T H E B E S T o f t h e PA S T R Y C O M M U N I T Y
Issue 2, AUGUST 2005
PASTICCERIA INTERNAZIONALE For Chocolate Lovers
THURIES MAGAZINE Chocolate: Step by Step
FOOD TRADE REVIEW
Tart Ta rt Manufacturing with Pidy Gourmet
PASTRY ART & DESIGN Manfred Schmidhuber
CHEFS EXPRESS Lucky Tomatoes
PASTRY’S BEST Chocolate is not just chocolate Recipes by Bellouet & Perruchon Pastry Chef Profiles with Pierre St. Pierre and Bill Foltz
Décors More than 100 products ready and easy to use for all your creations
“Façonnables” 40 ch choco ocola late te sh shel ells ls an and d cro croca cant nt sh shel ells ls easy to fill and to use
Covering chocolates In blocs and “Minigrammes” (drops of ¼ g) High Cocoa Contents “1ers Crus de Plantation”
Pralinés and more Old-fashioned pralinés, 60% fruits Pralinés, Pure Piemont Gianduja, cocoa nibs, cocoa butter,... butter,...
18 ISSUE 2/AUGUST 2005
magazine excerpts 9
Pasticceria Internazio Internazionale nale For Chocolate Lovers Lovers
17
9
Thuriès Magazine Chocolate: Step by Step
20
Pastry Art & Design Manfred Schmidhuber
22
Food Trade Review Tart Ta rt Manufacturing with Pidy Gourmet
24
Chefs Express Lucky To Tomatoes matoes
14
20
pastry’s best features 7
Chocolate is not just Chocolate by Ellane Culhane
13
Pastry Chef Profile: Pierre St. Pierre
14
Recipes by Joël Bellouet and Jean-Michel Perruchon
16
Pastry Chef Profile: Bill Foltz
28
Pastry Hotline with Valrhona’s Frédéric Bau
30
Calendar of Events
17 28
Our Cover
These magnificent chocolate bonbons come to us from MOF Chocolatier Pascal Brunstein, whose creativity and innovation is at the heart of PCB Création, a manufacturer of chocolate transfers, molds and decors in the Alsace region of France. Go to www.pcb-creation.fr for details and recipes.
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Editor’s Letter Hey, You’re back! You’ve opened up to the second issue of Pastry’s Pastry’s Best Magazine. Thank you. The response to our inaugural issue was overwhelming! overwhelming! It seems the concept of of amassing the best content from different global publications has stricken a cord in the pastry community. community. We’ll try to keep it up! In this issue, we are focusing on chocolate and the growth of this staple in all of our shops. The evolution in the appreciation and development development of interesting chocolates chocolates has hit an all-time high in our country and abroad. Just take the growth growth of chocolate museums (listed on page 7) and the unlimited of varietals and origin chocolates available in today’s marketplace, and you can appreciate the all-consuming enthusiasm for cocoa. Our contributors in this issue are: • THURIES MAGAZINE MAGAZINE from France is a monthly magazine dedicated to the high end culinary professional. professional . Edited by Yves Thuriè Thuriès, s, MOF MOF.. • PASTICCERIA INTERNAZIONALE from Italy is also a monthly that periodically offers an international version version in English. Edited by Livia Chiriotti. • PASTRY ART ART & DESIGN from the United States is a bi-monthly magazine published by the creators of Chocolatier magazine. magazine. Edited by Mark Kammerer. Kammerer. • FOOD TRADE REVIEW is a British British publication that covers covers all of of the happenings in the overall culinary industry industry.. • CHEFS EXPRESS from the United States States is a quarterly corporate magazine published by the Chef’s Warehouse. Edited by Sean Palmer. Our contributing writers for this issue come from Seattle, with Ellane Culhane teaching us about chocolate, from Paris, Paris, recipes from MOFs Joël Bellouet and Jean-Michel Perruchon, and from London, Kelli Colaco reports reports on Valrhona’s Valrhona’s Frédéric Bau. And by popular demand, there are enough recipes to write your menus until the next issue comes out! We are especially thankful for the food distributors and manufacturers who are handing out this magazine to their customers. customers. Please feel free to send us your feedback so that we we can continuously improve PASTRY’S BEST MAGAZINE in ways that surpass your expectations. Enjoy!
David Kee Publisher
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Publisher Graphics Printing Contributing Writers Pastry Advisors
David Kee Outreach Graphics Print Source Kim Rothrock Paul Edward Ellane Culhane En-Ming Hsu Chris Northmore
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[email protected] In collaboration with www.pastrynet.com © Pastry’s Best Magazine 2005 Pastry’s Best Magazine is published quarterly by Pastry’s Best, LLC. All contents are copyright copyright 2005, Pastry’s Pastry’s Best Magazine. Magazine. All rights reserved. reserved. No portion of of this issue may be copied, copied, scanned, or reproduced in any manner without prior written consent from the the Publisher. Publisher. Unauthorized users will will be billed appropriately for such such use. This is a non-subscription non-subscription magazine. Contact your local distributor for for a copy. copy.
online Join the talk talk with pastr pastry y professionprofessionals from around the world in our multiple forums from tech help to gossip. Link up with some of the best sites site s on the web that relate specifically to pastry pastr y professionals. Navigate our exclusive collection of recipes courtesy some of the best pastry pastr y chefs in the world world.. Check out the calendar of events that relate to the professional pastry world. Peruse our choice selection of professional classes and culinary tours available to the pastry community.
Distributor List
Atlanta - European Imports (404-767-7655) Chicago - European Imports (773-227-0600) Detroit - Chef Source (734-480-2030) Las Vegas - Las Vegas Gourmet (702-261-0020) Los Angeles - Chefs Warehouse (323-581-7999) Miami - Chef Gourmet (305-722-0250) Minneapolis - Mirabella Foods (763-571-2780) New Orleans - Koerner Company (800-333-1913 ) New York - Dairyland (718-842-8700)
Harry Wils (201-770-1180) Eurosource Gourmet (973-857-6000) Orlando - Culinary Source (407-522-9099) Philadelphia - BK Enterprises (215-724-4040) Phoenix - European Imports (623-937-4100) Portland - Peterson Company (253-735-0313) San Francisco - Chefs Warehouse (510-627-0093) Seattle - Peterson Company (253-735-0313) Washington Wash ington D.C. - Chefs Warehouse (866-381-7981)
PASTRY’S ONLINE COMMUNITY
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Chocolate Chocolate by Ellane Culhane, Peterson Company, contributing writer.
“Chocolate is chocolate”, one might say say,, but recently chocolate has become the new focus of the “foodies” of the world. While chocolate is one of the world’s oldest culinary luxuries, exciting new trends are changing our view of this tradition. Originally the cocoa tree, Theobroma cacao linnea, came from Central America, where it was first cultivated by the Mayan people. From the time the Spaniards brought the treat to Europe, in 1528, the taste for chocolate has spread throughout the world. Today, three varieties of cacao are grown around the planet within 20 degrees North and South of the equator. Criollo, the most delicately flavored, Forestero, with high yield and robust flavor and their hybrid, Trinitario, Trinitario, similar in aroma to the Criollo, and high in fat. When ripe, the cacao pods are hand picked and the beans are fermented and dried at the harvest site, after which they are sent to a manufacturer. The manufacturer roasts the beans, cracks them into cocoa nibs or grue, crushes the nibs into a paste, and extracts the cocoa butter to leave cocoa liquor. After adding sugar and milk powder for white and milk couvertures, cocoa butter is added – for couvertures, more than was originally in the press – and the product is conched (conching is a mechanical sort of kneeding which homogenizes the chocolate into a smooth, creamy liquid). Finally the chocolate, as we know it, is set into block or coin shapes and is ready for use. Until recently, the different types of beans harvested from all over the world were processed and blended to make
6
is not j ju ust
chocolate for baking and confectionary use with the goal of achieving a certain uniformity. Different lines of chocolate would have a unique flavor profile, but this would be the same year to year and all would be blends of cacao beans, with the primary being Forestero. Commodity chocolate is still produced in this way, with the advantage of uniformity of flavor and texture: both the chocolatier and the consumer can know what to expect. Recently, in addition to these old favorites, chocolate manufacturers are producing origin specific couvertures whose characteristics reveal the uniqueness of climate and cultivation in certain regions. Similar to coffee, which has become more individualized in both bean and roast style, chocolate is now available with more choices of flavor and style. In the way that not all coffee is Folgers, not all chocolate is Hershey’s! Greater care is placed on processing these special couvertures, from carefully choosing the beans to a higher quality processing and longer conching. For the true chocolate aficionado, these couvertures are delightful in texture and taste that vary according to the origin and style of each one. A simple chocolate tasting will reveal the uniqueness that each chocolate has to offer. offer. The pastry chef and a nd chocolatier can also take advantage of these couvertures in creating recipes that highlight the features of a certain origin, or use them to blend and create a unique product. Origin chocolate is showing showing up more and more in the press and in cookbooks, and as is the case with coffee, the consumer is anxious to experience the spectrum of flavors available. Where chocolate has always been a luxury item, Origin chocolate is the next step for the chocolate lover. Highlight a chocolate tasting tray or an Origin couverture dessert on your menu or in your case and join the growi n g trend.
