PURVEYORS OF FINE MACHINERY", SINCE 1983!
17" Heavy-Duty Extreme Series· Bandsaw w/ Cast Iron Wheels & Motor Brake
10" Cabinet Saws w/fliving Knife
---,
./,{ ~ 1\1eU' __...f; , '" -.,.).
• MoIor: 3 HP, 22fN, single·pttose
• Preo;::isiOfl ground cost iTOr'! table • Tobie size w{extension: 27' x 40'
Arbor speed: 4300 RPM • Max,depth 01 cut (both): 3'h' @gel", 2'Y16' @45' • Arbor: 'fj, '
•
Mo~,
•
•
rip capacity: G0690 - 30". G0691 - 50'
• Tobte lilt: 5" tell, 45' right Max, culling height: 12'
-
80690 - 603 ItIs.
G0691 - 644 Itls.
G0690
&.HANDWHHLS
w/Erlension Rails
mWUSfAtm,U ,,1',1,90 fAnE IN§lrs
~ SALE $1295 00 10" Lett-Tilting Contractor Style Table Saw w/ Riving Knife • Motor: 2 HP, 11 OVI220V, single-phase • Precisioo ground cast iron table size wtwings attoched: 27' x 44'
Rip copocity: 36' · Uft-off fence CopOCity: 3Y" @90', 2 't .' @45' Apptox. shipping weight: 342 Ibs.
,-.,--
x 17'
24'
• 2 bIoc!e speeds: 1700& 3500 FPM
• Approx, shiWing weight:
INWOOUCTOIN ~CE '125000
Motor: 2 HP, 110Vl220V, single·p/)ase, THe • Lorger pr9Cision ground cost irm Ioble size:
Double ball bearing blaae guides ClJick change blade reloose/lenslooai Approx shipping y,'e~)t 4141bs
FlNe! &
MIT'ER GA.lIGf
INClU[)El)
MOTOR BRAKE STOPS SlADE IN J SECONDS!
,-
G0513X2B '1.+95'" SALE $1150 00 _
2 HP, , 0" Hybrid Cabinet SOw o Motor: 2 HP. 11(JJ122rN. single-phose o PreciSion ground Ctlst iron toble size wiWings attached: 27 ' x 39h' • Arbor: ',Ie' 0 Rip copocity 30' • CopaCity: 3' @ 90', 2W @ 45' • C
DfWX! IPIiSA.W
10" Left-Tilting Super
Heavy-Duty Table Saw • Molor: 3 HP, 220V, siog\e·phase • Precision ground cast iron table • Table size wtwings ollached: 27' x 48~' • Max, deptl1 01 cut: 3' @ 90', 2lA' @ 45' • Cutting Ctlpacity: 8' L, 26' R • Approx shipping '>'Itlight: 465 100.
ALl1MA·CUSSIC- HlICE
G0661
!.7s)SW-
G0478
SALE 5695 00 ~ 14" Heavy-Duty Bandsaw ~ • . • .. -.. • MaiOI'; l Y.> HP, llCJJf120V, ,
single-j:tJ0S8, me, 1725 RPM
~
• PfaciSlcln ground cost iron table • Toole ~n; 201'," x 14' • ToOle fill: 45' R IO' t
• Cu~ifIQ cqXlCitylllroot- 13'h' • Max. clJl1ing .'leight- 6' o Blade sue: 92'h' to93'h' ('Ie' . .y,' W) o Cos! iroo wtleels • Awox shipping weight, 262 Ills INClLJOES DnUXE AlUMINUM Ilf-SAW fENCE
,
MAPEl" 110 8001
G0555X !625W"
FACTORY!
SALE
~,C'NG Coo
q
09WOOOM ~
W"(~~~~\?g~C(1
SALE 585000
mlIiI
ml!l
14" Industria l Resow Bandsaw
..
~ .. ,.~
•
• MoIct.2HP.IIOVf22fN, sirlQl~·phosa,
ONLY '107500 19" Heavy-Duty
Extreme Series- 8ondsow
THe, 1725 RPM
• Precision grouM cosIlroo table • Tobie sJZ9; leW x 14'/ ', '
• Toble@: 4S· R. S· L • Mi~ ropocitylllrool 13'h' • Max. cuMirxl height: JO' • Blade size lOS' L ('Ii' . '11'- W) • Blade speed: 3()(X) FPM • 6' r1l-SGW fence
•
•-"
G0514X
G0457 . .
'895
00
:.
shl~og
waight: 458 100
BALL SEARING BlADE GUIDES, CASf lOON WHEELS a: FENCE
INCLUDES BlADE, BAll BEARING BLADE GUIDEs&' MITEII GAUGE
ONLY
• 2 Blaoo sp88ds: 1700. 3500 FPM INCLUDES ALUMINUM!?f.SAW FENCE AnACHMENT. DUAL
sI1ippi!1ft wejght: 284 Ibs_
ISO 11001 rACTORYl
• MoIor: 3 HP, 22fN. singla·t11ose. lEfC • Precision ground cost iron kltJ.18 • Tabla size· 26Y,' x 19' x l'h' • Ctltting cq:o::itylltlrool, 18,/,' • Max, cutting Ilei!/ll: 12' • Blede size: 143' L (W . 1'/, ' wide)
• Approx_
Appro~.
MAP' III
&. WO~K LIGHT
'575 00
.!BW" TOQ!r~
SHOP lUX· CI.ASMC- HICI
....."""'-
MAOlIM Ito too 1 FAC10m
ONLY
SJ aCIINICAt SEI!VICE: 570·!>46·9MJ
fllX: &QO·43a-5>'01
3 GREAT SHOWROOMS! BELLINGHAM, WA • MUNCY, PA • SPRINGFIELD, MO
__
, OVEt A MIUlOH SQUARE fEET ~ACKED TO THE RAFlERS WITH MACtlINE~Y '" TOOlS , 2 OVERSEAS QUAlITY CONlROL OFFICES ST.t.FFEO Willi OUALlRE[) G4!IULY HtGIHEEIIS
I OOTH 15845
' MOST Of!{)Ets SHlf'I'EO THE SAME DAY
l1l'i - . - . . . .TOE ... LSI
REDUCED PRICES! FREE Stll"PING!
• 2' ffOIJR Oi:OEItiNG BY 1'tiON£ OR OHliHE
15" Planers
SUMMIER SALE GRIZZLl IS GIVING YOU HOT JUST OHI,
, ILIGE PARTS fACIlITY WflH OVER ) WiLlIQIrj P,uTS IN STOCK AT All nMfS , millED SERVICE TtCHHlClANS.u AU. 3 LOCATlOIIS
- , .......... _-""".
eo 10 QRlZlI.f.COM' TO 5& THE fULL SElECnON Of SALE midi
8" Jointer w/fxclusive Digital Height Readout
• Motor 3 HP, 22fN, s~18-phose • Pnlclsion ground cost iloo laDIes
MAKO
& ertsMkln wings • TotlI8 SiZI:! 15' x 20' • MID. cuttl~ heigh! 8'
ItO 1001
""""
• Moler: 3 HP, 2'XN, single·phose, lEFC
• Feed rata: 16 & 30 FPM • C~tJhaod Sj)OOd' 5000 RPM
• Precision ~rolJld
• Buln·in IT'IObIle bose
• TolrII klble size: e ' x 76W
• Mognelk: solely switch • Hoov;.o.fty cost ilon consndion • Appmx shipping weigh! 675 lOs.
• InIEIEId klble siZe:
G0453 J lJlad9 Cultelflead
east iroo IabIes
SpirolCuH09rneod ONLY $1495°0
• ApPfOx stllpping WBlght
, iD
13" Planer w/Dusf CoIlecffon Motor: 2 liP, llQ11, s'flgl&-ptlose Mox. cutting wid1h: 13' • CutIMleod speed • Mtlx. cutting height 6' 8IXlO RPM • Mcu. ClAIing depltl: '/lA' Feed rule: 19 FPM Knives: 2 double--
_HSS
•
~x.
shipping weight. 95 lOs INCWO(S 2'1( DUST PORT"
COUfCTION MG, SlOE HANDlES I HJP II' WINGS ~ PORT... BlLlTYI
~ORYPR1C,$375°O 9
5971'"
6" Parallelogram Jointers • Molal: I 'll HP, l)OVn2(N, slngle·phose • Precislon gfOlJ"ld cost iron 100Ies size. 6' x 55'h' • Robbelrog oopoci!y: !h' • Mox. depl1 01 ell ',i' • Cult8rt1eod speed: 4850 RPM • Pttoll&lc9OO1 'lIble odjuslmenl . . • CenI9r rTlOlfi8d 18IlC9 ,, • Bum·in mobile bose o Approx. shippioJ IWIlghl: 382 Ills, IJrlCLUOUrm
<.
ONLY $65000
8" JOinters
w/Bulff·fn MobIle
• Culteltleod speed: 5000 RPM • Detuxe cost iron Ience SlUI: 35' l x 5' H • Buin.in mobils tI(&j • Approx, shippirlg \WIght: 552 Ibs
SALE $75000
• Spindle ~ings 00 labIe:
o'h'
• Approx. stliPPiflll weigh! 307 Ills INCI.I.IOtS M~GNrnc POWER SWITCH. MITER
GAiJGE. fEJoK:E wm;
HQU).[)()WN SPRINGS
•
...;.,;:;,
I 'h HP Cyclone Dusl Collector • Moklf: I II.> HP, 11 QIIaw, Slngie-phose,
mc Doss
'F', 60 Her1z13450 RPM • IntDke hOle !ll:z8: 6' • ImpellEll": 12'11' sleel
• Suction C(lpocIt{. 1025 Cf),l 0 2.6 SP • ~. skrt\c pressure, (In. 01 ..wier): 10.3
• Filter: .02·2 microns (99% flfllci&nCy) • Filter soooce wee:
96 sq,
n.
o Collectton tIrm1:
35 gal , sIee!
• "Wrox shippif"rij GI026 j9~
ONLY
'92500
"""".".
ONLY '1095'"
• SpIndle speeds: 7CXXl &- lO,CXXJ RPM
HI', 20/,' , 4' &-
.""'"
r~"aAFlfY
..
I
G0656X
ONLY '89500
Base
• MoIor: 3 HP. 2'lf:N, 5 ngJ&.ph'l<;EI. me, 3450 RPfd • Pr!!dsloo groood cost Irooillbles slze: 9' x 72'h" • Robb8Iing CIlpocily: 'h' • Mox. do3p/I1 of ell: !Io'
--'~-
G
3 HP Shaper
• WOx. stlippmg 'MJighI: 160 100,
ONLY
~
$179500 ~
G0656 ~
G
JTTEIIHEIO.O
• Mellor: 3 HP, 2'XN. singl&-pOOse wtreversing switch • Precision ground casl iron loble • TClbIe w/sloollald wing ofIoched: 30W x 20W • 3 lnl9l"chongeob1e spindl9S: y/, ;t,' &- I' • SpiJ"l(]le 1roV91: 3'
fIoolo; & loop
R"CI(" PINION AD.J\..ISWfNT
IAHfY PInK_lOCKS
12" Baby Drum SOnder • Conl'eyOl'molor: 'Ao HP, 11 OV, singllTphoS4l. ~llIlaDle speed 0-15 FPM • [)um surface speed: 2300 FP~ • Mcu. stock dlmensloos: 12' wide x 3W Itlick • Min sIod< Ioogtt e' • Sending draT! $ize: 4' ,:~~
fXTiA LONe; INltID TAW "EXTRA TALL mICE WITH
G0495X
Sooding moIor 1 1~ HP, 110'1, single·phose
• SoJnding belt 3'
.... IlOeQ
• 4 lOW spiral runertleod • Cuttemeod $pIlEI(I: 5350 RPM • Max. f'ObtleIing depth: 111' • ~UX9 cost ~on Ieoca size. 35'l x 1'I,W x 5' H
ONLY t9SOOO
G0453Z " "-
".eu""
"numv
e' x 43* '
weighl~
313100.
I
PROJECTS 30 Limbert-style Arts & Crafts Table 14 Super-simple Shelf/Towel Rack 47 Great Gift! Tlipered Music BOI 56 Router Table and Organizer
66 Desktop Printer Stand 70 Quick Jig: Fuce-ridin' Saddle Jig
TOOLS (,{ MATERIALS 24 4 Ways to Rev-up Your Router Table
26 Pick the Perfect Table-mounted Router 52 Great Substitute Wood Products Theft'! mOf~ to lif~ than oak, pint, alld plywood. Uk! thr~! IIf'W(OmNS, far I.'.ampie.
S4 5 Problem-solving Hand Tools 62 Tool rest Rail-guided (ircular Saws 76 Shop-Proven Products Tilt new Unisaw and more.
SKill BUILDERS 18 Suuess Secrets for Applying Shellac 22 Challenge Skill: Cutting Beveled Tapers 16 Safely Rout Rabbets on Narrow Parts 38 On the (over: Tips from Norm
SO Rout Perfectly Matching Hinge Mortises 59 How to Install it Router-table Insert Plate
DEPARTMENTS 6 Sounding Board
8 Shop Tips 72 Ask WOOD 88 What's Ahead
1 '---
__S",e±P",te",m",b",ec..'",20",O",9_~ _
issue 192
- on the web woodmagazine.com
POST A PROJECT, PICK UP A PRIZE! Bullt a project you're praud ofl Upload pktllres of It to one of
ONLINE PROJECT CONTEST
six project (atf9orle~ at woodmagazine.(om/showdown. If your fellow woodworkers vote it best in that (
FREE VIDEO: TEST YOUR OWN JOINTS You don', need high-tech testing equipmeflt to learn if your joinery methods are sound. WOOD Tube user Todd Clippinger(rlghr) shows a super-simple method at woodrnagalioe.(omilestyoufjoints.
2 BUCKS TO A BETTER SHOP Find downloadable plans for nearly 100 jigs, organizers, aoo other shop helpers, such as the folding work table alright. for only $1.99 eilch. Visit the WOOD Store at woodmagazine.(om/store, and dKk on ~WoodwoJtlng P\ans,~ then ~S2 Tuneup\'-
FOllOW US ON FACEBOOK AND TWITTER Keep up with the WOOD gang by luning into our li~e updatts. Find ·WOODmagazine" on FiKebook and be
facebook.
18 •
twit:t:er 3
!I01BANNIVERSAItr
HOT NEW '·" MACHINES :.
WOODSTOCK
machines are bKM<:I by ~ 2 Year Warranty!
FOR 2009~
INTE R NATIONAL, INC. 1989 2009
f·~"---2-1-·.-5-HP ---B-A--ND S-A-W~~~~~I~~~ SLD) ~~lN~G ~T~AB ~LE ~S~A~W~~·'.##'
I
•
•
~
with Foot Brake ,.. ,.. ,.. ,..
5 HP, 21{1V, single-pha~ THe motor Precision ground cast iror! table Table size: ltW.. W)( 29'h' L Max, cutting height: 14'
,.. (utting capacitylthr~t: 20" ,.. 8ladesize:
165'L('I"-1 ~' W)
,.. Blade speed: 4,600 FPM ,.. Deluxe cast iron fence with extruded aluminum resaw fence attachment
WI770 21"Baodsaw
THC sanding drum motor ,. Variable speed cooV€yor feed rate ,. Sanding drum speed: 1,850 FPM
.. "n
,.. .. ,. ,. ,..
5 HP, 220V, single-phase. TEFC motor Table size with extension wings: 40" W x 47' L Sliding table size: 12'/. W)( 63" L Scoring bladedia.: 31,i' Scoring blade arbor speed: 8,000 RPM ,.. Main blade arbor speed: 4,000 RPM ,. Single lever locking •
renee W1811 10' Sliding Table Saw
FACTORY!
,. 3 HP, 220V, single·phase, 1,725 RPM
..
with Scoring Blade &: Riviag Knif •
MADE I~ ISO tOOl
18" OPEN END WIDE-BELT SANDER
,. Rubber sanding drum dia: 4" ,. Pneumatic belt trocking ,. Spring belt tensioning system
,. 2 steel pressure rollers ,. Amp load meter
VARIABLE SPEED PlANER/MOULDER with Stand ,..
22{lV, ~ngle-phase THC motor
infeed & outfeed extension wings ,.. Cutterhead speed: 7,fYX) RPM
,.. 2 HSS cutterhead knives ,.. Number of cuts per minute: 14,000 ,.. Pedestal mounted control switch with variable speed coottol ,.. Dovetailed way with precision gib adjustments
W I8 12 Planer/Moulder
SPIRAL CUTTERHEAD JOINTERS
SPIRAL CUI'TEIlIIEAD PlANERS with B.w.t-iD Mobile Hue
magnetic safety switch ,. Built-in locking mobile base
2H~
,.. Precision groond cast iron table and
WI8l3 lB" Wide·Belt Sander
,. 3 HP 01 S HP. 2m, Single-phase motol ,. Predsion grooOO cast iron table & extension wlr\9s ,. 2 speed gea r box ,. 2 adjustable bed rollers ,. German-made carbide insert spiral cutlerhead ,. Pedestal mounted thermal ov~load
r
~
witla Par.Uelogr. .. Adjustable Bed. llOV or 220V, single-phase, TEFC motor Precision ground cast iron table German"made carbide Insert spiral cutterhead Quick adjust levers >- large center mounted cast iron fence ~ Pedestal mounted safety switch ~ ,. 8uilt·ln locking mobile base (WI7SSS &W1741S) ,.. ,.. ,. ,..
. . .,- -
~~ .~ .
WI7SSS 6',1 Y.! HP Jointer WI742S IS' Planer W1754S 20' Planer
Wl741S 8",3 HP Jointer W l744S 12', 3 HP Jointer (does not include the mobile basel
VISIT OUR WEBSITE OR CA LL TOLL FREE TO FIND AN AUTHORIZED DEALER NEAR YOU.
11265R
-
woodmagazine.com
September 2009
Vol. 26, No.4
Issue No. 192
EDITOR·IN·CHI(F
BIUKRIER Managing Editor
Deputy Editor DAVE CAMPSELl
MARLEN KEMMET
Art Director
Sffiior De>ign Editor
KARL EHLERS
KEVIN BOYLE ._._-
TedmiqlJe!; Editor 808 WllSClfII Mu l t i m~ia
Tool Ii; Technique! Ed itor BOB HUNTU Mullim~ia
Editor
LUCAS PETERS
Design Editor Jeff MERTZ leN designed and
Mwciate M Oire<;lor GRfGSEUERS Adminislrl~V
Pl'OOLKbon/Offi<:e Man.oger
buil\ this ",ua~rsawn
MARGARET (LOSNER
white oak des!< for hi' wife.
Edilor
CRAIG RUEGSEGGER
Kevin crl"Jted this Ire,lle table
chefT)'
using mortise .... nd·
t
Mlillanl
SHERYl MUNYON
f't1ot09raphm
JASON OONNEUY, scan umE, JAY WILDE
Conlributing Illustrators TIM CAHILL. LORHAJOHNSON, ROXANNE L.MOINE Tedmio:al Comultan~ JEff HALL DOUG HICKS Contrioolill<] Cr~ft\tl1an JIM HEAVEY COf1lributing ProoIread~rs BASS KLEIN, IRA LACHER, JIM SANDERS SUBSCRIBER SERVICE Go la woodmaogazine.com / helJ' Of write ta WOOD magaz ine, P.O. Box lH19, BDOr'le, IA 50037-0439
,
i M.,n,eting Manager AMANO" Adv~rming Ma~r
i
,I
~LHOOT
JACK CHRISTIANSEN
A.:coont hewtive RYAH INTERLANO Direct Respon~ Adwrti>ing R~prc""nla~"" LISA GREENWOOD Assistant TIM BAARDA
Mdrk built this I'Idfnut jt'welry
cabinet for his daughter, Wlwn
ATLANTA: Na\OCi",~<
(Imed, it doIJbles J.\ J night5tand.
