet in order to create the effect. Some of the more prominent backgrounders include the stippler, the bar grounder, the seed, the half-seed, and the matting styles. The stippler is used to create the effect of foliage or shadow. The bar grounder is typically used in smaller spaces, and the impressions should not overlap. The seed and half-seed are useful in larger background areas. The matting style backgrounders may be used to create many different effects, such as a basket weave, forest depths, and other general backgrounds.
Chapter 8 Advanced Techniques and Finishing Touches
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Edging and Edge Painting Edging and edge painting can be done by hand or with a machine. Typical Edgers with angled tips are perfect for edging that is both clean and precise. French Edgers are available to aid in gauging, channeling, and skiving edges for saddle work and trimming. Leather Slickers are generally used to smooth the edges of leather for a professional look. If you want to smooth the edges of a larger quantity of items, you may want to consider a Power Edge Slicker, a machine that smoothes the edges of your strap goods to a hand-rubbed finish quickly and efficiently. Edges may be painted by hand or with the help of a non-motorized or motorized piece of equipment. Again, your best choice will generally be dependent on the volume of work you plan on accomplishing.
Creasing Leather Edges Like edging, Creasing is yet another possible way to finish an edge. There are machines to perform this job on leather strap goods in a number of widths and thicknesses. The three basic creases available are the flat single edge, which is the most basic crease, as well as the flat double edge, which is reminiscent of the creasers of the past, and the domed double edge, which is ideal for belts and tack. Double edges allow for sewing inside of one crease with an additional crease showing.
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Chapter 9 Adding Finishes to Your Project
Chapter Nine
Adding Finishes to Your Project Coloring and Dyeing Finishing your leather is vitally important, as it can make or break the end result of your product. There are several basic colors to consider for hand tooled leather, including natural, light tan, oil finish, dark brown, black, or antique finish. There are assorted felt tipped markers available that easily produce subdued colors. Brighter colors may be added after dying or by hand-painting or airbrushing enamels. Backgrounds and highlights are also done by hand or with an airbrush. Before applying a color to your project, test it on a few samples of leather that are similar to that of your project. It is important to realize that no two pieces of leather are the same, so there will certainly be differences and variations of color, even when using the same products or colors. Dying large spaces requires a large amount of dye, so be certain to have enough on hand to cover the entire area. Since dyes of the same color may vary, combine more than one bottle to complete a large project, as this will allow for a consistent color throughout. To spread the dye over a larger area, one might use a dauber, a sprayer, or a brush. When using a Dauber, begin in the upper left corner of your project. Moving the dauber in a circular motion, move it quickly along the leather, allowing your strokes to overlap. It is important to fill a Sprayer with an adequate amount of dye prior to use. To apply an even coat, maintain the same distance between the sprayer and the item throughout the process, and consider propping the item up against a wall. Begin spraying the project on one side and move the sprayer back and forth as you move downward on the item. When applying color with a Flat Brush, use either horizontal or diagonal strokes. With a Round Brush, move the color around in a circular motion, allowing each stroke to overlap the last. For any of these methods, it will likely be necessary to both buff excess dye from the surface of the leather and also apply subsequent coatings of the color or dye in order to evenly and adequately cover your product.
Antiquing Base coat Antiquing gives your product a rich and multi-toned finish, and Fiebing’s products are the choice of many professionals. To achieve this finish, begin by spraying an even overall base coating of any Fiebing’s leather dye onto your product. If preferred, you may apply shading to further enhance or emphasize your design. Once your product has dried completely, buff the surface to remove any remaining pigment from the surface, then apply a coat of Fiebing’s Antique Finish. Before the Antique Finish dries, remove any excess pigments or finish and buff the leather. Once the dye is completely dry, you may apply a finish to your product.
Dressings and Top Finishes Sealing and protecting your product is an important part of leathercrafting, so choosing the right finish and utilizing the right techniques are the keys to consistent and successful end products. Consistent quality is the key to customer satisfaction and repeat business. Before you apply a top finish to your product, prepare your workspace. It may be beneficial to pour the finish out of its bottle and into an extra dish for easier access with your applicators. Clear away all unnecessary
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Chapter 9 Adding Finishes to Your Project
supplies, especially those which might contain residual finishes from other projects, so as not to risk damaging the current project. Have all applicators, including brushes and sponges, nearby for easier access. Keep paper towels, a lined trash can, and a small dish of water readily available for cleaning and removing excess finish. You will likely need to practice with the finish on a scrap piece of leather in order to avoid ruining or damaging your product with too much or too little finish. Always read the directions for each finish prior to starting a project. Begin by dipping the end of the applicator – usually a sponge – into the finish, starting at the top and working your way downward. Apply the finish quickly and freely, making certain to work it into tiny areas as well as larger ones. If the finish you are using contains wax, take care not to allow wax to build up in the tooling and carving. You may dip the applicator into the finish as often as necessary, but be certain to spread the finish evenly.