The finished dark chocolate contains from 16% to 35% cocoa powder, 15% to 50% sugar and 31% to 45% cocoa butter. The finer couvertures have added cocoa butter, so that the product contains more than was originally present in the in the bean. Cocoa butter has a crystalline structure, which is what gives chocolate the familiar shine and snap. It is polymorphic which means it can crystallize in more than one form. Tempering is the process of working the cocoa butter in the chocolate to the beta form that is stable and shiny shiny. Cocoa butter has a melting point ne ar our body temperature, of about 95 degrees which means that it really does melt in your mouth. So you can see the importance importance of cocoa butter in the chocolate experience!
Featuring Chocolate Museums There are many museums worldwide dedicated only to chocolate. Most are found in Europe, Europe, so start planning your trip... Here’s a list:
Hershey Museum, Hershey, Pennsylvania
www.hersheymuseum.com Imhoff Stollwerck Museum, Cologne, Germany
www.schokoladenmuseum.de
Heindl Schokowelt Shokolademuseum, Vienna, Austria
www.heindl.co.at
Museum Chocolat Alprose, Caslano, Switzerland
Tel. 41. 091 611 88 88
Musée du Cacao et du Chocolat, Brussels, Belgium
www.mucc.be Choco-Story Museum, Brugges, Belgium
www.choco-story.be Museo de la Xocolata, Barcelona, Spain
As with other fats, cocoa butter is composed of different fatty acids. It has about 60% saturated fats, 35% monounsaturated fats and 3% polyunsaturated polyunsaturated fats. Where saturated fats are usually associated with cholesterol, over forty years of research has shown that cocoa butter consumption does not raise blood cholesterol! Until recently we could count on most European chocolate to be made with pure cocoa butter. butter. But after a several years’ fight The European Union decided to allow up to 5% of alternative vegetable fat to products labeled “chocolate” “chocolate”.. The argument in favor of added fats, led by English manufacturers, notably Cadbury, Cadbury, is based on the increased stability and reduced costs of other vegetable vegetable fats. The EU authorized added fats; Cocoa Butter Equivalents or CBEs, include palm oil, illipe fat and shea butter. butter. These fats have higher melting points than cocoa butter, which helps keep the chocolate stable in hot climates. The CBEs are also up to five times less expensive than cocoa butter. With a chocolate that contains 5% of CBE, it means up to 16% of the cocoa butter has been replaced.
www.museoxocolata.com
Cadbury World, Birmingham, England
www.cadburyworld.co.uk
Atelier Musée du Chocolat, Biarritz, France
Tel. 33.5.59.24.50.50
Museo Storico della Perugina, Perugina, Italy
Tel. 75-52.76.635 Museo del Cioccolato Antica Norba, Norma, Italy
www.anticanorba.com Broc Chocolate Museum (Cailler-Nestle), Broc, Switzerland
Tel. 41.26.921.51.51 Prawer Chocolate Museum, Gramado, Brazil
www.prawer.com.br
Ishiya Chocolate Museum, Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan
www.shiroikoibito.ishiya.co.jp
Going forward we have to read labels as many of the leading chocolate manufacturers in Europe begin to offer products made with CBEs. Will our customers notice the difference? For some pastry chefs and chocolatiers, the principle of adding CBEs is the same as adding sugar or water to to wine. Are we compromising quality for cost? cost? Is chocolate made with pure cocoa butter worth the premium?
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we’re chocolate Master importer of chocolate couvertures, cups and decorations, fruit fillings, glazes and sugars, cocoa butters and transfer sheets, nuts and tart shells.
770-887-0201 • www www.in2food.com .in2food.com
For chocolate lovers Three recipes suggested by the Italian professional magazine “Pasticceria Internazionale”, dedicated to chocolate and signed by two Italian pastry chefs knowing how to mix tradition with new trends.
Chocolate and Chilli Pepper Infusion dark chocolate 55% rice starch potato flour dark chocolate powder sugar chilli pepper powder milk cream
g g g g g g g g
50 50 50 200 70 1 500 135
Blend the ingredients in the cutter, with the exception of the milk. Then add the mixture to the hot milk at about 75°C and bring to boil. Using an immersion whisk bring the infusion to a smooth consistency, which should be slightly dense but able to pass through the straw, which will be placed in the glass. Decorate with dried oranges and serve hot. Roberto Rinaldini Rimini Photo by Elisabetta Acquaviva
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Baloon For n. 4 cakes, half sphere cm 16 Hazelnut praliné light cream Description Start to prepare the filling in 14 cm diameter and, 3 cm tall rings. milk Put the dried fruits amaretto base, fill up to the top with light hazelsugar nut cream. Put it in the blast chiller and keep it aside. egg yolk Assemble the cake in 16 cm diameter half spheres molds. Prepare gelatin 160 Bloom the Cognac Bavarian cream and spread evenly in the mold; place hazelnut praliné in the frozen filling, level up, press up and freeze up until serving. hazelnut paste Remove from the mold and spray with white sprinkle. cream 35% Garnish with white chocolate and hazelnut decorations.
375 90 24 0 10 36 0 120 900
Cook à la rose the milk with the sugar and the yolks; add the softened gelatin, the praliné and the hazelnut paste. Sift it all; let it cool and lighten with the whipped cream.
Dried fruit soft amaretto base
hazelnut powder almond powder icing sugar egg white egg white sugar
g g g g g g g
g g g g g g
1 20 80 2 00 120 120 50
White chocolate and Cognac Bavarian cream
milk g 450 egg yolk g 18 0 white chocolate 30% g 2 25 gelatin 160 Bloom g 20 Sift well the powders with the icing sugar, mix with the first part of Cognac g 1 20 the egg whites and let it rest for a short while. Whip firmly the recream 35% g 1 , 400 maining egg whites with the sugar and gently combine with the previous mixture. Put into 14 cm diameter rings and cook in a Prepare a custard in a double boiler, heating up the milk with the 180°C ventilated oven, for about 20 minutes, with open valve. yolks to 85°C. When cooked, add the finely chopped chocolate and the softened gelatin. Let it warm down and add the Cognac emulsifying it all. Let it cool down and put the semi-thick cream. Use immediately.
White chocolate sprinkle
white chocolate cocoa butter
g g
500 250
Mix, heat up to 32°C and keep the temperature for the whole time.