Sminels
M imag~r
JEFF STILES Coosum~r M.m:~till<] Direclor TODD BIERLE M\.OC,ate 0;1«101" or Mark~tin<:l·NewS>tand TOM DURING Pl'oduniOl'l Mana~r SANDYWIUIAMS Adve
PUBLISHING GROUP
~resident
JACK GRiFfiN Executiw Viu Pl'epO<'l~ and Travel PATTI FOLlO
I're~ident ~rId
Chief EKe(utiw OtIi<:el STEPHEN M. LACY Chairman of tht Board WILLIAM T.KUR In Mtmoriam E.T. ll\ef41dith II I 1193)-2003) Our subJ(riben list il ocu\ionally made a\'ili lable to '~re4"ully lel
woodm.g.llne.c:om
color. floors, woodwork
hardwood
11m wood, metal Of
fiberglas~ door~. C~lSh~1I T«hnology provides the deep tones of lin oiJ·based stllin with the low odor, fast drying and easy clt'an·up of a water·ba sed stain.
In add ition, the Advanced GtHn Pha$e Resin Dispersian T delicious new (Olors, Ultra Max Wood Stain gives ~ou II great look th at is also good for the environment.
Sounding Board _ OUT bulletin board for letters, comments, and timely updates
nSlplioes new home for jewelry
Thanks for the Index Thank you for reinstating the annual article index in issue 188 (December/ January 2008/2009). That listing of articles has proven so helpful to me over the years. Because I don't have a computer, I'm not able to use your online index to search for articles.
My adult daughter recently asked me to hulld her a jewelry box to replace her fa lling-apart store-bought one. After
thumbing through myoid magazines, she decided upon the Shaker-style valet on page 41 from issue 188 (December! January 2008/2009). I gladly made it
from red oak to match her bedroom set. 1 modified the design slightly, adding wooden drawer glides and a beveled frame around the top for a catch-all. Naturally, she loved it. Thanks for the inspiration! - Ron Dudtl5ton, Hafftord CifY, Ind.
Toy crane proves a big hit with the kids When 1 saw the toy crane project in issue 185 (page
68, September 2008), [ Immediately noticed that its scale matched my G-gauge electric train set and several toy trucks I'd made some time ago. I built the crane, and it
-Elwyn
~It
Radford, III.
Article updates Issue 189 (March 2009) • For the Shop Tip on page 14, the spacer must equal the length of the hinge minus the diameter of the bit, in this case a 1/." spiral bit. hsue 188 (I)cccmber/ January 2008/2009) • Underwriters Laboratories (UL) has moved up the date for manufacturers to comply with i1$ tablesaw riving-knife requirement. As a result, aU tablesaws manufactured after Jan. 31, 2010 must include a riving knife in order to get Ul approvaL
Please work safely
was a resounding hit with kids visiting at Ch[istma .~ tIme. They dove right in and started playing.
In order to show you precise details in photos, we trequef'ltly remove safety guards. In your work,. be sure to use all ~fety
deviCes, as well as wearing vision
and hearing protection.
- WOOD mogoline i!1itoo.
-Mike Eff~, Crofton, Wis.
HOW TO REACH US •
F«~ tdYit;r.
Postyourwoodworl:.ll'lg qu~nions (Joil'll'l1, ftni~h· inlJ. \ools, turninlJ. dust roIlettion, t(c.) 0/1 one r.rt 16 onlinf forums ~t woodll\iguinuomtforumi.
• SubKrlptioll assImncr. To notify usof an addr~11 cllall\l~ or to get htip with )'O~ subscription, ~isit woodmagJzlrw.(omlttrYlct. Or write to WOOD magazine, P.O. So~ 37439. Boon!, IA
• To order p.st ~H and Iftklti: For p.lst isSllt'I of WOOOma~zln~ our ~ issu~, or do....nload~bIe artld~, visit 0Uf onlirn! stOlt at woodma9az1~.(om/stOrt . Some islu~ar~ sold
001.
50037-0419. PIf~ ~ndose)'OUr addN!ili label from a
• To contMt Ivr Hit",: Send your comments viae-mail to woodmail(o:wGOdmlgadnuom; or Wfilt to WOOD m~e. 1716 locust St, LS-2l1, Ik5 Mtlio~ IA 50309.
6
Il(tf}l fN93zin~
issue.
• To find p.I~ "rtidt'S:
Stt our Indtx ~t woodmaguint.(omllndu.
Updates to ~sty published p~ • For an up-Io-
WOOD
m~8l.tne
Scpu.'mtx'r 2009
Shop Tips Helping you work faster, sm arter, and safer
Flawless flutes from a rail-riding router The Federal Bookcase p roject from WOOD!!> magazine issue 131 (March 2001 or woodstore,net/fedbook.html)
inspired me to flute t he columns o n the fireplace sur round J was building for my new house. Because I didn't have a router edge-gUide to m ake the fluting jig in the article, r came up with my own solution shown here. I m ade the entire jig out of material from my scrap bin. I placed the gUide cleats on the bottom so they slide easily along my workpiece. (They can be removed and reattached with screws for different-widt h workpieces.) Steel rods slide easily through the edge-guide sockets on my plu nge router. I t hreaded
Top Shop Tip one end of each with a die, and secu red them to the fluting jig with lock nuts. The router rides along the rods and secures in place with locking screws. I marked the centers of the flutes o n the rod with a felt-tip pen and aligned each mark with the centerline m arked o n my routcr base before routing t he flute. The stop blocks damped to the ends of t he workpiece em ure the flutes are all the same length . The two columns came out perfectly matched and dressed up the fircplacc surro und beautifully. - Jon Norman, Heooerlon, ftxUl
Woodworker Jon Norman has a dream shop. For an auto mechanic, that is. The full complement of mechanic's tools he inherited includes everything from wheel balancers to transmission jacks and take up mmt of hb 30x40' shop. He's carved out a space for his woodworking too ls, though. And he put them to good use finishing the house his uncle helped him build.
For sendi ng this issue's Top Shop Tip, Jon
will receive a Delta 46-460 variable-speed midI-lathe . That sho uld help skew Jon's
shop toward wo od working ag ain!
Top tips earn tools! Tell us how you've solved a workshop stumper. If we print it, you'll get $100 and a copy of 450+ Best-Ever Shop Tips (woodmaga.line.com/450tips). And, if your idea garners Top Shop TIp honors, we'll also reward you with a tool prize worth at least $300 . Send your best ideas, along with photos or drawings and your daytime phone number, to: Shop TIps, WOOD MagaZine, 1716 Loc.ust St" LS-221, Des Moines, IA 50309-3023. Or, by
e-m ail: [email protected] . Include your contact info in the e-mail. Because we try to publish orig inal tips, please send your tips only to WOOD3 magazine . Sorry, submitted materials can't be returned .
continued on f'ilge 10 8
W OOD milOgnlnt
Sept~mb<:r
2009
The acretTo Flawless
Edge
les
With NO .....'··c"'-. How It - Works! co..:v
Shop Tips A hole new way to store loose screws I'm sure I'm not alone in having a large assortment of screws in my shop. Here's how I organized them: I laminated four pieces of V..,.16x16" plywood. Then, I drilled a grid of 3" holes at the drill
press using a hole saw. Finally, I glued a piece of hardboard to the bottom, and once the glue dried, I filled the organizer with screws. Mine fits nicdy into my workbench drawer, keeping the screws close at hand. -/~
IkImtm, Calgary, Alto.
oorl"t need an army of clamps to get the job done; you juSt need the right ones The Kreg Klamp Table"" is the ultimate 'helping hancf around the wOfk shop and You
the ea~ie'St way to get perfectly flush Poclet·SCrf.'w Joiflts, one after another. 1'0" plywood laminated to 3" thkk
VEISITIlE WlBU1lITIOIl
Carriage-bolt clencher If you've ever had a carriage bolt slip
when the square collar tears out the wood grain, here's a ~olutlon for you. Clamp a steel bar or a flat tool wrench
(or a rasp if it's really stubborn) over the bolt head, as shown. The friction on the head gives you enough grip to finish tightening or loosening the nut. -Richard Wood, Applwn, Wis.
cOlllifllled 011 page 12
_.kreUlDDI.CDm 1800.441.8638
10
Magazine's
ONLINE PROJECT CONTEST Announcing the Woodworking Showdown Online Project Contest. Here's your chance to show the world what you do in your shop! Upload your project photos May 4 thru November 30, in one of six categories. There will be one winner for each category with more than $6,700 in prizes!
Two months of voting begins December 1. Everyone can vote daily on project photos to determine the winners.
To learn more about the Woodworking Showdown and to upload your project photos, visit:
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Shop Ti[lS
Transform obstructions Into shelf space Compo\mding the problem of my basement shop being too small, its floor is dotted with jack posts supporting the floor
joists above. But [turned the problem into a solution with this post-mounted tool platform. The collar (A) holds the platform at the preferred height.
Once secured, I rarely. if ever, move it. Clamps (8) and (C) allow the platform to swivel around the post. Tightening the knob on (C) locks it into position on the post. The tool platform itself can swivel on<-1:': you loosen the center hold-down screw. -Jim Murphy, Perth, Ont
.i. @
Tool platform
All parts 'A' plywood; pam A, B, C, and 0 aretwopieces lam inated together.
;.
.. ... -
v."·:W round knob
0=== ... - * l . . .... ... . -.
;d' . .. ' • . - . . - ,.
'I." carriage bolts
5" long
=-.. ._.
-fa
Hi"
-. ,"
""
_"
...
All carriage bolt$ a re Yo . 3'11" e.cept the three S· bolt$,
..
....
,, -'
-.
A--' ,. continued on page 14
12
WOOD magazin e
September 2009
INTRODUCING OUR NEWEST SAW
Go to sawstop.com/wifeapproved and we'll send her a persuasive inlormalion kil, including a OVO thai will close Ihe deal.
Easy-change
chuck-In-a-chuck My d rill press has become much easier to use thanks to a keyless chuck I salvaged from a dead cordless drill. After removing the chuck from the cordless drill, I simply threaded a %",2';"" steel bolt Into the v." keyless chuck and cut off the head. The bolt chucks into my drill press, making bit changes a breeze, especially for small bits. As an added benefit, when I change betwe<:n small and large bits, I don't have to raise and lower the table height to account for the difference in bit length; I simply remove the keyless chuck and insert the longer bit. -Mart Albrecht, Cody, Wyo.
For a
Daily Shop Tip visit woodmagazine.com/tips
Sj1!!p Tips Multl"tasklng tablesaw sled I saw nUll Mulliki n') Shop Tip "s..crifi -
ciaJ insert saves sled's integrity" in the November 2007 issue (no. 180). which
prompted me 10 send in my version, shown here. As w ith Don '~ design, my .<;a(.Tifida l insert prolongs the sled's life by allowing me to replace- the insert when it gets chewed up beyond repair after making bevel or dado ClitS. [ took the idea a step further, however by giving each insert a different job. The one shown here dol"S 45° miters, but J'vt' alw got an insert for crosscuts, one for dadoes, even one for cutting box joints.
YI It 1111 It 16x l'Ac" F.H.
""r,",,,
t-~Y
- William Ktnntdy, 51. httrlburg, Flo,
cQntinl/ed on page 16
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Superior dowel center f inder To find the center on the ends of a dowel, I made my own center· finding tool. shown below. With the dowel resting in the V's, I rotate it against the point of a pendl inserted into the pencil rest. As the dowel turns, the pencil traces a circle centered on the dowel's center. By raising or lowering the pendl r('St, I can dial in dead center on any dowel, hut I find a small circle adequate for drilling or chucking lhe
dowel into my lathe.
Each assortmIInt cantalns (2)'1 x 2" and (2).2 x 2" DrlVllf Bits al\d ~1 and #2 Hand !)rivers, and (50) ~~h of the following sizes: 116 in Y:!", '1/;" and 1y;" lellgths: .8 "~·"1 " "IY.",lW"I~·,2"
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WOOD m lt!loulne
September 2009
May you r clamp exceed your grasp
Eliminate crank-handle crankiness
My hand strengt h is not what it used to be, making it hard to tighten clamps. So I applied the force of my mind to the problem. I simply drilled v." holes in the handles of my clamps and glued in short dowels. Now I've got leverage and all the clamping pressure J need.
My auxtliary drm.press table adds a lot of surface area for better stock support t han the sma ll factory-supplied table. But It's so large, every timE.' I wanted to raise or lower it, 1 had to slide it away {rom the table·e1evation crank in order to turn the handle-frustrating to say the least. I fi xed the problem by replacing the crank with an old
-KMnnh Gibbs, xMIlJburg, Pa.
socket, which I had drilled and tapped to accept a setscrew. The setscrew location corresponds with the fl at part of the crank shaft and locks it into place. Now I simply use a ratchetlng socket wrench to raise or lower thE.' tab lE.' . • -(onc~
Ofti" Siotu City, Iowa
17
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Finishing School
Shellac:
or a centuries-old finish, shellac offers plenty of modern benefits: It dries quickly, doesn't darken with age, produces few odors, and you can repair damage in a jiffy. But its onctime popularity faded for a reason: Fast drying reduces leveling. Also, it suffers a shorter shelf life and takes a back seat to poly's resistance to abraSion, heat, and spills (especIally alcohol). Despite that, shellac beats polyurethane as a rubbed-out finish that can pop the grain on such woods as walnut
F
and mahogany as it leaves a wafrn color. And that's only the start: • A thin wash coat keeps stain from blotching such woods as cherry. • It S('ais resins in pine. • By adding universal colorants, such as Mixol or those used hy paint stores, you create a colorful, semi-transparent finish [PhotoAj. Or mix in alcoholbased dye for a tinted shellac finish.
Choose flakes or premixed Shellac makes such a ver~tile finish partly because you can alter it to fit your needs. Want to deepen wood's natural color? Shellac flakes vary from garnet to orange, amber, blonde, and the mo"tly clear super-blonde. Do you value control or convenience? Mixing shellac from flakes opens up more color optiom, lets you control the thickness of the shellac, and guarantees freshness. Premixed shellac saves time, but it's more limited. For example, premixed Bulls Eye Shellac contalm wax that makes It unusable as a sealer under polyurethane. SealCoat comes de-waxed, but produces thinner coats than Bulls Eye Shellac. (See Sou rces.) 18
I
Mix your own finish
i To mix sheJJac from flakes, first decide
on a concentration (called a cut) matched to the job you're doing, as shown In the charts at right. For example, 3 lbs of shellac flakes in one gallon of denatured alcohol produces a 3-lb cut of shellac (the cut used for premixed shellac). You can thin premixed shellac for different jobs, too. Flake shellac deteriorates about six months after mixing, so make only what YOll need immediately. Flakes dissolve best when ground into powder IPhotoB, page 20], and mixed with a fresh, unopt'noo (:3n of denatured alcohol. Allow the shellac to dissolve overnight; then pOll! the mix through flnc cheesecloth or a paint filter to strain debris and lumps [Photo c:, page 20). Label and date the cut.
shellac color, the more care you need to take because dark. sheilac, like stain, collects in and highlights scratches. A cloth pad makes applying a 1- or }1.1'z-lb cut of shellac nearly foolproof. Each wiped-on coat goes on thinner than a brushed-on 2· or 3·lb cut, so you may need more coats. Also, wiping works best on flat project part surfaces finished separately before assembly because you don't have to worry about finish becoming trapped In corners. To make an applicator pad, wrap a tightly-woven, lint-free fabric, such as an old linen handkerchief or washed
A cut for every job CUT ,/z-Ib
¥o-Ib
Make application easy Prepare the wood for finishing by sanding up to 220 grit. The darker your
l-Ib 11/:-lb 2-lb
USES
SHElLAC
light wash coat fOf controlling blotches Medium wash coat, airbrush sprayer French polishing, touch-up sprayer Wiping, paddinq General finishing, brushing on
, 0' l1f1 Ol
, OZ
3 Ol 40'
Se
.
Customize canned shellac CHANGE IN CUT 3·lb to 2· lb
Adding Mlxol t4 oxide red and '10 red to a quart of SealCoat makes a translucent finish.
ADD THIS TO THIS ALCOHOL SHELLAC 2 parts S pa rts 2 parts 3·lb to l·l b 3 parts 2-lb to l -Ib 1 part 1 part Zlosser premlxcd shcllac equals a 3-pound cut whill! the sealer equals a 2·pound cut.
continucd 011 page 20 WOOD m l g n lnl
Sfoptemb!or 2009
I
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Flnlshlng School T-shirt, around cotton batting or a baH of wool the size of a golf ball. Then pour enough shellac into the inside of the pad that it starts to moisten the outside cover wUhout dripping.
Beneath a light angled to reflect finish flaws, make long strokes across the wood. Wipe outward from a moist edge without going over the same area repeatedly. As the pad dries, replenish it with more shellac. If the pad begins to harden, add alcohol to soften it. After 4S minutes, sand tl1(' first coat lightly using 220 grit. Apply additional coats, but now walt at least an hour between them before sanding. If the pad begins to drag while applying more coats, that's the wet shellac partially dissolving the coat beneath. To minimize that, wipe a strip
on once and move on. Unless you apply too much shellac at once, you won't leave ridges on the work surface from the edges of the pad. Four wiped-on coats should do for most projects.
Brush In a rush After you get the hang of brushing on shellac that dries In minutes, not hours, applying polyurethane will fee l like moving In slow motion. Start with a natural-hrlstle brush. Traditionalists prefer hadger hristle, hut any brush with fine, natural hairs will do. Fine bristles, like those on the brush shown [Photo 0 1, leave a surface that levels within shellac's rapid drying time. If you're a shellac newbie, use a I-lb cut for the sealer coat and a I1h-lb or 2-lb cut for topcoats. Instead of brushing back and forth as with poly, lay down shdlac in one pass. Make long stmkes out from a wet edge. If you see brush strokes on a dried coat, thin the shellac until it levels off before drying. If you miss a spot, keep going and catch it with the next coat. Allow the sealer coat two hours to dry in a well-ventilated area before sanding with 220-grit. Then wait two hours for each topcoat to dry, and sand away mistakes or brush marks.
Take a shine to shellac Before rubbing out several coats of shellac, give the finish at least two days to dry in a well-ventilated area. To begin, level the surface by sanding from 320 grit up through 600 grit using wetl dry sandpaper lubricated with mineral oil to prevent clogging. Clean the
20
[] Grinding flakes to a powder {left) helps shellac dissolve in denatured alcohol, leaving fewer globs on the bottom of the Jar.
FINE HAIRS LEAVE FEWER RIDGES
a brush leaves . gllp-free brush leaves len to sand than synthetlc·bristle paint brushes.
body of this
Allow shellac to dissolve onrnlghl In alcohol; then strain II through cloth or a medlummesh filler to remove lumps and impurities.
surface between grits with mineral spirits and check your progress. For a high-gloss finish, sand up to 1,500 grit. Then polish the surface with an abrasive, such as rottenstone, in mineral oil or an automotive buffing compound (available at auto parts stores) and a stiff-backed felt pad . •
Sources
Premixed shellac:. 8ulls E)'I' St\e11iK (dear Of al1'lbe<) or S.ealCoat. U1S~ CO, D~.com. Available at nome cen~ ~nd hardwar@SlOft!S. Shelll' fllke,. Soper·bIonde('S22.7{W1b),amoo (S10.7OIIb), and 9'lfTl@\('S13.65i1b],Hafdwoodlumber.md More. 866-5S3-.'i833 or hardwoodlumberaoomore.(om. Shell., b'luhc$. Gramercy o~-hair bwshes (2") no.
