1 72 Hasegawa Macross YF-21 Modeling Guide by WM Cheng

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And still more masking... I was thinking that I will do a shade lighter and a shade darker - then with three shades, I will vary the finish from semi-gloss to flat, giving me a total of 6 shades in the end I hope.

Hmm, I think I'll do a colour in between the two blues tomorrow instead of a darker one. When I weather it slightly, the different shades will tie together better.

More masking to come...

Well, the 3rd shade of blue is on there, damned if I can tell, it is tough getting something in between. What I'll do later is weather around it a bit to pick out the colour separation, and alternate the flat / semi-gloss finish at these areas - it should work out (keeping my fingers crossed).

This top view shows off some more of the different panels. I'll give it a few hours to dry and I'll do a clear-coat to protect it before I do a little weathering post-shading. The plan is to do a black shading on the crevices, and a light grey/blue to pick out the highlights and convex surfaces.

Here's a little more life - I know the weathering is a bit heavy, but after the overall gloss coat, it will tone down substantially.

Underside is ready for the oil wash...

Here, after the gloss coat, almost all the lighter weathering has disappeared. I'll bring them back after I decal this sucker, and selectively airbrush a flat clear coat over where I want a lighter shade to show though. I need to mask off the underside white wheel wells and the little bleed intake vents above as well as the rear little thrusters above the engines.

That’ not the final gloss finish - I'm not a fan of glossy models either (unless it’s a car or bike) it’s just a gloss coat for the decals. I will tone it down to a semi-gloss after the decals with some flat panels. Here's the masking for the bleed intakes and rear thrusters. I decided to mask the little triangular plates behind the intakes as well - I have seen references that have them b lue as well as metallic grey.

Here's the cheap masking tape around the good stuff to provide more of a barrier in case I over spray too much metallizer. I am spraying AlcladII steel for these areas. You can see that I usually build up lots of little masking pieces for more complicated shapes.

Here's the rear thrusters finished. There will still be a wash and a light black burnt dusting to simulate some wear.

This shot shows the intake bleed doors painted

The white wheel wells are now to be masked and painted. I thought this would be the easiest way - I wasn't sure. One could always paint the these areas white first, then mask it off to paint the rest of the plane blue, but I thought that masking around the holes would be easier.

Again, I use the cheap tape to prevent overspray. I still stick the tape to my jeans first to take away some of the tackiness first. I made the area extra large since I would be trying to spray at odd angles trying to get into the crevices of the wheel well.

Since its gloss white over a dark base colour, I decide on a really thick mixture. I used 4:1 paint to thinner ratio and bumped up the pressure to 20PSI. The glossiness of the paint works against you when you want to cover up dark undercoats. So I sprayed it on pretty thick - a few passes holding the airbrush far enough away that the paint is almost dry on contact. It looks pretty good, there were some bit of overspray because I was attempting such a heavy coat - I would suggest multiple light coats next time. The little bit of overspray around some of the edges were cleaned up with some windex on a brush - since the previous gloss coat of ModelMaster Acrl protected the blue beneath.

One of my favourite parts is the oil wash. I used straight black this time, since it would be pretty hard to see it against the dark blue otherwise.

Here's a shot with the gears test fitted into place and the excess oil wash for the underside wiped away.

Here's a close up shot of the forward gear with the oil wash - I haven't painted the chrome silver of the actuators or shock strut yet.

A top view with the excess oil wash wiped off.

Ready for decals - well actually, I think I should attach that delicate yellow antenna/fin to the top at this point and mask and paint yellow. I am afraid to mask and paint after the decals for fear of the tape pulling off the decal beneath - but I am also afraid to handle the model too much with that delicate yellow fin in place begging to be knocked off

[How do you manage to secure the whole model while spraying, I’m sure you aren’t holding it with your fingers, but any clamps or device used? used? Recon] Great question recon, I never really thought about it till now. Well, I do hold it in my hands for half of it. I usually hold it in my hands for the top half, because I can hold it at different angles to get the optimum spray angle to achieve a smooth coat and the top is more important than the bottom, since it’s the side you always see. You always have more control with your hands. Now, when it’s time to spray the underside, I usually jam a toothbrush handle up the intake or the tail pipe (which is still open since I haven't glued the engine afterburner cans in yet) and hold it by the toothbrush. With the YF-21, I jammed two up there and held it like chopsticks while I airbrushed the underside. I determined that the plane will rest on the forward canards (on the underside by the intakes) while the rear section is propped up by the toothbrushes, so I would airbrush the canards first, and it should dry by the time I finish with the rest of the plane - at least enough to me to set the model down to dry. I'm back to decaling today, didn't get to do much over the weekend - just painted the little yellow fin (then realized that there was already a decal made for it - arghh). Be careful with the MicroSET - even too much of this affects these thin decals - and the air intake yellow patterns are a bit tricky - but I'll post pictures later today.