Matching drinks Cognac Black tea Toddy, Cognac with orange skin
In the next page, mango with milk chocolate and Fleur de Sel jam is the one on the top. The other jams - pineapple, passion fruit and lime; citrus flavored peaches; basil scented Amalfi lemons; black tea Williams - have been conceived by Luca Mannori too and the recipes are in his book “COME MUSICA ELEM ENTI DI PASTICCERIA” PASTICCERIA”, published by Chiriotti Editori, www.chiriottieditori.com or www.pasticceriainternazionale.com or www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
Mango with milk chocolate and Fleur de Sel jam For about 15 small 100 g jars mango pulp sugar lemon juice 40% milk chocolate Fleur de Sel
g g g g g
1000 550 35 300 2
Mix everything together, apart from the chocolate and the Fleur de Sel. Boil a first time. Add the chopped chocolate, mix, cover and set aside in the refrigerator for 12 hours. Next day resume cooking, constantly skimming skimming and checking at 66° Brix. Remove from heat, add the Fleur de Sel, mix and put in jars j ars immediately. Keep in a cool place out of light. Luca Mannori Prato Photos by Giancarlo Bononi
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www. asticceriainternazionale.com
Chef Pr P r ofile
Pierre St-Pierre Executive Pastry Chef Fairmont Washington, D.C.
Formerly of: of: Ritz-Carlton, New Orleans Ritz-Carlton, Huntington (Pasadena) Ritz-Carlton, Buckhead (Atlanta) Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge Born: Ville LaSalle, Quebec, Canada Training/Education: George Brown College, Toronto, Ontario Southern Alberta Institute of o f Technology, Technology, Calgary, Calgary, Alberta French Pastry School, Chicago Ecole Le Notre, Paris, France Notter School of Arts, Orlando, Florida Competitions: 1996 British Columbia Chef’s Grand Salon Culinaire Gold Medal - Showpiece 1999 Southern Pastry Classic [Grand Champion] Gold Medal - Showpiece and Cake, Cold Dessert Silver Medal - Hot Dessert
Strawberry Fields Milk Chocolate Lavender Honey Flan Milk Sugar Extra Brut Cocoa Powder Salt Bourbon Vanilla Extract Eggs Maracaibo Criolait Chocolate Lavender Honey
1 Liter 200gm 15gm 5gm 5ml 8 each 300gm as needed
Method:
Mix sugar and cocoa powder powder together. together. Scald sugar mixture, mixture, milk, vanilla, and salt. Pour over chocolate chocolate and stir until com pletely incorporated. incorporated. Temper in eggs and strain the mixture through a china cap. Warm the Lavender honey honey in a microwave. Pour a small layer into into the bottom of of the glassware. Top with warm warm flan mixture. Bake at 200F in a convection convection oven until set. Leave to cool in a refrigerator. refrigerator.
Red Berry Gelée
Fresh Strawberries, stemmed & cut in half Fresh Raspberries Granulated Sugar Bourbon Vanilla Bean, cut & scraped Fresh Orange/Lemon Fresh Mint Simple Syrup Bronze Leaf Gelatin, bloomed
750gm 750gm 100gm 1 each ¼ each 1 long sprig as needed as needed
Method:
Place all the ingredients in a stainless s tainless steel bowl and cover the bowl with plastic wrap. wrap. Place the bowl on a hot Bain Marie and cook until all the juices are released from the berries. Place the mixture in china cap to separate the juices but do do not squeeze the mixture as this will cloud the juices. Discard the berry berry pulp. Adjust the sugar of of the juices with the simple syrup to desired sweetness. sweetness. For every 500ml of of juice, add add 7gm of gelatin leaves to the hot juices. Cool mixture down to room temperature then add a layer to the top of the cold flans and place them back into refrigerator to set.
Wild Strawberry Milkshake
Bourbon Vanilla Ice Cream Whole Milk Wild Strawberry Puree
250gm 130ml 225gm
Method:
Place all the ingredients in a blender and mix.
Milk Chocolate Chantilly
Heavy Cream Maracaibo Criolait Chocolate, melted
400gm 275gm
Method:
In the bowl of an electric electric mixer, mixer, beat the cream on on high speed until stiff peaks just begin to form. Gently fold in the warm warm melted chocolate just until combined. Keep chilled in the refrigerator until needed.
Final Assembly
• Flan and Gelée set in desired glassware • Wild Strawberry Milkshake • Milk Chocolate Chantilly • Chocolate Butterfly Tuile • Chocolate Cigarette Pour the milkshake milkshake onto the layer of of gelée. Garnish with a quenelle of milk chocolate chantilly and décor. décor. Serve immediately.
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Laa Tarte Soufflee L L Lee Safari Au Cafe Recipe for 3 tarts: 18 cm diameter and 3.5 cm high
BASIC (SHORTCRUST) DOUGH:
700 G of flour type 55 500 G of butter 135 G of milk 30 G of egg yolks 40 G of caster sugar 20 G of salt total Weight: 4160 G Method:
With the paddle, mix the butter cut into pieces with the flour, until you get a sandy mass. Add all the other ingredients ingredients milk, eggs, caster sugar and salt mixed mixed together and knead slowly with the hook, don’t work a lot. The paste is stored in the refrigerator refrigerator 5°C. It is better to let it rest rest for 24 hours . It can be kept several several days in the fridge provided it is covered with a plastic film to prevent crust.
PISTACHIO PAIN DE GENES: 60 G of pistachio paste “Trablit“ “Trablit“ 375 G of raw almond paste 50% 75 G of egg yolks 300 G of whole eggs 75 G of flour T 55 40 G of starch 115 G of butter Method:
With the paddle, mix the pistachio paste “ Trablit “ and the almond paste with the egg yolks then then the whole eggs (gradually). Make Make it go up with the whip up to the ribbon. Add to the Maryse the filtered mixture of flour and starch then the butter melted at 50°C. Spread out within a biscuit framework with 60 X 40 cm by 1 cm high over sheet of “ silpat “ and cook at the ventilated oven, approximately approximately 10 minutes at 180°C. Let it cool and cut out discs 16 cm in diameter.. Reserve for the assembly of tarts. eter
PISTACHIO AND WHITE CHEESE 350 G of milk 350 G of white cheese 40% MG 60 G of pistachio paste “ Trablit “ 75 G of starch 50 G of caster sugar 1 G of salt flower 75 G of butter 175 G of egg white 100 G of sugar Method:
In a thick pan, mix the pistachio paste “ Trablit Trablit “ with a white cheese using a maryse. Add the milk, the starch, the caster sugar, sugar, salt and butter and whip while heating until boiling. Add the egg white at once whipped with the caster caster sugar. sugar. Draw up at once.
COMPOTEE OF STRAWBERRIES 250 G of strawberries pulp 50 G of syrup at 30 ° B 5 G of lemon juice 150 G of wild strawberries 200 G of strawberries (gariguettes ) 25 G of Cointreau 60%V Method:
Cut the strawberries (gariguettes) and mix the remainder of the ingredients. Let it macerate two hours minimum before before using.
Final Assembly
Cook white, with cores cores pie base 3.5cm high. Leave the circle of cooking. Furnish with a very fine layer of of pistachio and white cheese. cheese. Put a pistachio pain de Gene disc then garnish with compotée of strawberries (220 G for 1 tart 18 cm diameter). Cover and smooth pistachio and white cheese. cheese. Gild and cook in the ventilated oven 175°C during approximately 20 minutes. After cooling, decorate decorate with strawberries, pistachios. pistachios.
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Recipe for 3 desserts: 1 X 16 cm - 1 X 18 cm - 1 X 20 cm out of 4.5 cm high
COFFEE SAFARI BISCUIT:
500 G of raw almond paste 50% 500 G of whole eggs 30 G of coffee paste ”Trablit“ 100 G of flour T55 10 G of starch 80 G of butter Weight: Weig ht: 1220 G Method:
Mix at a mixer, with the paddle, the almond paste with the whole eggs (add them gradually one by one). one). Whip up average speed during 15 minutes then add the filtered flour with the starch and then the hot melted butter and coffee paste “ Trablit “ Cook in the ventilated oven at 170°C, during approximately 8 minutes.