GT·SHEeAU.20, S40, Tools fOf Working Wood, 800-426-4613 or toolsfOfWOfkingwood.rom.
Call now to order or to receive our information kit including OVO!
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Make Short Work of Long, Beveled Tapers Compound cuts may feel more like geometry than joinery. But our easy-to-make jig eliminates any complex math. evel~ and tapers go together like oil and water if you spend too much time worrying ab<'lut the math. Even aftel you figure all the angles using sophisticated cail'.liatiom, you'll sti ll need to translate t he math into exact saw ~ttings fullowed hy test cuts. Good luck with that. For a no·math approach. USP the si mple jig like the one we created 10 make the be:vded and tapered sides of the Limbert-style table on pagd2.
B
Build a custom tapering Jig Unlike some jigs, you'll tailor t his one to suit your project part sizes. First cut a tapering-Jig base from flat sheet ~toCk, such as medium.density fiberboard (MOP), 8" 10nglo'r ilnd 2' wider t h an the 22
blanks you'll taper. (For t h e 13)(28" pan els Oil t h e Utnb ert-style table, we cut the base 15)(36".) Then, from scrap about !/to" thinner than your test pieces or p roject parts, cut four 2x5" hold· dowm and stopblocks for the ends of the workpiece and a J Ihx24~ stopblock for the long edge. (For other projects, cut t his stopblock 4' shorter than the edge being tapered and b~vded.) Next cut four workpiece blanks and four MDF test blanks v." oversize In width. Mark the outside width of the narrow and wide ends of the prol~ part centered o n one test blank. Now follow the six Simple steps shown In the photos to cut the beveled tapers. For more information on the jig, go to woodmagazinc.com/beveledtaper.
Bevel·cur one edge of the base to 45·. 1 the bevel angle later, if (Vou can necenary.) Then set the Jig base asIde. 3dju ~ t
WOOD
m.gnlne
Septemb.er 2009
~ROCKLER
~
Create With Confidence
Stock up for your next project and
SAVE $10 eenter Centerlhe test blank along the length of 2 3 the ends. Then use II combination square or with the beveled edge ofthe base. Before outside face of II test b lank, and marX
the Jig base, and align the bevel marks
sliding bevel to transfer 45· bevel liol's on the
installing the stopblocks, mark the stopblock
blank ends.
tNlgl!s that will butt against the test bllln k.
, tlUI~e
HOId the long slopblCKk against the test blank edge, and screw it to the jig base. 4 Then add the end stops and hold-downs.
Remove all stops, and turn the blink 5 end for e nd . Align the bevel marks on the ends of the lest blank with the beveled Jig
With the j ig In position ilgainst the rip fence, make the fltst bevel cut on uch lUI blank.
edge. Reattach the long stopblod< against th e beveled edge.
Now see how you did
Reattac:: h the end stops 6 the test blank as before. Then rip the second i with the same end-stop edges against
bevel on each
U~st
blank.
woodmagulne.com
To test the results of your jig set-up, tape together the fou r completed test parts and check for gaps along t he miters. For the Limbert-style table, a 45° angle leaves on ly a tiny gap on the inside corner of the joint that can be filled wit h glue. More important, this angle Crt'att's a tight fit on the outside corners where it matters most. If you see in side corner gaps greater than 1116", decrease the blade tilt by a half degree, tape a ';""-t hlck spacer to the long stop, and recut t he beveled jig edge. Then rip new bevels on each test blank, and repeat until you achieve tight jOints wit h no outSide gaps. Now repeat the jig set-ups, and cut your project parts . •
I I I I I I I I I I
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Since 1954
Wise Bu~s
Rev up your router table start with ill musl-have: ill good fence. It's essential for accuracy. dust collection, and safety. I realiy like this WoodpKkl»s fence because. for $13S. you get everything you need: tall fence plInels, l-slots, II dust port that actually fits my shop vacuum, lew-ling screws to keep the fence square to the table, shims for offs~ Jointing. and II see-through bit gUiilrd.Ke-vin Boyle,
Senior Design Editor
I I
"1 always have extruded aluminum
T-trac k on hand b~ause I build ill ton of Jigs.It'$ SO versatile. And I wouldn't own ill router table without It or combo trICk. bKause they'n! ideal for guidi ng ilnd SHuring these lC(essenes: feather boards, stops, w l ety guards, and ill miter gauge. The (ombo tra<;k {miter U-channel and
T-slot slde-by-sldells perfect because III those accessories work In It. Trust me, buy exu.. lengthS of both-)'Qu'li find yourself using It for a lot more than routing .~
And they appeal to my frugal side: All of the hiudware (miter bars. T· bolts, etc.) comes with this model to use in All those setups- and it stili cosu 11'1$ than buying two single mode ls!oal/I' Campbell, ol'puty Editor
OuaIITandem Feather Boird .• 1407, S3O; Mu tseraft 8-47·683·9200. ml lescrift.com
Jeff Mertz, Otilgn Editor )6' r.r,ac!I. ~71 , $16;
\
32" Combo T·T.ad!Miter Tract.. t98S9. $25:
"F(M' years I used a fixed-base ,outer in my table. and every time I rotated it to adju,! Ihe bit height the power :l.witch rotated 10 a
new spot. I was always fumbling under Ihe table trying to locate th .. t switch. Then I tried this auxiliary power switch, and It was like when someone inl/ented the automatiC bread slicer: Hallelujahl Now I control the power without reaching below the table. I'll n(>Ver own another router table without an auxiliary switch.· • Bob Hunter, Tools 8t Techniques Editor
Sa/tty Powef Tool Switcn. '~09;S. 530; Rockier, 800-279-4441, rocklar.com
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Plan OP-00239 $5.95
Plan DP-00098 $7.95
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Download any of these woodworking plans for the prices listed, or view a larger image, at woodmagazine£Omiplans To have paper plans mailed directly to you (add S3 per plan plus S+H), call toll-free 888-636-4478. Please have your credit card available. WOO909
---_ -_ - .. -_ .. ... .... _- ..._......_----_
Router Clinic
The Perfect Routerfor TableM Is there such a thing? We found three that fit the bill. lthough you can mount nearly any handheld router upsid{' down in a router table, some are hetter suited to this line of duty than others. For example, many routers now sport built~i n lift mechanisms that you crank to ad just bit heights from above the table, as shown at riXht. without removing the router or reaching below the table. These routers typically require an extra hole in th(' insert plate to operate the lift mechanism . But beware: With some of these routers you still have to reach below the tabletop to lock the coliet, negating half the benefit of a lift. H you already have a router you like and don't want to upgrade, you might be able to get the same convenience by installing its moior in a router lift. These units come attached to insert plates with adjustment mechanisms built in, as shown below. Keep in mind, though, that with prices ranging from $175 to $450, a lift m ight cost more than a nt'w router. Router lifts speCify which router models wil l fit, and some require adapters.
A good table -mounted router makes bit changes hassle-free. An angled wrench to hold the sp indle sure helps.
A
You should also look for a router with variable speeds so you can slow it down for large-diameter bits. Another essential feat ure: eledronk s~ed control, which maintains rpm~ when the routing gets tough. A 3-hp motor really hogs away materia l, but a midsize model (Hi to 2lA h p) will get you by if you taker lighter culS. When mounting any router in a table, position it so the variable-speed control will be easy to reach, becau~ this cannot be cont rolled from above. Add an auxiHary power switch to avoid reaching under t he table each time to power the router. Also, be careful to mou nt the ro uter so any above-the-table ad justments won't be covered by t he fe nce during operation, because you Illighl nccd to tweak a bit 's height with t he fence in place . •
Recommended routers We've used a lot of routers over th e years at W()().l)& magazine, Th ese three ran k amo ng the best fo r table routing: Porter-CableIf892, 214 hp, 10,OOO ~23 ,000 rpm, $190, 888 -848-5175, del taportercable.com . • The 89~ fe ilture~ t wo power ~wi tc h es plus a spee.iIfl!l y switch won't a~cide ntall y power up whi le you 're changing b its.
A router 11ft, shown out of the t able, ra l~e s the router fully so you can change bits above the tab le with out ang led wren ches.
Freud *FT3000VCE, 3 hp, 8,OOO- 21,OOOrpm, $350, 800-334 -4107, freudtools.com . • YOll won't bog down thi s rob u.! rOllte r, and the spindle locks from ab ove th e tab le for one-handed bit ~hilng es.
WOOD magaz1ne
September 2009
Everv
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25th
Anniversary Offer
& The Complete
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For the first time ever, you can own every Issue of WOOD magazine from the past 25 years In an easy-to-use, easy-to-search DVD fonnat_
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CRAASMEN
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Limbert-style
Arts~
Crafts Table
Around the turn of the 20th century, Charles Limbert developed a distinctive furniture style. While Inherently Arts &- Crafts, it also used curves and decorative
cutouts. Here's our take on
one of his classics. he beveled edges of this tahle's ba~ let the quartersawn oak ~rai n ex tend rig ht to t he edge on all four faces. Cutting bevels on tapered panels might seem dau nting, but, using pattern s and a lablesaw sled, we'll show you how to cut four identically shaped side:. that come toget her precisely for a stunning appearance from any angle.
T
Pre~are the panels and work the angles Start uy edge-gluing oversize blanks
1
for the sides (A) and shelf (B) IMaterl.
als List./xlge 331. After the glue dries, rip the ~Ides (A) so t he edges are para llel. C ut the shelf to 13- square. Next, m ill a fu: l ~ I Z· blank for the shelf cleats (C), a nd cut the sirelchpcs (D) to size. Tilt your tablesaw blade to 3~ and rlp a bevel on one edge of t h e shelf cleat blank.; then ~et the stretch ers, cleat blank, and shelf asid~.
2
With the tablE'saw blade stl !l tilted
3·, bevel-cuI o ne end of each side (A). Flip the panel over and end fo r end and crosscut the opposite end to make t he
PRO EeT HIGHLIGHTS • Overall dimensions are 20· wide x 20· deep II 28W high. • Materials needed: Quartersawn white oak. WOOD magul_
September 2009
panel 28" long [Drawing laj. Not~: The bevels should be parallel, lIot lIlrgled toward
page 22, to bevel-rip the sides and cut the tapers at the same time.
each other. Without changing the tllt of the arbor, mount a -W dado set on your
A pattern develops
3
1
The openings in each side (A) afC made using a template and a pattern routing bit. To make the template, lay a side (A) outside-face down on a sheet of Yo!" MDF and trace around it. Cut the MDF along the lines. Make two copies of each Side Pattern from the WOOD Patterns. insert. Spray-adhere a top and bottom pattern to the template, aligned with the left edge. Quldr. TIp' Short- • cut to a mirror ' map. The patterns lJ for the right side mount facedown so
tablesaw. Measuring from the low side of the blade, set the hlade height so the highest tooth is Vi' above the table [Drawing 1bl. Set the rip fence to cut a dado 121 }\ ~· from the bottom edge of the panel lDrawings la, 1b). Check your setup with test cuts on scrap; then cut a dado in each side (A).
4
Relnstall a rip or Lnmbination blade
in the tablesaw, and tilt the blade to 4SQ. Use a shop-made jig, as shown on
they mirror the left side. Cut the$e patterns along the solki lines before mounting them to the side [Photo AJ. Draw a line 12W from the bottom edge of the template and align the middle patterns with this mark. Layout the remainder of t he curve, as shown in PhOl0A . "" Drill ~' starter holes In the waste Larea of the template and, using a jigsaw, cut out the opening close to the layout Hnes. Cut the leg profile at the bottom and the notch at the top, taking care to keep the notch centered. Test the fit of a stretcher
II!I OADO IN SIDES ,:,'
DEXPlODED VIEW D, . U ""'~ j
l :::------J. ' "
'r- .1
i
1
".
,' ~
.8 .. I on" F.H. wood screw'---_l
D
-y '" ••
'8 x I on" F.H. wood Krew
3<' bevel
••
101\.-1
00 '""
~.
®
13"
"........ . ..I'l1
~· dado
Wdeep ang led 30
".
12~'
c A
12\1." .8 x 1 \10" F.H. wood !-Crew
-4S 0 beveled edge
30bevel ----'~
".
o n bottom
I m
! '"
Ir"-2-~-'-~ ---'"' -"-~~_ -'- - - ". -~ :-.C~C·-,-o-"ChCi'-Iow :--&-----1 I stretcher, centered --1
STRETCHER \t' countefbofe \II " deep, ceotered
,
.j.>,
'Mo' rounterbore \4" d~p with ¥o." shank hole
countersunk. (entered
~i _. ___ ~~ C~ .. ~"notch in upper stretcher, centered
1 31
~!!!~~~~~~~middle
placing the templ::";"'~::r.;;~:"{~:·~~·~"" blocks. Take light pass.es to prevent chip-out.
lind top patterns. trace along a piece of scrap flexed between tne Jines on the patterns.
(D) in the notch as you go. File and sand to the layout lines.
piece of W·thick scrap in the dado to position the cleat [Photo OJ.
3
Bring all sides to the table
Using double-faced tape, fasten the template to a side (A), aligned with the ends and edgl:':;, and trace the outline of the side [Photo B]. Remove the tern· plate and cut out the waste to within 1116"
of the lines. Reattach the template to the side and, with a pattern bit in your router, remove the remainder of the waste [Photo el. Use a chisel, sanding block, and file to clean up the corners the bit couldn't reach {Shop Tip below], but leave the notches slightly shallow for now. You'll ftle them to final depth after the table Is assembled. RettieVe the blank for the shelf cleats (C) and crosscut the parts to length [Drawing 11. Drill a countersunk shank hole centered on the length of each cleat. Glue the cleats In place, using a
4
preserve the sharp beveled edges. Apply a stain and topcoat to the shelf only. (We used Varathane Gunstock stain, topped with three coats of a wipe-on satin polyurethane.) TO assemble the base, mask off the inside edges of the sides (AlC) next to the bevels, and apply glue IPhoto EI. Stand the sides up, and center the shelf (B) between them. Hold the sides together temporarily with painter'S tape while you apply clamps and strapping tape !Photo FJ. After the glue dries, remove the tape and clamps, flip the table over, and screw the shelf in place IDrawing 11 .
l
Ory-fit the four sides (AlC) with blue painter's tape to check the fit. Make sure the cleats (C) are on opposite sides. Measure the width of the bottom of the opening in the sides, and also between the dadoes, and subtract \4" from each measurement. Use these dimensions to layout the final shape of the shelf (8) [Drawing 2J. Use a fairing stick to draw the arches; then cut the shelf to shape. Sand the shelf to 220 grit, easing the edges of the arches as you do. Reassemble the sides (AlC) with the shelf (8) and check the fit. Disassemble the parts and sand all pieces to 220 grit, including the Inside edges of the cutouts In the sides. Be careful to
3
4
2
Round up the stretchers and top It off
1
Set up a 1ft" dado blade in your lablesaw. Retrieve the stretchers (D) and
ElSHElF
1t-,-
-
- --13" - - - ----j
If you don't have a vise on your bench, try this
when filing the corn ers of th e Distan.:t between .....
cutouts; Clamp
dad~s less~·
a riser block to
13'
your bench, then
clamp the side (A) to the block. This holds the piece securely at a comfortabl e working height and reduces strain on your back.
32
®
"
radius
I
I WOOD mOlgu.lne
September 2009
cut a cEntered half.lap joint in each one [Photo G, Drawing lcj. 0rY-fit the stretchers (0) in the notches in the table base (AlBIC). If the tops of the stretchers sit above the
2
tops of the sides (A), measure the discrepancy (Photo H] and file the notches to the proper depth. Make four copies of the Stretcher Hllf-pattern from the WOOD Putterns. insert and spray-adhere onc to each end of each stretcher (D). Note that
3
the half-lap faces up on one stretcher and down on the other. Cut the ends to shape, and drill the counterbores and shank holes where indicated. Turn the table (AlBIC) upside down on the stretchers and drill countersunk shank holes [Photo I). Sand the stretchers to 220 grit; then screw them in place in the table base. G'Ue up a panel for the top (E). Cut the radius at each corner [Drawing 1l flip the table base (A- D) upside down onto the underside of the top (E). Center the base on the top; then screw the base to the top. Remove the top; sand the base and top to 220 grit. Apply finish, reassemble the table, and display it proudly in your home. •
othe r two, then join th ose assemblies.
4
5
~:~~::-::-:::;::::~~WI;::;
Written by Cr.lg Rueg5eggoer with Je ff MutE Proltct (\<>1;9n: Jeff Mertz illustrAtions: ROllanne l e Mo lne; Lorn_Johnlon
Clamp poulble. Stret ch st rapping t ape around corne rs where clamps won't reach .
Materials List f,"I\'UD
Part
T
'A
'" '"
.-
'S "C sht!If deats
"""
., D
-
~Ilf
W
l
M~tl
".
"",,"
EOO
,,"
'" '" ,.""" "" ." ,." ,."
'"
""
Qt)
E
,•
, ,
E
AIi.b.... ls key. eQO-fdg~Joined QlIartersawn wilile
oa-k. QO-qUilrtersawn wnitewl. Supplies: Spray ad~ double.fiKl!d I.lp@,strapping tApe..lSxl14· flathNo;! wood SC~ (2).18X1 Yt Rilthead
1m
wood screws Black .nd bit: Stadttd dado set, pattern route!" bit.
Meas ure the a mount the stre tche rs (OJ ~it above the sides {A} and remove th is amount from the bottom of the notch.
notches In the sides (AI a nd ~" fl athead wo od screws inlo the stretchers (0),
Cutting Diagram
==-r
wGOdm.lgil.dne.com
Find more Mission and Arts &; Crafts fumlture plans at: woodmagazine.com/ mlsslon
33
-nl'SJ(~~n(JII;1' '. . .IUT PIOJEm MIllE SII'II'lI.
WaIl Shelf & Towel IIou!lh perfectly suited for your bath or IcIkhen, project also can be used to hold quHts IIId
WHAT YO U'll NEED
• Materials: ¥." cheny. W cherry (or a beadboard pane!), two 1" birch dowels. • Blades and BIts: 1" Forstner bit, W rabbeting bit. W straig ht bit, optional W counterslnklcounterbore bit. 34
on't let the curvlng shapes and precisely positioned towel bars fool you. Using only simple tools. readily avallablesupplics from your loca l home center, and the tips we provide.
D
you' ll h ave this project ready to ha ng in a weekend.
Start by cutting the parts
1
Cut the sides (A), shelf (8), and top (C) to size [Materials Ust, page 37].
2
COpy the Shelf Side Pattern in the WOOD Pattern~ imeet. Mount it to W hardboard wit h spray adhesive, li8saw to sh ape. and sand the edges smooth to create a template. Then drill a \t" ho le thro ugh each hole center. Lay the hardboard template on a side
3
(A), with the back edges and bottom ends flush. Trace the te mplate onto the side. lightly hammer a 6d finish nail through t'ach Wi" hole to mark tht' dowel WOOD "'ag ar ln.
~tembef
2009
The few minut"sspent creatlng.l templ.lte make it possib'" to ere"te id@ntielll, mirrored sides (A) with pre
Jigsaw t~ sides (A) just to the waste sid e of th" line you tr.le@dtominlmlzeundingto the line.
