160-s

(THE YEAR’S BEST CLIMBING IMAGES )

ROCKICE AND

ISSUE 160| JUNE 2007 BUILT BY CLIMBERS

PHOTO OUR BIGGEST EXPOSED, EVER ISSUE

N A C 5 9 . 7 $ S U 9 9 . 5 $

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160 RockIce J u n e // 2 0 0 7

and

climbing the photo issue exposed 54 here it is, the issue every everyone’s one’s been waiting for. the most killer work from the world’s finest photographers ... PHotoS by: tim Kemple, Greg Eppersn, bne Speed, brian Slan, Dawn Kish, Jim thrnurg, Jhn Evans, Nahan Smih, Hermann Erer, Jnn Cpp, Peer Neels, Cr Richards, Andrew burr, Damn Crs, Eric Draper, Reinhard Fichinger, Jnahan Grifh, Paul bride, Dan braack, Mnica Dalmass, Merrick Ales, brian Irwin









































































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breaking news

Gri’s new headpoin hero also happens o ash V13. Plus, Mark Jenkins repors from he brink of devasaion in Pakisan. Bigime comp coverage and war in Paagonia round ou his in-deph news ediion.



















































EDITOR’S NOTE

THIS COULD BE YOU film. Grants can benefit more than our I REMEMBER THE SMELL OF BURNING rope, cooking in my rappel device, dur- climbing community. I was a couple of years out of college ing the sickening, bottomless Luna Bong rappel, 500 feet above the cliff base, with when I attended the women’s exchange, a slope dropping steeply below to the dis- and we climbed on Corsica (putting up tant river bottom. Rope fuzz piled up in a new finish on an 11-pitch tower route), front of me. I thought of the story some- and in the then emergent area of Buoux. one had told of two brothers simul-rap- The grant was only for $400 (which I peling here in the Verdon Gorge, France. later opted to pay back), but without it Arriving at the belay belay,, one broth brother er auto- I wouldn’t have gone. Laura Snider, our current intern, a Masmatically clipped in, unweighting the rope—and that was it for the other. Was ters candidate in journalism as well as a the horrifying tale apocryphal? I reached climber of 12 years, has compiled a comthe hanging belay, but could barely touch prehensive resource chart for climbing grants. See it on rockandice.com. my heated Sticht plate to unclip. Years ago, Ned Gillette was a charis My friends Rhea and Fiona joined me, Fiona rapping last. From below I could see matic career adventurer, recipient of her knees knocking. When we told Fiona repeated grant and sponsorship support. she’d have to wait on the rope for me to leave, the petite Brit said, “You have got to be kidding—no HOW TO LIVE way!” and shouldered in. That trip was a women’s climbing exchange to France, THAT LIFE. supported by the Vera Watson/ Alison Chadwick-Onyskiewicz “AND SAY THANK YOU.” fund (let’s go with VWACO), administered by the American Alpine Club. In 1978, Watson and Gillette, who in 1997 would be tragically

SOMEONE ONCE ASKED NED GILLETTE NED SPOKE A FEW WOR W ORDS DS AN AND D THE THEN N ADDE ADDED D,





















































LETTERS

I want to thank the entire Rock and Ice staff and especially Paul Piana for the wonderful article celebrating Todd Skinner [“The Renegade,”

No. 157]. I would also like to let you job of portraying that (best) side know that your article has been a of Todd. He, like his father and great comfort to the Skinner family many others in the Skinner family, and to those who miss Todd. was a mountain poet and artist. The Skinner Brothers Wilderness He, like his family and those of us School was recently sold, ending who worked at the Skinner Camp, a long history of outfitting that believed in the value of wilderness goes back to the 1930s and Todd’s and exploration. But most imporgrandfather, Clem Skinner. Todd’s tant, Todd was a mountain dreamer mother, Doris, died in September and inspired many of us to follow after a very long and difficult ill- our own dreams, to find our own ness; Todd died in October and paths and not follow others. Todd Todd’s father, Bob Skinner, passed epitomized the ethic of the Skinaway in December after a pain- ners: to be practical, creative, carful fight with cancer and kidney ing and comfortable in chaos. failure. Meanwhile, the old Skinner The last generation of climbers Ranch may well be subdivided into made a huge contribution toward 700 units, and the mountain way of making this world a better place, life that Todd grew up knowing is and it is up to our generation to coming to an end in the gas boom. begin to recognize that there can These have been hard times. be a special bond between men While Todd was very famous as a and mountains. It would be fitting climber, he had another side, known if Todd’s memory would allow all to his family, friends and many of of us to come together and recogus that went to the Skinner Camp. nize the true spirit of climbing—the Your article really did a beautiful bond of the rope.