HAZELNUT CRUSTY:
40 G of dark chocolate semi bitter 58% 70 G of hazelnut praline 70 G of hazelnut paste 70 G of paillete feuilletine Weight: Weig ht: 250 G Method:
Melt the semi bitter dark chocolat at at 35 °C approximately, approximately, add the hazelnut praline, hazelnut paste and finally the paillete feuilletine. Spray the mixture in circles. Place the whole at the refrigerator. refrigerator. To reserve for the assembly. 70 G = 12 cm diameter / 80 G = 14 cm diameter / 90 G = 16 cm diameter
VANILLA PECAN MOUSSE:
40 G of caster sugar 20 G of water 70 G of egg yolks 100 G of caster sugar 30 G of water 50 G of egg white 5 G of gelatine sheets 300 G of whipped cream 12 G of liquid vanilla “ Trablit “ 180 G of caramelized pecan nuts Weight: Weig ht: 644 G (with rehydrated gelatine) Method:
In a copper poêlon, make make a parfait base, base, cook 40 G of sugar and 20 G of water with 121°C, pour on the egg yolks and whip up until complete cooling. Make Italian meringue by cooking 100 G of caster sugar with 30 G of water at 121°C, pour on the egg whites and and whip up until complete cooling. Mix the parfait base with the melted melted gelatine, (softened beforehand in cold water), the Italian meringue, add the whipped cream, the liquide vanilla “Trablit “ and the caramelized pécan nuts.
CHOCOLATE SPRAYING: 200 G of cocoa butter 200 G of milk chocolate 37% Method:
Melt the cocoa butter at 40°C, add the milk chocolate and use at 35°C approximately.
CHOCOLATE COFFEE MOUSSE:
100 G of milk 100 G of heavy cream 40 G of caster sugar 75 G of egg yolks 15 G of coffee paste “ Trablit “ 300 G of milk chocolate 37 % 100 G of dark chocolate 64% 330 G of whipped cream Weight: Weig ht: 1055 G
- continued on next page
Joël Bellouet
(continued from previous page)
Method:
Make an custard cream with the milk, the heavy cream and the egg yolks and the caster sugar. Cook the whole mixture at 85°C. Add the paste of of coffee “ Trablit Trablit “ and mix, pour on the chopped chocolate and incorporate the whipped cream.
Final Assembly
Line the walls of a 4.5 cm high cake ring with a rhodoïd film. Place a layer of coffee safari biscuit 3.5 cm high and at the bottom a disk of coffee coffee safari biscuit. Lay out a slice of hazelnut crusty, on the coffee safari biscuit , garnish up to middle height with vanilla pécan mousse and finish with chocolate coffee mousse mousse right to the top. Freeze and smooth again.
Jean Jea n-M Miche hell Perruchon
DECORS AND FINISHING
Spray the dessert decorated with a coffee safari biscuit triangle with the chocolat spraying. Finish the decoration with crusty crusty filo, dried vanilla bean. bean.
Recipes courtesy Joel Bellouet and Jean-Michel Perruchon, founder and instructor at
Bellouet Bell ouet Conseil, Conseil ,
a pastry school in Paris, France, and publishers of many great pastry books. For more more inforinformation, go to
wwww.bellouet.web.com. w 15
Chef Pr P r ofile
Haazelnut Cappuccino Torte H Havana Meringue: 2-8” layers 9.3 oz / 266 g. 8 oz. / 228 g. 8 oz. / 228 g. 1.8 oz / 53 g. .2 oz / 5 g. .7 oz / 19 g.
egg whites sugar hazelnut crunch cocoa powder cinnamon bread flour
Method:
Coarsely grind hazelnuts, mix with cocoa, cinnamon, and flour flour.. Whip whites and sugar to stiff peaks. Fold nut mixture into meringue. Spread thin into into 8” square pans pans lined with paper. Bake 365 F. F. for 30 min.
Hazelnut Crunch: 3.2 oz. / 90 g. 1 oz. / 30 g. .7 oz. / 19 g. 5.9 oz. / 169 g.
sugar water cocoa butter whole hazelnuts
Method:
Boil sugar and water in sauté pan. Add ha zelnuts, stir until caramelized. caramelized. Add cocoa butter,, stir and spread out on parchment butter lined pan. Cool.
Orange Gelee:
Bill Foltz
4.4 oz. / 125 g. 2 oz. / 57 g. .3 oz. / 7 g. .14 oz. / 4 g.
Mandarin puree sugar pectin gelatin sheet
Bill Foltz is a graduate with honors of both Hocking College with Method: an Associate Degree in Culinary Bring puree, sugar, and pectin to a boil. Arts and Sullivan College with an Add bloomed gelatin sheet. Cool. Associate Degree in Baking and Pastry Arts. Over the years he Espresso white chocolate has gained experience in cater- mousse: oz. / 4 g. gelatin sheet ing, pastry shops, and large his- .2 .7 oz. / 20 g. water toric Resorts. He has won many 4.8 oz. / 138 g. milk awards at local, national and in- 6 oz. / 175 g. 30% white chocolate ternational food competitions. In couverture 1993, at the Culinary Salon in 6.6 oz. / 187 g. heavy cream Cincinnati, Ohio, he received a 1.4 oz. / 40 g. espresso bean, crushed gold medal for a pastillage centerpiece, a silver medal for his pastry display, as well as the special judges’ award for overall display. display. At the 1996 International Hotel & Motel Food Show in i n NYC he received a gold medal and special judges award from the French Consulate in Paris for “Best Pastillage Showpiece”. Again, in NYC, in 1998 he received a gold medal and special judges’ award from the Philanthropique Society for “Best Pastillage Showpiece”. In 2001 he competed in the U.S. U.S. Pastry championship. championship. Again in 2002, 2002, he received the award for “Best Showpiece”, and in 2003 and 2004 he placed second overall. Also in 2003, he was a team member in the National Pastry Team Championship in Las Vegas. Vegas. He is now working as Executive Pastry Chef of Sagamore Resort in Bolton Landing, NY.
16
Method:
Bloom gelatin and water. water. Scald milk, steep beans for for 5 minutes in milk. Dissolve gelatin in milk, strain with chinois. chinois. Add hot milk to chocolate chocolate,, cool. Whip cream to soft peaks, peaks, fold chocolate chocolate into cream. Mold immediately.
Chocolate Cream: 1- 8” layer 4.4 oz. / 125 g. 4.4 oz. / 125 g. 1.8 oz. / 50 g. .9 oz. / 25 g. 3.3 oz. / 95 g. couverture
heavy cream milk yolk sugar 64% chocolate
Method:
Heat cream and and milk. Temper yolk and sugar into milk mix. Cook to 83 C. Strain and add chocolate chocolate.. Beurre mix smooth. Mold immediately.
Crunch base: 1- 8” base 3.5 oz. / 100 g. 2.2 oz. / 63 g. Pinch / .8 g. 2.2 oz. / 63 g. .9 oz. / 25 g.
sugar butter salt ground hazelnuts cake flour
Method:
Cream all together, chill, roll to 1/8” thick. Bake 350 F till golden.
Final Assembly
Place an 8” square ring on a parchment lined sheet pan. pan. Put the baked baked base on bottom. Brush with melted chocolate chocolate and lay the first layer of meringue on top. Pour the melted chocolate cream on top of the cake, let set. Spread a thin layer of of mousse, let set. Pour a thin layer of of orange gelee, let set. Place the second second layer of meringue on top. Spread the rest of the mousse in the ring. Freeze cake, cake, demold, cut into cubes and spray with a velvet chocolate finish.
STEP ONE:
Spray the mold with red cocoa butter butter..
STEP TWO:
Fill the biscuit mix in in the circles, spreading the crushed raspberries, then bake.
STEP THREE:
In a mixer, mixer, combine the whole almonds with with sugar and flour. flour.
STEP FOUR:
Infuse the green tea in the sweetened cream. cream.
STEP FIVE:
Layer the mold with the chocolate chocolate mousse.
STEP SIX:
Fill in with the green tea mousse, mousse, ending with the dacquoise.