Instead of measuring, use the shelf (8) ItMlf to I.lY out the stopped rabbet on the underside 0' 1M top (e).
D EXPLODED VI EW 1<0" stopped rabbet %" deep, on bottom side
•• . .....l\~:::;;."1
o
E
1· eounterborti .til. deep l · d~i H Y.t" 1ong
E
'8xl W FJ-i. wood Krew
lEI SACK DETAIL
t§~ I- ~i~'·~~ I · ~m •
hole «ntcrpoints [Pho t o AI. Place the template, pattern down, on the other side and repeat. JIgsaw the sides (A) to shape [Ph oto BI. (St'~ the Shop Tip right to choose the best blade.) Then sand the profile smooth to the line. (To spee
4
woodmagillln•. com
Pick the right Jigsaw blade As a versatile tool, jigsaws will c.ut through anything from ceramic tite to brass rods, depending on your choice of blade. For dean cuts on gentle curves in hardwood lumber, outfit your jigsaw with a 20-tooth-per-inch (tpi) blade, like the one shown. The blade's narrow body also helps you cut tight curves w ithout binding.
35
until you n!ach the mark on the opposite end. Drill a I" counterbore ~' deep at the nail marks on the sides (A). (We used a Forstner bit. If you use a spade bit, lay the bit tip on the edge of a side to be certain the long center spur won't blow through the opposite face.) With a W rabbeting bit, rout the back etlge of the shelf (B) to accept the back slats (D) [Drawing 11. Mark a centerline on the rabbeted edge of the shelf (8) and on the underside of the top (C). Align the two centerlines and mark the shelf ends on the top (Photo Cj. Then rout a stopped rabbet on the top IPhoto 0 ] and square the corneN; with a chisel. cut two towel bars (E) to length and sand them to 220 grit. If you plan to
5
6 7
B
~~~~*,~!;(~)k'~Pth' (8) 11 outofallgnmentas
you drill,,,,,,,;; screws.
stain the project, stain the towel bars before assembling the shelf.
Assemble the shelf
1
From scrap plyv.'ood, cut two 6><8 W spacers. Clamp the space~ to the sides (A) with the edges and ends flush lPhoto E]. Place the shelf (8) between the sides with the rabbet to the back facing up. Mount the towel bars (E) between the sides, and clamp the assembly. Drill munterbored shank holes for t he shelf (8) screws [Drawing 11 . For the #8 screws, drill ¥l.2' shank holes and ~. pilot holes. Drill counterbores W deep. (See ' Cover up screws with these two accessories" on the next page for a pair of timc"saving tools.) Drill and drive
2
accessory makes quick work of boring holes In the top Ie). both back screws fI~t, then repOSition the clamp to add the front screws. Center the top (C) on the sides (A), and check that the rabbet ends are flush with the Inside faces of the sides. Clamp the top in position. Drill counterOOred shank holes in the top; then drive the screws [Photo Fl . Cut ten 20' -long back slat (D) blanks. If you have a router table, use a straight router bit to rabbet the blanks [Drawing lAJ. If not, rout them freehand with a W rabbeting bit lSkHl BuliderJ. Qufd tip! Swap 19 slats fot' om' ~ pando If you can't find \4'-thick cherry i stock at your local supplier, substitute beadboard plywood. Cut the panel to fit the rabbeted opening in the back, stain
3
4
*'
SKILL BUILDER Rout quick, safe rabbets with this simple Jig Guiding a handheld router along 2"-wide parts to cut 20 rabbets in 10 blanks can turn into a dicey balancing act. However, thj~ simple jig makes repetitive routing a breeze. Segin with a Yox6x28" MDF base. Then add three W-thick MDF pieces-a 4><20' piece beside the workpiece and 4x6" pieces at either end-to capture the back slat (D) blank and support the router base. Insert a blank into the jig recess. Starting at the left end of the jig, rabbet the jig and blank edges, as shown at right. Then turn the blank upside down, and rout a second rabbet. Repeat for the other blanks.
36
WOOD magnlne
september 2009
Cover up screws with these two accessories Counterslnkl
'loft spacer
® Cherry gel stai n {olors pine beadboard plywood without blotching. Nail the back on after finishing the rest of the shelf.
it to match the cherry [Photo GJ, and attach it with W brads. crosscut the back slats (0) to length, then rip the rabbeted edge off the two outside slats. Sand the slats to 220 grit and stain, if desired. Attach one narrower outside slat (D), with the rabbeted edge up, using W brads. Then attach two-thirds of the remaining slats, separating them with a W -thlck spacer [PhotoH]. (A crafts stick will work.) When you get to the last six slats, space them eventy apart within the remaining 5pal~ and nail in place. BUy or make }k"wood plugs W long, and glue them in place over the screws. Cut the plugs flush with a sharp chisel or saw (Photo 1] and sand smooth. Finish-sand parts to 220 grit. Apply stain, if desired, and a dear finish. (We used Minwax no. 607 Cherrywood gel stain to lessen blotching, followed by two coats of wipe-on polyurethane.) .
).i,.'~~,~)::,,~~~~,:,~:;~;~;:~ .Thl,~d",
using a shadow lines and allows for eKpansion.
®
5
6
Pilot-hole bit
'I," plug
Two low-cost drilling accessories help you hide the screws used to assemble this shelf. The W countenink/counterbore bit (Sf(' Sourc:es) drills a counterbore, a countersink for flathead ocrews, and a pi lot hole in one pass to save time
and increase accuracy. To fiJi the counterbore, make plugs in scrap using a plug cutter made for use in handheld drills. Then Saw or pry the plugs loose.
7
8
Counteulnk
saw {Uts plugs flush without marring the surrounding ~u rfa't!!. Then ~mooth them during finish-sanding. Written lly Bob Wihon with Kevin Bu)'li!' rNjed de~igrJ: Roger K"lnd"l 1I1L1ltr~tions, Rou.nn e LeMoine; Lorn_Johnson
A
"'"
B
shelf
C
top
D* back slats
Cutting Diagram
E
o
B
x 7Y~ x 96" Cherry (S.3 bd. ft.)
"Plane or resaw to the thickness lisled in the Materials Ust.
o ~
K 7 Y~
x 96" Cherry (S3 bd. ft)
o ¥o x 3'12 K24' Cherry (.7 bd. ft.) woodmagaIine.(Gm
20'
2"
C
o
o
o
---=
---0 ......Cherry dowe l (2 needed) 1" diam, x 36'
D
2
C
3]\',' towel bars ~Parts Initially ,ut See instructiOns. uUse cherry dowels if avai lable.
A ~
,,' ,.." '''" cc " ,. ,.."" ,.- " l"diam. '" oversire. 2
Materials lley: C-<:herry. B-blrch SLlpplies: fSxl y," flaltlead wood >crews, .16xJ'<' brads. Bits: }\a'~raight bit.~· rabbeting bit. I' ForSlnerbil.
Sources Counter,lnk/ (oLlnurbore bit : _8 cOOJmersink 00. SOJI)oI.06, $7.80,l.I"I' valley, 600-87J.8158 or leeo.-alley.com. PlLlg cutter: Self·centering II.· -diame!erpiug Ultt~r no, 1.'181·0375, $16..05, McfeeIy's< 600-441·7917 or mdce~.
37
Watch FREE videos of our visit with Norm Abram at: woodmagazine.com/ video
38
e's the Elvis of woodworking. And, like Elvis, the world is on a firstname basis with him. Instantly recognizable with his plaid shirt and beard, Norm Abram carries the torth as today's biggest woodworking celebrity. At public appearances, people stand in line for hours to meet Norm and get his auto-
H
. •
graph or photo. Everyone turns to look when he enters the room. But get outside the scope of woodworking and Norm is just a regular guy going about his business. And df:'!';pite
the fame of a television career, he's friendly, modest, and accommooating. He just happens to make his living in
front of a TV camera. "The two shows [The New Yankee Workshop and This Old Hou_~e, both on PBS) have been reaUy good tome," Norm says with a sheepish grin, as though he
doesn't deserve the adulation. "I have desire to be a big celebrity. I enjoy what I do, but I also enjoy my privacy."
no
A star Is discovered In the barn
Thirty years ago, television producer Russ Morash hired ?\~orm, then a private contractor, to build a barn for him. ~He impressed me with his quality work and small scrap pile, ~ Morash recaUs. When he finished, Morash offered him a roLe on Thi_~ Old House, a new show that focused on restoring old homes. "But we didn't just throw him into the show became he had never been on TV before/ Morash Q)'s. "The host would ask him questions and he'd answer. He
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W'OOdmllg _d ne. cOom
Age: 59
Family: Wife (Elise), 1 daug hter, 1 stepson Hometown: Milford, Mass. Educ:atlon: University of Massachusetts (mechanical engineering &: production management) Work history before TV: Construction worker, self-employed general contractor First appearilm;:e on Thil Old HOUle: 1979 First episode of The New Yankee WOl'luhop: 198B
First woodworking tool: Ha ndy Andy child's tool kit First piece of furniture I built: A bookcase for college when I wa5 17 yei:lrs old ProfessIonal Influences: My father, who was i:I ca rpenter Toughest woodworking skills I've learned: Carving, gild ing Hobbles outside woodworking and carpentry: Boating, fishing, travel, cooking
Norm's Favorites:
Norm searc;hes for the best co lor
Furniture style: Shaker, Ea rly American, and grain matc;h for a cherry Arts and Crafts bedside ta b le. Wood species: Cherry, mahogany Furniture finishes: Tung oil, wipe -on polyurethane Hand planes: Low-angle block pla ne, shoulder plane Car: 194B Ford coupe that I restored Sports teams: All Boston teams TV show (that I'm not In): The 50prono5 V.c.tlon spot: Off the beaten path, preferably on or near the water was-and still is-so credible and believable and honest." "When r first started with This Old H{}u~, it was scary," Norm remembers. "But I quickly learned that if I just did what I knew and stopped worrying about the camera that I would be okay. I'm still amazed that I've made a career out of what I enjoy doing." Soon Morash had another idea. uWe were building a Lot of nice Ihlngs In the shop rather than on-site," he says, Hand one day I asked Norm if he could build furniture for a TV show. The public loved It right away." Russ and Norm tho~ht this new show about woodworking might last for three or four years. Little did they know. ~The secret to The New Yankee Workshop, right from the start, is we build real, practical projects that people like," Norm say~.
thing about television, once you create a character It's hard to jump out of it. If I wanted to become anonymous I'd shave my beard and wear a solid color shirt and probably go around unnoticed. But now it's part of who I am." As is his well-worn leather carpenter's tool belt. And don't forget Norm's message about shop safety-most viewers know it by heart- that precedes the use of power tools on every project. The American Academy of Opthalmology recently honored Norm for promoting the usc of safety glasses.
Glad to be In plaid
To be fair, Norm has his detractors. Some say he builds furniture like a i:3rpenter, citing his regular use of pneumatic nailers. Norm admits his roots developed In carpentry, but al~o recugnizes the progress he's made as a furnituremaker. "Certainly my skill level is much higher than when I first started The New
To help build the show's identity, Morash urged Norm to develop a look. "When the show started, Russ said 'Wear plaid shirts, they're good for the camera: That automatically became my trademark. But by and large, beyond television, I don't wear them very frequently. One
''I'm still amazed that I've made a career out of what I enjoy doing." Norm answers his critics
39
"I've always enjoyed what I do. I'm always going to be doing something that revolves around building or woodworking, maybe teaching, maybe learning some more." Yankee Wori:slJop," he says. "'There are
many craftsmen out there who are bet· ter than I am. I see myself as a fairly ordinary woodworker. Uke any craftsman, you want to take some of your early pieces and throw them in the fire-
place; you don't want anyone to see them. But it's your history. It shows how you've progressed at your craft.~ And the brads? Norm points out that there ace more nails in furniture than most people want to admit. uWhen you look at antiques that are a hundred or more years old, they've got a lot of cut nails in them. I think there's a place for them that's not offensive or violates a craftsman's work.~
Norm considers his future After 20 years and hundreds of projects on The New Yankee Workshop, what's
next for Norm? "My wife ~ys I'm never going to retire," he chuckles. ~She likes to joke that I can't walk across the room without accomp!lshingsomething along the way. And I've always enjoyed what I do. I know I'm always going to be doing something that revolves around building or woodworking, maybe teaching, maybe learning some more. I know I don't wanl to be a pitchman, go out and scll product. When asked to ponder his legacy, Norm pauses to consider, as though he's never thought about it before. "I think it's going to be less about what J built and more about what I taught or inspired people to do. I'd like to be thought of as the guy who did a TV show about woodworking, got people of all ages interested in woodworking, and brought them a lot of enjoyment." N
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10 Things You Might Not Know About TIre New Yankee Workshop 1. Norm desig ns and builds each projec t . He does get some help, though, from shop assistant Wade Burcher, who maintains the tools, shop, and grounds, as well as applying SUbsequent coats of finish to projects off·camera. 2. One for you, and o n e for me. Norm builds two of each project, and no more. He keeps one and producer Russ Morash gets the other. OccaSionally, they donate one of the pieces to charity. 3. It really is a two·day show. When Norm says "Well, good morning!" about midway through a show, It a<.."tually does signal the start of a second day. They tape half the show one day, skip a day, and then come back and finish. '" like a day off in between taplngs so, can make any adjustments," he ~ys. .... Norm does not promote tools on the ... how. Yes, most of the tools in The New Yankee Workshop rome from the show'~ major underwriters, Delta and Porter· Cable, but PBS rules reqUire all brand names to be masked over. "I might recommend a type of toot for a job, but never a particular brand. If I usc a tool on the show it means it works well and I like It," Norm says. 5. (Gasp!) Norm does make mIs· take .... Prior to taping an edlsode, Norm spends days fine-tuning his designs and techniques to work out any bugs. "When it comes time to produce the TV show, I know exactly what I'm going to do."
During our visit to Old Sturbridge Village, No rm recorded a p ro moti onal spot for a lon l P8S tel ~vl51on na tio n.
6. Norm's not just a power·toul guy. It only seems thai way because he's trying lO appeal to a mass audience, most of whom me lXlwer tools. In reality, he uses a low-angle block plane and shoulder plane on nearly every project, though they seldom make the cut for the show.
7, Time demands a f ew concessions. For example, Norm has an industrial-sized, wide-belt sander in the shop, but you never see him use it. "We use tools that our viewers have," he explains, "but we work on a production schedule and there are deadlines to meet. It helps me do that.'" 8. He doesn't live in the past. Norm regularly uses a cell phone, digital camera, iPod, and laptop computer. He uses the Internet, as well, for research and shopping. 9. No sponsors, no show. fuo underwriters withdrew their support after the Z008l>('ascn, leaving only longtime supporters Delta and Porter·Cable for 2009. "If they left we'd have to find another major sponsor or get PBS funding, but that 's hard to come by. Otherwise, we'd be done. It's always a good day when Russ says 'We've got underwriting for another year'." 10. The camera add... square footage. Because of Wide-angle camera lenses, the New Yankee Workshop appears larger than it is. In reality, the working part of the shop measures 26x36', about the size of a three·car garage. It's half of a two-story barn that Norm built, but he uses the other half for finishing projects, office space, and storage for tools and accessories. Norm moves most machines around on mobile bases for filming each show.
Benefiting from furniture designs of the past From Us inception. Norm Abram and Producer Russ Morash grounded The New Yankee Workshop In a foundation of
•
traditional furniture styles. At the beginning of each ephcx:le, Norm visits a museum or historical site to see a particular piece or furniture crafted long ago, He takes measurements and photos of the piece, then goes back to his Boston shop and builds a ~lmllaT version. "I'm drawn to functional furn iture
and less to something for art's sake," says Norm. "I look for good proportions, and ask 'What's different about this than the
other projects we've done before? What haven't we shown people before that we could teach them?' And we want something that our viewers want to build,"
Going back to the roots One of f'.;;orm's go-to SPOlS for project
ideas b Old Sturbridge Village, a livi nghistory ]8305 settlement in Sturbridge, Mass. Norm has buUt ... Ix Nm Yankff' projects based on pieces he discovered there, indudlng the butterfly table shown al right. "'We're grateful to museums and places like StuThTidge for allowing us to come in and film these projects," he says. "'Places like thee are our heritage and our resources for discovering the history of fumituremaking and so much more. "To me the anonymous craft.~man {uf a bygone cra] is the ultimate inspiration because the work that he's left behind atl these years later speaks for itself. nhe pieces arej well-made, and they were made without the tools we have today." So what does he look for, and how docs hc start after chOOSing a pie«>? "One of the things I love about lOOking at an antique Is the proportions. The old pieces of furniture just feel right. And I'm not "'0 much interested in making t"xact rt"pltcas as making a plec.:e lmplred by it. When you're looking at antiques, allow yourself the freedom to make slight changes and adapt the design to your own needs."
Norm shows WOOD- mil9il1zine's 80b Hunter 50me ofthe detai1~, su(h as splayed legs, that fasdnated him about this butterfly table at Old Sturbridge Village. of the anglt" YOll shoot bI.'Cause any dhlortion could alter the dimensions or proportions of your project." Norm traces any curves or unusual shapes when he can. With turned features he takes precise measurements of diameters and spacing. "Sometimes I just hold my tape next toa leg and shoot a photo or video of It, and tht!n figure out the measurements back in the shop. It's not critical to get each dimension to the 32nd of an Inch; U's the proportions that I'm looking for." • Always ask permission from the owner or museum staff before approaching the piece. ., hey might provide you with dimensions or other pertinent details. • If you can't get close to the- piece, take photos from multiplC' angles. Then usc nearby objects, such as floorboards, electrical outlets, or stair~, to determine scale. "'Guess at the approximate dimensions,"
Mit's not critical to get em:h dimension tv the 32nd ofan inch; it's the propurtions that I'm Iook.ing (Or.' he says, "and use your photos to maintain the proportions. You really only need a f{'W dimensions to get started." • Ib de-terminI" an apprOximate anglesplayed legs on a table, for examp[eshoot phOlOS of the square standing next to tilt" angled clement. Then estimate the angle back in your shop. • If po~slble•.~h(Jot photos of hard-tosee areas for details, as shown be/ow. • Draw details on graph paper to help you maintain proportion. You can also enlarge photos {or full-size patterns.
Norm's reproduction tips
. If you're interested in reprodUCing an anUque, Norm suggests you bring along a tape measure (standard and fabric), a 6- square, tracing paper, graph-paper sketch book or notebook, and a digital camera or video camera. "The digital camera has become a very valuable tool when you're trying to document an old piece of furnlture. With any camera you have to be careful woodmlO9Uln
41
Norm'slaws for buying and using lumber Nearly four decades of working with wood have taught Norm truths that
apply to most wood-selection scenarios: • Norm typically buys only the wood he neffis for a specific project, most often from a local hardwood dealer that lets him sort through the stacks for choice pieces. "Don't spend a lot of money on a board that's longer than you need," he says. "But if you find a really spectacular piece, even though you might not need it right then, buy it because those boards can be hard to find." • "The biggest mistake people make is they want every board to be perfect. I'll take a piece of wood with a small defect or two and then work around them if the rest of the board Is really good. Even though I'm frugal, J realize there's always going to be some waste." • Visualize where a board wil l fit on your project. If you need to create matching parts, get them from a single board. • Don't begin working the wood as soon as you get It in your shop. Instead, let It sit for a few days to equalize its moisture content with that of your shOp.