DOUBLE MOTIVATED In 35 years of reading climbing mags, I’ve never felt motivated to write a letter to the editor. Paul Piana’s “The Renegade” changed

NO SYMPATHY FOR SOLOISTS OK, so let me get this straight: I’m supposed to work up a bunch of sympathy for a 43-year-old

BONDED EVAN GERMELES

PINEDALE, WYOMING

owners. Hearing that I’ve lost access to a classic crag due to someone’s foolish disregard for posted rules when I make every effort to climb with “no impact”





















































LETTERS while I’m living in Argentina, the other half of my life is still happening. Rock and Ice magazine has now become a staple item in my mum’s care packages (along with Ramen Noodles and peanut butter, of course). EMMA RAY

SAN SALVADOR DE JUJUY, ARGENTINA

some answer to the persistent pain t hat has kept me humbly grounded for the past three months. Julian Saunders’ article [“Dodgy Elbows,” No. 156] has provided invaluable insight into my injury. I’ve been diagnosed with lateral epicondylosis, and though I’ve been to an M.D., an excellent physical therapist and a shoddy one, I have been unable to afford any prolonged treatment. So, I am left with a diagnosis, varying information gleaned through research, and the hope that Dr. J might be able to offer me some guidance. If he can’t—no worries. I just hope he keeps writing engaging, humorous articles that cut through all the bull surrounding climbing injuries. I’ll be tossing out my counterforce brace thanks to Saunders; it made me look like a wan ker anyway.

ONE CARD, ALL GYMS I have this idea that I think would help the climbing community, from individuals to full gym groups. I currently have a membership to Rock’n &Jam’n, a good-sized gym here in Colorado. There’s been times when I’ve wanted to go to another gym, especially in the winter, to try new, different routes. Having already paid my dues to climb, I find it seems like too much money to pay another gym $15, not including drive time and gas. NATE BATTAGLIA BLOOMINGTON, ILLINOIS My idea was to create some kin d of national membership that allows people to go to different gyms and get some THANKS, BROTHER sort of a significant discount. The two When ever t he televi sion medi a g ets main advantages would be that people their hands on a climbing accident would not feel so committed when get- story, they turn it into some sensationting a membership to a gym, and most alized circus event. Last December’s important, it would encourage people Mount Hood incid ent imme diate ly to climb different routes, in different comes to mind. A consistent theme places, and different styles. is always the cost of the rescue and I’ve talked to a couple of owners of the number of rescuers needed. What

























































LETTERS a fellow climber. While Mark and Gerry managed to get me back on the deck, others went to call 911, fetch the litter from the rescue cache or wait at the base of the route to pony up their belay parka to keep me warm. Once I was in the litter, they all carried me down the steep approach trail and out to the ambulance waiting in the parking area. Before that day, I had never met any of the climbers who rescued me. Pain and morphine has since erased their first names as they introduced themselves, wishing me good luck as I was loaded into the ambulance. To Mark Syn nott, my part ner Gerr y and all of the other guys who helped that

York, of course. In the Gear Guide, No. 158, in the B.I.G. award for the Lowa Ice Comp, we mistyped L owa as “Lova.” Our apologies. GOT SOMETHING TO SAY?

The editors of Rock and Ice appreciate your opinions and hope to hear from you. Letters may be edited for length and clarity, and may be posted on rockandice.com without notice. To submit a letter to the editor, please email us at: [email protected]

























































24 |AFTERMATH ]

[ 28 |BISHOP]

[ 30 |FIGHT CLUB]

CAI REBUILDS

PLAY PLA Y HIGHBALL H IGHBALL

GRAVITY BRAWL

MARK JENKINS ON CLIMBERS’ EFFORTS TO REBUILD PAKISTAN

KEVIN JORGENSON PUTS IT ALL ON THE LINE FOR A BEAUTIFUL V13

BIGGEST COMP SERIES OF THE YEAR KICKS OFF WITH TWO HUGE UPSETS

BREAKING NEWS DESCRIBE THE DAY YOU LED IT.



























































NEWS

























































REVIEWS

























































NEWS DAMN BEAUTIFUL JORGESON WALKS AWAY WITH STUNNING FA IN BISHOP

Today you can type the words “Ruth Gorge” into your computer and in an instant receive 31 pages of results, from notes on measurement by the































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































ExposEd

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Far From the madding crowd

Khatthalya “Kat” Uppakham, c-fudr ad dirctr f Chiag Mai Rck Climbig Advturs, rackd up fr a day f craggig i paradis, Chiag Mai, Thailad. photo dawn kish 2

walking tall

Chris Lidr flig small  Huge (V9), Littl Cttwd Cay, Utah. photo tim kemple 3

to the tooth!