Green Tea Chocolate Heart Set Up: Spray an entremets heart mold (available from PCB Creation) with red cocoa butter and an even mixture of dark chocolate and cocoa butter. butter. Let it set. Fill bottom half with the chocolate mousse, layer with the raspberry chocolate biscuit, fill other half with the green tea mousse. Close the mold with a layer of dacquoise. Freeze. Finishing and Presentation: Unmold the entremets on a sablé (shortdough) base. Décor: isomalt eggs and crystallized sugar, chocolate strings and gold leaf. Recommended wine: Grand Marnier. Serve very cool or with ice cream, if preferred.
by Jean-Francois Arnaud
Chocolate Mousse Ingredients: for approx. 3 entremets Crème anglaise: 200 g - Milk 3 – Egg yolks 25 g – Sugar 2 – Soaked and pressed gelatin sheets (5g) 300 g - Dark Couverture (70 %) 400 g - Whipped Cream Procedure: Prepare a crème anglaise with the above ingredients: off the heat, add the gelatin, pour the couverture, mix and let cool. Then incorporate the whipped cream cream and use use immediately.
Dacquoise Ingredients: for approx. 3 entremets 120 g – Whole Almonds 115 g – Confectioner’s sugar 20 g - Flour 200 g – Egg white (7 eggs) 80 g - Sugar (continued on page 19)
17
Éclosion by Patrick Lasseigne Procedure: On a half-moon base, lay a sphere, then different molded and ‘cracked’ eggs (see film photo).
STEP ONE:
Spray an egg mold with chocolate chocolate (50/50 mix Couverture with cocoa butter).
Decor: milk chocolate arabesques (see film photo).
STEP TWO:
With the help of a spatula dipped in dark couverture, create irregular stripes from bottom to top in each egg.
STEP THREE: Turn over the mold and take out excess couverture.
STEP FOUR:
Pour milk couverture on an acetate sheet.
STEP FIVE: Cut out different triangles, and let set.
STEP SIX:
18
Install a sphere on the half-sphere half-sphere mold and continue the construction.
in2 food tel: 770-887-0201 fax: 770-887-0086 ww.in2food.com
Rose Satin Garnet Satin Copper Satin Caramel Satin (Bronze) Super Gold Satin Soft Gold Chrome Satin Light Silver Satin Silver Satin White Satin Antique Gold Satin Blue Satin Mint Satin Pale Green Satin Forest Green Satin Cosmic Pink Satin Cosmic Green Satin Apricot Satin Gold Luster Peach Luster Lavender Luster Green Luster Gold Green Luster Pale Eggplant Luster Blue Luster Pink Luster Silver Sparkle
Red Garnet Red Ruby Orange Carnelian Orange Garnet Amber Yellow Citrine Yellow Topaz Green Sphene Green Peridot Green Emerald Green Crystal Turquoise Aquamarine Blue Lapis
Blue Sapphire Blue Topaz Purple Amethyst White Diamond Black Onyx Pink Quartz Opal Gold Platinum Silver Copper Bronze Antique Gold Brass
Pearl Red Pearl Gold Pearl Green Pearl Blue Pearl Orange Pearl Purple Pearl Silver
Custom Color Blending Ava Available ilable
Crimson Red Cardinal Red Moulin Rouge Red Sunrise Orange Popsicle Orange Coral Orange Gilded Yellow Aureolin Yellow Reef Green Carnival Green Tropical Tropic al Green Key West Green Jade Green Indigo Blue Regal Blue Mediterranean Blue Aqua Blue Harvest Purple Alabaster White Eclipse Black Chocolate Brown Tuscan Brown Brown Sahara Tan Dusty Rose Passion Pink Cherry Blossom Pink
31
July 16-20 IFT Annual Food Show New Orleans, LA www.ift.org
Calendar October 22-25 Salon du Chocolat Paris, France www.chocoland.com
July 30 – August 3
November 10-13
ACF National Convention San Antonio, Texas www.acfchefs.org
7th Annual Chocolate Show New York, NY www.chocoland.com
August 6-8
January 22-24, 2006
Louisiana Foodservice Expo New Orleans, LA www.lra.org
Fancy Food Show San Francisco, California www.specialtyfood.com
August 20-22
February 19-21, 2006
Western Foodservice & Hospitality Expo Los Angeles, CA www.westernfood-expola.com
Canadian International Food and Beverage Beverage Show Toronto, Ontario www.crfa.ca
September 9-11 Florida Restaurant Show Orlando, Florida www.fraexpo.com
September 11-13 National Candy Show Philadelphia, PA www.rcaphila.com
October 8-12 ANUGA Food Show Cologne, Germany www.anuga.com
October 21,22 World Chocolate Masters World M asters Competition Brussels, Belgium www.barry-callebaut.com
Magazines
www.pastrysbest.com www.pasticceriainternazionale.it www.thuries.fr/magazine www.foodtradereview.co.uk www.pastryartanddesign.com www.chefswarehouse.com
Advertisers Ad vertisers www.cluizel.com
www.pidygourmet.com www.dairylandonline.com www.chefrubber.com www.clarodgourmet.com www.in2food.com
30
(continued from page 17)
Procedure: In a Robot-Coupe, mix the almonds with the confectioner’s sugar and the flour, incorporating this mixture with the egg whites that have hav e been whipped firm with the sugar. Immediately fill 18cm cake rings with this and bake at 325 degrees for approx. 20 minutes; let cool and cut in a heart shape.
Raspberry Chocolate Biscuit Ingredients: for approx. 3 entremets 3 – Egg Whites 30 g - Sugar 1 – Egg Yolk 75 g – Melted Couverture 20 g - Butter 20 g – Almond Flour 90 g – Crushed Raspberries Procedure: Whip the egg whites, add the sugar, then an egg yolk, the couverture melted with butter, then, incorporate the almond flour. flour. Fill 16 cm cake rings, sprinkling the crushed raspberries. Cook in the oven at 350 degrees for approx. 10 minutes; let cool and cut in a heart shape.
Green Tea Mousse Ingredients: for approx. 3 entremets 200 g - Cream 60 g - Sugar 6 g – Green Tea 2 ½ - Soaked and pressed gelatin sheets (6.25g) 200 g – Whipped Cream
Subscribe to
Procedure: Heat the cream with the sugar (at 180 degrees); add and infuse the green tea for a few minutes, sift onto the melted gelatin. Let cool, incorporate the whipped whipped cream, and use immediately immediately..
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pastry
Signature
Schmidhuber A R T
&
D E S I G N
manfred
MANFRED A. SCHMIDHUBER , Executive Pastry Chef, Aladdin Resort and Casino, Las Vegas, NV. formerly of: Caesar’s Palace, MGM Grand, Las Vegas, NV.
TRAINING: Johann Straus Konditorei, Salzburg, Austria.
TRI-CHOCOLATE TRI-CH OCOLATE PATÉ PATÉ Yield: 4 servings servings
FAVORITE DESSERT OF YOUR OWN CREATION: The Sampler Plate. “It has a selection of edible flowers and high-end chocolate and sugar decorations.”
HOBBIES: Skiing, water skiing, biking and swimming. FAVORITE INGREDITENT: Chocolate. “You can pour it, shape it, mold it; it’s very versatile.”
WHAT IS THE BEST PART PART OF THE PASTRY BUSINESS? “You can create your own taste and style, from classic to modern. It’s all about imagination.”
THE ONE THING YOU WISH YOU KNEW ABOUT THE INDUSTRY? “The long hours and never being off on R E H S U N H O J : S O T O H P
holidays.”
WHAT’S THE BEST PART PART OF BEING A PASTRY CHEF? “When customers appreciate the desserts and showpieces I create.”
DESCRIPTION OF BUSINESS: Hotel restaurant, catering operation, banquet facilities, facilities, upscale and casual cuisine.
NUMBER OF PASTRY STAFF: 21. NUMBER OF DESSERT MENU ITEMS: 200.