'The biggest mistake people make is they want every board to be perfect.· • When edge-gluing tabletops and wide panels, match the color and grain of the face that will show. Forget about the orientation of end-grain growth rings. • Look at both fa0!5 of a board, because one might look much different than the other. You can often hide a lesser-Quality face inside a proje<"t. • Avoid warped boards entirely: You'll waste too much material machining them to size or get only small workpieces from them.
• •
• To maximize prized figured wood, re:saw it into thinner pieces and laminate them onto less-expensive stock . • If possible, get your hands on old, recycled lumber. "Not only is it good enVironmentally, but there's a lot of character in that wood," Norm says. ~And if it's truly old-growth timber, then it's going to have really tight growth rings, so it'll be more stable ewon if a board is two feet wide." . To find Old-growth timher, look for buildings heinR torn down, or simply falling down, and ask the owner or contractor if you can help dispose of the boards. Old barns, warehouses, and docks are good sources. ~We love to get hold of old attic floor boards. They're typically a pretty decent pine with tight growth rings, they don't have a lot of wear, and they're probably not heavily nallcd.~
; d~aned
42
off with a belt sander. That's wh"n a broken-off nail
• Norm cautions that the yield Is typically pretty low with reclaimed wood. It takes more time and muscle to get the lumber into a workable state as compared to new stock. "You have to be careful or you can damage your tools. Expect to find a lot of nailS, loosc knots, grit, and dirt. Even rust left from a nail can dull pia ncr knives or saw blades.~ • Invest in a mt'tal detector (about SI00 to $200) to find metal you can't see. • When cleanlngre<,"yc1ed lumber, avoid bending any cut nails, which can break off in the wood. • Sand old boards with a portable belt sandcr to rcmove surfacc debris and expose obscured nails. An exposed nail could tear costly drum-sander belts. • Saw off the ends and edges of reclaimed stock with a blade you're willing to sacrifice. There's likely grit embedded in those areas. • Ukewise, use an old set of planer and jointer knives for cleaning old stock. Install new knives to machine the wood to final dimensions. • Norm likes to leave nail holes and defects in the wood for character rather than filling or patching them. "What's the sense of using reclaimed lumber and not shOWing part of its history?~ • by Bob H... nt~r Ptlotogfapln by 8r,.n M~".,
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Mahogany and maple blend harmoniously in a box as beautiful as the
id vou know that a music movement playmg m the palm otyour hand is barely audible? Only when mounted to a board docs it resonate loudly enough to fill a room with its tinkling melody. Build a beautiful box like this to hold the movement, and
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the lucky owner enjoys a serenade every time she lifts the figured maple lid. Besides the music movement, the only other hardware you'll need is a pair of
stop hinges that keep the lid propped upright while the music plays. See page 51.
Sources on
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Compose a box
1 2
From W·thick stock, cut a 2%><10" blank for the front (A) and two 2~x7· blanks for the siues (B). USing a lh" straight bit in a tablemounted router, rout a rabhet In the back end of each side (B) [Drawing 1].
47
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DBASIC BOX
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from bottom ~dge
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"'" rabbelS ¥>to deep
I!JHANOLE RECESS TEMPLATE
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USing a !It" straight bit in the router table, rout a lA" groove ;;1&" deep in the front (A), sides (8), and back (C) for the bottom (D) [Drawings 1 and 2J .
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Time for recess
PROJECT HIGHLIGHTS • Overa ll dimensions: 9" wide
deep
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6W
2W high.
• Splines reinforce mitered and butt· jointed corners and provide
contrasting accents. • Open the lid to start the music and reveal the brass movement sheltered in a windowed compartment. • Music movements come in a variety 01 melod ies. Sources on page 53 lists
some choices.
Reset the routcr-tablC" fence to rout thc)t"owlde lid rabbet inside the top edge of the front (A) and sides (8) IDrawings 1, 21. Note that the sides should be mirror images of each other.
3
4
MiteHut both ends of the front (A) so the finished length Is 9" [Dr;!lwlng
1]. Miter-cut the front end of each side (B) so their final lengths are 6Yl. RiP the back (C) to width to match the distance from the bottom edge of a side (11) to the shoulder of the lid rabbet [Drawings 1, 2J. To determine the length of the back, dry-fit the front (A) and sides (B), and hold the miters together with masking tape. Cut the back to length to fit hetwccn the rabbeb in the sides.
S
48
1
To make the recess for the lid handle (l), create a template from Yo!" plywood the same size as the front (A) [Drawing 101]. Cut the notch out of the tcmplate, then usc double-faced tape to fasten the template to the front (A) with the ends and edges flush. ChuCk a \-4" straight bit into youI router; then install a W outsidediameter guide bushing in the base. Ho'~: The bit must be long enough to exti.'nd 1 )1~~ below the router base. Place the template and front (A) assembly, template side up, on a router mat, or use double-sided tape to secure it to your bench. Set the router bit for a h&"-deep cut in the front (A), and lOut around the template notch (Photo AJ. Score the top edge of the front to prevent Chip-out as you rt'move the rem ainder of the waste In the recess [Photo B]. Square up the recess corners with a chisel. TO determine the size of the bottom (D), dry-fit the box and measure the inside dimensions. Add ·'Yt6" to each dimension, and cut the bottom to size from 1A' stock. Sand the inside faces of the front (A), sides (8), back (C), and bottom (D) to 220 grit. Assemble the box {Photo C1. Do not glue the bottom (D) so that It can expand and contract freely.
2
3
4
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After routing a shallow rec~S5, use a crafu knife to score from the edges of the rec~ss down the to p edge otthe front (AI. Routing a recess ",," deep creates a notch by cuttIng through to the rabbet along the top inside face of the front (AI.
I
A blade with an a lternating top bevel (ATB) tooth pattern leaves a V-shaped ridge in the kerf. That results In small gaps between the spline and the bottom of the kerf. To fiK this, plane A ~~=~ or sand a piece 01 scrap so it fits easily , into the kerf. Attach a strip of 150-grit sandpaper to the edge of the scrap, and sand the "V~ naL
El SIOE SECTION VIEW
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sides (B). Slide Into place. SKure the miter Joints with masking tape.
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jig to cut ~·-deep kerfs toward the bottom.
Accentuate the positives
1
To add the contrasting splines, first make a spline-slot Ilg like the one in Photo D. (Down load a free plan for It at
woodmagazlne.comisp1tnellg.)
Clamp
the box In the jig and cut kerh for the splines [Drawing 1]. A rip blade, or a blade with raker teeth, cuts I.:erh with flat battoms. If the kerfs aren't flat, see the Shop rIP aOOw for a solution.
2
P'ane or 'esaw and sand a 1 x 17" maple blank to ftt snugly in the kerfs.
Cut the splines (E) to length from this blank IMaterillls Us" page 51 and Drawing11. Glue a spline Into each kerf, making sure it seats fully against t he bottom
ofthe kerf. For the feet (F), cut a 14xHh 10· blank. Cut the feet to length from the tJlank, and miter-cut two corne~ [Drawing 4J.
3
woodm~azl ne.com
4
Turn the box upside down, and draw ines lW from each corner [PhotoEj. Glue the feet (F) in place- aligned with these marks. After the glue dries, use a flush-cutting saw to trim the excess material from the splines (E) and feet. Sand the splines and feet flush to the box with I SO-grit sandpaper. Cut a handle filler (G) to fit the recess in the front of the box, and glue It In place (Drawings 2, 4].
S
Bevel the sides
1
Make a 12"-long miter-gauge extension from l W -thlck stock and attach it to the miter gauge. Tilt the tablesaw blade S· from vertical, turn on the !law, and raj~ the blade through a blank zero-clearance insert ]Drawing 31. Rabe the blade 2W above the table, and cut a kerf through the extension.
2
use the kerf to help position the box as you bevel the front (A) and hack (C) [Drawing 3]. Remove- most of the waste on the flist pass, then take light passes until the blade cuts just along the lower edge of the foot (f). Remove the miter-gauge extension, and rip an 8- bevel on one or its faces. Reattach the extension to the miter gauge wllh the narrow edge down {Photofl. Bevel the sides (8) ofthe box In the same manner as the front (A) and back (C). Then sand the outside faces of the front, back, and sides to 220 grit.
3
Handle the lid
1
To determine the size of the lid (H). measure from the back edge of the back (C) to the front of the rabbel in the front (A). Subtract \-\," to get the lid width. The length of the lid is ~. Jess
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, /Trim supplied SCI'1!'WS for lid to~· long.
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SKILL than the measurement between the out· side edges of the rabbets in t he sides (8). When ripping the lid to width, bevel the rear edge al 8" to match the bevel on the back of the hox [Or.wlng 41. C.U! the handle (I) to size. Glue it to the lid (H), centered from side to side and flush with the bottom edge of the lid [Drawing "1.
l
3
eu! the hinge mortises [Skill Builder].
Sand a slight chamfer on the rear edge of each mortise to provide clearan~ for the hinge barrel. Drill i /!,· pilot holes in the back (C) and lid (H), and screw the hinges to the box. Check chi.'
length of the SCTewj; beforr! installing them in the lid. If they would poke through the top faa. cut them to length. Before drlv. ing the shortened screws, drive a steel screw into the pilot hole to preth read it, then remove the screw.
50
Create hinge mortises that match perfectly between the lid and box by using a template and a guide bushing in your router. From W plywood, make a template to fit snugly in the rabbets in thl! top of the box (right). Install a guide bushing and a straight bit in your rouler. To create mortises eXactly as deep as the hinge leaf, use the hinges to set the router bit depth (bottom right). Place a leaf under each side of the template. Lower the bit through the template until it (ouches the benchtop;
then lock the height adjustm~mt. Secure the template to the box, and rout the mortises. Center the same temp late on the lid. Tape the template face that faced up on the box against the u nde~ide of the lid. Rout the lid mortises. Square the corners of the four mortises with a chisel.
And now, a little music
0, K). Drill %I"-diameter holes at these
1
locat ions using a brad-paint drill bit. Then countersink each hole to accept the head of a #3 wood screw. Screw the window to the music case, then glue this assembly to the bottom (D) of the box.
Cut a poster board template the same size as the bottom of the music movement. Mark on the template the center of the key and sound holes, and the locations of the mounting screws. Position the template in the ixlx as shown in Photo G. Mark through the template the hole centerpoint". TO prevent chip-out when drilling the holes, support the bottom of the box with a piece of scrap. For the movement we used, we drilled a \.i'-diameter sound hole and a ;nz"-dlameter hole for the key. Drlll slightly oversize holes for the mounting screws to allow for finetuning the position of the movement. A From W -thick stock, rip to finished ·"tWidth the music case fron t and hilck OJ and music case side (K) (Drawing 41. Miter-cut one end of the music case front and back to finished length. Miter-cut both ends of the music case side to a finished length of 3". Cut a small notch in the front 0) to allow the wire on the music movement to pass through. sand the music case front and back U) and side (K) to 220 grit. Then glue the music case together. Use masking tape to clamp the miters, and put a temporary spacer in the open side to keep the assembly square. TO make the window on the music case, fasten a piece: of \.fI"-l hlck clear acrylic to a carrier board to prevent chipping and splitting while l'utting it to size. Cut the acrylic to fit the outside dimensions of the mUSiC case [Drawing 41. Polish the window's edges by buffing with 400-grit wet/dry sandpaper. Place the window on the case, and mark with a felt-tip pen the location for a scrt!w centered on each case piece
2 3
help position the music movement
5
6
Use needle-nose pliers to shilpe thl! mu sic
movement's start/stop wire so music starn
7
Time for the big finish
1
Remuve the hinges and the window on the music case. Sand all parts to 220 grit. Then apply a finish. We sprayed on three coats of an aerosol semigloss lacquer, buffing with 0000 steel wool between coats. JI1stall the music movement in the music case before reinstalling the window. Carefully bend the start/stop wire for the movement so that the movement shuts off when the wire reaches the bottom of the rabbet in the side (8) [Photo H). Reinstall the hInges and lid. Then wind the movement and let the music play. •
2
Written by Craig Ru .. g~ .. gger with Doug Hid.. I'foject desi9n: Je ff Mert% lItu~lr~tiQns:
Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Joh nson
Materials List
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Part
'A 'S C D
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bottom
'E splines 'F f~l G H
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handiefilkM"
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when the lid opens and stops when It CI05e$,
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W
musiccaseside
1-.4 .. 11
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MG
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Cutting Diagram
Mliterilib key: MG-lTklhogany,ML- mapie.
Supplies! Ux l'l" br~>s flathl!ad wood scre-..r.;, tllox \-2" bra»stop hinges. !t"-thick acryli< pl~stiC. mUSiC moverMm.
Blades and bits: RipandcrosS(lA blades. \4" and l'l" straight routerbit5, ~' router9uidebusl1il'l9.~" brad· point drill bit. "" x 5 'l..x 36" Mahoq
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Sources
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Hinges: Bo~ stophin9es(2) no. 70391. $30.99 [pairl Rockier, 800-279-4441. roc~ler.com. Musil; mOVflJlenu: llrahrns'lull~by" no. 3C>45-8; "Amazing Gra(e" no. 30448; ' Silent Night" no. 30446; -P(Kheibel's Canon in DMajor" no. 30591; ' ~ GrNt TIlou Art"' no. 30452, $7.89, Kkx:kit. 8()O..SS6-2548, kioct.it.com. Music ~t>
51
Branching Out:
4 Substitute Wood Products "green" thinking have led to a number of new woods. Here are four of our favorites.
Hardwood: Lyptus
Sheet Goods: Combination Core
The holy-grail quest of the lumber world has long been to find an inexpensive and sustainable alternative to genuine mahogany. The various African and South American sunstitutes that rise to the challenge often be
As manufacturers continue to reduce the thickness of veneer on sheet goods, it becomes easier to accidentally sand thIOugh that thin outer skin. And while hardwood-veneered sheets of medium-density fiberboard (MDF-core) give you smoothness, they're not suitable for applications where rigidity and strength count. Our advice: Take a look at combination-core sheet goods. Marketed variously as Combi Core, Armor Core, Classic Core, and Pro Core, combination-core sheet goods sandwich softwood plies between MDF layers, which are then faced with hardwood veneer. WHY YOU SHOULD TRY IT: O>mbinatian
and pricey as they gain prominence. In steps Lyptus. A eucalyptus hybrid grown in sustalnablegrowth plantations In Brazil and distributed by Weyerhaeuser (800.320.9720, lyptus.wm), Lyptus reaches maturity In about 15 ye3IY---2 to 4 times faster than similar hardwoods in colder climates-keeping Its price low and Its availability high. WHY YOU SHOULD TRY IT: The color of Lyptus ranges from light pink to a deep cherry tone, and it finishes easily. While
Lyptus's hardness, durability, and price are on par with hard maple, Its fine grain rcsembles genuine mahogany. You can even find Lyptus plywood in a variety of thicknesses, colors and core options. WATCH OUT FOR: Splintering. Lyptus splinters easily, so back up your rouUng, cutting, and dcllllng with scrap. (Some woodworkers choose to wear gloves when handling Lyptus to avoid the small splinters.) Like hard maple, Lyptus can be tough on your tools. Use carbide-tipped blades and bits and make sure that they arc sharp to reduce splintering and tear-out. When routing, make multiple passes, removing no more than 'AI" of matcrlal at a time.
In combln1ltlon-coN! sheet goods, smooth MDF rep laces the outermOSl piles, but leaves the Inner piles for rigidity.
Out door Projects: lpe
Eco-sensltlve: Bamboo
Looking for the ultimate, Insect-repellent, rot-resistant wood for your next outdoor project? Take a look at ipe (pronounced EE-pay). Ipe's rich color and unmatched durability have made It the darling of deck construcllon for several years. Lumber retailers Increasingly stock Ipe as dimensioned hardwood. When fin ished properly, ipe makes a striking choice for o utdoor furniture. planters, arbors, and footbrid ges. WHY YOU SHOULD TRY IT: Ipc's durability seems a lmost magical. Naturally resistant to decay, moisture, insects-even fire-it 's so dense that It actually sinks In water. And, though its price runs about twice that of cypress or cedar, with proper treatment, outdoor projects made from Ipt' will long outlive these less-durable woods and may very well outlive you. WATCH OUT FOR: Construction considerations. Ipe's hardness is rough on cutters. Be sure to use sharp, carbide-Upped blades and bits. To avoid surface t:h~k ln g, immediately treat the ends of ipe with a wax-based cndgrain sea ler after cutting it. To mainta in a rich walnut color, apply an annua l treatment of a penetrating oil fin ish containing UV inhibitors such as Penofln (800-736-6346, penoftn.com).
No longer limited to a dietary staple for pandas, bamboo is actually a grass with some pretty amaZing qualities. It grows to harvestablc size in 3-5 years and regrows after cutting. Its stalks can be cut Into strips and laminated to form a surprisingly hard and stable woodlike material. Bamboo Is making its way into all types of applications, from flooring and kitchen countcrlops to sheet goods and decorative banding. WHY YOU SHOULD TRY IT: Manufacturers. such as Totally Bamboo (760-47 1-6600, totallybamboo.com), manipulate the dlstinct yet subtle grain patterns and color, to produce a nearly endless variety of patterns. As the even-toned, knot-free looks of bamboo become morc and more popular, watch for an Increasing number of products and materials made out of this versatile and affordahl~ plant. WATCH OUT FOR: Shredding. Use fine grits when sandlng and shallow cuts when routing to avoid shredding bamboo's fibers. Also, bamboo's porous end grain quickly absorbs all liquidS. Seal surfaces agaimt moiSture with an all fini sh or polyurethane to a\'Oid warping and swelling. •
This ipe chair will retain its beautiful color thanks t o lInflUlI1 re-coatings with I penetratlng-otl flnl~ . woodrTWIgulne. t om
ManufactureB laminate bamboo either horizontally (left) or vertically (right). Heating bamboo carbonizes the ~ond-colored stalks, da rkening them to a caramel ton e.
53
ot every woodworking task calls for a tool with a plug or a battery. Sometimes, the best tool for a job is powered by your own two hands. Pei:k inside tht! WOOD. magaz.lne workshop and you'll see nearly t'very stationary and hand· held power tool Imaginable. But open the dra .....'Cts nearest our workbenches, and you'll find them filled with well-used hand tools ranging from utlllty knives to block planes. Thai's because even the greatest
N
1
most produce excellent results right off the bat. All of them deserve drawer space ncar your workbench.
What's in your shop? Got it favorite must-have hand tool? Tell us about th~ tool and how you use it. Email bob.wllsof'[email protected],orwriretoBob Wilson, WOOD magazine, 1716 locust St" LS-221, Des Molnes,lA 50309-3023.
Bench chisels
Like a trusty pocket knife. you'll reach for a sharp chisel to help with a host of odd jobs. Ours gel a regular workout smoothing the walls of mortises roughed out on a drill press. For this task, you'll want a chisel at least I" wide to pare the walls, as shown at right, and a W or ~. chisel (or the nearest metric equivalent) for the ends. We prefer chisels with beveled edges, which can reach into tight corners or betwe~n hand-cut dovetails. Other use,: Keep a set handy to tweak the fit of all kinds of joints, not just mortise-and-tenons. We also use bench
54
assortment of the best power equipment can't handle ('Very woodworking task. A simple card scraper, for example, has no speed adjustment, no a<:cessorles or attachmenti, and barely even an instruction manual. Hut it can peel off an old flnlsh faster and cleaner than a random-orbit sander, and leaves an almost-burnished smooth surface when used on bare wood. Some of these hand tools (see Sources) require a bit of skill and practice, but
chisels for everything from trimming off tiny bits of glue squeeze-out, to squaring router-rabbeted corners on the backs of hames, to shaving finish flaws from flat faces. Success secret: Tougher steel genera lly costs more money. So buy the best quality you can afford, even if that means settling for the smallest available set o r buying individual chisels as needed. Then learn how to hone a razor's edge on them. To see a free video expla ining a no-fuss sharpening technique, visit woodmagazine.com/sharpenlngvid.