Brewtal: I don't ever really need to mask the pilots, I just spray them a base colour - white for Valkyrie pilots and orange in this case, then I hand paint with a fine brush the raised details such as his harness, helmet, gloves etc. I then do a oil wash of dark grey to pick out the crevices and creases in his flight-suit. The wash has a way of "neaten" up your hand painted details, since it fills in the areas with a dark grey outline. I might neaten up further with a Gundam Marker to define the harnesses or details on the pilot. You're right; masking this tiny thing would be crazy

Myersjessee: A tip for spraying masked areas, do a dryer spray, so the paint is almost dry on contact (not so diluted with thinner helps too) and build up in very light coats, especially around the masking edge. Lastly, always spray "away" from the edge of the masking tape, never into the edge of the tape - this will prevent seepage. And with all this advice, I still occasionally get overspray too IIymij: Yes, the lines on this kit are indeed very fine, as with most Hasegawa kits. However, when you spray primer, I would actually suggest primer over grey paint, since true primer is very thin stuff. I used the pre-mixed for airbrush primer by Alclad - this stuff goes on smooth and thin and I concentrate on the problem areas. For the VF-1, I don't really prime since its white on white plastic. But this YF-21 is blue plastic, and I need a primer to see the effects of all the seam filled areas. I just tried to keep the coats thin and even - build up in layers.

Well, here is a shot of just the larger yellow pieces I started out with. Yes, the yellow intake stripes are a pain in the @$$ and it’s a bit of a toss up to which way to go. I thought that if I totally screw up, then I would fall back and mask and paint the yellow markings on. So I tried it first. The problem is around the little extra side bulge area, there are some surfaces that bend in more than one direction, and you know what happens when you try to bend a piece of paper in two directions - you get bulges, that’s what happens here. Also, the pieces are slightly long at both ends, so after you get them down, take a really sharp exacto to lightly trim along the edge at the ends. What I found helpful was that I would slice the pattern into two pieces once it was on the plane in roughly the right position, I separated it at the intake to the little side bulges. This allows the two pieces to be slightly repositioned with the two pieces to slightly over lap if necessary. The problem with painting it, aside from a masking nightmare (lots of little inside corners) is matching the yellow on such a dark blue base. I think that once you mask it, you need to prime it back to a neutral grey before mixing the proper yellow - plus the yellow of the decal changes as its being applied to the blue model - there also is a lot of red in this particular yellow. So masking and painting is difficult too, especially when you see the painted yellow so close to the decal yellow. Of course you could decide to mask all the yellow portions so the yellows all match. Good luck!! Actually I would like to see someone attempt that!

Here's a close up shot - sorry I moved the camera at the last second so it’s a bit blurry, but you get the idea. USE LOTS OF WATER - get it exactly where you want it before using MicoSET, it really weakens these decals and there's a lot of fiddling to do. Oh, one suggestion though, I didn't even bother with the grey decals for the forward section of the intakes. I actually didn't even know that the decals were provided, but since the part separated right on the colour change - it would be better to just paint this part. Now, in hindsight, it’s a really good idea since you have to paint the interior anyways, and to wrap the decal around the leading edge would be a nightmare.

Here's a shot further along, you see the weathering which seems a bit excessive for a demonstrator is much toned down next to these bright decals now.

Those little black and light grey graphics on the front of the leg/engine bulges are also difficult to apply. I used a lot of MicroSET and SOL here, since again, the decal has to curve in two directions, luckily the MicroSET made the decal stretch slightly. Be careful here too if you are using the decals they also don't conform to the scribed lines exactly, they are a bit larger again. I don't know, but someone different must of been in charge of this kit - too many things just don't fit exactly as we have come to expect from Hasegawa - mind you, it’s still leaps and bounds ahead of the old ARII or IMAI kits.

I decide to dab those little dots with red for a bit of interest and decided that instead of the decals for the dark double hexes and the twin vents, the dark oil wash actually gave them more depth than the decals. I also did a little wash to recover the panel lines where the yellow stripe had covered over them - I think these little details are really important in the end for realism.

A shot of a bunch of parts left over before they go on the plane.