White chocolate paté: 6 oz/170 g white couverture, finely chopped 1 oz/28 g unsalted butter .5 oz/14 g crème de cocoa 1 oz/28 g heavy cream
In a medium bowl over a double boiler, melt white chocolate with butter and crème de cocoa. Stir in heavy cream. Place in piping bag and pipe into bottom third of silicone demi-sphere demi-sphere molds. Raspberry paté: 3 oz/85 g white couverture, finely chopped 1 oz/28 g heavy cream 1 oz/28 g unsalted butter 3 large egg yolks 3 oz/85 g granulated sugar .5 oz/14 g water 2 oz/57 g raspberry purée 1 oz/28 g eau de framboise
1. Melt white chocolate, cream and butter over a double boiler. 2. Meanwhile, whip egg yolks and sugar over double boiler until yolks are light and fluffy and have tripled in volume. Fold yolks into chocolate mixture; add water,, raspberry purée and framboise. water framboise. Pour into into piping bag and pipe on top of White Chocolate Paté layer, in second third of mold. Mango paté: 3 oz/85 g white couverture 1 oz/28 g heavy cream 1 oz/28 g unsalted butter 3 oz/85 g egg yolks 3 oz/85 g granulated sugar .5 oz/14 g water 3 oz/85 g mango purée
1. Heat white chocolate, cream and butter over a double boiler until chocolate is melted. 2. Meanwhile, whip egg yolks and sugar over double boiler until yolks are light and fluffy and have tripled in volume. Fold yolks into chocolate mixture, add water and mango purée. Pour into piping bag and pipe on top of Raspberry Paté layer, in final third of mold. Assemby:
Chocolate-cocoa butter mix (50-50%) Chocolate-cocoa Pulled sugar spirals
20
Unmold paté trio domes and spray with with chocolate-co chocolate-co-coa butter mix. Place on plate and garnish with cubes of fresh mango and pulled sugar spirals.
ADVE AD VERTI RTI E WIT WITH H
T H E T H E B E E S S T o f t h t h e P A S A S T T R R Y Y C O C O M M M U U N N I I T T Y Y Issue 1, M A Y 2005 Y 2
T H H U UR I E ES M MAG AZI S NE N E
C u u s i i i in e e T T r r i i l l o g y
P AS T TI I C C C E C RI A I N E NT E T R E N AZI O ON A N LE
S i i c ci i l li i a a n C a a s s a a t t a a
P AS T TR Y ’S B ’S BE S ST T
E n-M i i n g g H H s u a u a nd T he e 2 2 0 00 5 W 0 5 W or l l d C d C u u p
D O OB LA MAG AZI N NE E
T he e N N e e w w A A s i i a an
W a a y
P AS T TR Y Y A ART T & & D D E E S SI I G N G N
Y oni M M or a a le le s
C H HE F E E E X F XP R P E S S S S
T he e M M a a g i i c o c o f f M M i i c ch e l C l C l l u u z i e i e l l
A world of ready-tofill pastry products Products:
A truly international international magazine for the US Market. We reach pastry chefs the old fashion way:face-to-face. IT’S A FREE MAGAZINE! • An exclusive and highly qualified readership. • Volume publishing based on demand.
Did we say it’s FREE? • High content-to-ads ratio. • Each issue is entirely published on the web at www.pastrynet.com, www .pastrynet.com, adding additional exposure.
• • • • •
Puff pastry shells & tarts Sweet, neutral & chocolate tartlets Cream horns Cream puffs & éclairs Waffle dough tulips
Advantages:
• Products only need dry storage… no freezer space needed • Shelf life life 6 to 9 months • Save costly labor time by using ready-to-fill PIDY products
AND IT IS FREE! FREE! • Select your form of advertising: traditional ads, advertorials and recipe ads.
Contact us for our competitive rates and distribution information. information.
[email protected]
PIDY Inc. 90 Inip Drive Inwood, NY 11096 Tel: 516 239 6057 Fax: 516 239 9306 Email: rvanoudenhove@p
[email protected] idygourmet.com om www.pidygourmet.com
21
Food Trade Trade Review This feature looks at how a family bakery in a Belgian market town came to create a whole new industrial dimension to the world of patisserie. The family was Dehaeck, t he town was Ypres, and their industrial patisserie production eventually gave rise to the acronymic company name of PIDY – Patisserie Industrielle Dehaeck Ypr Ypres. es. Company founder Andre Dehaeck was an enterprising young man back in 1967 when he worked at the family patisserie and bakery. As well as baking the pastries required for his patissiers to fill, he found a ready market for gift packs of unfilled pastries which were purchased by tourists visiting the battlefields surrounding this once war-torn Flanders town. In time, as word word spread of Dehaeck pastries, enquiries started to come in from wholesalers wishing to sell the products in other parts of Belgium. The orders followed followed and Pidy had arrived. To serve this embryonic market for empty pastry shells (or “ready-tofill” as we now call them) the first dedicated industrial production unit was created in a bakery of 520m2. Compare this with the present-day Pidy Ypres factory of 10,000m2 (below) which is one of three Pidy Group industrial bakeries located in Belgium, France and the United States with a combined area of 23,000m2 . With annual production now close to three hundred million pieces, some degree of specialization is necessary so each bakery is responsible for specific pastry types. Within the company’s company’s principal domestic markets of Belgium and France the main volume line is the range of traditional bouchées and vol au vents which come off the end of the continuous tunnel oven at a rate of 18,000 per hour hour.. These are all produced in Belgium at the Ypres bakery together with other puff pastry products made using the “French method” of extruding a layer of shortening between two sheets of raw dough. dough. By successive lamination, thousands of leaves are built up to produce the “mille feuille” which gives the best quality French feuilletee patisserie its “lighter than air” character. The scaling of traditional patisserie techniques from the Dehae ck family bakery to industrial production methods is an area where Pidy, as innovators of this type of product, have been particularly successful and has led
ABOVE: Pidy’s Pidy’s 10,000m2 bakery bakery at Ypres Ypres (known as Ieper in Flemish). BELOW: Continuous tunnel ovens with capacity for 18,000 units per hour
22
Selection of Pidy pastry cases – many of the original products still feature in the current assortment.
to the creation of a successful stand alone industrial engineering company called Dewilde NV which is also based at Ypres, opposite the main Pidy bakery. The other main European bakery is located in France France,, which very conveniently adjoins the FrancoFranco-Belgian Belgian border at Halluin only a matter of 25 kilometres away from the group headquarters at Ypres. Ypres. There are five main production lines at Pidy Halluin, each specializing respectively in choux dough, short crust pastry, pressed puff pastry tartlets, genoise sponges and “spiral-wound” “spiral-wound” products such such as cream horns. horns. In the past, as a result of acquisitions and green-field investments, there were other Pidy bakeries in France but over recent years production has been centralized at the company’s Halluin site to achieve optimum benefits from what has become a highly-automated and capital intensive production process.
Succesive laminations produce the traditional “mille feuille”
LEFT: Production of pressed puff pastry savoury tartlets at Pidy Halluin bakery in northern France. RIGHT: Continuous automatic production has virtually eliminated direct labour on the choux production line. BELOW: Pre-coating Pre-coating shortcrust pastry with a moisture barrier adds significantly to post-filling shelflife and eating quality.