Chisels flatten the walls and square the rou nded corners on this d rilled mortise. A guide clamped to t he workpiece kee ps t he
chisel at a 90· angle. WOOD m agnl....
~t~mber
2009
2
Contour sanding grips
Look around your shop long enough, and you may eventually find some object the right size and shape to usc as a temporary backer for sanding a profile. Instead, skip the search, and get a set of these pliable grips. Their varied contours sand everything from crown molding contours to 1(8" round-overs without altering the profile. A full set includes angled, concave, and rounded shapes.
•
~a~'~t~~"SO~~~lel~~ood'
md
scrapers smooth wildly figured woods without tear-out. On straight-grained wood, they also can eliminate at least one of the coarser sandpaper grits needed to remove tool marks. Use curved or goose-neck scrapers to shear tool marks off gently rounded profiles.
4
Other uses: Use the narrow handle to reach decp into grooves. Or flex the handle against a gentle concave profile in place of a foam sanding pad. Success secret: The small sanding surface area wears quickly, so frequently rewrap the grip with fresh abrasive. Small sanding tools have a way of disappeari ng; keep them organized in a kerfed scrap block, as shown at right.
Other uses: Try removing a defective or damaged clear finish by sanding it away, and you'll quickly discover "corning." That's when finish turns into hard globs that clog sandpaper and mar a surface. A card scraper quickly peels off film finishes-including polyurethane, which resists abrasion, as shown opposite top. If
Foam sanding pads work well on broad (u~s, but contour sanding grips reach into and around tight curves and V·grooves .
necessary. follow up by finish-sanding at 180 or 220 grit, and you're ready to refinish the surface. Success secret: Card scrapers work by planing off wisps of wood (or finish) using a tiny hook along the edge. To get a hook that's just right, see a free video at woodmagazine.com /cardscraper.
Low-angle block plane
You'd need a stack of sandpaper to produce the smooth surfaces ldt by a few strokes from a well-honed block plane. Keep a sharpened one handy to perfect mating fat:es before edge-gluing joints. Other uses: Try a low-angle block plane to cleanly trim proud end grain from a butted corner jOint or through-dovetail joint. Unlike sandpaper, it block plane removes an even amount of wood when chamferlng a sharp edge.
Success secret: Tune up any new plane by first flattening the sole using Hm-, 220-,320-, and 600-grit wet/dry abrasive sheets lubricated with WO-40 on a piece of plate glass. Rub the sole back and forth, rotating It end for end periodically, unt il it's uniformly shiny. Then hone the blade using tips from the sharpening video mentioned earlier. Keep It sharp by storing the plane immediately after use.
With the blade set to remove shavings less than paper thin, a ba~ic block plaM peels away burn marks in a couple strokes.
5 Flush-trim/dovetail saw With no tooth set, these saws help you trim plugs or dowels flush without scarring the surrounding wood. As an add&..l precaution in soft woods, such as pine, first push the exposed plug through a hole in a worn-oul sanding disc, as shown at right. Then sand flat the remaining nub. Othe r uses: At least one saw (see Sou rces) includes two interchangeable blades-one for flush-trimming, and the other with a rigid back for making super-thin kerfs for hand-cut joints, such as dovetails. Success secret: ror flush-cutting, flex the saw body to keep it pressed fi rm ly WoodmIl9I1zln...com
against the wood surface, and cut on the pull stroke. Don't rotate the saw handle a way that angles the teeth enough to dig into the surface . •
In
Sources
Blnch chlseb: Bo~ed sel of 51~ beYel·edgechisels (\4', 1\', ~', ;"', I', '~i bylrwin MarpleHlO. :won, $70, flodler, aoo·27'}-4441. or rodderLOm Contour UoOOln9 pads: Set of15, flO. 513Z82.1O. $14, Lee Vall~ Tools, aoo·87HI158, or leevaHey.com Cant ic:rllpen: Setoftwo BAHCOSwedi:ih scrapers. flO. Cll110 ,$ 18, Woodcraft, 81)0.225-1153, or woodcraft.com Block plilne: W1itas iI+oron Planena.OSm.oI, $BS,l.e1! Valley Tools. FluJh·cuttlng/ d
A disc placed abrasive -si de down around the plug prevents minor saw tooth scratches should you accidentally pivot the blade.
55
Begin with the case
1
Cut the base sides (A) to size [MlterlalsUst. pagr6JJ. Then cut the shelves (B), d ividers (C). base tops (D), and d rawer 5Upports (E) l4" longer than required. DadO and rabbet the ha..e sides (A) a nd d ividers (e) [Drawings 1 and 1al to accept the shelves (8) and ha~e tops (0 ). Qukk rip: Don't rabbd yuur rip
2
fence. Atwcll a "'"·thick sacrifIcial fimce to yOllr rip feria with dvuble-(Uced tape whm rabtxting less thllJf 1" from your rip fence. Cut da do~s in t he upper sh elf (8) to recelve the div iders (e). Rabbet the inside back edge of each side (A) to a
3 4
5
W
hen YOUT router accessories
have scattered around the shop like chips fl ung from a
panel-raising bit, corral them in the drawers and cabinet of this virtually 56
indestructible, easy.to-make router table. You'll gain a rock·solid worksurface. with quick router access to adjust and change bits. Then see page 24 for accessories to make a great table even better,
6
& V
square clamp the subasse mbly.
Em SIDE & DIVIDER DETAIL
r
20
,..,
'
!.
~"
deep
-
.. >~'d~~ ~.
,,
deep
~.det!p
1 , 1/
© locations of
DEXPLODED VIEW
~.
IN"dadoes \ *"deep
@
't"
,
,....
'\to- r.lb~"""'\.
/~v rabbet ~"
; while drawer supports (E) rest in t he other base side (AI.
,I
<1
J fSK1Y2" FHWQod
r8bb4!t
lIo' d~p
,.
1
I
I
LEFT51DE (Inside face shown)
_."., 1
34'11"
I
round-over
J
wraparound hinge
'0'-;::.1
7
Atter the glue dries, glue and insert the bottom shelf (8) and base rai l (H). Temporarily add, but don't glue, the other side (A) 10 align the assembly [Photo 8J wh ile damping. O Attach right-angie clampi ng blocks Orosupport the other d ivider (C). Glue
and Insert the divider into the uppershdf (B) dado. Glue a nd insert the drawer mpports (E) and base lOp (D), followed by the sIde (A) LPhotoCJ . Cut the lower back (F) and upper backs (G) to fit, and set them aside. Drill ¥.!:2- holes through the base tops (0)
9
at the front and back for mounting screws to Install the top.
Now add two simple doors
1
Measure the height and width of the bottom compartment, then cui two doors (I) ~. shorter than the opening 57
D DRAWER
.-
1911:."
~
w,,''', '1:1' deep
14" groove '4" deep
~
'I, from bottom edge Resting the door (1 ) on risers letl you control hing e placement on the ' lise side tAl, Center pilot hol es In the oblong hing e slots to flne ·tun e the door position later.
II RDUTER-TABLE TOP
9 ~ 12" insert
i.:Iminate.
YJ" rabbe-t to match depth of router plate Insert
2 3
0n the blank for the drawer fronts U) and each side (K), cut a drawer
bottom groove where shown. Cut each fro nt (J) Y16' shorter than the drawer opening width. On each drawer front, jigsaw a finger pull and ~and it smooth. Rout 1,ok" round-overs on the inside and outside half-circle edges. Rabbet both ends of each drawer fro nt U) and d ado each drawer side (K) to accept the drawer batk (L). sand all drawer parts (J, K, L, M) to 180 grit. Then glue and assemble them [Drawing 21. and check for square.
".. chamfers routed after assembly
4 S
Top off your router table
1
and ~o· narrower than half the width of the open ing jOrawlng 11. 0n each door (I), cut the finger pull with a jigsaw and sand smooth. Rout W round-overs on the inside and outside edges of the half-circles. Ease the other edges with ]20-grit sandpaper. MOU I1 t the hinges on the door (I) edge opposite the finger pull 2" from the top and bottom. Lay the cabinet on its side and raise the door on risers (ours werc W thiCk) W IX>sltlon it beside the cabinet. Use a '1'i6"-thick spacer between the bottom edge of the door (1) and tht' lower shelf (8) to position the door. Screw the hinges to the case IPhotoOI. Screw a magnetic strike plate to the door where shown and position a
2
3
4
5.
magnetic catch on t he plate. Then close the door, look t hrough the open back, and mark where the magnetic catch touches the underside o f the upper shelf (B). Drill and mount the magnetic catch on the upper shelf. Now turn the cabinet on its opposite side and repeat steps 3 and 4 for the rema ining door.
Make a six-pack of drawers
1
Measure the height of the drawer openings and rip a 38"·long blank ~6" narrower than t he opening height. Cut the drawer sides (K), backs (L), and bottoms (M) to size [Drawing 21.
Cut two tabletops (N) about 11..- oversize [Drawing 3]. Mark the aIea on the lower tabletop where t he router-table insert will mount. Glue, clamp, and screw the tops together, but avoid glue and screws In the router-table h15ert area. Allow the glue to dry overnight, then cut the top to 5lzc. eut the tabletop end trim (0) to match th e top assembly (N) ends. Glue and damp the end trim flush wit h the tabletop and the front and back edges. Then cut the tabletop side trim (P) to fit the WIdth of the top and end trim (N/D). Glue and clamp it flush with the tablelop and end trim. Finish-sand the top assembly (N/O/P) to 180 grit . Cut a sheet of plastic laminate l' oversize for thetopassembly(N/O/P). Adhere it centered on the tabletop. Use a flush-trim ro uter bit to trim the laminate flush with the trim (0, Pl.
2
3
MDF fr~m.
0Y®'®~ C;;;;;;'d:;-:-:';;;;:::ibi.;;':;;;~ ;;;;;;;..;;;;;;;;~ ,N,'O/lP)" the n frame It with MDF strips wide enough to acco mmodate your router base.
o
WIth ~·-thick spacers inside th e MDf frame, rout clockwise through the laminate and upper MDF tabletop (N) in Yo"-deep passes.
MDFframe
, frame comeT0016 remove stoc:k the rabbeting bit can't reach.
Install a router base plate
1
Center the insert plate on the tabletop, and fra me it with MDF strips clamped and double-faced-taped to t he tabletop (Photo EI. Rt!move the insert. Note: The router-table imert W( lISf'd (SU Soul'l'a) has a W-wlde rabbet around the underside edge. If yow insert lacks tl1ls lip, modify the spaw thickness and buslring
diameter to adjust tire dimensions ill the ~lIowing steps. ..... oodmogill.ln .... com
2
bearing num-trim bit
TO leave a Yz"-wlde lip. first cut the table assembly (NIDII') opening I" ~maller than the insert size. To do Ihis, install a Y.!" straight bit and W guide bushing on your router. Secure Hi" -thick, W-wide spacers to the Inside edge of t he MDF frame using double-faced tape. Plunge-rout t hroug h the laminate and top layer of MDF, working dockwi~ around the frame w it h the router bushing against the spacers [Photo F].
rout~d
earlier.
Quldr tip: Use multiple passes. Plunge «iJ rout in 'A"-deep pa_~.re.~ to the maximum lJ length of the bit to amid overtaxing both rtlut£rand bit Remove the oW_thick spacers and the unglued upper layer of the tahletup (N). Using a drill b it with the same radius a~ the router-table insert corners, dri ll one hole through the top at each corner of the routed opening IPhoto Gl. Then, in the framed opening corners.
3
59
o
dri",,'h,,'., with
ill
bearing-gu ided bit
to create ill lip that will accept the InuTt.
Chamfering the ends of th e f@ncedustport(T)helpsitform II tight
seal against the fence front (0) and base {RI.
El ROUTER-TABLE FENCE
_~l6" ~Jfj t -,
~ __ - ., . ..
16~"
5
~)( 3'1>" carriage boll- i drill holes Into the top layer sl1ghtly deeper than the Insert thickness. Note: Oll{ router-table insert hal ~'-radills
romers, so we used a W·dillmeter drill bit. If }'\'JilT insert corner radius exceed.~ #;", drill these holes before routing the top. Remove the MDF frame from the top assembly (N/O/P), turn the top assembly upside down and draw lines
4
between the centers of the holes. Cut out the opening with a pgsaw. With a bottom-bearing flush-trim bit, rout from the table underside to clean up the opening [Photo HJ. Tum the top laminate side up and install a Vz· rabbeting bit set to th~ depth of the insert thickness. Then rout
S 6
a Y2" Iabbet around the top opening
60
[Photo IJ. Clean up missed areas betW('Cn the rabbet and the W holes with a chisel. Quick tJp: L ighten up on your flmd ~ pass. An jnsert that rt!.')ts flush WW, the V Wllter-table top is crucial for smooth table FENCE CLAMP BLANK TOuting. Removt mmt Of the materlo.l for the lip supporting rhe insert in one or two passes, bur make the final pass a light, skimming ~6\4" one ro leaV(' a smooth, unifunn lip. ,.. hole 7Test.fit the insert in the opening. If = j, the fit is too tight, lightly trim the @ '. @ plate on a tablesaw. If the plate is too loose, glue narrow filler strips around the tabletop opening. Rout a 11' chamfer on the top and bottom edges of the trim (0, P); then ease the corners with sandpaper.
m
8
~"'f:""~~ :;2::~ "<1 2~" ~ ~_ -l 3"_~ I ~"
Build a fence for your table
make a 1\i2 ><2 ihx6W blank [Drawing 4111.
1 2
Clean up the edges by cutting the blank to 2W wide. Square both ends, and drill #," holes centered on the blank edge and 1" from each end. Then drill corresponding holes in the router fence base (R) where shown [Drawing 4). Saw the fence clamps (U) to size, and bandsaw notches where shown. Insert a carriage bolt through each clamp block and add the washer and knob. Remove all the hardware, fin ishsand the parts to 180 grit and apply a finish. (We used two coats of wipe-on polyurethane, sanding with 320 grit between coats.) MOUl1t the top assembly (N/O/P) to the base. Then drill and screw the lower back (F) and upper backs (G) to the
Cut the fence front (Q), base (R), and supports (5) to size [Dfawing 4J. G1ue the fence front (Q) to the bast' (Rj. Then add the supports (5) and check for square. C\lt the fence dmt port (Tl to size. Sand a 45 0 chamfer on ooe end of the port to fit against the fence base (R) [Photo J). Then chamfer the top end until the dust port rests flat on the supports (5). Rore a centered 2Y.!:" hole in the fence dust port (T). Glue and clamp the port j n place. Center a plastic dust port [see Sources] on the fence dust port; then drill aIllI screw it in place. 10 make the fence clamps (U), laminate two pieces of W plywood to
3
4
5
base, and check for square. Now reattach the hardware, gather up those long-lost router accessories and get organized . • Written by Bob Wll oon with l eff Mert z Project design: Ku ln Ro yl e IIlultratioru: Roxan ne Le Mol n lt; Lorn a lo h nro n
6
7
8
Materials List
....
Part A
,,~
B'
shelves
_.-
®
©
20"
341'..'
"'~-
.....
l>" 19Yo" 25\4" Yo" 19W
" ""
. ""
"
19W
Mill. Qtr
, " , " , " , BP , "OF , " 2 MDF
j\" 20 ~'
25'14"
Drawers
'" "" '"
24¥.."
r
J.<" 4"'"
5'1,.,."
8P
6
lowe-back
G
upperbac~
H
base rail
doo,
_ ...
'"
Yo" 14~'
R
H
l
0' F
Q
W
C' dividers E' drawer supports
Cutting Diagram
FlPliI~I-lIO~llt
T
drawer fr{)!lIS
15"-
1M,' 12~"
"DF
"
K
drawer~
Y.." 4J'i.·
191'/
P
12
l
drawer bad:s
Y," 3";'. S?I."
P
6
M
dr~wer bottom~
Yo" 5l'11;" 15Yo'
MDf
6
Yo" 2m" 30W
Tabletop
@
~ II:
4S II: 96" Plywood
NH
tabletop
tabletopefldtrlm~'
Q
fencefrorrt
R
""'" "'"
S
fence supports
T fence dust port
u-
fence damps
MDF
2
21W
P
2
3.-
36"
BP
3Y'-
36"
ly,"
,-'" .- ,." " '"
Ill!" 21"<"
2l'1" 4~.·
3"
" , '" , "'" Be
'Parts initia.y cut oversJze See the imtN(t~ Oftaminate two pitt:es to mak~ these p.ar~ See lt1~ iM!ructioM. Mat~rlals k~y: MDF-mffiium·density fiberboard, P popI3I", BP- oir(h plywood. Supplies: .S:..}/" flatood wood !.O"eW~, .SXl Yl'llat· he<>d wood Wew"S, plastic; laminate 24X36", "It" sur ~ (21 '!\x3\f,. Cill"riage bolts W. ;a' washers (2), magM(
catches (2).
Medium...:len~i'y fiberbOilrtl
I
@
•
Blada and bits: '" rcund-OW'r, ]I," straight (with J.<" bushi~~ bottom·beanog flush-trim, chamfer, Yl" r~obet ing bits; 11", 21'>" dMU bits;dado~t.
Sources
IN
':4 II: 7\4 x 96' Popl/lr (5.3 bd. fl.) (2 necd<>d) or resaw 10 the thlckne~s listed in the Material5 U~t.
~f>la~
Router·table Insert. AII·ln-Ooe Router Plate Kit!':lx12') 110. 93lB, S35,MLCS. 800-533-9298, mlaiwoodworking.mm. Univerul dUlt port. Fot atliKhiogd 1),:\" ho~.1.tIe
no. 92031, $7. Redler. 800·279·4441, rockler,com.
3A x S'h ~ 96' Poplar (4 bd. ft.) wDOdmag a ~l n lt.co m
··!W
j'0
No-mortbe hing~s. flat·~ ~*,'st~ing niOO!l hi()c}eS {4j IIO.A03100TG9 PI(, $2.51 eiICh, Woodvrorke~~
liardware. 800· 31!3-o1311, Of wwhardware..:om.
61
..=-.:: -~ ~-= =-'::::
,,",=-~
I'
leek and sexy. smoothly riding a shiny aluminum rail, leaving in its wake not a ttlttered mess, but crisp, clean edges ... one thing Is certa in: This isn't your father's circular saw. Dad, meet the rall-gulded saw-the next generation of portable circula r saw. Rail-guided saws beat other eire saws
S
hands down in four areas: • They cmsscut spllnter.prune veneered plywood as well as or better than a good tablesaw and a top-flight blade. • Cutting any odd angle Is a brt."eze. • When you need to rtart a cut in the middle of a workpiece (a sink cutout comes to mind). a rail-guided saw makes the lob faskr, ~fer, and more accurate than any other method, panly because the zero-clearance edge of the rail shows exactly where the blade will cut. • Finally, hooked to a vacuum, the guards thal surround the blade increase dust-collection efficiency. leaving the floor nearly as clean as the cut. With quality, though, comes cost. The IO...."eSt.prlced saw/rail pairing (Maklta
62
SP6000 with a 6W bladc and 55" rail) will set you back S465; the Festool TS75EQ costs $625 with Its 814" blade and included 75" rail. (Add $125 more for the 55" extension and connectors that let you rip an 8' sheet of plywood.) For about the same pricc, you could Instead buy a good c.:ontractor·style tahl e~w with a clean·cutting blade. so, are raU·guid('d saws worth It? We challenged five machines in a variety of hardwoods, softwoods, and 5heet goods to find out. Here's what we learned.