Here's a before shot of the tail cones and intakes. I plan on giving these areas a shot of black to age and burn them. The intakes gets a shot of black inside to further make it look deeper than they are - I painted them black and sprayed grey over them before, but I sprayed too much grey, and you can see the inside of them in grey. So I tightly controlled a spray inside in flat black and gradually lightened it out to the grey of the exterior of the intakes. This gives the illusion that they fall off to blackness before you see the engine fans.

A close up of the charring and oil wash left over of the afterburning section - this detail, I really only do it for me, it’s pretty hard to see once the fins are in place unless you are looking right into the tail cones with a strong light.

Here are the backs of the vectoring fins.

Inside the vectoring fins.

Here's a shot of where I am now. There's a slight post-shading done in black over the yellow decals where the panel lines are, and the intake bulge area to give it a little shading and tie it into the overall plane a bit more. There is also a bit on the grey portions right where the legs join onto the back. Overall, it’s still quite a bright scheme and a bit too contrasting for my taste, but it’s a demonstrator right I think the overall thing will tone down a bit when I clear clear coat it in a semi-gloss and start start to accent certain areas in a flat clear coat. Flat finishes always tend to lighten things. I will wait till all the clear coats are done before I attempt to remove the canopy masking and apply the forward sensor lens and navigation lights.

Well, I wouldn't use that much of Microsol either - it wrinkles too much. I would use MicroSET first (sometimes it’s enough - and sometimes I don't need it at all - I don't use any of these solutions at all some of the time) only when I think there will be trouble. The Hasegawa decals are about as good as you can get from a kit manufacturer - so the problems are minimal. That being said, I do brush some on to the area to be applied, sometimes diluted with water, then slide the decal on, and brush some more on especially around the edges. I then blot and press down with a damp paper towel or cloth to get the decal to lay down flat against the surface details and telegraph as much detail underneath through. Because I blotted the decal, it’s kind of dry now, so I would "paint" some microSET on the edges again and let dry. If there is still a problem with the details telegraphing through from underneath or conforming to some weird shapes, then I would selectively brush MicroSOL on just those affected areas, not the whole decal (it would wrinkle too much). Of course the MicroSOL works best while still damp. Okay, I didn't do much today - was out for most of the day. I did do a test fit of the tail afterburner cones - this shot shows the weathering done to them.

This lower view shows the opening under the fuselage where the legs would be tucked in and the corrugated sheet styrene I placed into that area to prevent us from seeing into the body of the aircraft.

Here's a shot from above with the semi-gloss clear coat applied. I like the sheen now, it ties together the decals with the paint finish better and it’s still not totally flat. I will weather it with the flat clear coat tomorrow hitting all the leading edges and masking some panel lines to "wear" it further slightly it should introduce any colours, just a shift in the clear coat sheen. By making certain areas flatter - it will lighten those area slightly.

Here's a dry fit of the landing gears - no real purpose - just curious and impatient

Ahh, a very cool detail I noticed while looking at my reference material in the TIA books. I noticed that all the clear forward sensor lenses had a slot molded into them. When I checked the reference materials, there seemed to be a red sensor at the end of these lenses. If you put some red paint at the end of a pin, and brushed the pin into this slot - it convincingly simulates the head of a sensor unit underneath the sculpted glass lens when viewed from the exterior (hmm, did that make sense?)

Here you see it from the other side - the side you are supposed to see when they are mounted on the plane. The clear lens appears darker, since I have brushed on a layer of Tamiya smoke to tint the lenses - I will brush another layer on tomorrow when this coat dries. I like the lenses darker tint since it will match my YF-19 nose lenses more that way - they sometimes appear black in the animation. I also painted the interior of the holes on the fuselage in flat black in preparation for these lenses.

Here's a shot with the tail cones fitted into place.

You see, most of that detail inside the afterburner goes to black after the thrust vectoring fins are in place, you can only see it if you shine a light straight up into it - but I know it’s there.

I decided that I would space the vectoring fins out a little so it looks as though there is room to move. I filed away some of the paint from those little tabs so that it would have a better plastic to plastic bond. I think it looks better a bit out from the tail cone, than glued hard up against it - however, unfortunately, there is very little surface to left to glue against to create a tight bond - this may the most fragile part of the model. I would suggest maybe building these connection points up before you paint the area and maybe either pinning it like a resin model, or creating some kind of better joint between the pieces.

Well, backed by popular demand, here is probably the last shot you'll see with a clear canopy without the decal pattern.