PIDY Inc. 90 Inip Drive Inwood, NY 11096 Tel: 516 239 6057 Fax: 516 239 9306
[email protected] www.pidygourmet.com
In full, Pidy now make a comprehensive range of pastry types including: • mini party food carriers (neutral and sweet) • puff pastry bouchees and vol au vents (individual pastry shells) • choux buns, éclairs and profiteroles of any size • blind-baked neutral tartlets and quiches from 1.5” up to 9” • genoise sponges plain and chocolate • sweet short crust tartlets and tart shells from 1.75” to 11” • puff pastry roulets and cream horns As well as the manufactur manufacturing ing innovations developed by Pidy, one key feature of their industrial pastry-shell production is the long shelf-life of up to twelve months on the finished products. This compares with the few days shelf-life normally expected on fresh-baked pastry. pastry. The difference in time for spoilage to occur is a function of moisture content, and whereas fresh pastry would typically have a moisture content of 18%, the Pidy products undergo a further dehydr dehydration ation process after baking to reduce the moisture level significantly below below 9%; the point at which molds molds can no longer develop. develop. This is obviously essential to cover time spent in the distribution chain. Once the products products are filled, the pastry rehydr rehydrates ates to a balancing level by absorbing water from the filling (dependent on the moisture content of the filling) and then the clock starts ticking again as for a fresh product. product. On highly absorbent products, products, such as sweet short crust tartlets, it is possible to order the products pre-coated with an internal moisture barrier which slows down the rate of absorption, and in this way extend the shelf-life before the pastry becomes too soft. Although Pidy originally developed their range for domestic consumption in Belgium and France, increasingly the benefits of convenience and consistency have been identified firstly by the catering industry and then by industrial food manufacturers. manufacturers. Back in 1968, Pidy started exporting products to the United States. The first contacts with American distributors happened at the ANUGA A NUGA Food Show in Köln – Germany. Germany. After years of increased demand by the American market, Pidy decided to start their own distribution company in the United States. Pidy was first incorporated in Chicago back in 1989 and in 1992 Pidy moved to a larger warehouse in Dayton NJ. In 1995 Pidy acquired a pastry shell manufactur manufacturer er called “Gourmet Pastry Shells” located in Inwood NY. Next to the wide range of “ready to fill” products imported from Belgium and France, this acquisition enabled the company to produce locally products perfectly adapted to the American taste. In 1998 Pidy Inc. moved to a much larger factory in the industr industrial ial area of Inwood, to cope with the increasing demand of locally produced specialities. Since opening in the US, the company has established a leading presence both in the catering and food manufacturing manufacturing sectors. sectors. The catering sector is serviced serviced through regional foodservice distributors. distributors. Orders are shipped from from our warehouse warehouse in Inwood NY. In the food manufacturing sector, sector, Pidy have built successful working relationships with key industry partners large and small, working together on a project-by-project basis to supply major retail and catering customers with finished products ranging from party-food to fresh fruit tartlets. As well as supplying products from the standard range, range, there are opportunities for adapting recipes to meet customers’ individual requirements, requirements, and where volumes justify, to consider investing in new tooling to create bespoke products. Acceptance by US customers has been facilitated by the IFS and BRC BRC Higher Level accreditation at both the bakeries in Belgium and France France.. The production facility in Inwood has been indoctrinated into a custom Quality System Audit, administered by AIB International, which encompasses recognized global system requirements. The company also has considerable expertise in the area of packaging – gained from over thirty years of shipping fragile products around the world in more than 30 countries – and free technical support can be provided in that area. For standard standard products, many types of plastic trays can be supplied from existing molds and by using the same tray for trans-shipment can result in significant savings on labor and packaging waste costs. It is a main aim of Pidy to provide not just the product but full technical support. A team of specialists can be called upon where consultation is required, and commercial commercial confidentiality is guaranteed. Pidy is no longer simply a mass producer. The company company can also make custom products based on the customer’s specification. In this time of globalization, Pidy’s vocation is to become a true partner—your creative partner. partner.
23
the woman behind the world’s best beefsteaks BY KE KELL LLII CO COLA LACO CO
w
HEN LUCKY MARCELLI WAS 21, SHE
and her sister Joyce were singers in a show band in Atlantic City. Having been discovered by a Japanese company the sisters were preparing for a six month performing contract in Japan when they received news that their beloved grandmother was dying from cancer and had a only a few months to live. The girls stopped in their tracks, and moved to Florida to nurse their grandmother until she died. While in Florida, the girls being New Englanders, rejoiced in a Saturday ritual of picking dazzling ripe tomatoes. Little did Lucky know that this appreciation would result in changing the course of her life forever. forever. While in Florida, the girls began began a Saturday Saturday ritual ritual of picking picking tomatoes in neighboring fields. The access to these gems nine months out of the year was something the girls grew to love. Little did Lucky know that this ritual would result in changing the course of her life. A plan for a trip to New York York City to visit their mom combined with their Dad’s keen business sense is what helped to steer them into the business of tomatoes. Their dad suggested to them that Instead of flying to New York, why not drive a truck and take a load of fresh tomatoes with them to sell to chefs? This would pay for the trip and they might make a little extra money for themselves. At the time, they knew nothing about New York York City and very little about tomatoes or produce, but relying on the
24
Photographs by Sean J. Palmer
NYC. The evolution has been amazing. Chefs such as Daniel Boulud and Jean-Georges were working for other people back then and t hat is when we established our relationship. relationship. I was just the young girl on the tomato truck making the deliveries on my own for the first eight years. When we saw the business growing, we decided that we would build it up, sell it and move on to what they really wanted to do (which at that time wasn’t really determined). But we realized that we were a highly respected company in one of the greatest cities in the world by some if the greatest chefs in the world, you say, wow,, we have really created something. We wow We fell in love with what we were doing and now I can’t imagine not being associated with it.
Lucky s Red Beefsteaks, Beefsteaks, Gold Beefsteak Beefsteaks, s, Grape and Plum Tomatoes ’
dependable intuition and imagination of their father, they arrived in New York City in November with a truck full of fresh tomatoes. Since the local growing season on the West Coast had long since past, the chefs were amazed and wanted to know where they got these wonderful tomatoes at that time of year! “In the beginning we were not thinking of this as a "business", we were just thinking, what tomato would we like to have for dinner that night, so we would pick ripe tomatoes because those were the ones we wanted to eat, never thinking that we were going to drive them a thousand miles to sell them.” After a few months of many long nights on the road, sleeping on the floor of her mother’s apartment and getting the tomatoes to chefs the best way they could, they bought their first delivery truck. Lucky began driving around delivering in NYC, building a customer base while her brother Alan and sister Joyce drove back and forth from Florida. Their mother came on board and helped with repacking the
About the Tomatoes: Weather is always an issue. We work with nature not against it. Those tomatoes have to be ripe before we pick them. If it has been extremely cold, or ext remely rainy it can cut down on the supply tremendously. There are times we have to pull back and say, sorry no tomatoes today, no tomatoes next week. In exchange for temporary interruption of supply, what we do guarantee is a quality tomato. So it may not be 52 weeks of the year. It may be 49 or 47, but you can bet that what we bring you, when we bring it to you, is going to be quality quality..
What is in the name? Why Lucky? When we were young our parents took in foster kids. We had ten foster kids at one point. Three of the girls were sisters, ages 3, 5 and 7 and they had been removed from their natural parents because they had been abused, so they tomatoes to make them look perfect for Lucky stayed with us for six months. The youngest to deliver them. girl shared my birth name, Lee. So while dining at our table of 20, and someone would say “Considering I was a professional singer, I was Lee, both of us would turn around. One day painfully shy when it came time for the one- my Dad took me aside and said "You know she on-one with the big important restaurant peo- has never had anything of her own, for heaven’s heaven’s ple in New York City, but the tomatoes really sake, lets give her own name, and we’ll call you sold themselves.” something else." So, along with the nickname Lucky came a prophecy. He taught me how to The company born of spontaneity had fallen make my own luck in life. It was an unbelievinto a niche that no one else was occupying. able blessing. They were offering tomatoes directly from field to kitchen in matter of a couple of days and The coming together of Lucky’s Tomatoes everyone loved it. and The Chefs Warehouse I have known of The Chefs’ WareThis was during a time when chefs would take house/Dairyland for years. They are so highly tomatoes off the menu because the only ones respected in the industry. When I look a t the available during the fall and winter were gassed three companies: Star Produce, The Chefs’ and no chef worth his salt would use them. The Warehous Warehouse/Dairylan e/Dairyland d and ours, the similarities only other choice was imported tomatoes are amazing. We all started as family businesses which were grown in hothouses and usually and though we have all grown, we have all maincame in at three dollars a pound. tained the family business identity. We have all carefully selected employees to reflect our own When I look back ba ck on it, the last twenty years philosophies. The three companies working has had the greatest generation of chefs in together is incredible opportunity for us.