On cut quality a nd power If you've ever ccoss<:ut oak·veneered ply· wood, you know that the porous graIn makes It dIfficult for ncarly any saw and blade tn Wi cleanly. And the brittle sur· face of melamine·coated partidetxldrd chip5 if you look at it wrong, much less cut it with a power saw. All of the saws delivered impressive cuts [Photo A] on the ~ kee pe[ " workpiece in both materials, thanks to the zerod~arance edge-a sacrificial plastic strip on the tral,;k that you cut the first time
CLEAN CLEAN THESE CUTTING MACHINES
rJ
All five rail'guided saws delivered cabinet-quali t y crosscuts like this In birch-ve neer plywood. WOOD m A9Ukte
~tffilbo:!f
2009
Although all of the saws cut ~vels, Makita provides the widest range (-1~ to 48°) with stops at both 22.5" and 45' (not shown).
CUT HERE· KEEP THE KERF OPEN
DeWalt's antikickback mechanism, engaged by this kn ob, bloc ks backward movement without restricting forward motion on the rail.
you use it. Like a zero-clearance throat insert in your tablesaw, it virtually eliminates tear-out and fUlling. These machines excel at cutting sheet gcxx1s; but could one replace your tablesaw? In 4/4 poplar, tipcuts required some sanding or a light jointer pass before gluing. Cuts made by thC" cordless lJeWalt DC3515KL felt smoothest while those made by the mrded DeWalt DWS520SK needed a bit more attention. Flut in thkk, dense stock (we trleJ. 8/4 hard maple), ripcuts tested the limits of some saws. Although the corded DeWalt and both Festool units displayed ample power to slab off strips of 2"-thlck hard maple, the Makita and battery-powered DeWalt DC351SKL required slower feed speeds, which sometimes resulted In burning on the cut edges. Because of the spring-loaded plunge system, setting cutting depth on these saws isn't as simple as on an ordinary eire saw. Instead of pivoting the base, you must set a depth stop. All operate easily, but we prefer DeWalt's scale that shows cutting depth by the thickness of material you're cutting- the lh" setting, for example, actually projects the blade W below the saw base to account for the rail thickness. On the metric-marked scales on the Festool and Makita saws, wootimaguine.cOfn
you need to set the stop to at least 16mm for the blade to cut completely through 12mm (11:") stock.
Rail detail. make the dlff A slot on the base of each saw fits over a raised gUide rib on the 7'-ish-wide rail, and knobs let YOu dial in the base/rib fit precisely. As a practical matter, you can easily cut pieces as narrow as 4-5 Vi:' (depending on the saw), as long as that rib remaim over tht! workpit.'"l.:e. A little iury-rigging with spacers enables you to work narrower stock. Pliable strips on the bottom of each rail provide enough bite on the workpiece so that, in most cases, the rail slays put without clamps (optional for all saw~). DeWalt's rail, though, didn't feel a~ "gTippy" as the others, and in fact slipped about W' on a 6'-long cut in melamine without d
a lso sport riving
enough to start lifting the base from the rail. Makita combats this with a sliding lock that hooks into a special channel on the guide rib to prevent tipping.
Plunging to perfection A rail-guided saw ellminates most of the danger of making a plunge <.:ut: The hase remains solidly on the rail throughout tht! plunge; and an antikkkback stop, whether built-in (DeWalt. activated by the knob, Photo C) or mounted on the track (Festool), prevents the saw from moving backward during the plunge cut. (Makita recommends mounting a stop on the track, but doesn't offer one, or suggest how to do that.) Index marks on all of the saws show where the back and front of the blade will cut at full plunge IPhoto OJ .
63
Your guide to the rail-guided saws DeWalt DWS520SK, $500 DeWalt DC351SKL (cordle»), $900 !8oth prices Include S9~ rail)
800-433·9258, dewa lt.com
If you plan to do a lot of plunge-cutting in shet't goods, either of these saws~identical except for the power source, motor, and sticker price-with built-in anti kickback stops and intuitive cutting-depth scales (marked in inches)
Is an excellent choice. The depth-stop lock knob tightens easily, butean be tough to unlock, especially If you have limited hand strength. In plywood, even the offcut pieces displayed a nearcabinet-quality edge, minlmlz.lng waste. Unique to DeWalt: Glide strips on the side of the blade guard provide a no-mar surface for cutting flooring along a wall or trimming the bottom of a door without the raii. And you can run the saw along either edge of the rail, so you don't have to turn it end for end to change cutting direction (but we didn't see much benefit to this feature). The cordless DC351SKL cut 34' of inch-thick poplar on a full one-hour charge of its 28-volt lithium-ion battery.
oeWALT OWSS20SK
RAil
SAW
BRAND
PERfORMANCE GRADES (4)
TAmiSCliill5j
MODEL
46"1$80, 102"/$230*
DEWALT
l' FESTOOL
110
2,000--5,200
Ii)!:,
48
Narrower WQ~pj;>,ce5 can be cut using spacers the same thickrwss as stock. 2, (*) Saw and rai l sold separately
2~
-1-48
sY:
* Excellent
B s,
lOA
8
(B) Carbide blade
Good
(C) Clamps
Fair
(R) Rail (5) Speoalty blades
(K) Antikkkback stop
Poor 3. (*) lOr rail c.osts only $100 when purchased In kit with iaW and 59" rail
C,R
6,
(0
Czech Republic.
(G) Germany
(U) United Kingdom
WOOD magulnot
Sf!ptfmoo 2009
Festool TS55EQ (6\14" blade), $500 {Price includes 55" raill
Festool TS75EQ (8'1." blade), $625 (Price includes 75" rail)
888-337-8600, festoolusa.com
Just because something was first doesn't make it best. But in this case, Festool's veteran TS7SEQ outshone the upstarts. Its I3-amp motor tackled 8/4 hard-maple rips without complaint, and it left clean edges in melamine and veneered ply, even on the waste piece. Where blade changes proved a three-handed operation on other saws, Festool's "Fast Fix" system loch both plunge depth and arbor rotation with one flip of a lever. (The detachable cord makes blade changes safer, too.) We do have qUibbles: Is it too much to ask for imperial (inch) depth-af-cut scales instead of metric? And the depth indicator doesn't include the thickneS5 of the rail, so you have to add a couple of millimeters to cut completely through your material. We liked FestooJ's quick-ratcheting clamps, but they're pricey-S38 apiece. The TSSSEQ, a smaller version of the TS75EQ, with a lO-amp motor and a 6W' blade, provides 1}'j6" less thickness capacity than the TS75EQ.
Makita SP6000, $465 (Saw and rail sold separately. This price incl udE! s a 55" rail.) 800-462-5482, makitatools.com
The SP6000 both delighted and disappointed us. We like it for bevel-cutting, because it provides the widest range with stops at 22.5° and 45", and it features a unique lock to keep the saw from rocking off the rail on wide bevel-CUts. For scoring tearout-prone materials, a shallow preset depth ~top projecu the hlade ahout Wi after making this cut, you then release the stop and through-cut at full depth. \Ve found this scoring cut necessary to leave a splinter-free edge on the waste side of the Cut. But the SP6000 lacks features common on the other saws, such as an antlkickback stop for plunge-cub and a riving knife. And in Z"-thick hard maple, we had to slow the feed rate, resulting in burned edges.
7. Prices cUrient at
time of arlkle production and do not include shipping, where applicable. (*) With 55' rail.
woodm~IIIln ... (om
Tops of the track saws A rail-guided saw will never replace a tablesaw, but it sure outperforms any panel saw we've
tried (at a much lower price, too), and doesn't limit you to perpendicular cuts-you'll gel highquality cuts at any angle. OUf Top Tool, the hefty Festool TS75EQ, displayed ample power and preCision in everything from sheet goods to thick hardwoods. If you'll work primarily in sheet goods, and make plunge-cuts at that, we call the lighter-weight DeWalt DWS5Z0SK and Fcstool TS55EQ different but equal. Buy the DeWalt if you value a hetter llepth-of-cut ~ystem more than easy blade changes .•
65
Corral the Clutter
Printer Stand
Create-and organize-space under your computer's printer with this weekend project. First, build a case
1
To make blanks for the bottom a nd top (A), case sides (B), center partition (C), top and bottom trim (D), and shelve." (E), start with ~·-thlck stock. Edge.glue four ~43· panels. (See More Resources, page 69.) After the glue dries, plane the blanks to thick and joint the edges square to the faces. Edge-glue paIrs or bianks together to create two IS"-wide panels [Photo AI. Lay a straight.
*"
edge across each panel at several polms to check for flatness. After the glue dries, ~and or scrape the loint flush i f needed. cut the top and bottom (A) to length
2
from one blank [MAteri als Ust. page
69J. (You'll rip them to width later.) Cut the case sides (8) and center partition (C) to length from the other blank.
66
TO get a perfert gratn match between t he trim p ieces and the top and bot· tom, rip the top trim and bottom trim (D) from the front edge of the top and bottom (A) [Drawing 1]. Mark the mating edge<; so you can glue them back later In the samt' orientation. A Set up a dado blade to matc;h the ~ hickn{'Ss of the panels. Cut \4"-deep dadoes In the top and bottom (A); then lower the blade to cut \ol--deep dadoes In the case sides (8) and center partition (C) [Drawing 1]. Back up the cuts with a follower board to prevent ehlp-out. Then rip these parlS to fina l width. R1P the shelves (E) to finished width [Dr;swing 1[. Dry·assemble the case and cut the shelves to fit snugly between the sides (B) and center partition (C).
3
5
PROJECT HIGHLIGHTS • Overall dimensions: 20W wide II 15~ deep II 9W high. • Partitioned shelves keep paper and envelopE'S handy. • Orawers store ink Of toner cartridge~ and Wlall office supplies out of sight.
Skill Builders • l earn how Lo jOin panels wider than the capacity of your benchlop planer - and make them flat. • This project incorporates many fe atures typically found in large fine·furniture pieces: raised drawer fronts, cootoured feet. and shapely profiled edges.
Mow the workpiece (A) onto
Small clamps keep the ends of the joint lin~ flush . Chedt that the joint is flush along its length as you tighten the large clamps.
left end hits the left-ha nd mark; then rout until the right end hits the right-hand mark.
For a joint Ii i trim (0) exactly as it wn cut for the top and bottom CAl.
D EXPLODED VIEW \4" cove
(
1t17~ 1 ·
Wir~br~
'.
I~
19" -~
0
Yo' rabbet \10" deep
,.I
~14'
~ 1Io" round·over
wit h ill 1',,' shoulder
lIo'rOl.lrxkl\ler
6
with a Yoo' shoulder
use a straight hit In a routcr table to cut \4" rabbets along the back edges of the case
sidcs (B) IDrawing 11. Then rout stopped rabbet .. between the o utside dadoes of the top ami bottom (A) (Photo BI. NOW you can glue the lop trim and bottom trim (D) hack onto t he top and bottom (A) IPhoto C1. Arter the glue d ries, TOut a W cove on the undersid e o f the top (A) along it s ends and front edge (Drawing lJ . Rout a " . round-over with a \16' shoulder on the ends and front edge of t he bottom IDrawlng, ..].
7
woodm.g •• lne.com
ROUTING DETA il
ICI FEET DETAIL (bottom view) Ito"
,
'to"
G
Glue area
D
67
Position the da mps to apply pressure directly across the dadoes Ihal hold the case sides {S) and shelves (EI.
8
FinlSh.sand the case pieces (A-E) to 220 grit. Glut the carcase together [Photo 01, making sure the case sides (B) anu center partition (C) are tight against the back of the trim (D) and that the shelves (E) are flu~h with the front edges
TOdillmpt~h~.~!?!~~!!l~!
glue· up, use strips of pai nter's tape across the miter joint iIInd from corner to comer.
of the case sides (B) and center partition. Check that the assembly Is square. Measure between the- rabbets in the back of the case and cut the back (F) to fit in the recess. Set the back aside for the time being,
9
teillr-out where the biillde nits the cut will cleaned up when beveling the edges.
Now form the feet
1
From W·thick stock, crosscut two 4"-long blank.~ for the back feet (O) [Drawing 1]. Then miter-cut two pairs of 4".long blanks for the front feet (G), Next, make three copies each of the Left and Right Foot Pillttems from the WOOD PalternSfi insert and attach one to each blank with ~pray adhesive. Cut the feet to shape on a SCl'olhaw or ba n d~w, and sand the edges smooth. Quldr TIp! YO'" tfnu In "'"If. Stick two fcct toget her with double-fal-"ed tape and cut the profile In both at o ne time. 0 lue the four mitered feet (G) into two pairs [Photr;t E], When the glue has dried, finish-sand the feet to 220 grit, To attach the front foot as-;emblles to the case, apply glue along the fun length of the front foot, but only to the front 2" of the: perpendicular foot [Drawing 1bJ. Then clamp the front feet to the case, On the back feet, apply glue only to the rearmost 2", and then damp them In place.
E!OAAWER (2 needed)
cur,
2
\'.r'rabbe! Yl' deep 19' bevels
THE EN DS
THE EDGE S
Build a pair of drawers
1
Measure the height .md width of the drawer openings and cut two drawer fronts (H) from *"·thi(:k stock to \oU"'ess Iha n the.\e dimensiom•. Tnt your tablesaw blade to 19" and Insta ll a zero-clearance insert around the blade IMore Resources). W1th a sadd le jig (see page 70) stradd ling the rip fence, set the fence as shown in Drawing 2• . Now b{'wi the {'nds of both drawer fl'Qnts (H) [Photo FJ. Set the saddle jig aside, reset the rip fence [Drawing 2bl, and bevel the top and bottom edges of each drawer front.
2
68
Create the illusion of a gap
drolwer.ldenlical diagonal measurements mean the drawer is square.
Center a hole on ~ach drawer front to accept the screw for the knob [Drawing 2]. Then cut the Y.z" rabbets to accept the drawer sides. Cut the drawer sides (I) and drawer rucks 0) to size [Materials List] . Machine grooves the thickness of the drawer bottoms (K) [Drawing 2]. Then cut dadoes across the drawer sides to accept the drawer backs. Cut the drawer bottoms to finished size and glue up the drawers [Photo G] . Create a {:hamfer along the bottom edge of each drawer, as explained in the Shop Tip at right.
3
4
5
Instead of being suspended on drawer slides or guides, these drawers simply slide along the bottom of the case. YOU'll have a gap above and along each side of the drawer, but not below it. So you have to create the appearance of one. That'$ easy to do by simply sanding Of planing a slight chamfer along the bottom edge of the drawer, as shown at right. Take a few light passes; then slide the drawer into the case. If the ~gapH looks equal on ai! fou r sides of the drawer front, you're done. If not, keep removing mate rial with light passes until the gaps look balanced.
Finish It up
1
finish-sand aU pieces to 220 griti then apply lhe finish. (We used Red Chestnut stain from Varathane, and then applied two coats of a semigloss polyacrylic from Minwax, sanding with 320-grit sandpaper between coats.)
®
2
Attach the brass knobs [Drawing 2}. Then fasten the back (F) to the carcase with #17xl' brads .• Written by Craig Ruegsegger with Kevin Boyh! Project design: Jeff Mert:r. Illustratiof'W ROllann" L"Moln,,; Lo.-na Johnson
Cutting Diagram
Materials List
ri' ~ Wi! 'fu
Case
I
10
SL
,.)( 51'1)( 96" Oa~ (4 bd. ftJ
1m
'Plane or res~w to Ihe thicmess listed in the Materl.als lIsl.
k -1
A' B'
c·
' · ... '· lIlO ', Il l
"""'"""" """ celller
partition
"m
E'
'ihel~
F
b;od
G
f~'
Orawen
517)( 96' Oak (4 bd. ft.) (2 needed) H
H
.,
*x SV; ,,96" Oak (4 bd. ft.)
W
L
,,"
20Y.!'
.-'" "" '" ,.'" '" '" '" '" ". "" '"
W
Th'
W
4"
0
, , , 2
T
D' boo "'""""
~x
-
H fronlS
K botloms
!oMI Ql )
B¥.O
20Y.!"
w 0
13b"
ro
Th"
oe
,
~.
3~"
8'tio'
0
Y.!'
3~'
B~'
0
4
Y.!"
3~'
6ho"
0
1
\4'
B%."
11\.1"
01'
2
'Pam initially"'t rHfIlizI!. 'iH tM instruCtionl.
MORE RESOURCES
FREE VIDEOS . -Zero-Clearance Insert" at woodmag.uine.oonvUivideo • "GtuingUpFiat Panel\"' at woodmagan.comfpanels
Y'1t 24 It 14" Oak plywood
woodmaga:r.lne.tom
Materiall key:
EO-ed~9Iuedoak,O-oak,
OP--oak
plywood. Supplies: SpraV adh~we, ~17xl' wire bradt
81* altd IHts: Staddadoset; ~· Cl:he.*" rouodover,and~' straight
router bits..
Source knobs: I" brass knobs (2)1'10. 36467, $4.69, Rockier, S
69
Quick & E-IDJjg
Saddle Jig Not just a one-trick pony, this fence sadd le rides to your rescue when balancing tall pieces on the tablesaw. unning a tall workpiece against the rip fence of a tablesaw can be an awkward and dangerous operation. The piece wants to tip in just about every direction. This sliding saddle jig solves that problem. A workpiece damped to the jig against the stop can't shift as it moves past the blade. The tall fence and stop steady lanky workpieces for end-grain cut.~ , such as when beveling the ends of the drawer fronts for the printer stand on page 66, or when cutting tenons and open mortises for bridle jOints, as shown in the photo at right. As a bonus, the stop backs up the workpiece to reduce Chip-out. Build the jig to fit the width and height of your saw's rip fence. When measuring the height, make sure you take into account any bolt heads that may extend above the top surface of the fence. Assemble the stop, tall fence, and bridge first. (Use brass screws, not glue, on the stop so you can replace it as it gets chewed up.) Before screwing the short fence to the bridge, put a playing card between the short fen<.:e and the rip fence to ensure a smooth· sliding fit. When using the jig, the workpiece should be clamped in place, as shown in the photo. Gu ide the jig with both hands, pressing down to the table and against the blade side of the rip fence. By gripping the workpiece at the top of the tall fence, your hand stavs well out of the path of the blad~ .•
R
70
-- .. <
8"
TALL
FENCE
'\ \
#8~l\1l·F.H.
wood screw
Locate bra>~
screws fur stop above h lghe~t blade setting.
I
k Width of _
I rip fence .....,
WOOD m"g",:r.In.,
S~plember
2009
•
~p:lg
or email: WoodcraflFranchiseOwoodcraflcom
"When I think about owning my own business ... When woodworking is your passion, and owning your own business is your goal, Woodcraft can help you take your skill and expertise to the retail level.
... I think of Woodcraft"
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sales@epiloglase,.com
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batween l IT 10 1 3.'16' 23 Ga Pina. AI80 avail.DIe as a kit P830K indudlog 112', 5/8", 314', 1',
t 3116" 23 gauge piruI fol
~ I .
Staplers U630 &
$69 99
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Us- 22 G8 318' Crown
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U630 $39 " U630L $49 "
FACTORY Jla;OI'IOIT1ONW TOOU ME AUOAv .... L..UU
www.TooIOrblt.com G~ '10'" woodworkln~
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Ask WOOD
HAVE A QUESTION? For an answer to your woodwork ing question, write to ASK WOOD, 1716 Locust St .• LS·221, Des Moines, IA 50309·3023 or e-mail usat askwood@woodmaga:l:ine.com. For immediate feedback from your fellow woodworkers, post your questions on one of o ur woodwo rking forums at woodmagazine.comtforums.