Da Lrds i a wak mmt  Indulgence (M9+), Prri Cul, Idah. photo nathan smith 4

Feets don’t Fail me now

Aymus paws walkig th li, Ysmit Vally. photo hermann erber























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ExposEd 5

fire in the belly (and eyes) Jsti Woo mrgs from The Abyss (5.12/), divisio Wll, amri Fork, uth. photo NathaN smith

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humpity humpity B Bowrs jgs  li o Torr eggr, Ptgoi. Ltr tht y h took  100-foot fll from th towr’s ifmos smmit i mshroom. photo joNNy copp

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not just another pretty face niky dyl ssss th for-pith Starchek (5.9), (5.9), chkms cyo, British colmbi. photo jim thorNburg

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tunnel vision drw High t  Brlo gym, Spi. Th tl is los to ll trf xpt for biyls  sootrs. photo dawN kish

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not forgotten Hri Brgr gts stp  p i  glil v, Tirol. photo hermaNN erber

10

men are from mars aoymos pllig i th oymos srt of uth. photo duaNe raleigh

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leanie meanie

ky omt gets  slie f heve  El Camino Real (5.10), Thquitz, clifi. ne the ed f this 70-ft pith, d shtly fte this pht ws te, omt fell, ipped he tp piee, d pluged 55 feet, buisig bth les. photo grEg EppErson 22

oh canada

a e eil view f Squmish chief, Vuve. photo john Evans 23

cool running

Lis Bds vids the dip, Little rive cy, albm. photo Brian solano

ExposEd

























me timbers!

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Pt mlv, Shivers (V7), Lttl cttw cy, uth. photo tim kemple

GettinG the head riGht

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uw y  Mindbender (V7) (V7)  th al mgts bl, Sqsh, B.c. photo boone speed

between heaven and italy

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o th Lys rg  th mt rs rg,  Ztt, Swtzl. photo jonathan griffith

treadinG the draGon

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jh Fx  mtt ml, T Gl, Wgt Wgt  rg, B.c. photo paul bride

whoa !

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S e  dly, Ty,  th ftsy Lancelot (5.11),  dly’s Tpl St. photo boone speed hookinG for dollars

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Stph Hss ptg  th T  l Gztt, chpgy, Vs, F. photo monica dalmasso

seeinG red

mtt Fg tws Quinsana Plus (5.13), elss Wll, nw rv Gg, Wst Vg. photo dan br ay ayack ack

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ExposEd



























Slip Slidin’ thiS way

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avlh ff mt Ht, s s f khlt bsp, dl ntl P, als. photo Brian irwin

auStin power

32

aBS chp alx P gttg h s  Zen (V5), rg’s P, Txs. photo merrick ales

blood meridian

33

S s th spltt y. Sst v th Sx Shts, uth. photo john evans

putting the woodS to it

dl Ws shg  V9/10 t th t mt / emS Gvty Bwl, nw Jsy r Gy. F ths pht, kpl, wh st th pbl, p-g  lght   jst t pt ths x v. H wt ll vg, bt t l s f h wl wl wy ptyh—    v ls t th s. Th Ws, th lst ptt, stpp p,  t,  kpl gt th sht. photo tim kemple

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ExposEd



























Revisiting Am erica’ erica’ss premier moderates destination, Idaho’ss oft-neglected Ci ty of Rocks. Idaho’













































































































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QUEST F F OR OR F IRE IRE (5.10c) Flaming Rock (Jeff Rhoades, Dave Bingham, Bill Boyle; 1989) Two perspectives, the first pulled back, the second close up, show Mike Beck on t his patina face. Quest For Fire epitomizes epitomizes the circa-1988 “power-drill era” of development. Because the patina edges of Flaming Rock were so unpredictable, new routing required top-down inspection and, consequently, speedier equipping.

T RIBAL RIBAL BOUNDARIES (5.10 a ) Flaming Rock. (FA Unknown)

























































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SENDS IN THE CITY





























FIELD TESTED

























































GEAR

FINDER









































































































































































































































































































































160-s

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