Leather Conditioners and Protectants There are many options to condition and protect leather once your project has been completed. Oils may be used to add or replace oils lost during the leathercrafting process or simply lost with time, use, and weathering. It is best to apply oils to your leather sparingly, allowing them to set, before you begin to apply subsequent coats. Conditioners were developed to replace oils and waxes lost over time through excessive use and weathering. Soaps are available to clean leather when necessary, as keeping your leather products clean will prolong their lives and restore their beauty.
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Chapter 10 Your Level of Involvement
Chapter Ten
Your Level of Involvement The Personal Benefits of Leathercrafting Though a great deal of information is available for businessmen, perhaps your interest in leathercrafting is that of a hobbyist and nothing more. There is nothing wrong with that. In fact, working with leather is an excellent way to develop certain skills, such as patience and attention to detail. Tooling a pattern, especially on a smaller scale, may help to develop dexterity and fine motor skills. Drawing patterns or fashioning your own individual tools can inspire your creativity and develop basic problem-solving skills. Share your interest in leathercrafting with others. Perhaps there is a local youth center or 4-H club where your leathercrafting experience and knowledge could inspire or even benefit others. Leathercrafting of any sort is an excellent way to challenge yourself, especially if you attempt a different project each time. What begins as a simple craft project may one day become a unique handmade gift or conversation piece. There is no limit to the possibilities of leathercrafting, so let your imagination run wild.
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Sources
Sources Guide to Leather. Weaver Leather LLC, Film. 5 Aug 2013. Burkholder, Allen. “Proper Needle and Thread Combinations.” Threads ‘N Stitches. 12.4 n. page. Web. 5 Aug. 2013.. Laier, Kay, and Tony Laier. “Leather Care.” Fantastic Finishes: Coloring and Finishing Leather the Fiebing Way. 2008: 19. Print. Laier, Kay, and Tony Laier. “Leather Dyes: Alcohol, Oil and Water Based.” Fantastic Finishes: Coloring and Finishing Leather the Fiebing Way. 2008: 2. Print. Laier, Kay, and Tony Laier. “Special Effects: Base Coat Antiquing.” Fantastic Finishes: Coloring and Finishing Leather the Fiebing Way. 2008: 10. Print. Laier, Kay, and Tony Laier. “Top Finishes.” Fantastic Finishes: Coloring and Finishing Leather the Fiebing Way. 2008: 14. Print. “Leather Shopper.” 2013 Weaver Leather Wholesale Supply Catalog. 2013: 16-19. Print. “Machine, Needle, and Thread Combinations.” 2013 Weaver Leather Wholesale Supply Catalog. 2013: 292-293. Print. “More Sewing Tips.” Threads ‘N Stitches. 12.4 n. page. Print. . Park, Bob. “Casing Leather.” Leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal. Mar/Apr 2012: 58-59. Print. Sherer, Dick. “Lace-Covered Stirrups.” Leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal. Mar/Apr 2012: 41-44. Print. Simonds, John C. The Leather Crafter’s Bible. Revised. Columbiana: Sitler the Printer, 2006. 1-142. Print. Stohlman, Al. “Craftool Tech Tip No. 5: Backgrounders.” Leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal. Mar/Apr 2010: 56-57. Print. Stohlman, Al. “Craftool Tech Tip No. 17: Decorative Cut Stamps.” Leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal. Mar/Apr 2012: 56-57. Print. Stutzman, Myron. “The Right Finish Makes All The Difference in Your Finished Product.” Threads ‘N Stitches. 12.1 n. page. Web. 5 Aug. 2013.. Weaver, Jim. “Cutting Hides for Minimum Waste.” Threads ‘N Stitches. 12.3 n. page. Web. 5 Aug. 2013..
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Weaver, Paul. “The Leather Corner.” Threads ‘N Stitches. 11.1 n. page. Web. 5 Aug. 2013. . Weaver, Paul. “The Leather Corner.” Threads ‘N Stitches. 12.2 n. page. Web. 5 Aug. 2013.. Weaver, Paul. “The Marketing Crockpot.” Threads ‘N Stitches. 12.1 n. page. Web. 5 Aug. 2013. . Weaver, Paul. “The Marketing Crockpot.” Threads ‘N Stitches. 12.2 n. page. Web. 5 Aug. 2013. . Weaver, Paul. “The Marketing Crockpot.” Threads ‘N Stitches. 12.3 n. page. Web. 5 Aug. 2013. . Weaver, Paul. “The Marketing Crockpot.” Threads ‘N Stitches. 12.4 n. page. Web. 5 Aug. 2013. . Weaver, Paul. “The Marketing Crockpot.” Threads ‘N Stitches. 13.1 n. page. Web. 5 Aug. 2013. . Yoder, Lester. “Swivel Knife Finesse.” Leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal. Mar/Apr 2012: 79. Print.
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