Answers to your questions from letters, e-mails, and WOOD Online·
Safety-fying the shop
Q
. llm let'lving on a trip and I'm worried that my kids • might hurt th@mselvesplayingintheshop_Could you give me some suggestions for quickly securing my garage shop? Pal Smith, Surry, Vo.
A
_ Here arc a few tips for child-proofing your shop, Pat. • First, clean up. Put away all portable power tools that can be stored and tidy up the floor to remove any tripping hazards. Next, unplug all power tools and secure the plugs. The simplest way to do this is with small, inexpensive
luggage locks through the plug, shown right. Finally, remove all blades, bits, and knives from tools and store them in locked cabinets.
And have a quick talk reminding your family to use caution in the garage. When you return from your trip, follow through with a more thorough shop safety education. Who knows? What starts as a lecture in woodworking safety might become a family hobby.
Q.
The straight scoop on wood grain Your plans fortne Cninese Checker Board in the . October 2008 issue (no. 186) say to bandsaw the drawer opening out of the front, but you obviously didn't do it that way because the grain pattern of the drawer matches. Tell us what you really did.
A•
-Gl'Ofge Long, San Francisco
George, your critique Is actually a compliment to our • builders' ability to choose grain in projects. In this case, we cut the drawer front from the end of the board directly adjacent to the game board face, as shown below.
Good grain selection begins at your hardwood dea ler. Take your cutlist along when you choose your stOCk, but rather than simply choosing boards to use as little stock as poSSible, select boards with an eye toward compatible grain patterns and matching wood tones. In the case of the Chinese Checker board drawer front, straight-grained oak made the task of aligning the grain easier. If you prefer cathedral grain and stH! want it to match, cut the drawer front from the game board face, as shown bottom, at your tablesaw and glue the three front parts back together. Be sure to account for the blade kerf when sizing the game board face blank.
Straight Grain
~-------
Cathedral Grain
1.Ripfirst
2. CrolScut drawlr front 3. Glul bottom strips back totop
72
WOOD m.gnlne
September 1009
What to do when spring back springs
as
lOJA~ x 4~
. 7,000 RPM o;pindle Rpeed. • Each spindle is powered by its own motor • 1l-{:i2 FPM variable feed speed • See-through top S"UUM for viewing cutterheads III action • Compact machine dimen!!ions:
For th is exam ple, we used V? strips to get sig nifican t springback. Wl1ere the shape of
cur ves is ( ritical, use Yo. or thinn er st rips.
54~x42Wx47lh~
Q•
The glue-ups for the curved arms on my . Morris chair seemed to go well, but when I took t hem out ofth€! forms, there was spring back. I used Titebond III and 'Ia"-thick strips of quartersawn white oak. Should I be doing something differently? -Peter 8rad5haw, Doral, Flo.
A•
You could try epoxies and plastic resin glues that are . stiffer than typical wood glues, Peter. But like you, we reach for plain, yellow glue for our cold-bent laminations because it's cheap, easy-to-use, and readily available. You're also on track with the Vs'-thick strips. Just take a cue from your glue-up and relax a littlc. Don't swcat some spriogback in your Morris chair arms, which will be firmly screwed in place. When you can't count on fasteners to pull the part to the corroct curve, create your bent laminations first. Then, springback or no, build the rest of the project around the resulting curve_
Forrest Blades For bLIildlng cabinets and fine
tumlture, nothing beats Forrest saw blades. Craftsmen appreciate the way our blades de li~et smooth, quiet cuts witho
tearoLJts. They know our unique grade C-4 micrograin carbide, proprietary manufactlJring proctlSS, and hand straightening produce
exceptional results. In fact, independent tests rate lIS #1 for rip cuts and crosscuts. ·From tile first cut 0<"1. I re$Zed thai this blade was J balgain al any price.1 Nothing else I have aJls c.omp8fSbIy. • calv~ Brodie, Spanaway, WA
Forrest Quality Shows WoodworiI.er II -Best rated, allpurpose btade lor rips and crosscuts. Chop Master - Perfect fO( tight, perfectly cut miter ioints wilt10ut splinters.
continued on page 74 woodm llg ulne.com
73
Older from any Forrest dealer or rotaiter, online, or by calling directly. Our blades are manutactuftld in 1m;, U.S.A. and backed by our 3Q-.day. maney-back 91wantee.
... ..
__a-",_ ~
,
www.ForrestBlades.com
1-&:10-73-3-7111 (In NJ, cal 973-473-5238)
Ask WOOD
Abrasives & AclhE.si"es
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Rail Kitchen OIQ(lnlu .n • Shell bracke ts and much mole .. • Fo$Ienef1 •
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Request a FREE catalog - Promofion '850
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IHardware woodworkershardware.com or 1-800-383-0130 Solid wood
.........
Solid wood: What's In a name?
Q
_ I've heard several manufacturers tout their
• products as solid wood, butthey sometimes use
plywood panels for the case back. Can solid wood furniture ( ontain plywood? -Lynnt J. Arcnibald. DtKa/b, III.
A
_ Since the Federal Trade Commission stopped regulat. • ing furniture labeling in 2000, Lynne, terms found on those labels (such as "all wood," "wood products," and uengineered wood~) make it difficult for consumers to know exactly what they're buying. Jaclyn Hlrschhaut, spokeswoman for the American Home Furnishings Alliance helped us sort it out. She tells us that the term "solid wood" only applies to furniture or cabinets constructed of solid wood. Add a veneered surface or engineered woods, such as plywood or MDF, and the designation changes to "solid wd with veneers" or "all wood" construction. Despite the negative connotation It has picked up from mass-produced knockdown furniture, plywo
74
WOOD m agul ne
S-eptember 2009
Choked up over
smoke smell
Q.
We bought a hardwood bed . from the classifieds, but didn't realize that it had been in a smoker's house. When it arrived home, the cigarette smell filled tne room. How do we get rid of the stink?
A•
-Ryall Johnson, Ankeny, Iowa
Fallllr..s Have Saved Up To 50% On HeatfIIg Costs And never hove 10 buy fueI- .n,11"', ker...ne, wood wIIIo 1Iyft-5iI:
Ryan, we posed your queStion e ta Scott Cierzan, president of First Call Construction of Ankeny, Iowa, specialists in firC' and smoke
,,,,1IMIIts
• hI"... fnt-~lICIfrte
• Uleti. . _ltflly. IIUl lyiutMlrlKh • SIll, tOfllllett ptCICl of Mil
• o.n, .. ltnIS, .,rirtMwttGII, sol, • U.l.!isld
• h'HI~-IIIIlC!)"IOIM
• rwIIbIt 1IlOV) or ptI1IIOII.-! mOYI • Whcili llotlw Mali" or smgie room
the surfal-"e with water and a gentle soap, such a~ Murrhy'~ Oil Soap. Then dry thoroughly with doth or
If the smell persists after thc surface cleaning, it means the smoke molecules have sunk into the pores of the w(xxl OXldl21ng those molecules reduces them to odorless compounds. Scott's company uses an ozone generator, but for a home remedy, some quality time in the garage with a fan will suffice. As a last resort, if a trace of smell remaillS, you can try scaling it into the furn iture by adding a couple coats of dear finish. This traps the smell where the molecules will break down and dissipate undetected . • 75
lIIJuin!
• w .... C1St wiIh tt,dft.-Si!
damage rcpair. ~For hard surfaces/ he says, "you'd be smprised what a thorough surface cleaning will do." Scott's advice; Completely wipe down
paper towels.
&YO,
Hydro-Sil is a high perlormaoce lfldividual room IHtamg $)'$trem rhat tan $(Iyt)"OU hund~ of doIlal"$ in home healing CO$b by replocing old t:nd ineffi<:ient heating. It can replo<:e or supplement your eMctric heat, Q
hecltef i$ a sealed
,Mo,l".
mvon
APfllo"
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About our product tests
These woodworking wares passed our shop trials
stars for perfoJm.llXe make the final cut and appear in this ~cti
We test hundreds of tool> and .!(
New Unisaw makes the cut in our shop t's not often an industry icon gets a complete makeover, but that's what Delta did with its new version of the Unisaw cabinet-style tablesaw. The result: a greatly improved machine. With changes hoth cosmetic and functional, Delta is banking that woodworkers-professional and hobbyist-will pay a premium for a saw assembled in Jackson, Tenn., of primarily U.s.-made components. This Unisaw has a massive one-piece Gist-iron trunnion that virtually eliminates alignment woes and vibration by ridding the saw of some of the moving parts of the old assembly. On the front of the saw you'll find both the blade-height and bevel-angle handwheels, a large, easy-to-read bevel gauge with half-degree markings, and bevel-stop adjustments. The Unisaw's quick-release blade guard system, which includes a threeposition riving knife, anti-kickback pawls, and two-piece guard, is the Ix'st I've tested . Why? Because Delta engineers put the release lever outside the cabinet under the fence rail, as shown below, so you can remove or adjust the riving knife without removing the throat plate and Without tools. They aiso made changing blades easi(>J, thanks to a 5"-wide throat opening (my knuckles thank you, Delta engineers), easy-to-reach arbor lock, large angled wrench, and one-piece arbor nut and washer. I Installed a :J!.dado stack on the arbor and still got the nut tightened fully. Delta also includes a nut without the washer, which I used for dado setups up to 1" wide. And I haw to give Delta credit for Its factory-supplied, 50-tooth, 10" combi-
I
nation blade, shown below. It cuts well in all materials without burning or tear-out, although it ever so slightly scores edge- and end-grain. More findings from our testing of a 3-hp model: • Rip fence_ Delta now ships a Biesemeyer T-~quare rip fence with each Unisaw, and it features an improved handle and lnck. Dialing In the right combination of firm lock and easy Sideways travel while still keeping it square to the blade proved fussy during set up, but once there it's like a rock. • Miter gauge. The induded miter gauge is a step up from what comes with most tablesaws these days, featuring an 18 1!l" har with T-slot
washer, a soft-grip handle, and nine adjustable angie detents. But the pointer sits too far bal.:k from the scale to rely on it for dead-on predsion with non-detent angles. • Dust cont r ol. Although the new machine has dust-collection improvements, it's not perfect. It reqUires at least a I lil-hp unit to maintain airflow necessary to evacuate liust. The saw has a 5" dust port, and comes with a 4" reducer. As you might expect, it cleared dust better using the S' hose. • Zero-clearance help. This is minor, but I appreciate that the blade drops fully below the bottom of the throat plate, so J didn't have to make any relief cuts prior to cutting the kerf in a shop-made zero-clearance insert. I wish all tahlesaw~ had this feature. - Tnted by Ik>b Hunter, Too/s and Tochniquel Editor, orld tn-e rest of the WOOD ~ magazitlf! staff
rt
Delta Unisaw 10 tablesaw
****
f>ertormance .... Price 1t36-lH6 (3 hp, 36' rip cap.) S2,875 #36.lJ52 (3 hp, 52' rip cap.) S3,OOO ~36·L552 (5 hp, 52' rip cap.) J3,200 Delta Mactlinery 800-223-7278; deltaportercable.com 76
Clean dusty air rather than breathing It Not having used an air-filtration system in my basement shop before, I was amazed at how much dust Powermatic's
'WW'W.logosol.com
PM1200
collected on its outer filter after only 10 hours
of normal shop use. That jolted me to he mort' conscious of the air 1 was breathing.
To challenge the PM1200, I wore a respirator and blasted everything in my shop with jets of compressed-.air, stirring up a smog-quality haze. I set the cleaner on its highest of three speeds (nearly 1,200 dm) and left for an hour. When 1 returned the air looked crystal dear again, aild very little dust had settled onto my tools. Rated to trap as much as 85 percent of 1-micron-sized dust particles, this air cleaner makes me confident I can breathe easier in my shop. The remote-controlled PM1200 has a built-in timer that you set for up to nine hour~. -Ttsltd by Bob Wi/jon, Techniquts Editor
Air Rltration System, fPM 1200 I'i
***** 1470
Pricl! POWI!Il11~tjc
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Unless I'm applying a fast-dry finish like lacquer, . .- ... things come to a grinding halt when I have to wait for one side of a project to dry before coating the other. For slower-drying finishcs, such as pOlyurethanc, Painter's Pyramids allow mt' to apply flnbh (or paint) on the less-seen side first, wait a couple of minutes, and then simply flip it over and do the "good" side while the first is still wet. These handy plastic gizmos leave only a pinholeslzcd dimple that's easy to rub out. They're surprisingly stout for their size and don't tip over when I place something on them. When not being used they nest neatly out of the way. -TtSf~
by Kevin 8oyle, Senior De1i9n Editor
hinm"l hnmi!h
*****
PerformanCI!
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Painter's ?yramid 804-426-4366; painterspyramid.com
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continued on /luxe 78
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M.t....... EatLnuotl", Caleulltor
the to p teeth cut the tOP surface on the downstroke and bottom tccth cut the bottom surface on the upstroke--eli minating tea r~out on stock thicker than ¥i6". I compared them head-to-head with the best jigsaw blades I could find, and the Starrett blades cleaned up in Ted oak, pine, Baltic birch plywood, and even fin icky melami ne-coated particleboard. Uual-Cut blades come in twopacks, with the standard blades (BU3DC) designed for cutting stock from W to 1.1/16" thick, and the
With the Malnl Estimator you carl quickly and easily celwllte YardI, Feet. Ir>ehoes. Fractions and Mfltlltl'S and material a.ts and alkmllflO85 to get ex&CIty 1M malllriabi you need. PrW6!1t &6~maUng &ml(S and save
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True to Machine Art ~sthf'tjcs, the sleek brushed stainless steel case is dear on tile back, ullowillS a peck at the inlier workings.
dJstinctive, retro look of a jumping display (not an actual jumping complication). The stainless steel 1 1 /2~ case is complemented with a black alligator-e mbossed leathe r band. 'Ibc band is 9 1/2" long and will fit a 7-8 l/Z" wrist. Try the Stauer 1930s Dasl1tronlc Watch for 30 days and if you are not
receiving compliments, please return the watch for a full refund of the purchase price. If you have an appreciation for classic design with precision accuracy, thl:' 1930.) Va.~htrU'lk Watch is built fOf you. This watch is a limited edition, so please act quickly. OUf last two limited edition watches arc totally sold out!
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UNITED GILSONITE LABORATORIES FiOOhing Touc:t1 Brochure - guide for best results usfig ZAR Wood StainlFinishes. Circle No. 128.
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FORREST MFG. CO., INC. Top quality blades and dados lor an ultra smooth finish.
Circle No. 208.
MAO SHAN MACHINERY' OEM & OOM for all the woodworking machin&y. Clrcl.
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Circle No. 647. MCfEELY'STM yOU" primary source lor best-of-Class screws. fasteners, tools. woodwor1
FREUD SAW BLADES This 48-page
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cabinetmakers hard'vvarn. Lowest prices. Circle No. 713.
FREUD ROUTER BITS AJI Freud router bits are represented ill this 84-page catalog, including more than 130 new bits and sets. Circle No. 232.
SAWSTOP SawStop table saws stop the btade upon contact wah skO, Circle No. 280. SOMMERFELD'S TOOLS FOR WOOD RoutElf" Bits. Blades, Tools and Tips. FREE cataklg & shipping! Circle No. 284.
....... VIdeos AMERICAN FURNITURE DESIGN CO. 150 of America's best furniturs plans, oomprehensive instruction guide. Catalog, Clrel. No. 336. U-BILD WOODWORKING PLANS Since 1948! Hur.df9ds of full-size plans, downloadable plans, low prices. Circle No. 435.
THE BEALL TOOL COMPANY Invemive sdutions tor shop problems: wood threading, ooffng 8. 1TIC)ffi. Circle No. 558. GRIZZLY INDUSTRIAL, INC. 12,000 woodworking and metalworking machines. tools and accessories - unbeatable pricesl
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6\I6l'Yfhing Pocket-Screw related. Clrcl. No. 802. LOWELL THOMAS TOOLS/ALPHA
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LOQOSOL, INC. Portable sawmjlls, pracisioo Woodworking machinery. Circle No. 845. STEVE H. WALL LUMBSR CO. Quality hardwoOOs, plywood, exotic lumber. Ship UPS/motor freight. whOlesale prices. Circle No. 856.
WOODWORKERS SOURCE HarcMoods from around the world. Circle No. 859.
PROFURHITUREBUILDER.COM ProFumitureBuHder.com from Meadowbrook Creations. Start your own made·to·Of'der furniture business. Circle No. 919.
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KLOCKIT The ~ing supplier of ckx:kmaking supplies for over 35 years! Circle No. 973.
AZTEC STEEL CORP. Quality pmengineered arch-style steel buildings at the
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COOK'S SAW MFa., L.L.C. Portable sawmills. Edgers. Sharpeners. Band Blades ... Froo catalog. Video available. Circle No. 1480. EPILOG Wood engraving and cutting systems - Low Price, High-Quality Laser Systems. Circle No. 1518. FREUD POWER TOOLS 16-page catalog mustrates depeodab~ power tools with traditional Freud quality, Circle No. 1532.
QRANBERG INTERNATIONAL Alaskan Saw Mill. Chain saw accessories. o\o1ade in
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MAXNC, INC. Manufacturers of American-made eNC m~ls, lathes and routers ... at affordable p!'1ces! Circle No. 1612.
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TOOLMART INC. Makita, DeWalt, PorterCabie, Milwaukee, Bosch, f'reud. Circle
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Tum your tablesaw into the hyper-accurate workshop workhorse it should be. You'll find 120+ pages of jig plans, precisionenhancing add-ons, and time· and money-saving tips.
WOODSTOCK INTERNATIONAL, INC. SHOP FOX Woodworking Machines offering professional-level quality. Dealer supplied.
Circle No. 1824.
ADAMS WOOD PRODUCTS Offers free catalog of their stock solid wood components. Circle No. 1831.
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PlNN STATIINDUSTRIES Award'.-vinning dust colloclion. CoUectors, Cyclones, [)JCtwork and fTlOIl3 . Circle No. 204S. PHASE~A·MATIC, INC. Convert 1-phasa electric power into 3-pnase; run 3-phase equipment anywhere. Circle No. 2052.
RED HILL CORP. SUPERGRJ'" ABRASIVES Industrial quality sanding beltS, discs, rol ls, Sheets at whOlesale prices to small consumers. Circle No. 2065.
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PACKARD WOODWORKS Free Catalog fOf WOODTURNERS! - Quality Lathes, Tools and Supplies. Circle No. 2143. Pl!NN STATE INDUSTRIES Leading supplier of Turning Ruducts. Pen kits, project, I1nishes and nl()(l3. Circle No. 21!5 1_
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Put yuur shop to work beautifying the rest of your home. Learn the secrets to milking your own (ustom moldings; then di5co~r a pro's advice for moontinq them.
pdAels u!>ing tools you already own.
Tablesaw tenoning jigs
25 top innovations of the past 2S years
Faster alld cleaner-rutting thcln a dado St't, these messofili'S IThlke light-fining tfllOIlS
Prior 10 1984, there were no befw:htop pYne~ Of onehanded baT clamps. We salute I~ and 2J more tools
in a snap. learn which onl'S work best.
and products that have g~atly improm woodworl:ing.
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TheTitebond® factsIII outperforms are hard to ignore. polyurethane glues. •
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