Here's the last shot we'll see into the cockpit before all my detailing gets hidden The messy seam is the liquid mask residue left over after I took the masking off - I'll clean it up

This view you can actually see the forward display inside with the decal.

Well, one of my biggest fears has been alleviated - the canopy decal fits perfectly! Oh, well, too bad the blue and grey doesn't exactly match the rest of my pant job - its not too bad here, since there are quite a few shades of blue to work with. I guess the advantage to masking is that you would get the exact shade of blue and greys that you have painted with. I didn't mind too much. One tip is that I trimmed all my decals right up to the image - as close as you can without cutting into the graphics - it always helps to not see the carrier film - especially when it’s on a clear surface. Oh well... Bowman is pretty much hidden - however, you do see more in person holding the model than these photographs can show.

Again another fear solved - the wingtip lights. What I did was heed the other warnings that they did not fit properly and undercut (undersized) the openings. When I got to this stage, I then carefully filed back the opening constantly checking with the clear piece until I got a satisfactory fit. Yes, if you just blindly follow the scribed lines, the clear pieces probably would not fit as nicely. In fact the top and bottom scribed lines don't meet up exactly - tsk, tsk...Hasegawa. I glued the pieces in with white glue – it’s a canopy glue that dries clear. I will paint them with Tamiya clear red and blue later.

Again, those forward clear sensor lenses fit perfectly. In fact, you should not even try to pre-fit them (otherwise you won't be able to get them out again). The tinting worked out well, especially since I painted the interior well black first. I put in a dab of white glue, so that it will dry clear, then fitted each piece narrow end in first and pressed. You can see the red sensor painted inside.

The side ones I am especially happy about, since you can see the red at the right end – it’s very cool. The photographs don't do it justice.

Here's a shot into the intake with the black shading in place to look like a shadow – it’s too bad that these intakes are so short and capped flat - maybe it would be a good idea to chop it off at the end and stick a spare Valkyrie turbine blades in behind (we've all got some of those lying around after our super/strike valks eh?)

Better shot of the canopy with Bowman inside and his flight controls are clearly in view!

Close up of the forward landing gear.

Rear landing gear.

The guns I painted in Alclad Steel, with a flat black post-shading and oil wash to pick out the rear exhaust. Man, with this dark colour, every speck of dust shows up – it’s almost statically attracted to the model.

Here's an overall underside shot.

Finally the piece de resistance!! I'm finished!!! Here's a brief walk around for now, until I get some sun tomorrow to really properly take photos of this baby - I'm kind of proud of it myself - it turned out better than I hoped for. I always had troubles with this blue paint scheme (very toy like) but this rendering makes me smile.

I just used thinned flat black - in very light coats - almost a dusting. You might need a lot of the Tamiya clear smoke since it’s really light and doesn't show up on dark surfaces unless you coat it many times. The problem I might for see is that due to the many coats you might need to see the smoke, you might end up "filling in" some of the engraved panel lines to the point where they may not read in an oil wash. You might want to do the oil wash before this "post-shading". Additionally, I've found out that a lighter post-shading also works on planes that are darker in colours - especially at the leading edges of the panel lines.

Another view You can see the weathering with the flat clear coat here a bit better. I hit all the leading surfaces with the flat, I then masked off some of the panel lines with post it notes, and sprayed those with flat as well. I squared corners of the engines and the blue portion f the intakes got its edges sprayed with flat as well - its subtle, but I think it pops out the blue shading a bit more - kind of gives a bit of life to it.

The clear parts just get glued in with white glue, you don't need a strong bond for these little pieces and then the glue dries crystal clear. Yes, the canopy decal does look a bit off, let me sit on it a while, see if it will bother me, if it still does, I might just lightly mask the blue area, and do a light flat dusting with a bit of the body blue colour to tie it together. But first I need a few days with my new addition to see if it will warrant this extra effort. I use my good old (15 yr old) Badger 200 single action with a fine tip and needle. Its bottom siphon feed, so I use a combination of a colour cup for small areas, and a bottle for the larger stuff. I love this brush, it’s really simple and breaks apart easily to clean. I suppose I might treat myself someday and move up to a Iwata double action, but I am happy with this now - I treated myself to a decent compressor - a SilAir silent one - it makes a huge difference.

The sheen changes as you walk around the plane - very cool! You can see the red nav lights done in Tamiya clear over the silver base on the rudder/stabilizers (red up front, silver in back).