25
m
EDITERRANEAN TOMATO TOMATO--LEMON TART
FROM: Entertaining at Home with a Four Star Chef,
Daniel Boulud, Filipacchi Publishing. 2003
Makes 6 servings
FOR THE TART SHELL
1 cup plus 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces Finely grated zest of 1 lemon 1/8 teaspoon salt 1 large egg, lightly beaten FOR THE TOMATOES AND THE LEMON CUSTARD
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 2 sprigs thyme, leaves chopped 8 plum tomatoes, peeled, halved, and seeded Salt and freshly ground pepper 1/2 cup milk 1/2 cup heavy cream 2 large eggs 2 large egg yolks Freshly squeezed juice of 2 lemons 1/4 cup halved, pitted Niçoise olives 2 tablespoons coarsely chopped basil leaves MAKE THE TART SHELL 1 Put the flour, butter, zest, and salt in a food processor and
pulse until crumbly. crumbly. Add the egg and pulse just until moist curds form-don't overprocess. overprocess. Turn the dough dough out onto a work surface and knead it once or twice to pull it together. Flatten it into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. hour. (Wrapped airtight, the dough can can be kept refrigerated for up to 2 days or frozen for up to a month.) 2 Place an 8-inch tart pan with a removable bottom or a tart
ring on a parchment-paper-lined parchment-paper-lined baking sheet. sheet. Lightly dust a work surface and the top of of the dough with flour. flour. Roll the dough out into a round that is approximately 10 inches in diameter and 1/8 inch thick. As you roll, lift the dough and, if necessary, necessary, dust with flour. Fit the dough into the bottom and against the side of the pan, taking care not to stretch it. Trim the excess dough even with the pan's pan's rim. If the dough cracks, use lightly moistened scraps to fill the cracks. Refrigerate the tart shell for at least 30 minutes. 3 Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 350˚F. 4 Line the crust with a parchment-paper round and fill with
dried beans or rice. Bake for 18 18 to 20 minutes. Remove the paper and beans, and bake 3 to 5 minutes more, or until lightly colored. Tran Transfer sfer to a rack to cool. (The crust can be kept at room temperature for up to 8 hours.) MAKE THE TOMATOES TOMATOES AND AND THE LEMON CUSTARD 300˚F. 5 Reduce the oven t emperature to 300˚F. 6 Line a baking sheet with foil, brush with 1 tablespoon of
the oil and sprinkle with the garlic and thyme. Place the tomato halves, cut side down, sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon oil, and season with salt salt and pepper. pepper. Bake for approximately 1 hour until the tomatoes are tender but still able to hold their shape; set aside. 7 Whisk together the milk, cream, eggs, yolks, lemon juice,
olives, and basil in a bowl; season with salt and pepper. 8 Place the tart shell on a parchment-paper-lined baking
sheet. Arrange the tomatoes, cut side up, up, in the tart shell and pour the custard mixture over. over. Bake 25 to 30 minutes until the custard is set. Transfer to a rack to cool. TO SERVE
Cut the tart into wedges and serve with a bowl of summer greens seasoned with a lemon and olive oil dressing. WINE PAIRING
The richness of a Viognier-based wine echoes the flavors of the custard while the grape's floral overtones blend well with the tart's lemony aromas. In particular, a rare rare Condrieu from the northern Rhône Valley Valley,, like the one produced by TardieuLaurent, makes a stunning choice. As always with Viognier, Viognier, get the most recent vintage.
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Photos courtesy of Daniel Boulud
How Do You Find Great Tomatoes Year Round? You Y ou Don’t Don’t --- We We Do!
For over twenty years, Lucky’s Lucky’s Real tomat omatoes has had a cooperative of farmers set up from New Jersey to Florida, providing a consistent supply of field grown, sun-ripened beefsteak tomatoes all year long. They are NEVER picked green and gassed, and they are not grown in hothouses. The tenderness you feel is the juice inside which gives them their f lavor! The nutrients and vitamins come from the soil they are grown in and the sweetness comes from the sun.
That which gives our tomatoes their wonderful flavor is also what makes them vulnerable to occasional inconsistencies. WEATHER -- it is our best friend and our worst enemy! We have learned to work with nature, not against it, and our reward is tomatoes that “taste the way tomatoes are supposed to taste!”
Red Sun-Ripened Beefsteaks Yellow Y ellow Sun-Ripened Sun-Ripened Beefsteaks Red Roma Plum Tomatoes Sweet Red Grape Tomatoes Specialty Varieties
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“There is no one like Frederic Bau. It is like being a painter with Picasso as your teacher.” Allison Johnson, Johnson, Asst. Pastry Chef Eleven Madison Park
chocolate school in paradise
w
HEN SEVEN OF NEW YORK CITY’S FINEST
pastry chefs travelled to southern France to take part in an intensive bon bon making seminar with Frederic Bau, Executive Pastry Chef and Director of Valrhona’s famous L’Ecole du Grand Chocolate, the results were a "crystallization" of insight and appreciation.
france
Kim Rothrock, Pastry Specialist for The Chefs Warehouse was the impetus behind the three-day event which took place at the home of Valrhona and L’Ecole du Grand Chocolate in Tain l’Hermitage, an exquisite town along the Rhône which Chef Bau jokes "has more goats than humans." I had the privilege of covering the seminar and was afforded "fly on the wall" access for every moment of the three day course. Chef "students" included: Ghaya Oliviera, Assistant Pastry Chef, Café Boulud; Jasmin Boijic, Pastry Chef Tavern on the Green; Michelle Tampakis, Pastry Chef Instructor at the Institute of Culinary Education (ICE); Allison Johnson, Assistant Pastry Chef, Eleven Madison Park, Amanda Clark, Assistant Pastry Chef, Jean Georges, Fritz Knipschildt, Chocolatier, Knipschildt Chocolatier and Vera Tong, Pastry Chef, Compass. Although the nine and a half hour-days for the bon bon class demanded the utmost in focus and effort from our group of pastry chefs, the good-natured ease of Chef Bau’s instruction made for an exceptionally enjoyable experience. The seminars cover two basic aspects of professional chocolate and pastry: improving of present skills and learning the more technical end of pastry. "The goal is not to get everything in the first class. The point is for the students to do it themselves, to learn. The biggest problem for pastry chefs is when they stop learning, when they start always saying ‘I know. I know," shares Chef Bau.
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"I have learned how it can be easy to work with chocolate." –Ghaya Oliviera
The story behind L’Ecole
"It is good for me to understand the process. Sometimes when results are irregular in pastry it has more to do with technique t han ingredients. Pastry techniques are constantly being reinvented. You think you know something and then you discover a better way of doing it." -Michelle Talbert
At 22, Frederic Bau set out to travel Europe to introduce Valrhona to those the business of pastry. ‘’I was very lucky, as it was a big challenge. I was very young when I started and when you are young you are not asking so many questions like you do when you are 40!’’
"This is not work!" -Amanda Clark
Travelling seven months out of the year however began to weigh on Chef Bau and he began to see valuable possibilities for a full-time pastry and chocolate school with the ever-growing Valrhona name and reputation.
"This is why many people do not like to work with chocolate because everything must be very precise. The only way to learn is to make bon bons by hand. I always wanted to come here and be challenged, to learn how to do everything the right way." -Fritz Knipshildt "What I have learned here is unbelievable, the recipes, the techniques… I will definitely take what I have learned and apply it to my work at Tavern on the Green." -Jasmine Boijic
He began by teaching small seminars to groups of Valrhona customers. These seminars generated so much interest that in 1988 a small laboratory was built next to the Valrhona factory in Tain L’Hermitage to accommodate the demand.
For the grand finale, the pastry chefs, with the help of Valrhona Pastry Chef Teacher David Capy , completed the enrobing and decoration process for the bon bons they had created and grandly displayed them on a large table in the laboratory. To see the vast assortment of beautiful chocolates overflowing the large kitchen was an incredible site. The thought t hat each of the intricate gems were made every step by hand by was impressive indeed; the successful results of a great teacher and very enthusiastic students.
In 2002, Chef Bau got the backing he was waiting for and waiting and the school school recei received ved an an even grander expansion, and new design created by Frederic himself.Once consisting of one lab fitting only eight people at a time, L’Ecole du Grand Chocolate Valrhona now encompasses three large state-of-the art labs; two used for stagiers and the third reserved strictly for mandatory Valrhona testing and core creations. The school now sees over 780 students a year, three days a week.
STOR ST ORY Y & PH PHOT OTOS OS BY KE KELL LLII CO COLA LACO CO
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