Aft ¾

Maybe I should of drilled out those rear thrusters now - they look a bit shallow - I might paint them black inside. I like how the rear gear shock strut glints

You can get a smooth of a coat with hand painting as I do with airbrushing - although I personally can't. I stink at hand painting, I used to be able to do it quite well - but now I almost rely exclusively on airbrushing. However I have seen amazing hand-brushed work. You can't really do the post or preshading though. Sorry Kam, I don't have the packaging to my Fine head and needle assembly anymore - I tried to look it up on the Badger web site, but they don't list parts or accessories. I just asked for the fine head and needle for the Badger 200. My head has a little engraved "F" on the head for "fine" my medium head says "IL". Side view

Back around again - I hope this isn't boring you...

Final shot for now - head on. Hopefully when I take some decent ones I'll post them to the Model section either tomorrow or the day after. Okay, my views on this model... at first it’s seems like it was going to be the easiest of all the models by Hasegawa thus far - so many big pieces - I had the whole thing put together in 4 hours! Now the details are a bit of a mixed bag - sure, some of the parts didn't line up as well as we would come to expect from a Hasegawa kit and thus there were some bit of filling and sanding though I wouldn't say anymore than any other Macross offering. The decals were a bit off - especially the yellow intake graphics, but they were put on nevertheless, the black and grey engine bit also were a bit tricky, mostly because of the compound curves - they too didn't fit exactly over the scribed details. I think someone different had a go at this kit from Hasegawa - a few connection points were too small (i.e.; the vectoring fins). But as you can see, overall it’s a good kit - probably a little more involved to make the blue scheme interesting, but I would put it in the middle to hard end of the pact. I would say the YF-19 as the easiest, followed by the VF-1, then super or strike, working your way up to this YF-21 and the VE-1 Elint. Thanks for tuning in... All criticisms welcome thanks.

Hey thanks all for all the encouragement! Yes indeed all criticisms are welcomed - I don't want just praises (although they are nice for my ego) a simple bow would suffice Please, I want to see all your models, it always helps to see other works and may give me ideas to do on others I haven't built yet. I guess the blue on the canopy really bugs a lot of people eh? Hmm, it doesn't seem to bug me too much yet, in fact the new set of finished pictures make it seem like a better match - let me know after you see the new pictures if it still bugs you guys. I might consider it then. (I don't mind criticisms as long as I don't necessarily have to abide by them) Yes, I saw those UNSpacy kites with the words around them. I don't see that symbol anywhere in my TIA references. Plus I think they are kind of crowded - I want it to match the YF-19. Its funny, but no matter how hard I try to photograph it, the photos never really do it justice, I guess it’s the 3D quality of the model - you lose so much compressing it in only 2 dimensions. I am never really happy with any photos I ever take of my models. I am continually learning with each model I make, I feel I am getting better with each one I complete - I think we all can be learning all the time. LTSO, yes that is exactly how I did the front sensor lenses - unfortunately none of the photos really convey how cool they turned out when you see them in real life. Trust me, do the red on the back - you'd be glad you did when you're done.

Happy modeling! (And wear a safety mask.)

Addendum: 1. What the hell is primer? A primer is a base coat that helps the final coat stick better to the model. It is usually gray or white and comes in various degrees of thickness. You can also use primer to find problem areas such as scuffs, divots, and ejector pin marks, etc. Be careful, too much primer can fill in panel lines. 2. What is the putty? Putty is just a filler for cracks, holes, etc. Squadron makes a popular putty line. Most around here have several different kinds of putty depending on the size of the problem area. Some use Tamiya putty or Miliput (a two part putty... have to mix them together so they harden) or Mr. Surfacer 500 or 1000 (actually these are primers, but can be used to fill small areas like putty). 3. Where can you buy all these paints your used? I use my local hobby store. You can also use ehobbies.com, Squadron.com, and a variety of others.... just search on Google. 4. What's an oil wash? This is an oil based paint that has been thinned down to about 8 parts thinner to 1 part oil paint. This is mixed well and dabbed gently into panel lines... the capillary action of the paint will make the paint flow through the panel lines, thus enhancing the panel lines. 5. How do you accent the lines on the plane? An oil wash does this most effectively. You can also use pastel chalks, fine pencils, and shading techniques (only for the best airbrushes!)

6. Any guides online about these newb questions? Keep reading the wm Cheng threads... he has a link to all his old threads in this forum. Also there are tips in FineScale modeler, a modeling magazine. You can check it out online at finescale.com. Personally, I like starshipmodeler.com... those guys over there have been very helpful. Hope this helps. ( answered by Less than Super…)

1 72 Hasegawa Macross YF-21 Modeling Guide by WM Cheng

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